November 2016 Feast Magazine by Feast Magazine

sav e r o o m f o r d e s s e rt

st r e s s - f r e e t h a n ks g i v i n g

rise and shine

5 PUMPKIN PIES

HOLIDAY HANDBOOK

BRIDGE BREAD

Inspired Local Food Culture | M i dw e st

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Get a leg up on Thanksgiving dinner on p. 62

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FOX THEATRE NOVEMBER 15-27 Tickets: MetroTix.com 314-534-1111 Groups 15 plus call: 314-535-2900 FUNHOMEBROADWAY.COM

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we’ve relocated to st. louis!

new tasting room

g n i w eetchasum r B g

opening this month Opening date to be announced on our social feeds

1601 Sublette Ave | St Louis, MO 63110 | 314.669.9013 | 2ndshiftbrewing.com 4

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TruffleS BuTchery

A One-Stop Stop

Thanksgiving

Feast O

ne step into Truffles Butchery and customers can marvel at the wide selection of meats hanging in the Himalayan pink-salt dry-aging room. The art of meat is celebrated at the premium butcher shop, an extension of Truffles restaurant in Ladue, offering the freshest lamb, pork, beef and more, all hand-cut to each customer’s taste. “When people come into the shop, their eyes open up because we have so many products they’ve never seen before,” says Butchery executive chef Steven Caravelli. Among its many specialty items, indulge in prime beef, or even take home a whole hog. “Every member of our staff has an in-depth cooking and butchering background, so we can cut any size meat you want for any size group,” Caravelli notes. Beyond meat, the artisan food and wine boutique offers fresh seafood, soups and sandwiches, salami and cheeses, breads and pastries, ice creams and sorbets, wines and coffees, housemade sauces and more. Housemade gluten-free bread also has been added recently. “People are amazed with the quality – they can’t believe it’s actually gluten-free,” says Aleks Jovanovic, general manager and wine director at Truffles and Butchery. And Truffles fans rejoice in the opportunity to take home their favorite dishes, also available in the shop. With such a vast selection of meats, side dishes and

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desserts, Jovanovic says Butchery is the perfect place to find your Thanksgiving feast. “There’s the option to buy your whole turkey or even buy a complete meal,” Caravelli says. “And if you only need to bring a side to grandma’s house for dinner, you can save time by picking it up here.” The full holiday meal includes a whole turkey – locally sourced from Buttonwood Farm in California, Missouri, roasted Brussels sprouts, green bean casserole and mashed potatoes, as well as stuffing, gravy and cranberry sauce, with apple, pecan and pumpkin pies available for dessert. “It’s all made in-house by our staff,” Caravelli notes. The shop also offers a variety of gourmet holiday gift baskets, filled with everything from fine meats to epicurean dry goods. And Jovanovic says another great holiday gift idea is a certificate to one of Butchery’s classes, where groups up to six can try their hand at carving meats. “We show how to cook each piece of the animal and preserve it,” Caravelli says, adding that guests enjoy meat and wine tastings during the session and select a half or whole hog to take home. At Butchery, the freshest locally sourced and homemade products always are available, Caravelli says. So customers can have their meat and eat it, too. 9202 Clayton Road, Ladue,314-567-7258, todayattruffles.com

PHOTOS BY SARAH CONARD

By Brittany Nay seen in the Ladue News As originally se

Happy Thanksgiving! O r d e r yO u r d i n n e r Or jOin us fOr One

Truffles Butchery, a full-service butcher and artisan food and wine boutique, offers the freshest cuts of meat and seafood, as well as prepared meals, dairy, produce, wine, coffee, desserts and more. Stop by Butchery to pick up your Thanksgiving meal, including a locally sourced whole turkey, fresh vegetables, and housemade sauces and desserts. For more information, call 314-567-7258 or visit todayattruffles.com.

9202 Clayton Rd. Saint Louis, MO 63124 e : info @ todayat truffles . com TUE - SAT 11 am -7P m / SUN 11 am -4P m t: 314.567.7258 f : 314.567.9105 @ butcherystl @ trufflesstl www . todayat truffles . com

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november 2016 62 71 77 83

classics rock

We have your guide for preparing (and enjoying) the most important holiday meal of the year.

FroM the StaFF

| 10 |

FroM the PUBLISher

It’s turkey time

| 14 |

dIGItaL CoNteNt

What’s online this month

friends in knead Bridge Bread provides jobs and economic independence for people struggling with homelessness or home insecurity in St. Louis. For proof that its mission is working, just ask its bakers.

breaking out of the shell

Chestnuts, once a holiday tradition, are putting down new roots in the MIdwest.

reach for the pie

Pastry chef Natasha Goellner whips up five creative interpretations of pumpkin pie that are guaranteed to make you thankful this holiday season.

| 16 |

FeaSt tv

A look at the chocolate episode

dINe

| 20 |

oN treNd

Ramen reimagined

| 22 |

Where We’re dINING

Brown & Loe, CB Social House, Vicia

| 24 |

road trIP

Bloomington, Illinois

| 26 |

IN SeaSoN

Wild mushrooms

drINk

| 32 |

oN treNd

From brews to booze

| 34 |

Where We’re drINkING

Lake Creek Winery, Radius Brewing Co., SoT

| 36 |

the MIx

Vermouth takes center stage

ShoP

| 40 |

Get thIS GadGet

Leveling and measuring spoons and a pumpkin scoop

| 42 |

oNe oN oNe

Kerri Linder of Columbia Culinary Tours

| 44 |

artISaN ProdUCtS

Hilary’s healthy stuffing and Chocolate, Chocolate Chocolate’s pumpkin pie treats

Cook

| 50 |

heaLthy aPPetIte

Smoky golden beet soup with roasted garlic cream

| 52 |

MyStery ShoPPer

Honeycomb

| 54 |

MeNU oPtIoNS

Roasted green beans with pearl onions and bacon lardons in balsamic glaze

| 56 |

SWeet IdeaS

Savory sweet-potato scones COVER PHOTO OF THAnKSgIVIng dInnER (P. 62) BY JEnnIFER SILVERBERg TABLE OF COnTEnTS PHOTO OF MAPLE-PuMPKIn PIE WITH PECAn CRuMB TOPPIng (P. 83) BY AngELA C. BOnd

Volume 7

| Issue 11 | November 2016

Vice President of niche Publishing, Publisher of feast Magazine

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

sales

director of sales

Angie Henshaw, ahenshaw@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1298 account Manager

Jennifer Tilman, jtilman@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1205 sPecial Projects editor

Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1244 PHOTOGRAPHy By RICK FORRESTAL

eDITORIal senior editor

Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com Managing editor

Nancy Stiles, nstiles@feastmagazine.com digital editor

Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas city contributing editor

Jenny Vergara st. louis contributing editor

Mabel Suen editorial intern

Sarah Kloepple fact checKer

Amanda Woytus Proofreader

Christine Wilmes contributing Writers

Christy Augustin, Sherrie Castellano, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pete Dulin, Natasha Goellner, Hilary Hedges, Valeria Turturro Klamm, Lauren Miers, Brandon and Ryan Nickelson, Ana Pierce, Eric Reuter, Matt Seiter, Matt Sorrell, Shannon Weber

aRT

art director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Production designer

Jacklyn Meyer, jmeyer@feastmagazine.com contributing PhotograPhers

Zach Bauman, Angela C. Bond, Sherrie Castellano, Judd Demaline, Jonathan Gayman, Gregg Goldman, Anthony Jinson, Anna Petrow, Jonathan Pollack, Jennifer Silverberg, Christopher Smith, Starboard & Port Creative, Cheryl Waller

FeasT TV

producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Tybee Studios

DIsTRIbUTIOn To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Jeff Moore for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at jmoore@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2016 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC

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Frank McGinty (far right) and Bernard Pilon (center) joined Catherine Neville in the kitchen for This is Not a Restaurant.

publisher’s letter

recently had the honor of hosting a dinner as part of This is Not a Restaurant, a series of one-off chef dinners held at The BHIVE in St. Louis that are orchestrated by Frank McGinty. Frank is the marketing guru at Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co., but in his previous life, he was a restaurant chef. The drive to cook never left him, and now he is able to entice the region’s best chefs to come and cook a bespoke meal for an intimate crowd. Note that I said that chefs typically cook at This is Not a Restaurant. When Frank asked me to plan a dinner, I was hesitant. I love to cook; don’t get me wrong – but I’m not a chef. He talked me into it, though, and I am very thankful that he did. Although I’ve hosted many dinner parties and been in countless restaurant kitchens, I’d never had the experience of cooking in a restaurant environment for a hungry, paying crowd. It was an incredible evening, one that I am thankful for in many ways, but the most impactful aspect of hosting the dinner was the experience of working with the team in the kitchen. The best way I can describe what it was like is that it was as if we were hosting a huge Thanksgiving dinner. Frank and Bernard Pilon, a friend and a chef at Norwood Hills Country Club, made sure

the evening went smoothly as the motley kitchen crew cooked, plated and served the six-course meal. It was heady and loud and fun and gratifying. It made me realize that what makes people fall in love with the restaurant industry is not just the food – it’s the people. The camaraderie. The energy. And that’s exactly what makes me love Thanksgiving and why it’s my favorite holiday. yes, it’s the food, but it’s also the connection with family and friends that make the day special. It’s spending hours in the kitchen creating something you’re eager to share and then gathering together to raise a glass and appreciate the bounty of our lives. In this issue, you’ll find recipes to help you execute a flawless Thanksgiving, but regardless of how perfect (or imperfect) the food might be, what draws us together around the table is the celebration of our relationships with one another. I wish all of you a very happy Thanksgiving. Until next time,

Catherine Neville

11.16 jennifer silverberg St. Louis, Photographer “Given that I’m a food photographer, it should come as no surprise that Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday. Settling into the cool crisp air of Novemeber, I relish the day when I begin planning my Thanksgiving menu. Working with Shannon on the Thanksgiving feature was my way of getting to celebrate the holiday twice. Planning the shoot is like planning my own holiday spread. From figuring out the centerpieces and complementary table décor, to the plating of the delicious side dishes and of course… the turkey. It was a long day on set, but at the end of the day, sitting down to a Thanksgiving meal is what it’s all about. And we did...” (Classics Rock, p. 62)

KANSAS CITY

Sunday, November 6th

6pm

eric reuter Columbia, Missouri, Writer “As a history buff and farmer, I’ve been drawn to the fall and rise of the chestnut in North America. Here we have this native food crop that was a staple for for generations, and then within a single lifetime, it mostly vanished from the continent. In agriculture there can a distinction between heirloom and hybrid produce, and chestnuts really help us explore both approaches: the value of saving and maintaining a traditional food through the knowledge of modern grafting and cultivation. Every chestnut grower I’ve met was so passionate about the past and potential of chestnuts, and I wanted to inspire consumers to take part in their renaissance.” (Breaking Out of the Shell, p. 77)

Single Speed

Terrine w/ apricots, currants, pickled onion, various meats & cheeses

Snake Oil (Red IPA)

angela c. bond Kansas City, Photographer “When Feast asked me to shoot a feature on pumpkin pies, I was super excited! I am a big fan of anything pumpkin. Pumpkin pie is one of my favorite desserts. Having worked with Natasha on a few other occasions, I knew she would create pies that would be both beautiful and interesting. One of the benefits of being a food photographer and stylist is getting to sample some tasty items. My favorite flavor was the coconut-curry pumpkin. Some of my grandmother’s treasured pie pans were used, as well, for the shoot. Natasha and I had a few little hurdles we had to deal with, but we made it work.“ (Reach for the Pie, p. 83)

shannon weber St. Louis, Writer “I spend a lot of time developing menus of all sorts; very rarely do I get asked to add some of my own heirloom recipes to the mix. What I most enjoyed about writing the Thanksgiving feature this year – my most personal piece to date – was sharing dishes that have graced my own Thanksgiving table for ages with a wider audience (which they deserve, as so many classic recipes do). Shooting the finished meal was special for me, as well: Features like this always mean a long day and a significant amount of work, but working with Jennifer [Silverberg] always feels like a true artistic collaboration. She has a beautiful way of interpreting my food and making it come to life, and spending the day with her left me inspired and eager for [real] Thanksgiving.” (Classics Rock, p. 62)

Spicy Gazpacho

Chocolate Milk Stout Pork mole de coloradito

Citywide APA

Spicy Fried Chicken w/ bacon waffle

Psycho Killer (Tripel)

Hangar Steak, sweet potato puree, roasted brussel sprouts

Volume 4

(American Double/Imperial Stout) Gorgonzola cheese cake, marinara, e.v.o.o., crostini

Absence of Light

(Milk Stout brewed with Peanut Butter) Chocolate Peanut Butter Napoleon with Brown Butter Molasses Ice Cream

Tickets available in store only.

$55 for UFO members, $65 for non-UFO members Inspired Local Food Culture

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NOW BOOKING HOLIDAY PARTIES

STL

Sun., Nov. 6, 2 to 5pm; La Cosecha Coffee Roasters and The Focal Point; $15; facebook.com/lacosechacoffee

MAKE THIS HOLIDAY SEASON’S COMPANY EVENT ONE TO REMEMBER!

CUSTOMIZE YOUR PACKAGE to fit your party needs!

CONTACT OUR EVENTS MANAGERS TODAY! St. Louis City Locations (Sanctuaria, Café Ventana & Diablitos Cantina)

email: stlevents@ingoodcompanystl.com phone: 314.954.3380

St. Charles Locations (Hendricks BBQ & Moonshine Blues Bar)

email: events@ingoodcompanystl.com phone: 314.630.0559

Check our websites for more info & details: HendricksBBQ.com | CafeVentana.com SanctuariaSTL.com | DiablitosCantina.com 12

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la CoseCHa CoFFee roasters 10-year JuBilee Join La Cosecha Coffee Roasters for a celebration of its 10-year anniversary. Ten-Year Jubilee tickets will include a drink at the Maplewood coffee bar from 2 to 3pm, followed by a performance by Erin Bode at The Focal Point music venue from 3 to 5pm. Tickets can be purchased at La Cosecha; proceeds from the event will benefit Loaves & Fishes for St. Louis.

4 Hands Brewing Co. Beer dinner at Flying sauCer Sun., Nov. 6, 6pm; Flying Saucer; $55 for UFO members, $65 for non-UFO members; beerknurd.com

The Flying Saucer in Downtown Kansas City will host an exclusive showcasing of some of 4 Hands Brewing Co.’s more exotic selections in a six-course pairing dinner, including City Wide APA paired with spicy fried chicken on a bacon waffle and Absence of Light peanut butter milk stout paired with a chocolate-peanut butter napoleon. Tickets can be purchased at Flying Saucer in Downtown Kansas City.

CATE Hendricks BBQ proudly presents: RED

HOLIDAY CARRY-OUT CATERING FRES H

G N I V I G S THANK EASY! MADE STL

Fourth annuaL Fine Wine hoLidaY expo Sat., Nov. 12, 6:30 to 9:30pm; Moulin Events & Meetings; starting at $47.50 plus tax; moulinevents.com

Hamilton Hospitality presents the Fourth-Annual Fine Wine Holiday Expo, together with Feast Magazine and Ladue News. Enjoy unlimited tastings of more than 100 fine wines from around the world, plus light appetizers and live entertainment. An additional $20 allows you one-hour early access, plus a $10 voucher toward a wine purchase that evening (limited to 75 guests). A variety of passed and stationed hors d’oeuvres will be available.

CONTENTS: • Smoked Turkey • Cranberry Compote • Mashed Potatoes and Gravy

• Corn Casserole • Sweet Potato Casserole • Green Beans

• 1 Whole Pumpkin Pie STL

Feast Your eYes at the ContemporarY art museum st. Louis Tue., Nov. 15, 6:30pm tour, 7pm dinner; Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis; $75, $50 for members; camstl.org

CAM presents a museum tour followed by an intimate four-course meal by David Kirkland, former chef and manager at Café Osage who currently oversees the café at CAM and is opening the upcoming Turn by David Kirkland restaurant.

STL

sChnuCks Cooks: roasted Green Beans With pearL onions and BaCon Lardons in BaLsamiC GLaze Thu., Nov. 17, 6 to 9pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School; $45; schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

In this class, you’ll learn how to peel fresh pearl onions and make your own balsamic glaze. You’ll also learn how to stuff and roast game hens; prepare savory, cheesy gougères; and make raspberry clafouti.

Orders must be placed by November 20! HendricksBBQ.com/EasyTurkey EASY ONLINE ORDERING!

636.724.8600 Inspired Local Food Culture

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this month on

feastmagazine.com

feastmag

@feastmag

feastmag

@feastmag

feastmagazine

PHotogrAPHy by ANNA PEtroW

PHotogrAPHy by LAurEN MiErS

PHotogrAPHy by MAbEL SuEN

the feed

Win a pair of tickets to the Fourth Annual Fine Wine Holiday Expo at Moulin Events & Meetings in St. Louis on Sat., Nov. 12! Just head to the Promotions section at feastmagazine.com for all the details.

Last month, Sauce on the Side opened its third St. Louis-area location in The Grove. The new spot serves the restaurant’s popular calzones (like The Duke with barbecue chicken, applewood-smoked bacon, corn salsa, smoked Cheddar, mozzarella and smoked-chile oil) alongside a large draft beer selection.

also on the feed... Missouri’s only HyChi – HyVee Chinese – food truck rolled into Columbia, Missouri, in early September. The truck serves a midwestern take on Asian fare, including stir-fry bowls, sushi and crab rangoon. Fall is officially here, and that means it’s time to stock up your fridge with seasonal brews. Chilly autumn nights call for darker and maltier beers, from spicy pumpkin beers to classic Oktoberfests and everything in between. We enlisted Justin Phelps, a Certified Cicerone® and the founder and editor of saintbrewis.com, a beer website with a St. Louis focus, to share his picks for 12 must-try fall beers.

KC Kansas City’s Kauffman Center for the Performing Arts has a new chef at the helm. Executive chef Laura Comer is introducing dishes made with fresh, local products that highlight the flavors of the season – like these banh mi sliders with pickled cucumber and daikon radish. feastmagazine.com

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artisan chocolates and confections Made in St. LouiS | by hand | FroM aLL-naturaL ingredientS

www.kakaochocolate.com kakao on jefferson 2301 S. Jefferson, St. Louis 314.771.2310

kakao clayton 7720 Forsyth, Clayton 314.726.7974

kakao maplewood

7272 Manchester, Maplewood 314.645.4446

Meaningful Specialty Foods from Small Producers Thoughtfully Curated 7310 Manchester Road • Maplewood, MO 63143 314.300.8995 • www.LarderAndCupboard.com

��

Eclectic Japanese cuisine Serving the freshest fish in STL #BaikuSushi

American eatery

craft beers

artisan cocktails

motorcycle themed setting

3407 Olive Street | St Louis, MO 314-896-2500 | baikustl.com

3419 Olive Street | St Louis, MO | 314-446-1801 | triumphgrill.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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at christopher elbow in kansas city, each piece of chocolate is a work of art handcrafted in small batches.

everyone loves chocolate, and in this episode we are exploring the delicious indulgence from bean to bar to confection. you’ll watch as single-origin chocolate bars are made at askinosie in springfield, missouri, from roasting the fermented beans to forming the bars. this episode also takes you inside some of the region’s best confectioners who are making truffles and bonbons by hand: christopher elbow in kansas city and bissinger’s in st. louis. chocolate isn’t just for sugar-lovers, though: host cat neville will show you how to simmer perfect oaxacan-style chicken mole in your own kitchen.

get behind the scenes at askinosie and meet the dedicated team behind these single-origin bars made with cacao beans that are roasted and ground onsite.

the caramel at bissinger’s is made in huge copper kettles using a decades-old recipe. in the episode, you’ll see how it’s cooked, hand pulled and then coated in chocolate to make the company’s molasses-caramel lollies.

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors: Missouri Wines

Whole Foods Market

l’ école culinaire

Missouri Wines supports more than 125 wineries operating in the state and is focused on promoting the industry’s growth and vitality.

