our annual gift guide
roll with it
in the mix
FOODIE FINDS
EASY TURDUCKEN
WHISK REVIEWS
/ Inspired Food Culture / Saint Louis /
A Cook’s THAnksgiving
N OV EMB ER 2 0 1 0 / FR EE
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY Geoff Cardin
turkey-to-pie Thanksgiving
The only thing our feature doesn’t give you is a helping hand with the dishes. 6
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a 42 Thanksgiving
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from the staff
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Check out this month’s online content.
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from the PUBLISHER
A toast to good people and good food.
| 14 | FEAST FAVES This month’s inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis.
COLUMNS
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my stuff
The robust pair behind one of St. Louis’ most popular wine bars.
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gadget a-go-go
We put five whisks to the test.
| 32 | ON THE SHELF
New and notable in beer, wine and spirits.
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mystery shopper
Buy it and try it: persimmons.
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the cheat
Turducken’s just begging to be simplified and improved upon.
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deconstructed dishes
Explore the ingredients of choucroute.
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THE FOODIE GIFT GUIDE
From th e Cellar The Fre s of nch Lau ndry
| 74 | pull up a chair
Elegant, mid-century lines make the Florence Knoll bench a no-brainer.
COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY
Carmen Troesser Inspired Food Culture
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/ Inspired Food Culture / Saint Louis /
Volume 1 / Issue 4 / November 2010
Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville Managing Editor Brandi Wills Online Editor Kristin Brashares Art Director Lisa Triefenbach Advertising Sales Director Donna Bischoff Copy Editor Barbara E. Stefàno Contributing Writers Erin Callier, Pat Eby, Chad Michael George, Erik Jacobs Jennifer Johnson, Angela Ortmann, Matt Sorrell, Barbara E. Stefàno, Michael Sweeney, Cassandra Vires Contributing Photographers Geoff Cardin, Ashley Gieseking, Rob Grimm, Tuan Lee Matt McFarland, Laura Miller, Greg Rannells Jennifer Silverberg, Carmen Trosser
Contact Us Feast Media 14522 S. Outer Forty Road Town and Country, MO 63017 feastSTL.com Advertising Inquiries Donna Bischoff, 314.340.8529 ads@feastSTL.com Courtney Barczewski, 314.340.8525 Rich Shelton, 314.340.8514 Editorial Comments editor@feastSTL.com
Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. A publication of Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC A Lee Enterprises Company 8
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ONLINE CONTENT
STL .CO M ONLINE EXCLUSives
> THIS MONTH’S FEAST > WATCH & LISTEN > BLOG > feast events > RECIPES
shop girl DESIGN BITES Quite the Pair Dinner & A Show Travelogue Amalgamated Distilling Co.’s artisan distiller Jake Jones takes you step-by-step through the process behind his recently released Calhoun County peach brandy.
FEAST ONLINE EXCLUSIVE:
COOKING VIDEO: Let Local Harvest Cafe’s Clara Moore show you how to cook her sweet-and-savory stuffings! Scan the Microsoft Tag on page 48 to watch it from your smart phone. (Download the free app at http://gettag.mobi.) Plus, watch this video and more cooking demos in our Watch & Listen section at feastSTL.com.
Interact with FEAST Connect with us at facebook.com/ feastSTL for daily recipes, cooking demo videos, culinary news and behind-the-scenes photos.
New column! Design disciple Erin Callier scours the world of kitchen and dining room décor for must-have gadgets and appliances, deals and steals, hot trends and makeover tips.
DESIGN BITES:
©iStockphoto.com/mamahoohooba
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Follow us at twitter.com/feastmag for up-to-the-minute restaurant news, special deals, FEAST events and more.
On the Go
Access FEAST anywhere you go with our mobile site, m.feaststl. com. Our recipes link makes it convenient to shop for ingredients from your smart phone.
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FROM THE PUBLISHER
I
t’s pretty fantastic that we have an entire holiday dedicated to cooking, eating and giving thanks. As you gather around the turkey (or Tofurkey) this year, I hope that there are many, many things you’re thankful for. It’s hard to not be hyper-aware of the collective challenges we face, so it’s nice to have a day on which we acknowledge and appreciate our blessings.
Brandi Wills, managing editor: Our vibrant community of artists – visual, performing, literary and, of course, culinary – who so openly share their talents with us and make St. Louis a beautiful, exciting and energetic place to live. Lisa Triefenbach, art director: To have learned over my “ahem” years that we are not always handed the perfect situation in life but we are always given exactly what we need when we need it. It may not come in the form or package we envisioned, but usually... it’s even better. Kristin Brashares, online editor: My mother, who’s ready to retire from Thanksgiving dinner and is passing down 30 years of expertise so I can take over the turkey and all the fixings (even if the apprenticeship calls for getting up at the crack of dawn). Barb Stefàno, copy editor: My large family: six sassy sisters, three clever bros and parents who lead by example. Our closeness has helped me appreciate the loving relationship I have with my husband as well. And so, this month we give you an issue dedicated to ensuring that your Thanksgiving is as delicious as it is heartwarming. Look for Turkey Day wine pairings from a St. Louisan who is living many a culinarian’s dream as sommelier at The French Laundry and a massive turkey-to-pie feature spanning 10 pages that’s full of fun food ideas. Because that’s what food is meant to be: fun. And for that, I’m truly thankful. Until next time,
Catherine Neville
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FEAST EVENTS
Cooking Demo Wed., Nov. 10, 6:30pm, L’Ecole Culinaire $40/person, 314.587.2433
Holiday desserts in all their rich, wonderful forms will be covered at this live demonstration class. Learn to make (and get to eat!) sweet custards, perfect pies, gingerbread and poached pears.
Gobble, gobble! Thu., Nov. 11, 6pm, Macy’s West County Complimentary, Housewares Dept., Third Floor
Just in time to plan your Turkey Day extravaganza, learn the tips and tricks you’ll need to know to pull it all off tastefully. From must-have gadgets to terrific techniques, this is Thanksgiving 101.
Hands-On Class Wed., Nov. 17, 6pm, Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $40/person, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704
Join your fellow cooks as we make an Alsatian feast of rich choucroute, an apple Dutch Baby and vanilla ice cream.
Wine Tasting Thu., Nov. 18, 6pm, Mike Shannon’s Steaks and Seafood Complimentary, rsvp@stlwinegirl.com
Join columnist Angela Ortmann for a free wine tasting at Mike Shannon’s. Enjoy some tasty nibbles as you learn about wine from one of St. Louis’ wine-industry leaders.
An Appetizing Holiday with Lynne Rossetto Kasper Thu., Dec. 2, 7pm, L’Ecole Culinaire $75/person, stlpublicradio.org
Join St. Louis Public Radio and FEAST in welcoming The Splendid Table’s Lynne Rossetto Kasper as she shares her insights and stories during a cooking demonstration and discussion, followed by a reception, at L’Ecole Culinaire. Kasper is well known and loved for her deep culinary knowledge and passion for cooking. Please join us for an evening of delicious food and engaging conversation. Proceeds benefit St. Louis Public Radio. feedback?
catherine@feaststl.com
PHOTOGRAPHy by Tuan Lee
I, for one, am thankful for the fantastic people that make up the core of the Feast staff. As this issue came together, I couldn’t help feeling lucky to be able to work with them. They are absolute professionals and nice people to boot. Here’s what they’re thankful for:
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FEAST FAVES / where we’re dining
Cielo
Cielo’s new executive chef, Fabrizio Schenardi, has a knack for infusing rustic Italian classics with playful, modern flavors. Whet your appetite with fried, hot olives stuffed with beef, veal and pork. The must-try pasta is coffee-flavored pappardelle tossed with osso buco and dusted with orange gremolada. Seafood lovers should choose the pan-fried sea scallops with tomato-studded white beans or the coriander-crusted tuna served with an earthy, slightly sweet caponata. Chef Schenardi’s massive bone-in pork chops are brined to ensure a well-seasoned succulence. And our favorite sweet indulgence on this enticing new menu? The semifreddo, served with smile-inducing darkchocolate “salami.” All these dishes should be paired with a great Italian wine, and Cielo’s new manager, Marco Pacelli, is happy to offer suggestions. Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis 999 N. Second St., Laclede’s Landing fourseasons.com/stlouis/dining/
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Laclede’s Landing
PHOTOGRAPHy by Geoff Cardin
Cielo
314.881.5800
FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient
The Good Pie: Pizzeria Napoletana 314.289.9391
PHOTOGRAPHy by Geoff Cardin
midtown
ITALIAN 00 FLOUR Neapolitan-style pizzas have captured the palates of discerning pie aficionados. This type of pizza relies on very few ingredients, so everything has to be of the highest quality: Buffalo mozzarella, a sauce made from San Marzano tomatoes and a scattering of fresh basil is the classic combination, all resting atop a thin, relatively floppy crust. The crust on pizzas that emerge from The Good Pie’s
imported, wood-burning oven is delicate with a pleasant chew. The secret? Italian 00 flour. This flour is very finely milled and incredibly soft, usually with a much lower protein level than typical American flour. The pizzas at Good Pie wouldn’t be nearly as great without it. 3137 Olive St., Midtown thegoodpie.com
FEAST FAVES / At home
PIZZA STONES |2|
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| 1 | All-Clad 3-piece pizza stone set, $119.95; Dillard’s, multiple locations, dillards.com | 2 | Emile Henry Flame pizza stone, $49.95; Sur La Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.com | 3 | Oneida pizza stone, $19.99; Bed Bath & Beyond, multiple locations, bedbathandbeyond.com Inspired Food Culture
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FEAST FAVES / where we’re dining
Atlas Restaurant 314.367.6800
PHOTOGRAPHy by Geoff Cardin
DeMun
Atlas Restaurant
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When Bryan and Diane Carr assumed ownership of Atlas, the restaurant’s devoted regulars waited anxiously to see what would become of this neighborhood bistro. The Carrs, of course, have run Pomme Restaurant and Pomme Café and Wine Bar in Clayton for years, so it is no surprise that the transition has been graceful.
exacting approach to French and Italian dishes. The house-made country terrine is plated with twists of pickled veggies and the tender trout is given a flourish of tangy preserved-lemon sauce. Savory lamb chops are heightened by rosemary and a traditional ratatouille. And for dessert, order Tibka’s chocolate cake with apricot preserves and caramel.
