May 2012 FEAST Magazine by Feast Magazine

get to know our grapes

the brains behind the bottles

culinary collaborations

LOCAL VARIETALS

CULTIVATING QUALITY

WINE and dine

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

OUR BUDDING WINE INDUSTRY

feastSTL.com | MAY 2012 | FREE

A Toast To

Missouri Wines! Our world-class selection includes many wines produced right here in Missouri Wine Country. We have a tasteful selection of some of the regions’s best-known wines including St. James Velvet Red and White, Stone Hill Pink Catawba and Mount Pleasant Red and White. You’ll find noteworthy wines made from grape varieties like Catawba, Norton and Chardonel. Plus, we offer special wine pricing when you buy six or more 750 ml bottles!

We have more Certified Specialists of Wine than any other grocer. Let them help you find some truly wonderful wines!

Metro Missouri

Brian Battocletti, CSW 54P#MB:#B N +?( GC !6% .6C +?) )+&D$&!) Jacque Arnicar, CSW I;4'%@;:;4'% N ?A=A I;4'%@;:;4'% +?) $(=D(+++ Phyllis Breckle, CSW 7*PP*:#2* EPBJB N ?=$(& FP#2* 7P2<C +?) )+)D$+=+ Matt Wider, CSW 3*8 E*:*8 N ?=++= HBM>%*86*: /<C +?) !&(D+A!) Tom End, CSW IB<4* N ""&$ IB<4* /<C +?) $=(D$($)

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Dan Eckart, CSW 1<0B:<82#PP* N ==== -:;K /<C &?" &(!DAA?A

Jolene Ahn, CSW L:BM#6* 5#6K N +?AA HB<#8;M 92*C &?" )(?DA(?$

Metro Illinois

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Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2012

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MAY 2012

Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2012

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Feast on fresh recipes in the JewishinStLouis eKitchen Our culinary bloggers are a creative bunch – always experimenting and fine-tuning their recipes. Their talents run the gamut from Naturally Kosher to Jewish Lite and a nouveau twist on old family recipes. You can always get the dish on our thriving community at JewishinStLouis.org, where our food bloggers offer foodies fresh ideas. That’s because JewishinStLouis, a service of Jewish Federation, is your connection to everything Jewish in St. Louis. Great recipes from our kitchen to yours at JewishinStLouis.org/eKitchen Scan the QR code to get the scoop on our rubber chicken.

THRIVING.TOGETHER.

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

underground dinner 48 MAY 2012

from the staff

| 12 |

feaststl.com

What’s online this month.

| 14 |

from the PUBLISHER

Raising a glass of local wine.

| 18 | FEAST FAVES

Our staff and contributors share inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis. COLUMNS

| 32 |

my stuff

Jonathan Parker revives an old favorite with the return of Parker’s Table.

| 35 |

gadget a-go-go

We put five wine keys to the test.

| 36 | ON THE SHELF

New and notable in beer, spirits and wine.

| 38 |

mystery shopper

Buy it and try it: horseradish root.

| 40 | TECH SCHOOL

The sweet simplicity of fondant.

| 42 |

how to

Unlock the secret to using a waiter’s wine key.

| 46 | EASY EATS

Get a jump-start on summer with homemade ice cream.

| 90 |

meet & greet

Brian Runge of River City Savories spreads his talent around .

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY of bud break at montelle winery (P. 68) BY Gregg Goldman Table of contents photography BY

Jennifer Silverberg

feastSTL.com

MAY 2012

a year at

Montelle

winery

sweet on missouri wine

Local varietals 101 Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2012

Magazine Volume 3

| Issue 5 | May 2012

Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville Managing Editor Brandi Wills Online Editor Kristin Brashares Art Director Lisa Triefenbach Vice President of Advertising Donna Bischoff Copy Editors/Proofreaders Andrea Mongler, Jill Pfeiffer Contributing Writers Brandon Chuang, Pat Eby, Simone Faure, Doug Frost Chad Michael George, Erik Jacobs, Jennifer Johnson Angela Ortmann, John Perkins, Lucy Schnuck, Matt Seiter Michael Sweeney, Cassy Vires Contributing Photographers Jonathan Gayman, Gregg Goldman, Laura Ann Miller Jonathan Pollack, Jennifer Silverberg, Corey Woodruff Contributing Videographer Hannah Radcliff Contributing Illustrator Derek Bauman

Contact Us Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor St. Louis, MO 63101 feastSTL.com Advertising Inquiries Kelly Klein, 314.340.8562 kklein@stltoday.com Editorial Comments editor@feastSTL.com

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright ÂŠ 2010-2012 by Feast Magazineâ&#x201E;˘. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. A publication of Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC A Lee Enterprises Company

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MAY 2012

St. Louis' Oldest Soda Fountain No visit to downtown St. Louis is complete without a stop at St. Louis' legendary soda fountain. We have been family owned and operated since 1913 and have been satisfying St. Louis' sweet tooth for generations. Come in for our homemade ice cream and hand dipped chocolate assortments. We also serve lunch all day long. Whether your in the mood for a thick-stacked BLT, Reuben or bowl of chili, we've got you covered!

2$48B#1 ?@DB 8 7A9# 6$!BC $" BC# /!4C $"" :AEC;8% '+,( - '3(' =B) 2$@AD />#6@# - 5'3).&')*.0( - 4!$;64861%<AB4C#6)4$7

Come In For $2 BBQ Taco Tuesdays! Shuttle to ALL Cards Games! Our Beer Garden is NOW OPEN! SouthTown Pub has joined with executive chef, Jamie Brust, to form SouthTown Pub and Smoke Shack. Utilizing many local vendors and markets, we have a unique menu of mouth watering BBQ, featuring five signature sauces. SouthTown Pub has also recently undergone extensive renovation to better serve our customers as well as reflect the unique charm that is South St. Louis City. Our hope is to provide a fun and friendly atmosphere for many years to come.

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Millions of people flocked to the Grand Ole Opry House to see Tammy Whino's one woman show, "Stand By Your Man." Some say that Elvis Presley himself, the King of Rock and Roll, isn't really dead. Could Elvis be lurking beneath the catacombs of the Opry? When Tammy Whino is found murdered, many suspect Elvis. So y'all come down and help Kenny Rogeers, Dolly Pardon and all your favorite country western singers as they try to apprehend Tammy Whino's KILLER. This interactive murder is served with a 4-course meal to DIE for Bring in this ad for $10.00 off per person. Valid thru May 2012. Not valid for groups.

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1 "%=$<!@H!D>>#5&<F%%,7%; Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2012

ONLINE CONTENT

www.feastSTL.com

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

The Feed

Online Exclusives

This Month’s Feast

Watch & Listen

Feast Events

Recipes

love pinterest? Our boards are filled with great food and drink recipes, our favorite St. Louis eats, dining room design ideas and more.

ONLINE EXCLUSIVES Extended Wine Coverage: Check out feastSTL.com

for a video excursion to local cooperages, Angela Ortmann’s Quite The Pair columns on pairing Missouri wines with local restaurant dishes (including Farmhaus’ escolar, pictured), our roundup of 10 new and newly discovered Missouri wineries and a special feature taking you from Missouri’s wine country to Napa Valley with Chandler Hill Vineyards winemaker Michael Hill Kennedy II. Photography BY J. Pollack Photography

Must-Watch Videos: Don’t miss Tech School chef Cassy Vires’ demo on homemade fondant (recipe on p. 40) and our too-funny-not-to-share outtakes from the shoot.

CONNECT WITH US Connect with us at facebook.com/feastSTL to stay on top of happenings at FEAST Central and connect with fellow foodies. Scan this tag to LIKE us

ONLINE FEATURES

Chef’s Call: Contributor Andrew Mark Veety turns himself over to chefs around town to give you a taste of what it’s like to dine on limited menus – or skip ordering altogether. First up in our special series: Home Wine Kitchen’s No Menu Mondays (pictured). Photography BY Jennifer Silverberg

Follow us at twitter.com/feastmag for up-to-the-minute restaurant news, special deals, FEAST events and more. Scan this tag to FOLLOW us Get the free app at gettag.mobi

feastSTL.com

MAY 2012

Hand Crafted Coffees Importing Fine Coffees from 20 Countries • QUALITY • EXPERIENCE • SERVICE Full Service Coffeehouse & Restaurant Supplier Fourth Generation Family Owned Coffee Roasters Since 1930

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Sunday, May 13th Mothers Day 10-2pm.

Ala Cart Brunch, Omelet station, Bloody Mary Bar, Fresh juice Bar.

Tuesday, May 15th Italian Wine

Tasting

with the winemaker from Benotto Delle Tezze Lunch Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 11:00-3:00 Happy Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 4:00-6:00 Dinner Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 5:00-10:00

WI-FI available. Well lit areas, Beautiful Patio!

Hosting Your Next Private Event!

Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2012

FROM THE PUBLISHER

FEAST EVENTS

winced a little bit when I saw the perfect, tiny bud on

Spotlight on Opera Reception

this month’s cover.

$10, call Emilie Hensley at 314.961.0171 x223

Last week, while at an event, I ran into a friend of mine who owns a vineyard along Hwy. 94. He grows Chardonel and Norton and had seen some of his vines’ new shoots reach an incredible six inches by mid-April. The season’s early high temperatures coaxed more growth than usual from the vines and many had even begun to show cluster formation. Then the frost came. And the leaves on those vulnerable shoots turned from vibrant lime green to a sickening, shriveled brown. I vividly remember 2007, the year of the Easter freeze that decimated the local wine industry. Luckily, this year’s frost didn’t have such a broad impact. The damage was spotty, mainly impacting low-lying vineyards or those with poor cold-air drainage. According to Andy Allen, viticulturist with University of Missouri-Columbia, there should still be an “economical crop of secondary buds … And they won’t be late in the season as we’re just getting to the point when bud burst normally begins.”

Mon., May 14, 6pm; Ethical Society

Join FEAST and the Young Friends of Opera Theatre of Saint Louis for a delicious reception and intriguing program highlighting the shimmering romantic comedy, Così fan Tutte.

Wine Tasting Thu., May 17, 6 to 7pm; EdgeWild RSVP to rsvp@stlwinegirl.com

Join columnist Angela Ortmann for a food and wine tasting at EdgeWild.

L’Ecole Academy Meatless Monday Mon., May 21, 5:30 to 8:30pm $75 per person, lecoleacademy.com or 314.264.1999

Learn the techniques and tricks to make vegetarian meals the whole family will love.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Wed., May 23, 6pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $45, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Get hands-on and make the ice cream with tuiles on p. 46.

Feast Book Club Meet-Up Tue., May 29, 6pm; The Crossing Wine Bar RSVP to editor@feastSTL.com

It’s easy to forget that farming is at the heart of winemaking and those crops are as susceptible to Mother Nature’s whims as any other. In this issue, we celebrate great local wine, from vineyard to glass. My hope is that we inspire you to explore local wines and get to know the incredible vintners who make it.

Join us to discuss Secrets of the Sommeliers: How to Think and Drink Like the World’s Top Wine Professionals by Rajat Parr while enjoying complimentary hors d’oeuvres and wine specials. Purchase the book from Left Bank Books and receive 20 percent off.

Feast Your Eyes Sat., June 2, 12:30pm Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis

This program invites you into the museum for a tasting prepared in response to the exhibitions and paired with local wine and cocktails.

Brand Appetite Mon., June 25, 6 to 8:30pm $25, brandappetite.eventbrite.com

Until next time,

Catherine Neville

FEAST and Enrich are gathering a panel of experts to discuss branding and marketing specifically for food industry businesses. From establishing a new food product to running a restaurant, this event is crafted especially for you. A panel discussion will begin the evening, followed by wine and eats.

Oceania Luxury Culinary Cruise Join publisher Catherine Neville on a 10-day luxury cruise from Istanbul to Venice with ports of call ranging from Ephesus to Athens. feedback?

catherine@feaststl.com 14

feastSTL.com

MAY 2012

PHOTOGRAPHy by

altairtravelinc.com or 314.968.9600

Jonathan Gayman

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| where we’re dining

lebanese, please Garlic, olive oil, lemon juice and herbs season the Lebanese cuisine at Layla, a new spot in The Grove. Standard meze such as hummus (which can be topped with grilled beef tenderloin), baba ghanoush and falafel are well-made, and if you’re looking for something unique, the kitchen doesn’t disappoint. Here, labneh (thickened Arabic yogurt) is creamy and mild, drizzled with aromatic olive oil. Foul moudames combines fresh fava beans with tomatoes, garlic and olive oil in a rich stew to be spooned atop thin pita. Ordering makdous brings tiny, cold eggplants stuffed with spiced walnuts, red pepper and garlic. For another take on eggplant, try mnazla batenjaan, where rich tomato sauce blankets a hearty serving that benefits from the onions and peppers. Lamb chops and beef shish kebabs are tender, the latter served with grilled tomatoes and onions. Finish with baklava made in the traditional way: with rose water. It’s a delightful way to end your Middle Eastern feast. – C.N. 4317 Manchester Road, The Grove laylalebaneserestaurant.com

feastSTL.com

MAY 2012

Layla Lebanese Restaurant 314.535.5500 The Grove

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jonathan Gayman

FEAST FAVES

FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES | what we’re dRinking

Rosé From Southern France written by Jennifer Johnson

May’s warm weather and fresh seasonal culinary options bring to mind the Mediterranean and the fine rosés of Southern France, which is the original home of rosé. Some of the world’s finest examples hail from such regions as Provence, Languedoc, Tavel and the Côtes du Rhône. Fresh, fruity, pink and dry, rosé is stylistically similar to white wines in its crisp acidity and citrus flavors and resembles red wines in its red fruit notes, spice profile (albeit mild) and fuller-bodied nature. The red grapes Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvèdre are often used to make rosé, which is produced by briefly exposing juice to skins after crushing to impart some color and flavor and then, typically, fermenting in stainless steel tanks.

Domaine de la Solitude 2011

Côtes du Rhône, France

Resplendent tangerine citrus notes and a striking pomegranate hue set the stage for a crisp, refreshing, fullerbodied mouth feel with a trace of black pepper on the finish. Pair with duck confit hash, eggplant caponata with goat cheese, and maple-glazed pork shoulder with eggs and grits. $14.99; DeVine Wines & Spirits, 2961 Dougherty Ferry Road, Suite 107, Kirkwood, 636.825.9647

Chateau Revelette 2010

Provence, France

Elegant yet flirty strawberry notes are flecked with ginger spice and give way to a raspberry-dominant, juicy, slightly creamy mouth feel. Pair with roasted shellfish with saffron mayonnaise; lamb bulgogi with Asian pear dipping sauce; and shaved, flash-fried Brussels sprouts with Pecorino. $15.99; Ladue Market, 9155 Clayton Road, Ladue, 314.993.0184

A St. Louis-based wine and food enthusiast, Jennifer Johnson is a sommelier, wine educator, journalist, and hospitality and marketing consultant who loves to celebrate life, family, food and wine.

Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2012

FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

feast on fresh coastal delights Here in St. Louis, fish doesn’t get much fresher than it does at Vin de Set’s new Fresh Fish Market, held each Thursday on the restaurant’s rooftop patio. In partnership with Bob’s Seafood, chef Ivy Magruder has seafood – oysters, prawns and at least five types of whole fish – transported to his kitchen straight from the airport. On a recent night, Atlantic black bass, Atlantic flounder, Pacific striped bass, red snapper from the Gulf of Mexico, Mediterranean dorade and Atlantic soft-shell crabs were all available, on ice, waiting for you to point to the one you wanted. At this point the fish, still whole, is grilled in front of you, topped with the sauce of your choice and served simply with rice and green beans. The seafood is priced by the pound, and some species are large enough to serve two or three people, in which case the fish is placed in the center of the table to be enjoyed family-style. The rest of Vin de Set’s Frenchified menu is also available (we say get the housemade charcuterie – the duck prosciutto with watercress and honey is fantastic). If you’ve never eaten a whole fish off the bone, head to the Fresh Fish Market. You’ll experience just how tender and succulent seafood can be. – C.N. 2017 Chouteau Ave., Lafayette Square vindeset.com

Vin de Set 314.241.8989

PHOTOGRAPHy by J. Pollack Photography

Lafayette Square

feastSTL.com

MAY 2012

FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES | FOOD STUFF

WINE VINEGAR Wine as an ingredient brings engaging flavors and aromas to dishes. Experiment with these three very different wine vinegars to add a fruit-forward zing to your cooking. – B.W.

