wine’s new frontier
the science of hybrid grapes
pair midwest varietals
NATIVE GRAPES
CREATING A CROSS
WINE + DINE
Inspired Local Food Culture | Midwest
the
feastmagazine.com | May 2015
WINE issue
Pairs well with
SUNS H INE Summer is in full swing and Missouri wine country calls to us. The warm temperatures and clear blue skies create the need for adventure. Make the most of your wanderlust at one of our more than 125 Missouri Wineries. Spend the afternoon sampling some of our crisp, refreshing varietals while soaking in those beautiful rays. Plan your escape at missouriwine.org.
2
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
3
DISCOVER A GOOD NIGHT’S SLEEP AT OUR 9 MATTRESS GALLERIES. 0% Interest for 5 Years, No Money Down Free Mattress Delivery and Set-Up* Free Removal of Old Bedding* 120 Day Sleep Guarantee* 200% Price Guarantee* 0% APR for 60 Months*
Visit RothmanFurniture.com and see how a new mattress can help you sleep better. NEW Bridgeton
925 Northwest Plaza 314-388-0200
O’Fallon, Mo 2101 E. Terra Lane 636-978-3500
O’Fallon, Il 1776 Hway. 50 West 618-632-1700
South Side 7737 Watson Rd. 314-968-5595
Alton 3001 Washington 618-462-9770
South County 5711 S. Lindbergh 314-892-9002
NEW
Rothman Mattress Rothman Mattress Taubman Prestige Outlets Creve Coeur Chesterfield 11353 Olive St. Blvd. 636-812-0570 314-942-1616
Rothman Mattress Richmond Heights 1516 South Hanley Rd. 314-669-9577
*Free Delivery and Removal with $699 mattress purchase, free removal only when new mattress is delivered, free delivery within normal delivery zones, some zones require additional charge, some areas beyond our delivery range. 120 Day Sleep Guarantee on iComfort and iSeries, 90 Days on Tempur-Pedic, ask for details. 200% Price Guarantee: please see store for details. Financing to qualified buyers with $1499 minimum purchase. The minimum monthly payment for this purchase will be the amount that will pay for the purchase in full in equal payments during the promotional (special terms) period. The Preferred Customer Account credit card is issued by Wells Fargo Financial National Bank. Special terms apply to qualifying purchases charged with approved credit. Interest will be charged to your account from the purchase date at the APR for Purchases if the purchase balance is not paid in full within the promotional period. For newly opened accounts, the APR for Purchases is 27.99%. This APR may vary with the market based on the U.S. Prime Rate and is given as of January 1, 2015. If you are charged interest in any billing cycle, the minimum interest charge will be $1.00. Offer expires May 24, 2015. We reserve the right to correct any ad errors. Prior sales excluded, please ask for details.
4
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAy 2015
5
UNDER 45? Experience Young Friends nights during the 2015 Festival Season Two Lovebirds. One Wingman. A Close Shave.
Fly away to a land of dreams and sunlight.
Chaos reigns. Love prevails.
Secrets at the end of innocence.
Young Friends nights
feature open bar and dinner buffet in a reserved tent for patrons 45 and younger. Enjoy dinner, drinks, and the opera for only $49. Buy early – Young Friends events sell out quickly!
AMERICAN PREMIERE
THE BARBER OF SEVILLE
RICHARD THE LIONHEART
LA RONDINE
EMMELINE
CENTER STAGE
gioachino rossini, 1816
giacomo puccini, 1917
george frideric handel, 1727
tobias picker, 1996 j.d. mcclatchy
May 23, 27, 29, June 4, 6, 10, 14, 17, 27
May 30 June 3, 12, 18, 20, 24, 28
June 7, 11, 13, 20, 24, 26
Young Friends Night June 21
Young Friends Night May 23 Special thanks to Young Friends presenting sponsor:
Young Friends Night June 12
Young Friends Night June 24
Special thanks to Young Friends media sponsor:
a young artist showcase concert
June 13, 17, 19, 21, 25, 27
Presented in partnership with the Young Literati of the St. Louis Public Library.
Young Friends Night June 23 presented in partnership with Chamber Projects.
(314) 961-0644 | EXPERIENCEOPERA.ORG
All performances are sung in English and accompanied by members of the famed St. Louis Symphony.
Evening
SPECIALS Tuesday – Sunday 4 – 8 p.m. TWO FOR $20 RESERVE NOW
394-6237
Yankee Pot Roast | Mediterranean Tilapia Seared Pork Tenderloin | Bacon Wrapped Pork Tenderloin | Chicken Henri Fried Chicken | Chicken & Spinach Crepes Chicken Trebbiano | Chicken Volos Chicken & Dumplings
TWO FOR $30
Grilled Ribeye Steak | Steak Medallions Salmon | Blackened Tilapia & Shrimp Scampi DESSERT CHOICES Homemade Crème Brulee Chocolate Mousse Cake or Ice Cream (Double Scoop) Specials Include: Two Entrees, Two Desserts & Two Soft Drinks Belleville, IL 618-394-6237 Snows.org/rest Facebook.com/SnowsShrine
6
feastmagazine.com
MAy 2015
FEATURES Inspired Local Food Culture | midwest
58
MAY 2015 from the staff
| 45 |
cooK
|9|
Meet OUr CONtrIBUtOrS
| 46 | Seed tO taBLe
| 10 |
frOM the PUBLISher
Farmer Crystal Stevens shares how to make redbud flower -sassafras tartlets.
Raise a glass to local wine.
| 12 |
dIgItaL CONteNt
What’s online this month.
| 14 |
feaSt tv
A peek at the May episode.
| 17 |
DINe We’re dining at a new restaurant with historic roots in Granite City, Illinois; a retro -themed diner in Lawrence, Kansas; and a farm-to-table spot in Kansas City serving an impressive selection of regionally produced beer and wine. In our monthly travel piece, Road Trip, writer Pete Dulin travels to Weston, Missouri, and shares where to dine, drink and stay. We also talk to fast-casual restaurant owners across the region to learn about this swiftly-growing industry trend.
| 27 |
DrINK We’re sipping local beer in Alton, Illinois, wine in Kansas City and cocktails in Springfield, Missouri. We also talk to three bartenders to learn about trending “winetails” – and offer three recipes to recreate them at home.
| 37 |
| 48 | MyStery ShOPPer Meet: Rose hips.
| 52 | MeNU OPtIONS
63
Steamed clams with bacon and white beans paired with Vidal Blanc from Adam Puchta Winery in hermann, Missouri.
| 54 | Sweet IdeaS Pastry chef Christy Augustin shares how to make strawberry-norton jam using local wine.
69
COVER DESIGn BY Alexandrea Doyle TABLE OF COnTEnTS PhOTO OF ThE VInEYARDS AT VOx VInEYARDS (P. 58) COuRTESY Vox Vineyards
76 84
vox vINeyarDs Vox Vineyards is rediscovering America’s native grapes and cultivating innovation from ground to glass.
the buzz about meaD Mead is increasing in popularity and production across the country – including at many regional meaderies.
creatINg a cross The science behind developing hybrid wine grapes that flourish in the Midwest.
PaIreD uP Chefs from restaurants at five regional wineries share recipes to pair with Midwest varietals in a five-course meal.
uNcorKINg a comebacK Learn how a winemaker in Westphalia, Missouri, revived Missouri Riesling.
shoP We visit two regional shops – a popular beer, wine and spirits store in Kansas City and a new market in Creve Coeur, Missouri. We also catch up with Jimmy Fareh, owner of Rustic Grain in St. Louis, to learn what inspired the company’s reclaimed furniture and woodworking.
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
7
Magazine Volume 7
| Issue 5 | May 2015
Publisher Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com Director of Sales Angie Henshaw ahenshaw@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1298 EDITORIAL Senior Editor Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com Associate Editor Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com Assistant Digital Editor Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor Mabel Suen
Paradise Just Minutes from 270 Luxury Golf Course Homes
Editorial Assistant Alex Wilking Proofreader Christine Wilmes Contributing Writers Christy Augustin, Jonathan Bender, Ettie Berneking, Seán Collins, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pete Dulin, Sarah Fenske, Kyle Harsha, Valeria Turturro Klamm, Brandon and Ryan Nickelson, Ryan Sciara, Matt Seiter, Matt Sorrell, Crystal Stevens, Shannon Weber, Danny Wood ART Art Director Alexandrea Doyle, adoyle@feastmagazine.com Contributing Photographers Zach Bauman, Teresa Floyd, Jonathan Gayman, Gregg Goldman, Jill Heupel, Natalie Hinds, Aaron Ottis, J. Pollack Photography, Megan Roussin, Jennifer Silverberg, Jessica Spencer, Landon Vonderschmidt, Cheryl Waller FEAST TV
producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Judd Demaline of Graine Films
COnTACT US Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor, St. Louis, MO 63101 314.475.1244, feastmagazine.com
The Forest at Pevely Farms 2 Reservoir Ct., Eureka 314-753-1128 paynefamilyhomes.com
e. 8
feastmagazine.com
MAy 2015
DISTRIbUTIOn To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Bill Morlock for St. Louis at bmorlock@stldist.com; Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com; and Dirk Dunkle for Jefferson City and Columbia at dadunkle@columbiatribune.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2015 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC
ContrIbutors
05.15
The Art of
jessica kennon spencer Springfield, Missouri, Photographer Jessica Kennon Spencer is a graphic designer and photographer living in Springfield, Missouri, with a focus on food photography and food styling. Working through art school as a restaurant manager and bartender gave her an affinity for the culinary world – and the means to pour a mean Margarita. After becoming art director of Springfield’s 417 Magazine in 2012, Jessica began inching her way into food coverage, styling pages of gorgeous dishes and drinks at local eateries throughout the Ozarks. She now works as a freelancer for various publications, agencies and businesses on design, commercial photography and food service advertising. In her spare time, you can find Jessica at home in the kitchen with her husband, Chad; snuggled up on the sofa with their three dogs, Emmy, Pixel and Goose; or working on a home renovation project.
seán collins
Entertaining Join Feast Magazine for an open house party at
The Forest at Pevely Farms 2 Reservoir Ct. Eureka, MO. 63025 | 314-753-1128
Saturday, May 16th 1:00 – 4:00 A collection of luxury estate homes awaits you just outside St. Louis, along Interstate 44 near Eureka, where the Meramec bends around rolling hills blanketed with trees. Join us as Feast Magazine hosts an open house party highlighting this prestigious new community, The Forest at Pevely Farms by Payne Family Homes. Enjoy an hors d’oeuvre buffet with wine and beer pairings
St. Louis, Writer Seán Collins had his first meal back in the ’60s in Belleville, Illinois, where his mother made soups and his father dirtied every pot and pan in the kitchen recreating classic French recipes. Collins is an award-winning public-radio producer, having produced NPR’s All Things Considered for many years and helping to create the network’s signature style of content-rich storytelling. He thinks the best part of living in Washington, D.C. was its restaurant scene. Julia Child once made him lunch, which the two of them ate at her kitchen table in Cambridge, Massachusetts. An avid photographer, Collins continues to make the occasional bit of radio, where the pictures are even better. He lives in the Forest Park Southeast neighborhood of St. Louis. PHOTO BY ALEx FORTINEAu
megan roussin Farmington, Missouri, Photographer Megan Roussin, wife and mother of two from Farmington, Missouri, owns and operates Roussin Photography. She is passionate about creating images that provide the correct balance between trendy and timeless. With a shooting style that is a mix of classic portraiture and photojournalism, she creates one-ofa-kind candid photos that truly capture the personality and liveliness of each subject. Whether she’s designing a new set with handmade materials or scouting an outdoor location for a family session, her aim is to provide boutique-quality photos complete with an exceptional client experience. Roussin’s personality is as vibrant as her photos; her humor is contagious. She loves what she does and it shows in her work. You can contact Megan on Facebook, by phone at 573.631.7320 or at roussinphotography.com.
Try one oF The FeaTured reciPeS being Served! Recipe courtesy of Butler’s Pantry
Strawberry Rhurbarb Chicken Satay Yield | 12 ea | CHICKEN 2 boneless skinless 6 oz chicken breast (cut into 6ths) ¼ cup olive oil zest and juice of 1 lemon 1T dried sweet bell peppers S&P as needed 12 bamboo skewers -Cut Chicken, removing the cartilage between the two breasts. Combine remaining ingredients and pour over chicken. Marinate overnight. Grill the 12 pieces individually. Cook through or until an internal temp of 165 is reached. Skewer once cooled. Warm as needed to serve.
StrawbErry rHubarb bbQ SauCE 2 cups ketchup ¼ cup cider vinegar ¼ cup Worchestershire sauce ¼ cup brown sugar 2 T molasses 2 T prepared yellow mustard ½ t black pepper 2 T your favorite Bbq rub 2 cups macerated strawberries – recipe follows 1 cup macerated rhubarb– recipe follows -Combine all ingredients and simmer for 20 minutes. Puree with hand held blender. MaCEratEd FruIt 2 cups hulled strawberries cut ½ 1 cup rhubarb 1 cup white sugar ½ cup bourbon
brandon & ryan nickelson St. Louis, Writers Brothers Brandon and Ryan Nickelson have a lot in common: family, friends and a love for craft beer. The brothers Nickelson can be found in Clayton, Missouri, at their store, Craft Beer Cellar, located at 8113 Maryland Ave., which boasts over 720 different types of beer from more than 200 breweries from across the world, all available for build-your-own six-packs. The “beer geeks” at Craft Beer Cellar are armed with cicerone certifications and are ready to use them. Name your flavor or style and any of the well-trained staff will help you pick out the perfect brew. Craft Beer Cellar will be celebrating its first anniversary this month.
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAy 2015
9
publisher’s letter
FeAst eVeNts
few things are more enjoyable than spending a day in our local wine country.
stl
May to October, 5 to 8pm; rotating St. Louis County Parks
This weekly festival gathers great mobile eats and popular local bands in parks across St. Louis County. Get the full schedule by visiting the Events section at feastmagazine.com. stl
Toast to the Triple Crown Horse Races – the Kentucky Derby, Preakness Stakes and Belmont Stakes – with signature drinks and a unique menu. MO
Downtown Washington Fine Art Fair & Winefest
tasting rooms and wonderful
Fri., May 15 through Sun., May 17; historic Downtown Washington; downtownwashmo.org
vintages make me grateful
Sample wine and enjoy a variety of snacks and gourmet foods at this unique festival in the heart of Missouri wine country.
to live in Missouri, where we have a very large and robust
Watch the May episode of Feast TV on PBS stations across the region to get a taste of one of Ferran Adrià’s menus from his book, The Family Meal.
triple Crown series throwdown Sat., May 2; Sat., May 16; and Sat., June 6; Sanctuaria Wild Tapas; sanctuariastl.com
Rolling hills, neat rows of trellised grapes, convivial
Feast in the park
stl
taste of Maplewood
wine industry.
Sat., May 16, noon to 9pm; Downtown Maplewood; maplewood-chamber.com
Each winery has a unique
Enjoy the bites, sights and sounds of Maplewood, as well as live music, at the seventh annual Taste of Maplewood street festival.
story to tell, a distinct
stl
winemaking style and a
Sat., May 16, 1 to 4pm; The Forest at Pevely Farms; Eureka, Missouri
singular experience to offer its guests. Some, like Stone Hill Winery
Enjoy an hors d’oeuvres buffet with wine and beer pairings and experience a collection of luxury estate homes just outside of St. Louis.
in Hermann, offer a taste of history alongside award-winning Norton and luscious icewines, allowing visitors a peek into the past in its 19th century barrel rooms. Others, like Chaumette Winery in Ste. Genevieve,
stl
Get your taste buds ready for an array of great foods from around the world, all located on South Grand. Feast on your choice of an appetizer, entrée, dessert, drink and a wild card to choose another course aside from your entrée.
rosé or unoaked Chardonel. Some wineries pair delicious wines with spectacular views, like Montelle Winery, where you can sip dry Vignoles or Seyval Blanc perched on a ridge overlooking the Augusta American – while others are only open by appointment and offer a one-on-one
MO stl
or 573.874.8090
Sycamore and 4 Hands Brewing Co. team up to host a multicourse dinner in which each course is paired with a different 4 Hands beer.
City, where you can enjoy wines made from unusual native American grapes like Lenoir and Wetumpka. stl
School; $40; schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704
Join us in the kitchen and learn how to make steamed clams with bacon and white beans paired with Vidal Blanc from Adam Puchta Winery in Hermann, Missouri. In this class you’ll learn how to pair Midwest wine varieties with food.
devastating the industry, which only began its rebirth in the 1960s and ‘70s. Winemaking is a significant part of our regional heritage, and in this, our annual wine issue, we celebrate the work of local vintners. Raise richness of the Midwest wine industry. You’ll be glad you did.
schnucks Cooks: steamed Clams with bacon and White beans Wed., May 27, 6 to 9pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking
was one of the country’s largest producers of wine before Prohibition hit,
a glass to local wine. Get out there and taste, explore and experience the
4 hands brewing Co. Collaboration series beer Dinner with sycamore Thu., May 21; 6pm; Sycamore; sycamorerestaurant.com
tasting with the winemakers, such as Vox Vineyards north of Kansas
As the craft beverage industry booms, we are reminded that Missouri
south Grand international Dine Around Thu., May 21, 5 to 10pm; South Grand from Arsenal to Humphrey; $30 in advance; southgrand.org
treat you to a grape-infused spa experience following a tasting of dry
Viticultural Area – the first federally approved AVA in the country
the Art of entertaining
stl
William Grant & sons back bar takeover Sun., May 31, 2 to 6pm; Planter’s House; $45; plantershousestl.com
Meet the William Grant & Sons brand ambassadors and enjoy an afternoon of cocktails, spirited stories, lively discussions, hors d’oeuvres and two live musical acts.
Until next time,
stl
Art&Air, the Webster Arts Fair Fri., June 5 through Sun., June 7; Webster University/ Eden Theological Seminary; webster-arts.org/artair
Enjoy on-site food from favorite local restaurants, nonstop live performances, art demonstrations and creative activities in the heart of historic Webster Groves, Missouri.
Catherine Neville
publisher@feastmagazine.com
10
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
@cat_neville
@cat_neville
Hand Crafted Coffees Importing Fine Coffees from 20 Countries • QUALITY • EXPERIENCE • SERVICE Full Service Coffeehouse & Restaurant Supplier Fourth Generation Family Owned Coffee Roasters Since 1930
WWW.CHAUVINCOFFEE.COM
314-772-0700
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
11
Welcoming Visitors for Over 200 Years! The Businesses of Historic St. Charles, Missouri Come See What’s Happening This Spring MAIN STREET BOOKS 307 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 63301
636-949-0105
Congratulations Graduate!
StringAlong With Me Now available:
Polish Pottery at Siostra Polish Pottery and Gifts From Boleslawiec Poland • Hand painted and colorful • Detailed patterns • Dishwasher, Microwave, Freezer & Oven safe to 400 F
Fashion Accessories Stop by and check out our great collection of gift items for the graduate – Kindergarten to PhD.
www.mainstreetbooks.net
625 S. Main St. Charles, MO 63301
( 636 ) 947-7740 Magical Gemstone Jewelry
Spices
Spices
• Mystical Incense • Candles & Crystals Metaphysical & Inspirational Books
Spices
www.theenchantedatticsite.com
Fresh, Quality Spices at Prices You'll Love.
FREE Gift with Every Purchase!
• Grilling rubs, marinades and spices • Hot sauces and peppers, including Ghost • Local soup, dip mixes & honey
Join Us on Facebook
334 South Main,
The Enchanted Attic
Historic St. Charles
7 Days A Week
636-916-3600
304 S. Main
www.oldtownspices.com
(636) 949-9502
Finishing
WHILE SUPPLIES LAST
Touches by Charlotte
825 S. Main St. Historic St. Charles
636-947-6330
Mother’s Day
Brunch
10 a.m. - 2 p.m. Adults $23.99 • Kids 6-12 $11.99 Kids under 6 eat FREE!
Featuring Hand cut Prime Rib Peel-n-Eat Shrimp Made to order Omelets Chicken Modiga Full Breakfast Bar Salad/Fruit Bar Desserts And more!
For Reservations of any size party Call Ann Walters at (636) 578-2978
Tony’s On Main Closed on Mondays
330 South Main Street St. Charles, MO 63301 Like us on Facebook!
636 925 1480
www.potterystcharlesmo.com
• Specialty Foods •
Soups, Cheesecake and Cheeseball Mixes. Sauces, Mustards, Jams & Jellies, Butters, Dip Mixes, Cocoa Mixes, Coffees, Teas, Spices & Seasonings
• Accessories •
Candles, Trees, Baskets, Ornaments, Spreaders, Seasonal Decorative Accessories, Kitchen Gadgets
708 South Main Street
www.mainstreetmarketplace.com
Facebook: Main Street Marketplace in Historic Saint Charles Missouri
636-940-8626
132 North Main in Historic St. Charles 636.940.1960 • tonysonmain.com
Mother's Day Luncheon Sat., May 9 BrING yOUr MOTHEr Or LOvED ONE, 11:30 AM TO 1:30 PM
Special Holiday Parties Shower, Birthday, Office Parties! • Create a stuffed animal • Miniatures for SALE • Many GIFT IDEAS of your very own at • GIFT CErTIFICATES! our STUFFIN STATION
GIFTS FOR THE ONE YOU LOVE!! Open Tuesday-Sunday 11-5
329 South Main Street, Historic St. Charles, MO
636/946-0505
12
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
Scottish, Irish, and Welsh Gifts and Heraldry items, Kilt sales and rentals. For Mother’s Day, Attractive Celtic Jewelry and Gifts • Distinctive Clan Badges and Tartans • Kilts for purchase or rental • Heraldry Research - Discover your roots • Sporrans, whistles, chanters, piping accessories • Sgian Dubh selection
DIGITAL CONTENT
hungry for more?
feastmagazine.com
connect with us daily:
PHOTOGRAPHy By MABeL Suen
onLInE ExTRA In this month’s Paired Up feature (p. 76), five chefs from restaurants at five Missouri wineries develop a dish to form a fivecourse meal highlighting different Midwest wine varietals. For more recipes specifically developed to pair with local wine varietals (like chocolate -dipped cheesecake pops on p. 83 by Adam Lambay, executive chef of Chaumette Vineyards & Winery) visit feastmagazine.com.
FACEbook. See where we’re dining across the region (like the newly opened Peculiar Penguin in St. Louis) at facebook.com/feastmag.
TWITTER. Follow @feastmag to check out behind-
the-scenes photos from Feast TV shoots, like Leaky Roof Meadery in Buffalo, Missouri.
PHOTOGRAPHy By JennIFeR SILveRBeRG PHOTOGRAPHy By GuS GuS Fun BuS
PHOTOGRAPHy By JennIFeR SILveRBeRG
PInTEREST. Love cooking with wine? Check out our Wine-Inspired Dishes board at pinterest. com/feastmag for ideas like wine-poached pears.
THE FEED: Keep up with what’s happening in the region’s food-and-drink scene by visiting our daily updated news blog, The Feed, at feastmagazine.com/the-feed. We recently shared lists of our favorite patios in St. Louis and Kansas City, checked in with vino Cellars in Springfield, Missouri, and took a street tour of Cherokee Street in St. Louis. SPECIAL GIVEAWAY: Win a pair of tickets to the Downtown Washington Fine Art Fair & Winefest’s Sip and Savor Sunday in
InSTAGRAm. Hashtag your local food-and-drink photos with #feastgram for a chance to see them in Feast! Details on p. 90.
Watch our videos and Feast TV.
youtube.com/FeastMagazine
Washington, Missouri, on Sun., May 17. Just head to the Promotions section at feastmagazine.com for all the details.
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
13
FEAST TV
TV
Look for the Feast TV splat throughout the magazine. It tells you which articles are part of this month’s episode!
watch this month’s episode to:
Segment 1: Head to Leaky Roof Meadery, the first dedicated meadery in Missouri, to taste some of the state’s best mead.
Segment 2: Discover how Strange Donuts and Seoul Taco have collaborated on a shared space in Columbia, Missouri.
PHOTOGRAPHy by jOnATHAn GAyMAn
Segment 3: Learn about native American grapes at Vox Vineyards near Kansas City, where innovation is cultivated from ground to glass.
Mead is gaining in popularity at wineries and meaderies across the country. In this month’s The Buzz About Mead (p. 63), we talk to four Midwest mead producers, including Leaky Roof Meadery in Buffalo, Missouri.
Segment 4: Meet one of the world’s most famous and groundbreaking chefs, Ferran Adrià, and learn how art and food intersect in his work.
feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors: Missouri Wines In May, reach for a bottle of Cave Vineyards’ bianco Secco. Feast TV producer Catherine neville pairs it with linguine carbonara, fried cod and green pepper sandwiches, and almond soup with caramel gelato from Ferran Adrià’s The Family Meal cookbook.
14
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
Whole Foods Market Get cooking at home! Pick up the recipes and ingredients from Catherine neville’s May Feast TV demo at the brentwood and Town and Country locations of Whole Foods Market in the St. Louis area.
WATCH FEAST ON THESE NETWORKS
Not Your Average
Foodie Classes
In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to see Feast TV on Sat., May 2 at 2pm; Sun., May 3 at 1:30pm; Mon., May 4 at 1pm; Sun., May 10 at 3:30pm; and Sat., May 23 at 11am. Feast TV will also air throughout the month on nineCREATE.
In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) on Sat., May 16 at 2:30pm. Catch up on past episodes on Thursdays at 7:30pm.
You can watch Feast TV throughout midMissouri on KMOS (Channel 6) on Thu., May 28 at 8:30pm and on Sun., May 31 at 6:30pm.
Whether you’re into making, tasting, or growing tonight’s dinner, there’s no place like the Missouri Botanical Garden to learn about what’s on your plate. www.mobot.org/education
Feast TV will air in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) at 10am on Sat., May 2.
