September 2011 FEAST Magazine by Feast Magazine

reinventing a classic

destination lunchbox

seafood evangelist

Truffles

kids’ cravings

eaT aT bob’s

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

GIMME S’MoRE

feastSTL.com | SEPTEMBER 2011 | FREE

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ROASTED CHICKEN PASTA SALAD

CHICKEN & BARLEY SOUP

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BUFFALO CHICKEN MAC & CHEESE

You’ll love the flavor and versatility of our whole roasted chicken. Enjoy it as an easy entrée or use in your favorite recipe that calls for cooked chicken. For the delicious dinner ideas shown above and more, visit www.schnuckscooks.com or pick up recipe cards in our Deli Department that feature whole roasted chicken as the main ingredient. Enjoy it tonight!

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Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2011

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SEPTEMBER 2011

PHOTOGRAPHY BY WESLEY LAW

DOCKSIDE dining 70

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SEPTEMBER 2011

RIVERCITY.COM

GREAT NO-FUSS PARTY RECIPES

These make hosting a late-season outdoor gathering a breeze.

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

LUNCH

OUTSIDE THE BOX

SEPTEMBER 2011 FROM THE STAFF

| 14 |

FEASTSTL.COM

What’s online this month.

| 16 |

FROM THE PUBLISHER

Easing into fall.

| 18 |

FEAST FAVES

Our staﬀ and contributors share inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis.

K O

| 32 |

MY STUFF

Go on a play date with Entre owner and head chef John Perkins.

| 35 |

GADGET A-GO-GO

We put ﬁve ﬂexible boning knives to the test. ON THE SHELF

the

| 36 |

New and notable in beer, spirits and wine. MYSTERY SHOPPER

Buy it and try it: berberechos.

| 40 |

TECH SCHOOL

oﬀ

| 38 |

COLUMNS

Elevate an old school favorite and make your own marshmallows.

| 42 |

EASY EATS

You don’t have to wait for dessert when you serve pork tenderloin with chocolate, cherry and port pan sauce.

| 82 |

PULL UP A CHAIR

Welcome fall to the table with the Foley Barstool. COVER PHOTOGRAPHY OF GOURMET S’MORES (PG 40) BY Jennifer Silverberg

CAN IT! Inspired Food Culture

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SEPTEMBER 2011

Raw, Electrifying, n o s a e S 2 1 1 1 All-Consuming 0 2 ale! On S

Magazine Volume 2

| Issue 9 | September 2011

Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville Managing Editor Brandi Wills Online Editor Kristin Brashares Art Director Lisa Triefenbach Vice President of Advertising Donna Bischoﬀ

by John Logan Directed by Steven Woolf Live on The Rep’s Mainstage

SEPTEMBER 7 - OCTOBER 2

Don’t Miss Out!

Best Seats • Best Price • Best Benefits

Enjoy RED with a full series or create your own package with any 3 or more of the following Mainstage shows:

God of Carnage The Adventures of Tom Sawyer Sunday in the Park with George Race & The Comedy of Errors

packages w o h s 6 $84! t s u j t a start

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LIVE THEATRE SO CLOSE

YOU CAN FEEL IT

THE REPERTORY THEATRE OF ST. LOUIS Loretto-Hilton Center • 130 Edgar Road • Webster Groves feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2011

Proofreader Erin Callier Contributing Writers Nathaniel Bonner, Amy Burdge, Erin Callier, Russ Carr, Heidi Dean Pat Eby, Chad Michael George, Erik Jacobs, Jennifer Johnson Angela Ortmann, Matt Seiter, Matt Sorrell, Michael Sweeney Cassandra Vires Contributing Photographers Michael Feher, Jonathan Gayman, Gregg Goldman, Wesley Law Tuan Lee, Laura Ann Miller, Jennifer Silverberg, Corey Woodruﬀ

Contact Us Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor St. Louis, MO 63101 feastSTL.com Advertising Inquiries Susan Eckert, 314.340.8587 ads@feastSTL.com Editorial Comments editor@feastSTL.com

Buy Now

Copy Editor Jill Pfeiﬀer

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2011 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. A publication of Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC A Lee Enterprises Company

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2011

ONLINE CONTENT

ST L .C O M THE FEED > ONLINE EXCLUSIVES > THIS MONTH’S FEAST > WATCH & LISTEN

> FEAST EVENTS > RECIPES > DIGITAL ARCHIVES

VIDEOS SLIDESHOWS PODCASTS

STAY IN THE KNOW: Our weekly enewsletter

keeps you updated on the latest culinary trends in St. Louis. Sign up today at feastSTL.com so you don’t miss out!

GO BEHIND THE SCENES: Tour Truffles’ all-new dining area and hang out in the kitchen with executive chef John Griffiths as he introduces publisher Catherine Neville to the new menu items and demos his trout crudo. MASTER THE MALLOW: Step up a bonfire staple with homemade marshmallows. Tech School chef Cassandra Vires demos all the ooey, gooey goodness in a how-to video.

INTERACT with FEAST Connect with us at facebook. com/feastSTL to stay on top of happenings at FEAST Central and connect with fellow foodies.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ©ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/KCLINE

PACK A PERFECT PICNIC: Get our weekly Dinner & A Show columnist’s shopping list of blanket-ready edibles from Straub’s that will make your next outdoor outing (she suggests The Great Forest Park Balloon Race) seriously delicious.

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2011

Foodspotting Get ideas on where to dine out with FEAST’s monthly Foodspotting Guide to Inspired Eats at foodspotting.com/ feastmagazine.

St. Louis’HOMETOWN Vodka Attend the Final Pearl Recipe

SHOWDOWN & TASTING : November 4th at

COCONUT CARAMEL BLUEBERRY ORANGE CUCUMBER CITRUS PLUM POMEGRANATE ORIGINAL

September Winner

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2oz. Pearl Cucumber Vodka 3 mint leaves 1/2 lime Sweet Prosecco

Muddle the lime and mint in a glass. Splash with Prosecco. Enjoy!

Top three(3) finalist's recipes will be tasted and judged by a select panel. Winner receives $250 grand prize.

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PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY

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Gift cards available Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2011

FROM THE PUBLISHER

FEAST EVENTS

Art of Food Sat., Sept. 1o, 6 to 10pm; Koken Art Factory artoffoodstl.com

The area’s best chefs merge in one spot to celebrate local ingredients and benefit Slow Food St. Louis.

ummer is finally softening and it’s once again pleasant to be outdoors.

L’Ecole Academy Stir-Fry Class Thu., Sept. 15, 5:30pm to 9:30pm; L’Ecole Academy $100, lecoleacademy.com or 314.587.2433

St. Louisans are famously enamored with al fresco dining and so this month we take you to Carlyle Lake for an easy late summer dinner party (p. 70). Wanderlust chef Erik Jacobs served up a menu that is low on stress and high on flavor to make entertaining dockside (or poolside or even on your patio) a breeze. After the shoot wrapped up, we set sail and toasted the day with craft beer and Torrentes. Beer pairs beautifully with the light, bright dishes in this issue, so we reached out to Mike Sweeney to get his recommendations for canned craft brews (p. 68). This time of year we’re picnicking, camping, heading to festivals or enjoying a float trip and glass bottles usually aren’t welcome. Thankfully, great canned craft beer is becoming widely available and we’ve got a cooler full of recommendations that will satisfy. Our September issue rounds out with a peek into Bob’s Seafood (p. 57) and inventive lunch ideas for the backto-school set (p. 46). Homemade marshmallows (p. 40), pork with a chocolate-cherry-port sauce (p. 42), a taste of John Griffiths’ reinvented Truffles (p. 18) and a sip of California Viognier (p. 19) all make for a delicious way to bid summer farewell and beckon the harvest season that’s just around the corner. Until next time,

A wok isn’t just an oversized skillet. Learn how to use this versatile pan and create perfectly authentic stir-frys in your own kitchen.

Wine Tasting Thu., Sept. 15, 6 to 7pm; Balaban’s Complimentary, rsvp@stlwinegirl.com

Join columnist Angela Ortmann for a food-andwine tasting at Balaban’s.

IRONkids Cooking Competition Mon., Sept. 19, 5:30 to 9:30pm; Third Degree Glass Factory $100, discoveringoptions.org/Events.php

Five teams of kids, led by St. Louis’ finest chefs, square off in this event to benefit Discovering Options.

Green Homes & Great Health Sat., Sept. 24, 9am to 5pm; Missouri Botanical Garden greenhomesstlouis.org

Discover the many ways that plants, air, water, soil and energy sustain our homes, our health and our Earth.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Wed., Sept. 28, 6pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $40, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Get hands-on at our monthly Schnucks class and make the pork with port featured on page 42.

Feast Book Club Meet-Up Mon., Sept. 26, 6pm; Moulin Events $40, brownpapertickets.com/event/194061

Be the first to get your hands on Stone Soup Cottage’s new cookbook, while you sample dishes from its pages and meet the authors, Carl and Nancy McConnell. Ticket price includes entry into the event, complimentary food and drinks and a copy of the book for signing.

Oceania Luxury Culinary Cruise May 6 to 17, 2012, from $3,799 per person; altairtravelinc.com

Catherine Neville

Join publisher Catherine Neville on a 10-day luxury cruise from Istanbul to Venice with ports of call ranging from Mykonos to Dubrovnik.

Cat’s Picks Tune in as FEAST publisher Catherine Neville chats with host McGraw Milhaven and gives her weekly picks for the best places to eat and drink in the St. Louis area. feedback?

catherine@feaststl.com 16

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2011

PHOTOGRAPHy by Tuan Lee

Wednesdays, 8:35Am; The BIG 550 KTRS

So many

choices so hard to choose

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Clip this coupon for $1.00 off admission

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Brio Tuscan Grille Cardwell’s at the Plaza

Bissinger’s

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Canyon Cafe

Fleming’s Prime Steak House The Zodiac Room at Neiman Marcus

Coming Soon BrickTop’s Restaurant and Saint Louis Bread Co.

Gift cards available at our concierge and online. LINDBERGH BLVD AND CLAYTON RD ! 314. 432. 0604 ! PLAZAFRONTENAC. COM OPEN MONDAY – S AT URDAY 1 0-7PM ! SUNDAY N OON-5PM

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2011

FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

The changes at Truffles have been introduced gracefully, which is to say that it still feels like the well-loved Truffles, just somehow better. More modern. More sophisticated. That refined sensibility also emanates from executive chef John Griffiths’ kitchen, which is turning out upscale Italian dishes that somehow remain rustic and approachable. Trout crudo is given nuance with pecans, steelhead caviar and herb blossoms. Many contemporary restaurants encourage sharing among diners and at Truffles, this trend appears in the form of centerpiece proteins: whole flounder, La bistecca Fiorentina (a beautiful, massive steak), a whole roasted chicken, and more. These shareable dishes are carved in the center of the dining room at the new Chef’s Table, which brings some of the action normally relegated to the kitchen out where diners can enjoy the show. Served with sides like housemade pasta or blistered greens, sharing Griffiths’ seasonal Italian cuisine elevates “family style” to entirely new heights. 9202 Clayton Road, Ladue todayattruffles.com 18

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SEPTEMBER 2011

314.567.9100 LaDUE

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jennifer Silverberg

A ClAssiC, Reinvented

Truffles

EXCLUSIVE VIDEO!

Get in the kitchen with chef Griﬃths and watch him prepare the trout crudo pictured above. Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone (get the free app at gettag.mobi), or watch the video in the Watch & Listen section at feastSTL.com.

FEAST FAVES / s e C r e t I n g r e d I e n t FEAST FAVES | what we’re drInkIng

Santa BarBara Viognier

presents

wRiTTeN By Jennifer Johnson

Open a bottle of Viognier from Santa Barbara, Calif., at your next dock party (see page 70 for a delicious dockside menu), and you’ll agree this varietal shows tremendous versatility with seafood. Viognier’s journey, from a mere 24 acres in Northern Rhône, France, in 1968 to celebrity status in the 1990s, has yielded this variety an ideal home in Santa Barbara’s nearly perfect coastal climate of cool nights and dry, sunny days. The intrigue is in Viognier’s marvelous, heady aromatics of apricot, passion fruit, lychee and orange blossom – captured during an ever-so-brief window when these grapes are perfectly ripe at harvest – that are emphasized by its luscious, full-bodied palate.