TRY IT: Tossed with green beans and sliced almonds

TRY IT: In potato salad

TRY IT: Drizzled over paella or beef carpaccio

| 1 | Palacio Quemado dry sherry vinegar, $19.99 for 375 ml; The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com | 2 | Kimberley Champagne vinegar, $7.29 for 375 ml; Straub’s Markets, multiple locations, straubs.com | 3 | Vinagre Viejo de Montilla, $3.99 for 100 ml; vomFASS, 7314 Manchester Road, Maplewood, vomfassslmo.com PHOTOGRAPHy by Laura Ann Miller Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2012

BC’s Kitchen and Cardwell’s at the Plaza Cheerful, Comfortable, and Definitely Distinctive...BC's Kitchen and Cardwell's at the Plaza are your local dining destinations for all your special events. Whether it's a graduation, birthday, wedding rehearsal dinner or business function, a Bill Cardwell's Restaurant is St. Louis' choice for an exceptional and memorable dining experience. Come share good food with good friends and family at Cardwell's at the Plaza and BC's Kitchen. Let us create your next celebration by calling Toni Collins at Cardwell's at the Plaza, 314-997-8885, or LaVonne Nichols at BC's Kitchen

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You can't beat our meat! For over 81 years, the Wenneman family business has been a tradition for many people in the St. Louis Metropolitan area. With total commitment to customer satisfaction as their primary objective, we place great emphasis on product quality and customer service. Wenneman Meat Company is a full service, federally inspected, old fashioned butcher shop and meat market. We produce a complete line of our own meat, deli and poultry products. Our formulations and recipes have been passed down for generations, and remain unchanged, while continuing to grow our product lines.

Retail and Wholesale

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Come taste what all the FASS is about! Today - it is all about MOM! Take Mom on a tasty trip of Europe with a gift from VOM FASS. Here you will find the perfect selection of delicious oils or vinegars. Or perhaps Mom would prefer a thirst quenching liqueur! Choose from our delightful Apricot Grappa to our crowd-pleasing Sour Cherry Vodka. Mmmm! Bring this ad in and receive a free gift at VOM FASS in Maplewood.

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feastSTL.com

MAY 2012

FEAST FAVES

| whAT we’re drinking

New York Sour Story and recipe by Matt Seiter

Surprisingly, the New York Sour, which dates back to the late 1870s, was created in Chicago by a bartender who claimed to have invented the Manhattan. While the Manhattan claim can’t be confirmed, the New York Sour can safely be attributed to this bartender, though the cocktail’s name changed a few times after its conception. It was known as the Continental Sour and the Southern Whiskey Sour before becoming the New York Sour, most likely after some New York bartender popularized it and changed its name (a common occurrence in cocktail history). Regardless of what you call it, this drink begs the question of why bartenders were messing with a perfectly great whiskey sour. During that time period, a few sources reported that bartenders around Chicago were “constructing sours with a claret snap.” At that time, claret referred to any red wine, not just the red wine from Bordeaux. And the term snap meant floating a bit of red wine on the top of the drink. Apparently the creator of the New York Sour said in an interview that “the claret makes the drink look well and it gives it a better taste.”

Laura Ann Miller

The guy has a point. It’s a very pretty drink, and the sourness from the lemon and the barrel from the whiskey draw out the raw fruit flavors of the wine. Your choice of red wine will determine the overall flavors you get from the drink. Tempranillo offers a lot of plum and dark fruits, Shiraz is full of cherry, California Cabernet exudes currant and black berries and Missouri Norton brings dried fruit, currant and spices.

PHOTOGRAPHy by

In order to get those fruit flavors from the wine, you have to mix the drink up. If you sip from the straw right away, all you’re going to taste is the whiskey sour. So order the drink. Admire it. Take a picture if you care. Then swirl that straw around and blend together the flavors that make this drink a classic.

BARTENDER KNOWLEDGE

New York Sour

Floating liquids

Serves | 1 |

When a recipe calls for you to float one liquid atop another, it may seem as though it’s asking you to perform magic. But it’s actually an easy trick. In the case of the New York Sour, simply hold a spoon upside down over the glass and slowly pour the wine onto the spoon’s backside, letting it cascade into the drink. Some drinks, such as the Pousse Café, require you to know the densities of different liquids to properly float one on top of the other. You can find density charts in a few recent cocktail books or online. Once you know the densities of the liquids you’re working with, the procedure to layer drinks in this fashion is the same as the one you use to make a New York Sour.

2 oz 1 oz ¾ oz

Matt Seiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program and a continuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft of mixology. He is a member of Drink Lab and is the creator of the Sanctuaria Cocktail Club.

whiskey, preferably rye lemon juice simple syrup red wine lemon wedge for garnish

| Preparation | Add whiskey, lemon juice and simple syrup to a cocktail shaker. Add ice, shake and strain into a Collins glass filled with crushed ice. Float red wine on top and garnish with a lemon wedge.

Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2012

FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES | THE DISH

Contributor’s Pick

Annie Gunn’s reputation might lie mostly in its Irish heritage and impeccable steaks and chops, but every visit I make must start with the mouthwatering House Smoked Seafood Sampler. A well-stocked platter arrives filled with succulent Funks Grove maple-glazed jumbo shrimp, tender Viking Village sea scallops, fresh Irish salmon and local Troutdale Farm Missouri trout, all given the signature smoky touch that the famed smokehouse uses on its heartier meats. Also gracing the plate are traditional garnishes of diced red onion; capers; slices of house made Guinness rye bread; and, lastly, two ramekins for dipping – Pennsylvania Dutch barbecue and a creamy, tart horseradish-dill sauce. Always on the hunt for the perfect wine pairing, I cannot resist a chilled glass of Adam Puchta’s Vidal Blanc. A crisp, clean body with notes of pear, citrus and herbs makes for a perfect springtime complement to this platter, allowing the beauty of the smoked seafood to shine while the white wine’s bright acidity and zesty fruit tones further enliven the meal.

Annie Gunn’s Smokehouse 636.532.7684 Chesterfield Check out Angela’s On The Shelf picks (p. 37) and her weekly Quite The Pair column at feastSTL.com.

feastSTL.com

Angela Ortmann

MAY 2012

PHOTOGRAPHy by Corey Woodruff

16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield anniegunns.com

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VANTANA embraces the timeless Arts and Crafts movement with artisan styling.

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O’FALLON, MO

O’FALLON, IL

SOUTH SIDE

636-978-3500

618-632-1700

314-968-5595

SOUTH COUNTY

DELLWOOD

ALTON

314-892-9002

314-388-0200

618-462-9770

Daily 10-8 Sunday 12-5

Fresh Grilled Grouper with Mango Salsa Twice Baked Potatoes Mixed Grilled Vegetables Join Us For Mother's Day Check our website www.magpiesonmain.com For weekly updates

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Celebrating 75 years It has been over 75 years since Alfonso Castelli opened Moonlight Restaurant. It gained instant popularity and has grown consistently through several expansions and is now owned, operated, and managed by the 3rd and 4th generations of the Castelli family. In October 2008, grandson Phil and great- grand children Tracy and Matt re-assumed the leadership of this proud family dining tradition and formed a new company. Once known as the only "local" landmark restaurant serving the Alton, Illinois area, “Castelli’s Moonlight at 255”, is now a St. Louis area favorite drawing diners from around the world. Open at 11a.m. daily for lunch and dinner (closed Mondays). A FREE LUNCH - Please ask about our lunch punch cards.

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Oceano Bistro is the premiere seafood restaurant in St. Louis With fresh gourmet cuisine, friendly service, and beautiful atmosphere, you can be assured that your dining experience will be a memorable one. Join them as they playfully explore the world's cuisines and engage others cultures' flavors in unimagined ways that are rarely seen in the Midwest, combining classical recipes and techniques to create new flavors and presentations. Monday - Thurdsay 11:00-10:00 pm, Friday - Saturday 11:00-11:00 pm, Sunday 10:00 - 9:00 pm

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Experience India Palace 5 Time Winner of RFT's "Best Indian Restaurant" 7 Days a Week Lunch Buffet: 11:30 am - 2:30 pm Dinner Buffet:5:30 pm - 10:00 pm Corner of Natural Bridge & Lindbergh Take Natural Bridge East of Lindbergh, turn right on Schuette Dr., right on Hunter Dr. to Best Western on left. For online coupons visit www.adpagesmagazine.com

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feastSTL.com

MAY 2012

FEAST FAVES

| shop-o-matic

Friar Tuck 314.918.9230

A WORLD OF LOCAL WINE While Friar Tuck has seven locations across Missouri and Illinois, its original location in Crestwood boasts what many consider to be the largest selection of local wine in the St. Louis area. “This is where a lot of our customers discover local wine for the first time,” says manager Jim McAvoy. He views the comprehensive selection as an opportunity to educate consumers on the diversity and character of Missouri and Illinois wines. “People think of local wines as just being sweet,” says McAvoy. “Sure, some are sweet, but the majority of local wines are very complex. There are so many styles and flavors to experience.

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Crestwood

Winemakers in this region are experimenting and being really creative with their bottlings.” He tends to introduce newcomers to local wine by suggesting a Norton or Chardonel, and Friar Tuck often holds in-store tastings that expand the conversation to lesser-known varietals. “Exploring local wine becomes an adventure,” says McAvoy. “It starts with one really good bottle that defies the stereotype and evolves into true pride in what local winemakers can achieve.”

– B.W.

9053 Watson Road, Crestwood friartuckonline.com

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JIM MCAVOY’S GO-TO BOTTLES FOR DISCOVERING LOCAL WINE | 1 | Westphalia Vineyards Norton Reserve 2009. McAvoy finds this Westphalia bottling to be a standout representation of Missouri’s state grape. It’s a dark and spicy wine with a little bit of oak from a winemaker PHOTOGRAPHy by Laura Ann Miller

that boasts no added sulfites in the making of its wines. | 2 | Adam Puchta Winery Vignoles. This fruity, off-dry, easy-drinking white is considered a house favorite at Friar Tuck. | 3 | Chaumette Vineyards & Winery Chardonel Reserve 2009. Offering a splendid introduction to the world of Chardonel, this fruit-forward bottling is reminiscent of Chardonnay with a more complex edge to it, McAvoy says.

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Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2012

2012

BUICK VERANO

Suntrup Buick • GMC 4200 N. Service Rd. • I-70 and Cave Springs 639-939-0800 • www.suntrupbpg.com *See dealer for details. Ad vehicle not compatible with any other dealer promotions.

feastSTL.com

MAY 2012

FEAST FAVES

| what we’re buying

Outdoor Dining To Go

It’s time again for outdoor festivals and impromptu picnics. These products bring style to dining on the go. – B.W.

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| 1 | Elise paper napkins, $6 to $8 per pkg; World Chess Hall of Fame, 4652 Maryland Ave., Central West End, worldchesshof.org | 2 | Terracotta Wine Cooler, $94, and Terracotta Wine Carafe, $98; dwr.com | 3 | Yellow Picnic Cooler, $62.95; Crate & Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.com | 4 | Magis Folding Air-Chair, $199; Centro Modern Furnishings, 4727 McPherson Ave., Central West End, centro-inc.com | 5 | Wine and Dine Plate, $8.95; Crate & Barrel | 6 | Black + Blum lunch pot and bento box, $22 each; World Chess Hall of Fame

Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2012

Cook up a

great rate

with

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MAY 2012

Chicken Dinner Sundays -@$ #6" 3CA3<"6 0A66"! >"B #6" 3CA3<"6 0A66"! &?(( Expires May 31, 2012. Dine-in only.

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Fin Japanese Cuisine Fin is the perfect balance of traditional and modern Japanese cuisine in a relaxing ambiance Steam Gindara Black cod steamed in light brown sauce, fresh galia and fresh ginger. Tiger Roll ‰= A Tiger role is filled with shrimp tempura, cream cheese. asparagus, cucumber, topped with a slightly spicy crab meat salad. Fin is now offering delivery within three miles radius

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Great Wines & Specialty Beers Wine Shop & Tasting Bar...Whether you’re a seasoned wine drinker with a specific palate or a new wine drinker unsure of what to try or what you might like, Chateau La Vin is the place for you. Just a short drive to Columbia, IL brings you to Chateau La Vin, the St. Louis region's newest wine shop and tasting bar! Come enjoy our warm and cozy setting, taste some old favorites and tempt your palate with something new! Enjoy our cheese selections along with your wine and make it a fun afternoon or evening with friends. Wine not your thing? We have a great selection of specialty beers, too! +B$A$ .$?! A#C% $" =B#::% ;B$!5A$5

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Our BBQ is served with sauce on the side JV's was the former home of the Schorr family brewery, which was built in 1880's and operated up until prohibition years. There are three fermenting cellars below street level; the third story down is now under water. JV's has been in operation under the same management for 27 years. We serve the best in hickory smoked pork and chicken. Our ribs and chicken are smoked for five hours, while our brisket and pork butts are smoked for over 14 hours for full flavor. Our BBQ is served with sauce on the side, because we can. We are Happy to be celebrating our 27th year in business!! 547.'$+/- ))0!."6&*2! 1 %/# 3 (0, ))0!.82!

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Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2012

MY STUFF

Wine lovers have another reason to raise a glass: Parker’s Table is back and it’s bigger and better than ever. When the wine and food shop closed its Clayton doors three years ago, a collective whimper could be heard among our city’s oenophiles, particularly those with a penchant for Italian vintages. Now Jonathan Parker (who happens to have spent a brief few months as assistant winemaker at Mount Pleasant Winery) has re-opened his shop. “The community of friends and cooks that came to the Clayton store is finding their way back,” says Parker. “People are remarking that [the new space] feels like a brighter, more nostalgic version of the old place.” How is the new place different? No. 1, space. We have space to carry a balanced depth of inventory that wasn’t possible before. We have room to host better tasting events, too. No. 2, access. Customers used to tell me they had driven around the block twice before finding a place to park at the old location. Any day of the week, any time of the day, customers can get a spot right outside the door at Oakland and Yale avenues. And you’re selling more than wine, beer and spirits. Right, the pastas are in now. We have a larger area devoted to tea and coffee. Most of the olive oils and vinegars are back and we have some ideas that will roll out at intervals through the next couple of years. What do you wish people knew about wine? How easy it is. How would you characterize Missouri wine? The Little Engine That Could. The years of effort and ingenuity that so many Missouri winemakers have put into making quality wines are really impressive. I tend toward winemakers making wines that are unique to Missouri, rather than those trying to be like California. What are your top picks if someone is seeking out a local wine to try? Bethlehem Valley Chardonel and Norton are both outstanding. Favorite junk food? When I was growing up in Tennessee, my grandfather would take us to little wood-frame grocery stores at places like Four Corners or Beech Grove and buy us Nutty Buddies. Since moving to St. Louis, I’ve graduated to Ronnie’s Rocky Mountain Drumsticks, but it’s hard to call that junk food. Favorite cheap drink? Well water. Growing up where I did, lots of people had water wells. Depending on the location, different wells draw different tasting water. What would be your last meal? So many options! Why can’t I have nine lives? My revert-to-childhood choice would be: sliced tomatoes with a little salt, baked scalloped potatoes in butter, boiled sweet corn, spinach salad and a roast cooked in herbs and dark cherry concentrate … and fried chicken. Why not? It’s my last meal! 32

feastSTL.com

MAY 2012

owner, Parker’s Table written by Catherine Neville

SHOT ON LOCATION AT Ars Populi Gallery

Parker’s Table 7118 Oakland Ave. Richmond Heights 314.645.2050 parkerstable.com Visit feastSTL.com to read the full interview with Jonathan Parker.

