October 2011 FEAST Magazine

Page 1

liluma’s little sister

feeding the firehouse

fully caffeinated

the side door

four-alarm fare

coffee galore

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

feastSTL.com | OCTOBER 2011 | FREE

SUGARED GLAZED FROSTED & FILLED


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©2011 Schnucks


NOT ALL MEN FEAR COMMITMENT.

Š2011 Charter Communications. 24-month service agreement required; early termination fees apply. Service not available in all areas. Other restrictions may apply.

Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2011

3


Mercy Heart and Vascular Hospital EVENTS HELD AT Mercy Clinic and Hospital Srvcs. Bldg. /$8($ :93%.67 )630 4 !399*"7

Understanding Congestive Heart Failure

.1351@3<8) ,6?2:1/ % $ #'&= * " 0+9+

Cardiologist Seth Barbanell, MD will explain the signs and symptoms of congestive heart failure and discuss treatment options available at Mercy.

Celebrating five years of service with eight free events! All events are free, but space is limited. So register today! Sign up online at mercy.net/stlouismo or call 314-251-6063.

Cholesterol – Know Your Numbers

4>1@3<8) ,6?2:1/ ;; $ #'&= * " 0+9+

What exactly is cholesterol, and how does it affect your health? Cardiologist Denise Janosik, MD will review the different types of cholesterol and what those numbers mean for you.

Cooking Heart-Healthy Desserts for the Holidays

.1351@3<8) ,6?2:1/ ;! $ #'&= * " 0+9+

Dr. Patricia Cole, cardiologist and chef, will demonstrate how to make desserts that are both heart-healthy and tasty. Plus, she’ll offer tips on how to strengthen your heart for improved health.

EVENTS HELD AT Mercy Heart and Vascular Hospital

#,$ '& 2-* !39931 )630 4 '.& 56+"1

Heart Smart – Managing Heart Valve Disease

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Could you be at risk for heart valve disease? Find out at this FREE event, featuring: # "1;,@ =;:=1 3?A1;A1 A5,114?4# %+2:1A@1,2: A5,114?4# ),1A14@;@?24A 86 :1;3?4- 0+6A?5?;4A ;82>@ +1;,@ =;:=1 disease and treatments # "1;,@*+1;:@+6 522<?4- 31724A@,;@?24 # !4/2,7;@?24 822@+A # %+;?, 7;AA;-1A # &43 7>5+ 72,1

St. John’s Mercy is now Mercy.

4

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2011

New Frontiers in Treating Atrial Fibrillation

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$2 62> 1901,?1451 ?,,1->:;,( /,1.>14@ +1;,@81;@A' !@ could be atrial fibrillation. Cardiologist J. Mauricio Sanchez, MD will explain what causes this disease and how it can be treated.

Vascular Disease Screening

7<?>/3<8) ,6?2:1/ ;% $ " <+9+ * 5225

An estimated 20 to 30 million Americans are at risk for vascular disease, including stroke, peripheral arterial disease, carotid artery disease and aortic aneurysms. With early detection, vascular disease can be treated effectively. Get your FREE screening during this community event.

Stroke is Not an Accident

4>1@3<8) ,6?2:1/ ;" $ #'&= * " 0+9+

Studies show that up to 80% of strokes can be prevented. Neurologist William R. Logan, MD will teach you how to reduce your risk and how to recognize and respond to signs of a stroke.

Strategies to Help Prevent Heart Disease

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Heart disease is a leading cause of death, but you can reduce your risk. Cardiologist Joseph Craft, MD will discuss prevention strategies and a Tai Chi exercise therapist will offer tips to help you get started.


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feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2011


Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2011

7


Keeping up with

CATCH THE

THe JOneSeS 70

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Jennifer Silverberg

ULTIMATE BUFFET

JONES HERITAGE FARM & MARkET

Head with us to and see for yourself why this pig is all grins. 8

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2011


Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

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52 from the staff

| 14 |

feaststl.com

What’s online this month.

| 16 |

from the PUBlIsher

Sweet Sunday mornings.

| 18 |

feast faVes

Our staff and contributors share inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis. colUmNs

| 32 |

my stUff

Learn how to lead a civil life from The Civil Life Brewing Co.’s Jake Hafner.

| 35 |

gadget a-go-go

We put five coffee grinders to the test.

| 36 |

oN the shelf

New and notable in beer, spirits and wine.

| 38 |

mystery shoPPer

Buy it and try it: sweet dumpling squash.

| 40 |

tech school

Get juicier, more flavorful results with salt-crusted baking.

| 42 |

FOOD, FIRED UP!

OCTOBER 2011

44

easy eats

A savory soufflé in a few simple steps.

| 82 |

PUll UP a chaIr

The Flo Chair offers up a wicked wicker design. COVER PHOTOGRAPHY OF GREAT LOCAL DONUTS (PG 52) BY Jonathan Gayman

the

BREW crew

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Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2011

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OCTOBER 2011

Saturday, Oct. 22 • 7–10pm Sunday, Oct. 23 • 1– 4pm RSVP please: 314-727-1345 or

info@oberandersongallery.com

14 N. Meramec Clayton, Missouri

Join us for a special uncrating party on October 14, 6 – 8pm. Recent works will be available for acquisition. Exhibition previews begin Saturday, October 15.

All Art © Peter Max 2011

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ROTHMAN HELPS YOU ENTERTAIN YOUR GUESTS IN STYLE WITH THESE BEAUTIFUL CLASSIC DINING SETS FROM BROYHILL.

löö;g <A;ø8ùù6÷

rothmanfurniture.com O’FALLON, MO

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SOUTH SIDE

636-978-3500

618-632-1700

314-968-5595

SOUTH COUNTY

DELLWOOD

ALTON

314-892-9002

314-388-0200

618-462-9770

Daily 10-8 Sunday 12-5 ólúölúl


11769 Manchester Road • Des Peres • MO • 63131

314-966-0800 • www.terrastl.com Good life inside and out

In Des Peres Commons next to Ace Hardware Mon-Fri 10am-7pm • Sat 9am-5pm • Sun 10am-5pm

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Magazine Volume 2

| Issue 10 | October 2011

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Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville

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Managing Editor Brandi Wills Online Editor Kristin Brashares

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Art Director Lisa Triefenbach

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µXJeJ³ &cJXgXøäî 221 Lamp & Lantern Village • Town & Country • MO • 63017

636-386-7733 • www.acestl.com

Inside of Rick's Ace Hardware Mon-Fri 7:30am-9pm • Sat 7:30am-7pm • Sun 9am-6pm

Vice President of Advertising Donna Bischoff Copy Editor Jill Pfeiffer Proofreader Sarah Baraba Videographer Hannah Radcliff Contributing Writers Nathaniel Bonner, Erin Callier, Russ Carr, Pat Eby Chad Michael George, Jennifer Johnson, Angela Ortmann Matt Seiter, Matt Sorrell, Michael Sweeney, Cassandra Vires Contributing Photographers Jonathan Gayman, Gregg Goldman, Tuan Lee, Laura Ann Miller Jonathan Pollack, Jennifer Silverberg, Corey Woodruff

Contact Us Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor St. Louis, MO 63101 feastSTL.com Advertising Inquiries Susan Eckert, 314.340.8587 ads@feastSTL.com Editorial Comments editor@feastSTL.com

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2011 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. A publication of Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC A Lee Enterprises Company Info @ stanleycigarco.com 12

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2011


KELLY ENGLISH IS COMING.

Make mental reservations now.

opening this fall

Know When To Stop Before You Start.® Gambling Problem? Call 1-888-BETSOFF. Must be 21 or older to participate, gamble or obtain a Total Rewards ® card. For more information call 314-770-8100. caesars.com ©2011, Caesars License Company, LLC.


ONLINE CONTENT

www.feastSTL.com

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

The Feed

Online Exclusives

This Month’s Feast

Watch & Listen

Feast Events

Recipes

Behind-The-Scenes Video

QUITE THE PAIR: Get out and about in the Central West End, and indulge in STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann’s wine-and-food pairings at the neighborhood’s restaurants. First up: Salt. Photography by J. Pollack Photography

Behind THE SCENES Get into the kitchen at Three Sixty with chef Rex Hale and

publisher Cat Neville to get his insight on why it’s best to source from local producers.

Online Features

TRAVELOGUE: Delight in some incredible dinners in Portland, Maine, with frequent-traveling FEAST reader Kathryn Adamchick in this photo essay.

CONNECT WITH US Connect with us at facebook.com/feastSTL to stay on top of happenings at FEAST Central and connect with fellow foodies. Scan this tag to LIKE us right now!

Photography BY Corey Woodruff

Online FEATURES

Follow us at twitter.com/feastmag for up-to-the-minute restaurant news, special deals, FEAST events and more. KING OF THE HILL: Sandwich-loving photographer Corey Woodruff

Scan this tag to FOLLOW us right now!

heads to one of St. Louis’ best-loved foodie neighborhoods – The Hill – and walks out with six seriously tasty subs. Get the free app at gettag.mobi

14

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2011


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15


FROM THE PUBLISHER

T

PS

FEAST EVENTS

Feast Your Eyes Sat., Oct. 1, 11am; Contemporary Art Museum

This free program invites you into the museum for a tasting hosted by Franco’s Chris Williams. The menu is inspired by the exhibitions and is paired with local wine and cocktails.

urns out Jake Hafner, the “captain of the barley ship” at the newly opened The Civil Life Brewing Co., and I have something in common. When I interviewed him for our My Stuff column (p. 32), I asked him what he’d do with a Sunday if he didn’t have any obligations. He said the first thing he’d do is watch Sunday Morning on CBS. I watch very little TV, but on a relaxed Sunday morning, that’s exactly what I like to do: pour myself a cup of hot coffee, plop on the sofa and watch what I consider to be one of TV’s best magazine shows. The only thing that can improve that laid-back moment is a bagful of fried happiness from John Donuts. (My absolute favorite is the cinnamon-sugar cake donut on page 54.) Donuts and coffee are made for each other, and we paired up some of St. Louis’ best donuts with locally roasted java for our cover story this month (p. 52). Now that fall is here, mornings are crisp and custom-made for steaming mugs of aromatic coffee. It’s the perfect excuse to seek out locally roasted beans. Roasters big and small are peppered throughout our region, just like our favorite neighborhood donut shops. Donuts and coffee: Life’s pleasures don’t get simpler, or more enjoyable, than that. Until next time,

Maplewood’s Arts & Eats Walk + 2nd Annual Fiddle Fest Fri., Oct. 7, 6 to 9pm; Downtown Maplewood

Stroll through Maplewood as fiddlers play and food purveyors offer food and drink specials to passersby.

Wine Tasting Thu., Oct. 20, 6 to 7pm; Salt Complimentary, rsvp@stlwinegirl.com

Join columnist Angela Ortmann for a food-andwine tasting at Salt.

Feast Book Club Meet-Up Mon., Oct. 24, 6 to 7pm; Robust

Sommelier Jennifer Johnson will discuss The Wild Vine by Todd Kliman, which chronicles the history of the Norton grape. Enjoy free hors d’oeuvres, conversation and wine specials. Pick up your copy of the book at Left Bank Books or at left-bank.com and get 20 percent off!

L’Ecole Academy Wine Styles and Production Class Oct. 24 and 25, 5:30 to 9:30pm; L’Ecole Academy $160, lecoleacademy.com or 314.587.2433

Get an in-depth look into the three wine styles: still, sparkling and fortified. Understand fermentation practices, production techniques and regions common to these methods.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Wed., Oct. 26, 6pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $40, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Think you can’t make a soufflé? Think again! Join us for this hands-on class and make the potato and cheese soufflé on page 42.

Just Like Mom Used to Make Wed., Nov. 2, 6pm; Truffles $150, todayattruffles.com or 314.567.9100

Chef John Griffiths brings together St. Louis’ leading chefs for a six-course dinner to benefit the ALS Association and Hope Happens. Each chef will create dishes inspired by his childhood.

Catherine Neville

Oceania Luxury Culinary Cruise May 6 to 17, 2012, from $3,799 per person; altairtravelinc.com

Join publisher Catherine Neville on a 10-day luxury cruise from Istanbul to Venice with ports of call ranging from Athens to Ephesus.

Cat’s Picks Tune in as FEAST publisher Catherine Neville chats with host McGraw Milhaven and gives her weekly picks for the best places to eat and drink in the St. Louis area. feedback?

catherine@feaststl.com 16

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2011

PHOTOGRAPHy by Tuan Lee

Wednesdays, 8:35am; The BIG 550 KTRS


All Stores Locally Owned www.oreckstore.com/stl 7 ST. LOUIS METRO AREA LOCATIONS MANCHESTER.................... Manchester Rd. E/141 across from Starbuck.........636-391-8600 SUNSET HILLS ................... Lindbergh & Watson near Home Depot ..................314-821-5066 LADUE................................ Ladue Rd. & I-170 next to Maggie Moo's...............314-726-5505 ST. PETERS ........................ 94 & Mid Rivers Mall Dr. /94 Crossing ...................636-928-9474 CHESTERFIELD VALLEY..... Chesterfield Commons Near Lowe's......................636-519-8400 FENTON.............................. Gravois bluffs/behind Walgreens ...........................636-326-9972 SWANSEA .......................... Rte. 159/1 Blk. S. of Outback Steak House ............618-235-1969

St. Louis’ HOMETOWN Vodka Final cocktail contest tasting and judging on

NOVEMBER 4TH at

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PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY

©2011 Pearl® Vodka, 40% Alc./Vol. (80 Proof). Flavored Vodkas 35% Alc./Vol. (70 Proof). Owned and bottled by Pearl Spirits/Luxco, Inc., St. Louis, MO

Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2011

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FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

Three Sixty

Step inside the elevator at Hilton St. Louis at the ballpark and ride to the very top of the hotel. Now, step out on the 26th floor and take in the view. but don’t get so enthralled with the scenery that you forget the food and drinks. Chef Rex Hale sources ingredients as locally as possible when crafting his flavorful dishes, designed to be shared and paired with wine, beer or one of the bar’s signature drinks. Korean barbecued-pork tacos are topped with spicy kimchi and a cool cucumber salad. Chicken spiedini is given an update at Three Sixty. Here, the tender white-meat chicken roulade, stuffed with garlic, Parmesan and herbs, is cooked sous vide and served sliced atop raw salad greens. Pizzas aren’t to be missed. The wild mushroom pie features fungi from Ozark Forest Mushrooms, and the sausage pizza sports Salume beddu finocchiona and coppa. Our favorite item, however, is the roasted barbecue oysters, cooked on the half shell and dripping with melted butter. Toast all this good food (and the unparalleled view) with a craft cocktail: try Murder on the Dance Floor (rum, roasted strawberries, vanilla, lemon, Champagne and hibiscus water) or the Purps (blackberries, balsamic syrup, bourbon, lime juice and soda). If you have one too many cocktails, you can always book one of the hotel’s equally sophisticated rooms. – C.N. 1 S. broadway, Downtown 360-stl.com

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DOWNTOWN

PHOTOGRAPHy by Corey Woodruff

A FRESH PERSPECTIVE

314.241.8439

EXCLUSIVE VIDEO! Meet chef Hale and get an inside peek at how he designed

Three Sixty’s menu. Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone (get the free app at gettag.mobi), or watch the video in the Watch & Listen section at feastSTL.com.


