September 2010 FEAST Magazine

all-access culinary pass

your new go-to ingredient

a new brew in town

Dine in cuba

quince paste

sour beers

/ Inspired Food Culture / Saint Louis /

SEPT. 2010 / FREE

modERn kITChEnS

101

with Rocio Romero

Inspired Food Culture

September 2010

1

E E R F Knife

Sharpening!

From the seasoned chef to a novice cook, it’s essential to take care of your knives.

Now, you can get your knives sharpened for FREE at select Schnucks stores!

Just follow these simple steps: • Pick up a FREE Knife Sharpening sleeve. Limit 3 per visit.

• Bring your knives* (one per sleeve) to Schnucks.

Give to a Meat Department teammate.

• All knives, up to 3 per visit, MUST be transported in a FREE sleeve provided by our Meat Department.

• Your knives will be sharpened and ready for pickup in 24 hours!

CITY City Plaza Gravois Hampton Loughborough

FREE Knife Sharpening is available at the following Schnucks locations: 3431 N. Union Blvd.

7450 Hampton Ave. 60 Hampton Village Plaza 1020 Loughborough

314 381-8789 314 832-3440 314 353-5060 314 752-5333

NORTH Florissant 8200 N. Lindbergh Grandview 74 Grandview Plaza Westfall Plaza 8037 W. Florissant Ave.

314 921-7060 314 838-4540 314 679-2400

WEST Ballwin 15425 Manchester Rd. Bellerive Plaza 12756 Olive Blvd.

636 256-0644 314 434-7323

WEST (cont.)

Brentwood 8800 Manchester Rd. Chesterfield 141 Hilltown Village Ctr. Des Peres 12332 Manchester Rd. Dorsett 2030 Dorsett Rd. Kirkwood 10233 Manchester Rd. Ladue 8867 Ladue Rd. Lindbergh 10275 Clayton Rd. Overland 9074 Overland Plaza Richmond Hts. 6600 Clayton Rd. Twin Oaks 1393 Big Bend Suite 1 University City 6920 Olive Blvd.

Webster Groves 8650 Big Bend

314 961-5454 636 532-2505 314 965-3094 314 434-3147 314 965-7310 314 725-7574 314 991-0510 314 426-3800 314 644-0510 636 225-3777 314 726-2373 314 961-0555

WEST (cont.)

Wildwood Woods Mill

16580 Manchester 1060 Woods Mill Plaza

636 458-5544 636 227-2278

SOUTH Butler Hill Concord Village High Ridge Richardson Telegraph

4333 Butler Hill Rd. 5434 Southfield Center Dr. #20 Gravois Dillon Plaza 3900 Vogel Rd. 5519 Oakville Shop. Ctr.

314 894-1227 314 849-1815 636 677-0061 636 282-3377 314 892-6401

ST.CHARLES COUNTY Cottleville 6083 Mid Rivers Mall Dr. Dardenne 3029 Hwy. K at Hwy. N

636 498-0108 636 240-6868

ST.CHARLES COUNTY (cont.)

Harvester 48 Plaza Ninety-Four Dr. 636 928-1623 Mid Rivers 577 Mid Rivers Mall Dr. 636 970-2570 O’Fallon 8660VeteransMemorialPkwy. 636 978-3566 Wentzville 1960 Wentzville Pkwy.

636 332-8468 Zumbehl 1950 Zumbehl Rd. 636 947-8422 METROILLINOIS Alton 2811 Homer Adams Pkwy.

Collinsville 501 Belt Line Rd. Edwardsville 2222 Troy Rd. Seven Hills 907 East Highway 50 Swansea 2665 N. Illinois St.

618 465-6673 618 345-7661 618 659-0010 618 632-5525 618 236-1414

*Excludes serrated blades and scissors. ©2010 Schnucks

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

3

4

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

AREA'S ONLY EXCLUSIVE CADILLAC DEALER

CADILLAC CTS

CAR & DRIVER TOP TEN

3 YEARS STRAIGHT

SALES - SERVICE - PARTS - COLLISION REPAIR

I-70 Cave Springs Exit • 4190 N. Service Rd. • St. Peters TOLL FREE

1-888-590-0854

www.bommaritocadillac.com

50

Havana’s

Markets are central to culinary scene, ďŹ lling the cityscape with brightly colored produce.

6

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

/ Inspired Food Culture / Saint Louis /

42

A Modern Kitchen

with Rocio Romero

Sept. 2010 from the staff

| 10 |

feaststl.com

Check out this month’s online content!

| 12 |

from the PUBlIsher

Dine around the world without leaving the Lou.

| 14 |

The best steaks in the city – any city.

Making the

CUT

45

feast faVes

This month’s inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis. colUmNs

| 28 |

my stUff

David Bailey crashes at the in-laws’.

| 31 |

gadget a-go-go

We’ve put five basting brushes to the test.

| 32 |

oN the shelf

New and notable in beer, wine, and spirits.

| 34 |

61 SOUR

BEERS

mystery shoPPer

Buy it and try it: quince paste.

| 36 |

the cheat

Sabayon in five minutes flat.

| 38 |

decoNstrUcted dIshes

Explore the ingredients of kofta.

| 74 |

PUll UP a chaIr

The Alodia Counter + Bar Stool and three perfectly paired tables.

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY

Ashley Gieseking

66

THAnk YOU FOR

SMOKING

River City Casino 314.388.7630 JeffRuby.com Not valid for persons on the Missouri Disassociated Persons list or who have been otherwise excluded from Lumière Place, River City or Pinnacle affiliated Casinos. Gambling Problem? Call 1.888.BETSOFF.

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

7

/ Inspired Food Culture / Saint Louis /

Volume 1 / Issue 2 / September 2010

Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville Managing Editor Brandi Wills Art Director Lisa Triefenbach

CommerceOptions Plus rewards you for your SM

entire banking relationship. By combining the balances in your accounts, you’ll enjoy higher rates on savings, discounts on loans, and much more.

Advertising Sales Director Donna Bischoff Copy Editors Kate Boemeke Barbara E. Stefàno

Get started at combinebalances.com.

314-746-8700 No monthly service fee with minimum balances; $12 per month if balances not met. Minimum balances: $5,000 in deposits or $10,000 in combined deposits and loans. Requires $100 minimum opening deposit. ask listen solve and call click come by are trademarks of Commerce Bancshares, Inc. © 2010 COMMERCE BANCSHARES, INC.

Contributing Writers Russ Carr, Shera Dalin, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pat Eby Chad Michael George, Jennifer Johnson, Angela Ortmann Matt Sorrell, Barbara E. Stefàno, Michael Sweeney Cassandra Vires Contributing Photographers Geoff Cardin, Ashley Gieseking, Rob Grimm, Tuan Lee Greg Rannells, Jennifer Silverberg, Carmen Trosser

Contact Us Feast Media 14522 S. Outer Forty Road Town and Country, MO 63107 feastSTL.com Advertising Inquiries Donna Bischoff 314.340.8529 ads@feastSTL.com Editorial Comments editor@feastSTL.com

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com.

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010 by Feast Magazine™.

All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.

A publication of Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC A Lee Enterprises Company

8

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

9

ONLINE CONTENT

ST L .C O M O N L I N E E XC L U S I v E S > T H I S M O N T H ’S F E AST > M U LT I M E D I A VIDEOS slideshows

B LO G > F E AST E v E N T S > R E C I P E S VIRTUAL TOUR. Take an online tour of Rocio Romero’s LV home and stick around for her one-on-one with publisher Catherine Neville.

podcasts

DAY IN THE LIFE. Columnist Pat Eby saves

you a place in line to meet ex-Army cook Ernie Wilson, known as Chef Ernie to the kids at Blessed Sacrament school in Belleville.

TRAVELOGUE. Columnist Heidi Dean explores the food culture of India in a four-part series spanning the month of September. Week 1: fruits and veggies.

ONLINE COLUMN SCHEDULE: MONDAY: Shop Girl Adventuress Heidi Dean takes you inside St. Louis’ hidden culinary gems.

TUEsDAY:

FEAST takes you behind the scenes of the decades-old smokehouse at Annie Gunn’s with chef Lou Rook III. EXCLUSIVE VIDEO.

WEDNEsDAY: Quite the Pair Local wine expert Angela Ortmann visits a different restaurant each week, chooses a stellar dish and peruses the wine list for perfect pairings.

Dinner & a Show In partnership with KDHX 88.1 FM, we bring you each weekend’s must-see concert pick and suggest where to dine before the music begins.

THURsDAY:

FRIDAY:

10

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

Day in the Life

Travelogue

Each meal is an occasion to celebrate at The Gatesworth, where award-winning Executive Chef Brian Hardy and his talented staff create sumptuous dishes that tempt and delight.

Experience our exquisite retirement lifestyle for yourself by calling (314) 372-2288.

at

One McKnight Place

Best Senior Living Community (314) 993-0111

www.thegatesworth.com

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

11

FROM THE PUBLISHER

W

hen FEAST contributor Tuan Lee said he’d be visiting

Havana, Cuba, and asked if we might be interested in

running a story on the city’s culinary culture, my answer

was an enthusiastic yes. Cuba is veiled in such mystery that to be

able to show our readers what real Cuban food and food culture are like – and give you the actual recipes – is a thrill.

One of the most exciting aspects of travel is experiencing the cuisine of another culture. But you don’t have to leave St. Louis to travel the culinary world. Head to Cherokee for a spicy taste of Mexico and try real tacos topped with just a scattering of onions and cilantro. South City is host to numerous Bosnian restaurants where slow-simmered goulash and stuffed cabbage await. Fiery Thai curries beckon on South Grand and the intensely savory flavors of Chinese cuisine can be found up and down Olive Blvd. Africa, Peru, Japan, France, India, Scotland … the St. Louis region is truly

PS

feaST eVeNTS

JOIN ME! Each month, Feast Magazine hosts cooking classes, wine tastings and other events in conjunction with St. Louis’ food industry leaders. Don’t miss your chance to interact directly with these professionals and mingle with your fellow food lovers!

Cooking Demo

a melting pot of culinary traditions. And it’s not just

Wed., Sept. 15, 6:30pm, L’Ecole Culinaire, 314.587.2433

restaurants where you can taste far-flung flavors.

Reserve your spot for a taste of Cuba at this multi-course demonstration class led by associate culinary program director Matt Borchardt. He will show you, step by step, how to make real daiquiris, black bean dip with fried plantain chips, crab fritters, pork loin with mojo criollo and sweet, silky orange flan. Wine will be served throughout the evening’s class while you enjoy the flavors of this island nation.

You can play with unfamiliar ingredients in your own kitchen – there are a number of international and specialty markets sprinkled all over the bi-state region that carry produce and products sure to inspire you to experiment.

Wine Tasting The next time you ask yourself what you’re in the

Thu., Sept. 23, 6pm, Araka Restaurant, rsvp@stlwinegirl.com

Expanding your culinary horizons makes the world a

Enjoy a complimentary wine tasting with columnist Angela Ortmann at Araka Restaurant in Clayton. The wines featured at this tasting will be accompanied by nibbles and tasting notes on each of the wines you sample.

much more flavorful place.

Hands-on Class

mood to have for dinner, push yourself outside your comfort zone and try something totally unfamiliar.

Until next time,

Catherine Neville

Get chopping at this Middle Eastern cooking class and make the savory kofta found on page 38, handmade pitas, baba ghanoush, a cucumber-tomato-onion salad and umm ali, an Egyptian take on bread pudding. The Schnucks Cooks team will lead you through each dish as you eat and drink your way to kitchen prowess. feedback?

catherine@feastSTL.com 12

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

PHOTOGRAPHy By Tuan Lee

Thu., Sept. 30, 6pm, Schnucks Cooks Cooking School, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

$6""/#)$) $6""/#)$)

++>? /##<8EDA1D$ 713E

+

28D 28D H>6 H>6 :I :I 9):8 9):8 J>@) J>@) 5)->< 5)->< LCA< LCA< -- 28><) 28><) '2%( 19 ,*0(!1-%-

5C.= )=*C9

:/-92*7

++

'

75&330/.*+&330 15& 4*(! 430%8

Spooookily gruesome goodies for the perfectly horrific party!

@=9 F/9)

Plus...:DEA? ,E& :10D<"A 1# 4D<%A 1DD<8<#B &EE63$ >?D!;B? :133( 7")-O >68 >6< M)A: 8)E A68 8")<)I: N>8: @><) ? :8><)% 1)NN K>6< '< )?+: C?+ 'C@ NKD /) :" = C?KM")<) ? 8") 02;%

Fine Stationery & Gifts

9773 CLAYTON ROAD • 314.991.1104

DONATING PROFITS TO CHARITY SINCE 1930

Spicy or Mild THEATRE FOR ANY APPETITE! Mainstage 6-show Mainstage Packages start at just $81.00

+*%5'%5& +(*5&' '1$)!07!-,- !3 824$ "6)2/

0./!)

.,*( FD H ?+A)<$" 9N4+D *.(DPP!D,B(B .(BQ. GC?-"):8)< 3+D #*#D*P(D!&..

MMMDC<8 :8 -'CA< -:D->@

Or Create Your Own Package with any 3 or more shows

You Can’t Take It With You September 8 - October 3 High starring Kathleen Turner October 13 - November 7 Over the Tavern December 1 - 26 The Fall of Heaven January 5 - 30 Macbeth February 9 - March 6 Beehive The 60’s Musical March 16 - April 10

Studio Theatre

Mateker’s

3-show Packages start at just $87.00

Next Fall October 27 - November 14 The Year of Magical Thinking January 12 - 30 In The Next Room or the vibrator play March 9 - 27

Meat & Catering

Home of Real Live Butchers,with Old Fashion Butcher Service For over 75 years, The Mateker Family has supplied the St. Louis Area with the Finest in meat, deli and Seafood. In 1995 Mateker’s began to expand their business into the Catering Industry. Each catered Job is a unique exp experience, p which transforms your special hich is unp event into a delicately delicious savor, which unparalleled in the industry today.

Mention this ad and receive ceive 5% OFF of a full service catering job!

Best Seats • Best Prices • Best Benefits It’s not too late to subscribe!

Indulge Today (314) 968-4925

Hot Deli Items Available ailable Mon.-Fri. M 11-6 & Sat. 11-5 Hours: Mon.-Fri. ri 8-6, Sat. 8-5 & Sun. 9-3

11642 CONCORD VILLAGE AVE. PLAZA 111 • 842-4100 Visit us our website: www.matekers.com

High Evan Jonigkeit and Kathleen Turner

www.repstl.org

Single shows also on sale

LIVE THEATRE SO CLOSE

YOU CAN FEEL IT

THE REPERTORY THEATRE OF ST. LOUIS • 130 Edgar Road • St. Louis, Missouri • 63119 Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

13

FEAST FAVES / w here we’re dining

Monarch Restaurant

Monarch was always a very attractive place to indulge in contemporary cuisine, but now, after a well-executed remodel, it’s downright beautiful.

In the main dining room, metal butterflies float above diners feasting on sophisticated fare like pork-stuffed squid with white anchovy toasts, fried frog’s legs with corn-filled hearts of palm or one of the most stunning tomato salads (more of an artful ensemble) we’ve seen. In the bistro, an entirely new Cajun/Creole menu beckons hungry food lovers with boudin balls, praline bacon and gumbo. This dichotomy might not work as seamlessly in a lesser restaurant, but the savvy folks behind Monarch understand how to balance cutting edge with tradition … and do so with impeccable style.

7401 Manchester Road, Maplewood monarchrestaurant.com

14

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

Maplewood

PHOTOGRAPHy by Geoff Cardin

Monarch restaurant

314.644.3995

FEAST FAVES / s e C r e t I n g r e d I e n t FEAST FAVES / s e C r e t I n g r e d I e n t

ESPRESSO

At Nosh in Maplewood, espresso beans are given a new culinary role. After being finely ground, the coffee is used as a rub on blue marlin, which has a “steakier texture” than most fish, according to the restaurant’s chef, Angela Komis. She adds lavender buds to the dish to give a floral character that offsets bitterness imparted by the coffee. The espresso’s acidic edge is further cut when the marlin is grilled. Komis suggests home cooks “experiment with coffee as you would a ground spice. It makes a great rub. Add garlic, chiles … just play around.”

PHOTOGRAPHy By Geoff Cardin

Nosh 7322 Manchester Road, Maplewood 314.647.6966 noshstlouis.com

check it out!

Feast extra

Watch chef Komis demonstrate other delicious, unique uses for coffee at feastSTL.com.

Grilled Blue Marlin

ACERO ITALIAN CHEFS BUY LOCALLY AND COOK ITALIAN. AT ACERO, WE BUY LOCALLY AND COOK ITALIAN. LOCAL PRODUCE LOCAL FARMERS & RANCHERS ITALIAN WINES ACERO. ITALY IN MAPLEWOOD Acero 314-644-1790 The Terrace View 314-436-8855 Liluma 314-361-7771 The Crossing 314-721-7375 WWW.FIALAFOOD.COM

FEAST FAVES / A t h ome

|1|

|2| 314.647.5350 www.lachef.com Sherrill Gonterman & Melissa Sinamon

Great for Healthy Grilling Glazed Chile Lime Chicken Kebobs |3|

• • • •

Yield: 8 kebobs

1 cup lime juice Zest of 3 limes 1/3 cup cilantro, chopped 4 Tbls. olive oil

• • •

2 tsp. jalapeno, minced 1/4 cup sugar 1-1/2 tsp. chili powder

For the marinade, combine above ingredients and whisk until sugar dissolves.

• 2 lbs. chicken breast, boneless pieces • 3 red peppers, cut into chunks • 1 Tbls. paprika • 16 green onions, cut into 3” • Salt & pepper to taste

BURR GRINDERS

| 1 | Krups Black and Stainless Burr Coffee Grinder, $69.95; Starbucks Coffee, multiple location, starbucks.com | 2 | Bodum BISTRO Electric Burr Grinder, $79.99; bodumusa.com | 3 | Capresso Infinity Conical Burr Grinder, $89.99; Chef’s

For kebobs, cut chicken into 1 oz cubes. Thread 2 pieces chicken, 2 peppers and 2 green onions alternately on six-inch skewers. Reserve 1/4 cup marinade. Brush kebobs with remaining marinade, s&p and refrigerate for 30 – 60 minutes. Grill 3 - 4 minutes on each side. Brush with reserved marinade and sprinkle with paprika. Enjoy!! Great with halibut and shrimp.

CATERING & EVENT PLANNERS Specializing in Corporate, Social, Catering To-Go,Weddings and Bar Mitzvahs

Mention this ad for 10%off your next party.

Food And Beverage Expires November 24, 2010

Stop, 1170 W. Gannon Drive, Festus, chefsstop.com Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

15

FEAST FAVES / where we’re dining

E xperience The Private Client Reser ve.

In The Private Client Reserve, we bring together a team of experienced professionals focused on providing creative strategies customized to fit your specific needs and goals. We earn the privilege of being your trusted advisor and guide you financially so you can experience life — beyond the bottom line.