Bryan Carr’s elegant approach to cooking is a comfortable fit for Atlas’ established, simple,
5513 Pershing Ave., DeMun atlasrestaurantstl.com
FEAST FAVES / FOOD STUFF
BALSAMIC VINEGAR Gourmet balsamics add great flavor to salad dressings, but don’t stop there. Add a few drops to savory dishes for an unexpected bite.
GREAT ON: Mushroom ragout
GREAT ON: Lamb chops
GREAT ON: Grilled salmon
| 1 | Waldburg Cream fig-chili balsamic vinegar, $8.29 per 100 ml; Vom Fass, 7314 Manchester Road, Maplewood, vomfassslmo.com | 2 | Blackberry-ginger balsamic vinegar, $7.49 per 100 ml; Di Olivas, 118 West County Center, Des Peres, diolivas.com | 3 | Maletti balsamic vinegar, $39; Extra Virgin, an Olive Ovation, 143 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, extravirginoo.com Inspired Food Culture
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FEAST FAVES / whAT we’re drinking
SeA Spiced T.J. Vytlacil (who, until mid-October, held court at Franco and now plies his trade at Monarch Restaurant and Wine Bar and Herbie's Vintage '72) has become somewhat famous among the cocktail set for his well-balanced, inventive drinks, and Sea Spiced is one of his latest creations. The base spirit is rum, but not just any rum. Crusoe spiced rum is made with organic molasses and sugarcane and has a smooth, nuanced flavor on its own. Mixed in a cocktail, it elevates every other ingredient. Add to the presentation a sprig of fragrant rosemary that’s been doused in Chartreuse and set aflame, and you have a cocktail worthy of a holiday celebration.
Sea Spiced Serves | 1 | 1½ oz ½ oz ½ oz ½ oz ¼ oz 1 sprig
Crusoe spiced rum freshly squeezed lemon juice Cocchi Aperitivo Americano ruby Port simple syrup lemon bitters ice fresh rosemary green Chartreuse
| Preparation | Combine all ingredients except the
PHOTOGRAPHy by Geoff Cardin
rosemary and Chartreuse in a martini shaker. Shake to combine and strain into a wine glass. Dip rosemary into some Chartreuse and set it aflame for 10 seconds. Float rosemary atop the drink and serve.
Reamers
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| 1 | Melamine reamer, $3.95; Crate & Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.com | 2 | Rösle citrus reamer, $20.95; Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, kitchenconservatory.com | 3 | Wood lemon reamer, $8.50; Williams-Sonoma, multiple locations, williams-sonoma.com
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FEAST FAVES / DESIGN TRENDS WE LOVE
MURALS Love the hand-painted mural from the October issue’s Redesign Just in Time feature? So do we. This sophisticated take on wall décor adds an unobtrusive element of creativity to your kitchen or dining room while striking a perfect balance between a monotone paint job and the frustration of hanging wallpaper.
Niche Home Furnishings features work by St. Louis-based muralists The Design Deli throughout their Downtown showroom to help accentuate the beauty of their modern furnishings. The Design Deli is also the visionary team behind Foam Coffee and Beer’s well-loved mural in the coffeehouse’s lounge, as well as the “I Scream” room at Serendipity Homemade Ice Cream. More and more custom murals are popping up in the area. Case in point: The recent redesign of Kakao Chocolate incorporates a hand-painted mural by local artist Phil Jarvis. Seems good food and delightful wall designs are a natural pairing.
Murals by The Design Deli at Niche Home Furnishings, 300 N. Broadway, Downtown, nichestl.com. To view more work by The Design Deli, visit thedesigndeli.com or call Stephanie Nelson-Pondrom at 773.627.6946. PHOTOGRAPHY by Ashley Gieseking
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Chez Leon 314.361.1589
FRENCH ONION SOUP This time of year, diners tend to seek out classic, warming dishes and when we tried Chez Leon’s soupe à l’oignon gratinée (aka, French onion soup) we were hooked. Served steaming hot, each spoonful delivers complex texture and flavor. Sherry-laced beef broth holds longcooked, caramelized onions, which are given an even deeper flavor thanks to stringy Gruyère 22
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cheese. All that’s topped off, naturally, with a toasted crouton. Tuck into this Francophile dish with a glass of Bordeaux in Chez Leon’s dark, sophisticated dining room and understand why classic French fare is making a comeback. 7927 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton chezleon.com
PHOTOGRAPHy by Geoff Cardin
FEAST FAVES / The Dish
FEAST FAVES / shop-o-matic
Township Grocer 618.656.0141 Edwardsville
TOWNSHIP GROCER PHOTOGRAPHy by Ashley Gieseking
The brainchild of Fond chef and owner Amy Zupanci, Township Grocer is a throwback general store with a highly specific focus: healthy, natural and often local food items that are the same you’ll find in Zupanci’s kitchen. She started the small shop, housed next door to her restaurant, as an “everyday pantry by Fond,” selling high-quality items she believes everyone should keep in their own kitchens. However, in the few short months since opening, Township Grocer has expanded to also carry seasonal produce and local breads, cheeses and meats, including fresh, sustainable seafood flown in to order from the coasts. You’ll also find a notable lunch counter with a small menu of
sandwiches and soups featuring ingredients handmade by Zupanci. Menu items change daily for ultimate freshness, but one regular is the Italian beef sandwich, a must-try. Seasoned beef is braised in brine and served with the chef’s house-pickled Hungarian peppers for a sweet-tart accent. Pair it with a Coke de Mexico (made with real sugar and a top seller at the store) and house-marinated olives for an unforgettable meal. The best part? Purchasing all the ingredients from that dish on-site and preparing it yourself at home. 103 Main St., Edwardsville townshipgrocer.com
FEAST FAVES / what we’re dRinking
CRÉMANT DE LOIRE written by Jennifer Johnson
If you still wait to enjoy sparkling wine on special occasions, let November’s commencement of the holiday season prompt you to discover and share sparkling wines from the Loire Valley, France. Loire’s cool, northerly climate is a principal provenance for Crémant, a French sparkling wine produced with similar strict production standards as Champagne but found outside the Champagne region. Crémants de Loire are vinified using predominantly Chenin Blanc, a versatile, age-worthy grape with distinctive flavors reminiscent of crème fraîche and honey with a nutty and understated fruit profile, often blended with Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc.
Langlois-Chateau Crémant
Domaine des Aubuisieres
de Loire Brut, N.V.
Methode Traditionelle Brut, N.V.
Saumur, Loire Valley, France
Vouvray, Loire Valley, France
Established by renowned Champagne house Bollinger, Langlois-Chateau’s Crémant exhibits a clean, aromatic profile of lemon zest, honey and a subtle hazelnutty smokiness, followed by a bit more citrus on the palate and a creamy mouth feel. Pair with smoked salmon, charcuterie, egg dishes, roasted turkey and duck.
A refreshing alternative to sparkling Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, this lively yet delicate Crémant displays aromas of toasted brioche, honeydew and almonds with a crisp, pineappley, lingering mineral finish. Bubbly pairs diversely, so try with canapés, salty cheeses, ham, mushrooms and cream sauces.
$22.99; Friar Tuck, multiple locations, friartuckonline.com
$19; Balaban’s Wine Cellar and Tapas Bar, 1772 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield, balabanswine.com Inspired Food Culture
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FEAST FAVES / what we’re buying
Flexible Furniture As family and friends join us for holiday feasts, the once beautifully appointed dining room can start to look like a crowded cafĂŠ. Enter furniture that goes with the flow. From stacking and folding chairs to tables that adjust to different configurations and heights, these easy-going pieces will help you set a special place for all your guests.
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| 1 | Screw table by Tom Dixon, $1,260-$1,700; tomdixon.net | 2 | Nisse folding chair, $12.99; ikea.com | 3 | Muddus drop leaf table, $59.99; ikea.com | 4 | Felix side chair, $89.95 each; Crate & Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.com | 5 | Span Gateleg table, $299.99; Crate & Barrel | 6 | Spark stacking side chairs, $221 each; Design Within Reach, 42 Maryland Plaza, Central West End, dwr.com
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gadget a-go-go
Whisk product PHOTOGRAPHY by Laura Miller
©iStockphoto.com/robynmac
Put to the test
Whisks written by Pat Eby
WMF Profi Plus Stainless Steel Flat Whisk PROS
At just over 12 inches with a higher gauge wire than most, what this whisk lacks in delicacy it makes up in performance. For gravy, the flat shape dislodged the good stuff and mashed the flour to a fine roux. It blended the stock with ease, too, for lump-free gravy. When making pie, whisking the eggs with dry ingredients was a cinch, and folding in the pumpkin and evaporated milk was easy as pie. CONS
Whipping cream? Not so good. $14; Williams-Sonoma, multiple locations, williams-sonoma.com
OXO Good Grips Stainless Steel 11” French Whisk PROS
The teardrop handle makes this a comfortable whisk for prolonged cooking. For making gravy, it tested right in the middle. Good at loosening tasty bits in the pan, fine for beating flour into the fat, but not spectacular. This whisk behaved best of the bunch in a small, deep bowl for whipping cream. It caught the edges and scraped the bottom without flinging heavy cream droplets on the counter. The cream doubled in volume in just nine minutes, soft and sweet.
