September 2013 Feast Magazine

eco eats in st. charles

back of the house to butcher shop

building a better STL

PRASINO, PLEASE

CHRIS BOLYARD

GREEN DESIGN

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

feastSTL.com | SEPTEMBER 2013 | FREE

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Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2013

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Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

SEPTEMBER 2013

from the staff

| 10 |

from the PUBLISHER

Choosing your path.

| 12 | feaststl.com

What’s online this month.

| 14 | FEAST FAVES

Our staff and contributors share inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis.

COLUMNS

| 26 | One on One

pure. natural.

Designer Jenny B shares

how she applies her artistic

magic to restaurant interiors.

| 28 |

the mix

Canadian whiskey rides with ginger beer in the Rodeo Highball.

| 30 | ON THE SHELF

New and notable in beer, spirits and wine.

| 32 |

mystery shopper

Buy it and try it: Fennel.

| 34 |

how to

Work a stall at Soulard Farmers Market.

| 36 | TECH SCHOOL

CHESTERFIELD MALL SAINT LOUIS GALLERIA UPPER LEVEL DILLARDS WING

NEXT TO ST. LOUIS BREAD

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Tea-smoking salmon.

| 38 |

gadget a-go-go

We put four apple corers to the test.

| 40 | Menu Options

Savor the last days of summer with Greek lemon-orzo soup.

| 78 |

the last bite

Managing editor Liz Miller learns to love dessert thanks to Pint Size Bakery & Coffee.

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY of sidney street cafe’s Corned sweetbread hash (P. 48)

BY Jennifer Silverberg Table of contents photography of tea-smoking ingredients (p. 40)

BY Jennifer Silverberg

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SEPTEMBER 2013

48

gravity defying

off the line a chef de cuisine’s inspired journey forward

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Inspired Food Culture

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SEPTEMBER 2013

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com.

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2013 by Feast Magazine™.

All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.

Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC

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publisher’s letter

FEAST EVENTS Feast In The Park Through September, 5 to 8pm; rotating St. Louis County Parks

Look for this icon. It tells you which articles are part of Feast TV!

This weekly festival gathers great mobile eats and popular local bands in four of St. Louis County’s most beautiful parks. Get the full schedule in the Feast Events section at feastSTL.com.

St. Louis Craft Spirits & Cocktail Week Sept. 7 to 15, multiple locations facebook.com/StLouisClassicCocktailParty

Missouri and Illinois craft distillers take center stage in a series of events showcasing craft spirits and cocktails. The week kicks off with the Classic Cocktail Party in Lafayette Square Park, followed by a series of tastings and pairing dinners at top restaurants in St. Louis.

2013 LouFest Sat., Sept. 7, and Sun., Sept. 8 loufest.com

This two-day festival features national and local bands, great food in the Feast-sponsored Nosh Pit, cool retail and a proactive greening effort.

S.L.O.B.S. BBQ Tour Sun., Sept. 8; The Famous Bar slobsbbq.com

This rotating barbecue competition takes place through November at various bars and restaurants in the St. Louis area. In the past three years, S.L.O.B.S. has raised more than $60,000 for various charities.

Trailnet’s Row by Row Farm Ramble

In this month’s Feast TV, I take you into the kitchen at Sidney Street Cafe to meet Chris Bolyard and learn what he plans to

Sat., Sept. 14

do as he explores the craft of in-house butchery.

trailnet.org

Cyclists will visit four farms to learn how urban farming is taking hold in St. Louis. Bring a bag for all your purchases. Departure is from Local Harvest Grocery.

Our September issue is focused on choices. Life changing choices like how

The Art of Food

to steer a culinary career, broadly impactful choices like how to lessen a restaurant’s environmental impact and lighthearted

Fri., Sept. 20; University of Missouri-Columbia

choices like which gadget to use when experimenting in the kitchen.

World-class chefs, journalists, authors and media professionals will come together to discuss the art of food in both the visual

This is the time of year when seasons shift from summer to fall, we start to slow down a bit and have a little more time to sit and ponder. Having those precious moments to reflect is necessary, particularly when you are considering a career move.

and gastronomic senses during this fifth-annual day of seminars, presentations, meals and networking.

Chris Bolyard, who is chef de cuisine at Sidney Street Cafe, has been Kevin Nashan’s right-hand man for just about a decade.

Slow Food St. Louis’ Art of Food

Now that he’s a dad, he and his wife Abbie are planning what’s next and no, it’s not another restaurant. Turn to p. 48 to read

Fri., Sept. 20; Lumen

Brandon Chuang’s piece on this up-and-coming culinarian and what you can expect to see from him in the next year.

Prices vary; slowfoodstl.org

Art of Food serves up delectable hors d’oeuvres using as many Many diners understand the importance of choosing sustainable meats and produce, but rarely do we discuss sustainable architecture and design as it relates to the food and drink industry. In “Low Impact, High Design” on p. 74, Brandi Wills explores some of the St. Louis culinary world’s newest environmentally sound projects. Reused shipping containers, solar panel ceilings and recycled garages are all making a positive – and beautiful – impact on our local eco-footprint.

And finally, we peek into the creative minds of local food bloggers. These passionate cooks play an interesting role in digital conversations about food. Experimenting in their own home kitchens, posting on topics as varied as vegan fare and authentic Filipino cuisine, the best bloggers offer guidance, inspiration and insight for their fellow home cooks. Because they cook so regularly, we wondered what kitchen gadgets they favor. Turn to p. 62 for “Go Gadget Go,” managing editor Liz Miller’s roundup of local bloggers’ top tools and the recipes you can try to give those gadgets a whirl in your own kitchen.

fresh, local ingredients as possible, all prepared in the Slow Food tradition by St. Louis’ favorite “slow” chefs.

Feast of Local Flavor Sat., Sept. 21, 2:30 to 5:30pm; Prasino $30; 636.277.0202

Enjoy a farm-to-table wine luncheon featuring local cuisine paired with local wine from Noboleis Vineyards in Prasino’s casual, open-air patio setting. Gift baskets will be available to take home.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Wed., Sept. 25, 6 to 9pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $40, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Until next time,

ch Feast Wat TV

Join Cat in the kitchen and learn how to make Greek lemon-orzo soup.

Catherine Neville

0 ABC3 at 9:30am on Sun., Sept. 8. on

Green Homes & Great Health Festival Sat., Sept. 28; Missouri Botanical Garden

Celebrate sustainable living and explore ways to maintain a healthy you and a healthy planet. Enjoy local foods and live music, and shop for handmade crafts in the Green Marketplace.

feedback?

catherine@feaststl.com 12

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2013

When autumn arrives, colors explode in one last hurrah before the gray of winter takes hold. And like fall, Missouri Wines burst with bright flavors.

They should. The grapes were ripened by Missouri sunshine and bottled by those who understand how summer’s warmth can make an autumn evening.

Inspired Food Culture

misssouriwine.org SEPTEMBER 2013

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ONLINE CONTENT

feastSTL.com

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

The Feed

Dine Out

Dine In

Drink

Feast Events

Multimedia

The Magazine

Promotions

ENTER TO WIN: Inspired by this month’s feature on St. Louis

food bloggers’ favorite gadgets (p. 62), we’re giving away a new gizmo so you can step up your game in the kitchen. Details at feastSTL.com/promotions.

MULTIMEDIA

FEAST TV: Get to know the people, places and trends making waves in the St. Louis food scene. Join Filipino food blogger Malou Perez-Nievera (p. 66) in the kitchen, learn how to make ginger beer with Matt Seiter (p. 32), find out Sidney Street Cafe chef de cuisine Chris Bolyard’s big plans for the future (p. 48), check out designer Jenny B’s upcycled approach to designing restaurants (p. 30) and hear from key players in the local sustainability movement, including Joe Edwards (pictured), Moonrise Hotel owner (p. 78 and p. 86).

SUBSCRIBE NOW: Get our exclusive coverage of the hottest new

spots to grab a bite in St. Louis, announcements on mustattend events and more in our weekly enewsletter! Sign up at feastSTL.com/site/newsletter.

hungry FOR MORE? Like FEAST. facebook.com/feastSTL

Follow FEAST. twitter.com/feastmag

Watch our videos. youtube.com/FeastMagazine

MULTIMEDIA

BEHIND-THE-SCENES COVERAGE: Watch an all-star cast of chefs compete in the St. Louis stop of Cochon 555’s nationally touring Heritage BBQ event. In our exclusive video, five culinary teams prepare heritagebreed pigs, making use of the entire animal, and event founder Brady Lowe talks about the importance of supporting family farms.

14

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2013

Pin with us. pinterest.com/feastmag

Share pics. @feastmag on Instagram

By integrating film and food, we create an original experience, a feast for the senses, an event that brings food and film, chefs and diners together.

Best

Traditional Mexican Margarita At Both Locations

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Traditional Margaritas, Extensive Wines from South America & Homemade Sangria $4.99 each

Presents

Movies for Foodies Tuesdays at Meyer’s Grove in the grove 4510 MANCHESTER AVENUE

SEPTEMBER 10TH OCTOBER 22ND

Tampopo Silence of the Lambs

Join us for multiple courses and drink pairings while enjoying our feature films.

Meals are prepared with locally sourced and hard-to-find ingredients.

Each new film inspires a new menu so each dining experience is unique.

Purchase your tickets online at www.brownpapertickets.com.

and

Tenacious Eats

35 N. Gore Ave, Webster Groves • (314) 968-3256 LaCantinaWebster.com

Present Disney’s

Enjoy “El Porche” The Best Outdoor Dining!

~ Happy Hour ~

Monday-Thursday ~ 3:30-5:30 p.m.

120 W. Jefferson, Kirkwood • (314) 821-0877 Amigoskirkwood.com

Princess and the Frog IRON KIDS 3 BENEFIT Thursday, October 10th

at The Thaxton SPeakeasy

Nine chefs, nine cocktails, nine courses! A kid-inspired cooking competition featuring nine of Saint Louis’ most exciting culinary artists. Film and food come together at the downtown underground to raise money for Discovering Options.

Purchase your tickets online at www.discoveringoptions.org.

TENACIOUS EATS is also available for private parties and corporate events For more information and events listings — www.facebook.com/TenaciousEats

“Why have just dinner and a movie when you can EAT the movie!”

Ready to cook up a new career?

Decorating Den Interiors has franchise opportunities in the St. Louis area. Home based or commercial office based, your choice.

Passion for decorating is all you need.

We teach you the rest.

Call 636-344-0147 or visit www.decoratingden.com.

636.344.0147 • decoratingden.com

“Footless”

Interactive Comedy Mystery Dinner Theatre Join us as we find Ma Donna and Barishnacough trying to keep the mob from bilking their business for protection money while Katherine Done Em flirts with every man who will to do her bidding.

Will she be tip toeing throught the tulips, or pushing up daisies? The participatory comedy mystery is served with a 4-course meal to DIE for!

Call for Reservations 314-533-9830.

Bring in this ad for $10.00 off per person Valid thru September 2013. Not Valid for groups

4426 Randall Place • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • bissellmansion.com Inspired Food Culture

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SEPTEMBER 2013

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KOHLS

At Skypark, your first day is free.

SkyPark is already the best parking value at Lambert. We offer the newest fleet of shuttles and the most courteous staff. If you like our basic service, you’ll love our valet service – with available car wash and oil change – so you’re ready to roll as soon as you touch down.

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St. Louis’ premier dance studio for 26 years at the same location!

We teach social beginners to advanced competitors Swing, Cha Cha, Rumba, Waltz, Tango, Fox Trot, Salsa, etc. Dance lessons for wedding couples and father/daughter dance. Offering adult, children, group and private lessons.

Professional dancers featured in the Independence Center’s “Dancing with the St. Louis Stars”

September Special - One Private, 2 Group lessons and 2 Parties for $60 (30% discount) Singles or Couples, New Students Only Gift Certificates available. No Contracts. Open 7 days a week.

236 Old Meramec Station Road • Manchester • 636.227.7202 • just-dancing.com

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Dynamic Design Copeland offers a new twist on an old classic.

Find exiting mid century modern inspired lines constructed of solid cherry or walunut. Each piece is made to order with a variety of knob and pull options and your choice of seven finishes.

Dau

Celebrating 118 Years

15424 Manchester Rd. • Ellisville, MO • 636.394.3005 • daufurniture.com

Best of the best in Alton • Dine in.

• Carry out.

• Full bar.

• Gift cards.

• Private parties.

• Reservations of 12 or more.

• Chicken, steak, seafood, pasta.

Only 25 minutes from St. Louis, 255 N IL to Fosterburg Rd., Exit 13. Open at 11am daily for lunch and dinner (Closed Mondays).

3400 Fosterburg Rd. • Alton, IL • 618.462-4620 •castellis255.com Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2013

17

FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

1520 S. Fifth St., St. Charles, 636.277.0202 prasino.com

18

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2013

PHOTOGRAPHy by

The Greek word prasino translates to green, and in St. Charles, the new Prasino restaurant holds true to its nomenclature. Sustainability is a guiding principle for Prasino, from the design of its fashionable interiors to the all-natural cleaning products used to keep the large, modern eatery tidy. Prasino’s executive chef, Tony Marchetto, seeks out local products to highlight, such as honey sourced from hives just a mile from the restaurant, which he spoons over thick Greek yogurt and garnishes with perfect berries.

Breakfast is served until 3pm and although eggs are the star of the morning menu, those looking to seriously indulge should order the pretzelcroissant French toast with white chocolate and salted caramel. The rest of the day, selections range from beautiful sushi to a lightened-up lobster roll to strip steak that’s grilled to tenderness and served with charred greens. The beverage program is also worth noting as the restaurant prides itself on featuring small, artisan winemakers and craft brewers. – C.N.

Jennifer Silverberg

prasino

FEAST FAVES

| where w e’re dr ink i ng

YOUR SOURCE FOR THE FINEST

chardonnay on tap @ sasha’s on shaw

• Maine Lobsters • Jumbo Lump Crabmeat • Dry-Packed Scallops • Jumbo Shrimp • Smoked Salmon • Wide Selection of Oysters & Fish

Homemade Greek Food Carry out • Catering Private Parties Gyros • Kebobs • Baklava Patio Now open!

written by Jennifer Johnson

The Shaw wine bar Sasha’s On Shaw offers robust, constantly rotating selections of

oLYmPIa keBoB HoUSe aNd TaVerNa 7 days a week from 11am 1543 McCausland • 314-781-1299

interesting off-the-beaten-path varietal wines – think Chenin Blanc from Vouvray, Austrian Grüner Veltliner or Albariño from Rías Baixas. Ironically, good-ole mainstream Chardonnay intrigued us on a recent visit. More specifically, the 2011 Aiden Napa Valley Chardonnay – and

314.993.4844

8660 Olive in U City

FRESHEST SEAFOOD IN ST. LOUIS SINCE 1978! bobsseafoodstl.com

even before we knew it was served on tap. Wine served on tap is a green-packaging trend recently introduced to the Midwest. This Chardonnay was harvested, fermented and aged in French oak barrels like many Chardonnays, but is packaged in pressurized 20-liter, glass-lined,

Unparalleled Personal Service

stainless-steel kegs to prevent any opportunity for oxidation, UV light penetration and cork taint. The result is a nice complexity of fresh, tropical fruit with a bit of fig and citrus, moderate toasty vanilla notes on the finish and a surprisingly crisp acidity, considering its time in oak and that it’s vintage. The Aiden paired with Sasha’s prosciutto and Italian fontina crêpe is a textural delight, underscoring the delicate smoky-sweet, melt-in-your-mouth nature of the meat, the

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mild nuttiness of the melted cheese and the buttery, paper-thin pancake.

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PHOTOGRAPHy by

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historic Soulard

St. Louis-based wine enthusiast Jennifer Johnson is a sommelier, wine educator, journalist and hospitality and marketing consultant who loves to celebrate life, family, food and wine.