Cheri McLaughlin Wealth Management Consultant Clayton Office 314.505.8047

MAY LOSE VALUE NOT BANK GUARANTEED NOT A DEPOSIT NOT FDIC INSURED NOT INSURED BY ANY FEDERAL GOVERNMENT AGENCY Deposit products offered by U.S. Bank National Association. Member FDIC.

privateclientreserve.usbank.com

www.thepost-dispatchstore.com

City Diner 314.533.7500 Grand Center

UNIQUE TO ST. LOUIS UNIQUELY YOU

PHOTOGRAPHy By Geoff Cardin

The Th he Post Post-Dispatch t Dispatch St Store torre

Athletic team collectibles and apparel

Historical table top books spanning decades – also available in local book stores

Diane Katzman “only in St. Louis” line of jewelry and ornaments

Check us out today!

The ST. LOUIS POST-DISPATCH has been covering St. Louis news since 1878.

The P-D Store brings those historical events, style, and local flavors to life through retail items available only at thepost-dispatchstore.com.

16

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

City Diner City Diner is a longtime favorite and now there’s more to love with the opening of its second location. Situated in the heart of Grand Center, City Diner’s new digs are as well-designed as the food is delicious.

Traditional comfort-food fare like country-fried steak and meatloaf – both served with mashed potatoes and gravy – make you feel like Mom might be in the

At tHe FOX

kitchen. A long list of breakfast options can be had at any time throughout the day. But we’re betting when you slide into one of the Diner’s retro-cool booths, you’ll go for that mid-century classic pair: a big, juicy burger and a creamy, cold shake.

541 N. Grand Ave., Grand Center saucemagazine.com/citydiner

FEAST FAVES / F O O D STUFF

BITE-SIZED BAKED GOODS

HEALTHY, BEAUTIFUL SKIN BioIdentical Hormone Replacement Therapy (BHRT) is now available at St. Louis Skin Solutions with Dr. Amy Miller . Find out how Natural Hormone Replacement can make you feel better, help you obtain healthier skin, and can improve your quality of life.

All Procedures are supervised by an on-site Board Certified Physician, Amy Miller, M.D.

These mini morsels are perfect for passing around at parties or indulging in a single-serving treat.

www.stlouisskin.com

TINY TARTS

ST LOUIS SKIN SOLUTIONS

www.StLouisSkin.com • 314.543.4015 13100 Manchester Rd., Suite 250 Des Peres, MO 63131 Just West of 270 on Manchester

#&"4$ .4$!)2'$ 5%2'&7/2 644 72 /2$ *4)'$, MINI CAKES

Serving St. Louis for over 55 years - +7&' $2( - 3)& ( - 6**47)2'$( - 1$(7!2 - 02(&)44)&7/2

PETIT FOURS

| 1 | Lemon Drop tarts and ganache fruit tarts from Katie Pie’s Pies n’ Pastries, $5-$7 for a box of five tarts; available at the Downtown Tower Grove Farmers’ Market and at Crêpes:etc., 52 Maryland Plaza, Central West End, crepesstl.com | 2 | Carrot cake minis, $1.75 each; Russell’s Café & Bakery, 958 Brookwood Center Plaza, Fenton, russellscafe.com | 3 | Raspberry-white chocolate cheesecake and Key lime cheesecake petit fours, $1.25 each; Pastries of Denmark, 12613 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, pastriesofdenmark.com

.<.71 "*('3$52$8 -%;6 +2; #&/056 "! 9 1..

9 9; 4.;4144 '*,,0$8*(%23&):5&(;'&)

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

17

,A>6 6= 94> J=49 =M> 7"=M; F=M '>9=OO >$ &=9 =49

54O >A9J GA>A$'?'>6D

877=* A6' =& 1**4<A6 =>AO .64( '7 3'$9'' 09=$9A?

Q!!C!)#C+Q!Q

MMMBO'*=O'*4O >A 9'B*=?

.*A> 6"' @A9*=(' M 6" J=49 7?A96 $(* *&( ',(( #!)%"( + +* <"=>' 6= $= ( 9'*6OJ 6= =49 M'@7 6' $** ,% % &(**+&'"!)# 6= 9':4'76 >&=9?A6 =>%

-"' 54O >A9J GA>A$'?'>6 877=* A6'7 =& 1**4<A6 =>AO .64( '7 3'$9'' <9=$9A? *=2'97 ?A>A$'?'>6 =& 6"' @47 >'77D &==( 7A&'6JD ?A9P'6 >$D *476=?'9 7'92 *'D O'$AO 774'7D O'A('97" < 769A6'$ '7 A>( @'2'9A$' ?A>A$'?'>6B

18

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

5'>69AOOJ O=*A6'( > 6"' .6B H=4 7 5=4>6J 74@49@ =& HA(4'D HIE*=O' 54O >A 9' =&&'97 ?A>J '(4*A6 =>AO =<<=964> 6 '7 &=9 6"' *A9''9C? >('( *"'&B .64('>67 'K<'9 '>*' "A>(7C=> O'A9> >$ A>( *A9''9C@A7'( >7694*6 => M 6" <9=&'77 =>AO7 &9=? 6"' .6B H=4 7 *4O >A9J >(4769JB HIE*=O' 54O >A 9' AO7= =&&'97 A>

877=* A6' =& 1**4<A6 =>AO .64( '7 3'$9''7 > 54O >A9J 8967 A>( A>( A 3 <O=?A > 54O >A9J N77'>6 AO7B 5A9''9 <OA*'?'>6 A77 76A>*' 7 A2A OA@O' &=9 764('>67 A>( $9A(4A6'7B L >A>* AO A ( 7 A2A OA@O' &=9 6"=7' M"= :4AO &JB

FEAST FAVES / w hAT we’re drInkIng

The Shandy Typically, a Shandy is a mixture of equal parts beer and carbonated lemonade, but at Fond in Edwardsville, this traditional European cocktail is given an upscale twist. Freshly made lemonade gives the drink a tart edge, while St-Germain liqueur, which is a French liqueur made with elderflower blossoms, adds sweetness and a floral aroma. Schlafly’s medium-bodied lager is the central player in this low-alcohol sipper, offering a fresh, slightly hoppy character. This is a food-friendly cocktail; a great pair with the restaurant’s locavore-centric menu.

Fond 106 N. Main St., Edwardsville fondfinedining.com

The Shandy

By Stephen Cox, FOND

Serves | 1 | 3 oz 1½ oz 1 bottle

lemonade* St-Germain liqueur Schlafly Helles Style Summer Lager lemon wheel for garnish

| Preparation | In a collins glass, pour lemonade, then St-Germain. Finish with beer. Add lemon wheel for garnish.

Fond

* For a single serving of lemonade, mix the juice of 1 lemon with 1 oz simple syrup.

618.656.9001 EdwardsvillE

PHOTOGRAPHy By Geoff Cardin

BOTTLe OPeneRS | 1 | Animal House Shark bottle opener, $7.99; Target, available online only, target.com | 2 | Recycled Bike Chain keychain bottle opener, $8; Phoenix Rising, 6331 Delmar Blvd., The Loop, shopphoenixrising.com | 3 | Pop Top bottle opener, $12; UMA, 1100 Locust St., Downtown, iloveuma.com

|3| |2| |1| Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

19

FEAST FAVES / de S i g n T r e n d S w e L ov e

C O LOR FU L C U B E S Designing with color blocks is so instinctual itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s become a staple of childhood development. (Who doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t love playing with Legos?) Add some grownup fun to your kitchen or dining area with these stylish and sophisticated storage pieces featuring eye-catching colors that are anything but square.

|1|

|2|

| 1 | Eames Storage Unit - 2x2, $1,149; Design Within Reach, 44 Maryland Plaza, Central West End, dwr.com| 2 | Delicious storage system by Mathieu Lehanner, price on request; available through ToolsGalerie, lb@ toolsgalerie.com | 3 | Mshelving credenza, $1,880 as shown; loadbearing.com

|3|

20

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

CI N

TON DAY

NA CI N

MO

DI

N

A RD EDW

N YSO GR A

CO CH O

s of oom at r g n g li v i them aftin n offers n of r c r a fo tio ned d Rothm ur selec g w o n an ices. O cludin re r ality, hill is in cs.

Broy tched qu rdable p an ever, er fabri d o h a r unm kably aff s larger t stom O u r i a C s l e m l u re if ty eaut hill s Broy eds of b r hund

E L AT

!

S E EY

SPEC PER

R U O Y ST

SA TON K C BRO

A E F

E DDL

ES TIV

SO N BRY

SSET A RU Y N TA

LY S

A TAN VAN

G P RI N

F

H AL W T S COA

I ATT

CH

OO E I RL

MS

ITE

ON ER R

CO U

E

T

P

EMI

SP I C

PEC ERS

ES TIV

Hurry!

Offer ends September 15

RT

FREE BONUS

Purchase a Broyhill living room and get a FREE matching ottoman or Broyhill living room table*

LASTING VALUE. TIMELESS DESIGN. ENDURING QUALITY. BROYHILL AT ROTHMAN. MONDAY-SATURDAY 10-8 SUNDAY 12-5

*Living purchase consists of 3-Pc. Sectional or Sofa and 2 additional upholstery pieces. Offer good through 9/15/10, must take delivery of merchandise by 9/30/10, see store for details.

O’FALLON, MO 2101 E. TERRA LANE 636-978-3500

RothmanFurniture.com

SOUTH COUNTY 5711 S. LINDBERGH 314-892-9002

O’FALLON, IL 1776 HWAY. 50 WEST 618-632-1700

DELLWOOD 10132 W. FLORISSANT 314-388-0200

SOUTH SIDE 7737 WATSON RD. 314-968-5595

BALLWIN 14799 MANCHESTER 636-394-1800

Inspired Food Culture

ALTON 3001 WASHINGTON 618-462-9770

SEPTEMBER 2010

21

YOU CAN GET THERE, OR YOU CAN ARRIVE. 2010 CHRYSLER 300 TOURING

STARTING AT $

FEAST FAVES / The DiSh

25,999

STYLE DEFINED.

ALL NEW 2011 JEEP

LEASES START AT $

GRAND CHEROKEE

399

IMMERSE YOURSELF. STARTING AT $

24,699

THE GOOD LIFE

Columbian arepas

*

Oil Changes For Life

15502 Manchester Ellisville, MO

1-866-879-7692

www.royalgatedodge.com *See delaer for details. Prices based on all rebates & incentives through 9/30/10. 300 #C54015, Town & Country #C80093

22

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

Wapango Restaurant 636.536.1151 Chesterfield

Wapango specializes in Pan-Latin cuisine, meaning that its menu offers up an eclectic range of flavors, textures and cooking techniques inspired by the foods found throughout Latin America. One of our favorites is their Columbian arepas. Arepas can take many forms, but corn, or, more frequently, cornmeal, is the base ingredient for this traditional bread-like patty. Whether baked, fried or grilled and either stuffed or topped with any number of ingredients, the arepa is common throughout most Latin cuisines.

pork carnitas. Crumbly, mildly salty queso fresco is scattered atop the pork, which is then drizzled with a slightly sweet chile-orange mojo and Mexican crema. This dish is listed in the small plate section of Wapango’s menu, but with three cakes to an order, it can certainly make a meal, especially when paired with the restaurant’s made-to-order guacamole, which is served with fresh-fried tortillas that come to your table hot, right out of the fryer.

At Wapango, piping-hot, crispy white-corn cakes are topped with black beans and tender, shredded

2020 Chesterfield Mall, Chesterfield wapango.com

PHOTOGRAPHy by Geoff Cardin

2010 CHRYSLER

TOWN & COUNTRY LX

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Ashley Gieseking

FEAST FAVES / s hop-o-matIC

Bertarelli Cutlery

BERTARELLI CUTLERY For 43 years, the Bertarelli family has run a modest but wellregarded kitchen supply and cutlery store on The Hill. Known mainly for their superior knives and sharpening services, the specialty store lends the region’s best chefs, caterers, butchers and home cooks the expertise they depend on to keep the tools of their trade in pristine condition. But beyond the blade, you’ll also find top brands in cookware, small appliances, gadgets and serving accessories to complete your kitchen’s arsenal.

The store itself, like most of its neighboring businesses, is small but substantial, bustling but cozy, utterly professional but pleasantly personal. If you need it, they mostly likely have it; if they don’t, they’ll get it for you. Even if you’re not in the market for new kitchen essentials, a trip to their shop

314.664.4005 The hill

is eye-candy for the culinary soul. Peek over the counter and watch their skilled knife sharpeners work myriad blades to their ideal edge, from the usual kitchen suspects to garden equipment and even chainsaws. And peruse shelves of dream wares, from All-Clad cookware and Le Creuset bakeware to KitchenAid mixers and oodles of handy gadgets.

Next time you’re headed to The Hill for some authentic salsiccia and fresh ricotta, pop into Bertarelli Cutlery and spark up a conversation about your cooking habits. They’re sure to have a knife, a pan or an accessory that will become your new favorite kitchen item.

1927 Marconi Ave., The Hill bertarellicutlery.com

FEAST FAVES / w hat we’re drInkIng

ARgEnTInE MALBECs wRITTEN BY

Jennifer Johnson

September beckons outdoor cooking, and Malbecs from Argentina are dynamite with smoked, grilled and barbecued meats. French in origin, Malbec has been elevated to prominence in Argentina to become an international mainstay after surviving the risk of greedy over-cropping in post-hype years. Fullbodied and tannic, Malbec can compete with its Bordelaise counterparts, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. You will often find characteristics of dark and red fruit as well as ample earth and spice with occasional herbal notes. Argentina consistently produces remarkable examples at great values.

2007 luigi bosca Malbec,

2009 Diseño

single VineyarD Doc

Malbec, olD Vine

Mendoza, Argentina

Mendoza, Argentina

This wine greets you with aromas of baking spices, blackberries and dusty earth, with an ever so slight meatiness reminiscent of applewood bacon. Flavors of plums, black cherries and cocoa predominate, counterbalancing the medium-high tannins. Pair with smoked pork, beef spareribs or lamb shoulder.

Ignore its youth and embrace this big, daring wine and its concentrated aromatic profile of raspberries, coffee, sweet tobacco, violets and flint, followed by currant jam and a black pepper-cedar spiciness on the palate. Pair with pulled pork, beef kebabs or a juicy T-bone steak.

$25; The Wine Barrel, 3828 S. Lindbergh Blvd., Sunset Hills , thewinebarrelstl.com

$13; 33 Wine Shop & Tasting Bar, 1913 Park Ave., Lafayette Square, 33wine.com Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

23

� I will help you plan your party � I have the fastest checkouts in town � I will always offer curbside loading � I have the happiest employees � I have the happiest customers � I offer you 6,700 wines, 900 beers and 1,500 spirits � I believe in “Everyday Low Prices” � If there is anything you don’t like, I will fix it � My name is Gary Bilder, I am the owner.

15921 Manchester Rd. Corner of Clarkson & Manchester

/5: *3!%:64&6 +-87:64 *:8#5-$4 "9 23$: ,3$:6( 0 38346 ' *-.4 ):1:8-7:6

24

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

636-227-4543

www.lukasliquorstl.com

FEAST FAVES / w hat we’re buyIng

RETRO-STYLE APPLIANCES Embrace your inner domestic goddess with these ‘50s-inspired kitchen appliances, all of which come in a variety of color options from mid-century pastels (as shown) to bolder, more contemporary tones.

|1|

| 1 | Big Chill dishwasher in buttercup yellow, $1,695; bigchillfridge.com

| 2 | Smeg refrigerator in pastel green, $1,999; smegusa.com

| 3 | Northstar Retro range in flamingo pink, $4,495; Brefeld Plumbing & Heating Inc., 21 W. Broadway, Trenton, Ill., 618.224.7466

| 4 | TurboChef 30-inch double wall Speedcook oven in ivory, $9,995; Construction Appliance Supply, 1626 Headland Drive, Fenton, ncasco.com

|3| |2|

|4| Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

25

If you struggle with hearing in noisy situations, (such as a busy restaurant, a party or a family gathering) the latest hearing aids with Digital AudioZoom can help you tremendously.

Digital AudioZoom enhances speech understanding in noise with directional microphones it actually zooms in on the speech you want to hear while reducing the noise around you!

And no need to press a button to activate this... it automatically activates when needed; it knows the difference between a quiet and loud listening situation!

Other bothersome sounds are also diminished (fans, motors, engines).

1 (888) 306-8763 Call toll free today to schedule your appointment. Included is: � free hearing screening � free video otoscopic exam � free demonstration of the latest hearing aids featuring Digital AudioZoom � free 7 day trial (no money down) 26

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

� Belleville, IL � Chesterfield �

www.hometown-hearing.com

� Collinsville, IL � Creve Coeur � � Edwardsville, IL � Fairview Heights, IL � � Farmington � Florissant � � Glendale � Shrewsbury � � South County � St. Charles � � Wentzville �

� request a free Hearing Aid Experience DVD � find directions to our 13 locations � meet all of our hearing healthcare providers � research our low hearing aid prices

2010 Volvo S80 3.2 NOW

29,990

$

WAS

0% *OR UP TO

72 MONTHS

40,050

$

Stk. #15654

+!(.(5- 74.( +4 8 &( +!/6 / '48'40 8 9( +!( 3(/,( 4& 7 6* +!/+ ,47(- % +! / "1$(/. %/../6+$2 " $(/.- &/,+4.$ -,!(*)8(* 7/ 6+(6/6,(2 /6* " $(/.- %(/. /6* +(/. ,4'(./#(2 ,4738 7(6+/.$0 +!/+5- %!$ $4) *. '( 46(0 *Includes $2,000 Volvo Owner Loyalty. Special financing available with approved credit. In lieu of $3,000 Volvo allowance. Expires September 30, 2010.

p WEST COUNTY VOLVO u r t n u S #'#<(("<P'9' P99<O%#<#P$"

)%%)9 A6@4GL.-L/ /2;= A6@4GL.-L/= A0

AE..0,/ED. !) +0B+0 2L6BL/ 6@2 B6/JL.- .LBL4-E0@

p VOLVO OF O’FALLON u r t n u S H6/L6. @L*L.- +0B+0 /L-6EBL/F $() 6358 A:NN 27 1&= ?GKI; %9 M GKI; C>

#'#<((O<$999 P##<O9(<'%)"

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

27

MY STUFF

David Bailey has returned to the roost. For the time being, at least. David and his wife, Kara, are happily bunking with Kara’s mom, affectionately known as Mo, while they renovate their new Tower Grove South digs from top to bottom. (Watch for our beforeand-after coverage in an upcoming issue.) David remarked that living at home as been eye-opening, saying, “We are rediscovering the simple pleasures of conversation, family meals and the delights and complexities of food.”

Baileys’ Chocolate Bar 1915 Park Ave., Lafayette Square 314.241.8100 baileyschocolatebar.com

WRITTEN BY Catherine Neville

Favorite after-school snack when you were a kid? Carrots. I’d cut my own carrot “chips” and drink carrot juice. / Favorite off-work nosh now? Cheese. The stinkier the better. / Go-to family dinner?

Locally raised roasted chicken and seasonal roasted vegetables. / Your role in the family meal?

Dave: cook. Kara: dishwasher. Mo: drinking and color commentary. / Favorite beer-drinking nibbles?