The Power of Plants 4344 Shaw Blvd. • St. Louis, MO 63110 ( 3 1 4 ) 5 7 7- 5 1 0 0 • w w w . m o b o t . org
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAy 2015
15
16
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
where we’re dining
catch comfort food with a twist on p. 20 photography by natalie hinds
trending now: fast-casual dining
on trend
WRITTen by beTHany CHRISTo anD LIz MILLeR
Locally owned fast-casual restaurants are picking up speed across the region thanks to quick service and customizable meals made with a focus on high-quality ingredients. kc
topp’d pizza
stl
como
seoul taco
Kansas citY, Ks. before opening Topp’d Pizza in January,
claYton, Mo. In June, Crushed Red will have opened
coluMBia, Mo. Since opening in Columbia, Missouri,
Chad Talbott spent 15 years in the pizza industry, including five years operating a pizza buffet franchise. over the years, he noticed a shift in customer demand from, as he describes it, the “quantity over quality” of fast food to quick, customizable meals made with high-quality ingredients. “People are more concerned with what’s in the food, where the food came from and how they can be a part of making their meal,” Talbott says. at Topp’d, customers order 9-inch pies made with their choice of crust, sauce, cheese and toppings. all of the ingredients are made from scratch and are never frozen, which is how Talbott and team are able to assemble, bake and serve pizzas in just five minutes. Customizable salads are also available with the same set of ingredients, as is a selection of craft beer and wine. –L.M.
its third location in the greater St. Louis area and its first two franchises in Denver. Co-founder Chris LaRocca describes the restaurant as a lunch and dinner, “chopped salad concept that just happens to play very nicely with pizzas cooked in less than three minutes.” In 2004, LaRocca began an 18-month research trip to learn all he could about fast-casual concepts across the country. His research paid off in 2012 when he and cofounder Powell Kalish launched Crushed Red in Clayton, Missouri. LaRocca says the big lessons he learned were ensuring that guests felt comfortable having a full dining experience (beer and wine lists are a must) and that the silverware, linens, plates and glasses reflected the same high quality as what’s on your plate. Whether you opt for a made-to-order salad or a hand-stretched pizza, you’ll be able to customize your meal, pay for it and grab a table in less than five minutes. “The food has gotten more complex,” LaRocca says. “It’s truly become and will continue to be chef-driven, high-caliber food that doesn’t break the bank.” –B.C.
in early March, Seoul Taco has been nonstop busy, and co-owner ben Choi has a few guesses as to why. “It goes back to our food truck days,” he says, referring to the Korean-meets-Mexican-inspired food truck that has roamed the streets of St. Louis since before the first space opened in the Delmar Loop in 2012. “When we had our five-day-a-week rotation, our biggest days were always the [Saint Louis university] and [Washington university in St. Louis] stops. So we knew our type of food catered to the younger demographic.” at the new location, the layout for how customers place orders has been completely reversed, which Choi says has been successful in lessening wait times – so successful, in fact, that David Choi, ben’s brother and Seoul Taco co-owner, is hoping to implement the change at the flagship location. What hasn’t changed are the best-selling menu items: the spicy pork and bulgogi beef burritos and tacos in your hands three to five minutes after you’ve ordered. –B.C.
Topp’d Pizza, 3934 Rainbow Blvd., Rosedale, Kansas City, Kansas, 913.677.7070, toppdpizza.com
Apple-cranberry spring salad ReCIPe CouRTeSy CHaD TaLboTT, ToPP’D PIzza
Serves | 1 |
Crushed Red, multiple locations, crushed-red.com
candied alMonds
¼ ¼
cup slivered almonds cup granulated sugar
BalsaMic Vinaigrette
¼ 1 ½ 1
cup balsamic vinegar clove garlic oz diced red onion cup canola or vegetable oil salt and freshly ground black pepper squeeze lemon juice
salad
5 ¼ ½ ¼
cups mixed greens cup shredded Parmesan cheese Fuji or Gala apple, sliced cup dried cranberries candied almonds (recipe below)
| Preparation – candied Almonds | In a nonstick skillet over medium heat, add slivered almonds and toast lightly. When they begin to change color, add sugar and stir gently until sugar has melted. Immediately remove skillet from heat. Place candied almonds on parchment paper in a thin layer to cool. once cooled, break into small pieces for salad topping.
| Preparation – Balsamic Vinaigrette | Transfer vinegar, garlic and onion into the bowl of a blender and blend on high until evenly combined. Then, very slowly, as blender is still on high speed, add oil until dressing is creamy. add salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste. Set aside. | Preparation – salad | In a large bowl, toss all ingredients in a light coating of vinaigrette to combine. Serve. PHoTogRaPHy by LanDon vonDeRSCHMIDT
18
crushed red
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
Seoul Taco, 1020 E. Broadway, Downtown, Columbia, Missouri, 573.441.8226, seoultaco.com
stl
one on one
bob brazell co-owner and executive chef, byrd & barrel
Written by bethany Christo
photography by jennifer silverberg
ST. LOUIS. at the corner of Jefferson and Cherokee streets, a dilapidated building that formerly housed a Popeyes Louisiana Kitchen fast-food restaurant seemed ready for demolition. but then bob brazell, along with three business partners, stepped in with a vision for the space. in June, brazell and team will take the final step in making their vision a reality with the opening of Byrd & Barrel, a fullservice, 40-person restaurant and bar. “byrd” refers to the food menu, which is focused around fried chicken made with housemade rubs and sauces, inventive sides and small plates served on metal trays with logo paper, while “barrel” describes the canned beer, whiskey and bourbon served behind the bar. the building’s original drive-thru window has also been revived to serve a condensed version of the menu, and brazell eventually also hopes to make use of the property’s 40-person patio. before launching byrd & barrel, brazell worked at Pi Pizzeria and niche, and most recently was executive chef at athlete eats on nearby Cherokee street. With byrd & barrel, he hopes to fill the late-night dining void – the restaurant will be open seven days a week until 1:30am – serving food made with high-quality, locally sourced ingredients in a fast-casual environment.
What should diners expect to find on the menu? there will be 15 to 27 affordable offerings, with locally sourced sides and pressure-cooked, specially brined chicken priced a la carte – wing, leg, breast, thigh – and then 2-, 6- and 10-piece buckets at the drive-thru. yup, we’re bringing the bucket back. Don’t get me wrong, there’s going to be lots of greasy fingers and napkins, but we’re going to have so much more. a chalkboard when you first walk in will list all our chicken and veggie specials – nashville hot chicken, Korean fried chicken, smoked chicken enchiladas – but one day you might walk in and see a burger or house-smoked brisket up there. sides and small plates will include our Provel [and] béchamel mac ‘n’ cheese topped with red hot riplets, or potatoes cooked in crab-boil liquid with smoked vegetables in a potato salad. Desserts will include cinnamon sugar and chocolate hazelnut beignets and a rotating selection of ice cream from Clementine’s naughty and nice Creamery. We’re more than southern food – we have a chicharrón and kimchi alternative to chips and dip, wings, southside poutine with tater tots, plus housemade sauces like General tso’s, sweet-chile-honey and maple-mustard. What about the bar program? We’ll have 50 canned beers and five really good whiskeys and bourbons behind the bar – i’m thinking a mix of irish and american whiskeys, mainly because that’s what i drink – kidding! – plus a small offering of wine. then we’re going to have five cocktails created by our bartending friends across the city. When you read our menu, you’ll see the cocktail, who made it and where he or she bartends. 4 hands brewing Co. is also making a one-handle tap barrel for us to offer their new releases, and we’re hoping to showcase a local homebrewer on that tap, as well. We’re working with our neighbors, earthbound brewing, to create a smaller, self-contained vessel for “keg service,” where you can order an affordable earthbound beer, only available here or at their location, in this little keg that you can tap and put on your table to share with friends. Why did you choose to open a fried-chicken concept? i like to call it food that people want to eat rather than southern or comfort food. During construction, there wasn’t a day that went by that someone wouldn’t stop us to ask what we were putting in. i started by having a really long answer but eventually shortened it up: We’re doing fried chicken and beer. Literally one guy dropped to his knees and was like, ‘thank you.’ i’m not trying to say we’re the most original dudes in the world, but all the things we’re doing together make it stand out. More than what’s being done in st. Louis, it’s what’s being done in this spot and in this neighborhood.
• Cajun Entrees • Breakfast • Appetizers • Burgers/Sandwiches • Entrees • Salads • Desserts
Gift Cards Available!
Drink Specials Bottle Beer Always $2.50, Well Drinks $3
Try our 18oz.
Prime Ribeye
enhanced by a delicious Mushroom Burgundy sauce, creamy garlic mashed potatoes and Rose Bud Salad. Conveniently located in Kirkwood Dinner Hours: Tues.-Sun. 5 p.m.
The food is Creole, St. Louis style cooking. It’s a little spicy, little different, highly seasoned, and highly desired!
133 West Clinton Place St. Louis, MO 63122 314-965-9005
255 Union Boulevard Saint Louis, MO 63108 (314) 454.1551
www.citizenkanes.com
O P E N D A I LY 1 2 P M T O 6 P M
Head to feastmagazine.com to find out how Bob Brazell prepares his fried chicken brine, which he developed specifically for Byrd & Barrel. Byrd & Barrel, 3422 S. Jefferson Ave., Cherokee Business District, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.265.7998, facebook.com/byrdandbarrel
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAy 2015
19
where we’re dining From new restaurants to renewed menus, our staff and contributors share their picks for where we’re dining across the region this month.
lascelles
il
written by mabel suen
GRANITE CITY, IL. on the east side of the
mississippi river – fewer than 20 minutes away from the st. louis gateway arch – executive chef eric brenner is cooking up comfort food with a twist at Lascelles. the restaurant opened in February in granite city, illinois, an industrious town seeking to revitalize the epicenter of its blue-collar roots. the building itself, located kitty-corner from granite city city hall, was erected in the 1920s and formerly housed the guardian bank. its original granite floors and ornate tin ceiling have been fully restored and are accented by subtle art deco interior design.
photography by natalie hinds
on the dinner menu, starters include deviled eggs garnished with maple-glazed pork belly bits and entrées like chicken and dumplings made with half of a house-smoked chicken with potato gnocchi and mushrooms, peas and carrots in jus. choose from more than a dozen local craft beers offered at the sleek bar or opt for a classic cocktail to pair with your meal. For dessert, try the cookies and milk – warm chocolate-chip cookies still gooey from the oven served with a miniature vanilla-bean milkshake. Lascelles, 1324 Niedringhaus Ave., Granite City, Illinois, 618.709.7375, lascellesgc.com
Ks
ladybird diner written by pete dulin
LAWRENCE, KS. Ladybird Diner is what happens when a
1950s neighborhood diner meets the funky, liberal ethos of downtown lawrence, Kansas. a blue neon sign hanging outside instructs diners to “eat,” and the inside counter is flanked by chrome swivel seats and pyrex bowl lamp fixtures hanging overhead. servers wearing retro aprons, local artwork hanging on the exposed brick and stone walls, and robin’s egg blue vinyl booths all add to its charm.
photography by zach baumann
behind the counter, the kitchen dishes out comfort food like cheesy grits casserole with sausage gravy and chicken-fried steak with a daily vegetable and tangy buttermilk mashed potatoes. no-frills burgers and blue plate dinners like the hot beef (pot roast with mashed taters and brown gravy) pair well with the diner’s selection of shakes, malts and cherry phosphates. save room for homemade pie, especially the best-selling coconut cream. on university of Kansas game-day weekends, indulge in a bloody mary garnished with a whole glazed donut.
20
feastmagazine.com
Ladybird Diner, 721 Massachusetts St., Downtown, Lawrence, Kansas, 785.856.5239, ladybirddiner.com MAY 2015
where we’re dining
Kc
blue bird bistro
writteN by JeNNy VerGArA
KANSAS CITY. Most mornings you will see Jane Zieha, the
owner of Blue Bird Bistro, outside sweeping the stoop of her charming café located on the corner of 17th and Summit streets in the westside neighborhood before the shop opens for breakfast. Zieha has always been hands-on in running her restaurant, and that applies to the food she serves, too. Healthy food has been at the center of Zieha’s life since her youth, and she knew she wanted the food at blue bird to be organic, locally sourced and as sustainable as possible. Ask regulars, and they’ll tell you that breakfast is their favorite meal at blue bird – though the line out the door on weekends says it all. but dinner at blue bird is also not to be missed; when the sun sets, the dining room glows by candlelight, creating an ideal spot to linger over hearty entrées like pan-seared idaho rainbow trout served in a Veracruz sauce with garlic, tomato, green olives and capers over organic rice, or the risotto simmered in an organic cream sauce with black poplar and king oyster mushrooms, organic spinach and roasted garlic.
Zieha’s commitment to local producers also extends to her wine list, which includes selections from Amigoni Urban winery in Kansas City and Somerset ridge Vineyard & winery in Paola, Kansas, as well as bottles from California and France. Blue Bird Bistro, 1700 Summit St., Westside, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.221.7559, bluebirdbistro.com photography by LanDon VonDersChmiDt
photography by megan roussin
audubon’s of ste. genevieve
mo
written by Liz miLLer
STE. GENEVIEVE, MO. in the early 1800s, famous american ornithologist, naturalist
and painter John James audubon briefly lived in ste. genevieve, missouri. in 1946, the now-shuttered hotel audubon was named in his honor, and in December, audubon’s redevelopment reopened the building as a restaurant, Audubon’s of Ste. Genevieve. general manager bradon parsons says the farm-to-table spot strives to source about 75 percent of its ingredients from regional farmers and producers, including beef from arnold Farm near elizabeth, illinois; goat cheese made by baetje Farms in bloomsdale, missouri; sausage from oberle meats in ste. genevieve; and pork from meyer hog Farm in zell, missouri. the restaurant serves lunch and dinner monday through saturday and brunch on sundays. For lunch, executive chef andy gegg and chef alex naeger serve sandwiches like the reuben with house-smoked and -cured pastrami with sauerkraut, swiss cheese and thousand island dressing on rye, and hearty plates like a smoked and fried half-chicken with liver dumplings served with green bean casserole. Dinner entrées range from german-inspired fare such as grilled portabella mushrooms with housemade spätzle and sweet-and-sour cabbage to robust american dishes including pepper-encrusted beef tenderloin with a hickory-smoked bacon croquette, artichoke confit and brandy-black peppercorn demi-glace. the restaurant serves cocktails, craft beer – including three beers made in collaboration with nearby Charleville Vineyard, winery and microbrewery – and a wine list brimming with local favorites from Chaumette Vineyards & winery, Cave Vineyard, ste. genevieve winery and Crown Valley winery. Audubon’s of Ste. Genevieve, 9 N. Main St., Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, 573.883.2479, audubonstegen.com Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
21
destination: Weston, Missouri
road trip
WRITTEN By PETE DuLIN
Established as a major mid-19th century Missouri River port, Weston, Missouri, is now a destination for charming shops, historic buildings and restored antebellum homes. Weston draws visitors year-round – especially for the annual Weston Irish Festival in October – but warmer months are ideal for a scenic drive past wooded bluffs, railroad tracks and farm fields. Motorcyclists, sports-car buffs and tourists often cruise along Highway 45, bound for Weston’s historic Downtown district.
sleep
The Saint George Hotel
eat
The Vineyards Restaurant
local gems
Originally built in 1845, The Saint George serves as an ideal base camp for guests interested in touring the shopping, dining and entertainment options within blocks of the hotel. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the 26room, three-story hotel underwent a complete renovation in 2006 and features two luxury suites: the Captain’s Suite and the Orval Hixon Vaudeville suite. The latter suite, named after the famous Vaudeville- and Silent Film-era photographer, has a fireplace and Jacuzzi tub.
Mussels, tartare, baked Brie – and that’s just for starters at The Vineyards Restaurant, conveniently located in a cottage across the street from Pirtle Winery. Dinner entrées run the gamut from cedar plank-smoked salmon to Korean-inspired braised short ribs and seasonal specials like pepita-encrusted ahi tuna served with saffron orzo and chimichurri sauce. Early birds can savor breakfast dishes including crab cakes with roasted red pepper remoulade and corn salsa, or stop in for lunch for a corned beef Reuben sandwich.
Established in 1978, this family-owned winery is housed in a former Evangelical Lutheran Church built by German immigrants in 1867. Try complimentary samples of the winery’s awardwinning red and white wines and mead. The spicy, dry Weston Bend Red, made with locally grown St. Vincent grapes and aged in new American oak, won at the 2014 Jefferson Cup Invitational wine competition.
Pirtle Winery
505 Spring St., 816.640.5588, thevineyardsrestaurant.com
PHOTO COURTESY OF THE viNEYaRdS
502 Spring St., 816.640.5728, pirtlewinery.com PHOTO COURTESY OF WESTON CHaMBER OF COMMERCE
500 Main St., 816.640.9902, thesaintgeorgehotel.com
Hatchery House Bed and Breakfast This 19th-century, two-story antebellum home was converted into a boarding house in the 1930s for newlyweds. The Hatchery’s name comes from the young couples that were thought to have “hatched” babies there. Today, innkeepers Jan and Larry Jabara operate the remodeled bed-and-breakfast. The three rooms and one suite each include a queen-size bed, antique furniture, gas-log fireplace and private bathroom. On weekends, enjoy wine tastings in the dining room, coffee and pastries in the parlor and a country breakfast in the morning. 618 Short St., 816.640.5700, hatcherybb.com
Weston Brewing Co.
Avalon Café
Tin Kitchen
Chef-owner David Scott prepares Americanstyle bistro fare in this 1847 antebellum home transformed into a café that overlooks Weston’s charming Downtown. Although seasonal menus vary, Scott specializes in dishes such as pasta primavera, flatbread pizzas, steak burgers, wild boar loin, Kansas City strip steak and applewood-smoked ribs. The wine list features selections from neighboring Pirtle Winery, as well as Australia, France and other locales. Stay for Sunday brunch before the trip home.
A stroll through Downtown provides a history lesson, where wall placards identify stops like the Rumpel Hardware building, built in 1842, now home to Southern-inspired Tin Kitchen. Marvel at the original pressed-tin ceilings and walls while dining on hickory-smoked barbecue pulled pork or ribs. TK2, The Public House at Tin Kitchen, serves beers on tap and a full bar.
Current owners Corey Weinfurt and Michael Coakley revived this brewery, founded in 1842. Coakley, a trained operatic tenor, hosts Saturday tours of the brewery as well as O’Malley’s Pub, three underground cellars and the “secret” fourth cellar. Tours conclude with a beer tasting. Be sure to sample best-selling O’Malley’s Cream Ale, a light, golden ale that’s slightly sweet with just a hint of hops.
509 Main St., 816.640.0100, tin-kitchen.com
500 Welt St., 816.640.5235, westonirish.com
America Bowman Restaurant
Green Dirt Farm
PHOTO COURTESY OF MiCHaEL COaKLEY
608 Main St., 816.640.2835, avaloncafeweston.com
Benner House Bed and Breakfast This charming, two-story Queen Anne home was built in 1898 by George Shawhan. He owned the Shawhan Distillery that later became Westonbased McCormick Distilling Co. The bed-andbreakfast, outfitted with four queen-size suites and designed with Victorian romance in mind, offers easy access to Main Street’s attractions. After a day of exploration, guests can retire to the reception parlor, formal dining room, solarium, wraparound porches, gardens, private hot tub or in-ground heated pool, which is open from May through September. 645 Main St., 816.640.2616, bennerhouse.com PHOTO COURTESY OF WESTON CHaMBER OF COMMERCE
22
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
The Bunk House Bar & Grill The Bunk House specializes in burgers and grilled sandwiches, along with the greatest hits of hand-battered, fried appetizers – pickles, okra, mushrooms and cauliflower. Fun, creative burgers include The Hangover (bacon, over easy fried-egg and cheese), The Mexican Standoff (queso, grilled onions and jalapeño) and The Blue Jay Burger (blue cheese and roasted garlic). Be sure not to miss the deepfried Oreo cookies for dessert. 17965 N. Highway 45, 816.640.0000, bunkhousewestonmo.com
After touring Weston Brewing Co., head next door to this Irish-inspired venue for hearty pub food like Scotch eggs and its signature The O’Malley sandwich: corned beef, Swiss cheese and marinated slaw. Beef in stout with Gaelic sauce and colcannon potatoes, bangers and mash, and fish and chips are good enough to bring out the Irish in anyone. 500 Welt St., 816.640.5235, westonirish.com PHOTO COURTESY OF MiCHaEL COaKLEY
Owned and operated by artisan cheesemaker Sarah Hoffmann and farmer Jacqueline Smith, this Weston-based sheep farm isn’t open to the public. However, the farm’s award-winning cheeses can be purchased in Weston and at retailers across the region, or ordered online and shipped. Camembert-like Woolly Rind offers an edible white rind. Redolent with milk and grass flavors when young, the aged cheese develops a forestfloor aroma and buttery, mushroomy flavors. 19915 Mount Bethel Road, 816.386.2156, greendirtfarm.com
�
NEW SUBSCRIPTIONS
�
ON SALE MAY 11! THE SHELDON CONCERT HALL
THE PERFECT PL ACE FOR MUSIC & ART
314.533.9900 | THESHELDON.ORG 2015 • 2016 SEASON
CYRUS CHESTNUT TOM CHAPIN HONDA VINCENT RHO HALEN DAVID HALE RUTHIE FOSTER SAM BUSH
O THE KINGSTON TRIO WYNTON MARSALIS S& THE JAZZ AT LINCO OLN CENTER ORCHEST STRA RAMSEY LE MSEY LEW EWIS & MUCH MORE RE!
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
23
may: Green StrawberrieS
IN SEASON
WRITTen by beTHAny cHRISTo
This month marks the beginning of strawberry season, and a few chefs across the region are making use of the fruit before it fully ripens. When paired with the right ingredients, green strawberries impart tart, bitter flavor. stl
pickled green strawberry jam
maifest salad
MO
flavor fix
St. LOUiS. At Five Bistro in St. Louis, green strawberries are
kanSaS city. four times a year, the chefs at
sourced from the restaurant’s garden and in chef-proprietor Anthony Devoti’s backyard. Devoti says he pulls the “almost unbearably tart” strawberries for specific dishes near the beginning of the season, and also plucks the green buds when hot weather prevents strawberries from ripening. His favorite way to serve them is in a foie gras dish with two styles of green strawberries – a jam on top of brioche and pickled as a garnish. “It’s rich, rich, rich with bitter tartness,” Devoti says. “They really work best with something fatty, like foie gras or pork belly.” This year, Devoti says the restaurant will also use green strawberries in its bar program by steeping them with spices to make bitters for cocktails.
Affäre in kansas city introduce a seasonal salad in line with the restaurant’s german fare. In the fall, it’s a hearty oktoberfest salad, in July a light Sommerfest salad and in April, the maifest salad celebrates the arrival of spring with pickled green strawberries from prairie birthday farm, white asparagus flown in from Holland, walnuts and blue cheese with berry vinaigrette. Although a traditional german asparagus salad would use ruby red, ripe strawberries, chef-owner martin Heuser says he uses whatever local ingredients are available. “I would say 60 to 70 percent of my menu is seasonal and regional items,” he says. “I do have some traditional german items, but it’s not because of the wiener schnitzel or sauerbraten that german food is leading in michelin star ratings.” Heuser enjoys the versatility of green strawberries and suggests brining them or mixing slices into salsa.
cHarLeStOn, mO. Although he’s not currently serving green strawberries at his year-old restaurant, The Glenn, in charleston, missouri, chef-owner Adam glenn has worked with them in the past, incorporating them into fruit-andvegetable focused dishes, which is what his restaurant’s menu is built around. While he believes meat is important, “The sides are where you live and die.” He applies that philosophy to green strawberries and suggests home cooks use the fruit in recipes where tart flavor is needed – replace apples with green strawberries in an apple-fennel-celery salad, or in a sauce with a squeeze of lemon and drizzle of olive oil. “We have such a small window to work with them here, where it’s more humid, so I’m of the belief that if you’re using green strawberries, you should let them shine and not make it an accompaniment,” glenn says. “Today is its day; it only has a couple.”
Affäre, 1911 Main St., Crossroads Arts District, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.298.6182, affarekc.com
The Glenn, 2460 S. Highway 105, Charleston, Missouri, 573.649.5135, facebook.com/theglenn.restaurant
Five Bistro, 5100 Daggett Ave., The Hill, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.773.5553, fivebistro.com
Pickled strawberries RecIpe by AnTHony DevoTI, cHef-pRopRIeToR, fIve bISTRo
Yields | 2 quarts | Spice mix
1 2 ½ 2 1 ½ 2
Tbsp coriander Tbsp mustard seed Tbsp fennel seed Tbsp black peppercorns Tbsp red chile flakes Tbsp dill seed bay leaves
pickLed StrawberrieS
5½ cups water 2 cups vinegar (Champagne, rice or apple cider) 3 Tbsp toasted spice mix (recipe below) 1 knob fresh ginger, sliced 2 garlic cloves ½ medium onion ½ cup salt ¾ cup sugar 1 tsp dry chiles (optional) 3 pints green strawberries
| Preparation – spice Mix | In a pan over high heat, add all ingredients. Stir and allow to toast for 3 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Set aside. | Preparation – Pickled strawberries | Add all ingredients except strawberries to a pot over high heat. bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, 10 minutes. Remove from heat for 15 minutes. Halve strawberries and place into storage containers. Distribute pickling liquid evenly. Allow to cool, seal and store in a cool, dark place. Let pickle for at least 2 weeks and use within 6 months. pHoTogRApHy by ©ISTock.com/bRozovA
24
KC
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
one on one
kc
Th e H e art of Mi ssou ri Wi n e Cou n t r y
chef ferran adrià
2 7 5 R o b l l er V i neya rd R d N ew H a ven, M O 6 3 0 6 8 5 7 3 . 2 3 7 . 3 9 8 6 | r o b l l er w i n es . co m Open Daily 10:00 a.m. - 5:30 p.m. Sundays Noon - 5:30 p.m. | Closed some Holidays
Tom, Martha, & Ben Blatchford
Written by Pete Dulin resPonses translateD by sofia Perez
KANSAS CITY. avant-garde chef ferran adrià, the innovative mind behind
photography by landon vonderschmidt
now-shuttered, famed elbulli in spain, not only created stunning food at the restaurant, but also often illustrated his creative process behind dish development and presentation. today, adrià shares his work and insight into the connection between food and art with audiences across the world through lectures and speaking events. the first major museum exhibition to focus on his drawings, Ferran Adrià: Notes on Creativity, opened at The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art in Kansas City in february and runs through aug. 2 – and Kansas City is one of only five international stops on the tour. the exhibit charts adrià’s intellectual and philosophical ideas about gastronomy, which have forever impacted the international food community. in March, adrià visited Kansas City in support of the exhibition. What role did drawing play for you in recipe and dish development and your creative process? Drawing is not just a technique for expression – it is also a tool for thought, a way of visualizing, of playing with space, volume and proportion. in this sense, it has always helped me when it came time to express where i wanted to start in creating a dish. Did you always sketch the recipe development process and dish presentation prior to preparation? it was not something i consciously set about doing, but i realized that i needed to extract the form or the concept that i was carrying in me, in my head, and express it on paper, with the aim of subsequently matching it to the idea for the dish. Originally, your artwork drew from your actual life’s work. Does the artwork now influence the creative and intellectual process of your current work? Without a doubt, bringing together all of these drawings has made me aware that there is a constant there, a resource that’s been used repeatedly, and that allows me to achieve creative results. these days, when i go through and enumerate the various creative techniques we used at elbulli, alongside things like deconstruction, the influence of other cuisines, adaptation, etc., i include the technique of creating via drawings and shapes. on the other hand, this is a tool i have always used, and i tend to draw, map and plan out on paper the various projects i have in mind. How did drawing help you determine what would work or not work in a dish before getting into recipe development? in my experience, it’s the same way that, for example, the mental palate functions – in other words, imagining if a particular flavor combination works or not before i’ve tasted it. in the case of drawing, it’s not just a matter of tracing lines; implicit in the deed itself is also the act of imagining the possibilities of the idea that i have in my head. The NelsonAtkins Museum of Art, 4525 Oak St., Country Club Plaza, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.751.1278, nelson-atkins.org
910-212-3005 or 573-437-2699
Makers Of Farmstead Artesian Cheese
Hosts of the Brinkman Farmstead Bed & Breakfast
CoolCowCheese.com ~ 1613 Tschappler Rd., Owensville, MO 65066
chefs: restaurant opportunity in new haven Local and tourist clientele In the ‘Heart of Missouri Wine Country’ Favorable lease terms in renovated historic building Turnkey operation, including equipment Small town charm-family friendly
check us out at: pickneybend.com/downtown-new-haven-seeking-restaurant
At Skypark, your first day is free. SkyPark is already the best parking value at Lambert. We offer the newest fleet of shuttles and the most courteous staff. If you like our basic service, you’ll love our valet service – with available car wash and oil change – so you’re ready to roll as soon as you touch down.