2010 MelVille Viognier, estate Verna’s

Santa Barbara County, Calif. Melville’s painstaking handling of Viognier grapes includes slow and cold fermentation and has yielded true varietal expression, with aromas of mango, white peaches and just-sliced ruby-red grapefruit with a rich, mango-fleshy mouth feel. elegant, brisk finish with a flick of minerality and a pleasing waft of petrol. Pair with fritto misto, smoked duck canapés, steamed mussels in white wine or fried chicken.

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Local Harvest Grocery, 3108 Morgan Ford Road, Tower Grove South, localharvestgrocery.com; $26

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2009 Jaffurs Viognier

Santa Barbara County, Calif. A blend from two vineyard sites to balance aromatics and acidity, Jaffurs Viognier effectively offers an exotic core of papaya, kiwi and tangerine, with a ripe, juicy and decadent mouth feel and a lingering finish of restrained minerality. Pair with lobster risotto, fried soft-shell crab sandwiches, potato-encrusted halibut or grilled pork chops with peach chutney.

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The Wine & Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, wineandcheeseplace.com; $26.99

A St. Louis-based wine and food enthusiast, Jennifer Johnson is a sommelier, wine educator, journalist and hospitality and marketing consultant who loves to celebrate life, family, food and wine

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SEPTEMBER 2011

FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

SYRIAN DELIGHTS

Longtime Loop favorite Ranoush recently opened a new location in downtown Kirkwood, bringing their superlative Syrian cuisine to another strip of beloved neighborhood restaurants. Light dishes burst with Mediterranean flavors of spices, herbs and citrus, while heartier fare offers generous portions of juicy, grilled meats. Share the mezza for two – a selection of small plates – in the colorful and aromatic dining room, or skip the formalities and dig right into the chicken shawarma, a warm pita overflowing with grilled chicken and onions, served with a thick and potent garlic sauce. beef kafta features balls of seasoned ground beef that are skewered and grilled, and the baked aubergines (eggplant) offers a mouthwatering meatless option, served with onions and peppers in a bubbly tomato sauce. Try the knafeh for dessert – a hybrid of baklava and cheesecake that marries layers of sweet cheese with fluffy phyllo. While the Kirkwood menu doesn’t vary much from their offerings in The Loop, we’re not sure we’d want it to … why mess with a good thing? – B.W.

Ranoush 314.726.6874 The Loop KirKwood 20

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SEPTEMBER 2011

PHOTOGRAPHy by Gregg Goldman

6501 Delmar blvd., The Loop 200 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood ranoush.com

FEAST FAVES / s e C r e t I n g r e d I e n t FEAST FAVES | FOOd stUFF

11769 Manchester Road • Des Peres, MO 63131 In Des Peres Commons next to Ace Hardware

Made With Beer

Good life inside and out

314-966-0800

Mon-Fri 10am-7pm • Sat 9am-5pm • Sun 10am-5pm

www.terrastl.com

Everything’s better with beer, right? The secret ingredient in these savory products is a splash of the bubbly brew. – B.W.

Pair with: Fish and chiPs

221 Lamp & Lantern Village Town & Country, MO 63017 Mon Fri 77:30am-9pm :30 30am 9pm • Sat 77:30am-7pm :30am 7p 7 m • Su SSunn 9a 99am-6pm m 6p Mon-Fri

www.acestl.com

Inside of Rick's Ace Hardware

636-386-7733

Pair with: caliFornia Pinot noir

Pair with: BeeF and carrots

| 1 | Waldburg Balsam Beer vinegar, $4.99/100 ml; VOM FASS, 7314 Manchester Road, Maplewood, vomfassslmo.com | 2 | Raspberry Bellavitano cheese, $15.99/ lb; The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, thewinemerchantltd.com | 3 | Belgian Beer & Onion Braising Base, $16; Williams-Sonoma, multiple locations, williams-sonoma.com

VinegAR And CHeeSe PHOTOgRAPHy By Laura Ann Miller

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2011

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SEPTEMBER 2011

FEAST FAVES

| whAT we’re drInkIng

The MarTini STORy AND RECIPE by Matt Seiter

Perhaps one of the most misconstrued of all classic cocktails, the simple, elegant, beautiful martini has been a shape-shifter since its inception more than 120 years ago. After many facelifts and countless variations, we can only rely on three things common to most pre-Prohibition recipes: gin, vermouth and bitters. When it comes to the matter of shaken or stirred, it depends on the drinker. Normally, I stir a martini. Stirring keeps the integrity of the ingredients and, when poured into a cocktail glass, the martini is clear and elegant with a silky smooth mouth feel. According to 1940s cocktail enthusiast David Embury, author of The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks, a shaken martini is called a bradford. When shaken, it becomes aerated and lighter, with a cloudy hue. However, over the course of a few minutes, the cloudiness goes away and reveals the clear, pristine drink as if stirred. Despite all the recipes I’ve come across for this lovely libation, I prefer the one mentioned in The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks by an anonymous contributor. It calls for gin, dry vermouth, a dash of orange bitters and a lemon peel for garnish. (See the recipe below for proportions.)

The Martini Serves | 1 | 2¼ oz ¾ oz 2 dashes

North Shore Distiller’s Gin No. 6 Dolin Vermouth de Chambéry Dry Regan’s Orange Bitters No. 6 lemon peel, for garnish

| Preparation | Combine gin, vermouth and bitters in a mixing glass Laura Ann Miller

with cracked ice. Stir for 30 seconds. Strain into a cocktail glass, and garnish with lemon peel. If desired, a few olives on a cocktail pick will add a classic feel.

PHOTOGRAPHy by

Matt Seiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the National Board for the USBG’s MA program and is a continuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft of mixology. He is a member of Drink Lab and is the creator of the Sanctuaria Cocktail Club.

BArTender knOwLedge The Making (and Make Over) of the Martini 1884: The ﬁrst printed recipe for anything resembling a martini was in 1884 in O.H. byron’s The Modern Bartender’s Guide. In the book, it’s called the Martinez, and the recipe simply states: “Same as Manhattan, only you substitute gin for whisky.” Equal parts gin to Italian vermouth (sweet vermouth) with two dashes of curaçao and two dashes of bitters. Late 1880s: Many publications from the late 1880s reported that martinis were being served by barmen all over New york City. At the same time, we see dry vermouth come

into play. The American palate was becoming less sweet, and drier products were becoming available in the market. We see a switch from Old Tom gin (a sweetened gin) to London dry gins and a shift from sweet, dark rums to white and dry rums. 1900: A few cocktails appeared in bar guides around the turn of the 20th century that evolved into the iconic martini, one being the Marguerite, made with Plymouth (English) gin, French vermouth and orange bitters. 1920s: The v-shaped, conical cocktail glass now synonymous with the martini was introduced in the early 1920s. (It wasn’t until the 1960s, however, that it became the symbol for bars and cocktails.) And, in 1923, William F. Mulhall wrote The Golden Age of Booze, an article about his years pouring martinis at New york City’s famed Hoﬀman House. – M.S.

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2011

FEAST FAVES

| DESIGN TRENDS WE LOVE

SCRAPWOOD WALLPAPER Specialty wall treatments are highly coveted yet hardly ever achieved. As easy as they make it look in home makeover shows, we’re convinced those kinds of DIY techniques are benefiting from the magic of television. Which is why Dutch furniture designer Piet Hein Eek’s scrapwood wallpaper is a dream come true and our current design trend obsession. This class A, double-layered, non-woven, extremely high-resolution wallpaper – which mimics salvaged, weathered wood – received an Editors Award at this summer’s 2011 International Contemporary Furniture Fair (ICFF) in New York City, and our own Feast editors would like to second the motion. Six distressed styles printed on FSC-certified paper make it a perfect fit for any room in the home. But at $4.63 per square foot (scrapwoodwallpaper.com), it’s best suited to smaller areas, like a backsplash, breakfast nook or a single wall in the dining room. So toss out the scrapers, sponges, stencils and whatever other painful processes you were planning to inflict on your walls and instead smooth on a few sheets of this sleek, chic paper. – B.W.

Images courtesy of scrapwoodwallpaper.com

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SEPTEMBER 2011

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�� Rooted in the flavors of the season.

�� 9202 Clayton Road

314.567.9100

todayattruffles.com

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SEPTEMBER 2011

Jonathan Gayman

FEAST FAVES / S ecreT ingredienT FEAST FAVES | THe diSH

COnTRIBuTOR’S PICk

Heidi dean

PHOTOGRAPHy By

a tasty two-piece Great fried chicken seems simple, but it’s a balancing act. Too greasy, and it’s gross. Too bland, and why bother? Porter’s fried chicken gracefully walks this culinary high wire. The double-layer breading is ﬂavorfully salty without being overwhelming. The meat – even on wings – is succulent. It’s such a happy marriage that I try to get some of both in every bite.

Porter’s Fried Chicken 314.781.2097 Maplewood

I love that the two-piece box dinner comes with classic sides – creamy slaw, mashed potatoes and an airy roll. The delightful deep-fried chicken alone would be enough to lure me to this strip-mall jewel, but the homestyle extras add some delicious nostalgia.

3628 S. Big Bend Road, Maplewood porterschicken.com Read more from our out-on-the-town-adventuress Heidi Dean at feastSTL.com in her weekly Shop Girl roundup of must-try-and-buy foods.

Enjoy Sunday In The Park WHERE the BEST THINGS COME IN

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573.996.3716

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SEPTEMBER 2011

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FEAST FAVES

| shop-o-matIC

a homebrew mecca Hey fellas. Remember all the times your wife/ girlfriend/mom/sister dragged you to the shoe department and left you sitting there, bored out of your mind, while they excitedly dove into the goods? Well, it’s time the tables are turned.

While the store has been in this location for 20 years, they welcome brewers of any experience level and oﬀer regular classes, demos and tastings to help you perfect your techniques and recipes. Be sure to ask for a sample of whatever they’ve got on tap at the moment … and ask for a second glass for your friend sitting in the corner checking her watch and sighing loudly. – B.W. 231 Lamp & Lantern Village, Chesterﬁeld wineandbeermaking.com

PHOTOGRAPHy By

Corey Woodruff

Pop into St. Louis Wine & Beermaking at pretty much any time of day and you’ll see giddy guys perusing the aisles, checking out the new oﬀerings, stocking up on ingredients for their next big batch and longingly eyeing the enormous Boilermaker brewing St. Louis system in the center of the room. This store, tucked into the Lamp Wine & & Lantern shopping center at Beermaking the corner of Clayton and Woods Mill roads, is Mecca for the home 636.230.8277 brewer or winemaker. Here is Chesterfield where you’ll ﬁnd all the ingredients,

equipment and knowledge you need to make your own beer and wine (and vinegars, mead, sake, etc.) at home. From the juices, fruits, hops, barley and yeasts you’ll need in order to mix up your wine or beer to the barrels, fermenters, testing kits, bottles and corkers you’ll need to store it, they have it all.