PHOTOGRAPHY By Jonathan Gayman

Jonathan Parker

Friday Night Dinner Patio Series! BOB CASE & STEVE VOGEL PREFORMING LIVE

Delicious Appetizers and entrees, fully stocked bar & live music, all on the beautiful patio.

1 FREE APPETIZER

(sauteed mushrooms, German Potato Chips, or Hot Wings) with the purchase of two adult entrees. J@4 FCC,?:$O( >,<,>6F:$@O< *@>

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Old Hickory Golf Club The Bistro at Old Hickory offers unique charm, a beautiful view, and delicious options for everyone. Join us for lunch, dinner or your next big event. Membership is not required for a dining experience you are sure to treasure.

www.LisaArnoldPhotography.com

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FromElegant EleganttotoIndie, Indie,We’re We’reYour YourCaterer Caterer From The experts at Hollyberry can create an event that’s as special as you

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Mother‘s Day Brunch in St. Charles Come experience the culinary creations of our new Executive Chef Roland Scheller, CEC, at an elegant Mother‘s Day Brunch at the Saint Charles Convention Center on Sunday, May 13th. This year, the menu includes a variety of cheese and fruit displays, smoked salmon, an Omelette Station, a French Toast & Pancake Station, a Carving Station with Prime Rib Au Jus, Chicken Picatta, Pork Loin, Smoked Beef Brisket, and an assortment of Desserts including Blueberry Bread Pudding, Strawberry Shortcake, and Crème Brulee. For tickets, go to www.stcharlesconventioncenter.com/MothersDay or call 636-669-3000. Seating times range between 10:30 am and 2 pm. Reservations required. Adults - $27.00, Children (ages 4-12) $12.50. Includes tax and gratuity.

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MAY 2012

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A Place for Every Taste. Anyone can provide you with food. Not surprisingly, that’s what most caterers promote. At Catering St. Louis, we approach things differently. We focus on the entire event, creating the mood, atmosphere and surroundings you’ll remember long after the plates are cleared. With us, you’ll see that service is every bit as important as food. From the exquisite to the everyday, our food dazzles. Whether you’re planning a casual corporate open house or a wedding celebration adorned with all the trimmings, we create the moment. Perfectly. Completely. Precisely. D$99<5;$ 8<7@J$>@N I@;=+J ! 2<;+97 B@;! .$9$7<; 6+J7+; ! 07A E<5$9 :;7$979L I5$N= -<;N=L9 2@$; B@4$N$<J $J 2<;+97 B@;! ! 6$7H 6<77@(+ <J 6&<57+@5 ! CN$4@ <J 7&+ G$NN 2<;+97 B@;! F+3+N 8<1 ! /&;++ 8@;J 2@;M ! 8<@7&<59+ $J 2<;+97 B@;!

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feastSTL.com

MAY 2012

gadget a-go-go

Put to the test

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Wine

Keys

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written by Pat Eby

Photography by Laura Ann Miller

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The Klaw by Oenophilia

True Double-Hinge Corkscrew

PROS

With its built-in bladeless foil cutter, rubberized black finish and springtensioned hinge on the foot, the Klaw is built for comfort, safety and speed. Corks slide smoothly out with nary a hitch each time. User-friendly and well-designed for the now-and-then wine drinker.

Stylish and elegant, this wine key sports the smooth feel and satisfying heft of a well-loved pocketknife. The curved wooden handle, with its ergonomic design, keeps hands comfortable as the process unfolds. The double-hinged foot helps the lever lift corks with ease. Cutter, hinge and screw snap out of the housing with a satisfying crispness.

CONS

Not a sleek and glamorous wine key. Directions on the packaging give good information, but a drawing or two would help make the steps clearer. $7.99; Saint Louis Cellars, 2640 S. Big Bend Blvd., Maplewood, saintlouiscellars.com

CONS

Curved and gorgeous as it appears, the serrated-knife foil cutter, like its less elegant counterparts in other keys, still takes several turns to remove foil. $11.99; VomFASS, 7314 Manchester Road, Maplewood, vomfassslmo.com

Screwpull Compact by Le Creuset PROS

Not strictly a wine key, but this clever compact opener doesn’t require strength or coordination. It unfolds to make a handle that turns the Tefloncoated worm into corks with the twist of a wrist. Folded, this key measures just over 6 inches long, perfect for tucking in a picnic basket. Includes a serrated foil cutter and a bottle opener. CONS

The unit feels flimsy, but the packaging includes a hard-plastic hinged carrying case. Keep the case for storing this lightweight key. $20; Terra, 11769 Manchester Road, Des Peres, terrastl.com

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The Classic Collection Boomerang by Oenophilia

Trader Joe’s Favorite Cork Puller PROS

PROS

Sleek, industrial good looks in a compact tool at a low price make the Boomerang a go-to opener for moderate wine drinkers. The bladeless cutter slides open to fit most bottles and gives a clean, quick cut. The worm snaked into corks without a sound. The foot is single-hinged, but a sliding axis makes cork removal nearly painless. Includes a bottle opener too. CONS

Good coordination and strength are required to get this one right. With practice, it becomes easy but still not effortless. $7.99; The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com

A better-than-adequate wine key at a tiny price from the company that brought us Two-Buck Chuck. Designed with a double-hinged foot, a bottle opener and a knife for cutting foil. For just two smackers, buy several – one for the picnic basket, one in the bike bag and another for the glove box. CONS

The handle is slender, a little on the short side and emblazoned with Trader Joe’s logo in bright red. The key takes some strength, and the slender handle makes for stress on hand bones and knuckles. The foil knife protrudes at an awkward angle. $1.99; Trader Joe’s, multiple locations, traderjoes.com

C h ec

k pa g o u t e

42!

W h at to l ook for : Handle and heft: Check how the key’s weight, length and width feel in your hand because the handle acts as a lever. Small differences in handle length and width affect both grip and comfort. Lighter and heavier tools perform equally well, so heft is a personal preference. Screw: Look for a screw – also called a worm – with a sharp tapered point and a smooth finish for controlled turns into the cork. Most models tested have a black Teflon coating on the screw, but coated and uncoated worms turn with equal ease. However, the coated ones squeak as they spin into the corks. Rather loudly.

Foot: The foot fits against the bottle lip and helps lever out the cork. Double-hinged models give a midpull assist but require repositioning the foot. Single-hinged feet take more arm and hand strength. Examine feet for solid construction and strong materials. Foil cutter: Whether it includes a serrated knife or a bladeless cutter, a wine key with a built-in cutter keeps everything you need to open a bottle at hand. Overall, bladeless cutters seem safer; plus they strip foil cleanly off the bottles in a flash. The knives take more time, require careful attention to avoid slips and don’t work as well.

Follow our step-by-step illustrated guide to using a wine key in this month’s How To. Pick your favorite key and open any of the great local wines found in this issue. Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2012

ON the shelf

BEER written by Michael Sweeney

SPIRITS written by Chad Michael George

The creator of STLHops.com and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the craft beer manager at Lohr Distributing.

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

Avery Brewing Co.’s White Rascal

Averna Amaro

STYLE: Belgian Witbier (5.6% abv) AVAILABLE AT: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace. com; $9.29 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles) Pairings: Pepper Jack • Strawberry salad

Belgian witbier was one of my first introductions into the world of craft beer. The creaminess of the wheat and the addition of spices such as coriander lead to a truly marvelous brew. Avery does the style justice by keeping White Rascal effervescent, fruity and exhilarating, making it a perfect May beer.

Tallgrass Brewing Co.’s 8-Bit Pale Ale STYLE: American Pale Ale (5.2% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Randall’s Wines & Spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $7.99 (four-pack, 16-oz cans) Pairings: Carnitas • Asiago

There has been a quiet hop revolution happening in the Southern Hemisphere. The Galaxy hop, which is the main hop in 8-Bit, comes all the way from Australia. The Galaxy has a bright citrusy note that pairs amazingly well with this beer’s caramel malt body. And since it comes in a can, you can take it to those summertime destinations that don’t allow bottles.

Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.’s Zwickel STYLE: Zwickel (5.1% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., 3229 Washington Ave., Midtown, urbanchestnut.com; $5 (20-oz draught) and $8.99 (four-pack, pint bottles available mid-May) Pairings: Bratwurst • Crusty pretzel

When Urban Chestnut’s co-founder and brewmaster, Florian Kuplent, opened up the brewery, he brought some underrepresented styles of beer with him. A Zwickel is an unfiltered lager and therefore is slightly cloudy. This beer has a wonderful grainy note that makes it very fresh and always refreshing.

Provenance: Sicily, Italy (32% abv) Available at: Randall’s Wines & Spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $29.99 Try it: As a substitute for vermouth in your favorite Manhattan recipe

Averna, like Cynar, is becoming a more prominent staple in bars, and rightfully so. This slightly sweet and viscous liqueur has a heavily spicy and citrusy nose. In the mouth, the bitterness takes over quickly, with just the slightest hint of anise. It’s surprising we’re just now noticing the wonderful world of Italian bittersweet digestifs, and Averna Amaro is a perfect example of just how gorgeous the amaro segment can be.

Cynar Provenance: Italy (16.5% abv) Available at: Friar Tuck, multiple locations, friartuckonline.com; $24.99 Try it: As a substitute for Campari in your favorite cocktail

Not new to the market, but dear to my heart, this artichoke-based digestif is becoming more popular on back bars around town. Don’t let the large artichoke on the label scare you off; artichoke is not one of the prominent flavors in this complex bitter. It starts with a touch of sweetness and an almost creamy texture. The bitterness, akin to quinine, takes over quickly and holds on tight through the finish with a touch of cinnamon and allspice. The low alcohol content makes this a great addition to soda water for an after-dinner stomach settler as well.

Hudson Manhattan Rye Whiskey Provenance: Gardiner, N.Y. (46% abv) Available at: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $37.99 (375-ml bottle) Try it: Neat, please

Tuthilltown Spirits' aged and unaged whiskeys are musthaves for serious whiskey drinkers. New York state was known for rye whiskey production before Prohibition, but this is the first rye produced in the state in more than 80 years. This bottling is made with 100 percent locally sourced rye grains, and the water used in the fermentation and distillation processes comes from local reservoirs. This whiskey is slightly sweet with vanilla, spicy with almonds and cinnamon, and a little toasty and bitter on the finish.

OUR TOP PICKS FOR MAY Pouring wine photography by ©iStockphoto.com/Lauri Patterson

WINE written by Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann shares her passion for all things epicurean through her event and consultation business, which is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.

2011 Opala Vinho Verde Provenance: Portugal Available at: Whole Foods Market, multiple locations, wholefoodsmarket.com; $7.99 Pairings: Shellfish • Green salads

One would be hard-pressed to find a white more refreshingly suited to spring produce than Vinho Verde (translation: green wine). Not only low in alcohol, this white also has a slightly spritzy texture, offering an invigorating surprise on the palate. Delicate citrus, apple and pear make this tongue tingler a perfect complement to spring flavors.

2010 Luciano Sandrone Dolcetto d’Alba Provenance: Piedmont, Italy Available at: Saint Louis Wine Market & Tasting Room, 164 Chesterfield Commons E., Chesterfield, stlwinemarket.com; $23 Pairings: Saltimbocca • Tomato and barbecue sauces • Asiago

With a name meaning “little sweet one,” this grape intrigues long before you open the bottle. This fresh and fruity Italian red shows commanding notes of black cherry followed by shades of licorice and mint. The tannic structure is soft and the acidity is intense and focused because of stainless steel fermentation. Serve well-chilled.

2010 Vinum Cellars Chenin Blanc/Viognier Provenance: California Available at: Straub’s Markets, multiple locations, straubs.com; $11.99 Pairings: Beet salad • Goat cheese • Gruyère fondue

This blend marries crisp and vivacious Chenin Blanc from Clarksburg with round and juicy Viognier from Paso Robles. The result is a tropical explosion on the nose followed by parallel flavors of pineapple, mango and guava. Touches of honeyed sweetness, floral jasmine and spicy clove give the wine’s finish a nudge of complexity.

Join Angela Ortmann and FEAST publisher Catherine Neville for a happy hour wine tasting at EdgeWild on Thu., May 17, at 6pm. RSVP to rsvp@stlwinegirl.com.

JOIN US! Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2012

mystery shopper

Horseradish Potato Salad By Darin Jennings, Hartford Coffee Co.

When the Hartford team members wanted a potato salad that tasted a tad different and a bit zingy, they experimented with horseradish. The delicate balance between tuber and root, of smooth potato and tangy horseradish, makes this piquant side a customer favorite. Make a day ahead for best results. Serves | 6 to 8 | baked potatoes, skin on, cut into ½-inch cubes finely chopped red onion finely chopped celery finely minced parsley mayonnaise prepared horseradish freshly ground black pepper salt

| Preparation | In a large bowl, gently toss diced baked potatoes with onion, celery and parsley. In a different bowl, combine mayonnaise, horseradish, pepper and salt and stir to blend the dressing evenly. Pour the dressing over the potatoes and gently turn with a spatula. Take care not to overmix.

MEET: Horseradish Root Horseradish brings us closer to God. During Passover, for many Jews, it represents the bitterness of enslavement. Others experience a sacred moment after eating too much horseradish, when the insane pain rocketing through the brain becomes so unbearable that they plead to their God to make it go away. Eventually the tears subside, the fire dampens and their faith is once again restored.

Stop by 38

feastSTL.com

Written by Erik Jacobs

What is it?

How do I use it?

Fresh horseradish is: A) an incredibly pungent root

The uses for fresh horseradish most often revolve

in the mustard family of vegetables, which includes

around its prepared form. Grinding it fresh allows

turnips, kale, mustard greens and broccoli raab; B)

you to control the volatile oils that provide the

an anti-cancer compound; C) damned tasty; or D) all

intensity of spice. Make prepared horseradish at

of the above*. With a soil composition well-suited

home by processing the root with vinegar or water

to growing this intense veggie, Southern Illinois is

or a combination of the two liquids and a pinch of sea

home to nearly 85 percent of the world’s horseradish

salt. Add this prepared horseradish to sour cream

production. Who knew? Well, you would if you’ve

for a great accompaniment to a prime rib roast or a

attended the International Horseradish Festival, held

piquant counterpoint to smoked trout. It is essential

each year in Collinsville. Oh, and that green wasabi

in cocktail sauce for steamed shrimp and for that

paste that makes you screech like a banshee any time

eye-opening jolt in a great Bloody Mary.

you get a big dollop in your sushi? That’s most likely standard horseradish mixed with green food coloring.

* The correct answer, of course, is D.

to pick up more delicious recipes featuring horseradish root. Visit straubs.com for information on its four locations. MAY 2012

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jennifer Silverberg

2 lbs ½ cup ½ cup ½ cup 2 cups 4 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1 tsp

check it out!