Pretzels and mustard / Musthave kitchen gadget? Food mill.

One of the first meals I made for

Rooster crepe. sandwich. cafe.

1104 Locust St., Downtown 314.241.8118 roosterstl.com

Bridge Tap House & Wine Bar 1004 Locust St., Downtown 314.241.8141 thebridgestl.com

Pictured from left to right: Brynne Rinderknecht, Kara Bailey, David Bailey and MaryEllen Picker

28

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

Kara was sweet-potato gnocchi. / Must-have appliance for your new kitchen? Induction cooktop / Dream dinner? Kara, my friends and family and a bunch of local foods. If they happen to be in town, Michael Pollan, Anthony Bourdain, Cat Cora, Terry Gross and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall. / Ideal day off? Sleep in. Lunch at Rooster.

Long walk with Kara. Bloody Marys on the patio at Absolutli Goosed.

Beer and pretzels at Bridge. Dinner at Franco. Mexican chocolate martini at Baileys’.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Greg Rannells

DAVID BAILEY

EVERY CURVE SEDUCES.

Suntrup Buick • GMC

4200 N. Service Rd. • I-70 and Cave Springs • 877.262.8426 • www.suntrupbpg.com Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

29

DAVID ORECK FOUNDER'S DAY SALE

• Most powerful* Oreck upright we make • Quietest Oreck upright ever • Versa-Glide™ true floating head makes it feel like it’s self-propelled • Light Duty Quickwand™ on board for quick pickups • Infinite speed control for heavy messes • Long-lasting Endurolife™ Belt • Includes our best portable vac ever, a $299 value, FREE!

^Dependent on trade-in value and purchase model. *As compared to Oreck products. ©2010 Oreck Holdings, LLC. All rights reserved. Oreck

AT&T introduces data plans starting at $15 a month.

Trade in your old vacuum only at your local Oreck store and get $100 off the NEW Oreck Edge Power Team.

Direct, LLC., 1400 Salem Road, Cookeville, TN 38506. Ad521 DAVID ORECK® FOUNDER’S DAY SALE Offer ends 9/30/10.

Smarter phones.

Smarter plans.

A HEAVY VACUUM ISN'T BETTER, IT'S JUST HEAVY

$100 OFF WITH TRADE-IN

"They're celebrating my birthday at the Oreck store, and you get all the presents!

What a deal!"

David Oreck, Founder.

Brilliant touchscreen Rich Web-browsing

FREE SHIPPING | 1 .8 66.MOBILIT Y – AT T.CO M/ DATA P L A N S – V ISIT A S TORE Coverage not available in all areas. See coverage map at stores for details. Smartphone Data Plan Requirement: Smartphone requires minimum DataPlus (200MB); $15 will automatically be charged for each additional 200MB provided on DataPlus if initial 200MB is exceeded. All data, including overages, must be used in the billing period in which the allowance is provided or be forfeited.

For more details on data plans, go to att.com/dataplans. BlackBerry,® RIM,® Research In Motion,® SureType,® SurePress™ and related trademarks, names and logos are the property of Research In Motion Limited and are registered and/or used in the U.S. and countries around the world. Used under license from Research In Motion Limited. ©2010 AT&T Intellectual Property. Service provided

by AT&T Mobility. All rights reserved. AT&T and the AT&T logo are trademarks of AT&T Intellectual Property. All other marks contained herein are the property of their respective owners.

30

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

www.oreckstore.com/stl ALL STORES ARE PROUDLY LOCALLY OWNED AND OPERATED

7 ST. LOUIS METRO AREA LOCATIONS

MANCHESTER ............... Manchester Rd. E/141 across from Starbucks ... 636-391-8600 SUNSET HILLS .............. Lindbergh & Watson near Home Depot .............. 314-821-5066 LADUE.......................... Ladue Rd. & 1-170 next to Maggie Moos ........... 314-726-5505 ST. PETERS................... 94 & Mid Rivers Mall Dr./94 Crossing ................ 636-928-9474 CHESTERFIELD VALLEY ..... Chesterfield Commons Near Lowe's .................. 636-519-8400 FENTON........................ Gravois Bluffs/behind Walgreens ...................... 636-326-9972 SWANSEA..................... Rte.159/1 Blk. S. of Outback Steak House ......... 618-235-1969

gadget a-go-go

Put to the test

©iStOCkPHOtO.COM/FreezeFrAMeStudiO

BASTING

BRUSHES written by Pat Eby

Culinary-style silicone Brush 2-in-1 Brush Pros

One brush, two heads. natural boar bristles produced even coverage with thin sauces and butters. the nicely balanced head rotated to silicone for basting vegetables and meats. the head snapped from the handle for easy cleanup.

Progressive Barbecue sauce Mop

Pros

Good looks. A polka-dotted lime green handle and fat yellow bristles made the A-list for parties. Olive oil on crostini and a butter-brandy glaze for stuffed mushrooms smoothed on quick and thick. no second passes needed. Color choice, red or green, kept the meat brush separate from the veggie brush. the head twists off. both handle and head will survive the dishwasher, too.

Cons

Handwashing caused some of the natural bristles to drop from the ferrule. the flat silicone side didn’t hold as much sauce as others that were tested. the stainless steel handle heated up on the stovetop. $9.95; Crate and Barrel, 1 The Boulevard , Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.com

Cons

the short handle makes it tough to use at the grill without singeing forearms. $6; Pier 1 Imports, multiple locations, pier1.com

oxo good grips silicone Basting Brush Pros

Functionality in design stood out.

Sturdier strips of silicone aerated with holes at the center and surrounded on each side by finer bristles held more sauce. the soft handle provides a cushy grip. Spreading sauce went easy on the wrists thanks to the bent-angled design of the head. Put this brush down and it won’t kiss the counter, either.

Cons

the center bristles dragged on soft dough when butter-basting yeast rolls.

Lightening the pressure eliminated the problem.

Pros

the perfect tool for slopping chickens, rib slabs and plenty-thick pork steaks with gallons of sauce. A-plus design. the mop, a rectangle of silicone cut and shaped to fold into loops, levers in and out of the stainless steel shaft. the grip’s silicone, too. Head comes off for easy cleaning. the sweet spot? A bottle opener at the end of a long handle. One brush, where the mechanics and the zen of grilling meet.

Cons

A one-trick pony, too big for basting meats indoors. but what a trick. the most fun brush of the bunch. $16.95; Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, kitchencopia.com

$12.95; Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, kitchenconservatory.com

durable silicone Basting Brush Pros

Value and versatility in one brush. the great oval shape and density held thicker sauces well and didn’t drip the fruit and butter bastes, either. the long-enough bamboo handle transitioned well indoors and at the grill. Available in red, green or white; buying three would keep crosscontamination at a minimum.

Cons

the bamboo handle seemed a little skinny for a comfortable grip. At the grill, keep it on a side table, safe from flare-ups. $7.99; Whole Foods Market, multiple locations, wholefoodsmarket.com

Chec k out

Materials: Silicone brushes offer great heat tolerance, flexibility, stain resistance and easy cleanup. the ends don’t fuse or clump like nylon can, even in the high heat of the grill. bristles won’t migrate into the food, either, as sometimes happens with natural bristles.

Functionality: Match brush selection to the cooking task.

Medium and large brushes work well for hamburgers, chicken and vegetables. the mop makes quick work of slapping steaks,

ribs and chicken halves with beaucoup barbecue. Smaller, flexible brushes add butter to stuffed mushrooms and move smoothly over bread dough. easy Cleanup: new brushes, both silicone and the 2-in-1 with natural bristles, snap apart for cleaning. Silicone can cycle through the dishwasher, too. even handwashing the silicone brushes will roust crusted sauce and sloughed butter with ease.

page

70!

W hat to l oo k For :

Try one of these brushes when grilling chef Lou Rook III’s smoked beef tenderloin.

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

31

ON The SheLf

BEER written by Michael Sweeney

When not using his spare time to make fun of people who write blogs, Michael Sweeney writes the beer blog STLHops.com. The irony is lost on him.

Amalgamated Brewing Co. Tallgrass Brewing Co. Buffalo Sweat Zoigl Style: Zoigl (5% abv)

Style: Sweet Stout (5% abv)

AvAilAble At: The Stable, 1821 Cherokee St., Benton Park, thestablestl.com; $5 (16-oz draught)

AvAilAble At: Lukas Liquor, 15921 Manchester Road, Ellisville, lukasliquor.com; $7.99 (four-pack 16-oz cans)

if you’ve never heard of a Zoigl before, you’re in good company. A Zoigl isn’t actually a style of beer as much as it is a German tradition. A group of people would brew up a community batch of wort (unfermented beer) and then each person would take their share home to ferment. Amalgamated’s Zoigl is a crisp, easy drinking lager that provides plenty of malt in the flavor and a slight citrus aroma in the nose.

Don’t be afraid of dark beer! So often people will associate a dark beer with a “heavy” beer. tallgrass’s buffalo Sweat has a lighter body than many people may be used to in a stout, but that makes it the perfect beer as we transition from summer to fall. this beer is slightly sweet, but has a robust coffee flavor.

PAiringS: Chocolate cake / Fresh fruit tart

Lagunitas Brewing Co. A Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ Ale Style: American Wheat (7.3% abv) AvAilAble At: 33 Wine Shop and Tasting Bar, 1913 Park Ave., Lafayette Square, 33wine.com; $10 (six-pack)

A comment i hear very often is, “i’m not really into wheat beers.” Some beer drinkers just expect more out of their beer; they want something a bit bolder. Lagunitas’s A Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ provides just that. the aroma reminds you of a hefty iPA, but the bitterness is kept rather low, resulting in a very refreshing beer.

PAiringS: Pho / Carnitas / Fontina cheese

PAiringS: Gumbo / Jerk chicken pizza

What’s on the shelf sePteMBeR WINE written by Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann gained a passion for all things epicurean by working in the luxury restaurants and hotels of St. Louis and San Francisco. Through her event and consultation business, she is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.

Join angela ortmann and feast publisher Catherine neville for a happy hour wine tasting on thu., sept. 23, at 6pm at araka Restaurant.

RsVP by emailing rsvp@stlwinegirl.com.

32

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

2009 Leitz “Leitz Out”

2009 Zestos Blanco

ProvenAnce: Rheingau, Germany

ProvenAnce: Spain

AvAilAble At: Provisions Gourmet Market, 11615 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, provisionsmarket.com; $11.99

AvAilAble At: Wines of Wildwood, 2418 Taylor Road, Wildwood, winesofwildwood. com; $11.99

it’s not sweet, it’s not dry. with aromas of ripe citrus and lively acidity, this versatile wine is doing what German riesling does best. it is a sipping wine that also pairs well with food and will still carry into the holidays. enjoy this wine outdoors on an indian summer night or paired with any number of spicy Asian dishes.

Despite its name, this wine is not a blend, it's 100 percent Malvar. never heard of it? that’s OK, most of us haven’t. no bother; concentrate on its full-bodied tropical fruit flavors. this wine sees no oak so it maintains a vibrant acidity and a clean finish. Fans of unoaked Chardonnay will truly enjoy this fresh alternative.

Food PAiringS: Effortless – Prosciuttowrapped melon / Dine Out & Delivery – Curry / Special Occasion – Ginger-lime shrimp

Food PAiringS: Effortless – Fruit-based salsas / Dine Out & Delivery – Crab cakes / Special Occasion – Teriyaki chicken with pineapple

2008 Maysara 3 Degrees Pinot Noir ProvenAnce: McMinnville, Oregon AvAilAble At: Starr’s Market, 1135 S. Big Bend Blvd., Richmond Heights, starrs1.com; $16.99

From the youngest female winemaking team in the U.S. comes this certified biodynamically grown Pinot noir. Flavors of cherry, pomegranate and fresh nutmeg are rounded out with elegant tannins and fine structure. this young wine – it could benefit from decanting – is drinkable now, but will continue to evolve over the next few years.

Food PAiringS: Effortless – Brie / Dine Out & Delivery – Bacon cheeseburger / Special Occasion – Duck and wild mushroom risotto

SPIRITS written by Chad Michael George

Chad Michael George is an award-winning sommelier and mixologist, born and raised in St. Louis. He is the founder of the Proof Academy, which covers all things wine and spirits related, from wine and cocktail list consulting to detailed spirits and mixology education for the hospitality industry and the general public.

GET CHAD’S RECIPES ON THE WEB feastStl.com

Maker’s Mark 46 (47% abv) Provenance: Loretto, Kentucky available at: The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com; $35

the first new product from Maker’s Mark in over 50 years, the “46” gets some extra oak treatment before bottling via French oak staves placed in the barrel for roughly nine weeks. this process gives the bottling an extra hint of caramel, vanilla and cinnamon.

All the flavor hits you right in the middle of your tongue, a point of pride for the distiller. this is a must have for any bourbon drinker.

Quantities are limited. try it neat or on a few rocks, if you please.

Corrido Añejo Single Barrel Tequila (40% abv) Provenance: Jalisco, Mexico available at: The Wine and Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $48

Finally, some fairly priced, smaller production tequilas are making it to our market. this Añejo, aged 18 months, is the best of the Corrido lineup. it has a deliciously smooth, warm mouth feel. there are strong notes of toasty caramel and butter, the Los Altos Highlands trademark pepper and a hint of chocolate. this is a whiskey lover’s tequila at a great price.

Cocchi Americano Apertivo (16.5% abv) Provenance: Asti, Italy available at: Lukas Liquor, 15921 Manchester Road, Ellisville, lukasliquor.com; $23

this italian aperitif has been in production since 1891, but just recently made it to our fair city. its life begins as a muscato d’asti – this region is known for producing some of the best. the wine is then infused with a blend of fruit and herbs, including bitter orange and gentian roots. think Lillet blanc but more bitter. Some will enjoy this on the rocks. Others will find a home for it in the classics that used to call for Kina Lillet, which no longer exists.

We have an impressive selection ofthe bestwines fromyour Missouri & Illinoiswineries including MountPleasant, Stone Hill, St.James, CrownValley, Hermannhof, Illinois Cellars,Augusta and Montellewines. We offer discounts on case purchases aswell as acceptyourspecial orders -All atsignature Shop ’n Save Prices!

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

33

mySTery Shopper

rosemary Quince Glazed Chicken

BY PaM sMith, YOUR HOMe BISTRO PeRSOnAL CHeF SeRVICe

Serves | 4 | 4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves ¼ cup flour salt and freshly ground pepper 2 Tbsp butter 2 Tbsp olive oil ½ cup finely diced onion 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 cup chicken broth 1 cup dry white wine 1 Tbsp Dijon mustard juice and zest of 1 large lemon 2 Tbsp minced fresh rosemary 4 oz quince paste, thinly sliced 2 Tbsp sliced toasted almonds

| Preparation | Pound chicken breast to create an

even thickness. wash and pat dry with paper towels.

Combine flour with salt and pepper to taste. Dredge chicken in flour.

Heat butter and olive oil over medium-high heat in a skillet just large enough to hold chicken in one layer without overlapping. Add chicken and brown on both sides. Remove chicken from pan.

Add onion and sauté until translucent. Add garlic and sauté briefly.

Deglaze pan with broth and wine. Add Dijon mustard, lemon juice, zest and rosemary.

Bring liquid to a simmer and add the sliced quince paste. Simmer and stir until the quince paste melts.

Return chicken to the pan. Turn to coat with sauce.

Reduce heat, cover and cook until sauce is thick and chicken is cooked, about 15 to 20 minutes. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper.

Serve chicken with sauce and top with toasted almonds.

meeT: Quince PasTe wRITTen BY Shera Dalin

are under-utilized. Most refrigerators contain at least one type of preserved, sweetened fruit, but it typically ends up on Junior’s PB&J. These condiments, however, can be used to add sweet nuance to many

What is it?

Related to apples and pears, the fuzzy, yellow quince was once a staple of the Colonial American fruit basket.

But these days, quince trees don’t fare well in American orchards because of disease, so you’re not likely to find fresh quince in your local grocery store. Instead, reach for a jar of quince paste to add the fruit’s delicate apple-pear flavor to your home cooking.

The fruit’s hard, bitter flesh sweetens and turns a rosy shade when cooked and made into a paste. Quince paste, also referred to as membrillo, is commonly used in Spain, where tapas restaurants serve squares of manchego cheese topped with a square of quince paste and speared with a toothpick. The combination of savory, salty cheese

and sweet quince complement each other well. You can find similar presentations locally at tapas restaurants and on cheese boards throughout the St. Louis area. hoW do i use it?

Add quince paste to your next cheese presentation alongside a variety of nuts. You can also use quince paste as a spread on sandwiches, as a filling in pastries or as a flavoring element for main dishes. Some forms of the paste have a smooth texture and others have a grainy feel.

It cooks beautifully as a sweet counterpoint to meats; try adding it to compotes and pan sauces to enhance the flavor of pork. It also combines well with cream cheese in either a spread or a filling.

dishes, and one in particular to try is quince paste.

34

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

check it out!

FeaST exTra

Stop by Straub’s to pick up more delicious recipes featuring quince paste.

Visit straubs.com for information on their four locations.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Carmen Troesser

Jams, jellies and fruit pastes

E

AD

M CAN

Hundreds of Styles and Fabrics Usually within Three Weeks!

ERI

AM

E>++C) HFQJ %@' J%HFL %@

,=(>G OL6 %@ J%HFL %@ JF2 %@

.=+G? HFQJ %@' OL6 %@

(*<>)C(

K22QA

0%LH6QJ 3QQH62MJ QDQ2HJ

J%HFL %@ ; JF2 %@ I)=+G? World’s Largest Chair Manufacturer South County • Concord Plaza • 314-842-9922

AUGUST CLEARANCE

SALE! Shop Now

We still have a great selection

O1L !$'!!$

(*<>)C(

#P#N J1FH7 #5H7 JHLQQH 76JH1L6" 4%O%@QHHQ J/F%LQ :R#P9 58N-RN!!

LQJH%FL%2H BBB&J/B6LQJ&"13

Suntrup West County BMW www.suntrupbmw.com

636-227-5454

The Ultimate Driving Machine®

2(;&=;?A>,( >=M : 3> :" >$ -R L(A;: A"(A* =& 8"( ,=?<(8 8 =>C PC C;"(? ,H? D ;"( [C?]* "H= F((D DHE(* CD( C& ;"( -G <(=; FW :H? HD* 8? 7(? &C? HD H=;CD =" D$ -a W(H?= D H ?C[I PC ,H?K ;"H; =K C;"(? ;"HD ;"( <Q/ ) 2(? (=I / ;" A?H =(= =9," H= B[ D$J&CC;(* $C*K@ BX(?EHD ,H]]W A?(, =(K@ B*(] $";&9]]W =ECC;"@ HD* B$C]* =;HD*H?*K@ ;"( ) 2(? (= "H=K W(H? H&;(?

ellas Umbr $ 79 from

W(H?K $H?D(?(* EC?( ,CD; D9C9= A?H =( ;"HD HDW C;"(? ]9Y9?W ,H?I >** ;"( &H,; ;"H; ;"( ) 2(? (= =(*HD [H= DHE(* H +GG` B1CA 2H&(;W 4 ,_@L FW ;"( TD=9?HD,( TD=; ;9;( &C? U $"[HW 2H&(;WK HD* WC9 "H7( (7(D EC?( ?(H=CD ;C ,CD= *(?I 2(;&=;?A>,( >=M : 8"( ) 1(; (:C

See Our Bargain Area for In-Season Clearance/Closeouts First Come, First Served!