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SEPTEMBER 2011

custom covers

over 600 fabrics It’s your home, and your style! Rothman gives you the options to customize your room the way you want. Our Broyhill Custom Cover program offers over 600 designer fabric choices that let you create the look that perfectly reflects your unique sense of style.

rothmanfurniture.com O’FALLON, MO

O’FALLON, IL

SOUTH SIDE

636-978-3500

618-632-1700

314-968-5595

SOUTH COUNTY

DELLWOOD

ALTON

314-892-9002

314-388-0200

618-462-9770

Daily 10-8 Sunday 12-5

FEAST FAVES

| what weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re buyIng

OutdOOr Linens Whether picnicking in the park, throwing a backyard bash or enjoying a mid-day snack on the patio, dress up the scene with these stylish outdoor-friendly linens.

|2|

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| 1 | Yarn-dyed stripe table runner, $39; Williams-Sonoma, multiple locations, williams-sonoma.com | 2 | French Laundry Bird Toile & TickingStripe table accessories, $50-$60; Neiman Marcus, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, neimanmarcus.com | 3 | Turkish-T basic cotton towels/blankets, $45 each; ashblue.com | 4 | Nifty napkins, $32 for set of six; Anthropologie, St. Louis Galleria, Richmond Heights, anthropologie.com

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2011

MY STUFF

John PERkinS

hEad chEf/ownER of EnTRE

writtEn by Catherine Neville

Do you go out a lot? We rarely, if ever, go out to eat. Most of our meals, when I am home, center around our kitchen counter. Are you the family cook or is your wife? My wife is the primary cook at home, although there are times when I am happy to relieve her of that duty. She is equally happy, but for exactly the opposite reason. What do the kids like to eat? My daughter Eva is the most adventurous eater in the family; there is nothing she won’t try. She may not like it, but she will try it. Shepherd on the other hand, winces at everything from tomatoes to onions to anything green. Clem, the youngest, is virtually Garﬁeld in little girl form ... she eats anything and everything put in front of her; typically in volumes that surpass the older kids. What’s in your fridge right now? Leftover lasagna, Gogurt, a lot of milk. Nothing interesting. If you could change one thing about your home kitchen, what would it be? Everything. We have an electric stove. We have a portable dishwasher. We have an undersized and old refrigerator … everything would go. More counter seating. An ice maker! If you weren’t a chef, you’d be … Most likely I would be working at a church somewhere. But sometimes I think that if I wasn’t a cook, I would be doing something artistic. Honestly, I have no idea. My interests are too varied, and my skills are too shallow to know what else I could actually do and be halfway good at. Wine or beer? Beer, preferably an IPA. Speciﬁcally Firestone Walkers Double Jack, Nectar IPA and Green Flash West Coast IPA. Doughnuts or bagels? Doughnuts … the fried cake kind makes me rather weak in the knees. With milk, naturally. What would be your last meal? A warm loaf of crusty bread, a soft, ripe goats’ milk cheese, fresh farm butter, kosher salt and a bottle of wine (preferably something with pepper, plum, smoke and leather notes).

Entre Underground | Mobile | Events 314.520.6750 entrestl.com Visit feastSTL.com to learn about Entre’s evolution and read our entire interview with Perkins. PicturEd: Lindsay (wife), Evangeline (6), Shepherd (4), clementine (1)

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SEPTEMBER 2011

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Gregg Goldman

It may surprise you to learn that John Perkins didn’t set out to become a chef. As head chef of Entre, Perkins is constantly pushing culinary expectations. Attend one of his underground dinners and you won’t know exactly what to expect, but you know that it will be inventive and utterly delicious. Anticipate dishes like fried salad dressing, encapsulated mango juice on beet tartar or savory blue cheese ice cream on grilled peaches. “I realized as soon as I graduated from seminary that this is what I wanted to do,” says Perkins. “I had never felt the sense of fulﬁllment in anything the way I did with cooking. Learning, failing, researching and exploring new tastes, techniques and concepts has never ceased being a fascinating and enjoyable journey for me.”

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SEPTEMBER 2011

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Put to the teSt

FLEXIBLE

BONING

KNIVES WrITTeN By pat eby

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PhoToGrAPhy By Laura ann Miller

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Wüsthof Silverpoint II 5-inch Boning Knife

rapala Stainless Steel 6-inch Fillet Knife

dexter Flexible 6-inch Boning Knife, Sani-Safe

dexter 7-inch Narrow Fillet Knife, Sani-Safe

Victorinox Flexible 6-inch Fillet Knife

PROS

The blade on this knife cuts with the least drag of any knife tested. The one-piece, high-carbon German steel blade is stamped rather than forged, but Wüsthof technology triumphs with a perfect machine-ground laser factory edge. The best knife for preventing damage to the meat. A terriﬁc price for a well-made knife.

A utilitarian tackle-box knife with a workmanlike blade and a terrific low price; even a beginner can pick up this knife and practice with little out-ofpocket expense. The name rapala is better known to fishermen than to cooks, but here’s a knife to try if you’re not sure you want a boning knife. It cuts cleanly and quickly, handles well at the start, and slices fish, chicken and pork into thin fillets just right for the campfire or stovetop.

Just slightly wider in the blade and shorter in length than the 7-inch Dexter ﬁllet knife also reviewed this month, this knife moves in and out of tasks much faster and with more control than its longer counterpart. The shorter knife cuts more quickly around odd-shaped bones. The liftand-cut motion used to remove skin ﬂows better with the center of the blade closer at hand.

This commercial knife, used mostly in restaurant and food service kitchens, delivers good value for a low price. The blade cuts cleanly around bones and slips easily between skin and meat for a clean cut with little loss. The bigger, more rigid blade worked best to trim a hambone for ham salad. The seal between the blade and the handle material is impervious to bacteria, a plus when cutting raw meat, ﬁsh and chicken.

The curved blade on this Swiss-made knife looks great and cuts with terriﬁc control on dense meats like chops and chicken. Fish, too, ﬁllet thin and smooth without tears and jags because this knife exits cuts as cleanly as it started them. The cut motion seems smoother and the turns more intuitive with this easy-to-handle blade. Comfy cushion grip, too, made of bacteria-resistant material.

CONS

Wüsthof aﬁcionados may ﬁnd the utilitarian plastic handle cheaplooking. $29.99; Bertarelli Cutlery, 1927 Marconi Ave., The Hill, bertarellicutlery.com

CONS

The sturdy white handle lacks style.

CONS

The inﬂexible plastic handle makes for an uncomfortable but safe grip. The expected life for this hard-working knife is one season in the tackle box. $5.49; Paul’s Bait & Tackle, 4421 Chippewa St., South St. Louis, paulsbaittackle.com

$17; B & J Peerless Food Service Equipment, 1616 Dielman Road, Olivette, bjpeerless.com

CONS CONS

The longer blade length makes cutting close to the rigid bones of small pork chops a bit awkward. Ditto for skinning smaller ﬁsh. The white handle doesn’t look too handsome on the knife rack, either.

length: Six inches makes quick work of most cuts. Longer, more rigid blades bone out larger cuts of meat like hams and roasts, but don’t buy more length than you need. Seven inches, tops. The longer the blade, the harder it is to control.

$19.44; Hess Meat Machines, 5640 Gravois Road, Bevo, hessmm.com

$16.91; Session Fixture Co., 6044 Lemay Ferry Road, Oakville, sessionﬁxtures.com

Che

Ck pag out e

W hat to l oo K For : Blade: A good boning knife needs three things for the blade to work effectively: flexibility, a keen edge and a sharp point. First, blades flex in varying degrees, from nearly rigid to supple as a contortionist’s backbone. Flex is most important in the first third of the blade length to allow you to maneuver in close as you cut bad from good. Second, look for high-carbon or stainless steel blades, which can be sharpened regularly. Third, a boning knife’s point should look wicked and pierce fast. It creates the entry point for the knife to shimmy next to bone or slip under fish skin.

No complaints with this goodlooking knife, except for a little name confusion. The brand name for these knives used to be Forschner.

handle: Consider heft, balance and grip, a trifecta of important qualities that reduce hand fatigue, make cleaner cuts and promote safe cutting. Make sure the handle length fits your hand comfortably between the finger guard near the blade and the handle guard at the butt of the knife. Check balance. Light boning blades don’t need a too-heavy handle.The grip should feel secure. If the handle slides too freely in your hand, hold out for a nonslip grip. Boning knife or fillet knife: Both knives work well to cut around bones, remove sinews and silverskin on meats and chicken, and remove the skin from fish. If you work more with fish than meats, choose a fillet knife and vice-versa. For most home cooks, one good-quality, flexible knife will last a lifetime.

Useoneofthesenifty 57! kniveswhencleaningyour catchorpreppingsomeofthefresh findsfromBob’s Seafood,profiled inthismonth’s issue. Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2011

ON the shelf

BEER WrITTen By Michael Sweeney

SPIRITS

The creator of STLHops.com and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the Craft Beer Manager at Lohr Distributing.

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

Perennial Artisan Ales’ hommel Bier STYLE: Belgian Pale Ale (5.9% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Perennial Artisan Ales, 8125 Michigan Ave., Ste. 101, Carondelet, perennialbeer.com; $5 (16-oz draught) PAIRINGS: Grilled grouper • Provolone

one of St. Louis’ newest breweries, Perennial artisan ales has promised to constantly push the envelope and make beers that are unique and tasty. Its ﬁrst creation is a Belgian pale ale that combines a complex Belgian yeast strain with some bold american hops. It's a delicious marriage of new World and old.

Brewery Ommegang’s Rare Vos STYLE: Belgian-style Amber Ale (6.5% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Whole Foods Market, multiple locations, wholefoodsmarket.com; $7.99 (750 ml bottle) PAIRINGS: Mussels • Chorizo

This amber, Belgian-style beer is as interesting as it is decadent. The unique Belgian yeast strain gives this beer a fruity, almost pear-like character. Luckily, the high, but not overwhelming, amount of carbonation on the beer keeps it feeling spritzy and keeps you coming back for glass after glass.

Odell Brewing Co.’s IPA STYLE: American IPA (7% abv) AVAILABLE AT: The Wine Merchant Ltd., 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com; $9.99 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles) PAIRINGS: Torta al pastor • Green goddess salad

This IPa could have been called Fruit Punch. one whiﬀ of this beer is a haymaker to your senses. It has a huge orangy and lemony aroma that will make you think you’re standing in a citrus ﬁeld in Florida. although it has enough malt to help balance the beer, the bitterness certainly shines through.

WrITTen By Chad Michael George

Barsol Pisco PROVENANCE: Peru (40% abv) AVAILABLE AT: The Wine Chateau, 90 Clarkson Wilson Center, Chesterﬁeld, thewinechateau.com; $24.99

Pisco often gets pigeonholed into a one-cocktail application (pisco sour), like cachaca for a caipirinha. This diverse spirit deserves a better fate, and BarSol is a welcome addition to the limited pisco selection currently on shelves. Distilled from 100 percent ﬁrstpress Quebranta grapes in a pot still and distilled at bottle proof, no water is added prior to bottling to lower the alcohol percentage. What comes out of the still goes straight into the bottle.

the Big O PROVENANCE: St. Louis (15% abv) AVAILABLE AT: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $29.99

Two St. Louisans, Bill Foster and kathy kuper, decided to come up with their own liqueur after tasting homemade limoncello. ginger would be the dominant ﬂavor in their after-dinner cordial. When good friend Tom knecht tasted it, he urged the couple to take it to market. now, we can all enjoy The Big o. It is spicy, sweet, stimulating and smooth. I predict it will appear on many cocktail menus around town in the coming months.

Wódka Vodka PROVENANCE: Poland (40% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Friar Tuck, multiple locations, friartuckonline.com; $10.99

I’ve written this column for more than a year and have never featured straight vodka. But this new vodka deserves some respect, and it happens to be a bargain as well. Wódka is one of the most clean and smooth vodkas I’ve ever tasted. Triple-distilled from 100 percent rye grains, this Polish vodka sets a new bar for the less-than-$15-per-bottle vodka market. Vodka should be ﬂavorless and odorless. This is both, to perfection, with a silky smooth texture.

OUR TOP PICKS FOR SEPTEMBER

PourIng WIne PhoTograPhy By ©ISTockPhoTo.com/LaurI PaTTerSon

WINE written by Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann shares her passion for all things epicurean through her event and consultation business, which is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.

2009 Tikal Patriota PROVENANCE: Mendoza, Argentina AVAILABLE AT: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $18.99 PAIRINgs: Cheddar • Barbecue chicken • Carnitas

Full-bodied and full of ripe fruit, this blend of bonarda and Malbec is layered with berries, cocoa and spice. exhibiting a great balance and a persistent ﬁnish, the wine is lush without being overpowering. A paradigm red for transitioning to fall temperatures. CheCk iT ouT!