FEAST FAVES / s e C r e t I n g r e d I e n t FEAST FAVES | what we’re drInkIng

Sonoma Zinfandel wrITTen by Jennifer Johnson

Zinfandel has been grown in California since the 1830s and has found an ideal home in Sonoma, benefiting from its warm days and cool, maritime-influenced nights. It has regained recognition as California’s claret after the rise and decline of “white Zin,” a sweet pink made from Zinfandel grapes, but bearing little resemblance to true Zinfandel. Difficult to grow and identical to Italy’s Primitivo, Zinfandel is thin-skinned, is prone to disease and must be picked precisely at harvest. This compelling grape produces a diverse range of medium- to fullbodied styles that are full of impact, characterized by pepper, spice and bramble fruits. Zinfandel pairs beautifully with barbecue, Mexican food and strong cheeses, enhancing these foods’ flavors with its own unique mélange of spice, depth and power.

peZZi KinG Vineyards ZinfandeL 2008

Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, Calif. The acid-tannin balance on this full-bodied wine is striking, with aromas of fresh-cracked black pepper, dark berries, plums and a touch of port-like dried fruit. The palate offers cherries, cola, dark chocolate and additional spiceclove notes. Pair with a big, juicy hamburger with a thick slice of Cheddar and homemade chunky ketchup on a brioche bun. $18.99; Kaya’s Import Wine and Liquor, 4117 Union Road, Oakville, kayasimport.com

Murphy-Goode Liar’s dice ZinfandeL 2008

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Mon. - Sat. 6 am - 7 pm Sun. 7:30 am - 2:30 pm

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13700 Olive Blvd.

Sonoma County, Calif. The appeal of this medium-bodied Zinfandel is in its moderation of impact, with restrained black pepper notes, jammy wild raspberry aromas, ripe plums and vanilla bean. An elegant, substantial and soft finish brings to mind toasty coconut. Pair with brown sugar and bourbon ribs, red-chile chicken enchiladas and crispy stuffed olives.

(314) 894-0900

www.mcarthurs.com “When you want to serve the very best.”

$15.99; Starrs, 1135 S. Big Bend Blvd., Richmond Heights, starrs1.com

Expires 11/30/11

Expires 11/30/11

Expires 11/30/11

A St. Louis-based wine and food enthusiast, Jennifer Johnson is a sommelier, wine educator, journalist and hospitality and marketing consultant who loves to celebrate life, family, food and wine Expires 11/30/11

Expires 11/30/11

Inspired Food Culture

Expires 11/30/11

OCTOBER 2011

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FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

fiala’s new room “‘You really ought to do something with that back room,’ has been the suggestion of many caring customers at Liluma since we opened. Let’s make it simple, fun and fresh. I haven’t described the dishes, so you must just trust me. I promise you’ll like them all.” – Jim Fiala And you will. you’ll just have to trust us. Fiala has taken what he loves about Italian restaurants – and one small, happy place in Florence in particular – and turned a little-used corner of Liluma into the Side Door. Here, wines are $12 to $15 a bottle. There are red-and-white checked cloths on the tables. Snapshots of Fiala’s journeys through Italy pepper the walls, and nothing on the menu costs more than $10. Classic American foods, like fried bologna, peas and carrots, and surf-n-turf, are given playful reinvention. The fried bologna is actually chunks of mortadella wrapped in prosciutto, fried and drizzled with balsamic vinegar. The peas and carrots dish is in the “pillows” section of the menu. It features freshly made ravioli and is a carrot-filled puff of pasta sauced with a delicate pea purée. Other pillows to try include Ducks in a Lake, where duck-confit-filled pasta floats in a rich, trufflescented duck broth. And the surf-n-turf? Not what you think. It’s perfectly seasoned, grilled shrimp served atop juicy grilled watermelon. It’s an unexpectedly delicious combination, and that’s what makes it so fun. – C.N.

Liluma’s Side Door 314.361.7771 CENTRAL WEST END

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jonathan Gayman

236 N. Euclid Ave, Central West End fialafood.com

FEAST FAVES

| MeeT & greeT

howie Sher

WRITTEN by Pat Eby

St. Louisan Howie Sher is going head-to-head with the big guys in snack foods with a new brand, What-A-ya-Nuts?! With snazzy packaging, spot-on humor and all-natural ingredients the four zany flavors of tasty nut clusters have already caught nibblers’ attention. Not an easy nut to crack, but Sher’s 20 years of experience in the grocery business gave him a good whack at it.

Long before the first turquoise talk bubble shouted “What-A-ya-Nuts? ! ,” he’d crafted a solid business plan. He enlisted friends and longtime business associates in the project, too. Like What-A-ya-Nuts?! on Facebook. Follow them on Twitter. you won’t find a website because Sher’s about connections, interaction and, of course, nuttiness. PHOTOGRAPHy by

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J. Pollack Photography


FEAST FAVES / s e C r e t I n g r e d I e n t FEAST FAVES | FOOd stUFF

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| 1 | Tartuflanghe black truffle sea salt, $19.95 (100 g); Sur LaTable, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.com | 2 | Smoked bacon chipotle and habanero sea salt, $9.99 (4.5 oz); Di Olivas, multiple locations, diolivas.com | 3 | Falksalt wild mushroom salt, sold in bulk for $1.88 per oz; Extra Virgin An Olive Ovation, 143 Ritz Carlton Dr., Clayton, extravirginoo.com

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Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2011

21


Great Window of Opportunity to Enhance your Financial Freedom ©0& 5 È d $j dj +l (d ( d05j ]0 2 + (j) d $j b5.+0$jl 2l +j ž o_ l0Ì2 (0 2j + db)(0+bo ]j$j])ò Mh È0&Õ+j (b+jl 0h žjb2f a&)( 20(dj+ 2&5žj+ ( 02j 0h (dj ‹bf ‹ 2_)÷ fb$j &) o ]]a ˆ055j+ob ] ‹ 2_ b) ]0o ]]Èô0Ì2jl ˆ055&2b(È ‹ 2_ Ìdj+j j$j+Èž0lÈ _20Ì) È0&+ 2 5ja

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Celebrating 5 Years of BBQ, Booze, and Blues!

• $5 Menu Items All Month

• Retro Magic Hat Bike Giveaway benefiting Lindbergh and Webster Groves High School Bands. • Miller Cup BBQ Championship 10.23.11 with Zydeco Crawdaddies 34 South Old Orchard Ave., Webster Groves - (314) 968-0061

Hwy61Roadhouse.com Joe the butcher says... y

4324 Weber Rd., St. Louis, MO. 314-631-2440

Bratwurst...an American Summertime Favorite KENRICK’S IS A PROUD SPONSOR AND VENDOR OF

WO2HwpFnpE2 hE y ?9é?ô ry* npE2h.yM hI [pFKyI* w02 *H0 rHIÉ2 jy.p 2H wp hI [pFKyI* 2H GyF2yOp hI 2jp npE2h.h2hpEë ZI O2ë XH0hE ,p jy.p H0F H,I WO2HwpFnpE2 hI X*HIE VyFO w* 2jp wFp,pF* nFHK Wu2HwpF 6éóë MH0 ,hMM (hIr YpIFhuOE 2jpFp lFhMMhIl yMHIl ,h2j GMpI2* Hn wppF yIr lHHr 2hKpE nHF nyKhM* yIr nFhpIrEë öphIl [pFKyIî WO2HwpFnpE2 hE HIp Hn K* ny.HFh2p 2hKpE Hn 2jp *pyFî IH2 Q0E2 nHF 2jp wppF w02 yMEH wpuy0Ep Hn 2jp lFpy2 nHHr yIr npE2h.yM n0Ië NFyrh2hHIyM [pFKyI WO2HwpFnpE2 nHHrE hIuM0rpî EKHOpr jyK jHuOEî GFp2)pMEî GH2y2H GyIuyOpEî Ey0EylpE yIr Ey0pFOFy02ë Here is a list of the homemade sausaages made in Kenrick's very own sausage kitchen:

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Kraut Ribs for an

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ng pan . In a fryi . In the rib bones ed dividual l ribs are brown in e t on av h stock po that you edium heat unti d er into a e ribs so ONS: ts of wat oked Kielbasa an and ok on m o ne of th ar C o u b q DIRECTI s. 2 b ch , and e sm juice and ri een ea g, drain pepper, ed onion rowned,combin n , p Cut betw lt p ki o o sa , ch co aut, perfect garlic done are b combine combine sauerkr eat. Once ribs d for the rs. When tato sala e, 2 - 3 hou mh m Po 1/ iu ti 2 n an ed r m ea m fo m er d at low to e with G k covere the stove e stock pot. Coo sauerkraut. Serv th of the ed b ribs into a . p eat ato perience serve m erfest ex c Oktob authenti

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Apple Bratwurst Bacon Cheeseburger Bavarian Bratwurst Beer Bratwurst Breakfast Sausage Chicken Cordon Bleu Chicken with Roasted Peppers and Garlic Green Pepper & Onion Sausage Hungarian Sausage Irish Bangers Jambalaya Bratwurst Jalapeno & Cheddar Bratwurst

Jalapeno & Cheddar Mardi Gras Sausage Mushroom Swiss Bratwurst Pizza Supreme Bratwurst Italian Saziza Smoked Andouille Smoked Garlic Summer Sausage Smoked Polish Sausage Spinach Bratwurst Turkey Bratwurst Turkey Saziza Wine and Cheese Saziza Smoked Apple Maple

Chicken Sausage Smoked Jalapeno & Cheddar Chicken Bratwurst Smoked Chicken Bratwurst Smoked Cheddar Bratwurst Smoked Apple Maple Bratwurst Smoked Bavarian Bratwurst Smoked Jalapeno & Cheddar Bratwurst

Try them All!

"Celebrate your Oktoberfest with Kenricks" "C


FEAST FAVES

| whAT we’re drInkIng

Ping Pong STORy And RECIPE by Matt Seiter

This classic cocktail has a significant attachment to St. Louis. It was created in 1903 by James G. bennet at the broken Heart Café, once located at 16 S. broadway. It’s featured in the old bar books Barflies and Cocktails (1927), Savoy Cocktail Book (1930), Bartender’s Guide by Trader Vic (1947) and various other old relics. Sweet, tart and surprisingly refreshing, it’s a great starter or finisher. The liqueurs used in this drink are quite interesting. Sloe gin isn’t, as you might suspect, a type of gin. In fact, it’s a liqueur, meaning that by law it can contain a certain percentage of sugar per liter. Typically, sloe gins are between 15 percent and 30 percent alcohol. Sloe gin is a lighter spirit – weaker if you will – that’s flavored with sloe berries, a type of small plum. When it comes to sloe gins, The bitter Truth is one of the most popular brands available in our market. However, if you happen to have a bottle of Plymouth Sloe Gin, use it. In my opinion, it’s the best sloe gin you’ll find. Violette is a liqueur made from several flowers found in the Swiss Alps, with violets being the primary ingredient. There are three products I’m aware of that are recreations of the original Violette: Rothman & Winter’s Crème de Violette, The bitter Truth’s Violet Liqueur and Crème yvette. The first two are now available in St. Louis. The other, which is produced by the same people who make St. Germain elderflower liqueur, should be available locally in the future. Equal proportions of these two liqueurs, combined with lemon juice, create a beautiful combination of flavors and complexities that hits every area of the tongue. All in all, the Ping Pong is quite the crowd pleaser.

Ping Pong

Serves | 1 |

Laura Ann Miller

1 oz 1 oz ½ oz

The Bitter Truth Violet Liqueur The Bitter Truth Sloe Gin fresh lemon juice lemon peel, for garnish

| Preparation | Pour all ingredients into a shaker. Add ice, shake and fine strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a twist of lemon peel.

PHOTOGRAPHy by

Matt Seiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the National Board for the USBG’s MA program and is a continuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft of mixology. He is a member of Drink Lab and is the creator of the Sanctuaria Cocktail Club.

BArTender knOwLedge now, For the rest of the Bottle Crème de violette and sloe gin are great liqueurs to stock in your bar. Although they aren’t staples for mixing – and I don’t know of any other drinks where they appear together – they have many tasty applications. Crème de violette’s floral, sweet and seductive qualities really stand out in the Aviation, a classic cocktail made from a beautiful blend of gin, lemon juice, maraschino and crème de violette. If you prefer something on the drier side, try the Attention, a pastis-rinsed glass

filled with gin, dry vermouth and a touch of the purple stuff, garnished with a lemon peel. This lively liqueur also translates well to food. Take a scoop of butter pecan ice cream, sprinkle with cocoa powder and pour on an ounce of crème de violette in lieu of chocolate sauce. you won’t be disappointed. Sloe gin is, of course, the star of a Sloe Gin Fizz. but this tart, invigorating, classic liqueur can’t be pigeonholed. It’s great in a number of cocktails. One of my favorites is the Modern Cocktail no. 2, a blend of scotch, sloe gin, absinthe, orange bitters and grenadine. you could also try a Charlie Chaplin, a favorable affair consisting of equal parts sloe gin, apricot liqueur and lime juice. And, on the culinary side, next time you make peach pie, toss an ounce or so of sloe gin into the mix to give this sweet treat a touch of tartness. – M.S.

Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2011

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FEAST FAVES

| deSign TrendS we Love

Flexible lighting

$199 per chandelier (two pictured); image courtesy of cb2.com

If you’ve befriended us on Facebook, you know first-hand that we take a lot of pictures of food. At restaurants, at culinary classes and events, at outdoor gatherings, you name it. And we’ve learned that no matter how beautifully presented and expertly plated the dish, it won’t look its best without good lighting. Which is why we’re excited about flexible lighting designs that allow you to position the bulbs where you want them for maximum effect, casting a lovely glow on centerpiece dishes and gorgeous dining designs. We’re particular fans of the 3.0 Chandelier from CB2 (pictured), with its dramatic industrial construction, exposed black cord and hinged arms that offer endless angling options. Now, when we serve up dinner it will instantly look as pretty as the pictures in the magazines. Right? – B.W.

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Laura Ann Miller

FEAST FAVES / S ecreT ingredienT FEAST FAVES | THe diSH

PHOTOGRAPHY BY

Fozzie’s Black Bean Burger

COnTRIBuTOR’S PICk

Laura Ann Miller

My idea of the ultimate vegetarian burger is the black bean burger from Fozzie’s Sandwich Emporium. Its housemade black bean patty is topped with field greens, roasted peppers, caramelized onions and roasted garlic mayo and is served on a whole-wheat bun. The texture is perfect. It’s not too spicy but not too mild. It fills you up. And, best of all, it stands the true test of any veggie burger – it’s even great without cheese! You can add cheese if you’d like, but the great flavor holds up well on its own. And be sure to get Fozzie’s homemade Fozzie’s chips as a side to this Sandwich mouth-watering burger.

Emporium 314.932.5414 Richmond heights See more of Laura’s work in this month’s cocktail column (pg. 23), Gadget-A-Go-Go (pg. 35) and online at feastSTL.com.

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1170 S. Big Bend Blvd., Richmond Heights foodatfozzies.com


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ISTANBUL TO VENICE MAY 6, 2012 | 10 DAY-VOYAGE onboard Riviera Istanbul, Turkey • Mytilini (Lesvos), Greece • Ephesus (Kusadasi), Turkey • Mykonos, Greece • Athens (Piraeus), Greece *Offers expire August 31, 2011. All advertised fares, offers and any applicable shipboard credits, upgrades or special amenities shown are per person based on double occupancy unless otherwise indicated, are subject to availability at time of booking, may not be combinable with other offers, are capacity controlled and may be withdrawn without prior notice or remain in effect after the expiration date. All fares listed are in U.S. dollars, per person, based on double occupancy and include Non-Commissionable Fares. Cruise related Government Fees and Taxes of up to $15 per guest per day are additional. For itineraries shown with multiple departures, sailing prices may vary and any “Fares From” pricing is based on Category G unless otherwise indicated. Cruise Ship Fuel Surcharge may apply and, if applicable, is additional revenue to Oceania Cruises. Full Brochure Fares may not have resulted in actual sales in all cabin categories, may not have been in effect during the last 90 days and do not include Personal Charges, Optional Facilities and Services Fees as defined in the Terms and Conditions of the Guest Ticket Contract which may be viewed at OceaniaCruises.com. Full Brochure Fares are cruise only. Airfare does not include ground transfers and applies to economy, round-trip flights only from St. Louis. Airfare is available from all other U.S. & Canadian gateways at an additional charge. Any advertised fares Airfare airline fees, surcharges and government taxes. Some airline-imposed personal charges, including but not limited to baggage, priority boarding, and special seating, may apply. “Free 1-Night Pre-Cruise Hotel” offer, if applicable, does not include items other than room rate, hotel taxes, hotel porterage and hotel to ship transfers; hotel assignments are solely at the discretion of Oceania Cruises, may be changed at any time, and will be confirmed in final cruise documentation. Oceania Cruises reserves the right to correct errors or omissions and to change any and all fares, fees, and surcharges at any time. Suite and Stateroom measurements are approximate, and those in the same category may vary in size. They may also have different furniture placement than as depicted in the photographs. Additional terms and conditions may apply. Complete terms and conditions may be found in the Guest Ticket Contract. Ships’ Registry: Marshall Islands. PRO27809

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Argostoli (Cephalonia), Greece • Corfu, Greece • Dubrovnik, Croatia • Split, Croatia • Venice, Italy overnight

CALL THE OCEANIA CRUISES SPECIALISTS AT ALTAIR TRAVEL & CRUISES TODAY (314) 968-9600 OR TOLL FREE (800) 264-1116

Join me for a 10-day luxury cruise from Istanbul to Venice with fabulous ports of call ranging from Ephesus to Athens. Share the flavors, sights and sounds with me during this incredible journey. Sailing with Oceania Cruises onboard Riviera, a brand-new ship that is one of the first cruise ships designed for food lovers. There are 10 dining venues onboard. Throughout the trip, we'll eat and drink together and you can even join me as I teach cooking classes on board; the ship's Bon Appetit Culinary Center is the only hands-on cooking school at sea. You'll be seduced by the sights, sounds and flavors of each port city's culture and find a rejuvenating, sophisticated retreat every night while aboard the ship. I'll see you onboard!


FEAST FAVES

| shop-o-matIC

The Charles P. Stanley Cigar Co. and Lounge 314.436.3500 Downtown

sips ‘n’ smokes Although you might enjoy St. Louis’ smokefree restaurants and bars, it’s nice to know there’s somewhere to go if you’re in the mood for a good cigar. With cozy leather seating and a lively hum of conversation, The Charles P. Stanley Cigar Co. and Lounge is a warm, relaxing place to indulge in a high-quality smoke. The company started in 1876 as a cigar retailer, selling to a “who’s-who” list of clients, including President Ulysses S. Grant and Sir Arthur Sullivan. In March 2011, co-owners Charles Patrick Stanley III and Kevin O’Reilly Stanley picked up where their great-grandfather left off nearly 75 years

ago and opened up shop on Washington Avenue. They offer a fine selection of cigars to a sophisticated clientele. The Downtown lounge carries more than 1,000 faces from 100 brands, stored in a 300-square-foot walkin humidor, in addition to a large selection of single malt scotches, cognacs and port. The full bar also serves beer, wine and spirits. On a brisk fall night, you’d do well choosing The Stanley Cigar Lounge as your spot to relax with a scotch, a smoke and good friends. – B.W. 1000 Washington Ave., Suite C, Downtown stanleycigarco.com

| 1 | The Rocky Patel Decade cigar with Glenmorangie Original single malt scotch. “The Rocky Patel has a smooth, creamy taste that complements the honey, citrus, vanilla and almond notes found in the Glenmorangie.” | 2 | The Alec bradley Tempus (robusto) cigar with The Macallan 12-year single malt scotch. “This is a bolder, more flavorful cigar with a bit of spice to it. It’s balanced nicely by the bold Macallan scotch, which has been aged in sherry [seasoned] oak casks.” | 3 | The Ashton VSG (torpedo) cigar with Talisker 10-year single malt scotch. “The Ashton is a medium- to mild-bodied Dominican that’s sweet, smooth and spicy. I love it with the alluringly sweet and warming Talisker.” – B.W.

|1|

|2|

PHOTOGRAPHy by Laura Ann Miller

Charles patrICk stanley III reCommends three CIgar and sCotCh paIrIngs:

|3|

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FEAST FAVES

| what we’re buyIng

Coffee Tables

What’s more beautiful than a freshly brewed cup of coffee first thing in the morning? A cool table on which to set your mug.

– B.W.

|1|

|2|

|3|

|5| |4|

| 1 | Carved wood coffee table, $299; West Elm, westelm.com | 2 | B&B Italia

|6|

Surface coffee table, $2,702 to $5,264 (based on size and finish); Centro Modern Furnishings, 4727 McPherson Ave., Central West End, centro-inc.com | 3 | Eva Zeisel coffee table, $1,500; Design Within Reach, dwr.com | 4 | Tom Dixon Link table, $580 (small) and $1,160 (large); Centro Modern Furnishings | 5 | Railroad tie coffee table, $498; Viva Terra, vivaterra.com | 6 | Aviator coffee table, $995; Restoration Hardware, St. Louis Galleria, Richmond Heights, restorationhardware.com

Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2011

31


MY STUFF

JAke HAFner

CapTain Of ThE BaRlEy ship aT ThE Civil lifE BREwing CO.

WRITTEN BY Catherine Neville

How’d you come up with the name? My friend, the famous photographer Tuan Lee, came up with the name. We were searching feverishly for the right name and couldn’t come to a consensus between Dylan Mosley (our brewer), Mike Bianco (our assistant brewer) and myself. ... My friend, tattoo artist Joe Allhoff, then put it into a superb logo. Lesson: Surround yourself with good, talented people. How would you describe the beers you’re brewing at Civil Life? We are focusing on beers in the four to six percent alcohol range and are searching for that sweet spot where balanced flavors meld together. ... If you are looking for the next extreme example of lava rock-Spanish fly-wattleseed-albatross flying-over hopped 12 percent ale, you won’t be finding it here, but if you’re looking for a beer you can slip into like a conversation with an old friend, we’re your game. How do you see Civil Life fitting into the craft beer scene in St. Louis? Quite nicely. My second grade report card comments read, “plays well with others.” Each of the new craft brewers have become great friends, and we all are united in a common purpose. Why are people getting into brewing? You can make great beer in your kitchen, and creating good things to consume is good for the soul. At the end of the day, what is your go-to? The Civil Life brown ale, simply the most delicious beer we’ve made. But on those days when I feel the need, I have a nice cellar of “getting” older German Riesling which is to be carefully administered over the next 20 years. Next week the beer will change but the Riesling will not. What’s in your fridge right now? Embarrassingly, it’s true that I had to move in with my parents to open this brewery. Turns out opening a brewery takes massive loans, four credit cards and long but immensely enjoyable work hours. Luckily, my mom is a great cook and what’s for dinner last night becomes my lunch the next day or my midnight snack. So I don’t own a fridge or a house but I do own a 500-square-foot cooler filled with 150 kegs of beer, so life’s not so bad. 32

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2011

The Civil Life Brewing Co., 3714 Holt Ave., South City, thecivillifebrewingcompany.com Visit feastSTL.com for the full interview with Jake Hafner.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Gregg Goldman

What’s more civilized than beer? Humans have been brewing beer in some form for thousands of years, and the recent craft-brewing surge is a welcome development in the libation’s evolution. “The taste revolution began in food over 10 years ago and … was delayed in beer because it was largely dominated by megabrewers,” says Jake Hafner, owner of newly opened The Civil Life Brewing Co. “We are now seeing the convergence of years of hard work in the culinary industry getting people to understand taste, and the simple truth is that things taste better close to home.”


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Put to the teSt

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|5| |3|

COFFEE

GRINDERS WrITTEN By pat eby

PHoTogrAPHy By Laura ann Miller

|1|

|2|

|3|

|4|

|5|

KitchenAid Blade Coffee Grinder

Proctor Silex durable Coffee Grinder

Norpro Adjustable hand Crank Coffee Grinder

Mr. Coffee IdS77 Coffee Grinder

Capresso “Cool Grind” Coffee & Spice Grinder

PROS

PROS

PROS

PROS

PROS

Start-to-finish, it’s the easiest grinder to use with the biggest capacity. Pour whole beans directly into the cup to pre-measured marks. The grind activates by pressing down on the top of the cover rather than a single button, a kindness for tired hands. Throw the twist-off cup and cover in soapy water or run through the dishwasher, top rack only, for the simplest cleanup of all.

The short, slender machine puts out evenly ground beans quickly without much fuss. The maximum capacity of one-half cup coffee beans filled the grinding chamber to the top, but the beans ground evenly and didn’t overtop the chamber or fly all over the counter when the lid was lifted. Small price, too, for an electric grinder.

This inexpensive burr grinder operates with no heat build-up. Nada. The ceramic gear-like action produced the most consistent grind of any machine tested, from fine-as-powder to solidly respectable coarse grounds. Nothing old-fashioned about this grinder except the kitschy design of the housing.

The Darth Vader of coffee grinders, two buttons on this sleek, black machine glow green when you plug it in. you choose the grind, fine to coarse, on one button and the number of cups, four to 12, on the other. Fill the grinding cup with whole beans, push the start button and relax. The grinder stops automatically.

Even after grinding two large batches of beans within minutes, the grinding chamber stayed cool to the touch. The cooler the grind, the more flavor in the coffee. Dependable grind, too, from fine to coarse.

CONS

CONS

CONS

Not for the super-size coffee household, but a fine grinder for one or two modest coffee lovers. The retractable cord, a desirable feature, doesn’t retract as easily as it pulls out.

Not so easy to crank. Four long minutes of consistent cranking to achieve its maximum output, one-third cup, at the finest grind. Both arms felt the burn from holding down the box and turning the handle. Whole beans stuck in the space between the bowl and the grinders. Cleanup takes time.

The noise level on this grinder far exceeds Vader’s throaty rumbles. The lid and chamber rotate on and off in a precise order, which locks everything in place for safety. But it’s tedious. Some pre-set cycles didn’t process the beans to a consistent grind. Chamber Maid, a cleaning feature, didn’t sweep grounds clean from the sides of the cup, not even close.

