September 2016 Feast Magazine by Feast Magazine

C U LT U R E C L U B

YES WE CAN

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Inspired Local Food Culture | M i dw e st

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Put summer on the shelf with 12 easy recipes on p. 66

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Inspired Local Food Culture | M i dw e st

SEPTEMBER 2016 from the staff | 10 |

FEATURES | 31 |

We head to Branson, Missouri, to check out Crown Valley Winery’s new tasting room serving wine, spirits and beer. In his column, The Mix, Matt Seiter shows you how to make homemade ginger beer, and in On Trend, we ‘re exploring and sipping locally made kombucha.

froM the PUBLisher

Fermentation nation.

| 12 |

digitaL content

What’s online this month.

| 14 |

feast tv

A look at the barbecue episode.

| 19 |

dine

This month, we visit three restaurants, including Gerard Craft’s transformed flagship in Clayton, Missouri. In our monthly travel piece, Road Trip, writer Pete Dulin visits Monroe, Wisconsin, and shares where to dine, drink and stay this month during the annual Green County Cheese Days festival.

drinK

| 53 |

cooK

destination:

Take advantage of summer squash in this recipe for tacos topped with grilled halloumi.

Fermented foods add depth, funk, sour and salt in all the best ways. Whether you’re a fermentation expert or novice, these 12 easy and straightforward recipes are sure to get you excited about microbes at mealtime.

| 54 | heaLthy aPPetite

| 56 | Mystery shoPPer

fermentation

Buy it and try it: mango pickle.

| 58 | MenU oPtions Indulgent Roquefort and fig sablés are easy enough to whip up on a weeknight.

| 43 |

shoP

We visit NHB Knifeworks’ new Maplewood, Missouri, shop, check in with the baker in charge of Fervere and Ibis bakeries in the Kansas City area, and pick up a sleek fermentation crock. We also sample award-winning date syrup and fun-flavored pickles.

highly cultured

| 60 | sweet ideas Pastry chef Christy Augustin’s roasted banana pud’n has New Orleans roots.

COVeR PHOTO OF FeRMeNTeD FOODS AND TABLe OF CONTeNTS PHOTO OF CeLeRy KVASS (P. 77) By SHeRRIe CASTeLLANO

Twenty-four hours ago, cows were milked at Windcrest Dairy in Trenton, Illinois. Today, you can buy Greek-style and regular yogurt made with the same milk in stores across the St. Louis area.

yes they can

Kansas City Canning Co. makes award-winning pickles, preserves and shrubs with local flavor.

MARK YOUR CALENDARS!

Magazine Volume 7

| Issue 9 | September 2016

Vice President of Niche Publishing, Publisher of Feast Magazine Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com SALES Director of Sales Angie Henshaw ahenshaw@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1298 Account Manager Jennifer Tilman jtilman@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1205

SEPT 3

SLU Appreciation Brunch | 8am-2pm Starting September 3, Enjoy our New Orleans brunch accompanied by live Jazz or Folk music, every Saturday & Sunday. SLU students get bottomless brew coffee and $1 beignets with a student ID! Get more info online at CafeVentana.com

EDITORIAL Senior Editor Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com Managing Editor Nancy Stiles, nstiles@feastmagazine.com Associate Editor Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com Digital Editor Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor Mabel Suen Editorial Intern Sarah Kloepple

SEPT 17

“Build-Your-Own” Brunch | 11am-3pm Come enjoy “build-your-own” brunch & LIVE DJ! Brunch includes Entrée with Toppings Bar, Side & Bloody Mary, Mimosa, or Mocktail! Plus, Bloody Mary Garnish bar! Get more info online at DiablitosCantina.com

Proofreader Christine Wilmes Contributing Writers Christy Augustin, Sherrie Castellano, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pete Dulin, April Fleming, Hilary Hedges, Valeria Turturro Klamm, Brandon and Ryan Nickelson, Matt Seiter, Matt Sorrell, Shannon Weber ART Art Director Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Production Designer Jacklyn Meyer, jmeyer@feastmagazine.com

OCT 11

Winter Menu Premiere Be the first to taste 10 small bites from our NEW Winter Menu & 10 tastings from our NEW Winter Cocktail List! Only $30 per person! Space is limited, so don’t wait to secure your spot! Purchase tickets online at SanctuariaSTL.com

Contributing Photographers Zach Bauman, Sherrie Castellano, Jonathan Gayman, Gregg Goldman, Demond Meek, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, Jonathan Pollack, Jennifer Silverberg, Starboard & Port Creative, Mabel Suen, Cheryl Waller FEAST TV

producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Tybee Studios

CONTACT US Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1244, feastmagazine.com DISTRIbUTION To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Jeff Moore for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at jmoore@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

NOV 1

Cathedral Square Brewery Dinner Be among the first to taste Cathedral Square’s newest brew, “Peaching To The Choir”, a delicious IPA brewed with peach purée! Four paired courses of divinely inspired beer & sinful BBQ! Purchase tickets online at HendricksBBQ.com

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Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2016 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC

contributors

09.16 sherrie castellano St. Louis, Writer & Photographer Sherrie Castellano is a certified health coach, food writer and photographer based in St. Louis. Originally from upstate New York – although she has spent most of her adulthood in Denver and Philadelphia – Sherrie has recently moved to Missouri and calls the Midwest home, for now. She writes and photographs the seasonally inspired vegetarian and gluten-free blog, With Food + Love, which was a finalist in the 2015 Saveur Blog Awards. Sherrie’s work has been featured on the pages of Driftless Magazine, Vegetarian Times, Food52 and Urban Outfitters, among others. You can find her hanging with her aviation-enthusiast husband, sipping Earl Grey tea, green juice and/or bourbon.

april fleming

Winter Menu

Premiere 6:00pm | OCTOBER 11

Kansas City, Writer April Fleming is a Kansas City-based freelance writer and photographer. Raised in the mountains of northern New Mexico, she moved to the Midwest 16 years ago to attend The University of Kansas and fell in love with Lawrence and Kansas City’s food and live music cultures. Her work has been featured in Feast, The Pitch, lawrence.com and more. She believes that through food and music, you can access the heart of a culture. She travels as much as possible to test that theory. Follow her on Instagram at @dolores2175.

gregg goldman St. Louis, Photographer Gregg has been fortunate to have his work be his passion. His father inspired his career in photography with the gift of a camera in his teens. His father didn’t realize what an important gift that was, as up until his final days, he was baffled by the idea of photography as a career. Being able to meet and experience amazing people through Gregg’s work is a privilege – especially hearing their stories firsthand and having the chance to capture their passion through images. Great photography is more than taking pictures; it’s an opportunity to collaborate on an idea and turn it into an arresting visual statement. Whether on the floor of a casino capturing gamers’ luck or in the kitchen at the James Beard House photographing St. Louis’ Josh Galliano, having the chance to become part of each of his subjects’ worlds is a special invitation.

anna petrow Kansas City, Photographer Anna’s photography is guided by her love of eating well and traveling often. Following her mantra that life is better spent in new places, Anna’s work captures the beauty of her surroundings, whether that be on the shores of the Amalfi Coast or in a Midwest diner. Kansas City is her home and her favorite place to shoot the astounding culinary variety that exists in the heart of the country. She is represented by prestigious photo agency Offset, and her clientele includes award-winning restaurants all over the nation and travel and hospitality clients all over the world. You can view her work at annapetrow.com.

The EXCLUSIVE DEBUT of our NEW Winter Menu & Winter Cocktail List! 20 Tastings of food & drinks tailored for the refined palette. $30 each. Limited space. SECURE YOUR TICKETS: SanctuariaSTL.com/Premiere (314) 535-9700 | 4198 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, MO

www.SanctuariaSTL.com |   Inspired Local Food Culture

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publisher’s letter

PHOTOGRAPHY BY LP CREATIVE STUDIO

fermentation is as old as time.

Catherine Neville, seen here with Merritt and Dennis Van Landuyt of Troutdale Farm, will host Go Fish on Fri., Sept. 16 in St. Louis. Inspired by the Local Fish episode of Feast TV, the event is the last in this year’s Taste & See series.

It was one of the few ways we preserved food before refrigeration and artificial preservatives. As with so much else in our culture, what’s old is new again, and chefs and home cooks alike are experimenting with ancient preservation techniques as a way to enhance flavor and texture, preserve produce and support digestive health. Pickled and fermented foods are delicious, and it’s a happy bonus that they are also very good for you.

Inspired by all of the innovative ways people are playing with fermentation and pickling, we’ve focused this latesummer issue on preservation. Turn to p. 88 for writer April Fleming’s profile of the couple behind Kansas City Canning Co., a small company producing pickles, shrubs and preserves with big flavor. Half-ripe tomato relish, pickled balsamic grapes and an apple-caraway shrub that was named a 2016 Good Food Awards winner are among the of-the-moment products from this up-and-coming business.

FeAst eVeNts KC

Thu., Sept. 8, 5:30 to 7:30pm; The Concourse Fountain in Kessler Park; feastmagazine.com/events

Join us for a food truck event each month from May to September in one of Kansas City’s beautiful parks. We’ll highlight prominent fountains throughout the city while guests enjoy food from some of Kansas City’s most popular food trucks. MO

And if you want to try your hand at these techniques, turn to p. 66 for Healthy Appetite columnist Sherrie Castellano’s collection of quick, easy and irresistible recipes that will help you get over any fear of fermenting. She offers you the basic recipe – garlicky fermented jalapeño hot sauce, for example – along with a recipe that uses said fermented product. I’m willing to bet you’ll be as anxious to try her recipes as I am once you see how easy it is to ferment at home.

independence uncorked Sat., Sept. 10, 12pm; Independence, Missouri; independenceuncorked.com

Enjoy live music, art, wine and food classes, and, of course, lots of wine! Hosted by the Rotary Club of Eastern Independence, the festival features wineries including Adam Puchta Winery, Augusta Winery, Montelle Winery, KC Wineworks, Les Bourgeois Vineyards, St. James Winery, Stone Hill Winery and many more. il

Chefs Cook real Challenge Sat., Sept. 10; Land of Goshen Farmers’ Market; Edwardsville, Illinois; facebook.com/chefscookreal

Local chefs battle it out in the next cook-off in this series, featuring Source Juicery, 1818 Chophouse and Catrinas. Sample the dishes and vote for your favorite: The winner goes to the grand finale in October. stl

louFest Music Festival Sat., Sept. 10 and Sun., Sept. 11; Forest Park; $35 to $95; loufest.com

LouFest enters its seventh year, promising to be the best fest yet. With more than 30 national acts on four stages, the Market Square showcasing local artists and the Nosh Pit celebrating the Lou’s culinary excellence, you’ll never be wanting for what’s next. All this and more in St. Louis’ own backyard, Forest Park. stl

Lest you forget, produce isn’t the only thing that gets better with a bit of fermentation. Yogurt is more popular in the U.S. now than at any time in the past thanks to the numerous Greek-style varieties on offer in your grocer’s refrigerated section. Locally, Windcrest Dairy is making yogurt that goes from farm to store shelf in about 24 hours. Yogurt this fresh is tough to find. Turn to p. 81 for managing editor Nancy Stiles’ profile of the dairy in Trenton, Illinois.

Feast of Fountains: A Food truck Fest

st. louis Craft spirits & Cocktail Celebration Sat., Sept. 10 through Sun., Sept. 18;

stl

facebook.com/stlouiscraftspiritscocktailweek

Area distilleries and bars celebrate craft cocktails and kick off Drink Like a Local week. On Sat., Sept. 10, the Fifth Annual Classic Cocktail Party at Lafayette Square Park will feature Ralph Butler from 6 to 10pm. It all wraps up on Sun., Sept. 18, when the Bartenders Guild hosts Punch in the Park showcasing punches by local mixologists in Lafayette Square Park near the Kern Pavilion. stl

Feast TV taste & see: Go Fish Fri., Sept. 16, 7pm; Public Media Commons; $15; ninenet.org

Watch Feast TV segments and enjoy presentations and samples from chefs featured on the show. Experience the beauty and flavor of local, Midwest-raised fish and learn the hows and whys of preparing, dining and imbibing with all things aquatic – paired with outstanding wines, of course.

Until next time, il

savor – edwardsville/Glen Carbon restaurant Week Fri., Sept. 16 through Sun., Sept. 25; Edwardsville and Glen Carbon, Illinois; edglenchamber.com/savor

Enjoy special menus at some of the best restaurants in Edwardsville and Glen Carbon, Illinois, including Cleveland-Heath, 1818 Chophouse, Andria’s Countryside, Catrinas, Doc’s Smokehouse, Sugo’s Spaghetteria, Bella Milano and Annie’s Frozen Custard.

Catherine Neville

publisher@feastmagazine.com

feastmagazine.com

@cat_neville

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@cat_neville

STL

Mosaics Art Festival Fri., Sept. 16 through Sun., Sept. 18; Historic North Main

WE ARE MORE THAN bRick & sTONE

Street, St. Charles, Missouri; stcharlesmosaics.org

This free art festival is a family-friendly weekend event with activities for everyone including fantastic art, great entertainment and the opportunity for children to create their own artwork. STL

Budweiser Taste of St. Louis Fri., Sept. 16 through Sun., Sept. 18; Chesterfield Amphitheater, Chesterfield, Missouri; tastestl.com

The award-winning Budweiser Taste of St. Louis features dishes from the region’s best restaurants as well as culinary competitions, live cooking demos, a marketplace and more. STL

South Grand Fall Fest Sat., Sept. 17, 10am to 10pm; South Grand Business District; southgrand.org

This event celebrates what makes South Grand and its surrounding community unique, featuring local artists and musicians; dancers; and great restaurants, goods and services, and shops. STL

NEW FiREbOWls NOW AvAilAblE

Sixth Annual Oktoberfest St. Louis Fri., Sept. 23 through Sun., Sept. 25; Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. Biergarten, urbanchestnut.com

Enjoy a Munich-style celebration with German food, amusements and entertainment including live music and, of course, German beer!

STL

Schnucks Cooks: Roquefort and Fig Sablés Wed., Sept. 28, 6 to 9pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School; $45; schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

STL

Embrace the flavors of fall by making a garden-fresh salad tossed with sweet onion-balsamic vinaigrette, plus pumpkin and Gorgonzola baked in ramekins. In this class you’ll also learn how to make a sweet brown sugar glaze perfect for pork loin. Start and finish the meal with sweets, as well: fig and Roquefort sablés served as starters and baked apples with fresh cinnamon-whipped cream for dessert.

Taste America: A James Beard Foundation Benefit Fri., Sept. 30, 6pm; Hilton President: Kansas City; jbftasteamerica.org/event/kansas-city

Join rock-star local chefs, plus all-star chef Gavin Kaysen for A Night of Culinary Stars, an exclusive dining event benefiting the James Beard Foundation. The cocktail and tasting reception begins at 6pm, followed by an unforgettable four-course dinner. STL

EarthDance Farmers Formal Fri., Oct. 14, 6pm; Union Station; $125 to $275; earthdancefarms.org/farmers-formal

This farm-inspired celebration features a locavore feast, a bumper crop of live and silent auction items, and toe-tappin’ live music. Feast, bid and dance to benefit St. Louis’ own nationally recognized Organic Farm School. COMO

South East Craft Beer Fest Sat., Oct. 15, 12 to 5pm; 1306 Hathman Place, Columbia, Missouri; $65 to $85; secbeerfest.com/tickets

The South East Craft Beer Fest is a festival for the true beer-enthusiast. With more than 75 breweries from all over the world in attendance, everyone is sure to find something new to enjoy – food, music and lots of beer.

www.midwestblock.com

Columbia |

Jefferson City |

St. Louis |

Kansas City

midwestblock.com | firebowls.midwestblock.com

Dierks Farms Grass Fed Beef & Produce

Ava, Illinois • since 1881 Delicious 100% Grass Fed Beef From a So. Illinois Family Farm antibiotic free-grain free-hormone free usda inspected & graded choice

Only $50! Onl feast promotion

10 lbs. of Ground Beef reg. price $80 Bulk buys available: Full, half and quarter. Delivered free on Saturday to the St. Louis Area! Shop Online 24 hrs. per day. We will deliver to your doorstep! www.americasgrassfedbeef.com

See uS at tower Grove FarmerS market! Saturdays through November from 8am -12:30pm

Inspired Local Food Culture

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DIGITAL CONTENT

hungry for more?

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PHoTograPHy By MaBeL Suen

fACEbook. Keep up with the latest Feast news (like our recent mid-america emmy nominations for Feast TV) at facebook.com/feastmag.

thE fEEd: StL tWIttEr. Follow @feastmag to see where we’re

Vacationers might recognize Mellow Mushroom from hot spots across the nation. The first Missouri location debuted in Sunset Hills last month, serving up specialty pizzas, salads and craft brews.

dining and drinking across the region (like the Skip to Malou pop up at Hiro asian Kitchen in St. Louis).

Chef Daniel Ernce is bringing a once-in-a-lifetime dining experience to Springfield, Missouri, with his Progress pop ups. August’s dinner at Urban Roots farm featured dishes such as tomato salad with goat cheese, smoked trout and cured egg, and watermelon-cucumber gazpacho with mint oil.

PHoTograPHy By JonaTHan gayMan

thE fEEd: So-mo

PIntErESt. Wind down summer with great grilling recipes (like these grilled pork chops with salsa verde) on our Barbecue & grilling board at pinterest.com/feastmag.

PHoTograPHy By ana PierCe

PHoTograPHy CourTeSy @eMiLyann_PHoTo

morE on thE fEEd: Keep up with what’s happening in the region’s food-and-drink scene by visiting our daily updated news blog, The Feed, at feastmagazine.com/the-feed. We recently named 15 must-try brunches in St. Louis and announced chef Michael Corvino’s plans to open a new supper club in Kansas City. SPECIAL GIVEAWAY: Win a private, after-hours barbecue party for eight at Sugarfire Smoke House through Budweiser Taste of

St. Louis! Just head to the Promotions section at feastmagazine.com for all the details.

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InStAGrAm. Hashtag your local food-and-drink photos with #feastgram for a chance to see them in Feast! Details on p. 98. Follow us @feastmag.

Watch our videos and Feast TV.

youtube.com/FeastMagazine

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we get in the kitchen at danny edward’s boulevard bbq in kansas city to learn about the history of this lunch-only mecca of meat.

meet some of the folks behind the region’s incredible barbecue industry, including the man who launched the cape girardeau-based company that’s building some of the country’s best-regarded smokers. we attend the whole-hog extravaganza at 17th street barbecue and learn from co-owner mike mills, one the best in the business. in kansas city, we check in with danny edwards about his family’s long history of smoking meats in cowtown. visit with mike emerson at pappy’s smokehouse in st. louis and cody smith of city butcher and barbecue in springfield, missouri. back in the kitchen, host cat neville shows you how to make classic barbecue sauces including alabamastyle white, plus incredibly easy pulled pork.

in st. louis, mike emerson holds court at pappy’s smokehouse, his famous barbecue joint where lines of devoted fans snake out the door daily.

in springfield, missouri, city butcher is smoking up tender and true texas-style ‘cue seasoned only with salt and pepper. CITy buTCHER PHoToS by STaRboaRd & PoRT CREaTIVE

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors: Missouri Wines

WhoLe Foods Market

L’ écoLe cuLinaire

Missouri Wines supports the more than 125 wineries operating in the state and is focused on promoting the industry’s growth and vitality.

Feast TV is proud to feature Whole Foods Market’s 365 Everyday Value line of products. Pick up ingredients at Whole Foods locations in the St. Louis area.

In St. Louis and Kansas City, L’École Culinaire offers high-quality culinary education from basic culinary skills to careers in management.

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the raphaeL hoteL

neW seasons spa and saLon

The Raphael Hotel is Feast’s official hotel, offering luxury accommodations and dining near Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza.

New Seasons Spa and Salon in south St. Louis County offers a full range of spa services and is the official salon of Feast TV.

In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Saturdays and Sundays at 6:30pm.