FeAst extrA

Feast readers get this wine for just $16.99 at The Wine & Cheese Place during the month of September.

2009 Substance Pinot Gris PROVENANCE: Yakima Valley, Wash. AVAILABLE AT: Lukas Liquor, 15921 Manchester Road, Ellisville, lukasliquorstl.com; $16.99 PAIRINgs: Mussels • Tandoori chicken • Fish tacos

Alluring aromas of apple and almond make way to refreshing citrus and melon ﬂavors on the palate in this medium-bodied white. Hints of minerality from stainless steel fermentation are a pleasant addition to the wine’s crisp nature and racy acidity.

2008 Alexandre Sirech Le Bordeaux PROVENANCE: Bordeaux, France AVAILABLE AT: Friar Tuck, 9053 Watson Road, Crestwood, friartuckonline.com; $12.99 PAIRINgs: Prime rib • Mushroom tart • Osso buco

A velvety blend of Merlot and Cabernet, rich with bright red berry notes and well-integrated tannins. representing a new era of bordeaux, Sirech has crafted an approachable wine to make an otherwise intimidating wine region accessible.

Join Angela Ortmann and FEAST publisher Catherine Neville for a happy hour wine tasting on Thu., Sept. 15, at Balaban's, at 6pm. RSVP to rsvp@stlwinegirl.com.

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JOIN US! Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2011

mySTery Shopper

Berberecho Linguini with Chorizo and Fennel By Mason Denton, Terrace View

Serves | 4 | 1 Tbsp ¼ lb 1 ½ cup 1 cup 1 cup 1 tsp 2 1 lb ¼ cup

olive oil ground chorizo shallot, ﬁnely diced thinly sliced fennel Rioja (Spanish red wine) vegetable stock ground cumin 6.5-oz tins of berberechos, drained (reserve juice from 1 can) linguini, boiled and drained chopped parsley and chives salt and freshly ground black pepper fennel fronds, for garnish

over medium-high heat. add chorizo and shallot, being careful not to burn the shallot. add fennel, then the rioja, cooking oﬀ the alcohol for 30 to 45 seconds. add stock, cumin and reserved berberecho juice. reduce by half, and then add berberechos. Toss with linguini. Finish with herbs and season to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish with fennel fronds. Serve immediately with warmed bread.

meeT: BERBERECHOS Looking for something exotic to spice things up in the kitchen? Pull out your shiniest pan, stare at your own heavy-lidded reﬂection and, in your best Antonio Banderas or Penélope Cruz voice, breathily whisper “berberechos.” These tiny mollusks, with their tanned complexions and bodies glistening with brine, could be just the culinary ﬂing you’ve been desiring.

Stop by 38

feastSTL.com

wriTTen By Russ Carr

What aRe theY?

hoW Do I Use theM?

Berberechos is the Spanish name for a variety of bivalve – a member of the clam family – harvested in the estuaries of Galicia (that nub of Spain just north of Portugal). Small (about the size of a green olive) and slightly chewy, berberechos range in color from creamy white to light brown, usually with a yellow ‘foot’ at one end.

Berberechos are most common in Spain as straight-up tapas – something to nibble on while sipping a glass of albariño or a crisp Pilsner. a few squirts of lemon juice and a toss of parsley are enough to brighten the little clams’ ﬂavor. Serve them up with some crusty bread and olive oil for an authentic taste of Galicia. For the more ambitious, berberechos can be used in dishes such as paellas and seafood stews or tossed with pasta or into a salad.

even if you’ve never tried berberechos, you may have heard of them under their english moniker: cockles. in the famous irish song, Molly Malone dutifully hawked them (and mussels!) in the streets of “Dublin’s fair city.” although you may not be able to buy cockles “alive, alive-o,” brined and tinned Spanish berberechos are readily available.

Don’t lose the thrill of your new relationship by making things too complicated, though. Berberechos have a distinct ﬂavor, but their small size means that ﬂavor can be easily overpowered by other ingredients. Simple preparations will bring out the berberechos’ best.

to pick up more delicious recipes featuring berberechos.Visit straubs.com for information on its four locations. SEPTEMBER 2011

PHOTOGraPHy By Jennifer Silverberg

| Preparation | Heat oil in a large sauce pot

check it out!

FeaSt extRa

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SEPTEMBER 2011

TECH SCHOOL

MARSHMALLOW STORY AND RECIPE BY Cassandra Vires

Homemade marshmallows aren’t your average Peep. Storebought versions are overly sweet, chewy and dry compared to the moist, fluffy and balanced flavor of homemade “mallows.” And the process is incredibly simple for even the most novice cook. It may be a surprise that this classic comfort food was originally created for its medicinal purposes. Sourced from the marsh mallow plant, it’s sap was made into foam and used as a throat lozenge and cough suppressant until the late 1800s. At that point, people started to see its commercial appeal and substituted readily available gelatin for the sap. The marshmallow as a widely available treat was born. Today, the sweet snack is experiencing a resurgence in the gourmet market, with restaurants featuring homemade marshmallow on their menus and confection shops selling fruit marshmallows and marshmallow pies.

Although its gourmet applications may seem impressive, what’s more amazing is the simplicity of this delicious confection. As with most classic recipes, there are numerous variations. Traditionally, an egg-white meringue was whipped into the marshmallow mix, but with the growing awareness of salmonella, that was phased out. Other recipes feature cornstarch. The addition of cornstarch stabilizes the foam and also decreases the stickiness, but if you’re careful in your recipe, stability isn’t a concern. Besides, the stickiness is half the fun! Once you’ve mastered the art of making marshmallow, the applications are endless. You can add it to hot cocoa or coffee, top a soup or soufflé with it, add fun flavorings or, my favorite, create bite-sized s’mores with homemade marshmallow. The kids will love it and, of course, so will the adults.

Chef Cassandra Vires received her culinary training in Houston, Texas, and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes. Her new restaurant, Home Wine Kitchen, opened recently in Maplewood.

COOKING VIDEO!

Watch chef Cassy make these ooey gooey morsels and turn them into gourmet s’mores in this month’s video. Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone (get the free app at gettag.mobi), or watch the video in the Watch & Listen section at

feastSTL.com.

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2011

Homemade Marshmallow For a fun application, dip the marshmallow squares in melted chocolate and crushed graham crackers to create gourmet s’mores!

bowl of an electric stand mixer ﬁtted with the whisk, and sprinkle the gelatin on top of the water. Let the gelatin sit and “bloom” for 10 minutes.

Yield | 48 marshmallows |

Meanwhile, combine sugar, corn syrup, salt, | 1 | vanilla scrapings

¾ cup 3 Tbsp 2 cups 1/8 cup ¼ tsp 1

confectioners’ sugar, as needed cold water, divided gelatin powder granulated sugar light corn syrup ﬁne salt vanilla bean, halved and scraped

and remaining ¼ cup water in a medium saucepan. Boil until the mixture reaches 240°F, using a candy thermometer to gauge the temperature, and is at the “soft ball” stage.

inch cake pan and ﬁt the bottom with a piece of parchment paper. Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar. Set aside until needed.

With the stand mixer on low speed, slowly pour the hot sugar mixture into the bloomed gelatin. Once all the hot liquid is added, gradually increase the mixer speed to high.

Pour ½ cup cold water in the

Continue mixing at high speed

| Preparation | Grease a 9x13-

until the mixture is ﬂuﬀy and has tripled in volume.

| 2 | Using an oiled rubber spatula, transfer marshmallow mixture to the prepared pan. Smooth the surface using the spatula or an oiled sheet of plastic wrap. Let cool overnight. Lightly dust a workspace with confectioners’ sugar. Invert the set marshmallow onto the powdered surface. If it sticks, use an oiled butter knife or spatula to help it come loose. Dust a pizza cutter with confectioners’ sugar, and cut the marshmallow into bite-sized squares. | 3 | Dust with additional confectioners’ sugar, and store in an airtight container for up to two weeks.

lÏ¨ªˆ« v††¬

vƒˆ‡ yÏ…L) ) Check Out Schnucks Cooks Videos For Tips & Techniques!

Our Schnucks Cooks how-to videos are full of tips and techniques from our team of culinary experts. If you want to learn more, check out our video library at www.schnuckscooks.com. You’ll also find a variety of Schnucks Cooks recipes for quick, easy and affordable meal solutions. At our in-store Schnucks Cooks stations, our experienced Cooking Coaches will demonstrate how to cook our featured recipes and sample them for you to try! You’ll find all the ingredients and cooking equipment for each recipe next to our Schnucks Cooks station in select stores.

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Salty Caramel Sauce |1|

|2|

You’ll love our foolproof recipe for homemade caramel sauce! Drizzle sauce over fruit pies, baked apples, bread or rice pudding, ice cream or crepes. Use it as a dip for pretzels or sliced fruit. Here are a few steps for making a sumptuous caramel sauce (see complete recipe online).

Å)

PHOTOGRAPHY bY Jennifer Silverberg

Add sugar, water and corn syrup, then cook until caramel is amber or the color of iced tea.

¿) Â)withToa spoon, Add butter, salt and vanilla test the color of the caramel, and stir with a whisk until butter melts. drop a small amount on a white plate.

|3|

Visit www.schnuckscooks.com

for Schnucks Cooks videos, recipes, locations, our monthly newsletter and more!

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2011

EASY EATS

chocolaTE foR dinnER RECIPE bY Nathaniel Bonner

Pork tenderloin is a great midweek dish because it takes so little time to prepare. The pan sauce in this recipe – with cherry, port and chocolate ﬂavors – perfectly complements the pork and brings a unique element to the dish. be sure to add the recipe to your ﬁle for a quick weeknight meal or an impressive party dish.

1½ cups ½ cup ½ cup ½ cup ½ tsp 1/8 tsp 1 Tbsp 1

|1|

1 Tbsp 1 to 2 pinches 1/8 tsp 1/8 tsp 1 oz

tawny port dried tart cherries dried sweet cherries aged balsamic vinegar sugar salt grape seed oil 1½-lb pork tenderloin salt and freshly ground black pepper ice-cold unsalted butter freshly ground black pepper cinnamon ground cloves dark chocolate, more than 60 percent cocoa pea tendrils, for garnish

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 350ºF. | 1 | In a medium saucepan, combine port,

cherries, balsamic vinegar, sugar and salt. bring to a low boil, then lower heat to a simmer and reduce by half, stirring occasionally.

minutes. Remove the pan from oven, put the tenderloin on a platter and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a heavy-bottomed pan, heat grape seed oil over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Season pork with salt and pepper, and add pork to the pan. | 2 | brown tenderloin on all sides, about 1½ to 3 minutes per side. You’ll need to turn the tenderloin 3 times to sear it completely.

purée it until smooth in a blender or with an immersion blender. If you used a blender, add the sauce back to the pan. Reheat. Remove from heat, and stir in the butter. Add remaining spices and chocolate, and stir until completely incorporated.

Place the pan in the oven, and cook the pork to an internal temperature of 150ºF to 155ºF, about 8 to 12

| 3 | Once the pan sauce has reduced,

Spoon sauce onto a plate. Cut the tenderloin into 1½- to 2-inch slices on the diagonal, and arrange slices on top of sauce. Garnish with pea tendrils and serve.

|2|

CHEF’S

Trimming The Tenderloin: It’s necessary to inspect the tenderloin and trim any silverskin (elastin) to ensure an even texture throughout the meat. If left on, the silverskin becomes chewy and rubbery. reducing The sauce: It’s important to keep any gastrique (balsamic reduction) thin when warm, as it will set up and become thick upon cooling.

check iT ouT! |3|

FeaSt extra

resTing The meaT: All your meat-preparation eﬀorts will be lost if the meat doesn’t go through a proper resting phase. During the cooking process, all of the juices and fats have been forced into the center of the protein, and they create pressure. When you cut into the meat, that pressure is released, and the juices are lost on the platter. Letting meat rest allows the essential juices to be re-absorbed. As a result, when the meat is sliced, no juices will run, and the product will stay moist and tender all the way through.