CONS

At full capacity, the grind runs a bit uneven, finer at the bottom and coarser at the top. Smaller amounts grind evenly. $32.99; Target, multiple locations, target.com

$16.99; Schnucks, select locations, schnucks.com

$15.29; Di Gregorio Market, 5200 Daggett Ave., The Hill, digregoriofoods.com

CONS

The instruction manual lacks specificity, with no quantities or grind times. Cleanup is tedious. The manufacturer calls for a wipe down with a damp cloth for all pieces, even the plastic lid. $24.99; Bertarelli Cutlery Inc., 1927 Marconi Ave., The Hill, bertarellicutlery.com

$19.99; Kmart, multiple locations, kmart.com

Che

W hAt to l oo K For : Blade vs. burr: Most coffee grinders that cost less than $40 use stainless steel blades to cut and chop whole beans into grounds. Heat builds up on the blades and in the grinding chamber of these grinders, which can damage the aroma and taste of the coffee. Burr grinders grind beans between a stationary surface and a moving, grinding surface. These grinders produce consistent grounds – from powdery fine to coarse – with no burn or heat. Hand-cranked burr grinders, sometimes called biceps grinders for the effort expended, are priced for any budget. Capacity: For the single person who likes a little hit of coffee, grinders with one-half cup maximum capacity or less would be a

good choice. Eight- to 12-cuppers should shoot for large capacity grinders: three-quarter cups or more per grind. Safety features: Check for locking lids to keep grounds from flying around your kitchen. Look for buttons with a quick turn-off feature. Most grinders will stop within 10 seconds of releasing the button. Cleanup: Coffee grinders don’t take well to dunks in water. Some have removable cups and lids that can be immersed in hot water or run through the dishwasher on the top rack. If cleaning with little more than a damp cloth bothers you, check the cleaning directions before you buy.

Ck pag out e

Pickoneofthesegrinders 52 ! toperkupyourmorningcup ofjoe.Forsomegreatlocalroasts, turntoourDonutsandCoffeefeature. Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2011

35


ON the shelF

BEER wriTTen By Michael Sweeney

SPIRITS

The creator of STLHops.com and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the Craft Beer Manager at Lohr Distributing.

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

Ferguson Brewing Co.’s Pumpkin Ale Style: Pumpkin Beer (4.9% abv) available at: Ferguson Brewing Co., 418 S. Florissant Road, Ferguson, fergusonbrewing.com; $4.50 (16-oz draught) Pairing: New York-style cheesecake

i’m akin to goldilocks when it comes to pumpkin beers. Sometimes there’s too much spice or not enough richness to satisfy my palate. But Ferguson Brewing co. has created a pumpkin beer that’s just right. This beer has a big, almost silky mouth feel that’s impressive for a beer that’s low in alcohol. The pumpkin spicing really shines through, making me happy it’s fall again.

Firestone Walker Brewing Co.’s Double Jack Style: American Imperial IPA (9.5% abv) available at: International Tap House, both locations, internationaltaphouse.com; $7.19 carry-out (22-oz bottle), $12 at the bar PairingS: Sharp Cheddar • Pepperoni pizza

The aroma of tropical fruits, such as mangos and pineapple, provide a sultry backdrop to this big iPa from Firestone walker Brewing co. if the aroma is seductive, then the taste is downright ravishing. This is a big, bold brew with a strong hop bite that interplays well with a healthy dose of malt. This is an absolutely beguiling beer that will have you coming back for more.

Gasthaus & Gosebrauerei Bayerischer Bahnhof’s leipziger Gose Style: Gose (4.6% abv) available at: The Wine & Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, wineandcheeseplace.com; $16.99 (750-ml bottle) PairingS: Oysters • Bratwurst

it always fascinates me to see the number of takes different cultures have on wheat beer. i can promise you a gose is like no other wheat beer you’ve had before. Like most of its wheat brethren, it’s very refreshing. what sets this one apart is a slightly salty, almost briny characteristic that complements the dryness of the beer.

wriTTen By Chad Michael George

Dry Fly Washington Wheat Vodka Provenance: Spokane, Wash. (40% abv) available at: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $32.99 try it: On the rocks

Three impressive Dry Fly Distilling spirits have landed in St. Louis. The award-winning distillery’s vodka is smooth, with a touch of sweetness and hints of vanilla and strawberry. unlike most smaller distilleries, Dry Fly Distilling ferments its own grain. i guess that’s why its vodka has more character than many others. Try it on the rocks to really taste the subtle sweetness and smooth finish unadulterated.

Dry Fly Washington Dry Gin Provenance: Spokane, Wash. (40% abv) available at: Friar Tuck, multiple locations, friartuckonline.com; $37.99 try it: With soda and lime or in a Negroni

This is a quality product, indeed. But a classic gin it is not. Juniper, generally the calling card of gin, seems fairly absent. instead, expect apple, pear, lime and pepper, with just a hint of christmastree pine. a gateway gin, this is a great bottling if think you don’t like the spirit. instead of tonic, try it with a splash of soda and a lime twist. Or use it in a negroni. Just add equal parts Dry Fly gin, campari and sweet vermouth over rocks and top with a lemon twist.

Dry Fly Washington Wheat Whiskey Provenance: Spokane, Wash. (40% abv) available at: Lukas Liquor, 15921 Manchester Road, Ellisville, lukasliquorstl.com; $54.99 try it: Neat or in an Old Fashioned

The recent surge in craft distilling has created a large market of young whiskeys, or whiskeys aged less than four years in oak. Dry Fly whiskey is aged less than two years and has notes of cinnamon and vanilla. But the malty, almost bran-cereal flavor of the base spirit is the strongest feature. Sip it neat to understand the difference between this whiskey and one that’s fully aged. Dry Fly whiskey is terrific in an Old Fashioned, as the sweetness pairs well with the sugar and bitters.

OUR TOP PICKS FOR OCTOBER

POuring wine PhOTOgraPhy By ©iSTOckPhOTO.cOm/Lauri PaTTerSOn


WINE written by Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann shares her passion for all things epicurean through her event and consultation business, which is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.

2010 Indaba Chenin Blanc Provenance: South Africa available at: Whole Foods Market, 1601 S. Brentwood Blvd., Brentwood, wholefoodsmarket.com; $9.99 Pairings: Calamari • Gorgonzola Dolce • Quiche

Chenin blanc is the most widely planted grape of South Africa and is doing its part to make a name for the up-and-coming wine region. this crisp white wine is rich with fruit and alive with fresh acidity. Honeydew melon and meringue float from the glass while citrus flavors and subtle sweetness dominate your palate.

2009 Red Car The Aphorist Pinot Noir Provenance: Sonoma Coast, Calif. available at: Saint Louis Wine Market & Tasting Room, 164 Chesterfield Commons East, Chesterfield, stlwinemarket.com; $60 Pairings: Korean barbecue pork • Salmon • Lasagna

A sexy and sophisticated Sonoma Coast Pinot noir from the bartolomei Vineyard. wonderful fall fruitiness of wild berry, rhubarb and pomegranate with nuances of cedar and rose. it exhibits an elegant mouth feel with great acidity. Suitable for drinking now, with a little breathing time, or to enjoy in another year or so.

2009 Pueblo del Sol Tannat Provenance: Juanico, Uruguay available at: The Wine Merchant Ltd., 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com; $9.99 Pairings: Beef stew • Aged cheese • Eggplant

now the national grape of Uruguay, tannat originated in Southern France, used primarily for blended wines. this charming and appealing introduction to the somewhat unknown grape shows strong notes of blackberry and raspberry, balanced by soft tannins and a hint of minerality from its stainless steel fermentation. A wine worthy of adding to your vocabulary as well as to your cellar.

Join Angela Ortmann and FEAST publisher Catherine Neville for a happy hour wine tasting at Salt on Thu., Oct. 20, at 6pm. RSVP to rsvp@stlwinegirl.com.

JOIN US! Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2011

37


mySTery Shopper

Sweet Dumpling Squash Bisque by todd LouGh, bIXby’S

Serves | 4 | squash BoWLs

4

sweet dumpling squashes

4

sweet dumpling squashes, halved and seeded yellow onion leek butter brandy heavy cream cayenne pepper freshly grated nutmeg sea salt and freshly ground white pepper

BIsque

1 1 4 Tbsp 4 oz 1 quart 1 pinch 1 pinch

| Preparation – Squash Bowls | Preheat oven to 350ºF. with a paring knife, carefully make an incision 2½ inches from the stem at a 30º angle all the way around the top of each squash. Remove the caps, scoop out seeds and roast for 20 minutes.

| Preparation – Bisque | Preheat oven to 350ºF.

Cut onion into thin strips. Halve leek, wash and cut into ½-inch chunks, discarding the green leaves. Place butter in a heavy-bottomed stainless steel pot over medium heat. Place onion and leek in pot. Sweat with the lid on for 10 to 15 minutes or until very tender. Place brandy in pot and flambé until liquid is gone. Place squash pulp, cream, cayenne pepper and nutmeg in pot and simmer for 20 minutes. Place bisque in a blender and purée well. Strain bisque though a fine strainer. Add salt and pepper to taste. Place bisque in par-baked squash and serve.

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jennifer Silverberg

Place squash halves on roasting pan, skin side down and roast for 40 minutes. Allow to cool. Scoop out and reserve pulp. Discard the skins.

meeT: SWEET DUMPLING SQUASH wRITTen by russ Carr

If you’re like me, you don’t readily associate dumplings with squash. No, dumplings are those thick, chewy noodles in a bowl of stewed chicken. A flaky crust filled with an apple bathed in cinnamon and butter. And the way, way, way too many pot stickers and siu mai from the dim sum cart. And yet, years ago, some crazy horticulturalist with enough wherewithal to nibble the little squash must’ve named them on first (very sweet) taste and with the opinion that they were cute (as a dumpling). The horticulturalist was on to something.

Stop by 38

feastSTL.com

What are they?

hoW do I use them?

Sweet dumpling squash is a winter variety, available throughout the autumn months. Relatively small (think baseball to grapefruit size), they look like little, white pumpkins with green speckles and stripes between the ribs. Cut one open, and you’ll find bright-orange flesh similar to that of a sweet potato but not as firm or dense. At the core, just beneath the stem, is a smattering of seeds and stringy fibers. These can be discarded, though the seeds (once toasted) can make a crunchy snack or garnish.

The sweet dumpling squash’s similarity to both a pumpkin and sweet potato is a clue to its use. The flesh of the squash can be scooped out to make pie or mashed with butter and cinnamon. The difference is found in the sweet dumpling squash’s skin, which is thin, entirely edible and sometimes even sweeter than what’s inside. Roasting the whole gourd, stuffed with practically anything (think dumplings), is a snap. In fact, roasting is one of the most popular ways to prepare this sweet autumn side.

to pick up more delicious recipes featuring sweet dumpling squash.Visit straubs.com for information on its four locations. OCTOBER 2011

check it out!

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Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2011

39


TECH SCHOOL

SALTCRUSTED BAKING STORY AND RECIPE BY Cassandra Vires

The leisure of summer has left us, but the urge to bury things in sand lingers. That thought brought me to salt-crusted baking, a technique that never ceases to impress.

Salt-crusted baking is a relatively simple cooking technique that can be applied to a variety of proteins and starches. My favorites have always been potatoes, duck breasts and, of course, seafood. Cooking a whole fish, with the head and bones intact, is a beautiful presentation that brings intense flavor to the meat, just as occurs with a bone-in steak. A mixture of salt and egg whites creates a sand-like paste that you spread under and over a whole fish, creating a shell. The shell keeps all the moisture of the fish in and all the hot air from the oven out. The result is moist, tender and extremely flavorful fish. Although salt-crusted baking is a simple and straightforward process, the variations are practically limitless. Aromatics are essential to this dish, so try incorporating various fresh herbs, fennel, leeks, coriander, anise or, my personal favorite, infused salts. It takes a good amount of salt to cover the whole fish, so purchasing infused sea salt may be out of your budget. However, you can easily create your own infused salts by heating the kosher salt in the recipe below with the herb of your choice in a large sauté pan over medium heat for 10 minutes. Then transfer to a bowl and let cool for 5 minutes. Cover and let sit for at least 24 hours. The process of cooking a whole fish can seem daunting, but your fish monger will do all the hard work for you. Simply ask him (or her) what’s fresh and to clean the fish for you. All you have to do is season, encrust, bake and enjoy. Chef Cassandra Vires received her culinary training in Houston, Texas, and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes. Her new restaurant, Home Wine Kitchen, opened recently in Maplewood.

COOKING VIDEO!

Watch chef Cassy’s crust technique and see how easy saltcrusted baking really is. Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone (get the free app at gettag.mobi), or watch the video in the Watch & Listen section at

feastSTL.com.

40

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2011

Salt-Crusted Salmon Serves | 6 to 8 | 1

1 6 sprigs 6 3 cups

5-lb salmon, cleaned and scaled (also try black bass or snapper) lemon, thinly sliced thyme egg whites kosher salt lemon wedges and extra-virgin olive oil for garnish

| Preparation | Preheat the oven

fish on top of the salt mixture.

to 400°F. Place the fish on a clean surface and pat dry with paper

| 4 | Spread the remaining

towels. | 1 | Insert lemon slices and thyme sprigs into the fish’s cavity and set the fish aside until needed. Using an electric stand mixer, beat the egg whites until they reach a firm peak. | 2 & 3 | Gently fold in the kosher salt. Spread some of the salt mixture on the bottom of a baking sheet or other oven-proof container large enough to accommodate the whole fish. Gently place the

mixture over the fish patting it down to create a consistent seal. It isn’t necessary to cover the head or the tail, but you can if you want. Bake for 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and crack the salt crust with a spoon or knife. Gently remove the crust, taking care not to allow the salt to reach the flesh. Cut the fish into portions and serve with lemon wedges and extra-virgin olive oil.


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|1|

Check Out Schnucks Cooks Videos For Tips & Techniques!

Our Schnucks Cooks how-to videos are full of tips and techniques from our team of culinary experts. If you want to learn more, check out our video library at www.schnuckscooks.com. You’ll also find a variety of Schnucks Cooks recipes for quick, easy and affordable meal solutions. At our in-store Schnucks Cooks stations, our experienced Cooking Coaches will demonstrate how to cook our featured recipes and sample them for you to try! You’ll find all the ingredients and cooking equipment for each recipe next to our Schnucks Cooks station in select stores.

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|2|

Pie Crust 101

All you need are five simple ingredients to make a tender and flaky pie crust. It’s as easy as 1-2-3 with the help of a food processor. Here are a few steps for making a buttery homemade shell that’s perfect for a variety of fillings (see complete recipe online for single and double-crust pies).

|3|

Å)

PHOTOGRAPHY bY Jennifer Silverberg

Pulse flour and salt in a food processor fitted with a knife blade a few times to combine ingredients. The mixture should look like pea-sized crumbs.