Farmers Market

ExpEriEncE

the AMbIAnCe OF thIS Old FAShIOned MArket

Fresh Produce, Meats, Seafood, Spices, Flowers, Artisan Cheeses, Snacks, Pets, & Other Unique Items

www.soulardmarketstl.com Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2013

19

FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dinin g

wang gang asian eats Edwardsville’s Wang Gang Asian Eats relocated this past July, upgrading from a small strip-mall space to roomier digs just down the street.

The new restaurant includes outdoor seating, a large bar area serving beer, wine and cocktails and a sizable dining room outfitted in textured, modern decor. Reinvention is also happening on its menus, which offer contemporary twists on Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese cuisine. These cross-cultural influences mingle on the menu, with appetizers such as Thai-inspired chicken satay with peanut dipping sauce to Chinese-style barbecue-braised ginger pork ribs. Entrees travel between continents, too: Think honey-orange beef marinated in sweet orange ginger sauce with green beans and served with mandarin oranges; Vietnamese banh mi sandwiches served with cabbage salad and Nuoc Cham dipping sauce; and “The Drunken Noodle,” Wang Gang’s version of Thai pad kee mao, with egg noodles, bell peppers, red onions, egg, bamboo shoots and carrots in a sweet and spicy shrimp sauce. – L.M.

PHOTOGRAPHy by

Jonathan Gayman

1035 Century Drive, Edwardsville, Ill., 618.655.0888 wanggangasian.com

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FEAST FAVES

| food stu ff

tea time This month’s Tech School column on tea-smoking salmon (p. 40) inspired us to talk to local tea experts about the custom blends of green, black and herbal teas available in St. Louis shops. Sip and savor notes of autumn with these three original blends. – L.M.

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Weddings • Birthdays Graduations • Showers CUTCO the forever gift for all occasions THE LONDON TEA ROOM | 1 | Kiss From A Rose, made with nettle leaf, elderberry, rose petals, rooibos, elderflower, cinnamon bark, clove, ginger and stevia leaf, 1-oz. bag/$5; Traveling Tea, 2707 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.647.8832, traveling-tea.com | 2 | Mom’s Bedtime Story, made with chamomile, jasmine, lemongrass, spearmint and valerian root, 1-oz. bag/$7; The ReTrailer, Local Harvest Grocery, multiple locations, theretrailer.com | 3 | 5th of November, made with gunpowder tea, wild winter berries, vanilla bean and lapsang souchong, 2-oz. bag/$8; The London Tea Room, 1520 Washington Ave., Downtown, 314.241.6556, thelondontearoom.com PHOTOGRAPHy by Jonathan Gayman

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Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2013

21

FEAST FAVES

| the big idea

feed your vitality J. Pollack Photography

written by Brandon Chuang

Photography by

Losing almost 100 pounds does something to a person, changing much more than their physical appearance. For Ashley Nanney, it made her leave a career in marketing to start a meal delivery company. The only problem? Nanney didn’t know how to cook. “I had to eat my way to wellness,” Nanney says about her self-taught culinary expertise.

“You don’t end up 97 pounds overweight without loving food, and I wanted to replicate and mimic the food I loved.”

Feed Your Vitality is the result of Nanney’s mimicry.

She founded the company just a few years ago to deliver meals free of gluten, corn, dairy, soy, grains, legumes or artificial ingredients to those in need.

Feed Your Vitality’s portfolio of ready-to-eat foods is approved by popular nutrition programs such as the Paleo Diet, SHAPE ReClaimed and the hCG diet.

“Our main focus is reducing inflammation,” Nanney notes. “A lot of doctors believe that inflammation is [a big] source of disease in our society; we’re trying to create foods that reduce inflammation in the body, not cause it.”

800 N. Tucker Blvd. 412-A, Downtown 314.910.3324, feedyourvitality.com

Contemporary Classics ReCipe Contest Get your recipe published in the november issue of feAst! Home cooks, you are invited to submit Thanksgiving recipes to Feast’s Contemporary Classics recipe contest in three categories: appetizers, side dishes and desserts, developed as contemporary takes on classic holiday dishes.

The top three recipes in each category will be chosen by Feast’s editorial staff to be tested by the professional chef instructors at L’Ecole Culinaire. Finalists will be invited to watch the recipe testing and judging unfold, where the dishes will be scored based on appearance, seasonal appeal and, of course, flavor. Winners chosen from each category will have their dish professionally photographed and featured in Feast’s Thanksgiving issue along with the winning recipe.

Throw your recipes into the ring by sending your contact information, your recipe concept and your full recipe to editor@feastSTL.com.

Presented by

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EN RO LL NO W!

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Delicious handmade pies featuring traditional flavors that Grandma made and creative innovations with a new twist. Stop by for a slice or mini pie… or order in advance for a whole pie!

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Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2013

23

FEAST FAVES

| s ho p -o-ma t i c

extra virgin, an olive ovation Watching Marianne Prey explain the origins, various applications and flavor profiles of extravirgin olive oils, flavored olive oils and balsamic vinegars is like watching an expert sommelier describe wine. She knows the artisan producers she works with by name, what ingredients they use and how they grow and harvest olives. For the past six years Prey has shared this extensive reserve of knowledge – and inventory – of oils, vinegars and specialty products with customers at her shop, Extra Virgin, an Olive Ovation, which relocated from Clayton to Ladue in July. “I’ve always loved to cook, and I’ve always loved olives,” Prey says. “One of my first food memories, when I was four years old, was eating green olives. It seems like it’s a natural fit.”

The new store offers 400-square-feet more space than the old, including a 20-person event area, and offers more room for inventory. Prey says she built the entire space from scratch, with the intention to recreate the Mediterranean feel of the former store. Warm Tuscan colors wrap the shop, with lovely accent painting done by Prey herself. At the center of the new space is a large tasting bar where customers can sample the extensive selection of oils and vinegars.

At any given time Extra Virgin features an inventory of 30 to 40 extra virgin olive oils – including a handful on tap – as well as flavored oils, flavored wine vinegars and balsamic and flavored vinegars, and a huge selection of artisan dips, spreads, pastas, sauces and condiments.

“The most rewarding part has always been introducing customers to new things,” Prey says.

“To products they can’t find anywhere else in St. Louis and showing them what good olive oil really tastes like.” – L.M. 8829 Ladue Road, Ladue, 314.727.6464 extravirginoo.com

Three Palate-Pleasing Products | 1 | Robbins Family Farm balsamic vinegar, which Prey says is the shop’s most popular bottle. “It’s thick, it’s rich, it’s sweet,” she says. “It has a very distinctive grape flavor.”

| 2 | Prey describes this sundried garlic spread from Tunisia as a versatile specialty item. “It’s roasted garlic in extra virgin olive oil,” she says. “The cloves are very soft and spreadable; it just has a tremendous flavor. It’s an all-purpose condiment.”

from a small family olive grove in Northern California,” she says. ”They grow one particular olive called arbequina, and make award-winning oil for us. It has enough flavors so you can use it as finishing oil, but it’s mild enough to use for all purpose.”

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|1|

|2|

|3|

PHOTOGRAPHy by Corey Woodruff

| 3 | Extra Virgin, an Olive Ovation’s private label of extra virgin olive oil. “We get this

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SATURDAY, AUGUST 31 Artist Village

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4:00 pm Irie Sun ~ Free Admission ~ Delicious Tastings from Area Restaurants 5:00 pm Smokey Lonesome Delicious Tastings from Area Restaurants pm Kim Massie Balaban’s, Gitto’s, 6:30 East Coast Pizza, Edgewild, Oceano, Balaban's, Charlie Gitto's, EastCharlie Coast Pizza, 8:30 pm Groovethang 10:00Scarecrow, pm Fireworks! Windowsills Cafe Edgewild, Oceano, Sarah’s Sarah's Cake ShopShop and Cake and Scarecrow, Windowsills Cafe Wine Selections ~ Regional Craft Beers Wine Selections ~ Regional Craft Beers Tasting Bookletswww.chesterfield.mo.us for Sale At The Event or call 636-537-4000 Tasting Booklets for Sale At The Event Shuttle Parking available across from Dillard’s at Chesterfiled Mall.

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FEAST FAVE • Pork Porterhouse. Rensing’s Porterhouse pork chop, cheddar jalapeno bread pudding, green beans, sunny side up egg Enjoy our patio dining!

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4821 Fairview Ave., St. Louis • 314.832.1555 • www.zollingerfurniture.com Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2013

25

FEAST FAVES

| whAT we ’re buying

upping crusts

September hovers at the edge of summer and autumn, offering fresh fruit and veggies across two seasons. Peaches, blackberries and blueberries are still available locally, held over from summer, while apples, sweet potatoes, rhubarb, pumpkin and more are ripe for the picking. Once you’ve got the ingredients, these pie-making tools and accessories help home cooks become pastry pros. – L.M.

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Jonathan Gayman

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PHOTOGRAPHy by

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Visit feastSTL.com for six pie-making tips from Jane Callahan, owner of Pie Oh My! | 1 | Mini pocket-pie molds in apple, star and circle shapes, set of three, $19.95; WilliamsSonoma, 260 Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, 314.567.9211, williams-sonoma.com | 2 | Jessie Steele recipe file box in cherry print, $20.95; Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314.822.2440, cornucopia-kitchen.com | 3 | Emile Henry 9-inch pie dishes in red and olive, 26

$39.95 each; Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Richmond Heights, 314.862.2665, kitchenconservatory.com | 4 | Blackbird pie bird, $6.95; Williams-Sonoma | 5 | Le Creuset Stoneware red pie bird, $8; Kitchen Conservatory | 6 | Mrs. Anderson’s Baking white porcelain pie bird, $2.95; Cornucopia | 7 | Emile Henry artisan mini ruffled pie dishes

in nougat, $22.95 each; Williams-Sonoma | 8 | Ateco Ultra fluted pastry wheel, $11.95; Kitchen Conservatory | 9 | Rose Levy Bakeware rosecolored mini pie pans, $11 each; Winslow’s Home, 7213 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.725.7559, winslowshome.com | 10 | Nuance Beechwood rolling pin with stainless-steel ends, $49.95; Williams-Sonoma | 11 | Mastrad pastry mat,

SEPTEMBER 2013

Feast extra

$14.95; Cornucopia | 12 | Zyliss adjustable pie server, $13; Sur La Table, 295 Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, 314.993.0566, surlatable.com Pies from left to right: Peach praline pie, apple pie with Vom Fass apple-pie liqueur and sweet potato pie with oatmeal crumble; Pie Oh My!, 2719 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.704.4416, pieohmystl.com PHOTOGRAPHy by

feastSTL.com

check it out!

Jonathan Gayman

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Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2013

27

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314.371.0300 • rivercitygranite.com

Chi Mangia Bene Vive Bene!

"To Eat Well is To Live Well" Proudly Serving Authentic Italian Food in a Family Atmosphere.

Let Us Cater Your Special Occasion Featuring Daily Lunch & Dinner Specials Feature of the Month: PIZZA! PIZZA! PIZZA! Try our Original Godfather Pizza.

Pizza is served on T,W,TH and Sun evenings and everyday for lunch.

Reservations Recommended, Hours of Operation: Tuesday - Saturday 11am-10pm • Sunday Noon-9pm • Closed Monday

5442 Old Hwy 21• Imperial • 636.942.2405 • trattoria-giuseppe.com

Swing Into Fall with Biscotti Frozen Yogurt Topped with Seasonal Berries You can have it all... straight forward and simple or your own gourmet creation. Choose from innovative sweet, or tart and tangy yogurts and sorbets. Top with fruity, salty, or sugary toppings.

Chill’s yogurts are locally made and fresh daily and our flavors are unique. Try piling on hand-shaved Callebaut chocolate, raspberry puree, and Chill’s homemade fudge sauce or sea salt caramel.

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Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2013

29

one on one

Jenny B

creative art director, JIPSI vintage boho living written by Jeremy Nulik | Photography by Jonathan Gayman | Shot on location at MELT

MELT, a waffle restaurant and bar on Cherokee Street, cuts a bold figure. Bright fabric strips dangle from a wire in front of the remnants of an old birdcage. On the wall, salvaged window frames hang above a patchwork re-upholstered sofa. At the center of it all is designer Jenny B, creative art director of JIPSI vintage boho living.

Her eclectic approach to design has caught the eyes of local restaurateurs looking to turn customer experience up a notch. Aside from MELT, her work can be found adorning the interiors of Elaia and Olio, La Patisserie Chouquette and Rise Coffee House, slated to open this fall in The Grove.

What is your creative process? My brain does not have an off button…it keeps going and going. Everything stimulates me creatively. It’s texture, color, pattern.

I do stuff that you are not supposed to do. Whatever you don’t want me to make something into, I will. Your work includes upcycled and repurposed materials.

How does that translate to restaurant design? Everything you see [inside MELT] was found within five to 10 miles of St. Louis.

It was either on a corner or in a dumpster or wherever. When some people see trash or boring furniture, I see something else. I generally design very theatrically, whether it’s for a home or a restaurant – the difference is the functionality and durability. Art has a lot to do with how you feel when you go to a restaurant. My art is a way to make an experience memorable.

What is the strangest thing you’ve upcycled? I was once out for a jog and saw a lamp shade. I ran for a mile with it in my hand. It looked like a scene from Dumb and Dumber. If you hadn’t become an interior designer, what would you be?

I was actually born to be a teacher. And what people don’t know about me is that I am a forensics freak. I would love to play in a lab.

What inspires you to work with found and reimagined materials? I remember being this way my whole life. When I was 5-years-old, I went garage-sale shopping with my grandparents. I remember worrying about whether the chambray matched the denim in my tennis shoes. And my parents were hippies, so I think it has always been who I am. Tell us about your work with forthcoming Rise Coffee House. Rise is Euro, eco, urban, hipster, sustainable, designed with a free spirit. As you walk into the front door the distressed textures wrap around you like a big hug: original wood floors and beams, exposed brick with crisp white walls and pops of bright bohemian colors, upcycled bike-themed lighting and

JIPSI vintage boho living 314.303.5499 jipsiboho.com

a hand-crafted brew bar with treehouseinspired organic direction.

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Visit feastSTL.com to read the full interview with Jenny B.

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2013

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the mix

Rodeo Highball

Story and recipe by Matt Seiter Photography by Jonathan Gayman

I was first introduced to the Rodeo Highball during my time in Chicago. I was working at a bar called In Fine Spirits and we ran this as a special for a few weeks. One of the owners “created” it, with the simple combination of whiskey and ginger ale in mind. It is that simple – Canadian whiskey, ginger beer and a lemon twist. However, it has to be a specific Canadian whiskey – Pendleton. The story behind this cocktail’s name is also rather simple – there is a logo of a cowboy riding a bull on the Pendleton bottle. This cocktail is refreshing, but does pack a punch – just like riding a bull.

Despite a short ingredient list, there are a few complexities to this drink. Canadian whiskey is lighter than most as it is blended and also mixed with neutral or unaged spirits, as whiskey laws differ in Canada.

All whiskey (be it scotch, bourbon, Canadian or Japanese) starts off as a clear liquid; anything coming straight from a still is clear liquid, with color added later. For whiskey, color comes from the charred barrel it sits in over many years. Clear whiskey goes into a 53-gallon barrel. Every year it ages, 3 to 5 percent of the volume evaporates through the pores of the wood. This evaporated whiskey is called the “angel’s share” – the whiskey the angels steal. In the U.S., bourbon makers cannot replace that lost whiskey with anything. In Canada, however, they can. That lost juice is replaced with white whiskey or neutral-grain spirits. Such aged goodness is “watered” down with unaged spirits, making the end product lose a portion of the flavor the barrel offers. In addition, most Canadian whiskeys are simply younger (two to four years old) when they go into the bottle.