Chef’s Planet Whisk PROS
Kenmore Elite Silicone/ Stainless Steel Whisk PROS
Bubble, bubble. You’ll find no toil and trouble here when mixing pumpkin pie fillings. All the whisks made quicker work of blending spices cleanly into the sugar, but this whisk made a creamy pumpkin filling in no time. The Elite looks like a big brute, but its bubble shape beat the lightest cream to the largest volume in the quickest time. Performs best in a big bowl. CONS
CONS
Didn’t work well for mixing heavy canned pumpkin into the pie. Use it to mix spices and beat eggs, then pick up a good wooden spoon for the rest. $9.99; Macy’s, multiple locations, macys.com
Not so good with gravy. The bubble won’t squeeze into corners and doesn’t scrape pan drippings very well. $8.99; Kmart, multiple locations, kmart.com
The funky design of this plastic whisk looks like too much fun. It’s a version of a butterfly whisk gone higher tech. Its bulbous plastic shape with eight sturdy ribs ends with a circle and a pass-through on each leg. The open design is supposed to whip cream and eggs more quickly than traditional whisks. CONS
Two tries yielded lumpy whipped cream. The first batch took an arduous 13 minutes of rapid arm circles. It was fine one minute and near butter in the next two strokes. The second trial went better, but still took nearly 11 minutes. Stop before you think you should. Plus, this whisk is not designed to handle hot foods. $9.95; Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, kitchencopia.com
Kuhn Rikon Stainless Steel Tornado Whisk PROS
This whisk rocks scraping up pan drippings. Fling in the flour, and a roux comes together faster than you can say “mon dieu!” But you’ll still have to stir for eons if you want a chocolate brown on that baby. Surprisingly, its spare cage turned heavy cream lightas-air in under eight minutes, but it needed a bigger mixing bowl to play in to keep the splatter down. CONS
Too light to mix heavy ingredients without risking bending the wires. $15.99; Bertarelli Cutlery, 1927 Marconi Ave., The Hill, bertarellicutlery.com
Chec
k out
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W h at to l oo k for : Handles: Because whisking requires sustained, sometimes rapid, repetitive motion, look for a handle with a comfortable grip and sturdy metal construction that won’t bend or warp. Rubber-coated handles aren’t much softer, but they don’t slip. Wires: Look for wires sealed and closed into the handle for easy cleaning. Multiple loops of thinner, very flexible wires are usually best for whipping cream, eggs and some custards. Fewer, somewhat flexible and thicker wires work better for jobs like stirring polentas and cooked cereals. Length: If you plan to whisk a roux for gravy, make sure the handle’s long enough to keep hands from feeling the heat. The four
hot-duty whisks tested measured 11 to 12 inches overall. Each one passed the heat test. Materials: Teflon- and silicone-coated wires must be used with coated pans to prevent scratching. Plastic and nylon whisks stand up to cold jobs, but be sure they can also take the heat. Cleaning and storing: Even if the whisk is dishwasher safe, don’t bother. Use a whisking motion in hot, soapy water to clean the cage directly after each use. Hang to dry with the cage down so no water collects in the handle, even though most are sealed. Store by the hanging hook, on the handle in a basket or in a roomy drawer to keep the wires in good shape.
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Put these whisks to work this holiday season making the pan gravy recipe in our Cook’s Thanksgiving feature. Inspired Food Culture
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ON the shelf
BEER written by Michael Sweeney
When not using his spare time to make fun of people who write blogs, Michael Sweeney writes the beer blog STLHops.com. The irony is lost on him.
O’Fallon Brewery's O’Fallon Smoked Porter
Goose Island Brewing Co.'s Sofie
Great Divide Brewing Co.'s Yeti Imperial Stout
STYLE: Smoked Porter (6% abv)
STYLE: Saison (6.5% abv)
STYLE: Russian Imperial Stout (9.5% abv)
AVAILABLE AT: Bob's Liquor, 9347 Gravois
AVAILABLE AT: Provisions Gourmet Market,
AVAILABLE AT: Corral Liquors, 3304 Nameoki
Road, St. Louis; $8.79 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles)
11615 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur; $6.99
Road, Granite City, Ill.; $8.99 (22-oz bottle)
Here’s the thing about smoked beers: You either love them or you hate them. I, fortunately, love them. When well made, the smoked malt plays perfectly with the hops and the yeast to provide a complex intermingling of flavors. O’Fallon strikes a perfect balance, letting the smokiness of the malt blend perfectly with the rich chocolate malt flavor. Pairings: Sharp Cheddar cheese • Pulled pork
(22-oz bottle)
It can often be difficult to find a single beer to pair with the varied courses of a Thanksgiving dinner, but a Saison can work wonders. You’ll also find that the higher carbonation levels do a wonderful job of lifting heavier foods off your tongue. Sofie’s complex wild yeast flavor pairs beautifully with turkey, cranberries and even pumpkin pie.
I try not to let the seasons dictate what beers I drink, but as the days get shorter and the nights get cooler, I can’t help but reach for a Russian Imperial Stout. There is probably no better word for this beer than “decadent.” Great Divide’s Yeti is absolutely rich, with bold chocolate and coffee notes tantalizing your tongue. Pairings: Fromager d'Affinois • Chocolate chip cookies • T-Bone steak
Pairings: Roast turkey • Brie • Oysters
What’s on the shelf NOVEMBER WINE written by Angela Ortmann
STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann gained a passion for all things epicurean by working in the luxury restaurants and hotels of St. Louis and San Francisco. Through her event and consultation business, she is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.
Join Angela Ortmann and FEAST publisher Catherine Neville for a wine tasting at 6pm on Thu., Nov. 18, at Mike Shannon's Steaks and Seafood. RSVP by emailing rsvp@stlwinegirl.com. 32
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2009 Arizona Stronghold Tazi
2005 Chateau Abelyce Saint-Émilion Grand Cru
2007 Black Pearl Oro
Provenance: Arizona
Provenance: Bordeaux, France
Provenance: South Africa
Available at: Lukas Liquor Superstore, 15921 Manchester Road, Ellisville, lukasliquorstl.com; $19.99
Available at: The Vino Gallery, 4701 McPherson Ave., Central West End, thevinogallery.com; $41.99
Available at: Saint Louis Cellars, 2640 S. Big Bend Blvd., Maplewood, saintlouiscellars.com; $18.99
The Arizona Stronghold partnership is putting the state on the map as a real wine-making region, reminding us that all 50 states are currently producing wine. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Malvasia Bianca, Pinot Gris and a touch of Riesling brings tropical aromas of white peach and pineapple with strong citrus notes in the mouth that drums up cravings for Southwestern fare.
Say what you will about Merlot, but try a Bordeaux made completely from the varietal. This wine has a mellow, easydrinking quality that is enriched with continual layers revealed with each sip. It smells of ripe berries and toasted oak and tastes of black cherries and warm cocoa. The age of the wine shows well-integrated tannins and a silky texture that will continue to soften in the coming years.
South Africa has recently been recognized as an up-and-coming region in the international spotlight. This blend of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon has a deep, inky concentration and color. Aromas of raspberry jam and chocolate are met with herbal tones of mint and eucalyptus. Fruitforward, full-bodied and smooth, this wine has low tannins and would be an excellent choice for a non-red wine drinker.
Pairings: Guacamole • Salmon BLT • Chicken with pesto
Pairings: Gorgonzola • Bison burger • Filet mignon
Pairings: Chili • Eggplant Parmesan • Shepherd’s pie
SPIRITS written by Chad Michael George
Chad Michael George is an award-winning sommelier and mixologist born and raised in St. Louis. He is the founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything, from wine and cocktail list consulting to detailed spirits and mixology education.
GET CHAD’S RECIPES ON THE WEB feastSTL.com
Charbay D&T Light Whiskey (49.5% abv) Provenance: St. Helena, Calif. Available at: The Wine & Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, wineandcheeseplace.com; $51.99
Marko Karakasevic set out to make a whiskey unlike any other he had tasted, so the master distiller from Charbay started with his own IPA brew as the base for this “Doubled & Twisted” whiskey. The whiskey is aged in oak only for one day, so the true flavors of the distillate shine through. There are floral notes, with a strong green spiciness, no doubt from the hops, highlighted in the base of this whiskey.
Germain-Robin Fine Alambic Brandy, Lot 24 (40% abv)
Provenance: Ukiah, Calif. Available at: The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com; $48.99
Germain-Robin brandies are consistently named some of the best in the world, and this new entry-level offering is no different. The distiller uses much higher quality fruit than most of the large Cognac houses, and the bottling features brandies ranging from five to 10 years in the blend. If you think great brandy is not produced on this continent, you must try this bottle.
Compass Box Orangerie Scotch Whiskey Infusion (40% abv)
Provenance: Edinburgh, Scotland Available at: Winslow's Home, 7213 Delmar Blvd., University City, winslowshome.com; $46
John Glaser at Compass Box is possibly the most highly decorated man in the business, and he plays by his own rules. Glaser blended a quality single-malt whiskey and a single-grain scotch, infusing the spirits with hand-zested Navalino oranges and aromatic spices. The result throws off vanilla, winter spices, sweet orange (of course) and clove. Inspired Food Culture
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mystery shopper
Persimmon Pie Cupcakes By Stefani Pollack, Cupcake Project
“If you like the taste of persimmon, you can use it in place of pumpkin in any of your favorite fall pumpkin recipes,” says Pollack. Serves | 16 | Cupcakes
1½ cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp pumpkin pie spice
1 tsp baking soda
½ cup unsalted butter, at room temperature 1½ cups sugar
2 large eggs
¾ cup persimmon pulp (the insides of 1 to 2 seeded persimmons) ½ cup orange juice Persimmon Frosting
¾ cup sugar
½ tsp ground ginger
2 large eggs
1½ cups persimmon pulp (the inside of 2 to 3 seeded persimmons)
12 oz evaporated milk
| Preparation – Cupcakes | Preheat oven to 350ºF. In a medium-sized bowl, whisk together flour, pumpkin pie spice and baking soda. In a large bowl, cream butter and sugar, then mix in eggs, persimmon pulp and orange juice until thoroughly combined. Slowly add the flour mixture and mix until fully incorporated. Fill cupcake liners ¾ full with batter. Bake for 30 minutes or until a toothpick can be inserted and removed clean.
| Preparation – Frosting | Place all ingredients in a medium-sized saucepan over medium heat. Stir to boil for approximately 1 minute. Remove from heat
MEET: Persimmons written by Matt Sorrell
When it comes to fall fruits, apples, cranberries and pumpkins usually get all of the press. But autumn is also prime time for persimmons, and these oft-overlooked yet versatile pomes can be used in a variety of ways.
and allow mixture to come to room temperature. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours.
| To Serve | Pipe frosting onto cooled cupcakes using a pastry bag with a star tip.
What Is It?
The most common type of persimmon you’ll find in the local grocery store is the hachiya persimmon, most likely grown in California. For you foragers, keep an eye on area hillsides and backyards, as there’s also a version that grows wild here in Missouri. The sweet fruit is usually heart- or acornshaped and sports a glossy, smooth skin in beautiful hues that range from yellow-orange to deep red. You’ll usually start seeing persimmons in the produce aisle beginning in September, and they peak in abundance in November, just in time to make their way onto holiday tables. How Do I Use It?
Baked goods are where persimmons see the most action, from cookies to cakes and beyond. Try substituting them in
your favorite pie or bread recipe. But don’t stop at desserts, because persimmons have a place in a multitude of dishes. They make great jams and preserves or toppings for everything from pizzas to salads, and the pulp can be used in puddings, sauces or even smoothies. Unlike some fruits, firm does not equal ripe when it comes to most varieties of persimmon you’ll come across in this neck of the woods. A hard persimmon will be ultra-tart, so wait until it’s soft and juicy before putting it to use, and if you take home ripe persimmons, make sure you’re going to use them immediately. Otherwise, look for firmer ones that you can ripen at home. Persimmon pulp can be frozen, too, for later use.