Check out feastsTl.com for a step-by-step slideshow on making this month’s dish.

PHOTOGRAPHY bY Jennifer Silverberg

ALL-NEW EXHIBITION 42

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2011

JOIN US! rsVP: schnuckscooks.com or ..

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B41

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www.hometown-hearing.com

Plan Your Holiday Parties Now! The Bissell Mansion Restaurant and Murder Mystery Dinner Theatre has made it easy for you and your friends or family to "Get Away With Murder" anytime you like.

Arrange for a private interactive comedy mystery that will be presented with a delicious four course dinner for you and at least 20 of your friends, family or co-workers.

only 5 minutes from downtown

The perfect event for your next company function or family affair.

“Stairway to Heaven”

4426 Randall Pl. • St. Louis www.bissellmansion.com

Call For Details 314-533-9830

Celebrate Oktoberfest Season Taste and discover authentic German dishes and traditional family recipes reminiscent of "Bavaria". Celebrate your heritage, a special Authentic German occasion, or just sit back and relax in a unique atmosphere. Cuisine, Bier, Wine, Specialty Bier: Spaten Oktoberfest, Optimator, Celebrator, Bajuvator, Gemütlichkeit! Warsteiner, Paulaner, Franziskaner, Tucher, Bitburger, Weihenstephaner... "Bier Flights" and "Towers" available. +75" /6:7- "5"!% '.* & ,89 3086!*0% ) (087$ :"087.; ) 4!$6#: 2"1-$/"

Tues-Fri 11-2 & 5-9, Sat & Sun 5-9 &1&. -23;48"% 9<' / -6>2$:<6=+ 70 ,&)(.,,(1))1 / !$"5"!<$#*82'2$5

All You Can Eat Buffet - Over 150 Items

The Largest International Buffet & Grill in Missouri Royal Buffet offers a wide variety of authentic Asian style, and American food. You may choose from either a buffet, which consists of over 150 items or from a regular menu. We also have a habachi grill and all you can eat sushi bar. We have an extensive menu to choose from. You will not go away hungry!! We also provide catering for any occasion. Come to Royal Buffet for an excellent dining experience.

Present this ad to get 10% off buffet. Not valid for children or on a holiday. Not including drinks, one coupon per table. Not valid with other offers.

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Fine Dining You deserve a little get away…

The Barrel Room Grill and Steakhouse is the latest addition to the Hidden Lake Winery experience. It is joining the picturesque Majestic Falls reception site, the elegant Champagne Hall, and the popular Silent Forest Retreat cabins. Featuring full-service fine dining, the Barrel Room adds yet another touch to the mystical atmosphere that 10580 Wellen Road draws guests to this rustic paradise. The Barrel Aviston, Il 62216 Room’s menu features a delightful array of lunch 618-228-9111 and dinner selections served with views of lovely wooded surroundings. www.HiddenLakeWinery.com Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2011

LUNCH

OUTSIDE THE BOX

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2011

When I was a kid, my favorite lunch box was purple, metal and celebrated the boy band du jour: The Osmonds. I loved that lunch box, and what I loved most was when my mom packed it with a peanut butter and banana sandwich, potato chips and a Hostess cupcake. That was my idea of a dream lunch. We asked the kids of some of St. Louisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; most experienced culinarians to task their parents with creating their dream lunches. They jumped at the opportunity to press mom and dad into action to orchestrate fabulous lunchtime creations. The kids brought diďŹ&#x20AC;erent sensibilities to the table; the chefs, they brought the goods.

WrITTen by Amy

H. Burdge |

PHOTOgraPHy by Jennifer

Silverberg

SHOT On LOcaTIOn aT academy Of THe Sacred HearT

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2011

LOrenzO ScHenArdi, 8

Lorenzo has an elevated palate. He knows food. He loves food. In fact, he ate his way across the globe this summer when he visited Chicago, New York City and Italy. When his dad, Fabrizio Schenardi, executive chef at The Four Seasons’ Cielo Restaurant, told him about the project, Lorenzo initially made a pitch for ice cream and chocolate cookies, but that turned out to be a brief ﬂirtation with an idea we all have from time to time. After a little further brainstorming, father and son settled on some lunchbox options that were a bit more nutritious but exciting nonetheless.

LOrenzO’S LuncH #1: SuSHi + Fruit-On-A-Stick witH HOneY-BLueBerrY YOgurt

Sushi By Fabrizio Schenardi, Cielo restaurant

Lorenzo helped make both the rolls, with non-traditional ham, carrot and cucumber in one and spicy crabmeat and cucumber in the other. He loves to use the mandoline to julienne the vegetables and ham. Dad’s close eye and guiding hand guard against potential cuts. Yield | 4 to 6 rolls | 2 cups 2¼ cups ½ cup 1 pkg 12 strips 12 strips 24 strips ¼ cup

sushi rice, washed at least 4 times or until rice is clear water rice wine vinegar nori julienned ham, divided julienned carrot, divided julienned cucumber, divided crab meat sriracha, to taste mayonnaise, to taste (optional) soy sauce

| Preparation | Bring rice and water to a boil in a medium sauce pan. reduce heat to low and cook until all water is absorbed, about 45 minutes. When rice is done, spoon onto a parchment-lined baking sheet and pour on rice wine vinegar. stir rice by cutting through with a wooden spoon and turning it over, careful not to press down on the rice. Fan the rice until cool to prevent overcooking. Place 1 sheet of nori on a sushi mat. Wet your hands with water and spread rice on the lower half of the nori, taking the rice all the way to the edges of the sheet. For Ham, Carrot and Cucumber Rolls: Place 2 to 3 strips each ham, carrot and cucumber across the centerline of the rice and roll tightly. Cut roll into 6 pieces, and serve with soy sauce for dipping.

Fruit-On-A-Stick with Honey-Blueberry Yogurt By Fabrizio Schenardi, Cielo restaurant

Lorenzo made the yogurt dipping sauce himself. This is a great dish with which kids can lend a helping hand.

¼ cup ½ cup 2 Tbsp

strawberries, grapes and pineapple chunks blueberries plain yogurt honey

| Preparation | Cut strawberries, grapes and For Spicy Crab and Cucumber Rolls: Mix crab meat with sriracha to taste. add a bit of mayo if you like it creamy. Place 2 to 3 cucumber strips and crab salad across the centerline of the rice and roll tightly. Cut roll into 6 pieces, and serve with soy sauce for dipping.

pineapple chunks into bite-sized pieces and place on bamboo skewers. Halve blueberries and mix with yogurt and honey. serve as dipping sauce for the fruit.

loreNzo’S luNCh #2: PaSta Salad + BaNaNa-Nutella CrêPeS

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Pasta Salad By Fabrizio Schenardi, Cielo restaurant

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dried tri-color fusilli pasta red bell peppers fresh green beans chicken breast salt and freshly ground black pepper bacon, cooked and crumbled green Sicilian and kalamata olives, quartered sundried tomatoes, drained and julienned fresh basil leaves, julienned extra-virgin olive oil balsamic vinegar

| Preparation | Boil pasta over high heat until al dente, about 8 minutes. Drain and set aside to cool. roast red peppers under the broiler or over an open flame, turning often, until skin is blistered. Place in a brown paper bag and let cool. remove peppers from bag, peel off skins, remove seeds and julienne the flesh. set aside. Bring a large pot full of water to a boil. Blanche the green beans by placing them in the boiling water, then submerging them in cold water to stop the cooking process. remove from cold water and cut into bite-sized pieces. set aside. Brush chicken breast with a light coating of olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Grill until cooked through. let cool, and then cut into cubes.

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Much has changed in the 20 years since the bold step of Tom Schlafly and opening a brewery on the King of Beer’s Dan Kopman took says people told him he was out home turf. Schlafly of his mind for likened the move doing such a thing to starting a new – even he religion in Mecca. in more than a half-doze Now that his beer n states (and available is sold feat), it’s hard to at Busch Stadium question Schlafly’s – no small success. Th started in 1991 paved The brewery he the and Kopman way for St. Louis’ bee standard by which beer resurgence other craft breweries and set the here ar are measured. (Another change since flock to the Schlafly 1991: beer prices. That’s why beer drinkers in the know Tap Room on the brewery day after Christma wery throws itself s. Every a birthday ery Dec. 26, the rthday party with they were in 1991 all ll be beer b eer prices rolled – about bout $3 a pint.) back to what One thing that hasn’t changed is the misconce craft brewers are concept ption tion that Schlafly waging and other like A-B and MillerCo a David-vs.-Goliath ath battle tle against the Big ors. That story line batt Breweries takeover of A-B. e heated up again Almost overnight after InBev’s 2008 , the title of St. Louis’ largest locally owned makers off Schlafly beer had the new brewery.

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ST. LOUIS’ BEER CULTURE • PAST, PRESENT & FUTURE TURE The Post-Dispatch’s resident “beer guy” Evan Benn, wraps up the city’s long and storied beer history in this new book. From the beginnings of major manufacturers such as Anheuser-Busch, Falstaff and Lemp, through Prohibition and the passage of the 21 amendment, the shake-up of the InBev takeover and the current microbrewery explosion, Brew in the Lou offers a complete history along with suggestions for great meal and beer pairings. st

$19.95

FIND MORE ST. LOUIS BOOKS ONLINE www.thepost-dispatchstore.com | 24/7

in a large mixing bowl, combine pasta, roasted red peppers, green beans, chicken, bacon, olives, sundried tomatoes and basil. in a small mixing bowl, whisk together olive oil and balsamic vinegar. season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour dressing over pasta salad and toss to combine. refrigerate until cool.

(877) 767-8785 (TOLL-FREE) MON. - FRI. 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE TAX, SHIPPING NOR HANDLING.

Banana-Nutella Crêpes By Fabrizio Schenardi, Cielo restaurant

This recipe is easily altered to create diﬀerent crêpes. Simply add spices or lemon zest to the batter, and ﬁll with desired spreads, cheeses, fruits, veggies or meats. Yield | eight 9-inch crêpes | 3 1/3 cup 2 cups 1 dash 1 jar 4

eggs all-purpose ﬂour milk vanilla extract canola oil nutella bananas, divided confectioners’ sugar

| Preparation | in a large mixing bowl, whisk together eggs and ﬂour until smooth. slowly add milk, while whisking, and then vanilla. if desired, batter can be made ahead and refrigerated for 2 to 3 days. Coat a nonstick pan with canola oil and heat to medium. ladle the batter onto the pan in a paper-thin layer. Cook until batter begins to bubble and rise, about 1 to 2 minutes, and then ﬂip. Cook an additional 1 to 2 minutes. repeat until batter is gone, and let crêpes cool. on each crêpe, spread a thin layer of nutella. Cut ½ a banana into thin slices and arrange on the crêpe. Fold in half, then in quarter. Dust with sugar and serve. *To make the crêpe into a roll (which can be easier for kids to handle), spread with nutella, then place a whole banana in the middle of the crêpe and roll tightly. Cut into 6 bite-sized pieces. Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2011

ELLiE CrafT, 5½

OLivE CrafT, 3

When your dad is Gerard Craft, chef and partner of Niche, Brasserie by Niche, Taste Bar and the highly anticipated Pasteria by Niche on the way, you could probably ask for – and get – just about anything. So it’s a bit ironic that when tasked with imagining her dream lunch, Ellie’s request was for Lunchables. To keep both girls engaged – from concept to delivery – Dad-Chef decided on gourmet takes on the classics. The “lunchable” menu included pork shoulder (yes, he cooked it for 14 hours) with Marcoot Jersey Creamery cheese and crackers. Carrots with yogurt ranch dressing rounded out the tray of goodies. More gourmet classics followed with a fluffer nutter sandwich made with soy butter and homemade fluff accompanied by made-from-scratch peaches-bythe-foot. Ellie’s inspiration was brilliant, and her dad was able to elevate beloved lunchbox fare into a delectable dream come true.

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2011

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The Newest Winery in Augusta.