All FireMagic™ Stainless Steel Gas Grills Reduced!

Pre-Season Savings on Gas Logs, Inserts and Fireplaces!

Quality Since 1871

of St. Louis, Inc.®

0I

2AL >=8" >$C ' L(A;:B%@E@@@ ? N(:C 0"( ?=:8 ,=?<;("(>: 4( ?A >8(>A>,( <NA> H >,N6* >$ M(A;DA>*D8(A; 8(?:G > 8: ,NA::CK :=DV( 4D*;T XC

:=DV( 3?9?=;T XC

P @CQ .E.UHH -CQP 3>A>, >$ FF A<; &=; 6< 8= +'

?=>8": MCAC,C => :(N(,8 ?=*(N:

<43 P @D@, =; @$ <** 9 ?@DSA<; ?&&(= *(9D 3>A>, >$S; ,D@ FF &=; &?SS?Q "(=(EHH6< 8= #@

There’s no other store like 825 South Lindbergh 314-993-5570

9I. /N8 ?A8( 1(;4 ,(

Mon.-Wed.-Thurs.-Sat. 10:00-5:30 Tues.-Fri. 10:00-8:00 Sun. 12:00-5:00 www.forshaws.com

?=>8": K?Q 9"=?7$" 6<1R NR3R MCAC,C => :(N(,8 ?=*(N:

R@$ @( :(S9;T XC

5 S 8"D@$(;T XC

/ >(= :SD*( M@;(=9;T XC

Suntrup

"$%'$# & !

-+)' LD @ 29E <@O9?Q@G 02 WY!#% JWY!I #%'F)+-C QQQE*(DS(=BAQE,?A

"$%'$# & !

-+)' LD @ 29E <@O9?Q@G 02 WY!#% JWY!I #%'F)+-C QQQE*(DS(=BAQE,?A

"$%'$# & !

-+)' LD @ 29E <@O9?Q@G 02 WY!#% JWY!I #%'F)+-C QQQE*(DS(=BAQE,?A

"$%'$# & !

-+)' LD @ 29E <@O9?Q@G 02 WY!#% JWY!I #%'F)+-C QQQE*(DS(=BAQE,?A

"$%'$# & !

-+)' LD @ 29E <@O9?Q@G 02 WY!#% JWY!I #%'F)+-C QQQE*(DS(=BAQE,?A

"$%'$# & !

-+)' LD @ 29E <@O9?Q@G 02 WY!#% JWY!I #%'F)+-C QQQE*(DS(=BAQE,?A

.(:8 7=6>8L 9I. J=?( =& 0"( /N8 ?A8( 5; 4 >$ IA," >(C

2,"(*7S(* M@;>(,9 ?@T XC

"$%'$# & ! "$%'$# & !

-+)' LD @ 29E -+)' LD @ 29E 1A86;*AL :(;4 ,(<@O9?Q@G A>* <A;8: *(<8C 02 WY!#% <@O9?Q@G 02 WY!#% 8= 'O@@ <? #%'F)+-C JWY!I #%'F)+-C=<(> !O)@ A?JWY!I QQQE*(DS(=BAQE,?A QQQE*(DS(=BAQE,?A

-''-! QHD,"(=;(?

3*IK "$%'$# & !

-+)' LD @ 29EC& -'QHD,"(=;(?K Q6 S9=; [(=; <@O9?Q@G 02 WY!#% #)#J++!J%'%' ;C]] &?((^ -DR@@DQ#+D'+'' JWY!I #%'F)+-C "$%'$# & !

-+)' LD @ 29E <@O9?Q@G 02 WY!#% JWY!I #%'F)+-C QQQE*(DS(=BAQE,?A

QQQE*(DS(=BAQE,?A

K?Q 9"=?7$" 2(>9(AB(= )CG +C-C L1CA 2H&(;W 4 ,_ = &C? ;"( ) 2(? (= =(*HD CD]WI LLTD ] (9 C& =A(, H] 5DHD, D$ E9=; 5DHD,( ;"?9 <Q/ 5DHD, H] =(?7 ,(=I :CD;H,; WC9? ]C,H] <Q/ ,(D;(? &C? L1CA 2H&(;W 4 ,_ = &C? ;"( ) 2(? (= =(*HD CD]WI LLR\X>R <\ <Q/= 048>1\8 16 :6638TP>1\ /T1U 1U\ :033\P1 6ZZ\3I HD* ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ......

AH?; ,L1CA AH;2H&(;W D$ *(;H= &C? ]= ;"( HD* 7(" ,](...

H7H ]HF ]Q021 ;WI >]] ,CE( [...... ;" ;"?9 <Q/ QH D;(DHD,( /H??HD;W =;HD*H?* &C? '......

W(H?= C? %GKGGG E ](=K ["...... ,"(7(?

C,,9?= 4 ,_...... ) 2(?...... (= =(*HD CD]WI LLTD ]......

(9 C& =A(, H] 5DHD, D$K ......

E9=; 5DHD,( <Q/ 5DHD, H] =(?7 ,(=I :CD;H,; ]C,H] <Q/ ... :(D;(? &C? AH?; , AH;......

CD *(;H...... ]= HD* 7(" ,]( H7H ]HF] ];WI ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ... ...... ...... ...... ...... WC9? ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ... V>]] <Q/= ,CE( 5?=;I [3CH*= *(D;(DHD,( >== =;HD,( ,CE(= =;HD*H?* &C? 'E ](=K W(H?=I <Q/ =; 2H&(;W 4]HD ,CE(= &C?>=='=;W(H?= CD,CE(= (7(?W QO&C?+GG! HD* ]H;(? %K HD* # HD* 2(? (= ;" <Q/ QH HD* /H??HD;W =;HD*H?* &C? ' W(H?= C? %GKGGG [" ,"(7(?

C,,9?=>== 5?=;I 3CH*= *( >== =;HD,( ,CE(= =;HD*H?*=;HD*H?* &C? ' W(H?=I <Q/ 2H&(;W 4]HD =;HD*H?* ' W(H?= CD (7(?W QO +GG! ]H;(? %K ! # HD* ! 2(?HD* (= 7(" = ,](H7H HD* =]HF]( H7H ]HF]( HD CA; CD C?CD [ ;"C? ;"([ A?(E AH,_H$( CD H]] C;"(? EC*(]=I 1(](2(?7 ,( HD* 3(EC;( 8CC? 0D]C,_ H?( H7H ]HF]( CD H]] +GG! HD* ]H;(? 8CC? EC*(]= [ ;" <Q/ >== =; (Y,(A; ;"( M'CD HD*H]] .)I +GG! 2(( ;"( 2(?7 ,( ]H;(?

7(" ,]( H=H= HD CA; ;"9E A?(E 9E AH,_H$( CD H]] C;"(?

EC*(]=I 1(](2(?7 ,( HD* 3(EC;( 0D]C,_ H?( H7H &C? ]HF]( HD* HD* /H??HD;W D&C?EH; CD FCC_](; &C? EC?( *(;H ]= HD* =A(, 5, ;(?E=K ,CD* ; CD= HD* ] E ;H; CD=I N+GG` <Q/ C& PC?;" >E(? ,HK RR:I 1"( <Q/ DHE(K EC*(] DHE(= HD* ]C$C H?( ?($ =;(?(* ;?H*(EH?_=I EC*(]= [ ;" <Q/ >== =; (Y,(A; &C? ;"( M' HD* .)I 2(( ;"( 2(?7 ,( HD* /H??HD;W D&C?EH; CD FCC_](; &C? EC?( *(;H ]= HD* =A(, 5, ;(?E=K ,CD* ; CD= HD* ] E ;H; CD=I N+GG` <Q/ C& PC?;" >E(? ,HK RR:I 1"( <Q/ DHE(K EC*(] DHE(= HD* ]C$C H?( ?($ =;(?(* ;?H*(EH?_=I

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

35

The cheaT

Sabayon STORY AND RECIPE BY Cassandra Vires

The Italians call it zabaglione. In Columbia it’s sabajón. And in Uruguay it’s called sambayón. Most believe the Italians actually invented this creamy, light, custard-like dessert in the 16th century, but it is the French, who declare it to be sabayon, who have truly mastered the dish. No matter how it is pronounced, it is easy to agree it is delicious, but many find it difficult to make.

Just as the name differs from country to country, so do recipes, but the base is always the same: egg yolks, sugar and some type of liquid. The liquid is where recipes vary. Marsala wine, Champagne or brandy are most frequently used, but there are non-alcoholic variations using juice or even water.

As with all custards, the challenge is to cook the yolks properly without making, well, scrambled eggs.

In a standard sabayon recipe, yolks are whisked with sugar in a double boiler for about 20 minutes to gradually cook them. The increase in temperature should be in increments of no more than 10°F, gradually building to a finished temperature of 176°F. The cooking of the egg yolks is actually what thickens the dish, so it’s critical to get this step right.

As you slowly heat yolks, their volume expands and density lightens. Add cream and call it custard. In sabayon, however, there is no cream, which technically makes it a caudle, a term rarely used in modern cooking that means a warm, wine-fortified drink. Once the sabayon base is properly made, it is simple to add whipped egg whites, whipped cream or even mascarpone to make a light and airy mousse.

There is a way around all that careful whisking, though, so you can happily incorporate this lovely dessert into your cooking repertoire.

Sabayon is great for dressing up cakes, fresh fruit or, as in this recipe, delicious, harvest-fresh, roasted figs. With this “cheat,” all you need is a blender and, start to finish, less than five minutes.

Egg whites are incorporated into this recipe to not only provide stability, but also add an airiness that mimics the density change yolks experience during the cooking process in typical recipes.

It’s interesting to note that originally, sabayon wasn’t cooked at all. Over the years, people became worried about raw eggs and discovered the change in texture when cooking. This recipe falls somewhere in the middle, actually making it more traditional.

Cassandra Vires is the executive chef and manager of Ernesto’s Winebar in Benton Park. She received her culinary training in Houston, Texas, and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes.

36

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

Watch our step-by-step online video feastSTL .com

Quick Sauternes Sabayon with Honey Roasted Figs This dish relies heavily on the seasonality of the fruit. If fresh figs aren’t available, substitute whatever fruits are – peaches, plums, cherries, nectarines, apricots, apples and pears are all appropriate substitutes.

Serves | 8 to 10 | 1 cup 5 ½ cup 12 1 Tbsp 3 Tbsp

Sauternes, or other dessert wine whole eggs, separated white sugar fresh green or black figs unsalted butter, room temperature clover honey kosher salt, as needed hazelnuts, shelled and toasted

While the Sauternes is heating, place egg yolks and sugar in a blender and mix on high speed for 30 seconds. | 1 | Using the top feed tube, slowly add heated wine while the motor is running. Let mix for another 30 seconds.

Again using the top feed tube, slowly add the egg whites and mix for 60 seconds or until frothy.

| Preparation | Preheat oven to

Transfer sabayon to a serving dish and place in fridge while roasting figs.

350°F. Place Sauternes in a small sauce pan and bring to a simmer.

| 2 | Remove the stems from the

figs and halve lengthwise. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and spread softened butter on top of parchment. Place figs in the lined pan, cut side up, and drizzle with honey. Lightly sprinkle with salt.

| 3 | Place in oven and bake for 5 to 7 minutes, or until figs soften and honey starts to brown.

Transfer warm figs to dessert plates and drizzle with sabayon. Garnish with toasted hazelnuts and serve immediately.

.37=$C ;""!

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

-@G#7 D<? 6@=B >3B%+6"+.37G 8#@$<#7B -""7B :G#= G) AG3#@ :3B 0GEE% 935G??G

@CE ( 4' &<$;>EA 7;A #""7<$B ,58E( 2. &<$;>EA 9EC:EA( *

|1|

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

PHOTOGRAPHY bY Jennifer Silverberg

|2|

=5#? AEC:<$B( 53";> 42' #57"C<EA+ 66 B >">57 D5> 1. B A5>;C5>E!/+ 0' &B #?"7EA>EC"7+ 6.' &B A"!<;&+ 2- B #5C3"?%!C5>E+ 2 B D<3EC+ 2 B C">E<$)

1=B=? '''*B#@$<#7B#""7B*#"&

F"E 8#@$<#7B -""7B 5"#3?="$B, EG#= GB, "<E &"$?@5% $G'B5G??GE 3$! &"EG) ©2010 Schnucks

|3| Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

37

DECONSTRUCTED DISHES

KOFTA

Coriander

WRITTEN BY Gabrielle DeMichele RECIPE BY Gabrielle DeMichele, Nate Bonner and Lucy Schnuck

Kofta is a Middle Eastern or South Asian meatball or meatloaf that is sometimes referred to as kefta. In its popular form, koftas are made of minced or ground meat, most often lamb or beef, and lots of spices. It is sometimes mixed with rice, bulgur or eggs to form a ball and can be made with fish or vegetables for variety and preference. Although not eaten on a stick, it is often grilled or baked on flat skewers. We have taken liberties with this recipe to make it a loose filling, fragrant with exotic spices and quick to prepare.

Cinnamon

Gabrielle De Michele, Nate Bonner and Lucy Schnuck are part of the Schnucks Cooks Cooking School team. They work together to formulate original recipes, brainstorming the best ingredients, methods and techniques to employ when teaching classes at the Des Peres Schnucks location.

Kofta Serves | 6 to 8 | 1 Tbsp 1 4 to 6 cloves ½ lb ½ lb ½ lb ½ lb 1½ tsp 1 tsp 1½ Tbsp 1 tsp 1 Tbsp 1 pinch

canola oil large Vidalia onion, diced garlic, sliced ground lamb ground pork ground beef ground veal Korintje cinnamon ground coriander cumin, plus more to taste curry powder sweet paprika sugar salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

| Preparation | Preheat a large skillet over medium heat, then add the oil.

When the oil starts to shimmer, add the onion and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the sliced garlic and heat through, for 1 minute. Add all the meat to the pan and sauté until brown. Drain off all of the fat and add the cinnamon, coriander, cumin, curry and paprika. Heat through for another 2 minutes or until thoroughly cooked and fragrant. Add salt and pepper to taste and serve.

Serve with split pitas, filling the pita with the kofta mixture, a chiffonade of lettuce, chopped tomatoes and tahini sauce (recipe follows). Visit feastSTL.com for an exclusive handmade pita recipe.

TAHINI SAUCE

1 cup 1 cup 2 cloves 3 1¼ tsp 1 pinch

38

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

tahini * Greek yogurt juice of 1 lemon garlic, chopped scallions, thinly sliced kosher salt, plus more as needed cayenne pepper

| Preparation | Put all the ingredients in a large bowl and mix together well.

Taste for seasoning and correct if necessary. Chill until ready to serve. * Tahini is a jarred sesame-seed paste available at most grocery stores.

Get hands-on with Gabrielle DeMichele and FEAST publisher Catherine Neville on Thu., Sept. 30. Learn to make kofta with homemade pita and tahini sauce; baba ganoush; cucumber, mint and tomato salad; and umm ali, an Egyptian bread pudding.

Coriander is an aromatic Eurasian herb in the parsley family, which we know as cilantro. The seedlike fruit of this plant is known as coriander and is used whole or ground.

JOIN US! RSVP: SCHNUCKSCOOKS.COM OR ���.���.����

Cinnamon is the inner bark of a tropical evergreen tree, which is pliable when harvested but dries in quills. It is then sold as cinnamon sticks or ground into powder. Ceylon cinnamon is mildly sweet in flavor. Cassia cinnamon is more pungent, slightly bittersweet in flavor and is the form sold as “cinnamon” in the United States. Korintje cinnamon is from southwestern Sumatra, an island in Indonesia. Korintje cinnamon is delicate, smooth and fragrant, and is found in many stores and supermarkets. Cinnamon is used in sweet dishes in Europe and the U.S., but has wide culinary uses. In India, for instance, cinnamon is generally found in savory dishes such as curries.

Cumin Cumin is the dried seed harvested from the herb Cuminum cyminum, a member of the parsley family. Cumin is an ancient spice and has been found in the tombs of Pharaohs and mentioned in the Old Testament. This spice has a distinctive aroma and a slightly bitter but warm taste. It’s available as whole seeds or a ground powder, which has a stronger flavor. It is the second most popular spice in the world, second to pepper, and plays a major role in Mexican, Thai, Vietnamese and Indian cuisines. It’s also a popular seasoning in the fiery chili recipes of the southwestern U.S. When cumin is not available, chile powder is an acceptable substitute.

Paprika Paprika is a fine powder ground from certain varieties of Capsicum annuum (a type of pepper) which vary in size and shape. They may be small and round (Spain and Morocco) or pointed and cone shaped (Hungary and California). They are larger and milder than chile peppers. Paprika is produced from peppers ripened to redness, sometimes called “pimento,” the same as used to stuff olives. The powder can vary in color from bright red to rusty brown, its bouquet is slightly warm and sweet, and the flavor ranges from sweet and mild to pungent and fiery. You can substitute smoked paprika here, which is made from slow smoking the peppers over oak, resulting in an intoxicating smoky aroma.

Meat While we have used four different types of meat, this dish can be made with just lamb or beef, or any combination desired.

The addition of the pork adds another layer of flavor and is wellsuited to American tastes.

Greek Yogurt Greek yogurt is typically made of either ewe or cow’s milk, with the later being sold almost exclusively in the U.S. After milk is heated and cultured, the Greek method allows the milk to sit in muslin or cheesecloth bags so the whey filters away. This process produces a thick, smooth, creamy yogurt that is flavorful whether made with whole or nonfat milk and without the bitterness associated with some yogurts. If you wish to substitute regular yogurt, just let it sit in a fine mesh sieve over a bowl for 15 minutes to let it thicken.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Rob Grimm

SAVE 8.00 UP $ TO

Present this coupon at any Science Center ticket station for $2.00 off any full-price admission to any OMNIMAX® film.

Offer excludes feature-length films. Limit 4 redemptions per coupon.

May not be redeemed for cash, duplicated or combined with any other discount. Tickets subject to availability. Showtimes available at slsc.org. Offer good through October 7, 2010.

1-800-745-3000

M331

-+*!+&"# %$')(', Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

39

“How much arugula could you buy with a $150 cash bonus from M&I Bank?”*

Just add three qualifying services to any M&I personal checking account and you’ll get $150 to spend on your favorite vegetable!

Stop by your nearest St. Louis M&I Bank location for all the delicious details. mibank.com

Over 160 years of integrity, stability and strength

*A personal M&I Bank checking account is required to take advantage of this offer. Offer expires September 30, 2010. To be eligible for the bonus, you must apply with an M&I Bank Personal Banker at the same time for the services you choose. Offer applies to the applicable new services added to a personal M&I Bank checking account. Limit one cash bonus offer per customer. Cash bonus will be added to your account within two weeks of completing the required activity. Products and services are subject to approval. Account services must remain active for 90 days. Offer available for accounts opened in St. Louis market only.