Feast TV is proud to feature Whole Foods Market’s 365 Everyday Value line of products. Pick up ingredients at Whole Foods locations in the St. Louis area.

In St. Louis and Kansas City, L’École Culinaire offers high-quality culinary education from basic culinary skills to careers in management.

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the raphael hotel The Raphael Hotel is Feast’s official hotel, offering luxury accommodations and dining near Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza.

In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Saturdays and Sundays at 6:30pm.

In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Sundays at 5:30pm.

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Thursdays at 7pm and Saturdays at 4:30pm.

Feast TV will air in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) every Monday at 12:30pm.

Check mylaketv.com to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.

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Opening

SOON

Savor authentic Italian fare just like “nonna” used to make. From classic favorites like wood-fired Margherita pizza and house-made pasta, to seasonal desserts like slow-churned gelato, Cibare is a little taste of Italy right in St. Louis.

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order up

Brown & Loe serves hearty classic fare including buttermilk chicken sandwiches with smoked Gouda, ancho-tomato jam, house sweet pickles and apple-fennel slaw in a historic building in Kansas City on p. 22. photography by christopher smith

on trend

gre

ramen

en cu

rr y

ra me

reimagined

kounter kulture

Written by HeatHer riske

ST. LOUIS. Chef Michael Miller, who co-owns Kounter Kulture in st. louis’ lindenwood Park neighborhood with Christine Meyer, describes the small carryout shop’s ramen as a playful take on the traditional dish. For starters, the green curry ramen has no broth – rather, Miller subs in a thick, cilantro-heavy coconut-lemongrass curry, resulting in a creation that mixes thai flavors with Japanese noodles. “it’s kind of a mashup of cuisines,” Miller says. “some diners have described it as a vegetarian version of spaghetti and meatballs.” ramen noodles from Midwest Pasta are tossed with summer squash, zucchini, bell peppers and eggplant, topped with crispy panko-breaded and deep-fried cubes of local Mofu tofu and sprinkled with a small salad of cherry tomatoes, shallots, mungbean sprouts and shredded cabbage and a drizzle of kounter kulture’s house vinaigrette.

314.781.4344, kounterkulturestl.com

KANSAS CITY. the ramen you’ll slurp at Columbus Park Ramen Shop doesn’t taste quite like the ramen you’ll find in Japan – and that’s not an oversight. “We feel like the true heart and soul of ramen is that it should be regional [as it is in Japan],” says Josh eans, who opened kansas City’s first ramen shop last fall in the Columbus Park neighborhood with his wife, abbey-Jo. Chef Jonathan Ponzer ensures that the ramen offered has a decidedly local spin. the shop’s shoyu ramen is topped with soft-boiled eggs Farms and roasted amish from Campo lindo l chicken, and its kimchi ramen is garnished with “Missouri-kake,” a playful take on furikake seasoning that uses corn nuts and crushed amish chicken skins.

columbus park ramen shop

PHoto by JaCklyn Meyer

Ramen isn’t new to the region – local restaurants have been serving the traditional noodle dish for years – but it’s hard to deny the uptick in Japanese-style ramen shops opening over the past year. Now, a handful of local chefs are making the dish their own, proving it’s possible to respect the origins of the dish while also paying homage to local flavors.

816.492.5549, columbusparkramenshop.com PHoto by landon VondersCHMidt

vista ramen

men

ST. LOUIS. since opening Vista Ramen on Cherokee

street last May with the Mud House owners Casey and Jeremy Miller, chef Chris bork has been straightforward about two things. First, despite its name, Vista is not exclusively a ramen shop: small plates including pork ribs and octopus ceviche make up most of the menu. second, it doesn’t serve traditional ramen. eschewing specific styles like shoyu or tonkotsu, bork created his own broths; the signature Vista ramen features a broth made with chicken, pork, ginger, Granny smith apples and ham hocks. the pozole ramen pays tribute to Vista’s Cherokee street neighborhood, known for its Mexican restaurants and tiendas. a hit of ancho chile paste adds subtle smokiness to broth with pulled chicken, hominy, a creamy sous-vide egg, scallions and cilantro. 314.797.8250, vistaramen.com

PHoto by J. PollaCk PHotoGraPHy

n eo o

hana chung

chef-manager, byrd & barrel; chef, good fortune

q&A

Written by liz miller

ST. LoUIS.

photography by gregg goldman

hana Chung doesn’t want to be called a chef. She’s shy about titles and doesn’t pursue the spotlight, but when she serves you food, the flavors and preparation speak for themselves. before joining the Byrd & Barrel crew in fall 2015, Chung worked in kitchens across missouri, including bambu Vietnamese Cuisine in Springfield and Juniper in St. louis. She graduated from the now-shuttered le Cordon bleu College of Culinary arts in St. louis, where, among other courses, she studied under pastry chef Christy augustin, co-owner of pint Size bakery in St. louis. (try the cinnamon-sugar or chocolate beignets at byrd, and you’ll know Chung did her homework.) She spent years working in mongolian and Vietnamese restaurants, as well, and credits her time at bambu with teaching her how to make silky, richly spiced pho. this summer, Chung added a cold-noodle salad to the menu at byrd, simply so she “could eat something that isn’t chicken” at work. made with cold ramen noodles, lettuce, pickled carrots and onions, cilantro, cucumbers, cashews and an asian-style pepper-jelly vinaigrette, the dish was an instant hit. bob brazell, owner of byrd, says Chung is one of the most talented chefs he knows, adding that “byrd & barrel would not be where it is today without hana.” Chung will continue to experiment with asian-inspired flavors this fall as she helps develop the menu at Good Fortune with head chef ryan mcdonald. Co-owner Corey Smale announced the “Chinese-americanese” restaurant concept last spring and hopes to open in St. louis in early 2017, although the location has not been finalized. What are some of your earliest memories of food and cooking? i was born in Seoul, South Korea, and women in Korea know how to cook. they’re in the kitchen, dancing, making all this delicious food, laughing. i thought that’s what most kitchens were like; i thought that was awesome. Korean culture has been a very big part of my life. every holiday is food oriented, and in the Korean language, if you ask someone, “how are you?” the basic translation is “have you eaten?” Tell us about the menu you and McDonald are developing at Good Fortune. i’m focusing more on traditional Chinese food, and ryan is focusing more on technique for things like our fermented garlic, miso and thousand year egg. all of the r&d is coming together to be our own style of St. louis-traditional and new wave-Chinese food. i want to stay true to Chinese culture and cuisine; i want to bring it to another level where people can enjoy the different flavors of Chinese food that most of the american public might not be used to, but with St. louis flair. my favorite dish so far is the St. paul sandwich with milk bread and egg foo young made from scratch. i’m also very excited about serving crispy pork belly. traditionally in China, crispy pork belly is a sign of good fortune, so i’d really like that to be on the menu. Any menu changes coming to Byrd & Barrel this fall? We’re going to do a little more homestyle things, like a chicken meatloaf. We have this menu book where we just write out all of our ideas, which is fun. it’s great when your teammates and you are on the same page. that’s the fun of it – we can put whatever we want on the menu, whatever our imaginations allow. What do you love most about your job? Seeing something so basic, like flour, becoming something amazing, like bread… the process, every step. Finding the ingredients, making it, plating it and then watching someone eat it – that’s really beautiful to me. Good Fortune is hosting pop ups leading up to its opening. Keep up with what’s happening this month via Twitter: @goodfortunestl. 314.875.9998, byrdandbarrel.com; goodfortunestl.com Inspired Local Food Culture

nov e mbe r 2 016

where we’re dining From new restaurants to renewed menus, our staff and contributors share their picks for where we’re dining this month.

brown & loe

WrittEN By JENNy VErGArA

stl

KANSAS CITY. Brown & Loe is a welcome addition to the City Market neighborhood in Kansas City, which has always offered an impressive array of restaurants. Harry Murphy runs the New American restaurant with daughter Kate McGlaughlin. Located in the former Merchant’s Bank building that was built in 1920, the restaurant takes its name – still emblazoned across the façade – from the produce brokerage firm that formerly occupied the building.

Executive chef James Paul delivers affordable comfort fare for brunch, lunch and dinner. At lunch, try the buttermilk chicken sandwich with smoked Gouda, ancho-tomato jam, house sweet pickles and apple-fennel slaw on a Farm to Market Bread Co. potato bun. At dinner, you’ll find traditional entrées like steak, chicken and salmon, as well as a delicious Portuguese stew with seafood and sausage in a spicy red sauce. Brown & Loe’s handsome bar is the longest in Kansas City – a whopping 40 feet – and it offers a variety of spirits, beers, wines and even nitrogen-infused cold-brew coffee on tap. 816.472.0622, brownandloe.com

pHoToGRApHY BY JACKLYN MeYeR

vicia

WRITTeN BY SARAH KLoeppLe

ST. LOUIS. After more than a year of pop ups, Michael and Tara Gallina

PHotoGrAPHy By CHristoPHEr sMitH

plan to open one of the year’s most anticipated restaurants, Vicia, this winter. The couple returned to Michael’s hometown of St. Louis last autumn from New York, where they worked together at James Beard Award-winning restaurant Blue Hill at Stone Barns as chef de cuisine and senior captain, respectively. After hosting pop-up dinners in the St. Louis area under the name Rooster and the Hen, the Gallinas announced plans for Vicia in June. Keep an eye on social media for upcoming opportunities to try its vegetable-forward dishes like grilled tomato soup with a BLT tartine of pickled green tomatoes, tomato mayo and bacon for lunch and beef fat-roasted daikon with braised beef navel and yogurt for dinner. Vicia will serve lunch and dinner in the Cortex Innovation Community; both can be enjoyed in Vicia’s open dining area (enhanced by two walls of floor-to-ceiling windows) or covered outdoor seating. Natural materials and textures fill the space, including the bar's antique oak frame and Belgian blue stone bartop, as well as bleached white oak tabletops that accentuate the color and vibrancy of the food. The Gallinas aim to create a high-level experience for diners with the same intensity they had in New York – but still keep things rooted in the Midwest.

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viciarestaurant.com n ov em ber 2 0 1 6

VOTED BEST RIBS SINCE DAY ONE

DINE IN OR CARRY OUT 3106 Olive Street St. Louis, MO 63103 pappyssmokehouse.com 314.535.4340

HOURS: Mon. – Sat. 11 am – 8 pm* Sun. 11 am – 4 pm* *May close earlier if we sell out of food.

cb social house written by AnA Pierce

PhotogrAPhy by stArboArd & Port creAtive

SPRINGFIELD, MO. if you’ve said all springfield, Missouri, needs is another location

of city butcher and barbecue, you’re in luck – sort of. city butcher owners cody smith and Jeremy smith recently opened the doors to CB Social House, a sister restaurant located downtown. they serve up a butcher-centric, southern-inspired menu with nods to the barbecue joint, including a 42-ounce tomahawk rib-eye taken off the bone and plated to share. other dinner options include fried catfish, hot chicken, brisket and ribs. hand-cut fries, mashed potatoes, mac 'n' cheese and other sides can be ordered as individual portions or for the table. cb social house has a post-Prohibition-era feel and two fully stocked bars – one with a focus on American whiskey and bourbon and the other featuring tvs, darts and a lounge area. 417.368.0778, facebook.com/cbsocialhouse Inspired Local Food Culture

nov e mbe r 2 016

destination: bloomington, illinois |2|

|1|

road trip

WRITTEN By LIZ MILLER

Start off the holiday season at the 23rd-annual The Baby Fold’s Festival of Trees in Bloomington, Illinois, from Nov. 18 to 20. The three-day festival benefits The Baby Fold, which helps children with severe emotional and behavioral disorders and their families. The festival features a range of family-friendly activities like the Gingerbread Village, highlighting a collection of creative takes on the classic cookie. Visit festoftrees.org to learn more.

|3|

eat

epiphany farms restaurant

|4|

anju above

Located in downtown Bloomington, Epiphany Farms Restaurant serves seasonally inspired eats made with produce, herbs and meat raised at its two local farms. One is just 10 minutes from the restaurant, and guests can request tours to learn more about the farm’s sustainable agricultural practices and humane animal husbandry. Menu items include classic comfort foods like fried chicken with carrots, roasted knob onion, mashed potatoes and sweet corn, as well as elevated dishes like lamb shank with herb gremolata, peperonata, roasted fingerling potatoes and squash in a raisin demi-glace.

Right above Epiphany Farms Restaurant sits Anju Above, serving small plates that are inspired by cuisine from across the globe and made with local ingredients. In one sitting you can get a taste of Japan with pork belly ramen, sushi and nigiri, roasted mushroom steamed buns and shareable banchan, or savor a slice of Italy with Neapolitan-style pizza or the Tuscan kale salad. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner and offers separate menus for both. Don’t skip dessert – the silken tofu donut and Korean-inspired shaved ice are must trys.

309.828.2323, epiphanyfarms.com

| 2 | PHOTO COurTesy anju abOve

309.828.8704, facebook.com/anjuaboverestaurant

| 1 | PHOTO COurTesy blOOmingTOn visiTOrs bureau

ephesus restaurant

rosie’s

Open for lunch and dinner, Ephesus Restaurant serves a diverse selection of Turkish and Mediterranean cuisine. Stop in for a light lunch of red lentil soup and kisir, a crushed-wheat salad. Standout dinner entrées include a variety of kebabs served with rice pilaf, as well as lahana dolmasi, cabbage leaves stuffed with ground beef, lamb, rice, onions and herbs and served with tomato and yogurt sauce. For dessert, opt for baklava or kunefe, a cheese pastry soaked in a sweet syrup, paired with a piping-hot cup of Turkish coffee.

A visit to Rosie’s comes with a side of history: More than a hundred years ago, the building housed Abraham Lincoln’s law office during his days working in Bloomington. The downtown spot is known for its burgers and pizza, served for lunch and dinner, and sandwiches, which are only offered during lunch service. Try the ham and apple sandwich with smoked Gouda on a pretzel roll or the classic Reuben with corned beef, Swiss, sauerkraut and Thousand Island dressing on rye. Pastas, including crab ravioli and lobster macaroni, are only served during dinner service.

309.585.0514, ephesusrestaurant.us

309.827.7019, rosies-pub.com

| 3 | PHOTO COurTesy ePHesus resTauranT

| 4 | PHOTO COurTesy blOOmingTOn visiTOrs bureau

Since 2013, Destihl Brewery has been brewing a diverse selection of beers in Bloomington. Favorites include the Leipzig-style gose, Here Gose Nothin’, and Dosvidanya, a Russian imperial stout. The brewery doesn’t serve beer on site, but you can tour its brewing facility. Head to nearby Destihl Restaurant & Brew Works in Normal, Illinois, to try its beers and elevated pub fare. 877.572.7563, destihl.com | 5 | PHOTO COurTesy desTiHl brewery

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|6|

sleep

local gems destihl brewery

|5|

white oak vineyards

vrooman mansion

hyatt place

White Oak Vineyards in nearby Carlock, Illinois, grows 11 wine grape varieties on 12 acres of land. The winery’s tasting room is housed inside a remodeled log cabin and features a wraparound porch with picturesque views of the vineyards, pond and countryside. Be sure to try the Bernese Red made with Frontenac grapes, which took home a silver medal from the Illinois State Fair Wine Competition in 2013.

Built in 1869, the Vrooman Mansion is named for Carl and Julia Scott Vrooman, who inherited the home from her parents in 1923. Carl served as assistant secretary of agriculture under President Woodrow Wilson; Adlai Stevenson was one of Julia’s uncles. Guests are treated to a seasonal breakfast: This fall, pecan-pumpkin waffles and an apple cider-glazed sausage will be served.

The newest hotel in the Bloomington-Normal area is Hyatt Place, located in the heart of the vibrant Uptown Normal district and within walking distance of dozens of shops and restaurants. Stroll through Illinois State University’s campus, or catch a bus from Uptown Station to nearby Miller Park Zoo. The hotel offers free Wi-Fi and breakfast and features an indoor swimming pool and 24-hour gym.

309.828.8816, vroomanmansion.com

309.376.3027, whiteoakvineyardsinc.com

| 7 | PHOTO COurTesy blOOmingTOn visiTOrs bureau

309.454.9288, bloomingtonnormal.place.hyatt.com

n eo o

katie liu-sung

chef-owner, chewology dumpling & dough

q&A

Written by bethany christo

KAnSAS CITY. the name says it all. Chewology Dumpling & Dough is chef-owner Katie Liu-sung’s take on dough-based staples of east asian cuisine – specifically chinese, Japanese, Korean and taiwanese – inspired by her birth in taiwan, upbringing in Los angeles and relocation to Kansas city. Liu-sung learned to roll dumplings at age 3 and worked her way into her family’s home kitchen when she was in second grade; she estimates the fast-casual restaurant has been in formulation for at least 10 years. Located in the ground floor of the newly renovated corrigan building in the crossroads arts District, chewology will feature a prominent wooden table behind the order counter for customers to watch Liu-sung and her chefs roll, fill and fold jiaozi (chinese boiled dumplings), gyoza (Japanese pan-fried dumplings) and jjin mandu (Korean steamed dumplings). the menu will incorporate additional dough items: noodles such as Japanese ramen, steamed and pan-fried buns, and scallion pancakes rolled with beef, as well as desserts like hong Kong-style egg tarts and Japanese chiffon cakes. chewology is scheduled to open January 2017.

chewologykc.com

photography by zach bauman

Why did you decide to focus on dumplings? it started because my husband was bringing my cooking in for his lunch, and his coworkers would see it, and they were like, “ask her to cook more; hey, ask her to cook some extra for us, and we’ll pay her.” so it was catering of sorts: We’d do meal plan-type lunches for them, and my husband would bring 15 lunchboxes to work each morning. the dumplings were the things that they always loved and asked for the most, so that’s why we focused on dumplings for my future restaurant. How are your dumplings unlike those already in Kansas City? there are a lot of great asian restaurants in Kansas city that serve great dumplings, but they don’t have a lot of variety. our idea is to fill dumplings with rotating seasonal ingredients. but we’re more than dumplings: We have a hand-rolled scallion pancake that’s kind of like a flatbread, with layers of freshly chopped scallions and slow-cooked beef, cilantro and sweet bean sauce. the one item that doesn’t fit perfectly with the dumplings-and-dough theme is the rice bowl. Lu rou fan means braised pork rice: it’s basically minced pork belly – lots of chopping – for a nice fatty texture that we braise in soy, rice wine and other spices to give it a sweeter flavor. it’s my husband’s favorite and also the no. 1 food in taiwan, so we knew we had to put it on the menu. even though i only spent a third of my life there, it’s home, and it’s close to my heart. What’s an example of a seasonal dumpling you’ll be offering? Daikon is really sweet in the wintertime, and my mom has this great recipe i ate growing up for a jiaozi with daikon, cilantro, minced pork, soy sauce and sesame seasoning – that’s a personal favorite. Why did you want the open kitchen to center around the dumpling-making process? it brings me back to my childhood memories of learning and making asian dumplings. We would make them together, all sitting and folding together. my 8-year-old daughter learned when she was 3 years old, just like i did. a lot of kids from chinese and taiwanese families learn how to fold dumplings from a very early age. it’s a generational thing for me, especially seeing my daughter go through the process to learn. i think food is something that’s very special – it’s one of the few works of art that requires the audience to complete it. that makes you connect with the chef more and creates a special bond.

Local Field-to-Glass Distillery Bourbons | Corn Whiskeys | Cordials Available @ all major liquor stores in MO woodhatspirits.com | 573-835-1000

Inspired Local Food Culture

nov e mbe r 2 016

IN SeASoN: FAll To eArlY WINTer

Wild MushrooMs

WrITTen by nAnCy sTIles

phoTogrAphy by byjeng/IsToCK

Mushrooms can be found throughout the year, but colder weather is ideal for hearty dishes paired with earthy wild mushrooms. Chefs use many varieties, from lobster to oyster, to enhance savory dishes.

soup ColUMBIA, Mo. The forest mushroom blend pops up in several places on the menu at Brasserie by Upper Crust in Columbia, Missouri. “They’re a great culinary sponge,” says chef de cuisine peter hawkins. “They’re going to absorb whatever you’re cooking with. Mushrooms also have an umami flavor to them, and that special flavor hits you on the back of the palate.” hawkins sautés mushrooms including shiitake, cremini, trumpet and morel, depending on the season, with a light sherry and finishes them with butter and fresh chives. It’s a perfect accompaniment to brasserie’s signature Coque au Cidre made with honey-lavender hen, potato-apple mash and local cider. There’s also a warming golden mushroom and steak soup on the menu this winter made with a cream base, mushrooms, sherry, saffron and beef tenderloin; in the spring, look for whole fried morels with house garlic butter.

