October 2020 Feast Magazine

october 2020

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feastmagazine.com / a ug ust 2 0 2 0

©2020 The Boston Beer Company, Boston, MA

Savor The Flavor Responsibly.®

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Escape to the great outdoors in Springfield, Missouri, where you will find endless activities in the beautiful Ozarks and one-of-a-kind dining options that will give you the break you need this fall. And for those times you head indoors for some fun at Johnny Morris’ Wonders of Wildlife National Museum & Aquarium or enjoy a craft brew from one of our local breweries in our Ozarks Tap & Pour Tour, wear your mask to keep yourself and others safe.

Plan your Getaway at

SpringfieldMo.org

A masking ordinance is in place for the city of Springfield. For details, visit SpringfieldMo.org. / o c to be r 2 02 0

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Inspired Local Food Culture /

midwest

october

2020

Volume 10 / Issue 9 Publisher

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

EDITORIAL

sales

Editor in chief

general manager

Heather Riske, hriske@feastmagazine.com managing editor

Susan Eckert, seckert@laduenews.com 314.269.8838

Rachel Huffman, rhuffman@feastmagazine.com

Special projects coordinator

assistant editor

Aubrey Byron, abyron@feastmagazine.com

Kasey Carlson, kcarlson@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor

FEAST TV

37

crown jewels

41

hot off the press

producer: Catherine Neville

Jenny Vergara

production partner: Tybee Studios

St. Louis Contributing Editor

Mabel Suen

Contact Us

fact checker

Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1260, feastmagazine.com

Karen Parkman Proofreader

Alecia Humphreys

Distribution

Contributing Writers

Julia Calleo, Gabrielle DeMichele, Amanda Elliott, April Fleming, Teresa Floyd, Hilary Hedges, Burk Krohe, Liz Miller, JC Sandt, Nancy Stiles, Jenn Tosatto, Jessica Vaughn Martin, Shannon Weber

ART

To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Eric Freeman for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at efreeman@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

46

Art Director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Contributing Photographers

In Des Peres, Missouri, Meggie Mobley handcrafts bonbons that are as beautiful as they are delicious.

Marissa and Mark Gencarelli make traditional tortillas at Yoli Tortilleria in Kansas City.

hot jams These five recipes highlight Missourimade jams.

Zach Bauman, Julia Calleo, Teresa Floyd, Gregg Goldman, Sean Locke, Paige McDonald, Aaron Ottis, Matt Seidel, Jennifer Silverberg, Kim Wade Contributing illustrator

Meg Wagler

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork.

Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2020 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.

on the cover Hand-painted bonbons from Bijoux Handcrafted Chocolates in Des Peres, Missouri, by Jennifer Silverberg table of contents Corn and Sonoran-style flour tortillas from Yoli Tortilleria in Kansas City by Zach Bauman

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/ 11 / the dish The Beast

/ 24 / MIDWEST MADE

Popcorn

/ 12 / ONE INGREDIENT 3 ways Tempeh

/ 25 / ONE ON ONE Freddie L. James, Jr. and Deborah James of Freddie Lee’s Gourmet Sauces

/ 14 / on trend

Frozen pizza / 16 / healthy appetite Fresh carrot pasta with black walnut pesto / 18 / One on One Jessica Schlanker of The Holistic Hog / 20 / mystery shopper Kabocha squash / 22 / Shop Here The Candy Factory

/ 26 / SUGAR RUSH

Maple-pecan sticky buns / 28 / quick fix Roast chicken with port-soaked figs / 29 / culinary library Cheryl Bisbee of Boozy Botanicals / 30 / crash course Mushrooms

MEET US IN AUGUSTA

Classic Nostalgia, Elevated Ingredients TRY THESE UNIQUE SPINS ON A FAVORITE COCKTAIL Mix up your palate with these spins on one of the most ordered drinks around the world. These elevated Jack & Coke remixes take a unique twist on the #1 branded highball and are sure to impress any guest.

JACK & COKE PEACH MULE

VISIT US THIS FALL DURING OUR 10TH ANNIVERSARY YEAR

Open Daily 11am-5pm closed tuesday’s

please head to our website to plan your next winery visit with us!

noboleisvineyards.com 100 Hemsath Road Augusta, MO 63332

636 . 482 . 4500 or info@noboleisvineyards.com

SERVES | 1 | • 1 1/2 oz Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey • 1/2 oz peach to purée • 1

1/2

oz Coca-Cola

• 1

1/2

oz ginger beer

| PREPARATION |

Add first three ingredients to a shaker and lightly shake.

Add ginger beer to tin, and strain over ice. Garnish with a lemon wheel or peach and mint sprig.

JACK & COKE REFRESH SERVES | 1 | • 1 1/2 oz Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey • 1

1/2

oz Coca-Cola

• 1/2 oz simple syrup • 1/2 oz fresh lemon juice • 2 slices fresh cucumber | PREPARATION |

Fill a cocktail shaker 1/2 full of ice. Add all ingredients and shake vigorously for 20-30 seconds. Fill 1/2 a rocks glass with cubed ice. Strain into glass and garnish with a lemon wedge.

/ o c to be r 2 02 0

7

Letter

from the

Publisher

I

’ve always been drawn to the work of makers – craftspeople who have honed their skills over time to create products that are personal and unique. Today, these artisans are seeing opportunities expand as consumers demand traceability and transparency in the food supply chain and also want to know who and what their dollars are supporting.

as Kraft and Tyson and Coca-Cola, now you can buy artisan cheeses or bacon made from local pork and have your pick of small-batch beverages such as kombucha.

It’s a welcome change. Not only for the health of local and regional economies but also for our taste buds. These locally made foods are almost invariably of higher quality than their big-batch A million years ago when I started counterparts, and often, makers covering the food industry, it was will source their raw ingredients something of a novelty to have locally. We’ve devoted this issue I’m back in the kitchen, developing recipes for our new seasonal cooking video series. farmers listed on a restaurant menu. to some of our region’s notable Look for the first six-video installment featuring flavorful fall dishes such as these I can remember attending a Chef’s makers – and these are only a few stuffed chicken breasts to hit feastmagazine.com this month!

Collaborative dinner at The Crossing of the makers that you should know. that not only featured local produce on the menu but brought the farmers There are hundreds of people in our region who strive to create products they to the dining room, connecting them directly with consumers. At the time, are proud to share with food-lovers like you. The next time you’re at the market, that act of placing the farmer on a pedestal alongside the chef seemed take a moment to look for local items and you’ll be rewarded with products of revolutionary. Today, of course, sourcing locally is not only commonplace, it’s outstanding quality as well as the satisfaction of knowing you are supporting the expected. Much, thankfully, has changed in the U.S. food system over the past work of your neighbors – our local and regional artisans. couple of decades. And along with the explosion of interest in local growers, we’ve also seen a welcome expansion of opportunities for makers.

Until next time,

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Catherine Neville

publisher@feastmagazine.com

PHOTOGR APHY BY MATT SEIDEL

The term “maker” encompasses people who craft a huge variety of products – jams and jellies, bread and pastries, pickles, ferments, chocolates, wine, cheese, beer, cured meats, spirits… The rise of the maker is the next phase in the evolution of how Americans eat. It began at farmers’ markets and has expanded to regional and even national grocery chains. Where grocery store shelves used to only feature mass-produced products from behemoths such

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9

PROMOTION

NOTHING COMPLEMENTS COOL WEATHER LIKE A WARM BOWL OF SOUP Earthy, sweet smells of sautéed aromatics and spices fill the house and encompass

BUTTERNUT SQUASH POZOLE SERVES 8

you like a warm hug. Not only nutritious for the body but comforting for the soul,

4 guajillo chilis

soup is one my favorite things to make as the weather begins to cool. Everything

2 Tbsp olive oil

from light vegetable soup to hearty chili and filling stew, there is no shortage of variety or flavor combinations. At my house, even the pickiest eaters can’t resist the way soup transforms various vegetables and proteins into melt-in-your-mouth goodness. It’s a well-balanced meal the whole family enjoys—a win-win if you ask me.

Another reason I love to make soup is that it’s easy to substitute ingredients and recipes are flexible. If I start to make a recipe and realize I’m missing an ingredient, I can usually find a quick substitute I have in the house. Recipes for soups have become guidelines, giving me the opportunity to be creative in the kitchen or simply use whatever I can find in my refrigerator and pantry. The most important step is to taste as you go. It’s easy to tweak the soup with a pinch of this and a sprinkle of that until you have the perfect combination of flavors.

This month’s recipe takes a unique spin on a traditional Mexican stew, swapping out pork shoulder with butternut squash. This seasonal squash adds a sweetness

1 medium white onion, diced 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 Tbsp cumin 2 tsp oregano 1 small butternut squash, diced 1 ½ cups crushed tomatoes 15 oz can hominy, drained ½ cup wild rice, uncooked 6 cups vegetable broth 2 cups water 2 bay leaves 1 lime, halved Salt and pepper to taste

that complements the spicy chilies and earthy hominy that won’t disappoint. Since

PREPARATION

many of us are cooking most meals at home, soup can be a simple way to change

Remove the tops of the chilis and shake out seeds. In a large ovenproof

up the weekly dinner routine. So take a look in your pantry with a new lens and use

pot, toast whole chilis over medium high heat, about 5 minutes.

my recipe as your guide and inspiration to whipping up a warm, cozy bowl of soup.

Remove chilis and set to the side. Add olive oil and onions to the hot large ovenproof pot. Cook until onions are translucent, about 5 minutes.

Add in garlic, cumin and oregano, cooking until fragrant, about 1 minute.

SPONSORED CONTENT BY ALLISON PRIMO SCHNUCKS REGISTERED DIETITIAN

Add in squash, toasted chili peppers, tomatoes, hominy, rice, vegetable broth, water and bay leaves. Bring up to a simmer and allow to cook 30-45 minutes, until squash is tender and rice is cooked through.

Remove chili peppers and stir in juice from 1 lime. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Enjoy topped with fresh chives, sliced radishes and sliced avocados.

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THE DISH / 3 ways / on trend / HEALTHY APPETITE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / SHOP HERE / MIDWEST MADE / SUGAR RUSH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

the beast If you appreciate great wine, small-batch chocolate, local cheese and other artisanal goods, stop by Parker’s Table in Richmond Heights, Missouri, the next time you need to restock your pantry. Currently operating a walk-up counter outside, the shop also offers some of the city’s best sandwiches, thanks to a partnership with local cured meat company Salume Beddu. Its compact kitchen dishes out fan favorites such as The Beast made with Salume Beddu salsiccia fiama – a southern Italian-style sausage packed with garlic, chile, smoked paprika, toasted fennel seeds and red wine. Smothered in housemade peperonata – a sweet and spicy combination of peppers and onion – and whole-grain mustard, The Beast takes the humble sausage to the next level. –Burk Krohe

Recipe courtesy of Steven Caravelli, head chef, Parker’s Table Photography by gregg goldman

yields 4 sandwiches

“Nobody fits the description of [an] artisan more than Mark Sanfilippo, [owner of Salume Beddu]. He’s solely dedicated to one craft, and it comes across in his sausages and salami – all the things he makes – and [thus] our sandwiches.”

–Steven Caravelli

Peperonata 1 red bell pepper 1 yellow bell pepper 1 poblano pepper, optional ¼ cup olive oil 2 cloves garlic, minced Try the ciabatta 1 white onion, sliced rolls from Fazio’s 2 Tbsp tomato paste Bakery in St. Louis, 1 splash white wine which are sold at Parker’s Table. The Beast 4 links Salume Beddu salsiccia fiama 4 ciabatta rolls whole-grain mustard peperonata (recipe follows)

/ preparation – peperonata / Position cooking rack in top third of oven and set broiler to high. Place peppers on a lipped baking sheet; transfer to oven. Broil peppers until blackened and blistered all over, approximately 5 to 10 minutes, flipping peppers and rotating baking sheet as needed for even charring. Remove from oven and transfer peppers to a large bowl; cover to steam, 10 minutes. Uncover bowl and scrape blackened skin off peppers with a paring knife; remove cores and seeds and slice into strips.