Use this coupon to get your first day free and pay just $6 a day for the rest of your stay.* Name
*Coupon valid for Self-Park only. Requires minimum three-day stay (first day free; following days at $6). Expires August 31, 2015. Not valid with any other SkyPark offer. Name and email information required in order to use coupon.
4500 Crestshire Lane • St. Ann • 314.423.3800 • skyparkstl.com Inspired Local Food Culture
MAy 2015
25
Hermann Location Upcoming Events
Kentucky Derby Day - May 2 Dueling Pianos - May 2 Maifest - May 16 & 17 Wine Country Shrimp Boil - May 23 Grapes to Glass - June 6 New Vintage Days - June 6 & 7 Old Vintage Car Cruise - June 7 50 Year Anniversary Dinner - June 26 Cajun Concert - July 10, 11 & 12 He Said Food, She Said Wine - July 18 Summer Scavenger Hunt - August 1
573.486.3479
1110 Stone Hill Highway • Hermann, MO 65041 855.591.4242 • stonehillwinery.com 26
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
where we’re drinking don’t miss this flight on p. 32 PHOTOGRAPHy by lAndOn vOndeRscHmidT
trending now: winetails
on trend
Written by bethany Christo PhotoGraPhy by Jonathan GayMan
Whether serving as the base of a cocktail, mixed with spirits or used to top off a drink, wine is increasingly being poured, shaken and stirred into “winetails” on cocktail lists across the region. mo
norhattan
st. JaMes, Mo. Kansas City wine consultant, Master sommelier and Master of Wine Doug Frost created the norhattan winetail – a spin on the Manhattan – with Jamie Jamison, former general manager of the american, for the restaurant’s first Winetails dinner hosted during 2012 Paris of the Plains Cocktail Festival. “i was determined to show the norton grape in a new light,” Frost says. “We’ve used it every year at the american since then because the attendees demand it.” norton grapes grown in the region have a particular tartness and acidity to them that Frost believes makes them ideal for cocktails, and in the norhattan, the wine serves as a fruity and tangy accompaniment. Frost recommends St. James Winery’s award-winning 2009 norton for the most refreshing results.
St. James Winery, 540 State Route B, St. James, Missouri, 800.280.9463, stjameswinery.com
kc
one-eyed jack
kansas city. although introduced to The Westside Local’s wintertime cocktail menu at the beginning of the year,
the one-eyed Jack will stay on through the warmer months – because although it’s very strong, it’s light on the palate thanks to subtle sweetness throughout its profile. ingredients like Four roses small-batch bourbon, spiced sorel hibiscus liqueur and a sugar cube are mellowed by bitters and cava. spanish Vega Medien brut floats on top, and owner brandon strick says bartenders played with various alternatives before choosing dry cava to finish off the drink. “rather than add a splash of soda water or something, the cava adds another kick to the drink,” he says. served in a vintage 1920s coupe glass with a tart housemade brandied cherry, the dark fuchsia-hued cocktail is a best seller. The Westside Local, 1663 Summit St., Westside, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.997.9089, thewestsidelocal.com
stl
wine “o” politan
st. loUis. “Chief entertainment officer” Frank romano is the official creator of Robust Wine Bar’s Wine “o”
Politan (pictured) , which he developed with co-owner arlene Maminta browne to give their loyal clientele a wine-based take on the classic Cosmopolitan. robust uses rapido Pinot Grigio in place of the vodka in its drink, plus a hint of lime and a splash of cranberry and dry curaçao. “you have a more floral aroma, plus fresh peach and citrus characteristics from the Pinot Grigio, that adds more elements, more depth, than a neutral grain vodka,” romano says. “if you taste it next to a traditional Cosmopolitan, it’s pretty close, but the thing is, you can have two and still drive home without a problem.” since its introduction five years ago, the Wine “o” Politan remains a top seller, especially in the warmer spring and summer months. Robust Wine Bar, multiple locations, robustwinebar.com
Norhattan
one-Eyed Jack
Wine “o” Politan
reCiPe by DouG Frost
reCiPe Courtesy branDon striCK, oWner, the WestsiDe LoCaL
Serves | 1 |
Serves | 1 |
reCiPe by FranK roMano, ChieF entertainMent oFFiCer, robust Wine bar
1 2 ½ 2
1½ ¾ 3 3
oz St. James Winery 2009 Norton oz rye whiskey oz Carpano Antica Formula vermouth dashes Fee Brothers whiskey barrel-aged bitters ice
| Preparation | Combine all ingredients except ice in a cocktail shaker and stir together until cold. serve over ice in a rocks glass.
1 1
oz Four Roses Small Batch Bourbon oz Jack From Brooklyn Sorel hibiscus liqueur dashes Angostura bitters dashes Bittermans Burlesque Bitters ice brandied cherry (for garnish) sugar cube (for garnish) dry cava
| Preparation | in a cocktail shaker, combine first 5 ingredients and stir. strain into a coupe glass. Garnish with cherry and sugar cube. top with cava and serve.
28
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
Serves | 1 | ½ ¾ ¾ 3
oz lime juice oz Pierre Ferrand dry curaçao oz cranberry juice oz Pinot Grigio ice lime wheel (for garnish)
| Preparation | in a cocktail shaker, combine first 4 ingredients with ice and shake well. strain liquid into a wine glass. Garnish with lime wheel and serve.
one on one
stl
DISCOVER AMERICAN HERITAGE GRAPES
glenn bardgett wine director, annie gunn’s Written by bethany Christo
CHESTERFIELD, MO. of the 20 semifinalists for the James beard award’s outstanding Wine Program announced in February, only three weren’t restaurants on one of the coasts – sepia in Chicago, hugo’s in houston and Annie Gunn’s, the venerable steakhouse in Chesterfield, Missouri. the restaurant’s 40-page wine list (with jokes and cartoons sprinkled throughout) is filled with more than 950 wines assembled by wine director Glenn bardgett, a vocal advocate for the Missouri wine industry. in his 14 years at annie Gunn’s, bardgett has added 750 wines to the restaurant’s list and, under his tenure, garnered its first beard nomination in 2011. in addition to his work at annie Gunn’s, bardgett has 30 years of retail wine experience and serves on numerous wine boards and judging panels, including the Jefferson and Governor’s cups. We caught up with bardgett to find out how he’s seen the regional wine industry evolve and to learn more about annie Gunn’s national attention – which he says may have to do with some pretty stylish pants.
Annie Gunn’s, 16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield, Missouri, 636.532.7684, anniegunns.com
TO SCHEDULE A TOUR OR TASTING, CALL (816) 425-3219 OR VISIT US AT WWW.VOXVINEYARDS.COM G A
VOICE OF THE LAND
avory, Sweet or Spicy Try ry Dif Different Biscotti With Different Wines
A Perfect Compliment
B PhotograPhy by natalie hinds
Why do you think the wine program at Annie Gunn’s received a Beard nomination this year? i think a big part of it is the Missouri wines we offer; we’re promoting something that could easily be overlooked. We usually have 30 bottles on the list, and really no one else has anything close to that. Missouri wines don’t sell enough to justify having 30 selections, but if you only have five, you sell even less. but when you have such great wines being produced in this state, why wouldn’t you support it? the answer is because it will always be more work. these wines need explanation, especially Missouri wines because we’ve got different grapes. “What’s norton? What’s traminette?” it takes knowledge and patience to explain to a customer. We have local produce, local meat, local beer, local spirits – but where are the local wines? Local [wine] to many restaurants just means american. How did it feel to be nominated a second time? i work relationships very closely, i go to events nationally, i collect business cards like crazy, i’ve always got an annie Gunn’s shirt on and i typically wear patterned pants with grapes and wine bottles on them. i really believe a lot of our national attention is because i’m visible. i’ve got wild pants and i’m a big ol’ fat guy – i stand out in a crowd everywhere. With the James beard [awards], you don’t know who the judges are, but i do my best everywhere to make a name for “Glenn from annie Gunn’s in st. Louis.” In your opinion, what makes Missouri wines distinctive? one of the big misconceptions about Missouri wines is that they’re all sweet. in reality, Missouri wines are much more european in style than say, California wines. i always get in trouble with this comment, but it’s so easy to make good wine in California. even in challenging years, which are maybe one out of 10, you’re getting pretty solid fruit. our climate is too hot, too cold, too humid and way too erratic. the winemaking talent in Missouri at the top level is extraordinary. What is your favorite regional varietal? the grape i tend to enjoy the most in white wine is the traminette. i’ve always loved Gewürztraminer as a traditional european grape, and traminette is so damn close. anything goes with it foodwise. traminette isn’t a “new” flavor, but it’s still very successful and stunning. My favorite red grape, norton, is low tannin, and it’s very flavorful and has very good acidity.
Come explore the unique characteristics of our land, and the rich wine history expressed within our American heritage vines.
iscott iscotti B A R
• Grandma’s Almond • Dark Chocolate/Dark Cherry • Chocolate Cayenne • Snickerdoodle • Anise • Almond Apricot • Chocolate/Chocolate Chip • Strawberry Pistachio • Bacon Chocolate Chip • Goat Cheese & Herbs
C AV E V I N E YA R D 21124 Cave Road • Ste. Genevieve, MO 63670 573-543-5284 • CaveVineyard.com
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAy 2015
29
the mix
mint julep May is one of my favorite months of the year. not only is spring in full bloom, but it’s also the start of the only major american sporting event associated with cocktails – the triple crown of thoroughbred racing. the Kentucky derby has the Mint Julep, the preakness Stakes has the black-eyed Susan and the belmont Stakes has the belmont Jewel. While the latter two cocktails are delicious, they lack the historical gravitas of the Mint Julep, which has existed in one form or another for more than a thousand years.
Story and recipe by Matt Seiter photography by Jonathan gayMan
a popular and widely available spirit. the war not only moved soldiers to every corner of the country via U.S. railroads, but it also moved tremendous amounts of local products and cultural traditions.
bourbon also gained steam thanks to grape phylloxera, an insect that likes grapevine roots. in the mid- to late 1800s, French winemakers were importing american grape varietals to grow in the fields of europe. in addition to grapes, they also ended up with pests that lived off of the roots. american the term “julep” dates back to a medicine book in the early varietals were tolerant to the pests, but the european stocks 900s written by a physician named rhazes. no alcohol was were not, decimating vineyards across europe. as a result, used to make juleps – it was considered a remedy, not a brandy (and more specifically, cognac), a grape-based spirit, leisurely drink – just sweetened water flavored with flowers. saw drastic decreases in production, with some wineries over the course of 700 years, the julep appears in volumes reporting as much as a 60 to 85 percent drop. this meant less of medical books containing various herbs, roots and flowers brandy was produced, which sent prices soaring and consumers indigenous to specific regions. it wasn’t until the late 1600s or seeking alternatives. bourbon was already gaining popularity early 1700s that alcohol was added – and even then, it was still in the U.S., and shipping costs were cheaper than importing considered to have curative properties. the Mint Julep we know products from europe. this is when we begin to see whiskey today didn’t become fashionable until the early 1800s. and bourbon appear in cocktail recipes with abundance, including in the Mint Julep. the first recipes for Mint Juleps didn’t call for bourbon or american whiskey, but instead brandy, gin (genever or holland the renewed interest in the Mint Julep in mainstream american gin, to be exact), rum or a combination of all three, as those culture began in 1938 when it became connected to the spirits were more readily available to the masses. Whiskey was Kentucky derby. Juleps were served in water glasses, and still in its infancy as a bottled and marketed product, proving people enjoyed the glassware so much they took them home more useful and abundant to the populations of the back as souvenirs. the derby began selling the cups as proper country. it wasn’t until after the civil War that bourbon became souvenirs, filled with signature Mint Juleps. Matt Seiter is cofounder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program, author of The Dive Bar of Cocktails Bars, bartender at BC’s Kitchen and a bar and restaurant consultant.
Mint Julep Serves | 1 |
8 to 10 ½ 2½ ½ 3 to 4
mint leaves oz simple syrup oz bourbon crushed ice oz high-proof rum mint sprigs (for garnish) powdered sugar (for garnish)
| Preparation | place mint leaves in the bottom of a glass or silver mug. Lightly press them with the flat side of a muddler. add syrup and bourbon. Fill the glass halfway with crushed ice and churn for a few seconds. Fill the remainder of the glass with more ice and top with rum. garnish with mint sprigs and sprinkle powdered sugar over top. Serve.
Ingredient Intro Whiskey. Use the whiskey of your
choice. i suggest using one that’s higher proof (90 or higher) due to the rapid melting of the crushed ice. high-proof rum will certainly help with this, but a little more kick won’t hurt either – until the next morning. Rum. i suggest using Lemon hart 151, as i think it’s the only 151-proof rum that’s tolerable on the palate. high-quality Jamaican rum like Smith & cross navy Strength would also work well. sugaR. you can get fancy and produce your own infused syrup for the simple syrup in the drink. When making syrup, feel free to add spices like cinnamon or nutmeg or raw fruit like berries, peaches or citrus peels. as far as the powdered sugar garnish, i’ve seen many classic recipes that call for it to be dusted over top, although few bartenders follow that rule today.
on The shelf : may PIcks
WINE
Baltimore BenD VineyarD’S c² written by ryan SCiara
Provenance: waverly, Missouri PaIrIngs: Green salad with roasted beets, strawberries,
goat cheese and strawberry vinaigrette
Baltimore Bend Vineyard was the first vineyard in lafayette County in waverly, Missouri, where five or more vineyards and wineries now call home. the first grapevines at baltimore bend were planted in 1997, and the winery’s first commercial harvest was in 2003. baltimore bend’s C² (or C-squared) is code for the two grapes used to make the wine: Cynthiana and Chambourcin. this nonvintage blend is produced entirely in stainless steel to retain the fruity, fresh flavor of the grapes. the wine starts with aromas of black cherry, strawberry and dusty, earthy notes and is best served slightly chilled. the palate is medium-bodied, with layers of bright red fruits, vanilla and peppery spice. Baltimore Bend Vineyard, 660.493.0258, baltimorebend.com Ryan Sciara has been in the wine business for more than half his life and has spent the past nine years dedicated to selling wine, spirits and craft beer in the retail market. His latest venture, Underdog Wine Co., is the culmination of 23 years of knowledge and experience all crammed into a 600-square-foot retail shop in Kansas City.
BEER
4 blocks south of the ballpark.
BouleVarD BreWing co.’S ginger-lemon raDler written by branDon niCkelSon
1220 S 8th street, st. louis, Mo, 63104
sTyle: radlermass (4.05% abV) PaIrIngs: Soft Brie • Lobster roll
Historically, radler (which translates to “cyclist” in German) beers are simply a 50:50 mix of light beer and fruit juice or soda, originally developed to rehydrate cyclists. Boulevard Brewing Co.’s take on the style combines wheat beer, lemon juice and lemon extract with fresh ginger juice. with a low abV, fruity sweetness and spiciness imparted by the ginger, Ginger-lemon radler is a refreshing, sessionable beer for the hot summer months ahead. Boulevard Brewing Co., 816.474.7095, boulevard.com Brothers Brandon and Ryan Nickelson are available to help with beer picks and pairing recommendations at their store, Craft Beer Cellar, the only all-craft beer shop in the St. Louis area. Craft Beer Cellar is located at 8113 Maryland Ave. in Clayton, Missouri. To learn more, call 314.222.2444 or visit craftbeercellar.com/clayton.
SPIRIT
Defiant SpiritS’ Defiance WhiSkey
TOWN & COUNTRY May/June Auction Calendar Real Estate Auction May 15 - Arrow Rock Antique Auction Live auction featuring signed Bingham artist proofs, native American paintings, period antiques, 17th c. Spanish vargueño, santos, retablos & Jacobean furniture...
1039 Westmoor Place, 63131 O N L I N E
O N L Y
A U C T I O N
May 17 - African Tribal Art Auction
Online auction of masks & statuary from an amazing KC collection - all original, collected during series of trips over 1970s & ’80s. Preview May 17 @ 1pm
Fine 1.5 story home on 1.07 ac. lot Real estate on this street rarely comes to market. Opening bid has been accepted, so property will positively sell to the highest bidder! posi
June (tba) - Eccentric Artists Auction
Online auction featuring artwork by outsider artists such as Alva Gene Dexhimer, Marlana Stoddard Hayes, Allan Winkler, & etc. -From Allan Winkler’s personal collectionWatch website for details
Eric Iman, Auctioneer
For Details & to Bid visit
www.ImanAuction.com w
816-399-9627
written by Matt Sorrell
calls for rye whiskey.
WARD ON WINE
bourbon remains the spirit of the moment, with more and more distilleries launching their own bottlings across the country. one of the latest regional producers to do so is Defiant Spirits in Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, with the release of its Defiance whiskey. the distillery refers to its bourbon recipe as “high rye,” meaning rye has been added to the predominantly corn mash bill, giving it some spiciness along with the signature sweetness of bourbon. although still young in whiskey years, this spirit has mellowed somewhat thanks to 18 months of aging in new charred american oak.
Wine education, consulting and events for all wine lovers, from the novice to the wine professional.
Provenance: Ste. Genevieve, Missouri (45% abV) Try IT: in a classic Vieux Carre or any cocktail that
Pairing Wine with People
Defiance Whiskey, defiancewhiskey.com When he’s not writing, Matt Sorrell can be found slinging drinks at Planter’s House in St. Louis’ Lafayette Square or bartending at events around town with his wife, Beth, for their company, Cocktails Are Go.
Mike Ward, CS, CWE, CSS 314-779-4995 Inspired Local Food Culture
MAy 2015
31
PHOtOGraPHy by lanDOn VOnDersCHMiDt
where we’re drinking Check out what we’re sipping at bars, breweries, wineries and coffee shops across the region. il
Kc
amigoni urban winery written by Jenny VerGara
PHOtOGraPHy by Jill HeuPel
kANsAs cITy. when Michael and Kerry amigoni first took Vitis vinifera grapes (european grape varietals) and planted them in 2001 in the first acre of their now 10-acre vineyard in Centerview, Missouri, their goal was to sell grapes to local winemakers. Michael had been interested in amateur winemaking since the mid-‘90s, and over time, began to study the skills necessary to produce wine commercially. not long after, he harvested his own grapes to make wines like Cabernet sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Viognier.
old bakery beer co.
Amigoni Urban Winery is located inside the old Daily Drover Telegram newspaper building, which dates back to 1909, in the historic stockyards District in Kansas
City’s west bottoms neighborhood. the winery refers to itself as urban because its grapes are grown just east of town and then harvested and brought back into the city for processing and aging in Missouri oak barrels. the winery’s tasting room is open tuesday through saturday from 11am to 6pm, on Fridays from 11am to 7pm and on sundays from 12pm to 5pm. stop in to sample five wines for $6 or four beers from boulevard brewing Co. for $8. there are also local meat and cheese plates available to enjoy with your beer or wine – including some varietals served on tap. Amigoni Urban Winery, 1505 Genessee St. #100, West Bottoms, Kansas City, Missouri, 913.890.3289, winery.amigoni.com
written by Kyle HarsHa
ALTON, IL. earlier this year, James rogalsky and lauren Pattan opened Old Bakery Beer Co. in alton, illinois. the brewery produces around 12 session-style beers on tap ranging from the clean and refreshing Magnum Pale ale to a slightly more brooding porter. the brewery also offers wine from local producers like Grafton winery, st. James winery and blue sky Vineyard. whatever your poison, pair it with the brewery’s pub-style eats, which include sandwiches, salads and snacks like fried pretzels with beer cheese.
Old Bakery Beer Co., 400 Landmarks Blvd., Alton, Illinois, 618.463.1470, oldbakerybeer.com
PHOtOGraPHy by JessiCa sPenCer
mo
scotch & soda sPRINGFIELD, MO. lodged between a dueling piano bar and a cozy italian restaurant in springfield, Missouri, you’ll find Scotch & Soda, where patrons are sent back in time to an age when a vodka-cranberry was known as a Cape Codder. inside, the walls drip with vintage elegance. the massive back bar swallows one whole wall, and the dark
32
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
written by ettie berneKinG
stained-wood shelving gleams in the low lighting. High-top tables are littered with tinctures, and in the back, sleek leather sofas round out the lounge. On sunny days, expect to find the front window wide open and lined with bar stools as apron-clad bartenders buzz behind the bar. “we wanted timeless,” says co-owner Josh widner. “the style speaks to the ‘30s
and ‘40s with low lighting and different levels of seating.” but more than creating an impeccably stylish bar, widner and coowner andrew Heilman wanted to create an experience for guests. the bar serves whiskey and scotch flights that range from $40 to $250, barrel-aged cocktails that change with the seasons and staples like the belgian blood & sand with
blended scotch, orange and sour cherry ale. this spring, guests can cool down with the bella Morte made with muddled strawberries, basil, gin, simple syrup, lime juice and aged balsamic vinegar. Scotch & Soda, 310 South Ave., Downtown, Springfield, Missouri, 417.719.4224, thescotchandsoda.com
ONE ON ONE
KC
zaid consuegra founder, pirate’s bone coffee WRITTEN BY BETHANY CHRISTO
KANSAS CITY. In January,
Zaid Consuegra opened Brookside’s newest teeny-tiny coffee shop, Pirate’s Bone Coffee. Initially, Consuegra was pan-roasting all of his coffee beans, a method born of his kitchen tinkering at Happy-X, the now-shuttered Lenexa, Kansas, restaurant that he formerly owned. In order to make coffee, Consuegra took out a clean pan and “cooked” the beans. As he did more research, he learned that pan-roasting has a storied place in the history of coffee-bean roasting, which inspired the shop’s name – he says he “pirated” the traditional preparation method and made it his own. Pan-roasted cups of coffee are only one of the offerings at Pirate’s Bone – Consuegra recently began selling cups and bottles of refreshingly spicy, sweet and sippable Mexican cold-brew coffee (also sold at The Bite sandwich shop in River Market) and screen-printed T-shirts made by a local Mexican artist.
Pirate’s Bone Coffee, 645 E. 59th St., Brookside, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.287.1433, piratesbonecoffee.com
www.sugarcreekwines.com | info: bmiller@sugarcreekwines.com
125 Boone Country Lane Defiance, MO 63341 Open Every Day 10:30am – 5:30pm
Live Music Every Weekend Afternoon
Fabulous Evening Concerts in our New Hilltop Pavilion
22 beers on tap 50+ beers by bottle & can
NOW OPEN!
EDGE WILD Bi
st r
p o & Ta
Creve Coeur
www.edgewildbistro.com 314.548.2222 12316 Olive Boulevard
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TERESA FLOYD
How did you discover the pan-roasting method? Food is my background. People kept talking about coffee being a fruit, and I said I’m going to treat it like food. I had all types of pans at Happy-X, and I just grabbed the chicken pan and started cooking a half-pound of green coffee beans. I had no idea what I was even supposed to be watching for, but I heard the telltale “first crack.” I thought I was the coolest cat in the yard until a couple days later when I read about how pan-roasting was a traditional preparation. But it’s a process that people have gotten away from because it takes time and patience. Where do you source your beans from? For our big batches, I use Sweet Maria’s and local Maps Coffee Roasters. I’ve been making an effort to get Latino-sourced beans, and I just teamed up with a Guatemalan coffee farmer [after] meeting his son at the shop. They’re a very young farm; I think their plants are only 3 years old. They did about 100 pounds on their last batch, and I’m using them all, 10 pounds at a time. I pan-roasted all of those beans because they’re special, and pan-roasting beans brings out the flavors more than any other way of preparing beans that I’ve tried. Why is sourcing beans from Latin America important to you? As a Mexico City native and a member of the Latino community, [I feel that] no one’s catering to us. Right now we are using beans from Panama and Brazil, Colombia, Mexico – coffees that taste of home or at least are a connection to where they’re from. I want to cater to everybody and not just be, “the Latino coffee shop” … but getting that support from the Latino community is important to me. I think it would be positive to see a young business owner trying to make it in an industry that isn’t typically Latino-run. What are your best sellers? Unexpectedly, the Bowl of Soul – consisting of local honey, frothed milk and black tea is our No. 1 seller. It’s warm and hugs you when you need some support. With the warmer weather, we added Mexican cold-brew coffee [made] with cinnamon, cacao and sugar, served with my housemade “coffee cubes,” frozen cubes of coffee that don’t dilute your drink as they melt. We’re also offering cold-brew teas; they’re a perfect summer drink that have coffee and tea flavor, but are very smooth and sweet. What’s your favorite part of owning the shop? Sharing coffee with somebody is the best part of drinking a cup. If I get a walk-in [customer] five minutes after I open, I’ll stop and share a cup with them and lend an ear. We go to coffee shops and get on our phone or tablet, but we forget that coffee shops started for conversation.
