know your kai from your neua
authentic thai desserts
regional round-up
THAI MENU 101
SURPRISING SWEETS
top thai picks
Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis
feastSTL.com | MARCH 2013 | FREE
the thai ISSUE
Impress Your Guests! Let Schnucks spiral sliced ham be the star of your Easter feast! It’s made for us with natural juices and trimmed just right for a flavorful yet lean, tender ham. Then, it is slow-smoked the old-fashioned way with real hickory wood. Plus, the ham is sliced to the bone so you get more meat for your money! Schnucks butchers are proud to offer you a spiral sliced ham you won’t find anywhere else!
©2013 Schnucks
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Inspired Food Culture
March 2013
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56
beyond the
Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis
70 MARCH 2013
from the staff
| 10 |
from the PUBLISHER
Tongue Thai-ed.
| 12 | feaststl.com What’s online this month.
| 14 | FEAST FAVES
Our staff and contributors share inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis.
homemade
thai desserts
COLUMNS
| 24 | One on One
Beth Thompson bakes classic pastries in Ferguson.
| 26 |
the mix
The reliable Fox River.
| 28 | ON THE SHELF
New and notable in beer, spirits and wine.
| 30 |
mystery shopper
Buy it and try it: Mekong Flower Rice.
| 32 |
how to
Behind the bar at Failoni’s.
| 34 | TECH SCHOOL
Dehydrating sans machine.
| 36 |
gadget a-go-go
We put five spice grinders to the test.
44
touring thailand
| 38 | Menu Options
Celebrate spring with lamb tenderloin, fennel salad and pea purée.
| 74 |
the last bite
Writer Jeremy Nulik believes we all deserve dessert at Sen Thai Bistro .
COVER PHOTOGRAPHY of Snowbird Dumplings (P. 54) BY Jennifer Silverberg Table of contents photography (p. 46) BY
Jennifer Silverberg
6
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MARCH 2013
60 in the kitchen at
king & i
Inspired Food Culture
March 2013
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Magazine Volume 4
SALE ENDS Mar. 31!
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Grand Opening New Location
7901 Clayton Rd. Join us for Our Grand Opening Fantastic Spring Collection of Vests, Capes, Jackets, Boleros and Accessories! Special Spring Restyling Event April 11-13
call today and book a private appointment with Designer Wendi Ricci re-invent your old fur coat into something you'll want and be excited to wear!
7901 Clayton Road (314) 997-3877 www.furcentre.com 8
feastSTL.com
March 2013
| Issue 3 | March 2013
Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville Managing Editor, Print Content Brandi Wills Managing Editor, Digital Content Kristin Brashares Art Director Lisa Allen Vice President of Advertising Donna Bischoff Copy Editors/Proofreaders Andrea Mongler, Stephanie Witmer Contributing Writers Tory Bahn, Brandon Chuang, Pat Eby, Chad Michael George Erik Jacobs, Jennifer Johnson, Jessica Leitch, Jeremy Nulik Angela Ortmann, Matt Seiter, Michael Sweeney Andrew Mark Veety, Cassy Vires Contributing Photographers Jonathan Gayman, Jonathan Pollack, Jennifer Silverberg Contributing Videographer Hannah Radcliff
Contact Us Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor St. Louis, MO 63101 feastSTL.com Advertising Inquiries Kelly Klein, 314.340.8562 kklein@stltoday.com Comments publisher@feastSTL.com
Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2013 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC
You can't beat our meat! For over 86 years, the Wenneman family business has been a tradition for many people in the St. Louis Metropolitan area. With total commitment to customer satisfaction as their primary objective, we place great emphasis on product quality and customer service. Wenneman Meat Company is a full service, federally inspected, old fashioned butcher shop and meat market. We produce a complete line of our own meat, deli and poultry products. Our formulations and recipes have been passed down for generations, and remain unchanged, while continuing to grow our product lines.
Retail and Wholesale
7415 State Rt 15 • St. Libor y, IL • 618.768.4328 • wenneman.com
New Womens Shoe Store in Brentwood Le Shoe is the newest Seliga company exclusively for Women. Experience The Finest European Footwear for the Active Woman, Business Woman or Sophisticated Woman in you! Le Shoe carries all the Hottest Brands so that you will look great and feel even better. Your friends will rave when you arrive in fashion with Mephisto and your feet will never feel tired again. Check out the coolest comfort collections at Le Shoe: Dansko, Naot, Merrell, Taos, Domedaris & Fly London. Mon - Sat 10a - 6p & Sun 12p - 5p
2538 S. Brentwood Blvd. • Brentwood • 314.963.1300 • le-shoe.com
Comedy Mystery Dinner Theatre “Nursery Crimes” Fairytale land isn’t all that it’s cracked up to be – just ask Humpty Dumpty. He didn’t fall off that wall, he was pushed! Now that we are all grown up, help us find out what turned this Nursery Rhyme into a Nursery Crime. This interactive comedy mystery will be presented with a 4-course meal to DIE for! Call for Reservations 314.533.9830
Bring in this ad for $10.00 off per person. Valid thru March 2013 Not valid for groups.
4426 Randall Place • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • bissellmansion.com
Spring into a New Bath or Kitchen • Kitchens • Baths • Showers • Outdoor Living Spaces • Bars 45 sq. ft. only $2,475 • Up to 45 sq. ft. of Granite for your Kitchen • Includes the Exclusive 25+ Year Sealer • 16 Guage Stainless Steel Sink • 1 Edge Upgrade PLUS - 31" Vanity Top & Porcelain Sink, select colors HURRY! Offer Ends when Supplies are gone!
River City Granite
314.371.0300 • rivercitygranite.com Inspired Food Culture
March 2013
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PHOTOGRAPHy by
Jonathan Gayman
publisher’s letter
FEAST EVENTS James Beard Foundation Dinner, Recreated Thu., March 7, 6:30pm; Annie Gunn’s $150, 636.532.7684
Annie Gunn’s chef Lou Rook III and wine director Glenn Bardgett are recreating the menu they served at the James Beard House in October 2012 for this special dinner.
Feast Book Club Meet-Up Wed., Mar. 20, 6pm; Basso RSVP to editor@feastSTL.com
Join us to discuss The Science of Good Cooking by America’s Test Kitchen while enjoying complimentary hors d’oeuvres and drink specials. Purchase the book from Left Bank Books and receive 20 percent off.
Magnificent Missouri Dinner Series: Mid-Century Melting Pot Sun., March 24; Deer Creek Club $125, magnificentmissouri.org/events/dinner-series
Chefs from Cleveland-Heath will prepare the third dinner in the five-part series at the Deer Creek Club, a historic private club that is currently installing a native landscape.
Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Wed., March 27, 6pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $40, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704
Join Cat Neville in the kitchen to make a spring feast of lamb Fantastic Thai food can be found across the St. Louis region, from O’Fallon to Florissant to Olivette to Downtown. Check feastSTL.com
tenderloin, fresh pea purée and fennel salad.
throughout the month for editors’ picks of St. Louis’ top Thai dishes, like the ones pictured here at Sen Thai.
20th Annual Dining Out For Life
I’ll never forget the first time I dined at King and I, the 30-year-old temple to Thai cuisine on South Grand Boulevard. I had just landed my first job and was out to lunch with a new colleague. I skimmed the menu, trying to decide which exotic, wonderfully unfamiliar dish to pick. I ordered Duck and Rice, a dish where rich roasted duck is sliced and served atop jasmine rice with spinach and ginger, accompanied by slices of fresh, firey jalapeño and a sticky-sweet black sauce. One taste and that was it. I was hooked on Thai food. Thai cuisine is characterized by balance. Salty and sweet, spicy and sour. These four elements find harmony in Thai cooking, and this month, we bring you an issue dedicated to exploring deliciously complex Thai food. Themed issues always end up being my favorites. I love it when we dig deep into a particular cuisine, pulling apart its history, unique ingredients and cooking methods. Being able to learn the back story of one of my favorite cuisines made me love it (and crave it) all the more. I hope this issue piques your interest in exploring all of the unique flavors and textures of Thai cuisine. Oh, and King and I’s Duck and Rice? It’s still on the menu. Give it a try!
Thu., April 25 diningoutforlife.com/stlouis
Grab breakfast, lunch or dinner at one of the participating restaurants. At least 25 percent of your check will be donated to support the work of Saint Louis Effort for AIDS.
Baltic Odyssey Cruise Sept. 3 to 13 314.968.9600, altairtravel.com
Join publisher Cat Neville, in partnership with Altair Travel, for our second annual Oceania culinary cruise. This year’s trip takes you to Scandinavia, the world’s newest center of culinary innovation. You’ll travel from Copenhagen to Stockholm with a three-day stop in St. Petersburg.
Until next time,
feedback?
catherine@feaststl.com
Catherine Neville
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MARCH 2013
Discover Historic Main Street
WINE SHOP, WINE GARDEN & TASTING BAR Live Jazz on most Thurs. Evenings
Columbia
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119 S. Main St. • 618-281-8117
Evalina’s Antique Café
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115 W. Gundlach St. • 618-281-4327
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Closed Monday • Tues.-Thurs. 2-9pm • Fri.-Sat. Noon-10pm • Sun. Noon-5pm
Grill open Sunday-Wednesday 11-8 pm Thursday-Saturday 11-9 pm Pub open til 1 am.
Shopping, Wine, & Dining Guide
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Located in the Old Distillary 113 W. Gundlach • Columbia, IL • 618.281.7915 • thepatinapony.com
Authentic Italian Brick Oven!
• Large Outdoor Patio • 11 Flat Screen TVs • 12 Beers on Tap, Imported and Specialty Micro Brews • Extensive Wine List • Kitchen Open Late
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618-710-0200 700 North State St. Freeburg, IL 62243
103 West Gundlach St. • 618- 281-7466
Gruchala’s Restaurant
210 S. Main St. • 618-281-9901
Imo’s Pizza
1450 Evergreen • 618-281-5552
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Joe Boccardi’s Ristorante 117 S. Main St. • 618-281-6700
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Magnolia
208 N. Main St. • 618-281-8083
Memory Lane Gifts & Floral 515-B N. Main St. • 618-281-4538
Our Coffee House Café
New Orleans Boy Meets Local Girl
CRAWFISH BOILS
Fresh From New Orleans! & Live Music (Begins at 3pm)
March 9 - Zydeco Crawdaddys April 15 - Bob Case Blues Band May 18 - Funky Butt Brass Band Check Website for Full Party Schedule
Southern Cuisine and Best Gooey Butter Cake in St. Louis! Hours: Tuesday - Saturday 11-9pm
123 South Main St • Columbia, IL 62236 Phone: 618-281-2229 Chris: 314-280-5224 • Micki: 618-980-2132 Email:whodatstakeout@yahoo.com • www.whodatsrestaurant.com
125 N. Rapp St. • 618-281-4554
Reifschneider’s Grill & Grape 608 N. Main St. • 618-281-2020
The Patina Pony
113 W. Gundloch • 618-281-7915
Tiny’s Pub & Grill
602 N. Main St. • 618-281-9977
Vida Verde Studio Salon & Boutique 127 N. Main St. • 618-281-6767
Who Dat’s Southern Food 123 S. Main St. • 618-281-2229
Come enjoy Lunch, Dinner or Drinks at our Columbia Location! Lunch & Dinner Menu
EVALINA'S ANTIQUE CAFE
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618-281-6700
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12" TWOTOPPING PIZZA
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$ 95
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Inspired Food Culture
March 2013
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ONLINE CONTENT
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Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis
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Promotions
ENTER TO WIN: Ready for spring? This month’s Schnucks Cooks
Cooking School Class ushers in the season with a meal centered around Pan-Seared Lamb Tenderloin with Fennel Salad and Pea Purée (see p. 38), and we’re giving away tickets to join us in the kitchen. Check the Promotions section at feastSTL.com for details.
DINEout
out to lunch: If this month’s issue leaves you hungry for more great Thai food, be sure to check feastSTL.com every Monday in March. Out To Lunch columnist Andrew Mark Veety will spotlight his favorite midday dishes at local Thai restaurants, like the Bangkok spicy noodles with seafood from Sen Thai Bistro pictured here. PHOTOGRAPHy by J. Pollack Photography
GET COOKING: Debuting this month, our new What We’re Cooking section (under the Dine In tab at feastSTL.com) will deliver seasonal recipes from some of St. Louis’ favorite food bloggers, plus tips from local chefs. PHOTOGRAPHy by Jennifer Silverberg
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Behind-The-Scenes Video: Get an inside look at St. Louis pastry chef Simone Faure’s new La Patisserie Chouquette bakery in Botanical Heights. Faure talks about the shop’s designer approach to luxurious French-style desserts (like the edible handbags and shoes pictured above) and taking root in a “forgotten” neighborhood. Watch the video now by scanning the tag at right, or visit the Multimedia section at feastSTL.com.
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Inspired Food Culture
THE BEST REST for less!
March 2013
A13
FEAST FAVES
| where we’re dining
374 S. Grand Blvd., Midtown, 314.531.4433 cinichow.com
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MARCH 2013
PHOTOGRAPHy by
Let’s get this straight first: It’s pronounced cheenee, derived from this fast-casual restaurant’s namesake appetizer, arancini. Arancini are deepfried balls of risotto, and Cini has three flavors on the appetizer list: Original, with sausage, peas, pecorino and Parmigiano-Reggiano; Primavera, with fresh squash, broccoli, pesto, Romano and more Parmigiano-Reggiano; and Four-Cheese, a decadent treat made with Parm-Reg, Romano, gorgonzola and mascarpone. The bulk of Cini’s menu focuses on build-your-own pastas, salads and Piadina, a very thin bread that serves as the base of Cini’s wraps. Pick your mix among the fresh ingredients. Grill items range from calamari with hot peppers to Italian sausage. Sauces run from a lovely pomodoro to a rich basil pesto. And save room for dessert. Arancini make another appearance here. This time the risotto is sweet and flavored with hazelnuts and chocolate, an unfamiliar and delicious way to cap off your meal. Look for a second location to debut in Ladue later this spring. – C.N.
Jonathan Gayman
cini
FEAST FAVES
| where we’re drinking
franciscan estate cab @ fox and hounds
Vietnamese & Chinese Restaurant
A 2012 "FEAST" Favorite! Thank You all Local Area Chefs for Making Us #1
Located in the Meridian Shopping Center at Hanley & Eager Roads behind the Best Buy.
FREE PARKING IN THE METRO LINK GARAGE written by
Tu-Th: 11am-9pm • Fr-Su 11am-10pm 8396 Musick Memorial Dr. • 314.645.2835 www.MaiLeeRestaurant.com
Jennifer Johnson
Although grabbing a pint from the nice English beer selection is instinctual at the cavernous, British pub-like Fox and Hounds Tavern, the Bristol Sliders beg for something more. Enter a Napa Valley favorite, Franciscan Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2010. It beckons from the fairly limited wine list of this beer-and whiskey-focused establishment, hoping for a chance to mingle with the sliders’ juicy lamb. The mini-burgers are served on toasted, buttered brioche buns and topped with Stilton cheese, soft Wisconsin Cheddar and Salume Beddu’s Berkshire pork bacon. The Franciscan Estate Cab, which hails from the warm and prestigious Napa subregion of Oakville, makes for a melt-in-your-mouth pairing. The wine’s full-bodied weight and high acidity are accented by ripe blackberries, dried rosemary and thyme, and licorice. Its masculine yet elegant tannins − aided by small-barrel oak aging − cut through and balance the delectable layers of fat, protein and salt in the burgers. The pedigree of this well-known Cabernet is oh-so secondary here; the food is good and so is the drink.