573.874.3033, brasserieuc.com

CHeF’S TIP “The biggest thing about mushrooms is they're a great substitute for meat – marinated, grilled and served as the main. It's a great way to extend whatever flavor you cook them with.” –Peter Hawkins, chef de cuisine, Brasserie by Upper Crust

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pasta

curry

CreVe CoeUr, Mo. Wild mushrooms are Aaron

KANSAS CITY. Lulu’s Thai Noodle Shop serves four

baggett’s favorite ingredient to play with. luckily, he gets to do that a lot in his position as executive chef of EdgeWild Bistro & Tap in Creve Coeur, Missouri. “The mushrooms [available now] have that fall-winter, warm and hearty feel to them,” baggett says. “I’ve done a lot of heavy ones over the last couple years. This year, I’ll probably head more into the oyster [mushroom] range or if we can get lobster [mushrooms] for fun – something a little more delicate, where we can chill off its subtle side with a chicken or duck dish.” baggett says the best way to get acquainted with different types of mushrooms is to cook them all the same way so it’s easier to understand the range of flavors and textures. “If you like sautéed mushrooms with garlic on top of your steak, just bring another mushroom to the party,” he says. “When you see something you haven’t had before, to me, that’s what’s exciting.” This fall, look for pappardelle pasta with shiitake, oyster and portobello mushrooms; pancetta; and parmesan finished with truffle oil. If you’re lucky, baggett will get his hands on some bright-red lobster mushrooms or even king oyster mushrooms, which have thick stems and can reach 8 inches in length.

curries at its locations in Kansas City’s Crossroads Arts District and Westwood, Kansas. The wild mushroom curry is not for the faint of heart: It’s the only variety that can’t be made mild. A base of coconut milk is heated in a wok; curry paste, spices, a desired protein – chicken, flank steak, tofu, shrimp, scallops or Chinese-roasted barbecue pork – and mushrooms are then added and served over jasmine rice. The red curry features portobello, straw, button and shiitake mushrooms, plus a medley of other fresh vegetables. “The curry is a bit spicy for some guests,” says chef-owner Malisa Monyakula, “but we can add more heat if desired, [like] fresh Thai chiles for anyone ordering ‘blazing.’” Monyakula says the wild mushroom curry is a customer favorite and promises the heat will get your endorphins going.

314.548.2222, edgewildbistro.com

multiple locations, lulusnoodles.com

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q&A

daniel ernce chef, progress

story and photography By ana pierce

healthy lean meats

SPRInGFIeLD, Mo. daniel ernce

is an up-and-comer in the springfield, Missouri, food scene. along with cassidy rollins and Michael “Jersey” schmitz, he’s introduced a new pop-up dining experience. if you’re looking for a once-in-a-lifetime meal in southern Missouri, go to this month’s Progress dinner. and then, you'll have to attend the next one, and the one after that, as ernce prepares an entirely different menu – and experience – with each. past menus include the high-end Low country, which featured a course of oxtail dumplings with caramelized soubise and chives, and the time and place dinner, where roasted onions with scallion ash, smoked-onion cream and bacon was one of seven courses served. How did you get your start in the industry? Food has always been an interest of mine, but i went to school to be a writer; i wanted to help chefs write cookbooks. i sort of stumbled into the industry via an internship at [marketing firm] Food iQ, where i work now, and got the opportunity to work with some incredibly talented people with Michelin-starred, world-class backgrounds. My day to day at work is always changing, so i think that has helped play a role in the formation of a pop up. What has the pop-up process been like? i’m not sure there’s been a single part that hasn’t been challenging. this is the hardest thing i’ve ever done. From the planning to coordinating to marketing – it’s all tough, especially when it’s not your full-time job. But in the end, being able to provide good, creative food and a new type of dining experience really makes it all worth it. How do you, Rollins and Schmitz work together at Progress? since i’m young – 23 – i lean on them for their overall industry experience and knowledge. cassidy has a great eye and vision for turning a “space” into a “restaurant.” she’s smart and charming and is incredibly talented behind the bar. Jersey has a wealth of wine and spirit knowledge that’s really robust, and he’s just as capable in a front-of-house capacity as he is in the back of the house. he’s got a really big, wild, creative mind and the tools and experience to make his ideas come to life. Me, i just try to push us forward while keeping a singular, united vision and focus for whatever we’re working on. Each Progress has a different menu, but what’s your unifying approach? i always try to make balanced food, whether that be the flavor balance of a single bite or a seven-course menu, balancing light and heavy courses, acidic and more rich courses – things like that. What’s your plan for Progress? We didn’t start progress with an end goal. progress is something we felt like we needed to do in order to showcase our different abilities, as well as bring a new layer of dining to the springfield scene. We’re trying to impact the dining culture and the way people think about food. We’re doing our best to make a difference, one pop up at a time.

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Regional RestauRant guiDe As proud supporters of Feast Magazine, we encourage you to visit any of these fine establishments. From fine dining to fast casual to local wineries, there is an array of experiences to choose from, so support and eat local!

2nd Shift Brewing 1601 Sublette Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.669.9013 2ndshiftbrewing.com

Café Ventana 3919 W. Pine Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.531.7500 cafeventana.com

Drunken Fish multiple locations drunkenfish.com

King & I 3157 S. Grand Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.771.1777 kingandistl.com

4 Hands Brewing Co. 1220 S. Eighth St. St. Louis, MO 314.436.1559 4handsbrewery.com

Castelli’s Restaurant at 255 3400 Fosterburg Road Alton, IL 618.462.4620 castellis255.com

Duke’s 2001 Menard St. St. Louis, MO 314.833.6686 dukesinsoulard.com

Klondike Café at Montelle Vineyard 201 Montelle Drive at MO Highway 94 Augusta, MO 636.228.4464 montelle.com

21st Street Brewers Bar 2017 Chouteau Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.241.6969 21stbrew.com

C. Frogs 3935 W. 69th Terrace Prairie Village, KS 913.601.5250 cfrogs.com

Eleven Eleven Mississippi 1111 Mississippi Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.241.9999 1111-m.com

LaChance Vineyards 12237 Peter Moore Lane De Soto, MO 636.586.2777 lachancevineyards.com

Aya Sofia 6671 Chippewa St. St. Louis, MO 314.645.9919 ayasofiacuisine.com

Charlie Hooper’s 12 W. 63rd St. Kansas City, MO 816.361.8841 charliehoopers.com

Farmers Gastropub 2620 S. Glenstone Ave. Springfield, MO 417.864.6994 farmersgastropub.com

Lew’s Grill & Bar 7539 Wornall Road Kansas City, MO 816.444.8080 lewsgrillandbar.com

BaiKu Sushi Lounge 3407 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.896.2500 baikustl.com

Chaz on the Plaza at the Raphael Hotel 325 Ward Parkway Kansas City, MO 816.802.2152 raphaelkc.com

Fratelli’s Ristorante 2061 Zumbehl Road St. Charles, MO 636.949.9005 fratellisristorante.com

Mai Lee 8396 Musick Memorial Drive Brentwood, MO 314.645.2835 maileestl.com

Bella Vino Wine Bar & Tapas 325 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.3434 bellavinowinebarstl.com

Cleveland-Heath 106 N. Main St. Edwardsville, IL 618.307.4830 clevelandheath.com

Gallagher’s Restaurant 114 W. Mill St. Waterloo, IL 618.939.9933 gallagherswaterloo.com

The Muddled Pig Gastropub 2733 Sutton Blvd. Maplewood, MO 314.781.4607 themuddledpig.com

Best Regards Bakery & Café 6759 W. 119th St. Overland Park, KS 913.912.7238 makethemsmile.com

Cork & Barrel Chop House and Spirits 7337 Mexico Road St. Peters, MO 636.387.7030 corkandbarrel.com  Coming in December

Hendricks BBQ 1200 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.8600 hendricksbbq.com

Olympia Kebob House & Taverna 1543 McCausland Ave. Richmond Heights, MO 314.781.1299 olympiakebobandtavern.com

Bissell Mansion Restaurant & Dinner Theatre 4426 Randall Place St. Louis, MO 314.533.9830 bissellmansiontheatre.com

Corner Restaurant 4059 Broadway Kansas City, MO 816.931.4401 thecornerkc.com

Herbie’s 8100 Maryland Ave. Clayton, MO 314.769.9595 herbies.com

Pappy’s Smokehouse 3106 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.535.4340 pappyssmokehouse.com

The Blue Owl Restaurant and Bakery 6116 Second St. Kimmswick, MO 636.464.3128 theblueowl.com

Diablito’s 3761 Laclede Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.644.4430 diablitoscantina.com

Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. multiple locations kaldiscoffee.com

Point Labaddie Brewery 1029 Thiebes Road Labadie, MO 314.566.9346 grimmstreebrewing.com

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PWPizza 2017 Chouteau Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.241.7799 pwpizza.com

Syberg’s multiple locations sybergs.com

Q39 1000 W. 39th St. Kansas City, MO 816.255.3753 q39kc.com

TeaspoonsCafe 2125 S. Route 157 Edwardsville, IL 618.655.9595 teaspoonscafe.com

Ramon’sElDorado 1711 St. Louis Road Collinsville, IL 618.344.6435 ramonseldorado.net

TrattoriaGiuseppe 5442 Old State Route 21 Imperial, MO 636.942.2405 trattoria-giuseppe.com

Ravanelli’sRestaurant 3 American Village 26 Collinsport Drive Granite City, IL | Collinsville, IL 618.877.8000 | 618.343.9000 ravanellis.com

TriumphGrill 3419 Olive St. St. Louis MO 314.446.1801 triumphgrill.com

Sanctuaria 4198 Manchester Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.535.9700 sanctuariastl.com

TrufflesandButchery 9202 Clayton Road St. Louis, MO 314.567.9100 todayattruffles.com

TheSchlaflyTapRoomand SchlaflyBottleworks 2100 Locust St. 7260 Southwest Ave. St. Louis, MO | Maplewood, MO 314.241.2337 schlafly.com

TwistedTreeSteakhouse 10701 Watson Road St. Louis, MO 314.394.3366 twistedtreesteakhouse.com

SoT 1521 Grand Blvd. Kansas City, MO 816.842.8482 sotkc.com

UrbanChestnutBrewingCo. 3229 Washington Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.222.0143 urbanchestnut.com

SouthtownPub 3707 S. Kingshighway Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.832.9009 southtownpub.net

VindeSet 2017 Chouteau Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.241.8989 vindeset.com

StoneHillWinery 1110 Stone Hill Highway Hermann, MO 573.486.2221 stonehillwinery.com

TheWell 7421 Broadway Kansas City, MO 816.361.1700 waldowell.com

SugarCreekWinery 125 Boone County Lane Defiance, MO 636.987.2400 sugarcreekwines.com

WoodCask 10332 Manchester Road Kirkwood, MO 314.858.1085 thewoodcask.com

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The Far East just got a lot closer. S t. Louis’ newest Asian restaurant invites you to take a unique culinary excursion through a continent of exceptional dishes.

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letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s get fizzy-cal

Everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s buzzing about SoT in Kansas City thanks to drinks like the Carbonated Cocktail, made with gin, Aperol, watermelon, cucumber, dill and lemon on p. 34. photography by anna petrow

barley wine whiskey on trend

from brews

to booze WRitten by nancy stiles

photogRaphy by albeRto chagas

it’s common for distilleries to age their spirits in barrels sourced from local breweries, and some breweries also use the returned barrels to add flavor to their beers. But local distilleries are now making spirits out of beer; the resulting whiskeys have hop notes along with classic barrel-aged flavors, citrus and floral aromas.

Prairie Pinga

This is a variation on the classic Caipirinha. Try experimenting with various local berries, melon and even herbs. Recipe by Ryan Maybee, co-foundeR, J. RiegeR & co. distilleRy seRves | 1 |

2 2 ½ 2 to 3

oz J. Rieger & Co. Distillery Left For Dead tsp sugar lime, quartered pieces seasonal fruit ice

| preparation | combine all ingredients except ice in a cocktail shaker, and shake vigorously. pour into a highball with ice, and serve.

The first legal distillery in the Ozarks since Prohibition, Copper Run Distillery in Walnut Shade, Missouri, previously released a spirit made with excess beer from Mother’s Brewing Co. in Springfield, Missouri. The distillery used the brewery’s Sandy beer for an experimental Hopped Wheat Whiskey. Sandy was double-distilled in Copper Run’s direct-fire copper pot still and aged in new, deep-char Missouri oak for two years. With aromas of orange blossom, grapefruit zest and pine, the medium-bodied whiskey had a long finish with a touch of hop bitterness, plus cedar and blackberry. The Hopped Wheat Whiskey was a one-batch special release, but Copper Run founder Jim Blansit says another collaboration with Mother’s will be available this fall: Foggy Notion Barley Wine Whiskey made with the brewery’s Foggy Notion barley wine. 417.587.3456, copperrundistillery.com 417.862.0423, mothersbrewing.com

hopskey ST. LOUIS. Steve Neukomm of Spirits of St. Louis – the

distillery branch of Square One Brewery & Distillery in Lafayette Square – has been making Hopskey, a hop-infused whiskey, for the past four or five years. The experiment started a year earlier, when alcohol was run through the still once and then infused with hops using the still’s gin basket, which normally contains that spirit’s botanicals. It came out as sort of a hop schnapps, which was really only good in a Martini. The next year, Neukomm and his team tried it again, but afterward, they aged it in one of their whiskey barrels for six months. “We pulled it out, and it was like, ‘Oh, my god – we made magic!’” Neukomm says with a laugh. The key is using the gin basket, which transfers only the hops’ aroma to the whiskey, not its bitterness or flavor. Spirits of St. Louis uses Sterling hops, which are more citrus-based and very aromatic, making it perfect to accentuate the citrus notes in an Old Fashioned. A pumpkin-ale whiskey was released this fall, too: Neukomm and his brewers had a ton of Square One Pumpkin Ale left over from last year, so they added pumpkin pie spice and the skin and inside wall of pumpkins to the whiskey, ran it all through the still and aged it for almost a year leading up to its October debut. 314.231.2537, squareonebrewery.com

still modern whiskey ST. LOUIS. In St. Louis, distillery StilL 630 is using Modern Brewery’s bière de garde and distilling it into StilL Modern Whiskey as part of the distillery’s Brewery Collaboration Series. The beer was distilled and then aged in new oak barrels to create a floral aroma and “candied taste.” Modern Brewery also aged the bière de garde in StilL 630’s RallyPoint rye barrels to produce another version, Cambre de Garde, which is on tap at the brewery’s tasting room in the Kings Oak neighborhood of St. Louis. StilL 630 only made 306 bottles of Modern Whiskey, and at press time, founder David Weglarz expected to be sold out by November.

314.513.2275, still630.com modernbrewery.com

left for dead KANSAS CITY. This year, J. Rieger & Co. Distillery teamed up with Boulevard Brewing Co., both based in Kansas City, to produce a spirit distilled from leftover beer called Left for Dead. It’s no coincidence that J. Rieger head distiller Nathan Perry worked at Boulevard for five years. Perry used Boulevard beer that was past its prime or left over from a test batch, for example, to use as the base for the distillate; he’s made one that had 22 different beers in it, including Early Riser Coffee Porter, and another that was only made with The Calling IPA. All batches are distilled to 89 proof as a nod to Boulevard’s founding in 1989. The first batch of Left for Dead was released in June at area bars, restaurants and stores, but look for new releases; each batch is numbered and features a distinct flavor profile.

jriegerco.com 816.474.7095, boulevard.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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where we’re drinking Check out what we’re sipping at bars, restaurants, breweries, wineries and coffee shops.

sot

WRITTEn By JEnny VERGARA

kansas city. Ron Berg opened sot, a glamorous new

bar named for its location south of Truman Road, in the building next door to his photography studio and event space to attract more folks to Grand Boulevard. Bar and general manager Erik Mariscal sets the tone with his playful drink menu. His cocktails run from simple to serious, with a bit of science, magic and molecular gastronomy mixed in.

photography by anna petroW

Take his The Interactive Dirty Martini that transforms how the “dirty” is delivered. Made with J. Rieger & Co. Distillery gin and Dolin dry vermouth, it features centrifuged Castelvetrano “olives” that guests poke open with a toothpick inside their glass. Try the Carbonated Cocktail, a batched-and-bottled drink made with gin, Aperol, watermelon, cucumber, dill and lemon. The snack menu highlights lamb meatballs, crawfish toast and cauliflower served with charred chile aïoli. 816.842.8482, sotkc.com

lake creek winery Written by Sarah Kloepple photography by JacKlyn Meyer

MARTHASVILLE, MO. brothers Ken and Mike

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Flesch opened Lake Creek Winery this June atop a picturesque hill in Marthasville, Missouri. they transformed a circa-1860 farmhouse into a tasting room and restaurant with a spacious outdoor patio. the vineyard boasts 3 acres of Vignoles and 2 acres of crimson cabernet, a hybrid varietal that’s a cross between norton and cabernet Sauvignon grapes. the lake creek team gathered its first harvest of Vignoles, which was planted in 2014, at the end of august. the Flesch brothers brought on executive chef ed russo to create a full dining experience. the german-influenced menu includes a hearty sausage skillet with housemade beer mustard and companion pretzel rolls and a large charcuterie board with smoked and cured meats and artisan cheeses. all of that, though, might not beat lake creek’s picture-perfect views of the gorgeous, 24-acre lake on a neighboring property and idyllic rolling hills.

Radius Brewing Co. opened two-and-a-half years ago – the city’s first brewery since prohibition. Despite that (or maybe because of it), radius was welcomed with a line out the door on its opening day in 2014. Jeremy “J.J.” Johns, a homebrewer, and Justin “gus” bays, a professionally trained chef, hatched plans for radius in 2012, brought on general manager chad Swift the next year and eventually brought the microbrewery and brewpub to existence. radius’ 3-barrel system is prominently on display in the center of the brewpub. popular beers include the heavy-bodied porter, a robust american variety with hints of coffee, toffee and chocolate. rumor has it, an american ipa, is another one of its best-sellers. the menu features artisan salads, sandwiches, brick-oven pizzas and dinner items such as steaks and pasta.

636.242.2036, lakecreekwinery.com

620.208.4677, radiusbrewing.com

radius brewing co. Written by Sarah Kloepple

photography by iMDeSigngroup.coM

EMPORIA, KS. about 100 miles west of Kansas city is emporia, Kansas, where

N eO O

stl q&A

justin saffell co-owner, foeder crafters of america WRITTEn By VALERIA TURTURRO KLAMM

O’FALLON, MO. Justin Saffell

(pictured left) and Matt Walters founded Foeder Crafters of America almost two years ago in O’Fallon, Missouri, making them the first-ever U.S. manufacturers of foeders (pronounced foo-ders). The giant oak fermentation vessels allow oxygen to slowly enter beer so it matures and develops at a steadier pace compared to smaller barrels. Saffell and Walters have been enjoying healthy business thanks to the popularity of craft beers – particularly sour beers – as well as the support of one of their friends and first customers, Cory King of Side Project Brewing in Maplewood, Missouri. “If Cory likes it, then I think we’re doing a good job,” Saffell says. To wit, Side Project’s upcoming expansion in Maplewood will include seven foeders from Foeder Crafters by the end of the year. Saffell and Walters now supply foeders to 40 states as well as Canada, Australia, Hong Kong and Brazil. This year, the company will produce about 150 foeders, ranging in size from 7 to 250 barrels, plus a dozen coolships (stainless steel vessels for fermenting beer).