O
ur winery is surrounded by acres of vineyards overlooking the Missouri river valley, thus making our location a step above the rest. We have unique venues for Wedding Ceremonies, Receptions, Corporate Events, Reunions, Birthday and Bachelorette Parties, etc…nothing is too small or too large. Just give us a call. We look forward to helping host your next special event. 636-987-2400
EDGE WILD
WINE DOWN WEDNESDAYS
1/2 price bottles of wine ($99 list price and under)
Chesterfield
550 Chesterfield Center
www.edgewildwinery.com | 636.532.0550 Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
33
drinK deStinAtiOn: PAOLA, KAnSAS
somerset ridge vineyard & winery written by Pete Dulin
PAOLA, KS. when Dennis and Cindy reynolds founded
Somerset Ridge Vineyard & Winery in Paola, Kansas, almost 20 years ago, Dennis thought the limestone ridge and long days of sunlight on the property would be conducive to growing grapes like Cabernet Franc. the reynolds began planting grapevines in 1998, established the winery in 2001 and expanded operations four years later. today, the vineyard encompasses more than 8,000 grapevines, and the winery produces 5,000 cases of wine a year. Somerset ridge, one of four licensed wineries on the Somerset wine trail in Kansas, grows both traditional european Vitis vinifera as well as French-American hybrids. Somerset Ridge Vineyard & Winery, 29725 Somerset Road, Paola, Kansas, 913.294.9646, somersetridge.com
PhotogrAPhy CourteSy SoMerSet riDge VineyArD & winery
three must-try sips | 1 | A cross between Seyval and Chardonnay, Somerset’s 2013 chardonel produces rich, dry wine with initial tropical fruit flavors and a crisp finish of pear and green apple.
| 2 | Somerset’s 2011 cabernet franc reserve is fermented in small lots and aged in new American oak barrels. the rich, supple wine has a bouquet of violets and flavors of crushed raspberry and dark fruits.
| 3 | Somerset was the first winery in the world to make wine from the groundbreaking Crimson Cabernet grape, a cross of Cabernet Sauvignon and native norton. the 2010 vintage won a Medal of American excellence at the Jefferson Cup invitational wine competition. try the 2011 crimson cabernet barrel reserve, with intense dark fruit and black currant flavors.
One On One como
lydia melton
Why did you install the wine-on-tap system? you always want to be able to offer great wine, but that’s really hard to do because not all wine is for everyone. to have a wide and good selection is not 34
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
WRitten by ValeRia tuRtuRRo Klamm
going to be cheap, and you’re going to be opening a wide variety of bottles, which means you’re probably not going to sell all of it unless you’re a wine bar. one of our holdbacks was wondering how we could offer a wide selection [that was] really good without [being wasteful]. one of my staff members suggested it would be cool to have one or two wines on tap, and we thought, “Why stop there?” We started looking at a lot of different systems, and eight [taps] is the max for now. How does the system work? We buy a 20-liter barrel of wine that’s pressurized. the benefit is that light and oxygen don’t hit [the wine]. it protects wine a lot better in the barrel than it does in a bottle. For that reason, winemakers are starting to turn to this [system] because not only is it more cost effective, but it [also] actually keeps their wine the way they intended it to be for a longer period of time. We hook [the barrels] up to our system that has nitrogen. When
wine comes out of the tap, that’s the first time it’s ever hit air. What are the benefits of the system? because oxygen never hits [the wine], it’s going to be a fresh glass every single time. We chose to go with higher-end wineries, so the cool thing is that because you’re buying it in a barrel, you’re not paying for the packaging costs, so it actually makes it a lot cheaper for the consumer in the end. What wines do you have on tap? We’re constantly switching out wine varietals – it depends on what runs out and when. i’m really big on people being able to try wine from different regions, so we might have a Greek wine, a
French wine, an italian wine. i try to get people off the beaten path a little bit. Günter Hans, 7 Hitt St., Downtown, Columbia, Missouri, 573.256.1205, gunterhans.com
PhotogrAPhy by AAron ottiS
COLUMBIA, MO. Wine on tap, a growing trend at wineries and restaurants across the country, has found its way to Columbia, missouri, at Günter Hans. located Downtown, the europeaninfluenced café and pub serves a limited but well-curated menu of made-fromscratch “bretzels” and liege waffles, gelato, cheeses and various craft beers. owner lydia melton introduced wine on tap at the restaurant in December, making it the first restaurant to do so in Columbia. “our beer selection is really well known in Columbia,” melton says. “We try to serve things nobody else has so people can try things and not feel committed. We really wanted to do that with the wine program, as well.”
owner, günter hans
find out how trees protect our water - www.TREESWORK.org Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
35
KENTUCKY DERBY - May 2
· BEST DERBY HAT CONTEST! Win a Prize! · Hot Brown Beignet & Benedictine Tea Sandwiches · Mint Juleps, Tequila Juleps & More
T C
PREAKNESS STAKES - May 16
SanctuariaSTL.com/kentucky-derby-day
· “DRESS YOUR BET” CONTEST! Win a Prize! · Crab Cakes & East Coast Fried Oyster Sliders · Mint Juleps, Black-Eyed Susans & More Doors open at 3p.m. - No Reservations Accepted Register to compete in contests by 4:30p.m.
CINCO
DJ HURLEY 6PM - 10PM
MAYO
DE
LIVE DJ!
May 5, 2015
SanctuariaSTL.com ◉ (314) 535-9700 ◉ 4198 Manchester Ave., St. Louis,, MO
The Infamous CHICKEN DROP * Food & Drink Specials * Boozy Olympics * Prize Giveaways DiablitosCantina.com • (314) 644-4430 • 3761 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, MO
May 10, 2015 Impress Mom with a brunch like no other! Chef ’s Specials! 36
feastmagazine.com
Brunch hours h from fr 11 11am-3pm 3pm | Reservations Recommended ecommended SanctuariaSTL.com ◉ (314) 535-9700 ◉ 4198 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, MO
MAY 2015
Dishes to delight!
take flight
brighten up happy hour on p. 40 PhotograPhy courtesy true Fabrications
shOp hERE
stl
the fresh market PhOtOGraPhy by J. POLLaCk PhOtOGraPhy
written by Sarah FenSke
CREVE COEUR, MO. The Fresh Market, which opened its first Missouri location in Creve Coeur in February, has a dedicated following in the 27 states where it’s set up shop, and it’s easy to see why. Founded in 1982, the Greensboro, north Carolina-based chain features clean design and a smartly curated assortment of products.
at 25,000 square feet, the Creve Coeur shop boasts one of the company’s larger footprints, but it still feels more like a neighborhood market than a superstore. if you’re a regular, staffers won’t just learn your name; they’ll also offer you the chance to sample food before your purchase. the store’s bakery selection is vast (40 kinds of breads and rolls, nine flavors of pie) and the aromas are intoxicating. District manager amy Donati, who got her start with the company through its bakery department, raves about the nut breads, which are all made in-house. “there is more than one real banana in every loaf of banana-nut bread,” she says. “we use real pecans, real walnuts, fresh zucchini. everything is wholesome and good, just like you’d make it at home.”
Three MusT-buYs froM The fresh MArkeT
inspired to roll up your sleeves? in the produce section, you can hand-grind your own peanut butter – or get fancy and make it almond or honey-roasted. Fresh Market’s new store coordinator, Joe Duncan, admits that the Creve Coeur location is something of a trial balloon. if it does well, other St. Louis locations are likely to follow. “we’re hoping the greater St. Louis area provides opportunities to expand,” says Duncan, himself a native St. Louisian. The Fresh Market, 11557 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, Missouri, 314.692.8471, thefreshmarket.com
| 1 | the store’s numerous bulk
offerings include delicious dried okra, which is vacuum-fried for a crisp texture minus the expected oiliness. at $12.99/lb, they’re a great alternative to potato chips. Green bean chips are another healthy snack option, made the same way and sold in bulk for the same price.
| 2 | the store is proud of its local offerings, with signs throughout the store highlighting products sourced from a 100-mile radius. in addition to kuva Coffee roasters, Fitz’s sodas and more, the store stocks raw honey from bekemeier’s in neosho, Missouri, and bee blessed acres in winfield, Missouri.
gEt this gadgEt
keepsake cork cheese knife written by Diana Gray, CO-Owner, GraPevine wineS
this spreader allows you to keep special corks forever. Just screw your cork onto the end of the knife and remember your special night or bottle of wine for years to come. this is a perfect gift to give with a bottle of wine or Champagne to commemorate a wedding, birthday, anniversary or graduation. For more details or to purchase artisan-made cheese knives, visit grapevinewinesandspirits.com. PhOtOGraPhy COurteSy GraPevine wineS
38
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
| 3 | among the extensive grab-andgo offerings, the Fresh Market offers a monthly “Little Big Meal” on thursdays, intended to feed a family of four for just $20. Past offerings have included a spaghetti dinner with salad and fruit, “Curry in a hurry” and a slow-cooker meal with your choice of chicken or pork.
Protect Your Kitchen from Fire Hazard!
get tHiS gADget
vinturi mini wine aerator
Our kitchen exhaust cleaning professionals are trained and certified to inspect, and service your kitchen exhaust system from roof-top to cook-top. Experience the HOODZ difference for yourself.
written by Laura Laiben, “the Main Dish,” the cuLinary center of Kansas city
For more details or to purchase an aerator, visit vinturi.com.
PhotograPhy courtesy Vinturi
wine-lovers should consider this their new best friend. it’s a smaller, more portable version of Vinturi’s award-wining wine aerator, a device that provides the ideal amount of aeration for the best version of each wine’s intended flavor and aroma. simply hold the aerator over a glass and pour the wine through it before serving. slip it in your purse or pocket, and suddenly there is no excuse not to have a really great glass of wine.
Some of our satisfied customers are:
in the heart of kcMo.
hoodz.us.com/stlouissouth
Call Now For Free Inspection & Estimate
314-222-8117
ARtiSAn pRoDUct
waldomo.com
ks
written by Jenny Vergara
DURHAM, KS. Jason Wiebe and his family run a third-generation
dairy farm, Jason Wiebe Dairy, in Durham, Kansas, on land that was once the Santa Fe Trail. The farm makes raw cheeses as well as cheese made with pasteurized cow’s milk. One of its best-selling products is its signature Cottonwood River Cheddar made in collaboration with St. Louis’ CheezSorce, an aged Cheddar made with raw milk that has a sweet, nutty flavor. To learn more or to place an order, visit jasonwiebedairy.com.
PhotograPhy courtesy Jason wiebe Dairy
jason wiebe dairy’s cottonwood river cheddar
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAy 2015
39
get thiS gADget
truetap wine key written by Laura Laiben, “the Main Dish,” the CuLinary Center of Kansas City
For more details or to purchase a wine key, visit truefabrications.com.
one on one United Provisions
stl
jimmy fareh
founder and president, rustic grain
Written by bethany Christo
Death in the Afternoon
Juniper
Why did you launch Rustic Grain? Driving here on i-70 east, starting from around Columbus, ohio, every 2 miles i’d [see] an abandoned structure. i grew up working with wood as a hobby on weekends with my dad back in Connecticut, building dining room tables as a fun thing to do together. it dropped off as i got older, but when we were passing by all these barns, the seed was planted. after spending a king’s ransom at restoration hardware with my wife for my [home] here – and 30,000 other people have those same pieces – i realized the potential of taking wood out of these barns, documenting the history and offering them to customers. it adds to the character of the piece; no one else will have something like it. We stick to a 90-mile radius around st. Louis, and the majority
PhotograPhy Courtesy rustiC grain
Seedz Cafe
40
feastmagazine.com
CRESTWOOD, MO. after leaving a tech position in new york to move to st. Louis three years ago, entrepreneur Jimmy Fareh noticed an alarming amount of vacant, decaying barns along interstate 70. the structures were built to serve a purpose, and Fareh now gives them new life through Rustic Grain, the business he founded in 2013. since the launch, Fareh and his team have deconstructed four large barns from the top down – including one in st. Clair, Missouri, and one in edwardsville, illinois – as well as three other structures to make one-of-akind residential and commercial tabletops, bars, accent pieces and more. once pieces are finished, rustic Grain tags each with the location and history of where the wood initially came from. restaurant clients in the greater st. Louis area include Death in the afternoon, seedz Café, United Provisions and Juniper – including its new second floor event space – and the company is currently working on brew hub’s Chesterfield, Missouri, corporate headquarters.
MAY 2015
of barns we’re finding in the Midwest are made with pine and oak. How has Rustic Grain grown? We started as a two-man operation, with me and our current vice president of production and design, tim nummela, [inside] a 900-square-foot retail front in a Kirkwood strip mall. We’ve now expanded to eight employees and a 15,000-square-foot modern warehouse. We have a lead on 75 barns in Missouri, illinois, arkansas and even upstate new york that people want to donate. originally, a restaurant would take 12 to 16 weeks to complete; now we can do it in four to eight. We can do all the tabletops at once in one day, which would’ve taken us a week to do [before], and we can work on multiple restaurants or projects at a time. What have been some of your favorite projects to work on? We’re 50:50 residential and commercial. residentially, we took down one of the Cupples buildings and made a 14-foot table. We were given this 850-pound, 26-by-26-foot pylon beam from the basement, all pine, which the whole building rested on, and cut it into thirds. the third serves as a pedestal for the table, essentially, and this person is only one of three who can have it. the coolest thing we’ve done commercially would be the chandeliers at Death in the afternoon. at night they cast these crazy shadows everywhere, which was just a coincidental by-product of the design. they set the restaurant apart, but i like it because it transitioned us from more simple products like tables and bars and catapulted us into fine-dining design – reclaimed wood is very hard to bend, so proving to ourselves that we could make it was a big step in our creativity and what we can offer. Rustic Grain, 9420 Watson Industrial Park, Crestwood, Missouri, 314.422.4667, rusticgrain.com
PhotograPhy Courtesy true fabriCations
no bona fide waiter would be caught without one of these in his or her pocket! this classic double-hinged corkscrew is simply the best – and the one most recommended by experts. the compact corkscrew feels good in your hand, and best of all, it’s fashioned in a fun bird shape (for what that’s worth) and comes in a range of bright colors.
Exhibition tickets available at
nelson-atkins.org Adults: $12 Under 12: FREE Members: FREE
Curated by Brett Littman. Organized by The Drawing Center, NY. Dom Pérignon is the presenting partner for this exhibition.
45th & O Oak, Kansas City, Missouri
Homemade Greek Food Carry out • Catering Private Parties Gyros • Kebobs • Baklava 1 year
$30
or
2 year
$56
feastmagazine.com
oLYmPIa keBoB HoUSe aNd TaVerNa Patio Now open 7 days a week from 11am 1543 McCausland • 314-781-1299
Friday, Saturday & Sunday | May 15 – 17 Live Entertainment—Artists—Wine Tastings—Food Court Saturday, May 16 10 am – 8 pm | Sunday, May 17 10 am – 4pm
Sunday, May 17 12 pm – 3pm Tickets are $20 in advance and $25 at the door Presented by Feast Magazine
Learn more about pairing great food with fabulous Missouri wines.
1/2 OFF BOTTLE OR GLASS OF WINE 618.307.9613
Judges from Feast Magazine will be on hand to choose this year’s winner and hand out the People’s Choice Award.
www.downtownwashmo.org | 636-239-1743
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAy 2015
41
Shop here
kc
PHOTOGrAPHy by TereSA FLOyD
gomer’s midtown KANSAS CITY. There are five Gomer’s
Fine Wine and Spirits locations in the greater Kansas City area, but it’s the Midtown location that is frequented by those in the service industry. Centrally located for most restaurants in Westport, Country Club Plaza, Downtown and on bustling 39th Street, Gomer’s Midtown is where
WrITTen by Jenny VerGArA
you’ll find chefs picking up shift beers on their way to work and craft cocktail bartenders looking for hard-to-find vermouth. The store carries a decent selection of beer and spirits, but its wine selection is not to be missed. Although small in size, Gomer’s Midtown always seems to have exactly
ArTISAN produCT
what you want and even a few things you didn’t know you needed. If they don’t happen to have what you’re looking for, wine director Jim Coley is happy to take special orders. Coley’s sage advice always comes from the desire to help, and whether you’re looking for something international or domestic, within a certain budget or
mo
cave vineyard’s biscotti WrITTen by LIz MILLer
STe. GeNeVIeVe, M Mo. Laura Oliver, tasting room
manager of Cave Vineyard in Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, says the inspiration for the winery’s biscotti bar is rooted in her family’s Italian heritage. In Italy, the almond-flavored pastry is dunked in coffee or wine to soften its crunchy exterior. At Cave Vineyard, guests are encour encouraged to do the same with the winery’s 12 or so flavors of made-from-scratch biscotti, which Oliver and her mother bake fresh each week. Spring flavors include dark cherry and dark chocolate; goat cheese and herbes de Ste. Genevieve; and Grandma’s Almond, the bestselling flavor made with Oliver’s grandmother’s recipe. Oliver says the winery’s Chambourcin pairs well with all of the aforementioned flavors, while its white unoaked Bianco Secco made with Chardonel grapes complements the strawberry -pistachio biscotti made with fresh strawberries. Cave Vineyard, 21124 Cave Road, Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, 573.543.5284, cavevineyard.com
Dessert for two
if money is of no object, he can steer you toward the right bottle for every occasion. Coley knows every bottle on the shelf and is happy to share his knowledge with you. Gomer’s Midtown, 3838 Broadway Blvd., Midtown, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.931.4170, gomersmidtown.com
CulINArY lIbrArY
by Christina Lane dessertfortwo.com WrITTen by LIz MILLer
When self-described home baker Christina Lane launched dessertfortwo.com, her mission was simple: pare down the beloved dessert recipes she grew up baking to suit her single-person household. A bornand-raised Texan with family roots in the Carolinas, many of her recipes pull from Southern traditions, such as adding mayonnaise to devil’s food cake to make it more tender. Lane now resides in St. Louis, and in February, the sum of her work was published in Dessert for Two. Many of the two-serving recipes call for specific bakeware such as ramekins (to make treats like personal pineapple upside-down cakes and Texas peach cobbler), small baking dishes (for biscuit whiskey bread pudding and blackberry cobbler) and muffin pans (think mini sour cream pound cakes and hot fudge sundae cupcakes). Lane’s creativity especially shines through in desserts made with familiar flavors in less-than-familiar applications such as salted butterscotch pudding pops and chocolate-caramel Mason jar lid tarts. oNlINe eXTrA
enter to win a copy of Christina Lane’s Dessert for Two cookbook by visiting feastmagazine.com.
Located in the boutique Hotel Ignacio and serving the freshest fish in St. Louis flown in directly from Hawaii. Our chic Lobby Lounge with an indoor fireplace is unlike anything else in town and perfect for your next event
For the chef you love Made in the USA, and as selected by Top Chef’s Tom Colicchio, NHB KnifeWorks orks unique culinary knives are designed by professionally trained, St. Louis chef and co-owner/knife-maker, Nathaniel Bonnerr. Each knife is made from high-grade stainless, high carbon or Damascus steel, which is then coupled with a one-of-a-kind, individually cast, hand-made handle. The result is a unique knife that is balanced, ho olds its edge, and is as beautiful as it is functional. Whether professionally
Lunch Tuesday - Friday Happy Hour $5 Maki Rolls Kitchen Open Until Midnight Weekends DJ’s Friday and Saturday
trained or just very “at home” in the kitchen, an NHB knife is the perfect gift for the chef you love on Mother’s Day!
Contact us at: NHB KnifeWorks 314-776-3800 info@nhbknifeworks.com nhbknifeworks.com 4155 Beck Avenue, St. Louis, Missouri 63116
3407 Olive Street St Louis MO 63103 Tel: 314-896-2500 BaiKuStl.com
� � � � � �� � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �
������������ � ������������ � ������������� Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
43
skip the flowers this Mother’s Day
Give Her Something Chocolate, Juicy & Heavenly ...
ONLY FOR A
limited time
PLAZA FRONTENAC | 32 MARYLAND PLAZA | WWW.BISSINGERS.COM |
44
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
mystery shopper
find a spread of roses on p. 48 PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG
seed to table
redbud flowerSaSSafraS TarTleT some of the first trees to bloom in a Midwestern spring are flowering dogwoods, wild plums, hawthorns and eastern redbuds. the latter, in particular, are absolutely stunning; an ornamental in many yards, redbud trees are typically found as an understory tree bordering wooded areas, in woodland habitats, along bluff lines and throughout glades. redbud trees form striking purplish-pink clusters of small blossoms on branches well before leaves form. in late spring and summer, the trees can be identified by their heart-shaped leaves. redbud blossoms are edible and have a sweet, nutty flavor. typically, they are pickled, used to garnish salads or
story and recipe by crystal stevens photography by Jennifer silverberg
added to water to infuse sweetness. they are only available from March through May, depending on temperature.
Redbud FlowerSassafras Tartlet
another flowering tree to be on the lookout for this spring is sassafras. according to the University of illinois extension’s Master gardener program, the plant’s green winter buds and young leaves are edible and safe to consume in small amounts. sassafras leaves have a root-beer aroma when crushed and can be distinguished by their mitten shape in the summer months. they are one of the few trees that have three unique leaf shapes.
The sweet nuttiness of redbud petals pairs well with creamy, rich goat cheese. Serve tartlets with fresh morel mushrooms sautéed lightly in oil and seasoned with salt and pepper. Tartlets pair well with Vignoles, a white wine with notes of pear, citrus and tart green apple, that’s produced and sold at many regional wineries.
Crystal Stevens is a farmer at La Vista CSA Farm on the bluffs of the Mississippi River in Godfrey, Illinois, where she farms with her husband, Eric. They have two children. Crystal is an advocate of integrating creativity into sustainability through writing, art, photojournalism and seed-to-table cooking. Find more of her work at growingcreatinginspiring.blogspot.com, which she created to launch her forthcoming book, grow create inspire.
Serves | 12 | Filling
1 12 2 ¼ 2 1 1
cup redbud flower petals, washed, divided sassafras buds or young leaves, washed, divided 8-oz packages goat cheese, softened cup coconut milk eggs tsp sea salt tsp freshly ground black pepper
Crust
½ 2 2 ¾ ¾ 1⁄8 1½
cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more cups almond flour Tbsp ground flaxseed meal tsp baking soda tsp sea salt tsp dried thyme leaves Tbsp cold water
| Preparation – Filling | in a large bowl, combine ½ cup redbud flower petals, half of sassafras buds or leaves, goat cheese, coconut milk and eggs, and season with salt and pepper. set aside. | Preparation – Crust | preheat oven to 325ºf. oil 12 compartments of a standard muffin tin. in a large mixing bowl, add all dry ingredients and spices and whisk to combine. in a small bowl, whisk together oil and water. fold this mixture into dry ingredients until completely combined. divide mixture into 12 equal-sized balls. press each ball into the cupcake tins, leaving a nice deep edging in each tin. if desired, use a fork to leave decorative indentations around the edges. transfer crusts to oven to bake for about 5 minutes. remove from oven. add filling on top of crusts. Using a pastry brush, brush the tops of each tartlet with a small amount of olive oil and top each tartlet with sassafras leaves. bake for 15 to 20 minutes on the top rack of the oven, or until crusts are golden brown. garnish with remaining sassafras leaves and redbud petals, drizzle with remaining olive oil and serve.
Anticipation
The Ultimate Home Design & Lifestyle Experience Celebrate the Grand Opening of Our New Showroom Expansion
Spring 2015
Portfolio K i t c h e n
&
h o m e
Fl a gshi p St ore 215 W. Pershing Road Kansas City Missouri 64108 816.363.5300
Geri Higgins
Cabinetry Countertops Tile Appliances Distinctive Plumbing Hardware Lighting ▪ And So Much More
www. p ortf oli o - home .c om Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
47
mystery shopper
MeeT: RoSe HipS Rose hips: quite possibly the only time when the bloom being “off the rose” means something tart and delectable is headed your way.
SToRy AnD RECiPE By ShAnnon WEBER PhoTogRAPhy By JEnniFER SiLvERBERg
dried rose hips from most natural or heath food stores – opt for the seedless variety and save yourself some prep time. What Do I Do WIth It?
What Is It?
Rose hips are the vitamin C-packed fruit of a wild rose plant that grows in the wake of bloomed flowers. Forage for them in late summer into early fall, but be sure to do so before birds beat you to it. Better yet, skip the hunt altogether and grab
Although its use in tea is widely known, dried rose hips can be easily rehydrated and used to make purées, jams or syrups. The intensely sour, slightly floral flavor lends itself well to the relaxed sweetness of summer fruit, so pair it with berries, grapes or peaches to upgrade fruity desserts.
Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com, and her work has appeared on websites such as Bon Appétit, Serious Eats and America’s Test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and in life.
Crostini with Roasted Grapes and Rose Hip Purée Roasted fruit works well slightly warm or at room temperature, so take your time putting these together, preparing things in stages as needed. Serves | 16 | Rose hIp puRée
3 ¾ ½ 1
oz dried seedless rose hips cup hot water cup cold water Tbsp honey
RoasteD GRapes WIth RosemaRy anD thyme
2½ 2 1 ½ 1 2
lbs black or red seedless grapes Tbsp olive oil tsp kosher salt tsp freshly ground black pepper Tbsp plus 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves sprigs rosemary leaves, finely chopped
BasIc cRostInI
1 ½
1
12 oz French baguette, sliced diagonally into ¼-inch pieces cup olive oil sea salt and freshly ground black pepper cup labneh (kefir cheese)
| Preparation – Rose Hip Purée | Add rose hips to a medium bowl; pour hot water over top, stirring to incorporate. Allow to cool to room temperature. Transfer to refrigerator for at least 8 hours or overnight to soften. Remove from refrigerator and allow to come to room temperature. Place in blender with ½ cup cold water and purée until smooth. Push through fine-mesh strainer to remove solids; stir in honey. Set aside.
| Preparation – Roasted Grapes with Rosemary and Thyme | Preheat oven
to 425ºF. Line a lipped baking sheet with parchment paper. Toss grapes with remaining ingredients until coated; spread in a single layer onto prepared sheet. Roast for 20 to 25 minutes, until softened and cooked through; remove and allow to cool.
| Preparation – Basic Crostini |
Decrease oven temperature to 375ºF and line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. Brush both sides of baguette slices with olive oil; season with salt and pepper. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, turning halfway through, until crostini are golden and toasted on both sides. Allow to cool.
| To Serve | Spread 1½ to 2 tsp labneh
on each crostini; drizzle each with ¼ tsp rose hip purée. Add roasted grapes with rosemary and thyme over top. Season to taste with salt and pepper as needed and serve immediately.
48
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
���������� ���
�������������������
����� ���� Vietnamese & Chinese Restaurant A "FEAST" Favorite!
HURRY!
Thank You all Local Area Chefs for Making Us #1 breakfast brunch lunch cocktails 4059 BROADWAY, KANSAS CITY, MO 64111
(816) 931-4401 THECORNERKC.COM
Located in the Meridian Shopping Center at Hanley & Eager Roads behind the Best Buy.
FREE PARKING IN THE METRO LINK GARAGE Tu-Th: 11am-9pm • Fr-Su 11am-10pm 8396 Musick Memorial Dr. • 314.645.2835 www.MaiLeeSTL.com
We Desig Restauran n ts!
Sale ends May 30.
45% off
OR
1
installation
0% APR WITH 36 MONTHS TO PAY 2
More choices. More ways to fit your budget. When it comes to window and door replacement, one size does not fit all. That’s why Pella Windows and Doors offers more styles, sizes and material types to choose from—including beautiful wood, durable fiberglass or low-maintenance vinyl. The end result: you’ll enjoy a great value on the product that’s right for your home. We promise.