The light flavor is the redeeming quality for this drink. If you use older bourbon, a higher proof or barrel-strength whiskey, you get too much barrel, which hides the ginger and the lemon. The lightness of Canadian whiskey allows those barrel flavors to play with the ginger and lemon better than American whiskeys. There will still be a few dog days in September, and the ginger flavor welcomes fall.

Ginger Ale vs. Ginger Beer Ginger ale has been around since at least the 1850s, but didn’t gain popularity until the early 1900s, when Canadian John McLaughlin created Canada Dry. It is essentially a carbonated beverage (or soda) made with water and ginger or ginger syrup.

Ginger beer originated in the 1800s in England. Originally it contained a small percentage of alcohol, though today it’s usually nonalcoholic.

Rodeo Highball It is brewed much like a beer. First, ginger is chopped, then combined with sugar and water and brought to a boil. Solids are strained, which produces ginger “wort,” just like beer. Yeast can be added at this stage to allow for natural carbonation, or in some cases, the wort is added to a liter siphon and carbonated. Some varieties of ginger beer contain a small amount of alcohol, but usually less than 0.5 percent. Ginger beer also typically has a spicier ginger flavor due to the brewing process.

Matt Seiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program and a continuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft of mixology. He is a member of Drink Lab and a consultant at Sanctuaria.

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Serves | 1 | ice 2 oz Pendleton Canadian Whisky 1 piece lemon peel 4 oz ginger beer

| Preparation | Fill ¾ of a highball glass with ice. Pour in whiskey. Twist lemon peel into glass; when finished, add to glass. Top off with ginger beer. Stir to combine.

Inspired Food Culture

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on the shelf

top september PICKS

beer

written by Michael Sweeney

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

Unibroue’s La Fin du Monde

Ransom Henry DuYore’s Bourbon

Available At: Whole Foods Market, multiple locations,

wholefoodsmarket.com; $10.99 (four-pack, 12-oz bottles) Pairing: Tagliatelle with pistou • Triple cream Brie Don’t let your guard down around a tripel beer. They tend to be extremely light and easy-to-drink beers, but if you’re not careful, their high alcohol content will catch up to you in no time. Unibroue’s version of this Belgian classic brew is sublime. The aroma is spicy due to Unibroue’s distinctive yeast strain, with a well-hidden alcohol burn. Just watch out – one too many of these hits hard before you know it.

Excel Bottling Co.’s Eastside IPA Style: American IPA (7% abv) Available At: Friar Tuck, multiple locations,

friartuckonline.com; $9.99 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles) Pairings: Deep-dish sausage pizza• Cheese curds Forget the West Coast – some of the best IPAs are now being brewed in the Midwest. Excel Bottling Co., based in Breese, Ill., has produced the soft drink Ski for years, but hired Rod Burguiere, previously of Stone Brewing Co., to craft some amazing beers for them, as well. This American IPA is beautifully bitter with just enough caramel malt to make it quite drinkable.

Firestone Walker Brewing Co.’s Wookey Jack Black Rye IPA

Available At: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $33.99 Try It: On the rocks with a splash of water

Henry DuYore’s Straight Bourbon Whiskey is true Oregon bourbon, produced from a mash bill of 56 percent corn, 35 percent rye and 9 percent barley. This heavier-thanusual rye and barley percentage is very noticeable on the palate. The addition of French oak to American oak in the aging process also adds individuality to this bourbon. It is spicy and carries a very robust mouth feel due to the large amount of barley. I would not expect this latest release from Ransom to replace any of your mainstay whiskeys, but this is no doubt a fun bottle to add to your home bar.

Jim Beam Rye Whiskey Provenance: Kentucky (40% abv) Available At: Randall’s Wine and Spirits, multiple

locations, shoprandalls.com; $14.99 Try It: In a Manhattan or an Old Fashioned Jim Beam Rye is not a new product, but with inflated rye whiskey prices, it is a bargain not to be overlooked. The Beam family produces many nice, upscale and wellrespected whiskeys, but the namesake of this distillery does not garner much respect amongst your average whiskey drinkers. Beam Rye deserves some respect. It is a simple, smooth and spicy rye whiskey, and it is worth every penny. It is peppery with a soft and quick finish. I am not suggesting you pass over great small-batch and single-barrel productions, but when in need of a good rye, Beam will do right by your pocketbook and palate.

Colonel E.H. Taylor Rye Provenance: Kentucky (50% abv) Available At: The Wine Merchant, Ltd., 20 S.

Available At: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple

Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com; $69.99 Try It: On the rocks or neat with a splash of water

There are certain styles of beer I like more than others, but I’ve never been a big fan of Cascadian dark ales (also known as Black IPAs). Still, I’m open to being proven wrong, and Firestone Walker has done just that with its Wookey Jack Black Rye IPA. This beer, while dark, has a subdued roasted flavor that allows the hops to come forward, keeping it from being a stout and more closely resembling an IPA. SEPTEMBER 2013

Provenance: Oregon (45.6% abv)

Style: Cascadian Dark Ale (8.3% abv)

locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $5.99 (22-oz bottle) Pairings: Spiced chocolate• Grilled rib-eye steak

feastSTL.com

written by Chad Michael George

The creator of stlhops.com and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the craft beer manager at Lohr Distributing.

Style: Tripel (9% abv)

34

spirits

Last year the Buffalo Trace Distillery released a few whiskeys under the E.H. Taylor moniker. More are now coming into the mix, and this 100-proof rye might just be the jewel of the collection. The Taylor is all-rye grain and malted barley, which leads to an ultra peppery flavor with a touch of salty dill and citrus zest. It is incredibly balanced and the finish is dominated by caramel, vanilla and baking spice. Even at 100 proof, this rye is a pleasure to sip but also has the backbone to make a mean cocktail, especially simple classics.

wine

written by Kyle Harsha

Kyle Harsha is a certified specialist of wine and certified sommelier with over 20 years’ experience in the food and wine industry. He drinks more wine than he probably ought to.

York Creek Meritage 2001 Provenance: Napa, Calif.

Available At: Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, parkerstable.com; $34.99 Pairings: Grilled rib-eye steak• Wild game stew• Dark bittersweet chocolate

Every once in a while a winery reintroduces past vintages, making them available to a particular market. This is the case with these exceptional wines from Spring Mountain in Napa. Fritz Maytag (of the family famous for blue cheese and washers that don’t quit) has offered numerous vintages of his wines in Missouri. The 2001 is made with a base of Cabernet Sauvignon, and is dark, brooding and full of black fruit, cassis, leather and tobacco flavors. Watch the end of the cork, as it will stain anything it touches.

Scarpetta Pinot Grigio 2011 Provenance: Friuli, Italy Available At: The Wine Merchant, Ltd., 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com; $15.99 Pairings: Fried chicken• Mussels and frites• Prosciuttowrapped honeydew

What do you get when a very talented, award-winning chef who happened to go to high school in Clayton partners with a master sommelier to make wine? You get a Pinot Grigio that transcends most of the boring, ubiquitous white wines from Northern Italy. Lachlan Patterson and Bobby Stuckey work tirelessly to elicit the apricot, Asian pear and mineral notes that explode out of this Scarpetta.

This wine could very easily be described as a “Chardonnay drinker’s Pinot Grigio.”

Margerum M5 Red Blend 2011 Provenance: Santa Barbara, Calif.

Available At: Saint Louis Wine Market and Tasting Room,

164 Chesterfield Commons East Road, Chesterfield, stlwinemarket.com; $28 Pairings: Pecorino cheese• Roasted venison • Barbecued ribs This wine’s name says it all. The “M” stands for Margerum, the “5” for the five grapes used to produce this wine: Shiraz, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsaut and Counoise.

Jason Barrette, rock-star winemaker for Penfolds in Australia, spends half of the year in California, crafting this smoky, juicy wine with hints of cranberry and red licorice, and just the right amount of oak. It’s sort of like drinking an American version of Châteauneuf without the weighty price tag.

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2013

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mystery shopper

Meet: Fennel

story and recipe by Shannon Weber Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Forget what you think you know about fennel. Though its flavor is often compared to black licorice, it does not taste like the much-maligned candy, nor is it harsh or overpowering. Surprised? I was, too, and assuming the worst about fennel kept me from cooking with it for far too long.

What is it?

Fennel is a perennial herb indigenous to the Mediterranean and available yearround. It’s a main ingredient in absinthe, and contains the same aromatic compound as anise and star anise, which makes them similar in scent. This scent, in fact, is the only way to differentiate fennel from its relative, the poison hemlock.

What do I do with it?

Fennel has a crisp, bright flavor and exceptional crunch when raw, making it ideal for slicing into salads all year long.

Toss it into slaw for an earthier spin on the side dish, chop it into “chips” to make vegetable trays more interesting or use it in a mirepoix to give it a lift. The fronds are beautiful as a garnish or as a herby component to citrus or seafood dishes.

Caramelized Fennel and Olive Focaccia with Fennel Frond Pesto Caramelized fennel plays wonderfully with Kalamata olives and Feta atop focaccia, and using the leftover fronds for pesto is an excellent way to showcase their versatility.

Serves | 24 to 36 | Focaccia 2¼ cups warm water (100ºF to 115ºF)

2 2 2 5¼

1

6½

Tbsp active dry yeast Tbsp honey tsp kosher salt cups unbleached all-purpose bread flour Tbsp fresh rosemary, finely chopped Tbsp extra virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for bowl

Topping 4 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil, divided 1 large fennel bulb, fronds and stalks removed, thinly sliced 1/3 cup water 6 oz Kalamata olives, halved lengthwise ¾ cup Feta, crumbled Pesto 2 cups firmly packed fennel fronds (2 or 3 fennel bulbs) 1 cup raw sliced almonds, toasted 1 -2 cloves garlic 1 cup extra virgin olive oil sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

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| Preparation – Focaccia | In a large bowl, combine warm water, yeast and honey and let stand until foamy, 5 minutes. Add salt, flour, rosemary and 4½ Tbsp olive oil, and stir until dough is rough.

Transfer to floured work surface and knead with oiled hands for 5 minutes. Generously oil the bottom and sides of a large bowl. Roll dough in it until thoroughly coated with oil. Tightly cover with plastic wrap and place in a warm area of the kitchen for 1 hour, until doubled in size.

Pour remaining 2 Tbsp of olive oil in a lipped halfsheet pan, and spread evenly over bottom and sides of pan. Punch down dough in the bowl and transfer to a sheet pan. Gently ease dough over entire pan with your fingers. If it feels too elastic,

cover dough in the pan with plastic wrap and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes, then repeat process.

occasionally until fennel is golden and tender. Set aside to cool.

Arrange racks to sit on the bottom and upper middle of a cold oven. Boil 1 cup water and place in a heat-proof cup. Place focaccia pan on the upper rack and the cup of water on the lower rack. Close oven and let steam in cold oven for 30 to 40 minutes, until puffed. Remove pan from oven and preheat to 450ºF.

Make indentations in dough with your finger.

Drizzle with remaining olive oil and scatter fennel, olives and Feta. Bake on the middle rack of the oven for 25 to 30 minutes until golden brown around edges. Remove and let cool slightly, then slice and serve with Fennel Frond Pesto (see below).

| Preparation – Topping | In a large skillet over medium heat, heat 2 Tbsp olive oil. Add fennel; toss to coat. Cook until fennel begins to color. Add water, cover and steam until water has evaporated. Uncover and cook, stirring

| Preparation – Pesto | In a food processor, place fennel fronds, almonds and garlic, and pulse until blended into a thick paste. With the motor running, slowly add olive oil until emulsified and mixture is homogenous. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

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Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2013

37

how to

Run a Stall at Soulard Farmers Market

For 35 years, Allen Scharf has been doing the exact same thing every Saturday morning: waking up before any sensible rooster would so he can get to the farmers’ market in Soulard to set up. In the pre-dawn hours it’s difficult to see the sign above the northern hall’s roof – the one boasting of the market’s existence for 199 years prior to Scharf and his eponymous farm even entering the picture – but it’s there. And so is Scharf’s team, each one organizing, weighing and packaging in preparation for the coming storm.

In the semi-darkness that can only, and most accurately, be described as 4:30 in the morning, Scharf and crew continue to set up shop, a 40-foot long wooden altar that displays, quite literally, the fruits of their labor. Tomatoes, berries, peppers, potatoes – a cascading sea of sustenance appears with blinding speed as Scharf drinks his coffee and eyes his surroundings for detritus and debris. It is, after all, still the weekend in Soulard.

“There’s a lot of prep that goes into what we do,” Scharf explains about the workload that comes with renting a stall in the oldest market west of the Mississippi since 1978. If we’re not ready by 6:30, we’re in trouble.”

On most Saturdays at the market, Scharf can tell when it’s 6:30am because his regulars are, well, regularly there right at 6:30am. To be more specific, they regularly start coming at 6:30am and don’t stop until around 3:00 in the afternoon.

“The old joke is you can’t get married on a Saturday if you’re a Soulard [Farmers Market] person,” Scharf chuckles. “Of course, we make an exception for our kids.”

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Scharf might make exceptions for his children, but part of that reason might be because if one of them were to get married, there would be no one to run the stand. Seemingly everyone working at the Scharf stall is either family or damn close. Scharf’s cousin, Cheryl, oversees one section; Scharf’s son, Alex, is overseeing another; and Scharf’s college roommate, Mike, runs the middle.

Scharf’s stand is broken up into three main sections: the far side contains the vegetables, the center contains the fruit, and the Northern-most side, on this day, contains flowers. Every weekend brings new and fresh products. And as customers flock from every direction, fingers pointing and money extended, Cheryl, Alex, Mike and Allen all scramble around each other in the four-foot-wide alley of space that sits between the stand and Scharf’s produce trucks.

Certainly, if you’ve been to the Soulard Farmers Market, you’ve seen firsthand the throngs of people, the crush of carts and kids as you do your best to slalom through the madness. As Scharf recalls, in the late ’80s and early ’90s, as many as 10,000 warm bodies came through the market on a single Saturday. Today there aren’t nearly as many people as in years past, a result of a multitude of changes that have occurred to the surrounding cityscape. And while there might not be 10,000 people here now, it certainly feels like it.

written by Brandon Chuang Photography by Jonathan Gayman

when the crowd gets three or more deep and the person in front still hasn’t decided between the red or green peppers. As a result, customers simply shout out their orders, vying for the attention of one of Scharf’s people. Somehow in the flurry, everyone gets waited on.

In the beginning, Soulard Farmers Market was almost solely farmers; family upon family running the individual eight-foot sections that represented their week’s work. Today, the market has changed; becoming this amalgamation of grocer meets bazaar meets food court. And one of the reasons Scharf’s stall is so busy is because they are one of the truly legitimate farms in the market. What this means is a natural agility to respond to their customers. If there’s an appropriate demand, given enough time, they can more than likely grow the supply.

“I don’t understand kale,” Scharf says, smiling, as he makes an example of the popular super green.

“Personally, I can’t stand it, but people started asking for it, and I knew that I could grow it. So now, we have kale.”

People have come to expect certain things from Scharf and his stand at the Soulard market. One woman, walking by briskly, calls out, “do you have any asparagus left?”

“I have no idea how many people I serve on a Saturday,” Scharf says, laughing. “It’s definitely in the hundreds; hundreds and hundreds of people.”

“Unfortunately, no,” Scharf replies, frowning, “asparagus season is pretty much over; I sold the last of it last week.”

Because there are no aisles, no flashing lane signs or self-scan checkouts at the farmers’ market, customers must police themselves as to who is next. It’s more difficult than you’d think, especially

“I figured as much,” the woman says, as she keeps walking. “But I thought it wouldn’t hurt to ask.”

Throughout the day, Scharf’s clientele makes their

stops – some for product, others just to say hello.

There are the super regulars: the men and women who come armed to the teeth with their polyester and canvas totes to pick up an entire week’s worth of groceries. There are the food nerds: the ones who come, attracted by signage proclaiming the farm’s lineage in Millstadt, Ill., sniffing and prodding through the bushels of goods that Scharf offers. And then there are the bargainhunters: the individuals who try to come by late in the day to prey for deals, knowing full well that the options for the farmer are to either sell it cheap or pack it up and take it home.