Â)and Flour your work surface, rolling pin ¿) To form the bottom crust, roll dough loosely around rolling pin, then ease crust the top of the dough to prevent sticking.

into pie plate.

Visit www.schnuckscooks.com

for Schnucks Cooks videos, recipes, locations, our monthly newsletter and more!

©2011 Schnucks

|4| Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2011

41


EASY EATS

MASHED POTATO MAKEOVER RECiPE bY Nathaniel Bonner

Transforming mashed potatoes into a savory soufflé adds a little sophistication to a favorite fall comfort food. Potato soufflé is equally great with a family-style country lunch or as an elegant side to a fine-dining winter menu. This soufflé won’t rise high above the rim of the baking dish and need a collar like a soufflé that uses a higher ratio of egg white. Also, there’s no need to worry about it falling as traditional soufflés do. it adapts easily to your needs and can be cooked in individual ramekins, hollowed-out potatoes or a large soufflé dish.

Serves | 4 to 6 | 3

|1|

½ cup 4 Tbsp 1 to 2 cloves 2 Tbsp 3 4 oz 2 oz 4 Tbsp ¼ tsp

|

|2|

medium russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes whole milk butter, divided garlic, finely minced Boursin, at room temperature eggs, lightly beaten cave-aged Gruyère, shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano, shredded chives, divided cayenne pepper salt and freshly ground black pepper pancetta, cooked and crumbled

CHEF’S

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 375ºF. Place potatoes in a pot of cool water with a pinch of salt. bring water to a boil and cook until potatoes are fork-tender. | 1 | Drain potatoes and press through a potato ricer (or mash with fork or manual masher) and return potatoes to pot. Set on low heat. Mix with milk, 3 Tbsp butter, garlic and boursin. Remove from heat and let mashed potatoes cool to approximately 120ºF.

FeaSt extRa

|3|

eggs. Once potatoes are cooled, fold in eggs, shredded cheeses, 2 Tbsp chives and cayenne pepper. Season with salt and pepper to taste. | 3 | Grease a soufflé dish with 1 Tbsp butter and fill with potato mixture. bake 25 to 30 minutes or until toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Garnish with remaining chives and crumbled pancetta and serve.

|

A SALTY SUBJECT: When seasoning, consider the salt in the cheeses and pancetta. if you’re heavy handed with salt, you might want to add a pinch or two to the potato mixture. Just be sure to taste for seasoning before the egg mix is folded in. High-quality pancetta is very salty, so try tossing cooked, crumbled pancetta in a few drops of lemon juice. The acid will balance out the saltiness. Too much acid, however, could result in the “umami reaction,” which creates a metallic taste.

ChECk iT OUT!

| 2 | in a small bowl, lightly wisk

PERFECT POTATOES: it’s important to extract as much moisture as

possible from the potatoes before adding butter, cream, milk or stock. Place the drained potatoes back in the hot pot they were cooked in, over the lowest flame, and attentively stir them to avoid scorching. LOW AND SLOW: When incorporating raw eggs into a warm base, it’s imperative to either temper the base or let it cool to around 120ºF. This prevents the proteins in the eggs from rapidly coagulating, resulting in small, scrambled beads that ruin the homogenous mix. instead, cook eggs slowly within the base mixture, giving you a consistent thickness and texture.

Check out feastSTL.com for a step-by-step slideshow on making this month’s dish.

PHOTOGRAPHY bY Jennifer Silverberg

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Join FEAST and the Schnucks Cooking School Team on Wed., Oct. 26, at 6PM to make the tasty menu shown here. Tickets are just $40 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RSVP at schnuckscooks.com.

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Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2011

43


FOOD, FIRED UP!

WRITTEN by Matt Sorrell

|

PHoTogRAPHy by Gregg Goldman

It’s sweltering inside Engine House 29 ... ... at Vandeventer Avenue and Forest Park Parkway in the City of St. Louis, and Jacque Matthews is working up a sweat. He’s not running drills or maintaining equipment.

44

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2011

He’s slaving away in the kitchen, preparing a meal for eight hungry firefighters on a budget of just 40 bucks. At the beginning of every shift, the guys each hand Matthews (volunteer


chef of the house) $5, and he gets to work planning the evening’s meal and shopping ads for great deals. Balancing his usual firehouse duties – like the numerous emergency

calls his crew responds to each day – and creating a delicious and healthy meal to fuel men for labor-intensive jobs is no easy feat. But despite the chaos, by midafternoon

there’s usually something simmering on the stove or in the slow cooker or sizzling out back on one of the grills. The aromas drift through the open bay where the firetrucks

are parked, enticing the firefighters to stow their gear and gather in the dining area. They sit at long tables, read the paper and relive the day’s dramas. Once everybody gets a

plate, Matthews can finally relax, consider his job well done and enjoy one of his favorite perks as chef. “The cook,” he says, “doesn’t have to do the dishes.”

Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2011

45


FIREHOUSE FAVES: “The

guys are my guinea pigs,” Matthews says. He likes to experiment with and perfect recipes at the firehouse, creating favorite meals, such as the bone-in ham, cheesy potatoes and asparagus pictured here.

Tater Tot Casserole By Jacque Matthews

Serves | 4 to 5 | 4 cups 1 lb 12 oz

1 small can 14.5 oz 11 oz 1/3 cup 4 oz ¼ tsp 1/8 tsp

frozen Tater Tots ground beef frozen broccoli, thawed and drained Durkee Frenchfried onions canned diced tomatoes cream of celery soup milk shredded Cheddar, divided garlic powder freshly ground black pepper salt, to taste

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 400ºF. Arrange Tater Tots on bottom of a 9x13-inch baking dish and bake uncovered for 10 minutes. Brown ground beef and drain well. Layer beef, broccoli, half the fried onions and tomatoes on top of Tater Tots. In a separate bowl, combine cream of celery soup, milk, half the cheese, garlic powder, pepper and salt. Pour over beef mixture. Cover and bake for 20 minutes. Uncover, sprinkle remaining fried onions and cheese over top, and return to oven until cheese is melted and onions are browned.

CULINARY CUES: Matthews

gets recipe ideas from magazines and websites, but also from other great cooks in his life, such as his former captain and his father. Matthews’ Tater Tot casserole recipe (left) was passed down from his dad.

46

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OCTOBER 2011


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Gift cards available Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2011

47


EAT YOUR VEGETABLES: The

house enjoys grilled foods year-round. “Cheeseburgers are a big favorite, as are smoked ribs and brisket,” says Matthews. “But we also have grilled veggies. I make sure there’s always some green on the plate.”

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OCTOBER 2011


Cheese Soup By Jacque Matthews

Serves | 4 to 5 | 2 to 3 1 ¼ cup 1 cup 15 oz ½ cup 1 lb

large potatoes, cubed small onion, diced sliced carrots water chicken broth sour cream Velveeta

| Preparation | Put potatoes, onion, carrots and water in sauce pan and simmer for 20 minutes. Add chicken broth, sour cream and cheese. Cook over low flame until cheese melts, stirring often.

Beef Stroganoff By Jacque Matthews

Serves | 4 to 5 | 2 lbs 3 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 11 oz ½ cup 1 small can 1 pkg 2 tsp 1 lb ½ pint

stew meat vegetable oil minced garlic cream of mushroom soup dry red wine sliced mushrooms, drained onion soup mix freshly ground black pepper extra-wide egg noodles sour cream

| Preparation | Dry stew meat by patting with paper towels. In a skillet, heat vegetable oil to medium-hot. Add stew meat and garlic. Brown meat on all sides. In a crock pot, mix together cream of mushroom soup, wine, mushrooms, dry soup mix and pepper. Add beef and cook for 8 hours on low setting. Prepare egg noodles according to package directions. Just before serving, stir sour cream into stroganoff until well mixed. Serve stroganoff over noodles.

2011 Kitchen and Bath Expo

2011

KITCHEN & BATH

“We work hard all day, but dinner brings the whole team together.”

EXPO

September 30th, October 1st & 2nd Seminars each day- our experts will be on hand to answer your questions and to offer discounts only available here!!

September 30th 9am - 8pm seminar at 6pm

October 1st 9am -6pm seminar at 4pm

October 2nd 12pm-4pm seminar at 2pm Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2011

49


“The cook doesn’t have to do the dishes.”

MIND YOUR MEAL: “I was told

when I started not to make spaghetti, because that dish is cursed,” says Matthews. “Before I came, there was always a huge fire when someone made spaghetti. So if we’re going to have pasta, it’s got to be mostaccioli or

lasagna. The one time I forgot and made spaghetti, it was the day the Pevely Dairy Complex caught fire. I will never make spaghetti again.”

WHEN DUTY CALLS: It’s not

uncommon for an alarm to disrupt the cook’s plans. However, Matthews says, if someone is left behind, they’ll cover everything so he can pick up when he returns. What happens when no one can help out? “Whatever

state it’s in, we just have to eat it,” he says with a shrug.

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Firehouse Chili By Jacque Matthews

Serves | 4 to 5 | 1 lb 30 oz 15 oz 15 oz 2 Tbsp 2 tsp 1 1

ground beef canned hot chili beans canned chili-style tomatoes beef broth chili powder cumin medium white onion, diced small green pepper, diced

| Preparation | Brown ground beef and drain well. Purée chili beans in food processor. Mix together all ingredients in large pot. Simmer over low heat for 1 hour, stirring occasionally.

Chocolate Chip Gooey Butter Cake By Jacque Matthews

Ê I

Serves | 4 to 5 | cake

1 box 1 stick

chocolate cake mix egg butter, melted

Filling

8 oz 3 1 tsp 1 stick 1 lb 6 oz

cream cheese, softened eggs vanilla extract butter, melted confectioners’ sugar semisweet chocolate chips

| Preparation – Cake | Preheat oven to 350ºF. Combine cake mix, egg and butter. Mix well with electric mixer. Pat mixture into a lightly greased 9x13-inch baking dish. | Preparation – Filling | In a large bowl, beat cream cheese until smooth. Add eggs, vanilla and butter. Beat until blended. Add confectioners’ sugar and mix well. Stir in chocolate chips by hand.

| To Assemble | Pour filling mixture over cake mixture. Bake 40 to 50 minutes. Be sure not to over-bake; the center should be a little gooey.

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Oh, precious, lazy weekend. Time to kick back after a hard week of work – or recover from too much “relaxation” on Friday night. Park the kids, or yourself, in front of the Saturday morning cartoons. Work your way through the Sunday paper. Unwind. Chill.

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Nothing puts you in a mellow state of mind better than the one-two punch of sugar and caffeine, courtesy of a box of donuts and a hot cup of coffee. Counterintuitive but true. You see, donuts and coffee, when paired together, slow down your day. Just like milk and cookies, donuts and coffee are designed to be consumed in combination. Nibble a little donut; sip a little coffee.


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Happily for St. Louisans, our city is something of a donut Mecca, particularly on the South Side. Hardly a neighborhood goes unserved by a purveyor of fried pastry. And if that weren’t enough, the city is blessed with so many local coffee roasters you could try a different company’s beans every day for a week and still have more to go. Feast is gonna simplify things for you by doing the legwork. Here are five great coffee and donut picks from around St. Louis. Love that sweet, lazy weekend.


John Donut and Kaldi’s Coffee’s El Salvador La Divina Providencia Walk into John Donut and you might not feel like leaving. So if someone back home is grinding coffee beans, expecting you back from a quick donut run, don’t get distracted by the eclectic décor, enticed by the unusually large seating area or engage in conversation with the colorful characters who sometimes frequent the shop. Focus on the donuts. In this case, focus on the sweet, toffee-like caramel Long Johns; the velvety plumpness of a Boston cream; and the spicy crunch of a cinnamon-crumb cake donut. That last one is something of a novelty in St. Louis, a buttery, yellow cake donut encased in an incredibly delicate shell of crunchy cinnamon crumbs – sort of what you’d get with fried ice cream. (I bet it’d be even better gently warmed with a scoop of vanilla on top.) Pair the donuts with Kaldi’s Coffee’s La Divina Providencia, a Salvadoran variety with a bold, fruity flavor up front, giving way to a smooth finish. Slightly sweet on its own, La Divina Providencia accents the spice of the cinnamon and the nuttiness of the caramel and provides a bright counterpart to the cool vanilla custard. John Donut, 1618 S. Broadway, Soulard, 314.241.3360 Mon. to Sat., 12am to 1pm Kaldi’s Coffee, kaldiscoffee.com


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Do You Miss Germany? Celebrate your heritage, a special occasion, or just sit back and relax in a unique atmosphere. Taste and discover authentic German food, freshly prepared following regional & family recipes. Authentic German Thursday, Oct 6th "Bavarian Oktoberfest" from 4pm-10pm Cuisine, Bier, Wine, Gemütlichkeit! Live from Munich "Chikeria" and the Alpenhorn Group "Alpentraum" Bring your Lederhose, Fraulein and your dance shoes - We have Bier, Food, Music and Gemuetlichkeit. +75" /6:7- "5"!% '.* & ,89 3086!*0% ) (087$ :"087.; ) 4!$6#: 2"1-$/"

Tues-Fri 11-2 & 5-9, Sat & Sun 5-9 &1&. -23;48"% 9<' / -6>2$:<6=+ 70 ,&)(.,,(1))1 / !$"5"!<$#*82'2$5

Stone 15th Annv. Escondidian Imperial Black IPA Blackish brown, huge brown head that when poured was cascading. Pine, coffee, bitter sweet chocolate, and alcohol in the smell. Piney up front, sweet in the middle with it turning like coffee that has been left too long on the burner and bitter sweet chocolate. The bitterness is strong and lasting, stayed on the tongue long after each sip.

Orin Swift 2008 Papillon Tasting Notes

The wine has a deep red color with a garnet hue that is almost black. The aromas are of classic Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon with cedar box, rose petal and hints of soft French oak. The entry is subtle ripe raspberry and boysenberry. Loads of cherry, plum and intense cassis frame long chains of soft tannins that form a long and lingering finish.