Nothing quite as savory as our sixteen-ounce
Prime New York Strip
Spices Spices Spices Fresh, Quality Spices at Prices You'll Love.
• Local soup, dip mixes & honey • Grilling rubs, marinades and spices • Hot sauces and peppers, including Ghost
The Cheshire Hotel, 6300 Clayton Road, Richmond Heights 314.647.7300, cheshirestl.com
334 South Main, Historic St. Charles 7 Days A Week
636-916-3600
www.oldtownspices.com
enhanced by a delicious brandy peppercorn sauce, fresh salad, creamy garlic mashed potatoes and Rose Bud Salad.
Fresh Seafood Nightly Conveniently located in Kirkwood Dinner Hours: Tues.-Sun. 5 p.m.
133 West Clinton Place St. Louis, MO 63122 314-965-9005
www.citizenkanes.com
Give Kakao Chocolate
to someone important to you — and treat yourself, too — any time of the year
ES A DC CO O NFECTIONS N FE EC ECTIO E NS ARTISAN CHOCOLATES C ATE CO ATES AN AND CONFECTIONS C HAND | FROM FRO RO RO OM ALL�NATURAL AL ING AL AT TURA REDIENTS MADE IN ST� LOUIS | BY HAND ALL�N A NA INGREDIENTS S
{
2301 S. Jefferson, St. Louis | 314.771.2310 7272 Manchester, Maplewood | 314.645.4446 www.kakaochocolate.com
}
YOUR BEST SOURCE
PHOTOGRAPHy by
J. Pollack Photography
TO WHAT’S HAPPENING AROUND TOWN
St. Louis-based wine enthusiast Jennifer Johnson is a sommelier, wine educator, journalist, and hospitality and marketing consultant who loves to celebrate life, family, food and wine.
DOWNLOAD OUR FREE NEWS APP TODAY! Text STLTODAY to 21321 or search “POST-DISPATCH” from your app store.
Inspired Food Culture
March 2013
15
FEAST FAVES
| where we’re dining
windowsills café and marketplace We love the simple appeal of a home cooked, traditional meal, but typically don’t have the time (or make the time) to brine, pickle, smoke and bake. The folks at Windowsills Café and Marketplace do. Meats that are brined and smoked in-house are piled high on fresh-baked breads and served with your choice of housemade sides. Sweet potato casserole is topped with a sweet and crunchy crumble for a textural treat. And the mac ‘n’ cheese. Oh, the mac ‘n’ cheese. It’s made to order, so no overcooked noodles or soupy sauce. Just fresh, al dente macaroni in a hot, creamy cheese sauce sprinkled with toasty bread crumbs. The pastry case is stocked daily with freshly baked cream pies – chocolate, coconut, banana and Key lime – luscious fruit tarts, and warm-from-the-oven cookies, brownies, dessert bars and more. The market offers locally made goods, such as Augusta wines, Stringbean coffee, Kakao chocolates and honey harvested in Labadie, Mo. You’ll leave Windowsills with that good feeling you get from enjoying food created close to home with care. – B.W.
PHOTOGRAPHy by
J. Pollack Photography
1326 Clarkson/Clayton Center, Ellisville 636.527.6400, windowsillscafe.com
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MARCH 2013
FEAST FAVES
| food stuff
thai flavors Bring the flavors of hot, salty, sweet and sour to your Thai cooking with these tasty jarred pastes, dips and condiments. – B.W.
HOT: Spicy Chile Paste
SALTY & SWEET: Fruit Dip
SOUR: Minced Galangal
| 1 | Mae Pranom Thai chile paste, $2.69; Global Foods Market, 421 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, globalfoodsmarket.com | 2 | Nam Pla Wan dipping sauce, $2.95; Jay International Foods, 3127 S. Grand Blvd., South Grand, 314.772.2552 | 3 | Thai Taste galangal, $3.19; Whole Foods Market, multiple locations, wholefoodsmarket.com PHOTOGRAPHy by Jonathan Gayman Inspired Food Culture
March 2013
17
FEAST FAVES
| the big idea
sucre shop written by Brandon Chuang
Photography by
J. Pollack Photography
Brooke Pratt may not realize it, but she’s not real. She can’t be. Her meteoric rise from stay-at-home mom and blogger to successful boutique craftswoman that has been spotlighted by the likes of Food & Wine magazine, HGTV and the Today show is the stuff of Disney movies. She even has a fairy godmother: Martha Stewart, whose magazine was the first to cover Pratt and her hand-printed wooden utensils. Sucre Shop began at summer camp. Pratt’s two children last summer attended a day camp that asked parents to pack their kids an easily disposable lunch. “I figured if they were going to throw it away, I may as well make it as ecofriendly as possible,” says Pratt. She found some wooden utensils and added a little personal touch for her kids by printing their names across the handles. Before she knew it, parents of the other campers were calling. Now, less than a year later, Sucre Shop has blossomed into a sixperson operation that designs and hand-prints bold geometric patterns, typographic designs and more onto whatever wooden utensils and wares Pratt can get her hands on. sucreshop.blogspot.com
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feastSTL.com
March 2013
SeSSion bar & reStaurant Supply Serving St. Louis for over 30 Years!
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314-487-2670 • 6044 Lemay Ferry Rd. • Fax: 314-487-8660 15 min. south of the Arch on I-55 • mile south of Butler Hill
GREAT
MARCH at Chandler Hill Vineyards
Enjoy St. Pat’s, Easter & the First Taste of Spring! The active wildlife throughout our property suggests spring is just around the corner. Of course, there’s no better place to usher it in than Chandler Hill – just minutes away! From our massive deck, in the vineyards or by our scenic lake it’s all around you. Outside or in the tasting room enjoy our updated menu, new wines, seasonal beers, great music, and delicious Easter brunch. See why Chandler Hill has been voted “Best Winery” in Sauce Magazine, Ladue News and St. Louis Magazine.
St. Patrick’s Day Offering Sunday, March 17th - All Day Savor the luck of the Irish along with some Chandler-go-braugh as the first wee bit o’ green begins to peek into the fields around the vineyards. All day, along with our wonderful regular menu offerings Chef Corey is preparing his succulent Corned Beef & Cabbage. Add to that the music of the Kevin Bilchick Trio and it promisess to be the ideal St. Patty’s Day!
Easter Brunch at Chandler Hill Sunday, March 31st - 10:00AM to 1:00PM Easter brunch at Chandler Hill has become a tradition for so many individuals and families – and, for good reason! Our tantalizing brunch is irresistible and this year promises to be better than ever with entrées including: Ham and cheddar omelet with roasted breakfast potatoes; French Toast Bread Pudding with fresh fruit; Smoked Salmon and asparagus quiche with a petit salad and much more! Reservations are necessary so be sure to call and save your table! Special pricing for children. WWW .C HANDLER H ILL V INEYARDS . COM
Fri, March 1 - Bryan and Lola 6-9 p.m. Sat, March 2 - Encore 1-4 p.m. Sun, March 3 - One Take Band 1-4 p.m. Fri, March 8 - Kevin Babb 6-9 p.m. Sat, March 9 - The Dudes 1-4 p.m. Sun, March 10 - Downstereo 1-4 p.m. Fri, March 15 - Dan Hoerle 6-9 p.m. Sat, March 16 - The Scandaleros 1-4 p.m. Nick Calandro 6-9 p.m. Sun, March 17 - St. Patty’s Day! Kevin Bilchick Trio 1-4 p.m. Sat, March 23 - Scott and Karl 1-4 p.m. Sun, March 24 - Acoustic Anonymous 1-4 p.m. Sat, March 30 - Cosmic Cowboys 1-4 p.m. Joe Fry “The Guitar Guy” 6-9 p.m. Sun, March 31 - Easter Brunch! Rodgers and Nienhaus 1-4 p.m.
Be Sure To Check Our Website For More Details And Special Menus 596 Defiance Road Defiance, MO 63341 636.798.2675 Visit Us Online for Early Closings & More Special Events!
Inspired Food Culture
March 2013
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FEAST FAVES
| shop-o-matic
olive farmer’s market If the unfamiliar ingredients in Thai recipes have kept you from experimenting with this cuisine, you just ran out of excuses. Don’t let the name mislead you. Olive Farmer’s Market doesn’t carry local goods; it’s a wonderland of Asian food brands, exotic produce, fresh seafood and specialty housewares. Need to find dried shrimp, tamarind paste, a cake of palm sugar and fresh banana blossoms to make our recipe for pad thai on p. 68, as well as the pan to stir-fry it in? Or jack fruit, grass jelly, palm seed, sticky rice and a steamer basket to make the tasty homemade Thai desserts on p. 72? This is your one-stop shop. The warehouse-style set up of the store leads you through aisle after aisle of fascinating goods to explore. Shelves overflow with curry pastes, canned soups, soy and fish sauces of all varieties and pickled everything. Produce bins sport punkesque dragon fruit, a rainbow of chiles, round and speckled Asian pears and much more. Fresh fish and shelfish are displayed in tanks and on beds of ice and the butcher is on site to help you with whatever cut you need. Want just a few fish heads, sans bodies, for Fish Head Sour Curry, a southern Thai specialty? You got it. Located on Olive Boulevard just east of I-170, Olive Farmer’s Market is surrounded by competing grocers with similar inventory. So what sets it apart? For us, it’s the level of approachability. The store is big enough to carry all the things you never knew you needed in order to cook great Asian food at home, and at the same time it’s not so big you feel overwhelmed. It’s not intimidating. Plus, it stocks plenty of groceries you’re used to buying, such as tea, fresh fish and everyday produce like green beans, carrots, lemons, limes and other things you needed to pick up while you were out anyway.
– B.W.
8041 Olive Blvd., University City 314.997.5168, stlouissupermarket.com
three great finds from the ofm shelves
Thai cuisine to thicken soups and enhance the flavor of dishes containing bamboo. This is one of those items you won’t see listed in a lot of Thai recipes and hence it doesn’t get much play on grocer’s shelves. But if you’re making keng noh mai som, a sour soup from north Thailand, you know where to find this key ingredient. | 2 | Half the fun of serving Asian cuisine in your home is presenting it in beautiful authentic dishware. Rice and noodle bowls, tea sets, dipping plates and more are priced nicely and perfect for setting the scene. | 3 | Tom yum is a popular hot-andsour Thai soup. What makes it great is the balance of flavors and the fragrant, herbal broth. This instant Tom Yum paste is a great cheat to keep in the pantry for when you want to whip up a quick batch after a long day.
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|1|
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PHOTOGRAPHy by Jonathan Gayman
| 1 | Yanang leaf extract is used in northern
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Inspired Food Culture
March 2013
21
FEAST FAVES
| whAT we’re buying
asian-inspired tabletop |3|
written by Jessica Leitch
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The delicious dishes in this month’s issue have us craving a dash of Asian flavor in our dining decor as well. The bold colors, simple lines and varying textures of these products lend themselves to crafting an inspired and intriguing tabletop display.
|2|
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| 1 | Jiaya Chopsticks, set of 10, $3.99; Seafood City, 8020 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.993.2800 | 2 | Treat Snack Bowls, $14.99; Plowsharing Crafts, 6127 Delmar Blvd., University City, plowsharing.org | 3 | Tea serving tray, $40; Suttonwood Antiques, 1301 Gravois Road, Soulard, suttonwoodinteriorsandantiques.com | 4 | Buddah Bowl, $27; Phoenix Rising Inc., 6331 Delmar Blvd., University City, shopphoenixrising. com | 5 | Serrv Mug, $8; Plowsharing Crafts | 6 | Earthenware serving dish, $11.99; Seafood City Photography by
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Jonathan Gayman
Fratelli's Eggplant Parmigiano - Large Eggplant - 3 Egg Beaten, pinch of salt & pepper - 4 cups Italian breadcrumbs
- Olive oil - Tomato sauce - Provel, Mozzarella, Romano cheese - Fresh basil
Peel & slice eggplant to ½ inch slices. Dredge/dunk slices 1st in egg, then in Italian breadcrumbs. Fry in skillet with olive oil, 3 min. each side, set aside to drain. Layer cooked eggplant with tomato sauce and ALL cheeses in a casserole dish. Bake in 350* oven till cheese is melted, about 5 min. Drizzle with olive oil, top with fresh basil. Serve Hot...Buon Appetito!
2061 Zumbehl (Bogey Hills Plaza) • St. Charles • 636-949-9005 • Visit us on
• fratellisristorante.com
Bacchus & Bocce & Wine Tasting Date 3/30/2013 • Place: 2210 Marconi Ave. 63110 (on The Hill)
Time : 6-9 PM • Cost: $10 Advance purchase only by 3/25 Sign up at Randalls Wine and Spirits: 14201 Manchester Rd or by phone 636-527-1002 Wine Tasting of 35-40 wines • Book signing by Chef Lou Rook from Annie Gunns • Bocce •Special prices on tasted wines. Notable wines: Sella & Mosca Cannonau (As-seen on Dr. Oz) Planeta Chardonnay Turnbull Napa Cabernet Sauvingon Joseph Phelps Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Ehler's 120/80 Cabernet Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cab Sav Dom Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir
1910 S. Jefferson. St. Louis • 11000 Old Halls Ferry. St. Louis County • 14201 Manchester Rd. Manchester • shoprandalls.com
Que Pasa! Mexican Restaurant Come by and relax in our beautiful local restaurant and enjoy a warm basket of fresh chips and salsa while you browse our large selection of authentic, Mexican cuisine. Que Pasa! offers a party room that seats 40-60 people. Choose Que Pasa! for your next special party or luncheon. Check in on Facebook to receive special offers
Bring in this ad for $5 off any $25 food purchase or $10 off any $50 food purchase. Open Mon.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri. & Sat. 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. and Sun. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Happy Hour Mon.-Thurs. 4 p.m.-8 p.m.
1165 Gravois Rd. • Suite 100• Fenton • 636.600.1062 • quepasamexicanrestaurant.com
Chill. Frozen yogurt made fresh. And we wouldn't do it any other way. Our handcrafted artisan flavors, made in small batches of up to 10 gallons, are delivered to our stores fresh daily from a St. Louis dairy.
