the revival of butchery
up-and-coming chefs
chris desens’ 360° approach
A CUT ABOVE
ON THE BRINK
CULINARY CLASS
Inspired Local Food Culture | Midwest
feastmagazine.com | MarCh 2015
the CheFs Issue
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Inspired Local Food Culture
MARCH 2015
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Inspired Local Food Culture | midwest
Tour Three New Displays and Take Advantage of Special Pricing!
MARCH 2015
Yes you CAN build a new home inside of 270! Visit the Villages of Willowbrooke in Creve Coeur, the intersection of Lindbergh and Schuetz, continue on Schuetz Road past the Jewish Community Center. Then take a right on Willow Village Parkway. An unbeatable location and unbelievable amenities make this community truly special. Now is the time to find your perfect home! Take advantage of special introductory pricing and have your choice of the best homesites!
from the staff Meet OUr CONtrIBUtOrS
| 38 | Seed tO taBLe
|8|
frOM the PUBLISher
Farmer Crystal Stevens shares how to forage for wild greens to make flaky spanakopita.
Spring cleaning.
|9|
dIgItaL CONteNt
What’s online this month.
| 10 |
feaSt tv
The Groves at Willowbrooke by Payne Family Homes From the $260s • 1,302 – 3,186 square feet | 13 |
DINe We’re dining at a new Mexicaninspired gastropub in the St. Louis area, a barbecue restaurant with an impressive outdoor patio in Kansas City and an authentic Polish eatery in Columbia, Missouri. In our monthly travel piece, Road Trip, writer Amy Lynch travels to Columbus, Ohio, and shares where to dine, drink and stay during the city’s St. Patrick’s Day festivities this month. We also examine how chefs across the region are working with fermented foods, from smoked chile kimchi to housemade kefir, in this month’s On Trend piece.
314-220-2861 www.paynefamilyhomes.com
The Manors at Willowbrooke by Consort Homes From the $310s • 1,870 – 3,325 square feet
| 21 |
DrINK We’re sipping globally inspired cocktails in Kansas City and Columbia, Missouri, and flat whites in the St. Louis area. We also catch up with one of the owners of Peel Brewing Co., a new brewery in O’Fallon, Illinois, and a bartender in Smithville, Missouri.
314-220-3794 www.consort-homes.com
The Estates at Willowbrooke by McKelvey Homes From the $300s • 2,470 – 4,015 square feet | 29 |
www.mckelveyhomes.com
To sign up for the interest list visit 4
feastmagazine.com
MARCH 2015
www.LiveAtWillowbrooke.com
cooK
|7|
A peek at the March episode.
636-379-6880
| 37 |
shoP We visit two regional shops – a new natural foods store in Fairview Heights, Illinois, and a market-meets-café in Kansas City. Find out what inspired the newly opened The Terrazza at Lidia’s Kansas City, and learn what goes into the fromscratch bars made by Irene’s Granola in Kirkwood, Missouri.
| 40 | MyStery ShOPPer Buy it and try it: amaranth leaves.
| 42 | MeNU OPtIONS Learn how to make hearty porchetta-style roast pork.
| 44 | Sweet IdeaS Paying homage to St. Patrick, pastry chef Christy Augustin shares how to make oatmeal stout tea cakes at home.
COVER PHOTOGRAPHY OF SIGnATuRE DISHES (P. 55) BY Zach Bauman, Travis Duncan AnD Jonathan Gayman. TABLE OF COnTEnTS PHOTO OF InGREDIEnTS AT THE CuLInARY InSTITuTE OF ST. LOuIS AT HICKEY COLLEGE (P. 48) BY Jennifer Silverberg.
FEATURES
48 55
toque of the town The Culinary Institute of St. Louis at Hickey College is brightening the future for its students and the restaurant industry.
Chefs on the Brink DOUBLE FEATURE: Meet 12 up-
and-coming regional chefs who put their all on the line.
The Art of
Entertaining Join Feast Magazine for an open house party at
The Villages of Willowbrooke Behind the Jewish Community Center
1503 Willowbrooke Manors Ct., St. Louis MO 63146 | 314-220-2861
Saturday, March 28th 1:00 – 4:00 Come experience one of St. Louis’ newest communities in the highly desirable area of Creve Coeur. With three of the area’s most prominent home builders, McKelvey, Consort, and Payne Family Homes, Feast Magazine is hosting a cocktail party, so you can enjoy life inside a Willowbrooke home. Enjoy an hors d’oeuvre buffet with spirit and beer pairings
72
By the [Cook]Book Learn how Kansas City chefs Colby and Megan Garrelts translated Rye from plate to page in their latest cookbook, Made in America.
Try one of The feaTured recipeS being SerVed! Recipe courtesy of Butler’s Pantry
on the BloCk
77
In the past decade, wholeanimal butcher shops have seen a renewed interest in their work, as well as new customers, many of them restaurant chefs – including a few who have opened butcher shops of their own.
Buffalo Chicken and Bacon Potato Skins 8 medium Idaho potatoes ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil Coarse sea salt or kosher salt 2 cups diced grilled, roasted or poached chicken, white or dark meat ½ cup Franks RedHot Buffalo Wing Sauce Freshly cracked black pepper ½ cup crumbled blue cheese ½ cup chopped, cooked bacon ¼ cup snipped chives ¼ cup finely diced celery 2 stalks celery
-Preheat oven to 425 degrees. -Pierce each potato several times with a fork, then rub with olive oil and sprinkle generously with salt. Place on pan and bake until the skins are crisp and the inside is soft, about 45 minutes. -Allow potatoes to cool and adjust oven to broil. -Toss chicken with hot sauce. -Slice each potato lengthwise and scoop out most of the flesh, leaving approx. ¼-inch. Brush insides of potatoes with remaining olive oil, season generously with salt and pepper, return to baking sheet, then cook until crisp. Turn over and continue to crisp the skins. -Remove skins from the broiler and proceed to fill with chicken, blue cheese and bacon. Return to the broiler until cheese melts and chicken is hot. Garnish each potato skin with chopped chives and diced celery. Serve immediately with celery "feathers." To make, shave celery stalks lengthwise with a vegetable peeler, place in ice water and they will curl and crisp, hold in water until ready to garnish.
Inspired Local Food Culture
MARCH 2015
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Magazine Volume 6
| Issue 3 | March 2015
Publisher Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com Director of Sales Angie Henshaw ahenshaw@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1298 EDITORIAL Senior Editor Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com Director of Digital Content Sarah Fenske, sfenske@feastmagazine.com Assistant Editor Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com Assistant Digital Editor Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor Jenny Vergara Editorial Assistants Tessa Miller (Kansas City), Alex Wilking (St. Louis) Proofreader Christine Wilmes
Spring Savings
Contributing Writers Christy Augustin, Shannon Cothran, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pete Dulin, Caitlyn Gallip, Margaret Hair, Kyle Harsha, Valeria Turturro Klamm, Amy Lynch, Stacy McCann, Brandon and Ryan Nickelson, Ryan Sciara, Matt Seiter, Matt Sorrell, Crystal Stevens, Shannon Weber
sale
ART Art Director Lisa Allen, art@feastmagazine.com Assistant Art Director Alexandrea Doyle, adoyle@feastmagazine.com Contributing Photographers Zach Bauman, Travis Duncan, Jonathan Gayman, Emily Suzanne McDonald, J. Pollack Photography, Jennifer Silverberg, Alistair Tutton, Landon Vonderschmidt, Cheryl Waller FEAST TV
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producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Judd Demaline of Graine Films
COnTACT US Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor, St. Louis, MO 63101 314.475.1244, feastmagazine.com DISTRIbUTIOn To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Bill Morlock at bmorlock@stldist.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2015 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC
ContrIbutors
03.15 zach bauman
Kansas City, Photographer Zach grew up in small-town Kansas but has called Kansas City home for nearly five years. His photography can be seen in a variety of different publications and ranges from food photography to concert photography and everything in between. When not out shooting a concert or dining around Kansas City, he is probably at home listening to records and possibly drinking some whiskey. If you care to keep up on his work you can check out his Twitter at @zachbphotograph.
valeria turturro klamm St. Louis, Writer Valeria Turturro Klamm is a marketing coordinator by day and freelance writer by night. Food has always been a passion of hers from growing up in an Italian family with a mom who cooked every night and showed her what it means to care for and connect with others through food. She also learned that a simple plate of pasta and a healthy serving of gelato goes a long way on any occasion. Since graduating from the Missouri School of Journalism, she has dedicated her writing to food culture, art and business. A transplant to St. Louis, she’s constantly amazed at the diverse and close-knit food community there is in the city and the state. She loves being able to share the stories of the men and women behind the dishes and drinks that bring us around tables day after day.
amy lynch Indianapolis, Indiana, Writer Amy Lynch is an Indianapolis-based freelance writer who enjoys traveling, cooking at home, trying new restaurants and drinking good bourbon. A few of her recent Midwestern food discoveries include Tulip Tree Creamery’s cultured butter in Indianapolis; Katzinger’s Delicatessen’s garlic pickles in Columbus, Ohio; fried chicken with cayenne honey at The Eagle in Cincinnati; and anything from Publican Quality Meats in Chicago. Amy’s work has appeared in Indianapolis Monthly, Cincinnati Magazine, Midwest Living, Draft and the Chicago Tribune.
jonathan gayman St. Louis, Photographer Jonathan Gayman is a commercial photographer based in St. Louis with a focus on food, beverage and product photography. His keen eye for light and composition fuel thoughtful and inspired photography, whether he is shooting in St. Louis, Chicago, New York or on location around the country. Jonathan is a regular contributor to many food publications including Feast, and his work has appeared in national and global publications including advertisements, marketing materials and annual reports for some of the nation’s top businesses. For more than eight years, Jonathan has been bringing his unique photographic perspective to clients all over the country.
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Inspired Local Food Culture
MARCH 2015
7
publisher’s letter
FeAst eVeNts
here at feast, we are always looking for ways to make the magazine better – more informative and
stl
Mon., Feb. 23 through Sun., Mar. 1; Ballpark Village; stlballparkvillage.com
Enjoy $10 to $15 lunch and $25 to $35 dinner menus at select Downtown St. Louis restaurants. stl
$35; kmox.com/food-fight
Some of St. Louis’ top chefs battle it out in the kitchen during the first round of this secondannual competition. Guests will have the opportunity to sample specialty dishes from each participating chef. stl
St. Louis, camstl.org/feast
In partnership with the talented team at Winslow’s Home, CAM and Feast present a tour of the museum followed by an intimate four-course meal inspired by the exhibitions.
months ago, we sat down and took a look at the stl
Drink and Shop, our front-
314.361.1060
Dressel’s Public House, Cleveland-Heath and 4 Hands Brewing Co. team up to host a five-course dinner in which each course is paired with one of the brewery’s barrel-aged beers.
magazine.
stl
as part of our increased coverage, and now it was time to take another
Enjoy a four-course prix fixe menu with wine pairings by in-house sommelier Denise Mueller during this series of Thursday night dinners.
Doyle got to work on a refreshed design while Liz Miller, Bethany We’ve brightened things up and organized content so related pieces
MO
Witness a culinary battle as chefs from various Lake of the Ozarks-area restaurants compete for “Best Chef at the Lake.” Proceeds benefit the Tri-County YMCA.
Dining. I’m very happy with the result, and I hope you are, as well.
food section in February. Our inspired mix of culinary content is now
6th Annual silver Cup Chefs Challenge Sat., March 14; Seven Springs Winery; sevenspringswinery.com
are grouped together around themes, like On Trend and Where We’re
Also, I am thrilled to announce that we debuted a syndicated newspaper
slow Down and indulge Dinner series Thu., March 12 and Thu., March 26, 5:30pm; The Dark Room; $49; thedarkroomstl.com
look and retool our approach. Assistant art director Alexandrea Christo and I talked about ways to tweak the editorial side of things.
4 hands Collaboration series beer Dinner with Cleveland-heath Wed., March 11, 7pm; Dressel’s Public House; $70;
of-book sections in the
When we expanded in October, we created this new content division
Feast Your eyes Tue., March 10, 6:30pm; Contemporary Art Museum
our readers. So, a couple of
In this month’s episode of Feast TV, I show you how to make Port Fonda’s chilaquiles, inspired by my visit with chefs Patrick Ryan and David Ford in Kansas City.
KMOX Food Fight Thu., March 5, 6:30 to 9:30pm; Hollywood Casino;
more enjoyable, for you,
design and flow of Dine,
stadium District restaurant Week
stl
schnucks Cooks: porchetta-style roast pork Wed., March 18, 6 to 9pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School; $40; schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704
being delivered each week to readers in Tucson, Arizona, and Billings,
Join us in the kitchen and learn how to make roasted porchetta, oven-roasted caramelized onions, fried goat cheese salad with grapes and hazelnuts, a Swiss chard-potato frittata and St. Joseph’s Day fritters.
Montana, with other markets launching soon. Spreading the good word about good food is our mission, and with this new format, we are reaching an entirely new audience in an exciting new way. stl
Feast Feasts Thu., March 26, 6 or 9pm; Evangeline’s Bistro; $40; 314.367.3644
Until next time,
Enjoy an exclusive four-course dinner featuring dishes like olive muffaletta bruschetta and fried Creole boudin balls paired with cocktails featuring Kilbeggan Distilling Co. whiskey. stl
6th Annual Maplewood Coffee Crawl Sat., March 28, 8am to 1pm; Downtown Maplewood, Missouri; $10; cityofmaplewood.com/coffee
Catherine Neville
Stroll through Historic Downtown Maplewood, meet regional coffee roasters and sample coffees from around the world with a local flavor. stl
Cat’s picks Wednesdays, 8:35am; The BIG 550 KTRS
Tune in as Feast publisher Catherine Neville chats with host McGraw Milhaven and gives her weekly picks for the best places to eat and drink in the St. Louis area.
publisher@feastmagazine.com
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feastmagazine.com
MARCH 2015
@cat_neville
@cat_neville
DIGITAL CONTENT
hungry for more?
feastmagazine.com
connect with us daily:
onLInE ExTRA In this month’s Dine section, writer Pete Dulin sits down with chefpartner Howard Hanna, who opened The Rieger Hotel Grill & Exchange in Kansas City in December 2010 (p. 15). Visit feastmagazine.com for the full interview with the celebrated chef, who was named a semifinalist for the James Beard Award’s Best Chef: Midwest category in February.
FACEbook. See where we’re dining across the region (like Kitchen Kulture’s pop-up meals at Local Harvest Cafe in St. Louis) at facebook.com/feastmag.
TWITTER. Follow @feastmag to check out behind-
the-scenes photos from our recent Feast TV shoots (like at Port Fonda in Kansas City).
PHOTOGRAPHy By JennIFeR SILveRBeRG PHOTOGRAPHy By CAITLIn CORCORAn
PHOTOGRAPHy By ALISTAIR TuTTOn
PInTEREST. Find brunch recipes, like ginger-lemon panna cotta with berries, on our Delightful Brunch Dishes board at pinterest.com/feastmag.
THE FEED: Keep up with what’s happening in the region’s food-and-drink scene by visiting our daily news blog, The Feed,
at feastmagazine.com/the-feed. Recently, we shared our favorite St. Louis fish frys; the best taquerias in Kansas City, Kansas; and announced the March 5 opening of the Strange Donuts-Seoul Taco joint venture in Columbia, Missouri. SPECIAL GIVEAWAY: Win a pair of tickets to the Slow Down and Indulge dinner series at The Dark Room on Thu., March 12
InSTAGRAm. Hashtag your local food-and-drink photos with #feastgram for a chance to see them in Feast! Details on p. 82.
Watch our videos and Feast TV.
youtube.com/FeastMagazine
or Thu., March 26. Just head to the Promotions section at feastmagazine.com for all the details.
Inspired Local Food Culture
MARCH 2015
9
FEAST TV
TV
Look for the Feast TV splat throughout the magazine. It tells you which articles are part of this month’s episode! At the Culinary Institute of St. Louis at Hickey College, founding program director Chris Desens applies a 360-degree approach to culinary education. Turn to p. 48 and watch the March episode of Feast tV to learn more.
watch this month’s episode to:
Segment 1: learn to chop, slice and dice with culinary students as we go behind the scenes at the Culinary institute of St. louis.
Segment 2: Spend a night on the line with one of Kansas City’s up-and-comers, David ford of Port fonda, who is about to strike out on his own.
PHOTOGRAPHy by JennifeR SilveRbeRG
Segment 3: Head to butchery in ladue, Missouri, to learn the secrets behind the craft of butchering and hear why it’s making such a huge comeback.
Segment 4: Take a sip at Sycamore in Columbia, Missouri, where bartender Aaron Rostad is crafting cocktails to pair with the restaurant’s fresh fare.
feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:
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MARCH 2015
Missouri Wines
Whole Foods Market
in March, reach for a bottle of les bourgeois vineyards’ brut sparkling wine. Feast TV producer Catherine neville pairs it with red and green salsa and a recipe for chilaquiles from Port fonda in Kansas City.
Get cooking at home! Pick up the recipes and ingredients from Catherine neville’s March Feast TV demo at the brentwood and Town and Country locations of Whole foods Market in the St. louis area.
WATCH FEAST ON THESE NETWORKS
In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to see Feast TV on Sat., March 7 at 2pm and Mon., March 9 at 1pm. Feast TV will also air throughout the month on nineCREATE.
In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) on Sat., March 21 at 2:30pm.
You can watch Feast TV throughout midMissouri on KMOS (Channel 6) on Thu., March 26 at 8:30pm and on Sun., March 29 at 6:30pm.
Feast TV will air in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) at 10am on Sat., March 21.
Inspired Local Food Culture
MARCH 2015
11
Countr y Club Plaza, Kansas City
S O M E T I M E S YO U ’R E T H E O N LY T W O P E O P L E I N T H E T H E AT E R OT H E R T I M E S I T J U S T F E E L S T H AT WAY. From award-winning wineries to nightlife fit for the stars, the stage is set for romance in the Show-Me State. Enjoy the togetherness.
Plan your getaway at VisitMO.com 12
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MARCH 2015
–
must-try dish
bite into this brat on p. 19 photography by emily suzanne mcdonald
trending now: fermented foods
on trend
WrITTen by beThAny ChrIsTo, LIz MILLer And ALex WILkIng
Yogurt, pickles and soy sauce are common ingredients, but kefir and kimchi are more rarely seen – though maybe not for long – as restaurant chefs are focusing more attention on making fermented foods in-house.
KC
smoked
chile kimchi kansas City. If you were to order almost
any sandwich or salad at Happy Gillis Cafe & Hangout, chef and co-owner Josh eans says it’s likely to come with something pickled or fermented. The cafe’s pulled pork sandwich is served with a smoked chile kimchi, made with smoked and dried local chiles and korean chiles brined overnight with a mixture of cabbage, salt and sugar. on the sandwich, the kimchi is combined with slow-cooked pork shoulder and a miso-lime aïoli spread on ciabatta bread. “kimchi is kind of the perfect condiment: It’s salty, sweet, spicy and sour, plus [it has] great texture,” eans says. –B.C. Happy Gillis Cafe & Hangout, 549 Gillis St., Columbus Park, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.471.3663, happygillis.com PhoTogrAPhy by LAndon vondersChMIdT
Smoked Chile Kimchi Yields | 3 quarts | 10 8 8 11/3 1 1½ ½
PhoTogrAPhy by MATT LArIson
il
pickled eggs
sPringfield, il. At American Harvest Eatery, executive
chefs Jordan and Aurora Coffey are always pickling or fermenting ingredients for their seasonal menus. This winter, the farm-to-table restaurant served a dish of crispy oysters with horseradish aïoli, herbs and pickled eggs made with a traditional sweet-and-sour pickle brine. –L.M. American Harvest Eatery, 3241 W. Iles Ave., Springfield, Illinois, 217.546.8300, americanharvesteatery.com
PhoTogrAPhy by JuLIA knArr
Stl
kefir grains
st. louis. At Local Harvest Cafe & Catering , kefir is made
with local, hormone-free milk and kefir “grains” fermented in-house. The cafe’s kefir appears in new brunch dishes like chicken and blue cheese salad with kefir dressing and housemade berry kefir with granola. The café also recently began making kefir soda made with water kefir grains. –A.W. Local Harvest Cafe & Catering, 3137 Morgan Ford Road, Tower Grove South, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.772.8815, localharvestcafe.com
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1 1 3 2 2
lbs chopped Napa cabbage Tbsp kosher salt Tbsp plus 2 cups sugar cups peeled garlic cloves cup peeled and sliced ginger cups coarse ground Korean chiles cup smoked chiles,* deseeded and finely ground cup fish sauce cup soy sauce Tbsp jarred shrimp, left whole cups scallions, greens only, cut into 1-inch strips cups peeled and grated carrots
* You can substitute smoked chiles with dried chipotle chiles.
| Preparation | In a large bowl, combine cabbage, salt and 8 Tbsp sugar and mix well. Cover and place in the refrigerator overnight. After mixture has set overnight, drain excess moisture. In the bowl of a food processor, add remaining sugar, garlic, ginger, chiles, fish sauce and soy sauce and process to combine until mixture is finely ground. Pour mixture over the bowl with the cabbage and add jarred shrimp, scallions and carrots. Mix well until evenly incorporated. Cover and refrigerate for at least 7 days before serving.
CHef tiP Josh Eans of Happy Gillis Cafe & Hangout says his recipe for kimchi yields the best result if the final product is allowed to ferment for two weeks. “The longer you let it go, the more intense the flavor will be, and the more sour and acidic it will become,” Eans says.
one on one
PRE-SEASON
KC
SPECIAL ORDER
howard hanna
SALE
chef-partner, the rieger hotel grill & exchange and Ça va Written by Pete Dulin KANSAS CITY. Chef-partner Howard Hanna opened The Rieger Hotel Grill & Exchange in December 2010 and sparkling wine bar Ça Va in February 2014. the rieger takes its name from the building’s original owner, Alexander rieger, the son of Jacob rieger, who founded J. rieger & Co. whiskey company in 1887. At the restaurant, Hanna’s cuisine draws from the seasons, sourcing ingredients from local farmers and butchers. in February, the James beard Foundation nominated Hanna as a semifinalist for best Chef: Midwest in the 2015 James beard Awards.
Visit feastmagazine.com to read Pete Dulin’s full interview with Howard Hanna. The Rieger Hotel Grill & Exchange, 1924 Main St., Crossroads Arts District, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.471.2177, theriegerkc.com
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How has the cuisine at The Rieger evolved since the restaurant opened? People assume a chef has a dream restaurant in mind before opening a place. A restaurant is a living thing. i couldn’t write a menu until i had the place. it depends on the block, the neighborhood, the staff and who shows up to eat. it’s all for them. i could “church up” food or go with more rustic, bold flavor, but it’s food i like and believe in. On the opening menu, some dishes were too fancy. it took a year for our groove to go up and down, then we settled in to say, “this is rieger food.” How does technique tie into menu development and dish preparation? We’re well-groomed in classic techniques. technology doesn’t matter. it’s about ingredients and flavor. in [the] fall, i braise, stew and fricassée, but keep it lighter. Winter is full bore to get deep, rich, hearty flavor. even in the summer, there’s demand for braised foods like our rieger pork soup. if it sells, i keep it on the menu. We change the menu four times a year, and it’s a small menu. We have lots of regulars, so i want to offer an interesting range of technique, color, flavor and texture. As chef-partner, what else does your job entail outside of the kitchen? it makes me happy to touch, eat and create food, but it’s not the only thing. i want to be more holistic. the menu should make sense with the wine list, the music, what servers wear and the smell of food off the grill. We’re not there yet, but we’re good. the focus here is to make people feel good. If an out-of-town guest comes to The Rieger, what do you want them to experience? i tell my cooks to think about what it means for someone to make a reservation three weeks in advance. that’s a huge amount of trust for someone to plan [his or her] travel, birthday or anniversary around that reservation. When people are down, i want us to bring them up. When people are up, i want them to celebrate with us. March is sort of the edge of winter and spring; how does the menu at The Rieger bridge the seasons this time of year? For a restaurant that takes pride in featuring local products, the pantry seems pretty bare by late winter. Although everyone starts craving asparagus, morels and berries as soon as we have a couple warmer days, the local crops aren’t ready in March. Some of our farmers get a jump on things by starting plants early in greenhouses and hoop houses, and we usually still have preserved or pickled products that we put up during the last growing season, but a lot of our menu items steer toward braised meat, potatoes and other root vegetables. this is the perfect way to cook in the hardest part of winter when everyone craves rich, hearty comfort foods, but as spring gets closer, we try to lighten it up. We’ll braise things with white wine and lighter stocks, and add citrus, herbs, chiles and other flavors that can make even a stewed or braised dish seem brighter and fresher. it’s amazing how a little acid and a lot of fresh, green, herbal flavors can really wake up a braise and get us ready to transition into spring.