Heat a frying pan over medium heat, 2 to 3 minutes, before adding oil; tilt pan to coat bottom. Add garlic; cook until fragrant, approximately 1 minute.

Add onion and peppers; stirring occasionally, cook until onion has softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add tomato paste; stirring occasionally, cook until paste turns a deep brick red, 3 to 4 minutes. Add wine and scrape any brown bits off bottom of pan. Continue cooking until wine has completely evaporated and then transfer peperonata to a heatproof bowl. Set aside. / preparation – the beast / Place salsiccia fiama in a pot (or Dutch oven); add enough water to cover links. Set pot over low medium heat and bring water to a simmer (do not boil); poach salsiccia fiama, 10 to 12 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat oven to 450ºF. Using tongs, remove salsiccia fiama from water and place on a lipped baking sheet. Transfer to oven to crisp, 5 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool. Once cooled, slice each link in half lengthwise and then cut into bite-size pieces. On a clean work surface, slice rolls in half; slather top and bottom halves of each with mustard. On bottom half of each roll, add a heaping spoonful of peperonata; top with a heaping spoonful of salsiccia fiama. Finish with top half of each roll.

Slice on an angle and serve.

Brian Moxey

executive chef

Pastaria

Salume Beddu

“I love Salume Beddu and the products [Sanfilippo] makes. For the salami sandwich at the deli [inside Pastaria], we’ve been featuring the salame cittá or soppressata Siciliano. The flavors really make that sandwich a star and one of our bestsellers.” / o c to be r 2 02 0

11

THE DISH / 3 ways / on trend / HEALTHY APPETITE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / SHOP HERE / MIDWEST MADE / SUGAR RUSH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

yields 6 "sausages"

Maple Tempeh Breakfast Sausage

Order Confluence Kombucha tempeh – uncooked and ready to grill or stir-fry at home – in an 8- or 24-ounce portion online at confluencekombucha.com.

6 1 1 2 2 ¹⁄₃ 1 1 ¹⁄₈ ¹⁄₈ ½

oz tempeh shallot, diced Tbsp minced garlic Tbsp maple syrup Tbsp olive or coconut oil, divided cup panko bread crumbs tsp kosher salt tsp freshly ground black pepper tsp ground nutmeg tsp ground cinnamon tsp red pepper flakes

/ preparation / Add tempeh to the bowl of a food processor; pulse until small crumbles form. Transfer crumbled tempeh to a medium mixing bowl; add shallot, garlic, maple syrup and 1

tablespoon oil and stir to combine. Set aside.

In a small bowl, combine bread crumbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon and red pepper flakes; add mixture to tempeh mixture. Using your hands, mix and pack both mixtures together. Divide sausage into 6 balls and then smash each between your palms to form patties. In a skillet over medium high heat, add remaining oil.

Once oil is hot, carefully slide patties, two at a time (depending on the size of your skillet), into skillet; fry until golden brown, approximately 5 minutes per side. Repeat process with remaining patties. Serve hot alongside eggs – any way you like them.

serves 4

Lemony Roasted Broccoli and Tempeh Quinoa Bowl 4 cups broccoli florets (approximately 1 head broccoli) 1 Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice 2 Tbsp olive oil, divided 2 tsp garlic powder, divided 6 oz tempeh, cut into small squares 1 tsp kosher salt 4 cups cooked quinoa 2 Tbsp freshly chopped parsley / preparation / Preheat oven to

425°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a mixing bowl, add

broccoli, lemon juice, 1 tablespoon oil and 1 teaspoon garlic powder; toss to combine.

Spread out broccoli and tempeh in a single layer on prepared baking sheet. Drizzle with remaining oil; sprinkle with remaining garlic powder and salt. Transfer to oven and roast, approximately 25 minutes, flipping halfway through.

In a large mixing bowl, add quinoa. Remove broccoli and tempeh from oven and add to bowl; toss to incorporate. Spoon mixture into bowls, sprinkle with parsley and serve.

serves 4

Brussels Sprout, Tempeh and Soba Noodle Skillet

With a family divided into vegetarians and, well, non-vegetarians, I have had to get creative when “hosting” during the pandemic (i.e. inviting my parents – the vegetarians – over for a picnic). Finding a proper meat substitute was important to me in order to have a focus of my dishes, and this month, I hit the jackpot. Developing recipes using Confluence Kombucha tempeh, I was able to support a St. Louis establishment and make everyone happy at mealtime. For me, tempeh, rather than tofu, is where it’s at. I love the earthy, nutty flavor and the chewy texture. story, recipes and photography by Julia Calleo, writer and recipe developer, mylavenderblues.com

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Sauce (Yields approximately ½ cup) 4 Tbsp soy sauce or liquid aminos 2 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce 1 Tbsp rice vinegar 1 Tbsp sesame oil 1 Tbsp ketchup 1 Tbsp honey 1 tsp garlic powder Skillet 6 oz tempeh 1 Tbsp vegetable oil 2 tsp freshly minced ginger 1 tsp minced garlic 2 cups Brussels sprouts, ends removed and quartered 1½ cups shredded red cabbage 2 cups diced carrot 1 lb soba noodles, cooked sauce (recipe follows) ¹⁄₃ cup chopped green onion (lighter green parts)

/ preparation – sauce / In a small bowl, add

all ingredients; whisk together. Set aside. / preparation – skillet / Add tempeh to the bowl of a food processor; pulse until small crumbles form. Set aside.

In a large skillet over medium heat, add oil, ginger and garlic; cook until ginger becomes fragrant, approximately 1 minute.

(Do not let garlic burn here.) Add crumbled tempeh; cook, 6 minutes. Add Brussels sprouts, cabbage and carrot; cook, 12 to 15 minutes or until vegetables begin to soften. Add soba noodles and ¾ of the prepared sauce; toss to combine and cook, 2 more minutes. Add more sauce as desired. Garnish with green onion and serve.

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THE DISH / 3 ways / on trend / HEALTHY APPETITE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / SHOP HERE / MIDWEST MADE / SUGAR RUSH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Gioia’s Deli ▶ Three words: hot salami pizza. Gioia’s Deli, the beloved St. Louis sandwich shop, now offers three of its most popular sandwiches in the form of frozen pizza: The Original (hot salami, cheese and pepperoncini), Spicy Daggett (hot salami, chopped coppa, chopped capicola and giardiniera) and Porknado (hot salami, chopped ham and bacon). Gioia’s sells approximately 200 pizzas a week, and owner Alex Donley says the company did not have to lay off any commissary crew members as a result. The frozen pizzas can be ordered online at gioiasdeli.com and picked up at the location on The Hill or in Creve Coeur. photo by paige mcdonald

The Big Slice The Big Slice brings a taste of The Big Apple to Springfield, Missouri, with its giant, cheesy slices of New York-style pizza. The pizza place, which has two locations in town, now offers 14-inch frozen pizzas ranging from classics such as cheese and pepperoni to creamy spinach and The Burt Reynolds (ham, bacon, onion and pineapple).

Want to play with your food? The Big Slice also sells dough and sauce for customers to make their own pizzas at home. thebigslicespringfield.com

Garbo’s Pizzeria Garbo’s Pizzeria in Springfield, Missouri, has been offering frozen versions of its St. Louis-style pizzas for local fundraisers for approximately a decade, but the popular pizza joint didn’t start selling them to the public until the pandemic hit. The restaurant relies almost entirely on dine-in service, so co-owner Laine Scholz says the frozen pizzas were a way to keep the business alive.

The 12-inch thin-crust pies are available in flavors such as cheese, pepperoni and barbecue chicken, or you can choose two toppings and create your own. garbospizzeria.com

Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria You can now bake a signature wood-fired pie from Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria at home. When COVID-19 hit, the renowned St. Louis-area restaurant started selling frozen pizzas for local delivery as a way to protect its employees’ livelihoods. The idea was so successful that Katie’s soon launched delivery throughout the Midwest. Head to katiespizza.com to order pizzas in flavors such as lemonasparagus, artichoke-black garlic, meatball or burrata Margherita; orders are shipped on Mondays and Tuesdays and arrive at your doorstep within one to two days.

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When COVID-19 temporarily shuttered restaurants around the region, many began looking for new ways to boost their bottom line and keep their employees on the payroll. Enter frozen pizza, which gives restaurants an easy, economical way to get their food into customers’ hands. And with diners spending more time in the kitchen, take-and-bake pizzas allow restaurants to still get a slice of the pie. –Heather Riske

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Fresh a t s a Þ t o Carr

THE DISH / 3 ways / on trend / HEALTHY APPETITE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / SHOP HERE / MIDWEST MADE / SUGAR RUSH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

with Black Walnut Pest

o

Naturally bold flavor and incredible versatility define wild black walnuts.

Native to the Midwest, they’re a Missouri locavore staple.

Their flavor is more floral and bitter than their cousin, the English walnut, and they can be a bit trickier to crack because of their extremely hard exterior. Lucky for us, Hammons Products Co. does all the heavy lifting at its plant in Stockton, Missouri, where it shells approximately 25 million pounds of black walnuts a year. This pesto recipe accents the earthiness of black walnuts, which is complemented by the richness of the Parmesan. And it all pairs beautifully with homemade carrot pasta.

Story and recipe by Amanda Elliott, chef-owner, Beet Box in Columbia, Missouri photography by kim wade

serves 4 Carrot Pasta 2 large carrots 1 tsp olive oil 4 egg yolks 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 1 tsp salt, plus more to salt water Look for Hammons black walnuts 2 Tbsp shaved Parmesan, for garnish at a grocery store near you, or

order a bag at black-walnuts.com.

Black Walnut Pesto (Yields 3 cups) ½ cup black walnuts 10 cloves garlic, peeled To further immerse yourself ¾ cup olive oil in the unique flavor profile reserved carrot purée (recipe follows) of black walnuts, replace the ¾ cup shaved Parmesan olive oil here with Hammons 2 cups cilantro roasted black walnut oil.

1 cup mint salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

/ preparation – carrot pasta / In a medium saucepan, bring 2 cups water to a boil. Add carrots and reduce heat; simmer until tender, approximately 10 minutes.

Drain carrots; add to a food processor along with oil and purée. Once smooth, measure ½ cup carrot purée; set the rest aside.

In the bowl of a stand mixer, add ½ cup carrot purée, egg yolks, flour and salt. Using your hands, combine until a shaggy dough forms. Attach dough hook to mixer and mix until dough becomes smooth and elastic, 5 to 7 minutes. If dough is too sticky, add more flour as needed. Cover bowl and let dough rest, 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the black walnut pesto (recipe follows).

PA I R IT! pair with: Aperitif

In pairing, this dish provides a complex challenge, requiring a spirit that works well with both the sweetness of the carrots and the bitter earthiness of the black walnuts. Enter 1220 Artisan Spirits’ Flora, an aperitif with citrus sweetness, floral notes and a slightly bitter finish. I’m a fan of bubbles with pasta, so I recommend using Flora in a spritz. Add 2 ounces Flora, 3 ounces Prosecco and 1 ounce soda water to a Champagne flute; gently stir to combine. Express oils of 1 lemon twist over top, drop twist into drink for garnish and serve. –jenn Tosatto 1220spirits.com

Fill a large saucepan with water and season liberally with salt; bring water to a boil.