Feast extra

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MAY 2012

tECH SCHOOL

Fondant STORY AND RECIPE BY Cassy Vires

Fondant is one of those things that most people either love or hate. There was a time when I was a hater. The beautiful finish it provides cakes is undeniable, but too often the flavor and texture left me longing for a light and fluffy buttercream. I became a convert a few years ago when a St. Louis baker, shocked by my hatred for fondant, made me try her handmade confection. The flavor was pure, and the texture was light and creamy – the stark opposite of the artificial-tasting, rubbery store-bought paste to which I was accustomed.

There are two basic kinds of fondant: rolled and poured. Rolled fondant is a derivative of sugar paste or marzipan, both of which date back to the 1500s. Rolled fondant first became popular in the 19th century for decorating specialoccasion cakes and has seen a contemporary resurgence with popular television shows such as Ace of Cakes and Cake Boss, which viewers watch with excitement as fondant transforms mere cakes into elaborate masterpieces. Poured fondant is most commonly used in glazing petits fours, éclairs and doughnuts and is made by simply melting rolled fondant in a double boiler. As more home cooks have wanted to try their hand at making fondant, a popular variation – marshmallow fondant – has surfaced. And though this version of fondant is quick and easy, the texture is far too soft and way too sweet for serious efforts. The homemade fondant recipe provided here takes only about 25 minutes to make. Once an initial batch of rolled fondant is made, it can be flavored, colored and used to decorate cakes or be melted down into a glaze. The leftovers, if there are any, can be tightly wrapped and frozen for up to three months. Cassy Vires is the owner and chef of Home Wine Kitchen. She received her culinary training in Houston and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes.

COOKING VIDEO!

More fun with fondant! Watch chef Cassy mix it up, roll it out and drape it on a cake.

BLOOPER REEL!

Need a good laugh? Check out our hilarious slip-ups in shooting this month’s Tech School video. Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone (get the free app at gettag.mobi), or watch the video in the Watch & Listen section at feastSTL.com.

feastSTL.com

MAY 2012

Rolled Fondant Yield | 2½ lbs | ¼ cup 1 Tbsp ½ cup ½ tsp 1 Tbsp 3 lbs

cold water powdered gelatin light corn syrup almond extract food-grade glycerin* powdered sugar, sifted and divided butter or lard for greasing

| Preparation | Place the cold water in a small metal bowl. Sprinkle the powdered gelatin over the water and let sit for 5 minutes. Place the bowl over a double boiler and melt the gelatin mixture. Add the corn syrup, almond extract and glycerin and stir until well-blended. Place 1 lb sifted powdered sugar into the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with the hook attachment. | 1 | Create a well in the center of the sugar and pour in the warm gelatin mixture. Mix on low speed until combined. It will be runny. Once combined, continue to add 1 lb of powdered

sugar, ½ cup at a time, until the mixture is no longer wet or sticky, reserving remaining powdered sugar for rolling out the fondant. You may need more or less sugar based on humidity.

plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature until ready to use.

Dust your work surface with powdered sugar. Place the fondant on top and sprinkle with additional sugar. | 2 | Gently grease your hands with butter or lard and knead the ball, sprinkling with powdered sugar as needed to keep the fondant from sticking, until the mixture begins to form a solid ball and has lost all stickiness. It will be soft and very easy to handle. A pastry scraper is good to have on hand in case the ball sticks to the countertop.

coloring on top of the fondant and then knead and stretch until the color is evenly incorporated. Add additional coloring as needed to achieve your desired color. Using a rolling pin, roll out the colored fondant to no more than ¼-inch thick. Using small cutters, cut out shapes, form small balls or cut into thin strips and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet until ready to use. Repeat with remaining fondant.

Divide the fondant ball into 4 pieces, wrap tightly with

check it out!

Feast extra

Take one of the pieces and place on a cutting board or countertop sprinkled with powdered sugar.

| 3 | Place 1 to 2 drops of food

* Glycerin can be easily found at baking supply stores, health food stores or online. Be sure to purchase only food-grade glycerin, not “USP,” which is for external use only.

| 4 | Go to feastSTL.com for

chef Cassy’s petits fours recipe.

|1|

|2|

PHOTOGRAPHY by Jennifer Silverberg

|3|

|4| Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2012

how to

Use A Waiter’s Wine Key written by Brandon Chuang

In today’s high-tech world of gizmos and gadgetry, we often forget that sometimes the simplest method of doing something is also the best. And while there is a surfeit of ways to open a bottle of wine – with any number of expensive and complex corkscrews to match – nothing is as efficient – and, yes, as quick – as a waiter’s wine key. Because, let’s face it, sometimes the most important thing about wine is how quickly you can open it.

Class Is in Session First off, we need to go over the parts of the key. | 1 | The pocketknife-like blade at one end is called a foil cutter. The screw that extends perpendicularly from the key is called the worm, and the metal piece on the end opposite the foil cutter is the foot.

Foiled! First things first, remove the top of the foil. You could simply screw directly through, but then you risk contaminating the wine with foil particulates. Grasping the shoulder of the bottle in your nondominant hand, place the foil cutter along the lip of the bottle’s opening. With your dominant hand’s thumb, put pressure on the foil cutter, using the lip as a guide. Twist the bottle until the cutter has completely severed the top part of the foil from the rest.

Screwed With the worm unfolded, nestle the point into the center of the cork. | 2 | Screw the key in by twisting clockwise. Make sure not to screw the key in too far, as there needs to be enough room to anchor the foot against the bottle. Having the worm embedded about three-fourths of its total length will give you the best results when you’re planting the foot.

Footwork Once the worm is in, move the key on its hinge, foot side down, so that you can plant the foot against the top of the bottle. | 3 | Once the foot is secured against the opening, simply lift the opposite end of the key up and away from the bottle. Depending on the size of the cork, you may have to screw the worm in a few more turns, readjust your footing and re-pull to get the cork completely out.

There are two basic types of waiter’s keys: Classic models have a foot with one anchor point, while newer keys have a hinged foot with two anchor points. Doubling up on anchor points means less potential need to readjust, which translates to faster, easier bottle opening. If you already have a tried-and-true key, there’s really no reason to upgrade, but if you’re just getting into the market, look for a model with a double-hinged foot.

feastSTL.com

MAY 2012

Illustration by Derek Bauman

DoubleJointed

Treat Mom to a German Experience Taste and discover authentic German dishes and traditional family recipes reminiscent of "Bavaria". Celebrate "Mother's Day", the Bavarian Way. Explore your culinary heritage, a special occasion, or just sit back and relax in a unique atmosphere. Try our seasonal entrees, our large selection of award-winning German biers, famous Riesling wines and "Gemuetlichkeit". Live Oompah and accordion music every second and fourth Saturday. Visit our website at www.roemertopfllc.com for pictures, music schedule and special events. &''#'4+ /'.'/)0,%34. /'-3!!'4+'+ 1 $/3*2. ('"-3!'

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Bella Milano O'Fallon, IL - Opening May 15th! Arguably the Best Italian Food in the Metro East!!!At Bella Milano, enjoy the relaxing atmosphere as the most exquisite Italian appetizers, entrees and desserts you have ever encountered stimulate your senses. Bella Milano’s daring combination of mood lighting, music and intimate seating perfectly mixes class and elegance with modern simplicity. Never before has the area experienced the tastes placed on your table with such superb services and affordability.

Join the Bella E-Club www.bellamilanos.com and receive a “no strings attached” $15 gift card, Complimentary birthday and anniversary dinner! Follow us on Facebook and Twitter for updates! Al fresco dining available! 744 B"H":8$ -;!? 2 0%);==#:/ <6 2 3'.*3&7*(1(( 2 '(39 @#CEF @E;E" B#CE" '41 2 +5>;!5GAD==" <6 2 3'.*34,*&'((

Sakura Japanese Restaurant & Sushi bar Sakura offers only the freshest ingredients in our Sushi, prepared by chefs who have over 20 years experience. Under new management, we now offer lower prices on all of our menu items, along with weekly drink specials and 30% off sushi and dinner entrées every Monday and Tuesday. Join us on Sunday's for $1 domestic beer bottles and 25¢ Sake shots. (Sorry, drink specials not available on Mother's Day, Sunday May 13th, 2012) Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 11am-2:30pm, 4:30-10pm Fri. & Sat. 11am-11pm, Sun. 11am-10pm

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MAY 2012

While we can't fly you to wine country, we deliver the wine country experience. Edge Wild Restaurant & Winery has become one of the most popular destinations in Chesterfield, serving affordable American fine wines with inventive American cuisine. We're becoming known for our delicious fine wines and savory dishes as well as our ongoing calendar of special events. This month, we're featuring • May 9 - Meet veteran West Coast winemaker PATTY GREEN of Patricia Green Cellars. • May 13 - MOTHER'S DAY Brunch Buffet • May 14 - Five-Course Dinner with noted Oregon winemaker and Edge Wild wine consultant CHRIS MAZEPINK Go to edgewildwinery.com or our Facebook page for the full scoop, daily updates and special offers.

550 Chesterfield Center Chesterfield 636.532.0550 edgewildwinery.com

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MAY 2012

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Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2012

EASY EATS

easy, egg-less ice cream STORY and Recipe by Lucy Schnuck

JOIN US!

The act of making your own ice cream not only ushers into your home the approach of summer but also impresses guests who assume this store-bought staple is a culinary challenge. The beauty of this ice cream recipe is that it doesn’t call for eggs, and therefore there is no tempering or cooking involved. And no one will taste the difference. The creamy and delicious results stand up to any egg-based ice cream on the market. To this simple strawberry ice cream we add delicious lemon- and mintinfused tuiles and homemade strawberry jam to highlight early-summer flavors.

rsvp: schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Serves | 4 to 6 | Strawberry Jam 1 cup crushed fresh

¾ cup 1½ Tbsp ¼

strawberries sugar fresh lemon juice vanilla bean, scraped

Strawberry Ice Cream 1 cup fresh strawberries

2 Tbsp + ½ cup 1½ cups 1 cup 1 1 pinch

CHEF’S

Lemon-Mint Tuiles 4 oz unsalted butter

Taking shape. To give your tuiles a little more dimension, lay them over the curve of a rolling pin or the edge of a glass upon removing them from the oven. Let them cool this way, and they will firm up and hold their new shape. Batter up. The tuile batter can be made up to a week in advance. When you are ready to use the batter, you may need to lightly remix it before adding to the piping bag. If your batter is too cold, it will be difficult to work with, so let it sit out for a few minutes to soften slightly before you proceed with the recipe.

4 oz ½ cup ½ 1 tsp 1 tsp 4 oz

Purée berries until slightly chunky or crush with a potato masher. Measure 1 cup of the smashed berries and place in a medium saucepan. Add the sugar, lemon juice and vanilla bean

PHOTOGRAPHY by Jennifer Silverberg

feastSTL.com

MAY 2012

check it out!

Feast extra

confectioners’ sugar egg whites, at room temperature vanilla bean, scraped finely chopped fresh mint lemon zest cake flour

| Preparation – Strawberry Jam |

Join FEAST and Schnucks Cooking School on Wed., May 23, at 6pm to make the tasty dishes in the menu above. Tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RSVP at schnuckscooks.com. Check out feastSTL.com for a step-by-step slide show on making this month’s dish.

sugar heavy cream half-and-half vanilla bean, scraped kosher salt

scrapings, and cook over low heat until sugar dissolves. Increase heat to medium-high and boil for 10 minutes, stirring frequently to avoid burning on the bottom. To test the jam, place a dollop on a plate and place the plate in the freezer for a few minutes. Run your finger or a spoon through the center of the dollop. If the line holds, the jam is ready. If the jam runs back together, it needs to cook a little longer. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. Any unused jam can be refrigerated for up to a week.

| Preparation – Strawberry Ice Cream | Chop and crush the strawberries, place them in a mixing bowl with 2 Tbsp sugar, and set aside to macerate. In a large measuring cup or bowl, mix remaining ingredients until well-combined. Turn on your ice cream spinner with frozen insert attached. Slowly pour the cream mixture into the spinner and allow to spin for 20 minutes or until it becomes thick and creamy. At this point, add the macerated berries and let them churn into the ice cream. Turn the machine

off and scrape the ice cream into a separate container. Cover container and freeze for 1 hour.

| Preparation – Lemon-Mint Tuiles | Preheat oven to 400ºF. In a large mixing bowl, cream butter and sugar together. Beat in egg whites a little bit at a time until fully incorporated. Fold in the vanilla bean scrapings, mint and lemon zest. Mix in the flour, being careful not to overmix the batter. Refrigerate for 20 to 30 minutes. Place the mixture into a piping bag or a zip-close bag with a corner snipped off. Pipe the tuiles into your desired shape on a parchmentcovered sheet pan or cookie sheet and bake for 6 minutes or until a few brown spots begin to appear. Leaving the oven door open, remove the tuiles with the brownest spots to a cool tray or countertop so that the cooking process stops. Remove remaining tuiles as they begin to brown.

| To Serve | Place a scoop of ice cream in a dessert dish and garnish with tuiles and jam.

Mother's Day Brunch Sunday, May 13th This is truly the most exciting brunch menu in the St. Louis area! Omelets Made To Order, Stir Fry Station, Pastas Made To Order, Carved Top Round Beef au jus, Boneless Breast of Chicken Modiga, Carved Honey Baked Ham, Shrimp, Talapia, Eggs Benedict with various Breakfast Meats, Chocolate Fountain and much, much more. Adults - $23.95, Kids under 10 - $11.95, Kids under 2 - FREE Limited seating available call for reservations. Complimentary Flower for your Mother. 16% Gratuity for groups of 8 or more.

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Join Us on Mother's Day for Brunch or Dinner! Turkish/Mediterranean food is a cross between Southern European, Greek and Middle Eastern cuisines. Aya Sofia Restaurant and Wine Bar offers a large variety of cold and hot meze (small plates) that are intended to be shared and will complement any of our entrees,including delectable lamb, beef, chicken, and fresh seafood. Lunch: Tues-Fri - Dinner: Tues-Sun - Sunday Brunch Happy Hour: Tues-Fri NIGHTLY DINNER SPECIALS AVAILABLE FOR PRIVATE PARTIES AND CATERING

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MAY 2012

dinner underground

Written by Jennifer Johnson Recipes by entre Underground Photography by Jennifer Silverberg Shot on location at Hermannhof Winery

lovers of adventurous dining gathered

recently in the 150-year-old, stone-carved caves of Hermannhof Winery for a candlelit dinner by entre UNDERGROUND, an innovative dining concept helmed by chef John Perkins that brings diners to a different location each month to enjoy a unique menu created around a theme. The dinner prepared by Perkins and his team for this Missouri-wine-themed event highlighted the wine-making traditions and triumphs of our region. Attending an entre UNDERGROUND dinner is an intimate experience; diners and chefs become acquainted on a culinary level through entre’s creative yet straightforward take on classic dishes that communicates a passion for simple, good food and the conviviality of the communal dining experience. The evolution of the Midwest wine industry boasts internationally lauded wines in nearly every recognized wine style. The transformation resembles many New World wine regions – think West Coast in the 1970s ‒ as producers develop progressive and relevant grape-growing and wine-making practices for our climate while guiding consumers toward classic wine styles. This commitment to “sense of place” makes Missouri wines splendid matches for entre’s emphasis on “dining in the moment.” Concepting the dinner with Perkins began by sitting at his dining table overflowing with 30 or so Missouri wines. We tasted through many great examples that demonstrated the diversity of local wine varieties and styles. Delighted by this experience, Perkins deemed “the stereotype of Missouri wine … was pleasantly turned on its head.” When it came to crafting his menu, Missouri varietals such as Traminette and Norton inspired Perkins to use, “a very simple, pared-down approach toward each dish,” emphasizing a balance of flavors within each pairing. His vision was, in his words, “Nothing overly complicated, and each plate with nothing more than three or four elements.”