Inspired Local Food Culture
MARCH 2015
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where we’re dining From new restaurants to renewed restaurant menus, our staff and contributors share their picks for where we’re dining across the region this month. Como
PhOtOGrAPhy by trAviS DunCAn
“We don’t CHAnge AnytHing oR Adjust to tHe AMeRiCAn tAste. you CAn eAt exACtly tHe sAMe pierogies oR golabki in Any toWn in PolAnd.” –rObert burlinSki, CAFé POlAnD
char bar PhOtOGrAPhy by j. POllACk PhOtOGrAPhy
stl
público written by liz miller
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Público, 6679 Delmar Blvd., Delmar Loop, University City, Missouri, publicostl.com
written by CAitlyn GAlliP COLUMBIA, MO. nestled in a tiny building on
locust Street in Columbia, missouri, Café Poland focuses on no-fuss presentation and traditional recipes from the owners’ native Poland. mother-and-son duo iwona Galijska and robert burlinski opened the café in january 2013; Galijska is the head chef and burlinski assists on the business side, taking care of the small 20-person dining room. the tidy menu features dishes such as pierogies, stuffed cabbage, a drinkable red beetroot borscht served in coffee cups and bigos, a stew of sauerkraut, fresh cabbage, beef, pork and sausage. “we don’t change anything or adjust to the American taste,” burlinski says. “you can eat exactly the same pierogies or golabki in any town in Poland.” burlinkski and his mother take great pride in the food they serve, which he says is made from scratch and never includes premade sauces or substitutions, and they love listening to customers’ stories and sharing their culture and heritage with others through conversation, or simply through their food. Café Poland, 807 Locust St., Downtown, Columbia, Missouri, 573.874.8929
KC
smoked meats & amusements written by jenny verGArA KANSAS CITY. Char Bar Smoked Meats &
Amusements is what you get when you cross the experience of kansas City beer-loving restaurateurs james westphal and mark kelpe, founders of mcCoy’s Public house, the Foundry and beer kitchen, with the delicious smoked meats and barbecue sauces of award-winning pitmaster mitch benjamin – or as his friends call him, “meat mitch.” Char bar opened in november, offering a lively and playful atmosphere and food and drink menus focused around barbecue, craft beer and whiskey. in February, the restaurant began serving brunch, and its 10,000-square-foot outdoor space is slated to open this month. in addition to Char bar’s smoked meat trays, the restaurant also serves vegetarian fare like the jackknife, a sandwich topped with smoked jackfruit, melted Provolone, avocado slices and fried jalapeños on an egg bun. Start your meal with fried green tomatoes or smoked trout dip, or opt for the true kansas City experience with the burnt heaven sandwich, with burnt ends and smoked sausage. Char Bar Smoked Meats & Amusements, 4050 Pennsylvania Ave., Westport, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.389.8600, charbarkc.com
PhOtOGrAPhy by lAnDOn vOnDerSChmiDt
UNIVERSITY CITY, MO. Público, the longawaited, much-anticipated mexican- and latin American-inspired gastropub from St. louis restaurateur mike randolph, is slated to open this month in the Delmar loop. located near randolph’s neapolitan pizzeria the Good Pie, the menu at Público is concentrated on five categories: crudo; botanas, or snacks; tacos; arepas, or leavened corn cakes; and a la parrilla, or grilled entrées, with many ingredients prepared in the restaurant’s custom-made wood-burning hearth. Standout botanas range from grilled baby octopus with green olive mojo and country ham to beets three
ways (roasted, pickled and raw) with white chocolate mole. tacos are made with fromscratch corn or flour tortillas, with fillings like marinated pork shoulder, roasted pineapple, guajillo chiles and charred onion salsa, while arepas are topped with ingredients like avocado, queso fresco, avocado salsa and cilantro. if you can’t slide into one the restaurant’s sleek, spacious booths for a long stay, snag a seat at the glossy wooden bar and order one of Público’s house cocktails – we suggest the blown a wish with mezcal, Cointreau, cherry liqueur, vermouth and hibiscus liqueur, or the night on Fire with el Dorado 12 year Old rum, Creole shrubb, Angostura and Peychaud’s bitters and cava.
café poland
MUST-TRY DISH
Ks
haemul pajeon writtEn by JEnny VErgara oVeRLAnD PARK, KS. Spring onions are the hero in haemul pajeon, the thin Korean crêpe made with seafood at Chosun’s Korean bbQ in overland park, Kansas. this appetizer is speckled with scallions, oysters, shrimp and squid, and is meant for sharing.
Chosun’s Korean bbQ, 12611 Metcalf ave., overland Park, Kansas, 913.339.9644, chosunkoreanbbqkc.com photography by lanDon VonDErSchmiDt
one on one
stl
peter kolich
director of food service, st. patrick center written by bethany Christo st. louis. the st. Patrick Center opened
in Downtown st. Louis 32 years ago as a hands-on training program for hundreds of people who are homeless or at risk of becoming homeless. today, thousands of clients successfully move through its various programs. each year, 50 or so clients take a one to six-month food industry course through its on-site breakfast-and-lunch restaurant, McMurphy’s Café, which opened inside the st. Patrick Center in september under new director of food service Peter Kolich.
McMurphy’s Café, 800 N. tucker Blvd., Downtown, st. louis, Missouri, 314.802.5428, mcmurphyscafe.com
grilled pizza
| sandwiches | soups & salads
MONDAY - SATURDAY 11:00 AM to 8:00 PM 7600 Wydown Blvd St. Louis, Missouri 63105
photography by Emily SuzannE mcDonalD
How did McMurphy’s Café come about? the original McMurphy’s Grill was a sit-down restaurant [that] started 20 years ago, and it was primarily training first, restaurant second. we sold that spot and were able to use the money to open McMurphy’s Café. when i walked in, they had the shell of the space designed, but i decided what kind of menu we were going to have and [expanded] the training program’s potential. How have you expanded the training program? before, each class would move through a series of stations that taught the steps of working at a restaurant. but not everyone is capable of doing everything in food service, and now we don’t have a set starting or exit time. it’s dictated by the clients and their aspirations – this way, they become proficient at whatever it is they want to do. a good starting place is the production kitchen; others don’t really want to cook but do enjoy working the register – handling money and dealing with customers. What types of training do clients receive? there’s no food industry [position] that we can’t train a client for: we have the shamrock Club [Day treatment Program] where we serve hot breakfast and lunch 365 days a year to hundreds of people [in need]. that’s more cafeteria-style, so clients could apply to places like hospital and school [kitchens]. on our fifth floor, we have banquet facilities, so we also teach catering. Any new projects in the works? we’re finishing a cookbook with McMurphy’s Café recipes and full-color photos to hit stands this month. we’re also going to be curating more dynamic spring and summer menus with our City seeds Urban Farm [a partnership with other area organizations that teach urban-farming skills]. i like to make everything from scratch, but also, every time we make something in-house as opposed to opening a jar, it’s a learning experience. My dream is to one day have relationships with businesses that give us a call when they need an employee, and we can find a person for them.
pizzinostl.com (314) 240- 5134
Join Us For Happy Hour Mon.-Fri. 4pm-7pm 1/2 Price Appetizers & Drink Specials
Lunch Has Returned! Tues-Sat 11am-2pm
314-241-1000
Dinner Hours: 5pm-10pm Mon-Sat
1000 Washington Ave., St. Louis, MO 63101 Inspired Local Food Culture
MARCH 2015
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destination: columbus, ohio
road trip
WrITTeN BY AMY LYNCH
The luck o’ the Irish is alive and well in Columbus, Ohio, making the state’s capital city a fun-filled destination for St. Patrick’s Day. Established in 1936, the Shamrock Club of Columbus sponsors annual festivities including a parade and an “Irish family reunion.” Other celebrations throughout the area start earlier in the day with a kegs and eggs breakfast at Claddagh Irish Pub and the Flannagan’s Pub 5K, continuing well into the night with live music, dancing and plenty of green beer.
sleep
Le Meridien Columbus, The Joseph This sexy boutique hotel opened in January, delivering a dose of upscale luxury to the vibrant Short North Arts District. The Le Meridien boasts 135 guest accommodations accented by a nearby partner art gallery and a stunning selection of additional works scattered throughout the property (thanks to a partnership with the Pizzuti Collection). The Guild House, a Cameron Mitchellowned restaurant, and a menu of spa services elevate the experience of staying here.
eat
local gems
Satisfy your Mexican-food fix with huevos rancheros, the slow-roasted Mazatlan pork and egg sandwich, and the modest-yet-memorable bean soup. For breakfast, you can’t do any better than the from-scratch pancake “balls” filled with Nutella, dulce de leche and seasonal preserves, along with a side of spicy-sweet bacon.
The éclairs, croissants, tortes and tarts at this charming French bakery will have your taste buds thinking they’ve died and gone to Paris. For a sweet, edible souvenir, fill a box for the road with exquisite pastries and pretty-as-a-picture macarons. You’ll be lucky if you have anything left by the time you get home.
Katalina’s
1105 Pennsylvania Ave., 614.294.2233, katalinascolumbus.com
Basi Italia For a romantic dinner, head to Basi Italia in the Victorian Village neighborhood. The savory biscotti is a creative play on the standard bread basket, and it pairs well with the restaurant’s handcrafted cocktails amid a well-edited menu that highlights fish, seasonal salads and desserts. The signature eggplant Parmesan, an updated assembly of noodles, pesto and eggplant with sweet tomato sauce, is definitely “chow” bella.
620 N. High St., 614.227.0100, lemeridiencolumbus.com
Hilton Columbus Downtown This contemporary-chic Hilton boasts 150 original works by artists who either have lived or currently reside in central Ohio. A spiral staircase ushers guests into an airy atrium, and you’ll want to make time to marvel at Christian Faur’s Ohio skyline mural composed of 30,000 crayons. A well-sited Downtown location puts this property within convenient walking distance of more than 300 restaurants and entertainment destinations. If the weather’s nice, you can even borrow a bike. 401 N. High St., 614.384.8600, hiltoncolumbusdowntown.com
Pistacia Vera
Fox in the Snow
811 Highland St., 614.294.7383, basi-italia.com PHOTO COURTESY OF bASi iTAliA
The lack of signage and a phone number have kept this mod café flying under the radar since its mid-October opening in Italian Village. Fox in the Snow is worth seeking out for breakfast fare like its custard-filled yeast donuts, egg soufflé sandwiches with caramelized bacon and Dijon sauce, and a flaky blueberry hand pie that calls to mind postmodern Pop-Tarts. Go early: The place sells out fast.
Columbus Food Adventures Tours
1031 N. Fourth St., facebook.com/foxinthesnowcafe PHOTO COURTESY OF ExPERiENCE COlUMbUS
Gallerie Bar & Bistro Located inside the Hilton Columbus Downtown, Gallerie Bar & Bistro displays work by local artists on its walls, providing an imaginative backdrop for its sophisticated bistro fare. The menu of French-inspired dishes includes frog legs, puffy Gruyère gougères, steamed mussels, steak frites, charcuterie and cheeses.
The German Village Guest House Staying in this stylish historic abode feels like house-sitting for a friend who has great taste and welcomes you with fresh-baked cookies. If you’re looking for a full kitchen and all the comforts of home, the Whittier Suites essentially offer fully furnished apartments. Continental breakfast is part of the package, and the gorgeous backyard garden proves a perfect perch for sipping a glass of wine. 748 Jaeger St., 614.437.9712, gvguesthouse.com PHOTO COURTESY OF Ed ElbERFEld
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541 S. Third St., German Village, 614.220.9070; 59 Spruce St., North Market, 614.221.1001; pistaciavera.com
Columbus Food Adventures offers 11 tasty guided itineraries through some of the city’s most notable food scenes, including excursions that focus exclusively on geographic districts, food trucks, coffee, brunch, ethnic eats and desserts. Sure, you’ll overindulge, but take heart in knowing you’ll walk off (some) calories in between stops. 614.440.3177, columbusfoodadventures.com PHOTO COURTESY OF MikE bEAUMONT
401 N. High St., 614.484.5287, galleriebarandbistro.com
Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams A Columbus institution since 2002, Jeni’s scoops up cups and cones of ice creams and sorbets in creative flavors like Bangkok Peanut, goat cheese with cherries, salty caramel and wildberry lavender. Jeni’s has seven locations spread across the Midwest and South, and will celebrate the opening of its first St. Louis outpost this spring. Various locations, jenis.com PHOTO COURTESY OF JENi’S SPlENdid iCE CREAMS
PHOTO COURTESY OF JOdi MillER
Thurn’s Specialty Meats, Inc. If all the Irish festivities get a little overwhelming, head over to the German Village district to check out this 130-year-old fourth-generation butcher shop where the quality is high and the prices are low. Smoked sausages, ham, bacon, turkey, salmon, jerky – the gang’s all here. Bring a cooler and hit the ATM first; Thurn’s is cash-only. 530 Greenlawn Ave., 614.443.1449, thurnsmeats.com PHOTO COURTESY OF THURN’S SPECiAlTY MEATS
MUST-TRY DISH
stl
brasserie brats written by Liz MiLLer ST. LOUIS. in January, Brasserie by Niche launched a
series of rotating lunch specials on tuesdays from 11am to 2pm, with the first focused on bratwurst. the French-inspired St. Louis bistro, owned by restaurateur Gerard Craft, has not previously served lunch (though it serves brunch on weekends), giving executive chef nick blue the chance to experiment outside of the scope of the restaurant’s regular menu. So far, brats at brasserie have included a Philly cheesesteak brat, bourbon brat and chili brat, as well as collaborations with local restaurants, including a banh mi brat topped with pig’s head and liver, jalapeños, cucumber, cilantro, pickled daikon and carrots made in partnership with Mai Lee restaurant in brentwood, Missouri. Get one while you can – the kitchen plans to introduce a new lunch special in April. Brasserie by Niche, 4580 Laclede Ave., Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.454.0600, brasseriebyniche.com PhotoGrAPhy by eMiLy SuzAnne MCdonALd
One On One
KC
erik borger
owner, il lazzarone
WrittEN By VALEriA turturro KLAMM kansas city and st. JOsEPH, MO. Kansas
on pizzas just for us. [When i found the space] in St. Joseph, i thought it would be a good gift to the city. What distinguishes a VPn-certified pizza? the texture; the ability to cook it in 90 seconds versus the usual 10 minutes gives it a different flavor. the traditional pizza Margherita has to be produced in a very certain way – it’s made with crushed San Marzano tomatoes from the bottom of Mount Vesuvius topped with basil and mozzarella. there is an almost 50-page law book that we built the restaurant around. the obsessiveness of it all is quite incredible: the sauce goes on clockwise, the exterior and interior of the crust have to be certain thicknesses, the dough must be hand-slapped
into the perfect shape, no dough presses and nothing mechanical is used. the certification process seems fairly strict and time-consuming. Why was getting the certification worth it to you? Just the passion it has. it’s not my creation; it’s not my secret recipe. i’m carrying on something that has hundreds of years of history behind it that is somewhat lost from the rest of the world.
PhotoGrAPhy by zACh bAuMAn
Citians no longer have to drive an hour north of the city to il Lazzarone in St. Joseph, Missouri, for authentic Neapolitan pizza. on March 1, Erik Borger, owner and operator of the pizzeria, opened a second location in the historic river Market area in Kansas City. Borger introduced an expanded menu at the St. Joseph location in January, which is similar to what’s available in the new location, including the popular pesto pizza with cherry tomatoes and sausage, the pepperoni pizza with honey, the classic Margherita and even a Nutella pizza, along with salads, appetizers such as bruschetta and caprese, 20 italian wines and 30 craft beers. Borger is also in the process of gaining certification for the new pizzeria by the American delegation of the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (VPN), just as he did at the original location, which is the only certified pizzeria in Missouri and one of only 11 in the Midwest.
Why did you decide to open a neapolitan pizzeria versus another style? Born and raised in New york, i was always obsessed with pizza, especially New york-style. i was cooking pizza all the time at home and would get onto these forums, trying to learn new things. the Neapolitan guys would fight over things like proper level of hydration. i thought, “these guys are nuts.” i decided to try [Neapolitan pizza the] next time i was in New york. the experience at Motorino in the East Village was incredible. the char [on the crust] was something i’d never experienced; it paired so well with all of the ingredients. When i got back to the Midwest, i was so starved for it. My wife and i went on a 6,000-mile road trip to try 23 different Neapolitan pizzerias; i was so sad that i had to travel so far to get it. i bought an old wood oven and made pizzas for my wife and friends for a few years and thought it was selfish to spend all that time and money
il Lazzarone, 1628 Frederick ave., st. Joseph, Missouri; and 412 delaware st., River Market, kansas city, Missouri, 816.273.0582, illazzarone.org
Inspired Local Food Culture
MARCH 2015
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this little piggy
went to a
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MARCH 2015
the mix
brighten up spring with two classic cocktails on p. 24 PHOTOGRAPHy by jOnATHAn GAymAn
trending now: Smoked CoCktailS
on trend
Written by bethany Christo and Liz MiLLer Photo Courtesy oF brandon CuMMins
Smoked cocktails are catching fire at bars across the country, and evidence suggests that one method for making them was first ignited in Missouri.
KC
smokin’ choke
kanSaS City. ryan Maybee created the smokin’
stl Il
straight fashioned
CHamPaign, il. the only tool required to make smoked cocktails at Big
Grove Tavern in Champaign is creativity – the bar serves its straight Fashioned in a “smoked oak snifter.” the drink was created by one of the head bartenders, ashley Gaytan, who says the first step is placing an oak chip on a nonflammable plate, lighting it on fire and, once a decent flame has formed, placing a snifter over it. While the chip burns, Gaytan says to shake rye whiskey, maraschino liqueur and tiki bitters together in a cocktail shaker. once the oak chip flame goes out, turn the glass upright, strain the cocktail into it and serve with an orange twist. –L.M. Big Grove Tavern, 1 Main St., Downtown, Champaign, Illinois, 217.239.3505, biggrovetavern.com
straight Fashioned reCiPe Courtesy oF biG Grove tavern
Serves | 1 |
2 1 3
oak chip ice oz Journeyman Ravenswood Rye Whiskey oz maraschino liqueur drops Bittermens ‘Elemakule Tiki bitters orange twist (for garnish)
| Preparation | Place oak chip on a nonflammable plate and light on fire. once a decent flame has formed, place snifter upside down over flaming oak chip. While oak chip is smoldering, combine ice, rye whiskey, maraschino liqueur and tiki bitters in a cocktail shaker and shake. once oak chip flame has gone out, place snifter upright and strain cocktail into snifter. Garnish with an orange twist and serve.
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#37
univerSity City, mo. at The Good Pie, bar manager Jeffrey Moll always has one smoked cocktail on the drink menu. the #37 swaps out a few ingredients with the seasons, but the basic recipe and preparation remain the same: Moll places applewood chips inside a Polyscience smoking gun, which is a handheld smoker, and smokes each cocktail to order, with a base recipe of bourbon, big o ginger liqueur and housemade barbecue bitters. this fall, the drink combined those staples with zucca rabarbaro amaro, housemade crème de mûre and white pepper and coriander bitters. Moll says the winter version subs Cappelletti aperitivo americano rosso, beet syrup and a tincture made with rosemary and allspice. –L.M.
The Good Pie, 6665 Delmar Blvd., Delmar Loop, University City, Missouri, 314.899.9221, thegoodpiestl.com
Choke cocktail in late 2008, before opening Manifesto, the Kansas City cocktail lounge beneath the rieger hotel Grill & exchange, the following summer. Maybee, who also co-founded the J.rieger & Co. whiskey distillery, says the drink is meant to pay homage to the city’s famous barbecue scene. “being from Kansas City, i always tell people i can smoke anything, including whiskey,” he says. although smoking cocktails had been done before, Maybee’s method of infusing applewood chip-smoke into a liter of Four roses bourbon using Polyscience’s smoking gun (at the time a new invention) for the base of the cocktail was new – he’s even credited as inventing the technique in the 2011 Annual Manual for Bartenders by Gary regan. Maybee’s recipe hasn’t changed since, with artichoke liqueur, maple syrup and bitters rounding out the cocktail. –B.C. Manifesto, 1924 Main St., Crossroads Arts District, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.536.1325, theriegerkc. com/manifesto
smokin’ Choke reCiPe Courtesy oF ryan Maybee
Serves | 1 | 1 liter plus 2 oz Four Roses bourbon applewood smoking chips 1 eyedropper Cynar 1 barspoon B-grade maple syrup 3 dashes Peychaud’s bitters ice orange twist (for garnish)
| Preparation – smoking Bourbon | Pour bourbon into glass jug, allowing enough space on top for smoke to circulate. Fill the bowl of a Polyscience smoking gun with chips and light. Fill top of jug with smoke, occasionally submerging hose in bourbon until chips are burned through, about 5 minutes. seal and roll bourbon around in jug to further infuse. | Preparation – smokin’ Choke | in a mixing glass, combine bourbon, Cynar, maple syrup and bitters. Fill ¾ with ice and stir until cold. strain into chilled old-fashioned glass with ice. Garnish with orange twist and serve.
Bar tiP Maybee suggests using a light hand when infusing bourbon with smoke. “Subtlety is key,” he says. “You don’t want to dominate the flavor of the spirits or the balance of the cocktail since smoke is such a bold aroma.” He also says to not use smoking chips once they develop a powdery consistency near the bottom of the bag, or your bourbon will have a charcoal-like aroma.
one on one
il
patrick thirion
co-owner, peel wood fired pizza and peel brewing co. Written by bethany Christo O’FALLON, IL. Peel Wood Fired Pizza
co-owners Patrick thirion (pictured left) and brandon Case are chefs first, owners second – and now, brewers third. Peel’s second location opened in o’Fallon in early December, serving the same made-from-scratch 11-inch pizzas as the flagship in edwardsville, illinois, yet it deviates from the original in two distinct ways. First, brewing equipment for Peel Brewing Co. is housed on the second floor of the pizzeria’s historic 1902 building, which includes a seven-barrel system producing six brews. second, thirion and Case have tripled the square footage with the new location, bumping up capacity from 80 (plus 30 on the patio) in edwardsville to 230 in o’Fallon. the new location features more lounge areas for relaxing with a beer and snacks while you wait for a table to open up.