314.397.3872, foedercrafters.com

PHOTOgRAPHy By J. POLLACK PHOTOgRAPHy

How did you two get into business together? I was in corporate and legal services for a while before I started a small brewery [Heavy Riff Brewing Co.] in St. Louis with some partners. That’s where Matt and I met – we designed the bar together at Heavy Riff and had fun working together. There’s no one else I would have propositioned with the idea of starting this business. It was Matt Walters or bust for me. Where did your interest in foeders come from? I was trying to source equipment for the brewery and quickly found it was like finding hen’s teeth. I wanted to make foeders accessible to any brewer who wanted one at an affordable price. Being in the brewery business, you know how breweries struggle, so we wanted to make an affordable product that was made in America. How did you learn to make foeders? We learned our craft almost entirely by trial and error. We did some computer modeling and lots of experimentation. What makes your foeders unique? We are the only builder of foeders in the U.S. Most are built with French oak, but we use Missouri white oak. We have engineered finger joints into our staves, which provide better stability; we have basically totally Americanized the foeders. From there, we’re open to whatever the brewers want to do – they tell us what they want to do on their first or their fifth batch, if they are going to make an oak-forward stout or old ale first and then use the foeder for a sour. Everything we do is custom made. What local breweries use your foeders? Side Project Brewing and Heavy Riff Brewing Co. in the St. Louis area; Piney River Brewing Co. in Bucyrus, Missouri; Martin City Brewing Co. in Kansas City; and Wichita Brewing Co. in Wichita, Kansas, are a few. We delivered two foeders to The Schlafly Tap Room in September, as they’re starting their sour-beer program again. Schlafly is the brewery that got me into craft beer in the first place, so we’re excited to be involved with those guys.

Inspired Local Food Culture

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Vermouth Story and recipe by Matt Seiter photography by Jonathan gayMan

Tropical cockTail SerVeS | 1 |

1¼ ¾ ¾ 2

oz dry vermouth oz maraschino liqueur oz Marie Brizard Crème de Cacao White dashes orange bitters ice orange peel (for garnish)

| preparation | in a cocktail shaker with ice, combine all ingredients except garnish. Shake, and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. garnish with orange peel.

As seems to be the lasting (but welcome) trend in craft cocktails, what was old is new again. Ladies and gentlemen, let me reintroduce you to vermouth. Drinkers and bartenders alike are falling back in love with this supporting spirit. Vermouth is actually fortified wine; all bottles are at least 75 percent wine. A majority of vermouths are made from white wine – red (or sweet) vermouth, known as Italian vermouth, gets color from infused botanicals or the addition of caramel. The wine used is first infused, or aromatized, with various secret blends of herbs and spices. It’s then thinned out with the addition of a distilled spirit to raise the ABV to a shelf-stable percentage, usually 15 to 16 percent. From there, vermouths are left to rest to allow all the flavors to integrate completely and then stabilized through refrigeration. Because vermouth is primarily wine, it acts like wine when it is opened: It will oxidize, lose aroma and flavor, and start to take on the properties of vinegar. This deterioration can be stalled for a month or two by simply putting the opened bottle in the refrigerator. After 1 to 2 months, toss it, and get a new one.

For a red vermouth, I prefer Cocchi Vermouth di Torino. It has a nice balance of spices and isn’t overly cloying or overly viscous. Other brands that I typically lean toward are Dolin Rouge Vermouth de Chambéry and Quady Vya Sweet; for special occasions I’ll pull out the Carpano Antica Formula. For a dry vermouth (known as French vermouth), my go-to is Dolin Dry Vermouth de Chambéry. For bianco or blanc vermouths, there are only three on the market that I have tasted, and I find all work well in cocktails: Dolin Blanc Vermouth de Chambéry, Martini & Rossi Bianco and Cinzano Bianco. I prefer the Cinzano for sipping. As far as using vermouth, it’s common to drink it over ice or straight. Manhattans and Martinis are the two most iconic vermouth cocktails, but if you look through those old bar books, there are quite a few other great cocktails using it. I’ve included one such example here: the Tropical Cocktail, circa 1927.

Matt Seiter is co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild (USBG)’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program, author of The Dive Bar of Cocktail Bars, bar manager at BC’s Kitchen, and a bar and restaurant consultant.

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WINE

BLumenhOf vineyards and Winery’s 2013 CaBerneT sauvignOn written by Hilary HedGeS

provenance: dutzow, Missouri pairings: Pork porterhouse • Chili • Braised short ribs

There are very few wineries in the region that produce Cabernet Sauvignon from Missouri-grown grapes; Blumenhof Vineyards and Winery sources grapes from a vineyard just 3 miles east of the winery. this vintage was aged for more than a year in French oak barrels, adding smokiness, spice and a touch of vanilla. red fruit, cedar and herbal aromas lead to flavors of raspberry, plum and black pepper. it was bottled without filtration, a decision winemaker Mark blumenberg made in order to preserve its structure. it has a strong backbone, a full body and a nice tannin structure. blumenhof, which prides itself as “the most-awarded all-Missouri winery,” took home a silver medal for this wine at the 2016 Indy International Wine Competition. 636.433.2245, blumenhof.com Hilary Hedges is a former newsie whose passion for wine led her out of the newsroom and into the cellar. She is currently director of sales and marketing and assistant winemaker at Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City.

BEER

sChLafLy Beer’s COffee sTOuT WrITTen By ryan nICkelSon

style: Stout with cold-brew coffee (5.7% abV) pairings: Smoked meats • Triple-crème cheese

• a warm brownie with vanilla ice cream

Schlafly Beer brews six seasonal beers every year, and each november i look forward to the release of its coffee stout. it’s a very traditional stout brewed with oats and the French roast from St. louis’ kaldi’s Coffee roasting Co. It’s not as heavy as the dark color and aromas of freshly ground coffee beans and dark chocolate would lead you to believe, so it pairs well with foods ranging from hearty stews and potpies to buttery cheeses and rich desserts. it’s the perfect beer to enjoy in front of a fire on a chilly night with a group of friends. 314.241.2337, schlafly.com Brothers Brandon and Ryan Nickelson are available to help with beer picks and pairing recommendations at their store, Craft Beer Cellar, a craft beer shop located at 8113 Maryland Ave. in Clayton, Missouri. To learn more, call 314.222.2444 or visit craftbeercellar.com/clayton.

SPIRIT

The Big O ginger Liqueur reserve written by Matt Sorrell

provenance: St. louis (17% abV) try it: Solo is the best way to enjoy this spirit.

314.239.5811, drinkthebigo.com When he’s not writing, Matt Sorrell can be found slinging drinks at Planter’s House in St. Louis’ Lafayette Square or bartending at events around town with his wife, Beth, for their company, Cocktails Are Go.

ks sTL q&a

gus griffin

president and chief executive officer, mgp ingredients written by Pete dulin

atchison, ks. MGP ingredients has been distilling in atchison, kansas, for 70 years, but earlier this year, it finally put out a product under its own niche brand: Till American Wheat Vodka. the vodka is already winning awards, and MGP also partnered with Sporting kansas City as the soccer club’s official vodka. the vodka is distilled in a multiple-column still with wheat grown only in kansas. MGP president and chief executive officer Gus Griffin shares the development of kansas’ newest spirit.

What does Till American Wheat Vodka taste like? in developing till, greater emphasis has been placed on wheat quality versus wheat variety, with the stipulation that the wheat be grown by kansas farmers. the result is a hint of creaminess and warmth that is superb in a mixed drink or on its own. Compared to other grains, wheat is sweeter, which makes it forward on the tongue. What does the name Till mean? when it came time to name this vodka, we chose the iconic tool that helped the people of the heartland build a life for themselves. the till is a symbol of our work ethic and the pride we take in a job well done. we say till vodka is “pride distilled” because we feel it’s the pride that goes into making it. it represents the values of the Midwest – honesty, integrity, hard work and passion. How was Till developed? the development of till Vodka was a total team effort involving experts across our organization. rather than relying on the skills and knowledge of a single master distiller, our approach is to apply the expertise of multiple talented individuals in developing and producing premium distilled spirits. till exemplifies the success of this approach. distilled by the proud men and women of atchison, till represents timeless and aspirational values, which are tied to the region that embodies them. it captures the hard work and passion of the people involved in making it and reflects the pride they take in doing their best. Tell us about some of the awards you’ve received. till received four prestigious awards within the six months following its release. the newest honor, a silver medal for outstanding quality and taste, was awarded at the new york World Wine and Spirits Competition in august. till received a silver medal this past March at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition, which is considered to be one of the most respected and influential spirits competitions of its type on an international scale. that honor occurred even before till’s release to the market later that spring. till also earned Beverage World magazine’s bevStar Gold award in the spirits category in May. we are proud of all of these awards. they speak volumes about the expertise and hard work that go into making this smooth premium vodka. they additionally serve as affirmation from objective experts as to the exceptionally outstanding qualities that till possesses. tillvodka.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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PhoToGraPhy By zaCh BauMan

The Big O Ginger liqueur has been a staple at local bars and restaurants for the past five years. the small-batch reserve – this year, about 40 cases were released – takes the subtle blend of ginger and various other spices and augments them even further by aging the liqueur in oak. the current run has been aged in Still 630 rye casks for 17 months. Previous incarnations did time in blanton’s and Four roses barrels, and there’s talk of future versions being aged in sherry butts (longer, more slender casks) or sauterne casks. the batches are small, so if you see the 375-mililiter bottles on the shelf, be sure to snag one.

n eo o

on the shelf : november picks

Eâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S SUMMIT E L N W O T N W DO c i r o t his

Outside X box

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raising the bar

Mix up your home bar with tools and tipples at Intoxicology in The Grove in St. Louis on p. 44. photography by cheryl waller

shop here

evolve juicery & paleo kitchen KANsAs CITY. Keep your figure lean as you head into the holidays with help from Evolve Juicery & Paleo Kitchen, a new clean-eating retail store in Kansas city’s crossroads arts district. Stock your pantry with meals and snacks that adhere to the three principles of the paleo diet: food containing no grain, no refined sugar and no dairy aside from ghee – clarified butter – infused with aromatics. founded in Kansas city by chef caleb Summers and health advisor Jason fechter, the company started as evolve paleo chef gourmet meal-delivery service that has morphed into a paleo-eats

pHotograpHy by anna petrow

empire with several retail outlets in five states. order your paleo meal plan online and pick it up in store, or stop by for a smoothie, cold-pressed juice or grab-and-go meal. items include buffalo chicken salad, grilled salmon with mango salsa, ready-to-cook beef, flavored ghee, pancake mix and beef jerky. don’t miss evolve’s best-selling paleo balls in flavors like mint-chocolate and pineapple-citrus. 913.971.0111, evolvepaleochef.com

progressive pumpkin scoop

written by nancy StileS

Holiday baking can be tricky. you can’t eyeball ingredients; that perfect pie crust is going to need a precise amount of flour. enter Dreamfarm’s levoons. (the name is an amalgam of level spoons.) after you’ve scooped up flour, spices or sugar, just squeeze the handle, and the scraper will swipe across and level the spoon’s contents for a perfect measurement. the set of four spoons comes in standard teaspoon and tablespoon measurements, nest for easy storage and snap apart for easy cleaning.

throw out that novelty jack-o’-lantern pumpkin scoop, and swap it for this sleek version from Progressive. Scoop and scrape seeds and pulp out of pumpkins, squash, melons and more. the stainless steel handle is easy for kids to grip, too, and it’s dishwasher safe.

pHotograpHy courteSy dreamfarm

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dreamfarm levoons

To learn more or to purchase the Levoons, visit dreamfarm.com. 40

written by Jenny Vergara

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To learn more or to purchase the scoop, visit culinarysupplies.org. pHotograpHy courteSy culinary SupplieS inc.

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n eo o

como q&A

kerri linder owner, columbia culinary tours WRITTEN BY SARAH KLOEPPLE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANTHONY jINSON

CoLUMBIA, Mo. Visitors and locals alike turn to Kerri Linder’s Columbia Culinary Tours to get a taste of the eclectic food scene in Columbia, Missouri. Linder (pictured below center), an accountant by trade, and her team have been guiding people through downtown Columbia’s restaurants and specialty food stores for two years via private and public tours. Choose from a morning brunch tour, an afternoon “Flavors” tour or a “Night on the Town” tour. Brunch tours include sweet stops at a coffee shop and a bakery, plus restaurants for more savory tastes. The afternoon and night tours feature three to four restaurants (popular stops include Glenn’s Cafe in the Tiger Hotel on Eighth Street and Eleven Eleven on Broadway) and a specialty shop such as Boone Olive Oil Co. or Craft Beer Cellar.

What inspired you to start Columbia Culinary Tours? My family and I have done culinary tours on vacations. After coming back from one in Charleston, South Carolina, I started thinking about the restaurants that are in Columbia and thought, “I think we’ve got enough great, locally owned places to put a tour together.” What do the chefs and owners typically have planned at each stop? There’s space reserved when we walk in, and then the owner, manager or chef, depending on the place we’re at, will come and talk to the group about what they’re eating. I leave it up to them – what they want to serve. Sometimes they do whatever the special is [that day]. If they’re getting ready to introduce a new menu, sometimes they’ll try out different dishes on the tours and get feedback. Or some of them will do their classics, what they’re known for. So it’s a nice variety. Why go on a culinary tour? Part of the tour experience is that as we walk from location to location, we talk about Columbia’s history, which started in the downtown area, and also point out different buildings of historical significance. [For] somebody who hasn’t been to Columbia before, it’s a great way to get a foundation of how our city started. I’ve had people who have been in Columbia over 50 years, and they’ve said they’ve learned things from the tour that they didn’t know before. What’s especially unique about the Columbia food scene? Being a college town, a lot of our [restaurant] owners moved to Columbia [because of the University of Missouri], and then they liked it and stayed… owners and chefs come from Charleston, Baltimore, all different parts of Missouri and the country and even Manchester, England. You have all those influences that have been brought downtown. Even though they’re all technically competitors, the downtown restaurants are really a community. Their philosophy is if they get people downtown, they all benefit. They buy produce from one another. They share employees. They do special events together. It’s really nice to see that community among the owners. What’s next? Because private tours have been increasing so much in the last couple of months, I’ve added another tour guide [totaling two tour guides plus myself]. We’ve been getting requests for guys’ night out or maybe people who are wanting to do a bachelor or bachelorette party that’s a little tamer than a traditional one. So that’s going to be his specialty. We’ve also had some interest in expanding to Rocheport, Missouri, which is right on the river. There’s a lot of history there and great, locally owned places, too. That’s probably our next step. 573.808.6880, columbiaculinarytours.com

Craft Cider WRITTEN BY BETHANY CHRISTO

In 2010, jeff Smith started Portland, Oregon’s first cidery and cider pub, Bushwacker Cider, which now offers more than 300 bottles of domestic and international cider. Five years later, he used his expertise to author Craft Cider about his “hobby gone mad.” Smith explores the styles of cider available in the U.S., as well as suggestions for choosing fruit to make your own – he recommends Manchurian crab apples as the “cider maker’s little secret,” plus Gravenstein and Arkansas Black. After a primer on equipment, Smith takes readers through the step-by-step process of pressing apples and making the juice into hard cider, complete with photos. He devotes the final third of the book to cooking with cider, including recipes for cider vinaigrette and cider fondue, as well as cocktails including an apple-brandy “Cide-Car” and a cider julep, all developed by Bushwacker’s kitchen and bar staff. By Jeff Smith countrymanpress.com

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intoxicology written by sarah Kloepple

ST. LOUIS. bar enthusiasts andy Foerstel

photography by Cheryl waller

and melissa pfeiffer opened Intoxicology this month because they were frustrated – they couldn’t find all their bar supplies in one convenient location. “st. louis’ cocktail culture is absolutely phenomenal,” Foerstel says. why don’t we have a place that has it all under one roof?” intoxicology is now that place: the bar-supply shop in the grove offers everything from spirits and bitters to barware, vintage glassware and cocktail books, with a focus on artisan products rather than big-box brands. the nearly 1,600-square-foot space is also available for tastings, classes and private events. Foerstel hails from local favorite K. hall Designs, while pfeiffer has 23 years of bartending experience at CJ muggs in webster groves, missouri. “i think [the store] will be a great addition to an already wonderful community of cocktail-lovers and talented folks,” Foerstel says. facebook.com/intoxicologystl

artisan products hilary’s holiday stuffing written by bethany Christo b

LAWRENCE, KS.

it started with a veggie burger, but Hilary’s now has an entire line of “free-from” products that fit the company’s standards of being convenient, certified organic, allergen-free (no gluten, dairy, eggs, soy, corn or nuts), sustainable and, most importantly, delicious. this thanksgiving, try the stuffing, which is made from organic millet, leafy greens, hemp seeds, celery, apple, parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme for a traditional flavor with minimally processed ingredients. For salads and veggie bowls, hilary’s offers dressings in fall-perfect flavors like apple-fennel, chile-lime vinaigrette and ranch-chia. breakfast and lunch choices include apple-maple veggie sausage or kimchi burgers, as well as game day-ready spicy mesquite bites with a barbecue flavor made from carrot and beets. 785.856.3399, hilaryseatwell.com photography Courtesy hilary’s

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chocolate chocolate chocolate seasonal pumpkin treats

written by sarah Kloepple

ST. LOUIS. Chocolate Chocolate Chocolate vice president Christina abel (whose parents founded

the company in 1981) recommends swapping out your pumpkin pie recipe for dessert-sized truffles this holiday season. the beloved st. louis-based chocolatier’s pumpkin pie candy varieties include pumpkin bark, pumpkin truffles and pumpkin caramels. all are made with all-natural milk chocolate, pumpkin pie flavorings and spices. the bark is handmade on a marble slab; milk chocolate is drizzled on top of the pumpkin layer and swirled. the pumpkin truffles come in both bite sizes and larger dessert sizes. abel adds that chocolate-lovers can tour the st. louis factory in the hill neighborhood at 5025 pattison ave. to see how the confections are created. 888.222.7710, chocolatechocolate.com photography by JaCKlyn meyer

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Inspired Local Food Culture

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By Lauren Reagan, Director of Hospitality The concept of Cork & Barrel Chop House and Spirits was born gathered around a kitchen table. Jill Ragan along with her husband, Joel and father Robert Ridgway, sat around the table talking and laughing about everything from business ventures to adorable puppies when Jill brought up the idea of purchasing a liquor store. This idea eventually blossomed into a farm-to-fork steakhouse with a focus on craft beer, fine wine and extraordinary spirits. After months of preparation, Cork & Barrel is scheduled to open mid-December 2016. “I’ve always wanted to own a restaurant. I want a place where people can come and relax, have a good meal, a couple of drinks and just unwind from their week without spending an arm and leg,” Jill said.

Jill knew she wanted the design concept to reflect her artisan food & drink concept. To do this she ordered a semi-truck full of 210 wine barrels, and had about as many design ideas! These wine barrels became a main theme of the restaurant’s interior that features handmade, industrial and Americana décor. Take a look around when you visit, you never know where a barrel piece may be lurking. “We don’t do anything the easy way around here. Every time I think of an idea we think of something else to go with it, it’s been a lot of fun.” says Jill. Our team also wanted to be sure the farm-to-fork, locally sourced menu offered a signature taste. That is when we decided to partner up with the Big Green Egg Company in Atlanta.

We strive to be artisans of food & drink. It’s a tall order, but it’s a challenge we’re up for. -- Jill Ragan

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“The Big Green Egg originated from the Mushikamado and the Japanese have been cooking this way for 1,700 years, so why not us?” said Joel, who grew up around these cookers while living in Japan as a child. Cork & Barrel is proud to be the first culinary partner with Big Green Egg in Missouri and our XXL cooker can cook up to 28 steaks at once. We also use it for chicken, fish, select side dishes and even some desserts. You could soon see the egg in action as we host specialized events on the patio this spring. No matter how exceptional the cooking equipment, it was crucial the person behind it to be state of the art. Our Executive Chef, Lee Gustin, has been in the industry for more than 35 years. His culinary skills have been showcased everywhere from country clubs to sporting venues, including our own St. Louis Blues. He and our culinary team will focus on giving multi-cultural flavors Homestyle flair with locally sourced items and cooking techniques. So about those steaks, we offer a variety of cuts and sizes for every appetite from an 8oz Tenderloin Filet to an 20oz Cowboy Ribeye. Whether you are partial to tenderloin, strip steak, sirloin, ribeye or prime rib we’ve got you covered and can even top them off with a wild mushroom demi glaze or gorgonzola steak butter.