LEFT: Chef John Perkins introducing the evening's concept and menu to diners. BELOW: The entre chefs prepared the hors d'oeuvre course in The Inn at Hermannhof's kitchen.

hors d’oeuvre Strussione Cave White Chambourcin Rosé, N.V.

Paired with: Reuben Sandwiches

on Rye Gougère

This rosé’s lively acidity underscores the rich, buttery flakiness of the gougère. Perkins highlighted the wine’s juicy, strawberry-raspberry fruit profile and slight earthy notes with a creamy and tangy version of Russian dressing and hearty corned beef on bite-sized Reuben sandwiches. Cave Vineyard’s rosé is produced from the Chambourcin grape, using free-run juice (the juice from the first press with the most sugars, acids and nuanced flavors). This juice was allowed to remain in contact with its dark skins for a short time, imparting a light ruby color. Chambourcin is a red-grape hybrid from the original Montpelier hybrid program of northwestern France. The grape grows well in the Midwest as well as in the Loire Valley and Australia. Cave Vineyard, Ste. Genevieve, Mo. cavevineyard.com

1st course

Hermannhof Chambourcin Vin Gris Rosé 2010 Paired with: Bison Tartare with Pickled Mustard Seeds and Crispy Egg Yolk The bright, wet-stone minerality and acidity of this wine – made from Chambourcin grapes grown in Hermann’s clay and limestone soils – set the stage for the bison’s melt-in-yourmouth freshness, without competing with the clean aromatics of the mustard seeds. Full-bodied and quaffable, with cranberry and citrus notes, Hermannhof’s rosé is a bit off-dry, with substantial acidity, emphasizing the crisp edges and creamy texture of the egg yolk. This wine is also produced from free-run juice. The grapes were harvested during cool nights; gently pressed to reduce harsh phenolic compounds; and cold fermented in stainless steel from yeast used for Grenache, a French grape from the Rhone Valley that, not so coincidentally, is the predominant grape in the great rosés of Tavel. Hermannhof Vineyards, Hermann, Mo. hermannhof.com

ABOVE: The entre staff set up ad hoc kitchens throughout the winery, where the evening's many courses were finished and plated.

2nd course

Chaumette Vineyards & Winery Traminette 2011 Paired with: Beet Soup with Spätzle and Crème Fraîche This dish, the wine – the pairing itself – are truly an ode to Germany, as this bottling steered Perkins’ creative palate toward the Old World. The earthy, creamy richness of the soup seems further seasoned by the Traminette’s restrained lemon peel, orange blossom and allspice profile. The wine's abundant acidity and underlying chalky minerality guide the soup to envelop the uncomplicated crunch of spätzle. Perkins felt this pairing was an example of “balanced accentuation and contrast,” illustrated by how the elegant tang of crème fraîche complements the off-dry style of the wine, and the simplicity of this dish prevents it from overpowering the wine’s nuanced complexity. Traminette is a hybrid grape that has retained the heady profile of its parent grape Gewürztraminer. Chaumette tames these bold tendencies by destemming, whole-berry pressing and cold fermenting the grapes. Chaumette Vineyards & Winery, Ste. Genevieve, Mo. chaumette.com Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2012

FAR LEFT: FEAST publisher Catherine Neville with Steve Smith, owner of The Royale.

3rd course

EdgeWild Vignoles 2010 Paired with: Trout with Brown Butter, Shaved Endive and Blood Oranges The trout’s perfectly crisp skin and nutty brown-butter flavor are lifted by Vignoles’ excellent acidity. The wine’s round, full-bodied mouth feel and light sweetness provide a nice contrast to the natural bitterness of the endive. Refreshment seems to be an ingredient here. Perkins created this restrained dish of four ingredients to underscore the wine’s passion fruit, mango and papaya characteristics, particularly from the juicy tartness that the blood orange lends to the dish. Vignoles grapes are challenging to grow because of their proneness to disease, but it is an absolutely enchanting wine to produce, with its stunning aromatics, ample acid and sugar levels, and stylistic diversity. EdgeWild Restaurant and Winery, Chesterfield, Mo. edgewildwinery.com

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MAY 2012

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4th course

Augusta Winery Norton 2009 Paired with: Pan-Roasted Duck Breast with Braised Mustard Greens, Grits and Smoked Cherry Compote Perkins designed this dish around Norton’s full-bodied nature, relatively high acidity and compatibility with wild game and red meat. He chose duck as a delightful alternative to the more obvious beef or barbecue. This dish and wine are meant for one another; the heartiness and finesse of each are mutually flattering. Simply cooked in its rendered fat, the duck is seared and roasted, and its richness and nuanced gamey flavors are tamed by this mouth-watering wine full of tobacco, chocolate and ripe cherry flavors, with subtle hints of bacon. The creamy grits and tart, smoky compote marry the pairing’s flavors further. Perkins notes that “the compote was the key element, bringing out the rich, dark, fruity aspects of the wine. The smoke hints at barbecue while not fully giving in to the expected.” Augusta Winery’s Norton is produced from 100 percent estate-grown grapes and aged in Missouri oak barrels that are sought after by top wine producers from such regions as Napa Valley, Spain and Italy. Augusta Winery, Augusta, Mo. augustawinery.com

LEFT: FEAST wine writer Jennifer Johnson with chef Perkins.

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MAY 2012

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Join Jamie Allman and the 97.1 morning team at the area’s premier Memorial Day event! It all starts at 10:00 for those in the 5K/10K run beneﬁting our veterans. Then, the food, wine and music begins!

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Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2012

LEFT: Diners entered through Hermannhof Winery's tasting room to reach the caves where the dinner was held. BELOW: Pancakes were cooked on a flat-top griddle set up in the back of the entre van.

5th course

Noboleis Vineyards Semisweet Vignoles Paired with: Black Walnut Pancakes with Whipped Crème Fraîche and Maple Syrup Breakfast for dessert is a great idea, particularly with Noboleis’ semisweet Vignoles. The wine’s tangerine, gooseberry and pineapple notes enliven this dish marked by the flavor of black walnuts and drizzled with just enough syrup to whet the palate. Perkins was careful to restrain the dessert’s sweetness so it would not overpower the semisweet wine. The small dollops of unsweetened crème fraîche and the fluffiness of the pancakes soften the wine’s healthy acidity. This wine demonstrates the magic of beautifully ripened Vignoles grapes at harvest. One of Noboleis’ strategies for producing a great Vignoles is to begin tasting grapes daily two weeks before harvest, cross-checking ripeness on the palate with traditional harvest measurements based on the grapes’ chemistry. Noboleis Vineyards, Augusta, Mo. noboleisvineyards.com 56

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MAY 2012

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MAY 2012

underground recipes Reuben Sandwiches on Rye Gougère By John Perkins, entre UNDERGROUND

When we made this dish for the dinner, each aspect of the sandwich was housemade. For making these delicious hors d’oeuvres at home, however, I recommend purchasing the corned beef or pastrami and kimchee. Kimchee is fermented cabbage, and its flavor can be challenging for some people. Its function here is to provide an alternative to the typical sauerkraut found on a Reuben sandwich. Look for kimchee at Jay International Food Co. on South Grand or at Global Foods Market in Kirkwood. Yield | 12 sandwiches | Rye Gougère 1 cup milk, skim or 2 percent

8 tsp 1 cup 4 ¾ cup 1 Tbsp ½ tsp

butter rye flour eggs grated Swiss cheese toasted caraway seeds salt

Rueben Sandwiches ¼ cup doenjang (Korean fermented bean paste)*

½ cup ½ cup 4 tsp 1 lb 1 small jar

ketchup mayonnaise rice wine vinegar salt corned beef or pastrami, sliced paper thin kimchee

| Preparation – Rye Gougère | Preheat oven to 400ºF. Cook milk and butter in a saucepan on medium-high heat until butter is melted and milk is simmering. Add flour all at once. Stir with a wooden spoon until a sticky dough develops. The mixture will be ready when a thin film forms around the sides and bottom of the pan. Transfer the dough to a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on low and add the eggs one at a time. Add in cheese and caraway seeds and season to taste with salt. Coat a 9x13-inch jelly roll pan with cooking spray and line the pan with a sheet of parchment paper. Pipe the dough in rounds onto the pan using a piping bag fitted with a medium-sized tip (or use a small to medium spring-loaded ice cream scoop to form balls of dough) and place them on the pan. Bake for 20 minutes, until the gougères puff up and turn golden brown. Remove from oven and let cool.

| Preparation – Rueben Sandwiches | In a small bowl, whisk together doenjang, ketchup, mayonnaise and vinegar. Season to taste with salt. Let sit 15 minutes to allow flavors to meld. Dressing is best when prepared a day in advance. For each serving, slice 3 gougères in half and place 2 to 3 slices of corned beef or pastrami on the bottom of each half. Dress with desired amount of kimchee and a dollop of “Russian” dressing. Leftover dressing can be kept refrigerated for 3 to 5 days. Place top halves of gougères on the sandwiches and serve.

cut of bison would work for this dish, provided you or your butcher removes all the sinew and silverskin from the meat. I suggest chopping the meat by hand, but if you feel unsure about your knife skills or just want an easier option, you can use a grinder. KitchenAid makes an excellent grinder attachment for its ubiquitous stand mixer.

* This recipe is from chef David Chang’s Momofuku cookbook. Chang, in turn, admits he took it straight from Tom Colicchio. No sense in fixin’ what ain’t broke.

Serves | 6 |

By John Perkins, Garrett Lathan and Brian Whitcraft, entre UNDERGROUND

Pickled Mustard Seeds*

1 cup 1½ cups 1½ cups ½ cup 1 Tbsp

yellow mustard seeds water rice wine vinegar sugar salt

Bison Tartare

¾ lb 3 Tbsp 1 1½ Tbsp

bison tenderloin, trimmed of all silverskin pickled mustard seeds shallot, minced high-quality sherry vinegar sea salt, to taste

Crispy Egg Yolk

2 Tbsp 6 1½ cups 1 cup 1 1 cup 3 cups

white vinegar egg yolks flour, plus more if needed milk egg bread crumbs peanut oil, for frying salt crostini

| Preparation – Pickled Mustard Seeds | Place all ingredients in saucepan over medium heat. Let the liquid come to a simmer, being careful not to let it boil. Simmer for 45 minutes to an hour. At this point, the mustard seeds should be slightly plump and the liquid noticeably thicker. Place in a container and refrigerate, uncovered, until cool. You’ll have almost a full quart of liquid and pickled seeds but will only use 3 Tbsp of the seeds for this recipe. Leftover seeds will keep well in the refrigerator and are great for perking up storebought salad dressings, mixing with mayo for a dipping sauce or tossing with beets for a surprising salad. | Preparation – Bison Tartare | Slice tenderloin against the grain, thinly. The slices should be approximately ¼-inch thick. Stack two to three slices and cut them again into strips about ¼-inch wide. Line up the strips horizontally to yourself and cut again into small dice. Place in a bowl and add remaining ingredients. Toss to combine and refrigerate until ready to serve. | Preparation – Crispy Egg Yolk | Fill a medium saucepan with water and bring to a light boil. Add vinegar to boiling water. Prepare an ice bath in a medium mixing bowl. Stir bubbling water in a counter-clockwise motion to create a vortex. Drop in one egg yolk and poach for 1 minute and 45 seconds. Remove yolk with slotted spoon and place in ice bath. Repeat with remaining egg yolks.

By John Perkins, entre UNDERGROUND

Prepare 3 small bowls: 1 with flour, 1 with milk and egg whisked together, and 1 with bread crumbs. Heat oil in a Dutch oven to 350ºF. Bread the egg yolks by dipping first in flour, then in the milk mixture and then in the bread crumbs. Make sure to coat evenly at all steps. Drop breaded yolks in oil and fry until golden brown. Remove yolks with a slotted spoon, place on paper towel to drain and dust with salt.

I chose bison for this dinner simply because I prefer the taste of bison to beef. You could certainly follow this recipe using the traditional preparation of tartare with beef, however. Although we recommend tenderloin, any

| To Serve | Place a small heap of tartare on each plate and make a small well in the center with a spoon. Place a crispy egg yolk inside each well. Dust with a salt, garnish with several pieces of crostini and serve.

* You can substitute red miso.

Bison Tartare with Pickled Mustard Seeds and Crispy Egg Yolk

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MAY 2012

Beet Soup with Spätzle and Crème Fraîche

Beets may be a hip ingredient at the moment, but many people have bad memories of the canned beets they were served as kids. This is unfortunate because beets are incredibly versatile; you can roast, pickle, thinly slice and fry them, even use them in ice cream and cakes. In this recipe, we’ve transformed them into a beautiful and fragrant soup as a foil to caramelized spätzle and tangy crème fraîche. Serves | 8 | Beet Soup

3 lbs 2 Tbsp 2 quarts 1 3 cloves 1 1 1 2 Tbsp 1 cup ½ cup

red beets olive oil salt chicken stock medium onion, chopped garlic, thinly sliced cinnamon stick star anise bay leaf thyme heavy cream crème fraîche

Spätzle 7 ¼ cup 2 cups 1 Tbsp 2 Tbsp

eggs milk all-purpose flour olive oil butter salt and freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation – Beet Soup | Preheat oven to 350ºF. Toss beets with olive oil and season with salt. Wrap each beet in foil and bake for 1 hour or until easily pierced with a knife. Remove from oven, cool slightly, and peel and quarter them. Place beets in a stockpot with chicken stock through thyme and simmer for 30 to 45 minutes. Remove cinnamon stick, star anise and bay leaf. Purée with a stick blender until smooth. Stir in cream and season to taste with salt. | Preparation – Spätzle | Whisk eggs lightly until just mixed, being careful not to introduce too much air. Add milk to the eggs and stir gently. Place flour in a separate bowl and slowly add egg mixture. Using a wooden spoon, mix gently. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Prepare an ice bath in a large mixing bowl. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Place a colander over the pot. Working in small batches, place spätzle mixture into the colander and push through with broad swipes, using a rubber spatula. Spätzle is done when it floats. Remove quickly and place in an ice bath. Once all the spätzle has been cooked, remove from ice bath and pat dry with a paper towel. Place a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add oil and butter. Once the foam subsides, add the spätzle to the pan, cooking in batches. Toss to coat in butter and cook until golden brown, tossing occasionally to ensure even browning. When all spätzle is cooked, season with salt and pepper.

| To Serve | Pour soup into 8 individual bowls. Top each with a dollop of crème fraîche and spoon a generous portion of spätzle in the bowl.

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MAY 2012

underground recipes Trout with Brown Butter, Shaved Endive and Blood Oranges By John Perkins, Garrett Lathan and Brian Whitcraft, entre UNDERGROUND

Serves | 4 | 2 Tbsp ½ lb 2 4 3 to 4

cooking oil butter, divided whole trout, butterflied Belgian endives salt and freshly ground black pepper blood oranges high-quality sherry vinegar

| Preparation | Add oil to a large sauté pan over mediumhigh heat. When oil begins to shimmer, add 2 Tbsp butter. Cook until butter foams. Shake the pan to move butter around and add 1 butterflied trout to the pan, skin-side down. Season the trout with salt as it cooks. Shake pan occasionally to make sure the skin doesn’t stick. Sauté for approximately 2 minutes. Set aside and repeat with second butterflied trout, adding more fat to the pan if

salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 cups

chicken stock

high-quality sherry vinegar

Grits 1 stick

butter

onion, minced garlic, minced

2 cups

water

2 cups

heavy cream or milk

you could substitute regular walnuts in this recipe, you’d

coarse-ground grits

miss out on the oily complexity that defines black walnuts.