Peel Wood Fired Pizza, 104 S. Cherry St., O’Fallon, Illinois, 618.726.2244; and 921 S. Arbor Vitae #101, Edwardsville, Illinois, 618.659.8561, peelpizza.com
PhotograPhy by jonathan gayman
What’s your background with brewing? both brandon and i have been into homebrewing for a while, but it’s been a learning process for us. We’ve had some help with training on our new system from the company we bought it from, plus we had Jesse rosenberg, a former employee at new york’s brooklyn brewery, help us. really it’s just practice, practice, practice. We went through numerous test batches, and we were prepared to only serve one beer when we opened. Which beers are your best sellers? the cream ale and belgian strong. the cream ale is a bit more popular because it’s our introductory beer: it’s a nice smooth beer with a lower abV than the others. but we got more positive comments about the belgian strong right off the bat – i think beer-drinkers appreciate the flavor. We [introduced] an oatmeal milk stout in our brew schedule, and we’ll continue to change things up. i don’t think we’ll ever be at the capability to have 10 or 12 beers, but we’d like to be able to rotate a couple on top of our four regulars. Why did you want to add a brewery to your second location? the brick outer walls and hardwood floors were part of the original structure, so it was a big open space. We didn’t want to do any type of catering or banquets, even though the space would be beautiful for it; we wanted to be more lounge-oriented and give people a reason to come up here. the hardest part was putting the brewery on the second level – that’s 10 tons of concrete and equipment and beer that has to be supported two floors down in the basement. a smart person would have said no, don’t put a brewery up there. Why did you choose to open in O’Fallon? it was definitely the city first; we’ve been looking at o’Fallon for the past three years. the space was a close second. We knew we didn’t want to be part of the corporate atmosphere off highway 64 nearby. o’Fallon is the second largest city in southern illinois, with a lot of housing, and that really gives the feel of being part of a community. The building has been many things in its 100-plus years – a bank, skating rink, ballroom, shooting range and more. Any challenges during the build out? it’s been a two-year process. We kept the bones, and then everything else we did ourselves. the [construction crew] found pillars and structural support that hadn’t been on architectural plans for 30 years. so they would knock down a wall and be like, “oh that’s there for structure; that has to stay.” so we had to go back and retool the kitchen layout or move pieces of equipment. Any menu changes at the new location? We added two pizzas for this location only, and the sausagejalapeño has been selling really well. We’ve added rotating chef’s selections every Friday – [one week it was] a pine nut-encrusted black grouper with braised fennel and toasted-orzo custard – since we have the kitchen capabilities to introduce new items. our locations are far apart, yes, but they’re still close enough so that they can be unique in their own way.
Inspired Local Food Culture
MARCH 2015
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the mix
Rickey & collins the rickey and the collins – i can’t seem to write about one of these cocktails without including the other. they are too similar to warrant individual attention, and both drinks are refreshing, easily produced and can be modified in various ways to include seasonal flavors. both are made with a simple combination of citrus juice, club soda and one spirit, and both have two classic variations – there’s a Joe rickey (commonly known as the rickey, made with whiskey) and a gin rickey (made with gin) as well as a tom collins (made with old tom gin or London dry gin) and a John collins (made with genever or holland gin). the differences between the rickey and the collins are the preparation methods, the use of simple syrup in the collins and how each drink is served – the rickey is prepared and served in the same glass, while the collins is shaken, strained and then topped with soda water. Rickey. the rickey is named after “colonel” Joe rickey, a democratic
lobbyist from Fulton, Missouri, who lived during the mid-1800s. rickey was a veteran of the confederate army and was known to be a sporting fellow – he enjoyed horse racing, poker and cigar-smoking, as well as instructing bartenders on how to make the drink that bears his name. the precise origin of the drink is consequential, as the colonel, involved in politics right after the war, traveled a great deal, visiting bars in St. Louis, new york and Washington, d.c. bartenders in each of these cities
Story and recipeS by Matt Seiter photography by Jonathan gayMan
lay claim to the drink, but we know it was the colonel who originally taught bartenders how to make it. the drink itself is nothing more than a Keith richard’s dose of whiskey (2 ounces), the juice of half a fresh lime and club soda served in an 8 to 10-ounce glass over ice. no shaking, stirring or fanciness is involved. collins. over the past decade, there’s been a huge amount of debate
and research surrounding the origins of the collins. Who came first, tom or John? What type of gin was originally used? Where did the drink originate? the proven facts are slim, but they do provide some answers. John collins was first on the scene, and the cocktail’s namesake was the head waiter at Limmer’s hotel in London during the 1830s. there is record of americans being very familiar with the drink around the time of the civil War as well. it’s not until the 1870s that we see recipes and references to the tom collins, but here’s the kicker: the only difference between the John and tom collins cocktails is the style of gin used in each drink. the John collins calls for genever, a malty, subtly sweet gin light on juniper. the tom collins uses a type of gin called old tom gin, an english sweetened gin, which, by the 1860s, became the more common gin on the market in the U.S. the gin wasn’t overly cloying, though, with just enough sweetness to take the sharp edge off of the spirit’s dryness. aside from the type of gin used, the recipes are the same.
Rickey serves | 1 | 2 ½ 2 to 4
oz bourbon or rye whiskey oz fresh lime juice oz club soda ice
| Preparation | pour all ingredients into an ice-filled glass, stir briefly with a straw and serve.
Collins serves | 1 | 2 1 ¾ 4 to 6
oz gin oz fresh lemon juice oz simple syrup ice oz club soda lemon peel (for garnish)
| Preparation | in a cocktail shaker, Matt Seiter is co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program, author of The Dive Bar of Cocktails Bars, bartender at BC’s Kitchen and a bar and restaurant consultant.
combine first 3 ingredients and shake well. Strain cocktail into a 12- to 15-ounce ice-filled collins glass. top with club soda, garnish with a lemon peel and stir briefly to incorporate. Serve.
Seasonal Flavors Rickey. Modify the rickey by swapping the bourbon or rye whiskey for another spirit. tequila makes a great rickey – think a dry Margarita. there’s the rum rickey variation, which is a dry and sparkling daiquiri. Scotch also works, as its maltiness and sometimes smoky flavors play well with lime juice. you can also get really creative with the rickey recipe and substitute liqueurs as the base spirit. Since liqueurs contain sugar, this approach can still be considered a rickey because there’s no added sugar in the drink – it just so happens to be an ingredient in the spirit. also, liqueurs will cut the tartness of the lime. i recommend trying the following liqueurs in a rickey: chartreuse (both yellow and green), aperol, St-germain, big o ginger liqueur, amaro Montenegro, Marie brizard white crème de cacao and Lillet blanc or rouge. Collins. the collins is a little easier to modify than the rickey due to the simple syrup used to sweeten it. Syrups are easy to swap out and can hugely alter the flavor of the drink. the simplest route is to infuse simple syrups with fruits or vegetables, or you can get really bold and creative and make syrups with nuts and seeds or use maple or agave syrups or honey. and don’t forget your spice cabinet: try incorporating flavors like cinnamon, clove, cumin, coriander, cayenne, dill, pepper, curry, allspice and anise into syrups to sweeten your next collins.
one on one
mo
drinK deSTinATion: ToPeKA, KAnSAS
arturo vera-felicie
bartender, justus drugstore WRITTen By PeTe DuLIn SMITHVILLE, MO. Arturo Vera-Felicie has tended bar at a progression of
What drew you to Justus Drugstore? It seemed like a perfect marriage between the kitchen and bar with the focus on ingredients and technique. Chef Jonathan Justus actually approached me to work with him before; I just never had the transportation available [until recently] to go to Smithville. The focus at Justus is almost an extreme form of local, seasonal and housemade; the amount of collaboration is pretty intense. It’s funny that I’m in the kitchen as much as the bar now. How do you use specific techniques and ingredients to make signature cocktails? We do a new drink special daily. It gives me a chance to play with the housemade product inventory and try drinks before I put them on the menu. We make crazy bitters, shrubs, cordials, whipped creams, foams and infusions with locally grown produce, stuff we forage and random things that might not have worked in the kitchen. We throw in some booze and see where it takes us. What are your thoughts on the nearby Kansas City bartending and cocktail community? Many people in town don’t really grasp how big a scene we have when it comes to bartending. We have some strong people in our industry that are well-known outside our market. Honestly, here in the [Midwest], cities in our area look to Kansas City and St. Louis more than they look at bigger markets when it comes to inspiration. Overwhelmingly, industry folks from out of town are blown away by our hospitality and friendliness. One thing is clear whenever I go out of town for business: People in this country love Kansas City. What cocktail would you recommend for late winter or early spring? Hot drinks are my thing during the winter season. Hot Toddies and hot buttered drinks are the jam. I have an Irish coffee riff with Applejack and a cross between Hot Buttered Rum and Hot Toddy with Madeira on the menu now until spring rolls around. What inspires you to incorporate nontraditional ingredients into your cocktails? At Justus Drugstore, they basically hand you bushels of [nontraditional] ingredients and say, “Make something.” I was never the type to reinvent the wheel every day. The challenge of taking something like fresh arugula, putting it in a cordial or bitter and then making a cool drink is super motivating and satisfying. What’s your favorite cocktail and why? Boilermaker, because all you want after a long shift is a shot of whiskey and a cold beer.
blind tiger brewery & restaurant
WrIttEn by PEtE DuLIn
ToPeKA, KS. Blind Tiger Brewery & Restaurant’s award-winning beers are
distributed on a limited basis in its hometown of topeka, Kansas, but are best imbibed at its tasting room. at the 2014 World beer cup, blind tiger brewmaster John Dean earned the champion brewery and brewmaster award in the Large brewpub division, the brewery’s munich Dunkles won gold for the best beer in the world for European-style dark/münchener dunkel and its maibock took home silver, making it the second best among worldwide competition in german-style heller bock/maibock. Such notoriety is reason enough to visit blind tiger’s home base in the state’s capital, where you can order hearty barbecue or pub food and a flight of its beers. blind tiger has at least a dozen beers on tap, including flagships such as raw Wheat and tiger bite IPa, plus seasonal and specialty beers. guests can also view the brewery and fermentation tanks on-site and order growlers to take home. Blind Tiger Brewery & Restaurant, 417 SW 37th St., Topeka, Kansas, 785.267.2739, blindtiger.com
three must-try brews | 1 | german-style maibock (7.5 percent abV) is gold in color, crisp and full-bodied with pronounced malt. While traditionally brewed in germany for a may release date (april for blind tiger), maibock occasionally appears on tap throughout the year.
| 2 | rich, smooth java porter (5.7 percent abV) uses brazilian beans from topeka’s Pt’s coffee roasting co. for a smooth, balanced beer with bold coffee aroma and flavor. | 3 | henry’s bitter (5.4 percent abV) is a lightly effervescent extra special bitter – known as an ESb – that’s not actually bitter. the full-on malt evokes the flavors of caramels and warm biscuits, balanced by two types of hops: East Kent golding and target. Stop in soon, though, as once the beer sells out, it will be replaced with another of Dean’s specialty brews.
PhotograPhy courtESy of bLInD tIgEr brEWEry & rEStaurant
PhotograPhy by zach bauman
acclaimed restaurants in Kansas City. He took home top honors at the 2009 Greater Kansas City Bartending Competition, now called Paris of the Plains Bartending Competition, and in 2010 he won $5,000 for his Chambeli Cocktail at The Gran Gala Shakedown. Vera-Felicie is currently mixing cocktails with fellow bartenders Matt Boody and Zac Snyder at Justus Drugstore, a farm-tofork restaurant led by chef-owner Jonathan Justus in Smithville, Missouri.
Justus Drugstore, 106 W. Main St., Smithville, Missouri, 816.532.2300, drugstorerestaurant.com
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where we’re drinking Check out what we’re sipping at bars, breweries, wineries and coffee shops across the region.
sycamore
stl
written by caitlyn gallip COLUMBIA, MO. in mid-february, the bar at Sycamore
KC
l’cove lounge at avenues bistro written by jenny vergara KANSAS CITY. chef-owner joe birch has successfully
operated avenues bistro in the brookside neighborhood for more than eight years, with only a front door and a sign overhead marking the restaurant’s presence. that recently changed with the opening of L’Cove Lounge (pronounced “alcove”), featuring a bright bank of street-facing windows. avenues is known for its excellent wine list, and l’cove lounge offers a thoughtful cocktail menu featuring drinks made with local j. rieger & co. whiskey and dark horse distillery spirits. the bar has five different mules on its menu – in addition to the classic moscow, try the london or bourbon – and each is made with barritt’s ginger beer from barbados and served in a proper copper mug.
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rostad says he and his fellow bartenders help guide guests through their entire meal by pairing drinks with each course. rostad suggests ordering the pimm’s pint with sycamore’s short ribs, and the algarrobina pisco with seafood dishes. for a sweet last bite, rostad recommends sipping the bar’s berry-infused vodka, made with whole frozen berries, with sycamore’s flourless chocolate cake.
WHAt’s A flAt WHite?
whitebox eatery written by Kyle harsha CLAYTON, MO. the answer depends on whom you ask – or
where in the world you’re ordering one – but it usually involves a double shot of espresso and milk that has been steamed just long enough to produce microfoam, which is milk with tiny bubbles and a satiny consistency.
Sycamore, 800 E. Broadway, Downtown, Columbia, Missouri, 573.874.8090, sycamorerestaurant.com
Como
at Whitebox Eatery in clayton, missouri, the friendly baristas describe the steamed milk as not quite whipped into a froth the same way it would be in a latte or cappuccino. by heating the milk, the sweetness is brought out and blends with the coffee, resulting in a slightly sweet, smooth beverage that doesn’t have the bitterness that sometimes accompanies a lot of foam. according to owner brendan marsden, flat whites have a higher coffee-to-milk ratio than a latte or cappuccino. the café opened in august 2014, serving breakfast and lunch fare during the week and brunch on saturday and sunday. coffee drinks are served seven days a week – and they are all made with st. louis-based blueprint coffee. if you end up opting for a latte instead of (or in addition to) a flat white, try one made with the shop’s excellent housemade syrups in flavors like vanilla, mocha and chai. a selection of fresh juices – like sweet potato and pear with carrot, ginger, lemon and cinnamon – and a small beer and wine list round out the beverage selection. the eatery is open from monday to friday from 7:30am to 3:30pm and saturday and sunday from 8am to 2:30pm, so arrive early for fast, friendly service and thoughtful bites and beverages. Whitebox Eatery, 176 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, Missouri, 314.862.2802, whiteboxeatery.com
MARCH 2015
photography by jennifer silverberg
photography by landon vonderschmidt
L’Cove Lounge at Avenues Bistro, 338 W. 63rd St., Brookside, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.333.5700, avenuesbistro.com
there is the asian-influenced green plum, featuring green tea-infused gin with plum water and a sake float, and the algarrobina pisco, a peruvian-inspired drink made with pisco, housemade sour mix and algarrobina, a syrup made from the black carob tree. take a trip down under with pimm’s pint, which rostad describes as, “like a pimm’s cup, but with a beer float.” north america is represented with a drink featuring espresso-infused reposado tequila, housemade grenadine and orange juice.
photography by travis duncan
the food menu, developed by birch and executive chef mario galan, has changed for the first time in years, moving toward flexible small plates. whether you share or not, the globally-inspired eats are fresh and light, with portions and prices ideal for snacking.
in columbia, missouri, debuted a fresh rotation of cocktails in the restaurant’s newly renovated cocktail lounge. made with from-scratch infusions, syrups and bitters and only the freshest ingredients, bartender aaron rostad drew inspiration for the menu from cultures around the world.
on The shelf : march PIcks
WINE
St. JameS Winery’S eState norton, 2012 written by ryan SCiara Provenance: St. James, Missouri PaIrIngs: norton-braised short ribs
St. James Winery cleaned up at the 2014 Jefferson Cup invitational wine Competition, winning a whopping three cups, but that’s no surprise – the winery has been producing award-winning wines throughout its 40-plus years in business. St. James’ 2012 estate norton opens with beautiful aromatics of ripe black cherry, blackberry jam and smoky spice. the full-bodied palate is layered with dark black fruits like plum, cherry and blackberry, as well as vanilla, cocoa and white pepper. the finish is long with bitter cherry, crème de cassis and even more vanilla. the wine is aged in custom barrels made with a 30 percent american oak and 70 percent French oak blend for 12 to 18 months, and its character shows in every sip. St. James Winery, 800.280.9463, stjameswinery.com Ryan Sciara has been in the wine business for more than half his life and has spent the past nine years dedicated to selling wine, spirits and craft beer in the retail market. His latest venture, Underdog Wine Co., is the culmination of 23 years of knowledge and experience all crammed into a 600-square-foot retail shop in Kansas City.
BEER
March 11th, 2015 Prairie artiSan aleS’ Prairie Standard
Collaboration beer dinner
written by brandon niCkelSon sTyle: Hoppy Farmhouse ale (5.6% abV) PaIrIngs: Roasted meats • Funky cheeses
renowned brewery Prairie Artisan Ales based in tulsa, oklahoma, is known for monstersized imperial stouts and funky sours. but the brewery’s everyday beer, Prairie Standard, is one that should not be missed; despite its name, it’s anything but standard. the refreshingly hopped saison oozes with limey and spicy notes. belgian farmhouse ales such as this one pair amazingly well with all types of foods, as they effortlessly mirror spices and lift away heavy flavors. Prairie Artisan Ales, 918.949.4318, prairieales.com Brothers Brandon and Ryan Nickelson are available to help with beer picks and pairing recommendations at their store, Craft Beer Cellar, the only all-craft beer shop in the St. Louisarea. Craft Beer Cellar is located at 8113 Maryland Ave. in Clayton, Missouri. To learn more, call 314.222.2444 or visit craftbeercellar.com/clayton.
SPIRIT
Still 630’S Soulard iSland rum written by Matt Sorrell
5 courses paired with
5 barrel aged beers
Madagascar Downfall
Provenance: St. louis (40% abV) Try IT: in rum punch
St. louis’ StilL 630 has made a name for itself with its rye whiskeys, and now the distillery is branching out with several new products. one of the latest is Soulard island rum, the result of a partnership between the distillery and Fred berrera of Soulard’s Gran Cru Cigars (the blueprint for the rum is a berrera family recipe). the spirit is distilled from molasses and brown sugar, and then aged for less than a year in unused wine barrels with oak chips, resulting in a medium-bodied, ambercolored spirit with some hints of dark sugar.
Prelude Cuvee Ange Cuvee Diable
StilL 630, 314.513.2275, still630.com When he’s not writing, Matt Sorrell can be found slinging drinks at Planter’s House in St. Louis’ Lafayette Square or bartending at events around town with his wife, Beth, for their company, Cocktails Are Go.
419 N Euclid Ave, St. Louis, MO 63108 Inspired Local Food Culture
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You don’t need reservations. You don’t even need shoes. Just two glasses and a bottle of Chambourcin. As the moon rises over a quiet lake, you wonder: “Did the winemakers know how perfect the ripe-cherry fl avor would be on nights like this?” They’re Missourians; of course they did.
m is mis i so o u rri riw iiw w win iin ne n e .or .org o g
cold as ice
chill out with a glass of whiskey on p. 32 PHOTOGRAPHy cOuRTesy Of THe wine & cHeese PlAce
SHop HERE
IL
fresh thyme farmers market written by Stacy Mccann FAIRVIEW HEIGHTS, IL. what draws people into Fresh Thyme Farmers Market in Fairview Heights, illinois, is not just food and groceries, but what customers can do with it all in their own kitchens. From the gleaming produce (thoughtfully placed in the center of the store) to the grass-fed beef, house-stuffed sausages and freshly ground nut butters, it’s easy to find high-quality, natural foods, many of which are local, without breaking your budget.
the regional grocery chain opened the Fairview Heights location in January with a mission to specialize in natural foods. Organic produce is given just as much real estate as nonorganic (with little difference in price), and more than 400 bulk bins offer items ranging from red lentils to strawberry-covered pretzels, allowing customers to buy as little or as much as they want or need.
PHOtOgraPHy by cHeryL waLLer
in addition to Fresh thyme’s selection of bulk grains, beans and snacks, the store also features an impressive selection of bulk liquids. you might expect olive oil and vinegar, but soy sauce, maple syrup and liquid aminos? Local creamed honey and agave nectar are also available, just a short walk from where customers can grind their own nut butters, with spices and fair-trade coffee rounding out the bulk section. in addition to selling fresh and local groceries, all of the serveware used in the store is compostable, and shoppers are encouraged to bring reusable shopping bags. Fresh thyme also offers more than 1,500 gluten-free items and more than 8,200 vitamins, supplements and body-care items, making the store a destination for those seeking a sustainable, full-service shopping experience. Fresh Thyme Farmers Market, 6569 N. Illinois St., Fairview Heights, Illinois, 618.230.7000, freshthyme.com
three must-trys at fresh thyme farmers market | 1 | not only does Fresh thyme offer honey in bulk, the store also stocks local creamed honey from L&P apiary in belleville, illinois. creamed honey is ideal for spreading and is the perfect match for the store’s fresh-ground nut butters (peanut, almond and even cashew). | 2 | Fresh bread, like the sea saltcaramel-pecan loaf, and pizza crust, including a gluten-free option, are made in-house daily, and are featured in the front of the store – the robust aroma draws customers in from the parking lot. | 3 | Make your own six-pack with Fresh thyme’s variety of craft beer, including 4 Hands brewing co.’s alter ego black iPa or the latest release from Schlafly beer. Fresh thyme doesn’t sell liquor, but a well-thought-out wine selection rounds out the store’s alcohol section. 30
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SC HO O L M I D DL E AN D HI GH FI CATI O N CU LI NA RY CE R TI LE LU NC H + FA RM -T O -TAB
Arts. Creativity. Invention. Social Responsibility.
Celebrating 30 Years.
AN INDEPENDENT 6-12 SCHOOL
ArtiSAN product
7933 Main St. KC, MO 64114 816.444.5225 kcacademy.org
Ks
written by Jenny vergara
SHAWNEE, KS. Vita Craft, based in Shawnee, Kansas, has launched a new line of induction-capable commercial cookware for use at home or in industrial kitchens. The 7-inch chef pan is made of stainless steel with an aluminum core and comes with a 3-year warranty.
Vita Craft, 913.631.6265, vitacraftcommercialcookware.com
photography courtesy of vita craft
vita craft commercial 7-inch chef pan
culiNAry librAry gumbo by Dale curry uncpress.unc.edu written by Liz MiLLer
in the introduction to author Dale curry’s latest cookbook, Gumbo, slated for release March 2, she summarizes the titular dish: “of all the creole-cajun dishes, gumbo is the most representative. it is a soup made from a myriad of ingredients that must be well-seasoned. this book aims to show cooks how to do just that.” curry shares the history of cajun and creole cooking, including its heritage and connection to french, spanish, german, african, caribbean and native american cultures, and shares her own childhood memories of eating shrimp-and-okra gumbo at her grandmother’s house in the big easy. from there, the book is essentially divided into two sections: the first half focuses mostly on gumbo, with 16 recipes – with contributions from chefs emeril Lagasse, Donald Link and Leah chase – in variations like cajun hen gumbo, quail gumbo, and duck and andouille gumbo, as well as recipes for its fundamental ingredients (seafood stock, poultry stock, rice, creole seasoning and a primer on how to prepare frozen and live crabs). the rest of the first half consists of six jambalaya recipes, such as chef tory Mcphail’s braised goose, a foie gras jambalaya or pastalaya, a variation on the dish that calls for pasta instead of rice. in the second half of the cookbook, curry explores lagniappe (LAN-yap), or a little something extra, which she defines as new orleans and southern Louisiana favorites like alligator sauce piquant, crab and brie soup, shrimp and grits and turtle soup.
