June 2012 FEAST Magazine

pastaria in progress

classic cooler

gas vs. charcoal

THE MAKING OF A MENU

GIN FIZZ

BATTLE OF THE GRILLS

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

feastSTL.com | JUNE 2012 | FREE

RAISE THE (BACKYARD) STEAKS

Indulgence Sweet

Treat yourself to our ultra-premium, creamy Culinaria Ice Cream – only at Schnucks!

We custom churn it with 16% butterfat. You’ll find all of your favorites, plus delicious new flavors like Peanut Butter Cup, Crème Brûlée and Strawberry.

For the most decadent of sundaes, top your ice cream with our exclusive Culinaria Dessert Sauces.

Whether you choose Chocolate Fudge with a hint of coffee or Sea Salt Caramel Chocolate, they both add a depth of flavor that’s unforgettable!

©2012 Schnucks

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JUNE 2012

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BROYHILL...FOR EVERY ROOM IN YOUR HOME!

No matter what room you’d like to decorate, Broyhill and Rothman have it covered, with our sensational display of the latest Broyhill fashions.

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Inspired Food Culture

JUNE 2012

5

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

JUNE 2012

from the staff

| 10 |

feaststl.com

What’s online this month.

| 12 |

from the PUBLISHER

The great outdoors.

| 16 | FEAST FAVES

Our staff and contributors share inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis.

COLUMNS

| 26 |

my stuff

Elizabeth Schuster takes a Eurocentric approach to local fare.

| 29 |

gadget a-go-go

We put five vegetable peelers to the test.

| 30 | ON THE SHELF

New and notable in beer, spirits and wine.

| 32 |

mystery shopper

Buy it and try it: chia seeds.

| 34 | TECH SCHOOL

Learn to create flavorful layers with terrines.

| 36 |

how to

Master the mystery of the pasta machine.

| 38 | EASY EATS

Change up your dinner routine with marinated lamb chops.

| 74 |

meet & greet

Get into the mix with Marcia Schechter, owner of Grandma’s Nuts.

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY of artisan beef cuts (P. 58) BY Corey Woodruff Table of contents photography BY

Jennifer Silverberg

6

feastSTL.com

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42

The MAKING OF A

MENU

58

+

Artisan CUTS

52 battle of the

GRILLS

the

60

|creole cajun connection

Inspired Food Culture

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7

Magazine Volume 3

| Issue 6 | June 2012

Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville Managing Editor Brandi Wills Online Editor Kristin Brashares Art Director Lisa Triefenbach Vice President of Advertising Donna Bischoff Copy Editors/Proofreaders Andrea Mongler, Jill Pfeiffer Contributing Writers Tory Bahn, Brandon Chuang, Pat Eby, Chad Michael George Erik Jacobs, Jennifer Johnson, Angela Ortmann, Matt Seiter Michael Sweeney, Scott Thomas, Cassy Vires Contributing Photographers Jonathan Gayman, Laura Ann Miller Jonathan Pollack, Jennifer Silverberg, Corey Woodruff Contributing Videographer Hannah Radcliff Contributing Illustrator Derek Bauman

Contact Us Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor St. Louis, MO 63101 feastSTL.com Advertising Inquiries Kelly Klein, 314.340.8562 kklein@stltoday.com Editorial Comments editor@feastSTL.com

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com.

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright Š 2010-2012 by Feast Magazine™.

All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.

A publication of Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC A Lee Enterprises Company

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JUNE 2012

Inspired Food Culture

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9

ONLINE CONTENT

www.feastSTL.com

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

The Feed

Online Exclusives

This Month’s Feast

Watch & Listen

Feast Events

Recipes

Win A Grill! It’s prime time for outdoor cooking, and we’re giving away the grills featured in Battle of the Grills (p. 52). Follow us on Facebook at facebook.com/feastSTL and share any of our weekly giveaway posts throughout June to be automatically entered to win.

ONLINE EXCLUSIVES BACK TO THE EARTH: Starting this month, we’re following along as the Villarreal family (pictured) transforms a vacant city lot on Delmar Boulevard into a commercial farm. Plus, check out our behind-the-scenes coverage of Slow Food St. Louis’ annual Feast in the Field. Photography BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

FIRE UP YOUR TABLET! Our digital issues are now iPadfriendly. Scroll through this month’s issue or any of our previous editions in our Digital Archives section.

CONNECT WITH US facebook.com/feastSTL Scan this tag to LIKE us

twitter.com/feastmag Scan this tag to FOLLOW us

ONLINE COLUMNS EATS FROM ABROAD: Our globe-trotting contributors make

travel season even more scrumptious with their Travelogue photo essays. This month, seasoned food and travel writer Susan Katzman guides you through some of the best eats in Brussels.

pinterest.com/feastmag Scan this tag to FOLLOW us Get the free app at gettag.mobi

10

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JUNE 2012

N OW O P E N M I C HAEL KO R S H OT MAMA WHITE HO U S E | B L ACK MARKET BRIO TUSCAN GRILLE C A N YO N C A F É C A R D W E L L’ S AT T H E P L A Z A B R I C K TO P ’ S F L E M I N G’ S P R I M E S T E A K H O U S E S A I N T LO U I S B R E A D C O.

www.plazafrontenac.com Located at the junction of Clayton Road and Lindbergh Blvd., just south of I-64/40

Inspired Food Culture

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FROM THE PUBLISHER

T

PS

FEAST EVENTS

Feast Your Eyes Sat., June 2, 12:30pm Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis

This program invites you into the museum for a tasting prepared in response to the exhibitions and paired with local wine and cocktails.

International Dine Around

his month we’re taking it outside.

June is high season for backyard pursuits, and this issue is full of ideas to jazz up your next outdoor gathering. Speaking of jazz … we share much in common with New Orleans, our jazzy southern neighbor. A number of notable St. Louis chefs have a tie to the Crescent City and for The Cajun Creole Connection (p. 60) we gathered many of them together for a home style potluck. Each chef brought a dish that, to them, represents true NOLA cooking. Barbecue shrimp, Maque Choux, a layered red velvet Doberge cake … after reading Brandon Chuang’s piece, you’ll understand why New Orleans cuisine is so well-loved.

Wed., June 13, 6 to 9pm $25 or $30 per ticket book, southgrand.org

Sample the vast, delicious array of what South Grand restaurants and bars have to offer with this flagship event.

L’Ecole Academy Date Night Fri., June 15, 6 to 9pm $75 per person, lecoleacademy.com or 314.264.1999

Create a three-course meal inspired by traditional American cooking.

Wine Tasting Thu., June 21, 6 to 7pm; Prime 1000 RSVP to rsvp@stlwinegirl.com

Sometimes, though, you just want to fire up the grill and throw on some steaks. But it’s not as simple as that, as many backyard warriors will attest. For guidance, we turned to the GrillinFools, who waged a Battle of the Grills that pitted a classic charcoal grill against a new-fangled infrared model. Turn to page 52 to find out which grill came out on top and read our expert judges’ tasting notes.

Join columnist Angela Ortmann for a food and wine tasting at Prime 1000.

Brand Appetite Mon., June 25, 6 to 8:30pm $25, brandappetite.eventbrite.com

FEAST and Enrich are gathering a panel of experts to discuss branding and marketing specifically for food industry businesses. From establishing a new food product to running a restaurant, this event is crafted especially for you. A panel discussion will begin the evening, followed by wine and eats.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Even Gerard Craft, when testing recipes for the soon-to-open Pastaria, turned to his outdoor oven. He and Adam Altnether have been focused on getting each detail just right, even going all the way to Italy to experience what Craft calls “the truth” of the cuisine.

Brandi Wills takes you with them on their journey to develop dishes that balance Missouri’s bounty with Italy’s culinary heritage. With flavors from New Orleans to Italy to right here in River City, June is going to be delicious.

Until next time,

Wed., June 27, 6pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $45, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Get hands-on and make the marinated lamb chops on p. 38.

Feast Book Club Meet-Up Thu., June 28, 6pm; The Tavern Kitchen & Bar RSVP to editor@feastSTL.com

Join us to discuss The Art of Living According to Joe Beef: A Cookbook of Sorts. We’ll contemplate the food-obsessed lifestyle while enjoy complimentary hors d’oeuvres and drink specials. Purchase the book from Left Bank Books and receive 20 percent off.

Food Media Forum Sat., July 28 & Sun., July 29 $100; foodmediaforum.com

Join us for this premier two-day food writing and food media workshop featuring Dianne Jacob, author of Will Write for Food, plus insight and guidance from professional food photographers, writers and editors.

Oceania Luxury Culinary Cruise altairtravelinc.com or 314.968.9600

Join publisher Catherine Neville on a 10-day luxury cruise from Istanbul to Venice with ports of call ranging from Ephesus to Athens. feedback?

catherine@feaststl.com 12

feastSTL.com

JUNE 2012

Jonathan Gayman

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Catherine Neville

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Inspired Food Culture

JUNE 2012

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Established Restaurant For Sale in Hermann, MO.

Homemade Greek Food Carry out • Catering • Private Parties

Cottage Restaurant

1940's cottage on 5 acres just outside of town, three buildings www.goodfoodfineart.com

Gyros • Kebobs • Baklava

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Joe the butcher says...

You should try these Tasty New Items from Kenrick’s

4324 Weber Rd., St. Louis, MO. 314-631-2440

Here at Kenrick’s, we’re coming up with new delicious ideas.

We select the most tender, tasty meats and combine it with the perfect accompaniment to create an amazing experience for you, your family and your guest.

Each item is prepared with deliciously tasty succulent meat that will have your guest asking you, “Where did you get this?”

Chicken Cordon Bleu Balls

Chicken Pinwheel - Boneless skinless

Seasoned Ground Chicken stuffed with Ham, Provel, and Dijon Mustard in a bite size shape of a Meatball. Great on the Grill!

Tenderized Flank Steak seasoned with Parmesan Cheese, Volpi Salami and Provel Cheese rolled into a Pinwheel.

Chicken Breast stuffed with spinach, brie cheese, sundried tomatoes and seasoned with Greek seasoning rolled into a pinwheel.

Italian Saziza Stuffed Mushrooms

Bacon Wrapped Pork Tenderloin stuffed with Hot Pepper Cheese

Pork Tenderloin Stuffed with Spinach Roasted Garlic and Bleu Cheese - We make a mixture of Spinach, Bleu

Italian Saziza mixed with Mozzarella stuffed into a Mushroom Cap. A Fabulous Appetizer.

Bacon Wrapped Chicken Fillet

Boneless Skinless Chicken Breast wrapped in smoked Bacon seasoned with sweet and sassy BBQ seasoning.

14

Italian Flank Steak Pinwheel

feastSTL.com

JUNE 2012

We take a trimmed Pork Tenderloin and cut a pocket into it, stuff it with Hot Pepper Cheese and tie it back together. We then take our favorite ingredient ‘Bacon’, and wrap it around the Tenderloin. Great for the Grill and the oven!

Cheese and Roasted Garlic, then we stuff it in the Pork Tenderloin and tie it back together, this is a great item for the grill or the oven!

2012

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Inspired Food Culture

JUNE 2012

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FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

Tavolo V

the loop’s new table

314.721.4333 The Loop

While Tavolo V looks and feels much like Michael Del Pietro’s other restaurants – Babbo’s, Sugo’s Spaghetteria, Pazzo’s Pizzeria and Via Vino – it has a character all its own. The food is decidedly Italian, cooked to order in the bustling open kitchen. The dishes are fresh and bright with an emphasis on vegetables and seafood. The funghi pasta mixes garlic – both fresh and roasted – with earthy mushrooms, spinach and olive oil, all in a mushroom broth. The tutto mare is a classic: shrimp, clams and crab in shrimp broth with tomatoes, garlic and a bit of cream. The chicken scaloppine features a pan-fried, cage-free chicken breast served with big and filling, order the lasagna. Berkshire pork and grass-fed beef are layered with ricotta, Parmigiano-Reggiano and housemade tomato sauce. This family-friendly spot is a smart addition to the east end of The Loop.

– C.N.

6118 Delmar Blvd., The Loop tavolov.com

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PHOTOGRAPHy by Corey Woodruff

housemade gnocchi and spinach. For something

FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES | what we’re dRinking

Santa Barbara Pinot Noir written by Jennifer Johnson

The wine term balance comes to mind when you are considering the sunny, dry coastal region of Santa Barbara, so effortlessly cooled by the Pacific-winds-turnedrolling-fog that blanket the area. Santa Barbara is an ideal home for Pinot Noir, a grape considered to best express the terroir – or combination of soil, topography and climate – in which it is grown. Some of the finest examples of this mediumbodied, thin-skinned, fickle grape hail from such subregions as Santa Rita Hills and Santa Maria and, interestingly, these wines have recently squelched the opinion that fine Pinot Noir must be light-bodied and lowalcohol. Indeed, Santa Barbara Pinots are imbued with balance, and the compelling higher- and lower-alcohol versions continue to capture the world’s attention.

Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir 2009

Santa Barbara, Calif.

Great acidity, lower tannins and a cherry-strawberry-cola profile define this easily quaffable and easy-on-the-wallet Pinot from legendary Santa Barbara Pinot Noir winemaker Jim Clendenen. He offers numerous single-vineyard Pinots within his portfolio as well.

The extended finish and light peppery notes make this wine an excellent pair with pancetta, wild-mushroom-stuffed veal or pear-and-goat-cheese tartlets. $24; Robust, 227 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, robustwinebar.com

Siduri Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2010

Santa Rita Hills, Santa Barbara, Calif.

Another rock star Santa Barbara Pinot producer is Siduri’s Adam Lee. His emphasis on vineyard site expression is reflected in this value-driven wine and in his lengthy single-vineyard portfolio. Hints of barnyard and earth are intentional reminders of the Old World and are balanced by medium tannins and a sunny raspberry-strawberry-cherry fruit profile. Pair with étouffée, copa Romano or tuna empanadas. $25.99; The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com

A St. Louis-based wine and food enthusiast, Jennifer Johnson is a sommelier, wine educator, journalist, and hospitality and marketing consultant who loves to celebrate life, family, food and wine.

Inspired Food Culture

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FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

big-time sugary treats abound at pint size

Gargantuan cranberry-potato-chip cookies; chewy marshmallow-filled oatmeal cream pies; big sweet (think blueberry) and savory (BLT) muffins; tender crumb cakes topped with fresh fruit; “breakfast” cookies with rolled oats, toasted walnuts, pineapple and dried fruit; cheesecakes with homemade graham cracker crusts; even quiche made with farm-fresh eggs.

Goodies galore abound Pint Size at Pint Size Bakery Bakery & Coffee & Coffee, a new from-scratch bakery 314.645.7142 launched by pastry Lindenwood chef Christy Augustin.

Park Don’t let the name fool you: Even though the bakery is small, it churns out tons of treats, all made by hand each day with the highest-quality ingredients. If you know you want something specific, get there early because the popular shop does sell out – and it won’t hold anything over until the next day, so if it’s out, it’s out. Get your goods to go – there’s no seating – and be sure to grab a strong, steaming cup of Kaldi’s coffee too. Simple, honest ingredients go into the baked goods at Pint Size, and you can taste the dedication to quality in everything the bakery offers. – C.N.