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Black walnuts can be found at most grocery stores, but

1 cup

Smoked Cherry Compote 1 cup 1 cup ½ cup 1 cup

dried Bing cherries sugar red wine water

| Preparation – Pan-roasted Duck Breast | Preheat oven to 400ºF. With a sharp paring knife, score the skin of each duck breast in a crosshatch pattern. Mix salt and sugar together in a bowl and coat both sides of each breast with the mixture and let stand for 30 minutes. Remove duck from mixture and shake off excess salt and sugar.

Peel the outer layers of leaves from the endives. Using a

Add oil to an oven-safe sauté pan over medium heat. Add

a bowl and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the remaining butter to a saucepan and bring to medium-high heat. The butter will foam and then subside. At this point, the milk solids in the butter will begin to settle at the bottom and darken. The butter itself will become clear

By Garrett Lathan, entre UNDERGROUND

3 cloves

needed to ensure the skin doesn’t stick.

knife or a mandoline, cut endive into ¾-inch slices. Place in

Black Walnut Pancakes with Whipped Crème Fraîche and Maple Syrup Black walnuts aren’t unique to Missouri, but they’re an indigenous product. Their taste is distinct, and although

check out Local Harvest for the Missouri-grown variety. When making this recipe, note that you’ll need to start by making the crème fraîche the night before. Serves | 5 | Whipped crème fraîche

1 cup

heavy cream

1 to 2 Tbsp

buttermilk

powdered sugar, sifted

1 cup

Black Walnut Pancakes

1½ cups

1 cup

2 tsp

2 cups

all-purpose flour black walnut meal* baking powder powdered sugar, divided

the duck breasts skin-side down. Cook for 5 minutes, being

3 tsp

kosher salt, divided

careful not to scorch the skin. When skin is golden brown,

1 cup

buttermilk

turn the duck breasts and place the pan in the oven. Cook for 8 minutes, until the duck is medium rare. Remove from oven and set aside.

1 cup

eggs

whole milk

egg whites

salted butter

maple syrup

| Preparation – Braised Mustard Greens | Add bacon to a Dutch oven set over medium heat. Once the bacon is

| Preparation – Whipped Crème Fraîche | Whisk together

and savory brown sugar, remove the saucepan from heat.

softened and has released some fat, remove the bacon

cream and buttermilk. Let it sit at room temperature

and add the onion and garlic. Cook for 2 minutes. Add the

overnight, until thickened, and then place in fridge. Add

Trim each orange of its skin and pith. Holding each orange

mustard greens, turning with tongs to coat the greens with

crème fraîche and powdered sugar to a large mixing bowl

fat. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and continue to

and whisk until well blended and slightly stiff.

and fragrant. When it begins to smell like toasted hazelnuts

over a bowl to collect its juice, use a paring knife to slice between the membranes and release the orange segments

turn the greens until wilted. Add chicken stock, one cup at

(called supremes).

a time. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes. Remove greens

| Preparation – Black Walnut Pancakes | Combine flour,

with tongs and place in a large mixing bowl. Toss with a

black walnut meal, baking powder, 1 cup powdered sugar

| To Assemble | In a large bowl, toss the endive, blood orange

splash of sherry vinegar and adjust seasoning as needed.

and 2 tsp kosher salt in a large bowl and whisk until

juice, blood orange supremes, a splash of sherry vinegar and brown butter. Season with salt and pepper. Divide the salad among 4 dinner plates and top each with half a trout.

Pan-roasted Duck Breast with Braised Mustard Greens, Grits and Smoked Cherry Compote By John Perkins and Garrett Lathan, entre UNDERGROUND

Duck breast makes for quite a luxurious meal. The key to preparing it well is to render a good amount of the fat from the breast; otherwise, you’re left with a challenging texture. Serves | 4 | Pan-roasted Duck Breast

2 1 cup 3 Tbsp 2 tsp

duck breasts salt sugar cooking oil

Braised Mustard Greens 3 slices

1 4 cloves 1 lb

bacon, chopped onion garlic mustard greens, spines removed, leaves roughly chopped

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MAY 2012

incorporated. In a second bowl, combine buttermilk,

| Preparation – Grits | Add butter, onion and garlic to a

whole milk and eggs, and whisk until combined. With

Dutch oven set over medium heat and cook 2 to 3 minutes.

a clean, dry whisk, beat the egg whites with remaining

Add water and cream (or milk) and bring to a simmer. While

powdered sugar and remaining salt in a small bowl until

whisking the liquid, add grits in a slow, steady stream. Cook

stiff peaks form.

30 minutes, whisking occasionally. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Set a cast iron skillet over medium-low heat. Combine wet and dry ingredients and mix together with a spatula until

| Preparation – Smoked Cherry Compote | Prepare a

well incorporated. Fold whipped egg white mixture into

charcoal grill for indirect grilling. Place cherries in shallow

the batter until combined. Melt a small pat of butter in

metal pan that will fit inside your grill. Once the coals

the skillet. Place a ladle of pancake batter into the skillet.

have turned gray, add wood chips and the pan of cherries,

Cook until bubbles form in the uncooked side of the

placing the pan on the opposite side of the grill from the

pancake, about 3 to 5 minutes. Flip and cook for 2 minutes.

charcoal. Be sure the vent on the lid is directly above the

Repeat to make approximately 15 pancakes.

cherries. When the smoke dies down, add more chips. Smoke the cherries for about 30 minutes. Add smoked

| To Serve | On 5 individual dessert plates, stack 3 pancakes,

cherries, sugar, wine and water to a medium sauce pan set

top with crème fraîche and drizzle with maple syrup.

over medium heat. Simmer for 30 minutes. * Black walnut meal can be difficult to find but is easy to make. To make

| To Assemble | On each of 4 dinner plates, place a large spoonful of grits and top with braised mustard greens. Thinly slice the duck breasts and lay 3 to 4 slices on each mound of greens. Spoon the compote over the duck and around each plate.

your own black walnut meal, roast black walnut pieces at 350ºF for 10 to 12 minutes, until lightly toasted and fragrant. Allow walnuts to cool and then pulse in a food processor until finely ground. Be careful not to over pulse them into black walnut paste. Black walnut meal can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

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MAY 2012

Local varietals 101

Written by Doug Frost

Although the better-known vinifera varieties are seldom grown in Missouri, French-American hybrids (crossings between French vinifera grapevines and native American grapevines) remain the best solution for successfully growing grapes in the middle part of North America. Once upon a time, these hybrids offered uneven character and produced less-than-favorable wines. But in the last two decades, we’ve seen a remarkable transformation, with quality wines now the rule, not the exception. Making high-quality wines from these grapes is a function of the skill and, even more important, the experience of the grape grower and winemaker. Consistently world-class wine may likely become the norm in many American wine regions, including Missouri. Presently, the best dessert wines made in the Americas are produced from hybrid grapes, and many of them are made in Missouri. Here we introduce you to our region’s more common hybrid grapes. Turn to p. 76 for Sweet On Local Wine, an in-depth look at some notable locally made dessert wines.

St. Vincent Traminette

Parent grapes: Although it’s

Parent grapes: Traminer Rot (Gewürztraminer) and Joannes Seyve 23416

only about a half-century old, the parentage of this French-American hybrid, created by the brother of the originator of the Seyval Blanc grape, is uncertain.

Varietal comparison:

Varietal comparison: Pinot

Gewürztraminer

Noir or, perhaps, Gamay

Seyval Blanc Parent grapes: Seibel 5656 and Seibel 4986, two early-era French-American hybrids

Varietal comparison: Similar to unusual and light Italian varieties, such as Rossese

Flavor characteristics:

Varietal comparison:

The floral notes typical of good Gewürztraminer are better balanced in Traminette by tangy, citrusy acidity. That said, Traminette can sometimes be a bit over-the-top. Regardless, this is one of the most promising hybrid grapes found in the U.S. market, and lovely Missouri versions are finding a thirsty audience.

Although there are still dull versions in abundance, Chambourcin has shown extraordinary abilities in a variety of climates, and, at its best, lovely raspberry, strawberry and cherry flavors proliferate.

Sauvignon Blanc

Notable bottles to try:

Cooper’s Oak Winery Chambourcin, Crown Valley Winery Chambourcin, Jowler Creek Vineyard & Winery Chambourcin, Stonehaus Farms Winery Chambourcin

Adam Puchta Winery Seyval, Augusta Winery Seyval Blanc, Crown Valley Winery Seyval Blanc, Montelle Winery Seyval, Stone Hill Winery Seyval Blanc

Notable bottles to try: Blumenhof Winery Femme Osage, Cave Vineyard Traminette, Stone Hill Winery Traminette

Chambourcin

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MAY 2012

Parent grapes: Missouri features in St. Vincent’s past, but no one is certain precisely how. As with many older hybrids, we’re not sure about the parent grapes and exactly when they coupled. The hybrid might be a wild crossing between Chambourcin and Pinot Noir, found in Missouri a few decades ago, or it may be a vinifera crossed with one of grape breeder T.V. Munson’s Texas hybrids, sourced out of the Research Station at Mountain Grove.

Flavor characteristics: Crisp, tangy pear notes with lots of white pepper are typical of the grape. Some producers use a bit of oak, but it’s at its best when fresh and citrusy.

Flavor characteristics: This cold-hardy red isn’t particularly powerful or even flavorful. But with soft red currant notes and plenty of black pepper, it serves as a useful accompanist if not a good solo player.

Notable bottles to try: Les Bourgeois Vineyards Fleur de Vin (semi-dry), Stone Hill Winery Steinberg Red (semi-sweet), New Oak Vineyards St. Vincent (semi-sweet)

Vidal Blanc Parent grapes: Ugni Blanc and Rayon d’Or

Varietal comparison: Pinot Gris

Flavor characteristics: You’ll find apples and grapefruit in the drier versions and peaches and lush tropical notes in sweeter bottlings.

Notable bottles to try: Adam Puchta Winery Vidal Blanc, Heinrichshaus Vineyards & Winery Vidal Blanc, Mount Pleasant Winery Brut Imperial (sparkling)

Concord Parent grapes: No one is aware of the parentage of Concord. Along with Catawba, it was a dominant grape in the 19th-century wine industry. Since then, it has remained a familiar flavor to any American child; it’s used to make grape juice and grape jelly. Varietal comparison: There is nothing quite like Concord.

Flavor characteristics: The epitome of “grapey,” Concord has intense blue-fruit flavors (mulberries and boysenberries) along with powerful foxy flavors – floral, herbal, slightly animal.

Cayuga Parent grapes: Schuyler and Seyval Blanc

Varietal comparison: A white and lighter version of Catawba

Flavor characteristics: The foxy character of its parentage is ever present, but it can be charmingly fruity and floral.

Notable bottles to try: There are very few stand-alone Missouri examples.

Notable bottles to try: Baltimore Bend Vineyard Arrowhead Red, St. James Winery Velvet Red, Stone Hill Winery Concord

Catawba

NORTON Vignoles Parent grapes: Perhaps Pinot de Corton and Subereux, two French-American hybrids, but no one is sure.

Varietal comparison: Albariňo in the dry versions and lateharvest Chenin Blanc in the sweet versions

Flavor characteristics: When dry, it can have some seductive pear, peach, apple and pineapple notes. When sweet, the notes are even more complex, with an intermingling of citrus and floral elements and many more tropical flavors.

Notable bottles to try: Hermannhof Winery Vignoles, Montelle Winery Dry Vignoles, Stone Hill Winery Late Harvest Vignoles

Parent grapes: No one

Also called Cynthiana, these are two versions of the same grape, though some experts would argue otherwise.

Parent grapes: Its parents are unknown, though it appears to be an accidental vitis aestivalis and vinifera crossing or a vitis cinerea and vinifera crossing dating from the late 1820s and probably first isolated in Dr. Daniel Norton’s Virginia vineyard.

Varietal comparison:

Chardonel Parent grapes: Seyval Blanc

Varietal comparison: Like

and Chardonnay

Concord, only lighter in intensity and flavor

Varietal comparison: Pinot Blanc or Chardonnay

Petite Sirah on steroids

Flavor characteristics: This dense, powerful, red-black wine exhibits lashings of black fruits and dried fruits mixed with spices and red currants.

Notable bottles to try: Augusta Winery Cynthiana, Chaumette Vineyards & Winery Norton, Noboleis Vineyards Norton Reserve, Stone Hill Winery Cross J Norton, Tower Rock Vineyard & Winery Cynthiana

knows the parentage of this earlyAmerican hybrid; we just know that labrusca and some unknown vinifera vine got together some time ago and produced this grape. Thomas Jefferson was noted as saying it produced remarkable wine.

Flavor characteristics:

The quiet character of Chardonnay is rarely matched by this grape. The best versions treat it less like Chardonnay (enough with the barrel fermentation already) and let it simply be tangy and gentle. Pear notes with some soft lemony citrus are typical.

Though there are notes of soft red currant and strawberry, the character of labrusca grapes comes through with the typical floral, woodsy, even feral aromas that have been dubbed “foxy.” Like all hybrids, Catawba has rather intense acidity. Most Catawba bottlings include a good amount of sugar to balance that tartness.

Notable bottles to try:

Notable bottles to try: St.

Les Bourgeois Vineyards Chardonel, Montelle Winery Chardonel, St. James Winery Late Harvest Chardonel

James Winery Pink Catawba, Stone Hill Winery Pink Catawba, Ste. Genevieve Winery Lady Genevieve

Flavor characteristics:

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MAY 2012

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a year at

Montelle

Nestled in the rolling hills of the Augusta American Viticultural Area (AVA), Montelle Winery is among Missouri's oldest and most respected wineries. Here, owner and winemaker Tony Kooyumjian has been producing award-winning wines for decades.

winery Written by Brandi Wills

Photography by Gregg Goldman

Augusta was the first federally approved AVA, gaining the status June 20, 1980, eight months before the Napa Valley APA in Northern California. This wine region encompasses 11 square miles around the city of Augusta and started with three wineries: Montelle Winery, Augusta Winery and Mount Pleasant Winery. Now home to five wineries, the AVA offers unique glacial soils not found anywhere else in Missouri, and the surrounding geographic features help control temperatures and provide optimal conditions for grape growth. The Ozark Ridge forms a crescent around the area, deflecting cold north-to-northwest winds, while the water of the nearby Missouri River ushers in moderate temperatures. To produce an estate-bottled Augusta wine, grapes must be grown in the Augusta AVA and produced and bottled within its borders under direct control of the winery. Kooyumjian’s 50 acres of grapevines – including Catawba, Chambourcin, Chardonel, Norton/Cynthiana, Seyval, St. Vincent, Vidal and Vignoles grapes – are planted on the 300 acres he owns in the area. Kooyumjian helps grow the reputation of the Missouri wine industry by educating the public on the intricacies of Missouri grapes, supporting the area’s recent winery boom and working with local organizations to advance agricultural research for the state. But the award-winning bottlings he produces every year are perhaps his strongest contributions toward bolstering the image of Missouri wines. To understand how he does what he does so well, we glimpse a year in the life of Montelle. And it all starts in the vineyard with the grapes.

SPRING In April, the vineyard sees bud break, when the buds on the vines break open to reveal the new growing point of the shoot. A few weeks after the buds begin developing, excessive shoots are thinned and vegetative or nonproducing shoots are removed. During this delicate stage, the sloping Augusta hills help protect the vines from the damaging effects of a late frost. Kooyumjian plants his grapes on a 3 to 7 percent slope facing south (for red grapes) or east (for white grapes), and the air flow on these slopes moves the denser, cold air away from the vines and down toward the river. “Selecting where to plant what, how much sunlight it gets and what minerals you put in the soil all help you influence the wine you produce," says Kooyumjian. "The only thing you can’t control is the rainfall.” He doesn’t see a need for artificial irrigation systems in his vineyards, however, and he believes in using natural, sustainable methods that will preserve his land and his neighbors’ land. He takes further measures to protect his vines from spring frost by trellising them 6 feet off the ground, and, most important, he grows grape varieties that are slow to react to temperature changes, so high temperatures early in the year are less likely to prompt an early bud break. Viticulturists were especially worried about frost this year since the warm winter and high spring temperatures mimicked conditions of the Easter freeze of 2007, which cost Missouri grape growers 1.42 tons of grapes per acre compared to the previous year’s yield. Kooyumjian’s combination of practices helped Montelle retain 60 percent of its projected yield that year. This year’s spring frost caused varying degrees of damage in local vineyards, but Kooyumjian reports that only about 5 percent of his vines were affected.