In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Sundays at 5:30pm.

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Thursdays at 8pm and Saturdays at 4:30pm.

Feast TV airs in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) every Monday at 12:30pm.

BE YOU. FEEL NEW. Get the New Seasons Experience Check mylaketv.com to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.

We are dedicated to providing you with the highest possible quality and service in a tranquil and nurturing environment. Our objective is for customers to come to us for an "experience", not just a transaction!

314-842-6500 #1 Ronnies Plaza St. Louis MO 63126 newseasonsspa.com featured on

TV HOURS: Mon - Thur 9am - 9pm • Fri & Sat 9am - 5pm • Closed Sundays Inspired Local Food Culture

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Cibare Italian Kitchen is opening soon at River City Casino. From Italian favorites like wood-fired Margherita pizza and housemade pastas to seasonal desserts like slow-churned gelato, it’s everything you love about Italian dining… right here in your own backyard.

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FARM TO YOU MARKET

gROCERY DELi CAFÉ Featuring Locally and Regionally Produced Agricultural Products Direct from the producers!

Don’t miss a

single serving!

W I N E R Y

Wonderful assortment of Fresh Produce, Quality Meats, Eggs, Cheeses, Milk, Wines, Spirts, Micro Brews & much more.

subscribe to Feast’s weekly enewsletter for delicious content covering KC, stL and missouri dining.

NOw SERviNg BREAKFAST ON SAT. & SUN. OpEN M-SAT 8AM-7pM, SUN 9:30AM-4pM

Visit feastmagazine.com to subscribe and you’ll get fresh content delivered to your inbox every Wednesday!

5025 Old Hwy 100, Washington Mo 1-84-GOT-BACON FarmToYouMarket.com

Come for the Wine. Experience the Ambiance. Return for the Friendships. Wild Sun Winery¼ where the outside world ends and serenity begins. 4830 Pioneer Road, Hillsboro, MO 63050 636-797-8686 | www.wildsunwinery.com

FABULOUS FOX THEATRE 314-534-1111 • Metrotix.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all greek to me

Find American eats with a Mediterranean twist at The FourWay in Cuba, Missouri, like this lamb burger with red onion, Feta and tzatziki sauce on p. 22. photography by anna petrow

trending now: okonomiyaki

on trend

Written by HeatHer riske PHotograPHy by j. Pollack PHotograPHy

A traditional Japanese dish, okonomiyaki is a savory pancake often likened to a build-your-own pizza. Styles vary widely across different regions and cities in Japan; most versions include shredded cabbage and other popular toppings such as shaved bonito flakes, pork belly, squid and okonomiyaki sauce, with a flavor similar to Worcestershire. The dish takes its name from okonomi (“what you like”) and yaki (“grilled”), implying the myriad combinations.

hot dog

JoPLin, mo. Diners in joplin, Missouri, know to expect the

unexpected at jason Miller’s Instant Karma Gourmet Hot Dogs. in March, the hot dog and hamburger joint hosted a one-off pop up, dubbed okonomiyaki, focused on japanese street food. Miller offered both a traditional okonomiyaki topped with chopped squid, cabbage, japanese mayonnaise, okonomiyaki sauce, shredded nori and red pickled ginger and an “americanized” version. instead of squid, the latter included hamburger meat and cheddar cheese, plus mayonnaise, ketchup, mustard and finely diced housemade pickles. “it’s almost limitless – in america, they call it japanese pizza,” Miller says. Diners can get another take on the dish: a bacon-wrapped okonomiyaki hot dog with slaw, pickled ginger, japanese mayo and scallions was recently added to the menu. Instant Karma Gourmet Hot Dogs, 527 S. Main St., Joplin, Missouri, 417.206.3647, facebook.com/Instant-Karma-GourmetHot-Dogs-172552359449409

classic edwardSViLLe, iL. Four years ago, jenny cleveland and ed Heath added okonomiyaki to the menu at Cleveland-Heath in edwardsville, illinois, on a bit of a whim. they already had bonito flakes in the kitchen for dashi, and their then-new chef de cuisine, rick kazmer, suggested using them for okonomiyaki, as well. the chefs begin by topping pancake batter with shrimp, bacon and cabbage on the grill and letting it cook from the bottom. next, they flip the pancake to finish cooking the shrimp and cabbage. the pancake is drizzled with kewpie mayonnaise and housemade barbecue sauce with a touch of soy sauce and topped with sesame seeds, green onions and thinly shaved bonito flakes. “those flakes are lighter than tissue paper, so the heat from the pancake causes them to kind of walk and move around,” cleveland says. “the table freaks out a little bit because the dish is moving.”

Cleveland-Heath, 106 N. Main St., Edwardsville, Illinois, 618.307.4830, clevelandheath.com

stl

brunch

CLayton, mo. in april, Mike randolph and his Half & Half chef de cuisine, Dale beauchamp, introduced one of the biggest menu updates ever at the breakfast-and-lunch spot. randolph invited beauchamp to get creative with Half & Half’s weekly brunch specials, including a take on okonomiyaki. For the pancake itself, beauchamp used shredded napa cabbage, eggs, a blend of all-purpose and rice flours, bonito flakes and dashi . He topped it with kewpie mayo, okonomiyaki sauce, anori, togarashi, pickled ginger and more bonito flakes. “okonomiyaki is as much about the toppings as the pancake itself,” beauchamp says. “it’s like a blank canvas for different flavors and textures.” beauchamp plans on running another okonomiyaki special at the clayton, Missouri, restaurant, this time with char siu pork and shrimp, as well as a korean take with kimchi and bulgogi beef.

Half & Half, 8135 Maryland Ave., Clayton, Missouri, 314.725.0719, halfandhalfstl.com

Kounter Kulture’s oKonomiyaKi Kounter Kulture, which opened in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park this July, serves locally sourced Asian-inspired carryout including build-your-own okonomiyaki served in a cardboard pizza box. Diners can top its yam-cabbage base, which receives a garnish of bonito flakes, with ingredients like kimchi, house-cured Chinese bacon, wild mushrooms or squid.

OkOnOmiyaki

Kounter Kulture makes its tonkatsu sauce and Kewpie-style mayo in house, though both can be purchased at international grocery stores. This recipe yields a quart of tonkatsu; extra sauce can be refrigerated and used to spice up sandwiches, burgers and more. The nagaimo yam in the okonomiyaki base is a Chinese variety also found at many international markets.

4059 Broadway | Kansas City, Missouri 64111 | 816-931-4401 thecornerkc.com

yields | 2 10-inch pancaKes | Kewpie-style Mayo

10 ₁⁄₃ 1 ½ ½ 2 2 1 2

egg yolks cup rice vinegar cup water tsp white pepper Tbsp salt Tbsp sugar tsp MSG tsp garlic powder cups neutral salad oil

tonKatsu sauce (yields 1 quart)

10 2₂⁄₃ ₂⁄₃ ½ ½ ½ 1½ 1½ ¼ ¼ ₁⁄₈ ¾

cups plus 11 Tbsp ketchup cups Worchestershire cup soy sauce cup mirin cup honey cup Dijon mustard tsp garlic powder tsp onion powder tsp cinnamon tsp allspice tsp nutmeg tsp white pepper

oKonoMiyaKi Base

2 2 8 ½ 1 1 ¼ 1 5 2

cups all-purpose flour cups water eggs cup grated nagaimo yam Tbsp salt Tbsp baking powder cup sesame oil Tbsp turmeric Tbsp soy oil cups coarsely chopped napa cabbage

| preparation – kewpie-style mayo | in a blender on medium, add all ingredients except oil and blend. slowly stream in oil, allowing ingredients to come together and emulsify. Refrigerate until ready to serve. | preparation – tonkatsu sauce | in a bowl, combine all ingredients. set aside; leftover sauce can be refrigerated. | preparation – okonomiyaki base | Preheat oven to 475°F. in a bowl, combine all ingredients except soy oil and cabbage. in a cast-iron skillet, heat soy oil to just below smoke point. Add ¾ cup plus 2 Tbsp batter. sprinkle cabbage evenly over batter, then top with ¾ cup batter. Using a spatula, circle batter sides to form crust edge over layers. Transfer to oven and bake 7 minutes, flip and cook another 5 minutes.

| to serve | drizzle tonkatsu sauce in a zigzag pattern across okonomiyaki, followed by Kewpie mayo drizzle.

Inspired Local Food Culture

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where we’re dining From new restaurants to renewed menus, our staff and contributors share their picks for where we’re dining this month.

third street social PHOTOGrAPHy By JACkLyN Meyer

lee’S Summit, mo. Third Street Social is the new chef-driven restaurant and bar owned by Andy Lock and chef Domhnall Molloy, the duo behind Summit Grill & Bar. The restaurant opened in downtown Lee’s Summit, Missouri, in June to rave reviews not only of its delicious food and drink but also for the gorgeous remodel of the historic Arnold Hall.

stl

sardella

wrITTeN By JeNNy VerGArA

familiar mix of from-scratch hearty fare like the stacked pastrami sandwich, with house-smoked pastrami and Dijon mustard on thick slices of Farm to Market Bread Co. rye, and fried chicken with housemade mashed red potatoes. Pastry chef Nicolette Foster rounds out the menu with desserts like a phyllo-wrapped brownie and cherry hand pies. The cocktail menu features strong, serious and recognizable cocktails along with an impressive craft beer list to get you socializing in no time.

The 70-year-old building was reimagined by Draw Architecture & Urban Design, which kept the original brick walls and high, barrel ceiling with exposed trusses; the space’s 7,200 square feet allows for 270 seats inside and 30 seats on the patio. The kitchen is putting out a

Third Street Social, 123 SE Third St., Lee’s Summit, Missouri, 816.384.2123, thirdstreetsocial.com

KC wrITTeN By SArAH kLOePPLe

PHOTOGrAPHy By ANNA PeTrOw

clayton, mo. Gerard Craft and the team from Niche, his flagship fine-dining restaurant that closed in June, are back in the kitchen at Sardella. His new concept winks to Italy but isn’t exactly Italian: Craft, executive chef Nick Blue and executive pastry chef Sarah Osborn wanted to launch something fresh and more approachable than Niche. Sardella, whichis scheduled to open in the former Niche space early this month, will boast a lively, casual atmosphere and shareable plates of modern vegetable dishes, roasted meats, fresh pastas, sandwiches and more. Sardella serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and features an extensive coffee program from St. Louis-based roaster Sump.

Sardella, 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, Missouri, 314.773.7755, facebook.com/sardellastl

the fourway

Written by nancy StileS

PhotograPhy by gregg goldman

CUBA, MO. The FourWay was built as a filling station along Route 66

in 1932; the Wallis family bought it in 1968 and operated it as a Mobil gas station. In 2015, they decided to restore the building and open a restaurant serving classic American food with a Mediterranean influence. Appetizers include fries topped with crumbled Feta, tzatziki and housemade hot sauce, and flash-fried Brussels sprouts with olive oil, lemon, Parmesan and balsamic vinaigrette. Grab a burger “charbroiled to perfection” or opt for a lamb burger. The dessert menu is short but sweet: Choose from a housemade ice-cream sandwich of vanilla bean ice cream between chocolate graham crackers and fresh strawberries or baklava layered with pecans, cashews, walnuts and drizzled with honey. The FourWay, 102 W. Washington Ave., Cuba, Missouri, 573.885.3004, fourway66.com

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n eO O

stl

q&A

brandon moore

�

executive chef, saint louis science center

�

WRITTEn BY SARAH KLOEPPLE

ST. LOUIS. Brandon Moore is

blending science with the culinary arts at GROW, an interactive agriculture exhibit at the Saint Louis Science Center. At the exhibit’s adult-friendly Fermentation Station, Moore, who has been cooking since he was a child, holds demonstrations and tastings for menu items such as a local sausage and cheese platter, a house-pickled vegetable plate and Bavarian pretzels with beer-cheese sauce, along with local beer and wine. On Saturdays, he serves specials including street tacos and pulled pork-Cheddar biscuits. He also teaches attendees how to grow produce at home and use those ingredients in easyto-make dishes. Beyond GROW, Moore runs the Science Center’s concessions, including The Loft café, and caters parties held at the James S. McDonnell Planetarium.

GROW at the Saint Louis Science Center, 5050 Oakland Ave., King’s Oak, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.289.4400, slscgrow.squarespace.com

PHOTOGRAPHY BY J. POLLACK PHOTOGRAPHY

What is your role at the GROW exhibit? For the most part, I run the Fermentation Station. What I wanted to bring to GROW was teaching people how to integrate the things that they’re growing into what they can make. We’re growing herbs, we’re growing tomatoes, we’re growing corn – we have different types of things out there. I wanted to integrate all those things into a simple menu that makes sense to everybody. Every demographic can enjoy it, essentially. What was your inspiration for the menu? I really wanted to make people understand that food is an art and the importance of farm to table with the menu. It made it easier to come up with items because it’s all the things that we’re growing at the exhibit already – to show people that you can grow these at home and cut them the same way I cut them or pickle them the same way I pickle them – and it would be just the same or better than what I produce. Why do you think it’s valuable to teach people about home-grown produce? I think it’s very important, especially with how the world is now with people very health conscious about what they’re putting into their bodies. I think it’s important that if you know the science behind what it takes to grow your food, you’ll be a lot more comfortable with what you’re making. You’ll be a lot happier. Plus it’s a great thing to do at home with your family. Instead of making cupcakes or brownies, go outside in the garden and do something interactive with your family. It’s important to get that home-grown feel back into the kitchen. What are some tips for someone starting a garden? Start small. Start off with something easy – something that’s really hearty that doesn’t require a lot of attention, like a tomato. Something that you can maintain – maybe some small herbs. Once you master that and get your confidence up and get your morale going, then move on to something more difficult. What’s next for you at the Science Center? I’m looking into really trying to upgrade what we’re doing here. I want to make this more of a destination space – Saturdays are the best days for catching all the demos and tastings, but it’s a beautiful space for you to spend your lunch break any day of the week. GROW [is] so unique because it’s the only place in St. Louis that has a fermentation station the way we do. I’m really looking forward to establishing that one thing you can only get at the Science Center. That will continue the community culture we created when we opened.

Inspired Local Food Culture

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destination: monroe, wisconsin |1|

road trip

WRITTEN By PETE DULIN

Everyone’s a cheesehead in Monroe, Wisconsin, during Green County Cheese Days, Sept. 16 to 18. Established in 1914, this annual event celebrates locally made cheese with a parade, tours of dairy farms, cheesemaking demonstrations and cow-milking contests. Meet the Limburger Queen, enjoy German-style polka and Swiss folk dancers, sing along to the festival’s official “Come to Cheese Days in Monroe” tune or nibble on deep-fried cheese curds, brats and cheesecake on a stick. Find out more at cheesedays.com.

eat

baumgartner’s cheese store & tavern Head to Wisconsin’s oldest cheese store (open since 1931) and stock up on some of the state’s finest cheese and meats, jarred “2nd Best Chili” and housemade stone-ground horseradish mustard. Afterward, visit the adjacent tavern for locally brewed beers, barbecue ribs on Wednesdays, roast beef, cheese plates, cheese sandwiches and even cheesecake for dessert. Don’t forget to take home an “I Cut the Cheese at Baumgartner’s” T-shirt. 1023 16th Ave., 608.325.6157, baumgartnercheese.com

| 1 | PHOTO COurTesy green COunTy TOurism

cow & quince Roughly 20 minutes south of Monroe, this restaurant sources seasonal ingredients from local farms and makes its own cheese, bread, jams and desserts. Savory French toast with Gouda, pork belly, carmelized onions, cherries, a sunny-side-up duck egg and maple-garlic vinaigrette; beet salad; and a roasted local pork-shoulder sandwich with beet slaw and pickled jalapeños on sourdough country bread hint at what awaits. While in town, make sure to visit famed New Glarus Brewing Co. 407 second st., new glarus, 608.527.2900, cowandquince.com

local gems biking trails Monroe and surrounding Green County is home to multiple bike trails that lead to rolling hills, historic locations, cheesemakers and breweries. The south end of the 40-mile Badger State Trail passes through Monroe and heads north to Madison, Wisconsin. The Green County Bike Map offers scenic routes to local towns, and the 47-mile Cheese Country Trail connects Monroe and Mineral Point, another historic Wisconsin community with great food. cityofmonroe.org

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buggyworks restaurant and pub Don’t miss the hot Swiss Dip sandwich at Buggyworks, featuring shaved beef roasted in house, local Deppeler’s world championship baby Swiss cheese and caramelized onions on a rustic baguette. Items like Wisconsin mac ‘n’ cheese made with four champion cheeses (including 2016 World Champion Cheese Contest winner Roth Grand Cru Alpine-style cheese) make it hard to decide where to start – and stop. 1015 18th Ave. #112, 608.426.6445, buggyworkspub.com

| 3 | PHOTO COurTesy buggywOrks resTAurAnT And Pub

sugar river pizza co. There are a few lighter options at Sugar River Pizza Co., but who could resist ordering spinach tortellini, lasagna, fried Sriracha-chicken bites or house mac ‘n’ cheese? Of course, the standout is pizza, with options such as barbecue pulled pork, chicken Alfredo, Kickapoo taco, steak, Mediterranean and classic Margherita. Sugar River sources from Wisconsin-based Lonesome Stone Milling for flour, Silver Lewis Cheese Co-Op for cheese and Usinger’s Famous Sausage for pepperoni, salami, Canadian bacon and pastrami. 700 railroad st., new glarus, 608.527.5000, sugarriverpizza.com

| 2 | PHOTO COurTesy green COunTy TOurism

national historic cheesemaking center and museum Return to the late 1800s and learn how brick, Swiss and Limburger cheeses were made at Imobersteg Farmstead, which was operated by Swiss immigrants Alfred and Anna Imobersteg until 1917, and sat dormant for the next 90 years. In 2010, this restored cheese factory and its original equipment were relocated from the farm to the National Historic Cheesemaking Center and Museum, where guests learn about area cheese factories and stores and receive guided tours of the cheesemaking process. 2108 sixth Ave., 608.325.4636, nationalhistoriccheesemakingcenter.org

sleep the ludlow mansion bed & breakfast This historic antebellum mansion exudes charm and understated elegance. Among its six suites, the Ludlow Suite features a double whirlpool tub, a four-poster queen bed and antique crystal chandelier. The house is located near hiking and biking trails and area attractions including tours of dairies, breweries and wineries; bikes are also provided for rent from locally owned Stonehall Bicycles. 1421 mansion drive, 608.325.5500, ludlowmansion.net

inn serendipity Only 15 minutes southwest of Monroe, this award-winning bed-and-breakfast is a rustic wonderland. Innkeepers, authors and ecotourism entrepreneurs Lisa Kivirist and John D. Ivanko adapted a turn-of-the-century farmhouse into a bed-and-breakfast with a straw-bale greenhouse and a farm powered by renewable energy systems. Enjoy vegetarian breakfasts made with seasonal organic ingredients grown on the farm. Two rooms, The Writing Room and The Music Room, are available with private baths. The historic rooms have fans but no air-conditioning or televisions. w7843 County road P, browntown, 608.329.7056, innserendipity.com

| 5 | PHOTO by JOHn d. ivAnkO PHOTOgrAPHy

n eo o

como q&A

ben parks

chef and co-owner, barred owl butcher & table Written by Valeria turturro Klamm

CoLUMBIA, Mo. Barred Owl Butcher & Table, a whole-animal restaurant and retail butcher and charcuterie shop, opens in downtown Columbia, missouri, for lunch and dinner this fall. Chef and co-owner ben parks mans the kitchen while co-owners Joshua smith and brandy hughes run the retail and charcuterie programs and the front of house, respectively. the three owners share a wealth of restaurant experience from several Columbia establishments, including parks’ own experience at now-shuttered bleu restaurant & Catering, sycamore and 44 stone. “all three of us independently had this idea of wanting to do a whole-animal concept and a place that is really based on charcuterie, local meats and the farm-to-table process,” parks says. “We’ve gotten tastes of that every place we’ve worked, but eventually you want to do it for yourself.”