Stop by Straub’s to pick up more delicious recipes featuring persimmons. Visit straubs.com for information on their four locations. 34
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check it out!
Feast extra
PHOTOGRAPHy by Carmen Troesser
continuously until the mixture comes to a boil. Allow
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PHOTOGRAPHY by Jennifer Silverberg
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deconstructed dishes
Duck Fat
Choucroute written by Erik Jacobs
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Recipe by Gabrielle DeMichele, Nate Bonner and Lucy Schnuck
Though bacon is the reigning food fad in the U.S., Europeans have been openly conducting a passionate porcine love affair for centuries. The Grande Dame of one-pot porkiness is choucroute, also known as choucroute garnie. Traditionally its main ingredients – namely sauerkraut and sausages – were cured, smoked and/or salted months earlier during the late summer harvest, making it a definitive hearty, early winter recipe. This glorious dish originated in the Alsace region of France and translates fabulously to our pig-happy culture. Gabrielle DeMichele, Nate Bonner and Lucy Schnuck work together to formulate original recipes, brainstorming the best ingredients, methods and techniques to employ when teaching classes at the Schnucks Cooks Cooking School in Des Peres.
Choucroute Serves | 6 | 8 cups 4 Tbsp 1 lb 5 links 3 lbs 1 cup 2 sprigs 6 2 1 tsp 4 8 cloves 2 cups 3 cups 8 to 10 ½ cup
drained sauerkraut duck fat double-smoked bacon, cut into 3-inch-long pieces smoked sausage porkette (or smoked pork chops), sliced ¼-inch thick thinly sliced sweet onion fresh thyme juniper berries small bay leaves caraway seeds whole cloves salt and freshly ground black pepper garlic, smashed Riesling or dry white wine chicken stock fingerling potatoes, cleaned chopped flat-leaf parsley crusty bread Dijon mustard
JOIN US! rsvp: schnuckscooks.com OR 314.909.1704
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| Preparation | Preheat oven to 325ºF. Rinse sauerkraut 3 times in cold running water. Drain well and set aside. In an enameled cast-iron pot, heat duck fat over medium-high heat. Add bacon and cook for 5 minutes. Remove bacon from pan, add sausages and cook for 5 minutes, flipping periodically. Remove sausages and add porkette. Sauté for about 3 minutes, turning once, and remove from pan. Reduce heat to low and add onions, thyme, juniper berries, bay leaves, caraway seeds, cloves and a pinch of salt and pepper. Sweat onions until they are translucent, not brown,
about 10 minutes. Add garlic and heat through. Deglaze the pan with wine and reduce until nearly evaporated. Add chicken stock, a pinch of salt and pepper and sauerkraut. Bring to a simmer. Top with bacon, cover and place in the oven. After 1½ hours, place the sausages and the porkette on top of the bacon. Scatter potatoes over entire dish. Cover and return to the oven for about 1 hour or until the potatoes are tender. Check the liquid; it should be mostly evaporated. If needed, add a little water.
| To Serve | Sprinkle with parsley. Serve with crusty bread and mustard.
Get hands-on with Gabrielle DeMichele and FEAST publisher Catherine Neville at 6pm on Wed., Nov. 17. You’ll make hearty meal of choucroute, apple Dutch Baby and vanilla ice cream.
NOVEMBER 2010
Duck fat has amazing flavor and provides a truly authentic way to build the base of your choucroute. It was traditionally used for its savory qualities, but duck fat also has a long shelf life. Check gourmet stores for little tubs of duck “butter” but if you cannot find it, substitute a rich lard instead.
Juniper Berries Juniper berries are often used in the preparations of wild game for their sharp, clean flavors that hint at bitter citrus. The immature berries are a dominant flavor in gin, and when dark purple and mature they are used in cooking. With its distinctive flavor, few other ingredients can match it. Crack the berries slightly before adding them to the dish to release the full flavors. If you absolutely can’t find them, use ¼ cup of gin along with the Riesling to deglaze the pot.
Caraway Seed Love it or hate it, caraway stands with cilantro as an all-or-nothing type of flavoring. Used for centuries as an accompaniment to rye bread and sauerkraut, caraway has a slight licorice flavor. Although caraway is widely available, anise can be substituted in a pinch.
Riesling Wine Riesling dominates production in Germany and the bordering French region of Alsace, from which choucroute hails. Relatively light and aged in steel or flavor-neutral barrels instead of oak, Riesling possesses delicate flavors and aromas of honey, apricot and citrus combined with a pleasant acidity. Riesling is most often vinified dry in France and offdry in Germany. If a dry Riesling isn’t readily available, lighter-bodied, nonoaked dry whites such as Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio are acceptable substitutes.
Porkette A main course in itself, porkette (porchetta in Italy) is a stuffed and rolled pork roast. Slow roasted for maximum flavor and juiciness, porkette is so popular in Italy that hundreds of food trucks serve amazing porkette-stuffed panini. Using a well-marbled (fatty) piece of shoulder or smoked chops will substitute well. If using precooked smoked loin chops, add them to the pot in the final 15 minutes of cooking to prevent them from drying out in the long braise. PHOTOGRAPHY by Rob Grimm
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a are part of what makes the holiday special. But every so often your standby dishes are due for some new ideas. Spruce up this year’s menu with our ultimate turkey and gravy recipe, served up with modern versions of your favorite sides and finished with warming pie and cocktail combos. Our complete Cook’s Thanksgiving section is full of recipes and expert tips to help you create a truly memorable Thanksgiving Day feast.
STORY AND Recipe By Erik Jacobs
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photography by Jennifer Silverberg
We are firmly entrenched in the 21st century, and by this point, you’d think no one would have to sit down to another bone-dry Thanksgiving turkey. Ironically, the cure for the common turkey lies not in a super-complicated new gadget or appliance, but in a most simple and elemental mineral: salt. Giving your thawed, uncooked turkey a simple salt bath will infuse moisture and seasoning into the cells of the meat. This, in turn, provides a buffer against overcooking the very lean meat. The process is called “brining,” and it works. Really, really well, in fact. This recipe also employs a method of internal basting in the form of a buttery, herbed bread crumb mixture inserted between the skin and the flesh of the turkey. Not only does this herb mix give the turkey phenomenal flavor, it also serves as insulation for the lean breast meat, usually the first to get overcooked as the denser dark meat comes to the proper temperature. Lastly, the ultimate Thanksgiving turkey would be hopelessly incomplete without the sweet soppin’s: An ultimately simple, yet flavorful and satisfying pan gravy made from rich, roasted shallots with the drippings of the roast.
Salt. Make special note that this recipe calls for kosher salt, not iodized table salt. The ratio is ¾ cups kosher salt + ½ cup sugar per gallon of liquid. Using table salt in this ratio will make the brine too salty. 42
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Water. To determine how much brine you will actually need, place the turkey in your chosen container and add water until completely submerged. Remove the turkey and measure the water that remains. This recipe should make 3 gallons, or enough brine to cover one 12-lb turkey.
Brining container. Common containers include a 5-gallon food-grade bucket, brining bag or cooler. Choose a container wisely: If your refrigerator won’t hold the turkey in its container, consider using a cooler to brine in. Just be sure to thoroughly sanitize before and after use.
The Ultimate Thanksgiving Turkey
Thanksgiving
Serves | 10 to 12 | BRINE
2 gallons 2¼ cups 1½ cups ¼ cup 1/8 cup 1/8 cup 2 Tbsp 10 lbs
cold water, divided kosher salt brown sugar onion powder garlic powder crushed red pepper flakes (optional) celery seeds ice
TURKEY
1 2½ sticks 3 cups ¼ cup ¼ cup ¼ cup 2 Tbsp ½ tsp ½ tsp
PAN GRAVY 1 lb
1 Tbsp 1 cup 3 cups 4 Tbsp 4 Tbsp
12- to 14-lb turkey, completely thawed (neck and giblets removed from cavity) butter, softened and divided panko bread crumbs chopped fresh parsley, plus 5 whole sprigs chopped fresh sage, plus 3 whole sprigs chopped fresh thyme, plus 3 whole sprigs chopped fresh rosemary, plus 3 whole sprigs salt freshly ground black pepper
shallots, peeled and halved lengthwise vegetable oil cream sherry (or dry white wine) homemade turkey broth (or canned, low-sodium chicken broth), divided all-purpose flour butter, at room temperature salt and freshly ground black pepper
| Preparation – Brine | In a stockpot over medium heat, combine 1 gallon water with salt, sugar and spices. Bring to boil and stir until salt and sugar are dissolved. Pour into a brining container and add remaining gallon cold water. Submerge turkey in solution and add ice to cover completely. Brine at least 12 hours, up to 24. Thoroughly rinse turkey under cold running water after brining and dry completely before proceeding. | Preparation – Turkey | Preheat oven to 400°F. Position rack in bottom third of oven. Mix 2 sticks butter, bread crumbs, and chopped herbs in medium bowl. Starting at neck end, carefully slide fingers between skin and breast meat to loosen skin, being careful not to tear it. The blunt end of a wooden spoon works well to reach the areas of the bird where your fingers won’t. Spread 1 cup herbed bread crumb mixture over breast meat under skin, thoroughly covering with about ¼-inch of mixture. Sprinkle main cavity of turkey with salt and pepper. Add any remaining bread crumb mixture to cavity along with the whole sprigs of herbs. Tuck wing tips under and tie legs together to hold shape. Place turkey in large roasting pan and rub remaining 4 Tbsp butter over turkey. Generously salt and pepper buttered skin. Place turkey in oven and roast for 30 minutes at 400°F. Reduce temperature to 350°F and continue roasting turkey for 1½ hours. Once breast begins to turn golden brown, place a sheet of foil over turkey breast. Continue to roast until golden all over and thermometer inserted into thickest part of thigh registers 165°F. Transfer turkey to platter. Tent loosely with foil and allow to rest for at least 20 minutes, up to 60 minutes.