Request your FREE, in-home consultation by May 30 to enjoy limited-time savings. CALL: CLICK: VISIT:
BUY, SELL OR TRADE Equipment with BCL. Online Shopping Now Available! Largest Provider of Pre-Owned Equipment in the Midwest! We carry New, too! Visit us Weekdays | 5 Minutes East of the Arch | bclRestaurantSupply.com
BID & SAVE ON THESE LOCAL AUCTIONS: Food Service Equipment • New Home Furnishings & Appliances • Medical Supplies • Tools • Automotive Supplies • Lawn & Garden Restaurant Equipment, New Mattresses,Home Furnishings, Overstock Items & Tools, Estate & Much More!
bclauction.com
866-448-5784 PellaStLouis.com your local Pella showroom
Maryland Heights, 54 Weldon Parkway Sunset Hills, 3802 S. Lindbergh, Suite 104
window & door replacement
1Valid for installation on replacement projects only and must be installed by Pella professionals. Discount applies to retail list price of installation services. Only valid on select Pella® products and installation methods. Not valid with any other offer or promotion. Repairs to existing products and prior sales excluded. Other restrictions may apply. See store for details. To be eligible for advertised offers, in-home consultation must be scheduled by 05/30/2015 and purchase must be made by 06/06/2015. 2The Pella Windows & Doors Visa® credit card is issued by Wells Fargo Financial National Bank, an Equal Housing Lender. Special terms apply to qualifying purchases charged with approved credit at participating merchants. The special terms APR will continue to apply until all qualifying purchases are paid in full. The minimum monthly payment for this purchase will be the amount that will pay for the purchase in full in equal payments during the promotional (special terms) period. The APR for purchases will apply to certain fees such as a late payment fee or if you use the card for other transactions. For newly opened accounts, the APR for purchases is 27.99%. This APR may vary with the market based on the U.S. Prime Rate and is given as of 04/01/2015. If you are charged interest in any billing cycle, the minimum interest charge will be $1.00. If you use the card for cash advances, the cash advance fee is 5% of the amount of the cash advance, but not less than $10.00. Offers expire 05/30/2015.
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
49
Over 10,000 bottles More than 1,500 labels Top 225 in the world Among only 99 in the country 100 wines by the glass The only one in the state. 50
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
We can tell you all about our impressive numbers, we can tell you that London and New York bragged about us... But you’ll have to visit yourself to fully experience our commitment and passion for fine wines of the world.
TRUFFLES & BUTCHERY
9202 CLAYTON RD., SAINT LOUIS, MO 63124 E: INFO@TODAYATTRUFFLES.COM T: 314.567.9100 & 7258 @ TRUFFLESSTL @BUTCHERYSTL
www.todayattruffles.com Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
51
menu options
steamed clams With Bacon and White Beans In honor of Feast Magazine’s annual regional wine issue, we decided to develop an entire menu around wine varietals produced in Missouri, including Vidal Blanc, Chambourcin and Port. This recipe was developed to pair with Vidal Blanc, a French-American hybrid grape used to produce dry, full-bodied white wine. Vidal’s inherent fruity, citrus flavors make it an ideal pairing with seafood and sauces made with olive oil, butter or light cream, which is why we’re pairing it with steamed clams, bacon lardons and white beans. Chambourcin, a medium-bodied
STOry And reCIPe By GABrIelle deMICHele PHOTOGrAPHy By JennIfer SIlverBerG
red wine with jammy flavors, is extremely food-friendly and especially complements red meat, pork and rich earthy foods, which is why we’ll be pairing it with grilled bone-in pork chops and grilled aïoli potatoes at this month’s cooking class. For dessert, we’ll be making chocolate ganache tarts paired with Port, which is made by adding Brandy to fermenting wine; in Missouri, many Ports are made with Norton wine. We’ll be pairing Port with chocolate, but it also pairs well with dried fruit such as figs and apricots, as well as sauces made with chocolate, nutmeg or cinnamon.
Make the Meal • Montelle Winery’s Peachy Spritzer • Cheese Course with Big O ginger liqueur • Steamed Clams with Bacon and White Beans with Adam Puchta Winery’s Vidal Blanc • Grilled Bone-In Pork Chops with Cherry Mostarda • Grilled Aïoli Potatoes with Stone Hill Winery’s Chambourcin • Chocolate Ganache Tart with Augusta Winery’s Port
Learn More. In this class you’ll learn all about clams – their differences and how to properly clean and prepare them. You’ll also learn how to pair wine with a variety of foods, including red meat, seafood and dessert.
get hands-on: Join Feast Magazine and schnucks Cooks Cooking school on Wed., May 27, at 6pm at the des Peres, Missouri, location, to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $40 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at schnuckscooks.com or call 314.909.1704.
Steamed Clams with Bacon and White Beans Serves | 4 to 6 | 1 4 16 2 8 2 3 2 2 5 1 3 to 5 1 ½ 6 to 8
lb package dry great Northern white beans cold water cups clam juice, divided clams ice Tbsp grapeseed oil oz smoky bacon, cut into lardons medium onions, diced large carrots, scrubbed and diced pieces celery, cleaned and diced salt and freshly ground black pepper red bell peppers, roasted, seeded and julienned garlic cloves, roughly chopped cup dry white wine sprigs thyme cup heavy cream bunch flat-leaf parsley tsp extra virgin olive oil
| Preparation | The night before
preparing the dish, transfer beans to a glass bowl and add just enough cold water to cover. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside. When ready to prepare the dish, drain beans, transfer to a large pot over high heat, cover with 2 cups clam juice and enough water to cover beans and bring to a boil. When mixture reaches a boil, turn heat down to medium and cook about 1 hour or until beans are tender but not mushy. Set aside. Meanwhile, place a colander in the sink and add clams. Rinse with cold water, scrubbing them with a brush to remove sand or loose shells. Rinse 3 or 4 times. Set aside, covered with ice. In a large sauté pan, heat oil and sauté lardons until golden and a little crispy. Remove from pan and set aside. Reduce heat to medium low and add onions, carrots and celery to pan, season with salt and pepper and sauté until tender. Add bell peppers and sauté for 1 to 2 minutes. Add garlic and immediately return heat to medium high. Deglaze pan with wine and 2 cups clam juice. Add thyme and clams. Cover pan with lid and continue to cook until clams begin to open, then remove clams to a warmed serving platter. Add cream to the pan and reduce by half. When beans are tender, drain off any liquid that remains and reserve it. Add beans to the pan and season with salt and pepper. Add parsley and lardons to cook for another 5 minutes. If beans are too watery, cook longer; if too dry, add some reserved liquid. Serve beans in flat soup plates with clams on top. Drizzle each serving with olive oil and serve.
TV
WATCH IT ON THESE NETWORKS
In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to see Feast TV on Sat., May 2 at 2pm; Sun., May 3 at 1:30pm; Mon., May 4 at 1pm; Sun., May 10 at 3:30pm; and Sat., May 23 at 11am. Feast TV will also air throughout the month on nineCREATE.
In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) on Sat., May 16 at 2:30pm.
Designed To Delight! When you want to celebrate, trust Schnucks Florist & Gifts! You’ll find spring bouquets, arrangements, corsages, balloons and gifts for everything from graduations to Mother’s Day. Or, have one of our talented designers, many of whom are FTD® certified, create an extra special design!
Stop by or call your neighborhood Schnucks Florist Shop. Or, shop our entire collection at
schnucksfloral.com You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) on Thu., May 28 at 8:30pm and on Sun., May 31 at 6:30pm.
Feast TV will air in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) at 10am on Sat., May 2.
In May, we focus on innovation and in this episode, you’ll meet one of the world’s most famous and groundbreaking chefs: Ferran Adrià. Adrià’s art exhibition, Notes on Creativity, is on view at The NelsonAtkins Museum of Art through August and producer Cat Neville sits down with the chef to discuss his creative process and how art and food intersect. Collaboration is the creative spark behind the opening of St. Louis-based Strange Donuts and Seoul Taco’s shared space in Columbia, Missouri. We talk with the innovators behind this delicious mash-up. At Vox Vineyards near Kansas City, innovation is cultivated from ground to glass. We talk with founder Jerry Eisterhold, who grows only American Heritage Grapes and currently works with 40 varieties of these unusual and rare vines. Finally, Feast TV pays a visit to Leaky Roof Meadery, the first dedicated meadery in Missouri. Mead is trending nationally and we will get behind the scenes to find out how this honey-based beverage is made. Feast TV is presented by Missouri Wines with additional support from Whole Foods Market. ©2015 Schnucks
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAy 2015
53
sweet ideas
Strawberry-Norton Jam Canning and preserving may seem like a daunting task, but making strawberry preserves is so simple that anyone can do it, and it’s a great way to enjoy fruit all through the season. Jams and jellies set through a process of cooking fruit to break down the cell walls to release naturally occurring pectin; adding sugar and acid help create the gel. Make sure to choose fresh strawberries that aren’t overly ripe, as that will yield the best flavor and a thicker jam by using the pectin
in the strawberries and the freshly squeezed lemon juice. Although you will need to process the jar of jam in order to leave it at room temperature, I just pour the jam into a canning jar or two and stick it in the refrigerator. This way, it will keep for weeks – if you can resist not eating it all right away, of course. Regionally produced Norton wine gives this strawberry jam a dark, rich flavor and color unlike most anything you’ll find on store shelves.
Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. Learn more at pintsizebakery.com.
story and recipe by Christy Augustin Photography by Cheryl Waller
Strawberry-Norton Jam Not enough jam for your taste? You could easily double, triple or quadruple the recipe with great results. For the wine in this recipe, I used a bottle of St. James Winery’s Estate Norton, made in St. James, Missouri, though any Norton wine should work nicely. Bottled lemon juice cannot be substituted for freshly squeezed, as it doesn’t contain the natural pectin needed to allow the jam to set. Yields | 1 quart
|
6 cups fresh strawberries, tops removed, roughly chopped 1½ cups Norton wine 3 cups granulated sugar ½ tsp kosher salt juice of 2 lemons 1 Tbsp unsalted butter (optional)
| Preparation | In a nonreactive container, combine chopped strawberries, wine, sugar and salt and refrigerate overnight. The next day, transfer mixture to the bowl of a standard blender to purée. (It’s OK to leave mixture a bit chunky, but it’s important to break down most of the strawberries into pulp.) Add freshly squeezed lemon juice. Transfer mixture into a heavybottomed, 4-quart pot over mediumhigh heat and cook uncovered, stirring frequently. To avoid skimming off the foam, toss butter into the pot as the foam forms, and it will dissipate. Take care while cooking, as jam will spit and spatter as it cooks; use an oil spatter screen to protect yourself. The jam should reach the gelling point in 25 to 30 minutes. Test jam thickness by placing a spoonful onto a cold plate. Avoid cooking any longer than 30 minutes to preserve the ideal color and flavor.
THE BRUNCH THAT EATS OTHER BRUNCHES FOR BREAKFAST. Celebrate Mother's Day at 400 Olive Restaurant in downtown St. Louis on Sunday May 10th with a decadent brunch. Brunch offerings will include: eggs bennie, shrimp & grits, meat carving station, waffle & omelet stations, desserts, bloody mary's and mimosas. Brunch offered from 11:30am-3:00pm. Reservations recommended. Visit OpenTable.com for reservations or call 314-554-7098.
Available at:
400 Olive St. | Saint Louis | MO 63102 | USA ©2014 Hilton Worldwide
St. Louis’ Oldest Subaru Dealer Since 1972
Webster Groves subaru
New 2015
New 2015
Impreza 2.0i
Forester 2.5i
Subaru
1.49%APR Available
Subaru
Model FJB-01
From
$19,093*
1.49%APR Available
From
Model FFB-01
$22,754*
*Special financing available to qualified buyers with approved credit. Must finance through SMFC. See dealer for details.
If you’re thinking Subaru think
WEBSTER GROVES
Big Bend @ Murdoch • 314.968.5167 • www.wgsis.coM
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
55
WHERE HISTORY COMES TO LIFE! 5TH sTreeT BisTro Enjoy exclusive wines, artfully prepared comfort food and craft cocktails in the famed Mauntel’s market building. Hours are Monday through Wednesday 11 am to 10 pm and Thursday through Friday from 11 am to 11pm. 323 West 5th Street, Washington, MO 63090, (636) 283-5266, 5thstreet bistro.net
CoWaN’s resTauraNT
GoTTFried’s CaBiN
Washington’s oldest restaurant since the 1920’s is “The Place to Meet” for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner and it’s all made fresh to-order all day and of course, famous from-scratch fruit and mile-high pies. The youngest of generations have installed WIFI, but Cowan’s is pleased the “times gone by” are still happening here. Enjoy.
As the oldest standing structure in Washington, for 180 years, Gottfried’s Cabin has watched the town of Washington transform around it. And much like the changing town around it, the cabin has always been reinvented. While the structure has remained mostly the same since 1834, its purpose and function has not. Now it is a relaxing retreat for visitors to Washington. Check online for rental availability.
114 Elm Street, Downtown Washington, MO 636-239-3213, www.cowansrestaurant.com
auGusTa WiNery
124 Jefferson Street, Washington, MO ,
Augusta Winery is located just 20 minutes from downtown Washington MO. Our award-winning wines may be enjoyed year-round from the tasting room or at our Wine & Beer Garden May-October with free, live music on the weekends.
636-239-1743, info@gottfriedscabin.com www.gottfriedscabin.com
Todd GeiserT Farms
5601 High St, Augusta, MO 63332, (636) 228-4301,www.augustawinery.com
THe BLue duCk Located on the Washington riverfront, enjoy creative dining with a beautiful view of the Missouri River at The Blue Duck. Offering lunch with salads, soups, and sandwiches, a seasonally changing dinner menu, house made desserts, and a bar focusing on local breweries, wineries, and distilleries. 516 W Front St, Washington, MO 63090, (636) 390-9131 blueduckwashmo.com
Naturally Raised Pork, Produce in Season & More! Since 1916, hogs have been naturally raised on the Geisert Farm. Our fresh produce in season is available at the Farm Stand 7 days a week/365 from sunup to sundown. Doing’ it the natural way! 4851 Old Hwy 100 Washington, Missouri 63090 (on Old Hwy 100, 1 mile East of Fifth Street) 314-791-6942 , www.toadspigs.com
sToNe HiLL WiNery Stone Hill’s award-winning winemaking team produces wines that are receiving international acclaim, winning more than 4,000 awards since 1993, including eight Missouri Governor’s Cups --continuously ranking Stone Hill among the nation’s top award winners. Open year-round with free live music on the hill from May through October. 1110 Stone Hill Highway Hermann, MO 65041 (573) 486-2221 stonehillwinery.com
event calendar ≥ art Fair and Winefest Friday, Saturday & Sunday May 15 – 17 Each year, artists line the streets of downtown Washington, with Missouri wines brought for tasting and selling from 14 area wineries. View and purchase beautiful artwork, drink delicious wine, enjoy the live entertainment, and sample from the full food court. Additional activities include Sip and Savor Sunday, sponsored by Feast Magazine, where Missouri wineries team up with local restaurants to showcase food and wine pairings. Hours are Saturday 10 am – 10 pm, and Sunday 10 am – 4pm. The Art Fair will take place on Saturday from 10 am – 8pm and Sunday 10 am – 4pm.
56
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
≥ Chili Cook-off Friday, September 25 Teams will be competing for the prizes of best chili and best booth. The booths will be decorated to fit the theme of board games. Come sample the chili and vote for your favorite. 5 – 8 pm.
≥ Fall Festival of the arts & Crafts Saturday & Sunday, September 26 - 27 Each year, artists and crafters liven the streets of downtown Washington, selling their goods. Enjoy live entertainment, a full food court and Budweiser and Pepsi products. Hours are Saturday 10 am – 6pm and Sunday 10 am – 4pm.
≥ Black Friday and small Business saturday Friday & Saturday, November 27 & 28
≥ olde-Fashioned Christmas Sunday, November 29
Washington begins over a month’s worth of activities with the Black Friday and Small Business Saturday in downtown. The local shops open their doors early and offer some of the best deals of the year.
Don’t miss this holiday celebration at the Farmers’ Market with Santa and Mrs. Claus. Enjoy the music, face painting, marshmallow roasting, hot cider, mulled wine, carriage rides, hayrides, hot chocolate cookie decorating and crafts. Festivities are 3 to 5 pm.
≥ Holiday Parade of Lights
≥ Holiday House Tour
Friday, November 27 Over 45 floats drive through the streets of downtown Washington in this holiday themed parade. The parade includes appearances from Louie the Lightening Bug and Mr. and Mrs. Claus. The parade begins at 6 pm.
Sunday, December 13 Join Downtown Washington as we continue the holiday tradition of touring homes beautifully decorated for the holidays.
www.downtownwashmo.org 636-239-1743
| 58 |
vox vineyards
| 63 |
the buzz about mead
| 69 |
creating a cross
| 76 |
paired up
| 84 |
uncorking a comeback
Go behind the scenes at Vox Vineyards, where native grapes are being cultivated to make truly innovative wines. Mead is increasing in popularity and production across the country – including at many regional wineries and meaderies. The science behind developing hybrid wine grapes that flourish in the Midwest. Chefs from restaurants at five regional wineries share recipes to pair with Midwest varietals in a five-course meal. Learn how a winemaker in Westphalia, Missouri, revived Missouri Riesling. phoToGRaphy of GRapes aT Vox VineyaRds (p. 58) CouRTesy Vox VineyaRds
Vox Vineya rds is redisc oVeri ng ameri ca’s natiVe grape s Written by Jonathan bender PhotograPhy courtesy vox vineyards
Terra vox
grape guide Learn about 10 of the American heritage grapes grown at Vox Vineyards and bottled under the Terra Vox label.
AlbAniA. The most sophisticated of the Munson whites, Albania yields dry white wine with citrus and pineapple aromas and a full-bodied structure. Food pairing recommendations include rich dishes like creamed chicken and grilled trout. AMerbonTe. Amerbonte berries are tiny, as are the clusters they grow in, which keeps production on the small side. The resulting wine is similar to Cabernet Sauvignon, with blueberry notes. AMeriCA. A lincecumii-rupestris
hybrid, Thomas Volney Munson described the grapes as follows: “When fully ripe [they are] very rich in sugar, also rich in agreeable acid; possesses a very distinct peculiar flavor, much liked by some, not ‘foxy,’ making a good combination market and wine grape. Juice intensely violet red. A very good Port wine has been made from it without ‘fortifying.’”
ATokA. Grapes ripen suddenly and
Jerry eisterhold is getting ready to show the world his garden. While there are a few raised beds outside the enclosed porch of his home near Kansas city, that’s not why he’s sitting around a hand-hewn wooden table with a graphic design group, a pair of wine consultants from california, the single staffer and three volunteer helpers.
CloeTA. Jet-black in color, Cloeta has great tolerance to heat and drought. Grapes ripen early to produce rich red wine with soft tannins and an aroma of plum, chocolate and coffee. ellen SCoTT. Munson named
this grape after his wife. A lincecumiilabrusca-vinifera hybrid, Munson described ellen Scott wine as, “unexcelled as a dessert variety, even among foreign kinds.”
lenoir. Also known as black Spanish,
“raisin” quickly, which creates a very narrow window for harvesting. Atoka is a hybrid made with a slew of grapes (lincecumii, rupestris, bourquiniana, labrusca, Vitis vinifera) and has a cinnamon nose at harvest.
lenoir produces full-boded red wine with a rich, brambly flavor and bright acidity.
beACon. A lincecumii-labrusca
Wine kinG. Violet in color, Wine
hybrid, beacon has flavors of apricot, peach, hibiscus, rose and rose hips.
WeTuMPkA. With Vitis labrusca
parentage, Wetumpka has grapey aromas and high acidity.
king is an Aestivalis-lincecumii-rupestris hybrid with notes of chocolate and figs.
to see that, you have to look a little farther, out the floor-to-ceiling windows in the new tasting room and event space, to the orderly rows of posts and twisting vines that glint in the brisk March sunshine at vox vineyards. the real garden – the one he’s been cultivating for 19 years – sits on 6 acres and is filled with three dozen grape varieties grown from native american species – ones you’ve likely never even heard of, let alone sipped. amid rolling hills, eisterhold is hoping to bottle american exceptionalism, and he’s labeling it terra vox. “nobody knows the exact number,” eisterhold says of the grapes that dot his 88-acre property. “We have types that have different names, but they sure look the same to me. at some point, we’re going to have to make it official and just say, ‘i deem this a variety.’
BRILLIANT
AWARD-WINNING WINES
•
SpA • VIllAS • GRApEVINE GRIll
Visit us for an extraordinary wine destination experience, inspired by Missouri’s finest wine portfolio.
Chaumette.com
Ste. Genevieve, MO
tAStING ROOM • pOOl • ChApEl • EVENt fACIlItIES
In 1996, he planted 2 acres of plants – the rows just wide enough for a tractor to mow the grass in between. Many of the cuttings and the inspiration for growing grapes came from viticulturists George Husmann, who worked in Hermann, Missouri, and Thomas Volney Munson, who was primarily based in Texas. Husmann and Munson were prolific catalogers and advocates for the American grape in the 19th and 20th centuries. Munson experimented with crossbreeding and worked on hundreds of cultivars in Denison, Texas. In fact, his work was so highly regarded that the French government awarded him a national award of merit for providing French growers with a grape phylloxeraresistant rootstock.
including the National Civil Rights Museum, Jurassic Park Discovery Center and the Harry S. Truman Presidential Library and Museum. His current projects include the National Museum of the U.S. Army near Washington, D.C., and the expansion of the National Museum of the Marine Corps in Virginia.
Thank you
“The postmodern view is that there are different points of view,” Eisterhold says. “It depends on where you are and when you are; the stories are specific to a time and place. Museums all have a story to tell from multiple points of view, and that’s also true for these grapes.” The ability to tell Munson’s story through physical plantings and winemaking intrigued Eisterhold. He had enough grapes to produce his first bottle in 2000, and four years later he added another 4 acres.
“The first thing that comes to mind is the qwerty keyboard,” Eisterhold says. “It’s inefficient now, but all keyboards use it because it’s a standard, and any other keyboard would be strange. As with Vitis vinifera wines, and to a lesser extent French hybrids, because they dominate the market, any market-oriented new For Eisterhold, following Munson’s vineyard would plant one of those pursuit of sturdy plants that could produce exemplary wines was initially an standards. Here, we grew grapes for avocation, not a vocation. That’s because [nearly] 20 years and didn’t sell a bottle. So we didn’t pollute the experiment with his business, Eisterhold Associates Inc. economics. All this genetic material has (EAI) – an exhibit design and planning never had its day in the sun. It almost firm – leads him to travel from India had to be something done outside the to Canada in a single week. EAI has business realm.” designed exhibits for national spaces “Our philosophical approach comes from Munson,” Eisterhold says. “It wasn’t enough to have an idea. You have to follow it through to its logical conclusion. You still have to get your hands dirty and do the work.”
Chef crafted, Palate inspired.
1862 S 10th Street, St. Louis, MO 63104 • (314) 899-9707 www.springcentergourmet.com
for an
incredible event! •Augusta Winery
•Balducci's Restaurant
•Balducci Winery
•Cleveland-Heath
•Blumenhof Vineyards and Winery •Cool Cow Cheese •Cave Vineyards
•Haveli Indian Restaurant
•Chaumette Winery
•Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria
•Edg-Clif Farms and Vineyard
•G&W Sausage Co.
•Montelle Winery
•Oceano Bistro
•Noboleis Vineyards and Winery
•The Silly Goose
•Robller Vineyard & Winery
•Joyce Factory Direct
•Stone Hill Winery
•Govero Salons
•Sugar Creek Winery •Vox Vineyards •The Chaumette Winery Grapevine Grill
n see ex t yo ye u a r!
Other bunches of cuttings have yielded three different kinds of vines; I have to determine which is which. Here, I’m like Adam; I hold dominion.”
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAy 2015
59
Mayhem in Mayberry Welcome to the annual “Miss Mayberry” contest. YOU decide who will walk away with the crown as the contestants are chosen from the audience. They will be judged on beauty, poise, cookin’ skills and a new category this year - hog callin.’ Join Sheriff Andy, Deputy Blarney and Aint Bee for a night of merriment and murder in this interactive comedy mystery served with a 4-course meal to DIE for! Call for reservations today at 314-533-9830 Bring this in for $10 off per person Coupon valid through May 2015. Not valid for groups.
4426 Randall Place • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • bissellmansion.com
Free Lava Cake for Mom on Mother’s Day (reservations are encouraged for both lunch and dinner) Earn a $10 gift card with your next Take-Out order (call for details). Come in and try King & I’s new desserts featuring our very own signature Thai Iced Tea and Thai Iced Coffee. Jitter-Mud Thai Iced Coffee, Vanilla Ice cream, Coffee Crystals and Chocolate sauce Thai-Scream Thai Iced Tea, Vanilla Ice cream and Chocolate sauce
3155 South Grand • St. Louis • 314.771.1777 • kingandistl.com
Free Live Music Every Weekend! Open Daily. Monday – Thursday: 10:30 – 5:30 Friday: 10:30 – 7:00 Saturday: 10:30 – 5:30 Sunday: Noon – 5:30 Reserve your table in advance via phone. Happy Hour wine and appetizer specials every Friday from 4-6PM
Hwy 94 • Dutzow • 800.419.2245 • blumenhof.com 60
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
AMERICA
VALHALLAH
Eisterhold knows there are more than 40 varieties of grapes in his vineyard, but in order to translate that diversity into a cohesive winery, he brought on Clark Smith, author of Postmodern Winemaking, as a consultant. Smith works with independent wineries on everything from what grapes to plant to setting up labs to developing new brands. “Being in America today is like being in Paris 300 years ago, trying to convince your friends that the guys over in Burgundy were doing really interesting things with Pinot Noir,” Smith says. “But [at Vox] we have this incredible series of undiscovered wines.” The two began working together in earnest in August 2012, when Vox Vineyards applied for government approval of its wine bottle labels. Last year, Vox purchased an automatic corking machine and set up a storage room with American oak barrels from World Cooperage.
species helps to keep away other birds and insects). A door from Eisterhold’s office is connected to a stairway that ends on the vineyard’s crush pad. The winery is visually and functionally integrated into the space with a lab, processing center, and wine storage and cellar room on the floor below the event space and tasting room.
Texas, is a full-bodied red that is woodsy and brambly.
“It took almost 20 years to fill in the rows,” Eisterhold says. “And there were a surprising number of little decisions every step of the way. But I’ve always had my release in pruning a grapevine because once you prune it, it stays pruned.”
Cloeta also remains a favorite, although both Eisterhold and Smith freely admit that the wine is still very much in development. The jet-black grape – Smith likens it to a “hyper Zinfandel” – can withstand drought and high temperatures and ripens early. The grape produces rich wine with notes of plum, chocolate and coffee.