Meanwhile, divide rested dough into four equal pieces. Take one piece, covering the others; flatten slightly, flour and feed through a pasta machine, starting at the widest setting. Run dough through each setting, from 0 to 4, twice. Transfer pasta sheet to a floured work surface to dry slightly. Repeat process with remaining pieces of dough. If you don’t have a pasta machine, you can roll the pieces of dough into ¹⁄₈-inch-thick sheets using a rolling pin on a floured work surface.

If your pasta machine has an attachment for linguine, feed each sheet of dough through that cutter. If not, cut each sheet of dough into ¼-inch-wide strips with a sharp knife. Separate the strips and dust with flour. Carefully slide pasta into boiling water; cook until al dente, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain pasta, reserving ½ cup pasta water. Toss pasta with ¹⁄₃ cup black walnut pesto and enough pasta water to create a creamy texture. Garnish with Parmesan and serve immediately. / preparation – black walnut pesto / Add all ingredients to the bowl of a food processor; pulse, occasionally scraping down the sides of the bowl, until a thick pesto has formed. Check seasoning and adjust if necessary. Set aside.

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PROMOTI ON

Popping with flavor—a great low-calorie snack AMARANTH Like quinoa, amaranth is considered a “pseudograin”: It’s a seed, not a grain, meaning it’s also gluten free and low in carbohydrates.

Popping amaranth is simple: Bring a dry (no oil needed), high-walled pot to medium-high heat for about five minutes, then add about a tablespoon of kernels. Gently shake the pot as the amaranth begins to pop. Don’t cover with a lid — let the steam work its magic!

Popped amaranth has a nutty flavor and is a great source of iron.

POPCORN

SPONSORED CONTENT BY KATHERINE LEWIS

For a snack that’s almost light as air, popcorn manages to deliver some hefty benefits. “While popcorn may not sit on the grocery store aisle next to whole-grain classics like 100% whole-wheat bread and whole-oats cereal, it is, in fact, a whole grain that can be quite nutritious,” says Hank Dart, a health communications lead who works in prevention and control for the Siteman Cancer Center at Washing ton University School of Medicine. “It’s relatively high in fiber, has a number of vitamins and minerals and, depending on how it’s prepared, can also be quite low in calories. ”Among these essential vitamins are riboflavin, folate, thiamin and niacin.

To help keep calories in check, Dart sug gests buying whole kernels and popping them in an air popper or on the stove in a covered pan with a small amount of canola oil. Rather than drenching popcorn in melted butter and seasoning with a lot of salt, try introducing flavor by spicing it up with herbs, such as paprika or rosemary. “If you like the convenience of store-bought popcorn, there can be healthy options,” Dart says, “but they can be harder to find. Look for

bag ged choices that are low in sodium, saturated fat and sugar.”

When popcorn is prepared in a health-conscious way, it can be a very satisfying snack. Dart cites one small study that showed that a cup of fat-free popcorn could be just as filling as a cup of potato chips but with only one-tenth of the calories. He points out that although whole grains are an important part of a healthy diet — they’ve been found to lower the risk of diabetes, heart disease and certain cancers — most people fall Hank Dart short of getting their daily Washington University recommended three or more health communications lead in servings. “Popcorn can be a prevention and control tasty, healthy and fun way to PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER add more whole gains to your day,” Dart says.

What makes popcorn pop? The answer lies in its strong, water-resistant shell. As the kernel is heated, the water inside expands and pressure builds until it finally explodes, turning itself insideout. Popcorn that’s made on the stove or in an air popper is quite healthy — after all, it’s a whole grain with antioxidants and fiber. Just go easy on the salt and butter.

in good taste PRESENTED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

SORGHUM This ancien t g rain adds a subtle sweetness to all kinds of recipes.

Sor g h um ker nels are m uch smaller than popcor n ker nels , and even w hen they ’re cooked cor rec tly, not all of them will pop. (A Du tch oven with a lid wor k s well for cooking .)

Bu t those that blossom will have a lig h t and delicate taste.

Sor g h um is hig her in

QUINOA

Smoky Popcorn

This protein powerhouse is often cooked like rice,

YEILDS | 8 servings

but try popping it for a

3 Tbsp avocado oil or canola oil

¼ tsp smoked paprika

½ cup popcorn kernels

¼ tsp garlic powder

you f uller for longer.

with the grain, heat to medium, cover with a lid,

½ tsp kosher salt, finely ground

then shake the pot to get them cracking. Popped

| Preparation | Place oil and 1 or 2 kernels in a large pot over medium heat. Wait until

quinoa is smaller than

they pop, then add the rest of the popcorn kernels. Add salt at this step so popcorn is evenly covered. Carefully cover the pot with aluminum foil and poke holes into the foil to allow steam to escape. Shake pot throughout cooking, about 3 or 4 minutes. Remove from heat when popping slows. Carefully remove foil. Put popcorn into a large bowl and add paprika and garlic powder. Mix well and enjoy!

protein than traditional popcor n , so it ’ ll keep

brand-new twist. Coat the bottom of a dry pot

popped corn, so try using it as a topper for salads or roasted vegetables for a nice crunch — and a good dose of fiber, too.

PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

Nutrition Information: (per 2 cups) 57 calories, 6g fat, 80mg sodium, 1g carbohydrate, 0g fiber, 0g protein

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

WELLSVILLE, MO

with Jessica Schlanker / owner, The Holistic Hog

Written by Nancy Stiles / photography by aaron ottis

The motto of The Holistic Hog is simple: No bull, just butter. Owner Jessica Schlanker – one of just four licensed butter producers in Missouri – created her small business out of necessity. After she was diagnosed with lupus a few years ago, Schlanker had to learn to be a lot more thoughtful about the ingredients she put in her body. In 2018, she launched The Holistic Hog in Wellsville with her first flavor of handcrafted butter: steak butter. Free from added sugar, dyes and preservatives, it’s made with cream, garlic and a whole slew of savory herbs and spices. Schlanker has since grown her inventory to include 10 sweet and savory options, and she is building a herd of cows – including one handsome fellow named Odie – to produce her own cream. Frequently sold at the Lake St. Louis Farmers and Artists Market in addition to a variety of stores across the state, tubs of The Holistic Hog butter are also available online at theholistichog.com.

How did you get into buttermaking?

The Holistic Hog actually started out as a produce farm. I live in a very rural community, and I got led into [farming] when my health took a turn for the worse.

Trying to treat my illness with the proper diet, I realized that my options for goodquality food were very limited in my small town, especially because so many of the produce farmers around here [are part of] my grandparents’ generation. I thought, “What happens when they’re unable to do this? Who’s going to take over?” This is a need that is not being met around here.

I started making compound butters at home for my family’s use, and the first time I tried it, I was like, “Holy smokes! I’ve never had anything that tasted like this.”

Where do you source your ingredients?

I started my herd this year, and I’d hoped to be [able to produce] all the cream myself. Then COVID-19 happened; the

18

shutdown pushed everything back. That’s still a very important goal of mine to meet – that way I can take my butter to an even better level, knowing and finetuning how my cream is produced. At the moment, my cream comes from Illinois.

My herbs, everything else, is purchased within an hour radius of where I live here in Wellsville.

How do you develop new flavors? The most exciting aspect of what I do is using my creativity to think up things that have not been done before. When people see us out somewhere and they look at all our options, they’re usually totally blown away that butter comes in flavors. I would like to change the stigma that butter is boring, and I would like for people to start thinking of butter like they do ice cream.

Ice cream comes in tons of different flavors – people are always excited whenever they see a new flavor that they

feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 0

haven’t experienced before – and I would love for butter to be the same way.

How do you recommend people use your butters? I always tell people that there’s no right or wrong way to use them. If you like the flavor, you can put it on whatever you want. The steak butter’s not just good on steak – my family loves it on potatoes, vegetables [and] garlic bread. My favorite aspect, being a parent myself, is that these butters offer families convenience. It doesn’t matter if you had to work late, if you’re trying to feed your family something nutritious – real food – just throw a little bit of the butter in there. You have peace of mind knowing that whatever you’re making is going to taste good because that flavor of the butter is going to take it to the next level. You don’t have to worry about trying to get just the right blend of spices and herbs in there.

The aroma of oven-roasted garlic that defines the Garlic Parmesan Butter is intoxicating. Blended with real Parmesan and a handpicked selection of herbs and spices, it’s one of Schlanker’s bestsellers. She loves to add it to wings, but it also goes well with chicken, seafood and vegetables.

Start your day with a seasonally inspired flavor from The Holistic Hog. The Butter Pecan Butter is delicious in oatmeal and on bagels, muffins and donuts.

It’s made with real maple syrup, Missouri pecans and vanilla extract; Schlanker suggests substituting it for traditional butter in your favorite cookie recipe.

Last year, Schlanker introduced more than a few people to flavored butter – specifically, her Pumpkin Pie Butter – at Taste of St. Louis. “That was a really fun experience,” she says. The sweet and savory fall favorite combines fresh cream with pumpkin, brown sugar and pumpkin spice.

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THE DISH / 3 ways / on trend / HEALTHY APPETITE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / SHOP HERE / MIDWEST MADE / SUGAR RUSH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Those mottled green fairytale pumpkins can do more than decorate your front porch, friends.

Story and recipe by Shannon Weber, Writer and Recipe Developer, aperiodictableblog.com Photography by jennifer silverberg

20

What Is It?

What Do I Do With It?

One of the most fanciful squashes you’ll find this fall,

If you know me, you know that swooning over winter squash is going to happen every year like clockwork –

kabocha is squat, slightly bumpy and forest green on the

but kabocha deserves the adoration. One bite and you’ll taste luxurious notes of honeyed sweet potato

outside with flesh the color of a harvest moon. Although

and roasted chestnuts – a welcome combination this time of year. Roast unpeeled kabocha in slices or

it hails from Japan, today it’s easy to find in the Midwest;

cubes for concentrated flavor and crispy edges, perfect as a side dish or an ingredient in green salads

however, it’s often overlooked as people flock to familiar

and grain bowls. Peel and steam it to create silky purées and soups, or bake it into a fall gratin, alone

favorites such as acorn, delicata and butternut. Their

or alongside seasonal root vegetables. Kabocha squash is infinitely customizable depending on what

loss is your gain, and you’re going to love what kabocha

flavors you build into it; personally, I love it in a hearty rice salad. Roasted kabocha is gorgeous among

squash brings to your autumnal table.

any type of rice, but the nuttiness of forbidden rice (black rice) makes for an exceptional companion.

feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 0

In ancient China, forbidden rice, with its superior nutritional value and obvious beauty, was reserved for aristocracy and forbidden to anyone else. Fast-forward to today when, thankfully, we can all enjoy the antioxidant-packed grain without penalty. Look for it in Asian, international and wellstocked mainstream markets.

And while you’re there, grab some pomegranate molasses, which adds depth to this dish.

Kabocha Squash Forbidden Rice Salad with Lemon-Pomegranate Dressing serves 4

Lemon-Pomegranate Dressing ¼ cup pomegranate molasses juice of 2 medium lemons, strained

3 Tbsp rice vinegar ½ cup olive oil ½ tsp kosher salt Kabocha Squash Forbidden Rice Salad

1 medium kabocha squash, insides removed and cut into ³⁄₈-inch slices

2 tsp olive oil kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

3 cups cooked forbidden rice ½ cup fresh parsley, chopped, plus more for garnish ¹⁄₃ cup fresh mint, chopped, plus more for garnish lemon-pomegranate dressing, divided (recipe follows) 2 to 3 oz baby arugula

1 small red onion, cut into paper-thin slices and soaked in ice water ½ cup pumpkin seeds, roasted

/ preparation – lemon-pomegranate dressing / In a small bowl, whisk together pomegranate molasses, lemon juice and rice vinegar; stream in olive oil as you continue whisking and whisk until blended.