SUMMER As the shoots grow, their positioning is vital to growing quality grapes. A high bilateral cordon vine training system controls the quantity of fruit produced by each cordon – the woody arms extending horizontally from the trunk of the vine. The more grapes a single cordon produces, the more the fruits’ flavors and aromas are Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2012

Top Row: Bud break in the vineyard; The vines are given a last-minute pruning before bud break to eliminate excessive budding points. Middle Row: Harvested white grapes arrive at the winemaking facility. Bottom Row: White grapes are pressed whole to impart the flavors and aromas of the skins into the juice; Owner and winemaker Tony Kooyumjian explaining the process of cold stabilization.

diluted. Cordons grown bilaterally, as opposed to unilaterally, have to grow only 4 feet instead of 8 feet, and this keeps the vines vigorous longer. Around the first of June, vineyard workers will position the shoots, either by hand or by machine, pulling them down toward the earth so they don’t tangle. This ensures that one cane – the fruiting portion of the vine – isn’t growing on top of another. If this happens, the nonproducing cane will suck up sunlight, blocking the producing cane below it. In most grape-growing regions, the canopy (the leafy growth) is trained to avoid excessive shading of the fruit. In Missouri, which is hotter and more humid than other areas, viticulturists want a canopy that filters the sunlight evenly onto the fruiting zones. In July, the leaves are pulled to create the desired effect, with thinner canopies on the north side of the vines and thicker canopies on the south side to shade appropriately.

LATE SUMMER & FALL As harvest time approaches, Kooyumjian heads to the vineyard to take samples of the grapes and test them for taste and chemistry. He tastes the grapes himself to assess maturity, and samples go to the lab to check sugar levels, acidity and pH balance. When it’s determined that the grapes have reached peak maturity, it’s time for harvest, which occurs between mid-August and mid-November each year. One or two days before harvest, crews inspect the vines for unripe or diseased grapes and remove them. Kooyumjian uses machine harvesting in his vineyards and believes this method results in better-quality wine. “Grapes are only at their prime maturity for a few days,” he says. “Hand-picking takes a long time, but a machine can pick a 10-acre vineyard in two to three hours and have the grapes back to the winery at their peak ripeness.” To prepare for harvest day, machinery is set up the night before. When the sun breaks just enough for crew members to see what they’re doing (around 5am), they fire up the machinery and begin harvesting. “You want to harvest the grapes at their coolest point,” says Kooyumjian. “Some people believe that’s at midnight, but it’s actually right before sunrise, after the grapes have spent the entire night cooling.” Grapes are rushed to the winery and inspected for immature fruit, debris and disease, and the de-stemmer removes grapes from the stems. White grapes, which at this point are about 60ºF to 70ºF, go into a chiller with 15ºF water to bring them to a temperature of 40ºF before they are pressed whole. Pressing the grapes at this temperature ensures that the flavors and aromas of the skins are imparted into the juice without the phenolics (which cause bitterness and off-flavors) and tannins. The juice is cooled to 35ºF and left to sit for one to two days so the solids settle. The clear juice is then transferred to a temperature-controlled stainless steel tank and innoculated with a strain of yeast conducive to its particular variety to begin the fermentation process. Forty percent of Montelle’s wines are sweet, made so by stopping the fermentation process before it has finished and leaving natural grape sugars in the wine. The fermentation process is stopped with cold to kill the yeast. The yeast is then separated from the wine using a particle separator, or centrifuge. Few commercial producers use this method for sweet wines. Instead, they complete the fermentation process and then add sweetness back into the wine with cane sugar or juice concentrate. When fermentation is complete, the wines are put through cold stabilization, where they are stored in stainless steel holding vessels for one to two weeks below freezing, at about 28ºF, to chill and remove potassium bitartrate crystals (cream of tartar), also known as wine diamonds. All of Montelle’s whites are stainless-steel-fermented, with only Vidal and Chardonel seeing a brief barreling in oak. After they are de-stemmed, red grapes are placed in fermenting tanks whole ‒ skins, seeds, pulp and all ‒ to impart color and tannins into the juice. After fermentation, the solids are removed and pressed to extract as much wine as possible. Red wines go through a second fermentation, called malolactic fermentation, to decrease the levels of malic acid and soften the wine. Sweet red wines are then cold-stabilized, blended and bottled. Dry red wines go into barrels for 13 to 24 months. Montelle gets 90 percent of its barrels from World Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2012

Top Row: Red wines are aged in oak barrels stored in a temperature-controlled room; The anatomy of a grapevine: The woody arms growing bilaterally from the trunk of the vine are the cordons. The thinner branches growing from the cordons are the canes, the fruiting portion of the vine where bud break occurs. Bottom Row: White wines are bottled using machinery specifically created for the Stelvin wine closure system.

Cooperage in Lebanon, Mo. Kooyumjian has worked with World Cooperage to create barrels to his preferred specifications, made of staves with tight grains aged 24 to 36 months outdoors. Barrels are toasted to a predetermined temperature to impart certain subtleties into the wines. During the aging process, the staff conducts monthly tastings from a sampling of barrels to ensure the wines are progressing correctly. When a wine has reached maturity, staff members taste from all the barrels and rank each as premiumgrade or blending-grade. Red wines are then cold-stabilized before bottling.

WINTER Grapes for Montelle’s icewine are harvested in November. Instead of leaving the grapes on the vine until after the first freeze of the year, Kooyumjian’s staff picks grapes at their full, extended maturity and freezes them artificially. This prevents the risk of losing grapes to disease and pests and subsequently allows Montelle to control the bottle price of its icewines, which are typically expensive. Once all the grapes have been harvested from the vineyards, the vines are prepared for dormancy, and the soils are amended. The vines are spur-pruned to renew the cordon. Spur pruning is a method in which the cane is cut back to a predetermined number of buds, which controls the amount of fruit produced the following year. The prunings are weighed to determine the vigor of the vines, and the vines are tied and renewed. The entire process requires 40 man-hours per acre.

THE FUTURE Keeping an eye on the big picture is one of the secrets to Kooyumjian’s success. He works not only to produce a good vintage every year but also to influence the prosperity of the local wine industry. As chairman of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board research committee, he advises the University of Missouri’s Institute for Continental Climate Viticulture & Enology (ICCVE) on the most important areas for research as well as on the educational needs of vintners and viticulturists. “Tony has been a leader in the Missouri wine industry,” says Jim Anderson, executive director of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board, an organization established to guide research and development of Missouri grapes and wines and to promote public interest in and patronage of Missouri wineries. “He has carved a path and made it easier for others to enter into the local wine industry.” In 1988, when Kooyumjian started making wine in Missouri, there were just over a dozen wineries in the state. The industry has grown significantly, especially in the past 12 years, with 116 wineries and over 400 grape growers in Missouri today. Kooyumjian encourages expansion and wants to see the Missouri wine industry have a greater influence on the wine world.

“I remind the crews on the vineyard that what they’re doing here isn’t just growing grapes; they’re making wine. So we take the extra steps,” says Kooyumjian.

He believes one of the greatest strengths of Missouri wines is the unique varietals that thrive in local conditions. Through his work with ICCVE, he guides research toward identifying more varietals that will prosper in our climate and hopes to see a greater variety of wines from local producers in the future.

Soils are tested for healthy levels of calcium, potassium and phosphorus, and minerals are added if needed. Compost is laid down to add microbes that deliver nutrients to the plants.

And if Kooyumjian sees something he deems good for Missouri wine, you can bet you’ll be seeing it soon too.

As the barreled wines back at the winery reach maturity, Kooyumjian and his son, Tom, begin the blending process. They taste through the blending-grade wines and experiment with combinations and percentages. After narrowing it down to two or three theoretical blends, they conduct blind tastings and tweak the percentages to improve the flavors. “Once we think the blends are where we want them, we take them to Cindy [his wife] to have the last word,” says Kooyumjian. Bottling happens on site, using machinery that can bottle up to 1,500 cases per day. Since 2005, all of Kooyumjian’s wines have used a screw-cap closure, a business decision that wasn’t met with overwhelming approval by fans of his wines. So why switch from cork to screw cap if it could potentially hurt your business? “Quality,” says Kooyumjian. Over the years, he had become increasingly fed up with bad corks. He estimated that one out of every 13 bottles he produced was afflicted with cork taint, which diminishes the wine’s aromas and flavors, imparting what Kooyumjian describes as a wet, musty cardboard odor. “People will forgive a large producer for a bad bottle of wine but not a small craft winery,” he says. In 2001, The Australian Wine Research Institute published its findings from a fiveyear study that showed screw-cap closures provided the tightest possible seal on a wine bottle, prevented oxidation of the wine and eliminated the possibility of cork taint. After reading this study as well as a great amount of literature on the subject, Kooyumjian began switching his wines, a few at a time, to Stelvin closures, which are made entirely of aluminum that threads onto the wine bottle neck and creates a tighter seal, keeping out oxygen longer than cork will. “I got a lot of letters and emails from unhappy customers who had fallen prey to the stigma of screw caps,” he says. But Kooyumjian knew it was the right move for preserving the quality of his wines. And the choice he made over a decade ago could be considered forward-thinking considering the number of wineries around the world following suit and making the switch.

TONY'S TOP WINES Visitors to Montelle Winery can purchase bottles on site to enjoy alongside the breathtaking views from the winery’s patio. Kooyumjian recommends the following wines, which can also be found at retail locations throughout the St. Louis area:

2009 Norton: Aged in Missouri oak, this bold red features a bouquet of raspberry, black cherry and cassis.

2010 Chambourcin: This full-bodied red bursts with blackberry, black cherry and spices and pleases the palate with a silky finish.

River Country Red: A semi-dry red that exhibits a hint of spiciness in its black cherry and raspberry profile and boasts a long, rich finish.

2010 Seyval Blanc: This crisp, fruit-forward white offers notes of citrus and tropical fruits with hints of pear in the lingering finish.

2010 Chardonel: A medium-bodied, stainless-steelfermented white with hints of apple, pear and fig in the bouquet.

2010 Dry Vignoles: This dry white exhibits crisp acidity with notes of strawberry and pineapple.

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MAY 2012

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Ste. Genevieve, MO

MAY 2012

sweet on missouri wine Written by Jennifer Johnson

Recipes by Simone Faure, The Ritz-Carlton, St. Louis

photography by Jonathan Gayman

pairing desserts with dessert wines is a fascinating subject, adding yet another element to the complexity of combining food and local wine: sweetness. to complement missouriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exceptional dessert wines, we worked with simone faure, executive pastry chef at the ritz-carlton, st. louis, to pair equally delectable desserts with five of our favorite local bottlings.

Valvin Muscat + clafoutis Pairing: Blumenhof Valvin Muscat 2010 + Blueberry Ricotta Clafoutis with Lemon Ricotta Crème Less commonly grown in the Midwest, Valvin Muscat is a winter-hearty, diseaseresistant hybrid that is nearly identical to its parent grape: Muscat, an ancient grape with many varieties still grown in France, Italy and other Mediterranean regions. It pairs delightfully with panna cotta, hazelnut biscotti or lemon meringue pie. With the dessert: The fresh, “grapey” nature of this wine and its honeyed, white raisin accents enliven the buttery, melt-in-your-mouth opulence of this “rich man’s custard,” found in most patisseries in France. Faure’s choice of fresh blueberries, instead of traditional cherries, lends a restrained tartness to this creamy dessert that is further accented by the wine’s semisweetness and candied-orange-peel notes. Blumenhof Vineyards and Winery, Dutzow, Mo., blumenhof.com Recipe on p. 86

norton port + chocolate pÂtÉ Pairing: Adam Puchta Signature Port, N.V. + Dominican Chocolate Pâté Adam Puchta produces the Signature Port from 100 percent Norton grapes in a style reminiscent of a ruby in its fresh cherry and dark-berry flavors. It is simultaneously evocative of a vintage port with its fig, smoke and dried-fruit nuances. Serve it with caramel-pear charlottes, Stilton cheese puffs or pecan-date tarts. With the dessert: This robust, velvety wine marvelously courts the elegant nuances of the organic, single-bean Dominican Republic chocolate, for which Faure has a deep fondness. This dessert is extraordinarily opulent yet relatively light. It transcends the palate; the chocolate’s aromatic, slightly floral and herbal components beckon the wine’s cocoa, tobacco and fig notes. Faure deems this pairing “very relaxing, prompting one to slump back into her chair and breathe deep,” as the romance between wine and dessert is quite compelling. Adam Puchta Winery, Hermann, Mo. adampuchtawine.com

although some ports and sherries were produced locally in the mid-19th century, only during the last 20 years has Missouri been wellrecognized internationally for its many stunning examples of dessert wine – from late-harvest wines to ports to sparkling wines. This accolade can be attributed to the grape varieties that grow best in Missouri and their ability to beautifully ripen and mature during our warm, long growing season. Missouri late-harvest wines are often produced from Vignoles and Vidal Blanc by allowing the grapes to remain on the vine well past harvest, concentrating sugars and flavors through evaporation, and then pressing and fermenting the grapes. Vignoles, Missouri’s darling grape, is an aromatic variety that can be vinified on a multitude of sweetness levels, and Vidal Blanc’s thick skins provide protection against pests such as migratory birds. Long hang time and high skinto-juice ratio make Norton an ideal grape for port – which is fortified with spirits to produce a sweet, high-alcohol wine – yielding concentrated, full-bodied wines of varying styles. Chardonel and Chambourcin, which interestingly are related to Champagne’s Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes, are often used in Missouri’s sparkling wines. The grapes suit the secondary fermentation process of Méthode Champenoise and the complexity associated with yeast aging. A true expert on the subject of sweets, Faure considered the varying sweetness of the wines as well as their levels of acidity; extraction; and, at times, tannins when conceptualizing her pairings. In the hotel kitchen, we tasted through the desserts and wines, adjusting ingredients in her recipes where needed to create a beautifully balanced flavor combination. It was quite the enjoyably laborious experience, and Faure confessed that her “preconceived notion of Missouri wine was simply wrong,” noting the complexity of the wines and diversity of dessert wine styles offered by local winemakers.