The first of the grapes to show true promise was Albania. It’s what Smith terms, “the most sophisticated of the Munson whites.” The nose is full of citrus and pineapple, and it’s got a deep, full body that translates into a dry white wine, which would be right at home alongside grilled trout.
“We’re still doing what we set out to do,” Eisterhold says. “Now we just have a facility where we can make real wine.”
“I’d never heard of Albania when I got here, and that doesn’t happen often,” Smith says. “We’ve left the Albania alone because it would be a shame to change something that people don’t know.”
A chorus of guinea hens often greets visitors at the top of the driveway on the 88 acres that Eisterhold owns with his wife, Kate Garland – a senior conservator at the The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art in Kansas City. The hens mill about in the courtyard between a trio of buildings – the office for the design business; the couple’s home; and the new tasting room, winery and event space for Vox Vineyards.
A few varieties of grape will be familiar to fans of regional wine. There will be Norton, Vignoles and Traminette – a Gewürztraminer hybrid that can be sweet, semidry or dry. Although they won’t make many sweet wines, Vox will use the natural grapey aroma and high acidity of Wetumpka grapes in a sweet offering.
Their home sits at the top of the hill overlooking the acres of vines, where houses for wrens dot the posts (the bird
WETUMPKA
Eisterhold himself is partial to reds, and the work of Munson and Husmann lent plenty of possibilities for Vox. Lenoir, commonly known as Black Spanish in
varieties,” Eisterhold says. “I’d like to cut down to about half in a few years based on what will make an interesting grape and still be true to its type.”
“Lenoir is a remarkable, strong wine; it’s not like anything you see in the stores,” Eisterhold says. “It’s got cedar and an alpine character, and flavors that people haven’t put adjectives to.”
“Nobody else has Cloeta in the ground,” Smith says. “We don’t know how much is in the land and how much is Munson’s hand.” While the hallmark of Munson’s work is that it went in many directions, hardiness was a trait he clearly prized. The fields are irrigated, but the team at Vox hasn’t had to turn on the irrigation system in the past two years, even during the drought of 2012. “The Munson varieties have a distinct character,” Smith says. “There’s a steely bitterness that he really seemed to like, and the tannins in his reds are all really soft. They’re rich wines that don’t beat you up.” This is the year Vox opens to the public. The plan is to host tastings and delve into selling online with explorer kits – a subscription service that embraces the diversity and limited quantity of the wine produced. “We’re trying to focus on a few
Ten wines debuted to the public this past Valentine’s Day when Eisterhold led a tasting that paired varietals like Lenoir and Cloeta with sheep’s milk cheeses from Green Dirt Farm in nearby Weston, Missouri. For Eisterhold, this is the next step in evaluating the grapes that grow in his vineyard. It’s akin to opening the doors at a newly finished museum and seeing how the public interacts with an exhibit he’s built. “At some point, Walt [Disney] learned that there’s only so much you can do by yourself,” says Eisterhold, who worked on the famous animator’s boyhood hometown train depot as part of the Walt Disney Hometown Museum in Marceline, Missouri. “The palette he had to work with was other people.” And it’s other people who will, in some ways, determine the future of Vox Vineyards. Eisterhold wants feedback from the public, but there’s one voice in particular that he hopes to hear in the next few decades. “It’s not just the idea; it’s about seeing the idea through to completion,” Eisterhold says. “And it’s a dialogue with nature. You have an idea and theories, but sometimes nature doesn’t have the same idea.” Vox Vineyards, 19310 NW Farley Hampton Road #3, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.425.3219, voxvineyards.com
BEACON
Learn more about the native grapes growing at Vox Vineyards in the May episode of Feast TV.
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
61
A new definition of luxury awaits you on your visit to this secret hideaway on a beautiful stretch of Flamingos Beach in Riviera Nayarit. Enjoy the highest level of personalized service and take in the amazing views from your deluxe ocean-view balcony. Take part in a completely unique dining experience, as the resort’s Executive Chef guides you through the preparation of a gourmet dinner. Practice specialized techniques and celebrate by dining on your creation at La Casona Restaurant, complete with a customized wine pairing. After the three hour class and dining experience, you’ll receive a diploma and Chef Jacket embroidered with your name.*
���� � ���� � ����� ��� � ��� � ���� � � ���� � ��� �� ���� � � ���� ���� ����� ����� ���� � �������� �� ����� ������������������ � ������������
YOUR SOURCE FOR THE FINEST
• Maine Lobsters • Jumbo Lump Crabmeat • Dry-Packed Scallops • Jumbo Shrimp • Smoked Salmon • Wide Selection of Oysters & Fish Apple Vacations, the World’s #1 Vacation Company to Mexico, makes getting to this resort paradise easy and affordable with non-stop vacation flights to Puerto Vallarta from St. Louis. Airport/hotel transfers are always included.
314.993.4844
8660 OLIVE IN U CITY
FRESHEST SEAFOOD IN ST. LOUIS SINCE 1978! bobsseafoodstl.com
BISTRO & MUSIC HOUSE SIGNATURE STYLE ‘NEW’ NEW ORLEANS CUISINE
*Cooking classes are not included in the all-inclusive or gourmet privileges packages. AD7667 4/15
62
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
512 North Euclid Central West End — 314.367.3644 — evangelinesSTL.com
ver 75 Years ting O a r b e ss Cel in Busine Over 300 Craft Beers Large Wine Shop Huge Whiskey, Bourbon & Scotch Selection
Dean’s Liquor 210 West Main St. | Collinsville, IL 618-344-4930 | deansliquor.com
WRITTen By VALeRIA TuRTuRRO KLAMM
| PHOTOGRAPHy By JOnATHAn GAyMAn
The world’s oldest fermented beverage is experiencing something of a renaissance in Missouri. Mead, an alcoholic beverage made by fermenting honey and water – usually with yeast – dates back to 7000 B.C. Legend has it that mead is even responsible for the term honeymoon: In ancient times, a newlywed couple was given enough mead to continue toasting for one month, or one moon cycle, following the wedding to ensure offspring. In the past few years, the time-honored elixir has been garnering national awards and recognition in Missouri as a number of wineries have begun producing high -quality incarnations. Danene Beedle, marketing director for the Missouri Wine and Grape Board, believes the increasing interest in mead is a reflection of the
overall growth in the craft beverage and wine industry.
meads to those from other parts of the country.
“Consumers are interested in various types of wine,” Beedle says. “Some wineries are producing mead as a way to meet that demand. It’s an exciting time in the wine industry.”
“The interest in mead continues to grow as more mead becomes available,” Martin says. “We particularly see the increase in the 21 to 35 age group. They want something sweet, but not syrup.”
Turf Martin, owner of retail shop Wine & More in Sedalia, Missouri, has seen this increased interest, as well. His store carries Missouri-made mead by Windy Wine Co. in Osborn, Pirtle Winery in Weston and 7C’s Winery in Walnut Grove. He recently added various styles of mead from Leaky Roof Meadery in Buffalo, Missouri, and Martin Brothers Winery in Hermann, Missouri, to the repertoire. Martin says his customers prefer Missouri
When Leaky Roof Meadery opened in January 2014, it became the first dedicated meadery in the state. Initially, a group of investors were interested in opening a modern meadery in the area and approached Todd J. Rock, an experienced mead-maker who was working at Mother’s Brewing Co. in Springfield, Missouri. Rock got started home-brewing beer and mead in 2004 and later refined his craft at a meadery in Anchorage, Alaska. For several
years he has been a judge at the Mazer Cup International Mead Competition in Colorado, the largest commercial mead competition in the country. Due to personal and financial issues, the initial investors backed out of the project, but Rock and his partners, Andrew Steiger and Jhett Collins, had come too far, so they sought their own funding. Leaky Roof was the nickname for the Kansas City, Clinton and Springfield Railroad (KCC&S), which ran out of Springfield, Missouri, and through to Kansas City from about 1884 to 1934. Rock, head mead-maker, says local history plays a big factor in many aspects of the meadery, including variety names like KCC&S Cyser, Spooklight, Bond Burner and High, Dry and Dusty.
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
63
THiNK StONE
Are you are remodeling your kitchen, or building a new home from scratch? Stone is simultaneously contemporary, classic, upscale, and inviting. No material makes a bolder statement than stone. With thin veneers, you can put stone anywhere. Scan the code for inspiration.
Columbia
|
Jefferson City
|
St. Louis
|
www.midwestblock.com
Kansas City
ENJOY TASTY LOCAL FARE AT FEAST MAGAZINE’S RESTAURANT ROW, BROUGHT TO YOU BY THESE EXCEPTIONAL CULINARY ARTISTS:
The Webster Arts Fair
June 5
6p 10p
6
11a 10p
7
noon 5p
2015
Webster Groves @ Lockwood & Bompart facebook.com/artandair twitter.com/artandair
Completely Sauced Bombay Food Junkies Milagros Russo's Tivinov Catering Straubs Serendipity
Original Artwork by Sergey Cherep
webster-arts.org
Official Culinary Partner of Art&Air
DIY Beer and Wine Kits We offer beer and wine kits and supplies, cheese kits,sausage & jerky supplies, Full line of distilling supplies and equipment! One wine kit makes up to 30 bottles of wine. Gift Certificates Available. We will also ship your supplies! Makes a Great Gift! Also available Gourmet Coffees, Coffee Roasters and Grinders
10% OFF Purchase OVer $10 If ordering online use code: FEAST in the coupon section of the shopping cart. WE MOVED! 1 Mile South of Old Location.
It’s Worth the Drive!
10663 Business 21 (by Subway) • Hillsboro • 636.797.8155 • brewandwinesupply.com
MOTHER© S DAY BRUNCH AND DINNER!! Sunday Brunch & Dinner: Enjoy an amazing breakfast menu with our delicious boozy breakfast cocktails & Chef Mehmet© s Whole Roasted Lamb. Lunch: Tues-Fri - Dinner: Tues-Sun - Sunday Brunch Happy Hour: Tues-Fri Available for private parties and catering. Turkish Mediterranean Cuisine. Known for our Meze (small plates), Lamb Dishes, Fresh Fish and Excellent Wine Selection.
6671 Chippewa Street • St. Louis • 314.645.9919 • ayasofiacuisine.com 64
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
Despite its connections to the past, Leaky Roof has been introducing a newer, lighter style of mead. Many consumers characterize mead, nicknamed honey wine, as a high-alcohol, sugary sweet beverage that takes a long time to ferment. In reality, mead can be dry, semisweet or sweet, and carbonated, still or sparkling. Leaky Roof produces carbonated, low -alcohol meads (6.5 percent) that take less than a month to ferment and then package in cans and kegs rather than bottles. The resulting beverage has “a simpler, more accessible flavor profile,” Rock says. Beyond the range of sweetness and carbonation, there are also more than two dozen styles of mead depending on the other ingredients blended with the honey and water. A common style is melomel, which is made from fruit additions. Certain melomels may also be known by other more specific names: A cyser is made by fermenting honey with apple cider, a pyment is made with honey and grapes, and a morat is made with honey and mulberries. Other than fruit, mead can also have spices like clove and cinnamon added, creating a metheglin. Leaky Roof makes three flagships – Berry Picker, semisweet mead made with berries; High, Dry and Dusty, dry mead made with ginger; and sweet honey mead called Gandy Dancer – as well as seasonal varieties. In Missouri, most mead-makers stick to labeling all of their products simply as mead, as opposed to cyser or melomel, in an attempt to keep the beverage as approachable as possible. But that doesn’t mean there is any shortage of creative flavors. At Leaky Roof, other varieties include Dog House, made with sour cherry hard cider, and Spooklight, made with spiced pumpkin and wildflower honey.
winery also makes After Burn and Hades Ambrosia meads infused with jalapeño and habanero peppers, respectively. 7C’s earned bronze, silver and gold medals for six of their varieties at the 2014 Missouri Wine Competition. On the western side of the state in Weston, Scott Pirtle is continuing the mead legacy his father began more than three decades ago. Pirtle Winery has been continuously producing mead since 1978 and is the official featured mead at the Kansas City Renaissance Festival held every fall. “Whenever the Renaissance festival comes to town, we see a great spike in our sales,” Pirtle says. The winery has been producing its traditional Pirtle label mead since day one and has rounded out its varieties with two fruit meads – raspberry and blackberry – plus an effervescent variety. Those four meads make up 25 to 30 percent of sales for Pirtle Winery, which also produces more than 20 wines. “People are really starting to get into the old tradition of mead,” Pirtle says. The meads are produced in 1,000-gallon tanks with California or Florida orange blossom honey and then aged for eight to nine months before filtering and bottling. Each variety has earned multiple medals, including gold at the 2013 Mazer Cup International Mead Competition for the raspberry variety. The raspberry and blackberry varieties won gold at the 2014 Governor’s Cup.
At 7C’s Winery, which is located about 30 minutes northwest of Springfield, husband and wife Dwight and Jean Anne Crevelt produce more than a dozen wines and 10 to 12 varieties of mead. When the Crevelts opened the winery in 2009, they produced just three meads, one made from basswood honey, one from clover honey and one from wildflower honey. The Crevelts now use a range of honey varietals to make mead, including orange blossom, red poplar, buckwheat and alfalfa. They dilute the honey, which comes in at 88 percent Brix – a scale for measuring the concentration of sugar in liquid – to the normal sugar level of grape juice, which is about 24 percent, before fermenting it and aging the mead. The beverage ages for six months to a year or more, depending on the honey varietal. If not aged long enough, the mead retains a rough finish, according to Dwight. For fruit meads, the Crevelts ferment cherry, raspberry, plum, blackberry or pumpkin with honey. The
Meet the meadmakers at Leaky Roof Meadery in Buffalo, Missouri, in the May episode of Feast TV.
According to the American Mead Makers Association, there are more than 230 commercial meaderies or wineries producing mead in the U.S. Currently there are only a handful of mead-producers in Missouri, but they are seeing huge interest from consumers. At 7C’s, Dwight thought mead would make up just 10 percent of the production for the winery, but today it is 50 percent or more of their business. “We can’t make it fast enough,” he says. To meet the demand, the winery began offering all of its meads and some of its wine varietals in recyclable pouches last year, perfect for float trips, camping and picnics. Products can be purchased at the winery’s tasting room, online or by phone. This fall, Dwight says the winery will release several new mead varieties including one infused with ghost peppers called After Life and another infused with 66
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
Carolina Reaper peppers. At Martin Brothers Winery in Hermann, which exclusively produces mead, production has tripled in volume from 1,000 cases in late 2013 to 3,000 cases this year. “Since opening our tasting [room], we’ve educated people on what mead is because most of the people didn’t know anything about it,” says Esther Martin, owner and president of Martin Brothers Winery. “They were amazed at the flavors that were presented and the overall texture of the [mead] going down smoothly.” After several years of developing and marketing its mead, Martin Brothers opened a tasting room in 2014. Esther runs the winery with three of her four sons: Jonathan, the winemaker; Patrick, the scientist and winemaker; and Derek, who handles marketing and sales. What began as a hobby for a few of the brothers years
ago led to a submission in an amateur wine competition in 2010. After winning gold, the Martins realized they had a special product on their hands and continued to conduct product development. Shortly after Patrick graduated from Missouri University of Science and Technology with a degree in biology and chemistry, he tweaked and perfected formulas with Jonathan. “Our cornerstone is the science of the honey,” says Dan Martin, Esther’s husband and self-described consultant for the winery. Case in point: Patrick sends the honey to out to be tested for a full chemical analysis so he can balance the winery’s proprietary mead formula based on the flavors he’s seeking. Martin Brothers produces a traditional sweet mead, a traditional dry mead and several melomel varieties, all of which are nonsparkling and 14 percent ABV.
In 2013, Martin Brothers entered and placed in three international wine competitions, and in 2014, the winery won two gold medals at the Beverage Testing Institute’s World Honey Wine Challenge for their traditional sweet mead and prickly pearwatermelon mead. Martin Brothers’ traditional sweet mead has been compared to icewine and Vignoles, while its traditional dry mead has been compared to Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay. The winery also produces mead in banana and blueberry flavors. In March, the winery bottled meads made with honey from orange blossoms and lucerne blossoms as well as a strawberry -banana mead and a pyment made with Norton grapes. “We feel that wine produced by grapes is very well covered in Missouri,” Dan says. “We’re not in the business to compete with them. This is an addition to the wine industry.”
5 beers - 4 courses $60 ticket Limited amount of seating. Tickets on sale on April 23rd on Brown Paper Ticket 7C's Winery 502 E. 560th Road, Walnut Grove, Missouri, 417.788.2263, 7cswinery.com Leaky roof Meadery 1306 S. Azalea St., Buffalo, Missouri, 417.345.1233, leakyroofmeadery.com Martin brothers Winery 1623 Old Iron Road, Hermann, Missouri, 573.486.0236, martinbrotherswinery.com PirtLe Winery 502 Spring St., Weston, Missouri, 816.640.5728, pirtlewinery.com Wine & More 3200 S. Limit Ave., Sedalia, Missouri, 660.826.9463, mywineandmore.com
800 E Broadway
Columbia, MO 65201 Inspired Local Food Culture
MAy 2015
67
B O T T L E CELLARS
Every Bottle Tells a Story
WINE
WHISKEY
TM
BEER
CHEESE
6039 Telegraph Road Oakville, MO. www.bottlecellars.com
CHOCOLATE
63129
314.846.5100
Follow us on Facebook
Enjoy a Day in the Counrty •Beautiful spacious grounds with room for parties of all sizes, buses welcome •Plenty of covered seating to enjoy live music and wine tastings in all kinds of weather •Award Winning Wines, Award Winning Food, and select beer •Enjoy friendly competition on our Bocce Ball courts •Readers Choice Winner for 9 years in the Washington Missourian •Weddings, Rehearsal Dinners, and Private Events
Balducci Vineyards 636-482-VINO (8466) 6601 Highway 94 South Augusta, Missouri 63332
www.balduccivineyards.com
68
feastmagazine.com
MAy 2015
A
mericans have been trying to grow European wine grapes longer than there has been an America. Thomas Jefferson, who famously thought horticulture was a competitive sport, long tried (and failed) to get a bottle of wine out of his vineyards on the slopes of his little mountain in Virginia. WrITTEN by SEáN CollINS
What Jefferson eventually learned at Monticello – and what every viticulturist on these shores now knows – is that Vitis vinifera gets a little fussy when you bring it to North America. This species of grape is native to Europe and parts of Asia and thrives around the Mediterranean. It prefers a little elevation and a south-facing slope. It’s perfectly fine with rugged soil. Heck, it’s perfectly fine with rocks and gravel so long as it gets a cool night and a warm, dry daytime with maybe just a hint of moisture floating in the morning air.
PHoTogrAPHy by grEgg goldMAN
Dr. Shelby Henning at the St. Charles Horticultural Research Center in St. Charles, Illinois.
In other words, any place but Illinois.
Paul Hahn used to grow corn and beans. He knows the wonders that the dark soil of central Illinois can produce. But when commodity prices began to keep Illinois farmers up at night, some 17 years ago, Hahn planted grapes: three reds (Baco Noir, Maréchal Foch and Frontenac) and three whites (Niagara, Seyval Blanc and Vignoles). “I started with just six rows back here,” he says, motioning to a slope at Mackinaw Valley Vineyard, 15 acres of grapevines planted halfway between Bloomington and Peoria. Back in March, when we met, Hahn’s vineyard was still dormant – but that doesn’t mean the vineyard owner can rest. “Every year it kept growing and growing; more grapes, more grapes, more grapes; learning as I went along,” he says. And learn he did. At the 2003 Illinois State Fair Wine Competition, his 2002 Alexander’s Conquest – a dry red blend of 40 percent Maréchal Foch, 40 percent Frontenac and 20 percent Baco Noir – took the Best in Show ribbon in a field of more than 250 wines. “Being a farmer my whole life, it wasn’t hard for me to learn how to grow something else because it’s just another plant,” Hahn says.
But no one grows a new crop without learning as much as possible about the plant. Hahn says he discussed strategies with the grape specialists at the University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign, who were themselves testing different varieties of grapes for use around the state. “Bill Shoemaker of U of I was a person I looked to for information, and I attended his seminars about how the test-plot grapes were doing [at the university].”
don’t know what to do with it all. And the plants can grow exuberantly in the warm weather, producing lots of foliage which, paradoxically, creates shady spots where a fungus can thrive. Finally, there’s the threat of insect pests, like phylloxera, a nasty little root-sucker that can single-handedly wipe out a grape industry. We’ve seen it happen before – North American rootstock essentially saved the French wine industry in the mid-1800s.
up alongside of them: winemaking, tourism, fine dining, entertainment, hospitality. Yes, there’s romance in the grape, but there’s a business engine in there, too.
This task of creating varieties that will grow in the Midwest and produce world-class wines has not been easy, and horticulturists from New York state to Minnesota to Illinois have spent years trying to make it work. Here’s the problem: our winters and our summers and our rainfall and our fungus and our grape phylloxera.
For years, winemakers in Illinois have tried to solve those problems. As far back as the spring of 1874, The Prairie Farmer (“a weekly journal for the farm, orchard and fireside,” published in Chicago) ran an item headlined “Phylloxera and Grafting Grape Vines” asking Illinois growers to graft scions of European varietals onto North American rootstock in order “to ascertain the means of growing with more certainty the delicate varieties that now fail so frequently.”
If you can cross the delicate vines of Europe with one of the many hardy native vines that can withstand Midwest weather, you might just be on to something.
Let’s take those five points in order. The winters here are almost too damn cold for vinifera. The summers are almost too warm, but they’re certainly too humid. And we can get a lot of rain all at once. (Think: Midwest thunderstorms.) That leads us to the fourth point: Fungal disease poses a huge threat to vinifera. Our hot, humid summers promote too much fungal growth on the vines, and the poor things just
But grafting is a solution for phylloxera in the instant: a one-off, labor-intensive fix for this plant, in this vineyard, and it doesn’t bestow any benefit to the plant’s offspring. It’s not a solution for an industry. And everywhere in the world where wine grapes are grown, industries have grown
The approach that has worked better in the Midwest is to develop vinifera-native grape hybrid strains designed to carry on in their DNA some of the most useful characters of their parents and grandparents and all their grapey ancestors.
This is what Jefferson didn’t get right at Monticello. Had he cultivated native grapes instead of vinifera, he may have succeeded in making wine. In the early 19th century, Dr. Daniel Norton came upon seedlings of a native North American grape in Richmond, Virginia – not far from Monticello. His discovery would become the grape now known as Norton, which quickly gained popularity on the East Coast and in the Midwest for its disease resistance and hardiness. In 2003, Missouri named Norton its official state grape; today it’s the most widely grown wine grape in the state and one of the top five grown in Illinois.
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
69
For scientists interested in creating Midwest-hardy varieties, the task is to find wild grapes that like it in our region. Bill Shoemaker can find them growing in the alley behind his house in DeKalb, Illinois. It’s a weed, he says, growing everywhere in the state, as well as most other states in the Midwest. He’s talking about Vitis riparia, literally “riverbank grape.” According to Shoemaker: “Wild grapes can have weird, vegetative flavors. Some are bitter. They are almost always sour until fully ripened. But some wild grapes have flavors that aren’t all that offensive. I’ve had a couple of wines made from wild riparia that were made by good winemakers.” On the day we met, he found wild riparia climbing a volunteer tree next to a dumpster. (You can probably find it growing near you, too.) It’s a woody vine with those telltale curly tendrils that support it as it climbs trees, heads to the canopy where it leafs out, steals a little sunshine and produces small fruit the birds seem to adore. Riparia is ubiquitous in our region, thanks to red-winged blackbirds and the like that find the wild grapes at the tops of the trees, eat a few or a lot, then later disperse the seeds on terrain and windshields. Shoemaker, a fruit and vegetable horticulturist, is retired from the University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign, where he spent his career studying vegetables and fruit, with an eventual emphasis on grapes. He founded the St. Charles Horticultural Research Center, 100 acres in the far-western suburbs of Chicago, in that zone where subdivision meets silo at the intersection of two American eras. Today, Shoemaker sits on Victorian furniture in his home built in the 19th century. He pours a few glasses of a wine he’s made from grapes grown at the research center: a Valvin Muscat. “This grape that was developed at Cornell University by Bruce Reisch, and is a true Muscat-style grape, but it’s very hardy, and it’ll survive here just fine,” he says. And the wine Shoemaker has made is quite nice: aromatic and sweet, but not at all syrupy, with that floral nose that’s so characteristic of Muscat grapes. Muscats seem desperate to go on a date with a piece of Gorgonzola, and they often do. Valvin Muscat is a cross between Couderc 299-35, which is itself a hybrid, and Muscat Ottonel, a variety of vinifera first developed in 1852 by Jean Moreau-Robert, a French grower in the Loire valley. Today Muscat Ottonel is used to make dessert wines in eastern Europe: Austria, Romania, Croatia and Serbia, as well as dry whites in Hungary and Alsace, France. The cross that resulted in the grape used to make the wine that Shoemaker poured for us was made in 1962, but the paper describing Valvin Muscat wasn’t published 70
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
by Cornell University until 2006. According to Shoemaker: “That gives you a sense of how long it can take to develop a new grape variety. Most don’t take that long, more like 15 to 20 years, but still a long time.” Taking a long time is part of the process of hybridizing grapes. It can take years for a new cross to take root and bear fruit. And then it can take many more years to decide whether that fruit is worth the winemaking. And then it can take even more years – even in this age of genomic analysis – to find out if the new plant has inherited genes that will allow it to weather the conditions in places like Illinois and Missouri. But that’s what the scientists at Cornell and the University of Minnesota and their colleagues at the University of Illinois have been doing: crossing and then waiting. And then crossing again. In 1965, horticulturist Herb C. Barrett crossed Joannes Seyve 23.416 (itself a French-American hybrid) with the German varietal Gewürztraminer at the University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign. The result was Traminette, a white wine grape released in 1996 – long after Barrett’s retirement – by the New York State Agricultural Experiment Station in Geneva, New York. Today, Traminette remains the only cross developed in Illinois that is commercially grown throughout the country – though Shoemaker hopes that isn’t true for much longer. “I’m trying to change that, and perhaps others will be successful in introducing a new variety or two with Illinois roots,” Shoemaker says. “A new variety from Cornell, Arandell, has a strong connection with a wild vine developed by Herb Barrett, which came from Vitis cinerea, another wild grape from central Illinois, north of Springfield. It contributed amazing disease resistance which could give this variety potential for producing an organic wine – a tall order in the Midwest. It would still be difficult because of insect problems, but there is no other variety with so much natural disease resistance on the market.”
“The decision of whAT pArenTs To cross And which offspring To focus on involves so Much chAnce. You hAve To develop greAT dATA And use [iT] experTlY.”