PHOTOGRAPHy by Corey Woodruff

3825 Watson Road, Lindenwood Park pintsizebakery.com

18

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FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES | FOOD STUFF

STEAKHOUSE SAUCES Pour on these sauces from well-known steakhouses to bring a sweet-and-spicy zing to your favorite cuts of beef. – B.W.

GREAT ON: Boneless ribeye (the classic Delmonico’s steak)

GREAT ON: Dry-aged steaks

GREAT ON: Filet mignon

| 1 | Delmonico’s Restaurant Classic 1837 Steak Sauce, $4.49; Straub’s Markets, multiple locations, straubs.com | 2 | Smith & Wollensky steak sauce, $7.99; The Smokehouse Market, 16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield, anniegunns.com | 3 | Tucker’s Place steak sauce, $4.99; Dierbergs, multiple locations, dierbergs.com PHOTOGRAPHy by Laura Ann Miller Inspired Food Culture

JUNE 2012

19

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FEAST FAVES

| whAT we’re drinking

Ramos Gin Fizz Story and recipe by Matt Seiter

Henry Charles “Carl” Ramos created this timeless classic in the late 1880s. He ran the Imperial Cabinet Saloon and the Stag Saloon in New Orleans from 1887 to 1918. And at these two places his gin fizz was born and immortalized.

It was said that he employed “shakermen” – people whose only job was to shake this legend of a cocktail. One man would start the shaking and pass the tin once his arms were tired. Perhaps a little excessive, but what a sight that would be. On the eve of Prohibition, instead of keeping his recipe a secret, Ramos told everyone how to make it. He reached into the future by dictating his recipe to a reporter for the New Orleans Item-Tribune a few years before he died in the late 1920s.

In the original recipe, Old Tom gin, powdered sugar, lemon and lime juice, an egg white, orange flower water, club soda, cream and crushed ice are added to the shaker at once, shaken “until there is not a bubble left” and poured into a large Collins glass. The finished drink should have the consistency of rich milk, be a little tart and be the color of snow. It has been fabled that this takes anywhere from two to 15 minutes of shaking to achieve. However, I’ve made hundreds of these while shaking for only 45 seconds to one minute at best, and they turned out just fine. The recipe I use is a modified version of the original. I use simple syrup in lieu of powdered sugar, and I substitute London Dry gin to offset the heightened sweetness. I also add the club soda after shaking, which is common nowadays.

PHOTOGRAPHy by

Laura Ann Miller

It’s important to use only three dashes of orange flower water in this recipe and not a dash more. Orange flower water is a distillation of fresh bitter orange blossoms and water. Traditionally used in Middle Eastern cooking, it’s also found in French and Mediterranean sweets and desserts.

It is also often used to mask the flavor of foul-tasting drinking water. There are a few brands on the market, and I recommend Cortas. It has an incredible aroma, and the flavor is potent. A little goes a long way in this drink.

BARTENDER KNOWLEDGE Working with eggs: Raw eggs have been an important ingredient in cocktails for centuries, with countless cocktails containing egg whites, egg yolks and whole eggs. In addition to the Ramos Gin Fizz, you’ll find eggs in the Clover Club, Clover Leaf, Coffee Cocktail, Delicious Sour, Silver Fizz, Golden Fizz and Morning Glory Fizz.

Egg whites bring a creamier texture and a frothy head to cocktails. Egg yolks add a silky richness, like that of melted chocolate, that you can’t get from any other ingredient. And whole eggs offer the best of both – rich creaminess with a frothy head. When used in a cocktail, eggs don’t impart an egg-y flavor but rather help blend the flavors of other ingredients beautifully and tame any flavors in the drink that are too strong. The Ramos Gin Fizz is one of the best introductions to the world of egg cocktails.

Note: If you’re worried about salmonella, use pasteurized eggs. In addition, be sure to crack your egg in a separate bowl

first to see if there’s blood in it. If there is, simply dump the egg, wash your tins and grab another one.

Matt Seiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program and a continuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft of mixology. He is a member of Drink Lab and is the creator of the Sanctuaria Cocktail Club.

Ramos Gin Fizz Serves | 1 |

2 oz

1 oz

1 oz

½ oz

½ oz

1 3 dashes

1 oz

Broker’s London Dry Gin simple syrup heavy cream fresh lime juice fresh lemon juice egg white orange flower water club soda

| Preparation | Combine all ingredients except soda in a shaker. Dry shake for 7 seconds. Add ice and shake vigorously for 45 to 60 seconds. Strain into a Collins glass.

Dump the ice from the shaker and add club soda. Swirl the soda in the tin quickly until a frothy foam forms. Pour the liquid into the Collins glass and spoon the foam on top of the drink, creating a “mountain of snow-white goodness.”

Inspired Food Culture

JUNE 2012

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JUNE 2012

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PHOTOGRAPHy by Laura Ann Miller

FEAST FAVES

St. Louis Home Fires 636.256.6564

a go-to grill shop When you find a style of cooking that captures your imagination, there’s nothing more exciting than a store dedicated to the gear and gadgets you need to become an expert at it. For those who gravitate toward outdoor cooking, St. Louis Home Fires is the place to be.

The specialty shop offers a well-curated selection of charcoal and gas grills, free-standing smokers, charcoal ovens and more. Owner Frank Schmer researches each model the store carries – reading reviews, studying warranties, considering availability of replacement parts and giving preference to American-made products – before adding it to the store’s offerings. “I have to know

the latest on grilling and barbecue if I want to keep up with our customers,” says Schmer. “It’s not uncommon to have a handful of folks here for hours sharing recipes and techniques, looking for something to bring their skills up a notch. Everyone on our staff cooks too. You have to [know how to cook] if you want to help customers find the best equipment for what they want to do.”

As a member of the St. Louis BBQ Society and organizer of the annual Wildwood BBQ Bash, Schmer has a passion for helping barbecue enthusiasts up their game. The store carries 20 kinds of smoking wood and over 100 rubs and sauces, including a number of locally made options, and

Ballwin

offers monthly cooking demonstrations by local chefs who share tips and tricks for improving your barbecue prowess. “Barbecue is a lifestyle,” says Schmer. “It brings people together. I always say that foodies are the best kind of people and that barbecue people are the best of the foodies.”

No matter what kind of foodie you are, it’s undeniable that a trip to St. Louis Home Fires will bring a new perspective and enthusiasm to your outdoor cooking experience.

– B.W.

15053 Manchester Road, Ballwin stlouishomefires.com

Owner Frank Schmer’s 3 Go-To Grills |3|

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| 1 | Schmer likes the Memphis Pro wood-pellet smoker for its ease of use and consistent results. Combining the convenience of a gas grill and the flavor properties imparted by a wood-fired oven – with the added environmental consciousness of wood pellets over gas or charcoal – pellet grills are gaining popularity among grilling gurus. | 2 | The Big Green Egg is one of the shop’s most popular items. “It’s great for both smoking and grilling,” says Schmer. “Everything that comes off ‘the egg’ is better.” | 3 | The highly rated Weber Genesis 330 is Schmer’s pick for a gas grill. “It has a sear station for red meat and a side cooker, which I really like,” he says. “Plus you can’t beat a gas grill when you get home from work and want a quick and delicious dinner.”

Inspired Food Culture

JUNE 2012

23

Come taste what all the FASS is about!

This year, get Dad something he really wants!

Don't you think Dad has enough golf tees? This year treat him to something he really wants - Scotch! At VOM FASS, you can choose from a wide variety of single-malts all carefully selected for their exceptional character (like Dad) and their fine taste (like you). Perhaps Dad prefers Brandy or Absinthe, no worries, at VOM FASS, we have it all.

Bring this ad in and receive a free gift at VOM FASS in Maplewood.

*3'1 -642;#<:#! .9#( + -6$7#8%%0 + 3'1()3&(/&,& + 9%5"6<<<75%(2%5

Chicken Dinner Sundays -@$ #6" 3CA3<"6 0A66"! >"B #6" 3CA3<"6 0A66"! &?(( Expires June 30, 2012. Dine-in only.

%%2 4' /A:: =B' , 48B"!:##+ 91 , .%*')5)'))55 , E8::8EC"!D;8B"!:##'3#7

Retail and Wholesale For over 81 years, the Wenneman family business has been a tradition for many people in the St. Louis Metropolitan area. With total commitment to customer satisfaction as their primary objective, we place great emphasis on product quality and customer service.

Wenneman Meat Company is a full service, federally inspected, old fashioned butcher shop and meat market.

We produce a complete line of our own meat, deli and poultry products. Our formulations and recipes have been passed down for generations, and remain unchanged, while continuing to grow our product lines.

Retail and Wholesale

*/&- 8;5;" 9; &- + 8;' .:3#! $) 6. + ,&('*,('/1%( + 7"22"452'0#4

**5% 6:@A#8 =3) 0 .!"A@;##3, 2- 0 7&5)+%%)5*'* 0 55+/ 4"9:$ ("!! $ =3) 0 <@) 4#>?A, 2- 0 7&5)+*5)&1'' 24

feastSTL.com

JUNE 2012

FEAST FAVES

| what weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re buying

Garden Inspiration |1|

The growing season has us working and entertaining in the backyard and sprouting green things indoors too. Our enthusiasm is reflected in these pretty products inspired by the garden. â&#x20AC;&#x201C; B.W.

|2|

|3|

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| 1 | Oliver Mint Cooler, $4.95 each; cb2.com | 2 | La Med outdoor pillow collection, $59 to $79; Williams-Sonoma, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, williams-sonoma.com | 3 | Mariposa Garden Tool salad servers, $48; Byron Cade, 7901 Clayton Road, Clayton, byroncadegifts.com | 4 | Potting Shed Creations Growbottles, $35.50 each; ArtMart, 2355 S. Hanley Road, Brentwood, artmartstl.com

Inspired Food Culture

JUNE 2012

25

MY STUFF

Elizabeth Schuster

executive chef, The Scottish Arms written by Catherine Neville SHOT ON LOCATION AT Soulard Farmers’ Market

Tell me about your “pastry chef” and his bread program. Ha! Every time I call my sous chef, Jake Alcorn, my “pastry chef” his brow furrows and his face turns a little redder than usual. The whole staff here teases him about his well-developed pastry abilities. He’s very exact and at the same time a “from the gut” kind of chef. He’s been brilliantly working on his bread recipes. Adjusting, tweaking. We’re calling our bread basket the European Union. A mish mash of most-loved Euro breads: Focaccia, House Scotch Rye and Challah. And tell me about your garden! Owner Ally Nisbet and I went out and bought the plants together. We spent a morning planting basil, rosemary, mache, sage, three different varietals of thyme and heirloom tomatoes to name a few. [We were] up to our elbows in dirt talking about how delicious everything was going to be. It was exactly the reassurance I needed as a chef that I was truly home. Although, Ally was hesitant to buy me the German thyme I so desired.

“It’s going to take over the whole garden, Lizzie! It’s going to be an herbal blitzkrieg!”

How do you keep the balance between traditional Scottish fare and lighter, modern dishes? Scottish fare is actually not that heavy. They use seasonal ingredients all year round, fresh berries, fruits and veg. Their seafood is some of the best and most varied in the world. As a chef who enjoys rustic, honest fare, the connection between Scottish food and my German heritage is simple. Food for local people. Food from farms and fishermen.

What was the first dish you remember cooking? Making a meatloaf with my mom.

I still think her meatloaf is mystical. What do you really think of haggis? Love, love haggis. I’ve been coming to the Arms for a few years now. First time I tried it, it reminded me of leberwurst. Deep, iron, yumminess. What’s in your fridge right now? Leftover bean soup I made a week ago, wasabi mayo, half a tray of sushi from Whole Foods, Manchego cheese, some quince paste and three cans of Stag beer.

What would be your last meal? My mom’s meatloaf, cold, on toast, with mayo.

26

feastSTL.com

JUNE 2012

The Scottish Arms 8 S. Sarah St. Central West End 314.535.0551 thescottisharms.com Visit feastSTL.com to read the full interview with Elizabeth Schuster.

PHOTOGRAPHY By Jonathan Gayman

Elizabeth Schuster, whose father’s family owned a bakery, “grew up amidst Germaninfluenced cooks and bakers,” she says. She describes her culinary perspective as, “local, honest, seasonal and Eurocentric,” and she’s giving the traditional fare at The Scottish Arms a modern twist. Most recently the banquet chef at The Chase Park Plaza, Schuster says her hotel experience allowed her to work, “large volume and high profile events. I learned exactly what I could do in a limited amount of time. Here at the Arms, I have applied my hotel culinary math, but have honed in on flavor, aesthetics and, most importantly, I’m so much closer to my food sources.”

St. Louis’ Favorite Macaroni & Cheese Cheese-ology offers a new twist on an American Classic, Macaroni & Cheese. Located in the heart of The Loop, Cheese-ology welcomes diners to try one of their many unique flavor combinations. With dishes such as the Black & Bleu, Bacon Bacon, a Vegan Mac, or your Classic Mac & Cheese, Cheese-ology is guaranteed to have a Macaroni & Cheese for everyone. We hope you will visit us and enjoy one of our Macaroni & Cheese dishes soon! &'"- $" ( )0%- .,/ ( &-#'+-!* Tues-Thurs 11am-9pm Fri-Sat 11am-10pm Sun 12pm-9pm

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Fun Food, Happy People, Great Drinks!

FEAST FAVE 1 7:;" ?:;:5+ (8";% 6C$##"5 >:;" =ABC 6CA;" <:>"D :85 E:!;A6. ;"9$8 @A8:AE!"BB" :85 -:!9"D:8 6CA#D PATIO OPENING IN JUNE *A!DB 0$9" *A!DB ?"!@" &2$ !"D"!@:BA$8D4 /#"8 3$8 , *!A DB:!BA8E :B '' :9 :85 ?:B DB:!BA8E :B ') :9

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Enjoy our outdoor patio with friends Once known as the only "local" landmark restaurant serving the Alton, Illinois area, “Castelli’s Moonlight at 255”, is now a St. Louis area favorite drawing diners from around the world.

Open at 11a.m. daily for lunch and dinner (closed Mondays).

A FREE LUNCH - Please ask about our lunch punch cards.

Chicken, steak, pasta, seafood, salads, and sandwhiches.

Dine-In or Carry-Out, Full Bar, Large Groups Gift Cards Available.

31&& '#>="!5;!? :/( + -9=#4* 80 + ,%)(1,$(1,$& + 27>="99<>$..(2#6

Great Wines & Specialty Beers Wine Shop & Tasting Bar...Whether you’re a seasoned wine drinker with a specific palate or a new wine drinker unsure of what to try or what you might like, Chateau La Vin is the place for you.

Just a short drive to Columbia, IL brings you to Chateau La Vin, the St. Louis region's newest wine shop and tasting bar!

Come enjoy our warm and cozy setting, taste some old favorites and tempt your palate with something new! Enjoy our cheese selections along with your wine and make it a fun afternoon or evening with friends. Wine not your thing?