Noboleis Vineyards

Family owned, Noboleis Vineyards, begins it's ﬁrst full season offering a full line of Estategrown, award-winning Missouri wines. Come join us for lunch and take in the views of the rolling vineyards surrounding the winery.

100 hemsath rd. augusta mo 63332 Open daily until 5pm Music on weekends May-October 636.482.4500

visit our website to check out upcoming events www.noboleisvineyards.com

Broadway. Family style.

September 27 - October 9 • Fabulous Fox Theatre ®

Tickets: The Fox Box Office • 314-534-1111 • MetroTix.com www.TheAddamsFamilyMusical.com Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2011

ELLiE’S & OLivE’S LunchabLES: carrOTS wiTh YOgurT ranch DrESSing + crackEr SnackErS -Or- FLuFFEr nuTTEr SanDwich + PEach FruiT bY ThE FOOT

STarTEr carrots with Yogurt ranch Dressing By Gerard Craft, craft restaurants ltd.

1 cup ¼ cup ½ cup ½ tsp ½ tsp 1 tsp 1 tsp 1 tsp 1 tsp

aïoli buttermilk plain Greek yogurt onion powder garlic powder fresh lemon juice minced chives minced ﬂat-leaf parsley minced mint kosher salt raw baby carrots, peeled

| Preparation | Place aïoli in a large bowl. Whisk in buttermilk, followed by yogurt through salt. If the dressing is too thick, add a little buttermilk to thin it out. serve with carrots.

Main Lunch #1 Fluffer nutter Sandwich By Gerard Craft, craft restaurants ltd.

¼ cup 1 cup 1 cup 2 ½ tsp ¼ tsp

water corn syrup sugar egg whites vanilla extract cream of tartar bread slices soy butter

| Preparation | In a saucepan, heat water, sugar and syrup to 235°f. Meanwhile, in a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip egg whites, vanilla and cream of tartar to soft peaks. Once sugar is at temperature, slowly pour into the whites while the whisk is moving at medium speed. Whip mixture until it is cool. cut small rounds from the bread of your choice using a cookie cutter and pipe on some soy butter (or peanut butter if your kid can have it). Pipe on a little marshmallow fluff and, if you want, you can blow torch the top. 52

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2011

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Pork Shoulder with Cheese and Crackers By Gerard Craft, craft restaurants ltd.

1 cup 1 cup 16 2 cloves 1 1 block

salt sugar thyme sprigs garlic, crushed boneless pork shoulder Marcoot Jersey Creamery Cheddar crackers

| Preparation | combine salt, sugar, thyme and garlic, and rub liberally all over the shoulder (you don’t need to use all of it but be sure to create a thick coating). let sit over night. the next day, cold smoke the shoulder for 2 hours. cook at 150°f for 14 hours. remove from oven, wrap in plastic wrap and press under weight. Once cooled down and set, slice into 3-ounce cube portions. served sliced thin and cold with cheese and crackers.

DESSERT Peach Fruit by the Foot By Gerard Craft, craft restaurants ltd.

3 5 Tbsp

peaches, pits removed simple syrup

| Preparation | Purée peaches and syrup in a blender until very smooth. Pour some of the liquid onto a piece of acetate and spread into an even layer. Place in food dehydrator at 125°f and dry until it has the consistency of a fruit roll up. cut 1-inch by 12-inch strips of parchment (or however long you want them to be). cut slightly skinnier strips of the fruit and lay them on the paper very carefully. roll up to look like tape.

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Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2011

check it out!

Feast extra

HeaLTHy everyday OpTiOnS Serving your child their fantasy school lunch isn’t an everyday possibility. Instead, parents dream of inciting excitement with whole grains and whole foods (and a whole lot of ‘em). We found four kids whose idea of a great lunch is actually most parents’ fantasies.

Pictured from left to right:

aidan OwenS, 7 Liam OwenS, 10 Jack rieS, 11 TayLOr rieS, 15 This high-energy crew of cousins pack a pretty ﬁerce lunchbox. Their moms are St. Louis food media mavens, Margaret and Bridget Kelly (aka, The Kelly Twins, who currently produce Twice Baked, a cooking show on bluehighwaystv.com), and the kids have absorbed their moms’ interest in and passion for healthy eating. Their lunchtime choices reﬂect that practical wholesomeness. Whole grain breads take center stage. Fresh fruits and vegetables are packed with every lunch. High-quality lunch meats, granola bars and juices made with whole fruits are thoughtfully included. From homemade quesadillas and bagel sandwiches to fresh fruit smoothies and an applesand-oats dessert, each lunch is designed to energize and provide steady going through the day.

HOw dO yOu geT kidS TO aSk fOr THiS kind Of LuncH? head to feastStL.com to read our Q&A with the kelly twins and get recipes for some of the cousins’ favorite healthy lunchtime treats.

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2011

Fine Dining

A Fine dining experience at a modest price with a welcoming atmosphere for any occasion.

SEASONS

Cutting edge seasonal foods; superior seafood and fresh fish and meat selections; soups, salads, and an assortment of desserts. ALL tailored to any taste.

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Fried chicken with mashed potatoes and ¥¥¥‚@_b@CD@bE_A[abDa"[@[D_‚aCE country milk gravy are featured on Sunday nights Lunch Hours: Tuesday-Friday 11am-3pm and SLOW roasted prime rib dinner specials Dinner Hours: Tuesday-Thursday 5pm-9pm Friday & Saturday 5pm-10pm are offered every Saturday night. Be our friend Sunday: Sunday 4pm-9pm

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Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2011

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For 20 years, BoB MephaM wore down the road between Bayou Lafourche, in Louisiana, and University City. one man. one truck. packed to the gills (if you’ll pardon the pun) with fish. he was a piscine prophet attempting to spread the gospel of Gulf seafood to a city with an appetite for meatless meals that didn’t extend much past Lenten obligations. When Mepham opened Bob’s seafood’s outdoor stalls in 1978 in The Loop, he was one of only a few fish merchants in the area. “your stores had very little ... when we were outside, in The Loop, there were very few places selling fish here,” he recalls. “We had two stalls, and there were two counters there.

“It was all open air. We sold on Saturday, only out of ice chests. I got back with the truck about 6 or 7 Saturday morning and sold all day, ‘til we were out of seafood and ready for a few days off.” But like any good evangelist, Mepham remained undaunted. Each week, he would dutifully drive down to Bayou Lafourche and, from a dock or boat, hand-pick the selections he wanted to sell back home. As more people discovered the once-a-week-wonder fish merchant, appetites for seafood increased. Mepham’s gospel spread, and his business grew. In 1988, Bob’s Seafood moved indoors, into a 900-square-foot store steps away from the original stalls. Mepham also rented freezer space in Maplewood so his company could better cater to area restaurants. Soon after, Mepham was no longer going to the fish; the fish were coming to him. St. Louis had converted. And Bob’s Seafood needed a much bigger sanctuary. “It was a cryin’ need for more space” that brought Mepham to the company’s current location, a 12,000-square-foot shop on Olive Boulevard, just a block east of I-170. The benefits for customers and staff of finally having walk-in freezers and coolers on-site, a spacious cutting room for processing fish, and a greatly expanded retail area readily outweigh any nostalgia for the prior digs. “We don’t see nearly as many bizarre-looking people as we used to,” laughs Mepham. “And if we want to go out to lunch, we can’t just walk across the street or down the block. We have to get in the car. We were in The Loop for a long time, and we kind of miss it a bit now and then. But the new place is great; it was the right move to make.” These days, a fleet of Bob’s Seafood trucks whizzes to the airport, the store and almost 200 client restaurants and kitchens – in contrast to the days of Mepham’s solitary runs to the bayou. Although the scale of the company has changed considerably over 33 years, the quality of the company’s seafood remains the same. Whether he’s standing on docks, pointing out picks from justarrived fishing boats, or placing orders with distributors worldwide, Mepham ensures only the best of the catch is delivered to St. Louis tables. His dedication to excellence has led to lasting partnerships. “Bob’s Seafood and I have been working together since 1989. It was the first truly consistent local seafood supplier I could find,” says executive chef Lou Rook III of Annie Gunn’s and the Smokehouse Market. “Bob built his business on freshness, quality and personalized service. It could be Viking Village scallops, golden tilefish or canyon run tuna; the quality of the seafood is always the best or Bob’s will not offer it.” And, on any given day, Bob’s Seafood offers a lot. On the retail side of the store, lobsters sleepily bobble about in a large, glass-walled tank. Display cases run nearly the length of the room, starting with mussels and tins of lump

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Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2011

crab meat then switching to increasingly more colorful, glossier cuts of trout, shark, salmon and tuna. A handful of young men orbit around behind the counter, taking orders and filling bags with ice or lemons. Barb Mepham zips between them, instinctively finding that one puzzled customer and providing friendly, fishy wisdom. “She’s so much better at dealing with people than I am,” says her husband. “She’s so good at it. This is what I do,” he says, gesturing toward the many stacks of receipts, invoices and other papers piled on his desk. “I try to keep the bills paid.” Of course, he’s also hard at work ordering the seafood that earns consistent kudos from local chefs and savvy home cooks for his shop’s extensive selection and the exceptional quality of its seafood. “I’ve used Bob’s since I was at An American Place, so going on six years,” says Josh Galliano, executive chef at Monarch Restaurant and Southern Bistro. “I always get Gulf crab from Bob’s. Everyone else usually carries pasteurized and canned crab, and that equals tasteless. Bob’s stocks Gulf blue crab meat, and they actually know what I mean by ‘gumbo crabs’.’ ”

From Mepham’s perspective, it’s his customers who have been steadily raising the bar. “Everyone’s gotten more sophisticated,” he explains. “When we first started, people were happy to get some salmon. Now, people are much more knowledgeable about food. They want to know what river [the salmon] came out of, and when and who caught it, and what school it went to.” That’s the kind of knowledge Anne Cori seeks when she invites students to Mepham’s shop as part of a Kitchen Conservatory class on fish and seafood. Only about half of her students are aware of Bob’s Seafood before the class; she takes them there so they can expand their familiarity with the many available varieties of fish and shellfish.

Cori’s association with Mepham is two decades old. The first class she led at Kitchen Conservatory was in 1991 as a substitute teacher; Mepham was supposed to lead the class on fish, but asked Cori to fill in at the last moment. Now owner and president of Kitchen Conservatory, Cori credits Mepham’s innocuous request with getting her where she is today. If Mepham has a request of his own, it’s that customers use common sense when they pick fish. “There are a lot of people that think if they eat just right they’re gonna get out of this world alive,” he chuckles. So Mepham imparts some wisdom to Cori’s students.

“This class is to demystify ﬁsh and shellﬁsh for the customer … to learn how to cook things other than salmon and shrimp,” Cori says.

“We meet at Bob’s, and we go through what’s in the case,” says Cori. “Then we get to go back in the cutting room, and Bob usually will give them a presentation on what’s ‘on his mind today’ in the world of ﬁsh.”

“Bob’s, because they’re both wholesale and retail, is wonderful for that. They get a bigger variety of ﬁsh than what’s available at the supermarkets. I mean, I don’t think I’ve ever seen escolar in the supermarket. But Bob’s usually has escolar.”

Mepham is quick to endorse the various farm-raised ﬁsh he oﬀers. While his farm-raised selection comes from all over the world, he says his personal favorites are the ruby, golden and rainbow trout farmed in the Snake River Valley of Idaho.