Vineyards Wine & Spirits 636-519-WINE www.vineyardswine.com Like us on Facebook to receive more discounts.

Where Friends and Family Meet…

St. Charles Best Kept Secret... TUBBY'S PUB & GRUB Located inside PLAZA LANES has Steak Specials for $12.99 Tuesday - Rib Eye, Wednesday - Fillet & Thursday - Strip Lunch: Monday -Friday 11AM - 2PM Dinner: Tuesday - Saturday 4PM - 10PM

636-925-1033

Eat In • Carry Out Banquet Facility • Catering Available

PLAZA LANES Family Fun, Parties and Leagues Newly Renovated Bowling Center

506 Droste St. Charles, MO

636-724-1350 Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2011

55


World’s Fair Doughnuts and Thomas Coffee’s Premium Blend No question about it, when you walk into World’s Fair Doughnuts, you’re stepping into a time warp. From the creaky screen door to the bulky equipment churning batter in the back to co-owner Peggy Clanton’s one-of-akind hairdo, you’ll feel like you’ve traveled back to St. Louis circa 1966. Don’t get lost in the reverie, though, or you might be on the receiving end of Clanton’s sharp tongue, honed to get customers in and out quickly. The shop’s buttermilk cake donuts are unlike any other cake donuts in town, with a rich vanilla flavor and soft crumbs. The blueberry chip donuts are so intense with blueberries you could have flashbacks to poor Violet Beauregarde from Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory. But the real treasures here are the fried pies, filled with vanilla or chocolate custard and all manner of fruit. Thomas Coffee’s flagship Premium Blend is the perfect workhorse slug-in-a-mug coffee to pair with World’s Fair Doughnut’s blue-collar donuts. Lightly acidic, with a soft (but somewhat smoky) finish, Thomas’ Premium Blend, which is 100 percent Arabica Caturra, has the body to stand up against the sweetness of the fruit pies (that blueberry donut, though, is fierce) and still not overwhelm the subtle richness of the buttermilk cake. World’s Fair Doughnuts, 1904 S. Vandeventer Ave., Southwest Garden, 314.776.9975; Mon. to Fri., 4am to 6:30pm; Sat. and Sun., 4am to 3pm Thomas Coffee, thomascoffee.com


Simply The Best Great Steaks and Seafood

Kreis' serves the finest USDA Prime Mid Western Corn-fed Beef, aged four to six weeks in house. We offer an extensive choice of the classic Steak Cuts and Seafood including our famous Prime Rib. Simply the best available-Top 2%. As well as Colorado Lamb Chops, the best you can buy!

Bring In This Ad For a Half off a bottle of Wine from our Wine List

Call Today To Book Your Reservation 314-993-0735 www.kriesrestaruant 535 S. Lindbergh, St. Louis

OR - 20% Off your bill

Up To $20 maximum off your bill. *Valid only with purchases of two dinner entrees. Dine-in only. Not valid on holidays or with any other discount. Reservations recommended. Walk-Ins always accepted. Expires 11/30/11.

(Conveniently located 1/3 mile north of Highway 40/64 between Conway and Ladue Road)

Experience True, Southern Hospitality & Great Home Cooking at 4000 Shaw Blvd. St. Louis MO 63110

314-771-4001

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Tues - Thurs. 11:00am - 7pm Fri 11am-8pm • Sat 9am-8pm • Sun & Mon CLOSED

♦ Voted Best Neighborhood Restaurant in 2010 Riverfront Times

♦ A-List 2011 Best Retro Restaurant

St. Louis Magazine

Some of our menu items include:

Josephine Spallino, 1940

Mama's 8 Layer Lasagna Memphis Style Hickory Smoked BBQ Authentic Monte Cristo Sandwich Herb-crusted Baked Tilapia

Fresh Fried Chicken (fried to order) Meat Loaf Mama's Way Fried Catfish Filets Chicken Fried Steak

Pecan Pie, Peach Cobbler, Sweet Potato Pie and Banana Pudding

World Champion Tea and Much More... Select from over 100 premium loose leaf teas, herbal blends, Chai and Mate, too! Fezziwig's is home of St. Louis' only Specialty Tea Institute-certified Tea Educator/Specialist, Ellen Leaf-Moore. Enjoy your own personal pot of tea, a tea-to-go and peruse our selection of outstanding tea accessories. No high pressure selling here...we're passionate about tea! Bring in this ad by Sunday, October 30, 2011 and TAKE 25% OFF your next 8 ounce tea purchase! Limit one per customer.

Open Tuesday thru Saturday 10 til 5 Sunday Noon til 4; Closed Mondays

218-222 West Saint Louis Street Historic Lebanon, IL 62254 (618) 537-8422 www.fezziwigsmarket.com

Our BBQ is served with sauce on the side because we can JV's was the former home of the Schorr family brewery, which was built in 1880's and operated up until prohibition years. There are three fermenting cellars below street level; the third story down is now under water. JV's has been in operation under the same management for 27 years. We serve the best in hickory smoked pork and chicken. Our ribs and chicken are smoked for five hours, while our brisket and pork butts are smoked for over 14 hours for full flavor. Our BBQ is served with sauce on the side, because we can. We are Happy to be celebrating our 27th year in business!!

117 N. Main St., Waterloo, IL, 62298 Call: 618-939-7127 Mon-Thurs 11am-8:30pm Fri & Sat 11am-9pm Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2011

57


St. Louis Hills Donuts and Goshen Coffee Co.’s Organic Moka Java Blend In a tiny green shack way down Hampton Avenue are some mighty big donuts. St. Louis Hills Donuts is a South City stalwart, with a neighborhood reputation for incredible products – amazing given the shop’s tiny space. There’s not much room to stand, and jockeying to see into the cases can be a challenge when there’s a crowd. Even if you can’t see ‘em, be sure to ask for these: the traditional “raised ‘n’ glazed,” a towering pillow of a donut with that perfect bite of yeast at the beginning and a hint of oil at the finish; the buttery, classic old-fashioned, which tastes exactly like the bottom layer of a gooey butter cake but is much easier to eat; and the ultimate sugar rush, the devil’s food old-fashioned that’s glazed and drizzled with fudge icing (oh, yeah). For these decadent donuts, only Goshen Coffee Co.’s powerful organic Moka Java Blend will do. The potent brew has a rich, bold flavor; hints of smoke and chocolate provide a great foil for St. Louis Hills Donuts’ sweet selections. Still, after a mug of Moka Java and a couple of those devil’s food oldfashioneds, you might be more bouncy than lazy. St. Louis Hills Donuts, 6917 Hampton Ave., St. Louis Hills, 314.481.6050; Tue. to Sun., 5am to 12pm Goshen Coffee Co., goshencoffee.com


Tenderloin Tuesdays

Any steak from our regular menu with two sides only $15 114 W. Mill St., Waterloo, IL 62298 618.939.9933 www.gallagherswaterloo.com

Interactive Mystery Dinner Theatre y)]0a ]0 &_]' ˜g c.) “Stairway to Heaven” $ 00 After his death on August 18, 1977, Melvis Cleverly never showed up at the Pearly Gates. Melvis needs to check in to join the heavenly band. We find out that Melvis didn't die from a heart attack, but was actually MURDERED! Jan S. Joplin and Jake Blues need your help to track down his killer and help Melvis climb the “Stairway to Heaven.”

10

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This interactive comedy mystery will be presented with a 4-course meal to DIE for!

“Stairway to Heaven”

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Reservations: 314-533-9830

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Celebrate Oktoberfest German Style Coffee Cake

Clayton's Bakery is celebrating Oktoberfest with German Style Apple Strudel. Pre-order now for your party. Also, Deli Sandwiches featuring G&W Brats

For your Tailgate - We have Football Cookies for your favorite team. Clayton’s Bakery & Deli offers fresh-made baked goods using recipes from St. Louis' earliest history. Enjoy decorated cookies, cakes and party pastries, all made from scratch! Visit the Deli for lunch; 10am-5:30pm.

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Fine Italian Dining Mineo's Restaurant has been creating fabulous and unforgettable Italian Cuisine for close to 40 years. A family owned and operated business, the Mineos family has crafted the dining experience to a fine art. From the moment you step into its unique interior, you will find it elegant, intimate and comfortable. The recently renovated dining areas combine historical Mineo's family photographs with contemporary furnishings. The bar area boasts comfortable seating, a two story ceiling, a stunning crystal chandelier, and a unique water feature. Don't forget to order your Centinni... Mineo's signature cocktail. Tis the season..... Not too early to book your Holiday Party at Mineos! We have three Private Rooms and will do all the work for you - we have an Event Planner that will take care of all the details! www.johnmineos.com or (314)434-5244

13490 Clayton Road (at Mason)

Town & Country, Missouri 63131 For reservations call 314.434.5244

Email: jrmineos@gmail.com Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2011

59


Mini Donuts, Etc. and Chauvin Coffee’s Soulard Blend There are a lot of delicious aromas wafting through Soulard Market, but the unmistakable smell of hot grease and sugar will lead you directly to Mini Donuts, Etc. and its old-fashioned, mechanized donut-making cart. A constant parade of little batter rings bob two-by-two through hot oil before making a final alley-oop into a holding pan. A pair drops. Then another, seconds later. You may get so mesmerized watching these mini morsels being made you forget you’re there to buy some. Every passing minute works against these little puffs; they’re absolutely best enjoyed on-site. So grab an extra bag to enjoy right away. Then hurry home to brew your joe. The perfect accompaniment is right around the corner at Soulard Spice Shop: the Soulard Blend from Chauvin Coffee Co. It’s mellow and balanced with a nutty, toffee-like aroma and a flavor that quickly moves from acidic to fruity before smoothing out. The coffee pairs especially well with the cinnamon-sugar donuts, which are hand-shaken right off the line. You can’t get a fresher donut in St. Louis. Mini Donuts, Etc., southwest wing of Soulard Market, 730 Carroll St., Soulard; Saturdays, 7am to 5:30pm Chauvin Coffee Co., chauvincoffee.com


t G & W Meat a e B an't c It's OktoberFest! You Get Your Sausages and j a Busch Beer Enjoy While your Wait!

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Plaza Pastries & Donuts and Northwest Coffee’s Rocky Bay Blend Located on Morgan Ford Road, Plaza Pastries & Donuts is a neighborhood secret compared to the well-known donut shops all around it. Plaza Pastries & Donuts wasn’t a stop for any motorcycling Food Network stars or Tour D’Onut cyclists. But it should top the list of anyone seeking a quality cruller. Try a cake donut with a layer of coconut as thick and unruly as Donald Trump’s hair; a lightly glazed old-fashioned that looks like a crackling sun, golden and shiny; or apple or blueberry fritters, lighter than most in St. Louis and studded with real fruit bits. Donut flavors like these call for a coffee that can hold its own without being too rich and overwhelming. Northwest Coffee’s Rocky Bay Blend has a nice, bold start; a nutty aroma; and a smooth finish. A combination of Guatemalan, Sumatran and Colombian beans, Rocky Bay Blend has the perfect balance – and drinkability – to help you work through a box of Plaza Pastries & Donuts’ best. Plaza Pastries & Donuts, 3182 Morgan Ford Road, Tower Grove South, 314.772.2328; Tues.to Fri., 6am to 6pm; Sat. and Sun., 6am to 2pm Northwest Coffee, northwestcoffee.com

Check the Let’s Eat section of the Post-Dispatch every Wed.in October for great recipes featuring coffee!

FEAST EXTRA


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$ 99

A MONTH


the BREW crew WRittEn By

Brandi Wills

“Inbru coffee flavors were invented by Howard Lerner, founder of Kaldi’s Coffee. I love the toasted chestnut, cinnamon stick and mountain hazelnut flavors. They’re perfect for fall weather.” - Scott Tjaden Inbru coffee flavors, $6.95; inbru.com

We asked those in the know about their favorite gear for making and enjoying a great cup of coffee.

“In honor of the great Irish designer Eileen Gray (1879–1976), this French press is a fresh spin on a traditional design.” - Scott Tjaden, Tjaden Interiors, tjadeninteriors.com

“These are fun for an afternoon coffee date or an after-dinner coffee with Baileys. I love the colors of buttercream, peach, pistachio and pink. The saucers create a perfect chocolate base.” - Scott Tjaden

“The AeroPress is one of the most fun coffee brewing devices I have worked with. Extracting coffee in a French press style is good, but with this device you can press that submersion brew through a filter. Espresso-style extractions have never been easier at home.” - Joe Marrocco, Kaldi’s Coffee, kaldiscoffee.com AeroPress espresso maker, $29.99; Sur La Table

Hues n Brews Chocolate Ribbon cups and saucers, $59.95 for set of 4; cooking.com

Bodum Eileen French press coffee maker, $39.95; Sur La Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.com

Inspired Food Culture

OCTOBER 2011

67


“This chic machine fits anywhere, and who wouldn’t want to display it at home or at the office?” - Scott Tjaden, Tjaden Interiors

“Coffee is around 99 percent water. If your water tastes bad, so will your coffee. Filtered water from a bottle is fine, as long as it doesn’t taste like plastic. A well-maintained filter on the end of your faucet is great, and a Brita pitcher in your refrigerator works well too. If you want clean-tasting coffee, use clean equipment, fresh roasted, seasonal coffee (grind it fresh!) and brew it with clean water.” - Joe Marrocco

“The design of these napkins is modern, chic and will hide the coffee stains!” - Scott Tjaden Paper Cloud Wood Planks Napkin, $12; allmodern.com

Brita grand pitcher, $31.49; Target, multiple locations, target.com

“The design of the Citiz espresso machine is inspired from the machine age of the Art Deco movement. This chic machine fits anywhere, and who wouldn’t want to display it at home or at the office?” - Scott Tjaden Nespresso Citiz red espresso machine, $279.95; Crate & Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.com

“Chemex is one of the best pour-over brewing systems. It is made of heat-safe glass in an hourglass shape. When you use it with a Chemex filter, the coffee is virtually sedimentfree, and it’s oh-so-tasty.” - Laura Macaluso, Foundation Grounds, foundationgrounds.com Chemex coffeemaker, $32.99; Whole Foods Market, multiple locations, wholefoodsmarket.com

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“You don’t need an expensive and fancy burr grinder, but it must be adjustable and preferably have metal burrs. Consistent grinding leads to consistent coffee.” - Joe Marrocco Capresso stainless steel burr grinder, $59.95; Sur La Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.com


“I love the blue swirl color of the Curl Ocean cups. And best yet, they have coordinating place settings if you want the entire look.” – Scott Tjaden

“This grinder is for the serious coffee addict and comes in an array of colors. The yellow is sunny, cheerful and popular for kitchens.” - Scott Tjaden

TRIC Curl Ocean coffee cups and mugs by Arzberg, $45.95 for set of 2 mugs, $74.95 for set of 4 cups; cooking.com

Ascaso i2D grinder, $308.95; kitchen-universe.com

“Brewing coffee is a science of ratios, just like baking.” - Joe Marrocco, Kaldi’s Coffee

“Brewing coffee is a science of ratios, just like baking. Unfortunately, all coffees are different weights. In order to achieve the correct dose of coffee and water it is important to weigh them both. I love Escali scales. Whichever scale you choose, it needs to be sensitive enough to weigh to the tenth of a gram, but sturdy enough to handle the weight of your brewing device, coffee and brew water without having an error.” - Joe Marrocco “These coffee tumblers by Planetary Designs really are the best travel mugs, hands down. They keep hot coffee hot for about three to four hours and will do the same for a cold drink, even in the summertime.” - Laura Macaluso Planetary Design tumblers, $18.99 to $19.99; Foundation Grounds, 7298 Manchester Road, Maplewood, foundationgrounds.com

“Our iced coffee is brewed through the TODDY cold brew method. It extracts the natural flavors of coffee but leaves behind bitter acids and oils, allowing those with sensitive stomachs to enjoy coffee without the fear of heartburn or an upset tummy.” - Kyle Parker, Pi, restaurantpi.com

Escali Arti scale, $49.95; escali.com

TODDY Cold Brew Coffee System, $39.50; Williams-Sonoma, multiple locations, williams-sonoma.com

CHECK IT OUT! Check out our feastSTL.com online column, Design Bites, every Tuesday in October for design diva Erin Callier’s favorite coffee mugs.