Shoemaker describes the scientists who work with grapes as having to make decisions “creatively” when deciding which grapes to cross for new hybrids. “There is a lot of instinct involved,” he says. “I think grape-breeding is a lovely blend of science and art. The decision of what parents to cross and which offspring to focus on involves so much chance. You have to develop great data and use [it] expertly. But your decisions are still fraught with risk. You have to reach within yourself and feel your decisions.” Meanwhile, the grapes are getting to know Illinois and its five hardiness zones. (The Land of Lincoln is especially “tall” in the horticultural sense.) Shoemaker points to the interesting relationship between grapes and the place
Pictured clockwise from top: Bill Shoemaker; Paul and Diane Hahn; Paul Hahn pruning grapevines; Dr. Shelby Henning; a jar of pickled peppers; Rows of grapevines at Mackinaw Valley Vineyard; Shoemaker’s 2010 Valvin Muscat.
“Tapas with a Twist” Slide on into Bella Vino to sample our beef sliders and indulge in our seasonal menu items.
325 S Main St, Saint CharleS, MO 63301 www.bellavinOwinebarStl.COM (636) 724-3434
Your Personal Concierge Brokerage Firm When you hire an Elizabeth Real Estate Sales Associate, you are hiring a seasoned professional that will become your trusted advisor. 7729 Clayton Road, Clayton, MO 63117 | 314-222-7150
www.elizabethrealestategroupllc.com
Join us during the Strawberry Festival on Saturday June 6th for a 5 Course Prix Fix Menu with Wine Pairing.
Our Hours: Wed & Thursday Dinner 5pm - 8pm; Friday & Saturday Lunch 11am -5pm, Dinner 5pm - 9pm; Sunday Lunch 11am - 5pm. 5501 Locust Street, Augusta, MO 63332 • 636-482-4667 Sillygoosemo.com • Facebook.com/Sillygooseaugusta
When you dine with us you will find your meal beautiful to look at, lovely to smell and delectable to taste.
You Can’t Beat G&W Meat
G&W- a family owned St. Louis tradition celebrating 50 years this June. Visit our retail shop Tues - Sat at 4828 Parker Avenue, just off South Kingshighway. Shop online 24/7 www.gwsausage.com
314-352-5066
Tues. 11am-4pm; Wed.-Fri. 7am-5pm; Sat. 8am-4pm; Closed Sun. & Mon.
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
71
where they’re planted. “You may have heard of the word terroir – it’s a sense of place,” Shoemaker says. “The French coined this term, and it recognizes the ability of grapes to adapt to their environment in a way that other crops don’t.” He says that other fruit crops will do this to some extent, but nothing like grapes. And here’s a paradox about growing grapes in Illinois’ rich soil: Grapes like it a little rough. “Managing vigor becomes a really big issue with growing grapes,” Shoemaker says. “The French, in places like Bordeaux, have these sites that limit the growth of plants. They will plant in very tight formations, and the site itself does most of the work of managing the vine beautifully.” The soil of the right bank of the Dordogne River in Bordeaux is filled with gravel. High in calcium, it is lacking in other nutrients. And this poor soil limits growth for the vines.
Henning has a Ph.D. Don’t try this at home.
Back at Mackinaw Valley Vineyard, Paul and Diane Hahn snuggle against a brisk spring wind. The porch of the winery’s tasting room overlooks rows of Frontenac grapes. Beyond the grapes, on the horizon 30 miles away, a line of power-generating windmills churn the Illinois farm air. Making a bottle of wine is expensive. It’s labor intensive from beginning to end. And Hahn is there for every step, including the very beginning, walking the rows, pruning and snipping, hand-cultivating 15 acres of farmland growing one of the world’s most prized crops. It’s a labor of love, you think, as you watch this man look out over his vines. “It’s my pleasure,” Hahn says. “It’s my life.” And then he begins to weep.
“That’s why Bordeaux was recognized a long time ago as a great place to grow grapes,” Shoemaker says. “You didn’t have to have a lot of expertise to grow really high-quality grapes. If you had the expertise, you could even improve on what the site did. But in places like Illinois, you have to manage well – and you’re managing the vigor.”
Dr. Shelby Henning runs the research center out in the Chicago suburbs these days. The vineyards that Shoemaker planted are there, some pruned, some looking a little wild – all badly damaged by the polar vortices that dropped arctic air onto northern Illinois two winters in a row. “The past two winters were pretty bad,” Henning says. “I mean we got to negative 20-something [degrees] last year.” Weather like that will test the winter hardiness of any plant. “Farming’s a gamble,” Henning says. “This far north, you’re pushing the envelope.” But that’s what these vineyards are for. They’re here to test the hardiness of grape hybrids. Better that a plant be tried and fail in a test row here than fail in a commercial vineyard down the road. And growers like Paul Hahn pay attention to the performance of the varieties being tested here. Meanwhile, you wait and let the grapes grow. Henning sits at the lunch table in the research center. There’s a greenhouse out the back door with makings of a pretty good salad: tomatoes, lettuce, cucumbers and some peppers that will knock not only your socks off, but also the socks of the person sitting next to you. There’s a jar on the lunchroom table – a science experiment, really – filled with pickled peppers that have gotten just a wee bit too friendly with some bacteria. Remember: 72
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
Hahn is living with stage 4 colon cancer. Two and a half years ago, his doctors told him he may only have two years to live. Two vintages. He is trying to stretch that with chemotherapy, but it takes its toll on him. And the vineyard is a lot of work. “That’s where I want to be,” he says. “With the grapes.” That’s where Hahn is most comfortable: walking the rows, taking care of the plants. He knows which ones want to get bushy and which want to droop. He knows the fruit to expect from one and what to expect from its neighbor. Each plant has character. Fifteen acres is a lot of land to know that well. In that, Hahn is not alone. Grape growers the world over know their vineyards just as well. But none has a more pressing reason to hope to see another vintage, to see for themselves what sun and rain and soil and vine will produce for them to work with and for us to enjoy. There is no other crop grown in the world with as much mystique and as much romance. People love wine. And winemakers love grapes. And farmers love their vines, like they love their children. Think of that the next time you pull a cork from a bottle. As we leave Hahn’s vineyard, he asks me to remind people to get a colonoscopy when they turn 50. “I waited too long,” he tells me. It’s a generous thing for a generous man to say, living, as he does, with the crab clutching at his very life. He has the strength of character to think of others in that moment. What a sad, brave thing to do: to think of us, because you want us all to enjoy another glass of wine. Mackinaw Valley Vineyard, 33633 State Route 9, Mackinaw, Illinois, 309.359.9463, mackinawvalleyvineyard.com
top illinois and missouri hybrid wine grapes The following hybrid wine grapes are the top five grown in Illinois and Missouri. This information comes courtesy of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board and the Illinois Grape Growers and Vintners Association. ChambourCin. A French-American hybrid, Chambourcin’s parentage is unknown. The blue-black grape grows in large, loose clusters of medium-sized berries. The vine is low to moderately vigorous and is not reliably hardy in northern Missouri. Chambourcin is susceptible to several fungal diseases including powdery mildew and, to a lesser extent, downy mildew. Chambourcin ripens about the same time as Concord. It is processed as a red wine grape and is fermented on the skins. Chambourcin yields full-bodied, dry red wine that is moderately fruity, possibly with some subdued berry notes. Chardonel. A high-quality white hybrid wine grape released from the New York State Agricultural Experiment Station at Geneva, New York, in 1996. Chardonel is a cross of Chardonnay and Seyval Blanc and is very similar in flavor to its Chardonnay parent. It is a moderately vigorous and moderately cold-hardy vine that is highly productive and requires cluster thinning to prevent overcropping and to achieve maximum quality. It has moderate- to large-sized clusters of medium-sized berries and is somewhat more rot resistant than Chardonnay. It has been found to be susceptible to the root form of grape phylloxera and may benefit from grafting to a pest-resistant rootstock. FrontenaC. Released in 1996, Frontenac is a cross of the French hybrid Landot 4511 and Vitis riparia 89, also known as the “riverbank grape.” The wine grapes are very disease resistant, cold hardy and grow in medium to large clusters. Frontenac is most often used to produce red, rosé and Port styles of wine with blackberry, black currant and plum on the palate. maréChal FoCh. A French hybrid red wine grape variety developed in Alsace, France, Maréchal Foch’s parentage is unknown. The grape was named for the French marshal Ferdinand Foch, who helped negotiate armistice terms at the end of World War I. Maréchal Foch wine is often deep red in color with earthy, spicy and dark fruit flavors. traminette. A late mid-season white wine grape, Traminette was crossed at the University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign in 1965 and released by the New York State Agricultural Experiment Station in 1996. Traminette is a cross between Joannes Seyve 23.416 and Gewürztraminer, and produces fruit and wine quality similar to its Gewürztraminer parent. Vines are vigorous, moderately cold hardy and have a late bud burst similar to Norton and Vignoles. Traminette is moderately productive and does not require cluster thinning. It has a high percentage of Vitis vinifera in its background, and grafting to pestresistant rootstocks is recommended to overcome potential problems with the root form of phylloxera. The wine usually has a floral aroma with fruity, somewhat spicy flavor. Traminette is currently growing in popularity in Missouri wine industry and throughout the Midwest. Vidal blanC. A French-American cross of the vinifera variety Ugni Blanc and another hybrid, Seibel 4986, Vidal Blanc has large clusters of medium to small berries flecked with small russet dots. The vines are moderately winter hardy and susceptible to several fungus diseases including powdery mildew and anthracnose. The clusters resist rot and can stay on the vine for a longer period of time compared to Seyval Blanc. Vidal Blanc is processed as a white wine grape and is not fermented on the skins. It produces white wine with fruity and floral notes. Vignoles. A white French-American hybrid wine grape cultivar with unknown parentage, Vignoles is widely grown on the East Coast and in the Midwest. It produces a variety of high-quality wine styles, including dry, off-dry and sweet, and is frequently used in white wine blends. Vignoles wines boast an aromatic, floral nose and excellent fruity flavors of stone fruit and citrus. The vines have good cold hardiness and a later bud opening period than most wine grape cultivars, thus making it less susceptible to late frost damage. The clusters are small and very tight and are highly susceptible to bunch rots. Vignoles is an earlier ripening cultivar harvested in late August or early September.
IT’S BARBECUE SEASON!!
GENESIS® EP-310 GAS GRILL
• Total Cooking Area = 637 Square Inches • 38,000 BTU-Per-Hour Input Main Burners • Two Stainless Steel Work Surfaces • Natural Gas Grill Includes A 10-Foot Flexible Hose
See Our Great Selection of Weber Gas & Charcoal Grills AND Parts and Accessories! LET US CUSTOM DESIGN AN OUTDOOR KITCHEN FOR YOU! There’s no other store like
of St. Louis, Inc.®
Quality Since 1871
825 South Lindbergh, • 314-993-5570 825 South Lindbergh63131314-993-5570
Mon.-Wed.-Thurs.-Sat 10:00-5:30 Tues.-Fri. 10:00-8:00 Sun. 12:00-5:00 www.forshaws.com Just 12 minutes from Chesterfield Valley.
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
73
Radio Rich Dalton mornings 6am – noon Monday – Saturday!
Classic Rock and More
Listen and watch as KRMS presents Lake Race 2015!
Race and Event Schedules 2015: Race Week May 30th through June 7th 2015 Saturday May 30 - Lake Race 5k Run on the Bagnell Dam Strip Registration | Sponsorship - Lake Race Firemen Fun Run (poker run) Friday June 5th - Lake Race Street Party on Historic Bagnell Dam Strip Sat. June 6th - Powerboat Racing Sun. June 7th - Powerboat Racing Detailed 2015 Schedule Coming Soon!!!
www.krmsradio.com www.lakejob.com 935rocksthelake.com 74
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
NOTICE OF PUBLIC SALE
ATTENTION DEALERS:
MUST REGISTER & SHOW TAX I.D & RESALE NUMBERS
-OPENDIRECT TO THE PUBLIC
UNCLAIMED FURNITURE
REQUIRES IMMEDIATE DISPOSAL OF MATTRESSES & FURNITURE FROM CANCELLED, DELINQUENT & UNCLAIMED LAYAWAY ACCOUNTS
$
4-PIECE QUEEN BEDROOM PACKAGE
NO CREDIT CHECK!
Additional Color Available
Bonded Leather Sectional
199
at the
from
299
for an elegant
$
ea. pc.
QUEEN HEADBOARD, DRESSER, MIRROR, BEDFRAME
DISCOUNTED OUNTED LIVING ROOM C COLLECTIONS
399
$
Sofa Only
$
Sofa Only
$
Sofa Only
499
$
Sofa Only
499 499
BEFORE THE THURSDAY & FRIDAY NIGHT PERFORMANCES OF
ANTONY AND CLEOPATRA BEGINNING MAY 28TH
HURRY IN! QUANTITIES ARE LIMITED! Solid Wood Bunk bed
$
Canopy 7pc Dining Set Bed
89
$
COLORS 3 Pieces 5 Finishes
BLACK, CHERRY, MERLOT, OAK, WHITE
199
$
$ Self-Stick Tile
4 DRAWER CHEST
•
FROM
3pc Table Set
499
$
HEADBOARD, CHEST & BEDFRAME
199
12" x 12"
59
$
from
39
5999
(sold in sets)
CHIRO-EXTRA
299
$
$29 Ea. Pc. TWIN $49 Ea. Pc. FULL
SLEEP REST
59
SLEEP ULTRA $69 Ea. Pc. TWIN $89 Ea. Pc. FULL $105 Ea. Pc. QUEEN
25-Yr. Ltd. Warranty
104
$
CASH BAR WILL BE AVAILABLE
EMAIL RWOLOWNIK@SFSTL.COM TO RESERVE TICKETS
$99 Ea. Pc. TWIN $129 Ea. Pc. FULL $145 Ea. Pc. QUEEN $126 Ea. Pc. KING
EURO-LUX PILLOWTOP
15-Yr. Ltd. Warranty
199 69 $
QUEEN $ PILLOWTOP CHIRO EXTRA
25-Yr. Ltd. Warranty
99
$
$59 Ea. Pc. TWIN $74 Ea. Pc. FULL
$50 TICKET PRICE INCLUDES THE COST OF DINNER AND A RESERVED SEAT DURING THE PERFORMANCE
$84 Ea. Pc. TWIN $99 Ea. Pc. FULL $129 Ea. Pc. QUEEN $109 Ea. Pc KING
CHIRO-PEDIC
10-Yr. Ltd. Warranty
$
20-Yr. Ltd. Warranty
84
$
5-Yr. Ltd. Warranty
29
2x3 • 2x6 • 5x8
$
SLEEP FIRM
$
3-Pc. Rug Set
¢
(sold in sets)
QUEEN SIZE MATTRESS
99
$104 Ea. Pc. TWIN $139 Ea. Pc. FULL $149 Ea. Pc. QUEEN $133 Ea. Pc. KING
A N TO N Y A N D C L EO PAT R A BY WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE
Directed by Mike Donahue
No Credit Check! FREE LAYAWAY! ATTENTION CONTRACTORS & REMODELERS!! LIQUIDATING ALL LAMINATE/ CERAMIC + FLOORING ACCESSORIES AT OR BELOW COST!!
WONDERBOARD$ 99 (1/2inch)3ft x5ft - 5
Mon & Fri 10a-8p Tue, Wed, Thu 11a-7p Sat 10a-6p Sun 12-6p
HAZELWOOD 8780 PERSHALL RD (314) 522-8886
Braided FENTON Rugs 625 GRAVOIS RD
10
$
99
(636) 326-9015
ST. LOUIS 4650 LANSDOWNE (314) 832-5300 FAIRVIEW HEIGHTS 100 COMMERCE LN (618) 394-0833
A HOME DECOR LIQUIDATORS COMPANY • SAME-DAY PICK-UP AND DELIVERY• www.hdoutlets.com
may 22 – june 14, 2015 free in forest park 8 p m n i g h t ly e x c e p t t u e s d ay s 6:30pm green show
C E L E B R AT I N G 15 Y E A R S F R E E I N F O R E S T P A R K
ADVANCED RESERVATIONS REQUIRED Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
75
edited by bethany Christo and Liz MiLLer photography by Jennifer siLverberg
course:
paired up dish preparation by Chris desens, prograM direCtor of the CuLinary institute of st. Louis at hiCkey CoLLege
With more than 250 wineries across Missouri, illinois and kansas, it’s safe to say the regional wine industry is booming. as industries continue to expand in each state, more wineries are growing beyond their tasting rooms to offer full-service restaurants where their food-friendly varietals are served with seasonal fare. We asked restaurant chefs at five regional wineries to share fresh, easy-to-make recipes to pair with five varietals – vidal blanc, vignoles, Chardonel, norton and port – in five courses. some of the dishes are served at the wineries’ restaurants, while others are former favorite menu items or original creations. prepare a few courses to complement wine varietals at home, or travel across the region to sip and savor pairings at each of the wineries. –L.M.
winery:
Les bouRgeois VineyaRds 14020 hWy bb, roCheport, Missouri, 573.698.2716, MissouriWine.CoM
Spring SAlAd with VidAl BlAncBAlSAMic VinAigrette Recipe and intRoduction by aaRon View, executiVe chef, Les bouRgeois VineyaRds
While Les Bourgeois’ Vidal Blanc has herbal notes, it also has a fruity side. Grapefruit and pear are very common notes in a Vidal Blanc, and the pine nuts pair well with the wine’s herbaceous character. Serves | 4 | paRmigiano-Reggiano chips
3 cups shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano VidaL bLanc-baLsamic VinaigRette
2 cups Vidal Blanc 1 cup balsamic vinegar ¼ cup brown sugar spRing saLad
12 oz mix red leaf, mustard greens, spinach and frisée or mixed greens, divided 2 whole shallots, sliced 2 grapefruit, cut supreme style 2 pears, cut into thin wedges 1 cup pine nuts
76
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
| Preparation – Parmigiano-Reggiano Chips | preheat oven to 275°f. place small round piles of parmigiano-reggiano shavings on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. bake for approximately 8 minutes or until cheese is melted and starting to become golden brown. remove from the oven and allow to cool to point where cheese is hard and crunchy like a potato chip.
| Preparation – Vidal Blanc-Balsamic Vinaigrette | in a small heavy-bottomed pan on medium to medium-high heat, combine vidal blanc, balsamic and sugar and reduce by half. Let cool.
| Preparation – Spring Salad | plate your greens and add equal amounts sliced shallots, grapefruit, pear and pine nuts, drizzling vinaigrette over top. place your parmigiano-reggiano chips decoratively on top for a delicious garnish full of texture. serve with vidal blanc wine.
course: winery:
Seven SpringS Winery 846 Winery Hills estates, linn Creek, Missouri, 573.317.0100, sevenspringsWinery.CoM
| Preparation | Combine first six ingredients and stir until evenly incorporated to season cream cheese. set aside.
BourSin MuShrooMS recipe and introduction by Mike biele, oWner, Seven SpringS Winery
I find that large button mushrooms work better than shiitake or portabella mushrooms in this recipe, as you don’t want the mushroom to overpower the flavors of the cream cheese.
These easy-to-make, shareable mushroom caps pair well with Vignoles, as the spice of the seasoned cream cheese is softened by the mozzarella cheese, allowing the light flavor of the mushrooms to come through.
Serves | 4 |
preheat oven to 350°F.
3 ½ ½ ½ ½ ½ 4
pop stems off washed mushrooms to expose just the caps. Fill caps with seasoned cream cheese and place mozzarella slices over top to cover. using your thumbs, push mozzarella slices into cream cheese to hold mozzarella in place. transfer mushroom caps to a baking sheet and bake in the oven until cheese is golden brown, about 8 to 10 minutes. serve immediately with vignoles wine.
cups softened cream cheese tsp garlic powder tsp dried basil tsp oregano tsp thyme tsp onion powder large button mushrooms, washed Boursin-style cream cheese 4 slices mozzarella cheese
Join us for
experience the new jazz at the bistro concerts | dinner | drinks
Banquet room seats up to 100
Remember Mom on Mother' s Day
full concert listing at jazzstl.org tickets & info: 314.571.6000 the harold & dorothy steward center for jazz 3536 washington ave. st.louis, mo 63103 Wells Fargo Advisors is the Presenting Sponsor of the 2014-15 Jazz at the Bistro Season
78
feastmagazine.com
MAy 2015
3400 Fosterburg Road Alton, IL 618.462-4620 castellis255.com
Rescued, Renovated & Re-invented Home Décor.
L A N I O T NA 2015
DONUTS
ENJOY DONUTS FROM
STRANGE
DONUTS (ST. LOUIS)
UNION SQUARE
DONUTS (BOSTON)
DISTRICT
DONUTS (NEW ORLEANS) A SPECIAL ACOUSTIC PERFORMANCE BY
STORY OF THE YEAR AND THE STRANGE CARES
2015 SCHOLARSHIP PRESENTATION
$
10 TICKETS:
LL
Includes A! Donuts
GOOD EATS WITH
Sugarfire Smokehouse & Mission Taco Joint
TASTY BEERS FROM 4 Hands Brewing Co.
DJ SETS BY
Billy Brown & Drace
HOSTED BY
Wesley Hoffman and Special Guests!
FRIDAY JUNE 5, 2015 6-10 PM AT KALDI’S COFFEE ROASTING PLANT (3983 Gratiot Ave.)
BENEFITING STRANGE CARES
#STRANGEDONUTDAY
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
81
winery:
montelle wineRy 201 Montelle Drive, AugustA, Missouri, 636.228.4464, Montelle.coM
Grilled ChiCken Beurre BlanC
course:
Recipe and intRoduction by tony Kooyumjian, owneR, montelle wineRy
We chose grilled chicken in beurre blanc sauce with a kick of herb because it pairs well with and enhances oaked and unoaked Chardonel. Beurre blanc matches the buttery profile in the wine and at the same time, brings out the citrus and herbaceous notes in the bouquet and on the palate. Look for flavors of oak, butter, herb and citrus in the pairing. It’s helpful to have a glass of the Chardonel before preparing the sauce, as you may want to throw in a few different fresh herbs to further enhance the specific flavors you pick up in the wine. We chose to use artichokes and mushrooms, as they are currently in season and will add depth, texture and a hint of earth to the overall flavor profile. This sauce is also good with fish, as the lemon juice and Chardonel present well-balanced acidity.
Serves | 4 | beuRRe blanc
1to 2 shallots, finely chopped 2 oz artichokes, cleaned, roughly chopped 2 oz chopped seasonal mushrooms (optional) 2 oz lemon juice 8 oz Chardonel 1 Tbsp heavy cream ½ tsp fresh thyme 12 Tbsp cold unsalted butter, cubed salt and white pepper chicKen
6 4 1 1 to 1¼ ½ 1 to 1½ 4
Tbsp extra virgin olive oil large garlic cloves, minced tsp dried thyme tsp salt tsp freshly ground black pepper tsp lemon zest boneless, skinless chicken breasts (pounded to about ½-inch thick)
| Preparation – Beurre Blanc | in a large
saucepan over high heat, combine first 5 ingredients and reduce to 2 tbsp liquid. Add cream and thyme to reduction and bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low. Add butter, 1 cube at a time, whisking first over heat, then off heat. continue whisking butter until mixture is fully emulsified and reaches a rich consistency. season with salt and white pepper to taste.
| Preparation – Chicken | in a large bowl, mix all ingredients together except chicken. Add chicken to bowl and evenly coat in marinade. For optimum flavor, allow chicken to marinate for at least 4 hours or overnight. grill chicken over high heat, covered, for 3 to 4 minutes per side. serve with seasonal vegetables, roasted garlic mashed potatoes and chardonel wine.
course:
BrAiSed ShorT riBS wiTh PArMeSAn PolenTA And ScAlded KAle
winery:
stone hill WineRy 1110 SToNe HIll HIgHwAy, HeRMANN, MISSouRI, 573.486.2221, SToNeHIllwINeRy.CoM
Recipe and intRoduction by Michael padilla, chef, Vintage RestauRant at stone hill WineRy in heRMann, MissouRi
This dish was featured as a special at Vintage Restaurant at Stone Hill’s flagship location in Hermann, Missouri, in March. The richness of the short ribs complements rich, full-bodied Norton wine, which is also used to make the braising liquid for the ribs. Serves | 2 | bRaised shoRt Ribs
½ 5 1 2 5 5 1 ½ 3 3 4
82
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
cup canola oil beef short ribs onion, diced carrots, diced celery stalks, diced cloves garlic, minced cup tomato paste bottle Norton sprigs parsley sprigs thyme cups beef stock
paRMesan polenta
2 ½ ½ 1 1 1
cups chicken stock cup heavy cream cup butter cup polenta cup Parmesan cheese cup sliced scallions
scalded Kale
1 1 1 1 ½
cup oil bunch kale, trimmed Tbsp sugar shallot, chopped salt and freshly ground black pepper cup chicken stock
| Preparation – Braised Short Ribs | Preheat oven to 300°F.
In a Dutch oven over medium heat, heat oil and sear short ribs on all sides until browned. Remove from Dutch oven and set aside. In a large saucepan over medium heat, add onion, carrots, celery and garlic and sauté until caramelized. Add tomato paste and
cook 1 minute. Add Norton wine and allow to reduce by half. Transfer seared short ribs into the saucepan. Meanwhile, wrap parsley and thyme in cheesecloth; tie into a bundle with string, making a bouquet garni. Add bouquet garni and beef stock to the saucepan and bring to a boil. Cover and transfer to bake in the oven for 2 to 3 hours until tender. Remove from oven and let rest for 10 minutes before serving.
| Preparation – Parmesan Polenta | In a saucepot over high heat, bring stock, cream and butter to a boil. Slowly add polenta and stir constantly until cooked, about 2 minutes. Turn off heat, add cheese and scallions and stir to combine. Set aside. | Preparation – Scalded Kale | In a sauté pan over high heat, add oil and kale and allow to sear for 2 minutes. Add sugar, shallot, salt and pepper, stir and allow to sear for 10 more seconds. Slowly add chicken stock and allow to steam for 30 seconds. Serve scalded kale with Norton-braised short ribs, Parmesan polenta and Norton wine.
I WIsh I KneW...
course: winery:
#1
chaumette vineyaRds & WineRy 24345 STaTe ROad WW, STe. GenevIeve, MISSOURI, 573.747.1000, chaUMeTTe.cOM
ChoColATe-DiPPeD CheeSeCAke PoPS Recipe and intRoduction by adam Lambay, executive chef, chaumette vineyaRds & WineRy
Missouri’s state grape, Norton, is often used to make Ports, as the grape has long hang-time and high skin-to-juice ratio, which both contribute complexity and full-bodied weight. The following dessert is far less sweet than a typical Missouri Port: The golden rule of pairing wine and dessert is that the wine should always be at least as sweet as the food, if not sweeter.