“We have a very diverse client base here,” Scharf notes proudly. “Every type of person known to mankind comes to Soulard on a Saturday.”

During the busy months, Saturdays at the Soulard Farmers Market are insanity for Scharf Farms; so much so that the crew actually uses its Thursdays and Fridays – days that they are also selling at the market – to prepare for Saturdays and its crowds.

But in the late afternoons of those Saturdays, once the regulars and foodies and bargain-hunters go home, Allen Scharf and his family of staffers do what they’ve done for 35 years, and what farmers before them did for hundreds of years: load up what remains of their wares and head home. And while the new vendors of Soulard Farmers Market, the wholesalers and restaurateurs and purseslingers, packing up alongside, might give pause to other farmers, Allen Scharf takes it all in stride.

“The market’s changed over the years, and we’ll continue to change with it,” he says. “There are some wonderful, hardworking, friendly people who make up the merchants here. You have to be – you won’t last long in Soulard if you’re not.”

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Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2013

39

tech school

Tea Smoking

Story and recipe by Cassy Vires Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

We Americans love smoking things.

Barbecue is in our blood. Land is passed down from generation to generation because the trees that grow on that land provide the best smoke. Weekend festivals are dedicated to people who can smoke the best brisket. But cherry and hickory aren’t the only things we can use to impart the delicious aromas of smoke into foods.

Using tea leaves to smoke food has become a popular trend. The tea leaves impart a unique flavor onto food and smoke very quickly, making it an ideal technique for quick cooking in restaurants, as well as at home.

The process can be done outdoors on a charcoal grill or indoors with a stovetop smoker or wok. The temperature should be kept relatively low – 120ºF to 140ºF – so indoor methods provide a little more control.

Make sure to open a window or two and turn on a vent if possible. It doesn’t create a terrible amount of smoke, but certainly does create enough to be a nuisance.

This method of tea smoking adds an Asian influence to the process, so adding aromatics such as cinnamon, clove, peppercorn and anise complements the technique. Those aromas latch onto food. The addition of brown sugar adds a caramelized aroma as the sugar melts. The use of rice, however, doesn’t add much, if any, flavor or aroma. The rice acts as a sort of stabilizer, keeping ingredients from burning quickly.

This process is great for quick cooking items including salmon, shrimp, duck and thin cuts of meats. Other items certainly can be tea smoked, but require some advanced cooking before smoking. Pork belly, ribs and chicken all taste great when tea smoked, but would need to be partially cooked before placing in the smoker, otherwise the aromatics would burn and leave behind a bitter taste.

The flavor combinations are endless and could include citrus, baking spices, chiles and fresh herbs. Different teas will give very different flavors. Black tea offers the strongest flavor available, Jasmine tea will provide a very floral fragrance and green teas will be light and should only be used on very mild proteins. Have fun with different mixes of teas and spices to create your own unique flavors and aromas.

Cassy Vires is the owner and chef of Home Wine Kitchen and Table.

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Tea-Smoked Salmon

The smoke from the tea leaves adds exotic flavor to a familiar dish. Get creative with the aromatics to create your own flavorcombinations.

Serves | 4 | Cure

Salad

2 cups kosher salt 2 cups light brown sugar 4 8-oz wild salmon fillets

2 cups assorted leafy herbs (mint, basil, arugula, parsley, etc.) salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ cup pistachios, toasted

foil. Add tea leaves, brown sugar, rice and aromatics. Place smoker over low heat and cover. Heat until smoke begins to release, ideally 120ºF. Place salmon fillets on a rack above the aromatics and cook, covered, for 10 minutes until medium-rare.

| Preparation – Cure | Combine kosher salt

| Preparation – Vinaigrette | Combine

and light brown sugar. Place salmon fillets in a nonreactive container and completely cover, top to bottom, with salt cure. Refrigerate 45 minutes. Remove salmon from salt cure and gently brush off mixture. Pat fillets down with paper towels until meat is dry.

vinegar, honey and mint in a blender and puree until smooth. In a slow, steady stream, add olive oil through the smoker’s feed tube while the motor is running. Set aside until ready to use.

Smoke ½ cup black tea leaves ½ cup light brown sugar ½ cup uncooked Jasmine rice 8 whole star anise 2 cinnamon sticks, crushed 1 orange, zested Vinaigrette ¼ cup rice wine vinegar ¼ cup honey 2 Tbsp fresh mint leaves ¾ cup olive oil

| Preparation – Smoke | Line the bottom of a wok or stove-top smoker with aluminum

| Preparation – Salad | Toss herbs with salt, pepper and vinaigrette. Place a small amount of salad on top of each salmon fillet and garnish with toasted pistachios.

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SEPTEMBER 2013

41

gadget a-go-go

apple peelers

Apple Machine PROS

The heaviest model tested, this solidly built apple machine made quick work prepping several types of apples. The depth of the peeling-blade adjusted more easily than the other machine. The spiral cut ran a bit thicker. Great directions and recipes, too.

CONS

This model comes with a suction base, which offers flexibility. Another model of this fine machine comes with a clamp in addition to the suction base. Though the clamp held the machine tightly to the table, the required edge placement limited work space. $40; Bertarelli Cutlery, 1927 Marconi Ave., The Hill, 314.664.4005, bertarellicutlery.com

written by Pat Eby Photography by Jonathan Gayman

OXO Good Grips Apple Divider

Cuisipro Apple Corer and OXO Swivel Peeler

PROS

PROS

This gadget requires peeling apples first with a paring knife or peeler, then centering the apple divider and pushing down hard to core and section apples easily and efficiently. Cuts easiest with smaller apples. A big Granny Smith needed extra oomph on the push. The pre-cut wedges sliced and diced quickly into smaller pieces for pies and salads. A helpful, economical tool.

Two revamped tools make life easier for apple lovers. The Cuisipro corer centers easily over the core. The oversized grip is great, with good leverage to deliver a clean, quick cut. A welldesigned release mechanism on the cutting shaft drops the core to the compost bucket with the flick of a lever. No tugging required.

CONS

Not a good solution when processing bushels of apples. $6.79; DiGregorio’s Italian Foods, 5200 Daggett Ave., The Hill, 314.776.1062, digregoriofoods.com

The OXO vertical swivel peeler removes the thinnest sliver of skin from the apples. It has comfortable grip and is easy on the hands, too.

Both tools are available in cherry red. No setup time and easy cleanup, as both are dishwasher safe.

CONS

Good for a few pies or apple crisps. Longer prep time and possible hand fatigue.

Corer: $9.95; Kitchen Conservatory Peeler: $8.99; World Market, multiple locations, worldmarket.com

My Perfect Kitchen’s Apple Peeler/Corer/ Slicer with Vacuum Base PROS

At just $20, it’s an economical choice for a machine. The solidly cast body of this peeler held fast to the counter via suction cup. Dark green and handsome, it looked great.

CONS

When the apple on the gripper fork met the corer/slicer blade, the shaft flexed, and forward progress halted. Delicious, Gala, Granny Smith and Pink Lady – it didn’t matter the kind, the slicer balked. Repositioning the apples helped and slicing resumed. The cores didn’t release as described in the directions and needed to be pulled off, with difficulty, by hand. $19.99; Bed Bath & Beyond, multiple locations, bedbathandbeyond.com

Che

ck o pag ut e

What to look for : Machine Vs. Manual. Processing 20 pounds or more of apples every fall?

Machine Setup. Adjusting blades and changing functions on machine

Invest in a machine that peels, cores and slices. The basic design, which has been around since the 1880s, slashes prep time and eliminates hand fatigue. For smaller apple projects, choose improved, ergonomic versions of hand-held corers, peelers and cutters to make work easier.

peelers requires a screwdriver and pliers. Peelers attach to counters or tables by suction cup or by a mechanical clamp. Suction cups work great on counter tops and allow the greatest flexibility in placement. Edges only for clamps, however.

Durability. Machines need a sturdy grooved shaft that turns without a

Clean-up. Peeling machines demand a methodical hand-washing and a pat-down with a soft towel, but that’s not all. You’ll need a blow dryer, as per manufacturers’ recommendations, to dry out the nooks and crannies and prevent rust. Hand tools? Most love the dishwasher.

hitch, a solid three-pronged gripper to hold fruits and sharp blades on the corer/slicer and on the peeler loop.

Ergonomics. Hand-held tools should grip comfortably. Choose longer corers with substantial handles for good leverage and a clean thrust. Oldfashioned vertical swivel peelers worked better than newer Y-peelers.

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Storage. Keep the boxes. Unwieldy machines with sharp blades make storage tough. The hand tools store tidily in a drawer.

26!

Peel apples for a pie, then check out our favorite pie-making accessories for pastry pros in this month’s What We’re Buying.

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Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2013

43

menu options

Greek Lemon-Orzo Soup

Story and recipe by Tory Bahn Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Avgolemono, a light, lemony, velvety, Greek soup, contains only a few simple ingredients – and each one plays a lead role. Its egg-thickened, chicken-stock base provides a rich and silky texture, and fresh lemon juice brightens the flavor. Then there is the perfect al dente bite of orzo pasta. With the addition of shredded, herb-roasted chicken breast, it becomes a complete meal.

Greek Lemon-Orzo Soup Serves | 6 to 8 | Roasted Chicken 1½ Tbsp fresh rosemary, finely chopped

1 tsp dried oregano 1 tsp salt ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper 4½

lbs chicken breasts, bone-in, skin on

3 lemons, sliced into rings about 1/8-inch thick 3 Tbsp grapeseed oil Lemon-Orzo Soup 8 cups chicken stock

1 cup orzo pasta

4 eggs, separated ½ cup fresh lemon juice salt and freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation – Roasted Chicken | Preheat oven to 400ºF. In a bowl, combine rosemary, oregano, salt and pepper and rub underneath the skin of each chicken breast. Gently place 2-3 slices of lemon under the skin of each chicken breast. Drizzle chicken with grapeseed oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast chicken for approximately 30 to 35 minutes, or until thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the breast registers 165ºF. Remove chicken from oven and let cool for at least 15 minutes.

Remove meat from bones, dice or roughly shred chicken and set aside.

| Preparation – Soup | In a large, heavybottomed pot or Dutch oven, bring stock to a boil and add orzo pasta. Reduce heat to simmer, cover and cook about 20 minutes.

While orzo is cooking, begin preparing eggs. In a medium bowl, whisk egg whites to medium peaks. Add egg yolks and lemon juice, whisking continuously.

constant stream, add hot stock to egg and lemon mixture, whisking constantly to prevent eggs from solidifying.

Add chicken to the soup pot and heat through.

Take soup off heat and add beaten mixture back into the pot, whisking to incorporate. Season to taste with salt and lemon juice as desired. Serve immediately with freshly ground black pepper.

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chef’s tips : Temper Tips. When tempering eggs into hot liquid, make sure all

ingredients are prepped and ready. Tempering eggs is easy, but requires focus and just-right temperatures to avoid scrambled eggs. Always add hot liquid slowly, constantly whisking.

Roasting Rule. Skin-on chicken might seem like unnecessary additional fat; however, it is important when roasting to help retain a juicy and flavorful chicken breast. The skin can still be

removed if you wish after cooking.

Speedy Soup. This dish is best served hot, as soon as it is finished.

It does not benefit from sitting over heat for an extended period of time. Aside from roasting the chicken, this is a quick-preparation soup. The beauty in this is that after the chicken is finished, you can have this dish on the table in about 15 minutes, essentially as much time as it takes to cook the orzo and temper in the eggs.

m a k e th e m ea

l: Mediterranean Sum mer Salad ○ Pan -Roasted Grouper ○ Gree k Lemon-Orzo Soup ○ Lim e Tart ○

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get hands-on: Join FEAST and Schnucks Cooking School on Wed., Sept. 25, at 6pm to make the dishes in this month’s menu. Tickets are just $40 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RSVP at schnuckscooks.com.

44

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SEPTEMBER 2013

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SEPTEMBER 2013

45

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Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2013

47

chris

olya chris bolyard breaks down a pig at sidney street cafe.

Grilled pork loin with ratatouille,focaccia, pork liver mousse, Mexican sage and a peach and onion agrodolce.

off the line

a chef de cuisine’s inspired journey forward Written by Brandon Chuang

|

photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2013

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chrisb u.s. highway 67 is much like any other midwestern highway.

Cars and trucks, moving back and forth along various swatches of expanse that stretch from Sabula, Iowa, to Presidio, Texas, seem frozen in place – the consequence of a rural landscape that is forever changing, yet perpetually the same: Fields. Trees. Barns. Fields.

And mile marker 301 is much like any other mile marker. It sits, staked along the eastern strip of the southbound road, reflectively green with the words “Wayne County, Missouri” emblazoned proudly across its metallic chest. It looks almost identical to mile marker 300, and most assuredly 302. But this particular mile marker, mile marker number 301 of U.S. Highway 67, is different. For it’s here, between the fields and trees and barns, that Chris Bolyard and the Law meet; it’s here that he gets to see firsthand what the interior of a Missouri State Highway Patrol car looks like.

heading down south to pick up a pig – hence, the coolers – but not just any pig. Bolyard is making the nearly four-hour trek to the Arkansas state line to bring home a heritage-breed Berkshire pig from Newman Farm in Myrtle, Mo. Beloved for its moist, fatty meat, Berkshires have long been considered some of the best pork money can buy, and Newman Farm has long been considered one of the best places to buy it. The national food cognoscenti will recognize David Chang and Mario Batali as some of Newman Farm’s more famous chef customers, but they won’t recognize Bolyard.

To them, he’s just some dude pulled over on the side of the road in a cooler-stuffed station wagon.

bistro there. But Bolyard has stayed rooted, happy in a situation that is not far from ideal.

“Kevin [is] like family to me,” Bolyard says about his tenure at Sidney Street. “He’s been amazingly supportive. He sent me to Spain to learn more about food and cooking. He trusts me with his kitchen, and I think it’s because, in many ways, Kevin and I are very similar. We both like to observe; we like to see what’s going on around us, and if something seems interesting, we try it.”

What’s interesting to Bolyard is meat. A few years ago, both he and Nashan were intrigued at the prospect of using whole animals at Sidney Street. Neither had ever butchered a whole animal before, but that didn’t stop the pair from ordering an entire pig and giving it a go. Bolyard immersed himself in the process, devouring instructional books and going so far as to stage at places like Nashville’s Porter Road Butcher and Publican Quality Meats in Chicago. Today, Sidney Street only uses whole animals, save for their beef (“I wish we had enough space for a cow”), and Bolyard is crazier than ever about butchering. It’s the only way to explain why a man would spend most of his day off driving, basically to another state, to slice up a pig and bring it home.

restaurant is roughly 250 pounds. Having already been processed, i.e., slaughtered, Bolyard immediately begins breaking the pig down into what are known, ominously in the industry, as primordial cuts: thighs (hams), belly (bacon), sides (ribs and loins), shoulders (pork butts), head (head). It’s the only way he can transport everything on ice back home in the coolers. With him is his small array of tools: a fillet/boning knife (for precision work), a cleaver (for dirty work), a mallet and hacksaw (yes, a mallet and hacksaw, for breaking through bone) and a scimitar (lovingly referred to by Bolyard’s friend as the “f*** you knife”).

olyard Bolyard does not get arrested, but he does get warned: the left lane is for passing only. As he falls back behind the wheel of his Suzuki Forenza, the two 128-quart coolers riding in the back make a short groan of protest. “He asked where I was going,” Bolyard deadpans about his miniinterrogation from the Show-Me State’s finest.

“I told him I’m a chef from St. Louis who’s heading down south to pick up a pig.”