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“That [farmed] trout is as good as any you’re going to eat,” he says. “Maybe, there’s some stream some place that has brook trout that have just a little bit better flavor, but I don’t know where it is, and I don’t have time to go fish in it.” That’s not to say Mepham downplays wild seafood. He calls Copper River king salmon “the very best of everything.” But he understands that given its price, it’s not for everyone. Instead, he advises customers to get the most out of what they can reasonably afford. “The good, Scottish farm-raised salmon is probably 95 percent as good [as wild salmon]. But if you want that extra 5 percent, you’ll start paying for it. It’s like a $250 bottle of wine against a really good $12 bottle of wine. They’re still both so far ahead of Boone’s Farm, you know?” That kind of attention to customer service – ensuring that good value and good quality go hand in hand – has been paramount in developing the great word-of-mouth advertising Bob’s Seafood enjoys. Satisfied customers spread the word to co-workers, friends and family. Katie Lee’s association with Bob’s Seafood began at her aunt Zoe Robinson’s pan-Asian restaurant, Bobo Noodle House. When Lee opened Katie’s Pizzeria in Richmond Heights in 2008, Bob’s Seafood was the obvious source for seafood. “They give me such really good service, even if we order in the afternoon – especially if we order in the afternoon,” Lee says. “I get lobster, tuna, shrimp, mussels and the head-on langostinos,” Lee reels off. “The quality has always been wonderful.” Orders from Bob’s Seafood end up all over Lee’s menu, from a Tuscan grilled shrimp salad with clementines to a smoked-salmon pizza. “Everything I have ever tried to do is to be innovative and progressive, to keep our food on the cutting edge. For the last 22 years, Bob’s Seafood has been a major part of it,” says Rook, who names Mepham’s shop as one of the sources for the Mexican white shrimp used exclusively in Annie Gunn’s famous smoked shrimp. “I know that Bob and [manager] Phil [Nekic] are always out there looking for something on the edge for Annie’s. You have to have great relationships like that to succeed.” The success Mepham has enjoyed is also evident in St. Louis’ gradual transformation from a city that could barely muster crab Rangoon to a place where salmon pizza and ceviche seem right at home on a menu. His lightly cynical wit notwithstanding, Mepham seems genuinely pleased at the city’s evolution. Ironically, the seafood evangelist admits to a personal conversion, himself. “Before I got into this business, I would always eat fish when I went to a restaurant,” he grins. “Now, we take so much [fish] home and cook it that when we go out ... I want a beefsteak.”

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2011

Penne Ala Salute

1 - 28 oz. can peeled Italian style pear tomatoes 3 cloves garlic 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon black pepper 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil ¼ cup fresh basil 2 cups broccoli florets

½ cup sliced sun-dried tomatoes 1 cup sliced mushrooms ¼ cup grated Asiago cheese or Romano cheese 4 cups cooked penne pasta cooked al dente (1/2 lb. uncooked pasta)

In a food processor, mince garlic, olive oil and salt & pepper together for one minute. Cut Italian style tomatoes into small pieces (about 1” cubes), reserve some liquid. In a bowl combine garlic & olive oil mixture with cut tomatoes, add chopped fresh basil. Set aside. Place pasta, broccoli, mushrooms and sun dried tomatoes in a one-gallon pot of rapidly boiling salt water. When water boils again, drain. Toss pasta together with sauce mixture in a large bowl. Serve immediately. Sprinkle pasta with grated Asiago cheese, fresh basil and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil. Makes 4 servings.

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SEPTEMBER 2011

Smoked Tuna with Red Pepper Ketchup

Tuna Niçoise Salad

By Anne Cori, Kitchen conservatory

Serves | 1 |

By KAtie Lee, Katie’s Pizzeria

This recipe can accommodate any cut, weight or variety of tuna you prefer. As Cori says, “Whatever looks best to you at Bob’s!” Larger cuts will require longer smoking times. The ketchup recipe yields 1½ cups. 4 ¾ cup ½ cup ½ tsp 1 cup 1 1 Tbsp

red bell peppers chopped onion red wine vinegar salt brown sugar tuna ﬁllet, preferred weight and cut salt and freshly ground black pepper smoking dust

burnt. Place in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let cool, about 20 minutes. Peel the skin. cut oﬀ the pulp of the peppers and remove the ribs and seeds. Place peppers in a saucepan with the onion, vinegar, salt and brown sugar. Bring to a boil. simmer until thickened, about 20 minutes. Purée in a food processor or blender. set aside. season tuna with salt and pepper, and place in a stovetop smoker with smoking dust in the bottom. insert a probe thermometer in the ﬁsh to monitor the temperature. heat on high until wisps of smoke appear, and then reduce heat to low. smoke tuna until the internal temperature is 120ºF while keeping the oven temperature of the smoking box below 200ºF. remove, slice and serve with the ketchup.

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1 part 2 parts 1 part

extra-virgin olive oil fresh lemon juice capers salt and freshly ground black pepper

SALAd

| Preparation | Place peppers on a burner and cook until

FALL SAVINGS EVENT

CAper VinAigrette

4 8-10 2 handfuls 1 1 handful 3

6-oz fillet ahi tuna extra-virgin olive oil lemon juice salt and freshly ground black pepper fingerling potatoes, halved green beans mixed field greens hard-boiled egg, quartered niçoise olives caper berries

| Preparation – Caper Vinaigrette | in a food processor, blend ingredients. season to taste with salt and pepper. | Preparation – Salad | Preheat oven to 400ºF. Brush tuna with oil and lemon juice, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Grill to rare and slice ¼-inch thick. toss potatoes with olive oil and salt and roast until caramelized. repeat to roast beans. on a plate, make a bed of mixed ﬁeld greens. Lay the ingredients over the greens in sections, like a pie chart: sliced tuna, potatoes, green beans, egg and niçoise olives. top with caper berries and drizzle with caper vinaigrette.

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Lobster Pizza

Maple-Glazed Halibut

By KAtie Lee, Katie’s Pizzeria

By Anne Cori, Kitchen conservatory

Serves | 4 to 6 |

¼ cup ½ cup 1 Tbsp 1 1 ¼ tsp 1 tsp 6

1 lb 2 cloves ¼ cup 4 to 5 ½ lb 8 1 pinch

pizza dough extra-virgin olive oil garlic, chopped shredded fontina and parmesan cheeses basil leaves lobster meat, cut into chunks ramps pine nuts salt and freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation | Place pizza stone in oven and preheat to 500ºF. roll out pizza dough into a 12-inch disc. Brush dough generously with oil. sprinkle evenly with chopped garlic and cheeses. Place basil leaves, green side up, on the pizza. top with generous chunks of lobster. Place ramps on the pizza in a pinwheel pattern and sprinkle with pine nuts. season to taste with salt and pepper and bake for 10 to 12 minutes.

ﬁsh sauce maple sugar sesame oil shallot, minced 2-inch piece of ginger, grated freshly ground black pepper fresh thyme leaves halibut ﬁllets, each about 5 oz

| Preparation | Whisk together fish sauce, sugar, oil, shallot, ginger, pepper and thyme, and pour over the fish an hour before cooking. remove fish from the marinade. in a hot skillet, sear the halibut on one side. turn over, pour in the rest of the marinade and finish cooking on medium heat to desired doneness. Plate fish and serve with leftover glaze from the pan.

Post a picture to our Facebook page (facebook.com/feaststl) of your favorite seafood dish from a st. Louis-area restaurant and a few sentences on why you dig it, and you’ll be entered in a special drawing to win a gift certiﬁcate to a Kitchen conservatory cooking class.

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Inspired Food Culture

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FEAST’S FREE WEEKLY ENEWSLETTER

FEAST’s enewsletter keeps you updated on the latest culinary happenings in St. Louis. Sign up today at feastSTL.com, so you DON’T MISS OUT!

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Don’t miss your chance to interact directly with these professionals and mingle with your fellow food lovers.

Art of Food

Sat., Sept. 10, 6 to 10pm; Koken Art Factory, artoﬀoodstl.com

The area’s best chefs merge in one spot to celebrate local ingredients and beneﬁt Slow Food St. Louis.

IRONkids Cooking Competition Mon., Sept. 19, 5:30 to 9:30pm; Third Degree Glass Factory, discoveringoptions.org/Events.php

Five teams of kids, led by St. Louis’ finest chefs, square off in this event to benefit Discovering Options.

Green Homes & Great Health

Sat., Sept. 24, 9am to 5pm; Missouri Botanical Garden, greenhomesstlouis.org

Discover the many ways that plants, air, water, soil and energy sustain our homes, our health and our Earth.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Wed., Sept. 28, 6pm Schnucks Cooks Cooking School schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Get hands-on at our monthly Schnucks class and make the pork with port featured on page 42. PHOTO BY Jennifer Silverberg

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2011

CAN IT! WRITTEN BY Michael Sweeney

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Michael Feher

In the dark days before craft beer exploded in the United States, the aluminum can was solely the home of pale American lager. But as craft brewers have begun to grow, they’ve realized what the big guys have known for quite some time: The aluminum can may be the finest vessel for beer transportation. A can is lighter than glass and cheaper to ship. Cans are impervious to sunlight and keep your beer from getting skunky. A can cools down faster, which means you enjoy your beer quicker. And, best of all, cans go places bottles can’t. Aluminum cans bring craft beer to the beach, pool, golf course and that most sacred of outdoor adventures, the float trip. If you’re looking for something different for your next outing, here are some choices that will do the job well. (Cans are one of the hottest commodities in beer today and sell out quickly. Grab them while they’re available!)

O’Fallon Brewery’s O’Fallon Wheach Many times it almost seems like fruit is just a gimmick in beer. O’Fallon Brewery does a fantastic job of proving the proverb “less is more” in making a fruit beer. This wheat beer has just enough peach ﬂavor to enhance, rather than detract from, the overall experience. Enjoy a hot dog in one hand and a Wheach in the other. There are few better backyard barbecue experiences. AVAILABLE AT: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $15.99 (12-pack, 12-oz cans)

Ska Brewing Co.’s Modus Hoperandi When you crack open the can, the ﬁrst thing you’ll notice is that it almost explodes with a bountiful hop aroma that’s reminiscent of pine trees and grapefruit. Although there’s deﬁnitely a good amount of bitterness, Ska does a great job of providing just enough malt sweetness to balance it out. With the way this beer bursts forth, it’s almost a shame Ska didn’t call it Hop Hand Grenade instead. AVAILABLE AT: Whole Foods Market, multiple locations, wholefoodsmarket.com; $9.99 (6-pack, 12-oz cans)

Big Sky Brewing Co.’s Moose Drool Too often, you pour a beer from a can, and it’s pretty much the same straw color as every other canned beer. So it’s refreshing to see something like Big Sky Brewing Co.’s Moose Drool pour a luscious brown color. This brown beer looks heavy, but its low alcohol (4.2 percent abv) keeps it from being too ﬁlling. It’s very chocolatly, with a slight bit of roast that makes it perfect for those cooler September evenings. AVAILABLE AT: Friar Tuck, multiple locations, friartuck.com; $8.99 (6-pack, 12-oz cans)

Avery Brewing Co.’s Joe’s Premium American Pilsner Good things come to those who wait, and the wait for this beer was certainly worth it. Although Avery Brewing Co. has been canning some of its fantastic beer for a while, we weren’t able to get it in St. Louis until now. This pilsner is clean and very dry. But it’s deﬁnitely a beer where the earthy noble German hops are the star of the show. Joe’s Premium is certainly a bitter beer, but if that’s up your alley, it’s also quite sessionable at 4.7 percent abv. AVAILABLE AT: International Tap House, multiple locations, internationaltaphouse.com; $1.25 (12-oz can), $4 (bar price)

Robert Cain Brewery’s Cains Finest Bitter Don’t let the name fool you, Cains Finest Bitter is anything but bitter. Instead, you’ll be treated to a delightfully malty beer that’s extremely quaﬀable. Its low, 4 percent abv keeps the alcohol in check, which makes for a very sessionable beer. Being low in alcohol doesn’t mean it’s low in ﬂavor. Cains Finest Bitter is slightly sweet, with a nice bit of dried fruit in the aroma. AVAILABLE AT: 33 Wine Shop & Tasting Bar, 1913 Park Ave., Lafayette Square, 33wine.com; $1.73 (14.9-oz can)

Caldera Brewing Co.’s IPA Although the Pacific Northwest is one of the biggest brewing regions in the U.S., there aren’t a lot of Oregon beers available in Missouri. One sip of Caldera Brewing Co.’s IPA and you’ll quickly realize that the region is where we get all of these fantastically floral American hops. Its light body allows the hop flavor, reminiscent of apricots and grass, to be the star of the show. AVAILABLE AT: Lukas Liquor, 15921 Manchester Road, Ellisville, lukasliquorstl.com; $13.99 (6-pack, 12-oz cans)

