February 2012 FEAST Magazine

an umami flavor bomb

st. louis by the slice

tasting italy

colatura

perfect pizza

a chef’s tour

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

THE ITALIAN ISSUE

feastSTL.com | FEBRUARY 2012 | FREE

Have Fun Cooking!

Whatever your age, you’ll have fun in our small classes with our friendly, professional culinary staff. You’ll prep, chop, dice, cook, sauté, wine and dine during our hands-on participatory classes. Kids can also get in on the fun with a variety of cooking classes from Mom & Me to Spring Break classes. We’re also proud to offer a variety of private party options for festive occasions.

Give that special someone a foodie adventure in cooking with Schnucks Cooks Cooking School Gift Cards! Pick up gift cards at Schnucks Des Peres.

Each month, we feature a special Feast class taught in collaboration with our chefs and Feast publisher Catherine Neville. Check out the Feast classes and more at www.schnuckscooks.com!

Our Schnucks Cooks Cooking School culinary staff.

From left: Lucy Schnuck, Cheryl Herbert, Tory Bahn and Gay DeMichele.

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Inspired Food Culture

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Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

FEBRUARY 2012

from the staff

| 10 |

feaststl.com

What’s online this month.

| 12 |

from the PUBLISHER

Mangia, St. Louis!

| 14 | FEAST FAVES

Our staff and contributors share inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis.

COLUMNS

| 26 |

my stuff

Vincent P. Bommarito balances tradition at Tony’s.

| 29 |

gadget a-go-go

We put five zesters and graters to the test.

| 30 | ON THE SHELF

New and notable in beer, spirits and wine.

| 32 |

mystery shopper

Buy it and try it: colatura.

| 34 | TECH SCHOOL

We’re lifting the ban on smoking indoors.

| 36 |

how to

Master the art of the artichoke.

| 38 | EASY EATS

6

feastSTL.com

FEBRUARY 2012

Olive oil cake with blood orange coulis offers a sweet taste of the Mediterranean.

| 74 |

meet & greet

Fruit My Cube owner Rick Delashmit delivers better desktop dining.

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY of spaghetti aglio e olio (P. 32)

BY Jennifer Silverberg Table of contents photography BY

Jennifer Silverberg

JIM FIALA'S ITALY

42

52 Italian Wine REGIONS

55

pasta making 101 66

St. Louis by the SLICE

Inspired Food Culture

FEBRUARY 2012

7

Magazine Volume 3

| Issue 2 | February 2012

Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville Managing Editor Brandi Wills Online Editor Kristin Brashares Art Director Lisa Triefenbach Vice President of Advertising Donna Bischoff Copy Editors/Proofreaders Jill Pfeiffer, Andrea Mongler Contributing Writers Tory Bahn, Brandon Chuang, Russ Carr, Heidi Dean, Pat Eby Jim Fiala, Chad Michael George, Jennifer Johnson Angela Ortmann, Matt Seiter, Michael Sweeney Andrew Mark Veety, Cassy Vires Contributing Photographers Geoff Cardin, Jonathan Gayman, Gregg Goldman, Laura Ann Miller Jonathan Pollack, Jennifer Silverberg, Corey Woodruff Contributing Videographers Hannah Radcliff, Geoff Cardin Contributing Illustrator Derek Bauman

Contact Us Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor St. Louis, MO 63101 feastSTL.com Advertising Inquiries Kelly Klein, 314.340.8562 kklein@stltoday.com Editorial Comments editor@feastSTL.com

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com.

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright Š 2010-2012 by Feast Magazineâ&#x201E;˘.

All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.

A publication of Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC A Lee Enterprises Company

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Inspired Food Culture

FEBRUARY 2012

9

ONLINE CONTENT

www.feastSTL.com

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

The Feed

Online Exclusives

This Month’s Feast

Watch & Listen

Feast Events

Recipes

Homemade Pasta How-To: Stellina chef Jamey Tochtrop turns you into a pasta-dough pro with a stepby-step video. Get his tips and recipes on p. 55.

ONLINE FEATURES

Serve up a tasty N’awlins-style spread to celebrate Mardi Gras with recipes from St. Louis-area Cajun/Creole restaurants, including Highway 61 Roadhouse’s chicken and sausage gumbo (pictured). Want to hit the town? We’ve got a roundup of festivities, too. Photography BY J. Pollack Photography

Quite The Pair: Columnist Angela Ortmann pairs wines and beers with Italian dishes around town this month, starting with pizza at The Good Pie (pictured), which is featured in St. Louis By The Slice (p. 66).

Photography BY J. Pollack Photography

CONNECT WITH US Connect with us at facebook.com/feastSTL to stay on top of happenings at FEAST Central and connect with fellow foodies.

Scan this tag to LIKE us!

ONLINE FEATURES

Want to reap the sweet rewards of beekeeping? We bring you pointers for getting into the practice from the Eastern Missouri Beekeepers Association’s annual workshop.

Follow us at twitter.com/feastmag for up-to-the-minute restaurant news, special deals, FEAST events and more.

Scan this tag to FOLLOW us!

Get the free app at gettag.mobi

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2. Use a timer. Don't guess - that is the easiest way to ruin a steak. Avoid cutting into the steak to see if it is done; this causes all the juices to run out and your steak will be dry.

3. Try to avoid turning the meat too many times. Ideally, you should have one flip – two at most. Resist the temptation to touch the meat too much.

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FROM THE PUBLISHER

I

PS

FEAST EVENTS

Feast Your Eyes Sat., Feb. 4, 12:30 pm Complimentary, Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis

This free program invites you into the museum for a tasting prepared in response to the exhibitions, the artist, or specific artwork and paired with local wine and cocktails.

talian food is so ubiquitous that it’s easy to forget there’s a world beyond red sauce. Dig a little deeper, though, and you’ll discover flavors, textures and aromas you never knew existed.

Wine Tasting Thu., Feb. 16, 6 to 7pm; Acero Complimentary, rsvp@stlwinegirl.com

Join columnist Angela Ortmann for a food and wine tasting at Acero.

L’Ecole Academy Cake Decorating Class Sat., Feb. 18, 9am to 5pm, L’Ecole Academy

Flip through these pages and travel with restaurateur Jim Fiala as he eats and drinks his way across Italy, searching for flavors to bring to his restaurants back home (p. 42). Learn what distinguishes Italy’s most wellknown wine regions in Jennifer Johnson’s primer (p. 52). Inspired to try your hand at creating fresh pasta at home? Stellina’s Jamey Tochtrop shares his versatile pasta dough recipe and then walks you through all the delicious ways to use it (p. 55). And pizza? Andrew Mark Veety highlights styles from Naples to New Jersey that can be found right here in St. Louis (p.66).

$160, lecoleacademy.com or 314.264.1999

Learn how to create stunning cakes in this hands-on, in-depth class.

Bin 51 Tasting Wed., Feb. 22, 6pm; Bin 51 Complimentary, rsvp@stlwinegirl.com

Join Angela Ortmann and Bin 51 owner Brian Kuchta for a tasting at this new Edwardsville wine shop.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class When we started working on this, our Italian issue, we decided that we wanted to give you a peek into true Italian food culture, and then bring it home, to your kitchen and your neighborhood. I hope you enjoy this delicious issue and are inspired to explore all that the food and wine of Italy can bring to your table.

Until next time,

Catherine Neville

Wed., Feb. 22, 6pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $45, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Get hands-on and make the Italian feast featured on p. 38.

Feast Book Club Meet-Up Wed., Feb. 22, 6pm; Home Wine Kitchen RSVP to editor@feastSTL.com

Join us to discuss Home Made by Yvette Van Boven and enjoy complimentary hors d’oeuvres (and kitchen tips) from chef Cassy Vires.

Bring your from-scratch recipes to swap and compare. Purchase your copy of the book from Left Bank Books and receive 20 percent off.

Chandler Hill Guest Chef Dinner with Patrick Connolly Sat., March 10, 6:30pm; Chandler Hill Vineyards $89 per person, $30 wine-pairing option; 636.798.2675

Chandler Hill is serving up a rare treat this March: a dinner by James Beard Award-winning chef Patrick Connolly.

Oceania Luxury Culinary Cruise May 6 to 17, from $3,799 per person altairtravelinc.com or 314.968.9600

Join publisher Catherine Neville on a 10-day luxury cruise from Istanbul to Venice with ports of call ranging from Ephesus to Athens.

Cat’s Picks

feedback?

catherine@feaststl.com 12

feastSTL.com

FEBRUARY 2012

PHOTOGRAPHy by

Tune in as FEAST publisher Catherine Neville chats with host McGraw Milhaven and gives her weekly picks for the best places to eat and drink in the St. Louis area.

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Call Now for a Valentine's Day Dinner to Remember.

Chef Nate's Table offers private parties from romantic dinners to business meetings, with the ambience to match the occasion. All menus are 100% custom to your tastes, and Chef Nate is passionate about integrating local ingredients into a variety of dishes.

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MANCHESTER......................... Manchester Rd. E/141 across from Starbuck....................................636-391-8600 SUNSET HILLS ........................ Lindbergh & Watson near Home Depot..............................................314-821-5066 LADUE..................................... Ladue Rd. & I-170 next to Maggie Moo's...........................................314-726-5505 ST. PETERS ............................. 94 & Mid Rivers Mall Dr./94 Crossing ................................................636-928-9474 CHESTERFIELD VALLEY .......... Chesterfield Commons Near Lowe's..................................................636-519-8400 FENTON................................... Gravois bluffs/behind Walgreens.......................................................636-326-9972 SWANSEA ............................... Rte. 159/1 Blk. S. of Outback Steak House ........................................618-235-1969 Inspired Food Culture

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FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

ClevelandHeath

Cleveland-Heath, an eponymously named newbie in Edwardsville, serves carefully crafted yet incredibly approachable dishes, from hot sauce-spiked deviled eggs to Cheddar drop biscuits with prosciutto and cherry jam. The food has a Southern accent and a locavore sensibility: Rensing’s Pork and Beef supplies tender Berkshire pork chops, which are served with Cheddar-jalapeño bread pudding and sautéed green beans and spotlighted with a bright sunny-side-up egg.

Other favorites include a warming barley risotto with winter veggies and the kale salad, which is dressed with a lemon vinaigrette and crushed red pepper and given a bit of crunch with Parmesan crisps. Daily taco choices, a classic cheeseburger, even house-fried chips with black bean salsa are on the C-H menu, but save room for dessert. You’ll want to be sure to try the cherry pie with bourbon-maple ice cream. A satisfying end to an equally satisfying meal. – C.N. 106 N. Main St., Edwardsville clevelandheath.com

14

feastSTL.com

FEBRUARY 2012

Edwardsville

PHOTOGRAPHy by Corey Woodruff

an east-side star

618.307.4830

FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES | what we’re dRinking

Chilean Carmenère written by Jennifer Johnson

Carmenère was once a prominent blending grape in Bordeaux, but it was not replanted after two devastating 19th-century European vine scourges – largely because of its susceptibility to mold in wet conditions. It was transported to Chile in the mid-1800s and has thrived ever since in Chile’s dry and warm growing season. Interestingly, Carmenère was thought to be Merlot in Chile – it shares Merlot’s softness and plum fruit characteristics – but this was recently proved to be false. Carmenère boasts a powerful structure and potentially herbaceous nature similar to Cabernet’s, with its own robust profile of black cherries, baking spices and cocoa.

Errazuriz Carmenère, Single Vineyard 2009

Aconcagua Valley, Chile

This powerful full-bodied wine welcomes the nose with cigar box, rich black currants and sweet vanilla; a velvety texture introduces an elegance and lengthy finish marked by blackberries and freshly cut herbs. This is a nice value from Chile’s premier wine-growing region. Pair it with herb-crusted wild boar chops, mushroom flatbreads and Spanish Cabrales or Picón blue cheese. $18; Robust Wine Bar, 227 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, robustwinebar.com

Anakena Carmenère 2007

Rapel Valley, Chile

Featuring bright, ripe cherry and plum notes with a waft of tobacco, this Carmenère is meant to be drunk young and hasn’t seen much oak. It’s medium-bodied with softer tannins. Pair it with a pepper-crusted beef, bacon and arugula sandwich; gnocchi with Maytag blue and walnuts; or venison roast with rosemary and dried cherries. $8.49; Dean’s Liquor, 210 W. Main St., Collinsville, deansliquor.com

A St. Louis-based wine and food enthusiast, Jennifer Johnson is a sommelier, wine educator, journalist, and hospitality and marketing consultant who loves to celebrate life, family, food and wine.

Inspired Food Culture

FEBRUARY 2012

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FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

devilish delights

Starry lanterns sway and painted devils smile as you make your way to the salsa bar at Diablitos, where two bucks buys you access to some of the freshest salsa this side of the Rio Grande.

Pineapple, mango and melon each make an appearance, as does the standard pico. All are made each morning and very good, but if you’re daring, we suggest you try the signature habañero salsa. Agave nectar gives this yellow mix a sweet edge, but that sweetness gives way to serious heat in short order. Cut the heat with one of the cantina’s tequila cocktails and spoon whatever salsa you prefer atop Diablitos’ updated street fare. Tacos al pastor present pork that’s sweet and tender. The Baja tacos feature fish that’s crispy and topped with a cool, creamy slaw. Hominy is hot and given a bit of funk courtesy of crumbled white cheese. The nopal salad offers up fresh cactus tossed with jalapeño, tomato and onion. Fajitas, Mexican pizzas and Cuban-style tamales … the dishes here are hearty, fresh and full-flavored. – C.N. 3761 Laclede Ave., Midtown diablitoscantina.com

Diablitos Cantina 314.644.4430

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jonathan Gayman

Midtown

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FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES | FOOD STUFF

WHOOPIE PIES Some say these pastries are named after the exclamation of delight given when one is presented with the cream-filled cake sandwiches. It’s no surprise to us that whoopie pies are the treat du jour this February 14. – B.W.

a plump pie with light and airy layers

rich, flavorful cake with buttery filling

the classically sweet two-bite treat

| 1 | Chocolate-filled vanilla whoopie pie, $3 each; Colleen’s Cookies, 7337 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, colleenscookies.com | 2 | Red velvet whoopie pie, $1.50 each; Nadōz, 12 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, nadozcafe.com | 3 | Chocolate whoopie pie, $.71 each; Sugaree Bakery, 1242 Tamm Ave., Dogtown, sugareebaking.com PHOTOGRAPHy by Laura Ann Miller Inspired Food Culture

FEBRUARY 2012

17

Hwy 61 Roadhouse Pardi Gras 2012

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hendelsrestaurant.com "Most Romantic" in St. Louis by urbanspoon.com

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PIZZERIA

frontenac 63131

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10419 clayton rd. frontenac 314.569.0400

FEBRUARY 2012

Restaurant

17402 chester field airpor t rd. chesterfield 636.536.0000

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FEAST FAVES

| whAT we’re drinking

Negroni Story and recipe by Matt Seiter

Although the Negroni didn’t appear in print until 1955, its birth is rumored to have occurred at least 35 years earlier (the year and place vary, depending on the source). Dale Degroff’s book The Essential Cocktail dates the drink’s inception to around 1920 at the Hotel Baglioni in Florence, Italy. Legend has it a gentleman named Count Camillo Negroni asked the hotel bartender to make an Americano with gin instead of club soda. The drink became quite popular and was known as “the Americano in the fashion of Count Negroni” – later shortened to simply Negroni.