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Barred Owl Butcher & Table, 47 E. Broadway, Columbia, Missouri, 573.442.9323, barredowlbutcher.com

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Chocolate-Covered Blackberries photography by aaron ottis

What is your approach to whole-animal cooking at Barred Owl? part of the whole-animal process is that when you get a pig, there are only so many pork chops in it. the whole point of charcuterie is to figure out what to do with what’s left. if the pig was fed acorns, chestnuts or pecans, we design the menu in the restaurant around those types of flavors. there is some demand for obscure cuts of beef and pork on a retail level, but we want to highlight those in the restaurant, as well, so if diners have pig ears, trotters or organ meat in the restaurant, maybe they’re asking for that next time they’re on the butcher side. any time you come into [barred owl], you know that [you’re getting] something raised with integrity around the central missouri region. Tell us about the menu at Barred Owl. We want the menu to be very fluid and changing – hyperseasonal, depending on whatever is available on a weekly basis. We have amazing sandwiches featuring charcuterie and cold cuts really prominently. We want the menu to have accessible small plates – hot and cold charcuterie items and pâté – but also to have large plates. We can’t be a whole-animal place without having big cuts of meat! Josh and i are both big proponents of fresh pasta, so we have a few pasta dishes. We’re not a seafood restaurant, but we want to feature fish and shellfish when it’s appropriate, if it’s a product we feel represents where it’s from. How do the drink and dessert menus fit with your philosophy? on the bar side, all of our mixers and shrubs are made in house from local fruits and vegetables as much as possible. We have a well-curated wine list with some missouri wines. our beers, especially our eight tap selections, focus on missouri breweries in Columbia, st. louis, Kansas City and springfield. on the dessert menu, we want to focus on very simplified, rustic desserts. We have cornbread tres leches cake, for example. although it might have a latin name, it is most definitely missouri-tasting and -feeling. What has it been like to be both chef and co-owner? a lot of mentors talked me through what it’s like to be a chef-owner, but i don’t think anyone can truly prepare you for what goes into it. as a chef, you’re used to menu planning, food costs, hiring, and dealing with guests and vendors. When you’re working in a restaurant that is already operational, you don’t deal with designing, zoning and construction. [being owners] is outside of the scope of what my partners or i have done before, so it’s been a learning experience.

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SEPTEMbER TO NOvEMbER, MaY TO JUNE: KOhLRabI

IN SEASON

WRITTEn By nanCy STILES

A cousin of cabbage, kohlrabi can be eaten cooked or raw and comes in green and purple varieties. Chefs love it for its crunchy texture and hint of spice. stl

scallops

salad

ST. LOUIS. Bixby’s executive chef William Volny is

QUINCY, IL. Each week, chef-owner Kevn Minnick

excited to bring back kohlrabi this month in several preparations at the lunch-and-brunch spot inside the Missouri History Museum in St. Louis. Kohlrabi “scallops” replace the restaurant’s popular seasonal root veggie tart: Volny cuts the kohlrabi a little bigger than a normal scallop, sears it in butter on both sides and finishes it in the oven, as it’s a little dense. The “scallops” sit atop a butter bean-kohlrabi purée in a housemade tart crust, topped with braised kale, capers, lemon and a drizzle of parsley oil. They’re served with quinoa, roasted carrots, Brussels sprouts and a red- and green-kohlrabi slaw in a tarragon vinaigrette. “It absorbs a lot of flavors around it so you can work with it and make it taste differently,” he says. Volny also made kohlrabi fritters for the brunch Benedict this spring; look for that to make a comeback in the fall.

gets between 40 and 60 pounds of fresh seafood delivered to The Maine Course in Quincy, Illinois. “Whatever we buy, we buy,” he says, whether it’s a whole, 25-pound octopus, geoduck clams or Copper River coho salmon, the latter of which ran as a recent special. The whole fish was served with a green pepper-eggplant couscous and topped with a salad of kohlrabi, heirloom tomatoes, pomegranate drinking vinegar and Hawaiian-smoked sea salt. The kohlrabi was peeled, julienned and served raw, though Minnick “crisped it up” first in some ice water. “The only things we don’t make in house are ketchup, bread and mustard,” he says. “We make everything else.” Minnick says he takes an artistic approach to food – he has a degree in ceramics from Oklahoma State University – but he doesn’t like to call The Maine Course fancy, as he’s a “shorts, T-shirt and flip-flops kind of guy.” Don’t let that fool you: Snag a spot at the chef’s table for a one-of-a-kind meal or sample one of the 215 bottles of whiskey on offer.

Bixby’s, 5700 Lindell Blvd., at the Missouri History Museum, Forest Park, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.361.7313, bixbys-mohistory.com

parmesan

SPRINGFIELD, MO. Chef-owner James Martin takes pride

PHOTOGRaPHy By DInaMIS90/ISTOCK

in showcasing local vegetables on the menu at Gilardi’s Ristorante in Springfield, Missouri’s historic downtown, especially those he grows himself in the restaurant’s two gardens. He recently planted kohlrabi that he’ll harvest in the spring, but for now, his kohlrabi Parmesan is made from veggies sourced from local farmers’ markets. Martin starts by making kohlrabi patties that are breaded in a basil-oregano panko blend and then seared in clarified butter. He tops the patties with fresh marinara and mozzarella before finishing them in the oven. “I wanted to do something different with kohlrabi, and that just came out,” Martin says. “I think a couple glasses of wine probably helped me, as well!” He says customers often come into Gilardi’s asking what to do with produce they see at the farmers’ market but aren’t sure how to cook at home, like kohlrabi. “If you’re a new cook or someone who hasn’t cooked with [kohlrabi] before, just follow the recipe, and it’s very easy.” Gilardi’s Ristorante, 820 E. Walnut St. Suite A, Springfield, Missouri, 417.862.6400, gilardisonwalnut.com feastmagazine.com

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The Maine Course, 626 Maine St., Quincy, Illinois, 217.222.6244, mainecoursequincy.com

KohlrAbi PArmesAn RECIPE COURTESy JaMES MaRTIn, CHEf-OWnER, GILaRDI’S RISTORanTE SERVES | 4 | KOhLRabI PaTTIES

3 3 ¾ ½ ¼ ¼ ¼ 2 ₁⁄₈

Tbsp unsalted butter cups coarsely shredded kohlrabi cup chopped red bell pepper cup shredded carrots cup diced onion cup Parmesan cup garlic tsp fresh thyme tsp Himalayan pink sea salt freshly ground black pepper, to taste

KOhLRabI PaRMESaN

2 cups flour pinch salt and black pepper 2 eggs 2 cups panko bread crumbs pinch chopped fresh basil pinch chopped fresh oregano ½ stick clarified butter ¼ cup fresh marinara 2 oz shredded mozzarella

| preparation – kohlrabi patties | In a sauté pan over medium heat, add butter and then kohlrabi, bell pepper, carrots and onion and sauté until crisp and tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in remaining ingredients and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer kohlrabi mixture to a sheet pan and cool in refrigerator, 15 minutes. Once mixture has cooled, separate into 4 equal patties. Squeeze as much moisture as possible out of patties, form and set aside. | preparation – kohlrabi parmesan | Preheat oven to 350°f. In a bowl, combine flour with salt and pepper. In a separate bowl, add eggs and whisk lightly. In a third bowl, combine bread crumbs with basil and oregano. Dip patties in flour mixture, then use a silicone kitchen brush to coat with egg wash and dredge in bread crumbs until covered. In a hot skillet, heat clarified butter and sear patties, 1 minute each side or until browned. Top with 1 Tbsp each marinara and mozzarella and transfer to oven for 2 minutes to finish. Serve.

N eo o

cherven desauguste chef-owner, mesob

q&A

WRITTEN BY PETE DULIN

KANSAS CITY. At Mesob in Midtown

Kansas City, chef-owner Cherven Desauguste uses French-inspired culinary techniques to prepare Caribbean and Ethiopian cuisine with a refined presentation. Raised in Port-au-Prince, Haiti, Desauguste eventually moved to Miami and briefly studied culinary arts at Johnson & Wales University in North Miami. He interned at a fine-dining seafood restaurant before working as a cook at hotels, casinos and catering jobs. In 1999, he moved to Kansas City to be closer to family and learned about a wide variety of cuisines and styles while working in kitchens across the area, including Argosy Casino Hotel & Spa and Lakewood Oaks Golf Club in Lee’s Summit, Missouri. His first restaurant, Mesob Pikliz, closed a few years ago, but not long after, Desauguste found the Broadway Boulevard location for his current expanded concept. Following a nearly two-year build out, Desauguste opened Mesob this past spring with a fine-dining approach to two wholly different cuisines.

Mesob, 3600 Broadway Blvd. #105, Midtown, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.492.5099, mesobkc.com

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Besides the location, how is the new Mesob different from your previous restaurant? I now have double the kitchen space, so I’m able to boost the Caribbean side of the menu and put a focus on plating and presentation. It’s the same base, but I give customers more bold flavor and technique. In Haitian cuisine, you don’t [usually] cook with wine, [but] I manipulate a dish like oxtail or Poulet Maison [oven-roasted half-chicken with Chardonnay-Creole sauce] by adding wine for acidity and complexity while keeping the bold flavor. I go beyond red beans and rice to showcase native cuisine like goat stew, legumes and black mushroom rice. I added papayas and use beets as a natural, bright coloring agent in my legumes [a dish with many stewed vegetables] instead of traditional acidic tomato paste – I adapted a century-old dish as a professional chef who knows how to manipulate ingredients. Why do you emphasize presentation in your dishes? In Haiti, you eat food because it tastes good. It is food on one plate with no art or focus on presentation. I gravitate to different fine-dining looks to make plates beautiful. The eyes tell us what we’re about to eat. What are the differences between Ethiopian and Caribbean cuisine? Caribbean food from Haiti, Jamaica and Barbados uses fresh fruit, herbs, garlic and marinades. Ethiopian relies on dry spices, such as berbere, for flavor, like in India. Mesob will never be fusion; native customers know how the food is supposed to taste, so I keep the menus and flavors separate. I focus on the integrity of the dish and ingredients. I try to sell flavor and experience – small details are important. Flavor is like building a house step by step, such as sweating garlic or okra, to get the right end result. Tell us about your favorite dish. A chef gravitates to what he or she likes to cook: I love seafood. Seafood is delicate – I can manipulate it with sweetness, wine or bitterness to create profound flavor. You have more control and creativity than with meat. My interpretation of cioppino uses mussels, Chilean sea bass, lobster and blue crab, but it is more like a stew with coconut milk, saffron and fennel for Caribbean flavor. I make a nest of angel hair pasta with boursin and Parmesan cheeses and set it on top of the seafood stew.

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Regional RestauRant guide As proud supporters of Feast Magazine, we encourage you to visit any of these fine establishments. From fine dining to fast casual to local wineries, there is an array of experiences to choose from, so support and eat local!

1818 Chophouse 210 S. Buchanan St. Edwardsville, IL 618.307.9300 1818chophouse.com

Bella Vino Wine Bar & Tapas 325 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.3434 bellavinowinebarstl.com

Doc’s Smokehouse 1017 Century Drive Edwardsville, IL 618.656.6060 docssmokehouse.com

King & I 3157 S. Grand Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.771.1777 kingandistl.com

2nd Shift Brewing 1401 Olive Road New Haven, MO 573.237.3421 2ndshiftbrewing.com

Best Regards Bakery & Café 6759 W. 119th St. Overland Park, KS 913.912.7238 makethemsmile.com

Drunken Fish multiple locations drunkenfish.com

Klondike Café at Montelle Vineyard 201 Montelle Drive at MO Highway 94 Augusta, MO 636.228.4464 montelle.com

4 Hands Brewing Co. 1220 S. Eighth St. St. Louis, MO 314.436.1559 4handsbrewery.com

Bissell Mansion Restaurant & Dinner Theatre 4426 Randall Place St. Louis, MO 314.533.9830 bissellmansiontheatre.com

Duke’s 2001 Menard St. St. Louis, MO 314.833.6686 dukesinsoulard.com

LaChance Vineyards 12237 Peter Moore Lane De Soto, MO 636.586.2777 lachancevineyards.com

44 Canteen 21 N. Ninth St. Columbia, MO 573.777.8730 44canteen.com

Café Ventana 3919 W. Pine Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.531.7500 cafeventana.com

Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard 10035 Edg-Clif Drive Potosi, MO 573.438.4741 edg-clif.com

La Cosecha Coffee Roasters 7360 Manchester Road Maplewood, MO 314.440.0337 lacosechacoffee.com

44 Stone Public House 3910 Peachtree Drive Columbia, MO 573.443.2726 44stonepub.com

Castelli’s Restaurant at 255 3400 Fosterburg Road Alton, IL 618.462.4620 castellis255.com

EdgeWild Restaurant & Winery 550 Chesterfield Center Chesterfield, MO 636.532.0550 edgewildwinery.com

Mai Lee 8396 Musick Memorial Drive Brentwood, MO 314.645.2835 maileestl.com

Andria’s Countryside 7415 State Route 143 Edwardsville, IL 618.656.0281 andriascountryside.com

Catrina’s 1027 Century Drive Edwardsville, IL 618.692.5522 facebook.com/catrinaslatincuisine

Farmer’s Gastropub 2620 S. Glenstone Ave. Springfield, MO 417.864.6994 farmersgastropub.com

Massa’s multiple locations stlmassas.com

Annie’s Frozen Custard 245 S. Buchanan St. | 11 Illini Drive Edwardsville, IL | Glen Carbon, IL 618.656.0289 | 618.692.0400 anniesfrozencustard.com

Chaz on the Plaza at the Raphael Hotel 325 Ward Parkway Kansas City, MO 816.802.2152 raphaelkc.com

Fratelli’s Ristorante 2061 Zumbehl Road St. Charles, MO 636.949.9005 fratellisristorante.com

McGurks Public House 108 S. Main St. O’Fallon, MO 636.978.9640 mcgurkspublichouse.com

Aya Sofia 6671 Chippewa St. St. Louis, MO 314.645.9919 ayasofiacuisine.com

Cleveland-Heath 106 N. Main St. Edwardsville, IL 618.307.4830 clevelandheath.com

Gallagher’s Restaurant 114 W. Mill St. Waterloo, IL 618.939.9933 gallagherswaterloo.com

Pappy’s Smokehouse 3106 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.535.4340 pappyssmokehouse.com

Baiku Sushi Lounge 3407 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.896.2500 baikustl.com

Corner Restaurant 4059 Broadway Kansas City, MO 816.931.4401 thecornerkc.com

Hendricks BBQ 1200 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.8600 hendricksbbq.com

Plank Road Pizza 5212 State Highway N Cottleville, MO plankroadpizza.com

Balducci Vineyards 6601 Highway 94 S Augusta, MO 636.482.8466 balducciswineryandrestaurant.com

Cottleville Cookies & Cream 5525 Oak St. Cottleville, MO 636.336.2488 cottlevillecookiesandcream.com

Herbie’s Vintage 72 405 N. Euclid Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.769.9595 herbies.com

Q39 1000 W. 39th St. Kansas City, MO 816.255.3753 q39kc.com

Bella Milano’s multiple locations bellamilanos.com

Diablito’s 3761 Laclede Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.644.4430 diablitoscantina.com

Kaldi’s Coffee multiple locations kaldiscoffee.com

Ravanelli’s Restaurant 3AmericanVillage|26CollinsportDrive Granite City, IL | Collinsville, IL 618.877.8000 | 618.343.9000 ravanellis.com

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RendezvousCafé 217 S. Main St. O’Fallon, MO 636.707.1339 restaurantsstcharlesmo.com

TheBiergartenatAnheuser-Busch 1200 Lynch St. St. Louis, MO 314.577.2626 budweisertours.com

RetreatGastropub 6 N. Sarah St. St. Louis, MO 314.261.4497 retreatgastropub.com

TheJacobson 2050 Central St. Kansas City, MO 816.423.2888 thejacobsonkc.com

RöbllerVineyard&Winery 275 Robller Vineyard Road New Haven, MO 573.237.3986 robllerwines.com

TheMuddledPigGastropub 2733 Sutton Blvd. Maplewood, MO 314.781.4607 themuddledpig.com

RouxRoyale 3331 Rue Royale St. Charles, MO 636.925.0941 facebook.com/rouxroyale

Tom’sTownDistilling 1701 Main St. Kansas City, MO 816.541.2400 toms-town.com

Sanctuaria 4198 Manchester Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.535.9700 sanctuariastl.com

TrattoriaGiuseppe 5442 Old St. Route 21 Imperial, MO 636.942.2405 trattoria-giuseppe.com

SchlaflyTapRoom andSchlaflyBottleworks multiple locations schlafly.com

TrufflesandButchery 9202 Clayton Road St. Louis, MO 314.567.9100 todayattruffles.com

SillyGoose 5501 Locust St. Augusta, MO 636.482.4667 sillygoosemo.com

TurtleCreekPubandGrill 128 Triad Center W O’Fallon, MO 636.294.3458 turtlecreekpub.com

SouthtownPub 3707 S. Kingshighway Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.832.9009 southtownpub.net

TwistedTree 10701 Watson Road St. Louis, MO 314.394.3366 twistedtreesteakhouse.com

SquareOneBreweryandDistillery 1727 Park Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.231.2537 squareonebrewery.com

UrbanChestnutBrewingCo. 3229 Washington Ave. 4465 Mancester Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.222.0143 urbanchestnut.com

StoneHillWinery 1110 Stone Hill Highway Hermann, MO 573.486.2221 stonehillwinery.com

VoxVineyards 19310 NW Farley Hampton Road #3 Kansas City, MO 816.354.4903 voxvineyards.com

SugarCreekWinery 125 Boone County Lane Defiance, MO 636.987.2400 sugarcreekwines.com

WildSunWinery 4830 Pioneer Road Hillsboro, MO 636.797.8686 wildsunwinery.com

Sugo’sSpaghetteria 243HarvardDrive|10419ClaytonRoad Edwardsville, IL | Frontenac, MO 618.659.4640 | 314.569.0400 sugoscucina.com

WoodCask 10332 Manchester Road Kirkwood, MO 314.858.1085 thewoodcask.com

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showmefarms.com Show Me farms 7750 e highway Ab columbia, Mo 573-881-0835 Inspired Local Food Culture

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keep it cool

Chill out at Narwhal’s Crafted Urban Ice in St. Louis with the Flying Grasshopper, which combines vodka, crème de menthe, crème de cacao and housemade mint-chocolate chip ice cream on p. 36. photography by mabel suen

trending now: Kombucha

on trend

Written by bethany christo PhotograPhy by jonathan gayman

Fermented from tea using a SCOBY – an acronym for symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeast – kombucha is a refreshing drink known for its health benefits that’s been brewed for over 2,000 years. Containing B vitamins and probiotics, kombucha is often flavored with fruit, roots and herbs, including these locally brewed brands available on grocery store shelves.

RuBY PORCh Swing reciPes by tom and tricia nieder, oWners, comPanion Kombucha serVes | 1 |

1 4

ice oz Cointreau oz Companion Kombucha Very Elderberry limoncello, to taste orange slice (for garnish)

| preparation | in a large wine glass over ice, combine cointreau and kombucha. top with limoncello. garnish with orange slice.