We have a great selection of specialty beers, too! +B$A$ .$?! A#C% $" =B#::% ;B$!5A$5

''* =$?AB 28@5 =A!##A 0 .$:?76@8- 93 0 1',)&,'),''/ 0 3@<# ?C $5 (84#6$$<

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Inspired Food Culture

JUNE 2012

27

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Visit West County Volvo and ask about the Volvo Overseas Delivery program or call (636) 227-8303, visit www.volvocars.us/mybagsarepacked or join us on facebook.com/volvooverseasdelivery.

gadget a-go-go

|2|

Put to the test

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|1| |3|

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Vegetable

Peelers written by Pat Eby

Photography by Laura Ann Miller

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Kenmore Elite Durable Stainless Steel Y-Peeler

Kyocera Horizontal Y-Peeler

PROS

PROS

Beautifully machined stainless steel blades and housing attach to a biggerthan-average ergonomically designed handle. This peeler begs for big hands.

Comfortable grip. A swish through soapy water after use dislodges scrapings quickly. Dishwasher-safe.

A keenly honed ceramic blade removes the thinnest scrapes of peel.

This peeler is so light that you hardly feel it in your hand but so powerful that it glides under asparagus scales and broccoli bumps without stopping the slide. The blade bites lightly into vegetables without hesitation and pulls full-down quickly. The potato-eye removers on each side of the blade reverse so lefties can pop with ease too. An über-peeler with the best performance on the widest range of vegetables. A good value as well.

CONS

The blade jittered on older, slightly soft russet potatoes and Jonathan apples. Bumps and lumps stopped the tool, which required repositioning to resume cutting. The wider head didn’t remove significantly more peel.

Joseph Joseph Switch SelfStoring, TwinBladed Peeler

CONS

$9.99; Kmart, multiple locations, kmart.com

Carrots stained the white ceramic blade orange during testing. With a blade this sharp, you can’t run a dishcloth over the head to clean it. $9.95; Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, kitchencopia.com

PROS

A compact peeler with both a straight blade and a julienne cutter. The bold design swivels and clicks each head into place. The grab-and-pull motion from the fingers snugs the straight cutting blade into the hollows and hugs the curves of big sweet potatoes.

The head stays the course on knobby red potatoes and warty cucumbers too. Joseph Joseph’s bold design innovations deserve praise, but . . .

CONS

The julienne blade works only sporadically. Long, thin trails of sweet potato look appetizing but take too much time. Carrots fight back when the ragged blade pulls over them, and apples mush under the pressure.

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KitchenAid Hand Held Y-Peeler PROS

The short, fat handle puts the vegetable close to the blade, which makes it easy to adjust pressure for thick or fine slivers. Easiest-ever carrot curls, zucchini ribbons and gossamer sweet potato rounds without a mandoline. A sweet hand feel, stainless steel blades and dishwasher-safe. The triple crown for an inexpensive tool.

CONS

Nothing remiss with this peeler. $5.24; Target, multiple locations, target.com

Zyliss Y-Peeler PROS

A nice, smooth hand feel with an ace cutting blade that swivels freely but attends to contours judiciously.

Superspeedy prep on spuds – senior russets and new reds alike. No hesitation cuts on the woodiest asparagus spears. Makes quick work of balky broccoli stems and skins baking apples with ease.

CONS

No gaffes during testing with this inexpensive peeler, but the blade is hardened steel, not stainless. $7.99; Bertarelli Cutlery, 1927 Marconi Ave., The Hill, bertarellicutlery.com

$9.95; Sur la Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.com

che

ck it

Blades: Look for a thin, razored edge to cut cleanly and decisively.

Of the five peelers tested, the ceramic blade provided the smoothest glide and shaved the thinnest slivers of peel. Over a three-week test period, stainless steel, steel and ceramic blades all remained keen-edged, but sales professionals at two out of five retail stores expressed a clear preference for ceramic blades.

Both said the ceramic blade stays sharper longer than steel.

Fruit and veggie versatility: If you prep only potatoes and carrots, any basic peeler will do. The newer Y-peelers and handhelds cut a swath with odd kohlrabi, cobbled celery root, attenuated parsnips and even oyster root. A serrated-blade peeler is better suited to soft fruits such as peaches and tomatoes.

Size: Big isn’t always better. Wider blades didn’t take fewer passes to pare peels. Smaller heads maneuvered over bumpy spots and woody places with ease, while the biggest blade stalled at every node and knot.

Handles or grip: The fatter the handle, the easier the pull. No painful wrist-twists or crunched hand bones with the peelers we tested. Ergonomic design rules.

Safety: Store peelers in a separate compartment in the utensils drawer because the newer blades, especially the ceramics, cut deep and quick. Choose a bright color or a bold shape to remind you to handle them with caution.

out

F ea e x t st ra

W h at to l oo k for :

Grab one of these handy peelers to prep your favorite summer produce. Check out our online recipe database at feastSTL.com/recipes for delicious seasonal dishes!

Inspired Food Culture

JUNE 2012

29

!

ON the shelf

BEER written by Michael Sweeney

The creator of STLHops.com and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the craft beer manager at Lohr Distributing.

O’Fallon Brewery’s Kite Tail Summer Ale STYLE: Cream Ale (4.6% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Schnucks, multiple locations, schnucks. com; $7.99 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles) Pairings: Hot dog • Caprese salad

O’Fallon Brewery fills the seasonal gap left when Wheach went year-round with Kite Tail Summer Ale. Despite being called a cream ale, this beer features no dairy. Instead, it has a generous portion of wheat and a touch of flaked corn to give it a full mouthfeel. This light-bodied beer will be a big hit at this summer’s cookouts.

SPIRITS written by Chad Michael George

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

Lillet Rosé Provenance: France (17% abv) Available at: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $17.99 Try it: On the rocks or as a substitute for sweet vermouth

Maison Lillet is producing its first new product in 50 years ‒ a pink sibling to its well-known Blanc and Rouge bottlings. The Rosé is created with the same red and white Grand Cru Bordeaux varietals as the other Lillet products, which are paired with orange liqueurs created from Spanish and Hatian orange peels, a touch of quinine, and a secret mixture of other fruit liqueurs. It is heavy with floral notes but not so much that it becomes cloyingly sweet.

Unibroue’s Éphémère Apple

Snap

STYLE: White Ale/Fruit Beer (5.5% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Whole Foods Market, multiple locations, wholefoodsmarket.com; $6.99 (750-ml bottle) Pairings: Apple tart • Smoked duck breast

Provenance: Philadelphia (40% abv) Available at: The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com; $33.99 Try it: Neat or as a sweet addition to your favorite Manhattan recipe

I don’t know about you, but I’m tired of these weird synthetic fruit flavors in beers. It’s a beer, not a Starburst. Luckily, Unibroue makes the best fruit beer available in St. Louis: the Éphémère Apple. It’s tart and crisp, like a Granny Smith apple, with a gentle funk from the unique Unibroue yeast, striking a perfect balance between fruit and beer.

Anchor Brewing Co.’s Anchor Summer Beer STYLE: American Wheat Beer (4.5% abv) AVAILABLE AT: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $10.29 (sixpack, 12-oz bottles) Pairings: Casado • Barbecue pork steak

Back in 1984, Anchor Brewing’s original owner, Fritz Maytag, went to reach for something light and refreshing after a long day at work. Upon realizing that all of the light stuff was made by the big breweries, he set out to create a light wheat beer. This wheat beer is filtered, so you won’t find the haze typical of wheat beers. But the lack of haze doesn’t make the beer any less delicious.

Art in the Age is a Pennsylvania-based distiller, and its second product just hit our shelves. Snap is literally the ingredients of a classic ginger snap, or lebkuchen, as the Pennsylvania Dutch call it, distilled in an organic spirit. Blackstrap molasses is the base for this sweet and spicy spirit. The flavor is dominated by molasses and ginger with a nice vanilla finish. Snap plays exceptionally well with whiskey, especially in small doses.

Ron del Barrilito 3 Star Rum Provenance: Puerto Rico (43% abv) Available at: Randall’s, multiple locations, shoprandalls. com; $35.99 Try it: Over one big ice cube or in a classic daquiri

Ron del Barrilito has been a hidden gem of Puerto Rico for quite some time. The Puerto Rican rum market is dominated by Bacardi, the No. 1 rum producer on the planet, but that does not mean there are not better rums from the island. This may be my favorite fairly priced Puerto Rican rum. Barrilito 3 Star is aged six to 10 years in used whiskey barrels. The nose has a distinct nuttiness with some soft honey and pepper notes.

On the palate, this rum has a slight smokiness akin to scotch with a strong buttery and vanilla-dominant finish.

OUR TOP PICKS FOR JUNE Pouring wine photography by ©iStockphoto.com/Lauri Patterson

WINE written by Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann shares her passion for all things epicurean through her event and consultation business, which is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.

Bodegas Atalaya Laya 2010 Provenance: Castilla-La Mancha, Spain Available at: Straub’s Markets, multiple locations, straubs.com; $7.99 Pairings: Meatloaf • Grilled vegetables • Smoked meats

A familiar blend of 70 percent Garnacha and 30 percent Monastrell, this Spanish red is full of ripe red fruit and floral notes, with sweet herbs in the finish. While smooth and silky enough to be sipped alone, this wine is also sufficiently complex and structured to be enjoyed with hearty meals. It’s a nice complement to grilled meats with spice rubs and slight charring.

Pisoni Vineyards Lucy Rosé of Pinot Noir 2011 Provenance: Santa Lucia Highlands, Calif.

Available at: The Vino Gallery, 4701 McPherson Ave., Central West End, thevinogallery.com; $19.99 Pairings: Grilled kabobs • Salmon

The cooler climate of central California contributes heavily to this stunning rosé of Pinot Noir, which flaunts a complex balance of juicy flavors and enchanting aromas of ripe red berries and watermelon. The combination of neutral oak and stainless steel fermentation allows for brisk, mouthwatering acidity and soft yet lush texture.

As a summer sipper, celebration starter or picnic pairing, this wine is versatile and compelling.

Val de Mer Petit Chablis 2010 Provenance: Chablis, France Available at: St. Louis Wine Market & Tasting Room, 164 Chesterfield Commons E., Chesterfield, stlwinemarket.com; $22 Pairings: Grilled fish • Vegetable risotto • Quiche

Fresh and clean with balanced acidity, this is a straightforward expression of Chardonnay from winemaker Patrick Piuze.

This white from the famed Chablis region is approachable and suitable for both the novice and the seasoned wine drinker. Slightly tart notes of apple and lemon keep your palate invigorated and leave the door open for a variety of food-pairing possibilities.

Join Angela Ortmann and FEAST publisher Catherine Neville for a happy hour wine tasting at Prime 1000 on Thu., June 21, at 6pm.

RSVP to rsvp@stlwinegirl.com.

JOIN US! Inspired Food Culture

JUNE 2012

31

mystery shopper

Chia Cherry “Rice” Pudding Adapted by Clara Moore, Local Harvest Cafe and Catering

Dried cherries, vanilla and cinnamon combine in a sweet pudding made with cow’s milk or almond milk. Chia seeds add texture to this dessert.

Serves | 4 | raw chia seeds cow’s milk or almond milk dried cherries vanilla cinnamon agave nectar

| Preparation | Combine all ingredients and mix well with a whisk or large spoon. Add more agave nectar, if desired, to increase sweetness.

Allow the pudding to stand at least 10 minutes before serving.

MEET: Chia Seeds Move over, quinoa. Stand down, flaxseed.

There’s a new ancient grain in town. Chia seeds are the up-and-coming king of superfoods. And yes, they are the same seeds as those of “Ch-Ch-Ch-Chia” fame.

Although the seeds that you slather on Obama’s clay head aren’t made for consumption, properly processed chia seeds are a great source of omega-3 fatty acids, have more antioxidants than blueberries and help balance blood sugar levels.

Stop by 32

feastSTL.com

Written by Erik Jacobs

What is it?

How do I use it?

Chia is a small, oval-shaped, mottled brown

Chia’s mild flavor allows it to be added to a

seed. Although relatively new to our diets,

variety of dishes without changing the taste of

for centuries it was a source of energy for

the dish. When added to liquids, it transforms

the Mayan and Aztec cultures. Genetically

into a gelled substance. In Mexico, chia is added

related to mint and sage, chia packs a heck

to fruit juices to produce a pudding similar to

of a nutritional punch. Chia is the richest

tapioca. Chia absorbs about 10 times its volume

plant-based source of omega-3 oils and is

in liquid, helping dieters feel full for hours

a complete protein source, as well as an

and providing athletes with hydration during

excellent source of fiber. Throw in that it

strenuous workouts. Sprinkle seeds in salads

aids with weight loss, has amazingly high

or use them to thicken soups and stews. Seeds

antioxidants and provides for stable blood

not your thing? Go ahead and sprout them. The

sugar levels, and you begin to understand its

sprouts taste vaguely like watercress and offer

superfood claims.

the same health benefits.

to pick up more delicious recipes featuring chia seeds. Visit straubs.com for information on its four locations.

JUNE 2012

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jennifer Silverberg

Tbsp 4 2 cups ¼ cup ½ tsp 1 dash 1 tsp

check it out!

Feast extra

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The Place For Steaks In St. Louis For over 25 years Tucker's has consistently prepared top quality American cuisine and steaks cut fresh daily.

Delicious food, a relaxed, cozy atmosphere, terrific service and reasonable prices makes Tucker's what it is today... an excellent dining experience in St. Louis!

South ! 3939 Union Rd. ! 314.845.2584 Soulard ! 2117 South 12th St. ! 314.772.5977 West ! 14282 Manchester Rd. ! 636.227.8062

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Shuttle to ALL Cards home games!

Come In For $2 BBQ Taco Tuesdays!

Our Beer Garden is NOW OPEN! SouthTown Pub has joined with executive chef, Jamie Brust, to form SouthTown Pub and Smoke Shack.

Utilizing many local vendors and markets, we have a unique menu of mouth watering BBQ, featuring five signature sauces. SouthTown Pub has also recently undergone extensive renovation to better serve our customers as well as reflect the unique charm that is South St. Louis City. Our hope is to provide a fun and friendly atmosphere for many years to come.

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We can restyle or custom design your jewelry BRIDAL Contemporary and Vintage Styles DIAMOND JEWELRY Pendants, Earrings & Bracelets LOOSE DIAMONDS Any Shape - Any Size DIAMOND REPLACEMENT Onsite Jewelers While-U-Wait Repairs (most within the hour) WE BUY GOLD

IL: St. ClairAF+ Square from Victoria’s Secret) E?#EIGFH. )D9'(9.8 6.97@-% E $/!?" /1=<*F,,1>>G# MO:AG%$$#H 0@. 5@A&&.% 4'A%%7#&H +.3% E1)BA'9%%DI-# :2 3/ /*,**1 E8(5+-8,+-()) $*!=" ?*F<?!,, >1 888HGC-@.G.8.B.'HCA; 0=;E!(Across A"D;!# 1 *;E!BE#@ <4 1 2(-+2'5+8,)) ;F D0!%HH *=%!EHH;9F. C6FG#C#@#=#!+6%: Inspired Food Culture

JUNE 2012

33

tECH SCHOOL

Terrines STORY AND RECIPE BY Cassy Vires

The word terrine can refer to both food cooked in a mold (en terrine) and the mold itself. As a food, terrines are a form of charcuterie dating back to the 18th century. They can be made with meat, poultry, seafood or vegetables – there are even dessert applications using fruit – and are typically held together by aspic or jelly. While some authorities on the subject tend to lump terrines and pâtés into the same category, I find them to be very different, with the terrine’s use of aspic as a binding agent being the key difference.