This is a strong drink – it’s all booze – that is lightly sweet and very bitter with a hint of orange from the Campari. Depending on the vermouth you use, you could also get notes of vanilla, cinnamon or other herbs and spices. The classic Negroni recipe calls for the ingredients to be poured into the glass over ice, garnished and served. No stirring, no shaking.

Served as it was originally intended, the drink is cool instead of cold and packs a strong punch in the beginning that fades as the ice melts. Stirring the drink creates a more balanced sipping experience throughout. My suggestion, though, is to try the classic way first and decide for yourself what your preference is. And I always tell my clientele not to judge a Negroni until after the fourth sip. Our palates aren’t used to its bold and constant bitterness, but after a few sips, the palate adjusts and lets the citrus and spice in the spirits come through.

Negroni 1 oz 1 oz 1 oz

Tanqueray No. Ten gin Cocchi Vermouth di Torino Campari lemon peel or orange peel

| Preparation | Fill a rocks glass with ice. Pour all ingredients in glass,

Laura Ann Miller

garnish with a lemon or orange peel and serve with a straw.

Americano

PHOTOGRAPHy by

½ oz 1 1½ oz

Cocchi Vermouth di Torino Campari club soda orange slice or lemon slice

| Preparation | Fill a Collins glass with ice. Pour the vermouth and Campari in the glass and top with soda. Garnish with an orange or lemon slice.

BARTENDER KNOWLEDGE The Bartender’s Cheat Sheet The Negroni provides a perfect example of how we bartenders learn so many drinks so quickly.

Let’s look at the components of the Negroni: gin, Campari and vermouth. There are three other great cocktails that can be made by changing only one ingredient. So, if you know the Negroni, you also know the Americano (club soda instead of gin); the Old Pal (Canadian whiskey instead of gin, according to The Savoy Cocktail Book); and one of my favorites, the Boulevardier (rye whiskey instead of gin, according to Barflies and Cocktails). Each varying ingredient transforms the drink into a new set of flavors and palate pleasers. And that principle doesn’t stop with the Negroni. For instance, the Margarita is a tequila version of the Sidecar, with lime instead of lemon and sugar mixed into the drink as opposed to on the rim of the glass. Once you learn these simple kinds of cocktail variations, your bartending knowledge will grow exponentially. – M.S. Matt Seiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program and a continuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft of mixology.

He is a member of Drink Lab and is the creator of the Sanctuaria Cocktail Club.

Old Pal 1 oz 1 oz 1 oz

Canadian whiskey Dolin Dry Vermouth Campari lemon peel

| Preparation | Mix all ingredients in a pint glass. Add crushed ice and a few whole cubes. Stir for 30 seconds and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Squeeze a lemon peel over the top and serve.

Boulevardier 1 oz 1 oz 1 oz

rye whiskey Cocchi Vermouth di Torino Campari orange peel

| Preparation | Mix all ingredients in a pint glass. Add crushed ice and a few whole cubes. Stir for 30 seconds and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Flame an orange peel over the top and serve.

Inspired Food Culture

FEBRUARY 2012

19

Gregg Goldman

FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES | THE DISH

Gregg Goldman

PHOTOGRAPHy by

Contributor’s Pick

No. 133:

Muc Chien Gion I’m still craving the food of Vietnam after traveling there a year ago. Every time I eat the Muc Chien Gion at Mai Lee, I think about sitting at a seafood stall in the Night Market by the harbor of Duong Dong on the island of Phu Quoc, eating fresh calamari, crab, shrimp, snails and sea urchin and drinking beer.

Muc Chien Gion is calamari that is quickly deep-fried and then tossed in the wok with white onion, scallions, crispy shallots, garlic and chiles. The sweet flavor of the calamari really comes through and is complemented by the sweet onion and mildly spicy chiles. It’s served with sliced tomatoes on a bed of crisp shredded lettuce accompanied by a fresh lime juice and black pepper dipping sauce.

This dish is true to its Vietnamese roots and is best enjoyed with a Vietnamese beer.

Mai Lee 314.645.2835 Brentwood See more of Gregg’s work in My Stuff (p. 26), and take a look back at his trip to Vietnam in our July 2011 digital issue at feastSTL.com.

20

feastSTL.com

FEBRUARY 2012

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FRI. FEB. 3, 5:30-9:30 PM ST. LOUIS CITY HALL

S T N E V E

Your ticket includes samples of wine from over 50 varietals of premiere vintners, beer from AB InBev, and TICKETS new this year, whiskeys from the IN ADVANCE Jack Daniels’ portfolio. Attendees also receive four food sampling tickets.

Additional food samples will be available for purchase at the event.

You must be 21 years of age or older to AT T H E attend this event.

$35

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SOULARD IN ST. LOUIS

JAN. 6-FEB. 21, 2012

CRYSTAL

Watch 20 of St. Louis' premiere professional and amateur chefs compete for the title of "Best Cajun/Creole Dish," all while sampling T I C K E T S delicious Cajun and Creole specialties and IN ADVANCE an open bar featuring Southern Comfort Hurricanes, Bud Light, and soft drinks. Additional food samples will AT T H E be available for purchase at the event.

$35

S AT . F E B . 4 , N O O N - 4 P M ST. LOUIS CITY HALL

$40 DOOR

FEAST FAVES

| shop-o-matic

Salume Beddu 314.353.3100

an artisan approach This quaint salumeria tucked into a sleepy strip mall on Hampton Avenue has become a cured-meat Mecca for chefs, foodies and simply anyone who admires artisinal cured meats since it opened in December 2009. Its mouthwatering salumi are handcrafted and aged on-site and are sold at the shop – as well as at select local farmers’ markets – along with a variety of basic Italian pantry staples, such as dried pastas, grains and beans, jarred sauces, olive oil and olives. The shop also offers a well-edited selection of fresh cheeses and a number of housemade condiments sold by weight, including giardiniera; sweet tomato jam; balsamic-onion sauce; and Mostarda di Beddu, a compote made of dried apricots, currants, cherries and figs, given a hint of tanginess from mustard seed and mustard powder and spiced with chile flakes.

Lindenwood Park

Co-owners Mark Sanfilippo and Ben Poremba have married their culinary heritages – Sanfilippo from a Sicilian family and Poremba a native of Israel – to create fascinating and flavorful products. Both men are philosophy majors who followed their passions for food and have since built a thriving business around their sausage shop, expanding to include catering, in-store events and lunch service Tuesday through Saturday.

“Our backgrounds in philosophy help us bring a critical analysis to the business” says Sanfilippo. “But sometimes we get carried away and spend far too much time sitting and arguing the specifics of food.” It’s those deliciously honed details that keep us coming back for more.

– B.W.

3467 Hampton Ave., Lindenwood Park salumebeddu.com

3 TASTY TREATS MARK SANFILIPPO RECOMMENDS TO NEWCOMERS: |1|

|2|

|3|

PHOTOGRAPHy by Laura Ann Miller

| 1 | Salame calabrese comes from Calabria, which is known for its spicy cuisine. Seasoned with cayenne, garlic, smoked paprika and coriander, Sanfilippo says it’s the spiciest sausage in the store. | 2 | Sottocenere is a lustrous truffle-laced cow’s milk cheese aged in ash that offers up a more full-bodied flavor than most truffle cheeses. Sanfilippo likes it paired with soppressata siciliano salame or as a pizza topping along with butter-braised leeks. | 3 | Fiama salsiccia is a rustic southern Italian fresh sausage that comes in robust links made with lots of fennel, garlic, Spanish smoked paprika and chile de arbol.

Sanfilippo suggests serving it with crusty bread and roasted red pepper or tossing it with orecchiette and rapini or kale.

Inspired Food Culture

FEBRUARY 2012

23

#1 Baby Back Ribs!

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Bring In This Ad For Half off a bottle of Wine from our Wine List Discount up to $30.

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24

feastSTL.com

FEBRUARY 2012

Call Today To Book Your Reservation 314-993-0735 www.kriesrestaurant.com 535 S. Lindbergh, St. Louis (Conveniently located 1/3 mile north of Highway 40/64 between Conway and Ladue Road)

FEAST FAVES

| what we’re buying

Pasta-Making Gear |1|

In this issue, chef Jamey Tochtrop of Stellina provides a step-by-step guide to making fresh pasta at home (p. 55), so we’re stocking up on some basic items – and a few fun extras – to get things rolling! – B.W.

|2|

|3|

|5|

|6|

|4|

| 1 | Pasta drying rack, $21.95; Crate & Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.com | 2 | Atlas 150 chrome pasta maker, $64.95; Crate & Barrel | 3 | Liquid round serving bowls, $49.99 each; cb2.com | 4 | Chef’n Ergosphere pasta tongs, $14.95; Sur La Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.com | 5 | Ravioli stamps, $6 to $7 each; Sur La Table | 6 | Stainless steel dough scraper, $6.95; Sur La Table | 7 | Sea measuring cups, $19; westelm.com

|7|

MY STUFF

Vincent P. Bommarito

Executive chef, Tony’s St. Louis written by Catherine Neville

What’s your first food memory? Sunday night dinners with my brothers, sisters, mom and dad. Mom would cook a big dinner and bake dessert. Sometimes my uncle Tony would show up. It was always the more the merrier.

What was it like growing up in a food family? I didn’t think much about growing up in a family that thought about good food constantly. Although my friends thought it was odd that I had veal sandwiches in my lunch box. Tell me about your new prix fixe dinners at Anthony’s. Three courses for $35 or $40. The last dinner’s first course was pasta envelopes with porcini mushrooms, housemade ricotta, asparagus and English peas. Second course was grouper with roasted corn and butternut squash. The third course was honey, lavender and vin santo-poached figs with honey ice cream. The next one is Feb. 2. What’s new at Tony’s? We are planning on changing up the menu this year. Focusing more and adding the seasonal items that are verbal specials to the printed menu. I want to mix it up. I said that to a longtime customer last week and he immediately told me to be sure to keep his favorites. It’s a balancing act. How do you manage to preserve the past but still evolve when running a restaurant with a history like Tony’s? Tony’s has evolved over the past 60 years and we will continue to do so. We are challenged with the “casualization” of fine dining and having the reputation of being a special occasion destination. We have relaxed the dress code and want people to realize that it doesn’t have to be a birthday or anniversary to have a great time here. What’s in your fridge right now? Not much. I have some beer, some wine and a lot of condiments.

Red or white? Sparkling, white and red. I like them all if they are made well, but if I had to choose one I would go with red. Chocolate or vanilla? Chocolate – the darker the better.

After a long night in the kitchen, what do you drink? After a long night, just two words: Ketel One! What would be your last meal? My mom’s chicken and dumplings, and good bottles of Champagne and red wine. Why not do both if I won’t wake up with a hangover?

26

feastSTL.com

FEBRUARY 2012

Tony’s St. Louis 410 Market St., Downtown 314.231.7007 tonysstlouis.com Visit feastSTL.com to read the full interview with Vincent P. Bommarito.

PHOTOGRAPHY By Gregg Goldman

Tony’s is a St. Louis institution. When St. Louisans are asked to name our city’s top Italian restaurants, the list will certainly include mention of this venerable bastion of classic Italian cooking. Its long history makes Tony’s a household name, but executive chef Vincent P. Bommarito knows that his menu must honor tradition while innovating to keep things fresh. “There are items that I could never change like Lobster Albanello and a few others,” he says. “But times change and menus should change, too.”

BUY T

StLM

SOUTHERN COMFORT

S AT . & S U N . , F E B . 1 1 – 1 2

11:00 AM – 5:00 PM SOULARD ESTABLISHMENTS Several of Soulard’s fine establishments offer samples of their T I C K E T S signature dishes in this unique, create your own experience event. Attendees are able to stroll though Soulard using the seven taste tickets from the ticket booklet to sample six signature dishes and one taste of Southern Comfort from the participating restaurants and pubs of Soulard.

Attendees are welcome to use the free trolley service on Saturday from 11:00am – 5:00pm or walk the neighborhood on Saturday and Sunday. Veterans of this event enjoy creating their own pub crawl.

$25

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ON W US Gras F O L L O k @STLMardi s #STLMG

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gadget a-go-go

Put to the test

ZESTERS GRATERS

|3|

|2|

AND

|4|

|5|

|1|

written by Pat Eby

Photography by Laura Ann Miller

|1|

Microplane Classic Series Zester/Grater PROS

This no-nonsense zester/grater began life as a woodworking tool.

The speediest grater for shaving hard cheeses to wispy shreds.

Peppercorns in the pecorino didn’t slow the Classic down a beat. Sharp enough to quickly grate nutmeg fine. The supersharp surgical-grade stainless steel blade comes with a clever plastic cover. Dishwasher-safe.

A sentimental favorite.

CONS

Zest clings to the back of the blade and must be scraped off. Some gets trapped in the wraparound edge too.

The handle is hunky enough to fit hands, but raised letters on the hard plastic make the grip a bit prickly over time. $12.99; Bertarelli Cutlery, 1927 Marconi Ave., The Hill, bertarellicutlery.com

|2|

|3|

Zyliss Contour Grater PROS

The unique contour shape of the platform makes finding a good working angle easy. Straight up, tipped back, horizontal over a bowl or flat on the table, the two rubber feet held fast. Different-sized holes – large squares on one half and tiny ovals on the other – give options to grate soft cheeses and vegetables too.

Best ginger grater of the bunch, with minimal juicing. Grates perfect zest – no pith from any citrus, including thin-skinned limes.

CONS

Neither the packaging nor the website gives any information about materials or care instructions for this grater. The convex shape of the grating screen makes drawer storage iffy. Think hanging storage. $8.09; DiGregorio Italian Foods, 5200 Daggett Ave., The Hill, digregoriofoods.com

Oneida Oval Shaped Multi Purpose Grater PROS

Oneida rethought the box grater and came up with a new twist on the old favorite with a sleek oval shape. Three grate sizes – coarse, fine and powdery fine – make it a one-grater-fits-all gadget for the space-challenged.

The soft rubber top grip provides a comfortable hold, while the rubberringed bottom holds the grater solidly to the counter. Dishwasher-safe, too.