BOuRBOn POmme serVes | 1 |

e of Try all fiv ion n compa ha’s c Kombu ry h c u as Ve flavors s y p y, Snap Elderberr h d Punc y Ginger an nate Pomegra

1 ¼ 3

ice oz single-barrel bourbon oz sweet vermouth oz Companion Kombucha Crisp Apple-Cinnamon dash Angostura bitters cinnamon stick (for garnish) cherry (for garnish)

| preparation | in a mixing glass over ice, combine all ingredients except garnishes, stir and chill. strain and serve neat in a chilled glass. garnish with cinnamon stick and cherry.

ginger

FAIRFIELD, IA. It’s a Dowd family affair at Shaktea Kombucha, with brother,

Jack; sister, Meghan; and mom, Deb, brewing seven flavors of kombucha in Fairfield, Iowa. In commercial operation since 2011, the family has home-brewed kombucha for almost 15 years. Meghan and Jack became fans after living and working in California. “I think your body starts to crave it,” Meghan says, “because you feel so good after drinking it. We see Shaktea as nourishing energy – an energy drink without all the negative side effects like jitters or tons of caffeine.” Shaktea (pronounced shock-tea) was named after the Sanskrit word shakti, which means energy, and Meghan says it helps aid digestion, giving your gut a healthy dose of beneficial bacteria, enzymes and acids. The kombucha is made in small batches with a base blend of USDA-certified organic, fair-trade black and green teas, which is then fermented for two weeks. Top sellers include its ginger flavors – ginger ale, ginger-raspberry and ginger-blueberry – and tart cherry, which are all flavored with organic fruit juices or purées. Find Shaktea Kombucha in select Hy-Vees and Whole Foods Markets in Iowa, Missouri, Kansas and southern Illinois – check its website for specific locations. Shaktea Kombucha, shakteakombucha.com

stl

dry-hopped

ST. LouIS. Tom Nieder handed his eldest brother – who worked at

Anheuser-Busch for 30 years and is not a kombucha fan – a sample of Companion Kombucha’s newest flavor, Love and Hoppiness. After smelling and sampling it, his brother was hooked by its grapefruit, passion fruit and hoppy notes, which came from dry-hopping a blend of two hops into the black tea-kombucha base. Tom and his wife, Tricia, poured their life savings into the St. Louis kombucha brewery, which launched in April 2015 but had been in R&D for 15 months prior. The pair have been regularly drinking kombucha for health reasons since 2010. “You go to California, and you can’t throw a rock without hitting a bottle of kombucha,” Tom says. “Not in St. Louis. Seventy percent of people who come up to us have never heard of it.” Companion is made with ingredients that are beneficial on their own – pomegranate, elderberry, ginger – and doubly so when added to kombucha. Companion sources all-natural, organic fruit juices and fresh ginger root to steep with the fermented tea. Look for Companion Kombucha in Dierbergs, Lucky’s Markets and Whole Foods Markets across the St. Louis area, as well as in Columbia, Missouri, and Kansas City later this year. Companion Kombucha, 314.669.6919, companionkombucha.com

aronia berry

KANSAS CITY. Two different fermented products – craft beer and sourdough bread – were the inspiration for The Brewkery’s Lucky Elixir Kombucha line in Kansas City. Co-owners Amy Goldman and Sean Galloway were planning to make bread and beer, but they also wanted to create a nonalcoholic drink to sell at the Merriam Farmers’ Market, as you can’t sell beer. A friend taught Amy how to make kombucha – a drink she had tried on occasion – and the marketgoers loved it. By March 2016 Goldman and Galloway were commercially bottling and distributing three all-natural flavors made with a black tea base using local Hugo Tea Co. tea. Try flavors like ginger-lime or Aronia berry, a North American superberry also known as chokeberry. “The Aronia berry has a lot of tannins in it, and it has one of the highest levels of antioxidants of any fruit,” Goldman says. “People see ‘berry’ and expect it to be sweet, but it’s more similar to a red wine, very dry and a bit tart.” Look for four rotating flavors on tap each week at the farmers’ market, including Spiced, a pumpkin-pie spice mix flavor akin to chai tea, returning this fall. Bottles are available at 21 retailers in the metro area, including Hen House Marketplaces and The Sundry.

The Brewkery, brewkery.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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WINE

ladoga ridge Winery’S 2013 galen’S red written by Hilary HeDgeS

provenance: Smithville, Missouri pairings: Sirloin steak • Italian sausage • Smoked brisket

Ladoga Ridge Winery’s galen’s red, named after its winemaker, is a medium- to full-bodied red made with 100 percent Missouri-sourced Chambourcin grapes. it has bold flavors of black cherry, hints of green peppercorn and smoky notes that linger on the palate. the wine is aged on French oak chips for 10 months, then in Missouri oak barrels for another eight, giving it a deep complexity and a smooth finish. this fall-perfect red was awarded a Medal of excellence from the Jefferson Cup invitational wine Competition in 2015. Ladoga Ridge Winery, 816.866.4077, ladogaridgewinery.com Hilary Hedges is a former newsie whose passion for wine led her out of the newsroom and into the cellar. She is currently the director of sales and marketing and assistant winemaker at Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City’s West Bottoms.

BEER

perennial artiSan aleS’ MeriWetHer written by branDon niCkelSon

style: belgian-style saison (5.5% abV) pairings: Cracked-pepper steak • Brie • Sweet strawberry biscuits

September gives us the first hint of fall, and transitioning our palates is definitely on the agenda this time of year. this season, St. louis’ Perennial Artisan Ales is re-releasing Meriwether, its collaboration brewed with the Commons brewery out of Portland, oregon. Meriwether is a belgian-style saison fermented with a 50-50 mix of the two breweries’ house saison yeast strains. the beer was dry-hopped during fermentation and then bottle-conditioned to allow it to develop. the resulting brew has aromas of black pepper and lemongrass and sweet grass and floral notes. the flavor features delicate stone-fruit esters, crackerlike malts, lots of tongue-scrubbing carbonation and a subtle herbaceous quality that’s perfect for the transition from summer to fall.

n eo o

on the shelf : september picks

Stl q&a

aaron kleidon co-owner, scratch brewing co. written by SaraH kloePPle

ava, il. Scratch Brewing Co.

was founded in ava, illinois, after aaron kleidon met Marika Josephson and ryan tockstein at a nearby bar during a beer-tasting event in 2010. the trio combined their strengths, and three years later Scratch brewing opened. the brewpub focuses on seasonal, foraged ingredients – many of which can be found in its own backyard. kleidon has been familiar with plants since he was young, and together with Josephson, the brewmaster, they create fresh beers and food to serve in its tasting room. after tockstein left at the beginning of this year, Scratch brought on kris Pirmann and adriane koontz, both of whom kleidon says have helped immensely with farming and harvesting. Scratch recently bottled its first beer, Chanterelle biere de garde, which was released in May, and has debuted a new bottled beer each month since. Scratch will also release a how-to and recipe book for brewing beer with a sense of place, The Homebrewer’s Almanac, on Sept. 13.

When he’s not writing, Matt Sorrell can be found slinging drinks at Planter’s House in St. Louis’ Lafayette Square or bartending at events around town with his wife, Beth, for their company, Cocktails Are Go.

Scratch Brewing Co., 264 Thompson Road, Ava, Illinois, 618.426.1415, scratchbeer.com

Perennial Artisan Ales, 314.631.7300, perennialbeer.com Brothers Brandon and Ryan Nickelson are available to help with beer picks and pairing recommendations at their store, Craft Beer Cellar, the only all-craft beer shop in the St. Louis area. Craft Beer Cellar is located at 8113 Maryland Ave. in Clayton, Missouri. To learn more, call 314.222.2444 or visit craftbeercellar.com/clayton.

SPIRIT

Wood Hat SpiritS’ Berry Berry Cordial written by Matt Sorrell

provenance: new Florence, Missouri (20% abV) try it: as the crowning ingredient in a bramble

Wood Hat Spirits in Montgomery County, Missouri, prides itself on producing spirits from field to glass, and this fruit-forward cordial is the epitome of that ethos. it’s made with locally grown blackberries for the utmost flavor, and it’s built on wood Hat’s blue-corn distillate, which itself is crafted from corn that’s grown and ground locally. berry berry Cordial has been recognized nationally, taking home a bronze medal at the american Distilling institute’s annual craft spirits competition in 2014. the cordial’s low alcohol content means it can be enjoyed as a solo sipper, and it’s also a fine addition to cocktails.

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PHotograPHy by DeMonD Meek

Wood Hat Spirits, 573.216.3572, woodhatspirits.com

How do you, Marika, Kris and Adriane complement one another? we have a much more diverse knowledge base; everybody has his or her expertise. everybody’s aware of who knows what. i would say Marika heads the brewing side of things – formulating recipes. My addition would be [knowledge of] local, wild plants. My great-grandparents were farmers. My grandparents [and parents] had a big garden and fruit trees, so i’ve been around plants my whole life. kris and adriane, they come at it from a different angle. they farmed commercial vegetables and herbs. they have a lot more knowledge when it comes to scaling up different things. Tell us about your first bottled beer. we bottled Chanterelle biere de garde. i gathered all the mushrooms from the brewery’s property and some of our neighbor’s property. we gathered 110 pounds of chanterelle mushrooms, and we put all of those mushrooms into the beer at various times throughout the whole process. i think it’s one of my favorite beers we’ve brewed. it’s a light, amber color; it’s really rich, earthy and tastes like apricots to me. What’s unique about the plants found in southern Illinois? the plant diversity is really broad here because we are kind of at the center [of the country] and relatively close to two of the main rivers in the United States. we have things that have been brought down north with the glaciers, and then we have prairie plants that stretch into southern illinois. the Shawnee national Forest – we’re on the edge of that, as well. and even some of the plants from the southern United States stretch up into the tip of southern illinois. there are all these different regions of plants that converge right around here. you can grow just about anything here. Why do you forage for ingredients? we forage for several reasons. there’s quite an abundance of plants that we can readily use nearby. if we can use plants that are currently growing without hurting their population and it’s a sustained harvest year after year, it’s one less thing we have to source from farther away. our goal, over time, would be to create a drink that’s distinctively our area. What’s one of your favorite ingredients to work with? i would say hickory trees. [they’re] really versatile: you can use the bark of the tree, the nut, the wood, the leaves. Why did you, Marika and Ryan decide to write The Homebrewer’s Almanac? it was a way we could share what we’ve learned. also because so much of our knowledge exists in our heads, and it’s an exercise for us to write this stuff down so that this knowledge could be passed on and wouldn’t be lost. What’s next for Scratch? we source our grains from far away, so i know a few long-term goals are to get some malting experiments going here, and then just to work with our local businesses and local farmers and really try to build community in our area.

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where we’re drinking Check out what we’re sipping at bars, restaurants, breweries, wineries and coffee shops.

narwhal’s crafted urban ice

stl

The debut menu features 14 different flavors in varying shades and sizes such as ST. LOUIS. at Narwhal’s Crafted Urban Ice, the Flying grasshopper with vodka, crème co-owners Brandon holzhueter and Brad Merten offer much more than the standard de menthe, crème de cacao, housemade mint-chocolate chip ice cream, frozen daiquiri. The cool new concept dark-chocolate shavings and a sprig of borders St. louis’ Central West end and mint. Other selections include frozen Midtown neighborhoods and features Mojitos and negronis as well as a peach frozen alcoholic drinks made with fresh Old Fashioned with rye whiskey, bourbon, ingredients and from-scratch infusions triple sec, puréed fresh peaches, orange and purées. juice, house simple syrup and a dash of orange bitters. Try the carefully crafted Inspired by its playful narwhal logo, the interior features a nautical theme: Splashes cocktails in sizes that range from flights (three 6-ounce tastes) up to a frosty of aquamarine accents on the walls 40-ounce fishbowl for sharing – a whale of commingle with weathered, repurposed a good time no matter what you choose. wooden planks; decorative ropes; and a sleek black bar top illuminated from Narwhal’s Crafted Urban Ice, 3906 Laclede overhead with modern lighting. The space Ave., Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, is set up for quick service for its 50 indoor 314.696.8388, narwhalscrafted.com seats and 45 or so on its spacious patio. STOry and PhOTOgraPhy By MaBel Suen

photoGraphy by StarboarD & port CreatiVe

Written by Jenny VerGara

crown valley branson Written by Sarah Kloepple

BRANSON, MO. Crown Valley Branson,

sister of Crown Valley Winery and Crown Valley brewing & Distilling Co. in St. Genevieve, Missouri, opened its doors in branson, Missouri, in april and distills its trio of whiskeys on site: cinnamon, cherry-maple and corn. For a refreshing cocktail, manager tena Smith recommends mixing the cherry-maple whiskey with orange juice and a splash of grenadine. it also offers family-friendly options in the form of its craft sodas, which include classic flavors like cream soda, 36

feastmagazine.com

root beer and black cherry. beers, wines and spirits from Crown Valley’s winery and brewery also dot the drink list. Crown Valley branson hopes to provide and champion more Missouri-made products while contributing to the history of branson. the distillery also offers one-hour Vip tours or 30-minute general tours that are $2 or complimentary with a tasting purchase. Crown Valley Branson, 1420 W. 76 Country Blvd., Branson, Missouri, 417.213.4254, crownvalleybranson.com

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kANSAS city. after a quick three-week flip, bread & butter Concepts turned its Spanish tapas restaurant, república, into The Oliver in June. the goal was to reimagine the casual Midwestern dining experience by serving all-american food and drinks at modest prices in a modern tavern atmosphere in Kansas City’s Country Club plaza. always an area of excellence at any bread & butter-owned spot is the drink menu: the oliver’s playful beverage program, developed by bread & butter’s beverage director Scott tipton, packs a seriously boozy punch.

order an innovative house-bottled cocktail like the beaches, with rum, yellow Charteuse, falernum, pineapple and ginger. Craft beers and wine selections round out the straightforward drink menu. happy hour is offered Monday through Friday from 3 to 6pm, featuring three appetizers for $6 and a small selection of cocktails, wine and beer for $5 or less. The Oliver, 4807 Jefferson St., Country Club Plaza, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.384.2500, theoliverkc.com

photoGraphy by anna petroW

the oliver

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jenn tosatto

WINNING WINES

bar manager, q39

q&A

WRITTeN BY SARAh KLOePPLe

KANSAS CITY. Jenn Tosatto has

been bartending in the Kansas City area since 2007, and she has no intention of slowing down – just ask the folks at Q39. The Westport barbecue joint, which has announced plans for expansion and a second location, recently welcomed her as the new bar manager, and Tosatto intends to essentially build Q39’s bar program from the bottom up. She was originally a barback at now-shuttered Bar Natasha before being promoted to bartender and moving on to gigs at The Rieger and Dempsey’s Burger Pub. Tosatto is also one of the people behind a bartending contest known as the Midwest Melee at the annual Paris of the Plains Cocktail Festival held last month, where bartenders from five different teams around the Midwest compete in trials that not only test their bartending skills but also things like teamwork and creativity. Now, she’s accepted the challenge of pairing cocktails with barbecue.

Q39, 1000 W. 39th St., Westport, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.255.3753, q39kc.com

come visit us

on the hill

ng i eew sum r B g tcha

newly relocated brewery new tasting room

 

1601 Sublette Ave | St Louis, MO 63110

open later this summer

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tunes & balloons

september 24, 2016 PhOTOGRAPhY BY zACh BAuMAN

Why did you make the move to Q39? I always knew that eventually I wanted to run my own bar program, but it was a matter of waiting for the perfect opportunity to come along. I’m a single mom now, so it had to be a place that could work with the fact that I need [to work] mostly in the daytime. It needed to be somewhere that I believed in. I’ve loved Q39 in the few years it’s been open – the food is phenomenal. [Chef-owner Rob Magee and I] both have this passion: The passion that he has for barbecue is the same passion that I have about spirits and cocktails. I think it was a perfect match. How do you hope to build and change the bar program at Q39? It’s going to take some work because pairing cocktails with barbecue can be tricky, but it’s a really fun challenge. Q39 does such high volume – there are a lot of people there. It’s going to be finding that balance of making really great, quality cocktails really fast. I want to use kitchen ingredients in some of the cocktails; there will definitely be aspects of smoke. I definitely know there’s going to be some focus on whiskey, scotch and sherry because those flavors are going to work incredibly well with barbecue. What’s the most important thing you’ve learned about bartending? Don’t be a jerk. You have to maintain a level head about everything and truly think about what you’re doing, like in any career. A mindful bartender is actually something that [author and spirits-industry expert] Gaz Regan says, which I take very much to heart. If you’re a mindful bartender, you’re going to be a successful bartender. What inspired you to start the Midwest Melee? It actually started as a grudge match between me and St. Louis bartender Matt Seiter [who writes The Mix column in Feast]. It started as a one-on-one, head-to-head competition between Kansas City and St. Louis. The next year, I thought, “That was fun. What if we did it more? What if we did a Midwestern thing?” What else are you excited to do at Q39? The other big thing about Q39 is how excited I am to be coming on when I’m coming on. Q39 has got some big things coming up. By the end of this year, we’re going to be expanding the original location, which is super exciting. Next year, we’ll look to be opening a new location in Overland Park, Kansas. Coming in on the precipice of that kind of expansion is, one, terrifying and, two, incredibly exciting. I’m really thrilled that Rob chose me to take this journey with him.

wine tasting • vineyard tour • special events • craft beers

music by red light radio from 1 pm to 5 pm $5 cover charge Watch the balloons take off while enjoying music, wine and food 275 Robller Vineyard Rd. | New Haven, MO 63068 www.robllerwines.com | 573.237.3986 Inspired Local Food Culture

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CuCumber Collins SToRY AND ReCIPe BY MATT SeITeR PhoToGRAPhY BY JoNAThAN GAYMAN

Homemade GinGer Beer YIeLDS | 3 quarts |

10 ¾ ½ 3 2½

oz fresh ginger cup granulated sugar vanilla bean, seeded oz lime juice quarts water

| preparation | Using a food processor, finely mince ginger. In a large saucepot, combine ginger, sugar and vanilla bean seeds and macerate for 10 minutes at room temperature. Add remaining ingredients, transfer saucepot to stove over medium heat and simmer 20 minutes. Remove from heat and rest, 10 minutes. Strain through a cheesecloth into a container, reserving solids in cheesecloth. Squeeze solids until all possible liquid is extracted. Discard solids. Allow liquid to cool to room temperature and refrigerate overnight. Refrigerate a soda siphon along with strained ginger beer. | to serve | The next day, pour 1 quart ginger beer into soda siphon; charge with carbon dioxide cartridge. You can serve immediately, but the longer it sits under pressure, the more carbonation it will have.

CuCumBer Collins ReCIPe BY BRookSeY CARDWeLL SeRveS | 1 |

3 7 2 4 2

lime wedges mint leaves ice oz Square One Organic Spirits Cucumber vodka oz ginger beer (recipe above) slices cucumber (for garnish) mint sprig (for garnish)

| preparation | In a Collins glass, gently muddle lime wedges and mint leaves. Add ice, vodka and 2 ounces ginger beer. Stir for a few seconds; add more ice and top with remaining ginger beer. Rub cucumber slices around edge of glass and place on top of drink. Garnish with a mint sprig.

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Bars are using ginger beer today nearly as much as they are club soda and tonic. It’s become a bar staple and an excellent addition to everything from highballs to revived classic drinks; many bars are even making their own. As a bartender, a question I’m often asked is, “What’s the difference between ginger beer and ginger ale?” The short answer: not much. The long answer: When both products were first being produced, ginger beer was brewed like beer, with yeast, ginger, sugar, lemon juice and honey. It had alcohol and a slight natural carbonation to it. Ginger ale was basically sugar-water flavored with ginger and even capsicum and force carbonated. In today’s market, though, most ginger beers are nonalcoholic; when you see ginger beer and ale on store shelves or a cocktail menu, ginger beer is going to have a sharper ginger spiciness to it compared to ginger ale, and both are going to be force carbonated and nonalcoholic. You can find some ginger beers

that do contain alcohol and some bartenders using yeast to ferment and carbonate the final product, but those recipes are few and far between. We include one here that’s easy to make at home, flavored with fresh ginger and carbonated with a soda siphon, which can be purchased at most kitchen stores. As far as drinks go, the Moscow Mule (vodka, lime juice, ginger beer) is seeing a huge revival of its own. Bar tops dotted with copper mugs have become the norm. New York bartender Audrey Saunders propelled the use of ginger in cocktails back in the early ‘00s with her Gin-Gin Mule (gin, lime, simple syrup, mint, ginger beer). In the spirit of making the old new again (with a twist), here’s a delightful libation from St. Louis’ own Brooksey Cardwell, bar manager at Cardwell’s at the Plaza (and my lovely wife), that is a Moscow Mule mixed with a Mojito, plus cucumber.