Feast Your Eyes
Winslow’s Home chefs present an intimate four-course meal inspired by the current exhibitions—plus a tour of the Museum by CAM staff.
Tuesday, March 10 Tour: 6:30 pm Dinner: 7:00 pm $75; $50 for members. Limited seating. Purchase tickets at camstl.org/feast
Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis 3750 Washington Blvd camstl.org 314.535.4660 Inspired Local Food Culture
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geT ThIS gAdgeT
mo
riedel glassware Shop here
“There’s a science behind every single wine glass they sell for the perfect functionality. Each glass is designed to perfectly hit the nose, back of throat and tongue to give you the perfect flavor for whatever type of wine you’re drinking.” –Leslie Santa Maria, wine cellar manager, Macadoodles
KC
the sundry
Macadoodles, multiple locations, macadoodles.com; and riedelusa.net PHOtOgraPHy COurteSy OF rieDeL
written by Jenny Vergara KANSAS CITY. Living in the Crossroads arts District in Kansas City just got a little bit more convenient with the opening of The Sundry, a new market and kitchen concept co-owned by ryan wing and chef aaron Prater.
the market is simple, with reclaimed wood and steel shelving giving the store more of an Old world general store or farmers’ market feel. the real story at the Sundry is the owners’ commitment to selling locally sourced meat, produce, dairy and packaged products like sauces and condiments. you’ll find locally roasted coffee from thou Mayest Coffee roasters and the roasterie, cookware made by Vita Craft based in Shawnee, Kansas, and canned goods and preservatives from Kansas City Canning Co., as well as ketchup, hot sauce and salsa made by local nonprofit boys grow and milk, butter and cheese curds made in Osborn, Missouri, at Shatto Milk Co. when the shop’s liquor license goes into effect, the owners plan to sell a selection of local and international wine and beer. the kitchen inside the Sundry makes grab-and-go meals, or you can snag a seat at the family table and enjoy a hot cup of coffee and a brioche crostada for breakfast. For lunch, choose from a selection of sandwiches, a daily soup and several hot dishes such as braised beef served with a rice and black bean cake topped with chimichurri sauce or the Southern polenta bowl with braised chicken, collard greens three ways (creamed, pickled and fried) and ranchstyle chicken skins. there is an outdoor patio for dining, and on the building’s second floor, Prater teaches cooking classes, as he is also a culinary instructor at Johnson County Community College in Overland Park, Kansas.
PHOtOgraPHy by aLiStair tuttOn
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The Sundry, 1706 Baltimore Ave., Crossroads Arts District, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.527.0459, thesundry.com MARCH 2015
stl
drink chillers “The biggest benefit of True Fabrications’ Glacier Rocks is that they don’t water down your whiskey. The ones we sell are made from stainless steel and won’t scratch your glassware. We also have Hammerstone’s Whiskey Disks made of soapstone that sit at the bottom of the glass. Some people prefer this so that it does not move around in the glass; others like the rocks because it gives them the feel of ice, but not the negative impact of their drink getting watered down. Soapstone is great because it’s not porous, so it will not absorb the whiskey or impart any flavor.” –Paul Hayden, manager, The Wine & Cheese Place The Wine & Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, Missouri, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com; and truefabrications.com and whiskeydisks.com
PHOtOgraPHy COurteSy OF tHe wine & CHeeSe PLaCe
in addition to the owners’ emphasis on supporting local farmers and producers, they are also committed to being an earth-friendly business. the trash cans inside the market direct customers to recycle and compost, all of the shop’s grab-and-go items are packaged in biodegradable boxes and small wire-mesh shopping baskets replace plastic ones. wing’s background is in sustainable business, and it’s evident that he’s applied that knowledge and experience at the Sundry.
geT ThIS gAdgeT
Antique Whiskey Whi skey Dinner March 21, 2015 at 7pm
FEATURING 5 course meal Prepared by Executive Chef Wil Pelly of the 2014 Buffalo Trace Antique Collection
tastings
FREE GIFT Tulip Glass!
MENU #1 “Hillbilly Trail Mix” with George T. Stagg #2 “Say What? Salad” with William Larue Weller #3 “Popcorn Shrimp Carbonara” with Eagle Rare 17 Year-Old #4 “Hoosier Daddy Steak” with Sazerac Rye 18 Year-Old #5 Serendipity Ice Cream with Thomas H. Handy Sazerac
admission includes founding membership in “The Proofing Room”,
Moonshine Blues Bar’s NEW Whiskey Club! Members receive: VIP Entrance to Moonshine Blues Bar events, “First Crack” privileges for Special New Releases, Thursday Specials & More!
SPACE IS LIMITED - buy now no tickets sold at door pre purchase ONLINE -
www.hendricksbbq.com/antique 314.630.0559 - 1200 South Main Street, St. Charles, MO 63301 Inspired Local Food Culture
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dine on design
KC
The Terrazza at Lidia’s Kansas City.
ARTisAn pRoduCT
stl
PhotograPhy by tessa miller
irene’s homemade granola written by bethany Christo
KiRKWood, Mo. Irene Reinkemeyer launched Irene’s Homemade Granola in late spring 2014 in Kirkwood, Missouri, with chewy, all-natural bars. The popular Haley Blend combines honey and almonds with oats, walnuts, coconut, brown sugar and vanilla and comes in original (made with butter), vegan (made with coconut oil) and a new version that is topped with dark chocolate. Irene’s Granola is available for purchase at a handful of St. Louis-area outlets; for the full list visit ireneshomemadegranola.com.
the terrazza at lidia’s kansas city written by bethany Christo
KAnsAs CiTY. the Freight house project in Kansas City’s Crossroads arts District was one of the catalysts in making the dining and entertainment destination what it is today. sixteen years ago, acclaimed chef lidia bastianich chose to open her first restaurant outside of new york City – Lidia’s Kansas City – in a narrow 40-by-499-foot former train freight house in the once-industrial neighborhood. Craig shaw was the architect of record for the Freight house project and also implemented the striking design inside lidia’s, which was conceptualized by famous new york architect and set designer David rockwell. the rich, natural colors of the enormous wood beams, stained glass, brick and artwork create a charming and rustic feel in the 130-yearold building.
in December, the historic building completed a major renovation that had been in the works for five years with the opening of the terrazza. the new dining room adds an additional 88 seats to the existing 165, and part of the outdoor patio has been enclosed with glass windows that
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The main dining room at Lidia’s Kansas City.
“our intent and desire was to capture the outdoor space without making it feel too enclosed – we have windows and doors that we can swing wide open to the patio when the weather is nice,” says shaw, who also oversaw architecture for the terrazza. the space is a little curvier and the roof structure a little more free-flowing compared to the gabled pitch roof in the main dining room. “Craig has a lot of respect for the building and its historic nature,” swinney says. “the design he came up with injects something a lot more modern into the overall look of the building. it’s a nice juxtaposition.” general manager matt green says that when the curved ceiling and glass-lined room is lit up at night, the space feels cozy and romantic. “the other night when it was snowing, it was so beautiful sitting out there and watching the snow fall,” he says. “being covered by the elements and being so warm, you feel like you’re almost in a snow globe.” Lidia’s Kansas City, 101 W. 22nd St., Crossroads Arts District, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.221.3722, lidias-kc.com
PhotograPhy by jenny wheat
“everyone loves the three large chandeliers running down the center of the dining room made out of hand-blown glass bottles,” says executive chef Dan swinney. “i came to the project shortly after Craig, and it was a beautiful restaurant when we opened it 16 years ago, but it has stood the test of time.”
provide views of the trains at nearby Union station. in addition to dining room seating, the room will also be available for private events.
Phantom of the Grand ‘Ole Opry Interactive Comedy Mystery Dinner Theater This participatory 4-act comedy murder mystery is presented with a 4 course meal to DIE for! Tammy Whino is the Queen of the Grand Ole’ Opry. Or is she? There are rumors that the Opry is haunted. Some say that Elvis Presley himself isn’t really dead. When Tammy is found murdered, many suspect Elvis. So, ya‘all come down and help Kenny Rogeers, Dolly Pardon and all your favorite country western singers apprehend Tammy’s KILLER. Call for Reservations Today at 314.533.9830 Bring this ad for $10.00 off per person Valid thru March 2015. Not Valid for groups.
4426 Randall Place • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • bissellmansion.com
DINE IN TRUE ITALIAN STYLE! Chi Mangia Bene Vive Bene! "To Eat Well is To Live Well" Proudly Serving Authentic Italian Food in a Family Atmosphere. Let Us Cater Your Special Occasion or Office Meetings Featuring Daily Lunch & Dinner Specials
Wish Giuseppe a Happy Birthday in the month of March and receive a FREE order of Toasted Ravioli.*
*Limit one per table. Reservations Recommended, Hours of Operation: Tuesday - Saturday 11am-10pm • Sunday Noon-9pm • Closed Monday
5442 Old Hwy 21• Imperial • 636.942.2405 • trattoria-giuseppe.com
JOIN US! Wine Wednesday: Let Chef Mehmet take you on a culinary adventure with special wine pairings & select bottles half price all day. Thursday: Dine, Drink & Belly Dance with weekly cocktail specials & exciting belly dance performances. Sunday Brunch & Dinner: Enjoy an amazing breakfast menu with our delicious boozy breakfast cocktails & Chef Mehmet's Famous Turkish Fried Chicken. Lunch: Tues-Fri - Dinner: Tues-Sun - Sunday Brunch Happy Hour: Tues-Fri Available for private parties and catering. Turkish Mediterranean Cuisine. Known for our meze (small plates), Lamb Dishes, Fresh Fish and excellent wine selection.
6671 Chippewa Street • St. Louis • 314.645.9919 • ayasofiacuisine.com
Chicken Dinner Sundays Now Serving on Our Renovated 3rd Floor! Buy one chicken dinner Get one chicken dinner FREE Expires March 30, 2015. Dine-in only. Limit one coupon per table. Not to be combined with any other offers.
114 W. Mill St. • Waterloo, IL • 618.939.9933 • gallagherswaterloo.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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beef?
broil it
pork?
grill it
fish?
sautĂŠe it
shellfish?
poach it
skin?
fry it
bone?
roast it
duck?
smoke it
fat?
cook in it
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MARCH 2015
Restaurant
whether your you are whether are cooking or dining diningout... out... cooking or
seed to table
wild greens spanakopita springs up on p. 38 photography by JENNIFEr SILVErbErg
seed to table
Wild Greens Spanakopita March in the Midwest marks the vernal equinox; the turning point when warmer weather is on the horizon and days lengthen as nights shorten. Weather in the region can be precarious this time of year – warm, sunny days, rainy days and even cold, snowy days are common. But between late February and early March, frozen layers of soil begin to thaw, allowing the first greens of the season to blanket the ground; wild greens are some of the first to resurface. During the bitter cold of winter, the roots know when to grab hold of the bedrock below, and they know when to sprout and flower in the spring. Serrated dandelions, soft and delicate red clovers, dainty wild onions and garlic, succulent chickweed and burly plantain greens are among the first to emerge.
Foraging for wild greens is one of our family’s favorite pastimes. We teach our children that weeds thrive in a vast myriad of growing conditions and under severe environmental stress, making them incredibly resilient and highly adaptable. Wild greens can be easily identified and harvested in your own yard (as long as you aren’t using chemicals or pesticides). When foraging for edible weeds, it’s crucial to correctly identify plants, as there are potentially harmful look-alikes. The Missouri Department of Conservation offers local plant guides at mdc.mo.gov, including a digital copy of Jan Phillips’ 1979 book Wild Edibles of Missouri. Once you have properly identified plants, label them with plant markers so you can find them year after year.
Crystal Stevens is a farmer at La Vista CSA Farm on the bluffs of the Mississippi River in Godfrey, Illinois, where she farms with her husband, Eric. They have two children. Crystal is an advocate of integrating creativity into sustainability through writing, art, photojournalism and seed-to-table cooking. Find more of her work at growingcreatinginspiring.blogspot.com, which she created to launch her forthcoming book, Grow Create Inspire.
written by Crystal Stevens Photography by Jennifer Silverberg
Wild Greens Spanakopita Yields | 8 squares |
Wild Greens Spanakopita 16 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil, divided
1 16-oz package phyllo dough 3 minced garlic cloves 2 cups chopped wild greens, washed 2 cups chopped spinach, washed 3 Tbsp minced wild onions ¼ cup chopped roasted red pepper 1 small pinch each thyme, dill and parsley 1 pinch sea salt 1 pinch freshly ground black pepper 1 stick butter 1 cup feta cheese crumbles (optional) Wild Onion Dipping Sauce 1 8-oz package goat cheese
½ ½ 1/8 2 1
cup plain yogurt cucumber, finely chopped cup minced wild onions Tbsp fresh dill tsp sea salt
| Preparation – Wild Greens Spanakopita | Preheat oven to 425ºF. Grease the bottom and sides of an 11-by17-inch glass baking dish with 2 Tbsp olive oil. Remove phyllo dough from package and unroll to thaw. Place a damp towel over dough to prevent it from drying out. In a large skillet over medium-low heat, heat 4 Tbsp olive oil. Add garlic, greens, onions and pepper to skillet. Add herbs, salt and pepper. Sauté for about 15 minutes or until greens have wilted and are tender. Set mixture aside. In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt butter. Combine remaining 10 Tbsp oil with butter and stir well. Remove from heat and allow to cool.
| Assembly |
Place the first layer of phyllo dough on the bottom of the greased baking dish. Using a pastry brush, spread butteroil mixture over the dough. Add another sheet of dough and brush with butter-oil mixture. Repeat this process until there are 12 sheets of dough layered in the baking dish. Add half of the greens mixture and sprinkle half of the cheese crumbles evenly over the dough. Repeat the process; add 12 individually buttered sheets of dough topped with remaining greens mixture and cheese crumbles, buttering each layer of dough as you go. Spread an extra coat of butter-oil mixture on the top layer of finished spanakopita for a golden-brown finish once baked. Bake for 15 minutes or until golden brown. Cut into 8 squares and serve.
| Preparation – Wild Onion Dipping Sauce | Allow goat cheese to soften. In a medium bowl, combine yogurt and goat cheese and, using a spatula, blend until mixture is smooth. Add remaining ingredients and stir to combine. Serve dipping sauce with spanakopita.
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Inspired Local Food Culture
MARCH 2015
39
mystery shopper
Meet: AMARANth LeAves Say the word “amaranth,” and the tiny, poppable supergrain comes to mind, but that’s not the only thing this plant brings to the table. What Is It?
Amaranth leaves are – you guessed it – the green and purple-tinged leaves of the weedlike amaranth plant that are popular in Indian, African, Caribbean and Asian cuisines. Heartier than spinach but with less of a bite than kale or beet greens, the nutrient-packed leaves have a pronounced grassy flavor that works well raw or cooked. What Do I Do WIth It?
Amaranth leaves are readily available year-round; search for them in international markets and grocery stores with international food
STORY AnD RECIPE BY SHAnnOn WEBER PHOTOgRAPHY BY JEnnIFER SIlvERBERg
sections, and you’ll find them in bunches. Remove the thicker stems and chop the raw leaves right into salads or stir-frys; a quick sauté with garlic and olive oil makes for a simple side dish for weeknight meals. Blanch more mature leaves to take the earthiness down a notch and bring out a pleasant chew that complements grain and pasta-based dishes.
Rainbow Noodle Bowl with Amaranth Leaves and Spicy Peanut Dressing
This recipe is 95 percent prep work, with everything tossed together at the end. Make the dressing, chop the vegetables for the salad and all that’s left is cooking the noodles and a quick blanch of the amaranth leaves; it’s that simple. You can find Italian sweet red peppers at international markets near the amaranth leaves, though a red bell pepper will suffice. Gochujang, a Korean chile paste, can also be found at such markets.
spIcy peanut DressIng
Serves | 4 |
¼ ¼ 2 2 1½ 1
cup creamy peanut butter cup rice wine vinegar tsp toasted sesame oil Tbsp soy sauce Tbsp gochujang tsp brown sugar juice and zest of 1 lime
nooDles anD amaranth leaves
Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com, and her work has appeared on websites such as Bon Appétit, Serious Eats and America’s Test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and in life.
4½ oz soba noodles ice water 2 lbs amaranth leaves, washed, thick stalks removed sea salt to serve
4 to 5 small carrots, peeled and sliced into matchsticks 4 oz roughly chopped snow peas 3 scallions, sliced in half vertically, then sliced thinly on the diagonal 1 Italian sweet red pepper, deseeded, sliced into thin rings 6 to 8 thinly sliced radishes peanut dressing (recipe below) sea salt and freshly ground black pepper small bunch fresh cilantro, roughly chopped 2/3 cup chopped peanuts 1 to 2 Tbsp black sesame seeds
| Preparation – Spicy Peanut Dressing | In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients and whisk together until thoroughly combined. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour until ready to use. | Preparation – Noodles and Amaranth Leaves | In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, cook noodles according to package directions. Drain and rinse with cold water; drain again. Transfer to refrigerator until ready to serve. Fill the heavy-bottomed pot with water again and bring to a full boil over high heat. Fill a large bowl with ice water and set aside. Plunge amaranth leaves into boiling water and blanch for 2 minutes; remove with a spider strainer and plunge leaves immediately into ice water to cool. Once chilled, remove leaves, gently but firmly squeezing them to remove excess water, and transfer to a cutting board. Chop roughly into large sections and season with sea salt.
| To Serve | Combine noodles (give them another quick rinse in cold water if they become at all sticky) and amaranth leaves with prepared carrots, snow peas, scallions, sweet pepper and radishes to the bowl with half the peanut dressing; toss to coat and add dressing as needed, working everything together until vegetables are evenly distributed. Season with salt and pepper. Divide onto 4 plates; garnish with cilantro, peanuts and sesame seeds and serve. %PG
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menu options
PoRchetta-stYle Roast PoRk
STORY AnD ReCIPe bY GAbRIeLLe DeMICHeLe PHOTOGRAPHY bY JennIFeR SILveRbeRG
In Italy, porchetta has historically been considered peasant food, mostly found in the central regions of the country. Like many traditional Italian foods, porchetta is prepared differently from region to region but is generally defined as a dish of boneless roast pork stuffed with filling and then rolled and roasted, usually over wood. In the town of Ariccia in the Lazio region of Italy, porchetta
restaurants abound, leading to a close association with the dish, though variations of it are made across the country. This recipe is a home cook-friendly version closer to what you’d find in the region of Umbria. Pork belly can be difficult to find at grocery stores without preordering, but doing so will be worth it.
6 4 1 1 1 1 2 2 ¼
garlic cloves Tbsp fennel seeds Tbsp dried rosemary Tbsp dried oregano Tbsp black peppercorns tsp red pepper flakes Tbsp kosher salt Tbsp lemon zest cup extra virgin olive oil
HeRBS
| Preparation – Pesto | In a food processor with the blade running,
2 Tbsp roughly chopped combine all ingredients 1 at a time to make a thick paste. Scrape down fresh thyme leaves the sides of the bowl. Set aside. 1 Tbsp roughly chopped fresh rosemary leaves | Preparation – herbs | In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients ½ cup roughly chopped and mix thoroughly. Set aside. fresh parsley 3 tsp roughly chopped fennel fronds ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
Make the Meal • • • • •
Porchetta-Style Roast Pork Oven-Roasted Caramelized Onions Fried Goat Cheese Salad with Grapes and Hazelnuts Swiss Chard-Potato Frittata St. Joseph’s Day Fritters
Begin preparation the day before serving; once the roast is assembled, it needs to refrigerate overnight before cooking. Yields | 1 Ro ast | PoRk BeLLy and PoRk Loin
PeSto & heRBS PRePaRation PeSto
Roast Pork
LeaRn MoRe. In this class you’ll learn about different types of butcher’s twine and how to prepare a butcher’s tie. You’ll also learn about various cuts of pork, including pork tenderloin and pork belly. To complete the meal, we’ll learn how to make oven-roasted caramelized onions, fried goat cheese salad with grapes and hazelnuts, a Swiss chard-potato frittata and St. Joseph’s Day fritters.
get hands-on: Join Feast Magazine and schnucks Cooks Cooking school on Wed., March 18, at 6pm at the des Peres, Missouri, location to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $40 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at schnuckscooks.com or call 314.909.1704.
1 piece pork belly with skin, about 10-by-20 inches 3 to 4 lb boneless pork loin
PoRk RoaSt
1 Tbsp kosher salt, plus more 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper, plus more pesto (recipe at left) 12 smashed garlic cloves 12 fresh sage leaves ¼ lb pork fat, cut into strips or cubes herbs (recipe at left) 1 to 2 lbs pork tenderloin 1 to 2 lbs boneless pork shoulder, cut in 2-inch cubes
| Preparation – Pork Belly and loin |
With the pork belly skin-side down, score meat in a cross-hatch pattern, 1/3-inch deep and 1-inch apart. Turn pork belly over, and using a sharp knife, score skin, 1/8-inch deep in a cross-hatch pattern about 1-inch apart. Turn, skin-side down, and set aside. Place the pork loin skin-side down. On the tapered side of the loin, make a cut about 1-inch deep and then cut straight across to butterfly, continuing to make 1-inch cuts until the loin folds open like a book. Set aside.
| Preparation – Pork Roast | Season skin side of prepared pork belly with salt. Turn belly skin-side down and place flat on a cutting board with the short end facing you. Season with pepper and more salt. Spread half of the pesto over the belly, leaving a 1-inch border around the sides. Lay butterflied pork loin in the center of the pork belly and spread remaining pesto over loin. Arrange garlic, sage and pork fat on top of loin. Season with salt and pepper. Spread herbs over pork tenderloin. Toss pork shoulder cubes in remaining herbs. Place tenderloin in the center of pork loin and arrange pork shoulder cubes on top of tenderloin. Season with salt and pepper. To roll the roast, begin at the end of the pork loin where you finished the initial cut, slowly rolling and packing ingredients in tightly. When finished rolling the roast, use butcher’s twine to tie roast at 1-inch increments so it will cook evenly. Set roast on a platter and refrigerate overnight.
| to Serve | Remove roast from
refrigerator 2 hours before cooking. Preheat oven to 500ºF. Set oven rack on the second notch from the bottom of oven. Place room-temperature roast, seam-side up, on a roasting pan and transfer to the oven on the positioned rack. Cook for 50 minutes, turning once and rotating the pan. Reduce oven to 325ºF and cook until a thermometer inserted into the center registers 140ºF, about 1½ to 2½ hours. Remove roast from oven and allow to rest for 20 minutes before serving.
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JaNUaRY 2015
TV
WATCH IT ON THESE NETWORKS
In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to see Feast TV on Sat., March 7 at 2pm and Mon., March 9 at 1pm. Feast TV will also air throughout the month on nineCREATE.
In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) on Sat., March 21 at 2:30pm.
You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) on Thu., March 26 at 8:30pm and on Sun., March 29 at 6:30pm.
Feast TV will air in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) at 10am on Sat., March 21.
In our March episode, we take you inside the life and mind of a chef. See what it’s like to chop, slice and dice with students when we go behind the scenes at the Culinary Institute of St. Louis. Then, it’s a night on the line with one of Kansas City’s up-and-comers, David Ford of Port Fonda, who shares his advice for young chefs. Next, we head to Butchery in Ladue, Missouri, to learn why many chefs are leaving the line to focus on the art of butchery. Then, it’s time for a drink at Sycamore in Columbia, Missouri, where bartender Aaron Rostad is crafting cocktails to pair with the restaurant’s food.