CONS

The newfangled oval has the same issue old square box graters do: Mainly, the cheeses and zest cling to the back rather than falling to the bottom. Not the fastest grater of the bunch either.

|4|

|5|

OXO Good Grips Medium Grater

Microplane Artisan Series Fine Grater

PROS

The holes in this grater cut bidirectionally. Up and down, down and up – no movement is wasted.

The ergonomically angled soft-grip handle feels cushy in hand and keeps wrists straighter during grating. Hard cheeses came off in long, very fine threads that stayed lofty on salads and over pastas.

CONS

The rubber footing strip on the back tended to slip on the counter surface for straight up or angled grates.

Nutmeg didn’t grate in uniform sizes.

Big and little specks interspersed with fine powder when the dust settled. $10.99; K-Mart, multiple locations, kmart.com

$9.59; Sears, multiple locations, sears.com

PROS

If fine, powdery cheese that melts into sauces and pastas makes your mouth smile, this grater’s the one to pick. At first test, the screen seemed a little flimsy, but the spring in the steel works to pare the thinnest scrapes from Parmigiano-Reggiano and fat lemons. Nutmeg razor-cuts to cloudlike piles of spice, lighter in color than cuts from all other graters. The Artisan Series comes in four screen hole sizes and multiple colors.

CONS

This fine grater works so beautifully that trying all four sizes is a mighty temptation. Forced to buy more gadgets. Luckily, you can tell them apart at a glance by the colors. $9.95; Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, kitchencopia.com

C h ec

k pa g o u t e

55!

W h at to l oo k for : Grating blade or screen: Check for sharp edges, a sturdy build, teeny holes and a generous platform to grate hard cheeses, chocolate, ginger and nutmeg with ease.

and handles should be sturdy too. Screens should fit flush in the paddle-type graters with no raised edges to catch gratings or hold water after cleanup.

Handles and footings: Fight hand fatigue with stout, cushy grips that fit comfortably in the palm. Look for rubber or nonslip rests to keep graters steady. When pinkies push close against a knife-keen surface, the added security matters.

Cleanup and storage: Some graters come with a handy cover, a nice feature to keep cutting edges honed and knuckle scraping to a minimum. Most paddle and rasp graters have a hole in the handle for hanging too. Box graters now come in space-saving shapes and fold-down models for easier storage.

Graters should be hand-washed immediately after use. Some are dishwasher-safe, but not all.

Materials: Stainless steel blades/screens register hands-down best for razor-sharpness and rust-free maintenance. Housings

Zest and grate to your heart’s content when flavoring and finishing the incredible dishes in our Pasta Making 101 feature.

Inspired Food Culture

FEBRUARY 2012

29

ON the shelf

BEER written by Michael Sweeney

The creator of STLHops.com and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the craft beer manager at Lohr Distributing.

Cathedral Square Brewery’s Belgian Abbey Ale STYLE: Dubbel (6.5% abv) AVAILABLE AT: The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com; $3.99 (22-oz bottle) Pairings: Boeuf bourguignon • Chocolate éclair

While American breweries have the freedom to brew almost anything, certain styles seem to be done better by their home countries. However, with its dark complexion and figgy aroma and flavor, Cathedral Square Abbey Ale is a Belgian-style beer that stands among the best beers coming from Belgium.

Deschutes Brewery’s Black Butte Porter STYLE: American Porter (5.2% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Randall’s, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $2.99 (22-oz bottle) Pairings: Smoked beef brisket • Gouda

While beers from many East Coast breweries have seemingly eluded us in St. Louis, we’re seeing some major love from our friends out west.

Deschutes, out of Bend, Ore., has been brewing beer for more than 20 years. With Black Butte’s velvety mouthfeel, notes of chocolate and enticing complexity, it’s not difficult to see why it is Deschutes’ flagship brand.

Green Flash Brewing’s Rayon Vert STYLE: Belgian-Style Pale Ale (7% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Friar Tuck, multiple locations, friartuckonline.com; $9.39 (four-pack, 12-oz bottles) Pairings: Pad Thai • Grilled grouper

Even saying the word “brettanomyces” will send shivers up a winemaker’s or brewer's spine. Brett is a weird and funky yeast strain that is difficult to get rid of once it’s in your brewery or winery.

But it also adds a fantastically complex and intriguing flavor that provides earthy funkiness with a bit of fruitiness and helps make Rayon Vert a unique and wonderful beer.

SPIRITS written by Chad Michael George

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

IXÁ Organic Silver Tequila Provenance: Mexico (40% abv) Available at: The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com; $36.99 Try it: Neat or slightly chilled with a squeeze of lime

IXÁ is one of the most balanced and smooth silver, or unaged, tequilas on the market. On top of purchasing a simply great-tasting, Earthfriendly product, you can take comfort in knowing that Greenbar Collective, the company that produces and imports IXÁ, plants a tree for every bottle of spirits sold.

Woodford Reserve Master’s Collection Rare Rye Selection Provenance: Kentucky (46.2% abv) Available at: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $84.99 Try it: Neat, side by side, to compare the two

Every year Woodford releases a limited-availability bourbon. This year it released a pair of rye whiskeys: a New Cask Rye and an Aged Cask Rye. The New Cask is aged in new American oak barrels. The Aged Cask is aged in previously used barrels, resulting in a slightly underaged whiskey. Considering both whiskeys started from the same distillate, it's fun to compare how the different aging processes affect their flavors.

Johnny Drum Private Stock Bourbon Provenance: Bardstown, Ky. (50.5% abv) Available at: Lukas Liquor Superstore, 15921 Manchester Road, Ellisville, lukasliquorstl.com; $29.99 Try it: In a Manhattan or with a few rocks

The Old Bardstown Distillery brings quite a few products to our area, but none offers a better bang for the buck than the Private Stock bourbon. The Johnny Drum is charcoal-filtered, which is unusual for bourbon. The result is a smooth and slightly sweet whiskey with notes of nutmeg and caramel corn on the palate. At $30 retail, this may be my new favorite go-to bourbon.

OUR TOP PICKS FOR FEBRUARY Pouring wine photography by ©iStockphoto.com/Lauri Patterson

WINE written by Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann shares her passion for all things epicurean through her event and consultation business, which is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.

Waters Cappella 2009 Provenance: Walla Walla Valley, Wash.

Available at: Lukas Liquor Superstore, 15921 Manchester Road, Ellisville, lukasliquorstl.com; $39.99 Pairings: Filet mignon • Halibut • Chicken piperade

Inspired by the winemaker’s love of the famous Cheval Blanc of Bordeaux, this combination of Cabernet Franc and Merlot puts a fruitforward spin on an Old World blend known for its herbaceous earthiness. Undertones of chocolate and leather provide subtle richness, and perfectly integrated tannins create an elegance unmatched by most other Washington state reds.

Quivira Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Provenance: Dry Creek Valley, Calif.

Available at: 33 Wine Shop & Tasting Bar, 1913 Park Ave., Lafayette Square, 33wine.com; $19.99 Pairings: Goat cheese tarts • Ahi salad • Pesto chicken

Spring will be here before we know it, and a bounty of fresh greens will follow suit. The vibrant fruit and crisp acidity of Sauvignon Blanc are the ideal match for the season’s vegetables and herbs. Fig and date notes on the palate are balanced by a mouthwatering citrus zest finish.

A slight touch of oak fills out the wine and makes it a great fit for richer seafood dishes as well.

Vinchio Vaglio Serra Valamasca Moscato d’Asti Provenance: Piedmont, Italy Available at: Bottle Cellars, 6039 Telegraph Road, South County, bottlecellars.com; $13.99 Pairings: Triple-crème cheeses • Fresh fruit • Hazelnut desserts

Moscato has been making a huge comeback in the last year. Finding the perfect balance of bubbles and sugar is essential when selecting a bottle. This delicately sweet choice from northwest Italy is full of tantalizing aromas of peaches and lush notes of honeysuckle. It works well as an aperitif or postmeal dessert sipper.

Join Angela Ortmann and FEAST publisher Catherine Neville for a happy hour wine tasting at Acero on Thu., Feb. 16, at 6pm.

RSVP to rsvp@stlwinegirl.com.

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mystery shopper

Spaghetti Aglio e Olio

By Mark Sanfilippo, Salume Beddu

Serves | 4 to 6 |

1 lb ½ cup 3 cloves 1 pinch ½ cup 1/3 cup

1 1 to 2 tsp

good-quality imported Italian spaghetti olive oil garlic, sliced lengthwise red chile flakes, plus more for garnish reserved pasta water chopped flat-leaf parsley lemon, juiced and zested colatura, to taste

| Preparation | Bring cold water to boil in a large pot.

Salt the water and add spaghetti. Cook according to directions on package. Reserve ½ cup pasta water before draining. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, combine olive oil, garlic and red pepper flakes. Heat over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the garlic softens and turns golden, about 8 to 10 minutes. Add pasta water and heat through. Add cooked pasta to the skillet. Toss with parsley, lemon juice and lemon zest. Remove from heat and divide into bowls.

Drizzle with colatura. Serve with extra red chile flakes on the side

Visit feastSTL.com for more recipes featuring colatura.

Though legend has it the Italian explorer Marco Polo brought the idea of pasta back to his native country after experiencing the ubiquitous noodles of Asian cuisine, Italians were slurping pasta well before his 13th-century takeout run. And noodles weren’t the only familiar fare Polo was likely to have tried on his trip. Many Asian countries have their own versions of fish sauce, and since at least early Roman days, so has Italy. It’s called colatura.

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Feast extra

written by Russ Carr

What is it?

How do I use it?

Colatura is, basically, fish juice. More elegantly,

Colatura is made with the simplest of

it’s the essence of Mediterranean anchovies,

ingredients, using a time-honored, traditional

extracted by a centuries-old practice. Wood

method. The fish used to make it have an

casks called terzigni are filled with alternating

equally simple, equally traditional use. Where

layers of sea salt and anchovies, and then

you would normally find anchovies, you can use

the top of the cask is weighted with stones,

colatura. Drizzle it on pastas, pizzas, or grilled

creating a gentle pressure on the fish and

or roasted fish, or use it to add a salty punch to

salt. After five months to a year, a small hole is

sauces and dressings.

drilled in the bottom of the cask, and the rich reddish-brown essence drains out, drop by

Just be sure to go easy on the colatura – it’s

drop. This pungent, oily sauce is an umami flavor

potent and pungent. You don’t need to use it as

bomb – all the rich, fishy flavor of hundreds of

sparingly as, say, Tabasco, but you don’t want to

anchovies in a few precious ounces.

blow the doors off with anchovy overload either.

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jennifer Silverberg

MEET: Colatura

check it out!

tECH SCHOOL

Indoor Cold Smoking STORY AND RECIPE BY Cassy Vires

Smoked foods are generally associated with barbecue and thus with summer. What you may not know is there are two types of smoking: hot and cold. The difference between the two is that hot smoking cooks the food – as is done in barbecue – whereas cold smoking only imparts smoky flavor to the food, leaving it raw to be prepared as you see fit. Cold smoking can be done outdoors and indoors, but since outdoor conditions make controlling the temperature of the smoke difficult, we’re focusing on indoor methods that can be used year-round.

The ideal temperature for cold smoking is between 70ºF and 80ºF; however, heartier meats such as pork, lamb, chicken and venison can be taken to 100ºF without beginning the cooking process.

Since they are smoked for a long period of time at low temperatures, only meats that have been fermented, salted or cured – to prevent bacteria from forming – should be cold smoked. The high salt content of a traditional brine makes it an easy method for salting meat before it’s smoked.

Cold-smoking chambers are typically built with long tubes and pipes that allow the hot smoke from the heated wood chips to be cooled before reaching the food. This principle can be achieved inexpensively at home on your stove top.

| 1 | Place soaked wood chips in a deep metal pan, cover with foil and heat on the stove top until smoke forms. Carefully remove the foil and | 2 | place a perforated, ice-filled pan over the smoking wood chips, | 3 | followed by a perforated pan with the meat in it. Reduce the heat to low and allow the meat to smoke for up to four hours. | 4 | Periodically check the heat of the top pan with an instant-read thermometer. If the temperature approaches 100ºF, add more ice or remove the pan from the heat and allow meat to sit in the residual smoke.

If you’re looking for a still-simpler method, consider cheating.

Heat the soaked wood chips on the stove top in a metal pan.

Place a cooling rack or perforated pan on top, add the meat, cover and remove from the heat. Smoke the meat for only 15 minutes. This will impart a much lighter smoky flavor than the other two methods, but it is quick and easy.

Cassy Vires is the owner and chef of Home Wine Kitchen. She received her culinary training in Houston and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes.

COOKING VIDEO!

Watch chef Cassy build an indoor smoker step by step.

Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone (get the free app at gettag.mobi), or watch the video in the Watch & Listen section at

feastSTL.com.

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Cold-Smoked Pork Tenderloin with Bourbon-Maple Glaze Serves | 4 | Brine 2 cups 1 cup ¼ cup ¼ cup 1/8 tsp 2 cups

apple cider water kosher salt dark brown sugar ground cinnamon ice

Cold-Smoked Pork

2

2 cups

2 cups

2 Tbsp

pork tenderloins, 1 lb each, cleaned apple wood chips, soaked in cold water for 30 minutes ice salt and freshly ground black pepper olive oil

Bourbon-Maple Glaze

4 oz 2 oz 10 oz 1 tsp

bourbon dark molasses maple syrup, grade B light brown sugar

| Preparation – Brine | Combine the cider, water, salt, sugar and cinnamon in a medium pan and bring to a boil. Cook until the sugar and salt are dissolved. Add the ice and refrigerate until cold.

| Preparation – Cold-Smoked Pork | Pour the brine over the pork and refrigerate for no less than 1 hour and no more than 8 hours.

Remove pork from the brine, plate and set on the counter until brine has evaporated. Cold smoke the tenderloins using the wood chips and ice, employing whichever technique works best for you. Once the tenderloins have been cold smoked, they can be either immediately cooked or refrigerated for up to 2 days before cooking.

To cook, preheat the oven to 400ºF. Season the tenderloins generously with salt and pepper.

Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high and sear the pork on all sides. Transfer to the oven, and roast to desired doneness. Remove pork from the oven and rest for 10 minutes before slicing and serving.

| Preparation – Glaze | Combine all ingredients in a small pan and bring to a boil. Stir until sugar is dissolved, remove from heat and keep warm until ready to serve.

| To Serve | Place tenderloins on a serving platter, slice and drizzle with glaze. Serve with roasted brussels sprouts and mashed sweet potatoes.

|1|

|2|

PHOTOGRAPHY by Jennifer Silverberg

|3|

|4| Inspired Food Culture

FEBRUARY 2012

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how to

how to

PREPARE AND EAT AN ARTICHOKE written by Brandon Chuang

Knowing how to properly eat an artichoke is not as common as you’d think. Just ask the Miami M.D. who filed a lawsuit last year against a national restaurant chain for “fail[ing] to explain the proper method of consuming an artichoke.”