Add salt; whisk to incorporate. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. / preparation – kabocha squash forbidden rice salad / Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss kabocha in olive oil; generously season with salt and pepper. On a lipped baking sheet, lay out kabocha in a single layer.

Roast, 30 to 35 minutes, flipping halfway through.

Meanwhile, add rice, parsley and mint to a large bowl; add half of the dressing and toss to combine. Fold in arugula and mix until everything is combined; season with salt and pepper to taste. Divide onto plates and then layer 4 to 5 slices roasted kabocha and red onion on top of each portion. Divide pumpkin seeds on top and garnish with more fresh herbs. Check seasoning and adjust if necessary. Drizzle more dressing over salads, if desired, and serve warm or at room temperature.

PA I R IT! pair with: Chambourcin For this pairing, I sought a versatile wine that would add an extra layer of depth to the dish and stand up to the brightness of the pomegranate molasses. The award-winning Chambourcin from Red Moose Vineyard in Salem, Missouri, does just that. The fruit-forward flavors and earthy notes in the dry red elevate the richness of the kabocha squash and forbidden rice, while its acidity and soft tannins are a great match for the dressing. –Hilary Hedges redmoosevineyard.com

/ o c to be r 2 02 0

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THE DISH / 3 ways / on trend / HEALTHY APPETITE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / SHOP HERE / MIDWEST MADE / SUGAR RUSH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

COLUMBIA, MO ▶

The Candy Factory Written by Jessica Vaughn Martin / photography by aaron ottis

Opened in 1974 and bought by the Atkinson family in 1986, The Candy Factory in Columbia, Missouri, is now run by second-generation owner Mike Atkinson and his wife, Amy. Stamped with the family’s signature sweetness, every treat in the shop is either made or packaged in-house. Let yourself splurge on the selection of chocolate-covered goodies – from strawberries and cookies to peanuts, pretzels and potato chips – or satisfy your sweet tooth with sea-salt caramels made with The Candy Factory’s secret caramel recipe. The flavored popcorn – available in chocolate, caramel, birthday cake and cinnamon from the week of Thanksgiving until Christmas Eve – is also addictive, and the flavors of housemade fudge often reflect the season – maple-walnut or REESE’S Pieces, anyone? Devoted to the upkeep of the historic treasure almost as much as the preservation of his family’s recipes, Atkinson has created a delightful experience that sends customers, young and old, home happy.

701 Cherry St., Columbia, Missouri, thecandyfactoryonline.com

Must−Try

Confections at

The Candy Factory

22

feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 0

Chocolate-Covered Potato Chips

Caramel Apples

Katys

Available in September

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If you like your french fries

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tart Granny Smith apple.

day on the trail.

New Fall Flavors! Come try our updated seasonal offerings with new food, beer and cocktail additions!

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23

THE DISH / 3 ways / on trend / HEALTHY APPETITE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / SHOP HERE / MIDWEST MADE / SUGAR RUSH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

What’s Poppin’?

Written by rachel huffman / photography by matt seidel

The talk of the table, GoPo gourmet popcorn combines locally grown, farm-fresh kernels and real, high-quality ingredients. Owned by Brooke and Nicholas Bartlett, the modern-day mom-and-pop shop in Fulton, Missouri, sells six signature flavors, plus rotating featured flavors such as lemon meringue. We recommend the Slowburn Kettle made with chile powder, salt and barbecue sauce from Lutz’s BBQ – which has locations in Columbia and Jefferson City. gopogourmetpopcorn.com

Making popcorn for more than 15 years, Osage River Popcorn in Osage Beach, Missouri, has mastered its technique. Its gourmet popcorn is made fresh daily with first-rate ingredients, and it comes in a whopping 21 flavors. Order a bag of any flavor – from butterscotch, caramel-cashew and cherry-chocolate cheesecake to baconCheddar, Cajun and garlic-Parmesan – or build your own popcorn tin with up to three flavors at osageriverpopcorn.com.

Ozark Mountain Popcorn in Springfield, Missouri, has been popping the perfect snack for fans across the U.S. since 1966. Despite its 50-plus-year existence, however, some say the local business is hidden in plain sight. Luckily, you’re now in the know. The company began with a few staples such as buttered, white Cheddar and cinnamon, but its line of gourmet popcorn has since expanded to include more than 80 marvelous flavors and mixes – think black cherry, green apple, pumpkin spice, peanut butter cup and sour cream and chive. ozarkmountainpopcorn.com

Founded in November 2018, Kirkwood Pop Co. in Kirkwood, Missouri, offers more than a dozen flavors of gourmet popcorn. Anna Carr runs the business with family friend Richard Daniels, who also owns Amigos Cantina, and she loves generating new types of popcorn such as cookies and cream (a sweet and chocolatey snack with a hint of cookie) based on customer suggestions. If you’re looking for something else special, try Pink Vanilla, which Carr compares to Lucky Charms marshmallows. kirkwoodpopco.com

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feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 0

What is movie night without plenty of popcorn? A delicious gluten-free snack, popcorn is also highly adaptable – butter and salt are just the beginning. Try some of the fantastic flavors that these Missouri makers have to offer, from caramel-pecan to birthday cake and white Cheddar-jalapeño to chili cheese.

ONE ON ONE /

st. louis

with Freddie L. James, Jr. and Deborah James

ONE on

owners, Freddie Lee’s Gourmet Sauces

Written by Liz Miller photography by gregg goldman

On a hot summer day almost two decades ago, Freddie L. James, Jr. and his wife, Deborah, were hard at work making batches of sauce in their kitchen. At the time, the couple made the all-purpose sauce just for themselves, family and friends. Today, they cite that afternoon as the beginning of their business, Freddie Lee’s Gourmet Sauces, which is best-known for its Ghetto Sauce, a gluten-free, vegan-friendly sauce available in spicy and mild flavors. The company has been a labor of love for Freddie, a retired construction worker, and Deborah, who now operate their own co-packing company in downtown St. Louis. Freddie Lee’s Ghetto Sauce (labeled Freddie Lee’s American Gourmet Sauce in some stores) is now sold in 18 states and more than 1,200 retailers, including Schnucks, Dierbergs Markets and Hy-Vee.

How did you come up with the name Freddie Lee’s Ghetto Sauce? The kitchen was extremely hot, so we went out on the front porch to cool off. We saw a police chase, and I looked at my wife and I said, “Baby, one day, God’s going to bless us [with the ability] to get out of the ghetto.”

She looked at me and said, “Why don’t you name your sauce ghetto sauce?” We had a good laugh about it and we prayed on it. Some time passed, and one day I was coming home from work, going up the steps, and somebody blew their horn and said, “Hey man, are you still making that sauce?” And I said, “Yeah, I have some ghetto sauce inside.” I didn’t think about it, it just came out. –Freddie L. James, Jr. In addition to retail sales, you still vend at events around town. Are those a big source of revenue as well? Yes. October of last year, for example, was a really good month because we had the Best of Missouri [Market]. I want to say we did 20,000 to 30,000 units. The month before, we were in St. Charles for a home show and we sold like 54 cases – it was three days, and we sold out. –Deborah James How has business been impacted by the pandemic? Some smaller stores didn’t order right away; they backed off. But our online sales went up after that, which was a good thing. It didn’t balance everything out, but it didn’t take us to the poor house. It was a blessing because at first we were hardly getting any online sales, and then [the pandemic] came about, so we started promoting the online business, and voilà. –D.J. What is your favorite way to eat the sauce at home? I marinate my briskets in it. When I bake my chicken or pork, if I get lazy and don’t want to barbecue, I’ll put just a little water in the pan – just enough to kind of have it halfway on the meat – then I’ll put foil over it, put it in the oven and let it cook the grease out. Once the grease cooks out, I pour the grease out and then I put my sauce on it, put it back in the oven and let it caramelize. It’s just some amazing sauce. –F.J. Can you share any meaningful customer feedback you’ve received over the years? I had one person who was in Columbia, [Missouri], call me up at about eight o’clock at night and say, “I’m addicted to your sauce, man.” We’ve had a lot of compliments on our product. And I just thank God for blessing me [with the opportunity] to do what I love to do – that’s the key. I give God all the credit and the praise. My daddy told me a long time ago, when I was about 14 years of age, maybe younger, “You gotta love what you do. You put your heart into it.” –F.J. freddieleesgourmetsauces.com / o c to be r 2 02 0

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THE DISH / 3 ways / on trend / HEALTHY APPETITE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / SHOP HERE / MIDWEST MADE / SUGAR RUSH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

True to their name, these buns are sticky and sweet with cinnamon and brown sugar swirled into layers of pillowy yeast-raised dough. Made with Missouri pecans and VAIN vanilla extract, the gooey glaze on top is rich and fragrant. Don’t be surprised if the entire family gets behind this fall baking project.

Story, recipe and photography by Teresa Floyd, Food writer and recipe developer, now-forager.com

pair with: American Brown Ale The smooth and almost coffee-like body of Boone County Brown from Bur Oak Brewing Co. in Columbia, Missouri, provides both the context and contrast for these sweet sticky buns. The cinnamon and pecans gently carve into the dark malts’ nutty notes while the beer’s dry, mineral finish gives each bite of bun a fresh chance to envelop your taste buds with brown sugar and maple. –JC Sandt buroakbeer.com

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feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 0

PA I R IT!

yields 8 sticky buns Sticky Bun Dough Try VAIN vanilla extract in this ¾ cup whole milk recipe. Made in Leawood, Kansas, 2¼ tsp active dry yeast using premium vanilla beans 4½ cups all-purpose flour and top-shelf rum, the Original ½ cup cornstarch Baker’s Blend will add distinctive ¹⁄₃ cup sugar flavor to these sticky buns.

1¼ tsp kosher salt 2 tsp vanilla extract 3 large eggs, room temperature ¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature Brown Sugar Filling 1 cup packed light brown sugar 1 Tbsp ground cinnamon ¼ tsp kosher salt 1 Tbsp unsalted butter, melted Maple-Pecan Glaze 2 cups pecan halves ¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter 3 Tbsp pure maple syrup 1 cup packed light brown sugar ¼ tsp kosher salt ½ cup heavy cream 1 tsp vanilla extract / preparation – sticky bun dough / In a small heatproof bowl, heat milk in microwave until warm to the touch (not hot, approximately 110ºF), approximately 30 seconds. Sprinkle yeast over warm milk and gently stir to combine; let rest, 5 minutes, to activate yeast.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine flour, cornstarch, sugar and salt.

With the mixer on low speed, add milk-yeast mixture, vanilla and eggs; mix until dough has formed, 1 to 2 minutes. Increase speed to medium and add soft butter, 1 tablespoon at a time; mix until combined. Once all butter has been added, continue to mix, 8 minutes. The final dough should feel tacky but not sticky. If the dough feels too firm, add 1 to 2 tablespoons warm milk and mix until combined. Transfer dough to a large bowl; tightly cover bowl. Set in a warm spot to rise, 2 hours or until dough has doubled in size.

Meanwhile, line a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with parchment paper. Prepare brown sugar filling and maple-pecan glaze (recipes follow).

Once dough has doubled in size, pour half of the cooled glaze into prepared baking pan; sprinkle half of the cooled toasted pecans on top. Set aside.

Transfer dough to a lightly floured work surface.

Roll out into a 16-by-16-inch square. Using a pastry brush, spread melted butter from filling over the surface of the dough; evenly distribute brown sugar filling on top. Starting with the edge nearest you, begin rolling dough into a thick log; lightly pinch seams to seal in filling. Cut dough log into eight pieces (cut the whole log in half, then cut each half in half and so on). Transfer pieces, cut

For an adults-only version of this recipe, add a splash of bourbon to the glaze after it’s cooled.

side up, to prepared baking pan, creating two rows of four evenly spaced pieces. Cover pan and set buns in a warm spot to rise, 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 350ºF. Bake buns until deeply golden and filling is bubbling, 35 to 40 minutes.