FEAST EXTRA


Keeping up with

the JoneSeS Written by Brandi

Wills |

PhotograPhy by Jennifer

Silverberg

as you near the end of the winding drive that leads to Jones heritage Farm & Market in Cape girardeau County, Mo., you’ll find a major obstacle in reaching your destination: chickens. they cluck about, pecking the gravel-laden path with feigned oblivion to your presence and your attempts to shoo them. they’ll move when they’re ready. they’re just letting you know from the get-go, so there won’t be any questions about it: they are in charge.


“You can look at the pigs and say, ‘That’s a grumpy pig, and that one over there, he’s a lover.’” - Stephen Sauer, farm-to-chef manager


Personality is in no short supply at Jones Heritage Farm. As owner Gerry Jones and farm-to-chef manager Stephen Sauer show us around the place on a hot, sunny August day, Sauer explains what it’s like to get to know the animals on the farm. “You can look at the pigs and say, ‘That’s a grumpy pig and that one over there, he’s a lover.’” Jones and his family and staff raise a wide variety of heritage-breed animals, including pigs, cattle, chickens, lambs and goats. The farm has laying hens for eggs and an heirloom garden full of herbs and produce. The meats, eggs, fruits and veggies are sold in the on-site market and used in its Farm-to-Fork dinners, catering operation and special events. Locals from nearby cities, including Cape Girardeau and Jackson, Mo., come to the farm to purchase these fresh items – as well as other market staples from nearby producers.

What’s not used in the market is sold wholesale directly to some of St. Louis’ favorite restaurants – such as Annie Gunn’s, Bar Italia Ristorante, Cardwell’s at the Plaza, Cielo, Farmhaus and The Scottish Arms. These notable eateries work with Jones to bring high-quality, all-natural, pasture-raised meats to the dining tables of our city. What make Jones Heritage Farm’s meats special are the animals’ genetics and the way the animals are raised. “The meat from heritage-breed hogs has that oldfashioned pork flavor that was prevalent before pork became ‘the other white meat,’” Jones says. “Heritage animals require way more labor and way more time,” says Jones. “You can’t produce all-natural meat with confinement, so we have to give a lot more time and land to each animal than with conventional farming. When they’re in confinement, they end up needing antibiotics. And then they’re not all-natural.” The extra attention these animals receive doesn’t just produce healthier, more flavorful, antibiotic-free meat. It helps preserve heritage livestock breeds. “The reason heritage breeds [have gone] out of favor, and some have become extinct, is because they don’t do well in massproduction conditions,” Jones says.

According to the United Nation’s Food and Agriculture Organization, by 2006 nearly 190 breeds of farm animals had become extinct worldwide, with 1,500 other breeds at risk of extinction.

The major focus at Jones Heritage Farm is on two breeds of hogs: Berkshire, black pigs that originated in Britain and are known as Kagoshima Kurobuta in Japan, and Red Wattle, decedents of wild pigs found in Texas 40 years ago.


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Inspired Food Culture

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73


“Berkshire is the Kobe beef of pork,” says Jones. Berkshires make for the best pork belly and the intramuscular marbling in their loin is ideal. Jones is one of the few Red Wattle breeders in the area – and in the nation. He likes Red Wattle pork for its lean, beefy texture; flavorful dark red to purple meat; and great marbling. According to Jones, the breed is considered critically endangered, with fewer than 2,000 Red Wattles in the world. “I heard it’s Mario Batali’s favorite pig,” he says. “If Batali likes it, I figured I should try it.”

The pigs are given a lot of room to grow: two acres of land per eight pigs. Jones’ hogs rotate pastures until they reach 75 to 100 pounds, and then they’re put into the woods to forage on fungi, leaves, nuts and other natural goodies. Unlike some other farmers, Jones allows his pigs to root, which is part of their natural instinct. Although it’s destructive to the land, he says it’s important to the quality of his product to allow his pigs to live naturally. “It takes a number of things to make a pig that produces high-quality meat,” he says. “You’ve got to keep the pig from being stressed out because stress leads to illness, blood-spots in its meat and no cooperation from the animal. Confinement, heat, lack of food and water, and a lot of new people around who it isn’t familiar with will all stress a pig out. So we make sure our pigs have water and a lot of it all the time. And they need shade and a waller, or a mud hole, to keep themselves cool. We’ll give a pig antibiotics if it gets sick – I’m not going to let an animal die – but we won’t sell it because then [the meat’s] not all-natural. But we rarely have a sick pig.” Seventy-five percent of the farm’s sales come from pork products. The Berkshires produce two litters a year with about eight to 10 piglets in each litter. The Red Wattles have larger litters, and, according to Sauer, they’re better moms. The farm relies on these good moms to keep business booming. “Pigs used to be called ‘mortgage lifters,’” says Jones, “because small farms could make a lot of money off a single litter, and you usually get two [litters] a year.” Profitability isn’t their only attractive characteristic, however. As Jones puts it, “Pigs are easy to like.”

And then there are those chickens. “I wanted to focus on providing all-natural pork and chicken because it’s harder to find those things from local farms [than eggs and beef].” The primary breed of butcher chicken on Jones’ farm is Cornish cross, and the laying hens are Rhode Island Reds, Black Stars (a cross between Rhode Island Reds and Plymouth Rocks) and Ameraucanas, which are known for their beautiful blue-green-shelled eggs. 74

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OCTOBER 2011


P S JOIN US!

Don’t miss your chance to interact directly with these professionals and mingle with your fellow food lovers.

Feast Book Club Meet-Up Mon., Oct. 24, 6 to 7pm; Robust

Sommelier Jennifer Johnson hosts this month’s meetup and discusses her pick of the month, The Wild Vine by Todd Kliman, which unveils the history of the Norton grape, from its 1873 debut in Vienna to its current path back to stardom. Enjoy free hors d’oeuvres, conversation and wine specials. Pick up your copy of the book at Left Bank Books or at left-bank.com and get 20 percent off! RSVP to editor@feaststl.com.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Wed., Oct. 26, 6pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $40, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Think you can’t make a soufflé? Think again! Join us for this handson class and make the potato and cheese soufflé on page 42. Photo by Jennifer Silverberg

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OCTOBER 2011

75


The precocious poultry can be found everywhere on the farm: in the barn, stealing nibbles of the piglets’ food, under cars, commingling with the ducks at the spring-fed pond, or even hitching a ride to the ‘Lou. “I went on a delivery once, and when I opened the back doors of the truck, there were three chickens that had gotten in before I left,” says Sauer. “So they rode with me on the rounds that day, and when I got back to the farm, I opened the door for them and they hopped out and went on about their business.” Sauer’s weekly restaurant deliveries give him the opportunity to see what chefs are up to in the kitchen. He says a lot of chefs are asking for bellies, shoulders, loins and French-cut chops as well as whole animals they can break down themselves. All of the farm’s goats go to St. Louis restaurants, namely Monarch Restaurant and Southern Bistro and YiaYia’s Euro Bistro, and Jones has noticed an uptick in sales of goat meat lately.The most prevalent trend, however, is requests for specific sizes and weights. “We get a lot of orders for roasting pigs or pigs at a certain weight to yield a particular tenderness or to use in a particular preparation,” says Jones. “In the future, we believe chefs will start asking for special raising methods, such as a primary diet of acorns or hazelnuts.”

The relationships Jones and Sauer have established with local chefs have been key to getting their business up and running. Their first client was Lou Rook III at Annie Gunn’s, who spread the word about their superior products to other chefs. “We love the restaurant community in St. Louis,” says Jones. “They’ve welcomed us with open arms. We’re giving them something they need, and they’re giving back by helping us stay in business.” “We’ve done well quickly,” says Sauer. “Sometimes, a little too quickly, but it has worked out. I think being honest helps. If you can’t do something for someone, don’t say you can.” Sincerity is at the heart of everything that goes on at Jones Heritage Farm & Market. “My grandparents were farmers,” says Jones. “They did things the way they were taught, and I’m surprised at how much has changed [in farming] in such a little amount of time. It’s no longer a father-son business because few families can make enough money growing commodity products. So now there are very few full-time farmers.

“We consider ourselves artisan farmers,” he continues. “We depend on people who are willing to pay more for high-quality, humanely raised, all-natural local products. We give our customers what they want, with no middlemen. We adhere to very strict standards. And we’re proof that small farms can have success with specialty products.”


“[We] give a lot more time and land to each animal than with conventional farming.� - Gerry Jones, owner


Farm-to-Fork Fare CHeCk it out!

Feast extra

Once a month, Jones Heritage Farm & Market hosts a special Farm-to-Fork dinner, featuring a multicourse meal made from the farm’s yield (with a little help from neighboring farms when needed) and prepared by farm chef Walter Lents or by a guest chef. Past dinners have seen the likes of Steven Caravelli, Carl Hazel, Jack MacMurray III and Rob Uyemura. During our August visit, Lents prepared a menu bursting with farm-fresh flavors.

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Farm-to-Fork menu Hors d’oeuvres:

2nd Course: ○

Beef Carpaccio with Arugula Salad

Lamb Lollipops with Mint Green Goddess Sauce ○ Roast Beef and Potato Canapés with Horsey Sauce ○ Tomato and Goat Cheese Tart

3rd Course:

1st Course:

Caprese Salad Napoleon

Duo of Pork: French-Cut Pork Chop and Beer-Braised Pork Belly with Ratatouille, Cheddar Grits and Cherry-Port Reduction

4th Course:

Peach Crisp with Homemade Ice Cream and Peach Coulis

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OCTOBER 2011


Don’t miss october’s Farmto-Fork Dinner! sat., oct. 22, 6:30pm $49.95, 573.332.7447 Monarch Restaurant and Southern Bistro chef Josh Galliano will serve a five-course meal featuring Jones Heritage Farm & Market products. Call for reservations. Seating is limited.

HEALTH NOTIFICATION

Are You Hard of Hearing? A major name brand hearing aid provider wishes to field test a remarkable new digital hearing instrument in the area. This offer is free of charge and you are under no obligation. These revolutionary 100% Digital instruments use the latest technology to comfortably and almost invisibly help you hear more clearly. This technology solves the "stopped up ears," "head in a barrel" sensation some people experience, and have been clinically demonstrated to improve hearing in noisy environments. If you wish to participate, you will be required to have your hearing tested in our office FREE OF CHARGE to determine candidacy. You will be asked to report your results with the hearing instruments each week, for a two week period. At the end of this period, you may purchase your instrument, if you so desire, at a significantly reduced charge. Otherwise, there is no fee whatsoever for participating in this field test. Special testing will be done to determine the increased benefits of this technology. Benefits of hearing aids vary by type and degree of hearing loss, noise environment, accuracy of hearing test, and proper fit. This is a wonderful opportunity to determine if hearing help is available for your hearing loss while you evaluate your performance with this technology.

Call now if you wish to be included in this field trial test.

FIELD TRIAL IS AVAILABLE SEPT 26 - OCT 31

VISIT YOUR BELTONE HEARING CARE CENTER TODAY MISSOURI ILLINOIS Brentwood O’Fallon West County South County

Florissant Farmington Cape Girardeau Festus

Washington St. Charles Poplar Bluff Chippewa

Helping the world hear better 1-866-979-8993 CALL TOLL FREE (Please dial 1 first)

Most Insurance Accepted Financing Available

*To qualified candidates.

Alton Marion Edwardsville DuQuoin

Harrisburg Fairfield O’Fallon Granite City

Mt. Vernon Carbondale Olney

6 months same as cash*

www.midwestbeltone.com CODE: FEAST 092511

Inspired Food Culture

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79


AUTOMOTIVE AUTOMOBILE & MOTORCYCLE STORAGE The Finest in Climate Controlled Storage Close to Clayton and Ladue 314-993-1330 or Kevin@stlouiscarmuseum.com I BUY RUNNING USED CARS Get More Money Then A Tax Deduction Cash Paid On The Spot Call Sam 314-302-2008

BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES PET FRANCHISE Owners of 2 Prime Kennel Franchise Territories. For Detailed Information and Locations of Businesses. parriottlynne@rocketmail.com

CATERERS / EVENT PLANNING SUGAR POP SWEETS Cake PopsïMonogrammed Cookiesï Cupcakes Specialize in Weddings, Bridal Showers & Baby Showers Place an order at SugarPopSweets@gmail.com SWEETEN UP YOUR NEXT EVENT!!