Member FDIC ©2010 Marshall & Ilsley Corporation 10-802-702

40

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

?%

C : 6 ' C > = > = ;=!>C" $;

4" =>C .

; 0?

82A+%6,;(!+%9 ' &#

* #%) (+' !++(' !!.$%) -+" & (!%

# "( )!"(!# ) .+ " &'-) *%%$ *+.(!/ $ )'" *% (! " *%%$ &' ! ' .# +,5 "67( 6&7 1,$43 '' .% +,51 23 ' .% /150 $ 7$(3 3 + 56&)( 15 % /2 0 $438 ' .% /150 148/ 14,+( ' .% +,5 **B<3 3% B<3 B<3@. #;= ; #9 35 3% 35 @, # B5#9@ "C @ E'#E = B<3 >, 7 <$ABE!<E$= 6 ' 66 359<$A !<@@> /"&3<$E 57 * 4 5$ @ <$ @ EE AB B<3 !E "C B 1 75%E :EBE! 5= 20 ?75#E @<$A7E E@@,, ;==E @, /""9 ;$#" <$ B<3 & EB 61 ": ;B ! =" 6 >" ?";B 7<D;< 5=E7% 6 >";B C"B 5 B"'<& 5<B (<=> 5 ? + />EC)@ 8< B!"$$5%, >5 / "C @ 5@ A7

%++ # ,((% 0.+ " &'-) #,

3<-1)&/* + ' % 1 1 ( % , 5 A !266 / # #C =;!7C=?% 2 ! % @ ?

C 6 C @ : 6 ;" 0 ? ? :; B A '6:C? 8 = ?=6

CHANGE OUT YOUR WINDOWS AND PATIO DOORS AFFORDABLY

Visit our showroom and bring in your measurements for "to the penny" pricing.

314-802-4107

1515 Page Industrial Blvd.

St. Louis, MO 63132 314-802-4107

335 Market Place Fairview Heights, IL 1-877-ROCK-777

W W W. C A S T L E R O C K R E M O D E L I N G . C O M Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

41

MODERN KITCHENS

101

with Rocio Romero WRITTEN BY Brandi Wills

|

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Ashley Gieseking

Acclaimed architectural designer Rocio Romero gives a primer on modern kitchen design using elements employed in her modern minimalist LV home in Perryville, Mo.

Art

CHECK IT OUT!

FEAST EXTRA

Go on a virtual tour of Romero’s prefab LV home at feastSTL.com

42

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

KEEP ART SIMPLE. “Art in a modern space has to respect the architecture or else it will stick out like a sore thumb,” says Romero. “Go simple. It’s better to invest a significant amount on one really good painting than on 10 or 20 that are so-so and end up cluttering the space.”

Storage PUT EVERYTHING IN ITS PLACE. Incorporating significant storage minimizes clutter and preserves the clean lines of the space. It also keeps your tools within reach: “You can pretty much stand in one place, reach in front, behind, below, above, and have it all right there,” says Romero. Simple and affordable IKEA cabinetry, used here, can be purchased and installed locally through is-design-kitchens.com.

Recessed Lighting

Natural Light

DON’T CROSS THE LINES. Canister lights in the ceiling and a hidden rope light behind the cabinets’ trim provide additional lighting without disrupting the horizontality of the kitchen’s design. “Subtle lighting sources create a warm glow and reflect nicely off the stainless steel elements,” says Romero.

GO WITH THE FLOW. “I designed this kitchen such that the top of the cabinet meets the bottom side of the clerestory to allow a lot of light to come in, but also to blend in with the rest of the home,” says Romero. “Modern kitchens are designed to fit the architecture of the home so it becomes part of the same vocabulary.”

Modern Materials REPEAT THE BASICS. Stainless steel and white lacquer are aesthetic staples of modern design.

The stainless steel countertops match the clear, anodized aluminum of the windows and the stainless appliances, and the white lacquer on the cabinets and island matches that of the dining table.

Hidden Elements IF YOU CAN’T FIGHT IT, HIDE IT. “Refrigerators, for me, are the trickiest element to design within the kitchen because they’re vertical, which clashes with the clean, horizontal lines of the cabinets and countertops. So I came up with a wall that hides the refrigerator and includes a pantry for added storage. It keeps the fridge from being visually predominant from other points of the home.”

Colors REFINE YOUR PALETTE. “Pick a palette, keep it simple and stick to it,” recommends Romero. “Here we’ve used white, metal, brown, beige and black; all these elements are repeated through furnishings and finishes throughout the home, which is important to creating visual flow.”

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

43

Train to become a

Culinary Professional!

And create your future.

Le Co C rdon Blleu pr p ograms ms off offer ff : • • • • •

Handss-on trai Han ainning Exp xpeeriencedd chhef in insttru r ctors Exter Ext erns nshipp opporrtuuni niti t es ti Day an Day andd ev even enin ingg cl clas asse sess Finnanncial aidd fo for thosee whho quual aliif ify ify

Balaban’s sells 250 wines including me for under $20.

Just get your top off!

BALABAN’S: WINE STORE & MORE

©

Buy wine at retail for dining in & at home

1772 Clarkson Road at Baxter Chesterfield, MO 63017 636.449.6700 www.balabanswine.com

!"*( ,"+ &$)' %,( #)", Text STLCOOK2 to 78573 or call

1.877.451.5222 StLouisLCB52.com

Saturday, October 2 9 am to 5 pm Sunday, October 3 10 am to 5 pm

www.shawartfair.org “Buddha in the Bamboo” by Jaana Mattson

sponsored in part by: V te Ve tera rans ns Me Memo moriral mo a Paarkkway | St S . Peteers,, MO 63 6337 3766 37 Le Coorddon Bl Bleu e ® and the Le Co Cord rddon o Bl Bleu log logo ar are re regis gisisster gist e ed trtrade ademar ade ma ks off Ca mar Care reer re e Education Corporattion. on Co L Cord Le rddon o Bleu eu doe d s no not guaran guaa an ante teee emp te emplo looyme ymennt or sal sa ary. CEC E 234 234940 9 7 06/ 06 10

44

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

F0810

Making the

CUT

wrITTen bY Matt Sorrell

|

pHoTograpHY bY Rob Grimm

Chefs usually have no problem weighing in on culinary subjects, and knives are no exception. We asked four local chefs about the blades they use to ply their trade, and what you should consider when choosing your own.

Chef’s Knife Fujiwara 8-inch Gyuto - FKh SerieS, 180mm

Brian Hardesty, executive chef at Terrene, likes his knives, and while he has some pretty pricey ones at his disposal, the one that gets used most is his 8-inch Fujiwara chef’s knife, or gyuto.

“It’s a really good utility knife and you don’t have to drop a whole lot of money on it,” Hardesty says.

“The blade is very thin and flexible, goes right through vegetables, meat, whatever. You can do any job with that one knife. If you have to decide on one knife, then always go to the gyuto style.“ Hardesty generally prefers Japanese-made knives for their blade flexibility as well as their keen edge. However, he cautions that the Fujiwara he uses, as well as many other types of Japanese cutlery, has a carbon steel blade, which holds a great edge but does require frequent sharpening. It also is prone to corrosion and pitting, so diligent maintenance is a must. $62; japanesechefsknife.com

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

45

Paring Knife WÜsthof-trident ClassiC 3½-inCh paring knife

“You don’t need a whole lot of knives,” says Greg Ziegenfuss, executive chef at Butler’s Pantry, just a few must-haves: a chef’s knife, a good bread knife, maybe a boning or slicing knife. Although not as beefy as the others on his list, Ziegenfuss says having a quality paring knife on hand is also paramount.

His choice is a Wüsthof-Trident Classic paring knife with a 3½-inch composite steel blade, which can be sharpened to – and hold – a fine edge. It also has some flex, which is important when doing detail work like turning vegetables.

In addition to handling its main mission of coring and peeling, a paring knife is also a good choice for users who aren’t comfortable with a bigger blade or who cook on a smaller scale, says Ziegenfuss.

“A lot of things you can do with a chef’s knife you can do with a paring knife,” he says. “It’s versatile for a home cook who doesn’t need to dice up a handful of green onions, but maybe only four or five.” $40; Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, kitchenconservatory.com

Boning Knife forsChner 5½-inCh boning knife

Marc Del Pietro, executive chef at Luciano’s Trattoria, knows a thing or two about butchering, and his choice for a boning knife is a Forschner with a 5½ -inch blade. One of the primary things to avoid in a boning knife is a straight blade, Del Pietro says. A pronounced curve on the tip of the blade is key, since that’s the part that does about 60 percent of the cutting. Del Pietro says the Forschner has curve to spare.

He prefers boning blades of stainless steel, since they’re resistant to pitting and corrosion, which can happen in no time flat when carbon steel is exposed to blood and fluids, and stainless is also pretty flexible. Handle-wise, he says wood is a good choice because it doesn’t get as slippery when wet, and control is über-important during butchering.

“The biggest thing with any knife is balance,” says Del Pietro. “You really want a well-balanced knife for your hand.” $20-$25; Bertarelli Cutlery, 1927 Marconi Ave., The Hill, bertarellicutlery.com 46

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

47

Bread Knife BERTARELLI 10-INCH SERRATED BREAD KNIFE

When it comes to slicing bread, a traditional flat blade just won’t cut it, as they say.

“You really need to be able to saw through a loaf of bread, as opposed to using a flat chef’s knife to slice,” says Josh Allen, owner of Companion Bakery. Of course, sharpness is imperative, as is a serrated edge, but blade length is crucial as well. You’ll see a lot of bread knives out there with 8-inch blades, but Allen says the best bet is 10 to 12 inches of steel.

In the Companion kitchen, the choice is a 10-inch Bertarelli serrated bread knife. In addition to the length, Allen likes the stiffness of the blade. It has precious little flex, a quality of utmost importance when making your way through a particularly crusty loaf. $15; Bertarelli Cutlery, 1927 Marconi Ave., The Hill, bertarellicutlery.com

Ch

48

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

ou eck

t pa

ge

23!

Learn more about Bertarelli Cutlery and their exceptional knives.

EXPERIENCE THE DIFFERENCE.

SAPAUGH CADILLAC SERVICE Pick-Up and Delivery on ALL CADILLAC SERVICE! As low as

0

%

FOR

60

months on all new Cadillac CTS!*

*With approved credit. Offer expires August 31st, 2010.

!!!&'%(%$" &#*) 1507 MCNUTT, HERCULANEUM, MO 63048 16369310055 Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

49

When Feast contributor Tuan Lee embarked on a cultural trip

to photograph the people and customs of Cuba with his mentor, noted photographer Michael Eastman, he returned bearing a number of savory stories. His collection of sights, sounds and flavors surrounding the country’s cuisine are rarely experienced by the average American traveler.

WRITTEN BY Brandi Wills RECIPES COURTESY La Cocina de Lilliam

|

|

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Tuan Lee

TRANSLATED BY Fran Morales

Camarones a la Crema â&#x20AC;&#x201C; recipe on page 52

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

51

Camarones a la Crema (Shrimp a la Créme) Serves | 4 |

La Cocina de Lilliam

is a culinary One of Havana’s few family-owned restaurants, gem and a true reflection of owner Lilliam Dominguez Palenzuela’s lifelong passions. Exquisitely composed and pleasantly presented, each recipe has been honed, tested and retested until the sagacious chef is satisfied it can no longer be improved upon. She began cooking as a teenager, learning from her mother and a neighbor who shared her kitchen and her culinary knowledge openly with Palenzuela. Fifteen years ago, the Cuban government allowed, for the first time, the opening of small private businesses as a way to combat increasing economic problems caused by the lack of political and financial support from the U.S.S.R. Palenzuela took the opportunity to leave her then-career as a fashion designer and open her own restaurant, bringing with her an eye for detail and visual appeal. Today, Palenzuela happily cooks alongside her daughter Cleo and brother Carlos, while her sons and her husband Ulloa help keep the restaurant running smoothly. Every visit is a new experience, as Palenzuela continuously changes the menu, furnishings, plants and atmosphere to meet her evolving vision of perfection.

pictured on page 51

2 Tbsp

butter

1 Tbsp

olive oil

1 Tbsp

minced garlic

½ cup

chopped chard

1½ lbs

shrimp, peeled and de-veined

3 Tbsp

dry white wine

3 Tbsp

oyster sauce

4 Tbsp

heavy cream

1 pinch

freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation | Melt butter with olive oil in pan on medium heat and sauté minced garlic and chard until chard begins to wilt, about 3 to 4 minutes. Do not allow garlic to burn.

Raise heat to medium-high and add shrimp. Sauté until shrimp begin to turn pink but are not yet fully cooked.

Deglaze pan with wine and allow to reduce slightly.

Add oyster sauce and heavy cream. Cook briefly until mixture is thickened and shrimp are cooked through. Sprinkle with black pepper before serving.

52

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

St. Louis' Premier Grill Gallery

At St. Louis Home Fires, we have Unbelievable Grills, over 200 Rubs and Sauces, and the Largest Selection of Smoking Woods In Town!

Alder, Apple, Black Walnut, Cherry, Grape, Hickory, Jack Daniels, Mesquite, Mullberry, Oak, Orange, Peach, Pear, Pecan, Persimmon, Sassafras, Sugar Maple, Sweetwood Blend, Tabasco & Wine Barrel Chips!

END OF SEASON SALE!

FREE ASSEMBLY AND DELIVERY FOR A LIMITED TIME ONLY

PROUD MEMBER OF ST. LOUIS BBQ SOCIETY

15053 Manchester Rd., Ballwin, MO – 2 miles west of 141 –

(636) 256-6564 stlhomefires@sbcglobal.net

Discover the New Lifestyle Series!

9 COMMUNITIES TO CHOOSE FROM! ! "#"!

WE ARE ALWAYS OPEN AT:

PayneFamilyHomes.com | 314.477.1218 Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

53

Cuban cuisine

has its origins in Spanish, Portuguese, Creole and Chinese traditions, with its geography introducing seafood and indigenous tropical fruits and root vegetables into the mix. Authentic Cuban cooking focuses on natural ingredients with predominant flavors and includes distinctive (but difficult to acquire) spices, most notably garlic, cumin and oregano. Markets and street food are central to Havana’s culinary scene, filling the cityscape with brightly colored produce and freshly butchered meats. Aromas of traditional Cuban sandwiches cooking in a sandwich press waft past lines of people chatting as they wait their turn at the windows of popular juice stands.

Pulpo Al Ajillo (Sautéed Octopus in Garlic) Serve with roasted potatoes or a side of toasted bread with olive oil and a pinch of oregano.

Serves | 2 to 3 |

Pulpo Al Ajillo - recipe right

1 lb

octopus

1 Tbsp

minced garlic

2 Tbsp

minced onion

3 Tbsp

butter

1 Tbsp

olive oil

3 Tbsp

oyster sauce

1 Tbsp

heavy cream

½ cup

diced chard

3 Tbsp

dry white wine roasted red peppers (add to preference)

| Preparation | Rinse the octopus and boil in a pressure cooker for approximately 3 hours, or until tender. Skin and cut the octopus into pieces. Sauté octopus in garlic and onion with butter and olive oil and add oyster sauce, heavy cream, chard and finally the white wine. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes and, just before serving, add roasted peppers.

Frituras de Malanga (Malanga Fritters) Malanga is a brown root found mainly in tropical areas, including Cuba and Puerto Rico. It is usually ground into a paste which can be used to make rich starchy flour or an assortment of foods. It can be found locally in the South Grand neighborhood at Jay International Food Co., 3172 S. Grand Blvd.

Serves | 4 to 5 | 2 cups 1 1 Tbsp 1 tsp

Frituras de Malanga - recipe right

54

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

grated malanga egg flour salt

1 Tbsp

chopped parsley

1 Tbsp

chopped cilantro

| Preparation | Combine malanga, egg, flour, salt, parsley and cilantro. Deep-fry the mixture by the spoonful, approximately 2 Tbsp each, until golden brown. Remove and place on napkins to absorb the oil. Serve four to a plate, garnished as desired.

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

55

Lomo Especial (Special Pork Loin) Serves | 6 to 8 | 1

pictured below

pork loin, approximately 3 to 4 lbs, butterflied* salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ lb 1 15-oz ½ lb 1 lb

smoked ham, sliced ¼-inch thick can halved peaches pre-cooked, thick-slice pepper bacon Spanish chorizo

1 cup

pitted prunes

1 cup

sautéed green and red peppers, cooled

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350°F. Generously season both sides of butterflied pork loin with salt and pepper. Begin to layer remaining ingredients in the middle third of the loin in

the following order: ham, peach halves, bacon, chorizo, prunes and peppers.

Wrap the ends of the loin over the layered center and tie it at 1-inch intervals with butcher’s twine.

Roast for approximately 45 minutes or until internal temperature of the loin reaches 130°F. (Stuffing components are already cooked and you do not want to dry out the pork loin “wrapper.”)

Let rest 15 minutes. When cooled, cut into medallions, snipping off butcher’s twine as you go. * For an excellent guide on how to butterfly a pork loin, visit www.culinate.com/articles/culinate8/how−to−butterfly−a−bo neless−pork−loin.

St. Louis photographer Tuan Lee has been traveling the world, expanding his artistic and culinary repertoire, for 12 years. As an editorial and commercial photographer, he specializes in photographing people. Tuan would like to thank Havana producer Luis Lago Diaz for his generous assistance and Carlos Urdanivia for his gracious company.

Join chef-instructor Matt Borchardt and FEAST publisher Catherine Neville for an authentic Cuban cooking demo on Wed., Sept. 15 at 6:30PM. Call 314.587.2433 to reserve your space today!

56

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

GOT OAK? $999

Limited Time Only!

Sq.Ft. Installed*

Nothing can make your home more beautiful than

(had a fishbowl lately?)

4945 Daggett 772-4900 www.rigazzis.com

INCLUDES: • 3/4” Solid Oak Hardwood Flooring • Installation of New Wood • Sanding • Your Choice of Stain • Two Coats of Polyurethane • Delivery • Sales Tax

new hardwood floors!

Voted AOL cityguide Best Italian, Best Toasted Ravioli.

Proud to be the Oldest Restaurant on the Hill!

Fall Family Getaways at

$#&'( %&")!

NO INTEREST FOR ONE FULL YEAR Now through October 2nd, 2010 With this Ad only. *200 sq. ft. Minimum and Other Charges may Apply Discount represents savings off regular price. Prior sales excluded.

7!+" 1(%. 5* :6+!(!+!%, .:2#!2# $.19 +"% :&(%2+).1), +1 +"% ,%.%2%0 <.1)+ 41&#% 1$$%., 31). $:9!;3 :2 )2$1.#%++:8;% #%+:':3 :+ :2 :$$1.&:8;%0 :;;/!26;),!(% .:+%-

061!4( +3'(. 2 0.-"(.: 2 0.+, 7 -.0%+, 2 /!8!4# 2 -051&.(, 2 -6!5/!4# '066 2 &,"!4# "0:.!)(, 2 "!8!4# 2 134+334 +3*., 2 134: .!)(, 2 ,8((+ ,"33+!4# 2 +.0!6 .!)(, 2 9!16!4(, 04) 53.($

www.troutlodge.org 1-888-FUN-YMCA

"Quality through time since 1939"

•70 YEARS•

Brentwood

Chesterfield

287 Lamp & Lantern Village

2714 Breckenridge Industrial Court

Clayton & Woods Mill Roads

Off Manchester, One Block West of Hanley

636-391-6800

Mon-Fri 9-8 • Sat 9-5

•70 YEARS• 314-647-6060

www.mid-westfloor.com

Mon -Fri 9-5:30 • Sat 9-5

Now You Can Tell Your Own Story...