Remove from oven and set on wire rack to cool, 10 minutes. Meanwhile, reheat remaining glaze until warm and fluid and then stir in remaining pecans. Remove from heat and set aside.

Carefully invert sticky buns onto a large baking sheet or cutting board. Pour reheated glaze over the warm buns. Serve warm or lightly reheated.

Store any leftover buns in an airtight container at room temperature, up to three days. / preparation – brown sugar filling / In a small bowl, combine sugar, cinnamon and salt.

Set melted butter aside. / preparation – maple-pecan glaze / Preheat oven to 350ºF. On a baking sheet, spread pecans out in a single layer. Toast in oven until lightly browned and fragrant, 10 minutes, stirring halfway through. Remove from oven and set on wire rack to cool.

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt butter and maple syrup. Whisk in sugar and salt; bring mixture to a simmer. Remove from heat and carefully whisk in cream (it will bubble up quickly, so add slowly, whisking constantly).

Place saucepan over medium heat again; bring mixture to a boil and cook until golden brown, approximately 3 minutes. Remove from heat.

Once glaze is no longer bubbling, whisk in vanilla extract. Set aside to cool until ready to use. / o c to be r 2 02 0

27

THE DISH / 3 ways / on trend / HEALTHY APPETITE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / SHOP HERE / MIDWEST MADE / SUGAR RUSH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

In this class, you’ll learn how to choose the right chicken for this recipe, plus how to spatchcock it and why. You’ll also learn what it takes to make a pan sauce with flavor and gloss.

Roast Chicken with Port-Soaked Figs As temperatures begin to cool down, our palates yearn for more substantial meals with rich flavors. This roast chicken is straightforward; paired with port-soaked figs and a port wine pan sauce, it will satisfy some of those seasonal cravings. Use a ruby port for optimum fruitiness and sweetness, or try a tawny port for greater complexity.

Written by Gabrielle DeMichele Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Get Hands-On Join Schnucks Cooking School director Gabrielle DeMichele on Zoom at 5pm on Thurs., Oct. 15 to learn how to make the dishes on this month’s menu. For more information on everything you’ll need for the virtual class – from cookware to ingredients – contact the cooking school directly.

nourish.schnucks.com/ web-ext/cooking-school

or call 314.909.1704

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feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 0

serves 4 to 6

2 tsp cumin

1 tsp coriander

1 tsp finely chopped fresh rosemary

1 tsp salt ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

2 Tbsp oil, divided 3 to 4 lbs chicken, spatchcocked zest and juice of 1 lemon 1½ cups port wine 12 dried figs

8 medium shallots, peeled

4 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed 1½ cups chicken stock ¼ lb high-quality prosciutto, cut into ribbons ½ cup fig preserves

1 Tbsp cold butter

6 fresh figs, halved / preparation / In a small bowl, combine cumin, coriander, rosemary, salt and pepper.

Rub 1 tablespoon oil all over chicken and then rub spice-herb blend all over; refrigerate, at least 1 hour or overnight. In another small bowl, add lemon zest, lemon juice and port wine; add dried figs, cover and allow to soak at room temperature, at least one hour.

Preheat oven to 375ºF. Coat the bottom of a large skillet with remaining oil. Remove figs from lemon-port mixture and reserve liquid. Arrange soaked figs, shallots and garlic in the middle of the skillet; place chicken on top. Pour stock into skillet and place in oven. Roast until chicken is golden, crisp and internal temperature has reached 160ºF, approximately 50 minutes.

Once chicken is done, transfer contents of skillet to a warm platter, leaving only a scant 2 tablespoons of fat in skillet. Place hot skillet over medium heat and add prosciutto; cook, 1 to 2 minutes. Add fig preserves; cook until melted

and then add reserved lemon-port mixture. Bring mixture to a gentle boil; stirring occasionally, cook until liquid has reduced by half and thickened. Whisk in butter, pieces at a time, waiting until one piece has melted before adding another. Check seasoning and adjust if necessary. Remove skillet from heat and carefully place fresh figs in sauce to warm. / to serve / Cut chicken into pieces and arrange on a clean platter with shallots and figs; drizzle a little sauce over everything. Pour remaining sauce in a serving dish and serve alongside roast chicken.

MAKE THE MEAL • Roast Chicken with Port-Soaked Figs • Perfect Polenta • Grilled Asparagus • Plum Tarte Tatin

CULINARY LIBRARY /

KANSAS CITY

with Cheryl Bisbee / owner, Boozy Botanicals t

A love of cocktails impelled Cheryl Bisbee, a longtime lawyer, to create her own line of all-natural syrups. At home, she used to try to recreate the complex concoctions that she enjoyed at her favorite Kansas City spots, but something always seemed to be missing. And so, Boozy Botanicals was born.

Looking to her backyard for inspiration, Bisbee began developing gourmet syrups using homegrown rosemary and mint for the first test batches. After exploring more combinations of fresh herbs, flowers, vegetables and spices, she chose to bottle seven flavors, including the original rosemarymint, ginger-hibiscus, cardamom-spice and classic rose. Besides making home bartending a breeze, Boozy Botanicals can enhance the flavor of marinades, salad dressings, smoothies, baked goods and ice cream, as well as zero-proof drinks such as sparkling water, lemonade and even tea. With no formal training, Bisbee has had to rely on intuition – and some educational reads – to build her business and succeed. Here, she shares two of those books – and one she can’t wait to start. –Jenny Vergara

The Drunken Botanist

The Essential Cocktail

Drinking Like Ladies

by Dale DeGroff (2008)

by Kirsten Amann and Misty Kalkofen (2018)

“I know I don’t have to tell you how important DeGroff is to the cocktail [world], and this book encapsulates why. He breaks down the elements of a great cocktail and explains why each is important. He uses lots of history and tells interesting stories and includes lots of recipes. This book really makes you want to start mixing drinks.”

“I haven’t read this yet, but I’m excited to get into it, as it highlights modern cocktails created by female bartenders and includes stories about women in the industry. I’m really happy this book exists; I don’t think there’s enough love given to women in the [beverage] industry. It’s still quite ‘a man’s world’ – from distilling to distributing to tending bar, the impact and importance of women in the industry is often overlooked.”

photography by zach bauman

by Amy Stewart (2013) “This book is the Bible for me. It was one of the first books I read when I was trying to figure out my product concept for Boozy Botanicals. It taught me just how important – [how] absolutely crucial – plants are to everything we imbibe.”

A FESTT THAT CAN’T BE CANCELED. GOOSE ISLAND OKTOBERFEST AVAILABLE NOW. ©2020 GOOSE ISLAND BEER CO., CHICAGO, IL

ENJOY RESPONSIBLY

/ o c to be r 2 02 0

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THE DISH / 3 ways / on trend / HEALTHY APPETITE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / SHOP HERE / MIDWEST MADE / SUGAR RUSH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Be honest: How often do you reach past bins of unfamiliar fungi to the more mainstream varieties?

Button, cremini and portabella mushrooms are mild in flavor and easy to cook, with no surprises lurking around the corner – but what fun is that? cu

, Don t Fear the Fungus

te as

a

bu ton t

Story and recipe by Shannon Weber, Writer and Recipe Developer, aperiodictableblog.com Photography by jennifer silverberg Illustrations by meg wagler

Next time you go grocery shopping, take a chance on a few mushroom varieties that are new to you. You’ll likely find some you love, and they’ll introduce those elusive restaurant flavors and textures that you’ve been missing to your home kitchen. Here’s what you’ll find where.

Mushrooms hit markets in the form that’s best for their stability, meaning sometimes they have stems or are even connected at the base in “pods.” Always remove the thick base of mushroom pods or stems, and research whether or not the mushrooms you’re prepping need their entire stem removed as well.

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International Markets Long, thin and white with tiny caps, enoki mushrooms boast a bright fruity-floral flavor and a little bite at the end. Using them in soups and stir-fries is inevitable, but roast them in the oven and they become surprisingly meaty.

Beech mushrooms look like enoki’s older siblings. Both the white and brown varieties

Squeaky Clean

are nutty and meaty, although the latter has a slightly deeper flavor. Both remain firm even after cooking, and their buttery texture enhances simple sautés, soups and stir-fries.

Nearly identical to beech mushrooms in both size and shape, seafood mushrooms are decadent and decidedly not meaty. Cooking brings out flavors reminiscent of scallops and clams, so don’t hesitate to include them in soups, salads and vegan crab cakes.

King oyster mushrooms are huge – easily 7 to 8 inches long with thick stems. They have a dense yet silky texture and smell, oddly, like freshly baked bread when cooked.

Less meaty than other varieties, with floral undertones, their size allows them to shine as “scallops,” or cut them into thinner discs to get nicely browned edges.

The spiciest of the bunch, with hints of clove and cinnamon, hen-of-the-woods or maitake mushrooms are wonderfully woodsy. Their deep flavor and meaty texture work well in pastas and tacos and alongside grilled meats.

Well-Stocked Regular Markets They might sound exotic, but oyster mushrooms are fairly common. A good all-around mushroom, their meaty texture is great for grilling and sautéing, and their flavor holds its own in heavier sauces of cream and cheese.

Known for their classic forest-mushroom shape, shiitake mushrooms have a deep, earthy flavor and pleasantly chewy texture. Universally loved for their flavor and versatility, they can easily fly solo, plus they’re one of the best meat substitutes out there.

On average, mushrooms are 90 percent water – a pretty high percentage for a solid, non-juicy object.

Their water content makes them particularly susceptible to bloating if submerged in water for any length of time, destroying the texture and flavor of your favorite varieties. Brushing, then, should be the obvious way to clean mushrooms, but it’s not that simple: Brushing is tedious, which means we’re more likely to rush through it and miss dirt that could ruin a dish. What’s a mushroom-lover to do?

Brushing ⁄ Wiping To avoid any chance of your mushrooms bloating or breaking down, clean them with a soft brush or towel. This approach will remove dirt and debris hiding in gills and pockets, and it’s

An eye-catching option, chanterelle mushrooms are sunset peach in color with

especially useful if you need to clean them well in advance of

showy ruffled caps. Simultaneously peppery and fruity, they can be hard to find, as they’re

cooking. But you cannot cut corners here.

only available fresh in fall and winter. Pair them with grains (risotto, farro, polenta), pastas, eggs or toast – nothing that will outshine their delicate flavor.

Straight out of a storybook, porcini mushrooms have a picturesque umbrella-like

Washing If you’re not working with mushrooms such as morels that need

shape and deep, nutty flavor, which makes them ideal for mixed-mushroom sauces and

special attention and you plan to clean them right before cooking,

sautés. They’re also gorgeous atop grains and pastas.

washing might work. Mushrooms are porous, but since they’re already full of water, a quick dip won’t hurt them. This approach

coveted caps

requires quick work to be successful – no soaking allowed.

Large, white and round with distinguishing long, shaggy spines, lion’s manem

Method A. Fill sink with cold water. In batches,

mushrooms are aptly named. Sought-after for their distinct crab-like flavor and plethora of

dunk and swish mushrooms vigorously for a few

mood-boosting health benefits, they’re lovely roasted, or you can use them raw in salads.

seconds to rinse off dirt and debris. Transfer to clean, absorbent towel, pat dry and cook immediately.

Elusive and expensive, morel mushrooms have a superior flavor because they are grown in the wild, where – come spring – they peek out of loamy soil and make foragers

Method B. Place mushrooms in a large colander.

very happy. Their brain-like caps possess a unique, delicate flavor, making them a chef

Using the spray function on your kitchen faucet

favorite if there ever was one. A simple sauté is all they need.