Aspic is essentially flavored liquid or stock set with gelatin. Over-the-counter powdered gelatin is perfect for this application. Because aspic can be bland, it’s important to properly season the liquid and use good-quality meat, veggies, fruits or herbs to impart flavor and texture.

Another element that sets terrines apart is their visual presentation. The components of a terrine are thoughtfully layered and arranged within the mold so that when the terrine is sliced, each piece exhibits an artful design.

Just as with pâtés, the seasoning should be aggressive, the ingredients should be kept cold and the molded food should be firmly pressed to remove any air pockets and achieve consistent texture. However, unlike pâtés, terrines don’t necessarily need to be cooked. The summer tomato terrine at right, for example, uses raw heirloom tomatoes that are full of fresh, seasonal flavor. This light dish is quick and easy to make, but go ahead and let people assume you slaved for hours to achieve the stunningly beautiful slices.

Cassy Vires is the owner and chef of Home Wine Kitchen. She received her culinary training in Houston and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes.

COOKING VIDEO!

Watch chef Cassy build a beautiful tomato terrine from start to finish.

Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone (get the free app at gettag.mobi), or watch the video in the Watch & Listen section at feastSTL.com.

34

feastSTL.com

JUNE 2012

Summer Tomato Terrine

Serve it just as you would a summer salad – lightly dressed, topped with some greens and paired with a refreshingly crisp sparkling rosé.

Yield | 1 terrine | 4 lbs

12

¼ cup 2 Tbsp 1 Tbsp

1 oz

multicolor heirloom cherry tomatoes large heirloom tomatoes basil leaves kosher salt freshly ground black pepper powdered gelatin salad greens balsamic vinegar

| Preparation | Separate the cherry tomatoes by color and slice in half. Set aside until ready to use. Halve the large heirloom tomatoes and squeeze the pulp, seeds and flesh into the bowl of a food processor or blender. Add basil, salt and pepper and purée until smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a large measuring cup. Add enough cold water to equal 3 cups of liquid.

Place liquid in a saucepot and bring to a simmer.

Place ¼ cup cold water in a small bowl and sprinkle gelatin on top. Let sit for 5 minutes.

Add the gelatin mixture to the simmering tomato water and stir to dissolve.

tomato water over the top, gently tapping the mold to release any air pockets. Add additional tomato water, if needed, to completely cover the tomatoes.

| 3 | Cover the terrine with the | 1 | Lightly oil a terrine mold and line with plastic wrap, allowing excess wrap to hang over the sides of the mold. Add enough tomato water to fill ¼-inch of the mold. Refrigerate for 10 minutes to allow it to slightly set. Add one color of the cherry tomatoes in even layer. Add additional tomato water to just cover the tomatoes. | 2 | Continue layering the tomatoes by color, adding tomato water between each round. Work quickly to ensure the gelatin doesn’t set. Once the terrine mold is filled with tomatoes, pour a final layer of

excess plastic wrap and gently push down on the surface with the lid or a cutting board. Place weights on the surface of the terrine and refrigerate for at least 8 hours.

Once set, run a thin knife around the outside of the terrine and | 4 | invert onto a cutting board or platter, gently pulling on the plastic wrap to help unmold. Gently remove the plastic wrap. Slice the terrine with a sharp knife and dress each slice with fresh salad greens, remaining cherry tomatoes and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar.

|1|

|2|

PHOTOGRAPHY by Jennifer Silverberg

|3|

|4| Inspired Food Culture

JUNE 2012

35

how to

how to

Use a Pasta Machine written by Brandon Chuang

There are many ways to impress people in the kitchen, but very few are as easy as making fresh, homemade pasta. Here, we demystify what many think is a kitchen nightmare ‒ using a pasta machine ‒ ensuring that next time you’re in the grocery store, you can skip the pasta aisle.

Divide and conquer Because there are so many different ways to make pasta dough, we suggest that for your first time, you find a simple recipe you feel confident making.

Once you’ve made your dough and let it rest, divide your soon-to-be pasta into equal parts to ensure easy handling and consistency. Each part should be a little smaller than a tennis ball.

Be kneady Most pasta machines have two sides – one for rolling and the other for cutting. The rolling side has a knob that allows you to adjust the thickness of your pasta. Flatten the dough with the palm of your hand, dust it with flour and | 1 | guide it through the rollers on the thickest setting. Once you’ve done this, | 2 | fold the now-flatter piece in thirds like you would a letter. Dust with more flour and pass it through again on the same setting. Folding and refeeding the dough two to three times on each of the first two or three thickness settings aids in kneading the dough, which activates the gluten and results in a pasta that is more elastic and toothsome.

Roll it out Since kneading is necessary only in the initial stages, you don’t have to worry about folding in the latter ones. But because no machine is perfectly aligned, you should send the dough through at least twice on each requisite thickness setting. Guide it through once, re-flour and rotate the dough 180 degrees, running it back through the machine starting with the opposite end. The final thickness is up to you, but most eaters agree that the second-to-last or last setting (i.e., thinnest) is where you want your pasta.

Cut It’s time to send your pasta sheets through the cutter.

If your sheets are too long or difficult to handle, use a knife to cut each sheet to a more manageable length.

Once you’re ready, simply remove the crank from the roller side, attach it to the cutter and begin feeding the sheets through. | 3 | As you crank, make sure to have your free hand ready on the other end of the cutter to catch the pasta as it comes out.

Dusting is good Once you’re done cutting a sheet, place each handful of noodles on a baking sheet dusted in cornmeal.

Moving the pasta around in the cornmeal and setting it aside while you continue cutting will ensure that the noodles don’t stick to each other. As an added bonus, cornmeal won’t gum up your pot of boiling salted water whenever you’re ready to enjoy the fruits of your not-so-much labor.

Many first timers are wary of using too much flour. Don’t be. Flour aids in keeping everything smooth and separate. Use a liberal amount with each pass through the rollers, and, if needed, sprinkle more on before cutting to ensure the dough doesn’t stick to the machine and cause tears in your beautiful sheets of homemade pasta.

36

feastSTL.com

JUNE 2012

Illustration by Derek Bauman

Flour Power

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Inspired Food Culture

JUNE 2012

37

EASY EATS

Dinner, chop-chop!

Story and recipe by Tory Bahn

Though not as prevalent on American dinner tables as beef or pork, lamb is making its way into the spotlight as an interesting alternative to the usual summer grilling fare. With a rich and distinctive flavor, lamb is best prepared simply roasted, sautéed or grilled. The loin chop offers the same great flavor as the rib chop at a better value and is complemented by almost any variety of herb. For this easy and delicious marinade recipe, experiment with whatever herbs you have on hand.

JOIN US! rsvp:

m schnuckscooks.co or 314.909.1704 Serves | 4 to 6 |

| Preparation | In a small bowl, mix

halfway through marinating period.

¼ cup ¼ cup ¼ cup 1 Tbsp 1½ tsp 2 Tbsp 1½ tsp 1½ tsp

6 1 tsp ¼ tsp

together oil, lemon juice, vinegar, mustard, honey, garlic, oregano and mint. Place lamb chops in a large resealable plastic bag or shallow glass container and pour marinade over the chops. Seal bag or cover container with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Turn bag over, or turn chops in container,

Preheat your grill. Season lamb chops with salt and pepper before placing them on the grill. Cook the first side for approximately 3 to 5 minutes, or until the chop releases easily from the grill. Flip chops and grill for another 3 to 5 minutes for medium-rare or until desired doneness.

|

grape-seed oil lemon juice balsamic vinegar Dijon mustard honey minced garlic dried oregano dried mint 4- to 5-oz lamb loin chops kosher salt freshly ground black pepper

CHEF’S

|

Herb’s the word. Dried herbs have a more potent flavor than fresh. If you have fresh herbs on hand, you can use them in this marinade, but be sure to chop them fine and double the amount to achieve the same level of flavor you’d get from dried herbs.

Grill skills. Before grilling the chops, thoroughly preheat the grill and brush off any burnt bits that may be stuck on the grill irons from previous use. Once you place the chops on the grill, resist the impulse to move them around, as this will tear the meat. The chops initially stick to the grill as they go through the Maillard reaction, or the browning of the meat that creates beautiful color, crisp texture and depth of flavor. Once this process is complete, the meat will easily release from the grill.

Catch and release. Marinating tenderizes the meat and increases its ability to retain moisture. Seasoning the chops with salt just before you place them on the grill will draw moisture out of the meat.

Join FEAST and Schnucks Cooking School on Wed., June 27, at 6pm to make the tasty dishes in the menu above. Tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine.

RSVP at schnuckscooks.com.

Check out feastSTL.com for a step-by-step slide show on making this month’s dish.

PHOTOGRAPHY by Jennifer Silverberg

38

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JUNE 2012

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Join them as they playfully explore the world's cuisines and engage others culture's flavors in unimaginable ways that are rarely seen in the Midwest, combining classical recipes and techniques to create new flavors and presentations.

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MUSIC AND EVENTS CALENDAR

Enjoy Our Great Days Of Wine & Rosé There is truly no better month of the year than June to visit Chandler Hill to soak in beautiful spring days while enjoying our outstanding wines.

This month we’re proud to introduce our brand new “Cold Spring” Estate Rosé. Guests are proclaiming this one of the BEST they’ve tasted – not too dry... light, bright and just right!

We’re open daily so stop in for lunch or dinner and enjoy the view overlooking the vineyards and scenic lake from our majestic deck.

Saturday, June 2 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Encore Sunday, June 3 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Adonis Blues Saturday, June 9 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Soulard Blues Band Sunday, June 10 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Downstereo Saturday, June 16 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm The Zonkeys

Sunday, June 17 - FATHER’S DAY 1:00pm to 4:00pm Downstereo (Farmer’s Market Open Noon to 4:00 pm)

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feastSTL.com

JUNE 2012

Thursday, June 7th - 5:00pm to 8:00pm

Come meet our special guest, native St. Louis Winemaker Tyler Thomas from world famous Donelan Family Wines in Sonoma, California.

Tastings of 4 of Tyler’s wines will be complemented with delicious Chandler Hill passed hors d’oeuvres. hase ha Donelan wines will be available for purchase ses es by the glass along with bottle purchases not no at special prices. These wines are not utt available in the St. Louis market, but will be for this one special night! $10 for wine club members, and $25/person for general public.

Reservations required for this evening.

Saturday, June 23 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm The Falling Martins

Saturday, June 30 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm The Scandaleros

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Special Wine Evening with Tyler Thomas!

Father’s Day Food & Fun! Sunday June 17th - All Day

This Father’s Day, bring the entire family to enjoy our regular menu plus specials including: Slow smoked prime rib with corn on the cob.

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Farmer’s Market will be open from noon to 4:00pm.

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JUNE 2012

41

The MAKING OF A

MENU

Written by Brandi Wills

|

Recipe development photography by Jennifer Silverberg

|

Italy photography by Gerard Craft and Adam Altnether

When you walk into a restaurant and pick up a menu, you’re holding in your hand much more than a list of meal options.

The menu is a direct line of communication from the chef to the diner that says: “This is what I believe in. This is what my restaurant is about.” When Gerard Craft and Adam Altnether decided to bring another Italian restaurant to the St. Louis food scene, they knew they had to take a different approach. The menu, the entire philosophy behind the restaurant, in fact, had to offer new ideas. The chefs sum up the guiding principle behind the development of their latest venture, Pastaria, in two words: “the truth.” “‘The truth’ is defined as the best it can be, to us,” says Craft. “It’s honest and pure. Pastaria is something everyone can understand. It’s not intimidating. We want to reach as many people as possible with affordable, fun food that’s approachable for families. And we want people to have a phenomenal meal at that level.”

To bring “the truth” to Pastaria, Craft and Altnether embarked on a 10-day research

trip throughout Italy to experience firsthand how ingredients are produced, how dishes are made and how meals are served in everyday restaurants. “We’re trying to bring [the diner] the feeling of the day-to-day in that culture – in the design, the food, all the elements – so it was important to immerse ourselves in as much of their culture as possible. We had to go to Italy in order to know what needs to end up on the plate,” says Craft.

It begs the question, however, of why a chef whose career has been built on upscale modernist cuisine wants to bring an authentic, family-friendly dining experience to a community already well-versed in Italian food.

“The Internet is making modern food the same around the world,” says Craft. “Regionalism will become more important in modern cuisine as a way for chefs to reclaim originality.

Niche makes a statement about the Midwest

because we build its menu around ingredients that come from this region.”

With Pastaria, Craft and Altnether blend Midwest regionalism with Italian tradition.

“Pastaria isn’t just about how Italy does it but how we can do it in Missouri,” says Craft. “I’m not one for 100 percent tradition, and I think that comes through in my food. But you have to know where those traditions come from [before you can improvise on them.] That’s what separates the good cooks from the rest.

If I say I’m going to open an Italian restaurant and [I say] it’s going to be true Italian food, then I need to know the people behind it.”

To understand how Craft and Altnether will create a menu that reflects “the truth” about Italian cuisine, we go behind the scenes with the chefs as they travel Italy, taste dishes and test recipes in preparation for the opening of their much-anticipated restaurant.

OPPOSITE PAGE: Altnether and Craft's chitarra con pomodoro. ABOVE: Osteria il Cortile, in Castel di Sangro. BELOW FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Altnether and Craft test potential dishes for the Pastaria menu.

mastering the simplicity of pasta Craft and Altnether have plenty of experience creating impressive pasta dishes, but the duo's new venture is about more than highlighting their culinary talents. “Just as Brasserie is a reflection of bistros in Paris, Pastaria will be like the osterias in Italy,” says Craft. “We had a couple drafts of a menu before heading to Italy.

We had ideas of what we wanted to do [on the menu]. We went into the trip looking for pasta ‒ as much pasta as we could find. And what we found was that we needed to simplify it. Italy is about simplicity.”

While driving through the Abruzzo region of Italy, Craft and Altnether stopped in the small town of Castel di Sangro and decided to have lunch at a restaurant called Osteria il Cortile.

“We walked in and the place was pretty empty, so we didn't expect a good meal,” says Craft.

They were surprised, however, by a memorable meal of well-made pasta presented simply and honestly. One dish, chitarra con pomodoro, stood out. Chitarra is a thicker version of spaghetti named after the guitarlike device used to cut it, and pomodoro, which means tomato in Italian, is a basic tomato-basil sauce.