Matt Seiter is co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild (USBG)’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program, author of The Dive Bar of Cocktail Bars, bar manager at BC’s Kitchen, and a bar and restaurant consultant.

ating r b e Cel

Over 75 Years

ss in Busine

Over 300 Craft Beers  Large Wine Shop Huge Whiskey, Bourbon & Scotch Selection

Dean’s Liquor 210 West Main St. | Collinsville, IL 618-344-4930 | deansliquor.com

Don’t drink coffee, enjoy it!

visit our

coffee Bar and roastary

7360 Manchester Rd. Maplewood, MO

Buy Online at LaCosechaCoffee.com

Family-owned vineyard  Nestled amidst the picturesque rolling hills of DeSoto, MO Tasting Room  A charming, intimate winery experience with first-class amenities Kitchen open offering variety of full menu items  Just a short drive from the South Couty area Music every Friday night, Saturday and Sunday afternoons. Such notables as: Trixie Delight Duo 9/11 from 1p-4p Rogers and Nienhaus 9/23 from 6p-10p Pat Liston of Mama’s Pride 9/30 from 6p-10p Like uS On facebOOk Stay up to date on all music and events at www.lachancevineyards.com 12237 Peter Moore Ln | De Soto,MO, 63020 | 636-586-2777

Inspired Local Food Culture

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Gallagher's Restaurant Serving the best fried chicken, house-ground burgers and premium steaks for over a decade! • 2016 Voted #1 BEST BURGER - by St. Louis Magazine Readers • 2016 Ian Froeb's Selected STL Top 100 Restaurant in St. Louis • 2015 & 2016 Voted #1 BEST FRIED CHICKEN by St. Louis Post-Dispatch & RFT Readers 114 W. Mill St. • Waterloo, IL • 618.939.9933 • gallagherswaterloo.com

Dine-In or Carry-out!

Gift Certificates Availabl

e!!

Full Menu • Full Bar • Banquet rooMs Dine-in • Carry-out

3400 Fosterburg Road, Alton, IL 62002 • 618.462-4620, castellis255.com

HOURS: TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY- 11AM - 9PM FRIDAY & SATURDAY - 11AM - 10PM, SUNDAY - 11AM - 9PM, MONDAY - CLOSED

Living Word Christian School THERE’S A PLACE FOR YOU! • • • • •

Experience life as an eagle - Tour every Thursday Call today to schedule your appointment One of the Top 50 Christian Schools in the U.S. by bestschools.org 1st in State for WYSE (World-Wide Youth Science & Engineering) 36 Teams across 14 Sports

Enrolling Now for 2016-2017 School Year

1145 Tom Ginnever Ave • O’Fallon • 636.978.1680 • lwcs.us

CSI:Bissell

Interactive Comedy Murder Mystery You are invited to attend an “After Party” in honor of the late billionaire, Seymour Butz. Minnie Butz, his widow, has invited his family and friends to the Bissell Mansion to help CSI Gristle recreate the crime scene. Will the evidence show the killer to be Jim Shorts, the health club employee, or Eggfoo Young, the cook at his favorite restaurant or was it his lawyer, Sue MeDry? Follow CSI Gristle as he questions the guests, gathers DNA samples and swabs for laughs, all while you enjoy a 4-course meal to Die for! Who knows? The killer might even be YOU! Call for reservations today at 314-533-9830 Bring this ad in for $10 off per person Valid through September 2016 Not valid for groups

Bissell Mansion Dinner Theatre

4426 Randall Place • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • bissellmansion.com 40

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Promotion

Massa’s

the silly goose

Delicious, Local, Italian Food… Massa’s, of course! Massa’s offers dinner and drink specials every night of the week, Karaoke on Tuesday, Trivia on Wednesday, Live Music on Saturday. Come for the food, stay for the fun! Mon 11am-12am/ Tues-Sat 11am-1:30am/ Sun 11am-11pm 3761 New Town Blvd., St Charles 636-925-2961

Located in the heart of downtown Augusta, The Silly Goose invites guests to enjoy fresh, farm-to-table cuisine in a laid-back atmosphere. The Silly Goose menu is a casual mix of Creole, French, Southern and comfort foods that change to reflect the fresh flavors of each season. Augusta MO 63332 Sillygoosemo.com 636-482-4667

Cottleville Cookies & Cream

plank road pizza If great tasting hand-crafted artisan pizza is what you are craving, Plank Road Pizza in Historic Cottleville is the place you have been looking for. Made from scratch crust and sauce are the base for their creations named after the historic streets that surround them. Whether you are dining on the beautiful patio, in one of the dining rooms, or order online you won’t be disappointed.

Enjoy a cool treat in the heart of Historic Cottleville! Try one of our famous scratchmade waffle cones or add your favorite flavor nestled in between two of our home made cookies for an unbelievable ice cream sandwich. Enjoy your favorite treat in our gorgeously restored dining room or on the spacious patio that can accommodate large parties.

5212 Hwy N Cottleville, MO 63304 www.PlankRoadPizza.com

5525 Oak St Cottleville, MO 63304 www.CottlevilleCookiesandCream.com

roux royale bar & bistro

Rendezvous CafÉ & Wine baR

Roux Royale Bar & Bistro…a bar with hand crafted cocktails, a bistro with a creole flair. This hidden gem, only a couple minutes off the beaten path in New Town St. Charles, also offers beautiful patio dining.

Rendezvous Café & Wine Bar is a quaint coffee shop and wine bar located in North O’Fallon, open daily at 8:00 AM. In addition to great food, over 400 different wines, 30 microbeers and a full bar, a banquet room is available for private parties. Catering and many great events are also offered. Check the following webpage for business hours and event schedules.

Join us…Tues-Fri 3pm-11pm/ Sat 11am-12am/ Sun 11am-10pm. 3331 Roux Royale, St Charles 636-925-0941

217 S. Main Street, O’Fallon, MO 63366 www.rendezvouscafeandwinebar.com

mcGurk’s Public house McGurk’s Public House is located in a 150 year old building on Historic Main Street in downtown O’Fallon, MO. McGurk’s features three beautiful hand carved walnut bars and an outdoor patio with ample seating for all ages. McGurk’s also has rooms and spaces available for private events, making it the perfect place to hold any family, business, or social gathering. Be sure to stop in and check out an extensive menu offering Irish favorites as well as other tasty specials. 108 South Main Street, O Fallon, MO 63366 www.mcgurkspublichouse.com

TurTle creek pub & Grill TURTLE CREEK Pub & Grill is one of O’Fallon, Missouri’s hidden treasures, offering great food and entertainment. With a menu for everyone from pasta and seafood to steaks and wings. This winner of seven 2015 PostDispatch “Best of St Charles” Awards, will leave you wanting more! Bring this page in to receive 15% off your ‘Dine in’ check! 128 Triad Center West, O’Fallon, MO 63366 636-294-3458 Inspired Local Food Culture

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kind of a big dill

Pickling and fermenting is cool as a cucumber these days. Take notes on recipes and best practices from a new cookbook on p. 46. photography courtesy The quick Pickle cookbook By grace parisi

nhb knifeworks

shop here

stl

written by Sarah KloePPle PhotograPhy by jacKlyn Meyer

maplewood, mo. beautiful and cutting-edge

knives are the house specialty at NHB Knifeworks, which moved to a new, retail-friendly space in Maplewood, Missouri, in july. nate bonner founded the artisan cutlery business in 2012 and opened its original shop on beck avenue in tower grove South in 2013. his handmade knives quickly earned acclaim for their unique, striking handles and pattern-welded steel blades; cardinals manager Mike Matheny even commissioned one. in the new space, bonner says the family-owned shop is working to expand its inventory to include more task-specific knives, whether it’s one that can fillet a trout or a utilitarian knife for everyday use. the overall goal, bonner says, is to use as many local supplies as possible, which means local dye, steel from old tractors and wood from trees that have fallen nearby. “it’s going to be nice to have control over everything, every step of the way,” he says. the element of control is also facilitated by the size of the new shop. it’s smaller than the original, but bonner prefers it that way. it includes areas designated for retail, demonstrations and a window to watch the knives at various stages of production and to see bonner at work. his most popular products include chefs’ knives and custom pattern-welded steel knives; nhb also sells kitchen goods, cookware, serveware and arkansas-mined whetstones for sharpening. “i feel like [sharpening] is something people should be educated on,” bonner says. “it’s a cool, repetitive motion where your brain can trail off and work things out – i like showing people that. one of the few relaxing times when i was a professional chef was [during] knife sharpening.” NHB Knifeworks, 7328 Manchester Road, Maplewood, Missouri, 314.776.3800, nhbknifeworks.com

mortier pilon fermentation crock

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written by nancy StileS

Fermentation is a centuries-old technique, but Mortier Pilon’s sleek fermentation crocks are modern enough to display on your kitchen counter. the 2-liter crocks are a third of the weight of more traditional stoneware crocks but just as effective. Make your own kombucha, kimchi, pickles, sauerkraut and more with the help of the included recipe booklet and reusable label.

Professional bakers use lames (pronounced lehm) to score the top of bread dough, allowing it to rise without damaging the crust. the inexpensive tool is a must-have for at-home bread baking, too. breadtopia’s version comes with five easy-to-change blades (as sharpness is key) and a cheeky baguette-shaped handle that’s easy to grip even while wearing bulky oven mitts.

For more information or to purchase the fermentation crock, visit mortierpilon.com.

For more information or to purchase the lame, visit breadtopia.com.

PhotograPhy courteSy Mortier Pilon

PhotograPhy courteSy breadtoPia

written by nancy StileS

breadtopia bread lame

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COME IN AND TRY OUR NEW COCKTAILS Painkiller; A Strong drink, Ginger Black Rum, Coconut milk, OJ, Pineapple, Fresh lime. Grape Crush; Grape Vodka, Blue Curacao, Peach Schnapps, Cranberry, Sprite. Blood and Sand; Cutty Shark Whisky, OJ, Grenadine. $3 Appetizers During Happy Hours From 4pm - 6 pm. 3155 South Grand | St. Louis, MO. 63118 | 314.771.1777 | www.kingandistl.com

TRY US FOR YOUR SPECIAL OCCASION! Chi Mangia Bene Vive Bene! “To Eat Well is to Live Well” Proudly Serving Authentic Italian Food in a Family Atmosphere. Birthday, Graduation, Retirement, Corporate Parties! Let Us Cater Your Special Occasion Try Our Party Pans For A Delicious Meal For Any Size Group Featuring Daily Lunch & Dinner Specials Reservations Recommended, Hours of Operation: Tuesday - Saturday 11am-10pm • Sunday Noon-9pm • Closed Monday

5442 Old Hwy 21• Imperial • 636.942.2405 • trattoria-giuseppe.com

JOIN US FOR SUNDAY BRUNCH OR DINNER! Enjoy Our Award Winning Breakfast Menu With Our Delicious Boozy Breakfast Cocktails & Chef Mehmet's Whole Roasted Lamb. Lunch: Tues-Fri :: Dinner: Tues-Sun :: Sunday Brunch Wine Flights: Tues-Wed :: Happy Hour: Tues-Fri Available for Private Parties and Catering

Turkish Mediterranean Cuisine. Known for our Meze (Small Plates), Lamb Dishes, Fresh Fish and Excellent Wine Selection.

6671 Chippewa Street • St. Louis • 314.645.9919 • ayasofiacuisine.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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The Quick Pickle cookbook

n eo o

Written By BethAny chriSto

q&A

chris matsch co-owner, ibis bakery and fervere Written By April Fleming

photogrAphy By zAch BAumAn

LeneXA, KS. Since their modest beginnings serving toast and loaves of bread out of Black Dog coffeehouse in lenexa, Kansas, chris and Kate matsch, owners of Ibis Bakery, have seen ibis’ influence expand citywide. early last year, the matschs purchased the much-loved Westside bakery Fervere after its founder, Fred Spompinato, retired. the programs at both bakeries remained distinct. then, in February of this year, Fervere’s oven broke down, so its production moved to ibis. the stress of baking for two shops in one kitchen – as well as the departure of both of Fervere’s senior bakers – caused the matschs to reevaluate their workload and temporarily combine the bakeries’ menus. chris is now perfecting the process of using Fervere’s oven, and production should be up and running out of its original location this month. if this weren’t enough, they plan to open a third bakery Downtown next year, which will also include a mill.

What attracted you to making bread? i like that it restarts every day. there are all of these little touch points that can send the bread in one direction or another. Because of the way our dough works – higher hydration and sourdough – it’s kind of wild. you are just trying to direct it. i like using my hands a lot. it’s a way for me to be able to express myself creatively, every single day. How are you working to keep the Ibis and Fervere identities distinct? one of the key factors is [Fervere’s] oven. it just bakes really differently. the oven at Fervere bakes off of stored heat – there are just tons of ceramic mass. ours at ibis stores some heat, but it also has burners. the air circulates a bit differently. the ibis oven has steam that you can inject; 46

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you have to put steam into Fervere’s with a sprayer. you get different crusts and different textures. the oven at Fervere just has such deep heat penetrating the bread, so the process is completely different. What are the differences in operating Ibis and Fervere? At ibis, we’ll start at 3:45am and it will rest for the entire next day. We’ll cook it the next morning, so [it takes] close to 30 hours. Fervere had a shorter process where its bread wouldn’t chill overnight – the baker there would bake through the night and sell the bread the next morning. texturally they come out very differently because the gluten in the bread breaks down as the dough rests. generally you get a more open-crumb texture [the longer that the dough rests]. your starches convert into sugar more, and the fermentation that happens in the cold environment gives it a different flavor profile. there are merits and values to both processes. What will the mill entail? We’re hoping to source local grains from area farms. you can make from superfine to more coarse flour – you have a lot of flexibility. there is also a sifting process in which you can sift out the bran or germ to whatever percentage you want, which can also really affect the way the bread acts. i’m anticipating it being intuitive, like baking – it’s one of the things about our process that i really like. ideally we’d like to work with organic wheat and rye; we have a little mill now at ibis to mill corn for heirloom polenta, and i’m hoping to incorporate more variety into this process, as well. We do hope with the new space to create something unique that is distinct from both Fervere and ibis. Ibis Bakery, 12817 W. 87th St. Parkway, Lenexa, Kansas, 913.669.9883, ibisbakery.com

the age-old tradition of pickling gets a modern makeover in The Quick Pickle Cookbook by grace parisi, a James Beard award-nominated cookbook author and former Food & Wine editor. From basic “Killer Dillers” to pickled sweet beets with pearl onions, honey-star anise pickled apricots or lime-chile pickled pineapple, parisi uses fancy ferments as foundations for both pickled veggie and fruit recipes, including hearty russian beef-barley soup, pickled apricot-barbecue glaze for ribs and a pineapple-Aperol spritz. make a mix of pickles with giardiera (italian-spiced pickled peppers, carrots, celery and cauliflower) or make a shrimp stir-fry with ginger-pickled snap peas. lunch, dinner, drinks and dessert – after paging through this book, you’ll never again find yourself in a pickle. By Grace Parisi quartoknows.com

Promotion

andria’s Countryside

1818 Chophouse Join 1818 Chophouse for an exciting SAVOR restaurant week menu, offering brown sugar-brined fried chicken, porterhouse pork chops and a bourbon-glazed prime rib sandwich, to name a few. Open at 11am Tuesday to Saturday and serving Sunday brunch 9am to 2pm, 1818 Chophouse is Edwardsville’s finest restaurant for steaks and seafood!

Andria’s Countryside has provided a memorable dining experience to the St. Louis area since 1989. They are the first restaurant nationwide licensed to offer USDA Prime Certified Angus Beef. Since 2011, they have proudly served Niman Ranch Certified Angus Beef USDA Prime Natural exclusively – every steak, every time. Head out for SAVOR restaurant week and experience the extraordinary food and attentive service for a memorable dining experience.

210 S. Buchanan St., Edwardsville, IL 62025 618.307.9300, 1818chophouse.com

7415 IL-143, Edwardsville, IL 62025 618.656.0281, andriascountryside.com

annie’s frozen Custard Annie’s Frozen Custard is offering buy one, get one on awesome dogs combos during SAVOR restaurant week! Choose any hot dog combo and enjoy a second combo (of equal or lesser value) free. Dogs include: chili, Chicago, Dachshund, Cheese Hound, Pooch or call your own from many topping options. Combos include chips and a drink. 245 S. Buchanan St., Edwardsville, IL 62025 618.656.0289; 11 Illini Drive, Glen Carbon, IL 62034 618.692.0400; anniesfrozencustard.com

Bella Milano Bella Milano continues to challenge the status quo in the dining experience. Enjoy SAVOR restaurant week specials: For lunch, choose from Chicken Milano, Fish Tacos or Pasta Three Way, plus a soup or salad, for only $10. At dinner, enjoy Lobster Fettuccini, Gouda Strip Steak or Stuffed Red Snapper, with soup or salad and dessert, for $25! 1063 S. State Route 157, Edwardsville, IL 62025 618.659.2100, bellamilanos.com

Cleveland-heath

Catrinas

Find fun food, happy people and great drinks at Cleveland-Heath! During SAVOR restaurant week, choose from gourmet-comfort lunch offerings and dinner entrées.

Spice up SAVOR restaurant week at Catrinas! Enjoy lunch and dinner offers of Fresh, Street-Style Latin Cuisine with more than 18 different tacos from standards like Anaheim Shrimp, Carne Asada and Al Pastor to more inventive offerings!

Happy hour is Monday to Friday 2:30 to 5:30pm, with live music on the patio every Thursday night from 6 to 9pm.