Come try our newest flavor creations: Peach-Ginger Sorbet, Oatmeal Cookie & Piña Colada
Redeem this certificate for $1 off your next cup of chill
7610 Wydown • Clayton • 11935 Manchester • Des Peres • 9793 Clayton • Ladue • 314.932.5010 (Wydown) • chillfrozenyogurts.com Inspired Food Culture
March 2013
23
Owner, Cose Dolci Bakery
Beth Thompson
written by Catherine Neville Photography by Jonathan Gayman
After six years in a storefront on Florissant Road in Ferguson, Cose Dolci owner Beth Thompson migrated a few blocks south to a larger, more visible location. A neighborhood bakery in the truest sense, Cose Dolci’s customers are fiercely loyal to the shop’s classic pastries, and they’re hungry for more. “The new space is so much larger,” says Thompson. “This allows staff to share ideas for new recipes, be more creative and experiment. We plan to expand our offerings in the near future.” Give me a snapshot of your background. I have been baking since I was a young girl. When I was in college I was lucky enough to study in Vienna, Austria, where there seemed to be a bakery on every corner. I think I sampled the pastries at each one calling it “research.” They were small, neighborhood bakeries and I dreamed of opening a bakery that would mimic that. Cose Dolci provides items that comfort: scones, muffins, lemon bars, etc. But we also have a selection that may be less familiar such as Linzer cookies, rugelach and biscotti. How has Ferguson has evolved over the years? Ferguson has made great strides in getting new businesses open in the downtown area. The addition of the brewhouse, the wine bar and most recently an Italian market all make it more of a destination. And the strong sense of community has not changed, which is such a great thing about Ferguson. What are your biggest sellers? Scones, cookies and cupcakes, but our cinnamon rolls are quickly working their way into that category. Do you ever experiment with new things or do you stick with the classics? We tend to stick with classics because of customer demand, but I love to experiment with recipes and flavor combinations. I try to sample new recipes with customers to get feedback before adding an item to our menu. How did you learn to bake? I have been baking since childhood. My mother was an excellent baker as was her mother. I think I was about 7 or 8 when I told my mother that I wanted the kitchen to myself. She said OK, but I know she was secretly supervising me! Favorite food memory? My father made the best homemade ravioli every Christmas. The pasta, the ricotta cheese filling, the sauce, all from scratch. My job was to seal the edges of each ravioli with a fork, which I did happily! If you hadn’t become a baker, what would you be? I always wanted to be a painter or photographer,
425 S. Florissant Road, Ferguson 314.799.2157 cose-dolci.com
something in the visual arts. Although, my mother always wanted me to be a concert pianist. Obviously that did not happen!
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Visit feastSTL.com to read the full interview with Beth Thompson.
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This summer, find your happy in St. Louis County Parks! • • • •
Scout Campout at Lone Elk Farm Fridays at Suson Olden Days of Summer at Faust Day Camps and Outdoor Camps at Queeny, Kennedy & North Co. Complexes • Swim Lessons at St. Vincent and Kennedy Complex • Specialty Camps at Laumeier, Affton and Faust Carousel • Fish Camp at Simpson and Suson Details in our Spring & Summer Activity Guide – March 3rd in the Post-Dispatch, at the above park sites and on the Web.
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FENTON ST. PETERS (636) 326-9015 (636) 279-1543 625 Gravois Rd. Across from Fenton Plaza, 293 Mid Rivers Mall Dr. next to Gold’s Gym Take 70 to Mid Rivers Mall Dr.; ST. LOUIS go south 2 blocks. (314) 832-5300 On right next to Bed, 4650 Landsdowne Bath & Beyond, behind So. Kingshwy. & Christy Blvd. McDonald’s. near Burlington Coat Factory
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March 2013
25
Blaze of Glory
Story and recipe by Matt Seiter Photography by Jonathan Gayman
The origins of the Blue Blazer go back some 160 years at least. The drink itself is nothing more than a Scotch Skin (a scotch toddy garnished with a lemon peel). Yet it’s the fire show produced in the making of the drink that has earned it a place in the history books. As the accredited creator of the drink, Jerry Thomas, states, “A beholder gazing for the first time upon an experienced artist, compounding this beverage, would naturally come to the conclusion that it was a nectar for Pluto rather than Bacchus.” Upon first reading about this drink, I was immediately drawn to its process, which includes igniting overproof alcohol and tossing it between two pitchers. I practiced first with cold water and finally had the nerve to do it during service. After a few failed attempts, I got it right. Blue flames danced from pitcher to pitcher. The guests’ eyes were glued to the drink, while the bar owner had the insurance company on standby. After the show was complete and the guest had her drink in hand, applause and relief fell upon the room. And then a few more were ordered. I know of only a handful of bars that will even attempt to make the Blue Blazer, but if you find yourself at one of these establishments, make sure you’re sitting at the bar when you order it so you can see the show. And order it only if you like scotch. The drink is delightfully smoky, warm and pleasant, with a hint of citrus and sweetness. If smoke is not your thing, neither is this drink. And the show will be all for naught.
Blue Blazer Serves | 1 | 12 2 ½ 1
oz boiling water oz Glenmorangie Astar (or any other overproof scotch) oz simple syrup lemon peel
| Preparation | Pour 6 oz of boiling water
Pitcher-Perfect I highly recommend if you are going to make this drink at home to practice with cold water. Toss the cold water from pitcher to pitcher. Once you get the knack of it without spilling a drop, then play around with the fire part. And don’t ever try to do this over carpet or any other cloth rug. Hard surfaces only. The pitchers should be tempered glass. If it’s not tempered, there’s a good chance the glass will shatter with the heat. You can also use silver or pewter mugs when making this drink. They are a wise investment but costly. I prefer glass pitchers because they allow guests to see the flame throughout the entire process. Whatever material you choose for your pitchers, make sure they have handles. After you’ve mixed the drink, allow your pitchers to cool a bit before cleaning them. They’re hot. Matt Seiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program and a continuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft of mixology. He is a member of Drink Lab and is the creator of the Sanctuaria Cocktail Club.
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in each of two tempered-glass pitchers. Toss the water from pitcher to pitcher a few times to heat them. Then place the scotch in a small glass and set it in a larger bowl. Fill the bowl with hot water about ¾ of the way up the sides of the glass. Heating the scotch excites the alcohol esters, making it easier to set on fire. Set that glass aside. Next, empty both pitchers of water and pour the scotch in one pitcher. Measure out 1½ oz of water and place that in the other pitcher. Ignite the pitcher with scotch and pour it into the pitcher with water. Toss the lit mixture back and forth between pitchers about 5 to 7 times, enough to make people ooh and ah. Then pour the lit mixture into your serving glass. Douse the flame by gently placing the bottom of one pitcher over the serving glass and serve.
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Inspired Food Culture
March 2013
27
top March PICKS
beer
written by Michael Sweeney
Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.
O’Fallon Brewery’s Rager Red
Journeyman Distillery Ravenswood Rye Whiskey
AVAILABLE AT: Local Harvest Grocery, multiple locations, localharvestgrocery.com; $8.99 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles) Pairings: Bangers and mash • Cuban sandwich
Wanting to differentiate itself from all of the stouts that get released this time of year, O’Fallon Brewery decided to brew up an Irishstyle red. O’Fallon’s take on this beer is an ale that displays a prominent caramel malt body with just enough spiciness from the hops to help round out the overall flavor. A great option for St. Patrick’s Day.
Brouwerij Het Anker’s Cuvée van de Keizer Blauw STYLE: Belgian Dark Strong (11% abv) AVAILABLE AT: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple
locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $10.99 (750ml bottle) Pairings: Drink as an aperitif Cuvée van de Keizer Blauw is dark, rich and extremely complex. Each sip will send your taste buds into overdrive as you try to decipher every flavor. You can bend over backward trying to get a similar beer from the Westvleteren Brewery and pay twice the price, or you can easily enjoy one of the finest Belgian dark strongs ever produced.
Available at: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple
locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $43.99 Try it: Neat, please. Journeyman is a new distillery in Michigan that focuses on small-batch, 100-percent-organic spirits. Ravenswood is the Chicago neighborhood where owner Bill Welter apprenticed at Koval Distillery. Organic rye from Minnesota and organic wheat from Michigan make up Ravenswood’s mash bill. It’s matured in 15-gallon new white-oak barrels. The nose is spicy and butterscotch-sweet. The taste is spicy and sweet, peppery and soft, and offers incredibly smooth drinking at 90 proof.
Journeyman Distillery Bilberry Black Hearts Gin Provenance: Three Oaks, Mich. (45% abv) Available at: Randall’s Wine and Spirits, multiple
locations, shoprandalls.com; $32.99 Try it: In your favorite gin cocktail. It shines in cocktails. The bilberry, cousin to the huckleberry and blueberry, is the rare highlight in this silky-smooth, wheat-based gin. Citrus, berry, juniper and licorice dominate the nose. On the palate, there is a hint of cocoa flavor up front, with lots of fig, lemon peel, anise and baking spice on the finish. This gin is a standout among quality distillation and a true small-batch product, as each production run yields only 10 gallons of finished-product distillate.
Journeyman Distillery Silver Cross Whiskey
STYLE: American Imperial Stout (8.8% abv)
Provenance: Three Oaks, Mich. (45% abv)
locations, shoprandalls.com; $8.99 (four-pack, 12-oz bottles) Pairings: Chocolate mousse • Chicago-style deep-dish pizza I’m a self-described hop head, so when Green Flash first arrived in St. Louis, I couldn’t wait to enjoy its hoppier beers. But I was absolutely struck by how much I enjoyed this beast of a stout. At 8.8 percent abv, it will surely keep you warm. But it’s the silky, roasty full body of the beer that keeps you coming back.
MARCH 2013
Provenance: Three Oaks, Mich. (45% abv)
Green Flash Brewing Co.’s Double Stout AVAILABLE AT: Randall’s Wine and Spirits, multiple
feastSTL.com
written by Chad Michael George
The creator of STLHops.com and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the craft beer manager at Lohr Distributing.
STYLE: Irish-Style Red Ale (5.5% abv)
28
spirits
Available at: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple
locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $43.99 Try it: Neat or in your favorite Manhattan recipe. The weight of the whiskey works wonders. The label reads “Four Grains Fore Golf” because this whiskey is distilled from a mash of equal parts rye, corn, wheat and barley and because Bill Welter is an avid golfer. This whiskey is aged in very small 5-gallon barrels, yielding an accelerated aging process and a mouthful of flavor after just six months. The oily and heavy mouth feel gives way to heavy fruit and spice. This is definitely a whiskey in its own category: delicious, complex and smooth.
wine
written by Angela Ortmann
STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann shares her passion for all things epicurean through her event and consultation business, which is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.
Ontañon Reserva 2004 Provenance: Rioja, Spain Available at: Grapevine Wines, 309 S. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, grapevinewines.com; $19.99 Pairings: Lamb kabobs• Bison• Sugo and Bolognese sauces
Produced only in the most exceptional growing years, Rioja Reserva wines must be aged for at least three years, allowing the juice to mature and develop. This terroir-driven expression of Tempranillo, with a 5 percent dash of Garnacha, releases rich black fruit flavors laced with lavender and incense-like aromas.
Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2008 Provenance: Western Australia Available at: Schnucks on the Plaza, 10275 Clayton Road, Frontenac, schnucks.com; $74.99 Pairings: Pasta with cream sauces• Crab cakes • Herbed poultry dishes
As one of the founding producers of the region, Leeuwin has been perfecting its craft for over 30 years through the use of both contemporary and time-honored wine-making methods to create multifaceted, balanced wines that can endure. Bright pear and quince are met with subtle cinnamon and touches of floral in this lively Chardonnay that finds a perfect middle ground between mouthwatering acidity and round creaminess.
Ben Marco Expresivo 2009 Provenance: Argentina Available at: The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, thewinemerchantltd.com; $32.99 Pairings: Grilled steak• Fajitas• Pork tenderloin
Taking Argentine red wine to the next level, Susana Balbo creates her own South American Meritage-like blend of primarily Malbec mixed with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Tannat and Petit Verdot. Complexly layered with dark fruits, spice and chocolate notes, this well-structured wine is ready to drink now with a little decanting time or to hold for 10 years or more.
Inspired Food Culture
March 2013
29
Mekong Flower Rice
story and recipe by Erik Jacobs Photography by Jennifer Silverberg
Most consumers of rice in this country cook with only a few tried-and-true varieties. Many of you were probably raised eating white converted rice. However, to the rest of the world, especially Asia, the variety and flavors of rice are quite amazing. Enter Mekong Flower Rice , one of the most TM
aromatic and nutritious rice grains available. What Is It?
Mekong Flower Rice, also known by its Khmer (Cambodian) name, phka malis, literally translates into “garland of flowers.” This is particularly appropriate because Mekong Flower Rice is the Cambodian version of jasmine rice. It is similar to an old-vines bottling of wine, in that the more stress the rice stalk undergoes while growing, the more intense the final product will be. Water stress enhances the aromatic qualities of this rice, and farmers drain their paddies periodically to achieve a high degree of flavor. That flavor is even more intense if you are able to find Mekong Flower Rice with the germ and bran still attached. How Do I Use It?
So what do you do with this amazing rice? Steam it like you would any other jasmine rice and serve it as an accompaniment to Thai, Vietnamese or Cambodian food. Many recipes call for a ratio of 2 cups water to 1 cup dry rice, but this often results in a watery product. Measure closer to 1½ cups water to each cup of rice and you will get a fluffier, more textured grain. Try this rice in a pilaf for some explosive aroma and flavor, adding ginger, sesame seed or lemongrass for an Asian kick. If you cook an authentic Thai beef salad, this rice also will produce a delicious rice powder when toasted and then finely ground.
Mekong Flower Rice Pudding Crème Brûlée For many of us, rice pudding has always been a lovely comfort food. Sugary-smooth custard with toothsome rice and dried fruits handily satisfy a sweet tooth. This recipe elevates this classic dish with the addition of a caramelized sugar top, à la crème brûlée, and a mix of exotic Asian fruits. With only a bit more work, this dessert is transformed from a simple, homey pudding to an upscale end to a lively dinner party.
Stop by 30
feastSTL.com
Serves | 6 to 8 | 6 cups coconut milk 1 cup Mekong Flower Rice 1 tsp candied ginger, minced super-fine 1/8 tsp salt 1 cup + 3 Tbsp sugar, divided diced dragon fruit, Asian pears or fresh lychees for garnish, approximately 4 oz per serving
| Preparation | Bring the coconut milk, rice, ginger and salt to a boil in a large, heavybottomed pan over medium-high heat. Do not use a cover to cook the rice as you would normally. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring frequently and scraping the bottom of the pot to keep the rice from sticking, for about 20 minutes, or until the rice is tender. Add 1 cup sugar. Continue to simmer while
stirring until slightly thickened, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from heat while the pudding is slightly soupier than your final product should be, as it will thicken as it cools. Transfer pudding to an oven-safe dish. Let cool 20 minutes. Sprinkle with remaining sugar and place under the broiler until sugar has caramelized and formed a hard shell. Alternately, you can use a brûlée torch to flame it directly. Sprinkle diced fruit on top of pudding and serve immediately.
to pick up more delicious recipes featuring Mekong Flower Rice. Visit straubs.com for information on its four locations. MARCH 2013
check it out!
Feast extra
Jumbo Florida Stone Crabs now available! Stone Crab season is officially under way. For a limited time only, Gerard's is carrying fresh Florida Stone Crabs along with the best Steaks, Chops, and Seafood available as well as imported pasta from Italy. Call for availability. With over 600 Wines from around the world, Gerard's was one of 443 restaurants worldwide to receive the Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator for the 13th year. Private room available for parties up to 35. Please support locally owned restaurants.