“As chefs, we have a tendency to overthink everything. We want to make every dish complicated and unique,” says Craft. “Pomodoro may seem cliché, but it's an honest approach to Italian cuisine. And that makes it an ideal dish for our menu. It’s ‘the truth,’ and ‘the truth’ is what we’re shooting for all the time in life.”

Months later, back in the Niche kitchen, Craft and Altnether set about re-creating that dish they enjoyed in Abruzzo. Altnether mixes a basic semolina-and-water dough in their pasta machine; it will pass through the machine's extruder and be shaped into chitarra. When pasta is made by hand, the dough is kneaded until it becomes a smooth, elastic ball. However, in the machine, Altnether is looking for a dry,

ABOVE: Ricotta tortellini with artichokes, a traditional dish in Orvieto, will appear on the menu.

sandy consistency. “You don’t want gluten forming when using an extruder to make pasta,” he explains. “The machine shapes the pasta with pressure, so you don’t need gluten to help retain its shape. If gluten does form, you get gummy, unevenly shaped pasta. Without the gluten, the pasta will have a nice shape and superior texture and bite. Most people think the machine is a cure-all, but you can definitely do it wrong with a machine.” Once the pasta is shaped, it's stored in the freezer until ready to cook. Freezing helps dry the pasta while retaining its freshness.

Craft heads to the stovetop to whip up a batch of pomodoro for the dish. During this test, he uses canned San Marzano tomatoes, although he's hoping to establish a preservation program with local farms so his restaurants can use local produce year-round. It's an ambitious goal but one he is hoping to achieve. “This is such a simple sauce so it's all about ingredients,” Craft says. “That's why it's important to me to work with farmers on preserving their goods.” When the sauce is cooked through, Craft purées it.

Pomodoro is not traditionally puréed, but he likes the end result: a brightly colored sauce that evenly coats the noodle. Small liberties such as this, which don't compromise the integrity of the dish, are how he imparts his personal touch on an otherwise classic Italian pasta.

The fresh pasta is quickly boiled, tossed with the sauce and topped with a fresh grating of pecorino, which is local to Abruzzo and adds an element of Craft's original Italian experience to the dish. He and Altnether find their first attempt at the pasta to be undercooked, resulting in a gummy bite. A second batch is cooked, and this time Craft stands over the pot, anxiously watching and resisting the urge to pull it out. The second attempt is tossed with more pomodoro and the two chefs taste it. It is declared overcooked, and they head back to the drawing board. As the classic story goes, though the first was too hard and the second was too soft, the

third batch is just right. With fresh pasta, a few seconds too many or too few in boiling water can greatly impact the quality of the entire dish.

So how will Pastaria produce consistent quality in its pasta dishes, especially when the kitchen is slammed on a crowded Friday night? “That's where extensive training of the staff comes in,” says Craft. “It's always the simplest dishes that take so much work.”

finding the perfect Pizza Dough Making true Neapolitan pizza, as defined by the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana, is a very intricate process and is difficult to reproduce.

Firsthand knowledge of pizza made according to these regulations was key to the chefs' ability to bring an acceptable Neapolitan-style pizza to Pastaria. Their transcendental pizza experience took place at Da Michele, considered by many to be Naples' most famous pizzeria. Da Michele serves only two pizzas – margherita (tomato, basil and mozzarella) and marinara (tomato, garlic and oregano) – but Craft and Altnether still found a two-hour-plus wait upon arriving at the restaurant at open. Deemed by both chefs to be “the best pizza ever,” it was the crust that made all the difference. “The biggest impact on the taste was that there was no bitterness in the blistering,” says Altnether. “[To achieve that] it depends on the temperature in the oven, the proximity of the pizza to the flame and the movement of the pizza as it cooks. It takes a lot of attention.”

Craft had been developing his ideal pizza crust for over a year and a half when he tasted Da Michele's pizza, and after returning home, he and Altnether set about applying what they'd learned in Naples to what he calls their “triedand-true” pizza dough recipe.

In Craft's backyard stands a 28-inch Forno Bravo wood oven. The wood oven at Pastaria will be 7 feet by 7 feet, which will allow for more variation in temperature on the deck (the cooking surface) and thus greater control over the blistering

LEFT: Da Michele pizzeria in Naples. ABOVE: Craft testing pizza dough in his backyard oven.

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Neapolitan PIZZA

Charring on Neapolitan pizza, Craft says, is a misconception. You see it on the sides of the crust but since the bottom is the first thing to meet your tongue with every bite, charring on the bottom will make the entire pizza taste burnt.

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and charring of the crust. However, for testing purposes, the backyard model will do. Craft builds a fire in the back of the oven and aims for a deck temperature of 600ºF. “We want the base [of the pizza] to cook through, the sides to blister, the sauce to boil and the ingredients to cook,” says Craft. “And the bottom should be goldenbrown and crisp, but not burnt.” Charring on Neapolitan pizza, Craft says, is a misconception.

You see it on the sides of the crust but since the bottom is the first thing to meet your tongue with every bite, charring on the bottom will make the entire pizza taste burnt. During testing, according to Craft, the first pizza will usually burn. However, the room-temperature dough is so much colder than the oven's deck that it cools down the surface enough for the second pizza to cook without burning.

The tried-and-true dough, made with a hearty winter wheat and dry yeast, has already proved itself a worthy candidate for emulating the chewy, bubbly crust that is the trademark of Neapolitan-style pizza. However, Craft feels it's missing something in the flavor. So he pits his old faithful against a new contender, made with wild yeast that he hopes will impart a slight sourness he recalls in the pizzas he ate in Naples.

To create a standard against which the new dough will be measured, he makes a margherita pizza with the tried-and-true dough. It performs beautifully and creates an excellent example.

“Our litmus test for picking a dough recipe is whether we'd eat the pizza every day. And I'd eat this pizza every day for the rest of my life,” says Craft. After a slight hesitation, and a few more chews, he adds, “But I still want a bit of sour in the dough.”

The wild yeast in the new dough came from “a friend of a friend of a friend,” says Craft. The dough comes out of the storage container a bit wet, and Craft has difficulty stretching it. He adds extra cornmeal to the peel, but the dough still sticks to it, causing the dough to tear coming off the peel into the oven. Craft and Altnether

ABOVE: Braised beef and carrots, a dish the chefs had in Italy, is planned for the Pastaria menu.

peer anxiously into the oven, waiting for the pizza dough to rise, but it doesn't. Altnether yanks it from the oven. “Well,” he laughs, “it's definitely artisanal.” While they were waiting for the dough to rise, the bottom became burnt, so the two chuck the failed attempt and try again.

Craft explains that when making pizza dough, the wetter the dough, the better the texture in the cooked product. However, wet dough is also difficult to work with, so it's important to find the right moisture balance. In addition to this dough being too wet, Craft theorizes it wasn't allowed to proof long enough for the yeast to become active. “Failure is a good thing,” he says.

“It's an important part of the learning process.”

He grabs another round of the wild-yeast dough.

Now that it has been sitting uncovered for a while, it's a bit drier and stretches better. An even more liberal coating of cornmeal on the peel delivers this pizza to the oven in one piece. It comes out nicely cooked, with a golden-brown bottom and small blistering on the sides. However, this pizza didn't rise either. Craft and Altnether taste the pizza anyway and find that while the texture is inferior to the tried-and-true dough, this version has that sourness Craft is pining for. The two discuss the option of using the tried-and-true dough recipe to achieve the texture they want and adding a wild yeast – late enough in the process that it stays inactive – to flavor the dough.

The chefs will also test the dough to see how the crust holds up over time, as they plan to offer pizza delivery, first in the Clayton city center and eventually expanding beyond those boundaries.

For now, they are still searching for that perfect balance of texture and flavor. They'll keep experimenting with yeasts until they find what they're looking for. “We're not doing this just because it's harder,” says Craft. “If we can make it better, we have to do it. That's how we always approach recipe development: If we find a way that's better, we make ourselves do it.”

translating their travels into dishes While pasta and pizza are no-brainers on an Italian menu, appetizers and entrées offer Craft and Altnether the chance to bring more unique experiences from their travels to the Pastaria diner.

Crudités – raw vegetables with olive oil for dipping – may seem too prosaic or ubiquitous to represent such a rich culinary culture, but in fact the dish brings multiple regional dining traditions to the table. “First off, it's a nice, light start to what you know is going to be a heavy meal,” says Craft. “And depending on what region [of Italy] you're in, the dipping oil might have aged balsamic, like they serve it in EmiliaRomagna, or just salt and pepper, like in Tuscany.”

Craft cuts up some carrots, spring onions, celery and fennel and pours olive oil into two dishes.

At the stovetop, he adds some balsamic vinegar to a pan and reduces it. Before pouring it into the olive oil, he takes a taste. It's not right.

He searches the Niche kitchen for something better and returns with a bottle of aged sherry vinegar. “When people think of balsamic vinegar, they think of Modena,” says Craft. “But balsamic also comes from Reggio Emilia (in the Emilia-Romagna region). The balsamic made there is more balanced and more acidic. The sherry vinegar doesn't taste the same, but it's closer. And it will tell us something.” He pours a bit into one dish of olive oil and tastes it. It's immediately apparent to Craft that close isn't cutting it. He and Altnether agree they will have to import balsamic vinegar from Reggio Emilia.

To make the second dipping oil, Craft grabs a dish containing a mixture of salt and pepper, scoops a small amount into a spoon and throws it at the dish of oil. About half makes it in. Altnether sees what Craft is doing and understands. “No. The guy used a demi spoon,” he says. At a restaurant they visited in Emilia-Romagna, when their server brought out the crudités, he poured olive

LEFT: Rounds of Parmesan in Parma. ABOVE: Carne cruda ‒ chopped tenderloin, olive oil and salt, garnished with lemon ‒ was served to the chefs in Chianti and will be on the appetizer menu.

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oil into a dish and, from an impressive distance, “shot a pellet of salt and pepper into it,” explains Altnether. Armed with their own demi spoons and arsenals of salt and pepper, the chefs attempt to re-create his trick, throwing scoops of salt and pepper all over the table surrounding the dishes, while laughing, until they finally master the shot. They look at each other and Craft says, “We have to train the staff to do this.”

Those dining moments that surprised, and even entertained, the two chefs on their travels through Italy will undoubtedly influence their decisions to include a dish in the Pastaria menu.

“When we visited Ancona, in Marche, I found it bizarre that this town known for pork and red tuna considered stoccafisso a staple dish,” says Craft. “It's right on the water, yet they're eating this dried cod from Scandinavia.” Craft and Altnether visited a restaurant famous for its stoccafisso, which is slow-cooked in olive oil with potatoes. “It sounds simple but the flavors are complex,” says Craft. “The dish changed my notion of salt cod. It was almost life-changing. It was my favorite dish in Italy.”

As Craft knows by now, a simple Italian dish takes a lot of work. He starts with salt cod that has been soaking in multiple changes of water for one day, a gallon of olive oil and a few pounds of Yukon Gold potatoes. But what to do next causes the two chefs to take pause. They agree that the potatoes and fish should be cooked together, but what to cook them in is another matter. Craft thinks they should go in a pot of 100 percent olive oil, while Altnether suggests cooking them in equal parts oil and water.

When asked how the chefs handle disagreements that arise during recipe testing, Craft answers, “We talk it through,” while Altnether jokes, “We do it Gerard's way.” But neither of those things happens. Instead, without a word from either chef, one pot gets filled with olive oil and a second pot gets filled with oil and water. The fish and potatoes are divvied between the two pots, and aromatics – in the form of

ABOVE: Burrata with fresh herbs and grilled bread.

lemon peel, thyme, peppercorns, garlic and bay leaf – are added to both. The pots are placed on induction burners set to 200ºF and left to simmer. The pan with straight olive oil gets hotter faster and the temperature is reduced a few times to keep it from bubbling beyond a simmer.

Although they were expected to take numerous hours to cook, the potatoes in the oil-water mixture are done after just an hour. A quick taste test of the fish and potatoes shows that the water sucked too much moisture from the fish and created a “boiled texture” in the potatoes.

Without the addition of the water, explains Craft, the potatoes will cook slower, allowing them to absorb more fat for a richer, denser texture and take on more of the salty cod flavor.

During the chef's tasting tour of Italy, they visited a number of regional producers. They toured a cheese-making facility in Parma, where three to four men produce 30-plus wheels of Parmesan a day. And they saw the same thing at a facility in the mountains of Marche, where Pecorino is made.

When the contents of the straight-olive-oil pan are cooked through, Craft plates the cod and potatoes and dresses the dish with sautéed smashed green olives, lemon juice and parsley.

These are his own additions, not found in the dish he enjoyed so much in Ancona. “The Italians don't seem to like as much acidity as we do,” says Craft, “except perhaps in Emilia-Romagna. But we're used to acidic flavors balancing out our dishes, so I feel I need to experiment with acidity to give the food more interest to our diners.”

A trusted guide on their trip was Andrea Bezzecchi, owner of Acetaia San Giacomo, a vinegar house in Reggio Emilia. Bezzecchi introduced them to local chefs, shop owners and butchers as well as some great places to eat. And he talked at length and with pride about what he and his fellow producers are doing to preserve the culinary heritage of his region.

Craft and Altnether dig into the hearty dish.

“The flavors are there,” says Craft, “but it needs different textures. This dish is all about the potatoes, and they need a waxier bite.” The chefs decide that their next test batch will be cooked with pure olive oil but over a lower heat for a longer period of time.

telling a story with ingredients Craft explains that when they are developing the menu at Niche the focus is on ingredients, but the menu at Pastaria will be about recreating an experience. That doesn't mean, however, that ingredients aren't important.

At the Rustichella pasta factory in Abruzzo, they learned how pasta can be made well in large quantities. The few dried pastas that will be served at Pastaria – gluten-free options and bucatini, which Craft and Altnether agree is not currently being made to their satisfaction from the extruder on their pasta machine – will come from Rustichella.

“It all comes back to regionalism,” says Craft. “We have incredible producers here in Missouri, and we're going to use as much local ingredients as we can. But to me, opening an Italian restaurant means representing the people in Italy who are putting care and respect into the ingredients they produce. We'll have pastas from Rustichella, we'll have Andrea's vinegars, and we'll choose some of the best olive oils we tasted in Italy to use in our dishes and sell to our customers.

“We're not so self-absorbed that we think Pastaria is all ours,” says Craft. “It belongs to the people who showed us around Italy and the people who invited us into their kitchens and their homes and the people in Florence, in Marche, in Emilia-Romagna, in Abruzzo who want to share the food produced in those regions. The menu at Pastaria will tell their stories.”

LEFT: Altnether and Craft with the chef at Pizzeria La Notizia in Naples. ABOVE: Crudités.

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battle

of the

Written by Scott Thomas

|

Photography by Jonathan Pollack

Judging by Matt Borchardt, Mike Emerson and Andrew Mark Veety Test grills provided by Lowe’s

|

Shot on location at Dwell 912 B&B

charcoal or gas? This is the first question one asks when considering a new grill. Gas enthusiasts champion the grill’s ease of use and the ability to serve dinner quickly. Briquette-heads counter, saying quickness defeats the purpose of grilling; low and slow is the only way to go, and you can’t beat the added flavor charcoal imparts to the meat. These arguments have been going on since the 1960s, when William Wepfer and Melton Lancaster invented the outdoor gas grill.