Tallgrass Brewing Co.’s Halcyon Unﬁltered Wheat Being in Kansas, Tallgrass Brewing Co. knows a thing or two about wheat. This seasonal beer spotlights raw Kansas white wheat, which helps give the beer a light creaminess. With subtle fruitiness, including lemons and oranges, you can hold the lemon on this one. It’s the perfect beer after a long day in the sun. AVAILABLE AT: Randall’s Wine and Spirits, select locations, shoprandalls.com; $7.49 (6-pack, 12-oz cans)

IF YOU’RE GOING ON THAT LAST-CHANCE FISHING OR CAMPING TRIP OUTSIDE ST. LOUIS, BE ON THE LOOKOUT FOR THESE FANTASTIC REGIONAL CRAFT BEERS: Capital Brewery’s Supper Club (Wisconsin) Here’s a secret: Brewing lager beers is difficult. They’re timeconsuming, and since many of them are very light, they don’t hide flaws. Capital Brewery, out of Middleton, Wis., is one of the finest lager breweries in the world. Its signature Supper Club harkens back to the days when pale lager was brewed with all malt, which gives it a bit more body than your standard pale lager. Supper Club is a great beer if you’re looking to give craft beer a shot. AVAILABLE IN: Wisconsin, Minnesota, northern Illinois; capital-brewery.com

Southern Star Brewing Co.’s Bombshell Blonde (Texas) Blonde ales have been known to get a bad rap. Sure, they’re not as in your face as a smoked-whiskey-barrel-aged IPA. But sometimes you just want something to sit back and drink without thinking about it. Southern Star Brewing Co.’s blonde ale is an unpretentious beer with a pleasant grainy aroma and a subtle sweetness that comes from German Vienna malts. Bombshell Blonde proves that blonde beers don’t have to be boring. AVAILABLE IN: Alabama, northern Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Louisiana, Ohio, South Carolina, Texas; southernstarbrewery.com

Oskar Blues Brewery’s Ten FIDY Imperial Stout (Colorado) Black as night and very viscous, it’s no surprise how often this beer gets compared to motor oil. But this canned beer is no gimmick; it’s one of the best imperial stouts in the world. The velvety brew is very roasty, with slight hints of coﬀee and chocolate that meld beautifully with the creaminess of the beer. Although it would pair well with almost any chocolate dessert, it works perfectly as a dessert all on its own. AVAILABLE IN: Arizona, California, Colorado, Florida, Georgia, Maine, Maryland, Nevada, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Carolina, Tennessee, Texas, Virginia, Washington, Washington, D.C., Wisconsin; oskarblues.com

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phOTOgRAphY bY Wesley Law

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SEPTEMBER 2011

When you’re spending the final hazy days of the season on a gently rocking boat enjoying life’s simple pleasures, dinner duty doesn’t seem appealing. No worries. Beer in hand, you will feed the crew in style. Take a stab at a few of these easily composed dishes. The focus here is on bright flavor, light ingredients and as little effort as possible. If you’ve got a grill on deck with a side burner, you don’t even have to heat up the galley. Life is good.

Roasted-Pepper Bruschetta with Lemon Chèvre and Summer Savory There’s something seductive about a dish with a variety of contrasting textures and colors. This easy appetizer ﬂirts with the crunchy artisan bread, supple strips of roasted pepper (you can roast them before heading to lake to cut down on prep) and creamy chèvre. The rich colors of the peppers play against the yellow-ﬂecked white of the cheese and the verdant green of the summer savory. Best of all, the dish tastes really amazing. Serves | 6 to 8 | 1

3 8 oz 1

3 Tbsp

crusty artisan baguette, sliced on a diagonal ½-inch thick, 15-18 slices olive oil bell peppers (a variety of colors) chèvre, at room temperature lemon, zested and juiced kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste summer savory, leaves only

| Preparation | Toast or grill bread slices, making sure they get nice and crisp. After bread is toasted, brush one side with a bit of olive oil to help retain moisture. Roast the peppers under a broiler or on the grill until skins are charred. Place peppers into a paper bag for at least 15 minutes to allow the accumulated steam to help loosen the skins from the ﬂesh. When cool enough to handle, pull the charred skin from the peppers, discard the seeds and slice the peppers into ¼-inch strips. Set aside. In a small mixing bowl, add chèvre, lemon zest, 1 Tbsp lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix well, until cheese is spreadable. Add a touch of olive oil if the cheese is still too thick to spread. Just before serving, slather toasts with the chèvre , about 1 Tbsp per piece. Top with peppers. A few drops of olive oil, a grind of black pepper and a sprinkling of the summer savory complete this dish.

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SEPTEMBER 2011

Mahi-mahi Ceviche in Avocado Cups The essence of the dock party is simple elegance. The practicality is that it’s so damn hot you don’t really want to cook. Enter ceviche. Fresh fish is cubed, marinated and “cooked” in citrus juice and mixed with sweet onions, spicy peppers, vibrant herbs and crunchy vegetables. Bright summer flavors are served in a creamy halved avocado. Everything is ice cold and not a burner is ignited. Refreshing defined. Serves | 6 | 1 lb 4 2 Tbsp ½ 2 1

mahi-mahi or swordﬁsh, cut into ¼-inch cubes limes, juiced olive oil medium red onion, very thinly sliced serrano chiles, seeded and chopped ﬁne cucumber, seeded and cut into ¼-inch cubes

1 cup ½ cup 1 Tbsp ½ tsp ½ tsp 3 6 cups

peeled jicama, cut into ¼-inch cubes chopped cilantro, plus 2 Tbsp for garnish honey kosher salt freshly ground black pepper avocados ﬁnely julienned napa cabbage

| Preparation | About 3 hours before serving the ceviche, combine all ingredients except the avocado and cabbage, and mix well. Refrigerate immediately, and stir ingredients every 45 minutes or so to keep flavors blended. Just before serving, cut avocados in half, and remove the stones. To prevent the avocados from wobbling when you fill them, make a small cut on the skin side of each avocado parallel to the cut side. Arrange a cup or so of cabbage on six chilled plates. Nestle an avocado half on top, and fill with about ½ cup of ceviche. Sprinkle cups with remaining cilantro and serve.

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SEPTEMBER 2011

Mediterranean “Dock” Shrimp The summer has been filled with gut-busting barbecues, greasy backyard burgers and Flintstones-sized roasts. Oh yes, meatcentric overindulgence has its time and place. But here on the boat, you need to retain a sharp sense of wit and not fall prey to the swoon that often follows the carnal pleasure of stuffing a medium-rare porterhouse steak down your gullet. Grilling shrimp is quick (just a couple of minutes on each side) and easy (though you can make it seem as complicated as you wish). Shrimp are packed with flavor without a massive caloric content. So you can feed yourself a ton of these little morsels and still enjoy the illusion of gluttony. Full steam ahead! 76

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2011

Serves | 6 | 5 lbs

Gulf shrimp (the larger the better), shells on, deveined

¾ cup

olive oil

¼ cup

chopped garlic

1 Tbsp

Dijon-style mustard

large lemons, juiced

1 Tbsp

white wine vinegar

2 Tbsp

honey

1 Tbsp

freshly ground black pepper

2 tsp ¼ cup

kosher salt fresh oregano, plus 3 Tbsp for garnish vegetable oil

| Preparation | Butterﬂy the shrimp by cutting them in half lengthwise, being careful not to separate the halves. Press the shrimp ﬂat, and place in a baking dish shell side down. Refrigerate while making marinade.

Place remaining ingredients, except oregano for garnish and vegetable oil, into a blender, and purée for about 15 seconds. Pour over shrimp, and marinate for about 1 hour. Get your grill very hot. Lightly oil grates with a paper towel dipped in vegetable oil. Immediately place shrimp flesh side down on the grill perpendicular to the grates, so you get good grill marks on the flesh. Cooking time varies depending on the size of the shrimp. Look for the shells to turn pink as the shrimp cook. Once you have a good sear, about 2 to 3 minutes, turn the shrimp over and cook shell side down, 1 to 2 minutes. This will protect the flesh from direct heat while allowing maximum moisture retention. Remove the shrimp, garnish with oregano and serve family style on a large platter.

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Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2011

Cherry Tomato Couscous with Charred Corn and Zucchini Late summer cherry tomatoes, sweet corn and zucchini mixed with couscous can make a tasty bed for the grilled shrimp. Prepare this while the shrimp are marinating. It’s served slightly warm or at room temperature. Serves | 6 | 1 cup 2 Tbsp 1 tsp ¾ cup ¼ cup 2 Tbsp 1 lb 3 ears 2 ¼ tsp

chicken broth ground coriander kosher salt, divided couscous olive oil red wine vinegar cherry tomatoes, halved corn, grilled and kernels sliced off the cob small zucchini, grilled and cubed freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation | In a saucepan, bring chicken broth to a boil. Stir in coriander, ½ tsp salt and couscous. Remove from heat. Cover and let stand for 5 minutes. Fluﬀ with a fork and keep covered. Before serving, toss couscous mixture with olive oil, vinegar, tomatoes, corn, zucchini, remaining salt and pepper.

Toasted Pound Cake with Fresh Summer Berries and Rebecca Sauce First of all, you’re correct. Chocolate is the king of all desserts. No arguments here. However, when the heat index reaches your (real) golf score, then perhaps chocolate loses some of its appeal. If the humidity clings and the late summer sun swelters, look to cool summer berries to provide sweet relief. Serves | 6 | 1 pint 1 pint 1 pint 1 quart 1 Tbsp 8 oz ¼ cup ¼ cup 1

raspberries blackberries blueberries strawberries, sliced in half sugar sour cream brown sugar dark rum Entenmanns pound cake, cut into 1-inch slices mint leaves, for garnish

| Preparation | Wash berries and mix together. Add sugar, and let macerate for at least 30 minutes. In a small bowl, mix sour cream, brown sugar and rum until blended. Let sit for 30 minutes, and then stir well before serving.

Check the Let’s Eat section of the Post-Dispatch every Wed.in September for more great party recipes! 78

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SEPTEMBER 2011

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Toast pound cake in toaster or under a broiler until lightly browned. Top each serving with 1 cup berry mixture, and drizzle on Rebecca sauce. Garnish with fresh mint and serve immediately.

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for more information Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2011

pull up a chair

Three designers pick simple bar tables to let this special stool shine:

FOlEY BarSTOll written by Erin Callier

As the summer draws to a close, we look at the delicate, laser-cut detailing of the Foley Barstool as a novel nod to the forthcoming fall foliage. Fall is always too brief, but our aﬀection for this nature-inspired, yet still modern, silhouette will last and last. $400; Atom, atom-designs.com OSLO BAR TABLE

“the chic Oslo bar table is a perfect pair for the elegant Foley barstool. the airiness of the Oslo’s tempered-glass top allows the stool’s delicate, laser-cut design to stand on its own as a sculptural element. the clean, sleek lines of the table’s chrome base add just enough weight to keep the pairing grounded. everyday glamour deﬁned.”

Melanie Holden, Holden Design Group $269; zgallerie.com

CLOSE ME TABLE

“the Close Me table is an elegant complement to the Foley barstool. the simple, straight lines and warm wood add texture, allowing the curvy design and detailing of the stool to play oﬀ one another. there is certainly a unique design quality to this pairing.”

David Blakely, Niche Home Furnishings $3,644; Niche Home Furnishings, 300 N. Broadway, Downtown, nichestl.com

YOYO TABLE

“the simplicity and modern lines of the yoyo table coordinate nicely with the modern legs and ﬁnish of the Foley barstool. A black, solid surface top would create a stage to spotlight the intricate laser-cut leaf pattern on the back of the stool. i also think the pneumatic lift feature for adjusting the table height adds a fun and functional design detail.”

Debra Kuhn, The Design Source Ltd. Contact The Design Source Ltd. for table-top variations and pricing, thedesignsourceltd.com

feastSTl.com

SEPTEMBER 2011

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