1153 Colonnade Center • DesPeres • 314.821.7977 • stlgerards.com
Mauro Galati is bringing The Hill to Foristell Born & trained in Rome, Italy, chef/owner Mauro Galati prepares authentic, high quality Italian cuisine. Galati's offers a unique and intimate atmosphere for it's guests. The small brick building gives way to huge flavor and tastes not often seen in the Midwest aside from the Hill where Galati worked for over 20 years. Pictured to the left is the Pasta Pescatore with mushrooms, shrimp, scallops and clams. Come and enjoy!
100 S. Main St. • Foristell • 636.463.1020
Italian Trio Dinner all for only $10* Appetizer (choose one) • Toasted Ravioli (4 pcs.) • Caprese Ravioli (4 pcs.) • Toasted Spinach & Artichoke Ravioli (4 pcs.)
Pasta (choose one) • • • •
Spaghetti with Meatball • Ravioli Baked Mostaccioli • Penne Ronzia Pasta con Broccoli • Cavatelli Fettuccine
Rich & Charlie's Famous Salad! more info at www.richandcharlies.com Banquet Room available at Crestwood - Call 314.822.4909 for more info! Catering available from party pans to full service catering! *Sunday thru Thursday • Dine in only • Not available with other offers • Limited time only
9942 Watson Rd. • Crestwood • 314.822.4909 • 4487 Lemay Ferr y Rd. • St. Louis • 314.894.1600
FREE Slice of Cheesecake! Sit down & relax at My Daddy's Cheesecake: • Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner • Catering and delivery available • FREE parking in back garage • FREE Wi-Fi Delicious Cheesecake - and so much more!
Bring in this coupon to receive a FREE Slice of Cheesecake with the purchase of a lunch or dinner entrée/combo and a drink. Offer expires 4/5/13.
6451 Clayton Road • Clayton • 314.725.9555 • mydaddyscheesecake.com Inspired Food Culture
March 2013
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Behind the Bar at Failoni’s
written by Brandon Chuang Photography by Jonathan Gayman
Lee would shout out to Vic that he needed a frosted glass. Cocktails were started by Alex, finished by Vic and delivered by me. By the end of my time behind the bar, even I began to instinctively know where to reach in the cooler for a specific beer − but then again, I never sang Sinatra while doing it. I have never seen a bartender equipped with a wireless mic. Then again, I’ve also never seen a bartender sing some Frank into said mic, open two beers with his free hand, serve them, collect the money and make change, all at the same time. Apparently, that’s normal here. The reason people don’t leave Failoni’s − the reason they make a reservation for the night − is because of the music. On this night, and every Friday night, it’s a guy named Tom Kelly and his computer. Basically, Kelly puts on instrumental tracks and he, and various members of the Failoni family, sings over them. Sinatra. Dean Martin. Sinatra. Earth, Wind & Fire. Sinatra. People were going crazy, dancing and singing along while Lee, Vic, Alex and I were behind the bar.
I know how to bartend. Seriously, I do. I started when I was about 13 years old, slinging drinks in my family’s Chinese restaurant in a town that won’t be named in case the statute of limitations hasn’t run out. I may not be good at much, but I’ll be damned if I can’t tend bar − which is exactly what I told Vic Failoni when I showed up at his family’s place ready to bartend on a busy Friday night. “That’s great,” says Vic while guiding me to the emptiest corner of the bar. “But if it’s OK with you, I’ll just have you stand right here.” Great. I’d never heard of Failoni’s before I did this story. Neither had any of my friends who had come to bear witness to what I was sure would be my Tom Cruise-like ascent into cocktail greatness. Hell, even Google Maps didn’t know exactly where Failoni’s was, telling me I had arrived at my destination approximately half a mile from the actual building on Manchester Avenue at the edge of Dogtown. But the restaurant and bar has been around since 1933. According to my assigned bartender/guardian, Lee, the place was purchased in 1916 from the Lemp Brewery by Alex Failoni and his wife, Rose. “Same location, same family,” he stressed. They say that all stereotypes have a grain of truth to them. If that’s so, Failoni’s is the most Italian place I’ve ever been, and that includes Italy. After meeting Vic, I quickly get introduced to his brother and co-owner, Alex Jr. Their nephew, Joey, who makes the pizzas, was pointed out soon after, along with his mother, Rosetta, who was waiting tables in the dining room. And though I was never formally introduced, Lee informed me that Alex Sr. − father of Alex Jr. and grandson of the original Alex Failoni − was sitting at his usual table in the back. I swear to Goodfellas, the only thing I didn’t see that night was someone bringing out a white
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tableclothed two-top from the back for a pair of VIPs, and even that wouldn’t have surprised me. Failoni’s on a Friday night is packed. They do take reservations, but they take them only once. In other words, they take reservations for approximately 70 people because the entire place can probably seat about 70 people. You come to Failoni’s to eat, but you don’t leave. “If you make a reservation,” explains Alex Jr., “you make it for the whole night.” The main room at Failoni’s houses the bar, a 40-foot hunk of wood that acts as the stage for the oldest still-in-use cash register in the greater St. Louis area. It has actual buttons. And I don’t mean like a calculator has buttons, I mean that if you want to ring up a beer ($3.50!), you literally hit the “3” button on the dollar side and then the “50” button on the cents side. And when you cash out, it gives off a satisfying ka-ching sound, sliding out a drawer that’s purposefully left open. I can only assume that the opening mechanism broke decades ago. It’s here, amidst a chorus of ka-chings, that Vic has stationed me. Much like nearly everything else in life, to bartend successfully you have to be prepared. Beer and liquor must be appropriately stocked. Fruit and garnishes need to be cut, prepped and stationed at various points of the bar. The same goes for glassware. All of this needs to be ready so that you can accomplish the one singular goal of bartending: get the customer a drink. After getting the lay of the land, I ask Lee what their count is on a standard pour. Depending on whom you ask, a standard mixed drink contains anywhere from 1 to 1½ ounces of alcohol. To save time, most bartenders simply count out the pour − again, this varies, but it’s typically between a three (one one-thousand, two one-thousand, three one-thousand) and four second count. Lee’s response? “Don’t worry about the cocktails.”
Admittedly, I was a bit frustrated. Eighteen-yearold sorority girls on campuses across this country were pouring rum and diets as we spoke. I’m pretty sure I could handle at least that. I couldn’t. First, Lee was too damn fast. On one occasion he had made a guy’s drink before the guy even entered the building. Lee had seen the man’s wife through the window and started getting things ready. Second, nobody trusted me. As a super-nitpicky guy myself, I actually don’t blame anyone for this. Failoni’s is a die-hard regulars bar. They know what they want and who makes it best. I asked a group at the end of the bar multiple times if I could get them anything. They politely declined, but once Lee went over he returned with a three-drink order. Finally, I’m too ADHD. My first instinct when I see an empty glass is to remove it and immediately ask if you’d like another. But at Failoni’s the people tend to linger over their highballs, swirling ice and taking sips of things I couldn’t see with my untrained eyes. I stopped asking people if they needed anything after a while because I didn’t want to annoy them. Lee, on the other hand, seemed to always know exactly when someone wanted another drink, a skill honed over what I suspect were years of repetition and experience.
“This is the most wonderful family you’ll ever meet.” I didn’t know whom to source for that quote because the AP Stylebook doesn’t have a solution for how to quote a billion people all telling you the same thing. Everybody who spoke to me that night − and there were many, all wanting to know who the new guy was − all said the same thing. The Failonis are great. They’re fantastic. They’re real people. And they were great, exceedingly hospitable and super-patient with me as I searched in the recesses of the cooler for a Busch bottle and rustled around their register to make change. But the regulars are something else. I “worked” for a few hours behind the bar at Failoni’s on a busy Friday night. In that time, I was bombarded with gifts of food and drink, all from regulars. One woman accosted me to try the pizza she and her husband ordered. Another regular − Rick, or maybe Tim − literally unrolled his silverware and cut me off the first bite of his steak that had just been delivered. He also bought me a shot. Then the other regular, Tim or Rick, bought me a beer. Then another beer was bought for me. And another shot.
To be honest, nothing at Failoni’s made sense to me. The fruit trays were half a bar away, meaning you had to maneuver around Lee or Vic or Alex to garnish a drink. The beer glasses were chilled in a refrigerator completely on the other side of the room. The Bud Lights were on the left side of the coolers, except for when they were on the right side mixed in the same six-pack cardboard container with two Bud Light Limes and a Michelob Ultra. While I sputtered around to the best of my abilities, the three guys behind the bar moved deftly and with purpose.
As I mentioned before, I am a highly skilled bartender, and one of the talents necessary for being a skilled bartender is graciously accepting free drinks from patrons. As the night wore on and the crowd got a bit rowdier, I thought it best to remove myself from behind the bar and head home. I’d been in their way for long enough. As I got my things to leave, I was handshaked, back-patted and hugged out the door by Vic and Lee and regulars alike. I turned a final time to see women getting atop the bar to dance and Joey, the nephew who makes the pizzas, taking his turn behind the microphone now that his kitchen was closed. And all the while Lee and Vic and Alex stood watch behind the bar.
The system at Failoni’s is built on years of working together. Instead of running to the end of the bar,
Failoni’s Restaurant, 6715 Manchester Ave., Dogtown, 314.781.5221, failonis.com
Simply the best Steaks and Seafood Kreis’ serves the finest USDA Prime Mid Western Corn-fed Beef,aged four to six weeks in house. We offer an extensive choice of the classic Steak Cuts and Seafood including our famous Prime Rib. Simply the best available-Top 2%. As well as Colorado Lamb Chops, the best you can buy! Bring In This Ad For:
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Tucker's Lobster Friday $22.95 2 - 6oz. Maine Lobster Tails Dinner Includes Loaded Potato & Salad For over 30 years Tucker’s has consistently prepared top-quality American cuisine with steaks cut fresh daily. Delicious food, a relaxed and cozy atmosphere, terrific service and reasonable prices make Tucker’s what it is today … an excellent dining experience in St. Louis! The place for steaks in St. Louis.
14282 Manchester Rd. • 636.227.8062 • tuckersplacestl.com
Let's eat pork! Naturally Raised Pork, Produce and More! Since 1916, there has been little change to the way hogs have been raised on the Geisert Farm, just east of Washington, MO. Pigs are farrowed in “A” frame houses in fields that previously had a crop harvested from it the season before. Today, grain is delivered by modern equipment rather than by horse, but when it comes to tending to the herds, it is still done by hand… many hands. Several generations can be found out in the field helping with sorting and feeding of the pigs, just as it was done over 97 years ago. Check us out online at toadspigs.com for more information on the products we sell and where you can buy them. If the sun’s up, we’re open!
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314.646.0700 • 618.310.3942 • nomoreladders.com Inspired Food Culture
March 2013
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Dehydrating
Story and recipe by Cassy Vires Photography by Jennifer Silverberg
Food dehydrating is something people think they know a lot about. I mean, who hasn’t seen those infomercials about how “you too can make your own beef jerky”? But dehydrating is more than two easy payments of $39.99 – it’s a time-honored food preservation method that has touched almost every corner of the globe and gives us enhanced flavors in meats, seafood, fruits and vegetables. While these treats are often wonderful enjoyed on their own, they also make a great base for sauces or stews. Dried mushrooms, for example, are extremely potent and make wonderful soups, stocks and sauces. Dehydrating at its core is simple – it’s all about the moisture. In theory, anything with moisture can be dehydrated, and all you need to do to dehydrate something is remove that moisture. But, of course, there’s a bit more to it than that. Moisture is one of the things that allows the microbes that cause decay and spoilage to thrive and multiply. Dehydrated food has an incredibly long shelf life because of its lack of moisture, but as with most food preservation methods, salt plays a big role. Salt is especially important with proteins, as they are more apt to spoil and can also cause more harm when not preserved correctly. Whether you’re making jerky, dried fish or any other proteinbased item, the food is in the temperature “danger zone” for an extended period of time while it dries, and harmful bacteria may start to grow. An overnight salt brine will slow the potential bacterial growth, allowing the dehydrating process to take the time it needs. Of course, if you have a food dehydrator, please use it. If you don’t, your home oven will do the trick just fine. The ideal temperature for dehydrating is 130°F to 150°F. Foods dehydrated at too high of a temperature will harden on the outside before the moisture from the inside is removed, allowing for spoilage. Too-low temperatures allow time for bacteria to grow before the moisture is removed. Ideally, try to maintain a steady temperature as much as possible and use an oven-safe thermometer to monitor the process. Make sure the windows and doors in the kitchen are closed and don’t open the oven door too often. To set your oven at the ideal temperature of 130°F, preheat to the lowest temperature the oven will go and place an oven-safe thermometer inside. Turn the oven fan on if your oven has one. Prop the oven door open with a towel or ball of aluminum foil and adjust the heat setting until the temperature is set. Dehydrading the food in the oven overnight will result in a thoroughly and properly dried product in the morning. Cassy Vires is the owner and chef of Home Wine Kitchen and the forthcomingTable, opening in Benton Park this summer.
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Shrimp Paste
Shrimp paste is a staple in any Thai kitchen. This potent condiment is traditionally made from tiny krill that are sundried for a few days. It is often used as the base for curries, salad dressing and stir-fry sauces.
Yield | 2 cups | 2 lbs whole, shell-on krill shrimp or cocktail shrimp 1 cup sea salt
| Preparation | | 1 |Combine the shrimp and salt in a nonreactive container and refrigerate overnight. In the morning, drain off any excess liquid from the shrimp and shake off the excess salt. Preheat oven to 130°F. | 2 | Spread the shrimp evenly on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper or a silicon mat. Place the shrimp in
the oven and let dehydrate overnight, stirring occasionally. | 3 | The shrimp will be dry and
brittle and will fall apart easily. | 4 | Using a mortar and pestle, grind the shrimp into a fine paste. (Turn to p. 36 for mortar and pestle recommendations.) Add a few drops of water as needed to get the paste to come together. Store in a glass jar in the refrigerator for up to three months.
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Our Schnucks Cooks how-to videos are full of tips and techniques from our team of culinary experts. If you want to learn more, check out our video library at schnuckscooks.com. You’ll also find a variety of Schnucks Cooks recipes for quick, easy and affordable meal solutions. At our in-store Schnucks Cooks stations, our experienced teammates will demonstrate how to cook our featured recipes and sample them for you to try! You’ll find all the ingredients for each recipe next to our Schnucks Cooks station in select stores.
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Making Guinness® Cheesecake
Cheesecake is a decadent cheese and egg custard. Watch our step-by-step how-to video online to see how to make one from scratch. For this rich and dense delight, here are a few steps to get started.
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To make crust, crush Oreo® cookies and butter in a food processor; firmly press into the bottom of a springform pan and bake for 15 minutes.
Bake cheesecake in water bath. mixed,Cheesecake batter must be well but not over beaten. Use a stand It is finished when edges are set and mixer with a paddle attachment, not whisk, to create a better texture.
the center jiggles. Do not overcook. Cake will fully set once cool or chilled.