The Embellish Your Story Magnetic Design Collection

Oohs and Ahhs are just a phone call away.

Just Select A Base, Choose Your Words Or Magnets, And Embellish Your Story!

Hundreds Of Designs To Choose From!

Sweet Be's

12027 Manchester Road Des Peres, MO 63131 314-835-1400 www.Sweetbe.com

Creative. Distinctive. Impressive.

314.205.1151 ***1&8-3#,//8&8108# 74.-, 6 )$4'/8! 6 +/1 78-%2 5$40, 6 )$4'/8! )4("

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

57

Joe the butcher says...

Welcome to my backyard grill.

Steak Alternatives Beef Hanger or Skirt Steak: My first experience with hanger steak was at a steakhouse in Puerto Rico. I was amazed at the flavor and asked the waiter if the chef would let me see the piece of meat. I was taken into the kitchen and shown how simple it was to prepare. Skirt steak is most commonly used for fajitas. It is a flavorful steak that is excellent on the grill - just season with a great steak rub.

My choice of rub is My House Salt, course butcher pepper, and light minced garlic. To cook, grill over high heat to lock in the flavor, then put in the oven for five minutes on each side, or cook to medium rare. Slice on an angle and serve hot.

Beef Tri-Tip: Tri-tip steak, also called a triangle roast,

is the 1-½ to 2-½ pounds of meat that sit at the bottom of the sirloin. Not only does it have great flavor, it also tends to be lower in fat than most other cuts of beef.

The versatility of tri-tips is another factor that makes them great cuts of meat. Uncut it's a fantastic roast that should be grilled indirectly for 30 to 40 minutes. However, you can also cut the tri-tip into one-inch steaks that grill up perfectly in about eight minutes over low to medium direct heat. As always, let your steak sit for 5 to 10 minutes before you carve or serve it. This lets the juices return and evens out the heat.

Because tri-tip is lean, be careful not to overcook it, particularly when preparing the full roast. Medium is as far as you should go with this cut. Use a meat thermometer to make sure you get it right where you want it. Even if you are familiar with grilling other cuts, this one can throw you off by appearing underdone when it is really "ready to serve."

Texas Tri-Tip Steak Recipe: Particularly good flavors for tri-tip are Southwestern spices. This tri-tip steak is marinated in beer, wine and spices. Choose a dark beer, such as Amber Bock, for a richer flavor and add more cilantro flakes to heat it up. Prep time should take around 15 minutes. Cook time is around 10 minutes. You will need: 1 pound of tri-tip, 2 cups of red wine, 1 can of Amber Bock or a dark beer, 1 small sliced red onion, juice from 6 to 8 limes, ¼ cup fresh chopped cilantro, ½ tsp. ground cumin. To prepare the steak, combine all the ingredients, except for the tri-tip and stir. Place steak in a large baking dish or resealable bag. Pour marinade over steaks. Refrigerate for several hours, up to 24 hours. Preheat grill. Place steaks on grill over medium heat.

Grill for eight to ten minutes or until they reach desired doneness.

Let steaks rest for about five minutes before you serve them.

Both Tri-Tip Steaks and Hanger or Skirt Steaks are available fresh at our butcher shop.

4324 Weber Rd., St. Louis, MO. 314-631-2440

“Kenrick’s is your steak and chop butcher shop”

Marinade for a Tri-Tip Roast: You will need 1-½ to 2-½ pounds of beef tri-tip; one large chopped onion; ¼ cup melted, clarified butter, ¼ cup olive oil, ¼ cup A-1 type steak sauce; 1 cup teriyaki sauce; 3 tbsp finely minced garlic; and 1 cup dry red wine Chaianti.

Cooking instructions: Heat a grill on high heat. Sear the outside of the meat with fat side up.

Reduce heat to medium and slow roast for 20 minutes Use a meat thermometer for desired doneness.

JOE’S BEST FLAVOR TIP:

Remember, slow cooking is the key for the meat to absorb the most flavor.

WHERE GREAT FLOORS BEGIN! We carry Area Rugs, Carpeting, Ceramic/Porcelain, Laminate Floors, and more...

STORE HOURS

SAT 9-6 SUN 12-5 MON 10-6

1000 N. Lindbergh (at Olive)

15763 Manchester (just east of Clarkson)

13384 Manchester Rd. (Just west of 270)

DES PERES

ST. CHARLES

SOUTH COUNTY

314-993-0808

636-391-8070

314-909-7474

636-940-2244

314-892-4499

CREVE COEUR

58

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

ELLISVILLE

www.EdwardsCarpet.com

Regency Plaza (Bogey Rd., West of 94)

6925 S. Lindbergh (Marshall’s Plaza)

,(. '#/.%-! 11 1" ! 1"*

ESSENTIAL ELEMENTS OF THE HOME REFINED TO NEAR PERFECTION KITCHENS

• BATHS • INTERIORS

/.$ 10# /&/ 2/+2$ +01$2$**) !!#"& #"& $%#' $%#'

Kirkwood: K Ki irk rkwood woood: w oodd: 8/6, 8/66,, 8/20 8/ 8//220 O’ O ’Fa Falllloonn: n: Every EEvver ery Sa SSat. at.

O’Fallon:

.08" -;&))) 2/$!*+6 ;! ,76#3;$ 1;$!;98(

19% /00 :"59 '/4"98(

$$$'%&")#))#*('%+! ) )) * !

BAUMHOUSE DESIGN 636.225.9000

PLEASE CALL FOR A SHOWROOM APPOINTMENT

MIDWEST HIGH PERFORMANCE

HEADQUARTERS

.#'-+).% '"

(/.!,.&) +*/'$ Largest Inventory of Corvette Coupes & Convertibles in the Midwest

2011 ZR1 CORVETTE ...... CRYSTAL RED 2011 ZR1 CORVETTE .........TRIPLE BLACK 2010 ZR1 CORVETTE

.........VICTORY RED

SAVE $12,000* SAVE $15,000*

ALSO AVAILABLE CYBER GRAY & ALL NEW SUPERSONIC IC B BLUE!!

2010 CORVETTE Z06 CYBER GRAY, 3LZ. SAVE $68,545* YEAR

(314) 361-7313

bixbys-mohistory.com

Missouri History Museum %$".!/ -0"& ) #$('!/$",+$"*

MODEL

OPTIONS

PRICE

2011 CORVETTE CONV. .. TRIPLE BLACK, 3LT, 6 SPD. .......$55,955* 2010 CORVETTE CONV. ....WHITE 2 LT, CHROMES ................$52,037* 2010 CORVETTE CONV. ....CYBER GRAY, 3 LT, NAV. ...............$57,099* 2010 CORVETTE CONV ......SILVER, 2LT., CHROMES ...............$52,373* 2010 CORVETTE CONV. ....TORCH RED, 3LT., NAV. ................ $56,083* 2010 CORVETTE COUPE ...YELLOW, 2LT., 6 SPD. .................. $48,549* 2010 CORVETTE COUPE ...CYBER GRAY, 3LT., NAV. .............. $50,933* 2010 CORVETTE COUPE ...BLACK, 2LT., CHROMES .............. $46,296* 2010 CORVETTE COUPE ...CRYSTAL RED, 3LT., NAV. ............ $51,617* 2010 CORVETTE COUPE ...WHITE, 3LT., NAV. ........................ $49,953* 2010 CORVETTE COUPE ...TORCH RED, 3LT., NAV................ $49,960* 2010 CORVETTE COUPE ...BLACK, 3LT., CHROMES ...............$49,097* 2010 CAMARO ZL 550

SUPERCHARGED

SAVE $5,000*

LIMITED EDITION • ONLY 250 PRODUCED

2-LEFT!

*Sale prices include all discounts and rebates. See dealer for details.

SHOP ONLINE AT: www.weberchevrolet.net

Creve Coeur, Missouri 12015 Olive Blvd.

314-567-3300 TOLL FREE 1-888-408-2470 Inspired Food Culture

KOHLS

SEPTEMBER 2010

59

ENJOY BETTER HEARING IN NOISY ENVIRONMENTS

FOLLOW ON FACEBOOK

Robert Noble AuD CCC-A Doctor of Audiology Margaret Fritsch Juelich AuD CCC-A Doctor of Audiology

Tina Daher McWhorter MA CCC-A Audiologist

Hearing solutions provided with the highest level of personalized care.

16219 Baxter Road, Chesterfield, MO 63017 Convenient Front Door Parking 636-778-9232 â&#x20AC;˘ www.HearSTL.com

Friday, November 5 at 8PM Tickets at the Fox Box Office, metrotix.com or 314-534-1111 Welcomed by 60

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

SOUR BEER POURS into the St. Louis Beer Scene

Itloomsinadarkundercroftnear the heart of St. Louis’ downtown, a brew so potent, so insipid, one dares not enter its lair casually. Carelessly uncorked, it could rage out of control, tainting everything in its path with sour humors. The threat of it sends children running in panic, makes young maidens faint and grown men cry ...

It’s the torrid tale of sour beers in the modern brewing world. Dramatic, yes, but only slightly exaggerated.

The concept of producing sour ale – beer aged to a tart flavor with wild yeasts and lactic acid bacteria – in the same ZIP code as pale ales strikes fear in brewers’ hearts. The aggressive yeasts have a nasty reputation for running amok and contaminating other batches.

wrITTen by Barbara E. Stefàno

|

PhoTograPhy by Geoff Cardin

“You get it wrong, and this glass of pale ale is going to be sour,” says Saint Louis Brewery co-owner Dan Kopman, raising a glass of Schlafly pale ale. It is the cellar – what Kopman calls The Playground – below The Tap Room at 2100 Locust St. that houses some of the first few forays into sour beer in St. Louis.

Sour beers are often aged in oak barrels for many months or even years. Depending on the brewer’s preference, he may expose the beer wort to the air to pick up natural, wild yeasts or inoculate it with special yeasts. These yeasts consume more of the sugars in the wort than those used in the pale ales that dominate the market these days, giving the brew its signature tartness. The longer the beer ferments, the more it sours.

Beers can also be soured with lactic acid bacteria, a shortcut that takes only weeks; however, this method alone may not yield the same complexity favored by beer enthusiasts. Some of the more assertive, funky sours are arguably an acquired taste, while milder versions are subtly, pleasantly tangy. Many varieties pick up dusty, musty or oaky flavors from the barrel aging, as well as hints of malt, fruit, yeast and acid, or even a barnyard quality. Often, brewers use a combination of yeast and lactic acid, blend batches, and add fruit to achieve just the right balance of tart, sweet, acidic and other flavors.

Tucked back in what used to be Schlafly’s boiler room are four experimental batches of wild-yeast-fermented sour ale the brewery staff started in March 2010, and which Kopman hopes to share with his customers in a couple of years.

Until then, look for a lactic acid sour beer to debut at the Schlafly HOP in the City event on Sept. 18 at The Tap Room.

It’s a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad Wort “I’ve had people tell me I was insane – and some other words I can’t say,” says Drew Huerter, a brewer at Saint Louis Brewery and former head brewer at the recently shuttered Mattingly Brewing Co. Huerter, who fermented sour beers for Mattingly, says he was sharply criticized by peers who considered the aggressive yeasts an unnecessary risk. He scoffs at what he sees as overreaction.

“It [brewing sour beer] can be done without any ill consequences, but you can also end up with a pale ale that tastes like it came from a blue cheese factory. Is the paranoia justified? Yes. Is it necessary? No.” The repercussions of contamination can be huge – Kopman cites the case of Jolly Pumpkin Brewery in Michigan, which he says converted to sour beer completely after the yeasts contaminated and soured every ale in the brewery

Left: Augusta Brewing Co. assistant brewer, Kate Crombie, transfers a batch of beer to a conical fermenter. Above: Wort is filtered and cooled before yeast is introduced.

62

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

Contact Donna Bischoff at 314-340-8529 for more information

ADVERTISE?

INTERIOR REMODELING: • KITCHENS • BATHROOMS • LOWER LEVELS • MEDIA ROOMS • FAMILY ROOMS • MASTER BEDROOMS

1101 Lucas Ave.

Near 11th & Washington 314-621-9993

7307 Watson Rd

When it comes to remodeling & home repair, Leave the to us

details

SERVING DINNER TUESDAY - SATURDAY

• 99

(Sun. thru Thurs.)

Beaujolais Nouveau French Wine Party November 19th

For reservations please call 618-786-2331 ext. 0

For more information on these and many more events please visit our website at www.PMLodge.net

St. Louis, Missouri 63110 Visit us at Lorenzostrattoria.com Phone Reservations

773-2223

Authentic Italian food with a touch of contemporary flavor

The Lodge at Pere Marquette Plus tax. No holidays. Exceptions apply.

1933 Edwards on the "Hill"

Serving Lunch and Dinner

www.mangoperu.com

314-368-0068 | www.bellahomes-stl.com

PER NIGHT

By Sauce, RFT, and Alive Magazines

At Mackenzie Point 314-752-8300

For Jobs big or small call Jeff Battram TODAY.

$

Voted Best South American Restaurant 2010

SERVING LUNCH MONDAY - SATURDAY & DINNER NIGHTLY

Get a New Kitchen in 2 Days!

Free Measurements, Design & Quote!

Coming Soon Earth City!

Residential Commercial GRANITE INSTALLED STARTING ATT

$

28

95

Per sq. ft. • 3cm granite OFFER EXPIRES 11/01/10

Quality, Savings, and Fast!

Vanity Special on Sale Now!

www.kitchengranitecreations.com

3 Locations

Florrisant South County Manchester

314-838-8588 314-892-3232 636-527-8850

10% to 35% Off Wood Cabinets

...and a whole lot more.

7811 Clayton Rd. • 314-726-2220 (3 Blks. East of Brentwood)

Everyone loves grabbing a deal, including me!

It doesn’t matter if you are a busy working mother of three like me or a hip college student who haunts Washington Avenue by night – we all love shopping, eating out and don’t want to pay full price. Plus, most of us don’t have time to search the web for the best deal!

That’s why Today’s Deal is a part of my morning and should be part of yours.

Each day I receive one, deeply discounted offer in an e-mail from STLtoday or access the deal at stltoday.com/todaysdeal.

To start receiving your offers, sign up today in two easy steps: ❖ go to stltoday.com/todaysdeal ❖ enter your e-mail address and wake up each morning to a new deal – Today’s Deal!

Hop on, share the deals with friends and save money doing what you like to do most (I did)!

Nancy Long VP Marketing | ST. LOUIS POST-DISPATCH

�

want to

Kitchen

THE PARTY ALWAYS ENDS UP IN THE LET’S MAKE YOURS A GREAT PLACE TO GATHER.

fast | simple | convenient > stltoday.com/todaysdeal

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

63

– but Huerter insists the hurdles to preventing crosscontamination are not. “Don’t use the same equipment.

Other than that, good brewing hygiene will protect you.”

St. Louis-brewed sour beers are a relative rarity but may be catching on. From early 2009 until its sudden closure in July 2010, Mattingly had been hosting Funky Friday the 13th sour-beer events on each Friday 13. The celebration attracted “beer geeks” in droves.

Wine barrels are key in the fermentation of Augusta Brewing Co.’s Sour Cherry ale, which head brewer Shawn Herrin expects will hit a the shelves at Randall’s Wine and Spirits, Friar Tuck and The Wine and Cheese Place in 22oz bottles in September or October.

“You won’t have that toasty flavor that bourbon barrels will have. Instead, you’ll get more vanilla flavors. I like the idea of getting the wine characteristics from barrels that were used for Norton or Chambourcin,” Herrin says.

Augusta’s Sour Cherry started three years ago with an Augusta Tripel, which was inoculated with two strains of Brettanomyces wild yeast, as well as Pediococcus and Lactobacillus bacteria. Cherries – pits and all – were added to the mix. After eight months, half the batch was placed in oak and half in stainless steel for further fermentation. Later, it was blended back together with a Tripel that was soured with lactic acid bacteria. The result is a sweet-sour brew that borrows nuttiness from the cherry pits for a flavor similar to a sour cherry pie.

Herrin says the Sour Cherry was a huge hit at Square One Brewery and Distillery in April 2010. Then under the same management as Augusta Brewing, Square One served the ale on tap and it was gone in a matter of weeks. “There were people who literally came in every day on their lunch breaks to have it until it was gone.”

Though the bottled version is intended as a one-off, Herrin is thinking ahead. He’s gearing up to start a full-fledged sour beer program for Augusta Brewing that he believes will fill an under-served niche in the Midwest. Those who don’t quite get sour beers may never understand the appeal, but those who love them, really love them.

“I’ve have friends who are beer nerds and they’re constantly bugging me about doing more sours,” says Herrin. “It’s the buzzword now. It used to be the really hoppy beers, now it’s the sour beers.”

CHECK IT Saint Louis Brewery has four barrels of experimental sour beer fermenting in their cellar.

64

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

OUT ONLINE! feastSTL.com

Visit feastSTL.com for columnist Mike Sweeney’s sour beer recommends!

P S JOIN US!

Don’t miss your chance to interact directly with these professionals and mingle with your fellow food lovers.

Cooking Demo

Wine Tasting

Hands-on Class

Wed., Sept. 15, 6:30pm, L’Ecole Culinaire, 314.587.2433

Thu., Sept. 23, 6pm, Araka Restaurant, rsvp@stlwinegirl.com

Thu., Sept. 30, 6pm, Schnucks Cooks Cooking School, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Reserve your spot for a taste of Cuba at this demonstration class. You will learn, step by step, how to make real daiquiris, black bean dip with fried plantain chips, crab fritters, pork loin with mojo criollo and sweet, silky orange flan.

Enjoy a complimentary wine tasting with columnist Angela Ortmann at Araka Restaurant in Clayton. The wines featured at this tasting will be accompanied by nibbles and tasting notes on each of the wines you sample.

Get chopping at this Middle Eastern cooking class and make the savory kofta found on page 38, handmade pitas, baba ghanoush, a cucumber-tomato-onion salad and umm ali, an Egyptian take on bread pudding.

ADVERTISE?

D������ A St. Louis Style Frozen Pizza Co.

K0%7G 19"49J: . EE= 64=746 J 4! #7%6! :"7%& %:46> D9'=MMG <92"!4@ #7%6! =:& 9#4%:@ J% &9 %0%7G4! :" 8966 <M% 49 ;=N% 627% G927 8 EE= 6 =<69M24%MG 8%7#%'4 ? 7 "!4 924 9# A/*- 90%:>

"/ .# .(, 1 $-,!&)!&* %,.0

.%88%79: @ ,=26="% L .%88%79: @ $ B%=4@ 1%M2I% L F94 ( :"

'2*. +(,

)%"" % C +9;=49 5=6 M H=7M ' =:& 3!%%6% L ,=26="%

!'+ #+2 )- ' #+2 $-+ #+2

Contact Donna Bischoff at 314-340-8529 for more information

want to

&&&,(/%+/&0.#""-,*/1

Sweetest Slice of Fall

BumbleBerry Pie

Call Today!