| Preparation – Pan Gravy | Toss shallots in oil and add to roasting pan of turkey approximately 45 minutes before turkey is scheduled to be done. When turkey is done and shallots are a deep mahogany brown, transfer shallots out of roasting pan. Pour pan juices from the roasting pan into a medium bowl or stock degreaser; spoon off and discard grease. Add sherry and 1 cup broth to roasting pan. Set pan directly over burner (2 if possible) and bring broth mixture to boil, making sure to dissolve any browned bits. Continue to boil until reduced by half. Pour into large glass measuring cup. Add degreased pan juices and enough water or broth to equal 3 cups liquid. Blend flour into butter in separate dish. Pour broth mixture into medium saucepan and bring to boil. Gradually whisk in butterflour mixture. Add any accumulated juices from turkey platter. Boil until gravy thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon lightly, about 6 minutes. Add shallots to gravy; simmer 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Inspired Food Culture
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Winter Scallop and Frisée Salad By Kirk Warner, Kirk’s Traveling Kitchen
Serves | 8 | SALAD 4 cups
4 Tbsp 2 to 3 cups 16 to 24 4 cups 1 Tbsp
chicken stock extra virgin olive oil, divided sunchokes, scrubbed or peeled and chopped kosher salt and white pepper, to taste cooking oil 20/30 dry scallops, cleaned young frisée, finely shaved and washed fresh lemon juice truffle oil (optional) sea salt, to taste
ss er
WARM MUSHROOM VINAIGRETTE
d mpile es co Recip
ills | ndi W a r B y B
hy rap tog p ho
oe Tr n me Car by
2 lbs ½ cup 2 cups 2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 1 1 Tbsp
portabella mushrooms, stemmed and sliced thick extra virgin olive oil, divided chicken stock sherry vinegar aged balsamic vinegar shallot, minced minced garlic salt and freshly ground black pepper
| Preparation – Salad | Combine stock, 2 Tbsp olive oil and sunchokes in small saucepan. Simmer until sunchokes are tender, about 20 minutes. Remove and purée until smooth. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm. In large skillet, cook scallops in oil over medium-high heat until golden on one side only. Turn scallops over and turn off heat. Meanwhile, toss frisée with remaining olive oil, lemon juice, truffle oil and sea salt. | Preparation – Vinaigrette | In a sauté pan, cook mushrooms in 2 Tbsp oil over high heat, 5 minutes or until soft. Add stock and braise mushrooms 5 minutes longer. Remove mushrooms from pan. Simmer stock until it reduces to 2/3 cup. Add remaining ingredients and season to taste. | To Serve | In a stemmed glass, ladle several spoonfulls sunchoke purée, top with warm mushroom vinaigrette, then seared scallops sliced in half. Top with lightly dressed frisée.
Beet, Pistachio and Whipped Goat Cheese Salad By Kirk Warner, Kirk’s Traveling Kitchen
Serves | 6 | 1 1 3 Tbsp ½ cup 8 oz 2 1 clove 1 tsp 2 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1 cup
red beet, greens trimmed golden beet, greens trimmed extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for roasting beets salt and freshly ground black pepper heavy cream fresh goat cheese, at room temperature white pepper small shallots, minced garlic, minced honey sherry vinegar fresh dill, minced crushed pistachios
| Preparation | Preheat oven to 375ºF. Rub beets with olive oil and generous amount of salt. Wrap separately in foil and bake until tender, about 1 hour. Cool, peel and dice uniformly. Whip heavy cream until stiff peaks form, fold in goat cheese and pepper. Mix shallots, garlic, honey, sherry vinegar, olive oil, dill, salt and pepper. In different bowls, toss half of this mixture with gold beets and half with red beets. In clear decorative glasses, layer red beets, gold beets and cheese. Top with generous amount of crushed pistachios and keep refrigerated until ready to serve.
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Sweet Potato and Pecan Flan By Bryon Grant, L’Ecole Culinaire
Serves | 6 | 2 lbs 2 Tbsp + 1 tsp 2 Tbsp ¾ cup 1 cup 3 cups 3 cups 7 4
sweet potatoes, peeled and diced unsalted butter brown sugar salt, to taste sugar pecan pieces whole milk heavy cream large eggs egg yolks
| Preparation | Preheat oven to 325ºF. Sauté sweet potatoes in 2 Tbsp butter until lightly browned. Add brown sugar to sweet potatoes and slightly caramelize. Season with salt. In separate pan over medium-high heat, add sugar and allow to dissolve without stirring, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Add pecans and stir. When sugared pecans just begin to smoke, reduce to medium-low heat and continue stirring until pecans caramelize. Add 1 tsp butter to coat pecans. Turn out onto parchment paper and cool. In saucepan, bring milk and cream to a point just below boil. While dairy is heating, whisk eggs and yolks in a bowl until well blended. Temper eggs with dairy then mix in remaining dairy to make custard. In 6 separate timbales, or molds, place generous dollops of sweet potato filling, top with custard and add a small amount of candied pecans. Place timbales in a baking dish with high sides and fill dish with hot water almost the height of the custard. Bake until set, 20 to 30 minutes. Check for doneness by gently shaking timbales; if custard jiggles slightly, they are done. Remove from oven and cool briefly before removing timbales from baking dish. Refrigerate timbales until firm, a few hours to overnight. To remove the flan, run a paring knife around the inside edge of the timbale to loosen.
Southwest Corn Flan By Bryon Grant, L’Ecole Culinaire
Serves | 6 | 2 cups 1 Tbsp ¼ cup 1 Tbsp 3 cups 3 cups 7 4
corn kernels chipotle in adobo diced red pepper diced jalapeño kosher salt olive oil whole milk heavy cream large eggs egg yolks
| Preparation | Preheat oven to 325ºF. In hot pan, sauté corn, chipotle in adobo, red peppers and jalapeños, seasoned with salt, in dime-sized drop of oil until tender. Cool on paper towel and remove any extra oil from pan. In saucepan, bring milk and cream to a point just below boil. While dairy is heating, whisk eggs and yolks in a bowl until well blended. Temper eggs with dairy then mix in remaining dairy to make custard. In 6 separate timbales, place a spoonful of corn mixture and fill with custard. Place timbales in a baking dish with high sides and fill dish with hot water almost the height of the custard. Bake until set,
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20 to 30 minutes. Check for doneness by gently shaking timbales; if custard jiggles slightly, they are done. Remove from oven and cool briefly before removing timbales from baking dish.
Lobster and Saffron Flan
Refrigerate timbales until firm, a few hours to overnight. To remove the flan, run a paring knife around the inside edge of the timbale to loosen.
3 cups 3 cups 5 threads 7 4 8 oz
By Bryon Grant, L’Ecole Culinaire
Serves | 6 | whole milk heavy cream saffron large eggs egg yolks lobster meat from tail or claw, chopped salt and freshly ground black pepper
| Preparation | Preheat oven to 325ÂşF. In saucepan, bring milk, cream and saffron to a point just below boil. While dairy is heating, whisk eggs and yolks in a separate bowl until well blended. Temper eggs with dairy then mix in remaining dairy to make custard. Distribute lobster meat evenly into 6 timbales, and pour custard mix gently over lobster. Place timbales in a baking dish with high sides and spread out. Fill a baking dish with hot water almost the height of the custard. Bake until set, 20 to 30 minutes. Check for doneness by gently shaking the timbales; if the custard jiggles slightly, they are done. Remove from oven and allow to cool briefly before removing timbales from baking dish. Refrigerate timbales until firm, a few hours to overnight. To remove the flan, run a paring knife around the inside edge of the timbale to loosen.
Join FEAST for a live cooking demo featuring rich, wonderful holiday desserts. Call 314.587.2433 to reserve your space!
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Black Walnut Stuffing with Figs and Bacon By Clara Moore, Local Harvest CafĂŠ
The sweetness of the figs really complements the salty bacon. Since figs are out of season by the end of November, either purchase them early and freeze until using, or use dried figs and reconstitute them with stock. The black walnuts add an earthy flavor that rounds out this stuffing. Serves | 12 to 16 |
COOKING DEMO!
Visit http://gettag.mobi from your smart phone, download the free app, and scan the Microsoft Tag to watch chef Clara make her cardamom blue cornbread stuffing. Or watch the video in the Watch & Listen section at feastSTL.com.
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10 cups 6 Tbsp 6 2 Tbsp 3 1 Tbsp 1/3 cup 8 1 cup 1 cup
cubed brioche butter, melted thick slices Missouri bacon, cut into ½-inch pieces olive oil shallots, minced fresh thyme, chopped sherry fresh figs, quartered toasted black walnuts, chopped chicken stock or vegetable stock zest of 1 lemon salt and freshly ground black pepper
| Preparation | Preheat oven to 200ºF. Toss cubed brioche with melted butter and toast bread on sheet pan for 20 minutes. Raise oven temperature to 350ºF. In a large skillet, cook bacon until all fat is rendered and the bacon is crispy. Remove bacon from pan, leaving behind drippings. Add olive oil to drippings and sauté shallots until translucent. Add thyme and sherry to pan. Cook for 1 minute. Add bacon, pan gravy and remaining ingredients to the toasted bread. Incorporate carefully, so not to break up the brioche too much. Place stuffing mixture in greased ovenproof pan, cover and bake 30 minutes. Remove cover and bake 20 minutes.
Crawfish Stuffing By Clara Moore, Local Harvest Café
on sheet pan and place in oven for about 20 minutes. In a large skillet, sauté shallots and celery in 5 Tbsp of butter and bacon fat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are soft. Add crawfish tail meat to pan; if precooked simply warm, if raw, cook until bright red. Add sage, thyme, salt and pepper. Cook for a minute to release the flavors of the herbs, then add stock, hot sauce and vermouth. Mix into a bowl with the bread cubes and let stand 15 minutes. Raise the oven temperature to 400ºF. Grease an ovenproof pan with 1 Tbsp butter. Transfer stuffing into pan and cover with foil. Bake for 30 minutes, remove foil and drizzle with remaining butter. Bake for 30 minutes.