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we got the beet

Say hello to soup season with this smoky golden beet number drizzled with roasted garlic cream on p. 50. photography by Sherrie CaStellano

healthy appetite

Smoky Golden Beet Soup STory, rEcIpE AND phoToGrAphy By ShErrIE cASTEllANo

Smoky Golden Beet Soup With RoaSted GaRlic cReam SErVES | 4 to 6 | Roasted GaRlic cReam (yields ¼ cup)

3 1 ¼ ¼

head garlic, roasted (minus 2 cloves, see below) Tbsp heavy cream tsp lemon zest tsp sea salt tsp freshly ground black pepper

smoky Golden Beet soup

medium golden beets, scrubbed clean, roots and leaves trimmed, medium dice 2 Tbsp olive oil, divided, plus more for garnish sea salt, to taste 1 medium yellow onion, small dice 3 stalks celery, small dice 1 carrot, small dice 3 cups vegetable broth ½ tsp smoked paprika 2 cloves roasted garlic green onions, sliced (for garnish) fresh parsley, chopped (for garnish) freshly ground black pepper, to taste

| preparation – roasted garlic cream | In a blender, combine 6 cloves (reserving 2 for soup) from garlic head, cream, lemon zest, salt and pepper. Blend until smooth. refrigerate until ready to serve.

| preparation – smoky golden beet soup | preheat oven to 425°F, and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Toss beets in 1 tablespoon olive oil and a pinch of salt, and spread evenly onto prepared baking sheet. roast for 30 to 35 minutes or until soft and tender, flipping halfway. As beets are roasting, heat remaining olive oil in a saucepan over low heat. Add onion, and sweat for 5 minutes. Add celery, carrot and a pinch of salt; stir, and sauté until tender. Add vegetable broth and smoked paprika, and set aside. remove beets from oven, and transfer to pot with soup. Add garlic cloves. Using an immersion blender, blend soup. (If using a stationary blender, you might need to do so in small batches.) Serve hot with a swirl of roasted garlic cream, green onions, parsley, more olive oil and lots of black pepper.

%PG

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With Roasted GaRlic cReam

Beets are either greatly loved or deeply hated. Even if you’re not a fan, I think this smoky golden beet soup recipe will change your mind. Beets are often described as too earthy, harsh or intense, but with just a little finesse, they can be bright and vibrant. Golden beets, a cousin of red beets, are slightly less bold and earthy, featuring a mellower, sweet and somewhat mild flavor. Soup, on the other hand, is generally loved by all. It has the power to soothe your soul, lift your spirits and make the cold go away. Soup is a bowl of comfort, versatile enough to be a snack, starter or even a full meal. This recipe was

developed with that flexibility in mind as we head into the holiday season. Its gorgeous orange hue and festive toppings make this a suitable option for your Thanksgiving table; forgo the toppings, and sip it at work for a nourishing, seasonally appropriate, not-so-sad desk lunch. The beet’s natural sweetness is first released in the roasting stage. Its depth of flavor is enhanced with the addition of sautéed mirepoix (a mixture of chopped onions, carrots and celery), which is blended with smoked paprika to round out the flavor. The roasted garlic cream shouldn’t be excluded: It adds just the right amount of acid and umami to the soup.

Sherrie Castellano is a health coach, photographer and private chef based in St. Louis. She writes and photographs the seasonally inspired vegetarian and gluten-free blog With Food + Love. She has contributed work to Driftless Magazine, Vegetarian Times, Go Gluten-Free Magazine, Food52 and Urban Outfitters, among others. You can find her hanging with her aviation-enthusiast husband, sipping Earl Grey tea, green juice and/or bourbon.

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myStery Shopper

Meet: HoneycoMb story and recipe by shannon weber photography by jennifer silverberg

local honey is a culinary favorite, but what about those honeycombs?

Acorn SquASh-honeycomb SAlAd With turmeric-hot honey VinAigrette

What Is It? honeycombs are the perfectly stacked hexagons where our beloved honeybees get their daily work done. the pattern is as efficient as it is beautiful: hexagons maximize space and use the least amount of wax needed to hold the largest amount of honey. some farmers harvest honey from combs and give them back to bees to reuse, while other combs are harvested and sold in blocks to eat. you can find honeycomb at natural grocery stores, usually in 6- to 12-ounce pieces.

serves | 4 | Vinaigrette

1 3 ½ ½ ¼

12-oz package honeycomb Tbsp Champagne vinegar cup olive oil tsp ground turmeric tsp ground cayenne pepper sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Salad

1½ 1

Tbsp plus 1 tsp olive oil, divided acorn squash, halved, deseeded, sliced into ½-inch thick crescents 1½ tsp brown sugar 1 tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp kosher salt 5 to 6 oz baby arugula ½ cup crumbled Gorgonzola cheese ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley leaves 6 Tbsp toasted, skinned, roughly chopped hazelnuts ¼ cup pomegranate arils 6 oz honeycomb sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

| preparation – vinaigrette | cut about 6 ounces off honeycomb, and transfer to lipped plate or bowl. after 10 minutes, plate will be filled with honey. Measure out 1½ teaspoons honey from comb, and set aside. reserve comb for salad. in a medium-sized lidded jar, add vinegar, olive oil, honey, turmeric and cayenne pepper; seal jar with lid, and shake to emulsify. season with salt and pepper, and transfer to refrigerator to allow flavors to blend.

| preparation – salad | preheat oven to 400°f, and brush a lipped sheet pan with 1 teaspoon olive oil. in a large bowl, add squash, and toss with remaining oil, brown sugar and turmeric. lay in a single layer on sheet pan, and sprinkle with kosher salt. roast for 30 to 40 minutes, until undersides are deep golden brown. remove, and allow to cool slightly. in a large bowl, toss arugula with a few tablespoons vinaigrette. divide onto 4 plates, and lay squash crescents over top. crumble cheese over each salad, and top with next 4 ingredients. chop honeycomb into bite-sized pieces, and mix into salads. drizzle with more vinaigrette, season with salt and pepper, and serve.

What Do I Do WIth It? liquid honey is perfect for recipes that use liquid best: baked goods, sauces and so forth. think of honeycomb as a solid, or as a thick spread; the thin, waxy channels give body to the honey and keep it in place, which makes it ideal for perching atop fruit or with cheese and crostini. try it this way with apples, pears, grapes or figs and an accompanying cheese like Maytag, brie, gorgonzola, aged cheddar or a soft goat’s-milk cheese. swirl it into yogurt with some toasted nuts, or crush a bit into your morning oatmeal. salads are a great way to get familiar with honeycomb: the glossy, chewy bits yield softly and provide a squidgy texture that you’ll fall in love with.

Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com, and her work has appeared on websites such as bon appétit, Serious Eats and America’s Test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes that the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and life.

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nov e mbe r 2 016

menu options

Roasted GReen Beans

story and recipe by Gabrielle deMichele photoGraphy by jennifer silverberG

Roasted GReen Beans With PeaRl onions and Bacon laRdons in Balsamic Glaze serves | 6 to 8 |

3 4

½ 2 2 ½ 2 ½

lbs green beans, washed, stem ends trimmed on a diagonal Tbsp grapeseed or vegetable oil, divided sea salt and freshly ground black pepper lb bacon, sliced into ¼-inch pieces bags frozen pearl onions (or 32 oz peeled fresh pearl onions) tsp Dijon mustard cup white balsamic vinegar Tbsp honey cup water

| preparation | preheat oven to 425°f. in a large bowl, toss green beans with 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil until thoroughly coated. add 3 large pinches salt and 1 pinch pepper, and toss once more. set aside. place 2 large rimmed baking sheets in preheated oven for 10 minutes. While baking sheets heat, in a large skillet over medium high heat, add remaining oil and bacon pieces. cover, and cook for 6 to 8 minutes or until bacon starts to crisp; add onions. turn heat up to medium-high and cook until onions are tender and develop color. add mustard, vinegar, honey and water, and stir to combine. cook until liquid reduces to form a thick syrupy sauce and onions are cooked through, about 15 minutes. season with salt and pepper to taste, and set aside. (Glaze will thicken slightly as it cools.) divide oiled green beans between preheated baking sheets, and transfer to oven to roast, 1 pan on top rack and other on bottom; roast for about 20 minutes. halfway through, switch placement of baking sheets, and cook until tender, about 4 more minutes or until beans are fork-tender. remove from oven, combine in a large bowl and toss with balsamic-coated bacon lardons and onions. season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve warm.

With Pearl OniOns and BacOn lardOns in Balsamic Glaze Cooking for a crowd this time of year can be a strain on oven space – not to mention our nerves. This fall-perfect side dish delivers great flavor thanks to the pearl onions, bacon lardons and a balsamic glaze. Green beans are great with poultry, pork or fish – this month, serve this recipe for Thanksgiving or with Turkey Day leftovers.

dish, and the bacon lardons add savory richness. Although most grocery stores stock balsamic glaze in the oil and vinegar aisle, it’s incredibly easy to make your own at home. This glaze recipe uses dark brown sugar, which imparts notes of caramel. By itself, the glaze can be used in both sweet and savory dishes – drizzle some on candied yams or leftover pecan pie for extra sweetness and depth of flavor.

The balsamic glaze brings both acid and sweetness to this

chef’s tip oFF tHe RACK. The green beans are divided between two large rimmed baking sheets and placed on separate racks in the

oven – one on the top rack and the other on the bottom rack. Halfway through the cook time, switch the sheets to ensure the green beans are evenly roasted.

the menu • Citrus-Fennel Salad • Sage- and Pear-Stuffed Game Hen • Roasted Green Beans With pearl onions and Bacon Lardons in Balsamic Glaze • Gougères • Raspberry Clafouti

LeARn moRe. In this class, you’ll learn how to peel fresh pearl onions and make your own balsamic glaze. You’ll also learn how to stuff and roast game hens; prepare savory, cheesy gougères; and make raspberry clafouti.

get hands-on: Join Feast Magazine and schnucks Cooks Cooking school on thu., nov. 17 at 6pm at the des Peres, Missouri, location, to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at schnuckscooks.com or call 314.909.1704.

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WATCH IT ON THESE NETWORKS

In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Saturdays and Sundays at 6:30pm.

In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Sundays at 5:30pm.

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Thursdays at 7pm and Saturdays at 4:30pm.

No Wines Left Behind! Feast TV will air in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) every Monday at 12:30pm.

Check your local listings to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:

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Inspired Local Food Culture

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sweet ideas

story and recipe by christy augustin photography by cheryl Waller

Savory Sweet-Potato SconeS Turn to p. 50 for a recipe for smoky golden beet soup with roasted garlic cream, a perfect pairing with these savory scones. Please note that you’ll need to roast one sweet potato prior to making the scones. yields | 10 scones |

3½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for flouring work surface 2 tsp kosher salt ¼ cup granulated sugar 1½ Tbsp baking powder ¾ tsp freshly ground black pepper ²⁄₃ cup cold, cubed unsalted butter ½ cup roasted sweet potato (from approximately 1 sweet potato) ¼ cup shredded Swiss cheese 2 Tbsp finely chopped fresh thyme 1¹⁄₃ cups buttermilk 1 large egg 2 Tbsp whole milk or heavy cream ¼ cup Parmesan cheese (optional)

| preparation | line a sheet tray with parchment paper, and set aside. in a large bowl, combine all dry ingredients. add cold butter cubes to dry mixture, and work by hand until a cornmeal consistency is achieved, with just a few pea-sized pieces. add sweet potato, swiss cheese and thyme, and toss, taking care to break up potato. gently stir in buttermilk with a wooden spoon; do not overmix or thoroughly moisten dough. it should be a little dry and shaggy. turn dough out onto a floured work surface, pat it down to about a 2-inch thickness and fold it in half. repeat twice, alternating fold direction. using plenty of flour, roll dough into a rectangle shape, 1-inch thick by 4½-inches wide by 14-inches long. spread rectangle out lengthwise in front of you, and using a chef’s knife or bench scraper, cut 5 equal pieces vertically. then, cut each vertical piece diagonally to form 2 triangles (for a total of 10 triangles across all 5 pieces). transfer to prepared sheet tray, and freeze for at least 15 minutes. preheat oven to 375°F. in a small bowl, whisk egg and whole milk together to create an egg wash. brush each scone with egg wash, and sprinkle with parmesan cheese if desired. bake for 20 minutes or more until lightly golden. if baking scones frozen for longer than 15 minutes, they might need to bake for up to 35 minutes.

Savory Sweet-Potato SconeS Reportedly originating in Scotland as early as the 1500s, scones are traditionally a lightly sweetened quick bread – any bread leavened with ingredients other than yeast or eggs – flavored with dried fruit and enjoyed with afternoon tea. At my bakery, Pint Size Bakery in St. Louis, we complicate the matter by adding a delicious amount of butter and creating a savory version for breakfast. As the biggest seller at the bakery, our savory scones are similar to biscuits in that we work butter into the flour to create a

more flaky texture. Buttermilk then tenderizes the gluten and provides a bit of tang. This recipe can be really versatile in flavor combinations: Think Cheddar-green onion, spinach-artichoke-Asiago, tomato-mozzarella-basil and bacon-blue cheese-caramelized onion. Made with sweet potatoes, which are in season through December, this savory scone recipe is simply the best I’ve ever had – and I hope you’ll agree.

Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. See more at pintsizebakery.com.

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Relax — We Make Gifting Easy! Take the stress out of your holiday shopping by finding great gifts for everyone on your list at vomFASS. Our gift collection is designed to offer you a wide variety of options with no fuss. So kick back and relax this year — we’ve got you covered! Perfect Gifts for Everyone on Your List: 9 Rare Cask Aged Spirits for the Scotch and Whiskey Lover 9 Enticing and Fun Liqueurs for the Taste - Maker 9 The Finest Culinary Oils and Balsamic Vinegars for the Home Cook 9 NEW Mustards and Delectable Deli Items for the Gourmet 9 Boutique Wines for the Connoisseur 9 Customizable Gift Options and Gift Sets for All

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It’s A Wonderful Death Interactive Comedy Murder Mystery

You are invited to attend the most enjoyable holiday party this year, hosted by George and Mary Bailey at the Bissell Mansion. The party soon turns to murder when the cantankerous Mr. Potter is found DEAD! With so many suspects in Bedford Falls, the culprit is difficult to find. Could it have been Uncle Billy, Harry Potter or Clarence, the Angel? And we can’t forget about Bert, the cop or Ernie, the cab driver. Come join the Baileys to find out “whodunnit.” Don’t miss out on this interactive holiday fun while enjoying a 4-course meal to DIE for! Make your reservation now by calling 314-533-9830. Bring this ad in for $10.00 off per person Valid through November 2016. Not valid for groups

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FFtival Hours

Opening Day November 25 from 11am to 9pm

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Wednesdays and Fridays 6:30 to 9pm S aturdays 11am to 9pm Sundays Noon to 5pm Christmas Eve 11am to 2pm S antas from around the world & the Legends of Christmas Chestnut Roasting Caroling Concer ts The Candy-Filled World of the Gingerbread Village S anta Parade on S aturdays and Sundays Late night shopping by the Holiday Lights on Wednesday, Friday, and S aturday Evenings Photos with S anta Breakfast with S anta Yuletide Dinners with the Legends of Christmas Krampusnachts on Wednesday Evenings

ENJOY SHOPPING, DINING, AND TIME WITH FRIENDS & FAMILY ALONG HISTORIC MAIN STREET

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| 62 |

classics rock

| 71 |

friends in knead

| 77 |

breaking out of the shell

| 83 |

reach for the pie

We have your guide for preparing (and enjoying) the most important holiday meal of the year. Bridge Bread provides jobs and economic independence for people struggling with homelessness or home insecurity in St. Louis. For proof that its mission is working, just ask its bakers. Chestnuts, once a holiday tradition, are putting down new roots in the Midwest. Pastry chef Natasha Goellner whips up five creative interpretations of pumpkin pie guaranteed to make you thankful this holiday season.

Photo oF CiNNaMoN roLLS FroM BridGe Bread (P. 71) By judd deMaLiNe

This isn’t a cocktail party; this is probably the most massive meal you’ll serve in your home all year. Let the meal be the main event, and keep the surrounding snacks and sips low key. Appetizers should be light: just enough to keep stragglers happy and out of your way as you wrap things up in the kitchen. I like to set out a few cheeses, nuts and crackers alongside fresh persimmons and roasted grapes. Drinks should be unfussy and, ideally, ones guests can pour themselves – think wine, beer or batch cocktails – because no one needs to be mixing drinks and chopping garlic at the same time. If you want to serve mixed drinks, designate a guest as the bartender ahead of time to handle requests. Desserts should be as easy as, well, you know what. pies simply are Thanksgiving; they’re the perfect end to a harvest meal and can be made the day before when you aren’t pressed for time (or oven space). Save the show for another special occasion. Turn to p. 83 for five creative and gorgeous takes on the classic pumpkin pie.

STory and recIpeS By Shannon WeBer

| phoTography By JennIFer SIlverBerg

am a culinary adventure-seeker; exploring new ingredients and preparations is something I’m prone to doing on a regular basis. My family is mostly amenable to this, even during holidays, with one major exception: Thanksgiving dinner. Because – as they would say – you simply don’t mess with the classics.

proudly alongside green beans, returned from a decades-long exile. I fill in with bits and bites – roasted grapes and cheeses to snack on here, a wintery salad or festive cocktail there – as grace notes to a meal that needs no improvement but often benefits from a little excitement around the edges.

I don’t argue with them. I wouldn’t dare, lest Thanksgiving be yanked out from under me and placed in more trustworthy hands, but that’s not really why. Thanksgiving is hallowed – the most important food holiday of the year – steeped in so much tradition and nostalgia that I wouldn’t even think about replacing anything from our canon of recipes. There have been small adjustments over the years, yes: Mashed potatoes have given way to crispy roasted ones, and Brussels sprouts now sit

This year, the Thanksgiving meal adorning our dining room table will be the same meal that has adorned countless tables in my family before it, a meal that has traveled great distances to different states and through generations. For the first time, however, I have the pleasure of sharing some of these recipes right here, with you. Whether you’re beginning your own traditions or just looking to make small adjustments to your menu, you can’t miss with these timeless dishes.

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There are many ways to roast a turkey; a quick Google search will prove it. This is the way our family has done it for a long as I can remember, with the brine being a new (and welcome) addition in recent years. Making the brine is like pregaming Thanksgiving – the aroma of all those warming herbs and spices is sure to get you pumped for the big day. Research cooking times for the size of bird you buy, and bear in mind that brined turkeys tend to take slightly less time to cook, as do unstuffed birds. You will need kitchen twine to truss the turkey’s legs prior to roasting. yields | 1 whole turkey |

Brining liquid 1 quart cold water 1 cup kosher salt 8 dried bay leaves 3 Tbsp peppercorns 1½ Tbsp yellow mustard seeds 1 Tbsp juniper berries 1 Tbsp whole allspice berries 1 medium red onion, peeled and quartered 1 head garlic, peeled and crushed peel of 1 large orange, peeled with a vegetable peeler into 1-inch wide strips 20 sprigs fresh thyme 3 sprigs fresh rosemary

roasted turkey 1 whole turkey, 12 to 20 lbs, neck and giblets removed and reserved for giblet pan gravy (see next page) 3 to 6 quarts cold water (enough to submerge turkey) 1 large sweet yellow onion, peeled and quartered 1½ cups celery leaves and tops, chopped in 1-inch sections 4 to 6 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 3 sprigs fresh rosemary, divided small handful fresh thyme sprigs, divided ½ cup (1 stick) melted unsalted butter kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 juniper berries 4 whole allspice berries 1½ cups unsalted chicken or turkey stock

| preparation – brining liquid | in a large saucepan over high heat, add cold water, salt, bay leaves, peppercorns, mustard seeds, and juniper and allspice berries, and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve salt. Remove from heat; add red onion, garlic, orange peel, and thyme and rosemary sprigs, stir to combine and allow to cool to room temperature. set aside.

| preparation – roasted turkey | Place turkey in a large stockpot or other large vessel able to accommodate brine and turkey. Place turkey in vessel, pour brine over top and fill with cold water (enough to submerge turkey), weighing it down with a heavy dinner plate if needed. Cover with lid, and secure with kitchen twine as needed to keep bird submerged. Brine in refrigerator for 24 hours, flipping bird halfway.