Recipe available in cookbook II!

Limited Time Offer

Professional

Teeth Whiteningg

$

179

Reg. $335 CCall Ca all ttoday oday od day ay ffor or yyour FREE consultation with Dr. Delaney & Dr. Bremer

T DDelaney, Tom l DMD & DDarren BBremer, DMD 1126 W. Pearce Blvd., Suite 110, Wentzville, MO www.WentzvilleFamilyDentist.com

Make your appointment today! 636.327.5188

Get Away with

MURDER

Interactive Murder Mystery Theatre served with a Four Course Meal to DIE for!

only 5 minutes from downtown

& - ) (%+/ $+#*+,!%.'"+%,

Miss

AimeeB’s TEA ROOM &THE UPSTAIRS MARKETPLACE

Open Tuesday-Saturday 9am - 3pm

www.missaimeeb.com 837 First Capitol Drive

636-946-4202

CABINETS • FLOORS

TRIM •STAIRS •FURNITURE

SAVE 80% Over Cabinet Replacement!

Call Today and Save an Additional 10%

To renew the wood in your home or office!

• Renew your wood to like-new condition or total color change • No Dust. No Mess. No Odor.™

4426 Randall Pl. • St. Louis • 314-533-9830 www.bissellmansion.com

ReglazeYour BathTub & Tile! ✭✭ Special $199 ✭ ✭ )-(+ "'%% ,&$!* !#

Carpet • Hardwood • Laminate • Ceramic & Vinyl •

)&7!62 %!0,6.7/ $32237/"

CONTEMPORARY REFINISHING

Your Floors ...Our LEGACY

'-##&& !(+%. $*),) $"

& ')#(!#$#"% #"*

4 *3/# '.10 4 '!8& 4 *3, )5830#&0 4 )!7 0 4 (6.7/&2/650 4 (31!7&/0 4 -558!37,&0 (68620 -+3!8318&

NHance Wood Renewal of St. Louis 636-52RENEW (636-527-3639) • www.nhance.com/der Independently Owned & Operated

Fall Shoes Have Arrived We Carry and Special Order Wide Widths Mom's Shoes, Dad's Shoes, Kyd's Shoes buy them all a

t...

In home consultation all major brands.

LEGACY FLOORING 314-423-3466

&&&(!)'!!$#+!(*#" % 618-288-7777 4215 S. State Rt 159, Suite 2 (next to Hardees) Glen Carbon, IL Hours: Monday-Friday 10-6 & Saturday 10-4

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

65

THANK YOU FOR

SMOKING WRITTEN BY Russ

66

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

Carr |

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Greg Rannells

Back in the days before ovens and microwaves, our ancestors didn’t have a lot of options; pretty much everything they cooked was smoked. A wood fire was the sole cooking method, so people learned to make the most of it.

As cooking moved into the kitchen and got all cleaned up, the techniques that were common knowledge for centuries were lost in a hazy, hickory-scented fog. The art of smoking began to take on the qualities of the smoke itself.

Elusive. Ethereal. A thing not readily grasped.

But there’s no reason for it to stay that way. We asked some local smoke masters for advice on demystifying the most common smoking techniques. Little wonder that the first bit of wisdom calls for a mental trip back in time.

“You’re gonna have to accept that this is analog [cooking] in a digital world,” says Mike Emerson of Pappy’s Smokehouse.

That means a lot of what goes on with smoking is governed by feel more than anything. Smoking is a trial-and-error process, even for professional chefs, but the delicious rewards are worth it. Whether it’s hot smoking, stovetop smoking or cold smoking, if you’ve got a good brine or rub, a quality piece of meat and a willingness to learn, you can produce fantastic results.

At Annie Gunn’s, Chef Lou Rook III smokes the restaurant’s signature shrimp in the decadesold smokehouse.

STOVETOP SMOKING No grill? No fire? No problem.

Stovetop smoking eliminates a lot of the time and mess of traditional smoking by reducing it to the absolute basics: a rack for the food, a small amount of wood chips to provide smoke and a tightly sealed container to cook in. With no fire to tend and no weather to get in the way, stovetop smoking is an ideal way to bring outdoor flavor to indoor cooking.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED: → A ready-made commercial stovetop smoker gives you everything you need in one convenient kit. The most popular kits come from Camerons Professional Cookware ($30-$60, cameronscookware.com) and include wood chips, recipes and can’t-fail instructions. → A broiler tray set inside a large roasting pan and sealed with a foil tent can work easily. Tom Coghill, owner and chef at Iron Barley, employs a 14-inch cast iron skillet (with a lid) and a cake cooling rack. → Wood chips or shavings for making smoke. Fruit woods are better for a lighter flavor.

HOW TO DO IT:

Soak your wood chips in water for 15 to 30 minutes.

Prepare whatever you’re smoking with a brine or a rub.

This is the most crucial step, explains Coghill, using a piece of salmon as an example. “This [brine or rub] gives the smoke something to stick to,” he says. “Plus the heat melts the sugars [in the rub] and sears the fish.” → Lightly brush your broiler pan or rack with oil, so that →

→

the smoked food won’t stick.

Set the base of your smoker on the stove burner and let it get hot. → Add the wood chips to the iron skillet or smoker base, and place the rack on top. Once the chips begin to smolder, add your food and cover the pan tightly with a lid or foil. → Adjust the temperature of your smoker to control cooking times. →

→ A drip pan under the meat will prevent flare-ups; a foil pie pan works great for this. → Wood chips or chunks for making smoke. Use chips for items that smoke quickly, such as fish and veggies. Use chunks for smoking bigger cuts like shoulder or brisket. → A thermometer to show the temperature inside the grill will make the process much easier.

HOW TO DO IT:

Though you can do larger pieces of meat, the small size of most stovetop smokers means this technique is better used for fish, boneless chicken breasts, fruits and veggies.

You can also briefly smoke a bigger piece of meat on the stove, then finish it in the oven.

HOT SMOKING

Where there’s a grill, there’s a way.

The style may be known as “hot” smoking, but the smoker’s mantra is “low and slow.” Lou Rook III of Annie Gunn’s suggests smoking ribs at a relatively cool 175°F for about three hours. Smoking on the grill doesn’t require a lot of work, just a fair amount of patience.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED:

Nearly any grill can be used for smoking, whether it uses charcoal or gas.

→

Coghill’s make-shift stovetop 68 Tom feastSTL.com SEPTEMBER 2010 smoker is put to work at Iron Barley.

As with any other smoking technique, it’s absolutely necessary to brine or use a rub on whatever you’re going to prepare. “The meat will not take on smoke without it,” says Rook. → Soak your wood chips or chunks in water for 15 to 30 minutes. → If you’re using charcoal, get the fire started. When the coals are starting to ash over, move them to one side of the grill. On a gas grill, only light one side of burners. → Place the drip pan directly under where the meat will rest, then add your wood chips or chunks to the coals. In a gas grill, put the wood in a foil pan over the burners. → Place the meat on the grill, close the lid and resist the temptation to check it.Though you can smoke pretty much anything on a grill, the larger scale lends itself to bigger pieces of meat. Emerson recommends pork shoulder for beginning smokers. “It’s probably the most forgiving cut … and it’s relatively inexpensive. And once the meat pulls away from the bone, you know it’s done.” →

Beautifully brined beef tenderloins ready for smoking at Annie Gunn’s.

CHECK IT OUT!

Visit feastSTL.com for tips on

FEAST EXTRA

COLD SMOKING!

SUMMER SALES EVENT

40% OFF ENDS SOON! OFF REGULAR PRICED GOLD PROTECTION PACKAGE

Free in Home Estimates. +456 1355:7 0:/&:5, 9 56: ,-!#!0.3* 56: 2$ ())%- *-/)%')!/0 &"+)%1 4$ 56: '"7/! 9 %"3-// 6.2: %:.7)7"3$! 7"5:#54"$ .$! :.#: "8 &4$!(

of St. Louis

1.877.643.5638

314-646-0700 618-310-3942

www.mygutterhelmet.com

Hard-boiled eggs are an unexpected but delicious choice for smoking at Pappy’s Smokehouse.

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

69

Brown Sugar Cured and Smoked Beef Tenderloin

HoMeMade MarjoraM Mayonnaise

Yield | 1¼ cups | 1 large egg

By lou rook iii, The smokehouse markeT and annie Gunn’s

1Tbsp tarragon vinegar ½ cup olive oil

After grilling or roasting to desired doneness, this smoked tenderloin can go upscale as a medallion entrée, or get piled high on sandwiches at your next tailgate. If you’ve got a thermometer-equipped grill, the smoking process will be as simple as the prep!

½ cup vegetable oil 1Tbsp chopped fresh marjoram ½ tsp salt pinch of freshly ground white pepper

| Preparation - Egg Salad | in a medium saucepan, place the eggs and cover with water by 1 inch. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook the eggs at a bare boil for exactly 10 minutes. drain and rinse under cold running water. place the eggs in an ice bath to cool. When chilled, peel the eggs and cut in half lengthwise.

Smoked Egg Salad

By Mike eMerson, pappy’s smokehouse

Smoking isn’t always about a slab of meat. Egg salad may seem like one of the least likely dishes to associate with a smoker, but the subtle flavor adds new depth to a classic recipe. Add in homemade mayo as a binder and this brownbag standby becomes a lunchtime standout.

Serves | 6 to 8 | egg salad

12 eggs applewood or cherrywood chips ¼ to ½ cup Homemade Marjoram Mayonnaise (recipe follows) ¼ cup minced shallots 1 stalk celery, diced 4 Tbsp capers 1 Tbsp fresh parsley, chopped salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

soak a handful of wood chips in a large bowl of cold water for at least 30 minutes. drain the chips and scatter in the bottom of a stovetop smoker (or into a hot grill). heat the chips over medium-low heat until smoky, about 10 minutes. place 16 egg halves rounded side down on the rack of your smoker; reserve 6 halves. smoke for about 45 minutes.

Serves | 6 to 8 | 3½ tsp

kosher salt

1 Tbsp

freshly ground black pepper

1 Tbsp

granulated garlic

1/3 cup

light brown sugar

2 lbs

beef tenderloin, cleaned and trimmed wood chips, soaked in water for 30 minutes

dice all eggs (smoked and not-smoked) and allow to chill. in a medium bowl, add ¼ cup mayonnaise to the diced eggs, along with the shallots, celery, capers and parsley. additional mayonnaise may be added 1 Tbsp at a time to reach desired consistency. adjust the seasoning to taste. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

| Preparation - Mayonnaise | in a food processor, blend the egg and vinegar for 10 seconds. With the processor running, slowly pour the oil through the feed tube and process until emulsified. (should the mixture become too thick, with the machine running, add water 2 tsp at a time.) add the marjoram, salt and pepper and pulse to blend. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before using.

Experience Europe and beyond with our specialty foods and gifts.

JOIN OUR OLIVE OIL CLUB! Extra Virgin, an Olive Ovation 143 Carondelet Plaza Clayton, MO 63105 314-727-6464 Monday- Saturday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Sunday 1 p.m. to 5 p.m.

132 N. Main Street, St. Charles MO 63301 P (636) 940-1960 / F (636 940-1272

www.extravirginoo.com

Open Tuesday - Friday for Lunch & Dinner Saturday 3:00 - 10:30pm Sunday 4:00 - 8:30pm

Available for Private Parties Free valet parking

Time to renovate?

Problem solved.

Bistro 517

132 N. Main Street St. Charles MO 63301 6pm til close Sun-Thurs 4pm til close Fri-Sat Closed Mondays

Spring & Summer 4pm til close Tues-Sun Fall & Winter 6pm til close Tues-Thurs 4pm til close Fri-Sun

an integral part of a St. Louis breakfast for more than 140 years…

want to

Finance by Cambria is convenient and easy. ! No money down. ! Interest free financing for up to one year with no payments. ! Secure paperless telephone application. ! Credit decision in less than 10 minutes. ! Financing up to $45K for any project including Cambria.

! Finance by Cambria brings your entire project together to include Cambria, cabinets, flooring, appliances, sinks and more.

“Loans provided by EnerBank USA (1245 E. Brickyard Rd., Ste. 640, Salt Lake City, UT 84106) on approved credit, for a limited time. Repayment terms vary from 18 to 132 months. 17.60% fixed APR, as of June 1, 2010, is subject to change. Interest waived if repaid with the promotional same as cash period.”

Photos by: Sarah Carmody

Upscale Private Catering www.bistrostlouis.com

70

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2010

(;)416/(10;) JM ,01(28) & *+12

$ $"

!"$#%%

%%%'5$379":<#.# -.9:'"!$

subscribe online at stltoday.com/subscribe

Contact Donna Bischoff at 314-340-8529 for more information

Feast upon our dazzling array of olive oils!

ADVERTISE?

(The mayonnaise will keep tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours.)

| Preparation | Mix first four ingredients together in a bowl, then rub all over the meat. Place on a roasting rack in the refrigerator and allow to cure overnight.

Prepare the coals in your grill, then pull the coals to one side.

Place a pan on the side with no coals; add your wood chips to the coals. Place the tenderloin on the grill above the pan and close grill lid.

Smoke at 175°F until an internal temperature of 110°F is achieved. At this point the meat is smoked and ready to be oiled for finishing on the grill or roasting.

Hot Smoked Salmon with Barley Salad and Tomato-Cucumber Relish

1/3 cup 2/3 cup 1 tsp 2 tsp 1 cup

white wine vinegar olive oil fresh chopped tarragon sugar lemon juice salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

hoT smoked salmon

1/3 cup 1/3 cup 1/3 cup 1 Tbsp 2 tsp 4 1 oz 1

By Tom Coghill, Iron BArLey

brown sugar sugar kosher salt freshly ground black pepper dry dill 6- to 7-oz fresh salmon fillets applewood chips freshly chopped parsley lemon, cut into wedges

The bright combination of flavors in the relish helps bring out the rich smokiness of the salmon – an amazing depth of flavor considering it cooks in just five minutes. “Just make sure you have a good exhaust fan,” says Coghill, “or you’ll be meeting the boys at your local fire department.”

| Preparation - Barley Salad | Cut zucchini and yellow

squash in half lengthwise. Cut eggplant into ½-inch thick slices. Cut red onion into 3- to 4½-inch thick slices. Toss vegetables in ¾ cup vinaigrette, then grill 3 to 5 minutes per side. Set aside to let cool.

When the skillet is very hot, drop 8 applewood chips in the bottom of the skillet, carefully place the rack into the skillet, then cover tightly with a lid. Let smoke 4 to 5 minutes, then check for doneness; the salmon should be firm to the touch.

Serves | 4 |

Bring 1 quart of water to a boil, add barley; cover and simmer for 35 minutes. Strain barley and spread onto a cookie sheet, then refrigerate to cool. Dice the grilled vegetables; mix with the cooled barley and remaining ¼ cup of vinaigrette. refrigerate until ready to serve.

| To Serve | Place a generous spoonful of barley salad in the center of each plate. Place hot smoked salmon on top of barley salad. Mix relish well and spoon on top of salmon.

Garnish with parsley and lemon wedge.

barley salad

1

zucchini

1

yellow squash

1

eggplant

1

large red onion, peeled

1 cup

apple cider vinaigrette salad dressing

1 cup

barley

| Preparation - Hot Smoked Salmon | Heat an iron skillet on

high for 5 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare a “dry brine” by mixing sugar, brown sugar, salt, pepper and dill. Spray a round cake rack with non-stick cooking spray and place the fillets on the rack; do not let them touch each other. Sprinkle the dry brine generously on the salmon fillets.

TomaTo-CuCumber relish

1

cucumber, peeled

1

large tomato, seeded

½

| Preparation - Tomato-Cucumber Relish | Dice cucumber, tomato and red onion, and mix with remaining ingredients. refrigerate until ready to serve.

medium red onion

Visit two of Missouri’s Premier Wineries Just Minutes from St. Louis!

Featured on NBC’s Today Show!

Wine & Beer Garden Picnic BasketsWelcome Award Winning Wines Free Live Music

“Missouri’s Most Scenic Winery” Free Live Music Sunset Dinners Award Winning Wines Gourmet Food

5601 High Street Augusta, MO www.augustawinery.com 636-228-4301

201 Montelle Drive Augusta, MO www.montelle.com 636-228-4464

Take a tour of the decades-old smokehouse behind Annie Gunn’s with chef Lou Rook III.

view our ONLINE VIDEO feastSTL.com

REQUEST YOUR COPY OF THE 2010-11 ARTS CALENDAR IN THE MAIL – Just call 636-922-8255. For event tickets, call 636-922-8050.

Cennter Stage Theatre Conceerts Art Exhibitions Lectures Foreiign Films Oppenn-Mic

METROPOLITAN COSMETIC LASER CTR.

Come and Enjoy Our SEPTEMBER SPECIALS...

BUY 1 LIFETIME LASER HAIR REMOVAL PACKAGE, GET 2 FREE! Any area, call for more details.

Performing laser hair removal longer than anyone in St. Louis!

South County, 12670 Lamplighter Sq.

(314) 842-5600 www.noshave.com

Expires 9/30/10

0% INTEREST FOR 12 MONTHS

Dinner and a movie? Decent.

Date night with live entertainment?

Now you’re thinking.

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

71

FLOORING/TILE

HEALTHCARE SERVICES

Floor Restoration Marble ! Stone ! Ceramic Tile Grout ! Carpet ! Wood ! Vinyl

ACCOUNTING/TAXES

CHILDCARE SERVICES

GET ORGANIZED FOR 2011 Experienced in Personal, Professional Accounting & Bookkeeping Perfect for small businesses or personal bookkeeping. Quickbooks knowledgeable. Affordable rates.

Mary Kraemer 314.801.1326 mary@mk-accounting.com

ANNOUNCEMENTS

LEGOS WANTED!!

We Buy Used, Loose, Boxed, Tubs, Collections and Anything Lego.

Call Tom at 314.398.0174

I ENJOY BEING A NANNY I love Children, Educated in Child Development, Extensive Childcare Experience & Fantastic Ref's. Will Consider Full or PT Employment.

Diana 314-477-7241

CLEANING SERVICES ï RESTAURANT CLEANING ï ïGerm Control ï Green Cleaning ï ï Office Cleaning ï Deep Cleaning ï ï Basement & Garage Cleaning ï ï Windows ï Move-In/Move-Out ï ï High Cleaning ï Light Hauling ï

AUTOMOTIVE AUTO REHAB LLC Harold 314-956-2468 We come to you!

Mobile detailing, scratches, scuffs, paint touch-up, bumper repair, headlight restoration, odor removal.

Insured. Certified Technicians.