Visit schnuckscooks.com for Schnucks Cooks videos, recipes, locations, our monthly newsletter and more! ©2013 Schnucks
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Spice Grinders
Liberty Ware 4-inch Granite Mortar and Pestle PROS
An inexpensive find, this mortar and pestle handled small jobs well, like bruising toasted fennel seeds or mashing dried peppers into flakes. It’s handsome, machined from black granite with speckles of grey in a classic cup-and-pedestal shape. The business end of the pestle remains unpolished so there’s some grit in the grinding action for an easier breakdown of the spice.
Kuhn Rikon Ratchet Grinder PROS
An easy-on-the hands, quick, manual mill that’s designed to grind peppercorns, sea salt, flaxseeds or spices. We tested only spices. The Kuhn Rikon design allows for a good amount of whole spices, a quarter-cup. They grind down evenly, from coarse to fine with the turn of a nut. A good inbetween solution from the slow, hard grind of the mortar and pestle to the fast whirl of the electric grinders.
CONS
With a cup diameter of 4 inches and a depth of just 2 inches, this black beauty can’t handle more than a few tablespoons of whole spices. The pedestal base is narrow, causing the bowl to rock when the pestle strikes. The narrow end of the pestle butts against the palm, which caused some pain after a bout of pounding. $11.14; Sessions Fixture Co., 6044 Lemay Ferry Road, Oakville, sessionfixtures.com
Filling the chamber bordered on tedious, but a well-placed funnel shunted spices in with ease. On tough seeds, like the fenugreek, the ratchet hung up and needed a forceful pull to resume the action. Cleanup is inexact; an extra grind of coarse salt or white rice removes spice residue from the chamber. Oily spices like cloves or star anise will pit the plastic on the grinder. $19.95; Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, kitchenconservatory.com
Capresso Cool Grind Coffee & Spice Grinder
The Orb Mortar and Pestle by Joseph Joseph
PROS
PROS
Dependable and consistent grinds in no time. The wide cutting blades produced the most consistent spice powders of the two electrics tested. An easy push button on the top allows for quick pulses or long grinds. The chamber stays cool throughout the process, which is a good thing for retaining flavor. This is a very nice tool . . .
The zoomy orb shape gives this old-asthe-hills tool new wheels. The curved sides of the mortar and the big-ball pestle provide greater surface contact with each twist on the nonabsorbent vitrified porcelain wall. The top doubles as a small mortar. No hurt hands either. The long shank on the pestle places the grip between thumb and forefinger for a more comfortable smash. Innovative and utilitarian design at work.
CONS
CONS
written by Pat Eby Photography by Jonathan Gayman
. . . even though cleanup is a grind. The plastic top can be immersed in water, but the chamber must be wiped down by hand. To clear the scent and residue requires a second grind of white rice, which is then dusted out of the chamber. $19.99; Bed Bath and Beyond, multiple locations, bedbathandbeyond.com
Fine, Medium or Coarse. It’s easy to make a case for a two-grinder kitchen. Spiced teas, mulled wines and pickles work best with spices mashed to chunky pieces. Buttery cookies, pâtés and velvety soups need spices ground to delicate grains that disappear and then beguile with an unexpected flavor. Country mustards, Texas chili and sausages require a
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PROS
CONS
None that should stop you from buying this orb. The curve that keeps spices corralled during the action inhibits pouring the ground spices out. You need to hold the top steady if you use it as a small mortar because the round shape rocks. Mere quibbles.
A simple push and hold with the palm starts the grinding action. The lid pulls of easily so you can check the status of each spice. Grinds up to a half-cup of many spices. Easy, quick cleanup by design. The stainless steel grinding cup twists off the base. It’s dishwashersafe, as is the clear plastic lid. Easy to operate for anyone. CONS
The spice particles, whether coarse or fine, didn’t always process uniformly. Sometimes the motor smelled hot toward the end of a grind and the spices came out warm. $39.99; World Market, multiple locations, worldmarket.com
$35; Bertarelli Cutlery, 1927 Marconi Ave., The Hill, bertarellicutlery.com
Che
ck o pag ut e
What to look for : The Grind. Mortars and pestles, hand-held nonelectric mills and electric coffee/spice grinders all churn out fresh, fragrant spices. A mortar and pestle smashes slow and the spices crumble unevenly, leaving fine grains and woody seed hulls side by side. Expect more uniformity and tinier bits with a hand-held nonelectric mill, but if powdery clouds of ultra-fine spices blended into stews, casseroles and baked goods rev your motor, go electric.
Cuisinart Spice and Nut Grinder
coarser grind to support their heartier structures. Owning two grinders makes sense if you use spices often. Ease of Operation. Choose a grinder that works with your cooking style, time and physical strength. Mortars and pestles require elbow, wrist, hand and shoulder grease to crush the seeds and hulls, plus you’ll spend five minutes or more pounding out a few tablespoons of each spice. Nonelectric grinders use either a torque or a ratchet action to turn the blades that pulverize the spices and average three to five minutes to yield a quarter-cup. Expect some strain on wrists and hands. Electric grinders whizz through the seeds, stems, hulls and bark of spices with ease, usually within one or two minutes, with no demands on bodies.
34!
Use one of these great grinders to make a variety of Thai ingredients, such as the shrimp paste in this month’s Tech School.
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Rites of Spring This spring we bring lamb to the table in a fresh and different way. Meet lamb tenderloin – much smaller than beef or pork; deliciously lamby; and, when cooked well, tender and succulent. A lean cut with no bone, the tenderloin is best served rare to medium-rare. As winter retreats and the sun starts shining again, we're ready to ditch heavy stews and thick sauces, so we developed a menu that focuses on the light and bright offerings of spring produce. Pan-searing the tenderloin gives it
Story and recipe by Tory Bahn Photography by Jennifer Silverberg
a caramelized crust with a perfectly juicy inside. To complement the trademark gaminess of lamb, serve it over a velvety purée of sweet spring peas. To round out the dish and have a contrast to the delicate texture of the meat, make a crisp salad of aromatic fennel, peppery arugula and fresh mint. Buttery roasted sunchokes will add a rich, earthy note to the meal. And close the evening with lightly sweetened coconut macaroons.
Pan-Seared Lamb Tenderloin with Fennel Salad and Pea Purée Serves | 6 to 8 | Fennel Salad 2 cups fresh spring peas
3 bulbs fennel (approximately 1½ pounds)
kosher salt and freshly ground
| Preparation – Pea Purée | Prepare an ice
black pepper
bath. Bring a small pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the peas for 3 minutes. Remove peas from water and place in ice bath. Set aside.
Lamb Tenderloins
6 cups arugula
4
1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced
kosher salt and freshly ground
1 bunch mint leaves, coarsely chopped
black pepper
1 tsp sea salt
4 Tbsp grapeseed oil
lamb tenderloins
¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper ½ cup high-quality, fruity extra-virgin olive oil juice of 2 lemons Pea Purée 2 ½ cups fresh spring peas
¼
cup grapeseed oil
¼
cup chopped shallots
1 clove garlic, minced ½
cup dry white wine
½
cup chicken stock
| Preparation – Fennel Salad | Prepare an ice bath. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch peas in boiling water for about 2 minutes or until just slightly tender. Remove peas from water and place in ice bath. Drain peas and place in a large bowl. Thinly slice fennel with a mandoline or knife and add to the bowl. Add arugula, scallions, mint, salt and pepper. Drizzle with olive oil and lemon juice and toss to coat. Adjust seasoning and set aside.
In a medium saucepot over medium heat, add the grapeseed oil and sauté the shallots until translucent. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant. Add the white wine and simmer until reduced by half. Add the chicken stock and reduce slightly. Bring to a simmer and add the peas and then place in a blender or food processor and purée until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.
| Preparation – Lamb Tenderloins | Bring lamb to room temperature before cooking. Season generously with salt, pepper and grapeseed oil. Preheat skillet to medium-high
chef’s tips : Stop bath. Make sure to have an ice bath ready before blanching fresh vegetables. Blanching only takes a few minutes at most and you want to stop
the cooking process immediately in the ice water to for crisp vegetables that retain their bright color. Once they’ve cooled remove them from the water to avoid water-logged veggies. Whole foods. You’ll often find fennel in its whole form with fronds attached. All of the fennel is edible and shouldn’t be wasted. Consider using the delicate fronds or leaves as garnish. Or as with any fresh herb, add them to vinaigrettes, sauces or even to a fresh green salad.
heat and add lamb loins. Sear approximately 3 to 4 minutes. Turn each loin and cook until entire loin is seared and has a nice crust. Remove to a plate and tent loosely with foil. Let lamb rest for 10 minutes before serving.
JOIN US! RSVP:
schnuckscooks.com 314.909.1704
m a k e th e m ea
l: Pan-Seared Lamb Te nderloin ○ Sprin g Pea Purée ○ Fenn el Salad with Citrus Vinaigrette ○ Roas ted Sunchokes ○ Coco nut Macaroons ○
LEA r n M ORE :
In this month’s cooking
class you'll learn how to estimat e the doneness of meat by touch. W e’ll explore sunchokes and how to use them in different dishes and practice safety using a mandoline as well as learn to slice thinly enough wi thout one.
get hands-on: Join FEAST and Schnucks Cooks Cooking School on Wed., March 27, at 6pm to make the dishes in this month’s menu. Tickets are just $40 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RSVP at schnuckscooks.com. 38
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MARCH 2013
Inspired Food Culture
March 2013
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How about a culinary trip to Munich? Our large selection of award-winning Bavarian Bier, famous Riesling wines, seasonal specialties and "Gemuetlichkeit" will make you feel like you just visited Bavaria. During March discover our Lent specialties, wild boar, and of course our large standard menu of authentic German dishes. Live Oompah and accordion music every second and fourth Saturday. Visit our website at www.roemertopfllc.com for pictures, music schedule and special events. Reservations recommended! Live music every 2nd & 4th Saturday • Groups welcome Tues-Fri 11-2 & 5-9, Sat 5-9, Sun 5-8. Closed on Mondays.
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March 2013
though st. louis is
known near and far for its pork steaks, its gooey butter cake and Italian specialties on The Hill, locals have a serious appetite for Thai food. An abundance of Thai restaurants serve up stir-fries, salads, soups, curries and noodles flavored with that signature combination of hot, sweet, sour and salty that keeps us coming back for more. The most popular dishes in Thailand − pad thai, fried rice, tom yum soup, and red and green curries − come from the culinary traditions of central Thailand and are referred to as Bangkok cuisine. You’ll find these dishes on menus at most Thai restaurants, but there’s so much more to experience: spicy-hot soups and curries from the south, sausages and sticky rice from the north and plenty of fried meats from the northeast. You don’t have to travel to these regions to sample these foods. It’s all available here in St. Louis, and we’ve dedicated this issue to the bounty of Thai food in our local culinary scene. Turn the page to tour restaurants serving up exceptional regional Thai dishes that push diners beyond the familiarity of Bangkok cuisine (p. 46), explore the many uses of rice in Thai cooking (p. 56), go behind the scenes at King and I to learn how this popular restaurant been pleasing St. Louis palates for 30 years (p. 60) and end on a sweet note with three family dessert recipes from Fork & Stix’s Phatcharin Wanna, a native of north Thailand. Peppered throughout are guides to stocking up on Thai ingredients, properly serving pad thai at home, cooking a beautiful pot of jasmine rice and navigating Thai menus. Dig in and start exploring.
north
northeastern central
south
touring thailand Written by Andrew Mark Veety
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photography by Jennifer Silverberg
southern thailand forms the midsection of the malay peninsula. narrow and gently arching, its coasts are punctuated with mountain ranges and deep forests that separate the South China Sea from the Indian Ocean. The land is home to groves of coconut trees, whose fruits cradle sweet milk that tempers the region’s distinctive and fiery curries. Travel north along the Gulf of Thailand, a tapestry of beaches and resorts that give way to the frenetic streets of Bangkok − Thailand’s capital and largest city − and on to the heart of the country. This area is known for its prodigious production of rice and the royal cuisine of what was known as Siam, a melding of the flavors and cooking techniques of the kingdom’s southern, northern and northeast corners with those of China, Japan, Vietnam and India into one that is commonly known as Thai.
Hung lay curry, Fork & Stix
To the north and east, glutinous − sticky − rice is harvested on land that gives way to a broad
plateau connecting people, language and cuisine with nearby Laos and northern Cambodia. Northeastern Thai dishes tend to be understated and reserved compared to those in the north and south, yet looks can be deceiving, as northeastern dishes derive rich flavor from a liberal use of herbs such as mint and basil and an array of meats: pork, beef and chicken, but also water buffalo, frogs and fried insects that remind some of crunchy, freshly made potato chips. Finally, rising from the gulf and past the plains, the northern land transforms into a network of mountain ranges and river valleys, natural conduits that feed moisture to the rice fields to the south. The area is home to one of the most culinarily interesting cities in all of Thailand, Chiang Mai, known for cuisine both traditional and contemporary, offering diners a dizzying array of
flavors and textures to choose from, often served up with rice or noodles in restaurants, at food stalls and by street vendors. To dine as the Thai do is to immerse yourself in the complex relationship between heat, sweetness, sourness, bitterness and salinity. It is to gather with others to share a meal, eschewing formal courses in favor of a bounty of bowls and saucers, spread across floors and tables. A meal where salads and soups, skewered street food and bowls of noodles reside on equal footing with the finest dishes of the kingdom. A meal presented family-style, personalized with smoky and fiery dips and sweet and sour sauces within the safe confines of the preferred tool of Thai dining, the spoon. We searched near and far for the best of Thailand in St. Louis and share with you the restaurants and dishes we discovered.
Sai ua and naam prik nuum
fork & stix For historical and geographical reasons, northern Thai cuisine is culturally different from that of the rest of Thailand. Even in the height of the monarch’s reign, the region was relatively isolated from the south and the king in Bangkok and remained so until a railroad was built between the two in the early 1900s. While northern dishes can be found on menus across St. Louis, it was only recently that University City’s Fork & Stix introduced a menu consisting entirely of northern Thai specialties, changing our local perspective of the region’s cuisine within the larger context of Thai cooking − much as the opening of the north by rail allowed a
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steady assimilation of new flavors and approaches into the lexicon of central Thailand dining. Another aspect of Thai cuisine that has been missing in St. Louis is the array of dips, sauces and relishes Thais use to personalize what are effectively communal dishes and meals. These asides are the accent notes of a Thai meal, a way to add to or temper the levels of spice, sweetness, sourness and salt in a dish. Without the utility of these extras, it’s almost impossible to unlock the secret to Thai cooking, the element that takes a dish from delicious to exceptional.
For the north, the keys to this culinary sleight of hand come from spice and salt, and at Fork & Stix this calls for an order of naam prik nuum, a dip of roasted chiles, cilantro, shallots and garlic that is meant for steamed vegetables, where it adds a bit of heat akin to that of a Szechuan pickle. It is equally excellent atop sai ua, grilled pork sausage, and as an alternative to the sweet sauce accompanying hoy joaw, pingpong-ball-sized dumplings filled with minced pork and shellfish. Pork plays a large part in the northern Thai diet, making hung lay curry a must-try as well. The
dish features sections of pork tenderloin in a curry enriched with chiles, garlic, lemongrass and cilantro. But when you dig in, you will discover a treat: cubes of pork belly with much of its fat cap still attached. A tip? These fatty morsels also play well with a bit of sticky rice and naam prik nuum, a tableside discovery that may necessitate the ordering of a second delicious serving of this versatile Thai condiment. 549 Rosedale Ave., The Loop 314.863.5572 Fork & Stix’s hung lay curry pictured on p. 44.