1027 Century Drive, Edwardsville, IL 62025 618.692.5522, facebook.com/catrinaslatincuisine

doC’s sMokehouse Celebrate SAVOR restaurant week at Doc’s Smokehouse & Catering! Enjoy specialties like select St. Louis-style ribs, tender sliced brisket, savory burnt ends or the ever-popular 28-ounce pork steak (so tender you can cut it with a plastic spoon). Don’t forget to also enjoy made-from-scratch sides and desserts! 1017 Century Drive, Edwardsville, IL 62025 618.656.6060, docssmokehouse.com

106 N. Main St., Edwardsville, IL 62025 618.307.4830, clevelandheath.com

sugo’s spaghetteria Sugo’s Spaghetteria is offering a $9 lunch, where you can choose any half pasta and salad or any half pizza and salad from the menu. The $25 three-course meal offers a choice of three menu courses – Beef Spedini , Pasta Diablo or Chicken Scallopini – plus a Del Pietro or Caesar salad and Housemade Tiramisu. 243 Harvard Drive, Edwardsville, IL 62025 618.659.4640, sugoscucina.com

photography CoUrtesy happy Food Co.

happy food co.

written by Jenny Vergara

OLATHE, KS. subscription-based boxed meal kits are all

the rage, but it can be hard to find one with locally grown, farm-raised ingredients. Local entrepreneur Jeff glasco founded Happy Food Co. late last year in olathe, kansas, for precisely this reason, along with chef kiersten Firquain, who sources her ingredients from local farmers to create its delicious meals. each kit comes with prechopped and prepared ingredients, and the meals can

all be made in fewer than 30 minutes. happy Food Co.’s menu rotates seasonally, and there are always around a dozen meals available, like a soba noodle bowl with hot sesame chicken, fish tacos with black bean-mango salsa, shrimp kebobs with parmesan polenta, a bison-cheeseburger quesadilla with apple guacamole or butter-basted salmon with citrus salsa. simple cooking instructions are provided with each kit

(as well as more detailed steps and photos and nutrition information on its website), and you can purchase them in two- or four-person servings. the meals cost $7.50 to $9 per serving, available at hen house Markets in olathe and the surrounding area, and the company offers a workplace-delivery option to businesses. Happy Food Co., 855.258.7875, gethappyfood.com

artisan products date lady pure date syrup written by bethany Christo

SPRINGFIELD, MO. we might all know the

muffin man, but what about the Date Lady? her name is Colleen sundlie, and in springfield, Missouri, she creates organic syrup, chocolate spread and caramel sauce from dates, which she first encountered as a syrup 10 years ago living in the United arab emirates. in May, her pure date syrup was recognized by the specialty Food association as one of three finalists in the dessert sauces, toppings and syrup category of its prestigious sofi awards. the syrup’s complex and naturally sweet flavor is a perfect alternative to processed sugar, honey, molasses and maple syrup. all of her date-based products – which also include balsamic vinegar, date sugar and melt-in-your-mouth whole dates – are gluten-free, dairy-free, vegan and kosher. Date Lady, 417.414.2282, ilovedatelady.com photography CoUrtesy brad dixon

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pimped out pickles written by bethany Christo

ST. LOUIS. take your pick(le) from a slew of

eclectic flavor options at Pimped Out Pickles in the greater Ville neighborhood in st. Louis. all pickles have a signature flavor and name – think haterade, Flava Flav and pimp Juice – and the menu offers pickles to please the entire palate, from the spicy hot sweet garlic to a list of sweet Jolly rancher flavors (watermelon, blue raspberry, grape). owner Michelle Latchison and her two sons, Finess and bart, opened the brick-and-mortar store in 2014 after years of pickling for family and friends, and there’s sure to be one we bet you’ll like – perhaps the bet-U-Like made with Mike & ike’s candy? Pimped Out Pickles, 3109 N. Vandeventer Ave., The Greater Ville, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.401.1807, facebook.com/Pimped-Out-Pickles-1602753713283167 photography by JaCkLyn Meyer

ctOber 8th & 9th 3:00 P.M. tO 6:00 P.M. $35 TASTER’S TICKETS beer and food samples commemorative tasting glass

20-minute trolley tour

$60 BARON’S TICKETS beer and food samples

commemorative tasting glass 35-minute bus & tomb tour t-shirt and pint glass included

A refreshing AfternOOn Of

beer histOry fOOd BELLEFONTAINE CEMETERY AND ARBORETUM 4947 W. FLORISSANT AVE. • ST. LOUIS, MO 63115

tickets available online http://bellefontainecemetery.org/events/

or by phone: (314) 381-0750

thank you to our event partners

St. Louis Post-dispatch • Urban Chestnut • Earthbound Trailhead • Square One • PW Pizza • Three Kings

RestauRant

Neighbor Awards

Three St. Louis area restaurants recently received word they have been selected to receive the prestigious Restaurant Neighbor Award from the National Restaurant Association. The award recognizes a select group of America’s restaurants that go above and beyond the call of duty in service to their local community.

congratulations to:

Sippin 4

1 1 .3 .1 6

Anheuser-Busch Biergarten 1200 Lynch Street - St. Louis

5-9pm

INCLUDES: OPEN BAR FEATURING OVER 30 ANHEUSER-BUSCH PRODUCTS, APPETIZERS,LIQUOR RAFFLE, SILENT AUCTION, AND SUNNYHILL GRAND PRIX HOT WHEEL RACE.

Est. 1978

per ticket

Sunnyhill

Eat • Drink • Make a Difference

atience, kindness and a genuine love for people are just some of the valuable qualities found in the staff at Sunnyhill.

Through programs such as Sunnyhill University, individuals with developmental disabilities are able to learn valuable life skills such as cooking and nutrition, cleaning and hygiene along with finance, employment and safety. With assistance from Sunnyhill staff, individuals receive help inside their natural home as well as enjoy outings within their communities to allow them the chance to expand their social skills. The goal of Sunnyhill University is to empower people to be the amazing individuals they are and promote independence so that they are able to be productive citizens. "No

or dictionary out there, is capable of clearly

defining who we are as a ��rs��." ~Robert M Hensel

Since it’s inception in 1978, Sunnyhill has expanded its education and recreation programs to serve over 750 each year in addition to offering residential services for close to 400 individuals in their natural home or a Sunnyhill property. Assistance can be as little as a few hours each week up to 24-hours/day based upon the need of the individual. Our goal is to seek independence, empowerment and a life to the fullest for people of all abilities. We meet individuals where they’re at and help them to become who they want to be.

• Read their stories at http://www.morestaurants.org/industry-awards/restaurant-neighbor

Know of a restaurant that exemplifies the utmost in community service? Begin the nomination process via email to bbonney@morestaurants.org.

Sunnyhill

•

Sippin for Sunnyhill is a social event to raise funds for Sunnyhill, a non-profit organization working hard every day to create opportunities for individuals with developmental disabilities. Contact Amy at amoore@sunnyhillinc.org for tickets & sponsorships.

| Inspired Local Food Culture

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Lou Fusz Subaru

is the key to exceptional service. • Exceptional Customer Service • Huge Selection and Savings • Proud Supporter of the Humane Society of Missouri

Lou Fusz Subaru St. Peters

Lou Fusz Subaru Creve Coeur

4440 N. Service Road St. Peters, MO 63376 FuszSubaru.com 636-397-2012

10329 Old Olive Street St. Louis, MO 63141 Subaru.Fusz.com 314-994-1500

Visit our new & expanded location to best serve our customers! Inspired Local Food Culture

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Take your appliances for a visual test-drive. See every Sub-Zero and Wolf product in its natural environment at The Living Kitchen. Jump-start your plans for a new kitchen. Get hands-on with the complete line of Sub-Zero and Wolf products as you move from one full-scale kitchen vignette to the next. Once youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been inspired by all that your new kitchen can be, our specialists will help you turn your dreams into a reality.

11610 Page Service Drive St. Louis, MO 63146 314-373-2000

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1694 Larkin Williams Road Fenton, MO 63026 636-349-4946

Additional Location: 1660 Bryan Road | Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Fallon, MO 63368 | 636-244-3844

getting figgy with it

Snack on fig and Roquefort shortbread sablĂŠs on p. 58. photography by jennifer silverberg

healthy appetite

STORy, ReCIPe AND PhOTOgRAPhy by SheRRIe CASTellAnO

Grilled Summer SquaSh and halloumi TacoS SeRVeS | 4 |

2 lbs summer squash olive oil sea salt 8 oz halloumi cheese 8 corn tortillas (hard or soft) ¼ cup minced onion ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro salsa or fermented hot sauce (turn to p. 68 for a homemade version), to taste

| preparation | Wash, dry and cut summer squash into ½-inch-thick slices. brush with olive oil, sprinkle with a pinch of sea salt and set aside. Cut halloumi cheese into ½-inch-thick slices, brush with olive oil and set aside. Over a medium-flamed grill, spread out squash slices evenly and grill on each side, about 2 to 3 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from grill and cover to keep warm. Spread out halloumi slices evenly over grill and cook on each side, about 45 seconds or until dark-golden brown. Remove from grill and dice into small cubes. Dice squash into medium cubes or thin strips. Fill each tortilla with equal parts squash and cheese, a sprinkle of onion and cilantro, and your preferred hot sauce or salsa. Serve.

%PG

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Grilled Summer SquaSh and halloumi TacoS I love when the end of one season collides with the beginning of another. September is a supreme celebration of that transition, when lingering summer produce meets the ﬁrst flashes of the harvest season. My garden is still producing tons of summer squash, and at times it can be a bit overwhelming to ﬁnd new and creative ways to prepare it. There are many reasons I adore summer squash, but a main one is because it comes in an array of beautiful colors and shapes and subtle changes in flavor. Dark green zucchini, the most common, is soft, mild and extremely versatile. My favorite, yellow zucchini, comes in a deep golden hue and is a tad sweeter. Striped Costata Romanesco is pale with darker ridges, while yellow squash comes with either a straight or crooked neck and is rich and somewhat buttery. Pattypans are

like little discs that cook quickly and have a nice crunch. And probably the most fun of all is the eight-ball zucchini, as it’s small, round and fun to cut in perfectly circular slices or stuff. Summer squash is loaded with vitamin C, potassium, magnesium and fiber, and although I certainly eat it for all of its health benefits, I don’t believe it’s ever tasted as good as it does with halloumi cheese. If you’re new to halloumi, it’s a semihard, unripened, brined cheese made from a mixture of goat’s and sheep’s milk. It’s known for its high melting point – making it a perfect cheese to grill – and its chewy texture. On warm summer nights, one of my favorite meals is grilled squash and salty halloumi cheese wrapped in tortillas with some fermented hot sauce or salsa for an extra kick.

Sherrie Castellano is a health coach, photographer and private chef based in St. Louis. She writes and photographs the seasonally inspired vegetarian and gluten-free blog With Food + Love. She has contributed work to Driftless Magazine, Vegetarian Times, go gluten-Free Magazine, Food52 and Urban Outfitters, among others. You can find her hanging with her aviation-enthusiast husband, sipping Earl Grey tea, green juice and/or bourbon.

one th d e v ’ e We

Homework for you

Meaningful Specialty Foods from Small Producers Thoughtfully Curated 7310 Manchester Road • Maplewood, MO 63143 314.300.8995 • www.LarderAndCupboard.com

No aRtIficiAL colorS, fLavorS, SWeeTeNErs or pREseRvaTivEs CenTRAL WeSt End 4577 W. PINE BLVD.

ToWN & CouNtry

1160 TOWN & COUNTRY CROSSING

GALLErIA

1601 S. BRENTWOOD BLVD.

WFM.COM

$55 per person, $100 per couple. ouple.

Reservations required. Tax & gratuity nott include included.

edgewildbistro.com | 314.548.2222 O 63141 12316 Olive Blvd. | Creve Coeur, MO

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Inspired Local Food Culture

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mystery shopper

Meet: Mango Pickle story and recipe by shannon weber photography by jennifer silverberg

Get yourself into this pickle. What Is It?

Mango Pickle-Roasted BRussels sPRouts There are myriad recipes for mango pickle out there; if you’re feeling adventurous, pick up some green mangos and have a go. The jarred variety is perfectly acceptable, especially when you’re using it as a marinade; look for a high-quality brand like Patak’s or talk to your international grocer about which to use. serves | 8 |

lbs Brussels sprouts, stems removed, halved (larger ones quartered) ²⁄₃ cup roughly chopped mango pickle 3 Tbsp olive oil, divided 3 Tbsp finely diced shallot 2 tsp firmly packed brown sugar 2 tsp ground cumin 1½ tsp ground coriander ½ tsp chile flake sea salt and freshly ground black pepper ²⁄₃ cup golden raisins ½ cup roughly chopped skinned and toasted hazelnuts ½ cup roughly chopped fresh parsley leaves

| preparation | preheat oven to 400°f. in a large bowl, add brussels sprouts and set aside. in a small bowl, combine mango pickle, 2 tablespoons olive oil, shallot, brown sugar, cumin, coriander and chile flake; stir to incorporate. add mango pickle mixture to brussels sprouts; toss until thoroughly coated. spread out on lipped baking sheet pan in a single layer, keeping mixture clustered together, and season generously with salt and pepper. roast, 30 to 40 minutes, until sprouts are nicely singed, tossing once halfway through. when sprouts have almost finished, heat remaining tablespoon olive oil in a small pan over medium heat. add raisins, stirring to coat, and cook until plumped and heated through, shaking pan occasionally. remove sprouts from oven and transfer to a large serving bowl.

| to serve | toss brussels sprouts with raisins, half of hazelnuts and half of parsley until incorporated; check seasoning and add more salt and pepper if desired. garnish with remaining hazelnuts and parsley. serve immediately.

Mango pickle is a widely popular variety of vegetable “pickles” used as condiments in South Asia. It’s made with an age-old process involving oil and spice, which allows the fruit to retain its snap. It begins not with the sweet, sunset-orange mangos you can find at the grocery store but with the tart green mangos found tucked away in Asian or Latin markets during the summer and early fall. The fruit is slathered in vibrant spices – chile powder, fenugreek, fennel and turmeric, among others – and soaked in mustard and sesame and rapeseed oils for days until ready to serve or preserve.

What Do I Do WIth It?

Although mango pickle might seem exotic to us, it’s a lunchbox staple all over Southern Asia, dished out alongside paratha, a type of Indian flatbread. Use it as a condiment with fish or chicken, or serve it over grains like couscous or rice. If a not-sad desk lunch is what you’re after, look no further: Toss mango pickle with fresh herbs, chickpeas and chopped vegetables, and you’re ready to party. If mango pickle seems intimidating, try using it as a marinade by blending it and adding it to meats or vegetables; cooking mellows the flavor slightly and gives your finished dish a twang that’s hard to find anywhere else.

Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com, and her work has appeared on websites such as Bon Appétit, Serious Eats and America’s Test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and in life.

For the third consecutive year

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menu options

RoquefoRt and fig SabléS story and recipe by Gabrielle deMichele photoGraphy by jennifer silverberG

RoquefoRt and fig SabléS yields | 48 sablés |

lb unsalted butter, very cold, cut into small cubes ½ lb crumbled Roquefort cheese 1 tsp sugar ¼ tsp salt ½ to ¾ tsp ancho chile powder ₁⁄₈ tsp freshly ground black pepper ₁⁄₈ tsp cayenne pepper 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling 1 Tbsp heavy cream ¼ cup fig jam

| preparation | in the bowl of a food processor, add butter, cheese, sugar, salt, chile powder, black pepper and cayenne pepper. pulse 6 to 8 times to combine ingredients into curds; do not overprocess. add flour and pulse another 6 to 9 times until small lumps form, adding cream as you pulse and stopping as soon as dough comes together. turn dough out on a lightly floured board or silpat and gently knead until it comes together. Work into 2 rolls about 1¼ inch in diameter, wrap in wax paper, and refrigerate for 2 hours or up to 3 days. line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. preheat oven to 350°f. remove roll from refrigerator and cut into rounds about ¼-inch thick. arrange on prepared baking sheet, leaving an inch between rounds. Using tip of your pinky finger or end of a dowel rod or wooden spoon, make a depression in the center and fill with ¼ teaspoon fig jam. repeat with all rounds. transfer baking sheet to oven and bake, 16 to 19 minutes or until sablés are golden brown and firm to the touch. remove sablés to a wire rack to cool before serving.

A sablé (also known as a sablée) is a delicate, crumby French shortbread cookie made with butter and flour. Sablés are often flavored with citrus zest or almonds, but in the following recipe I’ve added a dash of heat with ancho chile powder and cayenne pepper; subtle sweetness via fig jam; and saltiness and funk from Roquefort, a pungent, semisoft to hard French

cheese made with ewe’s milk. Whether served as decadent starters, snacks or sweets, sablés are incredibly easy to make – the dough is rolled into a cylinder shape and then sliced – and flavor combinations are endless. Whip up a batch for your next get together, or simply indulge in a few before dinner with a glass of wine.

chef’s tips ReaDY, set, DouGH. Overworking the dough will create tough sablés instead of crisp ones that melt in your mouth. Work the dough as little as possible and be sure it chills in the refrigerator for the full amount of time. The chill time helps the gluten in the flour relax and almost guarantees that your sablés with have the perfect texture.

a cut above. Cutting the dough with unwaxed dental floss or a cheese wire will help the roll keep its round shape. Jammin’. Feel free to experiment by using different jams in this recipe, like tart cherry or damson plum. Sablés can also be topped with slices of peaches, nectarines or apples.

the menu • Garden Salad with Sweet Onion-Balsamic Vinaigrette • Roquefort and Fig sablés • Brown Sugar-Glazed Pork Loin with Mostarda • Baked Pumpkin and Gorgonzola • Baked Apples with Cinnamon Whipped Cream

leaRn moRe. Embrace the flavors of fall by making a garden-fresh salad tossed with sweet onion-balsamic vinaigrette, plus baked pumpkin and Gorgonzola. In this class you’ll also learn how to make a sweet brown sugar glaze perfect for pork loin. Fig and Roquefort sablés will be served as starters, plus baked apples with fresh cinnamon-whipped cream for dessert.

get hands-on: Join Feast Magazine and schnucks Cooks Cooking school on Wed., sep. 28 at 6pm at the des Peres, Missouri, location, to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at schnuckscooks.com or call 314.909.1704.

WATCH IT ON THESE NETWORKS

In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Saturdays and Sundays at 6:30pm.

In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Sundays at 5:30pm.

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Thursdays at 8pm and Saturdays at 4:30pm.

Feast TV will air in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) every Monday at 12:30pm.

Check your local listings to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:

It’s slow-cooker season! Everyone loves a home-cooked meal and this spaghetti is easy and kid friendly. You’ll find this recipe in Simply Schnucks Fall magazine – pick it up in-store or look online at simplyschnucks.com. Mangia!

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sweet ideas

toasted Banana Pud’n STORy AND ReCIPe By ChRISTy AuguSTIN PhOTOgRAPhy By CheRyL WALLeR

toasted Banana Pud’n SeRveS | 10 to 12 | Banana pud’n

2 1 1 ¼ 6 6 ¼ 1½ ¼ 1 3 to 4

unpeeled bananas quart whole milk cup granulated sugar, divided tsp kosher salt Tbsp cornstarch egg yolks (reserve 3 whites) cup cubed unsalted butter tsp vanilla extract cup banana liqueur (optional) package gingersnaps bananas, peeled and thinly sliced

Meringue

3 egg whites (from above) ½ cup plus 2 Tbsp granulated sugar

| preparation – banana pud’n | Preheat oven to 350°F. Pierce bananas’ skin several times with a knife and place on a parchment paper-lined sheet tray. Transfer to oven and bake 15 to 20 minutes, until skins turn black and juices are boiling out of bananas. Once cool enough to handle, peel bananas and add to food processor or blender; purée until smooth and set aside. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, heat milk, ¾ cup sugar and salt until nearly boiling, then turn off heat. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together remaining sugar, cornstarch, egg yolks and banana purée. Ladle enough hot milk mixture into yolk mixture to bring up temperature of yolks, whisking constantly. Add warm yolk mixture into pan with remaining hot milk. Whisk well to combine, return to medium heat and cook until pudding reaches a gentle boil. Stir constantly to avoid lumps. Whisk again if pudding gets too thick. To cook out starch flavor and fully thicken pudding, you must boil it, while stirring, for 1 full minute. Remove pudding from heat and add butter, vanilla extract and liqueur. Pour pudding into a large heatproof bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let cool for 1 hour at room temperature. In the bottom of a footed parfait dish, place a layer of gingersnaps. Top with banana slices. Spoon pudding on top and repeat layering until an inch remains on top. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate 4 hours or overnight.

| preparation – meringue | using a stand mixer, whisk whites until foamy. gradually pour in sugar, while whipping, and continue until medium-stiff peaks form. Spoon meringue over pudding and use a blowtorch to toast. Serve.

Bananas have long been a part of food culture in New Orleans: One of the first major imports to come through the Crescent City – and up the Mississippi River – were bananas from Latin America at the turn of the century. They quickly became a staple for American home cooks, baked into cream pies and quick breads. This banana pudding recipe comes from a dear friend’s restaurant, Dante’s Kitchen, located right on the Mississippi River in New Orleans. I first tried the dessert topped with meringue while working at The Ritz-Carlton, New Orleans, which was taught to me by none other than Simone Faure, now pastry chef and co-owner of La Patisserie Chouquette in St. Louis.

Meringue elevates banana pudding to an almost pie status, and you won’t be disappointed by the extra effort. In this recipe, a little trick is to roast the bananas first, which concentrates their flavor and caramelizes some of their natural sugars. The roasted bananas are then used to flavor the pastry cream (a fancy term for pudding). Store-bought cookies work well in this recipe, but obviously your favorite homemade cookie would be wonderful. Just be sure to bake them thoroughly, as chewy cookies will become too mushy after sitting in the pudding.

Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. Learn more at pintsizebakery.com.