Remove turkey from brine, and pat inside and out with clean kitchen towels or paper towels to dry. let sit 1 to 2 hours before roasting to take chill off; when ready, preheat oven to 425°F. Place turkey in roasting pan, breast-side up, and stuff cavity with segments of onion, celery, garlic, 2 sprigs rosemary and half of thyme; truss legs together with twine. loosen skin all over the breast, and tuck a few thyme sprigs underneath, then tuck wings under body. Brush turkey all over with melted butter, and season very generously with salt and pepper; throw remaining thyme sprigs, rosemary sprig, and juniper and allspice berries in bottom of roasting pan, and add stock. Roast for 30 minutes, reduce heat to 325ºF and continue roasting until breast meat registers 165ºF on a meat thermometer, covering loosely with aluminum foil if top begins to get too brown. (This will depend on turkey size.) Remove from oven, tent with foil and allow to rest at least 30 minutes. Allow pan drippings to cool until fat comes to surface; skim off fat from surface, and reserve drippings for giblet pan gravy (recipe on next page).

Mak

Switc e it you rs h up t h your brine e spices in ; lemo n pee fennel see l and d, your ging bird a rich a er give nd wa fall fl rm avor.

Chef MeMories Cassy Vires, teaChing kitChen Manager and Chef, CoMpanion in Maryland heights, Missouri “i often joke that i started cooking so young because i couldn't take one more meal of Hamburger Helper. We didn't have much when i was a kid – and we certainly didn’t have any gourmet cooks in our family – so fish sticks, boxed meals and frozen dinners were the standard. Thanksgiving was the one day my family always celebrated. No matter how little money we had, Mom always made sure we had a beautifully roasted turkey on the table with all the fixin’s. it was a whole-day affair: We’d start cooking in the morning, snacking the whole time, then have a late lunch. We’d watch the Macy’s parade on TV and then head back into the kitchen for more food. There were no chores, no homework, nowhere to go and nothing to do – we’d just cook and eat from sunup to sundown.”

Make It Yours

Gravy is a blank canvas: Add what you like here. Get creative with a little fresh rosemary, ground mustard, fennel or fresh oregano. Chile flakes are nice, as well, if your guests don’t mind a little heat.

Fact: Giblets add undeniable flavor and depth to gravy, and you should be using them to make yours. After they simmer, discard the gizzard; it can be rubbery and hard to deal with. Chop everything else extremely fine, and really get into the neck with your fingers to pull off all that succulent meat; you won’t be sorry. You also won’t be sorry about the generous pour of wine in the gravy, but that goes without saying. Switch the dry white out for an equally dry red if you prefer. yields | 2 cups |

3 ½ 1 8 ¼ 2

Tbsp unsalted butter, divided large sweet yellow onion, roughly chopped cup roughly chopped celery stalks sprigs fresh thyme, divided cup fresh parsley sprigs cups unsalted chicken or turkey stock turkey giblets (neck, heart, liver, gizzard), rinsed and patted dry 2 to 3 cups cold water 2 Tbsp all-purpose flour ½ cup pan drippings from turkey-roasting pan (see classic roasted turkey recipe on p. 63) ½ cup dry white wine kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

| preparation | Add 1 tablespoon butter to a large saucepan, and melt over medium heat. stir in onion and celery, cooking until soft, 5 minutes. Add 4 sprigs thyme, parsley and stock; add giblets to saucepan, and then add enough cold water to cover by ½ inch. increase heat to medium-high, and bring to a boil; reduce to low, and simmer for 1 hour or until meat is cooked. Remove giblets, and discard gizzard. Using your fingers, remove as much meat as possible from neck, and chop finely. Chop remaining giblets very finely. set chopped giblets aside. strain solids out of broth, and discard, reserving broth. in a large skillet, melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat; add flour, and whisk until flour is cooked and mixture is smooth. Continue whisking, and add pan drippings; whisk until smooth. Continue whisking, and stream in wine; bring to a bubble, and cook or 1 to 2 minutes. stream in 1 cup reserved giblet broth, whisking until incorporated, then add remaining thyme sprigs and a second cup broth, whisking again. Add chopped giblets, and heat to a bubble once again; continue cooking until desired consistency is reached. Gravy will thicken slightly once removed from heat. serve warm alongside classic roasted turkey. 64

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chef MeMorIes JessIca arMstrong, pastrY chef, novel In kansas cItY “My grandmother taught me how to make pies at an early age, and I’ve made pie for every Thanksgiving I can remember. A favorite is the ‘two-fer pie,’ with pumpkin on bottom and pecan on top. Along with hand-turned vanilla ice cream and French silk pie, these are our sweet Turkey Day traditions. After dinner, the leftovers are for snacking: Homemade rolls turn into ham sandwiches, and ham and bean soup is essential. Pie is eaten at breakfast for at least a week or until it’s gone. As a family of cooks, this is our favorite time of year.”

With I make Brussels sprouts a thousand ways because they pair so, so well with everything from maple syrup and apples to bacon and Dijon mustard. This version is my take on a classic green bean casserole that my family has made for ages that consists of green beans, bacon and pearl onions, with slivered almonds scattered over the top. serves | 8 to 10 |

2 1 2 4 6 ₁⁄₃ ¼

lbs Brussels sprouts, ends trimmed and halved lb frozen pearl onions (about 2½ cups), thawed and patted dry Tbsp fresh thyme leaves Tbsp olive oil, divided sea salt and freshly ground black pepper oz pancetta cup roughly chopped dry-toasted, slivered almonds cup pomegranate arils

| preparation | Preheat oven to 425°F. In a large bowl, add sprouts, onions and thyme, and drizzle 3 tablespoons olive oil over top; toss to coat. season with salt and pepper, and spread in a single layer on a lipped sheet pan, evenly spaced, and roast in oven for 30 to 40 minutes, until crispy. Meanwhile, prepare a paper towel-lined plate. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add pancetta, and cook until crispy; transfer to prepared plate to drain. roughly chop, and set aside in a large bowl. When sprouts have finished roasting, add to bowl with pancetta; toss to incorporate. Add to a large, low serving bowl, check seasoning and garnish with toasted almonds and pomegranate arils.

Ambitious cooks manage to create Thanksgiving dinners in cramped apartments, spacious Miele-outfitted dream homes and everything in between. If you have a fully equipped kitchen, you don’t need my help; this is for the rest of us just trying to get it done. I’ve made Thanksgiving dinner on a 20-inch apartment stove with microwave assistance, and I’ve also made it using a standard single oven and four-burner range. This year, I’ll get to execute our holiday meal using an induction stovetop and a vintage 1980s double-wall oven that suffers a kind of temperature-related anxiety when you turn both on at once; needless to say, things could get interesting. No matter what you’re working with, remember: It will all be OK. You can do this; all you need is a plan – and I’m here to help.

Strategize the Bird. This is just simple math: Calculate your number of guests, decide if you want leftovers and determine what size turkey you need from that information. Frozen birds can take anywhere from a few hours to a few days to thaw, depending on your method, so plan accordingly (and leave time for the 24-hour turkey brine, which can be done during the last day of defrosting). Fresh birds are ready to go straight into the brine and can be reserved in the refrigerator up to four days before roasting. Create a MaSter LiSt. Have a master list of all the ingredients you’ll need for the meal, including any drinks and appetizers you plan to serve. remember to include things like zip-close bags to store prechopped and measured vegetables, spice mixes and leftovers, and disposable small plates and/or napkins for appetizers and drinks, if desired. PrePare SPaCe. Clean out your pantry, refrigerator, freezer, everything: You don’t want to be midprep and realize that you’ve run out of room or that you’ve lost something in the shuffle. CheCk Your PantrY. run your pantry and spice cabinet against your grocery list to see what you might need to refill while you’re out shopping – I’m known for running out of staples like flour and butter during the holidays, so use Thanksgiving as an excuse to stock up. divide the LiSt. Break out nonperishables, frozen goods or sturdy ingredients that will keep for the better part of a week from your list of “delicates” like herbs and fresh vegetables, which should be purchased just before you begin to prep for the meal. Buy the nonperishables no later than the weekend before. Markets are chaotic at the beginning of Thanksgiving week, and it’s much easier to focus on grabbing a few items rather than loading up a cart.

PreP and Cooking

one to two daYS out ● Begin Brine (24 hourS Before)

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● aSSeMBLe BLender ingredientS ● BLend and Store ● toaSt waLnutS

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Make it Yours

If you’re inviting adventurous types to your Thanksgiving table, switch out the sage or hot sausage for chorizo, which adds a fabulous spicy flavor to the stuffing. Cranberries are also a great mix-in for a little tartness and color.

chef MeMories Wes Johnson, chef-oWner, Metropolitan farMer in springfield, Missouri “In the past few years, my wife and I moved back to springfield, Missouri, to start a family. since moving back, I opened

I’ve never given out my family’s stuffing recipe, and I’d put it up against your grandma’s any day of the week. We make this a day ahead and heat it up to serve, mostly so my sister and I have an extra 24 hours to sneak bites.

Metropolitan Farmer and Barley, Wheat & rye. With my wife being close to her family and a lover of all holidays, I was told that for her to agree to me opening another restaurant, I would have to forever give up working on Thanksgiving and Christmas. I quickly agreed, not really thinking through my decision. Months passed, and soon the day arrived: Thanksgiving. I wasn’t sure what to do since I’ve always worked on holidays, and I felt out of place. I think my in-laws knew how awkward I felt because they quickly asked me to set out platters and lay out the buffet. While I was doing so, my father-in-law shared his recipe for burnt-sugar ice cream with me and the story about how he got the recipe. I began to relax and let the cooking I love be expressed to this wonderful family that had embraced me so willingly just a short time before. Now, a few years into this adventure, I can’t imagine a holiday without them. I look forward to planning our next holiday meal with my mother-in-law, the best party-planner I have ever worked with.” 66

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serves | 10 to 12 |

2 1 10

lbs soft Italian bread (2 to 3 large loaves) lb sage sausage or hot sausage Tbsp unsalted butter, plus more for buttering baking dish 1 large sweet yellow onion, diced (about 2 cups) 2 cups diced celery stalks 2 cloves garlic, minced 3 medium Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, ½-inch dice 2 Tbsp fresh sage leaves ½ cup roughly chopped fresh parsley leaves, plus more for garnish 2 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste ¾ tsp freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste ½ tsp chile flakes 3 to 4 cups unsalted chicken stock

| preparation | Preheat oven to 300°F. slice or tear bread into ¾-inch pieces, and spread in

a single layer onto lipped sheet pans (2 to 3, or work in batches). Bake for 10 minutes until dried and crisp, rotating pans halfway through. remove, and allow to cool. Once cool, press lightly with rolling pin to break up and vary texture. set aside. Increase oven temperature to 350°F. Prepare a paper towel-lined plate. remove sausage from casings if needed, and cook in a large skillet over medium-high heat, breaking it up with wooden spoon as it cooks, until cooked through. Transfer to prepared plate to drain. Liberally butter a 9-by-13-inch glass baking dish. In a large stockpot or Dutch oven, melt 10 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Add onion, celery, garlic, apples and sage; cook until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. remove from heat, and stir in parsley, salt, pepper and chile flakes; add cooked sausage, and stir until incorporated. Add stock, place over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. remove from heat, add bread chunks and stir to combine until everything is evenly distributed. Check seasoning, add more salt and pepper if needed, and then transfer to prepared baking dish. Cover tightly with aluminum foil, and bake for 45 minutes; uncover, and continue baking for 30 minutes until golden and crispy on top. Garnish with parsley leaves, and serve.

With Be honest: Thanksgiving can get a little heavy on the roasted vegetables, and you know it. This salad lets you use seasonal roots in a fresh, unexpected way – a little palate cleanser, if you will, not to mention your guests will be superimpressed by your vegetable-ribboning skills. We eat this salad all year long; make it once, and you’ll know why. serves | 8 to 10 |

Vinegar Dressing ¼ cup white wine vinegar or Champagne vinegar (or combination of the two) 2 Tbsp maple syrup 1½ Tbsp walnut oil 1 clove garlic, minced ½ tsp kosher salt ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper

Make

Yours Not a f an of w alnuts? Pecans or even toasted hazelnu ts mak e a grea substit t ute her e.

root ribbon salaD 2 to 2½ lbs butternut squash (long-necked if possible), peeled 1 lb rainbow carrots, scrubbed and trimmed 1 lb parsnips, scrubbed, trimmed, lightly peeled as needed ²⁄3 cup roughly chopped fresh parsley leaves, plus more for garnish ²⁄3 cup plus 2 Tbsp dry-toasted, roughly chopped walnuts, plus more for garnish

| preparation – vinegar dressing | Add all ingredients to a lidded jar. secure lid,

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and shake to combine. Transfer to refrigerator to chill, at least 1 hour.

| preparation – root ribbon salad | separate neck from bottom of butternut squash; reserve bottom for another use. Lay neck on cutting board, and peel firmly with vegetable peeler into thin ribbons. repeat process with carrots and parsnips, tip to tail, and add all peels to a large bowl. Add parsley and walnuts; toss well to evenly distribute ingredients. Pour vinegar dressing over top, and toss to combine; check seasoning, garnish with parsley leaves and additional walnuts, and serve immediately.

EL SALVADOR january MYANMAR february HONDURAS march COLOMBIA august BRAZIL september HAWAII october

chef MeMories Mike ranDolph, chef-owner, ranDolfi’s anD pÚblico in uniVersitY citY, Missouri, anD half & half in claYton, Missouri “In our family, we always make turkey tetrazzini with leftover turkey. even though I’m Italian, this is a tradition from my wife Liz’s side of the family. Her mom always made it after Thanksgiving, and it’s just one of those

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dishes that’s comforting and reminds me of time at home with the family.” Inspired Local Food Culture

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make

These perfect potatoes began life as a humble, minutesto-prepare side dish for winter evenings and quickly became a Thanksgiving staple. Mashed potatoes are wonderfully classic but can be – let’s face it – a little yawn-inducing and heavy. Think of these as loaded holiday french fries – fragrant, showy and right at home under a generous pour of gravy. serves | 8 to 10 |

2½ 1 ½ 2 2 4

lbs red potatoes, scrubbed and quartered Tbsp kosher salt cup plus 1 Tbsp olive oil, divided Tbsp fresh thyme leaves Tbsp finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves cloves garlic (2½ to 3 Tbsp), minced sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

| preparation | In a large stockpot, add potatoes and enough cold water to cover potatoes by 1 inch; add salt to pot. Bring to a boil; boil for 10 minutes or until potatoes are fork-tender. Drain potatoes, and place back in hot pan to dry, 5 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, add ½ cup oil, thyme, rosemary and garlic to lidded jar; secure lid, and shake to blend, and set aside. Preheat oven to 425°F. Brush lipped sheet pan with remaining 1 Tbsp olive oil; set potatoes on pan, spaced evenly. Gently mash potatoes using a potato masher, leaving them in slight mounds. season with salt and pepper over top; brush potatoes all over with oil-herb mixture. season again generously with salt and pepper, and roast for 30 minutes on middle rack of oven, until bottoms and skins are very crispy and deep golden brown.

chef memoRies coRY shupe, chef-owNeR, thYme squaRe café iN quiNcY, illiNois “My great-grandmother, who we called Granny, always made noodles for Thanksgiving. It was a dish made with egg noodles, chicken and turkey broths, lots of celery, black pepper and shredded turkey, and it was cooked in this massive old-school metal Crock-Pot that took up one whole counter. It could be eaten as a meal itself: The noodles soaked up most of the stock, and it was very aromatic. When I went back for seconds, the noodles were always my first stop. Nobody has been able to replicate it.”

Nicholas ReNfRoe, chef-owNeR, Black walNut BistRo iN heRmaNN, missouRi “Our families know how hard we work at the restaurant all year, so they like to give us a break around the holidays. Our grandparents still host and prepare the traditional Thanksgiving meal, but my wife and I contribute annually with our cranberry-orange mulled wine. It’s a warm, Merlot-based cocktail filled with clove-studded oranges, cinnamon and brandy. We throw it in the slow cooker early Thanksgiving morning, then lazily watch the Thanksgiving parade with our two dachshunds.” 68

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YouRs For an extra fl ourish, add a li ttle sta ck of gr Parmes ated an to e ach pot during ato the fina l minut e s of roas ting.

My great-aunt makes a fabulous corn pudding; this spoonbread captures all the sweetness and flavor of her dish and combines it with the elegance of a soufflé-style presentation, with a little undercurrent of goat cheese running through it. This puffs nicely, stands tall without sinking and stays hot for hours. Ingredient Note: Freeze-dried corn is easier to find than you might think. Look for it in your local grocery store near the freeze-dried fruits. It’s worth the search; it adds unrestrained corn flavor to your finished dish. serves | 8 to 10 |

1 ²⁄3 ¼ 2 ½ 4 5 4 2½ 1

cup cornmeal cup freeze-dried corn kernels cup all-purpose flour cups whole milk cup granulated sugar oz room-temperature goat cheese large eggs, yolks and whites separated Tbsp unsalted butter, plus more for greasing dish cups fresh sweet corn kernels (from 3 ears of corn), divided tsp kosher salt, plus a pinch for beating egg whites

| preparation | In a blender, add first 6 ingredients and 4 egg yolks (discard fifth yolk); secure lid, and blend for 30 seconds until smooth. scrape sides of blender as needed, and blend until no dry patches remain. set aside. In a large skillet, heat butter over medium-high heat until melted. Add remaining ingredients except ½ cup fresh corn kernels and egg whites to butter, and cook until toasted, 6 to 8 minutes. remove from heat, and allow to cool slightly; scrape mixture into blender with cornmeal purée, add salt and purée until smooth and fully incorporated. Preheat oven to 375°F. Grease and lightly flour a 1½-quart soufflé dish. In a large bowl, add corn purée. In another large bowl, add egg whites with a pinch of kosher salt. Beat egg whites until stiff peaks form; add 1 cup egg whites into corn mixture, and fold to lighten. Add remaining whites, and fold until smooth and incorporated. Fold in remaining ½ cup fresh corn kernels. Pour carefully into prepared dish, and bake 45 to 55 minutes, until dark golden on top. remove from oven, and allow to cool slightly before serving.

You can’t get much more classic American than Jell-O; I love the nostalgia of it. The recipe this is based on comes from a close friend’s mother, and her version includes the childhood favorite. My version is free of Jell-O but full of flavors as vibrant as the colors in your vintage Betty Crocker Cookbook. It’s majestically fruity and fuchsia, and your guests won’t be able to keep their hands off it – a far cry from canned cranberry sauce. yIelds | 3½ cups |

12 ½ 1 1 1

oz fresh or frozen cranberries cup granulated sugar cup cold water small apple, peeled, cored, grated cup crushed pineapple, drained with juice reserved pinch ground cloves pinch ground allspice pinch kosher salt zest of 1 large orange, peeled top to bottom with vegetable peeler into 1-inch-wide strips juice of 2 large oranges

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| preparation | In a large saucepan, stir cranberries, sugar and cold water together, and set over medium-high heat; bring to a boil, and let simmer until berries burst, 5 minutes. reduce heat to medium-low. Add apple, crushed pineapple, cloves, allspice, salt and orange zest and simmer until thickened and reduced, stirring occasionally, 20 minutes. In a small bowl, stir together orange juice and reserved pineapple juice for a total 1 cup juice; add to cranberry mixture, and simmer for 5 minutes longer. remove from heat, and let cool to room temperature; place in jar, and store in refrigerator until ready to serve. serve chilled.