CLEANING SERVICES POWER WASHING SAFELY Non Destructive to Glass & Screen Windows, Decks, Awnings, Gutters Siding and Paint. Chandeliers & Lighting Inside & Outside Drapery/Upholstery Cleaning Onsite Bright Cleaning Specialists Tom Novak, Owner 314-484-0128 ï Brightclean.net Fully Insured ï Free Estimates

FOR SALE

APPLIANCES

Last Years In Stock Inventory Only

SAVE OVER 50%

•U-Line•Thermador•Blanco •Sub Zero•Fisher Paykel (314) 662-6333 Premiergw@aol.com

Weekly, Bi-Weekly, Monthly Move In • Move Out

SELL IT FAST! CALL (800) 365-0820 ext. 6666

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OCTOBER 2011

LAWN & GARDEN

Reglaze Your BathTub & Tile!

ï Back Splashes ï Sinks ï Colors Available & Free Estimates Contemporary Refinishing

Marc 314-520-0857

TUCKPOINTING

ALL TYPES TUCKPOINTING Serving St. Louis for over 40 years Mortar Color Matching Brick Cleaning Bricklaying Stone Work Power Washing Caulking Waterproofing & Sealing

LAKE MICHIGAN Waterfront Homes for Sale Go To www.Andreacrossman.com or Call 616-355-6387 Andrea Crossman

REAL ESTATE FOR SALE

Written Guarantee No Job Too Small Credit Cards Accepted Insured

KEN'S HANDYMAN SERVICE Carpentry, Electrical, Plumbing, Painting, Gutter Cleaning and Hauling. Over 25 Yrs. Exp. Ref's. Insured. Call Ken 314-567-6900

HEALTHCARE SERVICES

Outdoors Solutions

Landscape Design & Installation, Retaining Walls, Paver Patios. Drainage & Pruning

636-296-5050

Free Estimate

AERATION, SEEDING & RELIABLE LAWN MOWING Total Lawn Treatments and Lawn Maintenance. West County. 636-530-1998 or 314-591-2787 Calls Returned Promptly SHEARN LANDSCAPING JOHN'S SHORTCUTS Lawn Care & Grass Cutting Fertilization & Mulching Free Estimates 314-602-2757

Home Helpers is your #1 source affordable, dependable care for all ages by compassionate caregivers. •

RN Supervised

Meal Preparation

Housekeeping Errands • Recuperative Care •

314.961.1002 636.391.0000

www.homehelpersstl.com COLLEGE DEGREED CAREGIVERS provide care and companionship. Why accept less? A competitively priced option. Care manager/clinical staff available. AAA screened/bonded. Preferred choice since 1987. StaffLink/Gretchen 314-477-3434

CONSTRUCTION INC.

314-772-0190 314-771-7622 FAX

RUGS FRENCHTOWN RUG CLEANING ORIENTAL/AREA RUGS FREE PICK UP & DELIVERY (636) 949-0753 www.frenchtownrugcleaning.com

SERVICES

HANDYMAN SERVICES

Mike 314-426-3838

TWO LADIES & A BUCKET Two Are Better Than One! Deep & Thorough Cleaning Service Please Contact Susie Duncan at: 314-229-1736 www.twoandabucket.com

PRECISION REMODELING Since 1990 - Interior & Exterior We Are Here For All Your Home Improvement Needs & Repairs. Free Estimates! Fully Insured. Call Bob (314) 799-4633 or Jim (314) 799-4630

FOR THE HOME

On Call 24/7 Insured/Bonded and Carefully Screened

Affordable Cleaning for Any Budget

Sam 314-330-9825

DAN MILBOURN

• Bathing/Personal Care •

Your Satisfaction Guaranteed Insured & Bonded

Pruning Licensed/Insured

STEVE GRESS TUCKPOINTING Solids and Spot Tuckpointing with Color Match. Stone Basement Restoration.....and More. Prompt Free Estimates. Insured. 314-645-8991 or 636-947-2133 Member BBB MC/Visa Accepted

LADUE SCHOOLS Newly Remodeled Charming, 3BR, 1BA, Two Car Garage. Non Smoking. Fully Furnished, $1500 Available September 20. 314-993-5472

Stump Grinding Storm Damage

FLOORING/TILE

REAL ESTATE FOR RENT

SCRUPULOUS CARE Tree & Crane Service

ACCOUNTS OUT OF BALANCE? QuickBooks help for small businesses. 18 years banking experience, 10 years QuickBooks experience. No job too small. Jane 314-680-2929

CALIFORNIA PSYCHIC Available for Private and Corporate Events. Loads of Fun and a Little Eerie. 314-395-2083

WOOD FLOOR REFINISHING 25-yr. Old Fully Insured Company. Sanding, Refinishing, Repairs, New Installation. Free Estimates. PROFESSIONAL FLOORS OF ST. LOUIS 314-843-4348 www.profloorstl.com

THE WELL BEHAVED PET.... For all your home training needs. New Puppy, Puppy Mill Rescue Dogs or Behavioral Problems. Call me, I can help. Laura @ 636-456-9993

HOME IMPROVEMENT

Entertainment Mary Kraemer 314.801.1326 mary@mk-accounting.com

VISITING ANGELS 24/7 Companion Care for Seniors. Personal Care, Meal Prep, Light Housekeeping & Peace of Mind. 314-569-9890

TREES

J. Graves Exterior Cleaning LLC Roof Cleaning, Gutter Cleaning, Pressure Washing, Window Washing Fully Insured & Free Estimates Justin (314) 962-4220 www.jgravesexteriorcleaning.com

PET SERVICES

GET ORGANIZED FOR 2012 Experienced in Personal, Professional Accounting & Bookkeeping Perfect for small businesses or personal bookkeeping. Quickbooks knowledgeable. Affordable rates.

HEALTHCARE SERVICES

CLEANING SERVICES

ACCOUNTING/TAXES

PAINTING PAINTER/PROFESSIONAL 26 Years of Experience. Interior/Exterior Painting. Deck, Dry Wall Repair, Wallpaper Removal. Free Estimates & Insured. 314-567-7957 or 314-629-7852 MOUNTJOY DESIGNS by Carey Johnson, Certified in Faux Finishing Techniques by Decorating Masters Institute. Call 314-966-6346 www.mountjoydesigns.net JC PAINTS Interior/Exterior Painting Reliable, Clean & Reasonable. Insured. Call John for a free estimate 314-703-2794

$ CASH 4 OLD STUFF $ ————Light Hauling———— We Cleanup, Haul Away and/or purchase: Garage, Estate and Moving Sales! Also, Warehouse, Business & Storage Locker Leftovers! FAY FURNITURE 618-271-8200 AM BRIAN'S HAULING "U Name & We Haul It" 7 Days a Week - Same Day Appliances, Brush, Clean Outs, Demo, Basement & Garage, Etc. Brian 314-740-1659 BRIAN'S HAULING "U Name & We Haul It" 7 Days a Week - Same Day Appliances, Brush, Clean Outs, Demo, Basement & Garage, Etc. Brian 314-740-1659

Chimney & Complete Houses, Spot Tuckpointing with Color Match. Brick & Stone Repair. Flagstone & Patio Repair. Basement Waterproofing. Caulking, Silicon Waterproofing. Powerwashing. Prompt Free Est. Fully Insured. 314-645-8991 or 636-947-2133 Member of BBB MC or Visa Accepted

20 Years in Business! 6 Consecutive Service Award Winner from '05-'10. Complete Tuckpointing and Spotpointing with Color Match. Chimney, Stone and Brick Repair, Waterproofing. Insured. Prompt Free Estimates. (314) 645-1387 Credit Cards Accepted Mirellituckpointing.com

ALLEN'S HAULING SERVICE 15, 20 and 30 Yard Trash Containers. Hauling Service. No Job Too Big Or Small. Any Type of Trash Removal. 314-621-0481 or 581-7274

All Tuck Pointing Basement Work Chimney Repair Painting Carpentry Repair Caulking Step Repair Foundation Roofing New/Repair Waterproofing All Work Guaranteed DON 314-865-0558 A+ Rating with B.B.B.

TREES

VACATION RENTALS

TREES TRIMMED & REMOVED

GILLS

TREE SERVICE •Stone Retaining Walls •Stump Grinding •Bucket Truck Service

(636) 274-1378 Insured

GULF COAST HOUSE OR CONDO Carillon Beach, FL, Destin Area 3BR, 3BA, Beach House or Condo. Carillon has 3 pools, tennis courts and so much more! Avail. thru 2011. Call Dave at 314-922-8344 Great Rates. For Pictures Please Visit www.vrbo.com/148365 or /127089


VACATION RENTALS REGENTS PARK LONDON Modern 2 Bedroom Apartment. Convenient for Museums, Shopping, Theater. Wireless Internet Access. Highly Recommended. Call 314-569-2009

WANTED

WANTED

CHINESE ANTIQUES I AM BUYING IVORY - JADE - VASES AND JARS ART - HANGING SCROLLS CLOISONNE - RARE PIECES PLEASE CALL FOR APPOINTMENT LADUE LOCATION 314-503-4847 COLLECTOR WISHES TO PURCHASE Gun Collections â Old and New Antiques of Any Type Fishing Tackle Call Steve Lapin 314-571-9427 GUNS WANTED Licensed Federal Firearms Dealer Top Price Paid ï Any Condition YOU COME TO US OR WE'LL COME TO YOU 636-233-4544 Ask For MARK I BUY POSTCARDS! Stereoviews, Old Photographs, Documents, Letterheads, Movie Photos, Advertising, World's Fair, Railroad, Military, Political, Nautical & More. Mike 314-524-9400

Fall Indian Market Days at Cahokia Mounds

a unique holiday shopping event featuring Native American arts & crafts

15

THE LADUE NEWS W a s h i n g t o n Te r r a c e SHOW HOUSE

November 25-27, 2011 Friday noon - 5pm Saturday & Sunday 9am - 5pm

Cahokia Mounds State Historic Site 30 Ramey St. Collinsville, Illinois www.cahokiamounds.org 619-344-9221

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! A11 <83 =1<#8 $#5; AF+ 45CD!E F5% 31!D"8 8<;1! <! FG1: !G5@6<!1 FG1D# F<=18F! <F FG1 !%16F<6C=<# AG5@ ?5C!1 <F &)2 7<!GD8"F58 >1##<61+ 9$.0!."+- 12

6</8+=! %&' <0 4-:40/+) %&, 4= =>+ -.."( 6. *+0+#<=

...and a whole lot more.

7811 Clayton Rd. • 314-726-2220

Come Visit...

(3 Blks. East of Brentwood)

The Newest Winery in Augusta.

Noboleis Vineyards

Family owned, Noboleis Vineyards, begins it's first full season offering a full line of Estategrown, award-winning Missouri wines. Come join us for lunch and take in the views of the rolling vineyards surrounding the winery.

100 hemsath rd. augusta mo 63332 Open daily until 5pm Music on weekends May-October 636.482.4500

visit our website to check out upcoming events www.noboleisvineyards.com

#." 3."+ <0#."34=<.0 40- =. $;"/>4!+ =</8+=! :<!<= 54-;+0+7!(/.3

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OCTOBER 2011

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puLL up a chair

FLO chair wriTTen by Erin Callier

Wicker and cool are two words that don’t usually go together. But the Flo chair by designer Patricia Urquiola is just plain amazing – wicker and all. The ethnic lozenge pattern and striking structural form make the chair a diamond in the rough. $981; Centro, 4727 McPherson Ave., Central West End, centro-inc.com

Local designers pair three different dining tables with this distinctive chair:

Bridge taBle

FranK taBle

“The graceful and smooth form of this table counteracts the playful, handmade quality of the chair’s cane design. Mixing rustic, tactile elements with structured architectural ones can provide the basis for a unique design statement. both of these pieces lend themselves to a more refined, contemporary look, but they can also bend toward eclectic depending on how accessories are brought into the mix.”

82

“Create a casual and very current dining space by pairing the tribal-patterned Flo chair with the Frank Table from Jayson Home. The midcentury aesthetic of this round, wood veneer table with a hammered-iron base is a quirky balance to the bold pattern of the Flo chair. Also, the size and simplicity of this round table will allow the unique chair to make a maximum impact in a minimal space.”

Mandi Maurer Gray, Mandi Maurer Gray Interior Design

Heather Channell, Affordable Kitchens & Baths

$2,195 to $2,695 depending on size; Design Within Reach, dwr.com

$3,695; Jayson Home, jaysonhome.com

feastSTL.com

OCTOBER 2011

Knight Base taBle

“The Flo chair is a compromise between a minimal, sculptural form and an almost primitive aesthetic. The two-toned diamond pattern adds just the right amount of curiosity to the chair’s kinetic design. This oversized table’s organic walnut top evokes the same natural element as the Flo chair, and the sculptural legs mimic the chair’s form.”

Jacob Laws, CURE Design Group Starting at $12,900; CURE Design Group, curedesigngroup.com


Missouri's #1 Automotive Group There Can Only Be One #1 Source, bureau of Missouri Automotive registration 2010.

MISSOURI'S #1 INFINITI RETAILER* WITH MISSOURI'S LARGEST INVENTORY

G25 SEDAN, G37 SEDAN, G37 COUPE, G37 CONVERTIBLE, EX35, FX35, FX50, M37, M56, QX56

1.9

%

APR AVAILABLE

2011 INFINITI QX56 "WHERE PRICE SELLS CARS"

INFINITI West County

SALES - SERVICE - PARTS - COLLISION REPAIR

15736 Manchester at Clarkson Rd. • (636) 391-9400 • 800-367-2289 www.BommaritoInfiniti.com *Based On 2010 Sales Summary Infiniti Motor Division, Nissan North America


Jersey pullover knit with ruffle neck, $59.

Call 1-800-345-5273 to find a Dillard’s store near you.


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