Apparently the good doctor ate the artichoke in its entirety, which resulted in an unscheduled trip back to work. In three easy steps, we’re demystifying this seemingly complicated veggie – from cleaning to cooking to eating – so you don’t choke when you step up to the dinner plate.

Prep It There are a lot of petals on an artichoke, which means a lot of opportunities for dirt to collect in cracks and crevices. A soak in warm water for a few minutes should get rid of the hidden dirt and grime. A good rule of thumb for trimming produce is to remove anything you can’t eat and anything that might hurt you. Subscribing to this mantra, take a knife and cut off the top few inches of the artichoke as well as the stem at the base. | 1 | Next, grab some kitchen shears and trim off the sharp points of the leaves.

COOK It There are a variety of ways to cook an artichoke, but we’re partial to the classic Italian method of steaming.

Simply cover the bottom of a pot with water, bring the water to a simmer, place the artichoke in a steamer basket in the pot and cover. Steam the artichoke until the petals come away easily from the base, normally 30 to 45 minutes depending on the size of the artichoke. Once done, plate the artichoke and prepare for the fun part: eating it.

eat It When cooked properly, the petals of a whole artichoke will bloom slightly – think of it as Mother Nature’s version of those fried onion blossoms you find in chain steakhouses, but, you know, healthier.

Grab a single petal, and strip it away from the rest of the artichoke. | 2 | Look inside and you’ll notice a distinct, pale, meaty flesh at the base of the petal – that’s what you eat. Whether it’s plain or dipped (see suggestions below), place the base of the petal in your mouth, and use your teeth to scrape the flesh away.

Discard the remaining petal and head back for more.

Once the petals are gone, you’re left with what looks to be a picked-over artichoke. But don’t scrap it just yet because the best part is yet to come. The fuzzy, fibrous cap atop the remnants is known as the choke, and needs to be discarded. | 3 | This can be done with the simple scoop of a spoon (a grapefruit spoon would be perfect). Once the choke is removed, you’re left with a soft, juicy center – the heart. Slice it into pieces and savor its creamy texture and fresh flavor.

Do the Dip

Illustration by Derek Bauman

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FEBRUARY 2012

While you can enjoy an artichoke plain, with melted butter or with a light drizzle of olive oil, try making something savory to dip the petals in. And wouldn’t you know it: The only thing easier than cooking an artichoke is preparing a dipping sauce.

Simply start with your favorite mayonnaise and mix in whatever chopped herbs and spices you have on hand. Garlic and parsley are common ingredients, but try balsamic vinegar, Dijon mustard, dill or curry powder when creating your own flavor combinations.

Let us know what you think.

Schlafly no. 20, Volume 4 Southern Hemisphere IPA

Southern Hemisphere IPA is created by the fourth generation of Schlafly brewers-Augie, Brennan, Derek, Drew, Emily, James and Jared. This beer encompasses the most recent generation's love of all things beer and their desire to constantly try new ingredients and methods. This IPA is kettle-hopped and dry-hopped with a unique hop from Tasmania, called Galaxy.

This strong, aromatic hop is distinctly different from traditional Pacific Northwest varieties. Enjoy the last brew in our 20th anniversary series!

2009 La Massa Toscana

The 2009 La Massa flows from the glass with layers of freshly cut flowers, dark red berries and subtle French oak.

This radiant red from Chianti Classico's famed Conca d-Oro impresses for its open personality and inner palate juiciness. This is a striking wine form La Massa and proprietor Giampaolo Motta.

In 2009 Motta opted for relatively short fermentations fo 12-15 days for his Sangiovese.

The blend was 70% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019.

Vineyards Wine & Spirits

17223 Chesterfield Airport Rd. Chesterfield, MO 63005

90 Points The Wine Advocate

636-519-WINE www.vineyardswine.com

(ABV: 5.47%, Bitterness Units: 31.4 IBUs, Color: 5.3, Original Gravity: 12.8 degrees Plato)

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Italian American Cuisine "Clasual" - where classy atmosphere meets casual prices on the Hill Nightly Dinner Specials Live Music on Friday Nights Private Parties & Catering

5800 Southwest Ave. St. Louis, MO 63139 (314) 932-1144 www.tuscantavernandgrill.com

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Ask the Chef February 14th, 2012 Join us for a romantic Valentine's evening. Fin is offering a special dinner for two at $50 that includes two drinks, two maki roll (up to $13 per roll), one dessert.

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©9:N 913 M97 917 —f7OK ›7f5 ‡f73KN5L We’ve been cranking out St. Louis’ Finest Po-Boy’s & Muffuletta’s for a few years now, and I invite you to come join us.

Sat., Feb. 4th • 1 p.m. - 3:30 p.m.

4th Annual King Cake Party with The Funky Butt Brass Band "Who's Gonna get da baby?"

Thurs., Feb. 16th • 6 p.m. - 8 p.m.

Mardi Gras Thursday Night House Party

with Matt Hill & The Deep Fried Two

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� Blues City Deli �

2438 McNair • St. Louis, MO 63104

314-773-8225

www.bluescitydeli.com

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37

EASY EATS

A mediterranean TREAT STORY and Recipe by Tory Bahn

|1|

Olive oil is most commonly associated with savory applications. However, in Mediterranean cuisine it often replaces butter in baking and can be found in a number of sweet recipes. Olive oil cake has roots in the Mediterranean, with lore that it is native to both Portugal and Italy. It is often served at breakfast or as an afternoon treat. The fruit essence of olive oil pairs well with the blood oranges used in this coulis recipe, as blood oranges are grown in the Mediterranean. The flavor of this cake can range from mild to bold depending on the particular oil you choose, and its light and spongy nature makes it a perfect ending to a heavy Italian meal.

Serves | 8 to 10 | Coulis

4 to 5 ¼ cup 3 Tbsp 1 Tbsp

|2|

blood oranges, peeled fresh blood orange juice sugar fresh lemon juice

Cake 1½ tsp

¾ tsp

1¼ cups ¾ cup

5

1 cup

6 oz 1½ Tbsp 1½ Tbsp

orange zest salt, divided, plus more to top batter cake flour sugar, divided eggs, separated and reserved extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing pan evaporated milk orange juice sugar for sprinkling

| Preparation – Coulis | | 1 | Purée all ingredients in a blender or with an immersion blender until smooth and slightly thickened. Chill in refrigerator.

|3|

|

CHEF’S

| Preparation – Cake | Preheat oven to 350ºF. Whisk the orange zest and ½ tsp salt with cake flour. In a separate bowl add ½ cup sugar to 5 egg yolks and beat on high with an electric mixer until mixture is thick and pale, about 3 to 4 minutes. | 2 | Reduce speed to medium and add olive oil, evaporated milk and orange juice. Mix until just combined.

Gently stir in the flour mixture with a wooden spoon until just combined. Set aside. Thoroughly clean beaters.

In another large bowl, beat remaining salt and 4 of the reserved egg whites on medium-high speed until foamy.

Slowly add ¼ cup sugar to the egg whites, | 3 | and continue beating until the whites just hold a soft peak, about 3 minutes. Gently fold 1/3 of the whites into the yolk mixture. Gently fold in remaining whites until well-incorporated.

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Sprinkle 1½ Tbsp of sugar over the top of the batter. Bake 40 to 45 minutes or until top is golden-brown and a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. A crackly crust will form on the top of the cake. Cool in the pan on a rack for 10 to 15 minutes.

Run a paring knife around the edge to release and remove side of springform pan. Cool to room temperature. Sprinkle with additional sugar if desired.

| To Serve | Drizzle coulis lightly around whole cake, or, if serving individual slices, pour coulis onto dessert plates and place cake slices atop coulis.

|

Measuring up. When baking, make sure all ingredients are measured out before you start mixing. Baking is a science, and combining ingredients at the wrong time can change your final product. For example, when beating eggs with sugar, make sure you don’t let the sugar sit with the eggs for any amount of time. Sugar will affect the eggprotein coagulation and in a sense begin to cook the eggs, potentially changing the cake’s consistency.

PHOTOGRAPHY by Jennifer Silverberg

Grease a springform pan with some olive oil. Line the bottom with a round of parchment paper, and brush paper with oil. Pour batter into the pan and lightly tap to free any air bubbles.

The cake’s namesake. When choosing olive oil for this dish, consider your options. Virgin or regular olive oil will produce a milder flavor in the cake, while extra-virgin oil will provide a more noticeable olive oil flavor. If you are showcasing your olive oil in this cake, choose a high-quality extra-virgin oil to yield a more distinct flavor.

JOIN US! rsvp: schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Join FEAST and Schnucks Cooking School on Wed., Feb. 22 at 6pm to make the tasty dishes in the menu above.

Tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RSVP at schnuckscooks.com.

Check out feastSTL.com for a step-by-step slide show on making this monthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dish.

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41

IALA'S F IJ M

Tour the lush valleys and romantic cities of Italy as we follow St. Louis chef Jim Fiala and his wife, Melissa, on a delicious adventure through some of the country's illustrious wine regions.

Story and Photography by Jim Fiala

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aLL PHOTOS: ROME | lAST PHOTO in FIRST ROW: nINO'S | SECOND PHOTO in SECOND ROW: aPEROL sPRITZ | LAST PHOTO in SECOND ROW: 1995 cLERICO bAROLO AT iL CONVIVIO

DAY 1: I arrive in Rome exhausted, once again having been unable to sleep on the flight from New York. My wife, Melissa, and I quickly find our bus and meet our driver for the trip, Luigi, who keeps an espresso machine on board. After the rest of the group shows up, we pile on the bus and Luigi navigates the tiny streets of a country built centuries before man conceived of our modern transportation.

We check into the Hotel Lloyd, and Mel and I are off to explore the City of Seven Hills.

We walk past, through and over cobblestone streets to the Spanish Steps, then along the small, boutique-lined streets and vicolos (alleys) of Rome. Lunch has to be Nino, a famous Tuscan restaurant. We are served the classic fennel salami, finocchiona; chicken liver on crostini; and prosciutto and melon with bicchieri (glasses) of red wine.

Now I understand why Nino is famous. The

flavors are spectacular, and the advice is kind, efficient and professional. Pasta, the centerpiece of any Italian meal, comes to our table. Melissa orders the spinach ravioli, and I have tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms.

Perfectly executed and bursting with flavor.

We know now this is Italy.

After a quick power nap, Melissa and I are back on the street, pushing ourselves to the Coliseum, which we missed on our last trip to Rome. Nothing is boring, and we turn corner after corner to find exciting sights that are worth the blisters forming on our feet. After a couple of hours of sightseeing, we stumble into a bar for an Aperol spritz and a glass of prosecco. The drinks are perfect, and our server drops off some snacks (Italians never drink without some kind of food). We sit on the shaded patio as we watch the world pass by on this small, crowded pedestrian street.

We do a little shopping, and then we are off to Il Convivio. When in Italy, I typically prefer the local, casual trattorias for a true taste of a regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s style and flavors, but this night I make an exception. We recall our last visit to this tiny trattoria as we walk to dinner. We enter the Michelin two-star ristorante, hidden on a back alley, to warm greetings. The menu looks great, and the wine list is huge. I want to read through the entire list (easily a 90-minute endeavor) but restrain myself and settle on a 1995 Clerico Barolo.

Eating light, Melissa settles on crispy fried zucchini blossoms with melted mozzarella and anchovy cream. Fantastico! I stare in disbelief at my plate, which is overflowing with crudo, an Italian-style sashimi â&#x20AC;&#x201C; marlin, sea bass, mackerel, oysters and sepia, each uniquely seasoned to enhance the natural flavors of that particular seafood. Across

the table, Melissa is buzzing over a warm seafood salad with crunchy vegetables while our waiter places an impressive amatriciana in front of me. The thick, chewy, almost meaty rigatoni is made in a classic Campania style with crispy guanciale and organic pecorino on top.

Perfect. Memorable. I am stopped in my tracks. I have to savor every bite. Next, to our surprise, the chef drops his specialty: a pasta carbonara made with seafood in which bacon is replaced with bottarga (cured fish roe). Stunning. Melissa is finished, but I have room for one more dish.

The Pigeon in Four Preparations is made up of a perfect mousse of liver, a broth with panzanella, crispy fried leg and the breast cooked exactly the way I like it: rare. The flavors of the tender breast paired with the liver will be embedded in the mind for years to come, influencing my cooking as I try to replicate these dishes in my restaurants.

Inspired Food Culture

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43

Top ROW: Casablanca dell'orca | MIDdle row: Rivera in castel del monte | Bottom ROW: Umani Ronchi in marche

Day 2: Morning has come too early. Caffe! I need espresso. We load onto the bus. “Buon giorno, Luigi!” Let’s go to Campania.

We’re off to Avellino and our first winery.

Casablanca dell’Orca is the house of the ogre. They greet us with a beautiful sparkling Falanghina and a spread of wine, cheese and a leg of prosciutto. We head back up to the patio for awesome views of the Campanian hills and the three stones of the ogres, and we dig into fresh mozzarella, ricotta, smoked mozzarella and other fresh cheeses. I taste the Greco di Tufo and the Fiano di’Avellino, both of which are rich and full with beautiful fruit and complexity. I try the Taurasi – a ’99 and an ’05. A classic Taurasi, as age has begun to do its work, with leather, tobacco and spice jumping out of the glass. Biscotti and a sweet Moscato are served before we head back to the bus and are off to Puglia.

We drive the back roads for what seems like an eternity to our next winery, Rivera.

The winery has three generations of wine making, and it seems that it upgrades

44

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every 20 years but never gets rid of the old equipment. It’s high-tech and completely different from our first stop. The wines are very interesting, made from grapes unique to the region, such as Bombino Bianco, Nero di Troia and others I can’t spell. Most of the wines come from the region, DOC Castel del Monte, which I have never heard of before but am quickly becoming a fan of today. The region is named Castel del Monte because of a famous castle built for Frederick II. We are heading to the huge octagonal stone tower for a quick tour by Rivera’s owner, Sabastiano, and then he takes us to dinner at the cantina.

We are greeted with local olives and taralli bread circles, and they are perfect with Sauvignon Blanc.