Cardamom Blue Cornbread Stuffing By Clara Moore, Local Harvest Café
This is my Midwestern take on traditional oyster stuffing. You can buy crawfish tails or live crawfish at Bob’s Seafood on Olive Boulevard. Serves | 12 to 16 | 10 cups 4 6 stalks 7 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 1 lb 2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 2 cups 1 tsp 1/3 cup
cubed crusty French bread shallots, thinly sliced celery, thinly sliced unsalted butter, divided bacon fat or olive oil crawfish tail meat fresh sage, chopped fresh thyme, chopped salt and freshly ground black pepper chicken stock or vegetable stock Tabasco sauce dry vermouth
| Preparation | Preheat oven to 200ºF. Arrange bread cubes
The cardamom in this stuffing adds a surprising flavor component that goes well with other traditional Thanksgiving sides, such as sweet potatoes and cranberries. I like to use whole green cardamom pods. It is best to crack them with the handle of your knife to get as much flavor as you can from them. You can also make this recipe with yellow cornmeal. Serves | 6 to 10 | Cornbread
½ cup 1½ cup 1 tsp 2 tsp ½ tsp 2 Tbsp 2 1 cup 1/3 cup
all-purpose flour stone-ground blue cornmeal brown sugar baking powder kosher salt honey eggs, beaten sour cream milk
1 cup fresh corn kernels 6 Tbsp butter, melted
Stuffing 5
2/3 cup 1 6 stalks 2 Tbsp 3 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1/3 tsp 1/3 tsp 1 2
cardamom pods, cracked chicken stock or vegetable stock medium yellow onion celery, diced olive oil butter sage, chopped nutmeg coriander salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste recipe of cornbread, baked and cooled eggs, beaten
| Preparation – Cornbread | Preheat oven to 375ºF. Combine wet and dry ingredients in separate bowls. Stir the dry into the wet, and pour mixture into a well-seasoned cast iron skillet. Bake 35 to 40 minutes.
| Preparation – Stuffing | Heat cardamom pods in stock for 10 minutes. Strain stock to remove pods. Preheat oven to 350ºF. In large skillet, sauté onion and celery in oil and butter until soft. Add sage, nutmeg, coriander, salt and pepper. Crumble cornbread into large bowl and add vegetables, stock and eggs. Stir, careful not to completely break up cornbread. Place mixture in greased ovenproof pan and bake, covered, for 30 minutes. Uncover and cook 30 minutes longer.
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ell | tt Sorr a M y B d e pil
phy ogra phot
din Car f f o e by G
co m Recipes
Wrap up your Thanksgiving feast with our dessert-and-drink pairings, designed by their creators to play on one another’s hearty fall flavors.
No-Fail Pie Crust By Tim Brennan, Cravings
This is a “short” crust, so the texture is flinty, not flaky. “The technique of mixing the dough just right and rolling it the bare amount is really complicated for about 99 percent of home bakers,” Brennan says. “Most over-handle the dough and make it tough, not flaky. This crust can all be done in a food processor.” Yield | 1 pie crust | 1½ cups ¼ cup ½ cup 6 oz ½ tsp 1 pinch 2 tsp
unbleached flour sugar English walnut pieces chilled unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes baking soda kosher salt sour cream
| Preparation | Place flour through salt in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until butter is pea-size. Add sour cream and process only until the dough comes together. Butter or spray a 9-inch deepdish pie pan. Press dough evenly into the pie pan. Chill 1 hour or overnight.
• Err on the side of under-mixing rather than over-mixing. Use the pulse button on your food processor instead of the continuous button. • Make sure the butter stays cold. • When baking anything, turn off your cell phone and pay attention. “When it comes to baking, precision is crucial,” according to Brennan. “If you make a soup and it’s watery, you can add things and adjust that soup. If you bake a cake and you forget an ingredient, you have to start over again. Once it’s in the oven, you can’t alter it.”
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Apple Walnut Pie By Kate Morrissey, Katie Pie’s Pies n’ Pastries
“Most recipes call for unsalted butter, but I use salted butter. I’ve found that if we use salted butter and don’t add salt later to the recipe, it works out better. I can taste the granulated salt when it’s added.” Yield | 1 pie |
blender until the butter bits are pea-size. Cut in vegetable shortening until entire mixture is crumbly. Add cold water and blend together with your hands until dough ball forms. Remove dough, divide into 2 balls and roll out for top and bottom crusts. Place bottom crust in pie pan.
| To Assemble | Preheat oven to 375°F. Spoon filling into pie shell and cover with top crust. Cut slits in the crust in at least 3 places. Brush with milk and dust with sanding sugar. Bake 10 minutes, then reduce heat to 350°F and bake 30 minutes.
Apple Crisp Pie
½ cup ½ cup ¾ cup ½ cup 1 tsp ½ cup ½ cup 6
sugar old-fashioned oats packed brown sugar flour ground cinnamon chopped walnuts cold salted butter large Golden Delicious or Gala apples, peeled and sliced
Pastry Crust
2½ cups 2 Tbsp ½ tsp ½ cup ½ cup ¼ cup
flour sugar salt cold salted butter cold vegetable shortening cold water whole milk sanding sugar
| Preparation – Pie Filling | Mix sugar, oats, brown sugar, flour, cinnamon and walnuts. Cut up the butter and mix it in with these ingredients. Sprinkle mixture over apples in a large bowl and gently mix until thoroughly coated.
| Preparation – Pastry Crust | Mix flour, sugar and salt. Slice butter in small pieces and cut into flour mixture with pastry
Maple Buttered Rum By Sunny McElwain, Terrene
“Maple has been something I’ve been bouncing around in my head for a while,” McElwain says. “When I saw apple and walnut in the pie recipe, it was an immediate match for me. It all goes so well together. Also, I think apples and rum make a good pair.” Serves | 1 | 2 Tbsp 1 tsp ½ cup 1 oz 1 oz
maple butter (recipe follows) maple syrup water Crusoe organic spiced rum Myers’s dark rum cinnamon stick
| Preparation | Temper a mug (fill it with hot water for a few minutes, then empty and dry) and add maple butter and maple syrup. Heat water until desired temperature and add both rums. Pour into the mug slowly and stir until butter is melted. Add cinnamon stick.
By Sunny McElwain, Terrene
Serves | 20 |
1 lb ½ lb ½ cup ½ Tbsp ¼ tsp ¼ tsp
unsalted butter, at room temperature brown sugar maple sugar ground cinnamon ground clove ground nutmeg
| Preparation | Mix all the ingredients together in a food processor until well incorporated. Refrigerate until ready to use. Can be frozen up to 6 months.
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Chess Pie By Carolyn Downs, Cyrano’s Café
“It’s like a custard,” Downs says of this old-school Southern favorite. “It’s also sometimes referred to as a sugar pie.” Yield | 1 pie | 2 cups 4 ¼ cup 1 tsp 1 tsp 1
sugar eggs melted butter organic apple cider vinegar vanilla extract prepared pie crust (see page 50 for Tim Brennan’s No-Fail pie crust)
| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350°F. In a bowl, stir sugar and eggs until combined. Add melted butter, vinegar and vanilla. Whisk until smooth. Pour mixture into pastry crust. Bake until crust is golden brown and center of pie is set, about 40 to 45 minutes.
Late Harvest Cider By Sunny McElwain, Terrene
“My mom’s from the South, so Chess Pie is a staple,” McElwain says. “It was the biggest challenge because it’s such a delicately flavored pie. I didn’t want to overpower it. I thought apples and apricots would pair well, and the Tuaca has a nice vanilla flavor that balances out the acidity of the drink.” Serves | 1 | ¾ cup 1 oz ½ oz ½ oz
apple cider (cider from Schwartz Orchard in Centralia, Ill., recommended) Domaine de Canton Rothman & Winter Orchard apricot liqueur Tuaca apple, sliced very thin
| Preparation | Heat cider to desired temperature and add the Canton, apricot liqueur and Tuaca. Stir and serve with a thin slice of apple floating on top.
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Hot to Trot Chocolate By Sunny McElwain, Terrene
“I wanted something that would cut through the richness of the peanut butter shortbread and also pair nicely with it,” McElwain says, “I thought about eating peanut butter and jelly sandwiches as a kid, and I loved chocolate milk with them. I went old-school lunch box on this one.” Serves | 1 | ½ cup ¼ cup 3 Tbsp 1 oz ¼ oz ¼ oz
whole milk heavy cream Kakao hot chocolate mix Germain-Robin Alambic Brandy XO Navan vanilla liqueur Thatcher’s Organic Coffeehouse liqueur marshmallows
| Preparation | Mix milk and cream together and heat until desired temperature; do not boil. Put hot chocolate mix in a mug and add just enough hot milk to cover. Let sit for 1 minute. Stir to form a smooth paste and add remaining hot milk slowly to incorporate. Add the brandy, Navan and coffee liqueur and stir. Serve with marshmallows.
Concord Grape Pie By Leanna Russo, The BitterSweet Bakery
“There’s a lot of good fat in peanuts so naturally it’ll be temperamental,” says Russo of the shortbread crust. “You may just want to press the dough into your shell. Just relax; pies are not always meant to be gorgeous.” Yield | 1 pie | Peanut Butter Shortbread Crust
½ cup ¾ cup 1/3 cup 1½ cup
Pie Filling 5 cups
¾ tsp ¼ cup 1¼ cups 1 pinch 1½ Tbsp
confectioners’ sugar butter, at room temperature chunky peanut butter all-purpose flour, divided
Concord grapes, washed and skins removed lemon zest or juice all-purpose flour sugar salt butter
| Preparation – Peanut Butter Shortbread Crust | In a mixer combine sugar, butter and peanut butter until creamy. Add 1 cup of flour and beat it in. Add enough of remaining flour to make a ball. Roll out or press into pie shell and chill.
| Preparation – Pie Filling | Preheat oven to 350°F. Place grapes in large saucepan, mashing slightly to release juices. Cook over medium heat until grapes come to a boil. Remove from heat and run through food mill to remove seeds and combine skins with seedless pulp. Stir in lemon zest or juice. In a separate bowl mix flour, sugar and salt. Stir into grape mixture and pour into cold pie shell. Dot with butter and bake until grape mixture bubbles.
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From the Cellars of
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The French Laundry So how did St. Louis’ Chris Hoel get from the halls of UMSL to one of the world’s best restaurants? WRITTEN By Barbara E. Stefàno photography by Matt McFarland
Chris Hoel’s days are a blur of fine vino, rich foods, hand-shaking and more wine-pairing talk than most people do in a lifetime. Hoel, a former key player in and continuing contributor to the St. Louis wine scene, is sommelier at The French Laundry, chef Thomas Keller’s incredibly famous Yountville, Calif., fine-dining Mecca that’s consistently ranked among the best in the world. It tops many a foodand wine-lover’s bucket list – diners fork out $250 for a nine-course prix fixe – and Hoel is the guy who stocks that bucket with the rarest and most exquisite wines.