314-727-3355 ï Locally Owned & Operated ï www.cleanatron.com

FREE 1 HOUR CLEANING! (with purchase of 3 hour cleaning) Residential-Office-Construction windows, power washing, lg mirrors, 314-822-3851 allaboutcleaninginc.com Since 1975 â Insured & Bonded

Our #1 Goal Is Your Cleaning Needs Pet Friendly Cost Efficient Ask About Our Discounts For 1st Time Clients Call Sis at 314.852.9787

FREE PICK UP AND CASH PAID For Old Cars and Scrap Metal.

314-337-6730

RUSSIAN COUPLE Exceptional, Reliable, Efficient Serving All Your Cleaning Needs.

Weekly, Bi-wkly, Spring Cleaning, Move In/Out and More.

Luba 314-546-2860

BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES

A MAID OR TWO INC. Specializing in Residential, Office and Construction Final-Clean. 10 Years Experience, Insured and References.

Contact JoAnn 314-807-2780

COMPUTER SERVICES

CATERERS / EVENT PLANNING ECLECTIC CUISINE Catering Service for Small Parties

by Chef Paul Creative Menus Offered Chef Paul 314-607-9924 www.eclecticcuisinestl.com 72

feastSTL.com

ri

@

SEPTEMBER 2010

Service at your home: Transfer data to new PCs Fix problems with current PCs Day, evening, weekends available Call Mike at 636-675-7641 www.STLpcguy.com

The Total Floor Care Experts Since 1969

Free Estimates

(636) 458-2500 Kevin Amant Bob Glik

www.amantsfloorcare.com

 ou OF

ST. LOUIS COUNTY, LLC

Personal Concierge

Limited Only By Your Imagination!

When you need more than Wh 24 hours in a day,

call 314.994.1382 Licensed & Insured

I HELP YOU SAVE TIME! PERSONAL SHOPPING ERRAND SERVICE ORGANIZING

ALL ABOUT CLEANING, INC.

AUTOMOBILE & MOTORCYCLE STORAGE The Finest in Climate Controlled Storage Close to Clayton and Ladue 314-993-1330 or Kevin@stlouiscarmuseum.com

Business Opportunity in High Traffic Historic & Downtown Washington, Mo. This 3000+/- sq ft Building has served the Community for many years as a Restaurant. Equipment/ Furnishings still in place & could be Negotiated as part of sale. Includes Parking Lot w/approx 30 Parking Spots. $229,800. Call Bill Vedenhaupt, Coldwell Banker Premier, 636-231-3140

#'$ & ! " % &

For a full list of our services, please visit: www.AtYourServiceSTLCounty.com

APPAREL WHAT'S IN YOUR CLOSET? Let me sell the designer clothes and/or accessories that you no longer wear so you can update your wardrobe.

Sharon Pate (314) 651-8839 Sales: www.reFINEstyle.com Consultation: www.fetchingstyle.com

Conceirge/Errand Service

Call NOW to start claiming your time back!

Time buy Time 314-814-3078 www.timebuytime.com

ESTATE SALES Conducting Estate Sales and Serving our Clients for 30 Years.

Call for Free Consultation Today

HEIRLOOM

636-441-8802

www.heirloomestatesales.com

FINANCES ARE YOUR BOOKS IN A MESS? Personal or business help could be on it's way. 25 years experience.

Quickbooks savvy.

Affordable hourly rates.

Business Solutions & Consulting Services 314-409-4666

BANNERS & FLAGS

FREE DESIGN SERVICES DISCOUNTS AVAILABLE

BANNERS All All Occasions Occasions -- Any Any Size Size

Flags, Flags, Flagpoles Flagpoles Installation Installation

American Heritage 11062 Olive Blvd.

St. Louis, MO 63141

314-432-2101 amheritage.com

FOR SALE FOREVER BELLERIVE Single Crept, in Mausoleum, Outside, 4th Level. Includes: Funeral, Internment & Travel. Bargain Price.

314-878-9934

GUTTERS/ROOFING CLAYTON HEIGHT'S GUTTER & HOME EXTERIORS Specializing in Copper & Aluminum Guttering Soffit & Fascia Covering Insured & Small Jobs O.K. Paul Steinbrook 7568 Wise Avenue St. Louis, MO 63117 Tel: 314-971-2074 www.clayton-heights.com

HANDYMAN SERVICES HOUSE DOCTOR Powerwashing, Painting, Wallpaper Removal, Patio Design, Landscaping, Housecleaning, Organization, Etc. The Sure Cure, Finally A Doctor That Makes House Calls!

Joe 314-416-4645 MASTER ELECTRICIAN with 30 Years Experience.

No Job Too Small or Big. Guaranteed Low Estimate.

314-609-1015 Larry KEN'S HANDYMAN SERVICE Carpentry, Electrical, Plumbing, Painting, Gutter Cleaning and Hauling. Over 25 Yrs. Exp. Ref's. Insured.

Call Ken 314-567-6900

HEALTH/WELLNESS DR. DONNA SPENCER Serving 3 generations of St. Louis families with FAST, PRACTICAL and THOROUGH SOLUTIONS. Specializing in premarital counseling; marriage and family therapy; adolescent and child therapy; as well as individual depth psychotherapy.

Appointments at your home, if requested.

Please call 314.629.4292 to schedule an appointment.

STOP SMOKING In one hour I can teach you how to stop smoking – permanently.

No drugs, no gum & no gimmicks.

You can stop. $50.

Call 314-652-3300

NEW ERA SERVICE FOR SENIORS (NESS) Get the Personalized Care You Desire In Your Home!

MET-LIFE Certified. ïAssist with daily bathing & dressing. ïEscort and assist with outdoor and daily activities. ïHome cleaning and meal prepping. ïALS, Parkinson's, Alzheimer's, Etc. ïOne-on-one personal caregiving ïLive-in companion available.

License and Bonded Call Today for a Professional Assessment 314-323-3277 nes4s@yahoo.com

HOME IMPROVEMENT

GARAGE DOORS

Service & Maintenance Insulated and Non Insulated Garage Openers, Replace & Repair

Mike Copeland 314-265-4568 Fully Insured â All Work Guaranteed

STONE MASTERS

"A Reflection of Excellence" When you want your stone to show its true beauty choose the best.

Call: 636-561-3055 Email: stnwrksinc@aol.com Web site: stonemastersinc.org

Makers of Fine Furniture and Cabinetry

classiccarpentrystl.com

Kitchen Design and Cabinetry Options for every budget!

Tel: 314-862-0545 WOOD FLOOR REFINISHING 25-yr. Old Fully Insured Company.

Sanding, Refinishing, Repairs, New Installation. Free Estimates.

PROFESSIONAL FLOORS OF ST. LOUIS 314-843-4348 www.profloorstl.com REPAIR IT BEFORE YOU REPLACE IT Carpet Repaired, Restretched, Installed, New Carpet Sales, Large Selection in 2 Showrooms. Over 21 Years Experience. For Quote Call Nick 314-845-8049

LAWN & GARDEN

HEALTHCARE SERVICES PRIVATE DUTY Specializing in: Strokes, Alzheimer's, Diabetes, MS , Lou Garrison's and Hospice Patients. 24 HR Shifts.

Dependable, Personal, Errands, Cooking & Lt. Cleaning. Exp. Will Accommodate Nursing Homes & Live ins. Will Travel.

Call 314-429-6056

A Complete Landscape Service Cleanup, Trimming, Mulching Planting, Tie Walls and Stone Work.

Designing & Horticultural Services Family Owned & Operated Since 1963 Joe 314-909-1685 â Owner LLC Company, Insured & Bonded landscapebytheyard.com

LAWN & GARDEN

GRILL COMPANY

check out our website for special offers

www.bbqgrillco.com Masonry/Concrete

Complete Lawn Maintenance for Commercial & Residential Aeration, Overseeding, Seeding, Fertilizing, Sodding, Mowing, Spraying, Weeding, Pruning, Trimming, Planting, Brush Removal, Edging, Mulching, Retaining Walls, Paver Patios, & Drainage Work #1 in Quality, Service & Reliability.

Est. 1995 For a Free Estimate Call 314-426-8833 www.mplandscapingstl.com

Time for Some

Hard Work Yard Work Full Service Landscaping & Yard Maintenance FALL CLEAN UP • FALL PLANTING OF TREES, BUSHES

&

PERENNIALS

MULCHING • LEAF REMOVAL • LAWN MAINTENANCE INCLUDING OVERSEEDING, AERATION

&

FERTILIZATION • GUTTER CLEANING STONE WALLS, PATIOS

&

MICHAELS CONCRETE New & Replacement Driveways, Sidewalks, Patios, Etc. Including All Decorative Work Family Owned, BBB A+, Insured 314-738-9646

PAINTING MOUNTJOY DESIGNS

by Carey Johnson, Certified in Faux Finishing Techniques

by Decorating Masters Institute.

Call 314-966-6346 www.mountjoydesigns.net

PET SERVICES CREATURE COMFORTS GREAT & SMALL Pet/Rescue Therapy & Animal Rights Group Founder & his team of experienced pet care professionals provide TLC for your domestic & exotic pets serving entire St. Louis metro area.

Full range of services customized just for you and your pet.

Call Paul Flotron Today for a free initial consultation.

314-200-8561 CreatureComfortsGreatnSmall.com

SIDEWALKS

For Free Estimates call Keith at 314-422-0241 or e-mail at hwyardwork@aol.com

The Hard Work Yard Work Co. LLC since 2001

RICARDO'S OUTDOOR PROS Lawn and Landscape Service Mowing, Landscape Maintenance & Design, Retaining Walls, Paver & Concrete Patios, Free Estimates!!

314-280-2010 www.OutdoorProsOnline.com JOSE'S LAWN & LANDSCAPE Grass Cutting, Mulching, Retaining Wall, Tree Removal, Trimming Shrubs, Sod. Reasonable Rates.

Call Today for Your Free Estimate.

314-960-4203

The Well Behaved Pet ...is training for all YOUR

pets needs. Specialize in New Puppy, Puppy Mill Rescue Dogs or behavioral problems. I do home training to fit into YOUR lifestyle!

Call me, I can help!

Call LAURA 636-456-9993 Pick up & Delivery Available

Gutter Clean Out, Stone Floor Restoration • Window Cleaning • Power Washing Decks & Walkways • Roof Cleaning • Interior Auto Detailing

We do tough stuff for homeowners who care.

REAL ESTATE AGENTS LADUE SCHOOLS Newly Remodeled, 3BR, 1BA, Private Fenced in Patio. Prof. Putting Green.

Washer/Dryer. Two Car Garage.

Non Smoking.

Fully Furnished, complete with Cable, Internet, Phone, Linens, Cookware, Etc. $1500 314-993-5472

REAL ESTATE FOR SALE

A HUNTER'S DREAM

Lincoln County Investment Opportunity Reduced to $885k 3% Buyer/Agent Commission Bonus to Buyer's Broker $10,000 Conditional Upon Sale by September 30, 2010 Private Country Estate 66 ac, spectacular view Mississippi River Valley/IL Bluffs. 30 min.

NW STL Metro area off Hwy 79. Woods, creek, pasture, pond site, abundant wildlife.

Major Duck flyway, well maintained, 2 story home 3400 sf.

5BR, 3BA, 1400 sf fin LL w/2 add'l BR's, full bath, kitc. & FR, 2 screened porches overlooking bluffs. Second 2br home at entrance, perfect for caretaker/rent. Income from bottom tillable acreage. Add'l acreage avail. Duck lake potential.

Levee protected.

314-862-1126 FSBO

SERVICES HDTV & Satellite Entertainment Home Electronics' installation and equipment sales.

Integration of existing Theater gear.

Universal Remote programming.

Satellite XM/Sirius HD Radio installations/TV/Telephone system repair.

Fully insured and over 15 years of electronics experience.

The Right Connections 314-651-6279

Specials

Flue Relining

Brick Work Full Restoration

Call to schedule a complimentary home analysis

WHAT'S FOR DINNER? Dinner is Served, Personal Chef Service will Plan Menus, Grocery Shop and Prepare Meals in Your Home for You to Enjoy at Your Convenience.

Alison Brinker, Registered Dietitian 314-845-2709 ALLEN'S HAULING SERVICE 15, 20 and 30 Yard Trash Containers.

Hauling Service.

No Job Too Big Or Small.

Any Type of Trash Removal.

314-621-0481or 581-7274

TICKETS CARDINAL TICKETS Share Our Great Seats!

Seeking partners for our 3rd base suite, Diamond Box and Infield Box seats. Call Jen at 614-218-3884 www.SuitePartners.com Our Suite is available for your special event!

ALL TYPES TUCKPOINTING Serving St. Louis for over 40 years Mortar Color Matching Brick Cleaning Bricklaying Stone Work Power Washing Caulking Waterproofing & Sealing

MASSEY TUCKPOINTING & MASONRY Tuckpointing with color match.

Chimney, Brick & Stone Repair.

Cleaning & Caulking. BBB-A+ $50 off $500+ 314-486-3303

VACATION RENTALS GULF COAST HOUSE OR CONDO Carillon Beach, FL, Destin Area 3BR, 3BA, Beach House or Condo.

Carillon has 3 pools, tennis courts and so much more! Avail. thru 2010.

Call Dave at 314-922-8344 Great Rates.

For Pictures Please Visit www.vrbo.com/148365 or /127089

CABO FOR NEW YEARS! 2BR, 3BA, Sleeps 8, HDTV Satellite All Rooms, High Speed Internet Grandregina.com ph: 314-692-0227 5000/weekly, other weeks available for less REGENTS PARK LONDON Modern 2 Bedroom Apartment.

Convenient for Museums, Shopping, Theater. Highly Recommended!

Call 314-569-2009

ONE HOUR EAST OF ST. LOUIS 3BR, 2BA on 1 acre and 850 acre Lake, Swim, Fish, Water Sports.

900/mo. 314-692-0227

WANTED COLLECTOR WISHES TO PURCHASE Gun Collections â Old and New Antiques of Any Type Fishing Tackle Call Steve Lapin 314-571-9427



BBQ

Call Steve 314-452-7192



THE BACKYARD

Chimney Covers

www.englishsweep@att.com



Now Accepting Visa & MC

New custom grill covers for any outdoor grill!

CHESTERFIELD APARTMENT 2 bedroom, 2 bath in Four Seasons subdivision. Freshly painted with updated kitchen and bathrooms.

Appliances are included as well as garage parking. This is a lovely apartment in a great area that is close to restaurants, shopping & highways.

The rent is $775.00 per month.

Please call Eagle Realty Company to see this spacious abode.

314-421-1111

Tuckpointing

314.645.6496 636.391.2226



www.bbqgrillco.com

Remove Greasy Buildup & Harmful Carcinogens with our Steam Bath Process

REAL ESTATE FOR RENT

CHIMNEY SERVICES

Wet Wall Solution



check out our website for special offers & custom covers

Clean & Service Your Gas Grill

Call About

FAY FURNITURE 618-271-8200 AM



314-452-7192

AFTER

$ CASH 4 OLD STUFF $ ————Light Hauling———— We Cleanup, Haul Away and/or purchase: Garage, Estate and Moving Sales!

Also, Warehouse, Business & Storage Locker Leftovers!

Written Guarantee No Job Too Small Credit Cards Accepted Insured 

Call Steve Today!

BEFORE

TUCKPOINTING



Benefits: custom fitted to YOUR specifications durable materials to protect from harmful UV rays, moisture, freezing and thawing this winter, dust, dirt, bird droppings, etc.

ALL CRITTER CARE Grooming, Boarding, House Sitting, Home Visits & Day Care for Your Pet. Free Pickup and Delivery Insured & Bonded.

Angie's List Winner & PSI Member 314-631-6738 info@allcrittercarestl.com

SERVICES



with a NEW Custom Grill Island or Outdoor Kitchen Covers from The Backyard BBQ Grill Company

RENEW YOUR BBQ GRILL !

PET SERVICES

 

PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT

FOR A BEAUTIFUL LAWN You MUST Core-Aerate, Seed and Fertilize. Trim Shrubs, Mulch Beds.

Power Wash. Clean Out Cluttered Spaces and Haul Away Trash.

Curt's Lawn & Garden Services Call NOW! 314-686-2072



LAWN & GARDEN

DAN MILBOURN

CONSTRUCTION INC.

314-772-0190 314-771-7622 FAX

I BUY POSTCARDS! Stereoviews, Old Photographs, Documents, Letterheads, Movie Photos, Advertising, World's Fair, Railroad, Military, Political, Nautical & More.

Mike 314-524-9400 OLD RECORDS WANTED Experienced Collector Pays Cash for Your Record Collection.

45 RPM, 78 RPM and 33.3 RPM. Rock, Soul, Jazz. House Calls Made.

Call Kurt for info. 314-324-0521

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2010

73

puLL up a chair

aLODia cOuNTEr + Bar STOOL written by brandi Wills

This stackable stool from Cappellini by New York designer Todd Bracher may have a slender figure and a delicate aesthetic, but it’s surprisingly tough.

Created in metal tube and steel sheet with a laser-cut seat and black plastic feet, it stands up to long-term wear and is suitable for both indoor and outdoor use.

Available in two heights and offered in five colors, its versatility is as appealing as its ultra-modern design. $391 (counter height) or $494 (bar height); Centro Modern Furnishings, 4727 McPherson Ave., Central West End, centro-inc.com

Three local designers pick a perfect pairing for the stool: Sicilia 2-Top

“i wanted to choose something that would have functionality.

Janus et Cie makes the Sicilia 2-top table with a double indoor/ outdoor stainless top. it’s the perfect place for guests to put items such as car keys, small handbags or phones on the lower round area, out of the way of dining but close by for easy access.

Stainless also complements any color chair selected.”

Scott Tjaden, Tjaden Interiors $2,511; tjaden interiors, 4733 McPherson Ave., Central west end, tjadeninteriors.com

74

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER AUGUST 20102010

black and cleaR luciTe baR ReveRSe Table

“the reverse table from Andrew world is the perfect table in design, scale and function to complement the Alodia stool. it has two top options, a knife edge or a 2-inch profile edge, and a solid base that creates a grounding effect in comparison to the lightweight stool without overpowering it. the reverse color palette – black, white, red cayenne, chocolate and cement grey – works well with the Alodia stool, providing a well-stated, modernly designed table setting.”

“i selected this chic and sleek ’70s bar from Galerie Sommerlath because, visually, it doesn’t distract from the dramatic lines of the stool. i love Lucite, be it in ’40s- or ’70s-era design, because its transparency allows it to blend into any room without taking up visual space.”

David Deatherage, Century Design Ltd.

David Blakely, Niche Home Furnishings

$2,800; Century Design Ltd., centurydesignltd.com

$1,169; Niche Home Furnishings, 300 N. Broadway, Downtown, nichestl.com

PhotoGrAPhy Provided by 1StdibS

WITH MISSOURI'S LARGEST INVENTORY

"WHERE PRICE SELLS CARS"

INFINITI West County

SALES - SERVICE - PARTS - COLLISION REPAIR

15736 Manchester at Clarkson Rd. • (636) 391-9400 • 800-367-2289 • www.Bommarito.com Based On 2009 Sales Summery Infiniti Motor Division, Nissan North America

INTRODUCING

JEANSWEAR

Call 1-800-345-5273 for a Dillard’s location near you.