Sabastiano’s mother, Marilla, has prepared the meal. She is kind, shy and beautiful. The first course is an amazing dish of mussels with barley paired with a Chardonnay from the vineyard we visited earlier in the day:

no oak, very light, crisp and lovely. Next comes orecchiette with a lamb ragout that is perfect. Out comes the vino rosso: first the Aglianico, then Nero di Troia and Primitivo and more Nero di Troia. We are served a braised beef dish followed by local pecorino and caciocavallo with Marilla’s mandarin marmalade. We end this memorable meal with Rosata cake with Moscato di Trani. I get one bite before Melissa grabs my plate. We say our goodbyes, head back to the Hotel Queen Victoria and are out cold.

Day 3: We wake up to bright sunshine. I need an espresso. One down and I discover espressini, a mini cappuccino in an espresso cup. This should get me through the fivehour drive to Umani Ronchi in Marche.

We tour the expansive cellars and then head to a farmhouse in the picturesque region of Castelli di Jesi. We walk the vineyards, learning a bit about the farming techniques. As we stroll through the rows of vines, I can see the staff at the

farmhouse busily preparing our dinner.

They are frying everything – zucchini flowers, olives, rosemary, sage, zucchini, cheese and more. They grill piadini and slice the prosciutto. All of it is amazing.

We reach the patio and are greeted with Pecorino and Lacrima di Morro d’Alba wines. I know the Pecorino, but the Lacrima, a fresh, simple wine similar to Beaujolais, is new to me. We dig into the fritto misto and antipasti. I know we are going upstairs soon for dinner, so I am trying to pace myself.

Dinner begins with an amazing Verdicchio and a fava bean ravioli with puntarelle and oven-dried tomatoes. Interestingly, the favas were not peeled, and they were still perfect. I think if I brought this concept back to St. Louis, my chefs would smile with delight. We are having a ball, and the conversation goes from translation of Italian to English to the City Museum back home. Dinner finishes with a million sweets, a Sauvignon dessert wine (the best yet), a round of applause and a slow walk in the drizzling rain back to the bus.

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Top ROW: Palazzo | first photo in mIDDLE ROW: TOURING MONTEPULCIANO | last two photos in miDdle row: SALCHETO | BOTTOM ROW: vignamaggio. LAST photo is of the balcony where the mona lisa was painted.

Day 4: We are on our way to Montalcino and Montepulciano. Life is good. Luigi drives down the back roads of Montalcino and up the drive to a small estate called Palazzo. We take a quick tour, and they pass out the Rosso di Montalcino. This is the best rosso I’ve ever had. It truly tastes like Brunello, just a touch lighter. We are served what reminds me of ribollita soup with toast and fantastic olive oil. We taste the Brunello and the Brunello Riserva; both are amazing with the cheese and salumi. We take a few photos and jump back on the bus for our next destination: Salcheto in Montepulciano.

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FEBRUARY 2012

This small estate is in the middle of a major transformation. There is a major influx of money in this winery, and the resulting construction is a huge undertaking. It is focusing on becoming a game changer in terms of “green” by using no light and no electricity, going organic and more. The winds are whipping in the Tuscan hills, but the scenery is picturesque. After a small rest and a quick shower, we meet up with the party poolside for some rosé. I love the crudités, served in a small cup with salted olive oil in the bottom. We head up the hill to our dinner and an opportunity to taste the wines of Salcheto.

We begin with the Chianti Colli-Senesi, a young, fresh and simple wine. Then we have a Rosso Di Montepulciano and a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The wines are very good, better than the food tonight. A blessing in disguise, it would be the only night in Italy we would not overindulge.

Day 5:

As we drive through Chianti, memories are playing back in my mind as we pass by each little town. The farmers’ market where I saw my first porchetta; that small stone hallway under the town; Dario’s butcher shop where Adam [Gnau, chef at

Acero] and I ate raw sausage. We head toward Greve in Chianti only to turn off the road a few feet before entering the town onto a gruesome Tuscan backcountry trek to Vignamaggio. We sit down for the tasting, and they are mostly solid wines. The export manager is funny and wise and keeps our attention by not being too geeky about wine making. The wines are many people’s favorites so far, though not mine. They are very good nonetheless.

We stop in the shop and buy four types of extra-virgin olive oil, and then we’re off to the bus. We are late, so no time for Greve as we race by on our way to Florence.

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Top ROW: FLORENCE | MIDdle row: La Taverna in Udine | BOTTOM ROW: Verona. Second photo is of the Juliet Balcony.

Day 6:

Day 7:

We spend the morning walking around Florence, shopping, sipping espresso and soaking up the beauty before a fivehour drive to Udine. In the small town of Colloredo, we dine at La Taverna, a one-star Michelin restaurant. Prosecco flows, and appetizers are passed, each one more wonderful than the last. Crudo beef, tuna and shrimp are all delicious, as are the almond-stuffed olives wrapped in bacon.

They copy this, substituting dates for the olives. We are served potato soup topped with micro shrimp. People are turning their noses up, but I think it is amazing. We devour prosciutto and fried scallops before heading to dinner, and in the tradition of my father I am already stuffed.

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We are seated in the dining room, all 30 of us around one large table. The first course arrives: asparagus crème brulée. A layer of crème on the bottom appears to be a béchamel; it is followed by a purée of asparagus and finally the bruléed Asili crust.

I can’t stop eating this amazing dish. Pinot Grigio is the only way to refresh our palates after each spoonful. I need a break, but now they serve a near-perfect Friulano wine and garganelli pasta with fresh shrimp.

I am too busy pinpointing the flavors to acknowledge how full I truly am. They serve the rack of lamb. I think I’ll just try one bite.

I don’t want to be rude. Oh no! It is the best lamb I have ever eaten. I demolish the plate.

I give up – no more, please!

Still full from last night’s amazing dinner, today we head to Veneto to see where Amarone is made. The drive from Friuli to Veneto is much longer than I anticipated, but we finally make it to Michele Castellani. Its entry-level Amarone, with leather, chocolate and plum, is wonderful.

To my astonishment they hit us with the big boys: two single crus that blow me away. The entire tasting is accompanied with toast with EVOO, salumi, bread and cheese. All delicious. We slowly make our way into the heart of Verona. Crowds are everywhere, and an absolutely perfect Ferrari Daytona drives by us, stopping me in my tracks. I quickly learn tonight is the finish of the 1000 Miglia, a 1,000-

mile car “race.” The cars keep driving by to thunderous applause; even a trash truck gets a standing ovation. I see Jags, Mercedes, Lamborghinis and all sorts of classic cars. This town is beautiful, maybe the most beautiful of all the Italian cities I have seen so far. Across the street and down an alley from the Juliet balcony is the restaurant Michael White (of Marea in New York City) said I have to go to tonight, Trattoria al Pompiere. It's very small, warm and inviting, and I can just tell this is going to be good. The food is top-notch, not too pricey and just what the doctor ordered: more salumi, pasta and lamb. I shouldn’t eat everything, but I’m here to learn, remember?

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Day 8: It’s morning in Verona, and photo shoots are happening everywhere as we walk slowly through this beautiful town before we depart for Piedmont. I get excited as we drive past Asti, as this area produces some of my favorite Italian wine. I see the small village of Barbaresco up to the left, and I point it out to the ladies near me on the bus. I still recall the tajarin pasta I had there in March 2011. As we pull into Alba, my friend (and our host) David jumps off the bus, greets a guy on the street and then returns to announce that this is our tour guide and he will be taking us on a two-hour tour of Barolo. Our tour guide is really funny; he doesn’t understand he is giving a bus full of winos a very basic introduction to the wine of Alba, but I still learn various new facts about the region. We go to several of the 11 villages of Barolo and finish up the tour with a drive into La Morra village high on the hilltop. We get out of the bus and trudge up to the top to look out over the region of Barolo. Amazingly we are able to see most of the villages below, and I get a very good understanding of the region unlike anything I could glean from a book or online.

Back at the hotel, I change quickly, as I want to go to a shop specializing in

the white truffle of Alba before we head to dinner. I find the shop and buy three truffle slicers for the restaurants, each about $50 cheaper than I can get stateside. Heading back to the hotel, I suddenly feel a wave of exhaustion come over me. I think I have hit the wall, and I still have to go to dinner. And my trip to the shop has left me no time for a nap.

At dinner, we have several typical dishes of Piedmont, including carne cruda, tajarin and agnolotti. The wines of the Brothers Giacosa are very good. The Barbaresco is feminine and the Barolo is masculine, as expected, and both are amazing. I find it hard to stay awake, but I power through the meal, looking forward to the four hours of sleep I'll get tonight before we schlep our goods and bodies back to the States.

Day 9: We wake up before dawn, exhausted but excited to jump on the bus today, for we are going back home. On the ride, Luigi tells David stories that appear to make both of them slaphappy. We pull into Malpensa airport, say our goodbyes to those on other airlines and head home to our families, where we will be greeted with love-filled hugs and kisses.

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www.feastSTL.com Top ROW and small photo in middle row: barolo | LARGE PHOTO in middle row: KISSING IN UDINE | Bottom row: typical dishes of piedmont

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| BEANS & LENTILS | Tomatoes

| TRUFFLES | BEEF

VENison

Illustration by Derek Bauman

Once explored, many oenophiles embrace these wines with a loyalty and passion rivaling that of the Italians themselves.

It's important when approaching Italian wines to recognize that each region has its own unique identity made up of historic, cultural, geographic and culinary factors that greatly influence the wine styles produced there. Begin your journey by exploring the regions highlighted in this map, all of which are producing exciting wines that can be found on shelves throughout St. Louis.

| cannelloni | artichokes

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Piedmont’s historic seclusion from the rest of Italy, its former French rule and its proximity to Europe’s progressive ideas have yielded relative prosperity and a highly evolved wine industry. This northwest Italian region lies at the foot of the Alps and has cold winters and dry, warm summers. Its grapes are grown on exquisite hillside exposures in calcium-rich soils – perfect for Nebbiolo, its superstar native variety. Nebbiolo’s earthy, full-bodied profile, with hints of violets, is well-suited for Piedmont’s substantial cuisine. Prolific, age-worthy wines from eponymous regions such as Barolo, Barbaresco and Gattinara pair beautifully with wild-game dishes; polenta pasticciata with ground beef and Italian sausage; gnocchi di patate alla piemontese; and hearty, meat-stuffed pasta dishes with wild mushrooms. Consider Dolcetto, a light-bodied red with earthy notes, and Gavi, a white, dry wine produced from the Cortese grape. Pair these wines with local cheeses or fish from Piedmont’s glacier-created rivers. Dishes like carpaccio, pollo alla Marengo (stewed chicken with tomato sauce and scrambled eggs), vitello tonnato (cold, sliced veal with tuna sauce) and fonduta (fontina fondue) are classic. Moscato d’Asti and Brachetto d’ Acqui, hailing respectively from the Asti and Acqui regions, produce fruity, usually slightly sweet and often sparkling wines that can be enjoyed as an aperitif or with Piedmont’s rich strudels, amaretti (Italian almond macaroons) and egg-based desserts such as zabaglione.

CROSTINI

leeks

apples

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Discovering Italian wines is a thrilling adventure.

Written by Jennifer Johnson

Italian Wine REGIONS

Tuscany’s rich cultural heritage and innovative spirit are reflected in the area’s excellence in traditional wine making and in the rise of new, internationally acclaimed Super Tuscan wines. The Sangiovese grape and its many clones predominate in Tuscany’s Chianti, Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Brunello di Montalcino and Carmignano regions and eponymous wines. Since these clones produce wine that varies vastly in color, aromatics and weight, they are typically blended together. A small percentage of other Tuscan grapes – plus nontraditional varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon – are allowed in the blend. Codes of practice implemented centuries ago have left a legacy of requirements for crop yields, alcohol levels and aging. Areas such as coastal Maremma boast Super Tuscans made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese grapes. Sangiovese’s mediumbodied, sun-baked earthiness is often marked by flavors of fresh herbs, leather and cherries. Dry, crisp Vernaccia di San Gimignano, produced from the Vernaccia grape in Siena, is Tuscany’s most well-known white.

Chardonnay has also had success in this fertile region of rolling hills, valleys and forests. Wheat, olives and grapes make up much of the region’s agriculture, and Tuscany’s sophisticated, minimalist fare is marked by staples like unsalted bread or crostini, risotto, vegetables, tomatoes, and legumes as well as favorites such as panzanella, pappardelle alla lepre, paglia e fieno, minestra di riso, sogliola alla fiorentina and fagiano arrosto.

Calabria’s climate and topography are extraordinary, and a stoic, determined people have cultivated agriculture on every possible pocket and hillside of land. Located at the bottom of the Italian Peninsula, Calabria has mountainous terrain that abuts coastlines of the Tyrrhenian and Ionian seas. Seaside areas are so stormy, only a tiny minority of Calabrians live there. A rugged landscape, hillside plantings, hot summers and cold winters create a diversity of mesoclimates unique to each small and typically low-yielding vineyard site. Red wine grapes make up the majority of the vineyards. Calabria is known for Ciro, produced for millennia from the Gaglioppo grape, a robustly bodied variety with herbaceous notes and a currant-cranberry fruit profile. The region is also known for Sangiovese, Greco Nero and Greco di Bianco, which is a notable white dessert wine. Investments from Northern Italian producers during the past decade have yielded better wines through progressive measures such as planting Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay grapes, using small oak barrels for maturation, and producing more internationally styled wines. Eggplant, tomatoes, artichokes, peppers and onions abound.

Hearty sausages made with meat from chestnut-fed pigs and flavored with hot pepper are a specialty. Local dishes incorporate swordfish, shellfish, venison, mushrooms and trout from inland lakes. Cannelloni stuffed with beef and cheese, maccheroni alla calabrese with prosciutto and tomato sauce, and morseddu are great with these regional wines.

Vecchiarelle (honey fritters) are a must with the Greco di Bianco.

Located between the Alps and the Adriatic Sea, Veneto's topography is divided into a delta-like lagoon and Alpine foothills. Its climate is varied, as the mountains, sea and Lake Garda coalesce, evening out temperature extremes and yielding excellent growing conditions. Soups, risottos, cured meats, aged cheeses such as Grana Padano and Monte Veronse, pork, and freshwater fish are on the table here. Specialties such as penne with radicchio and bacon, lamb cooked with aromatic herbs and red wine, and beet-filled ravioli with poppy seeds are signature dishes. A notable wine district within the Veneto region, Valpolicella is also the name of red blends produced in a range of styles. Released early, it is fresh and Beaujolais-like. Labeled a Superiore, it is fuller-bodied and bottle-aged.

Rich Amarone is made with perfectly ripened grapes that are hung to dry and pressed as raisins. As a Recioto, an Amarone’s fermentation is arrested, producing sweet and sometimes sparkling wines. And as a Ripasso, a secondary fermentation yields a flavorful, tannic, full-bodied style.