(and working in batches as needed), quickly spray mushrooms as you shake them. Transfer to clean, absorbent towel, pat dry and cook immediately. / o c to be r 2 02 0

31

THE DISH / 3 ways / on trend / HEALTHY APPETITE / MYSTERY SHOPPER / SHOP HERE / MIDWEST MADE / SUGAR RUSH / QUICK FIX / CRASH COURSE

Delightful, Even Dried Like dried fruit, dried mushrooms give you access to more specialty varieties that are extremely difficult to experience fresh in the Midwest due to growing region, seasonality and shelf life. Dried mushrooms last up to a year in the pantry, so we don’t have to experience the same pain as we do watching fresh mushrooms go to slime in our refrigerator. And they provide instant flavor to myriad dishes – you just have to know how to use them.

Look for cremini, shiitake, porcini, morel, black trumpet or a mix; skip chanterelles, which can become overly bland when dried.

To ensure cleanliness, rinse them in cold water, shake them off and let them dry on a towel. Then it’s time to choose your own adventure.

Rehydrated mushrooms Soak your selection of dried mushrooms in hot – not boiling – water until tender and plump, at least 20 minutes. Afterward, you can use them as you would fresh mushrooms, in any dish you desire.

Making potstickers at home is easier than it looks. Whip up a batch and steam them right away or freeze them for later. With mushrooms subbed in for meat, these potstickers make a substantial vegan side, and you can substitute any of the aforementioned mushrooms to alter the flavor – just keep the measurements for fresh and dried the same.

Mushroom Potstickers Yields 25 to 30 potstickers

Stock

Powder Add dried mushrooms to a food processor; pulse to blend into a fine powder.

Strain out larger chunks and add to food processor again; pulse until finely ground.

The concentrated flavor of mushroom powder is stunning in soup, stew, sauce and gravy.

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Throw meaty dried mushrooms such as shiitakes in water with onion, garlic, carrot, herbs and spices to make a basic vegetable stock. Simmer, approximately 1 hour, and then strain out solids.

Use stock for soup, stew, ragout, risotto or sauce.

½

½

8

2

2 2 to 3

½

¹⁄₃

¼

4

2

1½

25 to 30

oz dried oyster mushrooms, rinsed oz dried shiitake mushrooms, rinsed oz fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed Tbsp olive oil, divided sea salt, to taste cloves garlic, peeled and smashed tsp freshly grated ginger medium napa cabbage, leaves roughly chopped (approximately 2 to 2½ cups) cup grated carrot cup fresh cilantro leaves small scallions, trimmed on both ends and roughly chopped Tbsp sesame oil Tbsp soy sauce or coconut aminos freshly ground black pepper, to taste wrappers

/ preparation / In a medium saucepan, bring 2 cups water to a boil; remove from heat. Add dried mushrooms and soak until softened, 30 to 40 minutes. Remove from water and pat dry.

Wipe or quickly rinse fresh mushrooms; place in food processor and pulse, 10 times, to break into small pieces.

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat. Add fresh mushrooms and season with salt; cook until mushrooms begin to

release water, approximately 10 minutes. Meanwhile, add rehydrated mushrooms to food processor; pulse, 10 times, to break down. Once fresh mushrooms have released water, add rehydrated mushrooms to pan; cook, 3 to 4 minutes. Meanwhile, add garlic, ginger, cabbage, carrot, cilantro and scallions to food processor; pulse to break down and combine. Add vegetable-herb mixture to pan; cook until softened, approximately 5 minutes.

Remove from heat and stir in sesame oil and soy sauce; season with salt and pepper to taste.

Set wrappers on work surface and cover with a kitchen towel. Set a small bowl of cold water to the side.

Remove one wrapper at a time from under towel; add 1 tablespoon filling to center. Dip your fingers in water and wet perimeter of wrapper; fold wrapper in half over filling and pinch firmly to seal, pleating down from the top as you go. Set under towel and repeat process with remaining wrappers.

Heat remaining olive oil in a 10-inch skillet over mediumhigh heat. Working in batches, carefully add potstickers, 1 inch apart, pressing down to flatten bottom against pan; cook until browned, approximately 3 minutes. Add ¹⁄₃ cup water to pan and cover; steam until potstickers are heated through, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to plate, discard water and repeat process with remaining potstickers. Serve with favorite dipping sauce.

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33

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feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 0

SCHLAFLY BEER

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PROMOTION

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sixmilebridgebeer.square.site 11841 Dorsett Road, Maryland Heights, Missouri / o c to be r 2 02 0

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A fury for flavor.

Reservations: harrahskc.com 36

feastmagazine.com / oc tober 2 0 2 0

written by heather riske / photography by jennifer silverberg At Bijoux Handcrafted Chocolates in Des Peres, Missouri, Meggie Mobley creates hand-painted bonbons that are as beautiful as they are delicious. / o c to be r 2 02 0

37

After graduation, Mobley returned home

hen Meggie Mobley was a

to St. Louis and began working full-time at

sophomore in college, she had a

the acclaimed Rick Jordan Chocolatier. Both

realization: She hated calculus.

Veruca and Rick Jordan gave her foundational knowledge for crafting chocolate, but Mobley

This was something of a problem since it’s

also learned much of her technique by

integral to computer science, which she was

watching videos on YouTube, and eventually

majoring in at the University of Missouri. As

she was ready to launch her own chocolate

Mobley began making plans to switch her

venture. She decided to name her company

major, her mind kept going back to childhood

Bijoux Handcrafted Chocolates after the

memories of piping flowers and making icing

French word for “jewels,” as customers

borders with her aunt, who worked as a cake

frequently remarked that her ornate

decorator for Schnucks grocery stores in

bonbons resembled jewels or gemstones.

St. Louis. “I was trying to figure out what the heck I was going to do,” says Mobley. “That’s

Bijoux was born out of Mobley’s “chocolate

kind of when I was like, let me just remember

room” – a 200-square-foot space in the

things I really liked as a kid. What did I really

finished basement of her home in Des Peres,

enjoy doing in my free time? And that’s when I

Missouri – under the Missouri Cottage Food

remembered when my aunt would come over and show me how to decorate cakes.”

Law, which allows for the production and sale

Soon after, Mobley landed her first baking

and jams, in a home setting. Here, Mobley

of certain foods, including breads, cookies began crafting hand-painted bonbons in

job at Harold’s Doughnuts in downtown

creative, often seasonal flavors such as

Columbia, Missouri, while still in college but

salted caramel, passionfruit and hazelnut.

planning to follow in her aunt’s footsteps as

After building a following for her intricate

a cake decorator. A self-described “Midwest

chocolates online and at the Lake St. Louis

homebody,” Mobley knew she didn’t want to go

Farmers and Artists Market, she was able to

far for culinary school, so she enrolled at The

expand the business into a brick-and-mortar

French Pastry School in Chicago. There, she

shop, which opened just up the street from

realized just how big the world of pastry is.

her home this past July.

Over the course of approximately five months,

Tucked next to an alterations shop in a squat,

Mobley rotated between different modules across the spectrum of baking and pastry, spending one to two immersive weeks at a time learning the ins and outs of different crafts such as entremets, cake decorating and, finally, chocolate.

The bonbons are nothing short of stunning, but Mobley is quick to downplay the artistry of her work.

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red brick building on Manchester Road, Bijoux Although chocolate was the final module in Mobley’s program, she

is a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it affair. The sleek, 750-square-foot

had started staging with Veruca Chocolates – a Chicago chocolate

shop is decidedly minimalist, with a white marble counter and

company that specializes in luxury milk and dark chocolate

a white tile floor. Your eye is quickly drawn to the five brightly

bonbons – at the beginning of the semester. Chocolatiers Heather

colored canvas paintings, each featuring a different pattern

Johnston and Meghan Ryan quickly took her under their wings and

designed by Mobley, hanging on one wall – a playful nod to the

walked her through the technical side of making chocolate; she

artistic nature of the chocolates sitting in her pastry case.

was instantly hooked. “By the time I got into [chocolate] at school, I had had five months of these two very talented chocolatiers

The bonbons are nothing short of stunning, but Mobley is

being really hands-on,” says Mobley. “That was really what did

quick to downplay the artistry of her work – it’s “pretty simple,”

it – being at Veruca and seeing all the possibilities. They were

she says. Much of her craft centers around making sure the

definitely instrumental in setting me on this path.”

chocolate is at the right temperature for fat crystallization –

that’s what gives chocolate its signature snap, explains Mobley.

bonbons, she uses her fingers to flick a little bit of colored

“If you’ve ever eaten a Snickers, how it snaps when you take a

cocoa butter across the top of the mold.

bite – that means it’s been properly tempered. The snap is how you know it’s where it should be. For it to be shiny, it needs to

After creating the design, Mobley fills the mold with a melted

have that snap.”

66 percent dark chocolate from the Caribbean that she says has a very mild flavor, featuring notes of roasted nut and red

Chocolate is an unforgiving medium. As Mobley says, if there’s

fruit. The dark chocolate is placed in a vat inside a 15-kilogram

anything wrong, you won’t know until it’s way too late to fix it.

machine – one of the smallest on the market. Within the vat,

So, before anything else, she cleans her chocolate molds with

the chocolate is kept at 55°C and is stirred constantly as it

isopropyl alcohol to remove any impurities. Chocolate will

slowly pours through a grate in the bottom. The chocolate is

reflect whatever surface it’s poured into, so if there’s even the

then drawn up through a system of tubes to the top of the

smallest particle on the mold, it will show up in the finished

machine, where it is stored at 31°C to ensure it pours easily

product. The average customer might not notice, but you can

into the molds.

bet that Mobley will.

With the press of a button, a steady stream of chocolate pours Then, essentially, the process works backwards. Mobley

out of the machine and into the mold; Mobley then uses a wide

starts by painting the molds, most of which are either round or

bench scraper to spread the chocolate across the mold, making

Mobley primarily works with dark chocolate, but she says some

shaped like a geometric dome, with different colors of cocoa

sure it reaches every nook and cranny. Any excess chocolate

flavor combinations work better with white chocolate – in her

butter – the popular salted caramel, for instance, features a

is scraped back into the machine so that the bonbons retain

lemon bonbon, for instance, the brightness of the lemon shines

striking azure shell. By itself, the cocoa butter is opaque in

their perfect, pristine shape. Next, the mold sits on a vibrating

against the sweetness of the white chocolate. Key lime, she says

color with a hard texture, similar to candle wax. It’s kept in a

tray table on top of the chocolate machine for 10 to 20 seconds

with an easy shrug, would just taste weird with dark chocolate.

warmer set at 42°C, which keeps the cocoa butter thin and fluid

to release any air bubbles. Mobley then flips the tray upside

enough to function as, well, paint.

down on a nearby table and lets the chocolates solidify

Although the hand-painted bonbons remain the crown jewel of

for a few minutes before popping them in the refrigerator

the shop, the expanded production space has allowed Mobley

It’s not an exaggeration to call Bijoux bonbons art. Each flavor

for another five to 10 minutes. After the chocolates have

to increase her lineup of treats to include a few chocolate

features a different design, ranging from the yellow and white

cooled completely, Mobley fills the shells and leaves them to

bars and several varieties of toffee such as salted nutty

speckled lemon bonbon to the brown butter-vanilla bonbon

crystallize at room temperature overnight. Finally, she coats

toffee, salted honey toffee and honeycomb sponge toffee.

striped with green, orange and yellow plaid to the blood orange

the chocolates with a bottom layer.

“HEATH Bars were my favorite growing up, so it’s an homage to that,” she says, adding that toffee is an easy base that can be

bonbon featuring red-to-orange ombré.

It’s a time-intensive process – it takes approximately two days

experimented with in a lot of different ways.