Dominican Chocolate Pâté The Dominican Republic is known for many great things. Its food, music and cigars are second to none. When I think of the Dominican Republic (affectionately known as D.R. by locals), however, I think of chocolate. Twothirds of the organic cocoa beans shipped worldwide come from the country. Dominican chocolate’s rich and earthy tones make for complex and aggressive dessert play. Finding Dominican chocolate will be easier than you think. Godiva makes an 85 percent Santo Domingo that is not for the faint of heart. Serves | 6 | 1 lb ½ cup ½ cup 2 cups 1 Tbsp 1 tsp ¼ cup

Dominican chocolate, chopped light corn syrup butter, cut into cubes heavy cream, divided coffee liqueur vanilla extract powdered sugar

| Preparation | Place the chocolate, corn syrup, butter and ½ cup heavy cream in a saucepan and simmer just until the chocolate is melted. Stir to evenly combine ingredients. Set aside to cool. Stir in the coffee liqueur and vanilla extract. Line a loaf pan or terrine mold with plastic wrap, allowing extra wrap to extend over the sides of the pan. (This step can be skipped if you’re using silicone molds). Beat the remaining heavy cream and powdered sugar with an electric mixer at high speed until stiff peaks form. Fold chocolate mixture into the heavy cream in three additions. Pour into the prepared pan and chill 8 hours or freeze for 3 hours.

| To Serve | Invert the pâté onto a serving tray. Remove the plastic wrap. Slice 6 portions and serve on chilled plates. Serve with fresh cream and berries if you wish; however, it is great as a stand-alone dessert. Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2012

Vidal Icewine + Vanilla soufflÉ Pairing: Montelle Vidal Icewine 2009 + Tahitian Vanilla Bean Soufflé with Salted Caramel Anglaise Montelle Winery’s icewine is produced from Vidal Blanc grapes that hang well past harvest – until around Thanksgiving – on southfacing, glacial, soil-rich hillsides for maximum sunlight, ripeness and maturity. The grapes are frozen and then pressed for optimal-quality juice. It’s great paired with seared foie gras and lingonberry jam on brioche toast, ginger crème brûlée or Benedictine blue cheese. With the dessert: Though Faure originally imagined a passion fruit soufflé for this pairing, she found that the wine’s refined fruit profile was diminished by the intensity of passion fruit and turned to a more complementary ingredient. The ability of Tahitian vanilla bean to enhance the flavors it’s paired with juxtaposes the soufflé’s fluffy texture and decadent sauce that contrasts caramel and salt. Its exotic nature integrates the concentrated apricot, honeysuckle and ripe peach flavors of this elegant, medium-bodied wine into a component of the dish. Montelle Winery, Defiance, Mo. montelle.com

Tahitian Vanilla Bean Soufflé with Salted Caramel Anglaise It’s always comical to watch my cooks anxiously peer through steamy oven windows as if they might will their soufflé into an upright position. The soufflé always rises. True, a soufflé can seem like an overwhelming task when you're faced with dinner for six and one of those guests is, say, your mother-in-law. Been there! Have no fear. The soufflé gods are on your side. Just remember that the soufflé gets its lift from a combination of heat building in your oven and properly whipped egg whites. So keep the oven door closed and fight the temptation to peek. Serves | 6 | Soufflé

¼ cup 2 tsp + 1 cup 3 1 cup 1¾ cups 5 2½ Tbsp 1 pinch 7

butter, plus more for greasing ramekins sugar, divided vanilla beans bread flour, sifted milk egg yolks cornstarch salt egg whites powdered sugar, for dusting

Salted Caramel Anglaise 6 ¾ cup 1 cup 2 Tbsp 2 pinches 1 cup 1 cup

egg yolks sugar, divided water butter sea salt heavy cream milk

| Preparation – Soufflé | Preheat the oven to 375ºF. It’s important to assemble and measure all the ingredients before you begin. Coat the inside of 6 ramekins with butter right up to the rim. Dust with 2 tsp sugar and refrigerate. Cut the vanilla beans in half lengthwise and scrape the pods to remove the contents. Add the contents to ½ cup sugar and use your hands to mix well. In a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat butter and vanilla sugar until blended. Add sifted flour and mix until sandy, creating a soufflé base. Boil the milk and add the soufflé base. Whisk rapidly for about 20 seconds. Remove from heat and stir in the egg yolks. Cover with plastic and set aside. Combine remaining sugar and cornstarch. Whip salt and egg whites until stiff peaks form. Fold in the sugar and cornstarch mixture. Fold this into the soufflé base and fill ramekins with the mixture. Place ramekins on a baking sheet and bake 15 to 20 minutes.

| Preparation – Salted Caramel Anglaise | In a medium bowl, mix together the egg yolks and one-third of the sugar. Set aside. Place remaining sugar in a small, heavy saucepan. Add water and turn stove top to medium-high heat. Stir just until the water and sugar are wellcombined. Using a pastry brush that has been dipped in warm water, brush down the insides of the pot to remove any loose bits of sugar. These sugar granules can lead to crystallization, resulting in a hard, grainy caramel that will need to be tossed out. Cook the sugar to an amber color while brushing the inside of the pot from time to time. Remove pan from heat. Add butter and salt. Gently whisk until butter is thoroughly combined. Stir in the cream and milk. Whisk in the yolk and sugar mixture. Return to the stove to thicken slightly. Remove from the stove and strain.

| To Serve | Immediately after removing the soufflé from the oven, dust it with powdered sugar. Just before serving, create a hole in the center and pour in the anglaise.

Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2012

spumante Blush + FRUIT cobbler Pairing: Stone Hill Spumante Blush, N.V. + Peach and Mango Cobbler with Fromage Blanc Ice Cream This bottling is produced from Catawba and carbonated to retain the rich, ripe aromas of this pink-skinned grape. It complements the flavors found in beignets, passion fruit mochi, dried fruit and strawberries dipped in white chocolate. With the dessert: This intriguing coupling demonstrates the important food-and-wine pairing principle of how the separate

components taste different when combined. Faure noted she was “quite pleased about the wine’s complementary nature to the Fromage Blanc ice cream, which can be startling to some” in texture and flavor. Fizzy, sweet and ripe with strawberry and wild raspberry aromas, this wine dances on the palate, preparing it for the dessert’s contrasting components of concentrated stone and tropical fruit flavors in the filling and the creamy, ever-so-slight sourness of the ice cream. In turn, the dessert highlights the wine’s melon and honey flavors. Stone Hill Winery, Hermann, Mo., stonehillwinery.com

Peach and Mango Cobbler with Fromage Blanc Ice Cream Cobbler, crisp, crumble or buckle ‒ I’ll take it any way you bake it. Growing up in Louisiana, I was privy to a world where fresh fruit grew year-round, and there was no shortage of ladies attempting to fatten you up with their prize-winning cobblers. What I did not grow up with was the delicious knowledge of Fromage Blanc, also known as Fromage Frais. Don’t confuse this soft-textured cheese with cream cheese; it is truly in a league of its own. Serves | 6 | Fromage Blanc Ice Cream

1 cup + 2 Tbsp 1 1¼ cups 5 1½ cups ½ cup

vanilla bean sugar milk egg yolks Fromage Blanc* mascarpone

Filling

8 4 1 cup ½ cup ½ cup 1 Tbsp

peaches, peeled, pitted and sliced mangos, peeled, pitted, and sliced softened unsalted butter, plus more for greasing pan brown sugar dark rum vanilla extract

Cobbler

1½ cups 2 cups 1 cup ½ cup 2 tsp ½ tsp 1 cup 1 cup

all-purpose flour granulated sugar brown sugar instant oats ground cinnamon salt cold butter chopped pecans

| Preparation – Fromage Blanc Ice Cream | Cut the vanilla bean in half lengthwise and scrape the pod to remove the contents. Add the contents of the bean to the sugar and use your hands to mix until wellincorporated. In a medium saucepan, heat the milk to a simmer. In a large bowl, whisk together the sugar mixture and egg yolks. Add the warm milk to the sugar-yolk mixture. Rinse out the saucepan and return the mixture to it. Heat on medium-low, stirring continuously to prevent the custard from burning. When the custard has thickened, strain and cool. Using a whisk, blend in the cheeses and freeze in an ice cream maker.

Our Readers’ 50 Food Faves

| Preparation – Filling | Preheat the oven to 375ºF. Butter the bottom of

Tell us what’s so great about food in St. Louis! In our anniversary issue (August 2012) we’ll be

a 9x13-inch pan. Mix all of the ingredients together in a large bowl until fruit is well-coated. Transfer the ingredients to a sauté pan and cook just until the peaches are tender. Remove from the stove and pour the fruit mixture into the prepared pan.

| Preparation – Cobbler | In a large bowl, mix the flour, sugars, oats, cinnamon and salt together. Cut in the butter with your fingers until the mixture becomes crumbly. Mix in pecans.

WANTS YOU!

celebrating all the things that make St. Louis a flavorful place to call home. The FEAST 50 will present our readers’ favorite dishes to prepare at home, which restaurants you love and your most treasured St. Louis food memories.

So share your thoughts and opinions with us!

| Assembly – Filling/Cobbler | Divide the filling evenly into 6 individual oven-safe dishes. Sprinkle with cobbler and bake for 45 minutes or until filling is bubbling and topping is crisp.

| To Serve | Place a scoop of Fromage Blanc ice cream over each cobbler and serve. * Fromage Blanc can be purchased from and delivered to your home by Fox River Dairy, 314.382.8700. It can also be purchased at Whole Foods Market.

Send your faves to editor@feastSTL.com. The best stories, ideas, tips and recipes will become part of the FEAST 50, a reader-inspired tribute to St. Louis’ love of food.

Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2012

Vignoles icewine + CHEESE fritters Pairing: Augusta Vignoles Icewine 2010 + Mascarpone and Goat Cheese Fritters with Fig Chutney and Port Reduction Augusta Winery’s estate-grown Vignoles grapes, picked well after harvest in early November, intensify this variety’s intriguing aromatics. This wine is produced only in years of minimal disease pressure in optimum conditions. Try it with ginger-lemon meringue ice cream, mango upsidedown cake or coconut cheesecake. With the dessert: Faure was enamored by this pairing, particularly the wine’s flirty fruitiness. Decadently crisp, sugar-coated balls of warm mascarpone and goat cheese seem destined for this mouth-coating, indulgently concentrated wine, revealing ripe flavors of kumquat, pineapple and strawberry. The dried figs and port reduction add additional depth to the pairing, softening the wine’s lively acidity while its lengthy finish grants the palate opportunity to contemplate this pairing’s beautiful complexity. Augusta Winery, Augusta, Mo. augustawinery.com Recipe on p. 86

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MAY 2012

dessert recipes

Clafoutis pictured on p. 76 | Fritter pictured on p. 84

Blueberry Ricotta Clafoutis with Lemon Ricotta Crème With a name like clafoutis, pronounced “kla-foo-tee,” could this dessert be anything other than French? Clafoutis originated in the Limousin region of France and has long been a favorite of mine. Although it is traditionally made with black cherries, it lends itself well to a variety of fruits. Serves | 6 | Clafoutis 4

1 cup 1 cup ½ cup ½ Tbsp 2 Tbsp ¾ cup 1 pinch 1½ pints

eggs sugar milk full-fat ricotta lemon juice lemon zest all-purpose flour salt blueberries, washed and drained

Lemon Ricotta Crème 1 cup heavy cream

½ cup 3 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 1 tsp

full-fat ricotta, drained granulated sugar lemon juice lemon zest powdered sugar, for dusting

| Preparation – Clafoutis | Preheat oven to 350ºF. Add the eggs to a medium bowl and whisk lightly. Add the sugar and combine until mixture becomes pale yellow. While whisking, add milk, ricotta, lemon juice and lemon zest. Add flour and salt and whisk until combined. Place the berries in a round cake pan and pour the mixture over the berries. Place in the center of the oven and bake about 45 minutes or until the center has puffed up and bounces back when lightly pressed. Remove from oven and allow the clafoutis to cool completely.

| Preparation – Lemon Ricotta Crème | Place cream, ricotta, sugar, lemon juice and lemon zest in the bowl of a stand mixer and whip on medium speed until soft peaks

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MAY 2012

begin to hold their shape. If desired, store refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

| To Serve | Cut clafoutis into 6 servings and place on individual plates. Garnish with fresh lemon ricotta crème and dust with powdered sugar.

Mascarpone and Goat Cheese Fritters with Fig Chutney and Port Reduction What could be better than a dessert that's a little sweet and a little savory? Did I mention that it’s fried? I remember a time when mascarpone cheese (often referred to as Italian cream cheese) could be found only in upscale shops. That’s no longer the case, and it has now become a staple in many kitchens. Serves | 6 | Fritters 1 cup

1 cup 1 ½ cup 2 Tbsp 1 cup 3 Tbsp ½ tsp 1 cup

cornmeal flour egg sugar mascarpone milk butter, melted vanilla extract crumbled goat cheese oil, for frying granulated sugar, for coating

Port Reduction 1 cup ruby port

2 Tbsp

Fig Chutney 1

½ cup 2 cups 2 cups 3 cups ¼ tsp 1 ¼-inch slice ¼ tsp

honey

vanilla bean sugar finely chopped dried figs water apple juice freshly ground black pepper cinnamon stick fresh ginger orange zest

| Preparation – Fritters | In a large bowl, mix together cornmeal, flour, egg, sugar, mascarpone, milk, butter and vanilla extract. Allow the mixture to rest for 15 minutes. Fold in the goat cheese, being careful to leave the crumbles intact. Meanwhile, heat about 4 cups of oil, depending on the size of your pan. You will need enough oil to cover the fritters completely while frying. Test oil for readiness by dropping a tiny piece of batter into the oil. When the piece of batter starts to rapidly sizzle, the oil is hot enough for frying. Drop the fritters by scant teaspoonfuls into the oil and cook until deep golden-brown. Gently turn with a fork to cook both sides. Remove fritters with a slotted spoon to a large plate lined with paper towels and cool slightly. Roll in granulated sugar until lightly coated.

| Preparation – Port Reduction | Combine port and honey in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook until reduced, thick and syrupy, about 30 minutes.

| Preparation – Fig Chutney | Cut the vanilla bean in half lengthwise and scrape the pod to remove the contents. Add the contents of the bean to the sugar and use your hands to mix well. Add the vanilla sugar to a medium saucepan with the remaining ingredients, except orange zest, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and cook at a bare simmer for 1 to 2 hours, until figs are soft and spreadable. Transfer to a food processor or blender, add orange zest and process until ingredients are well-incorporated but the figs still have some texture. Remove from the food processor and cool. If desired, you can store the chutney in an airtight container and refrigerate for 7 days.

| To Serve | For each serving, place a large spoonful of port reduction in the center of a plate. Place 2 Tbsp chutney on top of the sauce and arrange several fritters atop the chutney.

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MAY 2012

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MAY 2012

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MAY 2012

MEET & GREET

Brian Runge Creative Consultant, River City Savories written by Pat Eby

When Brian Runge missed out on a morel season because of a hospital stay, a friend sent him a few pounds of dehydrated morels. He mixed them with a creamy, cheesy base, and River City Savories was born. It debuted at the Alton Farmers and Artisans Market in the summer of 2010. Since then, Runge’s unbridled creativity has spawned 30 savory cheese combinations, a bevy of artisan pizzas, a lineup of painted pies – including a birds-on-bat Cardinals pie – and a takeout-sushi bar in Alton.

His epicurean oeuvre dazzles as he layers flavor upon flavor. The morel pizza is made with a beer-andmolasses crust. Cheese spread twosomes include cranberry-pear chutney and blue cheese, as well as salmon and wasabi. Buy his savory cheeses in St. Louis at all four Wine & Cheese Place locations. Sample his artisan pizzas at Annie Gunn’s, or stop by the Alton storefront for sushi. 130 Front St., Alton rivercitysavories.com

Picnic Pairings In the spirit of our wine issue, pack a basket with crackers, artisan breads, crudite and River City Savories spreads, and grab a bottle of local wine. Brian Runge offers up some pairing suggestions. SPARKLING WINE

Bring on the bubbly when you serve guacamole or morel mushroom cheese spreads. CHARDONEL

Pour a glass and snack on the chicken Caesar or spinach and artichoke spreads. VIGNOLES

This white’s strong enough to stand up to horseradish-bacon or Reuben spreads.

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MAY 2012

Photography by J. Pollack Photography

Runge is the former owner of Pietown Stompin’ Grounds, a popular Alton restaurant, and the chronic blood clots that hospitalized him ended his restaurant days. However, the more manageable rhythm of River City Savories has allowed him to indulge his inner chef.

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