Bolyard is indeed a chef from St. Louis who’s

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Living outside the spotlight is nothing new for Bolyard. As the chef de cuisine of St. Louis’ Sidney Street Cafe in Benton Park, he has long worked alongside its celebrated owner and executive chef, Kevin Nashan. While the story itself has been told many times – talented chef laboring quietly behind the scenes – Bolyard’s tale is different because of its length. He’s worked for Nashan for nearly a decade, playing right-hand man to a boss who collects James Beard nominations like Pokémon cards.

When it comes to food, chefs, by their nature, are a narcissistic bunch, and many in Bolyard’s position would’ve left to spread their own culinary gospel. An executive chef position here. A small

The Berkshire pigs at Newman Farm range in size, but the one Bolyard has lined up for the

As Bolyard works to break down the pig – and it is definitely work to saw through the flesh and bone of a 250-pound animal – he explains what attracted him to butchering.

“I’ve always enjoyed putting in a hard day’s work and being able to see my results, and with butchering, you can definitely see the results.

This pig will be turned into ribs, tenderloins, pork chops, etc. There’s something very calming about the process. It also gives me time to think: about work, my life, the future.”

He hasn’t always been so forward thinking – scratch that, he hasn’t always been so focused in his thinking. Growing up, Bolyard knew that he

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Inspired Food Culture

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51

what’s interesting to bolyard is meat. a few years ago, both he and nashan were intrigued at the prospect of using whole animals at sidney street.

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53

sboly wanted to cook. His father, a dental technician, whiled away the work week building fake molars and bicuspids in his basement. But on weekends, Bolyard’s father would take to the competitive barbecue circuit, son in tow, and participate in events all across the Midwest, including the venerable Memphis in May festival. The desire to cook has never been questioned; it was seared into Bolyard’s flesh, low and slow, over years barbecuing alongside his father. The real question has always been what to do with that passion.

“I never really had any direction,” Bolyard says about his early career path. “I didn’t have an end goal.”

Bolyard went to the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., because, well, he wanted to become a good cook, and the CIA was where people went to become good cooks. He returned home and found a job with Bill Cardwell at Cardwell’s at the Plaza, and everything seemed to be fitting into place.

Bolyard had wanted to become a chef, and there he was, CIA-trained and working for one of the most respected chefs in his hometown.

He adhered to this routine for years, even after moving on to work at Sidney Street. As time passed and Bolyard’s star continued to rise behind Nashan’s, people would often ask what he was still doing at the Benton Park restaurant.

Why hadn’t he moved on? If you skim through past interviews with Bolyard from that time, you’ll find his responses to always be the same in spirit: he still had much to learn from Nashan; there was more to grow and nurture at the restaurant; Sidney Street is his family. While he did, and does, believe in these responses, the young chef never gave the one answer that he knew, deep down, to be the truest. Chris Bolyard had absolutely no idea how to move on.

To have Bolyard explain it, his life, until recently, was one of unknowing and uncertainty; a Lost Boy in a culinary Neverland. But as he’s continued to work with Nashan, evolving from a sous chef into his current position as chef de cuisine, his path has become far more clear.

It was Nashan, himself an endurance athlete, who first got Bolyard interested in marathons and triathlons – in the focus and tangible results that one could discover in training for something like the Ironman.

“I work out now on a daily basis,” Bolyard notes about his routine. “It’s the first thing I do when I get up, and it sets the tone for the rest of my day. I’m apparently a glutton for punishment, because there’s definitely suffering in running and biking and cooking.”

would finally know exactly what he wanted to do and how to do it – and you’d be right. But apparently what Bolyard wants to do is build a time machine, because his goal is to work in Mayberry, circa 1952.

Bolyard is a classically trained chef who attended, arguably, the most prestigious culinary school in the country. He has worked under two of the city’s most well-known chefs and is currently the second-in-command at one of the city’s greatest restaurants. Nashan himself has continuously commended Bolyard in interviews and stories for playing a key role in Sidney Street’s evolution. He is, for all intents and purposes, the most famous non-executive chef in the city. So why is it that Bolyard wants to leave this all behind and start a butcher shop?

hrisbol Like many young chefs, Bolyard fell into the natural schedule of those in the industry: work 12 or more hours a day, go out and grab a few drinks with the crew, maybe grab something to eat – maybe a few more drinks – then finish the day with a couple hours of sleep. Get up. Repeat.

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If you strip Bolyard of his chef’s uniform, you’ll discover two distinct tattoos on his body. One, the Ironman logo – as in the insane endurance triathlon that consists of a 2.4-mile swim and 112-mile bike ride, capped off with a marathon – is carved into his calf. The other, a giant, barren tree with the name “Abigail” swirled into the bark of the trunk, hugs the entire right side of his upper body, its leafless limbs spindling and splaying towards the sky. By origin, tattoos are meant to tell a story, an indelible mark of meaning and import on the wearer’s life. The two tattoos that adorn Bolyard’s body are exactly that: bookmarks in a story that’s still being written.

Gone are the energy-sapping days of late-night socializing. It is, after all, virtually impossible to work in a hot kitchen all day, go out all night, and then wake up and run five or six miles before returning to an oven-for-an-office to begin anew. Instead, Bolyard has given up drinking, and substituted it with running, working and planning the next phase of his life with his wife, Abbie – as in the “Abigail” etched into his side – and their newborn baby girl, Betty. With this new direction, this new Bolyard, you would assume a new goal and path would emerge, that this talented chef

And not just any butcher shop, mind you, but an old-school butcher shop. A whole animal-style butcher shop, naturally – one that actually runs out of popular cuts, because there are only so many popular cuts on one animal.

“I’m really drawn to the idea of offering what I offer, but also educating people at the same time,” Bolyard says. “If we run out of rib-eyes, I want to be able to introduce the customer to a different option that they may not have even known to consider.”

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Inspired Food Culture

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55

i’ve always enjoyed putting in a hard day’s work and being able to see my results, and with butchering, you can definitely see the results. there’s something very calming about the process.

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Inspired Food Culture

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57

olyard but apparently what bolyard wants to do is build a time machine, because his goal is to work in mayberry, circa 1952.

chrisb Bolyard has drafted multiple versions of his business plan. In it, he details exactly what it is he wants to do: hormone-free and humanely raised meats, on-demand butchering, a continuously rotating selection of stocks and charcuterie to be supplemented, in the future, by pre-prepared meals, all courtesy of your friendly neighborhood CIA-trained butcher.

“We have a daughter now,” Bolyard explains, “and we plan on having more. I just want to be able to have the family life that I envisioned for myself, while still maintaining what it is I love about cooking.”

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Deep in the belly of Sidney Street Cafe is where Bolyard butchers his pig. Others have their hands in dissecting the various fish and fowl the restaurant serves, but the pig has always been left to Bolyard. On a large stainless-steel table, he cuts, scrapes and breaks the bone, muscle and sinew down into manageable, recognizable pieces.

“I usually have heavy metal music playing while I butcher,” Bolyard says. “It’s kind of soothing.”

Bolyard knows exactly what it is that has to be done to reach his goal of rising early to accomplish a hard day’s work in a sane amount of time; to be able to come home early enough to have dinner with your family; to know your customers, because they’re your neighbors; to begin to butcher and package pork chops for the Johnson’s dinner because it’s Tuesday and Mrs. Johnson is about to walk into the shop, and she always makes pork chops on Tuesdays.

There’s still much to do before he opens the butcher shop of his dreams, but for once,

This is the life Bolyard has envisioned for himself, a black-and-white occupation set in

the Technicolor of the modern world. There’s no doubt he’ll get there – the boy who grew up surrounded by meat, growing up to love being surrounded by meat – the commitment and drive and verve are all there. He’s in the process of securing financing, and he’s still got a few tricks up his sleeves to accomplish with his friend, Kevin Nashan. And as he finishes butchering and wrapping his Berkshire hog from Newman Farm, Chris Bolyard smiles. It’s the smile steeled by the knowledge that the road to his destination is, finally, straight and clear. And it’s only accessible from the left lane.

d

bolyar Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2013

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SEPTEMBER 2013

61

go gadget go!

edited by Liz Miller

five st. louis food bloggers share their favorite kitchen gadgets and recipes for how to use them in your kitchen.

Shannon Weber

Kimberly Henricks-Friedhoff

Malou perez-Nievera

Stefani Pollack

Stacy McCann

A Periodic Table aperiodictableblog.com

story, recipe and food photography by Shannon Weber

Favorite Gadget: Sur La Table 2.75-ounce Stainless-Steel Ice-Cream Scoop I never knew I needed a proper ice-cream scoop until I had one, and then I couldn’t believe I didn’t have it before. I use it for everything: cookies, muffins, cupcakes…anything that involves a portion. It’s phenomenal how things turn out. Some people get really frustrated when they’re trying to roll cookies or scoop muffins because some cook faster than others, some of them have more dough. If you have a uniform product, it looks good, so your presentation is better, but it also bakes a lot more evenly, so you get a better result.

Butternut Apple Muffins and Cinnamon Vanilla Glaze Butternut squash is often prepared in

peeled, cored and sliced

savory ways, but it really holds its own in

¼-inch thick

sweet dishes, too. When roasted, it has a

¼ cup light brown sugar

lighter texture than pumpkin, with a vibrant, golden glow. It has a subtle sweetness

Muffins

autumnal muffins and cakes; pairing it with

1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour

classic seasonal favorites such as apple

1½ cups cake flour

and cinnamon gives the mellow butternut a

1 Tbsp baking powder

chance to shine.

1¼

tsp ground cinnamon

½ tsp ground ginger ½ tsp kosher salt ½ cup unsalted butter, softened

fluffy, rich muffins. It allows the flavors to

1 cup granulated sugar

meld together overnight and hydrates the

½ cup light brown sugar

dry ingredients, giving muffins a balanced

4 eggs, at room temperature

texture throughout. Making them the night

butternut squash puree mixture

before is convenient, too; simply grab batter

(see above)

from the refrigerator and portion with your

½ tsp pure vanilla extract

ice cream scoop, and you have fresh-baked breakfast muffins with zero mess or effort.

3 cups confectioners’ sugar

3 tsp pure vanilla extract 9 Tbsp unsalted butter, melted

Squash 1¼ lbs butternut squash, cut into

1-inch cubes 1 Tbsp grapeseed oil or other flavorless oil

3 Tbsp hot water

| Preparation – Squash | Preheat oven to 400ºF. In a large bowl, combine butternut squash cubes and grapeseed oil; toss to coat thoroughly. Spread on a lipped half-sheet pan

Apple Filling 2 Tbsp unsalted butter

Cinnamon Vanilla Glaze

¾ tsp ground cinnamon

Serves | 16 to 18 |

4 medium Granny Smith apples, Shannon Weber

1 tsp ground cinnamon

similar to a carrot, which makes it ideal for

Resting the batter is crucial to preparing

Photography by

¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg

in a single layer, and roast for 35 to 40 minutes, until squash is tender and lightly browned,

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flipping halfway through cook time. Remove

spots or unmixed ingredients. Transfer batter

from oven and place in a food processor. Pulse

to an airtight storage container and let chill

until smooth. Set aside to cool.

overnight in the refrigerator.

| Preparation – Apple Filling | In a large

Preheat oven to 350ºF. Grease cups of a

skillet melt butter over medium heat. Chop

standard muffin tin. Using a spatula, fold in

apple slices into ½ -inch pieces and add

the apple-pie filling until evenly distributed.

to pan along with brown sugar, nutmeg

Use a 2¾-oz ice-cream scoop to portion

and cinnamon. Stir to coat apple pieces

batter into prepared muffin tin; fill the bowl

and incorporate ingredients, then let cook

of the scoop, then press it against the side

over medium heat for 8 to 10 minutes, until

of the bowl to remove any excess. Carefully

apples are tender but not mushy, stirring

eject the batter into the muffin tin, keeping

occasionally. Remove from heat and set

the flattened area flush to the bottom

aside to cool.

and the rounded portion facing upward.

Bake for 16 to 18 minutes, checking at the

| Preparation – Muffins | In a large bowl,

15-minute mark. Muffins are done when

whisk together both flours, baking powder,

a cake tester or small skewer comes out

cinnamon, ground ginger and salt. Set aside.

almost clean; a few crumbs are fine, but no

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8th Season

raw batter should be visible. Remove from In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with

oven and transfer to a wire rack to cool.

paddle attachment, add butter, granulated

Repeat with remaining batter.

sugar and brown sugar. Beat on high for 5 minutes, until light and fluffy. Scrape the

| Preparation – Cinnamon Vanilla Glaze|

sides of the bowl. Add eggs one at a time,

In a large bowl, add confectioners’ sugar,

beating for about 10 seconds after each

cinnamon, vanilla and melted butter. Whisk

addition. Scrape the sides of the bowl again;

together to combine. Add hot water, 1 Tbsp

beat for another 10 seconds. Add butternut

at a time, until glaze has reached desired

squash puree mixture and vanilla, and beat

consistency. Use immediately.

on medium speed until incorporated, about 20 seconds. Scrape sides of the bowl and

| To Serve | Transfer glaze to a small bowl,

beat for another 10 seconds.

deep enough to allow space for dunking muffins. Hold each muffin by the base and

With the mixer on low speed, add flour

turn over, dunking the top portion into the

mixture in three parts, scraping the bowl

glaze. Lift out and dunk a second time. Lift

between additions; the entire process should

out again, allow excess to drip off. Rotate

take no longer than 1 minute. Remove bowl

your wrist slightly and swivel the muffin until

from the stand, and use the spatula to work

it is right-side up again; set onto a serving

the batter, scraping down the sides and up

tray. Space muffins slightly apart from one

through the bottom to ensure there are no dry

another to avoid glaze touching. Serve.

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50+LocalFoodVendorsEveryWeek BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2013

63

go gadget go!

Shannon Weber

Kimberly Henricks-Friedhoff

Malou perez-Nievera

Stefani Pollack

Stacy McCann

Rhubarb and Honey rhubarbandhoney.com story, recipe and food photography by Kimberly Henricks-Friedhoff

Favorite Gadget: Fagor Duo 10-quart 18/10 Stainless-Steel Pressure Cooker/Canner We use it probably once a week to make something for dinner. The first thing we made in it – we had some beef short ribs, which typically take a couple of hours in the oven because they’re a tougher cut of meat. I think we had our beef short ribs done in about 45 minutes. It was an epiphany. This thing does work! You can cook a meal fairly quickly in an evening, and you’re not spending that much time in the kitchen. We fell in love with it. I’m a huge convert to the pressure cooker. I sing its praises to many people.

Braised Kale Salad Pressure cookers aren’t just for meat. This braised kale salad is a robust example of an alternative use for this indispensable kitchen gadget. Combining hearty kale and carrots with just a few other simple ingredients and a small amount of time in a pressure cooker, this beautiful, delicious fall dish will be on your table in no time.

Serves | 6 | 1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 large white onion, peeled, halved and thinly sliced 3 large garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped 10 oz kale, washed, roughly chopped and de-stemmed

2 2 ¼ 2

medium carrots, shredded oz red cabbage, shredded tsp red pepper flakes cups vegetable broth

| Preparation | In a 10-quart pressure cooker, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add onion and sauté for 5 minutes, until onion begins

to soften. Add garlic and continue to sauté until onion begins to brown and caramelize, approximately 10 minutes, stirring frequently to ensure the garlic doesn’t burn.

Add kale, carrots, red cabbage, red pepper flakes and vegetable broth to pressure cooker. Stir together with onions and garlic until thoroughly combined. Make sure to leave at least 1/3 of head space at the top of the pressure cooker.

Increase heat to high. Place lid on pressure cooker and lock into place, then bring to high pressure. Once high pressure is achieved (as noted by the pressure indicator), decrease heat to low and maintain pressure for 20 minutes.

Remove pressure cooker from heat. Release pressure by allowing pressure cooker to cool for approximately 10 to 15 minutes, or by activating the quick release valve. If using the valve, ensure the steam end of the pressure cooker is pointed away from you.