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PROMOTION

A personAl recipe

for your individuAl heAlth chAllenges Dr. Bryan Deloney D.C., PSc.D., Chesterfield, is bringing one of the newest advancements in natural health and healing to local residents. Deloney is helping patients reverse health challenges, such as excess weight, diabetes, sleep apnea, thyroid disorders fibromyalgia and autoimmune issues, using the NutriMost proprietary technology. everyone gains Weight differently due to hormones nutriMost proprietary technology can target your hormone imbalances and get to the cause of your weight gain, overcoming weight loss resistance and solving your weight challenges. First, patients undergo a fast, painless scan of their body’s cells by using the NutriMost proprietary technology. This allows Dr. Deloney to take a “hormonal fingerprint” of every factor that affects weight gain, including fat burning, fat storage, metabolism, the organs involved, hormones, neurotransmitters, vitamins, minerals, metals, toxins, bacteria, viruses, mycoplasma, candida, parasites and nanobacteria. It gives him the capability of measuring and assisting the body’s innate healing abilities. NutriMost proprietary technology is so advanced and specific it can determine hormone imbalances, organ function weakness, and much more.

Deloney explains, “we determine your personal recipe for healthy weight and healing using resonant frequencies”. Using an understanding of resonant frequencies, Dr. Deloney can determine precisely what the body needs to bring it into its optimal fat burning zone and keep it there. This is done by measuring the baseline of each factor being measured (hormone, neurotransmitter, heavy metal, bacteria, virus, organ, etc.), and then the doctor can determine what supplement or formula is needed by observing what the effect of that item is on the baseline (whether it makes it more coherent or less coherent). The program displays the results and identifies the biomarkers (vitamins, minerals, hormones, neurotransmitters, toxins, microbes, etc.) that are out of range regarding the fat burning zone. Once the out-of-range fat biomarkers are identified, the program will determine exactly what is needed to bring the biomarkers back into fat burning. It will identify what is needed nutritionally; but more than that, the foundation of the whole program is the ability to determine the exact “recipe” for each person’s fat burning. The program creates a “recipe” for hormones/neurotransmitters, a “recipe” for detox and a “recipe” for the fat burning formula.

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| 66 |

destination: fermentation

| 81 |

highly cultured

| 88 |

yes they can

Fermented foods add depth, funk, sour and salt in all the best ways. Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re a fermentation expert or novice, these 12 easy and straightforward recipes are here to get you excited about microbes at mealtime. Twenty-four hours ago, cows were milked at Windcrest Dairy in Trenton, Illinois. Today, you can buy Greek-style and regular yogurt made with the same milk in stores across the St. Louis area. Kansas City Canning Co. makes award-winning pickles, preserves and shrubs with local flavor.

KanSaS CITy CannInG Co. pICKLeS (p. 88) phoToGraphy by anna peTroW

STory, recIpeS And phoTogrAphy By SherrIe cASTellAno

ong before we were popping probiotic pills and drinking kombucha on draft, people around the globe were fermenting foods. Fermentation can be traced back thousands of years with roots in nearly every culture. Before there were modern methods for cooling and storing food, people used microbes as a way to prevent fresh ingredients from spoiling. And for those of us who love to grow food in our backyard garden or hoard farmers’ market finds, fermentation is a great vehicle for preserving fruits and vegetables from the end of summer well into the winter months. There are some pretty powerful health benefits associated with eating fermented foods, as well. The most discussed is their high-probiotic bacteria content and how this plays a role in creating a healthy gut microbiome. It’s no coincidence that fermented foods have been at the forefront of the healthy-eating movement we’ve seen unfold across the country for the past decade. And for good reason: They’re also delicious. Fermented foods add depth and funk and sour and salt in all the best and unexpected ways. For some, it’s love at first bite, and for others, there might be a gentle warming-up process involved. But whether you’re a fermentation expert or novice, these 12 easy and straightforward recipes are here to get you excited about microbes at mealtime.

Stock up on 32-ounce and 12-ounce glass Mason jars before making these recipes at home. If you’re serious about building up an arsenal of kimchi and sauerkraut, pick up a fermentation crock at your local kitchen store. (Turn to p. 44 for one option.) You’ll also need fermentation weights, which can be purchased at most kitchen stores. Several of the following recipes instruct you to burp jars during the fermentation process. This simply means to slowly open and close the jars every so often to release a naturally occurring buildup of pressure.

The most important meal of the day just got a whole lot better with this punchy hot sauce that upgrades basic breakfast tostadas with deep and funky heat. YIELDS | 4 tostadas |

4 4 1 ¼ ¼ ¼

eggs soft corn tortillas tomato, diced cup chopped red onion cup chopped cilantro cup crumbled Feta (optional) garlicky fermented jalapeño hot sauce (recipe below)

| preparation | Preheat oven to 350°F. On the stove, fry eggs over-easy and set aside. Place corn tortillas on oven rack and toast until slightly crisp. Top each tortilla with a sunny-side up egg, some diced tomato, onion, cilantro, Feta (if using) and a generous drizzle of fermented hot sauce. Serve.

Fermented hot sauce is an easy way to reap the benefits of eating fermented foods because it practically prepares itself and can be added to almost any dish. This recipe, made with jalapeños and lots of garlic, is a spicy and earthy twist on the condiment-shelf staple. YIELDS | 2 cups |

4 10 1 2

cups halved jalapeños cloves garlic, skins removed, smashed slightly Tbsp kosher salt cups filtered water

| preparation | Fill a 32-ounce glass jar with jalapeños and garlic cloves. In a large bowl, dissolve salt in water. Pour just enough brine into jar with jalapeño and garlic to cover. Place a fermentation weight over top of mixture to weigh peppers down. Cover jar with a piece of cloth and secure with a rubber band. Allow mixture to ferment for 7 to 10 days. The brine will become cloudy; this is a normal part of the process. Once fermentation is complete, drain jalapeños and garlic and reserve brine. In a food processor, purée jalapeños and garlic until a smooth paste forms. Add 1 tablespoon brine at a time until hot sauce reaches desired consistency. Run purée through a fine-mesh strainer and store in a 12-ounce glass jar or bottle in refrigerator.

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A classic, summery chopped salad with a tangy and healthy twist courtesy of lacto-fermented late-summer vegetables. YIELDS | 4 side salads |

4 1 ½ 1 2 2 to 3

cups lacto-fermented late-summer vegetables (recipe below) cup basil leaves cup nonfat Greek yogurt Tbsp lemon juice Tbsp olive oil Tbsp milk sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

| preparation | Drain lacto-fermented vegetables into a bowl. Remove garlic and basil from jar and discard. In a food processor or high-speed blender, combine all remaining ingredients and blend until completely smooth. Pour ¼ cup dressing over vegetables in bowl and toss to combine. Serve cold. Refrigerate remaining dressing for up to 5 days to use on salads or as a dip.

You can pickle almost anything, but pickling late-summer vegetables is an especially practical way to preserve your backyard garden or farmers’ market hauls. Here, the vegetables will pickle in water and salt, as well as their own juices. (Lacto refers to lactobacillus bacteria, which converts the natural sugar in these veggies into lactic acid.) YIELDS | 4 cups |

1 2 ½ ½ ½ ½ ½ 1

Tbsp kosher salt cups warm water cup chopped zucchini cup chopped summer squash cup chopped bell peppers cup corn kernels cup red onion, medium dice clove garlic, smashed handful fresh basil filtered water

| preparation | In a glass bowl, dissolve salt in warm water and set aside. In a 12-ounce glass jar, combine zucchini, squash, peppers, corn, onion, garlic and basil. Fill jar with salted water brine, allowing at least 1 inch between waterline and top of jar. If vegetables won’t stay submerged, use a fermentation weight to hold them down. Seal jar with lid and allow to sit for 3 to 5 days, burping every so often. Refrigerate vegetables in brine after 5 days until ready to use.

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%PG

Sauerkraut is rooted in Eastern European and Germanic cultures, traditionally made by fermenting cabbage in a brine of salt and its own juices. It’s known for its pungent aroma and tangy, sour flavor. This recipe uses both red cabbage and beets to transform one of the more classic and popular fermented foods into something refreshing and vibrant. yIeLDs | 2 CuPS |

1½ 4 1

lbs red cabbage tsp kosher salt medium beet, grated

| preparation | In a large glass bowl, combine cabbage and salt. Using your hands, massage and mix for 5 minutes, breaking down cabbage and creating a brine. Add grated beet to bowl and mix thoroughly. Pack mixture into a

32-ounce glass jar with a lid. Brine should cover mixture by about 1 inch, leaving 2 inches of empty space at the top of jar. ensure vegetables are submerged under brine; you might need to use a fermentation weight to hold mixture down. seal jar with lid and set on a plate at room temperature for 7 to 10 days, burping every so often. sauerkraut can ferment for up to 21 days, but it can be consumed as early as day 5.

The addition of corn and quinoa to these patties adds color and crunch, while the sauerkraut brings tang to the party. Substitute burger buns for bread if preferred. serves | 6 | Corn and Quinoa PaTTiES (yields 6)

2 1 1 ¼ 1 ¼ ¼ ¼

cups cooked quinoa cup corn kernels cup thinly shredded and diced kale cup minced yellow onion egg cup all-purpose or gluten-free flour tsp sea salt tsp freshly ground black pepper

aSSEmbly

12 6 1 2 1

slices whole-grain bread, toasted Tbsp hummus cup thinly sliced cucumber avocados, sliced cup red beet sauerkraut (recipe above)

| preparation - corn and quinoa patties | Preheat oven to 450°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. In a large bowl, combine all ingredients and use hands to mix well. Divide mixture evenly into 6 patties and transfer to prepared baking sheet. Transfer to oven; bake for 5 minutes on each side or until golden brown. remove and allow to cool slightly before assembling.

| assembly | spread ½ tablespoon hummus onto all pieces of toasted bread and place patties on 6 slices. Top patties with cucumbers, avocado and sauerkraut and finish with remaining slices of bread. Cut sandwiches in half and serve warm.

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Kimchi is a traditional Korean side dish made of pickled vegetables. Typically made with cabbage, chiles, garlic, ginger, scallions and sometimes cucumber, this recipe uses zucchini for a fresh spin on kimchi, perfect as a side, snack or layered onto a sandwich or grain bowl. YIelDs | 4 cups |

2 1 3 1 1 2 2 1 ½

medium green zucchini tsp kosher salt cloves garlic, minced bunch green onions, small dice 1-inch knob ginger, grated Tbsp rice vinegar Tbsp gochujang tsp granulated sugar tsp fish sauce

| preparation | slice zucchini in half lengthwise and then into thin half-moons. Place zucchini in a glass bowl and sprinkle with salt; allow to

sit for 30 minutes. In a small bowl, combine remaining ingredients and set aside. After 30 minutes, squeeze moisture out of zucchini and discard all liquid from bowl. Toss zucchini into prepared mixture, using your hands to massage and combine vegetables. Place kimchi in a 32-ounce glass jar, cover and refrigerate for 12 hours. After 12 hours, kimchi is ready to serve. It can also be stored for up to 1 week in refrigerator.

Grain bowls seem to be popping up everywhere these days. They’re easy to throw together, and you barely need to follow a recipe to do so. serves | 6 to 8 |

2 2 4 1 2 1 1

cups cooked brown or white rice cups green zucchini kimchi (recipe above) ears grilled corn, kernels removed and reserved cup shelled edamame Tbsp olive oil Tbsp rice vinegar Tbsp soy sauce or tamari sea salt and freshly ground black pepper chopped green onions (for garnish)

| preparation | Divide rice equally among 4 bowls. Top each with ½ cup kimchi and set aside. In a small mixing bowl, combine corn, edamame, olive oil, rice vinegar, soy sauce or tamari, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Mix together and divide equally among bowls. Garnish with green onions and season with black pepper. serve.

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Drinking vinegars, more popularly known as shrubs, were originally made thousands of years ago to serve medicinal and water-purifying purposes. They have come back into focus in the past few years as more bartenders add them to cocktails and people experiment with making them at home. What I like best about shrubs is that they can be enjoyed with or without alcohol. yields | 1 cup |

2 1 1

cups pitted and destemmed cherries cup cane sugar cup apple cider vinegar

| preparation | in a 32-ounce glass jar, combine cherries and sugar. Muddle together well, cover and let sit at room temperature for 2 hours. Muddle cherries in jar again to extract as much juice as possible, and then add vinegar to jar and stir. Cover and refrigerate for 2 days. remove mixture from refrigerator and muddle cherries once more. strain mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean 32-ounce glass jar. shrub will keep for up to a week in refrigerator.

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This is summer in a glass: vibrant, punchy, tart and sweet. serves | 2 |

2 4

ice oz gin oz cherry shrub (recipe left) club soda, to taste

| preparation | Fill 2 cocktail glasses with ice. Add 1 ounce gin and 2 ounces shrub to each glass and stir. Top with club soda and stir once more. serve.

Kvass is a traditional Russian drink made by fermenting rye bread, which is then flavored with honey, mint, or fruits or vegetables such as berries or beets. Celery kvass is a somewhat unusual take with a tangy flavor. yields | 6 cups |

Celery and Bloody Marys go hand in hand, and the addition of celery kvass adds just the right amount of kick to this classic brunch cocktail. serves | 2 |

2 ½

ice oz vodka, divided cup celery kvass, divided (recipe right) Bloody Mary mix, to taste

For Garnish

celery lemon lime olives herbs

| preparation | Fill 2 pint glasses with ice. Add 1 ounce vodka and ¼ cup celery kvass to each glass and stir. Top each with Bloody Mary mix and stir once more. Add desired garnishes and serve.

½ ½ 1 ¼ 1 ¼ 3

lb celery, stalks and leaves tsp fennel seeds bay leaf cup parsley tsp black peppercorns tsp salt cups filtered water

| preparation | Wash celery and cut stalks in thirds. (do not discard leaves.) in a 32-ounce glass jar, add next 5 ingredients and then add filtered water, allowing at least 1 inch between waterline and top of jar. if vegetables won’t stay submerged, use a fermentation weight to hold them down. seal jar with lid and set on a plate at room temperature for 5 days, burping every so often. strain liquid into a clean jar and chill before drinking. *Recipe adapted from Ferment your vegetables by Amanda Feifer

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I WIsh I KneW...

how to make creative fall apple dishes

Written by Sarah Kloepple

cinnamon baked apples

If you want to start with something simple, try these baked apple slices for a warm, fall treat. First, slice six apples and spread them across a baking sheet. Then, in a small bowl, mix sugar, brown sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg and evenly sprinkle the mixture in three layers over the slices. Bake in a 350ºF oven for 30 minutes. Pour water over apples and continue baking for 15 minutes until tender. Enjoy the warm slices with vanilla ice cream.

apple-roasted chicken

For something more savory, we suggest adding apples with your favorite roasted chicken. Chop one apple, one onion and one stalk of celery and toss with two cloves of garlic and a tablespoon of sage. Stuff the mixture in the chicken cavity and bake in the oven for about an hour and a half. For extra apple flavor, add apple cider to the pan juices for a sweet and savory au jus.

apple-cheddar fondue

When temperatures outside begin to drop, fondue is always a fun way to warm things up. For an apple-flavored dip, simmer ¹/8 cup each of apple cider and white wine. Then gradually whisk in ¾ pound of shredded Cheddar cheese tossed with two teaspoons of cornstarch until melted and smooth. For an added dash of fall flavor, add a pinch of nutmeg. Transfer fondue to a serving pot or bowl and serve with apple slices and cubed pieces of bread.

grilled cheese with apples and bacon

Is there a more perfect fall lunch combination than a grilled cheese sandwich and piping hot tomato soup? In fact, there is: a grilled cheese sandwich made with apples and bacon. Butter two pieces of bread, add pieces of Cheddar cheese and cooked bacon and cook each side in a medium-heat skillet for three minutes or until the cheese is melted and bread is golden brown. The sweet-and-salty addition to a traditional grilled cheese makes all the difference.

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apple brownies

Give classic chocolate brownies a dose of fall flavor with apple brownies. In a large mixing bowl, combine butter, sugar and an egg until fluffy. In a separate bowl, sift together flour, salt, baking powder, baking soda and cinnamon. Thinly slice three large apples and fold the slices into the wet mixture. Add in a ½ cup of chopped walnuts for extra crunch. Bake for 35 minutes in a 350ºF oven.

caramel apple cider

Elevate your favorite apple cider this season with this simple recipe for caramel apple cider. In a saucepan, stir together brown sugar and whipping cream and heat until bubbly. Then add vanilla and four cups of apple cider. Stir constantly over heat for 10 minutes. When cider is thoroughly heated, serve in mugs and top with dollops of whipped cream and a drizzle of caramel sauce.

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From its historic Kansas City Crossroads location, Tom’s Town Distilling Co. produces unique craft spirits that harken back to the era when infamous political boss Tom Pendergast controlled Kansas City. Its award-winning spirits include Pendergast’s Royal Gold Bourbon™, McElroy’s Corruption Gin™, and Eli’s StrongArm Vodka. All Tom’s Town spirits are available at retailers across Missouri and Kansas.

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hird-generation dairy farmer Kurt Bizenberger didn’t set out to make yogurt: He went broke. “I milked 300 cows in here, twice a day,” he says, gesturing to a now almost-empty barn outfitted with some milking equipment. “It wasn’t feasible – [you] can’t afford to stay in business just selling to co-ops. The price [of milk] fluctuates so much; you never know what you’re gonna get.” Bizenberger’s parents originally operated a dairy farm near Scott Air Force Base in St. Clair County, Illinois, but they were forced out in 1994 due to eminent domain when MidAmerica St. Louis Airport was built. The family relocated to Trenton, Illinois, and began building the new farm that same year.

TwenTy-four hours ago, cows were milked aT Windcrest dairy in TrenTon, illinois. Today, you can buy greek-sTyle and regular yogurT made wiTh The same milk in sTores across The sT. louis area. WRITTEN BY NANCY STILES

pHoToGRApHY BY JENNIFER SILvERBERG

“We were used to living in a valley with no wind,” Bizenberger says with a smile. “It’s so windy up here – we had dust in our eyes that whole summer – so my dad says, ‘Let’s call this place Windcrest.’ That was nearly 25 years ago.” Fast-forward to 2009, when Bizenberger was faced with selling his family’s farm or finding a way to make ends meet. A friend of his who sold him animal feed knew a fourth-generation dairy farmer, Steve Eickmeyer, who runs a family farm 35 miles south of Trenton that supplies milk to Dean Foods and Chester Dairy Co. out of Chester, Illinois. He was also looking for a way out of the milk-price rat race. “I searched for a long time, and I found another knucklehead like me who milks cows,” Bizenberger says with a laugh. “He invested with us [and] gave me enough money to get started.”

Eickmeyer originally wanted to make cheese – he now defers to nearby Marcoot Jersey Creamery and sells some of its cheeses at the Windcrest farmstead grocery store in Trenton – and Bizenberger wanted to bottle small-batch milk. Instead, they realized that nobody in the region was doing yogurt, despite its increasing popularity. Windcrest Dairy began making traditional and Greek-style yogurt that year in Trenton after visiting Sugar River Dairy in Albany, Wisconsin – one of the Midwest’s few yogurt creameries – and adapting its recipe. To their knowledge, Windcrest has the smallest grade-A processing plant for a dairy farm in the state of Illinois. “Name recognition, world of mouth: That’s how we’ve gotten the product where it is today,” Eickmeyer says. “But our competition – the Dannons, the Yoplaits – they’re huge. They throw away more than we make.” The two dairy farmers first got Windcrest into Schnucks and Dierbergs stores in St. Louis and southern Illinois by delivering samples in person, picking up $20 in sales here and there. Eventually, Windcrest picked up larger accounts, too – including Eataly Chicago, Washington University in St. Louis, Saint Louis University and Barnes-Jewish Hospital in St. Louis – but it’s difficult to compete with national brands that work with giant food distributors like Sysco and US Foods. Windcrest yogurt is also sold in smaller stores in the St. Louis area including Straub’s, Fields Foods and Local Harvest Grocery, plus a few in southern Illinois.