Soave Superiore is an aromatic white blend of mainly indigenous Garganega grapes, with potential for delicate lemon curd and almond notes. Prosecco di Conegliano is light-bodied and most often produced sparkling, dry to sweet. Bianco di Custoza and Lugana are delicate, light whites based on the Trebbiano grape. Other notable grapes are the whites – Tocai Friulino, Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay – and the native reds – Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara. | almond trees | fusilli

Sicily’s culinary story is vibrant and diverse and continues to influence modern cuisine. Sicilians brought a simple cooking style that emphasized pure flavors to the New World. Immersed in tradition, authentic Sicilian cuisine remains relatively unchanged.

Many recipes have long-simmered, sweet and sour ingredients.

Examples are cannelloni, fusilli alla siracusana, tonno alla marinara, scaloppine alla marsala and pomodori alla siciliana.

Enjoying a revival of its own, Sicily’s wine industry originated from Greek settlements in the eighth century B.C., and Sicilian wines have been revered throughout history. Sicily’s climate is dry, with hot summers, and its terrain is mountainous. Abundant sunlight, elevated hillside exposures and long growing seasons are excellent conditions for grape growing. Intrigued by Sicily’s native varieties, consultants from Northern Italy and abroad have received terrific results using progressive grape-growing and wine-making methods.

For instance, Nero d’Avola, a full-bodied, tannic red, with plum, chocolate and earthy notes, is produced as a varietal or as a blend such as Cerasuolo di Vittoria. Other reds of note come from the Perricone and Nerello Mascalese grapes, and white wines are made from the aromatic Inzolia and Catarratto Bianco grapes.

Mainstream varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are infrequently planted because of hot conditions and great results from native varieties.

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pasta making Written by Heidi Dean

|

Photography by Geoff Cardin

101

recipes by Jamey Tochtrop, Stellina

|1|

|6|

For the uninitiated, the first bite of freshly made pasta is a lusty revelation.

The words "silky" and "luscious" come to mind as you experience pasta as it was meant to be. Sadly, the torrid food affair quickly fades into memory when you reach for a box of the dried stuff in the name of convenience. But it doesn’t have to be that way – with time, know-how and a few basic ingredients, you can make fresh pasta at home. We asked Stellina chef Jamey Tochtrop, who has been making pasta for 13 years, to share his recipes, techniques and tips.

Basic Pasta Dough Tochtrop spent four months developing this highly versatile recipe, and it has remained unchanged for 10 years. The recipe has never been published before.

Serves | 4 to 6 |

|2|

½ cups 2 ¾ cup 1 Tbsp ¼ cup

2

3 ½ cup

organic semolina flour organic unbleached, unenriched all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting finely ground sea salt organic extra-virgin olive oil extra-large organic eggs extra-large organic egg yolks filtered water

|7|

| Preparation | Mix flours and salt together. If using an electric mixer, use the dough hook attachment. Slowly add oil until incorporated. Add eggs and egg yolks one at a time until all are incorporated. Then add water. Note that water amount may vary depending on humidity.

If mixing by hand, combine all wet ingredients in a separate bowl. Pour mixed dry ingredients onto a flat work surface. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients. | 1 | Slowly add wet ingredients, | 2 | working them into the dry ingredients with a fork or your fingers in a circular motion. Mix slowly until all wet ingredients have been added. | 3 | Using a bench knife, turn the mixture over itself until the dough becomes one mass.

|3|

|8|

After the dough is mixed, knead it for 3 to 5 minutes by pushing it away from you with the heel of your hand. | 4 | Then pick the dough up and rotate it a quarter turn. Repeat. | 5 | Thorough kneading makes the dough smooth and silky. (The recipe stands up to heavy kneading because of the number of eggs it contains.) Check the dough for air bubbles in the center by cutting the dough in half with a bench knife. When few bubbles are visible, it’s ready. Cover dough with plastic wrap and rest at room temperature for a minimum of 1 hour.

To form pasta into sheets:

Tochtrop has a warning for folks who want to go old-school and roll out their pasta by hand: Italian grannies make it look easy, but it takes skill, time and elbow grease. Investing in a hand-cranked pasta machine won’t break the bank, since reliable models can be purchased at a number of local kitchen shops and department stores for under $100.

|4|

Set up a pasta machine or mixer attachment per the manufacturer’s instructions.

Divide the dough into thirds or fourths, rewrapping the portion you’re not working with. | 6 | Flatten the dough to a 1-inch-thickness, | 7 | and run it through the

|9|

widest roller setting. | 8 | Dust both sides of the dough with flour and | 9 | repeat, gradually adjusting the rollers to narrower settings and flouring both sides of the pasta sheet before every pass through the machine. | 10 | You’ll want to end on setting No. 2 or 3, depending on what type of pasta you’re making. For lasagna, you’ll want thicker sheets; for filled pastas, thinner sheets work best because of the folding involved. Unless you’re making ribbon-cut noodles for immediate use, you should allow formed pasta to dry on a rack or a clean, dry dish towel for 15 to 30 minutes before cooking or storing.

For Tochtrop's tips on making a better pasta and flavored variations of the basic pasta dough, visit feastSTL.com. |5|

|10 |

stuffed pasta There’s some debate as to where the first stuffed pasta was created.

The consensus is that it hit the Italian culinary scene in the Middle Ages.

Tomato sauce (tomatoes hailing from the New World) arrived a few hundred years later, but early ravioli, tortellini and agnolotti would have contained savory and sweet fillings that delighted diners.

pairing ideas Flavored Pastas and Flavored Fillings Note: Doughs flavored with chunkier additives like truffle shavings or sunflower seeds aren’t good choices for filled pastas. The dough will tear when rolled thin.

Fill black pepper dough with braised lamb shoulder, beef short ribs or pork belly. ○ Pair lemon-pistachio pasta with seafood or chicken cooked with plenty of fresh herbs. Also try it with a goat cheese filling. ○ Red wine pasta works well with eggplant, mushrooms, pancetta, crispy prosciutto or coppa. ○ The earthiness of squid ink pasta works well with lobster filling in large ravioli. ○

Once you form pasta into sheets, there are only a few techniques and guidelines to remember: Eliminate air during sealing (it will cause ruptures during cooking), and use water for sealing edges (egg will harden in boiling water). Follow Tochtrop’s guidelines for pairing flavored doughs with tasty fillings, or experiment with your favorite ingredients to create something all your own.

|1|

Apple-Cinnamon Fried Ravioli Serves | 6 | 1½ lbs

1 cup 1 pinch 2 Tbsp 1 tsp 1 cup ¼ cup 1 recipe

|2|

Jonagold or other crisp green apples Riesling salt ground cinnamon cayenne pepper mascarpone toasted chopped walnuts basic pasta dough, flavored with the cinnamon variation (found at feastSTL.com)

| Preparation | Finely dice apples, and sauté over high heat for 2 minutes.

Deglaze pan with Riesling. Add salt, cinnamon and cayenne pepper.

note

|3|

*

* Ravioli molds are available at specialty stores such as J. Viviano & Sons Inc. and Di Gregorio’s Italian Market.

|4|

|5|

For another great stuffed pasta, try Tochtrop’s butternut squash agnolotti recipe at feastSTL.com.

Reduce to a syrup. Remove from heat and cool completely. Fold in mascarpone and walnuts. Set aside.

Prepare the cinnamon pasta dough through the sheeting stage, finishing on the No. 2 setting. | 1 | Using a ravioli mold,* cut 2 pasta sheets so there’s a 1-inch overhang of dough by placing the mold facedown on each sheet and cutting around it. Drape one sheet of dough on the mold. | 2 | Press the dough gently into the wells, and | 3 | fill each well with the apple mixture. Drape the second sheet of pasta over the top, pressing gently to eliminate air around the

filling. | 4 | Seal the edges, putting pressure on the top of the form to complete the sealing process and separate the ravioli. | 5 | Place on a bed of semolina on a plasticwrapped and parchment-lined tray and allow to dry for 15 to 30 minutes. If making ahead, refrigerate for up to 3 days on the tray, or freeze in tightly sealed plastic bags for up to 1 month.

When ready to cook, fry ravioli in 350°F oil for 3 to 5 minutes. They will float when finished.

Ravioli may also be boiled for 2 minutes and finished in a pan with brown butter. Serve with vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce.

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ribbon-cut pasta When you think of Italian food, the image that might come to mind is a mound of spaghetti swirled with marinara and studded with meatballs. However, ribbon cut pastas come in a variety of widths and thicknesses, each bringing unique textures and flavors to their dishes.

How to make ribbon-cut pasta:

If you’re using a machine or mixer attachment, simply choose the desired width and support the noodles as they come out. Dry noodles on a rack or on a clean, dry dish towel for 15 to 30 minutes before cooking or storing.

|1|

To cut noodles by hand, start with 7- to 9-inch-long pasta sheets. Dust a cutting board with semolina, and | 1 | stack 4 to 5 sheets of pasta, with a generous dusting of semolina between each sheet. | 2-3 | Roll the sheets into a log, and | 4 | cut noodles to the desired width using a sharp knife and a gentle sawing motion. | 5 | Shake off excess semolina as you move the noodles to a drying rack or a clean, dry dish towel.

You don’t need to fully dry the noodles if you’re cooking them right away; they can rest on a rack or on a dish towel as you prepare your sauce. You should have your sauce ready before you put the pasta into boiling water, however, as ribbon-cut noodles take only about 90 seconds to cook. Noodles should go in the sauce immediately afterward.

If you plan to refrigerate or freeze ribbon-cut noodles for later use, put them in a tightly sealed plastic bag and leave a good amount of semolina on them. (The semolina will fall off in the cooking water.)

|2|

Pappardelle with Lobster Serves | 4 | recipe 1 ½ cup 6 Tbsp 8 Tbsp 4 Tbsp 12 oz

6 cups

2 Tbsp

basic pasta dough thinly sliced shallot olive pomace oil* butter, divided chopped garlic lobster meat from the claw, knuckle or tail fresh baby spinach salt and freshly ground black pepper chopped parsley

| Preparation | Bring a large pot

|3|

of salted water to a boil. Sheet pasta, and cut into pappardelle (¾-inch-wide noodles). Spread pasta on a rack or on a clean, dry dish towel. Sweat shallot in olive pomace oil for 4 to 5 minutes but do not caramelize.

Add 4 Tbsp butter and garlic, and cook for 1 minute.

note |4|

*

* Olive pomace oil is available at J. Viviano & Sons Inc. and Di Gregorio’s Italian Market.

For more recipes featuring ribboncut pasta, visit feastSTL.com. |5|

Add lobster meat (reserve nice pieces for top of dish), and cook slowly for 3 to 4 minutes until just warm. Add spinach, and increase heat to sauté ingredients. Boil pasta until al dente. While pasta is cooking, remove sauce from heat. Add remaining butter, stirring constantly to thicken sauce.

Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add pasta, toss and plate immediately. Garnish with parsley and serve.

pairing ideas Ribbon-Cut Pastas and Their Sauces When it comes to pairing noodles with sauces, Tochtrop has this advice: “Break the rules. If you like capellini with Bolognese sauce, do it. In my opinion, it’s up to personal taste, and there are no right or wrong answers. Be creative, and try new things. That’s how new ideas and concepts are developed.”

He offers a few guidelines, however:

As a general rule, broader noodles are used with heartier sauces because broader noodles stand up to these sauces better.

Try pappardelle with Bolognese or tagliatelle with a ragout.

○

Serve delicate sauces and ingredients such as seafood in a white wine reduction with thinner noodles such as capellini or linguine. ○

Thinner noodles also work well with delicate oil-, butter- or garlic-based sauces or stock- reduction sauces. ○

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Inspired Food Culture

FEBRUARY 2012

59

shaped pasta Shaped pastas are the fun younger siblings of the noodle world, great for days when you’re feeling more creative and less precise (and the perfect way to get kids involved in pasta making). Since they’re formed by hand, shaped pastas don’t require a pasta machine. But Tochtrop still recommends using a machine to get dough with a uniform thickness.

How to make bowtie pasta:

|1|

For bowtie pasta, aka farfalle, | 1-2 | use a fluted pastry wheel to cut sheeted pasta into 1x3-inch strips. | 3 | Place your index finger in the center of the strip, and | 4 | pinch with your opposite index finger and thumb to seal the dough around your finger. Work in batches. | 5 | Dry for 15 to 30 minutes before moving to a plate.

Bowtie Pasta with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Cannellini and Spigarello Serves | 4 | 6 Tbsp ½ cup

8 Tbsp ½ cup 4 Tbsp

½ cup

1 recipe

4 Tbsp 2 Tbsp

|2|

| Preparation | Bring a large pot of olive pomace oil* sun-dried tomatoes, julienned butter, divided cooked cannellini chopped garlic salt and freshly ground black pepper spigarello,** tough stems removed, blanched basic pasta dough, sheeted and formed into bowties grated Parmesan chopped parsley

notes |3|

salted water to a boil. In a mediumhot pan, add olive pomace oil and sun-dried tomatoes, and cook for 1 minute. Add 4 Tbsp butter, cannellini and garlic, and sauté for 1 minute.

Season with salt and pepper. Add spigarello, and cook 2 minutes. Boil pasta for 1 to 2 minutes. Remove pan with tomatoes and cannellini from heat, and add remaining butter.

Toss with cooked pasta, plate, and garnish with Parmesan and parsley.

Serve immediately.

*

* Olive pomace oil is available at J. Viviano & Sons Inc. and Di Gregorio’s Italian Market. ** Look for spigarello at the Maplewood Farmers’ Market in the spring. You can substitute broccoli rabe or kale.

|4|

PASTA MAKING VIDEO!

Follow along as chef Tochtrop makes basic pasta dough.

Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone or watch the video in the Watch & Listen section at feastSTL.com.

|5|

more ideas Try These Fun Shapes Stracci (irregular, rough squares) can be torn or cut with a knife or pastry wheel and cooked immediately.

○

For orecchiette, start by making pea-sized balls. Place a ball in one palm, and press your opposite thumb into the center of the ball to create a shell shape. Push away from the center to make the outside edge thinner than the edge closest to you.

Allow to dry for 15 to 30 minutes before cooking.

○

For garganelli (handmade tubes or penne), cut pasta sheets into 2- to 2½-inch squares. Start at one corner of each square and roll on a floured wooden dowel. Roll from the bottom corner to the opposite top corner of the square. Seal the outer corner with water. Slide pasta off rod. Let dry 15 to 30 minutes so the tubes retain their shape when cooked.

○

To make trofie (thin twists), cut pasta sheets into 3-by-1-inch rectangles.

Roll them lengthwise between your hands from top to bottom. These are irregular shapes, so your technique isn’t essential. Dry for 30 minutes so they retain their shape when cooked.