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Experience Franco's Exceptional menu in its Stunning dining room. Since winning Best new Restaurant years ago, Franco has continued to receive Acclaim from the Wall Street Journal, N.Y. Times, and was again named one of St. Louis' Best Restaurants by St. Louis Magazine. Rediscover why you Fell in Love, with Franco! Complimentary parking • private event Space for 10-200 guests. Call for reservations 314-436-2500 diNNER MON ~ SAT 1535 SouTh eighTh iN Soulard • @FrancoSTL • www.EatAtFranco.com
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Thank you for Voting Nico, the #1 New Restaurant in All of St. Louis by the Readers of the RFT! Join us in our Beautiful dining Room on One of America's Best Streets, The delmar Loop!. Live Music after dinner every Wednesday-Saturday Night.
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Call for reservations 314-727-0200 OpEN 7 dAYS A WEEk 11AM TO cLOSE WiTh BRuNch ON SAT & SuN 6525 delmar loop • @NicoSTl • www.NicoSTl.com
Inspired Food Culture
March 2013
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Pad ped hoy lai
addie’s thai house Owners Louis and Muay Brinckwirth may have dressed up Addie’s Thai House − named after their daughter − in the trappings of royal Thai cuisine, but the pair have created an expansive yet well-edited menu that highlights the best from all of Thailand’s regions: plates of roasted coconut from the south, street foods from Bangkok and curries from the heartland, often paired with fish swimming in a broth of spicy chiles, lemongrass and sweet coconut. Pad ped hoy lai − a spicy stir-fry of clams
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dressed in nam prik pao, a sweet-and-sour jam with chiles − is a decadent treat, especially when one plucks an orb of salty meat from its shell and passes it through an elixir of jam and liquor released from the opening of clams while they are cooking. Moo ping, a popular Thai street food of skewered and grilled sections of marinated pork, may remind some of a less fatty version of the Japanese pork belly dish butabara, with a slightly sweet flavor and a delicate crust that surrounds and contrasts with the tender meat inside. The dish arrives tableside with hot sauce
for dipping but should be enjoyed unadorned for a bite or two before a hit of heat is added. Wok-fried freshwater trout and Japanese eggplant − both prepared skin-on − swim in a green curry of chile, coconut milk and the satisfying tang of sour kaffir lime leaf. High heat from the wok renders and crisps the trout skin into a tasty snack that should be enjoyed first, before it gives up its snap to the curry that fills its plate. Noodle lovers should not pass up the chance to put spoon and chopsticks to a bowl of
khao soi, a Burmese-inspired dish often served in the northeastern city of Chiang Mai. Big flavors and heat emanate from a base of thinner-thannormal yellow curry, yet it is the juxtaposition of submerged boiled egg noodles with crispy fried ones floating atop the curry that proves the key to this dish is the contrasting textures of noodles prepared two ways. 13441 Olive Blvd., Chesterfield 314.469.1660 addiesthaihouse.com
Best fried chicken in the midwest Join us for Sunday family style chicken dinners
114 W. Mill St. • Waterloo, IL • 618.939.9933 • gallagherswaterloo.com
Chi Mangia Bene Vive Bene! "To Eat Well is To Live Well" Since arriving in America from Belpasso, Italy, more than 30 years ago, Giuseppe Prezzavento has been serving up delicious food. In October of 2006, Giuseppe and his wife, Grace, opened Trattoria Giuseppe, with his years of American eatery experience and his signature spaghetti sauce ready to impress the patrons. The entire Prezzavento family is a part of the restaurant: Giuseppe cooks, Grace serves as hostess and their sons, John, Paul and Joe, can often be found working or enjoying the food. Giuseppe says, "Everything we do here comes from the heart." Reservations Recomended, Hours of Operation: Tuesday - Saturday 11am-10pm • Sunday Noon-9pm • Closed Monday
5442 Hwy 21• Imperial • 636.942.2405 • trattoria-giuseppe.com
Fun Food, Happy People, Great Drinks! FEAST FAVE • Cleveland Heath Chicken Wings Crispy, Sweet, Spicy VOTED BEST NEW RESTAURANT - 2012 by the RIVERFRONT TIMES VOTED FAVORITE NEW RESTAURANT - 2012 by SAUCE MAGAZINE Mon-Fri 11:00-close, Sat 10:00-close Offering Saturday brunch First Come - First Serve (No reservations) Open Mon - Fri starting at 11 am and Sat starting at 10 am
106 N. Main St. • Edwardsville • 618.307.4830
Deans Liquor A full service provider of alcoholic beverages, to include a large wine selection & a variety of tobacco products. Join us for Tastings every Friday Night from 5pm to 8pm! • Over 700 wines in stock from grape varieties grown across the globe • Over 200 bourbons, scotches, and other whiskeys in stock • Over 100 micro and import beers in stock • Large selection of cigars • In business since 1939
210 W. Main St.• Collinsville • 618.344.4930 • Visit us on
• Follow us on
• deansliquor.com
Inspired Food Culture
March 2013
49
Spicy beef salad
thai kitchen It matters little whether it’s pulled from a river or the warm waters of the Gulf of Thailand – fish, shellfish and the occasional amphibian play an important role in Thai cuisine. Of all the delicious expressions of this aspect of Thai cooking to be found at Thai Kitchen − shrimp in numerous forms, tossed in noodles and submerged in soups; whole fishes adorned with curry; flavorful sauces of garlic and chiles for frog legs − hoi tord stands out as the dish to build a meal around. In Thailand, hoi tord is commonly purchased from iron-skillet-wielding street vendors, briskly
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turning out these oblong, crisp pancakes filled with the meat of large green mussels that are quickly dipped into sriracha before being tossed into a waiting mouth for a burst of flavor that is a bit spicy, a bit savory and pleasantly salty. A duo of Thai Kitchen’s salads pairs nicely with hoi tord. The first is a simple spicy beef salad that offers heat but also the cooling touch of sliced cucumber, cilantro and greens. More distinct Thai flavors are found in a plate of larb gai, a traditional salad of finely minced meat −
in this case, chicken − that carries a bit of heat from chiles but stands out for the combination of sour lime juice and the slightly bitter nature of sturdy greens that accompany the dish. Traditionalists may prefer to eat larb gai with fingers, balling up the mixture with a bit of sticky rice; however, it is just as acceptable to use a fork. Better yet, roll the minced meat with greens and eat it as one would a lettuce wrap. Lastly, a menu item labeled “spicy noodles” may be nondescript, but fans of pad thai or
variations on drunken noodles will relish digging into long, flat and chewy noodles tossed with chiles, tomatoes, basil and green peppers. Unlike the thin, almost translucent rice noodles used in pad thai, these wider noodles are toothsome and filling, not to mention up to the task of carrying chunks of tomato and pepper from plate to waiting mouth. 2031 Dorsett Village, Maryland Heights 314.439.1888 thaikitchenstl.com
Join us during Lent Enjoy our delcious Lenten options throughout the Lenten Season! Featuring two 6 oz. fried or baked lobster tails and shrimp scampi. Pasta dishes featured too. Our regular menu will also be available featuring our Talk-n-Chick chicken, seafood, homemade pastas, steaks, etc. New wine list. Visit our website for a chance to win a $25.00 gift card! Only 25 minutes from St. Louis. 255 N IL to Fosterburg Rd. Exit 13. Open at 11am daily for lunch and dinner (Closed Mondays).
3400 Fosterburg Rd. • Alton, IL • 618.462.4620 • castellis255.com
Come taste the difference at Manee Thai! Manee Thai serves up West County's finest Thai food with exciting dishes and unique ambiance. At Manee Thai, every dish is created using only the freshest, finest ingredients. Our authentic menu and atmosphere create a truly enjoyable dining experience. $7.99 Lunch Special served with spring roll, crab angel and soup of the day. Open for Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner Monday-Thursday 5-9 p.m., Friday 5-10 p.m., Saturday noon-10 p.m. and Sunday noon-9 p.m.
$5 off a purchase of $25. Expires 4/30/13
481 Lafayette Center (Baxter & Manchester) • Ballwin • 636.256.8898 •
Family owned and operated since 1967. We sharpen • Knives • Garden tools • Scissors • Lawn mower blades
• Old fashion rotary mowers • And much much more
Wide selection of Wusthof Knives, Global Knives, Victorinox Knives, AllClad Pans, Capresso Coffee Makers, Atlas Pasta Machines, Emile Henry Bakeware, USA Pan Bakeware, Vic Firth Pepper Mills, and other World Class brands. Great selection of High end Knives, Cookware, Kitchen tools and gadgets. Great Holiday specials.
Bertarelli Cutlery 1927 Marconi • Saint Louis 314.664.4005
Bertarelli Cutlery
Inspired Food Culture
@STLKNIVES
March 2013
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Black bean and rice pudding & fried bananas
simply thai Location in a barely converted skeleton of a former fast-food establishment? Check. Humble decor and limited seating, usually filled with regulars gathering around family-style meals? Check. A massive order-by-number menu overflowing with photos and descriptions of more otherworldly dishes than you’ll ever be able to order in your first, second or even third visit? Check. Simply Thai hits all the required notes to earn the title “hidden gem,” the kind of place that you go to grab something quick but well prepared.
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Blissfully blistering pla goong − a Thai salad of chile paste, lemongrass, lime leaf, cilantro, red onion and whole tail-on shrimp − is addictive, vacillating between heat and sour with each bite. Slurp-worthy ba mee bped haeng crosses roasted sections of duck still wrapped in its crisp, salty skin, scallion and northeastern Thai herbs with egg noodles that are eaten “dry,” without a broth. Diners will find a more substantial offering in kana moo grob, a serving of sautéed Chinese broccoli and cuts of crispy pork belly where thick
swaths of fat cut through the mildly bitter nature of leafy Asian greens. Both ba mee bped haeng and kana moo grob demonstrate the influences China and its southeastern Asian neighbors have had on Thai cooking, a marriage of cultures that is at once Thai and something more. With all the tempting options to make a meal, remember to save room for dessert. A basket of deep-fried bananas − they are essentially fritters − arrives tableside with a serving of
honey for dipping, a pairing that is simple yet elegant, savory and sweet wrapped in a goldenbrown crust. A lighter − yet much sweeter − option is a bowl of black beans and sticky rice bound by coconut milk to create a complex, textural finish that belies its appearance, reminiscent of a Saturday morning bowl of cereal in the very best of ways. 2470 N. U.S. Highway 67, Florissant 314.921.2179
Bagless Vacuum that is also a Steam Mop This 2 in 1 Cleaning System works on both hard floors and carpet. Easily transitions from hard floors to carpet with on/off brushroll option. Come see a demonstration at one of the 7 local Oreck Clean Home Stores today?
7 St. Louis Area Locations • 314.821.5066 • oreckstore.com/Stl
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Ellisville 15825 Manchester Rd, Ste 209 • St. Charles 1475 Kisker Rd, Ste 270 • Richmond Heights 1034 S. Brentwood Blvd, Ste 725 • 888.492.3129 • hearinghealthcare.org
Not so traditional, traditional logs... We are the Premier Certified Weber Alliance Dealer. We have a large selection of Rasmussen Gas Log Co. vented and vent-free Fireplace Systems. We also feature the Chillbuster CoalFire™. Enjoy the traditional look of a coal burning fireplace without the mess. Check out our specials today.
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14224 Manchester Rd.• Manchester • 636.394.6100 • 2390 Centerline Industrial Dr. • St. Louis • 314.567.6260 Inspired Food Culture
March 2013
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Snowbird dumplings
blue elephant royal thai cuisine A few first-time diners will enter the Blue Elephant with the intent to order the Snowbird Dumplings to start their meal. Others will see it whisk by their table on its way from the kitchen to a waiting guest and feel compelled to partake of the dish based on its appearance alone. The plump pockets of minced chicken and herbs, formed into the shape of winter songbirds, complete with carrot beaks and jet-black edible eyes, are elegant, playful and artistic, the hallmarks of what is thought of as “royal Thai” and the cuisine of central Thailand.
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While some question the existence of a royal Thai cuisine outside of the king’s own dining room − arguing that the people of central Thailand are simply eating the foods of their countrymen − there is little question that, for many, the flawless execution and elevated presentation of wellknown Thai dishes served in refined settings are as close as most will ever come to sharing a meal with the monarch. And, as such, the name persists. Start with the Royal Hot and Sour Soup and
you will find your spoon submerged in a bowl of tom yum goong, a velvety and translucent broth of lemongrass, kaffir lime leaf and small islands of crimson chile oil. The combination is enough to steal the limelight from the shrimp and oyster mushrooms that hide just below the soup’s surface. Along the same lines, each of the Blue Elephant’s curries is balanced − neither too sweet nor too spicy − to create a background of flavor that does not overshadow the cuts of pork, beef, lamb or seafood with which it is
served. Diners searching for one of the most unique flavors on the menu, however, should look no further than the Cinnamon Pork. A fragrant, almost ethereal use of the spice envelops thin cuts of tenderloin, which are lightly fried and served alongside simple steamed vegetables for a meal that is indeed royal. 7816 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton 314.862.0500 blueelephant-stl.com
the thai pantry Written by Brandi Wills
Thai cuisine utilizes a number of intensely flavored ingredients, some familiar to American kitchens and some new and exciting. The following items are key to creating the signature flavors found in traditional Thai dishes and can be purchased at many local Asian grocers.
black vinegar: This aged rice vinegar has an inky black color and a rich, mellow, malty, woodsy and smoky flavor. Similar to balsamic vinegar, it is primarily used in dipping sauces. Try it mixed with pickled ground chiles and garlic. It’s also known in Chinese cuisine as chinkiang vinegar.
curry pastes: Canned curry pastes abound on the shelves of Asian grocers. These quick-fix pastes come in all varieties, from the basic green and red curries to panang (a dry, Indian-style curry), massaman (a thick curry made with roasted, dried spices) or prik khing curry (a spicy ginger curry). They come in small cans, so grab a number of them and explore.
fish sauce and oyster sauce: These sauces have found a regular place in Thai cuisine. Fish sauce is made by fermenting fish with sea salt. The fragrant sauce adds salty umami to dishes. Oyster sauce is made by mixing oyster extracts (the white broth produced by boiling oysters in water) with salt and sugar and thickening the sauce with cornstarch. It brings a savory depth to dishes and is used often in stir-fries. You’ll also find vegetarian oyster sauce on the shelves, which is made with mushrooms instead of oysters.
galangal: The galangal root is a relative of ginger but has a flavor that is even more pungent and fiery. You can find it fresh or, more likely, frozen or minced and jarred. Use it as part of your own homemade curry paste or paired with lemongrass to season soups.
specialty markets, but also consider growing your own kaffir lime plants. The effort is worth it for the fresh leaves’ unique and refreshing flavor, similar to a combination of lemongrass and lime, but one that cannot be substituted. You can also use rind from the limes in curry paste, and the juice of the kaffir lime is used widely in Thailand as a cleanser.