What if low and slow was possible on a gas grill and recent technological advances made food cooked on it more tender and juicy? On the other hand, what if food still tasted better cooked over charcoal? Feast Magazine waged a Battle of the Grills to answer these questions.

how the grills work

We chose two testing grills that are affordable and widely accessible: the Char-Broil TRU-Infrared Commercial 4-Burner Gas Grill and the Master Forge Steel Charcoal Grill.

Until the patent ran out on the infrared burner in 2000, 99 percent of charcoal and gas grills used either conduction – the direct transfer of heat from the grill grate to the food, resulting in grill marks – or convection – the indirect transfer of heat from dry air (or smoke) hot enough to bring food up to a proper temperature. Infrared technology offers grillers another option. It filters the heat through layers of stainless steel, greatly reducing or eliminating the air flow and the drying effect of convection cooking. More simply, infrared technology allows the grill to reach incredibly high temperatures quickly.

Getting an infrared grill to 700°F usually takes only a few minutes. Proponents of infrared cooking say it makes meat juicier and more tender.

The Char-Broil TRU-Infrared Commercial 4-Burner Gas Grill provides 40,000 BTUs of heat from its four stainless-steel burners. Its 580 square inches of primary grilling space are key to low-and-slow cooking, which requires the chamber to be large enough for one side to reach temperatures that will smoke wood and the other side to be cool enough that the meat doesn’t cook too quickly. The grill features a side shelf, a 13,000-BTU side burner – great for heating sauces – that doubles as a second side shelf when not in use, an upper rack that adds another 230 square inches of grilling space and a thermometer over each burner (convenient for indirect cooking), all wrapped up in a sleek stainless-steel design.

The Master Forge Steel Charcoal Grill is a rectangular, box-shaped grill with a smokestack on one side of the lid, sliding porcelain grates and adjustable side vents. The classic design offers some nice bells and whistles. An adjustable charcoal bed for raising and lowering the coals is incredibly useful in achieving the same high temperatures reached by a gas grill. A door on the front of the grill enables you to access the charcoal bed without opening the lid so you can add charcoal and smoke wood without releasing much heat. And the built-in bottle opener is something every grill should have, quite frankly. Its primary grill space is nearly identical to that of the gas grill, with 576 square inches and another 224 square inches of secondary space on an upper rack. The upper rack is a nice feature predominantly found in gas grills, and charcoal grills have recently adopted it. When shopping for a charcoal grill, look for a relatively tight fit on the lid and in the vents to reduce draftiness and temperature loss inside the grill. Adjustable vents are great for controlling the air flow inside the grill, but make sure they close all the way. Also, check that the charcoal bed has plenty of gaps in it to prevent ash buildup, which will stifle the fire.

how the grills cook

How do the grills stack up when cooking identically prepared dishes? A few local food experts weighed in on typical backyard fare: ribs and steaks. Our Battle of the Grills judges were Mike Emerson, owner of Pappy’s Smokehouse; Matt Borchardt, culinary director at L’Ecole Academy for Culinary Development; and food writer Andrew Mark Veety.

The GrillinFools – Greg Thomas, Tom Jones and I – started by smoking two slabs of baby back ribs on each grill. The ribs were prepared in the same brine, given the same rub and cooked at almost the same temperature. (Identical temperatures couldn’t be achieved because charcoal grill temperatures fluctuate.) To smoke ribs on a charcoal grill, coals and soaked wood chips are

placed on one side of the grill and the meat on the other side. To mimic the effect on a gas grill, burners on one side of the grill are turned on with the grates removed. Two to three foil balls, packed with dry wood chips and poked a few times with a knife, are placed directly over the heat source.

The meat is set on the grill grates on the cool side.

After the ribs were served to the judges, we cranked up the heat to cook some steaks. It took the gas grill approximately 30 seconds to increase its heat from 300°F to 700°F. The charcoal grill took more than 10 minutes to come to a higher temperature. The steaks were simply seasoned with salt and pepper, and the grills were set up in the two-zone method (heat on one side, no heat on the other side). The steaks were seared on both sides over the heat before being moved to the other side of each grill and baked to medium-rare. The marbling of the steaks caused quite a few flare-ups on the charcoal grill, making it necessary to rotate the steaks to keep them from burning. The infrared grill, by design, prevents flare-ups.

As an avid griller, I will always have both a charcoal grill and an infrared gas grill in my backyard. In a perfect world, I would use a charcoal grill every time. But in the real world, life is high-maintenance. I need a grill that’s not.

My gas grill is quick and easy and puts out really great food, and because of that, I find myself using it far more often than my charcoal grill.

judges’ notes steak

Appearance ○ Matt Borchardt: The gas grill created better grill marks on the steak. ○ Mike Emerson: Cross marks on the steak cooked over gas were more subtle. Marks from the charcoal grill looked perfect. ○ Andrew Mark Veety: The gas grill made nice grill marks and an attractive-looking steak. The charcoal grill created better grill marks, however, and a steak that looked like a perfectly cooked piece of beef.

Where the gas grill produced a lighter product between the marks, the charcoal grill steak was darker and more visually appealing.

Flavor ○ MB: The charcoal grill provided much better flavor. ○ ME: The charcoal grill showed its true colors here. The biggest

difference in the dishes we tasted was found in the steak. Charcoal definitely provides a better flavor. ○ AMV: Gas grills get hot and put a great sear on a steak, but they don’t contribute to the final product beyond heating. Beef always seems to have a “beefier” flavor when it’s cooked over fire. Gas grill manufacturers may try to replicate a charcoal grill with “flavor plates,” but these manufacturers can’t achieve the result of rendered beef fat and juice hitting the coals and providing an additional burst of flavor.

Tenderness and Juiciness ○ MB: Not much difference. ○ ME: Similar in tenderness and in holding moisture. ○ AMV: You can’t go wrong with prime beef, so this steak had a lot

going for it from the get-go. For both tenderness and juiciness, the end product has everything to do with knowing how to use the tools at hand and resting the steak once you pull it off the heat. Both steaks were tender and juicy.

Overall Impressions ○ MB: The taste difference in the steak cooked on the charcoal grill was

unmistakable, so much better flavor. Going in, I knew this would be the case. When you grill red meat for a short time, you pick up the most and best flavors from a charcoal grill. ○ ME: I would definitely choose the charcoal grill over the gas grill. ○ AMV: For beef, I’d take charcoal over gas every day of the week. It was a no-brainer.

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55

ribs

Appearance ○ MB: Ribs prepared on the gas grill appeared to be dry. Ribs prepared on the charcoal grill appeared much juicier and more natural-looking. Charcoal won by appearance. ○ ME: Ribs prepared on the gas grill had less of the smoke ring that’s usually seen. Ribs prepared on the charcoal grill had more of a traditional smoked appearance, a good smoke ring. ○ AMV: There was nice evidence of bark from the rub. Although the bark was destroyed by wrapping the ribs in foil to keep them warm. Ribs prepared on the charcoal grill had an evident smoke ring from the exposure to wood smoke. This was missing on the ribs prepared on the gas grill.

Flavor ○ MB: Surprisingly, the ribs prepared on the gas grill had great flavor. They didn’t have a smoky flavor, however. Instead, they tasted like high-quality pork ribs. The ribs prepared on the charcoal grill were very smoky, and the smokiness almost masked the pork flavor. I’m surprised, but I liked the flavor of the ribs prepared on the gas grill better. ○ ME: The texture of the ribs prepared on the gas grill was solid. They had good pull. These had an oven-baked flavor, however. The ribs prepared on the charcoal grill had considerable smoke flavor, although it wasn’t overpowering. They had a slightly better texture. I preferred the ribs prepared on charcoal for the traditional flavors. ○ AMV: With the ribs prepared on the gas grill, the flavors of the pork and the additions were forward on the palate and distinctly layered. First, you could

taste the salt of the rub and then the sweetness of the cider brine and pork. The final product was a rib that I would expect from an oven rather than a grill. With the ribs prepared on the charcoal grill, time in wood smoke rounded and softened the flavor of the pork. It was a stark contrast to the flavor of the ribs from the gas grill, which was defined and distinct.

Tenderness and Juiciness ○ MB: I found the ribs prepared on the gas grill to be more tender. The ribs prepared on the charcoal grill were juicier. ○ ME: Tenderness was excellent on both grills. Both sets of ribs held moisture very well, but the ribs prepared on the gas grill were probably slightly juicier. ○ AMV: Both ribs were tender but not overcooked. The bone didn’t pull easily from the meat on either rack. Placing a rib between two fingers and pressing lightly produced clear pork juice that moved from inside the rib meat and ran down the rib. Great stuff. Personally, I felt that both sets of ribs were equally tender and juicy.

Overall Impressions ○ MB: Much to my surprise, I preferred the flavor and texture of the ribs

prepared on the gas grill because you could identify the pork flavor.

I preferred the ribs prepared on the charcoal grill. I would cook on either grill, however, and feel confident in the outcome. ○ AMV: I looked at the gas grill as buying insurance when cooking. It ran evenly and in a predictable manner. So there was less for the cook to worry about. At the same time, it produced a product similar to what I could produce in my own kitchen, which begged the question: Why? If you’re going to be outside, why not use a method that you can't use inside? Playing with fire and using a charcoal grill, however, means the cook is spending more time maintaining temperatures and being a more proactive cook. Some people want to take a more active role, and others want to fire up the grill and go. In the end, the gas grill produced flavorful ribs that highlighted the skill of the cook. The ribs cooked over charcoal had flavors that melded together, and they had visual appeal, with a nicely defined smoke ring. I’d take the charcoal grill. ○ ME:

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Inspired Food Culture

JUNE 2012

57

Written by Scott Thomas

|

Photography by Corey Woodruff

If you’re looking to bring something unique to your grill this summer, think beyond the standard cuts of beef. Artisan cuts – less common because they must be removed by skilled butchers – deliver all the flavor and tenderness of the mainstays for a fraction of the cost.

Three of our favorite artisan beef cuts – teres major, flatiron and tri-tip – are readily available at any full-service meat market and can periodically be found prepackaged in grocery stores. For the price – each about $7.99 or less per pound – a trip to a specialty store is well worth the effort.

Teres major – also known as

Flatiron steak comes from right

Tri-tip roast, when cooked

petite teres, petite tender, shoulder tender and

above the teres major and is composed of

properly, yields a number of fabulous steaks.

petite shoulder tender – is often carved into

two muscles joined by a layer of soft fat. One

Weighing in at an average of 1½ to 2½ lbs,

medallions or used in steak modiga, an Italian

of the two muscles that form the steak is

tri-tip comes from the bottom of the sirloin

dish found at many restaurants on The Hill. Cut

the teres minor, which rivals the teres major

primal cut and is triangular in shape, giving

from a seldom-used muscle in the shoulder, it is

in tenderness. Although the fat doesn’t look

it three points or tips. Before the 1950s,

the second-most-tender cut of beef. (Tenderloin

appetizing on the raw steak, it melts during

the tri-tip was sliced into individual steaks

is the most-tender cut, and some folks argue

cooking, basting the meat throughout the

before cooking or made into ground beef.

the flatiron is more tender than teres major.)

grilling process. The added fat as well as a

Grillers in Santa Maria, Calif., made it a staple

Like tenderloin, teres major is incredibly lean

good amount of marbling gives the flatiron

by rubbing it with a mixture of seasonings

and benefits from added flavoring, such as a

steak more flavor than the teres major. But

and cooking it over red oak, common in

bacon wrap, compound butter or a brush-on grill

its flat shape means a thinner layer of meat

the region. On the East Coast, a steak cut

sauce. This intriguing cut puffs up a bit during

that should not be cooked beyond medium-

from the tri-tip is commonly referred to as

the cooking process, sometimes becoming 50

rare; cooking it to medium results in shoe-

the Newport steak. Being a roast, this cut

percent thicker than when it went on the grill.

leather texture.

lends itself to the reverse-sear method of smoking: First smoke it to imbue the meat with great smoky flavor (particularly oak or

check it out!

Feast extra

Go to feastSTL.com to get recipes for Blazing Chile-Lime Teres Major Steak, Jerked Flatiron Steak and Espresso-Rubbed Tri-Tip.

pecan) and then sear the meat to caramelize the proteins and the rub on the outside. After allowing the meat to rest, cut against the grain into steaks or into thin slices.

Inspired Food Culture

JUNE 2012

59

the cajun|creole connection

Written by Brandon Chuang Photography by Jonathan Gayman Shot on location at the home of

Christy & Matt Augustin

there's no better time to be a food fanatic in st. louis than right now.

The city’s culinary landscape continues to change, be challenged and grow as more and more talent from around the country, and even the world, gravitates Arch-ward and collaborates with our homegrown chefs. Although the geographic diversity of knife wielders is vast, there’s a cadre of local chefs with deep ties to New Orleans.

These transplants are all creating very different food here in St. Louis, but they share a love for the gastronomic and social traditions of Cajun and Creole cuisine. Feast Magazine joined them at a recent backyard gathering, where they shared their favorite recipes and stories from their time in New Orleans.

Simone Faure, executive pastry chef for The Ritz-Carlton, St. Louis, was born and raised in New Orleans’ 7th Ward. (“That’s the way we say it, ‘born and raised.’ It's not enough to say, ‘I'm from New Orleans.’ It's more of a proclamation.”) Faure recalls her grandmother Bernice distinguishing between Cajun and Creole cuisines.

Bernice called Creole food “table food,” implying there’s a fanciness to it. Locals agree: Creole food is city food. Cajun food is country food. Faure stresses the cuisines have two things in common: love and soul. In fact, those words come up a lot when chefs talk about New Orleansinfluenced food.

josh galliano|stuffed artichokes

Stuffed Artichokes recipe on p. 70.

“The food of New Orleans is so much more than Cajun or Creole,” explains Christy Augustin, pastry chef and owner of Pint Size Bakery & Coffee. “It hinges on the ingrained need to feed people, to nourish the soul.”

Augustin's years in New Orleans read like a wish list for culinary-school graduates. She worked at The Ritz-Carlton, New Orleans (with Faure as her mentor); Susan Spicer’s Bayona; Dante’s Kitchen; and Muriel’s Jackson Square. Her time spent in New Orleans is best summarized by the weekly dinner she made with her friends.

“The unifying theme was that of necessity,” she says. “The necessary time spent between friends, the importance of stretching a dollar and utilizing what tastes the best and freshest at all times, and, more important than all, sharing and enjoying.”

Perhaps that explains why Kevin Nashan is still sourcing food in his kitchen at 10pm on a Thursday. The chef and owner of Sidney Street Cafe went straight from The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., and an externship with New Orleans’ culinary anchor Commander’s Palace to a fulltime gig at Commander’s Palace, where he worked a number of positions that included pastry, garde manger, hot apps and sauté on the back line. The James Beard nominee quickly learned that food, above all else, is meant to make people happy, and happiness means little pretense.