In a stand mixer with a paddle attachment on medium high, cream cheeses and sugar, about 5 minutes, while scraping down sides of bowl with a rubber spatula. Repeat scraping process at least 2 more times, 15 minutes total.
When mixture is smooth, add crème fraîche and salt. Mix until well-incorporated, The concentrated fruit flavors of dried scraping down sides again. Lower speed to fig, currants and cherries in regionally medium, add eggs 1 at a time and mix until produced Ports beautifully juxtapose the everything is evenly blended and silky. Pour rich creaminess of this dessert texturally, batter into prepared pan and transfer to providing additional balanced contrast oven to bake for about 30 minutes, until to the subtly salty acidity of the cheese. cake is light brown and wiggles like cold The smoke and cocoa characteristics Jell-O when shaken. (Baking time will vary of Port underscore the dark chocolate’s depending on thickness or depth of pan.) aromatics and the almond’s fragrant Remove from oven and allow to cool to room toasted flavor. I recommend using Baetje temperature, then refrigerate overnight. Farms’ goat cheese in this recipe – it’s the best goat cheese I’ve ever had, and Using a cookie-dough scoop, scoop chilled its superior freshness is what makes this batter and roll with hands to form pingpongsized balls. Place balls onto a lined or unlined dessert so delicious. baking sheet and refrigerate. Serves | 36 pops | cheesecake
16 8 ½ ½ 1 6 4 48
cooking spray oz high-quality, fresh goat cheese oz room temperature cream cheese cup sugar cup crème fraîche or sour cream pinch salt eggs oz crushed toasted almonds cake pop sticks (in case more are needed)
dipping chocoLate
4 oz high-quality bittersweet chocolate 2 Tbsp heavy cream cocoa powder (for garnish)
Transfer crushed almonds to a small bowl. Roll chilled balls of batter in nuts until evenly coated, then slide each ball onto cake pop sticks to form lollipops. Return to baking sheet and refrigerate until set.
boxed or canned stock Recipes may call for either the chicken variety or the vegetable one – why not keep a supply of both? They make an
Chef’s easy Knife base for soup, casserole and even risotto. This is every chef’s go-to tool. Use a chef’s knife for everyday salt You simply can’t open a cookbook without seeing the necessity of good tasks, from chopping onions to kosher salt. Make sure to have a full grinder in your pantry at all times. butterflying pork. If you buy only one high-quality knife, this is the pepper is another essential – and style in which thatPepper you should invest. And keep itimportant sharp. A dullcase to go with fresh it’s equally in this blade is peppercorns a dangerous andblade. a grinder, not a tin of the
#2 #3
pre-ground stuff. Keep a large supply on hand; you’ll be shocked by how quickly you run through it.
#4
| Preparation – Cheesecake | Preheat oven to 300°F. Prepare a springform pan or an 8-by-8-inch glass baking dish with cooking spray.
which ten Which items i should knife always keep into my use! pantry
Paring Knife
italianThis seasoning all in purpose seasoning small knife and/or is a workhorse the kitchen. With a
You really should have a fully stocked spice3-rack, but if you’re just use starting out pointed blade that’s about to 4-inches long, your and need toparing pick one versatile jar, you can’t go wrong with Italian seasoning. knife for detailed, intricate cuts and peeling fruitsA classic combination of dried rosemary, thyme, sage, savory, oregano, basil and and veggies. marjoram, it elevates many dishes.
#5
olive oil From vegetables to pasta to bread, everything tastes better with a teaspoon or two of Chinese Cleaver extra virgin olive oil. Don’t be caught in a kitchen Need a tool to split that rock-hardwithout it.
winter squash in half? This is the one. The Chinese cleaver is also perfect for chopping meats and vegetables, crushingcanned garlic andtomatoes scooping Tomatoes might be ingredients into bowls pans.better in many the only produce and that work
#6 #7
#8 #9
recipes after being canned. That’s because canning captures sun-kissed tomatoes at the height of the season, sparing you from the watery, serrated tasteless versions that abound in winter months.Knife
If you try cutting items like bread, tomatoes or sausage with a straightvinegar What’s good cooking without Impossible, or so we edged knife,acetic you’llacid? probably just squish the product. Alike serrated knife’s grab suspect. If you’re pinching pennies, don’t feel you have to holdteeth out for pricey and then blade to do work, balsamic. A good red wine vinegar worksallow greatthe in many salads andits marinades. so you’ll have beautiful tomato slices for summer’s caprese salads.
rice It’s quick to cook, goes with everything and almost never goes bad.
Keep a large jar of rice in the pantry and see your quick-dinner options multiply.
Carving Knife With a blade that is longer and pasta What’s a great dinner in a pinch? thinner than a chef’s knife, a Pasta and just about anything. Whatever you carving knife is perfect for slicing have in your fridge, from cheese to vegetables meat cleanly and evenly. Use a to leftover meat, a simple dried pasta will sawing motion to most effectively probably complement it. use this knife and the result will be beautifully presented centerpiece meats for your dining soy sauce It’s one of the most versatile sauces, pairing perfectly with room table.
#10
soup and many meats for that prized umami taste. And with ten times the antioxidants of red wine, it’s good for you, too.
| Preparation – Dipping Chocolate | In a small glass bowl, slowly warm chocolate and cream in the microwave, stirring to ensure chocolate is melted completely. Gently dip pops in chocolate. Place pops back onto the baking sheet and refrigerate until set. Remove pops from refrigerator when firm. Garnish with cocoa powder. Serve with Port. Inspired Local Food Culture
MAy 2015
83
uncorking a
Missouri after almost 20 years of retirement, missouri riesling is back in business Written by Danny WooD
| PhotograPhy by Jenny Morgan
terry neuner’s search for a disappearing grape began 10 years ago with an old photograph. he was attending a presentation by gary Kremer, director of the State historical Society of Missouri, when he spotted a sign with the words “Missouri riesling” in the background of a century-old photo. neuner, a biochemist-turnedwinemaker and owner of Westphalia Vineyards in Westphalia, Missouri, had never heard of the white wine variety. “i looked it up, and the rest is history,” he says. in 2013, neuner released his first bottling of the grape, which he labels under the name renaissance. he estimates that the wine is likely the only commercial bottling of Missouri riesling in existence today. however, neuner’s Missouri riesling revival is not the first for the grape, which seems to have a knack for making comebacks.
THE FIRST REVIVAL Like many wine grapes, Missouri riesling was largely wiped out by Prohibition. although out of commercial production for more than 40 years, the variety was replanted by many prominent Missouri wineries – including Stone hill Winery in hermann and Mount Pleasant estates in augusta – in the 1970s when the revival of the state’s wine industry started gaining steam. by the ‘90s, a number of other wineries in the state also bottled Missouri riesling, including augusta Winery in augusta. Despite 84
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
the grape’s second wave of popularity, when neuner took up his quest in 2005, Missouri riesling had virtually disappeared for the second time. regional winemakers say there were two key reasons for the second vanishing act. First, winemakers were finding that Missouri riesling could be difficult to grow. “there was a lot of Missouri riesling planted in the ‘60s and ‘70s, but most of it was removed because the grape tends to split and rot,” says tony Kooyumjian, owner of augusta and Montelle wineries, both located in augusta. the humid growing conditions across the Midwest only amplified these problems, and it was likely no coincidence that 1995 was Stone hill’s last vintage of Missouri riesling – a year of major flooding. afterward, the winery pulled out all of its aging vines, and most other Missouri wineries did the same – although Kooyumjian says he still has a small crop of about 75 vines in augusta, which he uses with other white grapes to make blends. Second, Stone hill’s senior winemaker, Dave Johnson – who made nearly 20 vintages of Missouri riesling between 1978 and 1995 – says that by the mid-1990s, white grape varieties like Seyval and Vidal blanc were coming into favor and making what many in the industry regarded as better styles of dry wine than Missouri riesling. “you can’t grow every variety, right?” Johnson says. “So we chose, rather than to replace a bunch of old vines, to plant a variety that we thought made better wine and was
g a comeback
i Riesling perhaps less prone to that splitting problem that we would see in certain vintages.” Back in Westphalia, Neuner can’t understand why any winery would want to get rid of Missouri Riesling. “Let me tell you,” he says, “… nobody [should] pull these grapes up.” Neuner suggests that the grapes he’s growing – as opposed to the vines grown in vineyards around the state until the ‘90s – are a rediscovery of the true Missouri Riesling variety. The labels on Westphalia’s Renaissance bottles say that the grape was revived, “after virtually all vines were destroyed in 1919 at the onset of Prohibition.” It’s hard to prove Neuner’s claim, but there do seem to be differences between the grapes used to make the Missouri Riesling wines of past and present. The grape variety that Kooyumjian and Johnson were bottling until the ‘90s was harvested toward the middle of the growing season. Neuner harvests his Missouri Riesling crop much later. “This is going to sound silly,” Neuner says, “but it behaves much like a red grape. It becomes mature later than any wine grape we grow.” In fact, Neuner has harvested his Missouri Riesling grapes at about the same time as his Norton grapes, which is often the very last variety harvested during the season. Neuner says he’s never experienced the splitting or rotting issues described by Johnson and Kooyumjian.
“I don’t have to do anything to [Missouri Riesling vines],” says Neuner, who compares the variety’s disease resistance to Norton, saying it doesn’t usually require any chemical spraying to protect it from pests. Johnson says it’s possible the variety planted at Stone Hill until the 1990s and the one currently grown at Westphalia are different grapes. Both wineries claim to have – or had in the case of Stone Hill – the true Missouri Riesling. Whether the same or not, Neuner says that when he first took up the Missouri Riesling gauntlet, he was unaware of how extensively the grape had been planted just a few years before. “It’s like everything else,” he says. “It’s common knowledge if you know it. We didn’t know it, so we did our research. It certainly wasn’t available when we started looking.”
THE SECOND REVIVAL Neuner says research led him to one of the largest plant germplasm collections, a collection of plant parts and seeds that contain genetic information, on the planet: The National Plant Germplasm System, coordinated by the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) Agricultural Research Service (ARS), which aims to preserve the genetic diversity of the world’s plants at more than 20 repositories around the country. Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
85
At one such repository, the Plant Genetic Resource Unit (PGRU) – located at, but not part of, Cornell University – in Geneva, New York, the curator and horticulturist for grape, apple and tart cherry, Dr. Thomas Chao, says there are more than 20,000 different grape, apple and tart cherry and vegetable samples. In a field planting, among the 1,300 different grapevine specimens, are two vines of Missouri Riesling, propagated from originals donated in the late 19th century. In 1888, Missouri Riesling entered the Agricultural Experiment Station’s grape collection, which would later become affiliated with Cornell. According to old Agricultural Experiment Station files, checked for Feast Magazine by Cornell’s grape breeding and genetics expert, professor Bruce Reisch, the grapes were sent to the university for trials from a nursery in New York by T.S. Hubbard. It’s possible that Hubbard sourced his Missouri Riesling from the original breeder, Nicholas Grein, who developed the variety in Hermann, Missouri. According to author Thomas Pinney’s A History of Wine in America from the Beginnings to Prohibition, Papa Grein – as he was known to younger generations – was one of a number of Missouri Germans who “contributed importantly to the scientific development of viticulture.” Pinney says Papa Grein’s best-known breed was Missouri Riesling.
universities with an agricultural focus and led to the founding of Cornell. Earlier that year, in May 1862, Lincoln signed into law another act of Congress, establishing the Department of Agriculture and laying the foundation for the USDA’s obligation to send out plant samples to any farmer – or winemaker – who requests them. As an agriculturalist, all Neuner had to do was ask for Missouri Riesling cuttings. Eight years ago the USDA sent him his first five samples of the grapevine. From those first cuttings, Neuner has developed a Missouri Riesling vineyard of more than 600 vines. He says another 100 plants are ready to be added to the vineyard next year. After three harvests, production is still small, at about 100 cases, and the first vintage almost didn’t even have a label. Despite the fact that Missouri Riesling was and still is an approved varietal name for American wine labels, Neuner says he had trouble getting the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau to approve his label and that, “finally I called my Congressman, and in two weeks we had the approval. I don’t like that; but it’s true.”
MAKING MISSOURI RIESLING Compared to the hassle of getting the label approved, making wine with Missouri Riesling may have seemed relatively easy.
Missouri Riesling was among dozens of grapes bred to survive in cold and humid climates that helped the Missouri wine industry become one of the largest in the nation before Prohibition. According to Todd Kliman in his book, The Wild Vine, in the 1870s, Missouri produced more than 40 percent of the nation’s entire wine output.
Unlike the vast majority of wineries across the world, Westphalia doesn’t add sulfites to its wines to preserve them. Instead, Neuner relies on the natural chemical changes that occur during fermentation – sometimes in oak barrels, sometimes in stainless steel – to give his wines longevity and guard against oxidation.
“It’s important to realize it has absolutely nothing to do with [European] Riesling,” says Stone Hill’s Johnson.
While it’s standard practice to age many red varieties and some whites in oak barrels after fermentation, it’s somewhat unusual to ferment red or white juice in oak barrels.
“In the 1800s, lots of wineries with native grape varieties appropriated the word ‘Riesling’ in their name,” explains Tim Martinson of Cornell’s Department of Horticulture.
For Neuner’s Missouri Riesling, he uses old oak barrels, rather than new, so the flavor of the wine is not oaky. Instead, the impact of the barrels on the flavor of the wine is neutral – although the reaction from tasting room customers generally isn’t.
“It’s undoubtedly a [Vitis] labrusca hybrid according to the Vitis Catalogue,” he adds. According to the PGRU’s 2014 to 2015 Vitis Catalogue, the grape species known to form part of the Missouri Riesling genetic makeup are two native American grapes: labrusca and Vitis riparia. Martinson says Midwest wine and juice grapes like Concord and Catawba are “labrusca types,” while riparia, because of its cold hardiness and disease resistance, is often used as rootstock for other vines. Despite Missouri Riesling’s fall from favor among regional winemakers in the mid-‘90s, Chao says that since 1997 they’ve sent out cuttings of the grape 49 times, signaling that quite a number of winemakers and vineyard owners are still growing Missouri Riesling. It turns out that Neuner and other winemakers have President Abraham Lincoln to thank for the survival of Missouri Riesling in a national grape repository. The President supported the collection and propagation of different plant species to promote agriculture. His Morrill Land Grant College Act, passed in July 1862, generated funds to establish
86
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
“They either absolutely fall in love with it or don’t like it at all,” Neuner says. “ It’s one or the other.” When Westphalia’s Renaissance is poured into your glass, the first thing you’ll likely notice is its peculiar golden color with a pink-orange hue. As you slightly swirl the stem, the fruit aromas will hit you next – ripe pear with cooked apricots. On the palate, you’ll probably get a strong taste of apple cider with a long, clean finish. Neuner finds it difficult to explain the flavor of the wine he’s spent 10 years bringing back into commercial production. Unlike Westphalia’s other varietals, he says he can’t find another style to compare it to, so the label simply reads, “Fresh, vigorous and ready to drink.” Westphalia Vineyards’ Norton Room, 106 E. Main St., Westphalia, Missouri, 573.455.2000, westphaliavineyards.com
Fun Food, Happy People, Great Drinks! FEAST FAVE Pork Porterhouse. Rensing’s Porterhouse pork chop, cheddar jalapeno bread pudding, green beans, sunny side up egg 106 N. Main St. • Edwardsville 618.307.4830 • clevelandheath.com Mon-Fri 11:00-close, Sat 10:00-close Offering Saturday brunch • First Come - First Serve (No reservations) Open Mon - Fri starting at 11 am and Sat starting at 10 am
Happy Hour Specials Monday through Friday 4:00 to 6:30
All wines by the glass Domestic bottles Local and Craft beers on draft Appetizers
5 $2 $4 $6 $
44 North Brentwood Drive Clayton, Mo 63105 314.721.9400 - www.oceanobistro.com
Welcome
to
Fatima on the Green
Apartment Homes
Unique designs for moms, brides and grads Custom Wedding Sets
Come Live in Our
Neighborhood! Custom Jewelry Designs by our Three Expert Jewelers
Tired of Home Ownership, But Not Ready for Retirement Living?
◆ Spacious with ample storage and stainless appliances ◆ Smoke-free, no pets ◆ Affordable – 2BR, 2nd floor $665/month
Managed Planning
Located 3 blocks south of Bayless Rd. off of Union Rd on Fatima Drive in south St. Louis county. (314) 352-0002 | CALL FOR VIEWING
Creating lasting memories for over 34 years www.oldeworldjewelers.com 4614 N. Illinois • Fairview Heights 618.233.2445 Find us on Facebook and Pinterest
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
87
Classic Italian Cuisine In the Heart of St. Charles County FEATURING DAILY SPECIALS Monday-Friday Lunch & Dinner / Saturday-Sunday Dinner Only Special Appetizers (Bar Only) and Drink Prices During Happy Hour 4pm - 7pm Mon- Fri in the Bar. Featuring an extensive wine list, a full-service bar, and Family-style to-go menus to fit any schedule. Like us on Facebook for Special Offers, Holiday News, and Seasonal Specials.
2061 Zumbehl (Bogey Hills Plaza) • St. Charles • 636-949-9005 • Visit us on
g s bratin usines ly cele years in b 30
Proud
• fratellisristorante.com
Furniture Repaired, Furniture Refinished 5 Year Workmanship Guarantee Quality Craftsmanship • Refinishing • Reupholstery Antique Restoration Repair • Custom Made Draperies Custom Made Furniture • New Furniture • Antiques Monday - Friday 8am - 4:30pm Appointments & Service Available 24 Hrs. A Day, 7 Days A Week
Since 1893
Just east of 3400 S. Kingshighway We accept Discover, Visa, Mastercard and American Express
4821 Fairview Ave., St. Louis • 314.832.1555 • zollingerfurniture.com
Only the Best for Mom! Discover some of the most charming and authentic gifts in the world - gifts that will be treasured and remembered long after they are received. We are happy to customize your gift with a special message and complimentary gift wrapping! Explore our fine products to find the perfect gifts for Mom. Our products include: • Extra Virgin Culinary Oils • True Fruit Balsamic Vinegars • Exclusive Liqueurs • Exquisite Spirits • Fine Wines
7314 Manchster Ave.• Maplewood • 314.932.5262 • vomfassslmo.com
Happy Father' s Day
From the Prezzavento Family to Your Family Chi Mangia Bene Vive Bene! ªT o Eat Well is to Live Wellº Proudly Serving Authentic Italian Food in a Family Atmosphere. Call Now To Book Your Father’s Day Reservations! Let Us Cater Your Special Occasion Featuring Daily Lunch & Dinner Specials
Reservations Recommended, Hours of Operation: Tuesday - Saturday 11am-10pm • Sunday Noon-9pm • Closed Monday
5442 Old Hwy 21• Imperial • 636.942.2405 • trattoria-giuseppe.com 88
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
Recipe for Success with Less Family Stress Almost Summer ... Let’s Get Cookin’ SUMMER PROGRAMS • • • •
Boost Academic Skills Summer Coursework Standardized Test Skills ACT/SAT Prep
• • • •
Study Skills Language & Social Skills Preparing for a Job Drivers Permit
Educational Consulting
9225 Manchester Rd. Suite 100 • St. Louis • 314.475.5035 • SpecialSolutions.com
Not too fancy, just seriously fun! All se7en sweet sins $8.77 Martini Sinful Sweets - $3.50 cupcake Everyday 1 sinful sweet + 1 sweet sin = $10.00 Book your Birthdays, Baby Showers, Bridal Showers, Weddings and Corporate events with us. Specials Sunday - Thursday All Specials run from Open to Close Hours: Monday Closed Tuesday-Wednesday 11am - 11pm Thursday 11am - 12 Midnight Friday-Saturday 11am - 1am Sunday Noon - 10pm
5045 N HWY N • Cottleville • 636.244.5185
se7encupcakes@gmail.com
if your house needs “ahhhh....” May means a manufacturer’s authorized sale on all leather furniture from the industry leading Palliser! Take 20% off stylish Palliser sofas, chairs, recliners, reclining sofas, ottomans and sectionals. But hurry! This sale ends May 31. Offer cannot be combined with any other offer. Glacier Bay Recliner: Everyday starting at $1098 in Leather. Now on Sale at $878. Pricing based on Manual Recliner in 1000 grade leather.
16966 Manchester Rd. • Wildwood • 636.405.2400 • dauneu.com
Chicken Dinner Sundays Now Serving on Our Renovated 3rd Floor! Buy one chicken dinner Get one chicken dinner FREE Expires May 31, 2015. Dine-in only. Limit one coupon per table. Not to be combined with any other offers.
2015 Voted #1 BEST FRIED CHICKEN by St. Louis Post-Dispatch Readers 114 W. Mill St. • Waterloo, IL • 618.939.9933 • gallagherswaterloo.com Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
89
SIP AND SAVOR In honor of our annual wine issue, this month we celebrated wines from across the region. We invited our Instagram followers to share photos of the red and white varietals they were sipping, whether at a favorite restaurant or at a local winery, by using the hashtag #feastgram. To get the scoop on one of Missouri’s newest wineries, turn to p. 58, where we learn how Vox Vineyards is rediscovering America’s native grapes. Then, flip to p. 69 to discover how hybrid grapes are created by scientists in the Midwest. For food-and-wine pairing ideas, turn to p. 76, where chefs from restaurants at five regional wineries share recipes to pair with Midwest varietals in a five-course meal.
|1|
| 1 | Julep @julepkc Rosé all day here at Julep. #TheWineIsFine #Westport #KansasCity #SpringMenu #KCBars #CocktailHour | 2 | aheissl @aheissl Beautiful day out at Augusta Winery. Be on the lookout for some new packaging coming out soon. #MissouriWine #DrinkLocal
|2|
|3|
| 3 | noboleis vineyards @noboleis_vineyards Another warm #Saturday to come out and visit #MOWine country! | 4 | Mindy Jo @eat_right_stay_tight #BedAndBreakfast #Mimosas #Saturday #Morning on the #Patio in #Hermann @HermannHill_Inn #LoveThis place! Bring on the #Wineries today! | 5 | Matt k @mkulenkamp #Wine #Vino #Bias #Vineyards | 6 | underdog wine co. @underdogwine Brighten up a dreary/rainy day with #Rosé #RoséAllDay #PrettyInPink
|4|
| 7 | bruce and tiffany Marler @bruce_da_moose #Winery season! #Wine #MOWine #MissouriWine @ChaumetteWinery |5|
| 8 | Jess
@jessiaub Gorgeous weekend up in #HermannMO with my momma. #MomAndMe #GirlsWeekend
| 9 | gus gus fun bus @gusgusfunbus High over Grafton at Aeries Winery. Boaters gathered on a sandbar in the river below. #AeriesWinery #VisitAlton #Grafton #GreatRiverRoad | 10 | ashley piper @ashley.piper Missouri Wine Country #MissouriWine
|6|
|7|
Want to see your photos in the June issue of Feast? Next month, our focus turns to farmers’ markets across the region. We want to see the fresh spring and early summer produce and artisan food-and-drink products you’re buying from local farmers and producers. To submit your photos for consideration, simply include the hashtag #feastgram and tag @feastmag on your Instagram photos beginning Fri., May 1.
90
feastmagazine.com
MAY 2015
|8|
|9|
| 10 |
PHOTOGRAPHy COuRTeSy OF INSTAGRAM uSeRS
#feastgram
Inspired Local Food Culture
MAY 2015
91
A TOAST TO LOCAL!
SAVE THE DATE! Jan. 30-31, 2016 Benefits The Repertory Theatre of St. Louis
Cheers to local wines! You’ll find some of Missouri’s best-known wines including St. James Velvet Red and White, Stone Hill Pink Catawba and Mount Pleasant Red and White. From Illinois, we’re proud to carry a tasteful selection from Illinois Cellars that includes their Norton. Plus, we offer special wine pricing when you buy six or more 750 ml bottles of wine. Mix or match, it’s up to you! Variety and selection may vary by store.
WINE EXPERTISE!
We’re also proud to offer our many Certified Specialists of Wine (CSW) – more than any local grocer!
METRO ST. LOUIS Culinaria 315 N. 9th St. Hampton Village 60 Hampton Village Plaza 1020 Loughborough Loughborough 3430 S. Grand South City
314 436-7694 314 353-5060 314 752-5333 314 772-5500
David Bradford Ryan Glasscock Jacque Arnicar Rick Flynn
ST. LOUIS COUNTY 10070 Gravois Affton 15425 Manchester Rd. Ballwin 8800 Manchester Rd. Brentwood 11253 St. Charles Rock Rd. Bridgeton Butler Hill 4333 Butler Hill Rd. Chesterfield 141 Hilltown Village Ctr. Crestwood 9540 Watson Rd. 10650 Olive Blvd. Creve Coeur 12332 Manchester Rd. Des Peres
314 631-8220 636 256-0644 314 961-5454 314 738-0677 314 894-1227 636 532-2505 314 849-0341 314 567-3838 314 965-3094
Eureka Kehrs Mill Kirkwood Ladue Lindbergh
245 East 5th St. 2511 Kehrs Mill Rd. 10233 Manchester Rd. 8867 Ladue Rd. 10275 Clayton Rd.
636 938-4102 636 207-3401 314 965-7310 314 725-7574 314 991-0510
Richardson Richmond Heights
3900 Vogel Rd. 6600 Clayton Rd.
636 282-3377 314 644-0510
Webster Groves
8650 Big Bend
314 961-0555
Woods Mill
1060 Woods Mill Plaza
636 227-2278
Gibb Brewer Stacey Seipp Susan Kinnison Kate Berry Brian Carmody Kandis Lovcik Jamie LaBarge Bill Meyer Jamie George Wes Powers Matt Wider Mary Jo Gilsinn Fred McMachan Mary Anderson Tom End Stephen Gitto, Advanced Sommelier and Certified Wine Educator Dan Malone Tony Kreutzman Rob Marsek Janet Nicoletti Kurt Hoefel Barbara Hunt Gary Paplanus
ST. CHARLES COUNTY 101 Civic Center Dr. Lake Saint Louis
636 561-1922
Phyllis Breckle
METRO ILLINOIS 3100 Madison Ave. Granite City
618 451-0517
Jolene Ahn
Market Place
1000 Columbia Centre
618 281-6300
Seven Hills Swansea
907 E. Highway 50 2665 N. Illinois St.
618 632-5525 618 236-1414
Tony Mikoff David Ringle Dan Eckart Patrick Walsh
OTHER MISSOURI 19 S. Kingshighway Cape Girardeau 1400 Forum Blvd. Columbia
573 334-9191 573 446-2800
Doug Hileman David Farmer
OTHER ILLINOIS 1001 Court St. Pekin 4800 N. University Peoria
309 347-6757 309 690-3242
Jay Ricketts Larry Hendrickson
©2015 Schnucks