○

Chicken Marsala 4 eggs beaten 4 chicken breast 4 cups Italian bread crumbs Kosher Salt Freshly ground black pepper

Marsala Sauce

Place chicken breast between 2 pieces of plastic wrap and pound the chicken until it is 1/4 inch thick. Remove the chicken and lightly season the breast with salt and pepper. Dredge the breast in the beaten eggs, then in the Italian bread crumbs.

In a saute pan heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil.

Slowly place the breast in the oil. Allow the breast to fry until it is a golden brown color - about 5 minutes. Cook the other side until golden brown, and remove the breast to a plate and keep warm.

Add olive oil to a heavy saute pan. Add onion, green pepper, garlic, mushrooms, saute until mushrooms are tender. Add flour and cook about 1 minute then deglaze pan with the Marsala wine.

Add beef stock and cook until thick and flavors are blended.

Spoon hot Marsala sauce over warm chicken breast and serve.

1/4 Cup onion, diced 1/4 Cup green pepper, diced 1 Tablespoon garlic, chopped 1/2 pound mushrooms, sliced

3 Tablespoons flour 1/2 Cup Marsala win 1 1/2 Cups beef stock Salt and pepper, to taste

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pasta casseroles Lasagna. The thought of it evokes comfort and satisfaction. Assembling the classic casserole is straightforward, but if you get creative with the fillings, the possibilities are endless. And when you’re working with fresh dough, the results are even more spectacular.

Tochtrop’s tips for foolproof lasagna:

When making fresh pasta for lasagna, cut the pasta sheets to the size of the pan you’re using. You don’t need to cook the sheets. But you should let them dry on a flat surface for about 15 minutes before assembling the lasagna.

|1|

| 1 | Layer an oiled pan with marinara or other sauce, followed by a fresh, uncooked pasta sheet. | 2 | Add another layer of sauce, | 3 | followed by filling ingredients and mozzarella. | 4 | Repeat method for three more layers, making sure the pasta sheets are covered completely with sauce. | 5 |Create a fifth and final layer of pasta, sauce and mozzarella (no filling ingredients), making sure the pasta is completely covered with sauce. Cover pan with plastic wrap and foil. Bake at 350°F for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove foil and plastic wrap. Return to oven until top is golden brown (about 15 minutes). Allow to cool for 10 to 15 minutes before cutting into portions.

filling ideas Branch out from the usual meat sauce-and-ricotta lasagna with one of Tochtrop’s inventive variations:

Any type of cooked Italian sausage is always great with mushrooms or spinach for a classic approach. ○ Cube butternut squash and roast it with salt and butter. Layer the squash with béchamel sauce, whole-wheat pasta and mozzarella. ○ Grilled or poached chicken works well with artichokes and roasted red peppers. ○ Don’t be afraid to add different cheeses or meats. Pancetta, bacon, prosciutto, goat cheese and Asiago are all good alternatives to traditional ingredients. ○

Note: You can freeze the wrapped, uncooked casserole to cook at a later time. Allow 15

to 30 additional minutes of cooking time when baking it straight from the freezer.

Prosciutto-Spinach Lasagna

|2|

Serves | 8 | recipe 1

8 oz 6 cups 2 cups 5 cups 8 cups

Guidelines for building sauces and accompaniments:

basic pasta dough vegetable oil or vegetable oil spray shaved prosciutto raw spinach ricotta shredded mozzarella marinara

| Preparation | Preheat oven to

|3|

|4|

|5|

building sauces

350°F. Sheet pasta, finishing on the No. 3 setting, and cut into pan-sized sheets. Lay flat to dry for 15 minutes. You will use 10 sheets for the recipe. Spray or coat an 8½x11-inch Pyrex pan with oil. Cover bottom of pan with marinara. Layer 2 pasta sheets in bottom of pan. Top sheets with marinara, ¼ of the prosciutto, ¼ of the spinach, ¼ of the ricotta and a handful of mozzarella. Repeat method for three more layers. On the fifth and final layer, cover the pasta sheets completely with marinara, and finish with mozzarella. Wrap the dish with plastic wrap and foil, and bake immediately (or freeze for later use). Bake, covered, for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove from oven, and discard the plastic wrap and foil. Return to oven for 15 minutes, cooking until cheese is golden brown.

Allow to cool for 10 to 15 minutes before cutting.

Serve immediately.

If using raw meat, always sear it in your pan first.

Add flavorings such as garlic or shallots after the searing process is over to avoid burning the ingredients and to add layers of flavor. ○ Add dense herbs and vegetables such as thyme, rosemary, squash, mushrooms or peppers first. ○ Add more fragile herbs and vegetables such as basil, tarragon, spinach, blanched kale, spigarello or greens toward the end of cooking. ○ A small amount of cream will go a long way once hot pasta is added to the dish. ○ Always finish wine-reduction and stock-based pan sauces with butter. Once sauce has reduced to the desired consistency, remove from heat and add 1 Tbsp butter per serving, stirring constantly until melted. ○ ○

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feastSTL.com

FEBRUARY 2012

• CABINETRY • FLOORING •TRIM

• REFINISHING • REFACING • REPLACEMENT

CALL 636-527-3639 FOR A FREE IN-HOME CONSULTATION

Walters Jewelry Inc. • Four Generations • Since 1925 www.waltersjewelryinc.com

636-724-0604 - OR - 636-946-7352

Come and see us at our Grand Opening... in Fairview Heights, Illinois!

Open for lunch Monday-Friday from 11am-3:30pm.

Dinner Monday-Saturday from 4:00pm-10:30pm.

Private Party Rooms Available for Groups and Events of 10 to 110 Guests.

We offer Lunch and Dinner Packages. We also offer Catering, Delivery and Off-Premise Catering.

130 Ludwig Fairview Heights, IL 62208

(off of 159 near St. Clair Square)

Live Music on the Selected Weekends

www.agostinoscatering.com (618) 394-1800

Accepting Reservations for Valentine's Day

Great Wines & Specialty Beers Start your Valentine Celebration with us.

WINE SHOP & TASTING BAR...Whether you’re a seasoned wine drinker with a specific palate or a new wine drinker unsure of what to try or what you might like, Chateau La Vin is the place for you.

Just a short drive to Columbia, IL brings you to Chateau La Vin, the St. Louis region's newest wine shop and tasting bar! Come enjoy our warm and cozy setting, taste some old favorites and tempt your palate with something new! Enjoy our cheese selections along with your wine and make it a fun afternoon or evening with friends. Wine not your thing? We have a great selection of specialty beers, too!

“The Dapper Flappers”

Stop in for a free wine tasting.

Like us on Facebook.

119 South Main Street Columbia, IL 62236 (618)281-8117 www.chateaulavin.com

Interactive Mystery Dinner Theatre -Kõ! Âýa# “The Dapper Flappers” It's the Roaring Twenties, the era of wonderful nonsense. A ruthless gang of female bootleggers, The Dapper Flappers, have taken the city of St. Louis by storm. Norma Lee Vicious, The Dapper Flapper leader, is found murdered in the Bissell Mansion wine cellar.

µ‡Ka#ðW#adõ &‡º âaƒøë‡øº SOðZ

Join F.B.I. Agent, Elliot Mess and Miss Betty Bustem as they lead us through a maze of legal maneuvering, political intrigue, mob justice, and party passion to find our killer.

This interactive murder mystery is served with a 4-course meal to DIE for!

Make your reservations now; it would be a Crime to miss out on this much FUN! Call the Bissell Mansion

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Reservations: 314-533-9830

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7811 Clayton Rd. • 314-726-2220

(3 Blks. East of Brentwood)

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Inspired Food Culture

FEBRUARY 2012

65

St. Louis by the

mario’s

In less than a century, a humble Italian street food called

SLICE Written by Andrew Mark Veety

|

pizza – leavened flatbread with a modest application of toppings – made its way from the shores of the East Coast to virtually every corner of the nation. Small, family-run shops in cities like New York; Trenton, N.J.; and New Haven, Conn., made the country’s first pies.

Today you can enjoy more than 20 distinct regional styles. Each variation of American pizza, from East Coast thin crust to the West Coast take on Midwestern deep dish, traces back to the pizza styles of Italy. Examples are the chewy and fire-blistered pizza alla napolitana of Naples; Roman pizza al taglio, the original street slice bought by weight; and the thick-crust pizza square of sfincione – also known as focaccia – from Palermo.

Photography by Corey Woodruff

The heart of Italian pizza is bread, an aspect often missing from American-style pizzas, which tend to highlight toppings over crust.

Make no mistake; both approaches can be delicious. The distinction is important, however, and a function of utility. Piling sauce, cheese and toppings on a less bready crust ensures the integrity of the pizza is maintained. That’s not to suggest that a dish like pizza alla napolitana isn’t about toppings; it is. But it does mean additions usually are restrained and true to the guidelines of the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana, an international organization dedicated to the preservation of the traditional pizza style from Naples.

Another difference between Italian- and American-style pizzas is how and where they’re eaten. Although all pizzas are at their best minutes after they’ve been pulled from the oven, a majority of American pizzas are consumed outside of the pizzeria. Packaged in cardboard boxes and bags to keep them warm, to-go pizzas are affected by captured steam, which makes the crusts less crisp.

It’s not uncommon for a pizzaiolo, a pizzamaker who understands that time and distance from the oven are the enemies of a quality product, to discourage or even refuse to sell takeout pizzas – such is his commitment to serving the best-possible pies.

St. Louis has experienced a pizza renaissance in the past few years.

Our town is full of pizzas and pizzerias, including a beloved style named after our fair city. But where do we find authentic Italian pizza? Feast has rounded up five can’t-miss pies – from wood-fired-oven pizzas to honest-to-goodness authentic East Coast pies – that should top every pizza lover’s list. Here’s to getting back to pizza’s roots. Enjoy.

The Lingo Skin: a disk of uncooked pizza dough The skirt: the underside of a baked pizza The collar: the rim of dough running around the outside of a pizza, also known as the crust or bones

Leoparding: darkened charring from baking near an open flame, typically noticed on the skirt and collar of a pizza

VPN: Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana, an international nonprofit organization that cultivates and protects the culinary art of making Neapolitan pizza

Pizzaiolo: pizzamaker

Inspired Food Culture

FEBRUARY 2012

67

La Pizza

Feraroâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Pizzeria Tivoli

Mario’s Pizza

Mario’s Pizza is a relative newcomer to St. Louis (although its owners grew up in the restaurant business). The pizzeria quietly – almost silently – opened last spring in a small shotgun space in a Florissant strip mall. Mario’s pizzaiolos create authentic Neapolitan pizzas that you can take out, have delivered (depending on your location) or eat at the café.

Hand-tossed, thin-crust pizzas have tight collars that are perfect for folding and that stand up to a generous amount of toppings. The sauce is a family recipe that is simmered for hours before being ladled onto waiting pizzas and topped with enough shredded mozzarella to make an extra-cheese order unnecessary.

The menu features a number of topping-heavy pizzas to satisfy meat and veggie lovers. Winners are The Venice, with mozzarella and ricotta cheeses and strips of eggplant and the pizzeria’s take on a classic Margherita, finished off with a drizzle of rich olive oil.

472 Howdershell Road, Florissant, 314.831.9111 mariospizzacafe.com

La Pizza

Actually, “New York-style pizza” is a misnomer; the Big Apple serves multiple styles of pizza. The first type is a street slice, convenience food from pizzerias like Famous Ray’s, which sells giant triangular swaths of thin-crust pizza, with sweet tomato sauce and mozzarella waxy from sitting under a heat lamp. There are the legendary coal-fired pies from Lombardi’s and Grimaldi’s, with history that stretches back to the Italian immigrants who brought their recipes for pizzas to America. There is also a third group of pizzas, with slightly thicker crusts than street-slice pies and more-distinctive tomato sauce, from neighborhood joints located just far enough from a subway stop to remain relatively unknown beyond a 10- or 15-block radius. La Pizza belongs to the third group.

Although La Pizza does a brisk takeout business, the best way to enjoy one of its pies is to eat at the pizzeria. Watch out for that first slice, which can burn the roof of your mouth. Notice how crisp the skirt is compared with the slight give in the collar, especially when you fold the slice. The crusts of subsequent slices will change as the pie cools. But that first slice, topped with some crushed red pepper flakes and oregano, might be the closest thing to actual New York-style pizza in St. Louis.

8137 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.725.1230 lapizzamenu.com

Pizzeria Tivoli

Driving down South Kingshighway Boulevard in Princeton Heights, you might not notice Pizzeria Tivoli. The small brick storefront with black awnings hides in plain sight among its South City neighbors. Locals are lucky to call it their pizza joint or, rather, their wood-oven pizza joint.

Walk inside, and the first thing you’ll notice is a pizzaiolo casually tossing pizza skins in a small prep area tucked behind the bar and adjacent to a rustic brick oven. His dough throwing and stretching are more showmanship than authentic pizza making, but the efforts do help him create an evenly distributed disk of dough that can be topped and sent into the oven to bake.

Inspired Food Culture

FEBRUARY 2012

69

Mmmmm!

The Good pie

Pies are baked at 600ºF, resulting in a collar and skirt that are nicely browned, crisp, foldable and almost devoid of the charring you’d expect from pie baked near wood. Pizzas are topped with a simple tomato sauce and fresh mozzarella.

Many of the pizzas are variations of pies from Rome and its surrounding areas, including Mediterranean pizza with capers, anchovies and basil and a sauceless pizza bianca with garlic, ricotta, mozzarella and Parmigiano cheeses.

5861 S. Kingshighway Blvd., Princeton Heights 314.832.3222

Feraro’s Jersey Style Pizza

The Feraro family’s pizzerias in Soulard and South County make real-deal East Coast pies. Feraro’s pizzas are thicker than traditional thin-crust pies. But the added dough in the skirt provides a good chew and supports the sauce, freshly grated mozzarella and toppings. The give allows each slice to be folded into a compact canoe shape for easy eating.

Despite the utility of their crusts, the pizzas are different from other East Coast pies because of the tomato sauce, which is naturally sweet, a deep crimson and rich with fragrant Italian herbs. The pizzeria offers a menu of traditional and specialty pies. New Jersey expats will be happy to see a regional specialty topping (at the Soulard location) called Taylor Ham, or pork roll, which adds a nice smoky flavor to a pizza.

Looking for an authentic Seaside Heights, N.J., boardwalk pizza experience and a giant-sized pie that will get you thinking about warm summer days spent wandering on the shore? Try Feraro’s Jersey Style Pizza.