mangosteen: This fruit may have a mild aroma, but it’s bursting with flavor. Its moist, cream-colored sections have a silky mouth feel and taste of peach, orange, strawberry and citrus. Canned mangosteen, which is a bit lacking in flavor, has long been available in markets, but in 2008 the import ban was lifted and now you’ll find fresh mangosteen from Thailand at a number of local Asian grocers. palm sugar: Palm sugar is a natural sweetener made by boiling the sap of a palm tree until it has thickened, then cooling the mixture in the form of a small cake that is firm but slightly soft. The cook then shaves the needed amount from the cake with a knife or grater. It’s found in the cuisines of many Asian cultures, but in Thailand it’s mainly used to sweeten curries, sauces and desserts.
pandan leaves: These long, fragrant leaves are used primarily to add a vanilla-like aroma to desserts, meat dishes and rice. The whole leaf may be wrapped around meat during the cooking process, or smaller pieces can be added to a steamer with jasmine rice to infuse the grains with a mild but alluring flavor. sambal oelek: This Indonesian-inspired raw sauce is
jackfruit: Jackfruit flesh is starchy and fibrous with the flavor of a tart banana and a distinctive sweet and fruity aroma. In local stores it’s most commonly found canned and is wonderful in custards and ice cream or used to garnish desserts.
satay sauce: This staple peanut sauce is rich and thick
kaffir lime leaves: You can find these fragrant and flavorful leaves vacuum-sealed and frozen in
with a nice balance of sweetness and spiciness (although different brands vary in their level of spiciness). Satay sauce gets its name as the token condiment served with
a simple combination of chiles, salt and lime juice or vinegar. It has a sharp taste and brings bright red color to dishes. It’s commonly used to add heat to stir-fries and soups.
satay, which is seasoned, skewered and grilled meat. It’s also tasty with Thai spare ribs and a variety of Thai salads.
shrimp paste and crab paste: These pungent pastes are made by fermenting ground shrimp or ground crab in salt until the consistency reaches a soft, creamy purée. Shrimp paste is used in red curry paste and the popular chile paste nam phrik kapi. Crab paste is great in fried rice and brings a little something different to a dish of pad thai. tamarind: This is a very popular flavoring agent in many global cuisines, boasting an irresistible sweettart taste. In Thailand, tamarind has been cultivated to offer more sweet than sour. It is used in kaeng som, a sour curry, and plays the starring role in a sweet and sour sauce served over fried fish in central Thai cuisine. Tamarind candy is made by preserving tamarind with sugar and chile and is a very popular treat.
Thai eggplant: These golf-ball-sized eggplant can be found in purple, green, yellow and white cultivars. They are quartered and added to a variety of curries or served fresh with nam prik (chile paste) as a snack.
Thai chile: Also known as bird’s eye chile, these small peppers pack a lot of heat (more than a jalapeño and slightly less than a habanero). Most Thai recipes call for this ingredient, in varying amounts, so stock up. They freeze well for long-term storage. young coconut: Young coconut is harvested before full maturity and the clear liquid inside is the source of the oh-so-trendy coconut water. You’ll find young coconut trimmed to look like a small house and shrink-wrapped to maintain freshness. The average coconut contains about 1 cup of liquid and ½ cup of meat. The meat is used to flavor stir-fries, fried rice and green curries. Once you’ve scraped out the meat, you can use the coconut as a serving vessel.
Written by Erik Jacobs
|
photography by Jonathan Gayman
to understand thai cooking, indeed much of Thai culture, one must only look to a single grain. Rice is what binds together Thai people and Thai food. Rice is central to religious rituals, music, the arts and even language. It is so essential to Thai culture that the most common term for eat is kin khao (“consume rice”). And one of the most common greetings is kin khao laew reu yang (“Have you consumed rice yet?”).
grain
There is archaeological data to support the claim that rice has been cultivated in Thailand for more than 9,000 years, predating even Buddha. With such importance placed on rice in the diet, culture and economy of Thailand, there are catastrophic results from a poor crop. Many Thai people believe that rice has a soul, Mae Posop (Rice Goddess or Rice Mother), and at every stage of development of the crop she is bestowed blessings and offerings for a robust harvest. Just as Napa Valley in California is optimal for growing wine grapes, Thailand is perfectly suited to growing rice. The Thai climate and geography lend themselves to different styles of rice, and therein you will find regional variations in types of rice grown and methods for enjoying it. Thai cuisine can feature rice as a full meal and as snacks, beverages and desserts. Far from simply a pile of grains on a plate, rice is consumed in noodle, paper and powder form and even serves as a utensil as sticky rice.
jasmine rice
rice paper
While there are literally thousands of varieties of rice grown and consumed in Thailand, hom mali, or jasmine rice, is the undisputed king of them all. With a sweet aroma and nutty flavor, this long-grained rice is prized by connoisseurs the world over. Used as a topping for different curries, meats, vegetables and fish, steamed jasmine rice (khao suay) is a perfect counterbalance to the amazing mélange of flavors in Thai cuisine. It also takes center stage in Thai fried rice and in the simple but ethereal khao mun gai, boiled chicken with rice cooked in chicken broth. As an agricultural product, there are regional variations of jasmine rice based on geography and climate. The most valued jasmine rice is grown in the northeastern corner of Thailand, near the China border. Ironically, virtually the entire crop there is destined for export, as people in northern Thailand generally eat sticky rice rather than jasmine rice.
What would cuisine be without the humble wrapper? Mexico has its tortillas, and Thailand has its rice paper. Made from a slurry of puréed rice and tapioca starch, rice paper is pressed, dried, steamed and then cut to size. Rice paper, also referred to as spring-roll wrappers, can be eaten in its raw, rehydrated form or cooked and enjoyed as a different textural component than its interior. To prepare rice paper for serving, one needs only water (and patience). One piece at a time, the paper is dipped into water to rehydrate it. Too little time in the water results in the paper cracking and breaking as it is manipulated into shape. Too much time and it dissolves altogether! When done just right, the rice paper becomes a pliable sheet with which to wrap all sorts of edibles. Thai spring rolls often consist of cooked meats, sometimes rice noodles, herbs and vegetables. Wrapped like a burrito, the spring roll can then be fried or served as is with various dipping sauces.
rice noodles
sticky rice
rice flour
rice powder
If you’ve ever enjoyed pad thai, or a steaming bowl of Thai soup, you have certainly enjoyed rice noodles as the primary ingredient. Used in soups, salads and spring rolls, Thai rice noodles, or “rice stick,” are made from rice flour and are generally classified according to width. Sen mee, or rice vermicelli, are not only round but also the thinnest of the rice noodles and are most often found as fillings in spring rolls and soups. Sen lek are thin, flat noodles, and sen yai are wide, flat noodles. Sen lek are most often used in stir-fried noodle dishes like pad thai or pad kee mao, whereas sen yai are often used as a base for braised meat dishes. Cooking rice noodles is an art unto itself, with different methods of preparation for different applications. Oftentimes soaked before cooking in lukewarm water, they can then be stir-fried, boiled and cooled or boiled in soups. It takes a great deal of practice and a deft hand to perfect the different applications.
Khao niew, or sticky rice, is rice with an unusually high concentration of starch. Grown in the northern parts of Thailand and requiring less water than its relatives in the flatlands in the south, sticky rice, also known as sweet rice or glutinous rice (although there is no gluten in it), is prepared by a long soak in water followed by steaming in a bamboo basket. The final product retains the whole grains of the rice but with a chewier texture. The most distinguishing feature of sticky rice is that it is presented at the table as a clump. The rice is pulled from the basket with the right hand, rolled into a ball or cylinder, and then dipped into the sauces and curries served alongside. It can also serve as the “fork,” as it is used to pick up larger items as well. When cooked properly, sticky rice does not stick to the hand rolling it, just to itself. Sticky rice is enjoyed other places in Thailand, mainly as desserts or sweet snacks fortified with coconut milk and mango.
Used as a central ingredient in the manufacture of rice paper and noodles, rice flour is also used in Thai cooking as the basis of many desserts and snacks. There are two main types of rice flour used in Thai cuisine: sticky rice flour (which is sweet and glutinous) and plain rice flour. Sticky rice flour, like sticky rice itself, has a higher starch content than other types of rice and as such is used as a binder much more often than plain rice flour. It is a favorite of Thai cooks who use it in buns and pastries. Plain rice flour is often used as a thickener for soups and sauces because it is milled to a larger, coarser size that goes undetected in liquids. Sticky rice is milled to a much finer consistency. The two are often combined with palm sugar, coconut milk and fruits to make sweet custards and cakes. In the United States and the rest of the world, rice flour is being used much more extensively by those who, by necessity or by choice, eliminate wheat from their diets.
Used in Thai cuisine for textural contrast, for flavor, and to thicken liquids and sauces, roasted rice powder is an ingredient that can turn a pedestrian Thai dish into a truly authentic and delicious one. You can buy toasted rice powder at Asian grocers, but it is just as simple and certainly more economical to make it at home. All you need is uncooked (sticky or jasmine, though you may get a slightly less gritty product with sticky) rice, a heavy-bottomed skillet, a coffee grinder and a good airtight container for storage. As with making a roux, the key to toasting the rice is low heat and a slow toast. After about 10 minutes over mediumlow heat, stirring often, the rice should be a medium-brown color and have a nutty aroma. Allow the rice to cool completely before placing it in a coffee grinder and pulverizing it into a powder. Use no more than two to three tablespoons at a time to ensure even size and texture, so it may take a while to make a big batch.
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A basic pot of fluffy jasmine rice is anything but basic. A number of factors − from the pot you use to the amount of water you put in that pot − determine whether you end up with beautiful, toothsome grains or crunchy or gummy bits. Follow these four easy steps to making a perfect pot of rice every time. Note that sticky rice is prepared differently and is best when cooked using a steamer. Turn to p. 72 for a recipe for coconut sticky rice.
ergh Lindb
Written by Brandi Wills
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Beautifulbegin mornings with us. 1. the water Start by rinsing rice in a few changes of cold water to remove loose starch and the talc that is sometimes present in rice milled outside the U.S. Drain the rice well. Next add the rice and the proper amount of water to your pot. As a general rule, you’ll need 1½ to 1¾ cups of water for every cup of rice. Using more water will result in softer, stickier rice − ideal for serving alongside stir-fries and curries − and using less water will produce firmer rice, best for rice salads.
2. the pot A heavy-based pot will prevent scorching, and a tight-fitting lid holds steam in for evenly cooked rice. If your lid doesn’t have a tight fit, place a clean kitchen towel between the lid and the pot to prevent steam loss.
3. the heat Bring the water to a boil and then immediately lower the heat to a gentle simmer. Many home cooks have suffered the consequences of setting the pot on high and walking away, only to become distracted and return to a pot of scorched rice. Though a watched pot never boils, stay nearby. And when the pot just starts to boil, turn the heat to low or medium-low. Then you can set the timer and walk away.
4. the rest After 12 minutes of simmering, remove the pot from the heat but don’t remove the lid. The rice will be al dente, but it won’t be cooked evenly. The top layer will be drier and fluffier than the bottom layer. If you let the rice rest for 10 to 15 minutes, the moisture in the pot will redistribute and result in a perfectly cooked pot of rice that is dry and fluffy throughout.
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i
king &
in the kitchen at
Written by Jeremy Nulik
photography by Jonathan Gayman
i’m in the way… again. Moon Louneviseth, head chef at King and I, a Thai restaurant on South Grand Boulevard, smiles broadly and waves her hand at me. “Excuse,” she says for what must be the third time in five minutes. I’m in the way again. Louneviseth started with the restaurant as a cook when it opened at a different location back in 1981. After being in her kitchen for no longer than 10 minutes, I realize it was not built for awkward guys who scribble into notebooks. No. From the placement of the trash buckets to the angle of the pans on the stove, this kitchen is the picture of 30 years of efficiency and production. It is a well-oiled machine, and Louneviseth is in the flow.
The experience of the kitchen is a reflection of its hardworking, unapologetically authentic DNA. King and I, the first Thai restaurant in St. Louis, was founded by Suchin Prapaisilp, who migrated to the United States in 1972 with his brother, Preeya, with little more than 700 bucks. “When I opened King and I, there were no Thai restaurants in St. Louis,” says Prapaisilp, who also founded Jay International (formerly Jay Asian Foods) on Grand Boulevard in 1974. “We had some advantages being the first ones. We have never had to deviate or change what we do to match other people. Instead, we get to establish what the customer wants and expects from Thai food.” Prapaisilp’s lean frame hunches forward in his chair as he reaches into a filing cabinet. After ducking under a conveyor belt and rounding a corner, we are now seated in his windowless basement office at Global Foods Market, an international-foods grocery store he opened in Kirkwood in 2001. His office is spotless and Spartan. Prapaisilp searches for a photo he has of the space now occupied by King and I. “I used to bus tables at this place,” says Prapaisilp as he taps the pictured Chinese restaurant. His employment there was one of the three jobs he held when he first came to the United States. He also made donuts, worked in a factory and delivered phone books. He tears up as he recalls the kindness he experienced from strangers and how he used to make ends meet. And it is this level of earnestness, work ethic and gratitude that is evident in both the kitchen and the food at King and I.
Louneviseth’s broad smile stands in stark contrast to the shouting and chaos around her. It’s the kind of smile that, if you were to be eating dinner in her home, says that you will not leave hungry. Three other cooks, mostly of Laotian decent, hurriedly take orders off the printer and toss together stirfry, pad thai and Yum salad. Urgent Thai, Laotian, Spanish and English syllables are hurled between the servers and cooks.
“something that makes thai food unique
With burners constantly on, the kitchen speed and movement create an aromatic assault. Two orders for Basil Chicken come in. The dish starts with garlic and oil on the already hot pan. Just as the aroma of the garlic hits, fish oil is added to the pan with bell peppers and onions. The air feels warm, savory and salty. While that cooks, Louneviseth cracks two eggs over another pan into another pool of oil. Fresh ground chicken and chiles are added to the first pan, and suddenly my eyes water from the spicy heat. Louneviseth sprinkles in whole basil leaves.
is the balance of all of the flavors.”
The first order was “medium hot,” so Louneviseth pours half the portion over jasmine rice. The second order was for “Thai One” – that is beyond “hot.” Louneviseth adds more chiles to the pan along with more fish sauce and herbs. “It is important for her to balance out the spicy with the other flavors,” says Sasi White, general manager, who picked up on the inquisitive look on my face. Louneviseth dishes out the second portion and tops each dish with a fried egg. “Something that makes Thai food unique is the balance of all of the flavors,” says Naam Pruitt, a native of Thailand and author of Lemongrass and Limes, a Thai cookbook. “Thai does not have a main dish the way that American food does. It is meant to be a few smaller courses. A true homemade Thai meal has four flavor components: spicy, sweet, salty and sour.” Pruitt believes that the combination of these four flavors distinguishes Thai food from its neighboring Asian cuisine. For example, Chinese food has salty and sweet flavors, but it lacks the chiles and the lemongrass that create a broader spectrum of bright flavors.