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bridge bread provides jobs and economic independence for people struggling with homelessness or home insecurity in st. louis. for proof that its mission is working, just ask one of its bakers. Written by nancy StileS photography by Judd demaline

on her first day at bridge bread, bre walked more than 6 miles from new life evangelistic center in downtown St. louis to the bakery on South grand for her 7am shift. She had been homeless for more than two years, but she made it her duty to volunteer every day at new life, no matter what. a caseworker at the center saw how passionate bre was about helping people and referred her to Fred domke, co-founder of bridge bread. “We talked, i had an interview and i guess i was what he was looking for because he hired me,” bre says. “being a woman and being homeless – it’s real hard out there. i made it through. now i have my own place, i’m paying my bills on time, [i’m] working and i’m making it. i’m making it because of Fred and [his wife] Sharon. they were a blessing. if it weren’t for them, i don’t know where i’d be right now. i really don’t.” “bre came with an excellent recommendation from the bridge outreach [a daytime homeless center

that closed in June 2016] as a hardworking volunteer,” Fred says of that first meeting. “i found her to be very eager to work hard to improve her situation. She was in pretty desperate straits but still had hope.”

eight-week discussion series on the ethical issues of poverty. they were inspired by the seminar but weren’t sure what they could do to help. With a background in information-technology consulting, Fred knew he wanted to play a role in job creation of some kind to help people get back on their feet.

bre has also secured Section 8 housing and is able to send money to her daughter, a nursing student at lincoln university in Jefferson city, missouri. years ago, bre herself was a nursing student, but she was unable to earn her degree after things in bre, who just celebrated one year at bridge her life “went south.” now, she’s planning bread last month – and her 38th birthday in to pursue a certified nursing assistant September – no longer has to walk 6 miles to certification, which would allow her to work. “i came in as a dishwasher, and a week work in nursing homes, followed by her later, i was rolling [bread],” she says. Within registered nurse certification. a month, bre was trained on every station in the kitchen. the chocolate cinnamon rolls “hopefully – no,” she stops herself short. are her favorite treat to eat; she points to “i’m not going to say ‘hopefully’ because her apron covered in chocolate as proof. i’m going to make that my duty in the next couple of months to get started. i love this place, but i do want to move up. i want to bre have a career, so i’m gonna take advantage of everything i possibly can.”

“i’m a business guy, so i wanted to do something with jobs, but we couldn’t figure out what,” Fred says. “my wife went away for a weekend, and i decided to make bread. that night i had a dream i was at the homeless center making bread with the homeless and thought, ‘oK, i got instructions, lord; thank you.’”

although it means they’ll lose a hardworking baker, that’s exactly what Fred and Sharon domke want to hear.

the domkes founded bridge bread in the fall of 2011 after their pastor at lafayette park united methodist church led an

Fred began with help from the chef at a homeless outreach ministry. today he gets referrals for prospective bakers through Kingdom house, which offers social services to adults and children. the domkes help their employees find stable housing through homeFirst Stl, take care of outstanding warrants, get driver’s licenses and more. the only requirements? “We ask for someone who otherwise could not obtain employment, but [who] has the

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done about 150,000 loaves of bread and about 100,000 packs of cinnamon rolls, so we’re pretty good at it.” Daryl laughs when Fred reminds him of their first cinnamon rolls. They couldn’t figure out why all the cinnamon was dripping out of the rolls – each as big as a paper plate – during the baking process, but they eventually reduced the size and got the recipe down pat. Daryl says they pretty much made every mistake in the book, and they still experiment with new items like cookies or cakes. (If something new works, the bakers ask Fred to taste it, and then it might end up on the menu.) Daryl’s favorite product is the cranberry-orange cinnamon roll, although he doesn’t eat as many as he used to. “We used to eat all our mistakes,” Daryl says with a laugh, “but I gained 31 pounds in one month! My doctor says I can’t be doing that.”

Bridge Bread’s Cherokee Street storefront in St. Louis opened in July 2015 and sells the bakery’s range of products, including cranberry-orange cinnamon rolls, dinner rolls, apple-cinnamon bread and brioche.

potential of being successful,” Fred says. “We are perfectly OK if somebody has a criminal record, as long as it’s not a violent crime. If they have substance addiction, we want it to be under treatment.” Bridge Bread, which is a nonprofit run by an advisory board, makes a point not to apply for or accept government assistance, and it gets by on donations – Lucky’s Market recently supplied a commercial freezer, for example – and sales from its baked goods. The baking is done in the commercial kitchen on South Grand Boulevard in the Carondelet neighborhood, and you can find Bridge Bread products in about 45 churches in the St. Louis area. You can also stop by the Cherokee Street storefront, which opened in July 2015, or the St. Charles storefront, which opened in July 2016 and has more than doubled the bakery’s output.

Shifts at the bakery are long and physically demanding. Bakers spend most of the day on their feet, mixing and proofing dough, cutting dough into loaves, proofing it again before baking it and then packaging it. Once they’re done baking for the day, they thoroughly clean the kitchen. Daryl says the best days are still when he is taught to make something new.

“Daryl says we learn by making mistakes,” Fred says of his most senior team member, who celebrates five years with Bridge Bread this month. “If [something] doesn’t work, we try something else. We’ve now 72

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“We’ve had 18 bakers come through here in five years,” Daryl says. “Some have moved on to other things, but all in all, people are moving forward, bettering their lives – and that’s the whole purpose.” Another thing that makes Bridge Bread so appealing, Daryl says, is its work with churches and schools. The bakers talk to kids about their lives and the work they do. “It’s impactful,” Daryl says. “It makes a real impression on the kids, to where they want to become social activists at an early age – they find out about people suffering; they want to do something.” “We give them the real story,” production manager Dewayne adds. “It’s different from listening to your parents – when we tell them, they believe us. They can relate to us.”

dewayne

“I’m still learning,” Daryl says. “Fred just brought some troubleshooting charts in and a book that I call ‘the bible’ – it’s a baking book, about 500 pages. [Fred] brought that in the other day, and I already learned something new. If you’re lucky, you learn something new every day.”

daryl

“The bakery is just slammed with production,” Fred says of the expansion. The rapid growth has also recently allowed the six bakers to average 40 to 45 hours per week; they’re paid between $10.15 and $13.15 an hour.

The bakers’ days start at 7am, when they arrive at the baking facility to start prepping, proofing, rolling and baking various goodies, from the signature XXXX Chocolate Rolls – sweet rolls made with four different types of chocolate – to communion loaves for churches and sandwich-ready sourdough. The recipes took a lot of trial and error, Fred says; they started with a recipe for brioche and a recipe for sourdough, and the bakers came up with the rest.

Bridge Bread team a family and plans to work at the bakery until he retires. Like in any family, Daryl says, the bakers help one another out. With more than 20 years on the next-oldest baker, he hopes he can impart some knowledge and experience on his co-workers so they can avoid making the same mistakes he did.

At 62, Daryl is also the oldest team member. He was a volunteer at a homeless outreach ministry, despite being homeless himself for most of 2011 after a divorce. Daryl says he was a cynical person most of his life growing up “on the mean streets” of Chicago.His mother was murdered in a grocery-store robbery, and “that left me very bitter for 10 or 12 years,” he says. “I just didn’t care about life [until] I noticed it started affecting my children negatively – I didn’t like that look.” He says he’s softened now, and he is passionate about helping others after seeing that there are good people in the world like the Domkes. He considers the

Dewayne recently earned his GED at 28; the team threw him a graduation party above the Cherokee Street storefront in the Nebula co-working space. He was hired at Bridge Bread after his cousin Terrance, who is also a baker there, recommended him for the job. When Dewayne first started, he made $200 a week “with the sink and the mop,” Fred says. Now, almost three years later, he’s the bakery’s production manager and was able to pay off $3,000 in warrants, get his driver’s license back, buy a used truck, fix it up, and start a landscaping and home improvement business called GetWayne’s. He hopes to start studying for a degree in business administration at St. Louis Community College-Forest Park in January. “In five years, I expect to be coming back to Bridge Bread, talking to new workers and letting them know that I used to be where they’re at,” Dewayne says. “I’ll be 10 times where I am now – I’ve got nothing but the best expectations for myself, when I used to have the worst.” The key, Dewayne says, is being around the right people. It was difficult not to be inspired by the entrepreneurs coming in

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and out of Nebula’s co-working space. It was also difficult to be negative with the Domkes and his co-workers supporting him. And now, with a newborn son, he feels he’s found the right energy and is leading by example. When he told a friend he wanted to help other people with his business like Bridge Bread has helped him, his friend didn’t think Dewayne could do it. “That’s impossible,” his friend told him. “What if somebody [breaks] something?” “He now works for me,” Dewayne says, “and he makes $100 a day, no ifs, ands or buts – you make $100 when you go out on the truck with me. And it’s because this family, this whole organization is supporting me. There’s nothing but positive energy, and everybody should be investing in businesses like this. I wouldn’t be surprised if Bill Gates himself comes to [Fred] next. Because it works.” For the Domkes, finding stable housing and new careers for the bakers is just the beginning of Bridge Bread’s mission. The next step is to create a dialogue between the people baking the bread and the people buying the bread.

want to be a taker. I want to pay my fair share, carry my load. And I’m proud that I’m able to do that.” Initially, the program focused solely on finding the bakers stable housing and employment – which it still does – but thanks to its success, Bridge Bread’s mission has expanded to include community outreach and initiating conversations about poverty and homelessness. “We’ve reached an enormous number of people and made them aware of what’s going on, and this is increasingly becoming the value,” Fred says. Bridge Bread often gets requests for bakers to come out and speak to churches and schools, including in communities with little racial diversity. “A lot of those kids have not seen what happens in the inner city,” Daryl says. “They don’t have a clue, other than what they see on TV.” Bridge Bread also has a program where you can have lunch with the bakers, which has been very popular, or come bake with them, as long as you buy everything you make. The goal is to raise awareness about the challenges facing the homeless and housing insecure across the St. Louis area and what people can do to help. Fred shares a time when Dewayne and another baker, Ronald, visited Mary Queen of Peace, a Catholic church in Webster Groves, Missouri. “We brought Ronald and Dewayne to Mary Queen of Peace, and they told their story,” Fred says. “The [kids] were wide-eyed. They asked great questions, and after an hour, they became a little bit comfortable in conversation. Becoming connected is a big deal.” Dewayne thinks that’s one of the most important parts of the program, as well. He says he grew up around the wrong energy, the wrong type of people.

Today, due to the success of the organization, Fred and Sharon are able to devote all their time to Bridge Bread. Fred manages the bakery and sales while Sharon oversees distribution and bookkeeping. Fred admits that it’s been difficult for his bakers and people like them to get back on their feet and that at times, it’s made him jaded about the criminal-justice system. “But it’s [also] reinforced the decision to do this,” Fred says. He shares a story about one of his bakers who was incarcerated for six years and, following her release, was sued by the state for six years of unpaid child support. “[Government programs] punish you when you have nothing, and then when you get something, they take it back from you,” Fred says. “There’s no way to get out of it. It’s really hard [for them]. They expect to be hassled, humiliated. When you’re compassionate and friendly, it surprises them in a really positive way, and I find that really rewarding – it opens up a lot of lines of communication.” Daryl agrees. “The job has added stability, which is everything for me,” he says. “I’ve been able to work, save money, buy things. I’m paying taxes again – I want to be a contributing member of society. I don’t 74

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“I grew up in the bad parts of the streets my whole life,” Dewayne says. “When I met [the Domkes], the energy that it put in me – it worked. You can have some of the most hardcore people come in [the kitchen] here and be the sweetest people.” He points to his cousin, Terrance, who got him the job at Bridge Bread. “Like my cousin, with tattoos, you’d be scared of him if you saw him at Family Dollar,” he says with a laugh. “But if you talk to him, he’s one of the nicest dudes in the world. This place makes you be like that.” Bridge Bread’s neighbors on Cherokee Street, Saint Louis Hop Shop, recently hosted a release party for a rap song called “Bridge Bread Anthem” by local Christian artist Antha Rednote. A portion of the iTunes proceeds for each download supports the bakery. Fred has a favorite line from the song: “Thank you to all of those who watered my life/Now watch it grow.” “We are seeing them grow,” he says of the bakers. “That’s the big reward.” bridgebread.org Editor’s NotE: The surnames of Bridge Bread’s bakers have been omitted at the bakery’s request.

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Chestnuts, once a holiday tradition, are putting down new roots in the Midwest WRITTeN by eRIC ReUTeR

PhoToGRAPhy by JACKlyN MeyeR

ven on a scorching June day, it’s hard to walk through a chestnut orchard and not find yourself quietly humming the opening lyrics to Nat King Cole’s “The Christmas Song.” Strolling through neat rows of chestnut trees on a ridge overlooking the Missouri River Valley, I sought shelter beneath branches lush with jagged leaves and fragrant pollen. The whirr of insects played counterpoint to the song in my head, as crowds of chestnut growers discussed their trade. The annual Chestnut Growers of America (CGA) conference was touring a research orchard at the University of Missouri Center for Agroforestry (UMCA) that day, and I was there to learn about the historic crop. These days, few Americans have ever stood next to a chestnut tree, yet chestnuts are ingrained in our culture. We associate them with Thanksgiving stuffing and Christmas carols and refer to enduring adages as “that old chestnut.” Despite our familiarity with chestnuts, it’s hard to find them in grocery stores in the U.S. today – but that’s slowly changing. UMCA is a leader among the American scientists and farmers dedicated to reintroducing chestnuts to our landscapes and larders.

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The American chestnut tree (Castanea dentata) once extended across much of eastern North America, from Maine to Mississippi, although it was most heavily rooted in the countless coves of the Appalachian Mountains. The American chestnut’s range never extended west of the Mississippi River, but the closely related Ozark chinquapin (Castanea ozarkensis) filled a similar niche in southern Missouri and Arkansas. Settlers called the American chestnut the perfect tree for its combination of straight, rot-resistant lumber and reliable, copious production of edible nuts. Its towering canopy once defined the mountain forests of eastern North America, with the trees known and valued by Native Americans and settlers alike. In 1904, an invasive Asian fungus was introduced through imported Japanese trees, causing the “chestnut blight.” It swept across North America in the following decades, wiping out forests of native chestnut and chinquapin trees. The rural economy of southern Appalachia, particularly dependent on the tree, which composed up to 25 percent of its forests, suffered heavily from the loss. Chestnuts were a staple food crop for residents, as well as for their livestock and game. They sold the nuts as a cash crop, harvested and sold the timber, and sold the bark to tanneries. Their homes and barns were built with chestnut wood. A food and resource so beloved that it had entered our common lexicon was all but wiped out by the 1940s. The chestnut blight that devastated North America co-evolved with Chinese and Japanese chestnuts, making them highly resistant to the fungus. (European chestnuts, with some exposure to the blight, show moderate resistance.) Today, chestnuts are thriving in Missouri and across the Midwest, with producers sourcing cultivars such as “qing,” a Chinese chestnut, and “sleeping giant,” a Chinese-Japanese-American hybrid.

Shelling CheStnutS Chestnuts are easiest to shell when warm. To shell, but not fully cook: Steam. Score shells and then place chestnuts in a steaming basket over shallow boiling water for a few minutes, until they shell easily. microwave. Score shells, and spread chestnuts in a single layer in a shallow tray with a small amount of water. microwave for up to 1 minute, until they shell easily. microwaving for too long can cause chestnuts to become hard, so experiment in small batches to achieve the right timing.

Old-world chestnut trees are the dog to America’s wolf: Cultivated for thousands of years (unlike their wild American cousins), they’re smaller and tamer. Asian chestnut trees tend to be shorter and bushier, more like a fruit tree than one towering in a forest, making them well-suited for agricultural management. The U.S. imports more than $12 million worth of European and Asian chestnuts each year, but research programs at UMCA are part of a nationwide push to develop these chestnuts as a profitable domestic farm crop and a healthy local food. The CGA has increased its membership from about 30 growers in 1996 to more than 100 today, and interest in domestic production continues to grow. Chestnuts produce nutritious food while conserving soil and reducing off-farm inputs like fertilizer and pesticides. The trees are increasingly seen as an environmentally friendly alternative to

row crops like corn and soy. Every acre of chestnuts grown in Missouri is an acre of stable sod and healthy trees, which supports biodiversity and a better income for local farmers. As I toured the research orchard at UMCA on that hot June day and spoke with chestnut growers and breeders, they all emphasized one thing: Consumers can help restore chestnuts to our landscape by purchasing them and creating a demand. Chestnut trees can take 15 years or more to reach productive maturity, so building demand for the nuts is an important part of a sustainable business model; farmers who plant today need to know that consumers will be there down the road. Some chestnut growers sell directly to consumers online, at their farms or at farmers’ markets; others sell wholesale to specialty grocers. The CGA maintains a directory of all member growers, with many in Missouri, Illinois, Iowa and Kansas, including Fadler Farm in Centralia, Missouri; Chestnut Charlie’s in Lawrence, Kansas; and W.H. Brookhiser & Sons in Wever, Iowa. Growers harvest the nuts manually or mechanically when they drop naturally from trees. Chestnuts mature from September through October, so they’re available during the early winter holiday season. The sweet flavor and versatility of chestnuts make them a great addition in festive fall dishes. Aside from classic chestnut stuffing, their flavor shines in dishes such as and apple-chestnut mini muffins and chestnuts with wild rice. (Turn the page for recipes.) Years ago, Eric Cartwright, executive chef of Campus Dining Services at the University of Missouri in Columbia, collaborated with UMCA to develop a series of recipes highlighting chestnuts to help introduce them to local home cooks. “I would tell home cooks to remember that chestnuts are very high in starch,” he explains, “and thus should be thought of more like a potato than a nut.” Chestnut meat is enclosed in a hard inner shell, which must be scored to prevent a steam buildup inside the shell and a subsequent explosion during roasting. To score shells, use a sharp knife to cut a gash through shells but not into the meat inside. Some experts suggest an X-shaped cut, others a single cut. Chestnuts can be cooked and enjoyed on their own (roasted chestnuts are a classic preparation) or shelled for use in a wide variety of dishes. This season, embrace a longtime American culinary tradition with vibrant new Missouri roots by adding locally grown chestnuts to your holiday table. To find local chestnut farmers in your area, visit chestnutgrowers.org/growers.html.

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Roasted Chestnuts This easy and classic preparation makes for a tasty appetizer or dessert. Keep in mind that a portion of the overall weight will change once chestnuts are shelled. Chestnuts can also be grilled or boiled for 15 to 20 minutes instead of roasting. Recipe couRtesy eRic ReuteR yields | about 1 lb |

1 lb chestnuts

Storing CheStnutS unlike other nuts, chestnuts will not store long-term at room temperature. fresh chestnuts should be refrigerated and used within a few weeks. they’ll last longest if stored in a location with high humidity and some ventilation; for example, store them in paper in the produce drawer. for longer-term storage, they can be frozen in the shell.

| preparation | preheat oven to 400°F. score chestnut shells. (see instructions in sidebar at left.) spread chestnuts on a baking tray with a little water, and roast in oven for 15 to 20 minutes or until meats are tender.

Chestnuts and Wild RiCe

Recipe couRtesy FadleR FaRm in centRalia, missouRi seRves

1 2½ ½ 1 1 4

|4|

cup rinsed wild rice cups chicken or vegetable broth cup shelled chestnuts tsp olive oil cup sliced mushrooms green onions, minced

| preparation | in a large stockpot over medium-high heat, simmer rice and broth for 45 to 60 minutes, until firm but chewy. drain, and set aside. in a large pot, cover chestnut meat with water, and boil about 9 minutes, until slightly crunchy. drain, coarsely chop and set aside. in a sauté pan over medium-high heat, add oil, and sauté mushrooms for 2 to 3 minutes, until tender. combine cooked rice, mushrooms, chestnuts and green onions, and serve.