Confirm the pressure cooker is completely depressurized by noting that the pressure indicator has dropped. Remove lid from pressure cooker, tilting it away from you as some residual steam will be present. Stir reduced kale salad together. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.

Note: Always read the manufacturer’s

directions for your specific pressure cooker.

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SEPTEMBER 2013

65

go gadget go!

Shannon Weber

Kimberly Henricks-Friedhoff

Malou perez-Nievera

Stefani Pollack

Stacy McCann

Skip to Malou skiptomalou.net story, recipe and food photography by Malou Perez-Nievera

Favorite Gadget: KitchenAid KHB2351OB 3-Speed Hand Blender In Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry Cookbook, he says, ‘When in doubt, strain everything.’ For me it’s, ‘When in doubt, use an immersion blender.’ For instance, my husband doesn’t like liver. But when I hide it in the sauce he doesn’t even know it’s there. When my kids were growing up they didn’t like veggies in their food, but I use the immersion blender and they disappear into soup and it’s rich, flavorful and creamy and they didn’t know it has broccoli or asparagus.

Pan-Seared Lamb Chops in Tamarind and Lemongrass Vinaigrette Reduction Tamarind is tart, slightly sour and available in most specialty markets and Asian grocery stores. In this dish, it adds a kick to the vinaigrette, balanced by the more mellow sweetness of lemongrass. Paired with brown rice and seasonal veggies, these lamb chops make a lovely autumn meal.

| Preparation – Vinaigrette | In a

Serves | 3 to 4 |

pan over medium heat, heat oil. Season both sides of lamb generously with salt and pepper.

Tamarind and lemongrass vinaigrette

1 stalk lemongrass (use only the soft part, located in the middle of the lower stem) 1 tsp tamarind powder 5 cloves garlic 2 scallion stalks (use only the white portion) 1-2 tsp light soy sauce 2 tsp peppercorns Lamb chops

2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil 4-6 lamb chop cuts Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ cup water 1 piece (quarter-size) yellow rock sugar Garnish

½ cup vegetable oil 2 scallion stalks (green stem portions) ½ cup peanuts, chopped 1-2 tsp light soy sauce

medium-sized bowl, combine lemongrass, tamarind powder, garlic, scallions, soy sauce and peppercorns. Using your immersion blender, blend all ingredients together until smooth. Set aside.

| Preparation – Lamb Chops | In a heavy

When the pan is hot, add meat, pressing tightly to the surface of the pan to get a good sear. Let cook 4 minutes.

When the lamb turns golden brown, turn meat and repeat searing process.

Discard drippings and leave a Tbsp of oil in the pan. Add the vinaigrette and ½ cup water. Add yellow rock sugar (or white sugar). Let simmer. Put meat back in the pan.

Let simmer for 6 to 8 minutes or until sauce is reduced to almost half.

| Preparation – Garnish | In a heavy pan over high heat, heat vegetable oil. Add green portion of scallions to fry. Remove and put them on a paper towel.

Arrange lamb chops on a plate, sprinkle with peanuts and drizzle with soy sauce.

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SEPTEMBER 2013

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go gadget go!

Shannon Weber

Kimberly Henricks-Friedhoff

Malou perez-Nievera

Favorite Gadget: Pourfect Mixing Bowls

Stefani Pollack

Stacy McCann

Cupcake Project cupcakeproject.com story and recipe by Stefani Pollack

I am a really, really messy baker. When I bake, my kitchen is just covered in flour.

I always have this issue when I pour something into the stand mixer – there’s not a spout on the mixing bowl, so it doesn’t pour directly and ends up going all over the place. But this bowl…when you go to pour, it kind of locks onto the mixing bowl. The way the spout is designed, it’s not just a normal spout. It’s a spout, but it’s set up in a way that it hooks into the top of the mixing bowl so when you pour, it’s completely stable, and it aims it right into the stand mixer.

Plantain Cupcakes These brown sugar, spiced rum and fried plantain cupcakes are a Latin-inspired cross between bananas foster and coffee cake. The cupcakes are topped with brown sugar rum glaze and homemade sweet plantain chips.

Yield | 18 cupcakes | Fried Plantains and Chips ¼ cup unsalted butter 2 yellow plantains

2 Tbsp brown sugar 2 tsp cinnamon Plantain Cupcake 1½ cups all-purpose flour ½ tsp salt 1 tsp baking powder ½ tsp baking soda 1½ cups brown sugar ¾ cup mashed, fried plantains

(see recipe below) 2 eggs 1 cup vegetable oil

1 tsp vanilla ½ cup spiced rum ½ cup milk

cupcake liners Brown-Sugar Rum Glaze 3 Tbsp unsalted butter ½ cup brown sugar ¼ cup spiced rum 2 Tbsp heavy whipping cream 1 cup sifted powdered sugar ¼ tsp salt

| Preparation – Fried Plantains/Chips | Preheat oven to 425ºF. Melt butter in a large skillet on medium-low heat. Peel plantains and slice into ¼-inch thick slices. Add plantain slices to skillet and cook until bottoms turn golden, about 5 minutes. Flip and continue to cook for another few minutes. Add brown sugar to the skillet and stir to coat slices.

Remove from heat. In a food processor, combine 1 cup cooked plantains to yield ¾ cup mashed plantains. Set aside. Place remaining slices in a single layer on a parchment-lined cookie sheet and sprinkle with cinnamon.

Bake for 8 minutes. Flip and bake plantains for another 8 minutes, until exteriors harden.

| Preparation – Plantain Cupcakes| Preheat oven to 350ºF. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together flour, salt, baking powder and baking soda. In another medium mixing bowl, mix brown sugar, mashed plantains and eggs. Mix in vegetable oil, vanilla, rum and milk. Slowly add dry ingredients to wet ingredients, mixing until just combined. Fill cupcake liners ¾ full. Bake for 18 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center of a cupcake comes out dry.

| Preparation – Brown Sugar Rum Glaze | In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt butter. Add brown sugar and stir continuously until just boiling. Add rum and stir well. Grab the saucepan handle, and tilt saucepan slightly over the flame of a gas burner to ignite rum. (Be sure to lean back from flames.) Continue to stir until flames subside. Stir in heavy whipping cream until just combined. Remove from heat. Stir in powdered sugar and salt. Spread glaze over cooled cupcakes and top with a plantain chip. food Photography by

J. Pollack Photography

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Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2013

69

go gadget go!

Shannon Weber

Kimberly Henricks-Friedhoff

Malou-perez Nievera

Stefani Pollack

Stacy McCann Every Little Thing everylittlethingblog.com story, recipe and food photography

by Stacy McCann

Favorite Gadget: OXO Chef’s Good Grips Mandoline Slicer I love the mandolin because it encourages me to eat my veggies. I always try to eat a variety of produce with meals, but sometimes the prep work is daunting.

The mandolin makes quick work of slicing, in a variety of shapes and sizes that can easily be sautéed, roasted, grilled or simply eaten raw. With the mandolin around, there’s never an excuse to skip the healthy stuff!

Raw Autumn Salad This salad combines fresh spring and late summer flavors with early fall vegetables, easing in the season change just as softly as September does. Beets and carrots might be available all summer long, but are fabulous during September, and Brussels sprouts take this salad swiftly from summer to fall. The entire plate pairs the natural sweetness of vegetables with salty, creamy Feta cheese and crunchy pine nuts. Try golden or multicolored beets (seen here) to prevent the color of red beets from bleeding onto the rest of your colorful ingredients.

3 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 lemon, juiced ½ shallot, minced salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ cup pine nuts 1 8-oz block Feta cheese

| Preparation | Using a mandoline slicer, slice beets, onion and carrot crosswise on thinnest setting (1/8-inch preferred). Add to medium-sized bowl.

Thinly slice Brussels sprouts by hand and add to vegetable bowl. In another small bowl, whisk olive oil, lemon juice, shallot, salt and pepper until well blended. Add Serves | 4 | enough dressing to just coat vegetables 2 small beets, peeled (golden or multi- and toss lightly. colored preferred) Portion salad onto four small salad plates. ½ large red onion, peeled Top with pine nuts and slices of Feta 2 large carrots, peeled 1 lb Brussels sprouts, thinly sliced cheese, and serve.

Visit feastSTL.com for extra recipes and photos from each of the food bloggers.

check it out!

Feast extra

Inspired Food Culture

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blogger q&a Shannon Weber

Kimberly Henricks-Friedhoff

Malou perez-Nievera

Stefani Pollack

Stacy McCann

learn more about our featured food bloggers

Shannon Weber

A Periodic Table aperiodictableblog.com How did your blog come about? I started it two years ago. I quit my job after my daughter was born because I wanted to stay home with her. I was a writer and graphic designer at my former job and I didn’t want to lose those skills…I wanted to keep writing. I also really wanted to teach myself to cook a little bit better. I knew the basics but I didn’t know how to do everything correctly because I hadn’t had enough practice. I don’t think you always get that practice when you’re not in a perpetual state of “dinner party.” Where do you draw inspiration for recipe development? I’m a cookbook addict. I’m always flipping through new ones, old ones, everything in between. Retro, ‘60s, then we’ve got the brand new ones. A lot of it is what I feel like making. It’s personal in the way that I never make anything I wouldn’t eat. I draw a lot of inspiration from my food blogger friends. I think you tend to build off of those ideas and they build off yours. I build off what I see around me. Are you drawn more to sweet or savory recipes? I love baking. I love that it’s so science-y...that it’s exact. Precision is fascinating to me. I always wonder who made the first cake…how did you figure that out? It’s not easy, but then it’s so easy. Right now I’m trying to learn the science behind bread making. It’s equal parts easy and difficult. It’s cool to wrap your head around baking. Savory is cool for the exact opposite reason because it’s so free-for-all. You get to do what you want. There’s a freedom there you don’t always get with baking, because with baking you sort of have freedom within the confines of what will work. Where do you shop for ingredients? I try to source ingredients from the best place to get those ingredients. I shop at Dierbergs (I’m like a seventh generation Dierbergs person; it’s the only place my mom will shop) for everyday grocery runs. I love Whole Foods or Trader Joe’s for specialty. I love farmers’ markets for produce...Soulard is one of my favorites but it’s a drive for me because I live in O’Fallon, Mo. Kirkwood Farmers’ Market is one of my favorites. Occasionally I’ll go to the Lake St. Louis Farmers’ Market, which is really close to me. What is your hope for the future of your blog? I hope I keep having the readers I have, who are just so willing to participate and be a community of people

who just love food and are so encouraging and very loyal. I hope to keep being inspired by them as much as they seem to be inspired by me. I hope it goes wherever it’s supposed to go. I didn’t start the blog to be famous or to get noticed; I sort of just started it for me.

I guess in two years I hope it’s still about what I want to do and in two years it doesn’t seem like a burden, because right now it’s still really fun. I think that’s the most important part, you want to be doing it for the right reasons.

Whatever it is in two years, I hope I’m still having a great time doing it.

Kimberly Henricks-Friedhoff Rhubarb and Honey rhubarbandhoney.com

How did your blog come about? I started two blogs back in 2007: Everybody Loves Cheese, with commentary on food, and Adventures in Eating Locally, documenting what I got from my CSA and what I was making from it. Around 2010 I got tired of maintaining two separate blogs. I also started doing a lot more recipe developing, so I just merged it all into one. I know it’s kind of cliché to put two ingredients together and have that be your blog name, because a lot of people do that, but I like both of those things.

I adore rhubarb – a lot of people don’t, you either love it or hate it – and my husband and I use a lot of local honey in almost everything we make. Where do you draw inspiration for recipe development? Absolutely everywhere. I just love food. I think about my next meal while I’m having my current meal.

Just walking through the grocery store I get ideas. One of my favorite places is The Natural Way, a whole foods store in Webster Groves with another location near us in Fenton. I went there to buy some vitamins the other day and they had quinoa flakes. I love quinoa! The flakes are similar to oatmeal. I think I’m going to try to make some sort of banana quinoa flake muffin with them. Any challenges along the way? My biggest challenge is a personal one, and it’s committing to posting more. And on the recipe development side, it has to be perfect. I don’t want somebody to be upset that they tried something I made and it didn’t work for them. Where do you shop for ingredients? I am a huge proponent of local and sustainable, which is why I love Tower Grove Farmers’ Market and Schlafly Farmers’ Market. I’m terrible about farmers’

markets because I want to buy everything… it’s a little overwhelming because I try not to overbuy. I hate throwing away food. Farmers’ markets can be my downfall; I really have to limit myself. As soon as I step foot at Tower Grove Farmers’ Market or Schlafly Farmers’ Market the ideas start flowing. I tend to shop at Whole Foods for the bulk of our staples – I’m a big fan of the bulk isle. The Natural Way is another great place to get staple-type items. What is your hope for the future of your blog? I’m a big believer in whole, real, minimally processed foods. We don’t do a lot of processed food in our house. I have a bachelor’s degree in nursing and I now work in medical publishing, so I’ve always had nutrition as a basis. The older I get the more I research nutrition and it’s actually starting to be a huge focus. I think the future of Rhubarb and Honey will be starting to make accessible, delicious food for people with that nutrition angle. The blog is a constantly evolving piece of work. It speaks to who I am. If you read it, you’ll get a pretty good idea of who I am and what I like. I’m happy that it comes across the way it does. How would you describe the food blogging community in St. Louis? Everyone is incredibly supportive of one another. We’re St. Louis, we’re a biglittle town, but we’re a huge food city now.

Our food is phenomenal. We’re a small food blogging community compared to New York and L.A., but we’re all very happy when one of us finds success somewhere. We’re the food ambassadors of St. Louis.

Malou Perez-Nievera Skip to Malou skiptomalou.net

Give us a snapshot of your background. I was born in the Philippines and I graduated from the University of the Philippines. That’s where I was married, where all my kids were born. We moved from the Philippines to San Diego in 2000, but basically before that we came back and forth to the U.S. for vacation. We moved to St. Louis a little more than year ago when my husband was invited to join Sigma-Aldrich. We were empty nesters so we said, “Let’s take the plunge and move to St. Louis!’ We don’t have any family here; we don’t know anyone, so it has been an interesting ride. St. Louis has been very good to me. They’ve embraced me and I’ve embraced the city so much, too. My name is Maria Louisa.

I was born on the Feast Day of Saint Louis. I went to school at Saint Louis High School in the Philippines. I feel at home here. How did your blog come about? The blog was my baby in San Diego.

I started it three and a half years ago when my oldest daughter first left for college and I realized if and when my other two children left it would just be my husband and I – that there would be a big void in my life. The blog brought me to my accidental career. In San Diego it was more of a hobby. I’d do it whenever I could, but now it’s more of a career. I focus on modern Asian cooking recipes for home cooks, because that’s how I present myself.

I’m a home cook. Any challenges along the way? When I started blogging I was intimidated by all the blogs out there. Who would read my blog? I stay as close and as true to who I am as possible. You can see the growth of my blog from day one to now. My pictures were so brown and dull at first…it’s amazing how it’s changed. I think my weakness as a home cook is what makes me who I am now.

There are bloggers out there who graduated as chefs. I stand proud as being a home cook and a mom who brought up her kids cooking our daily meals. That’s my strength. Where do you shop for ingredients? I love going to Soulard Farmers’ Market. For my Asian flavorings I love going to Seafood City on Olive. Since I live in Lafayette Square, Jay’s International is only one exit away from me on Grand. I love getting seafood at Bob’s Seafood, Seafood City and Olive Farmer’s Market. What is your hope for the future of your blog?

I teach cooking classes at Dierbergs (lots of locations around St. Louis), Whole Foods and Kitchen Conservatory. My classes are well attended, but I would like to have bigger audiences. I really enjoy teaching and cooking in front of people – I feel like it’s blogging, only the live version. With blogging, you get a thrill reading comments from people, but cooking in front of people, when they taste your food, you get an instant connection and response.