“At its base, Cajun and Creole food is humble ingredients, executed very well, with bold flavors. Things like jambalaya didn’t come from some ingenious person trying to make a fancy dish,” explains Nashan. “It came out of necessity. Somebody had rice and seafood; you learned to use what you have.”

Fellow James Beard-nominated chef Josh Galliano agrees. As kids growing up in New Orleans, Galliano and his friends would go down to the Mississippi River when its banks were overflowing and trap all the crawfish they could carry. “Nowadays you’d be lucky to get live crawfish for less than $4 per pound in St. Louis.”

Sam Kogos, owner of Riverbend Restaurant in south Soulard and lifelong New Orleanian, says New Orleans and St. Louis share many characteristics.

“Just look at our [cities’ fleur-de-lis flags] ‒ even they’re similar.”

Kogos’ soft-spoken cousin and chef, Steve Daney, also notes the deep affection both cities have for eating and entertaining. He should know.

Daney was the personal chef for former New Orleans Mayor Marc Morial.

Daney entertained and cooked for a variety of VIPs and political figures during his six-year tenure with the mayor.

Driving nonstop, you can get to New Orleans from St. Louis in approximately 10 hours. Although its proximity may surprise some St. Louisans, it’s the distance that actually helps make the Crescent City’s influence more potent.

“We don't need to be iron-clad in our authenticity,” says Galliano. “The common inheritance of food, music and culture here has traveled up and down the Mississippi; St. Louisans have a love for New Orleans without it having to be done a certain way.

“We have a different playground.”

Inspired Food Culture

JUNE 2012

63

kevin nashan|crawfish maque choux

Crawfish Maque Choux recipe on page 70.

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65

steve daney & sam kogos|barbecue shrimp & crabmeat salad

Barbecue Shrimp

By Steve Daney and Sam Kogos, Riverbend Restaurant

According to Daney and Kogos, “anything with crabmeat” and barbecue shrimp are popular New Orleans fare. Not only are they a hit at the table, they’re also extremely easy and quick to make.

Serves | 2 | 2 lbs 2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 3 Tbsp 3 Tbsp

1 1/3 cup

½ cup 1 loaf

shrimp (12 to 20 count), heads on Creole seasoning, divided olive oil minced garlic chopped fresh rosemary Worcestershire sauce Tabasco large lemon, juiced pale ale, Schlafly recommended kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper unsalted butter, room temperature, cubed crusty French bread

| Preparation | Toss shrimp with 1 Tbsp Creole seasoning so that it coats the shells. Heat oil on high in a large, deep skillet. Add garlic and rosemary. Sauté 1 to 2 minutes, making sure not to burn the garlic. Add shrimp, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco and lemon juice. Cook 2 to 3 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Deglaze the pan with beer. Add remaining Creole seasoning and salt and pepper to taste. Cook shrimp until they turn from pink to orange.

Slowly incorporate pieces of butter until the mixture reaches a saucy consistency. As the sauce thickens, reduce heat. Serve with French bread for dipping.

Crabmeat Salad

By Steve Daney and Sam Kogos, Riverbend Restaurant

Serves | 6 |

1 2 Tbsp 1 Tbsp

½ 1 cup 2 Tbsp 3 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1 lb

egg yolk red wine vinegar Creole mustard lemon, juiced vegetable oil capers, drained chopped green onions chopped parsley jumbo lump crabmeat salt and freshly ground black pepper Creole seasoning lettuce leaves, for garnish tomato slices, for garnish

| Preparation | Blend egg yolk, vinegar, mustard and lemon juice in a food processor for approximately 2 minutes. With the processor running, slowly add oil to create an emulsion. Refrigerate dressing until cold. In a large bowl, stir together capers, onions, parsley and crabmeat, being careful to keep lumps intact. Carefully stir in desired amount of dressing, reserving remaining dressing in a serving bowl. Season to taste with salt, pepper and Creole seasoning.

| To Serve | On a platter, lay down a bed of lettuce. Add sliced tomatoes.

Top with crabmeat salad and serve with reserved dressing on the side.

Inspired Food Culture

JUNE 2012

67

christy augustin|roasted banana pudding

Red Velvet Doberge Cake recipe on p. 70.

simone faure|red velvet doberge cake

Roasted Banana Pudding

By Christy Augustin, Pint Size Bakery & Coffee

For much of the last century, bananas made the Crescent City an import hub of the South. As a result, the fruit is celebrated in a plethora of dishes, including Augustin’s Southern spin on banana pudding.

Serves | 12 | Banana Pastry Cream

10 2 quarts 2 cups ½ tsp ¾ cup

12 1 stick 1 Tbsp ½ cup 1 pkg

bananas, divided whole milk granulated sugar, divided kosher salt corn-starch egg yolks (save whites for the meringue) unsalted butter, cubed vanilla extract banana liqueur gingersnaps

Meringue

6 1¼ cups

egg whites granulated sugar

| Preparation – Banana Pastry Cream | Preheat oven to 350°F. Pierce 3 unpeeled bananas several times with a knife and place them on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Roast 15 to 20 minutes, until the skins turn black and juices are boiling out. Let cool. Peel and purée bananas in a food processor or blender until smooth.

Heat milk, 1½ cups sugar and salt in a heavy-bottomed saucepan until almost boiling. Remove from heat. In a large mixing bowl, whisk remaining sugar with cornstarch, egg yolks and banana purée. Warm the mixture with a small ladle of the hot milk mixture. Once tempered, add the mixture to the remaining milk, sugar and salt in the saucepan and whisk well to combine. Stirring constantly, bring the pan contents to a gentle boil on medium heat.

Continue to heat and stir for a full minute to cook out the starch and fully thicken the cream. Remove from heat and stir in the butter, vanilla extract and banana liqueur. Pour the mixture into a large heatproof bowl and cover the surface with plastic wrap. Make certain the plastic wrap sits directly on top of the cream to avoid “pudding skin.” Let cool for 1 hour at room temperature.

Peel remaining bananas and slice into coins. Place 1 to 2 gingersnaps in the bottom of each of 12 small canning jars and top with 1 to 2 banana slices. Add a layer of pastry cream. Repeat process, layering until each jar is full. Cover the jars in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours.

| Preparation – Meringue | Using an electric mixer, whisk egg whites until foamy. Gradually add sugar and continue to whip until medium-stiff peaks form. Top jarred pastry cream with meringue and toast with a blowtorch. Serve immediately.

Inspired Food Culture

JUNE 2012

69

more cajun | creole recipes Stuffed Artichokes

Photo on p. 62

Crawfish Maque Choux

Photo on p. 64

By Josh Galliano

By Kevin Nashan, Sidney Street Cafe

Like many immigrants in the 1800s, Italians moved to the United States in search of jobs and a better standard of living. Some Sicilians trekked southward to Louisiana ‒ New Orleans in particular. The culinary result is a Creole-Italian hybrid. Galliano’s stuffed artichokes are representative of the this style.

Maque Choux is a classic stewlike dish found in Louisiana.

It is commonly made from corn and tomatoes, but Nashan’s take forgoes the vegetables for sweet and meaty Louisiana crawfish. “This is something that I’m happy cooking,” says Nashan. “It’s instinctive.”

Serves | 8 |

4

1

1 cup

1

2 6 cloves 2 Tbsp ¼ lb 6 cups 1 cup ¼ cup

Serves | 6 | Roux

large globe artichokes lemon, halved salt extra-virgin olive oil small onion, diced green onions, finely sliced garlic, minced anchovy paste* unsalted butter fresh bread crumbs, from a soft bread freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Romano Italian parsley, chopped freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation – Artichokes | Cut the stem off each artichoke so that it can stand up in a pot. With a serrated knife, trim the top inch off the artichoke. Use a pair of scissors to trim the points off the leaves. Remove any loose leaves near the base. Rub the artichokes with the lemon halves.

1 lb 4 cups

bacon fat* all-purpose flour

Crawfish Stock

2 oz

5 lbs

3

3

3 1½ cups 5 cups

bacon fat whole crawfish (preferably from Louisiana) onions, finely diced celery stalks, finely diced bay leaves, fresh white wine chicken stock (low-sodium or homemade)

Maque Choux

2 oz

12

4

3 8 cloves 1 cup

5 lbs

bacon fat onions, finely diced celery stalks, finely diced sweet peppers, finely diced garlic, minced brandy Crystal hot sauce or preferred brand Worcestershire sauce filé powder** crawfish tails, cooked (preferably from Louisiana) chowchow relish, to taste

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season the water with salt and place the artichokes in the pot. Boil until you can easily pierce the base of an artichoke with a knife, about 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the artichokes from

| Preparation – Roux | Heat bacon fat in pot. Carefully whisk the flour into the fat. Continue to cook until the roux is dark red. Reserve and refrigerate until ready to use.

the pot and drain upside down in a colander. Allow to cool.

| Preparation – Stuffing | Heat olive oil in a sauté pan

| Preparation – Crawfish Stock | Place bacon fat in a large pot over medium heat. Add whole crawfish. After

over medium heat. Cook the onion and green onions until

90 seconds, remove 5 to 10 crawfish and set aside to be

tender. Add the garlic. Cook for approximately 2 minutes.

used for garnish. Cook remaining crawfish until bright

Stir in anchovy paste and cook for another minute. Set the

red. Remove from the pot and set aside. In the same pot,

vegetables aside in a mixing bowl.

sweat onions, celery and bay leaves. Add cooked crawfish, minus the crawfish reserved for garnish, back to the pot.

Using the same pan, melt the butter over medium heat.

Deglaze with white wine. Add chicken stock and bring to a

Wait until the foam subsides and add the bread crumbs.

boil. Reduce heat and simmer for at least 1 hour. Working

Toss to let the bread crumbs absorb the butter and heat

in batches, pulse the stock in a blender to release extra

through. Transfer the bread crumbs to the bowl with

flavor. Pour through a chinois or other fine strainer. Set

the onion mixture. Add cheese and Italian parsley to the

stock aside and discard solids.

mixture and stir. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

| To Assemble | Entering from the exposed top, spoon out

medium-sized pot over medium heat. Sweat the onions, celery, sweet peppers and garlic. Deglaze the pot with

Holding each artichoke over the mixing bowl, fill the empty

brandy. Reduce until liquid is almost evaporated. Add

centers with stuffing. On the outside, starting with the

crawfish stock and bring to a boil. Add the cold roux and

bottom leaves, gently pull back each leaf and push stuffing

bring to a boil. Cook for approximately 10 minutes as the

into the pocket. Press the leaves back once the artichoke

mixture thickens. Reduce heat to low and add desired

is stuffed. Repeat for each artichoke.

amounts of hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce and filé powder. Add the cooked crawfish tails and reserved whole

Place the stuffed artichokes in a pot with an inch of water.

crawfish. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes to reheat whole crawfish.

(The artichokes should fit snuggly.) Cover the pot with a lid

Adjust seasonings if necessary. Remove whole crawfish.

and bring water to a simmer. Simmer the artichokes for 20

Fold in chowchow relish to taste. Arrange whole crawfish

minutes. Transfer the artichokes to a platter. Can be either

attractively on top of the dish and serve.

served immediately or chilled. * Because it can be difficult to come up with 1 lb of bacon fat, vegetable oil can substituted. ** Filé powder, or ground sassafras leaves, can be purchased from a number of local spice shops and markets throughout the city. Nashan recommends Penzeys Spices in Maplewood or Jay International Food Co. in on South Grand Boulevard.

70

feastSTL.com

JUNE 2012

By Simone Faure, The Ritz-Carlton, St. Louis

Doberge cakes ‒ layered cakes traditionally made from chocolate or lemon ‒ are a New Orleans specialty .

According to Faure, any “real” New Orleanian will tell you the only place to get a Doberge cake is Gambino’s Bakery.

Faure’s version is an homage, using red velvet cake, another New Orleans favorite.

Serves | 12 | Red Velvet Doberge Cake

2 beets

2 sticks

2 cups

¼ cup

1 Tbsp

8 oz 21/3 cups

4 1½ tsp 1½ tsp 1½ tsp

2 Tbsp

unsalted butter, softened, plus more for greasing unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting fresh lemon juice vinegar cream cheese, softened sugar eggs pure vanilla extract baking powder kosher salt natural cocoa powder

Cream Cheese Frosting

8 oz cream cheese

8 oz 2 sticks

4 cups 2 to 3 Tbsp

1 tsp

1 tsp

Creole cream cheese, room temperature* unsalted butter, room temperature powdered sugar heavy cream pure vanilla extract pure almond extract

| Preparation – Red Velvet Doberge Cake | Preheat oven to 350°F. Place raw beets in a small baking dish. Add ½ cup water. Cover dish with parchment paper and foil. Roast 60 to 90 minutes, or until tender. Allow to cool. Butter three 8-inch cake pans. Cut out 3 parchment paper circles and place 1 circle in the bottom of each pan. Butter each parchment circle and dust with flour. Set aside. Peel beets and cut into large chunks. Place in a food processor or blender with lemon juice. Pulse until smooth. Stir in vinegar.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together butter and cream cheese. Add sugar and mix until smooth. Add eggs, one at a time, until fully incorporated. Mix in vanilla extract. In a separate bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, salt and cocoa powder.

Slowly add flour mixture to the wet ingredients. Fold 1½ cups of beet purée into the cake batter.

| Preparation – Maque Choux | Place bacon fat in a

and discard the choke from the center of each artichoke.

* 1 lb of cooked, diced shrimp can be substituted.

Red Velvet Doberge Cake with Creole Cream Cheese Frosting Photo on p. 68

Divide the batter evenly among the cake pans. Tap pans on the counter to remove air bubbles. Bake 20 to 35 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center of each cake comes out clean. Invert cakes onto cooling racks. Allow to cool completely. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate or freeze until ready to assemble and frost.

| Preparation – Cream Cheese Frosting | Combine all ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Whip until light and smooth.

| To Serve | Cut each cake in half lengthwise, creating a total of 6 layers. Place even amounts of cream cheese frosting between each layer and then frost the outside of the cake. Create a wavelike pattern with a spatula or the back of a large spoon. * Creole cream cheese is a type of farmer’s cheese made from skim milk, buttermilk and rennet. Although there’s no comparable substitution, the cheese or recipes to make it can be found easily online.

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St. Louis Welcomes Vinos de la Cruz Wines

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Vinos de la Cruz Winery, a family company of about 60 hectares of vineyards, is the oldest winery in Uruguay to bring an exclusive and unique ecological wine without sugar contents making it available for sugar restricted diets and wine lovers in general. Vinos de la Cruz is among the few wineries in the world to produce a 100% hand crafted wine from grapes to bottle.

Whitmoor

Country Club Isn't it about time you were enjoying a resort setting practically in your own back yard?

Our low calories wine are produced without altering the therapeutic benefits of the wines and the qualities such as color, aroma, alcohol level, and flavorings.

Our wines are available at RueLafayette , The Wine merchant, and at www.sugarlesswines.com.

Remember to enter promo code “Feast” while buying online to enjoy an additional 25% off.

Vinos De la Cruz currently offers three sugarless wines: A Colbert Sparkling wine/Cabernet Sauvignon/and a Malbec.