Hoel routinely puts in 65 to 70 hours a week, juggling duties that range from ordering to organizing. One of his primary responsibilities is to manage and inventory the 2,700 different wines in The French Laundry’s collection. That starts with storing one to a few bottles of each wine in two on-site cellars and shipping the rest to “Siberia,” a 10,000-plusbottle backup cellar located off-site. He never dreamed how many corks he’d be popping when he got his start crunching numbers. Hoel earned a bachelor’s in finance from the University of MissouriSt. Louis, but promptly went to work as a banquet server at Bellerive Country Club. After becoming maitre d’ in 1996, Hoel “caught the 58
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wine bug” and forsook his financial degree for self-paced schooling in all things wine.
bottles-per-seat ratios in the nation. “Almost every table drinks wine; I’d say 90 percent.”
“My mom would drink Paul Masson, but I bought wine from the club,” says Hoel. “I remember buying a Sterling Three Palms Vineyard Merlot, 1991 – it was amazing. I knew in the first few sips it was different. From there on out I was constantly chasing [wine knowledge]. The more I found out, the less I found out I knew.”
In his pursuit of expertise, Hoel quickly figured out that there’s really no one place to learn the trade. While European wine experts are held to extremely high training standards and have ample choices for formal education, there are only a few schools in the States that offer extensive sommelier training. Even then, wine courses are generally offered as offshoots of the culinary schools, he says.
Today, Hoel tests each and every bottle that comes through The French Laundry’s door, by sight, by aroma and, if necessary, by taste. The onus is on him to catch the roughly 5 percent of wines that are corked or otherwise flawed. “In an average week, I’m probably tasting a hundred wines.
Instead, Hoel found his education with mentor Bob Kabel, the late wine director for the Adam’s Mark Hotel and Faust’s Restaurant, for whom he worked from 1996 to ‘98. “Bob would open a random bottle every night and we’d just dissect it.”
“We go through an immense amount of wine – it’s staggering,” he says. Officially a 60-seat establishment, The French Laundry burns through 70 cases per week, one of the highest
Kabel’s tutelage gave Hoel the skills and know-how he needed to move on to wine director and sales positions at Truffles, A. Bommarito Wines and Monarch Restaurant &
Wine Bar, among other establishments. Then, during a trip to Sonoma a few years ago, he learned of an opening at The French Laundry. Hoel was certain his resume would go straight to File 13. “I didn’t think it was possible,” he says. “I’d met so many people who were so much more qualified. About a hundred people applied.” Still, on a visit to the restaurant, he put his best foot forward. “I kept throwing my name out there as many times as possible and shaking as many hands as I could,” says Hoel, and he snagged a lower-level sommelier position. He started in May 2008 and has since moved up to the No. 2 position behind head sommelier Dennis Kelly. 62
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Today, Hoel and the restaurant’s chefs routinely collaborate during menu development, with Hoel testing dishes and suggesting ingredients and flavors that might bring out desirable notes in the wines or advising against certain elements that may not play nicely. Embracing the restaurant’s cooperative spirit, the chefs “are always interested in bouncing around flavor ideas,” says Hoel. Though Hoel trains front-of-house staff, most diners get just a few pages into the restaurant’s 105-page wine list before entreating a sommelier for assistance. He and three other sommeliers visit each table nightly, tactfully querying diners about their tastes, budget and adventurousness, keeping in mind what works with the day’s menu. “With 2,700 wines, there’s probably 50 that work with every course.” Currently, Hoel is an Advanced Sommelier and is working his way through a four-tiered program through the Court of
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Master Sommeliers that culminates in a Master Sommelier distinction, the only sommelier credential that is recognized internationally. The testing is so rigorous that only 10 percent who test for certification – one or two candidates each year – pass the exam. There are only about 180 Master Sommeliers worldwide, and almost none of them passed on the first try, Hoel says. He has personally made four attempts and plans to try again next February. When asked if he’s ever been stymied for a pairing, he admits there’s one French Laundry specialty called Coffee and Donuts – a decadent coffee semifreddo with a tiny cinnamonsugar-dusted doughnut – for which he simply makes no recommendations. “It’s just so perfect. There’s no wine that goes with that,” he says. “We just stand back and smile, and tell [the customers] to enjoy and we’ll bring a wine with the next dessert.”
Laundry List Thanksgiving Wine Pairings Just getting the Thanksgiving turkey to the table is a feat in itself. But put together a holiday feast with brilliant wine pairings for every course, and you’ll live on in family lore as a true genius. Take a cue from The French Laundry sommelier Chris Hoel, who knows just the right vino to elevate each dish – even a bonedry bird – to another level.
Turkey – Gewürztraminer (France) Specifically, Hoel recommends a Gewürztraminer from the Alsace region of France. “It’s very aromatic and has a wide spectrum of flavors and aromas that lend itself to all the accoutrements on the table, from the turkey to the cranberries to the potatoes.” For the best turkey match-up, choose an off-dry.
Stuffing – Vernaccia or Verdichio (Italy) “These [wines] are light and have a slightly bitter almond character. They have a relatively high acidity, which makes them work well with stuffing.” Hoel suggests choosing an oak-aged varietal that will stand up to the richness of the stuffing. “It has the same earthy flavor and aroma to match the earthiness of the herbs.”
Cranberries/Cranberry Sauce – Pinot Noir (California) “Big, robust Sonoma Coast [wines] have rich cherry notes to them,” Hoel says. The bouncy fruit flavor of a Sonoma Pinot Noir complements the tart berries beautifully.
Candied Yams – Riesling Spätlese (Germany) If you can get your hands on a bottle of vintage 2002, you’ll love how this versatile, late-harvest Riesling holds up to the semi-sweet tubers. Then again, Hoel suggests this might be a good time to pop the cap on a Hefeweizen. This full-bodied German wheat beer, dressed up with an orange peel, is slightly sweet and complex enough to be an interesting counterpart to the yams.
Green Beans – Albariño (Spain) Select this white wine from the Rias Baixas region to provide the perfect foil for beans. “Albariño has a nice herbal edge and high acidity, which you need with green vegetables and their astringency,” Hoel says. “It also has peach flavors and green notes of grass, sugar snap peas and radishes that work well.”
Pumpkin Pie – Tokaji (Hungary) This amber-hued wine ranges in sweetness, ranked on a nine-point puttonyos scale. Hoel suggests a level of 6 puttonyos when paring with a sweet pumpkin pie. “Tokaji has some of the same flavors: pumpkin, roasted root vegetables, cinnamon – with the aromas of ripe fruits.”
A Singular Choice – Riesling (Germany) In the interest of de-stressing the big day, you can always simplify the whole affair by stocking up on multiple bottles of the same wine. While Gewürztraminer is exceptionally versatile, the best Thanksgiving meal wine is German Riesling, Hoel says. “It has a nice residual sweetness and acidity that goes well with everything on the table.” Inspired Food Culture
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THE FOODIE GIFT GUIDE GIFTS FOR the foodie HOSTESS RECOMMENDATIONS By Kristin Brashares
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WHERE TO GET IT
Infused spirits | 1 | If gifting a bottle of wine is something you’ve done a hundred times over, check out Vom Fass’ specialty spirits and cream liqueurs. Sampled and sold “from the cask” (in German, vom fass), the dozens of fine infusions offer plenty of variety, from the sweet and tart sour cherry vodka to the nut chocolate flavored hazelnut liqueur. The liqueurs are divine by themselves or mixed together and add unique flavors to cocktails and baking. No matter how you present them, you know they’ll be well received. Lemoncello, $12.99; Sour cherry vodka, $11.99; Nut chocolate, $11.99; Caipirinha lime liqueur, $11.99. All priced at 100 ml. Available in 50 to 350 ml from Vom Fass, 7314 Manchester Road, Maplewood, vomfassusa.com
Olive wood utensils | 2 | The silky smoothness, gorgeous grain patterns and lightweight feel of these sophisticated olive wood kitchen utensils, carved from aged olive wood, will have recipients tossing out their tattered old counterparts and never looking back. The tightness of the grain prevents splintering, making caregiving a cinch. Extra Virgin’s shelves are stocked with mixing and olive spoons, spatulas, cutting boards, cheese knives and more – giving all kinds of gift options.