Stefani Pollack Cupcake Project cupcakeproject.com

How did your blog come about?

It started in 2007.

Some good friends were getting married and they wanted cupcakes for their wedding. We were having dinner and they were talking about how much money it was

Let’s Eat Pork To d d G e i s e rT Fa r m s Natural raised Pork

beyond pasta and the occasional macaroni and cheese. When I had time to devote to it, and had my own kitchen and my own space that I wasn’t sharing with anybody I felt like I could take charge of things. I started going to farmers’ markets, bringing home what I bought and experimenting with cooking in the kitchen. The past couple of years have been taking recipes, not changing them a whole lot, but experimenting with different things. Maybe changing a little bit here, a little bit there. Just recently, in the past year, I’ve started actually making up my own stuff. Learning more about flavor profiles… what flavors work together, what foods work together. Where do you shop for ingredients? I live in Edwardsville, Ill., so I go to the Goshen Farmers’ Market on Main Street in Edwardsville. That’s grown since I moved here. I try to go there weekly. I also subscribe to a CSA, Three Rivers Community Farm. Last year I featured their CSA on my blog for the entire summer and did a recipe with them each week. I decided to sign up for a half-subscription this year because I love their food so much and they’re awesome people.

They’re in Illinois as well, but they come to all the markets around St. Louis. My other favorite is the Schlafly Farmers’ Market. I try to go Wednesdays after work if I can. It has all of the best purveyors in one place – and you can drink beer while you walk around. How have you seen the blog grow? I think when it started to push me more into the kitchen.

It probably was a year and half ago that I kind of switched gears from trying really simple recipes from Rachel Ray and Martha Stewart to searching for more elevated cooking techniques to kind of challenge myself. That’s when I realized it was really helping me learn more about food and learn more about what I was eating, what I was cooking and pushing me to work harder. I think a lot of people blog but they don’t necessary move forward in it. I realized it was important to me when it made me try harder cooking techniques. The Three Rivers CSA series really helped me express how much I love the local food scene and the purveyors who sell food here. What is your hope for the future of your blog? I want to keep cooking. Cooking is sort of like riding a bike. You don’t do it for awhile and then when you do, you’re home again. Really my goal is to write more of my own recipes.

I want blog posts to be anecdotal, to be about me and where I’m coming from. I want Stacy McCann to keep trying more elevated recipes and Every Little Thing creating more of my own. How would you everylittlethingblog.com describe the food blogging community in St. Louis? The other food bloggers in this How did your city are awesome. They’re so, so welcoming, blog come about? creative and so different from one another.

I’m originally from When I first moved here Twitter was my Michigan and I lifeline. I started talking to a lot of people moved [to St. Louis] on Labor Day of 2010. once I realized they had food blogs. They were a big reason I became involved in the I started the blog before I moved here…originally it was a music food scene here. Making friends with them blog. The name comes from Bob Marley’s lyric pulled me in and made me feel like a part of the community in St. Louis in general. I hardly “Every little thing is gonna be alright”. After knew anyone when I moved here and that I launched it I felt like I didn’t know enough they so easily welcomed me in felt good. It about music and couldn’t add anything to music reporting. I started experimenting with helped make me feel more confident about cooking. Until that point I hadn’t cooked much writing, blogging and cooking. going to be to get these cupcakes, and I was just like, “I’ll bake your cupcakes for you!”

I had never baked a cupcake before and I really thought they’d say no, but they said sure. I had nine months before their wedding and I decided I better get really good at baking cupcakes so I could do an awesome job. Every week leading up to the wedding, for nine months, I baked them a different cupcake flavor. I started the blog to keep track of the flavors. At first the only people reading it were basically this couple, and the only comments on the blog were their reactions to the cupcakes. It just grew from there and blossomed. Where do you draw inspiration for recipe development? At this point anything I see could possibly be a cupcake. Anything I taste…I wonder how it would be in a cupcake. Having a cupcake blog, if I’m going to try something, I’m going to try it in a cupcake. What’s the response been from readers? It’s humbling, phenomenal, exciting…it gives you a reason to bake because you know you’re really affecting someone’s life, even though it’s a small thing.

When I make a recipe that somebody’s been looking for, maybe for years, and they find it through me…in what other kind of job would you get such positive feedback like that every day? It feels so good. How have you seen the blog grow? It has changed so dramatically since the beginning. In the beginning it was just about my friends and now it’s about so much more. It’s a business.

I’m still looking at ingredients that are fun and things I like, I still try to keep true to myself, what I like, what I’m drawn to, but in terms of the design of it I’m thinking about what’s going to draw in readers. Also, a story about my blog is kind of incomplete without talking about [my husband] Jonathan [Pollack]. He is such a huge part of it. We discuss together what the look is going to be and he’ll take the photos. I always have to be there when he takes the photos because I have strong opinions and we’ll go back and forth about what it should look like. We work together really well. The photos are so important, so I feel like his role in my blog is completely integral to its success. What is your hope for the future of your blog?

It’s kind of been an adventure the entire way.

The goal is to always be developing new recipes and share them with new people.

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low impact,

High Design St. Louis architects build green restaurants from the ground up Written by Brandi Wills photography by Demond Meek

thinking inside the box On Thurs., Dec. 6, 2012, John Burse, principal at Mackey Mitchell Architects, got a call from his friend and local landscape architect and planner, Jim Fetterman, that went something like this: Fetterman: Have you heard about the Washington University Sustainable Land Lab competition? They’re looking for sustainable design projects to be built on vacant lots in Old North St. Louis. Winners get $5,000 in seed money and a two-year land lease to implement the projects. So what are you submitting?

Burse: I don’t know. When’s the deadline?

Fetterman: Monday.

Burse: Well, then, we better get to work.

Four days later, Burse and Fetterman submitted their original plans for Bistro Box, a café and culinary incubator to be built with used shipping containers. Bistro Box was one of four winners chosen in April 2013 from 48 proposed Sustainable Land Lab projects. The concept is now on its way to becoming a reality.

The restaurant, planned for the vacant lot at 1303 Montgomery St. in Old North, will be built using five 8-by-40-foot cast-off shipping containers: one for the kitchen; one for the entryway, bar and restrooms; and three for the dining area.

“There are countless shipping containers piling up, in part, because it’s more expensive to ship them back to Asia than to build new containers in their respective countries of origin,” Burse says about his building material of choice. “The containers offer a strong, durable, available and potentially low-energy building material.

While there are certainly complexities involved in using them, we think repurposing them offers a unique opportunity to make a creative and memorable destination.”

Creating this project from scratch allows the builders to make significant, sustainable building decisions, especially in the area of

Jim Fetterman (behind) local landscape architect and planner and John Burse (front) principal at Mackey Mitchell Architects.

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SEPTEMBER 2013

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energy use. Once constructed, the facility will utilize a combination of geothermal energy and heat recycling for heating and cooling of the space and hot water.

“Geothermal, or ground source, is a heating and cooling system that pumps heat to or from the ground,” Burse says. “In the summer, the system uses the Earth as a heat sink, and in the winter as a heat source. While such systems are a little more expensive to implement, we are intrigued with geothermal’s efficiency, cleanliness and operating costs. We are interested in heat recovery systems because the technology uses a counterflow heat exchanger to harvest heat from our exhaust ventilation from within the space to temper fresh air coming into Bistro Box. So the system would help to introduce fresh air, improve thermal comfort and promote efficient energy use.

Essentially, we are using the heat from our exhaust air to warm the building. Pretty cool.”

Restaurants are gateways to the community, and this project will have an impact throughout the surrounding area.

Additionally, the kitchen will be outfitted with high-rated Energy Star appliances and the dining room will be furnished with custom-designed, repurposed tables donated by local furniture design firm Mwanzi Co., and nontoxic finishes and green cleaning products will be used for improved air quality.

But the project isn’t just about creating a sustainably built restaurant. Its significance reaches much farther. “Restaurants are gateways to the community, and this project will have an impact throughout the surrounding area,” Burse says. “The land [where Bistro Box will be located] is underused and fallow, and it needs to be returned to economic vitality.”

The team behind Bistro Box hopes to improve the economy of the neighborhood by partnering with nearby businesses to source materials and ingredients and elevating the profile of Old North through word-of-mouth and collaborations.

Bistro Box renderings courtesy of John Burse and Tom Young of Mackey Mitchell Architects.

“Partnerships are very important to this project,” Burse says. “We want to [start] a dialogue about where our food comes from and how it shapes our lives. There is a neighboring urban farm that we hope to source produce from. And we’re cultivating a relationship with The Haven of Grace, a residential facility for young pregnant women, through which we hope to provide jobs and training to the residents that will help them work toward a better future.”

Bistro Box is currently recruiting investors and amassing donated materials and in-kind donations from architecture and design firms.

When the project reaches 75 percent of its needed funding, it will launch a Kickstarter campaign to raise the remaining funds. Burse says the current goal is for a spring 2014 opening.

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solar-lit skyline The New Moon Room, a 2,100-square-foot bar and event space, recently opened atop the eighthfloor roof of the Moonrise Hotel in The Loop.

The newest addition to the popular nightlife spot offers bottle service, small plates and incredible views of St. Louis. But what makes this particular venue unique is the solar-panel roof that covers it.

“This is the first restaurant, or normally occupied public space, we know of in the country that has an active solar-panel roof,” says Marc Lopata, president and principal engineer at Microgrid Solar, the contractor responsible for designing and building the roof. “This is not solar panels mounted on the roof. The solar panels are the roof. These all-glass, frameless solar panels are a fairly new technology. The semi-transparent solar panels allow light to pass through them, so the roof creates very distinct, natural lighting for The New Moon Room, whether that is sunlight or moonlight. This technique hasn’t been duplicated in any other restaurant space in the country.”

Microgrid has collaborated with Moonrise Hotel owner Joe Edwards on a number of solar projects since 2010, but this is by far the most forward thinking.

“Joe Edwards is a believer in advanced design, sustainability and cost-effective solutions,” Lopata says. “The solar roof fits with Joe’s goals of being an industry leader and creating fun and exciting places for people to visit and meet.”

For Joe Edwards, integrating solar power into his properties is an investment in responsible energy use, plain and simple.

“It looks good and it really works,” Edwards says. “It was marvelous to see the amount of energy going into the grid. Solar really is the future, but it’s just one way to make a difference. It all adds up.”

The solar-panel roof complements the sleek, modern design of the room, which is filled with space-age furnishings and is given shape by glass walls and sliding doors that lead to the hotel’s

Marc Lopata, president of Microgrid Solar.

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existing Rooftop Terrace Bar. Aesthetics aside, its primary purpose is energy production.

“The solar array sustains the electricity needs of the two rooftop spaces,” Lopata says. “They power all the rooftop equipment and needs for the spaces, plus the rooms on the seventh floor of the building when the restaurant isn’t open for business. That includes the lighting, cooling, computers, sound systems, bar equipment and the rotating moon.

The hotel will reduce its electrical expense by about $4,500 per year, which will increase yearly as electricity rates increase.”

In addition to Microgrid’s work with Edwards, the company has installed solar panels atop a handful of local restaurants, including Frazer’s in Benton Park and Schlafly Bottleworks in Maplewood.

Lopata estimates that it will take The Moonrise less than five years for the roof to pay for itself in cost savings, but sustainability is a long-term investment in terms of financial and environmental gain.

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past is present Tom Niemeier, owner at SPACE, LLC in The Grove, has helped a number of prominent St. Louis restaurant owners implement green design practices in existing spaces. Clients include Niche, Pastaria, Franco, Robust Wine Bar, Amigos Cantina , Bar Les Freres and the newly opened Tree House Vegetarian Restaurant.

“Sustainable design applies much the same way for restaurants as it applies to other building projects,” Niemeier says. “We use strong, longlasting materials and finishes that are often made of recycled materials, such as steel or glass. If our designs hold up well over time and the restaurant prospers, this is the best of all sustainability practices.”

Niemeier notes that new restaurants moving into former restaurant spaces allow business owners to reuse infrastructure, which saves time, energy and materials. His work with steakhouse Prime 1000 in Downtown St. Louis illustrates the proper balance between reuse and redesign.

“Prime 1000 was the old Kitchen K, but it certainly looks different,” he says. “We reused the kitchen and bar die wall and the undulating ribbon that tied the space together. We even reused the existing pendant lights by relocating all of [them] to be above the bar like a cloud, and then we designed and fabricated new lights for the other areas. Everything else about the space looks different, but it is all cosmetic. Prime 1000 is over 5,000 square feet, and it was reworked for about $250,000. That’s a low restaurant construction number, and the space looks great.”

Sustainability as a cost-cutting approach to construction is an important factor that can’t be overlooked. But while restaurant owners sometimes save money by reusing existing fixtures and finishes, they also keep those materials out of landfills. Niemeier points to his client Adam Tilford, co-owner of Mission Taco Joint, Milagro Modern Mexican and Tortillaria, as a prime example of a restaurant owner balancing environmental responsibility with the bottom line.

Tom Niemeier, owner of SPACE, LLC.

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“At all our restaurants we took over existing restaurant spaces,” Tilford says. “One of the most sustainable things we did was not gutting them and starting from scratch.

When possible, we used existing walls, trim, plumbing, fixtures, equipment, etc. While this might not be very exciting, it was very effective at not only reducing waste but also had a large financial impact on our build-out, keeping our opening costs down quite a bit.”

Tilford says the entry foyers at both Milagro and Tortillaria sacrificed valuable square footage but were necessary to help decrease heating and cooling loss when doors open. At Mission Taco Joint, all the windows on the west side of the building were replaced with Low-E tinted windows, which had a tremendous effect on energy loss. Upcycled barn wood was used to accent the interiors of Milagro and material from an old garage was made into seating for Mission.

“At Milagro, my younger brother, Nathan, and I made several trips to a 100-year-old oak barn that had actually blown down near Ste. Genevieve,” Tilford says. “That wood was used to clad several walls and the entry foyer at

The very best sustainable practices are reusing or repurposing buildings.

We have an enormous stock of beautiful existing buildings in St. Louis.

Milagro. It really brought a lot of warmth to a rather commercial feeling space.”

At Mission Taco Joint, the Tilfords took another approach. “We wanted Mission to have a more urban, industrial feel,” Tilford says. “I found a guy on Craigslist who was selling his old garage

and sterile, and nobody wants to eat in a space like that. Our job is to figure out ways to make spaces comfortable, visually and in ambiance in general. You can do a lot of that with lighting and materials. The barn wood has a primitive feel and softens the space, and a lot of the lighting is LED.”

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near Arsenal and Jamieson. Ten years ago you had to pay someone to come and take down your rotting garage. Now you put it on Craigslist and some idiot restaurateur will pay you, take it down and haul it away. [For] three days last fall, my brother and several of my closest friends dismantled this old garage and brought the wood to the SPACE architects’ workshop. The

In addition to reclaimed barn wood for the walls and ceiling, the restaurant features a banquette made of reclaimed shipping pallets designed and built by Mwanzi Co., as well as a large vintage clock from the former Rothschild Antiques, where Pi’s sister restaurant Gringo now dwells.

talented people at SPACE turned this weathered wood, combined with raw steel for frames and bases, into our tables, bar and an awesome custom booth. It’s not just furniture; it is art.”

Pi co-founder Chris Sommers says SPACE’s focus on reducing impact through architecture and design aligns with the overarching mission of his restaurants.

Rehabbing existing buildings and reusing materials as much as possible is at the heart of many of SPACE’s projects. When Pi Pizzeria opened its location in Downtown St. Louis inside the Mercantile Exchange (MX) building in 2012, it commissioned SPACE to design the existing build-out.

“A huge portion of Pi is made up of wood that has been repurposed from barn wood from New Haven, Mo.,” Niemeier says. “Most of the walls and the ceiling are made of that wood. That restaurant was part of a larger gut renovation of what used to be One City Center. The space itself is all new, with a glass-curtain wall along one side and very high ceilings, but previously it was very rough… concrete floors and dry wall. It was pretty cold

“We knew they shared our passion for reuse, reclaimed and industrial chic,” Sommers says. “Five years ago we founded Pi with a green mission – to limit our footprint.