To achieve the plaid pattern, Mobley uses regular paintbrushes

to make a tray of bonbons from start to finish – and one that

to make several different brushstrokes. She’ll brush on one

requires a lot of multitasking. While Mobley waits for one tray

The toffee lining the shelves at Bijoux is, certainly, more

layer, let it dry for a minute or so in the mold and then brush

of bonbons to set in their shells, for instance, she might start

sophisticated than a HEATH Bar, and Mobley’s mastery of the

on the next layer with another color of cocoa butter, and so

painting the patterns for another batch or filling another tray

famously finicky process of tempering chocolate produces

on. Just like real paint, you can see that it’s dry when the cocoa

with chocolate. “You have to figure out how to work in a way

treats well beyond the scope of a Snickers. But the ease

butter changes from wet and shiny to a flat sheen. Similarly,

where you’re continuously doing something,” she says.

with which she describes her craft underscores a key tenet of Bijoux: Although Mobley takes chocolate seriously, her

ombré chocolates are made by spraying the mold, letting it dry for a minute and then rotating the mold and spraying it again

Some bonbons feature literal layers of flavor, which Mobley

jewel-like confections are meant to be fun – just like those

with a different color of cocoa butter.

carefully pipes in one at a time. The cherry-almond bonbon,

days spent piping frosting flowers with her aunt. And while

for example, combines cherry jam, dark chocolate ganache

she might downplay the artistry of her work, her customers

For the speckled chocolates, including the lemon, Mobley uses

and an extra decadent layer of almond butter ganache,

certainly won’t.

a paint sprayer – a technique she picked up while working at

while the seasonal Bellini bonbon, a popular summer flavor,

Rick Jordan Chocolatier. For a splash of color, such as the pink

features peach jam and a ganache made with white chocolate,

13014 Manchester Road, Des Peres, Missouri,

and green strands across the blue shell of the salted caramel

Champagne and Grand Marnier.

bijouxchocolates.com

/ o c to be r 2 02 0

39

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Growing up in Ciudad Obregón in Sonora, Mexico, Marissa Gencarelli shopped at local tortillerias as part of her family’s regular routine. At the open-air stands and shops, she watched skilled makers press, roll, toss and griddle fresh tortillas, as scents of harvest and history swirled around her. While she waited in line, the owners would hand out tacos de nada for customers to snack on. It’s memories like these that have long influenced Marissa, although she never imagined herself directly involved in the tortilla business.

Marissa attended her mother’s alma mater, the University of Arizona, where she majored in international liberal studies (global political economy) and Italian literature, with the ultimate goal of attending law school like so many in her family before her. Studying abroad in Italy, she met her future husband, Mark, and after graduating, she was recruited

by Cerner Corporation in Kansas City, Mark’s hometown.

As life continued, the Gencarellis often traveled to Mexico, visiting Marissa’s hometown as well as other cities such as

● Marissa and Mark Gencarelli of Yoli Tortilleria wanted great corn and Sonoran-style flour tortillas in Kansas City – so they started making their own.

Puebla and Mexico City. Upon returning to Kansas City, Marissa says they struggled to adjust to the cuisine. “The tortilla situation was just heartbreaking,” she says. Thick, gummy, preservativeladen flour tortillas alongside crumbly corn tortillas crowded the shelves of their local grocery store, and Marissa longed for those of her childhood.

Finally, out of sheer necessity, the couple

written by april fleming photography by zach bauman

began making their own tortillas – a pursuit that bordered on obsession, according to Marissa. / o c to be r 2 02 0

41

They started with corn, sampling a number of organic, non-GMO varieties that more closely resembled the corn available in Mexico as opposed to the yellow corn common in the U.S. As they tasted different strains, they learned about nixtamalization, the traditional process of cooking and soaking maize in an alkaline solution – usually limewater or ash lye – to remove impurities before it’s rinsed and ground into masa for tortillas. They bought several stone grinders for the final step, but none of them produced the right texture.

Unimpressed by small, home kitchen grinders, the Gencarellis toyed with the idea of purchasing a commercial grinder like those used by Mexican purveyors. “We thought, ‘What if we just go ahead and take this a little bit more seriously and maybe make a side thing out of it?’” says Marissa. So in early 2017, the husband-and-wife team went to Los Angeles to visit several manufacturers. From Campbell Machine – which produces custom commercial equipment for tortilla-makers – they bought everything they would need to produce tortillas commercially: cooking tanks, a grinder and ovens. Within weeks of their first purchase, the Gencarellis found themselves at the helm of a new enterprise, Yoli Tortilleria. They signed a lease for commercial space in Kansas City’s East Bottoms, and Mark left his full-time job to focus on tortilla production.

Today, Yoli Tortilleria has a stand at the Overland Park Farmers’ Market, where Marissa and Mark sell fresh yellow, white, red and blue corn tortillas, along with weekly specials and seasonal varieties. To recreate some of Marissa’s experiences at the tortillerias in Sonora, they also set up a griddle in their stall to offer customers hot-off-the-press samples of their products – although this practice has been put on hold due to COVID-19 safety protocols.

While the tortillas remain a fixture of the farmers’ market, Yoli Tortilleria has also expanded to dozens of local grocery stores, and its tortillas can be found in dishes at restaurants across the city, including Café Sebastienne, Chicken N Pickle, Fénix (located inside Strang Hall), The Savoy at 21c and Tribe Street Kitchen.

Patrick Ryan, chef-owner of Port Fonda, a Mexican restaurant in Westport, was an early advocate of Yoli products. For him, the choice to switch to its tortillas was an easy one.

“Before Yoli opened, most tortillas produced in Kansas City that were available for restaurants to purchase were made with Maseca, [instant corn masa flour],” explains Ryan. “That’s fine in some instances, but it’s a mass-produced product with additives and preservatives – think Wonder Bread versus something from a bakery. As soon as Yoli came around and started doing it the right way by nixtamalizing local corn, it was a done deal. We switched [to its products] right away.” At Port Fonda, Ryan uses Yoli tortillas in chilaquiles, enchiladas and more; he also makes tortilla chips with them.

This summer, Yoli debuted its first storefront in Kansas City’s stylish Westside neighborhood, which is also home to a large Hispanic population. The decision to open a brick-and-mortar location represents a big step forward for the company. It gives the Gencarellis the opportunity to serve their customers in person and expand their offerings.

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● port fonda

tortilla chips and enchiladas

“Our mission is to bring people together through experiences and the joy of food,” says Marissa. “We greatly enjoy sharing our passion for the richness and diversity

RYE not Try Something local?

of Mexican cuisine with others.”

At the storefront, in addition to selling its corn tortillas, Yoli crafts Sonoran-style flour tortillas, which are quickly becoming popular outside of Mexico due to their rich flavor and desirable texture.

Sonoran-style flour tortillas exist in an entirely different category than commercial flour tortillas. Traditionally, they’re made with high-quality pork leaf lard, water, flour and salt – no additives or preservatives in sight. And they’re as thin as rice paper. When laid on a hot griddle or pan, however, they puff up and lightly blister, rendering their exterior slightly crispy while maintaining a good chew and, of course, remarkable flavor.

To achieve the perfect flavor and texture, the Gencarellis met with Marissa’s childhood friends who owned tortillerias in Ciudad Obregón to learn firsthand about the craft. They immediately realized just how important the individual ingredients are, and so, they tested approximately 30 types of flour before settling on organic, non-GMO white and whole-wheat flours grown and milled in the Midwest, and they decided to source the leaf lard from Paradise Locker Meats in Trimble, Missouri. “[Paradise Locker’s leaf lard] has almost no scent, and there’s absolutely no residue in it,” explains Marissa. “It just melts in your mouth, like good, high-quality butter.”

visit us at www.switchgrassspirits.com Follow us @switchgrassspirits

At the new tortilleria, customers can observe the tortilla-making process. First, the flour, lard, water and salt are combined to form a dough, which is divided into pieces the size of golf balls. Next, the dough pieces are pressed flat by a commercial press and then transferred to a flattop grill to cook slightly before being dried and stacked for packing. The space is warm and inviting, but beware: Watching the process is bound to make you hungry.

NEW! On top of that, Yoli’s new line of salsas and escabeches are also extremely enticing. Available at the Westside location, they feature fresh, seasonal and both locally grown and native-to-Mexico ingredients. “We are [kind of] rule breakers,” says Marissa. “Instead of trying to copy a Mexican dish and getting exact ingredients that might not be in season, we opt for tweaking ingredients

110 CALORIES

110% LOVE

[depending on] what is in season [and] using traditional methodologies and our own creativity. Ultimately, we want to [promote] the soul of Mexican cuisine, which is work with what is around you and share with your community.”

The reception of Yoli’s storefront has been overwhelmingly positive, with customers streaming in to pick up tortillas and salsa for every occasion. Even if you don’t live in the area, you can purchase Yoli corn and Sonoran-style flour tortillas online. The tortillas have endless applications: Wrap them around salmon and smother them in mole for dinner or pair them with avocado and soft-boiled eggs for breakfast. Any way you want to enjoy them, Marissa and Mark are just happy to be able to bring traditional Mexican flavors to the table.

1668 Jefferson St., #100, Kansas City, Missouri, eatyoli.com / o c to be r 2 02 0

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SPECIAL SECTION SPECIAL SECTION

THREE FOODS THREE SIGNATURE SIGNATURE FOODS OF OF THE THE OZARKS OZARKS

The United States is home to copious region-specific food gastronomies – a blend of the natural ingredients readily available and the influences of the people who come The United States is home to copious region-specific food gastronomies – a blend of the natural ingredients readily available and the influences of the people who come to cultivate them. These hybrid food inspirations have led to innovation and unique dishes across the continent. But while Cajun, soul food and other regional cooking to cultivate them. These hybrid food inspirations have led to innovation and unique dishes across the continent. But while Cajun, soul food and other regional cooking styles have become ubiquitous, the foods of the Ozarks remain less notable or well-known, even to the people who live there. Three quintessential ingredients found styles have become ubiquitous, the foods of the Ozarks remain less notable or well-known, even to the people who live there. Three quintessential ingredients found naturally in the area – pawpaw, walnuts and venison (deer meat) – have had an outstanding influence on Ozarks survival and the enduring food culture. naturally in the area – pawpaw, walnuts and venison (deer meat) – have had an outstanding influence on Ozarks survival and the enduring food culture.

PAWPAW PAWPAW

There is no limit of of nicknames ofof the largest banana,”” There is no limit nicknames the largestfruit fruitnative nativeto toNorth NorthAmerica America –– “Missouri’s “Missouri’s banana, “American custard apple” oror aptly “America’s ” ”Considered banana and and “American custard apple” aptly “America’sforgotten forgottenfruit. fruit.

Consideredas as sweet sweet as as banana as fragrant as as papaya, these large native pillar as fragrant papaya, these large nativefruits fruitsare areabundant abundantthroughout throughoutthe the Ozarks.

Ozarks. Once aa pillar to survival, they now remain relatively unknown. of the the to survival, they now remain relatively unknown.The Thefruit fruiteven evenplayed playedaapart part in in the founding founding of United States.

(Yes, really.)

When Lewis trip, they they United States.

(Yes, really.)

When Lewisand andClark Clarkran ranout outof offood foodon onthe thelast last days days of their trip, survived pawpaw, found growing thelast laststretch stretchofofthe theMissouri MissouriRiver.

River. survived on on pawpaw, found growing ononthe

BLACKWALNUTS WALNUTS BLACK

Of the many wild, native edibles that canbebefound foundininMissouri, Missouri,perhaps perhapsnone none is is more bountiful bountiful than Of the many wild, native edibles that can than Missouri black walnut.

Black walnutsare arefound foundthroughout throughoutthe thestate stateand and in in October, October, the thethe Missouri black walnut.