1862 S. 10th St., Soulard, 314.588.8345 11726 Baptist Church Road, South County, 314.843.3456 ferarospizza.com

The Good Pie

The best introduction to The Good Pie is a simple pizza bianca – an oblong disk of bread with Pecorino Romano, rosemary, sea salt and a drizzle of olive oil – pulled steaming, charred and smelling of fire from the Forno Napoletano wood oven that holds court in the back corner of this narrow Midtown pizzeria. The pie can be sliced tableside but is more satisfying when torn, with the dough ripped into long strips that are folded up and eaten. The dish has its roots in a favorite Italian street food and highlights the role freshly baked bread plays in Italian pizzas, without the distraction of tomato sauce and toppings.

Introductions out of the way, it’s time to move on to bread, tomato sauce, buffalo mozzarella (made from the milk of domesticated water buffalo) and basil. Pizza Margherita satisfies the requirements dictated by VPN; it’s an authentic pizza alla napolitana that is arguably the finest in town.

Classic toppings like salami, sausage and mushrooms, with a dusting of crushed red pepper flakes, are always crowd pleasers. Pies that are out of the ordinary, but still classic Italian, are topped with wafer-thin slices of prosciutto di Parma (dry-cured ham from Parma, Italy) and spicy arugula or with pancetta (Italian bacon), basil and the creamy yolk of a freshly baked egg. Great bread from the start. Good pies to the last.

3137 Olive St., Midtown, 314.289.9391 thegoodpie.com

Inspired Food Culture

FEBRUARY

71

CLASSIFIEDS

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

MOUNTJOY DESIGNS

by Carey Johnson, Certified in Faux Finishing Techniques

by Decorating Masters Institute.

Call 314-966-6346 www.mountjoydesigns.net

HANDYMAN SERVICES KEN'S HANDYMAN SERVICE Carpentry, Electrical, Plumbing, Painting, Gutter Cleaning and Hauling. Over 25 Yrs. Exp. Ref's. Insured.

Call Ken 314-567-6900

HEALTHCARE SERVICES COLLEGE DEGREED CAREGIVERS provide care and companionship.

Why accept less? A competitively priced option. Care manager/clinical staff available. AAA screened/bonded.

Preferred choice since 1987.

StaffLink/Gretchen 314-477-3434 VISITING ANGELS 24/7 Companion Care for Seniors.

Personal Care, Meal Prep, Light Housekeeping & Peace of Mind.

314-569-9890

HOME IMPROVEMENT

REAL ESTATE FOR SALE

WOOD FLOOR REFINISHING 25-yr. Old Fully Insured Company.

Sanding, Refinishing, Repairs, New Installation. Free Estimates.

PROFESSIONAL FLOORS OF ST. LOUIS 314-843-4348 www.profloorstl.com STEVE GRESS TUCKPOINTING Solids and Spot Tuckpointing with Color Match. Stone Basement Restoration.....and More.

Prompt Free Estimates. Insured.

314-645-8991 or 636-947-2133 Member BBB A+ Rating MC/Visa PRECISION REMODELING Since 1990 - Interior & Exterior We Are Here For All Your Home Improvement Needs & Repairs.

Free Estimates! Fully Insured.

Call Bob (314) 799-4633 or Jim (314) 799-4630

LAWN & GARDEN

LAKE MICHIGAN Waterfront Homes for Sale Go To www.Andreacrossman.com or Call 616-355-6387 Andrea Crossman

RUGS FRENCHTOWN RUG CLEANING ORIENTAL/AREA RUGS FREE PICK UP & DELIVERY (636) 949-0753 www.frenchtownrugcleaning.com

Outdoors Solutions

636-296-5050 Free Estimate

ALL TYPES TUCKPOINTING Serving St. Louis for over 40 years Mortar Color Matching Brick Cleaning Bricklaying Stone Work Power Washing Caulking Waterproofing & Sealing

Written Guarantee No Job Too Small Credit Cards Accepted Insured DAN MILBOURN

SERVICES $ CASH 4 OLD STUFF $ ————Light Hauling———— We Cleanup, Haul Away and/or purchase: Garage, Estate and Moving Sales!

Also, Warehouse, Business & Storage Locker Leftovers!

FAY FURNITURE 618-271-8200 AM

Landscape Design & Installation, Retaining Walls, Paver Patios.

Drainage & Pruning

22 Years in Business!

7 Consecutive Service Award Winner from '05-'11.

Solid Tuckpointing and Spotpointing with Color Match. Chimney, Stone and Brick Repair, Waterproofing.

Prompt Free Estimates. Fully Insured.

A+ BBB, 2011 Torch Award Winner (314) 645-1387 Credit Cards Accepted Mirellituckpointing.com



www.homehelpersstl.com

THE WELL BEHAVED PET....

For all your home training needs.

New Puppy, Puppy Mill Rescue Dogs or Behavioral Problems.

Call me, I can help.

Laura @ 636-456-9993

ALLEN'S HAULING SERVICE 15, 20 and 30 Yard Trash Containers.

Hauling Service.

No Job Too Big Or Small.

Any Type of Trash Removal.

314-621-0481 or 581-7274



314.961.1002 636.391.0000

PET SERVICES



On Call 24/7 Insured/Bonded and Carefully Screened

GULF COAST HOUSE OR CONDO Carillon Beach, FL, Destin Area 3BR, 3BA, Beach House or Condo.

Carillon has 3 pools, tennis courts and so much more! Avail. thru 2011.

Call Dave at 314-922-8344 Great Rates.

For Pictures Please Visit www.vrbo.com/148365 or /127089 REGENTS PARK LONDON Modern 2 Bedroom Apartment.

Convenient for Museums, Shopping, Theater. Wireless Internet Access.

Highly Recommended!

Call 314-569-2009

TUCKPOINTING



TWO LADIES & A BUCKET Two Are Better Than One! Deep & Thorough Cleaning Service Please Contact Susie Duncan at: 314-229-1736 www.twoandabucket.com

Meal Preparation

(636) 274-1378 Insured



CLEAN AS A WHISTLE Affordable Cleaning for Any Budget Weekly, Bi-weekly, Monthly, Move-in & Move Out $10 OFF New Customers Insured & Bonded Member of BBB Satisfaction Guaranteed Family Owned & Operated Call 314-426-3838

•

Housekeeping Errands • Recuperative Care •

•Stone Retaining Walls •Stump Grinding •Bucket Truck Service



CLEANING SERVICES

RN Supervised

• Bathing/Personal Care •

GILLS

TREE SERVICE



I BUY RUNNING USED CARS Buying with Integrity for Over 30 Years Cash Paid On The Spot Call Sam 314-302-2008

•

JC PAINTS Interior/Exterior Painting Reliable, Clean & Reasonable.

Insured.

Call John for a free estimate 314-703-2794

TREES TRIMMED & REMOVED



AUTOMOBILE & MOTORCYCLE STORAGE The Finest in Climate Controlled Storage Close to Clayton and Ladue 314-993-1330 or Kevin@stlouiscarmuseum.com

VACATION RENTALS



Home Helpers is your #1 source with affordable, dependable care for all ages by compassionate caregivers.

AUTOMOTIVE

TREES



CPA FIRM FOR SMALL BUSINESSES Affordable Accounting, Tax, Payroll & Guidance Solutions.

Call Tom at 314-448-4264 or Email: tomdunncpa.com

PAINTING



HEALTHCARE SERVICES



ACCOUNTING/TAXES

CONSTRUCTION INC.

314-772-0190 314-771-7622 FAX

Chimney & Complete Houses, Spot Tuckpointing with Color Match.

Brick & Stone Repair. Flagstone & Patio Repair. Basement Waterproofing. Caulking, Silicon Waterproofing.

Powerwashing. Prompt Free Est. Fully Insured.

314-645-8991 or 636-947-2133 Member of BBB & A+ MC or Visa Accepted

WANTED

WANTED

CHINESE ANTIQUES -I AM BUYING -JADE - IVORY STATUES SNUFF BOTTLES & WHOLE COLLECTIONS 314-503-4847 COLLECTOR WISHES TO PURCHASE Gun Collections â Old and New Antiques of Any Type Fishing Tackle Call Steve Lapin 314-571-9427 GUNS WANTED Licensed Federal Firearms Dealer Top Price Paid ï Any Condition YOU COME TO US OR WE'LL COME TO YOU 636-233-4544 Ask For MARK I BUY POSTCARDS! Stereoviews, Old Photographs, Documents, Letterheads, Movie Photos, Advertising, World's Fair, Railroad, Military, Political, Nautical & More.

Mike 314-524-9400 OLD RECORDS WANTED Experienced Collector Pays Cash for Your Record Collection.

45 RPM, 78 RPM and 33.3 RPM. Rock, Soul, Jazz. House Calls Made.

Call Kurt for info. 314-324-0521

Place Your Ad

24 HOURS A DAY laduenews.com

Make a

splash

with a larger ad and land future customers!

72

feastSTL.com

FEBRUARY 2012

Call

314/269-8810 or email

andreajones@laduenews.com

for more information

PS

JOIN US! Don’t miss your chance to interact directly with these professionals and mingle with your fellow food lovers.

FOLLOW CONGRATULATIONS TO OUR 2011 SCHOLARSHIP RECIPIENTS:

ON FACEBOOK

Feast Your Eyes Sat., Feb. 4, 12:30pm Complimentary, Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis This free program invites you into the museum for a tasting prepared in response to the exhibitions, the artist, or specific artwork and paired with local wine and cocktails.

Mr. Andy T. Hirstein, Culinary Essentials Ms. Stephanie N. Leiber, Culinary Essentials Ms. Felicia C. Nance, Culinary Essentials

100%

LE VEGETLAB OI

Wine Tasting Thu., Feb. 16, 6 to 7pm; Acero Complimentary, rsvp@stlwinegirl.com Join columnist Angela Ortmann for a food and wine tasting at Acero.

Bin 51 Tasting Wed., Feb. 22, 6pm; Bin 51 Complimentary, rsvp@stlwinegirl.com Join Angela Ortmann and Bin 51 owner Brian Kuchta for a tasting at this new Edwardsville wine shop.

TEL.:636-922-1881 FAX.:636-922-1885

Look for our full menu & coupons in Local Values!

WE DELIVER

4107 Mexico Rd., St. Peters MO 63376 Eat In/Carry out

We are pleased to announce the recipients of the 2011 Vatterott Educational Centers, Inc. Scholarship competition. The competition, which is administered in its entirety by the Greater St. Louis Community Foundation, awards current students who have demonstrated a high level of academic achievement and exemplary attendance.

Please join us in celebrating the remarkable accomplishments of these students as they continue to pursue their educational goals!

9811 South Forty Drive, St. Louis, MO 63124

1-888-797-0667

We ARE Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Wed., Feb. 22, 6pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $45, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704 Get hands-on and make the Italian feast featured on p. 38.

| LECOLE.EDU

career education CEC2358061 - 03/10

Healthcare training!

Sanford-Brown has been educating students since 1866, and with over 32 locations nationwide we’re here to help YOU!

Over

Feast Book Club Meet-Up Wed., Feb. 22, 6pm; Home Wine Kitchen RSVP to editor@feastSTL.com Join us to discuss Home Made by Yvette Van Boven and enjoy complimentary hors d’oeuvres (and kitchen tips) from chef Cassy Vires. Bring your from-scratch recipes to swap and compare. Purchase your copy of the book from Left Bank Books and receive 20 percent off.

Chandler Hill Guest Chef Dinner with Patrick Connolly Sat., March 10, 6:30pm; Chandler Hill Vineyards $89 per person, $30 wine-pairing option; 636.798.2675 Chandler Hill is serving up a rare treat this March: a dinner by James Beard Award-winning chef Patrick Connolly.

90,000

graduates and counting!

£Ê £ öß÷:=> £¶ •~©•® ¶² Ìθ¸

~~~µ•²¦µ²®®® ¤Î·È¶²ËͲ¶¡·µÊË¢ Sanford-Brown College I 100 Richmond Center Blvd. | St. Peters, MO 63376 Sanford-Brown College I 1101 Eastport Plaza Drive | Collinsville, IL 62234 Sanford-Brown College I 1345 Smizer Mill Road | Fenton, MO 63026 Sanford-Brown College I 75 Village Square | Hazelwood, MO 63042 Programs vary by location. Sanford-Brown College does not guarantee employment or salary.

Inspired Food Culture

FEBRUARY 2012

73

MEET & GREET

Rick Delashmit General Manager, Fruit My Cube written by Pat Eby

When the 2 o’clock sugar crash hits and there’s nothing but junk in the vending machines, what’s a health-conscious worker to do? Email Rick Delashmit at Fruit My Cube. He’ll set you up with fresh fruit, delivered straight to your desk each week. You can choose a Mini Cube with seven to nine pieces of fruit for $6.99 or pay just $10.99 for a Classic Cube packed with 15 to 17 hand-selected fruits and vegetables.

If produce is in the company budget, let management spring for Whole Office Cubes, available in four sizes, which range from $50 to $150.

Photography by J.Pollack Photography

From spring through late fall, Delashmit buys the best seasonal fruits and veggies from local farms.

During winter months, he uses high-quality growers from all over the world who supply his uncle’s produce stores, the Belleville Farmer’s Markets. Delashmit offers seasonal upgrades to the Cubes, including locally made treats such as Bobby’s caramel apples in fall, Buddy Boy fruitcakes during the holidays and chocolate-dipped strawberries made by the Fruit My Cube team for Valentine’s Day. In February, Cube assortments include seasonal citrus, Washington state apples and pears, kiwis, grapes, and bananas on the sweet side. Look for veggies such as vine-ripened Roma tomatoes; lush avocados; and triple-washed, microwave-ready russet potatoes. Make the most of your Cube with our suggestions below. fruitmycube.com

Use your cube to bring creativity to desktop dining Salad Days

Mixed baby greens with grapes and crumbled feta with lemon vinaigrette ○ Buttercrunch lettuce with diced pears, blue cheese and walnuts with raspberry vinaigrette ○ Red romaine lettuce with sliced kiwi, orange segments and diced turkey with ranch dressing ○

Simple Pairings

Honeycrisp, Pinata or Jazz apples with mild Cheddar Braeburn apples with Camembert ○ Gala apples with sharp Cheddar ○ Red or green grapes or Bosc or Anjou pears with Havarti ○ Sliced apples with peanut, almond or cashew butter ○

○

Sandwich Board

Thinly sliced avocado with roast turkey and Brie on honey-wheat Sliced pears with Bavarian ham and honey Dijon mustard on marbled rye ○ Apple slices with roast chicken and mayo on country white ○ Sliced bananas, almond butter and honey on multigrain wheat ○

○

Zap It

Stuffed baked potato: Microwave potato according to the directions on the wrapper, and then top with diced tomatoes, crumbled cooked bacon, scallions and Greek-style yogurt.

Poached pears: Peel, halve and core pears. Place cut side down in microwave-safe dish. Add ¼ cup cranberry or apple juice. Cover with plastic wrap and microwave on high for 4 to 6 minutes, until the pears are soft.

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