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During the Lenten season, save time and money – let us season your fresh seafood in-store for FREE! Give your seafood some flair with variety of seasonings including our sensational dry rubs and marinades. Then, we’ll cook your fresh, seasoned seafood in-store for FREE while you shop. Or, we’ll pack it up for you to take home and make it your own way. Restaurant quality seafood for dinner tonight! Feast TV is presented by Missouri Wines with additional support from Whole Foods Market.
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Inspired Local Food Culture
©2015 Schnucks
MARCH 2015
43
sweet ideas
Oatmeal Stout Cakes
story and recipe by Christy Augustin Photography by Cheryl Waller
In March, we look forward to drinking Irish beer, to eating corned beef and cabbage and to the promise that spring is almost in sight. A little known fact: St. Patrick was actually born in Scotland, a country with a long history of cooking with oatmeal. So, in St. Patrick’s honor, this month my focus turns to oatmeal stout cake.
if party planning leads to last-minute crunch time. A neat Scotch is the best pairing with this cake, which has just the right amount of sweetness. I adapted the recipe from In the Sweet Kitchen by Regan Daly and look forward to sharing it this month at the bakery – though it always tastes a little sweeter on St. Patrick’s Day.
This recipe calls for some of my favorite baking ingredients: beer, butter and dulce de leche. I’ve been baking this cake since my days working at Sidney Street Cafe in St. Louis, and I love it so much. The batter can be baked into a 9-inch round torte or, as we serve it at the bakery, into tiny tea cakes. The baked tea cakes freeze beautifully or the batter can be made ahead of time and chilled
When making oatmeal stout cakes at the bakery, I like to use milk stout from Civil Life Brewing Co. in St. Louis, but any stout beer will work well. If you can’t find dulce de leche and don’t want to make your own at home, the same proportion of sweetened condensed milk will also work. For the 9-inch round torte version of the recipe, visit feastmagazine.com.
Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. Learn more at pintsizebakery.com.
Oatmeal Stout Cakes Serves | 12 | Stout Cake
1 cup rolled oats 1¼ cups stout beer nonstick cooking spray 1 cup room temperature unsalted butter 1 cup tightly packed brown sugar 1 cup granulated sugar ½ tsp kosher salt 2 eggs ½ tsp vanilla extract 1¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1 tsp baking soda pinch ground cloves pinch ground cardamom ½ orange, zested (optional) Crunchy Goodness
½ cup room temperature unsalted butter ½ cup tightly packed brown sugar ¼ cup dulce de leche ¾ tsp kosher salt ½ cup rolled oats ½ cup sliced toasted almonds
| Preparation – Cake Batter | In a medium bowl, combine oats and beer. Refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours to steep. Spray the bottom of a 12-cup muffin pan with nonstick cooking spray and flour the bottom and sides of each cup. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream butter, sugars and salt on medium speed until light and fluffy. Scrape well before adding eggs, 1 by 1, and vanilla. Mix again until super fluffy and pale. Sift the dry ingredients and reserve. Strain the steeped oats-beer mixture, reserving each. Alternate adding the dry ingredients with the beer in 3 additions to the batter, beginning and ending with the dry. Scrape well and fold in reserved oats and orange zest until fully incorporated.
| Preparation – Crunchy Goodness | In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream first four ingredients until just smooth. Add oats and almonds and mix until evenly combined. Set aside.
| Assembly |
Preheat oven to 350ºF.
Scoop ¼-cup batter into each prepared cup of muffin tin (until no more than 2/3 full). Bake until the centers spring back to the touch, but are still a bit moist, and cakes are a dark, toasty brown, about 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from oven and allow cakes to cool for 10 minutes before adding the crunchy goodness topping. Scoop approximately 1 Tbsp crunchy goodness onto the top of each tea cake. Transfer pan back to the oven to bake for 8 minutes more, until the tops begins to bubble and brown around the edges. Remove from oven and allow to cool. Serve.
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Opens February 28 The first four weekends, your ticket includes an enhanced experience with some of Kansas City’s top food purveyors. Exhibition tickets available at nelson-atkins.org
Curated by Brett Littman. Organized by The Drawing Center, NY. Dom Pérignon is the presenting partner for this exhibition.
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46
feastmagazine.com
MARCH 2015
| 48 |
toque of the town
| 55 |
double feature:
The Culinary Institute of St. Louis at Hickey College is brightening the future for its students and the restaurant industry.
chefs on the brink
Meet 12 up-and-coming Midwest chefs who put their all on the line.
| 72 |
by the [cook]book
| 77 |
on the block
How Kansas City chefs Colby and Megan Garrelts translated Rye from plate to page in their latest cookbook, Made in America.
The evolution of the neighborhood butcher shop. pHoToGRapHy of MeaT aT SCHubeRT’S paCKInG Co. (p. 77) by JonaTHan GayMan
toque of the town the culinary institute of st. louis at hickey college is brightening the future for its students and the restaurant industry Written by Shannon Cothran
|
PhotograPhy by Jennifer Silverberg
“hi, chef.” “good morning, chef.” “hello, chef.” Chris Desens is walking among a sea of chef’s whites down a brightly lit hallway at the Culinary Institute of St. Louis at Hickey College. Students are hurrying past him into large, utilitarian kitchens full of long, stainless steel tables covered with tubs of food: In one classroom, hunks of raw meat rest next to various knives laid out near cutting boards. In another, different types of flour wait for students to begin a lesson on pastry dough. Desens, the school’s founding program director, is attempting to give me a tour of the school, but he’s having a difficult time saying anything as every student who passes greets him, and he, in turn, acknowledges them. By name. Without glancing at their name tags.
When we finally sit down to talk about the school, Desens’ eyes are shining as he gushes about how much he loves food, teaching his students about food and being out in the culinary community getting to know other chefs. The man is sincere – he really loves this school and every student in it. Hired five years ago by Hickey College’s president, Christopher Gearin, Desens was able to be part of everything from the beginning: developing the curriculum, hiring instructors and watching the building being constructed one piece at a time. He has thrown himself into making this school the best it can be because, he says, he’s a teacher at heart – he wants to share his passion with others. And his passion is food. Desens is of average build with slightly graying brown hair and black glasses. He’s one of those guys who would make a good spy because they just sort of blend into the walls – but in the hallways of the Institute, he is the sun and everyone else orbits around him. “Anyone will tell you that the biggest motivating force in that school is chef Chris,” says Domitrio Lewis, former student and current sous chef at P.F. Chang’s in Chesterfield, Missouri. “He has a way of bringing out the best in you with every word that comes out of his mouth.” Desens began teaching only after succeeding as a chef in professional kitchens. Before beginning his work at the Institute, he served as executive chef at The Country Club at the Legends, Cardwell’s in Clayton and Racquet Club Ladue. Now he guides students through an 18-month program, at the end of which they earn a culinary arts specialized associate degree. The love he has for teaching and for the school’s students goes both ways: The students who greet him in the hallways do so with sincere admiration. “Chef Desens is the kindest, most caring, knowledgeable, motivating – this list could go on forever – just all-around awesome person I’ve encountered during my time here,” says current
student Cortney Shepard. Helping students reach their potential is what drives Desens. “Based on my management style, I believe every student that walks in is my responsibility,” he says. “I hold our chefinstructors accountable to do their job and students accountable to do better each day. I ask them to self-assess, to ask themselves in the mirror every morning: ‘What am I doing right? What can I do better?’” As the first class was finishing the program at the Institute five years ago, Desens was asking himself what he could do better. “Toward the end of our program, many of the students still didn’t know where they wanted to end up working,” he explains. After all, there are many opportunities and specialties for graduates to pursue – they can work in hotels, hospitals, casinos, restaurants, bakeries, food trucks and even for corporations and in the corporate culinary sphere, so many weren’t sure what would be the best fit for their individual interests and talents. “At first,” Desens says, “I thought this meant we had failed them. But I learned it meant we needed to make a match.” At the time, the school’s externship program involved Desens calling on his network of chefs and businesses in the region to place students in kitchens for two-month stints. In an effort to improve the matches, he increased his focus on the individual goals of each student through one-onone conversations and making sure they were connected with the right post-grad opportunities. “The externship gives students that transition from school to the work place,” he says. “We find a good spot for the student and a good student for the chef.” The externship not only helps students
Inspired Local Food Culture
MARCH 2015
49
discover the right culinary career for themselves, but also allows them to network and cinch a job when they graduate. “I teach my kids to build their networks so they can answer their own question of, ‘Where do I want to take this degree?’” Desens follows his own advice and is often out meeting with chefs and building his own network, which allows him to establish new externship outlets for his students and increase his own culinary knowledge. “Everyone I meet, there’s something they can give me – [something] that I can learn from them,” he says. “And that increases what I can pass on.” Desens teaches the first and final classes that students take at the Institute, and they are like the bookends of their education. The first class is called Tasting Success, and with it, Desens teaches students the techniques and principles that will make them successful in their careers: the importance of being on time, how to follow directions, how to clean, about safety, sanitation,
service and confidence. After they finish with the first class, they go on to learn more skills from other chef-instructors: computer applications, written expression, knife skills, supervisor training, food and beverage management, purchasing, dining room service, professional development, psychology, nutrition, math, public speaking and of course, fundamental cooking skills. For example, on day 16 of their training, students learn the elements of how to make salads: purchasing, storing and washing greens plus basic and emulsified vinaigrettes. The last two months of the 18-month program are spent completing the externship, which is the other class Desens teaches and the other bookend of the students’ education. “Our goal is to give [the industry] someone who can be a great employee – they can always enhance culinary skill level later,” he says. “I want someone who can follow directions, who reports early, who can listen and be respectful, who asks questions and who can work clean and work hard.”
Students are also given the opportunity to stage at local restaurants and to volunteer at events in St. Louis at outlets like the Saint Louis Science Center, Feast Your Eyes at the Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis and Feast in the Field, a chef-driven event at Claverach Farm in Eureka, Missouri. While volunteering, students help the events’ chefs prepare and serve food to guests, allowing them to learn, show off what they know and network. And when the students work at events, Desens goes, too. “I teach every day, just not always in the classroom,” he says. “I’m not just some guy holed up in an office. When I send them out [on a volunteer event], I’m there with them.” Desens’ intense networking has paid off – there is a long list of culinary professionals in the region who not only know Desens, but also love his work. “He has the respect from a lot of chefs in St. Louis, which allows students to have endless opportunities,” says Mark Silva, former student and sous chef at Algonquin Golf Club.
“Externships,” Desens states, are not just for the students and the Institute, but “are three-way streets between the school, the student and the restaurant. I love sharing what I know with our students. I feel the same about feeding the culinary community at large with our graduates – we’re giving them a higher-quality employee.” Area chefs agree. Ed Heath, co-owner and executive chef at Cleveland-Heath in Edwardsville, Illinois, says: “I talk to each of his students that come through Cleveland-Heath about chef Desens and his tutelage, and it’s obvious to me that he instills a vivid level of expectation and work ethic for the students. We are two for two on externs being hired on after their program.” The learning doesn’t end with externships, as Desens follows up with each extern site to further improve the program and thus the education of each student. “Every day I get more calls asking for our students,” Desens says. “I want to know what these chefs need and want, what they like
PICTURED ABOVE: Chef Chris Desens in the kitchen at the Culinary Institute of St. Louis at Hickey College. PICTURED BOTTOm lEfT: Desens drops in on a class at the Institute during a lesson on how to make Scandinavian dishes like gravlax and lefse.
based on my management style, i believe every student that walks in is my responsibility. about our students. That will help our students reach their potential, which is our goal. It’s never just a grade; it’s how what they do translates into reaching their potential.” For Desens, seeing students reach their potential means watching them share what they’ve learned at the Institute with others, and then find their place in the industry. “I don’t have a dream for bigger and better – I just want quality,” he says. “I just want to be good at what I do. I want people to respect our program and our students.” Respect and recognition for Desens and his work most recently came from the Honorable Order of the Golden Toque, a prestigious national group of culinary educators, who nominated Desens to be a member this past winter. In June, he will be inducted into the group at a ceremony in Frankenmuth, Michigan. “Our program is becoming more regionally known,” Desens says. “Am I trying to put The Culinary Institute of America out of business? No – but I’d be happy if someone from Jefferson City chose to come here instead of going there because I believe in us.” As the program grows, Desens continues to develop mutual respect and accountability with students, as well as connect with them over a shared passion for cooking. As a teenager, Desens was bitten with the food bug when he got his first job working in the kitchens of the Catholic hospital in Monett, Missouri, where his mother worked as a nurse. He went on to get a job at age 14 as a dishwasher in a restaurant in town. He was fascinated with the process of cooking in a professional kitchen and repeatedly begged the owner and head cook for more responsibility. Eventually, the owner agreed to let him be the “cook’s helper,” which led to him running the kitchen on his own for a short time. “I was the introverted, fat kid,” Desens says. “Food was safe for me. I could take a raw product and transform it, and give it to somebody and make them happy. That’s what I wanted to do for the rest of my life.” Desens graduated from high school on a Friday, and two days later, his mother drove him to St. Louis, where he promptly enrolled in the hospitality management program at St. Louis Community College–Forest Park. Working in kitchens had taught Desens two significant lessons: The first was the value of the relationship between employees and management that took place in the kitchen and in the front of the house. Proper management, he learned, depended on the connections between the food purveyor, the hostess, the customers, the kitchen staff, the bussers, the bartenders and the valet – everyone involved in the restaurant experience. “People who run a restaurant wear different hats but make it work together,” he says. “And, to
succeed, everyone has to treat others the way they’d want to be treated. I knew I wanted to be a chef, but I hung my hat on the management aspect.” And that proved to be the second significant lesson Desens learned from working in kitchens: To be a good manager, he first had to learn how to be a good employee. “I still wanted to explore my relationship with food, of course,” he says. But being a good manager was equally as important to his career. “I always say there are two things that’ll fail you, and they are systems and people. But the trump card is the management of both.” Desens distinctly remembers his own road to culinary success, from a reserved teenager who lacked confidence to someone who, in his own words, grew to love himself enough to deftly manage a kitchen. He now teaches that almost unteachable trait – confidence – to the students who come to his school. “Our instructors hold students accountable first, and I reinforce their actions,” Desens explains. “It’s a one-on-one accountability most times. We have an attendance policy. We treat this opportunity as a job and ask students to call if they will be tardy or absent. If they miss a certain percentage, they are warned, then placed into levels of attendance restriction, which may lead to dismissal, depending on the situation. If they don’t call, I call them. If they miss more than one day, I call them to check up on them to see what is going on.” In addition to holding students accountable, the team of chef-instructors he’s recruited are also fully invested in the education of each student. In order to teach courses at the Institute, chef-instructors must have a designation from the American Culinary Federation as a certified executive chef. “Our instructors work with students on their progression through classes,” Desens says. “If a student is performing below our standards, I meet individually with them halfway through the term. Each instructor develops a plan with the student for improvement and a way to reach their goal in that particular class. I support and follow up with each chef instructor and student to see that they are putting forth their best effort and holding firm to their plan. Finally, as I walk through the building each day, many times a day, I am constantly speaking to students and ‘reaching’ them in different ways. “It took me a long time to get from a shy young kid to a person who believed in himself enough to confront someone, to say, ‘This is not right; do it again.’ Management let me go from being nonconfrontational to confrontational, which isn’t a four-letter word. It’s being honest with yourself, your staff and your guests. It’s holding people accountable. Accountability got me where I am now, and it’s what we’re doing with our students.” However, Desens says accountability is only half the work for students; motivation is the other. “I take it as my responsibility to each student that our faculty is able to motivate them as much as holding them accountable,” Desens says.
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i take it as my responsibility to each student that our faculty is able to motivate them as much as holding them accountable. A mantra the school teaches its students is, “Professionalism is your cornerstone.” Like dropping a pebble in a pond and watching the ripples slowly cover the surface, Desens is casting his students – whom he has trained in the art of professionalism – into the culinary community around St. Louis and watching the effects.
he hopes this is the beginning of a trend of graduates from the Institute raising the bar for incoming kitchen employees around the region. Cary McDowell, corporate executive chef of Euclid Hospitality Group, which owns Pi Pizzeria and Gringo in St. Louis, believes that Desens’ graduates are doing just that.
“We require our students to wear their uniforms while working their externships,” he says. “I had a student come to me and tell me, ‘Chef, at first everyone in the kitchen just wore whatever. I wore my uniform, and the rest of the kitchen staff began wearing theirs, too.’”
“I had the pleasure of taking a cook from the first class at Hickey, and she is one of the best-prepared, young aspiring cooks from any program that I’ve ever dealt with, here or outside St. Louis,” McDowell says. “I think it’s a testament to [Desens’] commitment and standards. I can hit the ground running with one of his graduates.
Desens doesn’t want to speak too soon, but
“When there’s a really good program and the graduates from that program get out in the work force, it’s decidedly different. What’s still in play in the industry is motivation for attraction, meaning young cooks are very attracted and motivated by the success of their peers. So, when Hickey students get out [of school], it sets a new standard that benefits everyone because it motivates the other guys and gals to up their game.” If all goes according to Desens’ plan, the trickle of the Institute’s students into the culinary world of St. Louis will continue to slowly elevate the industry as a whole. Desens will keep teaching his students that kitchens should run on mutual respect and accountability, and then send them out
Go behind the scenes at the culinary institute of st. louis at hickey college with chef chris desens in the March episode of Feast TV. into the world, injecting the industry with quality cooks. He will continue on, one graduate at a time, watching for the ripples to reach the shore. culinary institute of st. louis at hickey college, 2700 n. lindbergh Blvd., st. louis, Missouri, 314.434.2212, ci-stl.com
pictured BottoM left: A student pipes a purée onto a baking sheet. pictured BottoM riGht: One of Desens’ signature dishes: mushroom soup with peppered bacon, smoked gouda and thyme croutons.
culinary school crib sheet with chris desens Much of the school’s curriculum was written by taking fundamental techniques from the kitchen and applying them in another way to educate the next generation of cooks. Mise en place: Roughly translated to “set in place” in French, mise en place is a kitchen term that means chefs should have all their equipment and ingredients set up before they begin cooking. Desens’ team teaches students to have a mental mise en place, which means balancing knowledge with skill. The students are not only expected to know how to make stocks, sauces and soups, and butcher a foul, but also how to compose an email, speak in public, plan a menu, complete purchasing for
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said menu, do applied math and much more. Good inGredients coMinG in equal hiGher quality GoinG out: Cooks know that the quality of their dishes depends on the quality of the ingredients used. Are the strawberries in season? Is the meat fresh and sourced from a healthy, humanely raised animal? The Institute applies this lesson to its students. “Not everyone who wants to gets into our program,” Desens says. “That means a better experience for all.” control: “Chef Bill Cardwell is a great chef; nothing moves without him knowing it,” Desens says. Desens applies this experience and the knowledge he gained from it to the school’s
program through his chef-instructors, who have all been successful executive chefs and are teaching because, “They’re passionate, like me,” he says. He trusts them and gives them control over their classes, letting them teach the concepts their own way. consistency: Chef Gordon Ramsay has said that ensuring quality and consistency in the kitchen is essential for a successful restaurant. Desens agrees, and he believes it’s true in a culinary school, as well. Although his chefinstructors have control over how they teach, he decides what they’ll teach. “My chef-instructors have ownership, and that’s important, but I can tell you every day what’s being made in each
kitchen,” he says. “Every student gets the same curriculum. Students know what to expect. This transfers to motivation.” learn froM your Mistakes: According to Julia Child, “The only real stumbling block is fear of failure,” and she encouraged cooks to “try new recipes and learn from [their] mistakes.” The staff at the Institute teaches their students to “fail quicker” and “fail better.” “We understand failure leads to success,” Desens explains. “It isn’t enough to focus solely on success; they won’t understand the value of what happens when they do fail – they’ll become more familiar with themselves, the situation and the task at hand when they fail, and be better able to understand success.”
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chefs on the brink: meet 12 midwest chefs who put their all on the line
InTroduCTIon by
Liz Miller
Chefs de cuisine, sous chefs, pastry chefs and line cooks are entrusted to help make the visions of their executive chefs a reality. For the most part, these chefs aren’t in the spotlight – yet. Their roles in the overall success of the restaurant often go unnoticed by diners, and they rarely draw the attention of media. If you ask their executive chefs, though, these are the men and women who are poised to push the restaurant industry forward. The following 12 up-and-coming chefs were each handpicked and recommended by their executive chefs as creative, passionate and focused cooks whose talent and drive will likely bring about the next wave of restaurants and culinary innovation in their respective communities. Some are closer to taking that next step than others, but what unites them all is a shared love for creating food and sharing it with people. In addition to profiling each up-andcomer, we asked the chefs to prepare what they consider their signature dish – whether one that appears on their restaurant’s menu or one purely of their own imaginations – to truly capture the essence of their work in the kitchen.
pictured: Chef Luke Cockson’s
signature dish: foie gras poutine. Turn to p. 58 for the full profile of Cockson and his work. Photography by Jonathan Gayman.
david ford nt as al sa v erde
WRITTEN By
a s mi ja sso o h “Port Fonda uri tr out with is a beast,” says He spearheads the daily specials creating inventive dishes that he says, “usually end up being a little bit of a Mexican twist on pretty classic Midwestern flavors.” signature dish pictured: Missouri trout, hoja
sous chef David Ford of the Kansas City Mexican joint that sits hundreds of hungry customers within its brightly colored-yet-still-rustic walls each night. “It’s open all the time and busy all the time.” Ford’s been in the kitchen for less than a year, sending plate after plate of sizzling tacos, cazuelitas (small plates including pork belly and fried plantains with chorizo and frijoles, or fresh fish with mole amarillo and sweet corn dumplings) to the jam-packed tables, all with chef-owner Patrick Ryan’s decisive Midwest take on Mexican staples. And Ryan is the first one to tell you that Port Fonda is a lot to handle.
santa salsa verde, crispy and puréed hominy and pearl onions by chef David Ford at Port Fonda, which previously ran as a special at the restaurant.
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“We’re open seven days a week, brunch both
Bethany Christo |
PHoTogRAPHy By
SouS CHef PoRt fondA kAnSAS City, Mo
Landon Vonderschmidt
weekend days, catering off-site multiple days a week… for David coming from a small, independent restaurant in Chicago, I’m sure we seemed like we’re practically bursting at the seams,” he says.