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Apple-Chestnut Mini Muffins

Recipe couRtesy W.H. BRookHiseR & sons in WeveR, ioWa yields

| 36 mini muffins |

¼ cup oil, more for greasing muffin tin 1¹⁄3 cups cooked and shelled chestnuts, meat finely chopped and reserved, divided ¹⁄3 cup brown sugar 1 egg ½ cup milk 1 apple, finely chopped 1½ cups whole-wheat flour ½ cup sugar 1 tsp baking soda ½ tsp salt

| preparation | preheat oven to 400°F. Grease or oil muffin cups. in a small bowl, combine ¹⁄3 cup chopped chestnut meat and brown sugar, and set aside. in large bowl, beat egg and stir in milk, oil, apple and remaining chopped chestnut meat. in a separate large bowl, combine remaining ingredients, then stir into wet ingredients. Fill muffin cups about ¾ full with batter, and sprinkle chestnut-brown sugar mixture over each. transfer to oven to bake, 20 to 25 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into center of muffins comes out clean. serve.

CaRolina Chestnut Pulled PoRk

You will need wood chips for smoking or grilling the pork. Recipe By eRic caRtWRiGHt, executive cHeF oF campus dininG seRvices at tHe univeRsity oF missouRi, couRtesy oF tHe scHool’s centeR FoR aGRoFoRestRy yields

| 4 lbs |

sauCE

1 6 6 ½

cup apple cider vinegar Tbsp ketchup Tbsp water cup roasted and shelled chestnut meat, shells reserved for smoking 2½ tsp sugar ¾ tsp salt ¼ tsp crushed red pepper PullED PoRK

1 bone-in Boston pork butt (about 8 lbs) 3 Tbsp kosher salt 3 Tbsp freshly ground black pepper

| preparation – sauce | in a blender, combine all ingredients, and blend until smooth. Refrigerate for 24 hours to allow flavors to develop. | preparation – pulled pork | prepare a smoker or charcoal grill for low-temperature cooking (220°F to 245°F). season pork on all sides with salt and pepper. place seasoned pork on smoker or grill, and add wood chips and chestnut shells to coals. slow-cook for 8 to 10 hours or until meat has reached an internal temperature of 195°F and has begun pulling away from bone. Remove pork from grill, wrap in foil and let rest for 30 minutes. pull meat from bone into coarse pieces, removing any large pieces of fat. (leave some fat to retain moisture.) Roughly chop pork, and mix in half of prepared sauce. serve additional sauce on side.

souRCing

Local

Chestnuts Chestnuts are grown and sold by regional producers including the following:

faDlER faRm

in Centralia, Missouri

brent and Valorie fadler began planting chestnut trees in 2005. since then, their operation has grown to involve their two sons and daughters-in-law. they strive to use eco-friendly practices and continue to plant new trees every year. the fadlers sell online and to restaurant and grocery stores in central and eastern missouri; their chestnuts have even been featured in schlafly beer’s Chestnut mild ale. 573.682.4356, missourichestnuts.com

ChEstnut ChaRliE’s in Lawrence, Kansas

Charlie novoGradac and Deborah milks first planted chestnut trees on a patch of farmland near lawrence, Kansas, in 1995. using organic farming methods, their orchard has grown into a diverse island of perennial food production, and they ship chestnuts to customers around the country. 785.841.8505, chestnutcharlie.com

W.h. bRooKhisER & sons in Wever, Iowa

bill brookhiser began planting chestnut trees in 1992 intending to help pay for college for his three children – a goal that has now morphed into college plans for nine grandchildren. the farm in southeastern iowa has been certified organic since 2002. his daughter-in-law Kristen is now sales coordinator for the farm. “our business is truly a family business,” she says, “with all of the family helping with the harvest each year, down to the youngest member. Even a 7-year-old grandson was in charge of driving the tractor during last year’s harvest.” 319.372.4848

2nd Annual Scott Knopfel

Memorial Dine-Out

Feast Magazine’s

First Annual Wedding Guide

TuesDay, NovEmber 15, 2016 Dine out on November 15 and fund scholarships for area restaurant and hotel employees.

uid wedding g ward A feast for big day e guide to th

The 2015 Scott Knopfel Memorial Dine-Out was a terrific success. Scholarships were awarded to nine (9) students in amounts up to $7,000 each. Help fund even more scholarships in 2016. Participating restaurants will make a donation based on the day’s sales. Help local restaurant and hotel employees with the cost of their education while dining out with family and friends. Scott Knopfel was a lifelong St. Louisan who touched many lives during his career in the restaurant and hotel industries. He died tragically in January of 2015.

More information and participating restaurants: MoRestaurants.org/scott-knopfel and MRA—314-576-2777

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Story and recipeS by nataSha Goellner photoGraphy by anGela c. bond

pastry chef natasha goellner whips up five creative interpretations of pumpkin pie that are guaranteed to make you thankful this holiday season.

umpkin pie is a Thanksgiving tradition, with most families making the same go-to recipe year after year. There’s beauty in the simplicity of classic pumpkin pie, but the dessert is also an impressive vehicle for creative interpretation. Four of the following recipes feature fall-perfect flavors without losing what makes pumpkin pie so great: a buttery crust and custardy filling rich with warm spices.

A few of the pies play on other popular fall flavors, including one with a maple syrup-infused filling and pecan crumb topping and another with an orange zest-spiked filling topped with toasted Swiss meringue, served in mini pumpkins. Two of the recipes combine ingredients we rarely associate with Thanksgiving – the curry crust for the pumpkin-coconut cream pie and the plantains in the pumpkin-plantain pie with rum-spiked whipped cream – yet they’ll easily complement the other dishes on your holiday table. And finally, the chocolate-pumpkin pie balances the best of both, blending a favorite fall spice, cinnamon, with chile pepper. Developing new desserts and putting creative spins on classics, like the recipes below, is how I spend most days. I split my time between consulting for the dessert menu at my brother’s Kansas City restaurant, The Antler Room; serving ice cream out of my dessert truck, Cirque du Sucre; and making special-order desserts – including pies – for my bakery, Natasha’s Mulberry & Mott, in our kitchen in Kansas City’s Waldo neighborhood. Creating desserts for three distinct businesses can make life both fun and challenging, but ultimately it’s always rewarding. Although I know it’s hard to stray from your favorite pumpkin pie recipe, I hope you’ll add at least one of these takes on the standard Thanksgiving dessert to your celebration this year.

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basic pie crust This pie crust is flaky, buttery and incredibly tender. The curry crust for the pumpkin-coconut cream pie on p. 87 is the same recipe as below, plus 2 teaspoons of yellow curry powder added to the flour before the lard and butter is added. That’s the only pie that requires the crust to be prebaked, as well – for the rest of these recipes, you want the crust to be unbaked when you add the filling. yields | 3 pie shells |

2¾ 2½ 1 ¾ 1 1

cups all-purpose flour, more for flouring work surface cups cake flour Tbsp kosher salt cup plus 2 Tbsp chilled, cubed unsalted butter cup plus 4 Tbsp chilled lard, sliced into small pieces cup ice water

| preparation | in a large mixing bowl, combine both flours and salt. Add butter and lard, and break up both into pea-sized pieces. (you can use either a pastry cutter or your

pumpkin-plantain pie with rum-spiked whipped cream I love plantains; they blend well with pumpkin, and they’re not overly sweet. The flavors in this pie remind me of being in the Caribbean. yields | 1 pie |

pumpkin-plantain Filling vegetable oil, for oiling dish 4 medium to large plantains, peeled and cut lengthwise 4 large eggs 1½ cups granulated sugar ½ tsp sea salt 2 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground cloves ½ tsp grated nutmeg 1 15-oz can pumpkin 24 oz evaporated milk 2 Tbsp dark rum 1 unbaked basic pie crust (recipe above) Rum-spiked Whipped CReam 2 cups heavy whipping cream ½ cup powdered sugar 2 Tbsp dark rum

| preparation – pumpkin-plantain filling | Preheat oven to 425°F. Place plantains in a lightly oiled baking dish. Brush tops with oil, and bake for 10 to 15 minutes or until very soft and golden. Allow to cool. in a mixer or blender, purée until smooth and free of lumps; this should yield about 2 cups purée. set aside. in a large mixing bowl, whisk together eggs and sugar. Add salt and spices. Whisk in pumpkin and plantain purée. Carefully stir in evaporated milk and rum. Pour filling into unbaked pie crust in pie pan, and bake 10 minutes; reduce heat to 350°F, and continue baking for 40 minutes more or until filling is set. let cool at room temperature for 4 hours. (if making pie ahead of time to serve next day, refrigerate overnight.)

| preparation – rum-spiked whipped cream | in the bowl of a stand mixer with a whisk attachment or using an electric mixer, combine all ingredients, whisking until stiff peaks form. spoon whipped cream onto slices of pie, and serve. 84

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hands.) Once broken up into pea-sized pieces, add water in a steady stream, tossing around in bowl to incorporate. Remove dough from bowl, and turn out onto a floured work surface; very gently knead into a ball. do not overwork dough; it should be soft and shaggy. Cut dough into 3 pieces, and flatten into discs. Wrap each disc separately in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours. Once dough is cold, turn it out onto a floured work surface. Preheat oven to 350°F. dust top of discs lightly with flour. Using a rolling pin, roll out each disc into a large circle about ¹⁄8-inch thick. drape each circle of dough into an empty pie pan. Trim edges, leaving an inch around sides. Crimp dough over edge. Chill before filling. if your recipe calls for a prebaked pie shell, line chilled shell with parchment paper. Fill shell with 2 cups dried beans or pie weights, and bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until baked through. Remove beans or weights, and let cool.

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chocolate-pumpkin pie with cinnamon and cayenne pepper This pie is perfect for chocolate lovers who also love eating pumpkin pie with Thanksgiving dinner; it’s the best of both worlds. The amount of cayenne pepper used in this recipe can be adjusted based on your preference. yIeLds | 2 pies |

16 4 4 1½ 1 2¼ ½ ¾ 2 1 16 ½ 2

oz semisweet chocolate Tbsp unsalted butter large eggs cups granulated sugar 29-oz can pumpkin tsp cinnamon tsp ground ginger tsp cayenne pepper Tbsp cornstarch tsp kosher salt oz evaporated milk cup heavy cream unbaked basic pie crusts (recipe above, top left)

| preparation | Preheat oven to 425°F. Fill a large saucepot with water, and simmer over medium-high heat. Place chocolate and butter in a large bowl or double boiler, and set over simmering water to melt, about 10 minutes, stirring to incorporate. Remove bowl from heat, and let mixture cool to room temperature. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together eggs and sugar. Add pumpkin, spices, cornstarch and salt. Fold chocolate-butter mixture into batter. Gently stir in evaporated milk and heavy cream. Pour filling into unbaked pie crusts in pie pans. Bake both pies for 10 minutes, reduce heat to 350°F and continue baking for another 40 minutes or until filling is set. Inspired Local Food Culture

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pumpkin-orange pie in mini pumpkins with toasted swiss meringue What makes this pumpkin pie so special isn’t just the addition of orange or the generous spoonful of toasted Swiss meringue: It’s special because each is served in a miniature pumpkin. You don’t have to share these pies with anyone because you get your very own. yields | 6 mini pumpkins |

PumPkin-Orange Filling 6 mini pumpkins 4 large eggs 1½ cups granulated sugar zest of 4 large oranges 1 29-oz can pumpkin 1 tsp kosher salt 2 tsp ground cinnamon 1¼ tsp ground ginger ¼ tsp ground cloves ¹⁄8 tsp grated nutmeg 16 oz evaporated milk ½ cup heavy whipping cream ToasTed swiss meringue 1½ cups granulated sugar 6 egg whites 1 tsp vanilla extract

| preparation – pumpkin-orange filling | Preheat oven to 425°F. Cut a hole in tops of each mini pumpkin to remove stems. Using a teaspoon, scoop out seeds, and scrape out meat from insides of each; don’t scrape pumpkin walls too much as this will make them too thin, and they must be sturdy to bake in oven. in a large mixing bowl, whisk together eggs, sugar and orange zest. Add pumpkin, and whisk in salt and spices until incorporated. Very carefully and slowly whisk in evaporated milk and cream; you don’t want to incorporate any air into filling. Reduce oven to 400°F. Place prepared mini pumpkins on a roasting pan, and fill each almost to top with filling. Place in oven, and pour a bit of water into pan, no higher than halfway up pumpkins. Bake for 10 minutes, reduce heat to 350°F and continue baking for 30 or 40 more minutes. Filling should slightly jiggle like Jell-O when finished baking; it shouldn’t be a liquid consistency. Remove pumpkins from pan, and allow cool for a few hours.

| preparation – toasted swiss meringue | in a large metal mixing bowl using an electric mixer, combine sugar and egg whites until frothy. in a saucepot over high heat, heat water until boiling, and then reduce to a simmer. Place bowl with egg whites and sugar over top of pot, and continue whisking until mixture is very warm to the touch. Transfer to the bowl of a stand mixer with the whisk attachment, and mix on high until meringue is white, shiny and holds its shape. Add vanilla extract, and mix for a few more seconds. Generously spoon meringue on top of mini pumpkin pies. if you own a kitchen blowtorch, use it to toast meringue. if you don’t, place pies under oven broiler for 1 or 2 minutes to add color to meringue, or simply serve untoasted.

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pumpkin-coconut cream pie with curry crust Coconut cream pie is my all-time favorite pie; I order it for dessert whenever I spot it on a menu. The addition of curry in the crust complements both the coconut and pumpkin flavors â&#x20AC;&#x201C; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the perfect trifecta. yields | 1 pie |

pumpkin-CoConut Cream Filling 4 cups coconut milk 1Â˝ cups canned pumpkin 1 tbsp pure coconut extract 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp ground allspice 1 cup plus 2 tbsp granulated sugar 4 egg yolks 2 whole eggs 1 cup cornstarch 1 cup heavy cream 1 prebaked basic pie crust made with 2 tsp yellow curry powder (recipe on p. 84) CoConut Whipped Cream 2 cups shredded coconut 2 cups heavy cream Â˝ tsp vanilla extract Â˝ cup powdered sugar

| preparation â&#x20AC;&#x201C; pumpkin-coconut cream filling | Line a lipped baking sheet with plastic wrap.

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In a heavy-bottomed saucepan over high heat, combine coconut milk, pumpkin, coconut extract and spices. While this is heating, in a large mixing bowl, whisk together sugar, egg yolks, whole eggs and cornstarch. Once coconut milk mixture is warm, whisk into egg-sugar mixture. Add back to saucepan, and cook over high heat for 2 minutes, whisking constantly. If lumps start to form, continue whisking until custard is smooth. Immediately pour hot custard onto prepared baking sheet. Cover with plastic wrap, and press wrap into custard to prevent a skin from forming. Let cool to room temperature. In a mixing bowl, whisk heavy cream by hand until stiff peaks form to make whipped cream. Once custard has cooled, fold it into whipped cream until smooth. Pour filling into prebaked curry pie crust (see note in crust recipe) and refrigerate for at least 4 hours.

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| preparation â&#x20AC;&#x201C; coconut whipped cream | Preheat oven to 350Â°F. Place coconut on a baking sheet, and bake 15 to 20 minutes or until golden brown, stirring every few minutes. Set aside to cool. In the bowl of a stand mixer with a whisk attachment or using an electric mixer, whisk remaining ingredients until stiff peaks form. Spread whipped cream over top of fully chilled pie, and sprinkle with cooled coconut. Chill pie in refrigerator until ready to serve.

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maple-pumpkin pie with pecan crumb topping I love this pie because it captures all the flavors of fall in one slice. And in my opinion, if something is made with real maple syrup, it’s perfectly suitable to serve for breakfast. yields | 1 pie |

Pecan Crumb Topping 1 cup packed light brown sugar ½ cup all-purpose flour ¾ cup chopped pecans pinch kosher salt ½ stick unsalted butter, melted Maple-Pumpkin Filling ¾ cup maple syrup 2 large eggs 1 15-oz can pumpkin 1 tsp ground cinnamon ¼ tsp ground cloves ½ tsp ground allspice ½ tsp ground ginger ½ tsp kosher salt ½ cup heavy cream 1 unbaked basic pie crust (recipe on p. 84)

| preparation – pecan crumb topping | Preheat oven to 425°F. In a mixing bowl, add light brown sugar, flour, pecans and salt, and pour melted butter over top. Pinch together with fingers to make large clumps and crumbs. Set aside.

| preparation – maple-pumpkin filling | In a large mixing bowl, combine maple syrup, eggs and pumpkin. Add all spices and salt and then heavy cream. Combine. Pour filling into unbaked pie crust in pie pan. Sprinkle pecan crumb topping evenly over top of pie, and bake for 10 minutes; reduce heat to 350ºF, and continue baking for another 40 minutes or until filling is set. Cover top of pie with aluminum foil if it starts to brown too quickly.

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give ‘em pumpkin to talk about. This month, we’re celebrating autumn with a favorite fall ingredient: pumpkin. We invited our Instagram followers to share photos of pumpkin dishes – from freshly baked pumpkin bread and pies to pumpkin beers – by using the hashtag #feastgram. Turn to p. 83 for five creative interpretations of pumpkin pie from pastry chef Natasha goellner, including chocolate-pumpkin pie and pumpkin-coconut cream pie. Then, flip to p. 44 for a taste of locally made pumpkin bark, truffles and caramels.

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| 1 | harold’s doughnuts @haroldsdoughnuts Trendy? Yes. Delicious? Oh yes. The Harold’s made-from-scratch pumpkin spice cake donut is back for the season! | 2 | Betty rae’s Ice cream @bettyraes There’s nothing #Basic about our new fall flavor: We roasted pie pumpkins, made some @Thou_Mayest espresso and added autumn spices for probably the best #PSL you’ll ever have. Scooping now! |2|

| 3 | grace prItchett

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@glpritch We’re only four weeks into fall, so you better not be tired of pumpkin already. I’m serving up pumpkin spice cheesecake in a chocolate-cupcake crust with bourbon (yes, bourbon) whipped cream.

| 4 | julIa calleo @mylavenderblues These fiber-filled and protein-rich gluten-free pumpkin muffins with a maple-coconut cream frosting are now on the blog! | 5 | lIsa annIe @olivefooddoyou I decided to make @CrazyForCrust copycat Starbucks pumpkin cheesecake muffins and wowsa. | 6 | taI davIs @iofthetyler New pumpkin hummus @Element_STL. Simply perfect for October. Happy Fall! | 7 | Katy hacKer @thefoodienurse And so the pumpkin recipes begin. #ThisIsFall #Vegan #IceCream

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| 8 | candIs stIeBel @candis.stiebel It’s that time of year. Sour cream-pumpkin bundt cakes with praline-bourbon icing and smoked pecan streusel topping. | 9 | sweet KIss BrIgadeIro @sweetkissbrigadeiro Pumpkin brigadeiros happening right now! | 10 | la patIsserIe chouquette @chouquettestl Still featuring the s’mores mousse bombe, as well as that tasty pumpkin-cheesecake bread pudding, salted caramel mille crêpe and so many other goodies. See you soon!

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Want to see your photos in the December issue of Feast?

Next month, we’re warming up from the cold with soup. We want to see the soups you’re making and ordering, from hearty chili and comforting stew to in-season roasted vegetable soups and steaming bowls of ramen. To submit your photos for consideration, simply include the hashtag #feastgram and tag @feastmag on your Instagram photos beginning Tue., Nov. 1. 90

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PHOTOgrAPHY COurTESY INSTAgrAM uSErS

#feastgram

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FRESH IS BEST! ORDER YOUR FRESH TURKEY TODAY FOR THANKSGIVING! We offer the best in fresh turkeys with no added hormones for a fresh Thanksgiving feast! They have a delicious flavor and will save you time – no need to thaw. Choose from our full selection of fresh turkeys and poultry including Mary’s Free-Range Organic Turkeys*. Stop by or call your neighborhood store to order and schedule a pick-up time starting on Nov. 17. Order early, quantities are limited.

*Selection varies by store, limited quantity.

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