Seafood Hot Pot
Balance is such an integral part of the culture at King and I that the staff is not conscious of it. It transcends the flavors of the food. Spicy foods are served with mild or soy flavors. Salads that are bright in appearance and taste are balanced with warm and calming soups or desserts. While balance is common in Thai cuisine, it is of particular interest to Prapaisilp, who was motivated to start the restaurant that would re-create the flavors and aromas from his youth. His father worked in tin mines that were 80 kilometers into the jungle while his mother cooked food for the workers. During the summer months, Prapaisilp would sell food out of a cart for the workers’ lunches. It was during that time that he learned the principles of listening to your customers and how to properly serve a meal.
Spicy Basil Chicken
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“Everything that we serve at King and I is made from scratch,” says Prapaisilp. “The peanut
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sauce in the satay, all of the curry and the fish sauce – we make all of it at the restaurant. So our food always tastes and looks fresh. That is very important in Thai cooking.”
curry came to thailand
And when he says it is made from scratch, he does not mean it casually. Take the kaffir lime plant. There are few other ingredients that are as quintessentially Thai as the kaffir lime. Its rind is used in curry, and the leaves are used in soups and other dishes. It has a distinctive flavor that cannot be easily matched. Every Thai kitchen should have a plethora on hand. There’s just one problem: Kaffir limes cannot be imported into the United States. But they have found a way around this issue at King and I.
from india. on sundays at king and i, they make their own curry for
“Moon has a couple of plants in her backyard, and so do I,” says White as she smiles. “It is important that we have them here – especially for the curry.”
the week
On Sundays at King and I, they make their own curry for the week – a practice that is not shared by many Thai restaurants. Once you see what goes into the creation, it’s easy to see why. They start by chopping fresh lemongrass, chiles, shallots, garlic, the rind from kaffir limes, galangal, herbs and spices. They chop until it is finely ground. Then they chop more and grind it further with a mortar and pestle. Then they mix in fish oil and coconut milk.
Papaya Salad
“Curry came to Thailand from India,” says Pruitt. “Thai curry is very different from Indian curry, with the use of coconut milk and kaffir limes, but it was Indians and Persians that first created it. A lot of Thai dishes are the result of influence from neighboring countries. The most obvious are India and China. For example, the Chinese introduced deep-frying and stir-fry cooking.” Pruitt describes the culinary landscape of Thailand as having four areas: north, central, south and northeast. Northern food has Burmese influence – many noodle dishes, not a lot of spice, pork and sausages. The central area has the foods that are the most widely served around the world – rice dishes, curry, pad thai and seafood. Southern food has a lot more chile spice and salty flavors – they do not use coconut milk, and they don’t use as much of the sour components. The food in the northeast has a lot of influence from Laos – some raw fish, lots of salads with spicy and sour flavors. “Seafood hot pot.” Louneviseth had to say this twice because the kitchen is loud and because it was a grouping of words I had never heard put together. I had asked her what her favorite dish to prepare was because that is what I would order for dinner. She was kind enough to indulge me. I ordered it mild because I wanted to taste the other flavors before I was overwhelmed with spice. And because I am a wuss.
Seafood Ped
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Louneviseth starts with a pot of chicken broth that was already hot. She adds some crab paste. As that simmers, she gathers a ladle full of galangal, kaffir lime leaves and lemongrass and adds it to the stock. She cooks the shrimp, scallops, calamari and mussels in a separate pan and then adds them with whole mushrooms and fresh chiles to the first pot. A good handful of
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basil and cilantro completes the meal. The presentation is also something to witness. The concoction is served in a donut-shaped bowl with a shaft through the center. At the tableside, the server lights a burner under the bowl and a blue flame emerges from the center. Hovering near it while you are dining means that you are continually romanced into eating more – the full flavors assault the senses.
most of the food that is served at king and i
According to White, most of the food that is served at King and I comes from Bangkok or central Thailand. “I would say something like 90 to 95 percent of the Thai food that you see in restaurants comes from the central part of the country,” she says. “Once in a while you see some north foods or northeast foods like the papaya salad on our menu. But you never see food from the south. It does not appeal to many Americans.”
comes from bangkok or central thailand. Pad Ped
While appealing to many Americans was not necessarily high on Prapaisilp’s list when he opened the restaurant more than 30 years ago, he was mindful of his audience when he named his restaurant King and I. He knew that an American demographic would be familiar with the popular Yul Brynner musical and associate it with Thailand. But the namesake also has another meaning. “Our original head chef was my sister-in-law, who passed away several years ago,” he says. “Her mother worked as a cook for the royal family in Thailand. So a lot of what my sister-in-law learned in the kitchen about how to prepare the meals came from the royal experience. So part of the reason for the name was that this was the way the food was made for the king many years ago.”
Fried Bananas
“You try it,” says Louneviseth while handing me a bowl and spoon with some of the broth from the seafood hot pot. Instantly, I taste the lemongrass and citrus tones followed by the salty taste of the seafood. The warmth of the broth also activates the familiar taste of cilantro. All of the careful attention to balance suddenly becomes clear. Each component of the hot pot has an extreme flavor – the chiles, lemongrass and galangal are bright. But together they create a complex and beautiful balance. As I am paying attention to the first bowl, Louneviseth hands me another one. “Volcano,” she says. Still swooning from the cilantro and lemongrass warmth, I take a sip. At first, it tastes exactly the same. Then the chiles hit the back of my throat. Sweat beads burst on the back of my neck and break out over my scalp. The heat is so intense that my mouth gets numb. Apparently that is what it’s like when you order it “hot.” “That is why we love the seafood hot pot so much,” says White. “It is full of bright flavor.” With sweat dripping off my beard, I ask Louneviseth why she likes to make it. “Because I love it,” she says. “Because it is soup. On a cool day, it makes you feel good.” King and I 3157 S. Grand Blvd., South Grand, 314.771.1777 thaispicy.com
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thai menus 101 Written by Brandi Wills
Most Thai menus are clearly divided into appetizers, soups, salads, curries, stirfries, noodles and fried rice, but the dishes listed in those categories aren’t always as easy to navigate. It can be hard to know exactly what’s in each dish, leaving you to order yet again the green curry or pad thai. But those unfamiliar Thai words tell you all you need to know. The following glossary will help you demystify dish names so you can order with confidence and expand your knowledge of this incredible cuisine.
reading the menu Bami = egg Hoi malaeng poo = mussels Kaeng = curry Kai/gai = chicken Kanum/khanom, Mee/mii/sen = noodles Kao/khao = rice Kao/khao niao = sticky rice Khing = ginger Kung = prawns Makneua = eggplant Maphrao = coconut Moo/mu = pork Nam = water
Nam kathii = coconut milk Nam phrik = chile sauce Neua = beef Pad/phad/phat = stir-fried Ped/pet = duck Phoo/Poo = crab Pla/Plaa = fish Satay = seasoned, skewered, grilled meat Takrai = lemongrass Taohoo = tofu Thua = bean(s) Tom = soup Yumm/yam = salad
6
common dishes Achat A condiment of cucumber and chiles macerated in vinegar and sugar.
Larb/lap A Northeastern-style, spicy and sour salad of minced raw or cooked meat (usually pork, chicken or duck), shallots or onions, lime juice, fish sauce, chiles, ground roasted rice and mint.
Massaman curry A thick, Indian-style curry made with coconut milk, potatoes, peanuts or cashews and meat. It is flavored with palm sugar, fish sauce, chile and tamarind, as well as a number of spices not commonly found in Thai cooking, including cardamom, cinnamon, star anise and nutmeg. It is served with rice and sometimes accompanied with pickled ginger or achat.
Panang curry This mild curry dish is often described as a “dry curry,” meaning it is made with thick coconut milk and little other liquids, making it less soupy than most Thai curries. It is seasoned with chile, galangal, lemongrass, coriander, cumin, garlic and shrimp paste and offered with a variety of meats or tofu.
Som tam Thai papaya salad is a savory salad served made of shredded unripe papaya flavored with lime, chile, fish sauce and sugar. It can be offered in three variations: som tam pu with salted black crab; som tam Thai with peanuts, dried shrimp and palm sugar; and som tam pla ra with fermented fish.
Tom yum A hot and sour broth made with lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves, dried chiles and lime juice, usually served with prawns (tom yum kung) or chicken (tom yum kai). � � �
Head to feastSTL.com to get our editors’ recommendations for what to order from some of St. Louis’ best Thai restaurants.
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proper pad thai
By Phatcharin Wanna, Fork & Stix
8 oz palm sugar 5 oz tamarind pulp
all ingredients in a medium pot over medium heat. Stir constantly until the sugars have dissolved. Reduce to thicken the sauce. Remove the sauce from heat and use immediately or allow it to cool and store in a glass jar in the refrigerator.
Pad Thai
| Preparation – Pad Thai | Cut chive
Pad Thai Sauce 6½ oz fish sauce
photography by Jennifer Silverberg
Quick, name a Thai dish. Yeah, we know you just said “pad thai.” It’s America’s gateway drug to Thai food, luring us in with its stir-fried noodles swathed in that sweet and sticky sauce spiked with sour and salty notes. We love that it’s not too hot and that it comes with those crunchy little peanuts on top. We just can’t get enough. But neither can native Thai diners. It’s often referred to as the national dish of Thailand. While the four main regions of Thailand − north, northeastern, central and southern − each have very different culinary traditions, you’ll find pad thai at any restaurant throughout the country. Order it in the U.S. and the dish comes complete in a bowl, spiced and ready to eat. But in Thailand, where balancing flavors of hot, sour, salty and sweet is the foremost tenet of cooking, creating that all-important harmony is left to the diner. Limes, sugar, fish sauce and chile flakes are served on the side to be mixed into the dish to the preference of the individual, not the chef. Try your hand at making pad thai at home and serve it up the authentic way, with the seasonings on the side.
limes
| Preparation – Pad Thai Sauce | Place
Serves | 2 |
Written by Brandi Wills
fish sauce
Pad Thai
sugar
5 stalks Chinese chives
1/3 cup vegetable oil, divided 1 medium shallot, finely chopped 8 large shrimp 2 eggs ¼ cup preserved radish ¼ cup dried shrimp ¾ cup firm tofu 4 oz fresh or dried rice noodles 2 cups bean sprouts 4 Tbsp crushed roasted peanuts banana blossoms Garnishes sugar fish sauce red chile flakes lime wedges
chile flakes
greens into 1-inch pieces and reserve the whites. Set a flat pan over medium-high heat. Heat half the vegetable oil. Add the shallot and cook until golden-brown. Add shrimp and cook for 1 minute. Add the eggs to the pan and scramble. Add preserved radishes, dried shrimp and tofu. Immediately add the noodles and the pad thai sauce. Stir constantly. Add chive greens and bean sprouts to the pan and gently stir. Divide the pad thai among 2 dishes and garnish with peanuts, banana blossoms and chive whites. Serve lime wedges, fish sauce, sugar and chile flakes in individual dishes on the side.
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Inspired Food Culture
March 2013
69
desse
homemade thai
rts
Written by Brandi Wills
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Recipes by Phatcharin Wanna
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photography by Jennifer Silverberg
The dessert section of most Thai menus would lead one to believe that rice pudding and mango sorbet are the only sweet treats served in Thailand. Not true. We asked Fork & Stix owner Phatcharin Wanna, a northern Thailand native, to share her familyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recipes for authentic Thai desserts. (Look for the ice cream sandwiches to appear on her restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s menu in the near future.) All the ingredients in these tempting creations can be found at local specialty Asian markets. PICTURED FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Nam Kang Sai (Thai Shaved Ice), Thai Custard, Thai Ice Cream Sandwich
Nam Kang Sai (Thai Shaved Ice) Serves | 2 | 1 cup grass jelly in syrup 1 cup palm seed in syrup 1 cup young coconut in syrup 1 cup jackfruit in syrup ½ cup cubed bread 1 cup shaved ice 2 Tbsp condensed milk or evaporated milk Hale’s Blue Boy sala-flavored syrup
| Preparation | In a medium bowl or two small bowls, layer grass jelly, palm seed, young coconut, jackfruit and cubed bread. Add shaved ice. Top with milk, drizzle with sala syrup and serve.
Thai Ice Cream Sandwiches Serves | 2 | ½ 2 1 2 1
cup coconut sticky rice (recipe follows) sweet buns or hot dog buns pint coconut ice cream Tbsp crushed peanuts Tbsp evaporated milk
| Preparation | Using an ice cream scooper, scoop coconut sticky rice onto two split buns. Place two small scoops of ice cream on each sandwich. Sprinkle with peanuts, top with evaporated milk and serve.
Thai Custard Serves | 6 to 8 | 1 1 1 5
eggs until blended. Add the eggs to the coconut milk mixture. Scoop the mixture into ramekins and place the ramekins in a bamboo steamer set over simmering water and cover. Steam until the custard is set, about 20 minutes. Serve custard on top of coconut sticky rice or by itself.
cup coconut milk cup palm sugar or coconut sugar tsp salt eggs
Thai custard served over coconut sticky rice
Coconut Sticky Rice
| Preparation | In a medium pan, heat coconut milk and sugar over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Add salt. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature. In a large bowl, whisk the
½ ½ ½ ½
cup raw Thai sticky rice, soaked overnight, drained and rinsed to get rid of excess starch cup coconut milk cup palm sugar or coconut sugar tsp salt
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| Preparation | Place the rice in a bamboo steaming basket and steam for about 20 minutes. The rice should be cooked through with no raw bits in the middle of the grains. Turn off the heat and keep the rice in the steamer with the lid on. Heat remaining ingredients in a saucepan over medium heat for 2 minutes. The sugar should completely
dissolve and the mixture should be very hot. Take the sticky rice out of the steamer and place it in a medium bowl. Pour the hot coconut milk mixture over the rice and gently stir. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and let the rice stand at room temperature, undisturbed, for 30 minutes. Coconut sticky rice should be served at room temperature.
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for more information Inspired Food Culture
March 2013
73
Black Sticky Rice Pudding
Photography by
Jonathan Gayman
Contributor: Jeremy Nulik, writer Desserts are, by their nature, a form of reward for doing nothing more than being a beast with opposable thumbs that can successfully pack in more calories than necessary. This is manifest in our language. We use words like indulgence, suicide, decadence and Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup ice cream cake. We pile sugar on fat on sugar, and we tell ourselves that we deserve it (or at least this writer does). Flying in the face of this indulgent behavior is the Thai approach to dessert. At Sen Thai, a 10-year-old Thai restaurant in St. Louis’ historic Shell Building, the best-selling dessert – Black Sticky Rice Pudding – is the antithesis of artificial self-reward. With a humble name and presentation reminiscent of Malt-o-Meal, this simple dessert is a sublime ending to any Thai experience. The dish is as stripped-down as the name suggests – black rice is added to boiling water with sugar and coconut milk. However, for a palate that has just been rocked with peanut sauce and curry spice, this dessert creates a kind of balance. The natural sweetness of the rice and coconut soothes the senses and makes for a harmonious end to an evening. It is perhaps equally self-serving, but this indulgence creates a harmony within the senses instead of a guilty feeling about that gym membership you have yet to use this month. Sen Thai Bistro 1221 Locust St., Suite 104, Downtown 314.436.3456, senthaibistro.com Follow Nulik into the kitchen at King and I this month to learn more about authentic Thai cuisine (p. 60).
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