In his soft Midwestern accent, Ford doesn’t seem particularly overwhelmed by the chaotic kitchen. For one, he’s an 18-year veteran of the profession, spending almost all of those years working in a medley of Chicago institutions including Avec, C-House and The Bluebird, bookended by a childhood spent in Lincoln, Nebraska, and his current home in Kansas City. Although Ford mainly worked at fine-dining establishments in Chicago, they were varied in their approach – Mexican, Mediterranean, progressive, Swedish, Ethiopian and more. When he and his wife relocated to Kansas City, that experience played a strong part in his hire at Port Fonda. But another, stronger reason is that Ford and Ryan had been running in the same circles for years in Chicago, never meeting face-to-face, but each very much aware of the other. “We have a very weird connection,” Ford says. “We worked at a lot of the same places; we know a ton of the same people, but I was always two or three steps behind him.” At Port Fonda, Ford spearheads the daily specials, creating inventive dishes that he says, “usually end up being a little bit of a Mexican twist on pretty classic Midwestern flavors.” He’s bringing more seafood and farm-fresh vegetables to the recently redesigned menu and to the specials program, such as the whole-roasted
Missouri trout and a salsa verde-ramp pesto dish. While still in the planning stages, Ford will one day incorporate these Midwestern flavors with more progressive influences when he opens Crux with his wife, sister and brother-in-law. Crux had a successful pop-up event in November serving a tasting menu that included potted trout rillette, deviled quail eggs and a dish of braised pork cheeks, cornbread purée, salsa verde and plums. “I do have a lot of experience in many different flavors and techniques, but I’ll always be a Midwesterner,” Ford says. “I want to use familiar flavors [at Crux], but I’ll always have something that will be unexpected to keep it interesting.” While Ford slowly works toward opening Crux, he says he and Ryan have developed a mutually supportive relationship at Port Fonda. Ryan lets him experiment with dishes, and Ford gets lessons from one of the city’s most innovative chefs. “Patrick is such a good guy,” Ford says. “We talk a few times a week, and he’s always giving me advice from his past successes or failures. He always has an amazing upbeat attitude, is so supportive and looks outside his four walls.” Ryan agrees: “David is the difference between treading water on autopilot and consistently improving Port Fonda. My philosophy for him is if you continue to be awesome and kick a** for me, then my restaurant is an open book for you.” And if Ford can thrive within the hectic throes of Port Fonda, he can survive whatever comes next. Port Fonda, 4141 Pennsylvania Ave., Westport, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.216.6462, portfonda.com
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luke cockson photography by Jonathan Gayman
“he knows what food is supposed to taste like,” galliano says. “he also helps oversee the other cooks. there’s plenty of times when [a dish] might get lost in translation, and Luke’s been there to make sure it doesn’t get lost.” Six years ago, galliano gave Cockson one of his first restaurant jobs as a food runner at the nowshuttered an american place in St. Louis. at the time, Cockson says he was unfocused and lacked ambition after a youth spent “getting into trouble” – the last person you’d expect to advance from running food to running a kitchen. “[working with galliano was] when i began to take my culinary career seriously,” Cockson says. “to me, [the restaurant industry] was remarkable; something that started off as just a job became something that’s a way of life and a way of learning. it makes you realize how much you can take from a situation if you’re really listening.”
Determined to find his place in the industry, he moved to Vancouver to attend hotel management school. as part of the program, he staged at the now-closed Vancouver location of Daniel boulud’s db bistro Moderne. “as soon as i was in the kitchen there, i knew this was completely what i wanted to do,” Cockson says. “i remember being so impressed by how much skill and detail went into what these guys did.” after that transformative six months, Cockson dropped out of school and embarked on a series of adventures in the pacific northwest. in 2012 he moved back to St. Louis and got a job at Local harvest Cafe & Catering, where his focus was on making fresh pastas. almost a year later, Cockson got a call from galliano asking him to pick up whatever shifts he could for his forthcoming restaurant, the Libertine, which bowed in May 2013. galliano recalls: “when he came back [to St. Louis], i saw monstrous growth on this road i didn’t think he was going to go down. i thought it was maturity. it was, ‘what can we do to make this the right path for you?’” a year into his work at the Libertine, Cockson further explored what that path might be in the form of a five-month internship at Claverach Farm in eureka, Missouri. off all the things he learned from co-owners Sam hilmer and Joanna Duley, Cockson says the most important lessons were in learning how to properly grow and prepare produce. the experience also served as research for a long-term project he’s developing: a center for young people to learn farming and cooking skills.
“i remember being so impressed by how much skill and detail went into what these guys did.” signature dish pictured: Foie gras poutine with french fries, cheese curds, green peas and seared foie
gras drenched in chicken-and-beef gravy by chef Luke Cockson. Cockson says he’s made this dish for staff meals at the restaurant.
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“Cooking gave me something to work toward,” Cockson says. “i’m slowly trying to move toward a goal i have to open a nonprofit organization that teaches agricultural and culinary skills to atrisk youths, to help kids get out of [bad] situations and begin to build something. i want [a place] where people can leave with a skill set so they can get a job without going to culinary school. or, they can leave and start growing vegetables in their community.” when the farming internship ended, Cockson returned to the Libertine. and though his project is ambitious, he says that with a few more years of experience and research, he’s confident he can make a real difference in the St. Louis community. “that’s one of the things cooking has taught me – if you know something well enough, then you can demonstrate it to other people. you can develop a sense of discipline [and] caring for people through food.”
content to keep studying under galliano, the mentor who first inspired his calling. “when he gets to full-on do what he wants to do, it’s going to be amazing,” galliano says. “it might not be the splashiest thing or show up on Food network, but it’s going to help people.” The Libertine, 7927 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, Missouri, 314.862.2999, libertinestl.com
For now, he’s focused on learning all he can about agriculture, business management and cooking. For the latter, he’s
outine
During an average night at the Libertine in Clayton, Missouri, Luke Cockson is sweating behind the hot station, turning out popular menu items like three Little birds, a trio of roasted game hen, chicken and quail with rice grits, shaved radishes, baby turnips and sweet potato romesco. Some nights he’s picking up work at another station as the restaurant’s chef tournant, or he’s collaborating on a special with chef-owner Josh galliano. he cooks staff meal almost every day, an opportunity he uses to experiment with his favorite influences from Japan, thailand, Mexico and Canada. every second Sunday of the month, when the restaurant serves its fried chicken dinner, you might even catch a glimpse of him sipping gravy out of a coffee cup in the kitchen.
ras p
|
fo ie g
written by Liz Miller
Line Cook | CHef touRnAnt tHe LibeRtine CLAyton, Mo
ben klasner |
pHOTOgrApHy By Travis Duncan
The way Ben Klasner sees it, he was paid to go to culinary school. The sous chef at Sycamore in Columbia, Missouri, has no formal culinary training – that is, aside from his eight years in the kitchen alongside head chef and co-owner Mike Odette. Klasner started just a few feet over from the line, washing dishes at the restaurant when he was 20. In his free time, he’d pick up simple prep tasks, knocking more and more off his list before moving to the pantry, grill and sauté stations. Three years ago, he became the sous chef. “I paid attention, asked a lot of questions, got better and better, and eventually got to where I am,” Klasner says. Klasner’s path to the kitchen began in high school when he got a job working at one of the dining halls at the University of Missouri-Columbia. Later, he moved on to a dishwasher and prep position at Addison’s in town. Klasner says that to him, cooking has always been about learning.
ingredients speak for themselves,” Odette says. “Ben likes to experiment, using parts of products usually cast-off – peels, roots, leaves, trimmings – and has a robust interest in modern culinary techniques and ideas. ”
At Sycamore, Klasner has ample room for experimentation. Odette also works full-time across the street cooking lunch and meals for special events at Boone County National Bank – something he says wouldn’t be possible without Klasner’s participation at the restaurant. Odette says Klasner has been invaluable in keeping the kitchen’s prep running while he’s gone, along with his contributions to the menu, which include a pork cheek and shank ragu topped with poblanos, crimini mushrooms and pearl onions served over polenta, and pastas made by hand each week.
At some point down the road, Klasner says he’d love to open a place of his own in the area. But, for now, he says he’s home.
“A lot of Mike’s inspiration and a lot of what he’s taught me is he’ll say, ‘Just like mom used to make,’” Klasner says. “And it’s true. Those are the things that people come back for. That’s the reason they might be here two times a week instead of once a month.”
“I paid attention, asked a lot of questions, got better and better, and eventually got to where I am.” signature dish pictured: Rye tortellini with duck pastrami, beets and cabbage by chef Ben Klasner.
The dish was served at Sycamore this past fall and winter.
Sycamore, 800 E. Broadway, Columbia, Missouri, 573.874.8090, sycamorerestaurant.com
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Odette says Klasner’s palate and culinary perspective differ from his own, which he believes then translates to a richer experience for diners. “My cooking style is conservative, with an acknowledgement of classic combinations, culinary canon and simple preparations that let good
“I have always told myself that until I stopped learning, this is the place I would be,” he says. “I haven’t yet reached that point.”
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Never a fan of the traditional Thanksgiving dinner, Klasner convinced his mom one holiday to let him skip the turkey and stuffing and cook whatever he wanted for himself. At 12 years old, he’d been watching a lot of shows on Food Network and was convinced he could do just about anything. He was, perhaps, less convinced when his meal – a chicken breast marinated in a concoction of applesauce and Worcestershire sauce – arrived at the table.
“It turned out absolutely terrible, but I ate every bite of it because I was very stubborn,” Klasner says. “I remember thinking to myself, ‘This isn’t the best thing in the world, but I know that next time I’m going to do it a lot better.’ That was my first big failure, but in my mind it was also maybe the best thing I could have done because it made me realize that there’s always a better way.”
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WrITTeN By Heather Riske
sous chef sycamore columbIa, mo
anakaren ibarra PHOTOGRAPHY bY Landon Vonderschmidt
In high school, her questions became more detailed, and Ibarra’s mother encouraged her to enroll in culinary school. She shrugged off the idea – until one Sunday night over dinner with her family. Ibarra cooked that dinner for her family, following a recipe she’d seen on a Food Network show for a salmon dish with puff pastry and a berry buckle for dessert. “It was simple, but I was focused on getting it right since I was so new to it,” she says. Her determination paid off – when she took everything to the table, her family’s faces lit up. “It’s so cheesy to say, but from far away you see everyone sitting at the table and starting to enjoy the food,” Ibarra says. “I decided this was probably something that I should do – go around and make people happy; bring people together.”
“You get slammed with all these tickets, and to me, it’s that adrenaline, like a challenge,” she says. “I have to push all this out. Without me it’s not going to happen.”
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Hanna says the meal was special for The Rieger’s staff because Ibarra shared something so personal. That, and it was delicious – this month, he plans to feature the dish as a special at the restaurant. At The Rieger, Ibarra says
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Ibarra also helps prepare staff meal, where she can try out recipes both new and old, like a fifth-generation family mole recipe.
which will run on the specials menu at The Rieger Hotel Grill & Exchange in March.
MARCH 2015
The Rieger Hotel Grill & Exchange, 1924 Main St., Crossroads Arts District, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.471.2177, theriegerkc.com
“She has a hard position, and I throw a lot at her, and she stays cool,” he says. “A lot of times she’s the only female on the line, and she navigates that really well. She isn’t trying to out-macho the guys, but at the same time she’s really true to herself, and she’s as tough as everybody else.”
signature dish pictured: Chicken, mole, red rice and pico de gallo by chef Anakaren Ibarra,
feastmagazine.com
Ibarra is also learning frontof-house operations. She returned to school in early 2015 to work toward a food and beverage management degree – taking her one step closer to her dream of opening her own restaurant.
Hanna says Ibarra’s calm, unflappable demeanor is integral to keeping things moving smoothly in the busy restaurant.
“you get slammed with all these tickets, and to me, it’s that adrenaline, like a challenge. i have to push all this out.”
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“When you look into the dining room and see people bite into your food, and they kind of nod their head or tell their neighbor to eat it to say they love it – that to me is awesome,” she says.
Typically, Ibarra arrives at the restaurant around noon and spends the day prepping for service – butchering rabbit or chicken, dicing peppers or making sauces. When 5pm rolls around, she and the other cooks begin dinner service.
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Ibarra enrolled in Johnson County Community College in Overland Park, Kansas. Though she dropped out after a semester and a half, she was assigned to apprentice under chef Joe Shirley through the school’s culinary program. The executive chef at Treat America Food Services in Merriam, Kansas, taught Ibarra basic kitchen skills, including knife work and preparing stocks. Ibarra worked in catering with Shirley for two years, but soon realized she belonged in a restaurant kitchen.
she finally has the connection with diners that she first identified years ago. As she prepares dishes from the sauté station in the open kitchen, she can watch as guests dig into the food she’s created.
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“I’d bug her, asking, ‘Is it ready? Is it ready?’” Ibarra says. “And she’d say, ‘While you’re here, watch this, taste that.’”
A frequent diner at The Rieger Hotel Grill & Exchange, Shirley put Ibarra in touch with Howard Hanna, the restaurant’s chef-partner. Hanna says Shirley’s glowing recommendation made the opportunity hard to pass up, and Ibarra joined The Rieger as a line cook in April 2014.
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From an early age, Anakaren Ibarra remembers watching her mom cook authentic Mexican recipes each night for dinner.
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WRITTEN bY Heather Riske
line Cook THe RiegeR HoTel gRill & exCHAnge kAnsAs CiTy, Mo
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MARCH 2015
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jeff friesen |
PHoToGRAPHY bY Jonathan Gayman
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WRITTEN bY Heather Riske
sous CHef fARMHAus st. LouIs, Mo
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“He has spent the last two-plus years anchoring what I think has got to be one of the toughest stations and hot lines in the city.” -Kevin Willmann, chef-owner, Farmhaus
signature dish pictured: Pork S’mores
with smoked Newman Farm pork, Oaxaca black mole, brûléed goat cheese, housemade graham cracker crumble and watermelon radishes by chef Jeff Friesen, previously served on the tasting menu at Farmhaus.
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Ask chef Jeff Friesen what he loves about the St. Louis culinary scene, and he’ll tell you that, among other things, it’s a stark contrast from what he experienced working in New York. “The chefs pretty much all know one another,” Friesen says. “We’re friends with people at a bunch of other restaurants. We are a big city, but we’re small enough that we have this network.” It’s that very network, in fact, that helped Friesen land his job as sous chef at Farmhaus in St. Louis. After working with John Perkins, owner of Juniper in St. Louis, at a few of his underground pop-ups, he staged at Monarch, which closed its doors for renovations shortly after he came on board. Josh Galliano, who was executive chef at Monarch at the time, called up his friend Kevin Willmann, who was opening a new venture, Farmhaus. Friesen joined the kitchen staff there just a few months later. “Jeff holds the third-longest tenure at Farmhaus short of only [my wife and co-owner] Jess and me,” Willmann says, “and he has spent the last two-plus years anchoring what I think has got to be one of the toughest stations and hot lines in the city.”
Friesen’s oven breaks frequently and has been doing so for about the past year. This means he’s often left to prepare more than a hundred meals, many of which are multicourse tastings, with six burners and about 5 square feet of plating space. In addition to prepping the entire tasting menu, featuring dishes like smoked pork shoulder with chocolate mole, brûléed goat cheese and housemade graham cracker crumble, Friesen is also in charge of the sauté station. “Jeff’s culinary strengths are always improving and evolving,” Willmann says. “He is truly stretching his culinary wings with some clever dishes that are really impressing me and our guests at Farmhaus.” It wasn’t exactly a fast track to the kitchen for Friesen, though. He studied at Truman State University in Kirksville, Missouri, and received a degree in biology 15 years ago, then decided that wasn’t the career path he wanted to pursue after working various medical and science-industry related jobs for seven years. So, he packed up and headed to New York City to attend the Institute of Culinary Education, later externing for chef Missy Robbins at Italian eatery A Voce. While there, he developed a love for handmade Italian foods. Though he enjoyed his time in New York, Friesen says the abundance of opportunity there sometimes translated to less loyalty to one employer – something that’s certainly not the
case for him at Farmhaus. “His understanding, trust and loyalty are hard to find in the new era of ‘what’s hot right now’ upand-coming cooks and chefs,” Willmann says. Part of what makes Friesen such a successful chef, Willmann says, is that his father owns a small business, so “he speaks the language.” Friesen, on the other hand, says he often stops to think about just how much Kevin and Jessica have put into his hands. “I’ve been thinking about this a lot from their perspective – how much trust they put into other people,” he says. “That’s got to be the hardest part about their position [as owners]. I would be really worried if I had to trust that many people to take care of something so valuable to me every day.” It’s clear that Willmann knows Farmhaus is in good hands with Friesen. Farmhaus, 3257 Ivanhoe Ave., Lindenwood Park, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.647.3800, farmhausrestaurant.com
rick kazmer WRITTEN By Liz Miller
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PHOTOGRAPHy By Jonathan Gayman
“As we started classes, very quickly you could see who was fully engaged, and Rick was… you could tell by his passion and work ethic.”
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Enrolling in culinary school was a long time coming for Kazmer. He recalls wanting to cook for people from a young age, getting lost in the pages of cookbooks and trying to teach himself basic recipes and cooking techniques. (“I’m someone who wants to be learning every day,” he says.) Prior to moving to St. Helena, he earned a bachelor’s degree in hotel and restaurant management at Northern Arizona University, and during his off-hours, he threw himself into the restaurant world – in positions in the front of the house and in the kitchen. After graduating from culinary school and a stint at a farmto-
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Then, in 2012, Cleveland and Heath approached him with a new opportunity. The previous November, the pair had opened Cleveland-Heath in Edwardsville, Illinois, a restaurant serving elevated comfort food, and they needed help. They offered him a job as general manager with the hope that he would divide his time evenly between the front of the house and the kitchen. Kazmer came on board in June 2012, but it quickly became clear that he would be in the kitchen fulltime, and was made chef de cuisine. In the beginning, Cleveland, Heath and Kazmer were pulling 100-hour work weeks on the line, trying to keep the kitchen on task and up to their standards. As the restaurant grew, the trio were slowly able to expand the staff and refocus their energies into recipe and menu development. “I feel like our food is getting better because of that,” Kazmer says. “We’re able to be a little bit more creative.” This winter, that creativity has been channeled into new menu items, like a grilled romaine salad with tabbouleh, dill-yogurt dressing and Salume Beddu Bolognese sausage. Heath wanted to serve a grilled romaine dish, and Kazmer had been playing around with the idea of tabbouleh salad, so the chefs combined their ideas.
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“As we started classes, very quickly you could see who was fully engaged, and Rick was… you could tell by his passion and work ethic,” Heath recalls.
table restaurant in St. Helena, Kazmer moved back to his hometown of Phoenix and got his foot in the door at Binkley’s Restaurant just outside of the city. He started as a food runner at the restaurant and ended up taking on the role of wine steward.
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On the first day of culinary school, Rick Kazmer, Jenny Cleveland and Ed Heath each arrived to class ahead of the first bell. It was 2008, and the three students would go on to graduate in the same class at The Culinary Institute of America’s (CIA) Greystone campus in St. Helena, California.
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-Ed Heath, chef-owner, Cleveland-Heath
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“All three of us sit down and plan pretty much every menu,” Kazmer says. “It’s the three of us tweaking it and making it our own.” Joining the team at Cleveland-Heath
led to another life-changing event for Kazmer: He met his fiancée, Samantha McCulloch, the restaurant’s former front-of-house manager and current general manager at Taste in St. Louis. Together, Kazmer says he and McCulloch would eventually like to open their own restaurant, but for now, they’re content to keep working hard and learning as much as they can. Cleveland-Heath, 106 N. Main St., Edwardsville, Illinois, 618.307.4830, clevelandheath.com
signature dish pictured: Grilled romaine salad with tabbouleh, pomegranate molasses,
pomegranate seeds, Salume Beddu Bolognese sausage and dill-yogurt dressing by chef Rick Kazmer, previously on the menu at Cleveland-Heath.
Inspired Food Culture
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adam guess WRITTen BY Bethany Christo
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chef de cuisine death in the afternOOn st. LOuis, MO
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Jonathan Gayman
There’s a certain amount of passion required to describe a carrot as beautiful, and Adam Guess has it. “You find the most beautiful carrot and realize that all you need to do to that beautiful carrot is add some water, butter, salt and cook it until it’s perfect, and then it can be a beautiful carrot, and you didn’t screw it up,” he says.
see it – I grew up cooking in the kitchen at the church, and my grandmother is an incredible cook.”
Afternoon by June. Guess was intrigued, and it was decided that he would be chef de cuisine.
On their advice, he attended L’École CulinaireSt. Louis and spent his required externship at Cardwell’s at the Plaza in Frontenac, Missouri. There, his view on cooking shifted again.
“The sandwiches are something that drew me toward [Death in the Afternoon] – doing something as simple as a sandwich, which can be easily overdone, but at the same time overlooked,” Guess says.
But he knows a carrot’s beauty goes deeper, adding, “One of the best things in life is when you appreciate the simplicity that food can be.”
“I’d never eaten there before or even heard of it,” Guess says of the institution. “I walked in the door, and that was the day I met Bill Cardwell, which changed my life forever.”
For Guess, chef de cuisine at Downtown St. Louis’ Death in the Afternoon, this appreciation came after a bit of prodding and self-reflection. He’d been accumulating credits for two years at Drury University in Springfield, Missouri, when he returned home to St. Louis. His goal was to work at a restaurant to support going back to school, but he fell in love with cooking, and his friends and mother recognized it was something more.
Within two weeks, co-owners TJ Vytlacil and Adam Frager approached Guess about a new concept that would become Death in the
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“I think it goes back to people taking something so simple and doing it right, like a beautiful carrot,” he says. “The sweet potato and apple jam on the turkey sandwich took me four times to get right. Along with smoked turkey and white Cheddar, it’s simple but not boring.” Ramen is another signature on the menu, which Guess was instrumental in creating. During menu development brainstorming, ramen was mentioned, and Guess quickly seconded the idea. He’d first experienced the dish while working at the Japanese restaurant in Portland. “It’s not like the ramen I had there was that incredible, but it was, at its essence, true ramen,” he says. “It blew me away with how simple it was [and] how much I craved it.”
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Guess took on every job possible, all while following Cardwell’s well-oiled kitchen style. He took this newfound training and passion to a Japanese restaurant in Portland, Oregon, before moving back to St. Louis and was eventually brought on board as sous chef of Blood & Sand, the Downtown members-only restaurant, in early 2014.
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“When they suggested culinary school, the thought had never run through my mind,” Guess says. “But I was like alright, I could
The restaurant’s pastrami and turkey sandwiches are wildly popular – the pastrami was briefly taken off the menu but quickly reinstated after complaints – and both were perfected by Guess.
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Vytlacil says Guess has been a huge asset to both restaurants. “His potential is huge – we’re hoping we can keep him around as long as possible,” he says. “He’s definitely head chef potential.”
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According to Guess, though, his future plans follow the mentality of keeping things simple. “Tomorrow is next for me.” Death in the Afternoon, 808 Chestnut St., Downtown, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.621.3236, deathintheafternoonstl.com
“One of the best things in life is when you appreciate the simplicity that food can be.” signature dish pictured: The housemade
charcuterie plate with tri-tip, lonza, guanciale, fennel jam, mostarda, housemade butter and spent-grain bread by chef Adam Guess, as served on the menu at Death in the Afternoon.
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Inspired Local Food Culture
MARCH 2015
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benjamin downs written by Bethany Christo
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photography by Jonathan Gayman
Within 45 minutes of interviewing for the chef de cuisine position at Firefly Grill in Effingham, Illinois, over Skype, Benjamin Downs was ready to move his family 1,600 miles across the country from his post in Arizona. Even more impressive is the fact that Downs and Firefly executive chef and co-owner Niall Campbell were able to make it through Downs’ extensive culinary history in less than an hour.
pirate. It was a bit of bar scene, a place for locals and tourists to have a good time with great food – and Downs enjoyed cooking the fresh seafood. “The catch of the day would literally come walking up the beach, usually attached to a spear gun, still wriggling,” he says. The family moved to Sedona, Arizona, to open yet another restaurant, and Downs dabbled a bit in kitchens around town before heading to the West Coast. Before Firefly, Downs spent two years as executive chef of five – yes, five – different establishments at Cliff Castle Casino in Arizona, ranging from an award-winning fine-dining restaurant to a 24-hour fast-casual joint.
After coming on board six months ago, Downs now runs daily operations, mentors kitchen staff and collaborates with Campbell to develop the weekly menu. Most of their choices stem from what’s available on the restaurant’s 3-acre garden – the freshest ingredients with almost zero transportation required, save the trek from the garden to the striking rustic roadhouse.
So you can see why summarizing his résumé in a 45-minute interview was impressive.
“He’s my key person to bounce ideas off of,” Campbell says. “That was one of the biggest things that I was looking for: He’s always trying to get to what works best. It forces us to try something different and explain our rationale.”
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served as a special at Firefly Grill.