We have used reclaimed materials and environmentally conscious design and architecture in every space we’ve built to fulfill part of this mission. It is core to our DNA, so to build anything else would be cheating. Thankfully, these design principles often share an elegance, simplicity and beauty that benefit our restaurants and shouldn’t go out of style anytime soon.”

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“The very best sustainable practices are reusing or repurposing buildings,” Niemeier says. “We have an enormous stock of beautiful existing buildings in St. Louis.

We’re big proponents of reusing spaces, of using what we’ve got already and giving it new purpose. This has just become our make-up as a firm. It’s just what we do.”

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better brewing For many restaurant owners, being a good steward of the environment also means making a long-term commitment to their businesses and the neighborhoods where they reside. Such is the case for Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.’s co-founders, David Wolfe and Florian Kuplent.

Just two years into their brewing business, Urban Chestnut is expanding operations to a second location in The Grove. The 70,000 square foot production brewery, packaging facility, warehouse and indoor/outdoor retail tasting room will be located in the former Renard Paper Co. building, quadrupling the company’s brewing capacity while simultaneously making it the largest craft brewing facility in the area. Projected to open in early 2014, Urban Chestnut has partnered with Green Street St. Louis – a local real estate firm recognized for the sustainable redevelopment of underutilized St. Louis-area commercial properties into LEED(Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certified buildings. Green Street owns the building and is developing the project with Urban Chestnut.

“Because this project is a reuse of an existing space and not a new build, we’re working toward the Commercial Interiors LEED certification status,” Wolfe says. “This means green interior finishes, reducing water and energy use, recycling our construction materials, using local materials and artisans for our furniture, and more. These steps are what will make us a good citizen within our neighborhood. But we could do all these things without seeking third-party recognition [from LEED]. We’re becoming certified as a longevity measure. If we invest in geothermal energy and other efficient systems for this building, then they will be in place for future owners. The more people who [make sustainable design decisions] now, the easier it will be for future owners to do, too.”

Green Street St. Louis managing principal Phil Hulse says the company is working with local architects and contractors to design and build the new facility to incorporate high-efficiency lighting and mechanical systems, conservation of water, solar power and using natural and locally

Phil Hulse (left) and Peter Hulse (right) of Green Street St. Louis.

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2013

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produced resources and recycled materials to lessen the building’s long-term impact.

“There are many benefits to incorporating [sustainable] principles into the building,” Hulse says.

“One of the most important is that you create a better environment for people to work in and you have less negative impact on the surrounding environment (by minimizing our carbon footprint). Our focus has been to redevelop existing buildings and repurpose them for new uses – this is one of the best ways to incorporate sustainable design into the building.”

Rob Maltby, project manager with Green Street, clearly sees the investment Wolfe and Kuplent are making in their new neighborhood. “This project is reusing a building in a neighborhood that is really unique, diverse and growing,” Maltby says. “This project has the ability to connect with the community around [it], as well as filling a large hole in The Grove.

Other projects we have done, while LEED certified, are more functional for the business. I think this project can showcase a green building in a 24/7 neighborhood, and how a lot of the elements of sustainability don’t just come from the building itself, but the impact it has on the surrounding community.”

For Wolfe and Kuplent, creating this kind of project in The Grove just makes sense.

“The Grove is a sustainable neighborhood,” Wolfe says. “It’s close to transit, in a dense community, and is walkable. Reusing the building eliminates massive amounts of building materials and habitat destruction, and it adds to the economic, environmental and social sustainability of the area. We’ll be creating jobs, reducing our carbon footprint and helping the neighborhood – all of these promote a holistic view of sustainability versus solely focusing on environmental factors.”

The elements of sustainability don’t just come from the building itself, but the impact it has on the surrounding community.

For Wolfe, that all-encompassing approach to sustainability is what gives this entire project a sense of purpose. “There are a lot of benefits to employing sustainable practices,” he says. “From a marketing stand-point, we’re appealing to people who care about the environment and aligning ourselves with their morals. And we’re investing in long-term cost-savings for our business with the many energy-saving measures we’re taking. But, honestly, the most important element is the cultural impact we’re making. People who work here, who see what we’re doing and how we’re doing it are going to follow suit. They’re going to start living it themselves and become better citizens. And as customers come to expect sustainability to be part of their restaurants, they’ll demand it more and more. It’s like they say, ‘The beach starts with one grain of sand.’ And we really do feel good about what we’re doing on a regular basis.”

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○ Access to public transport within a ¼-mile radius. ○ Reusing a building in a densely populated area vs.

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reduces construction material and waste. ○ Indoor bike parking and changing area for

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Water Efficiency

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○ Reducing the baseline water consumption of the

building by a minimum of 20 percent. (They are hoping for more as design tweaks are finalized.) ○ Low-flow fixtures in the bathrooms.

Energy and Atmosphere

○ Minimizing known pollutants in the HVAC system by

making sure that refrigeration are low-polluting and don’t use HCFCs. ○ Use of Energy Saver fixtures. ○ Installation of a 75-kilowatt photovoltaic (solar)

system on the roof to offset energy costs. ○ Reduced energy through natural light where

possible, using low energy light fixtures, kitchen equipment and lighting controls.

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○ Divert 75 percent of construction waste into

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solesurvivorleather.com Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2013

89

Sprouting Up

Sustainable design in St. Louis continues to grow, with two new projects blossoming this month

the next generation A vast number of local eateries employ some degree of environmentally friendly practices, whether recycling and composting, using LED lighting and energy-efficient appliances, or sending leftovers home in eco-friendly packaging. But in the past few years, a new generation of restaurant owners have emerged, eager to incorporate sustainability into the foundation of their businesses.

Whisk: A Sustainable Bakeshop Kaylen Wissinger, owner of Whisk: a Sustainable Rendering courtesy of HOK.

Bakeshop, says it best: “As cheesy as it sounds, we only have one Earth. Why would I not utilize as much sustainable design as possible?” When she opened

Urban Harvest STL’s FOOD ROOF

Located one block away from the Downtown Community Garden, Urban Harvest STL is commencing construction this month on its rooftop farm project, FOOD ROOF. According to Mary Ostafi, founding director of Urban Harvest STL and sustainability strategist at architectural firm HOK, the project is a way to bring farming to usable, available space in otherwise condensed Downtown St. Louis.

“Why on a rooftop? Because leasing a rooftop is more economical than finding land Downtown,” Ostafi says. “We don’t have any vacant Land Reutilization Authority lots Downtown like most neighborhoods do, so rooftops are our neighborhood’s opportunity. Locating a farm on a rooftop also has many environmental benefits such as building energy load reduction, heat island mitigation, storm water management easement and enhanced biodiversity in the city. The FOOD ROOF will be a fully functioning urban farm.”

Ostafi says the project is establishing a community supported agriculture (CSA) program to benefit thousands of Downtown residents, who can join and pick fresh, sustainably grown food at the rooftop during growing season. In addition to the CSA, FOOD ROOF will also donate crops to local food banks. The farm’s first few crops are scheduled to be planted this month, with its first harvest projected for late autumn.

“As with the Downtown Community Garden, we will be growing and donating a portion of the food to locally based charities,” Ostafi says. “Our business model has many environmental and social-based benefits, not the least of which is engaging people and their families in the farming process so they can form a relationship with their urban farmer, learn where their food comes from, and become more empowered to care for their health, the health of the local food ecosystem and the long-term sustainability of our social fabric.”

In addition to increasing the Downtown community’s access to fresh produce, Urban Harvest STL plans to offer classes and community events to increase food education and outreach.

“The FOOD ROOF will be a living demonstration of innovative approaches to urban agriculture, including hydroponics and vertical farming, and will feature an outdoor classroom and gathering space for community events.”

shop on Cherokee Street in 2012, a good portion of the decor came from found and repurposed objects and the interiors were done using zero-VOC paints, varnishes and finishes. At Whisk, Wissinger recycles, composts and does the shop’s laundry in-house to save gas. All of the bakery’s carry-out containers are made from at least 90 percent post-consumer material and are compostable. Wissinger even reuses her product. “We turn day-old cupcakes into cake balls, brownies into bread pudding and cookies into pie crust,” she says.

2201 Cherokee St., Cherokee Business District, 314.932.5166, whiskstl.com

Green Bean

In November 2011, Green Bean opened in the Central West End. Construction reused many of the existing materials from the former retail space, creating an almost one-for-one exchange of materials. Serving wares are made from corn and are 100 percent compostable. Waste management is clean and green, with all refuse from the restaurant either composted or recycled. And ingredients are sourced on a “local when possible” basis, looking outside the region only when necessary. According to owner Sarah Haselkorn, creating an environmentally friendly eatery was intentional from day one. “We wanted sustainability to be embedded within the entire operation of Green

The Centennial Malt House’s Solar Carport

Local culinary entrepreneurs Paul and Wendy Hamilton are working on their newest project at The Centennial Malt House, the building that houses their other businesses, Vin de Set, Moulin Events, PW Pizza and the Malt House Cellar event space. A 25,000-kilowatt photovoltaic system is slated to be installed this month – covering the center of their parking lot – to generate energy to power the building, with excess power purchased by Ameren UE. The Hamiltons are the first restaurant owners in St. Louis to install a solar-carport canopy and expect the investment to pay for itself in fewer than seven years. “This project fits within our core values of operating our businesses in an environmentally sustainable way,” Paul Hamilton says. “It is the right thing to do, and we recognized early on that our employees and customers also shared our commitment. In general it costs more to do business in a sustainable way, but we believe those costs are reduced by positive influences associated with staff retention, guest perception and community awareness.”

Bean,” Haselkorn says. “The business was born out of that concept. Instead of saying ‘We want to sell salads, so maybe we should make them sustainably,’ we said, ‘We want to create a sustainable and healthy concept that people feel good eating at.’ The sustainable element definitely makes marketing more fun and colorful, and creates a stronger bond between us and our consumers. That’s not why we did it, but it’s certainly part of why we are glad we did.”

232 N. Euclid Ave., Central West End, 314.361.4444, greenbeansalads.com

Tree House Vegetarian Restaurant

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passionately believe in sustainable living,” says Bay Tran, owner of Tree House Vegetarian Restaurant. “I want those ideals to be represented in every aspect of my business and for my customers and my community to see what Tree House is trying to accomplish. We want to be a successful restaurant, but we want to leave as small a carbon footprint as possible.”

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Tree House employs many sustainability measures

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such as renewable bamboo flooring, repurposed furniture from Mwanzi Co. and a rooftop garden.

Tom Niemeier, owner at SPACE, LLC in The Grove,

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which designed Tree House, describes the restaurant as an opportunity to restore a historic St. Louis

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building to its past vibrancy – but this time, using low impact materials.

“With almost every project we do we’re trying to select materials that are environmentally sensitive, whether it is bamboo flooring, 100 percent recycled carpet or low-VOC paint. With Tree

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historic rehabilitation, we were able to rebuild it for generations to come.”

314-487-2670 • 6044 Lemay Ferry Rd. • Fax: 314-487-8660 15 min. south of the Arch on I-55 • mile south of Butler Hill

3177 S. Grand Blvd., South Grand, 314.696.2100, treehousestl.com

h a l l - F o r d .c o M s r a M

Frida’s Deli

When Natasha Kwan opened Frida’s Deli in University City in July 2012, she wanted to offer customers healthy food in an eco-friendly environment. The restaurant uses compostable and recyclable to-go containers and bags made with sustainable materials, as well as to-go boxes made with post-consumer

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recycled products. It offers water in glasses rather than bottles and uses paper straws rather than plastic.

And each customer with a to-go order is asked if they

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want utensils and a bag instead of being automatically offered these potentially unnecessary items. “I feel an obligation to recycle and compost,” Kwan says.

“While it is more expensive to purchase those items and to pay for the service, I could not live with myself if things were going in the trash. We recycle and compost everything that can be in the restaurant and we are only left with a small bag each day.”

Frida’s is currently adding an indoor hydroponic garden to grow leafy greens and herbs for its kitchen.

Windows separate the restaurant and garden, giving

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622 North and South Road, University City, 314.727.6500, fridasdeli.com

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Mon 10-8 • Tue-Thur 11-7 • Fri 10-8 • Sat 10-6 • Sun 12-6

CLASSIFIEDS Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

AUTOMOTIVE

HANDYMAN SERVICES

PET SERVICES

TICKETS

AUTOMOBILE & MOTORCYCLE STORAGE The Finest in Climate Controlled Storage Close to Clayton and Ladue 314-993-1330 or Kevin@stlouiscarmuseum.com

KEN'S HANDYMAN SERVICE Carpentry, Electrical, Plumbing, Painting, Gutter Cleaning and Hauling. Over 25 Yrs. Exp. Ref's.

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CLEANING SERVICES TWO LADIES & A BUCKET Two Are Better Than One! Deep & Thorough Cleaning Service Please Contact Susie Duncan at: 314-229-1736 www.twoandabucket.com

EDIBLES GRASS FED BEEF FOR SALE Taking Orders for Fall Delivery.

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Call (217) 320-3850

MOLE PATROL Specializing in Mole and other Small Rodent Removal.

One Time Yearly Set Up Fee $65, Moles $45 each, Chipmunks $50.

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PAINTING

REAL ESTATE FOR RENT NEAR LINDBERG & CLAYTON RD. Private Country Setting. Yet Close to Everything. 2 Story Home, 2+BR, 2BA. $1475 1st & Last Month + $1000 Deposit. Utilities Included. Ref's 314-821-0967

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Vintage and newer audio gear from the 1950s to 2013 including vacuum tube amplifiers solid-state amps preamplifiers turntables tape decks CD players.

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Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2013

93

the last bite

oatmeal cream pies

Contributor: Liz Miller, Print Managing Editor I seldom crave sweets. My idea of dessert is usually a glass of Pinot Noir, a cup of chai tea with honey or the occasional piece of dark chocolate. I wasn’t always so dull, though. When I was a kid my mom baked top-notch cookies, cakes, muffins and pies, and made excellent candies and chocolate fudge.

Call it nostalgia, but for a select few sweets, I’ll always be as addicted as I was in elementary school.

Enter Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in Lindenwood Park, located a convenient bike ride away from my house. My first visit to Pint Size proved almost too overwhelming – cranberry-potato chip cookies, dulce de leche cupcakes, peach crumble tartlets, salted caramel-almond blondies, cocoa nib-espresso brownies and more rise from behind the shop’s display case. When my vision finally focused, it was on a stack of oatmeal cream pies positioned front and center. It was fate; they would be mine.

If the name draws a mental association with a certain national snack-cake brand, be forewarned: Pint Size’s oatmeal cream pies defy comparison.

A delightful take on a childhood favorite, these pies bookend two soft, chewy oatmeal cookies, with rich marshmallow buttercream icing in between. Beyond satisfying a sweet tooth, they stoke the sentimentality of my childhood, making them a pure, winsome indulgent treat.

Thanks to Pint Size, maybe there’s hope for me and dessert after all.

Pint Size Bakery & Coffee 3825 Watson Road, Lindenwood Park 314.645.7142 pintsizebakery.com Check out more of Liz’s work on p. 62, where she talks to five local food bloggers about their favorite kitchen gadgets.

Photography by

Jonathan Gayman

Funjet Gourmet-inclusive®

cuisine

Photos courtesy of El Dorado Royale, a Spa Resort, by Karisma

The signature Gourmet Inclusive ® concept takes each vacation to the next level at El Dorado Royale, a Spa Resort by Karisma. Guests at El Dorado Royale are treated to gourmet dining and premium beverages along with a stunning beachside location. Featuring nine gourmet restaurants, this adults-only resort pampers travelers with indulgent, mouthwatering dishes at every turn. riviera maya

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