And three Full Bodied Wines: Lacrado Tannat Varietal/Cot Lacrado Malbec Reserve/and a Lacrado Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve.

For more information on our wines you can go to www.sugarlesswines.com.

JOIN NOW AND WE’LL INCLUDE: • A new set of Calloway RAZR Irons • Plus Custom Fitting • A personalized Calloway Golf Bag Play on Mondays?....No Problem, as a member at Whitmoor you can play The Missouri Bluffs, Golf Club of Wentzville or The Links at Dardenne for NO CHARGE!

(Adding Mondays increases playable days by over a MONTH.., not to mention the fact that 90 holes available allows you access during ANY club event, ANY day. If you have trouble getting on the course where you play now, then this is the place for you.)

Whitmoor Country Club 1100 Whitmoor Drive St. Charles, MO 63304

Or

membership@whtimoorgolf.com Ask for Ashley or Andy

636.926.9622 ext. 130

Inspired Food Culture

JUNE 2012

71

We make linen Interesting!

Nothing quite as savory as our sixteen-ounce

Prime New York Strip enhanced by a delicious brandy peppercorn sauce, fresh salad, creamy garlic mashed potatoes and Rose Bud Salad.

Whether you run a casual, cozy diner or an elegant, 5-star restaurant, you want to give your guests a clean, appealing environment that reflects the quality and care you put into your outstanding service and carefully crafted menu.

• Local and Independent Since 1948.

• Largest selection of restaurant linens anywhere!

Conveniently located in Kirkwood Dinner Hours: Tues.-Sun. 5 p.m.

NOW OPEN SUNDAY 133 West Clinton Place St. Louis, MO 63122 314-965-9005 www.citizenkanes.com

www.tiptonlinen.com

800.533.5670

St. Louis Welcomes Vinos de la Cruz Wines

The “World’s Only” Sugarless/Organic/Full Bodied Wine Company 25% Discount on all online purchases - use promo code: “FEAST”

Vinos de la Cruz Winery, a family company of about 60 hectares of vineyards, is the oldest winery in Uruguay to bring an exclusive and unique ecological wine without sugar contents making it available for sugar restricted diets and wine lovers in general. Vinos de la Cruz is among the few wineries in the world to produce a 100% hand crafted wine from grapes to bottle.

Our low calories wine are produced without altering the therapeutic benefits of the wines and the qualities such as color, aroma, alcohol level, and flavorings.

Our wines are available at RueLafayette , The Wine merchant, and at www.sugarlesswines.com.

Remember to enter promo code “Feast” while buying online to enjoy an additional 25% off.

Vinos De la Cruz currently offers three sugarless wines: A Colbert Sparkling wine/Cabernet Sauvignon/and a Malbec.

And three Full Bodied Wines: Lacrado Tannat Varietal/Cot Lacrado Malbec Reserve/and a Lacrado Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve.

For more information on our wines you can go to www.sugarlesswines.com.

Inspired Food Culture

JUNE 2012

71

We make linen Interesting!

Nothing quite as savory as our sixteen-ounce

Prime New York Strip enhanced by a delicious brandy peppercorn sauce, fresh salad, creamy garlic mashed potatoes and Rose Bud Salad.

Whether you run a casual, cozy diner or an elegant, 5-star restaurant, you want to give your guests a clean, appealing environment that reflects the quality and care you put into your outstanding service and carefully crafted menu. â&#x20AC;˘ Local and Independent Since 1948. â&#x20AC;˘ Largest selection of restaurant linens anywhere!

Conveniently located in Kirkwood Dinner Hours: Tues.-Sun. 5 p.m.

NOW OPEN SUNDAY 133 West Clinton Place St. Louis, MO 63122 314-965-9005 www.citizenkanes.com

www.tiptonlinen.com

800.533.5670

Inspired Food Culture

JUNE 2012

71

FREE e-Edition

Medical Employment Directory is St. Louis' #1 healthcare recruiting and staffing company!

For our Clients:

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72

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CLASSIFIEDS

I BUY RUNNING USED CARS Buying with Integrity for Over 30 Years Cash Paid On The Spot Call Sam 314-302-2008

CLEANING SERVICES CLEAN AS A WHISTLE Affordable Cleaning for Any Budget Weekly, Bi-weekly, Monthly, Move-in & Move Out $10 OFF New Customers Insured & Bonded Member of BBB Satisfaction Guaranteed Family Owned & Operated Call 314-426-3838 TWO LADIES & A BUCKET Two Are Better Than One! Deep & Thorough Cleaning Service Please Contact Susie Duncan at: 314-229-1736 www.twoandabucket.com

DECORATIVE PAINTING

St. Louis Murals

Residential or Commercial

Murals, Faux Finishes Rick at 314-395-5254

stlouismurals.com

FLOORING/TILE WOOD FLOOR REFINISHING 25-yr. Old Fully Insured Company.

Sanding, Refinishing, Repairs, New Installation. Free Estimates.

Angie's List "A" rating & BBB PROFESSIONAL FLOORS OF ST. LOUIS 314-843-4348 www.profloorstl.com

HANDYMAN SERVICES KEN'S HANDYMAN SERVICE Carpentry, Electrical, Plumbing, Painting, Gutter Cleaning and Hauling. Over 25 Yrs. Exp. Ref's. Insured.

Call Ken 314-567-6900

HEALTHCARE SERVICES VISITING ANGELS 24/7 Companion Care for Seniors.

Personal Care, Meal Prep, Light Housekeeping & Peace of Mind.

314-569-9890

Housekeeping • Errands • Recuperative Care •

On Call 24/7 Insured/Bonded and Carefully Screened

LAKE MICHIGAN Waterfront Homes for Sale Go To www.Andreacrossman.com or Call 616-355-6387 Andrea Crossman

PRECISION REMODELING Since 1990 - Interior & Exterior We Are Here For All Your Home Improvement Needs & Repairs.

Free Estimates! Fully Insured.

Call Bob (314) 799-4633 or Jim (314) 799-4630

LAWN & GARDEN GARDEN SHERPA Let Us Install Your Organic Vegetable Garden.

Horticulturist/Permaculturist.

Call (314) 962-7853 For More Information.

Masonry/Concrete MICHAELS CONCRETE New & Replacement Driveways, Sidewalks, Patios, Etc. Including All Decorative Work Family Owned & Operated, Insured BBB A+, 314-738-9646

PAINTING

O’BRIEN PAINTING & DECORATING, INC. INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR Painting • Power Washing Wallpapering • Plastering

35 Years Experience Fully Insured • References

J. KEVIN O’BRIEN, PRESIDENT

314-481-3500 JC PAINTS Interior/Exterior Painting Reliable, Clean & Reasonable.

Insured.

Call John for a free estimate 314-703-2794

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Written Guarantee No Job Too Small Credit Cards Accepted Insured DAN MILBOURN

CONSTRUCTION INC.

314-772-0190 314-771-7622 FAX

www.homehelpersstl.com

ROTTEN WOOD REPAIRS SEMI RETIRED TRIM CARPENTER Quality, Design and Work in Bookcases, Doors, Crown Moldings, Wainscoting, Kitchens and More.

Dale 314-541-6708 ï Insured ï Free Estimates ï

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REAL ESTATE FOR SALE

314.961.1002 636.391.0000

HOME IMPROVEMENT

Serving St. Louis for over 40 years Mortar Color Matching Brick Cleaning Bricklaying Stone Work Power Washing Caulking Waterproofing & Sealing

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RN Supervised • Bathing/Personal Care • Meal Preparation •

VACATION RENTALS

ALL TYPES TUCKPOINTING

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AUTOMOBILE & MOTORCYCLE STORAGE The Finest in Climate Controlled Storage Close to Clayton and Ladue 314-993-1330 or Kevin@stlouiscarmuseum.com

Home Helpers is your #1 source with affordable, dependable care for all ages by compassionate caregivers.

THE WELL BEHAVED PET....

For all your home training needs.

New Puppy, Puppy Mill, Rescue Dogs or Behavioral Problems.

OH, DON'T FORGET THE CAT!!!!

Call me, I can help.

Laura @ 636-456-9993

TUCKPOINTING

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ST. LOUIS CAR MUSEUM & SALES Now offering Upholstery Services for Your Classic, Antique, Custom and Special Interest Autos Contact Kevin @ 314.993.1330 Or Kevin@stlouiscarmuseum.com

PET SERVICES

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HEALTHCARE SERVICES

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AUTOMOTIVE

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Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

SERVICES

We Fix Leaky Chimneys We do more than Sweep Chimneys • Tuckpointing • Brick Work • Chimney Covers • Replace Rusted Chimney tops • Gas logs • Glass Doors • Airduct Cleaning • Dryer Vent

Visit our website For Discounts

englishsweep.com 636.391.2226

All Tuck Pointing Basement Work Chimney Repair Painting Carpentry Repair Caulking Step Repair Foundation Roofing New/Repair Waterproofing All Work Guaranteed DON 314-865-0558 A+ Rating with B.B.B.

REGENTS PARK LONDON Modern 2 Bedroom Apartment.

Convenient for Museums, Shopping, Theater. Wireless Internet Access.

Highly Recommended!

Call 314-569-2009

WANTED COLLECTOR WISHES TO PURCHASE Gun Collections â Old and New Antiques of Any Type Fishing Tackle Call Steve Lapin 314-571-9427 GUNS WANTED Licensed Federal Firearms Dealer Top Price Paid ï Any Condition YOU COME TO US OR WE'LL COME TO YOU 636-233-4544 Ask For MARK I BUY POSTCARDS! Stereoviews, Old Photographs, Documents, Letterheads, Movie Photos, Advertising, World's Fair, Railroad, Military, Political, Nautical & More.

Mike 314-524-9400

WANTED

QUALITY CHINESE ANTIQUES: furniture, snuff bottles, bronze, ivory, and jade.

314-503-4847

$ CASH 4 OLD STUFF $ ————Light Hauling———— We Cleanup, Haul Away and/or purchase: Garage, Estate and Moving Sales!

Also, Warehouse, Business & Storage Locker Leftovers!

FAY FURNITURE 618-271-8200 AM ALLEN'S HAULING SERVICE 15, 20 and 30 Yard Trash Containers.

Hauling Service.

No Job Too Big Or Small.

Any Type of Trash Removal.

314-621-0481 or 581-7274

TICKETS CARDINAL TICKETS Share Our Great Seats!

Seeking partners for our 3rd base suite, Diamond Box and Infield Box seats. Call Jen at 614-218-3884 www.SuitePartners.com Our Suite is available for your special event!

TREES TREES TRIMMED & REMOVED

GILLS

TREE SERVICE •Stone Retaining Walls •Stump Grinding •Bucket Truck Service

(636) 274-1378 Insured Inspired Food Culture

JUNE 2012

73

MEET & GREET

Marcia Schechter

Owner, Grandma’s Nuts written by Pat Eby

Marcia Schechter didn’t plan to go nuts in 2009, in the middle of an economic downturn. When her oldest grandson, Andrew, took an entrepreneurship class, he suggested she market her special mix of nuts, seeds and dried fruits as “Grandma’s Nuts.” Schechter embraced the challenge.

As a lifelong student of health and wellness, Schechter knew the proteins, vitamins, omega-3 fatty acids, trace minerals, antioxidants and fiber in her mix made a nutrient-dense snack. The flavor of Grandma’s Nuts equaled their good nutrition.

“My son Mark became a vegetarian in the 1970s. I knew he had to have protein, so I made a mix of nuts,” Schechter says. She created a snack of almonds, cashews, walnuts, soy nuts, raisins, dried cranberries, pumpkin seeds and sunflower seeds. A few months later, Schechter added minichunks of 70 percent dark chocolate to create a second mix with a pop of chocolaty goodness.

Grandma’s Nuts originally sold at Straub’s and expanded its distribution through farmers’ markets. This season you’ll find Schechter and her grandchildren selling them at the Soulard and Washington University Medical Center farmers’ markets. Retail locations include City Greens Produce, Great Harvest Bread Co. in Olivette, Kakao Chocolate, Local Harvest Grocery, Sappington Farmers’ Market, Straub’s Markets, Schnucks and Viviano’s Festa Italiano Market.

more than a mix

grandmas-nuts.com

Salame di Cioccolato (Chocolate Dessert Salami)

By Jenny Bazzetta, Kakao Chocolate

Serves | 6 to 8 |

8 oz

3

good-quality dark chocolate egg yolks

2/3 cup

granulated sugar

7 Tbsp

unsalted butter, softened

2 Tbsp

unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted

2 Tbsp

dark rum or port

½ tsp

vanilla extract

½ lb

biscotti or tea biscuits, coarsely chopped*

8-oz bag

Grandma’s Nuts original mix

powdered sugar, for dusting

| Preparation | Finely chop the dark chocolate and melt in a double boiler or in the microwave at half power until smooth.

Using a mixer, beat the egg yolks with the sugar on high speed until foamy. Add the butter and mix again until well-blended.

Set the mixer to low and, one at a time, slowly add the melted chocolate, cocoa powder, rum and vanilla until the mixture is creamy and smooth. Stir in the coarsely chopped biscotti and Grandma’s Nuts mix until well-combined. Refrigerate 30 minutes or until firm. Sift powdered sugar onto the work surface and create a log the size of your preference. Sift more powdered sugar to coat the entire surface of the “salami” and wrap it tightly in plastic wrap, securing each end with a knot. Wrap in butcher’s paper and secure with butcher’s knots as you would Photography by J. Pollack Photography

real salami. Refrigerate overnight.

| To Serve | Slice the chocolate salami on a cutting board and serve with your choice of seasonal fresh fruits and crusty bread.

Any leftovers will keep, tightly wrapped in plastic wrap, in the refrigerator for 1 week. * Coffaro’s all-natural Almond with Cherries biscotti is recommended.

74

feastSTL.com

JUNE 2012

PER MONTH*

LEASE FOR

16,477

*39 month lease, 12000 miles per year, $2,250 cap reduction. Only your state tax & license additional. Total cost of lease $7,983 with approved credit.

$

GUARANTEED SALE PRICE

Model #13012, Vin. #247757, 1 or More At This Price

BommaritoNISSAN The NISSAN Store

SALES - SERVICE - PARTS - COLLISION REPAIR

AT THE BIG CORNER I-270 & N. LINDBERGH 661 Dunn Rd.

1

1-800-334-8903 # 314-731-2228 • ILLINOIS BUYERS WE WILL PROCESS SALES TAX, TITLE AND LICENSE PLATES

Miissouri’s

NISSAN N Dealer!

14 Consecutive Years††

Convenient Saturday Service

*39 month lease, 12000 miles per year, $2,250 cap reduction. Only your state tax & license additional. Total cost of lease $7,983 with approved credit. Sale prices include all rebates and incentives, with approved credit. Prior sales excluded. Special financing in lieu of rebates. With approved credit. ††Source, bureau of Missouri Automotive registration. Nissan North American, '98, '99, '00, '01, '02, '03, '04, '05, '06, '07, '08, '09, '10, '11 Calendar Year to Date results for Missouri. All sales end June 30, 2012. See dealer for details.

www.bommarito.com