Black walnuts the trees trees litter forest floors with their fruits.

GenerationsofofMissouri Missourifamilies familieshave have enjoyed enjoyed foraging litter thethe forest floors with their fruits.

Generations foraging the the nuts, and Missouri is the top producer of black walnuts in the country.

But you don’t have nuts, and Missouri is the top producer of black walnuts in the country. But you don’t have to to throw throwon on a pair of hiking boots to enjoy them.

Hammons Black Walnuts, hand-harvested by locals, are available a pair of hiking boots to enjoy them. Hammons Black Walnuts, hand-harvested by locals, are available in stores online. in stores andand online.

VENISON VENISON

Deer hunting has long been a tradition and was once a means of survival in the Ozarks. In the early Deer hunting has long been a tradition and was once a means of survival in the Ozarks. In the early 20th century, deer populations shrank considerably before restrictions were put in place. Now 20th century, deer populations shrank considerably before restrictions were put in place. Now hunters and the Missouri Department of Conservation work together to maintain populations and hunters and the Missouri Department of Conservation work together to maintain populations and practice a long-honored tradition. A program called “Share the Harvest” helped donate over 350,000 practice a long-honored tradition. A program called “Share the Harvest” helped donate over 350,000 pounds of venison last year to food banks and pantries. Venison can be tough and lean but is tender pounds of venison last year to food banks and pantries. Venison can be tough and lean but is tender and succulent when properly prepared. and succulent when properly prepared.

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SPECIAL SECTION

WHAT IS OZARKS CUISINE? ONE CHEF SEEKS THE ANSWER TO THE REGION’S RICH FOOD HERITAGE

BY AUBREY BYRON

What is Ozarks cuisine? That’s the question at the core of the concept behind Bulrush, a fine-dining restaurant in St. Louis “rooted” in its Ozarks heritage. But the team does more than create beautiful dishes out of local ingredients; they have each become amateur food historians in their own right – tasked with discovering the defining culinary culture of the Ozarks.

When Rob Connoley returned to the region after a successful run and James Beard nomination at his first restaurant, Curious Kumquat, he wanted to reconnect with his family’s roots. But when looking at the foods his grandmother and great-grandmother used to prepare, he found recipes that weren’t interesting or particularly unique to their Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, heritage. And so, he began to dig deeper.

That’s what inspired Connoley to start visiting rare books sections of regional libraries, talking to archivists and librarians – to find and pore over letters and journal entries from the 19th century – all in search of the food people of the Ozarks once depended on.

“

colonization. And preservation techniques, such as dipping muslin in beeswax to ferment foods like sauerkraut, may have originated in the region.

Meanwhile, some traditions remain popularly practiced to this day, such as fish gigging – nighttime spearfishing rather than catching a fish on a line. This practice once borne out of necessity has shifted into a challenging sport for local and visiting fishers.

No Now... food is celebration and food is entertainment.

Back then, food was survival. al.

What he found was a critical moment in history when the Osage natives first began to interact with European immigrants, many of whom brought enslaved people with them. These three important cultural influences blended in reaction to the native flora and fauna available to create the original Ozarks cuisine.

Once quintessential foods have become half-forgotten to history, such as cornpone, a dish that eventually evolved into cornbread, and poke salut (as it was then written), a dish made from cooking the leaves of pokeweed, a former survival food now considered poisonous. Practices such as creating meal and bread from acorns, a staple of Osage survival, did not survive European

”

This exemplifies one of the main differences between the food Connoley studies and the food he serves. “Now we have foodies, and food is celebration and food is entertainment. Back then, food was survival,” he says.

On the rare occasion his team does dig up a recipe from a 100-year-old letter or journal, they are delighted. They tend to be simple, such as three dry ingredients and three wet ingredients, clearly passed down from oral tradition, Connoley notes. And they’re always for large quantities – recipes for 20 to 30 pounds of fruit cake, because the goal was to survive the winter.

While Connoley isn’t serving up his grandmother’s recipes at Bulrush, he is using local ingredients, historic traditions and more importantly, something that reminds people of home. / o c to be r 2 02 0

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Each of these five recipes features one Missouri¯made jam, giving you the perfect excuse to sweeten more than your morning toast.

Story and recipes by amanda elliott, chef-owner, Beet Box in Columbia, missouri photography by sean locke

Dating back to the first century, jam has a well-preserved history. In its simplest form, it is fruit cooked with sugar – or more specifically, honey – and then cooled before being stored. Today, makers across Missouri put their own spin on the process, adding surprising yet appetizing flavors to their handcrafted jams. Here, we explore fun and creative ways to use some of our favorites in spicy, sweet and savory recipes.

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Located in La Plata, Missouri, Jam Trak creates all-natural, small-batch jam by hand, cooking the fruit in open kettles and carefully managing the process to ensure the best possible outcome. Of its 12 varieties, the jalapeño jam boasts a special spicy-sweet flavor combination that shouldn’t be overlooked when mixing Margaritas. myjamtrak.com

b

er ry

Besides raising animals for meat free from antibiotics, artificial growth hormones and GMOs, Bechard Family Farm in Conway, Missouri, makes stellar jam. Owners Armand and Teddi Bechard handcraft all 10 flavors – from blackberry to raspberry-rhubarb to strawberry – and sell them under their Ozark Jam Kitchen label. I particularly like the gooseberry jam, which highlights the tart vivaciousness of the fruit and works wonderfully in these berry pop tarts. bechardfarm.com / o c to be r 2 02 0

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Owned and operated by Stacey Hawkins and Ann Kelly, Spread began with an abundance of backyard tomatoes; now, the St. Louis-based company churns out some of the best tomato jam in the country. It’s the star of this recipe, as the complex layers of sweet heat – derived from a combination of fresh tomatoes, sugar, lime juice, ginger, cloves, cinnamon, red pepper flakes and salt – really shine in the simple marinade.

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The addition of beer, wine, spirits, herbs and spices gives Larder & Cupboard jams – available at St. Louis-area farmers’ markets and specialty retailers as well as online – their unique flavor profiles. This open-faced grilled cheese gets its edge from the apricot-lemon-thyme jam, which won a 2018 Good Food Award in the preserves category. larderandcupboard.square.site / o c to be r 2 02 0

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Berry Pop Tarts Dough (adapted from King Arthur Flour recipe) 1½ cups all-purpose flour ½ cup bread flour 1 Tbsp sugar 1 tsp salt 1 cup (2 sticks) butter 2 eggs, divided 2 Tbsp sour cream

Icing 2 cups powdered sugar ¼ cup water

in Washington, Missouri, is best known for its pepper jellies, but it also produces fantastic jams in interesting flavors, including peppered strawberrybalsamic. Its balanced flavor of sweet strawberries and tangy balsamic vinegar lends itself well to these baked beans – which I can almost guarantee will be the hit of your next fall barbecue. pappysgourmet.com

/ preparation – dough / In a bowl, combine flours, sugar and salt; grate in butter. Using your hands (or a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment), mix until pea-sized pieces of butter form in flour. In a separate bowl, whisk together 1 egg and sour cream; add to flour mixture and mix until dough comes together. Evenly divide dough into two pieces; wrap each piece in plastic wrap and chill, 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, make filling and icing (recipes follow).

Preheat oven to 375°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Remove plastic wrap from one piece of dough and place on floured work surface. Roll out dough until approximately ¹⁄₈ inch thick; cut out eight 3-by-5-inch rectangles and set aside.

Repeat process with second piece of dough.

Whisk remaining egg with a little water to make an egg wash.

Lay 8 dough rectangles on clean work surface; brush with egg wash and then add a heaping tablespoon of filling. Top with remaining dough rectangles; seal edges with fork. Carefully transfer pop tarts to prepared baking sheet; bake, 15 minutes, flipping halfway through. Remove from oven and transfer to wire rack to cool, 15 to 20 minutes. Top with icing and enjoy. / preparation – filling / In a medium bowl, mix all ingredients until well combined. Set aside. / preparation – icing / In a small bowl, add powdered sugar; mix in water. Continue mixing until a thick glaze forms and then set aside.

Jalapeño Margaritas serves 2

bThese baked beans are also delicious when reheated the next day.

After they’re done cooking, allow them to cool before transferring

them to an airtight container and storing them in the refrigerator.

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serves 2

Yields 8 pop tarts

Filling 1½ cups blackberries 1½ cups Ozark Jam Kitchen gooseberry jam 1½ Tbsp cornstarch ¼ tsp black pepper

Pappy’s Gourmet, a small family-owned business

Open ¯ Faced Apricot Grilled Cheese

6 3 4 3 ½ 2

Tbsp Jam Trak jalapeño jam Tbsp hot water oz tequila oz lime juice oz Luxardo cherry liqueur wedges lime, for garnish

/ preparation / In a large shaker tin, add jam and water; stir until jam has dissolved. Add tequila, lime juice, cherry liqueur and a scoop of ice; shake vigorously. Strain and pour over ice, evenly dividing mixture between two glasses.

Garnish each Margarita with a lime wedge and serve.

3 2 ¼ ½ 3 8 2

Try Maytag Blue Cheese, handcrafted

by Maytag Dairy Farms in Newton, Iowa.

Tbsp butter thick slices sourdough cup blue cheese cup aged Cheddar Tbsp Larder & Cupboard apricot-lemon-thyme jam thin strips speck sprigs fresh thyme, for garnish

/ preparation / Heat oven to 350°F. In a skillet, melt butter; add bread and let cook until toasted on bottom. Flip bread and evenly distribute cheeses on top. Once the other side of the bread has toasted, place in oven, directly on rack; cook until cheeses have melted, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from oven and transfer to plates; evenly distribute jam and speck on top. Garnish with thyme and serve immediately.

Tomato Jam ¯ Roasted Chicken Thighs serves 4 4 4 4 1

boneless, skinless chicken thighs Tbsp Spread tomato jam tsp salt Tbsp oil late summer tomatoes and herbs, for garnish

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 350°F. In a large bowl, combine chicken thighs, jam and salt; allow to marinate in refrigerator, 30 minutes.

In a large skillet over medium high heat, add oil. Once oil is hot, add marinated chicken thighs; cook until caramelized, 2 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer pan to oven; cook until internal temperature has reached 155°F, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove pan from oven; dress chicken in pan or transfer to platter and garnish with fresh tomatoes and herbs. Serve immediately.

Strawberry ¯ Balsamic Baked Beans serves 2 to 4 2 1 2

2 1 ¼ 2

1 ½ ¼ 1 1¼

Tbsp olive oil onion, small dice cloves garlic, diced salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste strips bacon, small dice can navy beans, drained cup ketchup Tbsp Pappy’s Gourmet peppered strawberry- balsamic jam Tbsp brown sugar tsp ground mustard tsp red pepper flakes tsp balsamic vinegar cups water

/ preparation / In a medium saucepan over medium heat, heat oil. Add onion and garlic and season with salt and pepper; cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add bacon; cook, stirring occasionally, until caramelized, 5 to 7 minutes. Add remaining ingredients; turn heat to medium-low and simmer, 30 to 40 minutes. Serve immediately.

MEET COLUMBIA...

SAFELY The world is changing. We are changing. And yet, with 63 miles of trails and dozens of parks, countless restaurants and breweries, unique boutiques and shopping experiences, and unrivaled arts and culture, much of what makes Columbia so special remains exactly the same.

Come see how CoMo is changing to keep you safe.

Visit MeetCoMoNow.com to explore all there is to discover.

All visitors and residents of Columbia are required to wear masks in public places (WEAR — ordinance enforced). We also encourage maintaining a six-foot distance between people not from the same household (WATCH), as well as frequent and thorough hand washing and sanitizing (WASH). / o c to be r 2 02 0

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