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salad by chef Benjamin Downs and recently
This led Downs to Barbados in his late teens, where he was head chef at his family’s second restaurant, the Lantern of Barbados, named for the next-door castle that once belonged to an infamous
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and hand-picked king crab over crème fraîche, risotto, avocado and lemon and citrus-segment
“It was definitely old school: lining up every morning, is your apron the right length, are your face and fingernails clean, staying late to clean the grout with your toothbrush kind of deal,” Downs says. “But I loved it; I’ve always loved food, and I know the work you have to put in to get it.”
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“If Niall will have me, this is where I want to be, without a doubt,” says Downs, though there’s a faraway tone in his voice. “But I could see myself growing a large garden of my own, maybe teaching culinary school or taking over the reigns here; we’ll see. I’d say anything is possible with my history.” Firefly Grill, 1810 Avenue of MidAmerica, Effingham, Illinois, 217.342.2002, ffgrill.com
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signature dish pictured: Oak-fired swordfish
In his engaging British accent and jovial demeanor, Downs recounts his kitchen background, which began in London, pulling on his mother’s apron at 8 years old to cook family meals, then learning the ropes as commis chef in his family’s internationally influenced restaurant at 14. After completing England’s secondary schooling two years later, he trained at a Michelin-starred hotel that was once King Henry VII’s country home, with all-day shifts six days a week and the remaining day spent at culinary school.
“Firefly is really an accumulation of everything I’ve done in the past, but the best of what I’ve done,” Downs says.
From salmon flown in overnight from Washington – reminiscent of his time in Barbados – to incorporating subtle Southwestern flavors – inspired by his work in Arizona – to the ultraorganized kitchen structure that mimics his days scrubbing tile in England, Firefly has it all.
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“Firefly is really an accumulation of everything I’ve done in the past, but the best of what I’ve done.”
chef de cuisine Firefly Grill Effingham, IL
milton chamberlain WRITTeN By Bethany Christo
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Perhaps most surprising is the subject of his praise – Milton Chamberlain. He’s the garde manger cook, fixing the cold-side dishes coming out of the venerated kitchen, including hamachi crudo with lardo salumi, chestnuts and truffle peel or the pickled pig head pie. Also surprising is the fact that this is one of Chamberlain’s first cooking jobs, coming from a two-year stint managing a Chipotle branch in Kansas City. Before that, he was earning his degree in restaurant management at the University of Missouri-Columbia and cooking at Chris McD’s in town. His background in the kitchen may seem sparse, but only on paper. “He has an amazing palate and finesse like I have never seen when it comes to plating,” Brazeal says. “He has twice the workload of the other cooks and still finds time to help them out. When he needed a day off, it took two people to replace him.”
A week after Chamberlain decided he was tired of the corporate world at Chipotle, he
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PHoTogRAPHy By Landon Vonderschmidt
“A prince among men” is a strong way to describe someone, but the words are especially poignant coming from Ryan Brazeal, chef-owner of the swift and focused fine-dining experience at Novel in Kansas City.
So then again, perhaps it’s not so surprising that Brazeal gives him such royal praise.
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saw a Craigslist ad for a line cook position at Novel, and applied. In fact: Chamberlain was the first person Brazeal hired for his nowpopular Downtown restaurant. Chamberlain chalks it up to luck, but reluctantly admits it may have been something deeper. “I haven’t thought too much on it,” he says, “but I think I showed all the traits of a good line cook, with my work ethic at my past jobs working lots of hours and holding responsibility. I think that’s all [Brazeal] kind of needs – someone who has some ability and is willing to put in the effort, and then he’s willing to teach.” Some of Brazeal’s lessons are more direct: Chamberlain mentions always tasting your food before it’s served, taking pride in your establishment and investing in people. But other lessons are more subjective, molded by a mind willing to learn. “My goal going in was to cook exactly like he would cook,” Chamberlain says of Brazeal’s influence. “So that’s what I try to do – mimic his palate, behave as he does. First, it’s his restaurant, so I want everything to be exactly how he wants it. Second, he’s successful at what he does, so if I act like him, hopefully I’ll be successful as well.” The kitchen staff at Novel is going to lose a valued member this May: Chamberlain and his wife, Caitlin, are moving to Hawaii for the next phase of her
dental schooling. Chamberlain says he’s excited to learn a different style of cuisine and expand his skills while staying true to the cooking code he’s learned at Novel. “Really, your only job as a cook – although there are many aspects of it – is to exceed the expectations in regard to food,” he says. With his willingness to learn, dedication to putting in the time to make things just right, nuanced approach and humble attitude, there is very little doubt he will do just that. Novel, 815 W. 17 St., Downtown, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.221.0785, novelkc.com
“He has an amazing palate and finesse like i have never seen when it comes to plating.” -Ryan Brazeal, chef-owner, Novel signature dish pictured: Pig Head Pie with
charred apple-skin purée, hickory-smoked applesauce, red wine-pickled local apples, pickled celery, pickled mustard seeds, smoked golden raisins and mizuna mix by chef Milton Chamberlain, as served on the menu at Novel.
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john messbarger WrITTEN BY Heather Riske
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PHOTOGrAPHY BY Jonathan Gayman
John Messbarger has never been a picky eater. His mom loves to tell the story of a family trip to Disney World, when 4-year-old Messbarger was dead set on ordering the lobster. The waiter wasn’t so sure, but his parents let him have it, and he loved it. That’s not his only memory of being an adventurous eater, either – he remembers bugging his grandfather to try an oyster when he was just 6 years old. So, it’s not all that surprising that Messbarger wound up cooking lobster rolls, crab boils and gumbo in landlocked St. Louis, as the chef de cuisine at Kevin Nashan’s Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co. in the city’s Benton Park neighborhood. Before landing on seafood, the L’École Culinaire-St. Louis grad worked at a handful of local fine-dining establishments including Truffles, Elaia, Olio and Little Country Gentleman. Before starting at Peacemaker, Messbarger was at The Good Pie in University City, Missouri, where he was able to work with one of his favorite dishes: handmade pasta. He played around with traditional pastas, focusing less on plating and more on flavor combinations – linguine made with nori, razor clams, lemongrass beurre monté and crushed wasabi peas, or duck egg pici with redbud blossoms and rabbit sausage topped with pistachio crumble. “With pasta, it wasn’t a plated dish anymore – it was more just about concentrating on making sure the flavors were good and the pastas were great,” Messbarger says. “You’re not concentrating on putting four or five elements on the plate and worrying about negative space.” That idea, he says, is part of what made him so excited to work at Nashan’s seafood joint, which opened this past summer. Nashan says the restaurant didn’t originally have a chef de cuisine position – just a sous chef and a few line cooks. “John really took on that role,” he says. “He takes a lot of ownership. He’s one of those kids who goes above and beyond. It’s great to see young people take such pride and have people around you who really have your back.” And Messbarger does take pride in his work. Although the restaurant is, at its heart, a lobster and crab shack, the chef says he still has room for creativity. A recent delivery of turnips to the kitchen
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CHef de Cuisine peACeMAkeR lobsteR & CRAb Co. st. louis, Mo
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resulted in turnip kimchi; extra housemade corn dogs were slathered in lobster frito pie for lobster chili dogs; fresh bay scallops on gnocchi gave him an excuse to return to his love of handmade pastas. For about a month before Peacemaker opened its doors, Messbarger, Nashan and the team used the kitchen at Nashan’s acclaimed Sidney Street Cafe for research and development, tinkering with recipes until they were just right. Nashan had his general menu in mind, but Messbarger helped flesh out some staple items, making up the horseradish mayo for the restaurant’s brisket po’boy and the Cajun sausage for the pork link po’boy. On an average day at the bustling restaurant, Messbarger works a station – fryer, boil or perhaps the raw bar – during both lunch and dinner service. He breaks up the day with different projects, like making gumbo or chowder, or seasoning meat for lobster rolls. It’s that ability to experiment that drives him, he says, as well as the caliber of the restaurant’s ingredients. When Peacemaker received its first shipment of blue crabs from Maryland, he even got pinched by one as it attempted to crawl out of the box. “It was amazing how active they were,” Messbarger says. “It was like they were fresh out of the ocean, which was pretty exciting, as well, to get to use that great of an ingredient. I mean, we pick it up at the airport – I’d never done anything like that before.” Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co., 1831 Sidney St., Benton Park, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.772.8858, peacemakerstl.com signature dish pictured:
The lobster chili dog by chef John Messbarger at Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co., which was previously served as a special.
“He takes a lot of ownership. He’s one of those kids who goes above and beyond. it’s great to see young people take such pride and have people around you who really have your back.” -Kevin Nashan, chef-owner, Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co.
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Inspired Local Food Culture
MARCH 2015
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andy mccormick WRITTEN BY Liz Miller
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY Landon Vonderschmidt
Caviar. White truffles. Buckwheat pasta. Those are the main components – and the name – of a popular dish on the tasting menu at The American Restaurant in Kansas City. So popular, in fact, that the restaurant brought it back after a brief hiatus. Executive chef Michael Corvino says the dish wouldn’t exist without the collaboration of sous chef Andy McCormick, who was inspired to make soba noodles after the kitchen received some buckwheat flour from Anson Mills. The dish well represents the connection between McCormick and Corvino – both chefs gravitate toward similar flavors, textures and influences, with complementary perspectives that yield food with imagination. “A lot of times it starts with flavor combinations with me, so I’ll start playing with those flavors, and then I’ll start trying stuff out on Corvino,” McCormick says. “I would say it’s definitely the best relationship I’ve had with a chef. I have developed to where I kind of know his flavors, his style, his profile, but he always still surprises me… we feed off each other very well.”
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Before McCormick was promoted to sous chef at The American, he spent years working in restaurants in Lawrence, Kansas, and Kansas
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City, including a two-year stint at Bluestem, and another at The American under the restaurant’s former executive chef Debbie Gold. In March 2013, McCormick moved to Austin, Texas, to help open James Beard Award-winning chef Paul Qui’s acclaimed Qui. He worked in the kitchen before the restaurant’s opening and during its first few months as saucier cook, preparing bouillon, consommé, dashi and more. After five months, McCormick and his wife decided to move back to Kansas City, but the knowledge and experience he gained there honing flavors stayed with him. Back in Kansas City, McCormick was approached by an old friend, Josh Eans, then the sous chef at The American, about returning to the restaurant. After meeting with Corvino and having a great conversation about food, McCormick agreed to come back on board. Shortly after, Eans announced he was leaving to take over operations of Kansas City’s Happy Gillis Cafe & Hangout, and Corvino made McCormick the acting sous chef. After a few months on the job, Corvino officially promoted McCormick to sous chef in January 2014. Since then, McCormick says he’s embraced the leadership aspects of the job.
“I was really worried when I was coming into this position, with management being new to me,” McCormick says. “I’d only had to manage myself and my time. Dealing with a staff and helping them grow, [not only] makes me a better person, but also, to be a part of that – to see people grow with chef’s direction and with my direction, helping them stay focused and figure out what they want – is really rewarding for me.” On Jan. 22, McCormick traveled to New York City with Corvino, the restaurant’s pastry chef, Nick Wesemann, and general manager and wine director Jamie Jamison to cook at the James Beard House. For his part, Corvino sings McCormick’s praises, and says he’d like to keep him as long as he can – because whatever the future holds for him, it’s going to be filled with great things. “There are sous chefs that become chefs, and there are career sous chefs, but Andy is going to keep moving forward,” Corvino says. “He’s got a bright future in this industry, but especially in the kitchen – you either have it or you don’t, and Andy does.” The American Restaurant, 200 E. 25th St. #400, Downtown, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.545.8001, theamericankc.com
asta p t ea “He’s got a bright future in this industry, but especially in the kitchen – you either have it or you don’t, and Andy does.” -Michael Corvino, executive chef, The American Restaurant
signature dish pictured: White sturgeon caviar with white truffles and buckwheat pasta
by executive chef Michael Corvino and sous chef Andy McCormick, as served on the tasting menu at The American Restaurant.
sarah osborn
at oa nd pea r
WRITTEN BY Bethany Christo
m
is t oi o At Missouri p ce t its miso ice e cre we core, cream with sweet a s m h t w i a pastry is potato, candied pecans essentially made with butter, flour and sugar. From there, most pastry chefs have free range to play with sweet and savory ingredients, limited only by their imagination. Sarah Osborn, pastry chef at Niche in Clayton, Missouri, however, is limited to about 300 miles. About two years ago, the fine-dining institution in the greater St. Louis area changed its kitchen philosophy to only source ingredients made or grown within a 300-mile radius, most within a mere 50 miles, to showcase all that is grown and raised in Missouri and Illinois. It’s a challenge for the savory dishes prepared by executive chef Nate Hereford and sous chef Brian Lagerstrom, but for the pastry side?
and Asian pears, as well as a salted-caramel tart with fig jam, butternut squash butter and a whipped cream fig fool. She’s always had an inventive spirit – at 16, she tried to make her first pastry cream without even knowing what it was – which led her to The Culinary Institute of America in New York City’s Hyde Park two years later, where she specialized in baking and pastry. After graduating, she came back to her hometown of St. Louis, working at a smattering of bakeries until landing a pastry assistant job at Niche for a year and a half. Eventually, she and her then-fiancé, now-husband, decided to further broaden their experiences and career opportunities, and they headed to Chicago. Once in the Windy City, Osborn was hired as
pastry assistant at Michelin-starred Boka, where she and another assistant were given the responsibility to develop desserts for the menu. A year and a half later, in the summer of 2013, she got call from Gerard Craft, owner of the restaurant group that encompasses Niche, asking her to return to the restaurant as its pastry chef. “When she moved to Chicago, I always knew that we wanted to find a way to get her back to St. Louis,” Craft says. “She has this acute understanding of flavors that are progressive but still homey and nostalgic at the same time.” Since returning to Niche, Osborn has thrived. In fact, her next project is even more ambitious: “I’m convinced 2015 is the year we’ll serve a dessert that uses no white sugar,” she says.
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pAstRy CHef niCHe ClAyton, Mo
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Jonathan Gayman
“things like chocolate, vanilla bean, cinnamon; she can’t use any of those in her desserts.” -Nate Hereford, executive chef, Niche
signature dish pictured: Missouri miso ice
cream with sweet potato cake, purple sweet potato purée, Asian pears and candied pecans by chef Sara Osborn, as previously served at Niche.
That’s right. Remember those three pastry staples – flour, butter and sugar? Osborn wants to cut that to two, substituting sugar with local honey, Missouri-tapped maple syrup and more. “It’s so easy to pout,” Osborn says, “but why not push ourselves? It’s still cakes, ice creams and fun flavors. It’s still dessert at the end of the day.” Niche, 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, Missouri, 314.773.7755, nichestlouis.com
“Things like chocolate, vanilla bean, cinnamon; she can’t use any of those in her desserts,” Hereford says. Osborn saw the challenge as a chance for creativity. “I thought I would be horribly depressed not using chocolate at all, and there are still times when I’ll be flipping through cookbooks and realize I can’t really make anything in them,” she says. “But chocolate is often used as a binding agent rather than for flavor. It’s pushed me further as a chef.” Hereford agrees: “At first she was more ambivalent about the idea, but she rose to the challenge and is now rolling with it. She’s creating amazing desserts that are a hit with our guests, and that creativity and willingness to test the limits is not something you see all the time.” Osborn makes all of the desserts on the fourcourse menu at Niche, which rotates every month or so. She uses locally grown savory ingredients like parsnips, beets and sweet potatoes to replace the staples typically found in desserts. Osborn has flourished inside the creative constraints; a few of her standouts include
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By the [Cook]Book how chefs Colby and Megan Garrelts translated Rye from plate to page in Made in America
Written by Margaret Hair
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Food PhotograPhy by Bonjwing Lee For andreWs McMeel Publishing
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Portrait PhotograPhy oF the garrelts arrelts by Zach Bauman
When Colby Garrelts was growing up, fried chicken was a Thursday-night tradition. His father – who never waited for anything – would take the family to a dive-y fried chicken spot in northeast Kansas, where the wait would sometimes stretch past 90 minutes, and after dinner, any leftover crispy pieces of poultry would be stuffed into a paper bag with a handful of pickles. The place was called Boots and Coates, and it wasn’t far from where Garrelts’ ode to nostalgic Midwestern food, Rye, stands today. “We went there so often; it was a big part of my childhood,” Garrelts says about his memories of Boots and Coates. “My dad always knew everybody who was there, and it was just one of those things – it was fun.” The fried chicken at Rye is the landslide customer
favorite on the restaurant’s list of comfort food offerings. Colby, alongside his wife, chef and co-owner Megan Garrelts, figures they move a literal ton of Rye’s flaky-crusted fried chicken each week. The restaurant’s recipe is anchored in the nostalgia of Boots and Coates and other iconic Kansas City fried chicken joints, and driven by a technique Colby picked up while attending a sustainability conference at Blackberry Farm in Tennessee’s Great Smoky Mountains. That sought-after fried chicken, along with the restaurant’s takes on hearty brunch dishes, pickled vegetables, grilled meats, barbecue and down-home desserts are featured in Made in America: A Modern Collection of Classic Recipes, the Rye-inspired cookbook due out in April. And while the restaurant’s fried chicken recipe takes three days to complete, involving a day-long brine and an overnight, uncovered stay in the refrigerator, Colby developed a
shortened rendering for the cookbook that can be completed in less than 24 hours. Nostalgia aNd Rye The low hum of neon signs advertising blue-collar beers that Colby remembers from Boots and Coates is substituted at Rye with the din of lively conversation, a rotating cast of craft brews and many, many Edison bulbs. The menu combines comfort foods with the chefs’ fine-dining backgrounds and includes takes on childhood favorites like chicken and dumplings and macaroni and cheese. Past experiences and regional mainstays are clear inspirations: “Dessert is nostalgia,” proclaims the opening page of the dessert section of the menu, which includes apple-cranberry pie, banana cream pie and a seasonal sundae. Since opening in December 2012, Rye has garnered local and regional attention. The restaurant has
won national praise from Saveur, where its fried chicken landed on the cover of the magazine’s “Best Comfort Food” August/September 2013 issue, and in the pages of Bon Appétit, where Rye was named one of 50 nominees for “Best New Restaurant in America” in 2013. The Garrelts are no strangers to the praise – their first venture, Bluestem, has become a Kansas City fine-dining institution since opening in 2004 in Westport, bringing accolades including a 2013 win for Colby as the James Beard Awards’ Best Chef: Midwest and a 2008 semifinalist spot for Megan in the Outstanding Pastry Chef category. Colby is from Leawood, Kansas, and Megan hails from a suburb of Chicago. Both chefs have memories of food tied to Midwest produce and culture, with Colby having a pull toward Southern flavors and Megan leaning more Northern. Home-cooking led to an interest in restaurants,
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which led to careers in fine dining, which led to positions for both chefs at Chicago’s acclaimed restaurant Tru. Their shared fine-dining path continued at Bluestem. When the Garrelts were writing Bluestem’s eponymous cookbook in 2011 – which adapted the restaurant’s ever-changing menu into seasonal dishes for home cooks – recipes they grew up with kept resurfacing. There was a catfish dish that recalled a more traditional cornmealbreaded fish fried in a cast-iron pan, a chocolatecherry sponge cake that reminded Megan of picking cherries as a child and crab recipes that took Colby back to summers eating blue crabs on family trips to the beach. “We were entangling our life stories of growing and eating and how we came to do fine dining,” Megan says. “We realized our next concept should probably be Midwest comfort foods, or what we grew up eating.” So they opened Rye. Within the first six months of being in business, Megan says people were
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asking for recipes from the Rye menu. The Garrelts decided to write a cookbook to share recipes from the restaurant as well as anecdotes about family gatherings and passed-down traditions that had come up while writing Bluestem: The Cookbook. The new cookbook is full of snapshots of life growing up in the Midwest. Megan looks at Made in America as not only a collection of heirloom recipes to hand down to their children – their daughter Madi is 7 and their son Colin is 4 – but also as a collection of family stories. “It’s all about being around the table and with family,” she says. “That’s why I wanted to be a chef and have a restaurant – it came from home first, before anywhere else. And that’s where this restaurant came from, and ultimately these recipes.” Sweet, Smoky and Fried As in their restaurants, Megan and Colby’s recipes in Made in America are divided between savory and sweet. Megan writes about the sweets her mother whipped up because it was cold outside, or because there were chocolate chips in the
pantry or for no reason at all. Colby has stories about learning to grill meat in the summer and braise it in cast iron during cooler months.
with crushed salted toffee. The toffee is a nod to the crushed Nilla Wafers that Megan’s mom used to sprinkle on top of her banana pudding.
Among Megan’s memories are cups of scratchmade banana pudding, which her mom would whip up and serve in small glass dishes, to make it feel fancy, with crushed Nilla Wafers sprinkled on top. “It was one of those comforts after she’d work all day or we’d be home from school,” Megan says.
“It’s kind of an upscale, adult version of what I grew up on, so I married the two together, and we came up with our banana cream pie,” Megan says. “It’s pretty much a staple, so it’ll be on the menu here forever, probably. I don’t think I can take it away.”
Spurred by the memory of her mother’s banana pudding, Megan adapted her own version of the dessert for Rye. The result is the restaurant’s banana cream pie, which also picks up cues from a banana tart at San Francisco’s Tartine Bakery. The crust of Megan’s banana cream pie gets its flaky layers from a half-butter, half-lard fat combination developed over a baking marathon when Megan was fine-tuning pastry recipes for Rye. The crust first gets covered in a layer of melted bittersweet chocolate, and then filled with vanilla custard loaded with sliced bananas before being topped with whipped cream and finished
On the cookbook’s savory side, Colby writes in the book’s introduction to his barbecue spare ribs recipe, “I got launched on my whole career because I wanted to know how to cook ribs.” Setting a goal for learning to cook a dish, and then working toward that goal, remains a process for Colby – it’s a method that benefits from years of refining and that has its roots in some very burnt ribs. “I just remember really wanting to be able to do it, and I had no point of reference,” Colby says about learning to slow-smoke meats. “I didn’t really have anyone to teach me how to do it, so I had to kind of figure it out. And I was really bad at it, for a really long time.”
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At Rye And Bluestem: Preorder forms are available at both restaurants. Preordered books are $21.99 plus shipping and come signed by Colby and Megan Garrelts. For more information, call Susan Kane at Rye at 913.642.5800.
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“I’d throw racks of ribs on that thing and burn them,” Colby says. “But I was trying – I just didn’t understand the concept of it… I’d just throw meat on [the] fire and see what happened.” The smoker setup has advanced – really, reached a whole new plane of meat-cooking existence – since then. There are two smokers on hand at Rye and a small one in the kitchen at Bluestem. Colby also has a larger, trailer-hauled smoker setup for competitions. At Rye, he smokes ribs over wood. For Made in America, he adapted the recipe to be friendlier to a home-smoker, recommending that cooks manage moisture by wrapping meat in foil or adding a tray of water under the smoker’s grate. Temperatures remain low and cooking times slow. “That’s what I cooked when I started cooking in general,” Colby says about his experiences making ribs. “For me, it made me want to learn more, and that’s what took me on the path through fine dining. And then at some point you mature as a cook or as a chef, and you realize the stuff you grew up on is probably the most important.” the next chApteR The Garrelts believe that focus on history and place is crucial to any food culture. As more restaurants open with an eye toward regional ingredients and a nod toward the fried chicken spots, barbecue joints and comfort food favorites
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Find recipes for Colby Garrelts’ fried chicken and Megan Garrelts’ banana cream pie from Made in America at feastmagazine.com.
His dad had made him a smoker out of an old water heater, and the guesswork continued from there.