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Soup spoon, $11.95; Testing spoon, $10.95; Olive spoon, $8.95; Cheese knife, $7.95; Small cutting board, $19.95; Slotted spoon, $14.95; Parisian salad set, $29.95; Deluxe curved spatula, $11.95. All from Extra Virgin, an Olive Ovation, 143 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, extravirginoo.com
Perfectly steeped tea | 3 | This is the time of year for tea, and what better way to unwind after having guests over than with a properly steeped cup? Settings on The Republic of Tea’s timer cover all the bases (white, green, black and yellow teas), so your host can get the most out of their favorite blend throughout the holiday season. If you want to toss in some tea with this gift, The Republic of Tea’s selection is impressive and diverse. Comfort and Joy tea, $3.95; British Breakfast tea, $10.50; The Republic of Tea tea lid timer, $13.95. All from Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, kitchenconservatory.com
The candle: a modern classic | 4 | Sure, a candle is a common go-to gift, but this is no ordinary stack of wax. An eco-conscious hostess will love the fact that it’s made with 100 percent natural organic wax and encased in a recycled wine bottle – not to mention the heavenly scent. Blossom Organic Salvage candle, $37; Lusso, 165 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, lussohome.com
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Flavored salts | 5 | These infused crystals add an exquisite flavor to almost any food. The best-selling black truffle salt finishes off red meats or seasons mashed potatoes and buttered popcorn. Vanilla bean salt (made with genuine Tahitian vanilla beans) delectably dusts over chocolate cake or works magic in cookie dough. The full-of-fire-but-not-short-on-flavor ghost pepper salt (made with the Naga Jolokia pepper) kicks up dishes for the daring, and chile verde salt pairs well with Mexican dishes and seafood. Don’t expect to leave with just one; the second the gourmet grains hit your taste buds, you’ll need some for your own kitchen. Unlabeled chile verde, $11.99; Jalapeño, $14.99; Labeled chile verde, $14.99; Vanilla bean, $14.99; Black truffle, $17.99. All from Di Olivas, West County Mall, Des Peres, diolivas.com
Exotic candy bars | 6 | As if we needed further proof that chocolate makes all things better, Vosges Haut Chocolat’s exotic chocolate bars work wonders with unexpected ingredients such as ginger, wasabi, black sesame seeds, New Orleans style chicory, cylon cinnamon and Oaxacan guajillo y pasilla chiles. This best-selling gift at Lusso comes with nine bars in four flavors. The mini-sweets make an indulgent post-party treat. Vosges Haut Chocolat, $28; Lusso
“Weigh” cool kitchen scales | 7 | It’s easy to be dazzled by the ultra-sleek physique of these vibrantly colored, iPod-reminiscent digital baking scales, but the true beauty behind this gift lies in its functionality. The glide of a finger over two touch sensors activates the scale, which weighs dry and liquid ingredients in pounds and fluid ounces or grams and milliliters. The slender size lends to simple storage, but the cool factor makes the scale difficult to tuck away. Molly by ADE digital kitchen scale, $34.95 each; Kitchen Conservatory Spirits, olive wood accessories, tea, salts and scales PHOTOGRAPHy by Laura Miller
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THE FOODIE GIFT GUIDE GIFTS FOR the Budding Chef RECOMMENDATIONS By Brandi Wills
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Tools for a better breakfast | 1 | There are few things that will get kids out of bed quicker in the morning than sticky-sweet breakfast treats. Let them try their hand at the griddle with Waring Pro’s easy-to-use, flipable Belgian waffle maker. And little ones love the “falling snow” effect of shaking powdered sugar over their waffles. We like the mesh sugar shaker, for maximum snow fall, from Williams-Sonoma. Waring Pro Belgian waffle maker, $79.95; Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, kitchenconservatory.com; Mesh sugar shaker, $19.95; Williams-Sonoma, multiple locations, williamssonoma.com
WHERE TO GET IT
Brightly colored basics | 2 | Get your kids mixing and measuring with their very own collection of kitchen gear. Mixing bowls equipped with handles, nonslip bottoms and easy-pour spouts are perfect for novice bakers. Measuring colanders that multitask and melamine spoons that can take a beating are also handy tools. Put together a package of brightly colored wares that your petite chef will be excited to use. Chef’s Planet measuring colander, $14.95; Kuhn Rikon silicon whisk, $17.95; Orka red spoon, $8.95; Melamine slotted utensils, $3.95 each; Multi-colored spreaders, $1.95 each. All from Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, kitchencopia.com
Cooking classes for kids | 3 | Enroll your kids in one of the many area cooking classes created for young chefs. They’ll learn essential skills, try new foods, meet other aspiring gourmands and best of all ... someone else cleans up afterward. Check out the kid-friendly curriculum at Schnucks Cooks Cooking School for creative culinary lessons. Visit schnuckscooks.com for a complete class schedule or call 314.909.1704 to inquire about future kid-centric classes.
Feed the cupcake craze | 4 | As trendy as they are tasty, cupcakes are the dessert de jour 365 days a year. Let little helpers join in the fun with a variety of decorative details from colorful sanding sugars to winter-themed sprinkles. Display their culinary artistry on a cupcake tree and you’ll have a pâtissier in the making. Cupcake dessert stand, $30.95; Red coarse sugar, $2.50; Dark green sanding sugar, $2.50; Snowflake sprinkles, $2.50. All from Kitchen Conservatory. Delicious assorted cupcakes courtesy The Cup, 28 Maryland Plaza Rear, Central West End, cravethecup.com. Gift certificates available.
Retro-style aprons | 5 | Holiday gifts are just as much about giving as they are receiving. Teach your children the importance of building a better community through supporting local artists and crafters. With an abundance of local craft shows popping up in November and December, it’s not hard to find retrostyle aprons in one-of-a-kind designs. Or shop online at Etsy and check out Pepper ‘n’ Salt Aprons by St. Louis crafter, Meredith Farese. Her adorable aprons come in a variety of patterns with a cute, button-close back and heart-shaped measuring spoons in the pockets. Little Master aprons shown in Posey and Picasso, $12 each; peppernsaltaprons.etsy.com
Slicing and chopping without the cuts | 6 | Chef’n gadgets, with their safety-first design and fun colors, are ideal for the amateur garde manger. Prep work becomes play with the VeggiChop (a non-electric food chopper powered by a pull-cord), the Bananza banana slicer and the BeanSlice (get fresh, French-style green beans with a quick push-and-pull method). Fingers stay far away from blades while kids get closer to their food. Chef’n gadgets are available at multiple retailers. Find the location nearest you at chefn.com. Bright basics, cupcakes and aprons PHOTOGRAPHY by Laura Miller YouNg chef PHOTOGRAPHY: ©iStockphoto.com/perkmeup
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THE FOODIE GIFT GUIDE
RECOMMENDATIONS By Catherine Neville
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Contact McKenzie directly to learn more: chrismckenzie30@hotmail.com
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GIFTS FOR INSPIRED Food Lovers
The gift of good meat | 1 | Know a grill master who wishes they had access to the same quality pork or beef as the city’s best chefs? Chris McKenzie’s got the goods. Or, rather, he organizes people – including some of the area’s top culinarians – into groups for shares of sustainably raised pigs and cows, which rank at the top of the list for foodie “wants” this year. For people who care about quality and taste, meat from these animals can’t be beat. A 30- to 40-lb share of a pig runs about $120 and a 60-lb share of a cow is roughly $220. “You end up getting some awesome pork for about $3 to $4 per pound and some awesome grass-fed beef for about $3.70 per pound,” McKenzie said. Plus, the gift recipient will be able to meet the producers and their fellow cooks personally.
Handmade, one-of-a-kind tableware | 2 | Handcrafted food tastes best served in handcrafted dinnerware, and the good folks at Craft Alliance have an extensive selection to choose from. Emily Reason produces feminine, wheelthrown pieces that are carved and glazed with naturalistic colors. Jeff Campana’s sensual work (shown) is “revolutionary” according to gallery manager Kris Richards. He “slices the form along elegant lines, completely dissecting [it],” she said. “He then immediately reassembles [the form], leaving these ‘fault lines’ evident.” And local artist Yael Shomroni’s vivid blue casserole dishes or olive oil jugs are beautiful gifts for any art-loving home cook. Craft Alliance, 6640 Delmar Blvd., The Loop, craftalliance.org
High-quality corkscrew | 3 | Every wine lover has various types of openers shoved into various drawers throughout their home. Screwpulls, rabbits, plastic or aluminum waiter’s keys … Replace them all with a classic corkscrew from Laguiole. Each opener is hand-forged and features a handle, whether wood, bone or horn, that feels warm and soft in the hand. The foil cutter has a sharp blade that hearkens back to this famous French company’s long knifeforging history. Laguiole corkscrews can be found online or locally at The Wine & Cheese Place. $82.99, The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com
Starter from an artisan bakery | 4 | 222 Artisan Bakery in Edwardsville is known among the culinary cognoscenti for crafting superior loaves of bread, and now owner-baker Matt Herren is offering 12-oz biodegradable tubs of his starter for five bucks each. Starter, however, is a delicate, living thing. You can only keep it in the fridge for a week before it needs to be “fed,” so if you want to put a gift under the tree, consider asking Herren to send you a gift certificate. The recipient just has to give him a 24-hour heads up before going to the bakery to pick up the fresh starter themselves.
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222 Artisan Bakery, 222 N. Main St., Edwardsville, 222bakery.com
Grow lights for fresh herbs all winter | 5 | Great cooking requires fresh ingredients, and fresh herbs are key players in winter staples ranging from roasts to soups. During the dead of winter, though, fresh herbs can be expensive. Give your favorite cook an LED “light garden” and a selection of potted herbs from Bowood Farms, and they can grow these aromatic culinary staples on their windowsill all winter long. The lights can also be used to start seedlings for next year’s garden. LED light garden, $149.99; Bowood Farms, 4605 Olive St., Central West End, bowoodfarms.com
Inspiration to try a new cuisine | 6 | Many food lovers are excited by new flavors and techniques (and using fun new gadgets), so for the adventurous cook in your life, give the gift of inspiration. Fill a paella pan with packages of saffron and Spanish calasparra rice, or a Portugese cataplana pan with jars of paprika and bay leaves. Wrap a sushi mat around chopsticks, packages of nori and fresh wasabi root. Tagines can be given with a selection of Moroccan ingredients like olives, preserved lemons and dates. Or you can fill a couscoussier (we love the hand-hammered copper couscoussier from WilliamsSonoma) with artisan couscous and ras el hanout, a Moroccan spice blend that often contains more than 30 ingredients.
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Hand-hammered copper couscoussier, $199.95; WilliamsSonoma, multiple locations, williams-sonoma.com Laguiole PHOTOGRAPHY by Laura Miller; Glow panel photography by Geoff Cardin Bread PHOTOGRAPHY: ©iStockphoto.com/ALEAIMAGE
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pull up a chair
FLORENCE KNOLL THREE SEATER BENCH
written by Erin Callier
The mid-century brainchild of architect and designer Florence Knoll Basset, the Florence Knoll Bench is a sleek staple in art galleries the world over. However, the architectural simplicity and versatility of the Florence three-seater can be equally at home tucked beneath a chic dining table where you and yours gather throughout the holidays. $3,711; Design Within Reach, 44 Maryland Plaza, Central West End, dwr.com
Three local designers suggest complementary tables for the iconic bench.
Parzinger Table
“The vintage dark mahogany top, cream colored legs, inlaid band and high style lines of the ‘50s-era Parzinger table would be handsomely complemented by the simple and linear form of the Florence Knoll Bench. The juxtaposition of the two styles highlights the different design elements, while creating a chic cohesion that actualizes a visual appreciation for the difference in the detail.”
Sara Turner, Cure Design Group $12,700; Cure Design Group, curedesigngroup.com
Vulcan Table
“As a pair, the Vulcan table by Brueton and the Florence Bench complement each other in scale, style and finish. Although the base of the table is strong and solid, the reflective nature of the metal mimics the lightness of the bench in a dynamic way. The combination of metal and wood makes this arrangement a definite focal point for a dining area.”
Jane Ganz, Directions In Design Inc. Custom pricing; Directions In Design Inc., 1849 Craig Road, Maryland Heights, didstl.com
Clarges Dining Table
“The Florence Knoll Bench just screams rectangular table, so I selected a very modern, clean-lined dining table that is proportionate to the bench size. A unique leg design and the metal attracted me to the Clarges table. I love simple materials, but I also love pattern. A bench on each side would be wonderful with a chair at each end.”
Wendy Noory, Atom $3,400; Atom, atom-designs.com
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