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that have always made Kansas City a food town, tradition as a part of a restaurant’s identity has become more noticeable. “People are starting to understand that [food] is a very valuable part of the city and the urban core,” Megan says. “It’s part of our culture to have this.” According to Megan, there are many stories to tell and many versions of homegrown recipes to share. Megan and Colby expect regional food culture and smaller restaurants to continue their momentum in the culinary scene locally and nationally. The Garrelts will play into that growth in some way, though they’re not yet sure what the next step will be – maybe another location of Rye, maybe a concept born of collaboration. With Rye and Made in America, the Garrelts continue their focus on localism and food developed from, and meant to evoke, memories. They are sharing the recipes they love to cook, the recipes that have propelled them through their culinary careers so far. Ultimately, they hope readers come away from the cookbook with a sense of home, family and memory.
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After all, as Colby says, “This food is how I fell in love with food at the beginning.” Bluestem, 900 Westport Road, Westport, Kansas city, missouri, 816.561.1101, bluestemkc.com; Rye, 10551 mission Road, leawood, Kansas, 913.642.5800, ryekc.com
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on the Block The evolution of the neighborhood butcher shop Written by Valeria Turturro Klamm and Liz Miller
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photography of bolyard’s Meat & Provisions/Chris Bolyard, Local Pig /Alex Pope, Broadway Butcher Shop/
Stuart Aldridge and TruffleS and Butchery/ Brandon Benack by Zach Bauman
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photography of larry schubert/schubert’s Packing Co. by Jonathan Gayman
PICTURED above: Larry Schubert inside
the processing plant at Schubert’s Packing Co. in Millstadt, Illinois.
PICTURED ToP: Alex Pope breaks down a pig at Local Pig in Kansas City. PICTURED boTTom lEfT: Larry Schubert at Schubert’s Packing Co. in Millstadt, Illinois. PICTURED boTTom RIghT: Finished cuts of meat ready for the display case at Schubert’s.
During the first half of the 20th century, the neighborhood butcher shop was a staple in American life. People relied on their local butcher to carry the high-quality cuts of meat they bought each week, and in turn, butchers knew the names and needs of their regulars. These relationships slowly began to change in the 1960s, as meatpacking houses began shipping precut and boxed meat directly to supermarkets. Unable to compete with wholesale prices, whole-animal butcher shops slowly disappeared from communities across the country – but despite the sea change, some were able to swim against the tide. In the past decade, owners of such battle-tested butcher shops have seen a renewed interest in their work, as well as new customers – many of them restaurant chefs – who are seeking a more intimate relationship with food and where it comes from. “Prior to 10 years ago, a lot of chefs would only buy from large wholesalers,” says Larry Schubert, owner of Schubert’s Packing Co., which has been slaughtering, processing, butchering and selling meat in Millstadt, Illinois, for 37 years. “Now, chefs want to specialize in different items, and they use our name on their menus so customers will
see where they’re getting their meat from – they know it’s locally raised, and people trust the products we put out.” Another facet of the evolution Schubert describes is chefs not only seeking out local butchers, but stepping back from the restaurant industry to open or manage butcher shops of their own. In 2012, Alex Pope was one of the first chefs to do so in Missouri with the opening of Local Pig in Kansas City. Located in the East Bottoms neighborhood, Local Pig purchases locally sourced whole animals – cows, pigs, chickens, lambs, ducks and rabbits – for fresh cuts of meat, charcuterie and housemade sausages. Beef cuts include osso buco, short ribs, tenderloin, bone-in rib eye, flank steak and, of course, the Kansas City strip. The pork cuts are equally represented, from cheek and belly to Boston butt, bone-in or boneless chops, ribs, hock and tenderloin. Pope’s love of butchering and sausage-making first developed while attending the Institute of Culinary Education in New York. Upon graduating, he moved to Kansas City and joined The American Restaurant, where he and the other chefs tried to buy local as much as possible. Pope says he scoured the Kansas City area in search of a rack of pork chops, but couldn’t find one anywhere. His solution was to buy a whole pig. “That was when it started for me,” Pope says. “Realizing what you could do with it if you knew what all the cuts were, how you could fabricate what you wanted, get it at a good price and support local farmers. It’s the best-quality meat you can get. Buying it on the hook from someone who takes really good care of animals makes a big difference.” Pope says he didn’t see his career shift from
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chef to butcher as a “black and white decision” or one that meant his time in the restaurant world was over. Since last year, his role has been more in operations and business development. He opened a USDA-inspected wholesale plant; a fullservice restaurant, Local Pig – Westport; and his latest project is serving as culinary director for Cleaver & Cork, which opened in the Kansas City Power & Light District in February. About a mile north of Local Pig – Westport, Stuart Aldridge manages Broadway Butcher Shop. Aldridge worked at several Kansas City restaurants before taking over as general manager of the butcher shop in November 2013. Aldridge sources his products from Arrowhead Specialty Meats in Kansas City, including pork from Compart Family Farms in Iowa, Amishraised chickens from Ohio and beef from southern California. “I’m not a creature of locality as much as quality,” Aldridge says. The shop has a case dedicated to seafood, much of which is sashimi-grade and flown in fresh overnight from Hawaii or from docks around the U.S. within 24 hours via the Sea to Table company. He stocks his case with a range of fish and shellfish, including steelhead salmon, mussels, sunfish, swordfish and bigeye tuna. Seafood also inspires some of Aldridge’s specialty products, such as octopus pastrami, which was created out of the necessity of not wasting anything. In that vein, Aldridge also created small sausages, or cocktail weenies, that take on the flavor profiles of classic cocktails – Mint Julep, Old Fashioned and Bloody Mary, the latter of which makes an appearance in Broadway’s brunch version of biscuits and gravy. The shop also offers a small lunch menu with soups, chilis and sandwiches – think mortadella with truffled honey and Taleggio cheese.
As a sous chef, Aldridge worked 75 to 80-hour weeks, often sweating over a stove. Now, he says his weeks are still long, at 90 to 100 hours, but the satisfaction is greater. “Seeing people’s faces, they’re excited to go home and make something awesome,” Aldridge says. “I like the joy of telling someone how to properly cook something and teaching them tricks of the trade so they themselves can cook a beautiful meal.” The pride Aldridge derives from developing lasting relationships with customers is also what Seth Hoerman and his family love about their work at Hörrmann Meat Co. (named after the family name’s original German spelling) in Springfield, Missouri. In 2003, with no experience in meat-processing or butchering, Seth’s father, Rick Hoerman, purchased a small customprocessing business that had been in operation since 1979. Seth was a senior in college at the time, and he, his brother, Grant, and mother decided that they would join him in the new enterprise. The Hoermans hired experienced butchers and delved into what Seth calls a “crash course” in meat-processing and butchering.
PICTURED ToP: Stuart Aldridge, general manager of Broadway Butcher Shop in Kansas City. PICTURED boTTom lEfT: Pigs hanging in the plant at Schubert’s. PICTURED boTTom RIghT: Schubert’s meat cases take up a combined total of 49 feet in the retail shop in Millstadt.
family opened a retail shop in Springfield in 2011. “If we’d tried to open this store 10 years ago, I think we would have had a lot more trouble,” Seth says. “I’d say that in the past five years, [the local food scene has] changed significantly. Now people are saying, ‘What am I eating?’ and a lot of times when they figure it out, they don’t think it sounds very good. The way things were done 50 years ago is more the way we do things here.”
“We saw the lack of any type of butcher shop in Springfield, but the bigger reason was people going toward local, and we had a unique ability to do what most people don’t: take products directly from the farm to the consumer and handle the whole process,” Seth says. “There’s not too many USDA-inspected plants around anymore on the smaller side for custom work. We saw people looking for local, wanting to know where their food is coming from and what’s in it.” Within the first few years, the Hoermans introduced two sausage flavors: traditional and jalapeño-Cheddar. The jalapeño-Cheddar sausages were added to concession stands at the Springfield Cardinals stadium a few years later – the minor league baseball team based in Springfield is a Double-A affiliate of the St. Louis Cardinals – and soon after, people were asking where they could buy Hörrmann Meat Co. products. In response to consumer demand and a growing interest in locally sourced food, the
Today, Grant manages the processing plant with their father, and Seth manages the retail shop. In addition to the store’s cuts of grass-fed beef (including beef from wagyu cattle raised in Highlandville, Missouri), pork, lamb, bison, goat, elk, venison and wild boar, plus its specialty bratwurst, sausages and house-smoked products, Seth says the store has expanded into prepared meals, ready to be purchased and popped into the oven. Some items are more traditional, like the Badabing, a chicken stuffed with Italian sausage, feta, cream cheese, mushrooms and spinach, and the smoked meatloaf, while others are more exotic, like the Llamasagna, lasagna made with locally raised llama meat. After 12 years in business and much success in Springfield, Seth says his family is most grateful for the impact they’ve been able to have in their community’s food scene through their work with local farmers and sharing fresh products with customers. “It’s definitely exciting for [my dad] to see that this leap of faith he took 12 years ago was not in vain; he’s starting to see it pan out,” Seth says. “It hasn’t been an easy journey, but it’s fulfilling. It’s not really about the money; it’s about the interaction with people.” In the greater St. Louis area, Brandon Benack
at the chance to deepen that knowledge and experience at Butchery.
says he grew up with an understanding of that same connection people used to have with their neighborhood butcher shop. “I wanted to bring back the feeling I remember when I was a kid going into my uncle’s butcher shop,” says Benack, executive chef at Truffles restaurant and founder of its adjacent butcher shop, Butchery, in Ladue, Missouri. “You know the guy you’re getting your meat from, you know where it’s from, you know how it was raised; if you’ve got a question, they’re there to tell you.” With a family history of butchering – many of Benack’s uncles were butchers in upstate New York, where he grew up – Benack opened Butchery in September 2014 as an extension of Truffles. The shop offers fresh cuts of meat sourced from Price Family Farms, just 60 miles north of St. Louis, and Double Star Farms near Mt. Vernon, Illinois. Meat isn’t the only star at this shop. Cuts like pork secreto, clod-heart roast (made with a cut of beef also known as the shoulder clod) and neck medallions share real estate with porchetta di testa, house bacon and duck confit; an extensive poached, smoked and fresh sausage program; trout, salmon and shrimp; daily prepared foods like chimichurri-marinated sirloin skewers, barbecue pulled pork, meatloaf and fresh pasta – plus a selection of wines, sauces and spice blends. In the corner of the shop, illuminated from behind, is a pink Himalayan salt cooler. “We had done in-house dry-aging before,” Benack says. “This is that on steroids.” Ryan McDonald, former chef de cuisine of Juniper in St. Louis, manages operations and the butchering and charcuterie programs at Butchery. McDonald says he had some experience with whole-animal butchering at Juniper, and jumped
“I was ready for a new challenge, but the main thing that spurred my interest was the tradition [of butchering], getting back to the roots – understanding how things were done before you just went to the grocery store and bought a package of ground beef or bought steak in a Styrofoam package,” McDonald says. Though Butchery and Truffles are managed separately, McDonald says he collaborates with Benack, as the butcher shop supplies the restaurant with all its meat and seafood, while
the restaurant’s kitchen stocks the shop with customer favorites like Truffles’ burger, which people can buy at Butchery and prepare at home. McDonald says that’s what he loves most about his new position: the connection with customers and the ability to enhance their understanding of and experience with food. “The main difference that I really enjoy is having interaction with customers – being able to create the product that I’m selling, and then also to be able to meet and talk to every customer who comes into
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PICTURED ToP: Chris Bolyard of Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions in Maplewood, Missouri. PICTURED boTTom lEfT: The meat case at Butchery in Ladue, Missouri. PICTURED boTTom RIghT: Bolyard and two of his employees transfer meat to break down in the shop.
the shop, to give them guidance and point them in new directions to try new things,” McDonald says. About 5 miles away from Butchery, another former St. Louis chef has carved out a butchering business of his own. Chris Bolyard spent more than 10 years as chef de cuisine at Sidney Street Cafe in St. Louis, working alongside James Beard Award-semifinalist chef Kevin Nashan. Bolyard and Nashan began the restaurant’s whole-hog program, which gave Bolyard creative freedom to hone his skills in butchering. In an effort to learn all he could, Bolyard spent several years staging, or apprenticing, in butcher shops in New Orleans, Chicago and Nashville. All that studying paid off this past November with the opening of Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions in Maplewood, Missouri. In the short time since the shop opened, Bolyard says he’s already established neighborhood regulars who visit multiple times a week. “The coolest part is they’re open to any suggestion,” Bolyard says. “It’s almost as if they want me to tell them what to get, and it makes my job easier.” Sidney Street provided a strong backbone for what Bolyard’s doing now, with almost 90 percent of his
recipes in the shop developed during his time at the restaurant. He also got to know several local farmers during that time, and his shop sources meat from those Missouri farms, which raise hormone-free, pasture-raised animals. The cows are 100 percent grass-fed and the pigs forage on grass, tree roots and even acorns and walnuts in the fall. Bolyard says he leaves a good layer of fat on the pork chops he cuts because that’s where you can taste the flavors of the animal’s diet. Bolyard cares about good animal husbandry, and one component of his shop’s mission is to truly use the entire animal. Pig skin gets turned into raw hides for dogs, bones are cooked for stocks and sippable broths and animal fat is turned into soaps and balms by nearby retail store Maven Bath & Candle Co. Bolyard says rib eye is always the first cut to sell out in the shop, so he’s found different cuts within the cow that are new to him and his customers, including the mouse muscle, a muscle attached to the sirloin that can be a good substitute for tenderloin, or the merlot steak, a muscle in the heel of the animal that is threefourths the size of a flank steak and, according to Bolyard, eats better. Aside from constant best sellers like bacon and breakfast sausage, it can be hard for Bolyard to gauge what items will be popular from week to week. “That’s kind of the fun part – utilizing odds and ends or utilizing stuff that isn’t selling and getting creative with it,” he says. That creative approach is also in play back in Springfield at City Butcher and Barbecue, which opened in November. Owners Cody and Jeremy Smith – friends who happen to share a last name – both attended culinary school at Le Cordon Bleu, albeit in different states. Cody managed Skinner’s Ribs & Bar-B-Que in Rogersville, Missouri, as a teenager and fell in love with Texas-style barbecue
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while studying in Texas. He and Jeremy met years later while working at Metropolitan Farmer in Springfield. Cody grew tired of the kitchen work and the stress level it demanded and wanted to do something that allowed him to spend more time with his family while still exploring his passion for food. He began selling charcuterie at the Farmers Market of the Ozarks under the name Le Cochon Charcuterie, with Jeremy joining a month later. Eventually, he and Jeremy decided to rebrand the company so it would be clear that it encompassed more than just charcuterie. True to its name, City Butcher and Barbecue is part barbecue joint, part neighborhood butcher shop, with its Texas-style barbecue taking up about 75 percent of the business, selling out every single day. “We knew that if we started with a really great quality product with the barbecue, we could get people in the doors,” Cody says. “People are always asking questions; they want to know more and try new things.” On the butchery and charcuterie side, the shop focuses on a rotating selection of items, such as sausages, hot dogs, duck hams, duck pastrami, duck rillete, rolled roast and andouille-stuffed pork chops, in addition to cut-to-order dry-aged prime rib and tenderloin. “I’m kind of an old soul,” Cody says. “I really enjoy taking some of the old school things and not messing with them too much. One of our best sellers is a classic country pâté. I like to stick to the classics – dry-cured smoked bacon, brisket loaf, andouille sausage. We want to showcase the quality of meat and technique.” Cody and Jeremy source all of their meat from Creekstone Farms in Arkansas City, Kansas, and use only USDA prime brisket for their barbecue.
“We know the standard of what we want things to be,” Cody says. “We’re not going to lower the bar to make an extra buck. Jeremy and I both being chefs and that being our background, we’d rather put out the best products and worry about the money later. Somebody might say that’s being shortsighted; we believe if we do things the right way, people will ultimately appreciate it.” Back in Millstadt, Larry Schubert agrees that people do ultimately appreciate quality – it’s one of the guiding principles he founded the company on almost 40 years ago, and what he continues to strive for today. “There’s so much natural and wholesome going on now, where for a while, there was more fabrication and, ‘Do it fast, do it cheap,’” Schubert says. “Now we’re to the point where it’s, ‘Take your time, make it better.’ The public has been educated; I think customers are demanding better products – higher-quality products.” These were lessons Schubert first learned as a young man when he would accompany his father on Saturdays to slaughter cattle for local farmers. During the week, Schubert’s father
PictuReD toP: Brandon Benack, executive chef at Truffles restaurant and founder of its adjacent butcher shop, Butchery, in Ladue. PictuReD BottoM Right: A butcher at Schubert’s Packing Co. in Millstadt, Illinois, inspects a cow from the floor of the processing plant.
worked at a now-shuttered meat-processing plant in Belleville, Illinois, and right out of high school, Schubert himself began working at the plant. He spent almost 10 years there while also farming hogs and cattle on the side. But when he learned the plant was going to close, he and his wife, Mabel, decided to take a chance and open their own processing plant and butcher shop in their hometown. In the company’s first seven years in business, Schubert says it expanded each year, improving operations, introducing new products and growing its wholesale and retail store along the way.
free hogs from one local farmer and the pastureraised cattle from two farmers in Illinois. In addition to buying animals from trusted sources, Schubert says another essential step is the humane handling and slaughter of animals at his plant.
What started as an 8-foot meat case has now grown to encompass 25 feet of fresh cuts, with another 12-foot case for smoked products and sausage, plus a 12-foot case for cheese. In addition to the cuts of pork and beef sold behind the counter, Schubert’s produces more than 70 different specialty sausages ranging from blood sausage, head cheese and braunschweiger to bratwurst in flavors like Cajun, maple, beer and green onion, to Italian dried salamis like soppressata. In the past few years, Schubert’s began making nitratefree bacon and ham, and now supplies select Schnucks stores across the region with bulk orders of its nitrate-free bacon, which the grocer sells under its house label.
And Schubert is thrilled to see how much the industry has changed in the past three decades. Part of that change has included restaurant chefs – including those at Mike Shannon’s Steaks & Seafood and Franco in St. Louis – calling Schubert to supply them with pork and beef products, which he describes as hugely gratifying.
For Schubert, an essential part of producing highquality products is working with farmers he trusts to raise healthy animals. He buys all of his hormone-
With each new day, Schubert says his goals remain the same: produce food he’s proud to sell and continue to find ways to improve his work.
“You take an animal that is calm and relaxed, and just in the blink of an eye, [it’s] dead – it’s stress -free,” Schubert says. “With a stress-free animal, the muscles never get an opportunity to tighten up. There’s no suffering; there’s no chance for the adrenaline to kick into its system and start making the [meat] tough.”
“One of the biggest motivators is the gratitude people have for putting out a good product,” he says. “In January, we were at a wing fling in Millstadt, and there was craft beer, barbecue wings, stuff like that, and a gentleman came up to me and said, ‘You’re Mr. Schubert, aren’t you? I just want to thank you for being there all these years. You have the best products; I don’t know what I would do if you were ever not there.’”
“When I go to a restaurant to eat, which we do quite often, I know the chef; I know the sous chef, and we go there and eat products that we sell to the restaurant,” Schubert says. “I’m very comfortable doing that because I know exactly what they’re getting, plus I’m patronizing the people who buy from us. If the chef is in, I’ll walk back into the kitchen to say hi.”
ButcheR shoP contact info BoLyaRD’s Meat & PRovisions, 2810 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, Missouri, 314.647.2567, bolyardsmeat.com
BRoaDway ButcheR shoP, 3828 Broadway St., Westport, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.931.2333, facebook.com/ broadwaybutchershop
city ButcheR anD BaRBecue, 3650 S. Campbell Ave., Springfield, Missouri, 417.720.1113, citybutchersgf.com
cLeaveR & coRk, 1333 Walnut St., Power & Light District, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.541.3484, cleaverandcork.com
höRRMann Meat co., 1537 W. Battlefield Road, Springfield, Missouri, 417.886.6328, horrmannmeat.com
LocaL Pig, 2618 Guinotte Ave., East Bottoms and LocaL Pig – westPoRt, 510 Westport Road, Westport; Kansas City; Missouri; 816.200.1639; thelocalpig.com schuBeRt’s Packing co., 700 S. Breese St., Millstadt, Illinois, 618.476.1133, schubertspacking.com
Meet head butcher Ryan McDonald at Butchery in Ladue, Missouri, and get inside the shop’s salt-lined dry-aging room in the March episode of Feast TV.
tRuffLes anD ButcheRy, 9202 Clayton Road, Ladue, Missouri, 314.567.9100, todayattruffles.com
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GRAB A SLICE! In honor of Pi Day – as in 3.14, or March 14 – we’re celebrating pizza this month, from thin-crust to deepdish to wood-fired to grilled. We invited our Instagram followers to share photos of pies made from scratch at home or ordered at favorite local haunts by tagging photos with the hashtag #feastgram. For a taste of authentic Neapolitan pizza, turn to p. 19, where we chat with Erik Borger, who opened a second location of his popular St. Joseph, Missouri, pizzeria Il Lazzarone in Kansas City’s River Market neighorbood this month. Then, turn to p. 23 to learn about Peel Wood Fired Pizza and Peel Brewing Co. in O’Fallon, Illinois, in our interview with co-owner Patrick Thirion.
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| 1 | Scott GreGory thomaS @grillinfools My last #Grilled red pepper and maitake mushroom #Pizza. | 2 | Julia unverfehrt @juliaunverfehrt Because cliché can be fun. | 3 | GuS GuS fun buS @gusgusfunbus The namesake Plank Road pizza. Roasted chicken, smoked bacon, olive oil, red onion, mozzarella, tomatoes, topped with romaine, lettuce, mayonnaise. (At Plank Road Pizza in Cottleville, Missouri)
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| 4 | bella milano @bellamilano Chef Rod’s feature of the week is buffalo chicken #Flatbread made with blue cheese crumbles, chicken breast in buffalo sauce, celery and ranch. | 5 | morGan brittinGham @mjbritti Shakin’ it up. Beet pizza with kale and blue cheese. | 6 | craiG JoneS @craigjones_grillmayor Baja Shrimp Pizza #Chipotle #CrèmeFraîche #Avocado #Honey #Lime #Tequila #RedCabbage
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| 7 | carin thumm @thummprints Saturday night still life: pizza Margherita & pints #Pizza #Salad #PizzaMargherita #Pint #UrbanChestnut #Beer #Zwickel | 8 | Sherrie caStellano @withfoodandlove Taste-testin’ | 9 | aShli marler @smashli1228 (At Epic Pizza & Subs in St. Louis) | 10 | Kate Gilliam @kateheartscake Story Book: pesto, chicken, red onion, feta and sun-dried tomatoes. #Pizza #FoodPicsBruh #FoodPorn #STLFoods #STLEats #ChowChief #Foodie (At Felix’s Pizza Pub in St. Louis)
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Want to see your photos in the April issue of Feast? Next month, our focus turns to brunch. We want to see the mimosas and Bloody Marys you’re sipping, the pancakes or waffles slathered in syrup and the fluffy omelets packed with cheese and fresh vegetables. To submit your photos for consideration, simply include the hashtag #feastgram and tag @feastmag on your Instagram photos beginning Sun., March 1.
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PHOTOGRAPHy COURTESy OF INSTAGRAM USERS
#feastgram
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Bring Out Your Inner Chef!
culinary professionals. You’ll prep, LLearn n to be yyour own wn chef with the help of our staff of culinar of chop, dice, cook, sauté, wine and dine during our small, hands-on participatory classes. Look for our in-depth food and wine series with our very own Advanced Sommelier Stephen Gitto. Each month, we feature a special Feast class taught in collaboration with our chefs and a representative from Feast magazine!
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