“I thInk our connectIon Is that much more IntImate because we raIse those calves that make the mIlk to do thIs,” steve eIckmeyer says. “It’s really near and dear to our hearts.”

“It takes a special manager to appreciate it because it costs more,” Bizenberger says. “Once you get people to try it, [they buy it].”

Greek yogurt – also called strained yogurt or yiaourti in Greece – is common in Europe, the Middle East and India, but countries as varied as Turkey to Denmark, as well as its namesake, Greece, claim it as part of their traditional cuisine. Unlike regular yogurt, Greek yogurt has been strained to remove some of the liquid whey, resulting in a thicker consistency and higher fat and protein contents. Athens-based Fage has been selling Greek

yogurt in the U.S. since 1998, but after the launch of Chobani in 2007, it really saw an uptick in popularity in the West. Greek yogurt can be used in recipes as a substitute for mayonnaise, sour cream or butter – just a quick glance at Pinterest, and you’re likely to spot recipes for deviled eggs, chicken salad or waffles, all made with Greek yogurt. Even traditional yogurt is fairly new to the American palate: The son of a Spanish yogurt manufacturer launched Dannon in the Bronx in 1942. By the 1950s, the company declared the snack “completely Americanized” with the invention of vanilla yogurt, and the ensuing decade saw additives like fruit flavoring, artificial

coloring and potassium sorbate, a preservative. Dannon’s Oikos label of Greek yogurt debuted in 2010 following the success of Chobani: Greek yogurt sales increased nationally by 2,500 percent from 2005 to 2011. Windcrest’s plain Greek-style yogurt is made with only three ingredients: milk, milk protein concentrate and yeast cultures. As a result, it’s not as smooth as, say, a tub of Oikos, but it’s fluffier and sweeter – or perhaps just less sour. It can’t technically be called “Greek” because Windcrest uses milk protein instead of straining the yogurt. “Ours is all-milk, all-natural stuff,” Bizenberger says. “You look at some of

these ingredients with corn syrups, corn starches – it’s cheap. That’s why the yogurt’s so cheap, too.” Eickmeyer nods his head in agreement. “And the preservative... that stuff is made in New England six months ago, and you open it up, and it looks fine. There’s a reason for that,” he adds. “That’s what we’ve become accustomed to – right, wrong or indifferent, that’s the battle we face.” The two men agree that Windcrest’s yogurt has a consistent flavor, despite the lack of processing, because they control what the cows eat and where the milk comes from. They feed their herd (which is about 90 percent Holstein; there’s at least one cow

“[WiTh] The big guys, a Truck goes To The farm, picks up The milk and comingles iT WiTh [milk from] 10 oTher producers,” sTeve eickmeyer says. “They unload iT in a big milk silo, and 20 people Touch ThaT milk. TWo Weeks laTer, iT’s on a shelf.”

“with a little Jersey in her”) a mixture of hay, corn, grass and nutritional supplements. “I think our connection is that much more intimate because we raise those calves that make the milk to do this,” Eickmeyer says. “It’s really near and dear to our hearts. [With] the big guys, a truck goes to the farm, picks up the milk and comingles it with [milk from] 10 other producers. They unload it in a big milk silo, and 20 people touch that milk. Two weeks later, it’s on a shelf. There are days [at Windcrest] where within 24 hours of when that cow was milked, [the yogurt] is on the shelf somewhere.” “Once a week, everything’s turned,”

Bizenburger adds. “It’s fresh, and it’s a big taste difference.”

room for six hours and left to ferment. The preservative-free Greek-style yogurt is often on store shelves and in school “That’s the beauty of what we do,” Eickmeyer cafeterias across Missouri and Illinois by agrees, “and that’s where our customers the next morning. appreciate us.” The machine that squirts milk from the Six days a week, milk is pumped from pasteurization tank into 6- and 24-ounce eight cows at 101ºF into a holding tank; it plastic containers is new and was recently hits a cool 37ºF before being pasteurized installed; Windcrest’s original machine, at 186ºF for half an hour. The milk is which was purchased used, served the then squirted, along with active yeast dairy for four years. Today it’s sitting out in culture, into plastic yogurt containers the grass, waiting to return to Wisconsin. emblazoned with Windcrest Dairy’s Kittens of various colors peek out from signature farmstead windmill on the label. underneath it, and across the lawn, donkeys (This process varies depending on the graze, goats sit atop a wooden platform, flavor being made.) It’s then transferred multicolored ducks waddle across the into a 110ºF, temperature-controlled gravel and fuzzy black baby pigs scurry out

from a barn as a farmhand pours leftover milk into feed bowls. Bizenburger says these animals are there “just for fun” – when school tours stop by, which happens often, kids love petting and playing with them. Windcrest makes regular and Greek-style yogurt in plain, vanilla, blueberry, raspberry, strawberry and peach, plus vanilla latte made with coffee from St. Louis area-based Stringbean Coffee Co. Bizenburger met Stringbean owner Pete Cohen four years ago at a local farmers’ market, and they bonded over a shared love of coffee and Boston Terriers. “The Windcrest Dairy Vanilla Latte [Greek yogurt] started when my hot coffee was

“There are days [aT WindcresT] Where WiThin 24 hours of When ThaT coW Was milked, [The yogurT] is on The shelf someWhere,” eickmeyer says.

added to his yogurt cup… it was runny and gross,” Cohen explains. “After nearly six months and a lot of trial and error, Kurt perfected the Windcrest-Stringbean blend.” Originally, Bizenberger and Eickmeyer planned to grow their own fruit to use in the yogurt or source fresh produce from local farms. Yet to be certified as a grade-A product, everything that goes into the yogurt has to be certified grade A, as well, meaning you can’t just pull juicy peaches off the vine at a local orchard. “We couldn’t, unless we wanted to spend another half a million dollars on fruit alone, because the fruit has to be pasteurized just like the milk,” Eickmeyer laments. “To my knowledge, there are only two [fruit-processing plants] that do that – one on the West Coast and one on the East Coast. They’ve got a natural advantage out there. It’s not as simple as we thought in the beginning.” (This same standard doesn’t apply to coffee, which is considered a flavoring, or for the organic cane sugar used to sweeten Windcrest’s vanilla yogurt.) Despite growing retail locations and cafeteria accounts, the two men say Windcrest is just barely eking by; the goal is to land larger accounts like schools and hospitals. When school’s in session, Windcrest does 1,000 pounds a day, six days a week, but Bizenberger says it has the capacity to do 4,000 pounds a day. Bizenberger is Windcrest’s only full-time employee, but there are three or four part-time workers who help. Cows are at a minimum right now at Windcrest: Dairy farmers sell their wares wholesale but have to buy things like feed at retail price. Bizenburger reckons it costs about $6 to $7 a day to feed a cow; if they had a herd of 100 cows, that’s $18,000 a month spent on feed alone, plus added costs like veterinary services. “[It’s] all I know – I don’t think educated people would do this, quite honestly,” Eickmeyer jokes of dairy farming. “We love the cows,” Bizenberger says and nods, adjusting his Windcrest Dairy-branded baseball cap. “You gotta love the cows.” “Dairy farming is twice a day, 365 days a year,” Eickmeyer says. “I’ve got a son and grandson and two daughters – I hope dairy can be a part of their lives, as well. You never know.” “The goal is to get this place full again and use all that milk,” Bizenberger adds. “That’s the dream.” Windcrest Dairy, 14898 Old Trenton Road, Trenton, Illinois, 618.224.7802, windcrestdairy.com

Feast Magazine is hosting a food truck event of each month in one of Kansas City’s beautiful parks. We’ll highlight prominent fountains throughout the city, while guests enjoy food from some of the city’s most popular food trucks.

p.m. - 7:30 p.m. 0 :3 5 8 r e b m e thursday, sept keSSler park IN IN ta N U O F e S r U O the CONC

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receive a free mist twst with every food purchase

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lunch â&#x20AC;˘ Dinner happy hour 10701 Watson Rd. | Saint Louis, MO | twistedtreesteakhouse.com

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Bluestem Missouri Crafts

39th Annual Heritage Festival

Take a stroll up Ninth Street and drop into Bluestem Crafts to experience fine crafts created in Missouri

Join us on Saturday & Sunday, September 17 & 18, 2016 from 10 am - 5 pm as visitors will be taken back to the traditions of the past. Listen, learn, and see history as it comes alive. See artisans and tradesmen dressed in 19th century attire demonstrating their trades and selling their wares. A large contemporary handmade craft area will also be featured. Historic Nifong Park 3700 Ponderosa St.

and the eight neighboring states! Check out individually handmade creations from nearly 300 artists. The selection of fine and fun pieces has been produced by established artists, craftspeople, students, and apprentices in our little part of the world – the Midwest. There’s sure to be something you’ll want for someone special. And they will gift wrap it at no extra charge!

(Hwy 63 S & AC/Grindstone Parkway exit west)

Columbia, Missouri

13 South 9th St. Columbia, MO 65201 (573) 442-0211 www.bluestemcrafts.com

Chris McD' s Restaurant and Wine Bar

Chris McD’s has provided Columbia with a taste of American fine dining since 1991. The restaurant specializes in steaks and seafood while the full service bar provides a great setting for relaxing or socializing. Chris McD’s has been locally owned and operated since 1991, providing Mid-Missouri with a wide variety of top quality, full-flavor cuisine including Columbia’s freshest seafood, steak, pasta, chicken and daily chef specials. Chris McD’s is an award winning restaurant, including: Restaurant of the Year, Best Seafood Restaurant, Best Dessert House, and Midwest Iron Chef Champion (Chris McDonnell) 1400 Forum Blvd., Columbia, MO 65203 (573) 446-6237 chrismcds.com

The Tiger Hotel

10th Annual Roots N Blues N BBQ Festival

The Tiger Hotel is a luxury boutique hotel located in the heart of Columbia, Missouri on The Historic Avenue of The Columns and just steps from the Francis Quadrangle and Jesse Hall at the University of Missouri. Its downtown location provides walking access to the many restaurants, bars and stores that Columbia’s downtown district has to offer.

Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, September 30 - October 2, 2016 at Stephens Lake Park in Columbia, Missouri. The festival features over 30 artists representing the genres of roots, blues, gospel, country, folk, bluegrass, rock, and soul. American Blues Scene Magazine called it “One of the most prominent festivals in the country!” As well as live music, fans enjoy delicious BBQ from local and regional vendors. The festival includes a kick-off event Thursday night, a ½ Marathon and 10K on Saturday morning, and a Gospel Celebration on Sunday. The festival is a fun, true and unique celebration of music, food, and culture.

23 South 8th St, Columbia, MO 65201 (573) 875-8888 thetigerhotel.com

Tallulahs Located on Broadway in the heart of The District, Tallulahs offers everything from easy-to-use gadgets to stunning serving pieces. Owners Melissa Alabach and Mary Stauffer keep their merchandise fresh by traveling to national markets and hand selecting only the best products for their local Columbia community. Make the trip to 812 E. Broadway, and see what Tallulahs has to offer today!

10-6 Monday - Saturday • Sunday 12-4

812 E Broadway, Columbia, MO 65201 (573) 442-9550 tallulahsstore.com

Makes Scents

For more Info visit rootsnbluesnbbq.com

South East Craft Beer Fest Join us on October 15, 2016 for a day filled with craft beer, food trucks, craft beer arts and crafts, live music and outdoor entertainment. The South East Craft Beer Fest is an annual event that brings together craft breweries of all sizes and locations for a day of tasting new beers, making new friends and having a great time. The wide variety and styles of beers, the people, the variety of food trucks, the live music, and the general atmosphere has the South East Craft Beer Fest being described as a "Must go" by brewers and attendees alike. See you there! For more Info visit secbeerfest.com

Welcome to the wonderfully fragrant world of Makes Scents. We offer a unique experience in our shop filled with products for bath, body, and home. With over 200 fragrances to choose from, our friendly staff will help you create your very own custom scents to suit your many moods. We also carry a variety of wonderful products from around the world, and right here in Missouri. It smells good in here. 19 South 9th Street Columbia, MO 65201 (573) 445-1611 www.makesscentsonline.com

Casual Food, Craft Beer & Cocktails. 21 N 9th St | Columbia, MO 65201 573.777.8730 • 44canteen.com

Columbia’s Gastropub. Quality Food, Fine Ales & Good Whiskey.

3910 Peachtree Drive | Columbia MO 65203 Featuring Sunday Brunch at both locations! 573.443.2726 • 44stonepub.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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Kansas City Canning Co. makes award-winning pickles, preserves and shrubs with local flavor. Written by april Fleming

photography by anna petroW

ansas City’s largely industrial East Bottoms neighborhood is the definition of tucked away. Flanked on one side by heavily trafficked railroad lines and on the other by a bluff that juts 200 feet up to the city’s Historic Northeast, only 360 residents live inside its 2.6 square miles. What the East Bottoms lacks in population, though, it makes up for with a handful of popular local businesses, including Local Pig, Pigwich and J. Rieger & Co. distillery. The newest addition to the neighborhood is Kansas City Canning Co., owned by Laura and Tim Tuohy. The Tuohys’ production facility is located inside what is instantly recognizable as a former Town Topic diner, another local favorite. (Fittingly, it also happens to be just four short blocks from the long-shuttered, turn-of-the-century Speas Vinegar Co. plant.) It’s a small and stout structure made of red brick and glass, topped with the curvy silhouette of the iconic Town Topic sign, although the neon is long gone. The interior also still resembles a diner, but you won’t find burgers sizzling on a griddle: The counter is now topped with polished granite and, at times, empty glass bottles. The kitchen has been outfitted with modern equipment, including a commercial gas range, a proofer and a tilt skillet – a large, rectangular kettle with a hinged lid. On a recent visit, Tim attends to the tilt skillet: With the lid propped open, he stirs a very fragrant, pale yellow mixture of Meyer lemon purée, lavender, white balsamic vinegar and sugar that he keeps at a steady high temperature. The mixture is perfuming the air with citrus and the sharp scent of vinegar. He’s finishing a batch of Kansas City Canning Co.’s signature Meyer Lemon-Lavender Shrub. As he works on one side of the kitchen, his wife and co-owner, Laura, fills custom mail orders at the counter. Tim allows the mixture to cook to 185°F to fully develop its flavor and adhere to Food and Drug Administration safety standards. The Tuohys must be exacting about pH levels to prevent harmful bacteria from growing in their products, and they cook each mixture at a high enough temperature to both kill bacteria and preserve the contents to ensure everything is shelf-stable. After about 10 minutes, Tim pours the tilt skillet’s contents through a strainer into a brew kettle. The brew kettle is a large, open-topped cylinder with a spigot near the bottom – sort of the stainless steel version of a big orange Gatorade dispenser. As he pours the mixture into the kettle, the vinegar in the air is enough to make your eyes burn. Tim attaches a rubber tube to the spigot and begins filling Kansas City Canning Co.’s signature rounded-top bottles with the shrub. The company’s shrubs have quickly become one of its most popular items, although they were added to the lineup almost on a whim: When a spiced-pear butter failed to properly set, the couple transformed the resulting mixture into a shrub.

“From there, we realized that shrubs were fun – way fun,” Laura says with a laugh. The company now produces shrubs in five flavors: Watermelon-Habanero, Apple-Caraway, Blood Orange-Ginger, Smoked Spiced Pear and the Meyer Lemon-Lavender. On another day, Tim might be making preserves or pickles. To make pickled products like their popular Pickled Balsamic Grapes, the Tuohys use acidification, one of two ways to pickle food. Acidification involves adding an acetic acid, such as vinegar, to reduce the pH level of produce, preserving it. Acidified produce is then placed into jars and sealed airtight. The other method for making pickles is through fermentation: Ingredients are soaked in a salt brine, allowing good bacteria to naturally create acid inside the jar. Soon – and for the first time – Kansas City Canning Co. will begin making fermented products, including a Fermented Missouri Black Garlic Paste.

Tim and Laura were raised in different cities – she’s from Leawood, Kansas, and he hails from Old Bridge, New Jersey – but they bonded over a mutual love of canning and preserving foods. “Growing up, I canned with my grandma on her farm, and Tim grew up making Sunday sauce and canning tomatoes,” Laura says. “My grandma would let us light off fireworks if we canned all of the tomatoes.” Laura met Tim while the two were both living in New York City. He attended the Institute of Culinary Education in Manhattan, and the couple eventually moved into an apartment together in Astoria, Queens. Their backyard included a large sour cherry tree, and soon, the couple began harvesting cherries. “Tim was so zen about it,” Laura says. “I’d come home from work, and he’d be out there picking. It’s so rare in New York to find a tree that bears fruit that you’d be comfortable eating. We made everything… shrubs, we made pie filling for days. We didn’t even have a pitter – our hands were raw and stained red.” In 2012, the couple made the move to Kansas City: Laura took a job at The University of Kansas (KU), and Tim began working as a chef at the hospitality group Beer KC, which owns Beer Kitchen, The Foundry and McCoy’s Public House. Two years after moving to the Midwest, the Tuohys got married, bought a house and founded a company. “We made our Clementine-Thyme Marmalade for the wedding,” Laura says. “And Jill [Myers] from Moxie Catering also used it to make us a Bourbon Smash. It was a really boozy cocktail, but people

2016

Augusta Harvest Festival ‘Swing’n in the Vines’ September 15 - 18

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Friday, September 30, 2016 Hilton President-Kansas City 6:00pm Tasting Reception and 7:30pm Dinner

Sunday Day, Featuring: “A Day at the American Legion” Art Sale,Winning Pie Sale, BBQ, and a Celebration Jazz Band! A portion of the proceeds will go toward the efforts to help preserve the American Legion Hall in becoming

Augusta’s Culture Arts Center For tickets and info visit www.augusta-chamber.org or call 636-228-4005 Greater Augusta Chamber of Commerce Augusta, MO

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couldn’t really taste the alcohol. We also gave out little jars as favors. People were like, ‘You should sell this.’” Within seven months, Kansas City Canning Co. was officially in business, offering its first four products: Pickled Balsamic Grapes, Clementine-Thyme Marmalade, Ancho-Date Butter and 7-Pepper Jelly. Several local shops, including The Sundry, Westside Storey and Urban Provisions immediately began stocking Kansas City Canning Co.’s goods. The Tuohys also began filling orders from the company’s website. “We were blown away by the reception,” Laura says. The Tuohys waited to release pickles and other pickled products until spring 2015, when they could meet local farmers and source fresh and seasonal produce. Today the couple sources fruits and vegetables from local organizations such as BoysGrow, Cultivate Kansas City, New Roots for Refugees, Kansas City Food Circle and Powell Gardens (Kansas City’s botanical garden), each of which strives in different ways to connect urban residents with farming. In the case of BoysGrow, the Tuohys can select their own seeds for the crops they want to yield. “Going out to the farms is such a privilege,” Laura says. “We’ll go out to Juniper [Gardens Training Farm, home of New Roots for Refugees], and the farmers will pull something out of the ground, brush the dirt off of it and ask you to taste it. It’s exciting to be a small part of what is driving our agricultural system.” The Tuohys choose produce based on what’s in season and available. In the summer, that includes green beans (used to make their tangy Sriracha-Pickled Green Beans) or green and blush tomatoes for their Pickled Green Tomatoes and Half-Ripe Tomato Relish. The couple also tries to work with farmers who need to unload excess or seemingly unsellable produce – bruised tomatoes or oddly shaped cucumbers, for example. “We take green [tomatoes] at the end of harvest that won’t ripen,” Laura says, referring to the core component of their pickled green tomatoes. “And the Half-Ripe Tomato Relish is from the blush tomatoes that we can’t pickle.” Local produce is only part of what makes the company’s products so special: The other component is the couple’s creative flavors – surely a big reason why their goods fly off store shelves. “Both of us lean toward bold [flavor] combinations – we like people to find unexpected elements in something familiar, but not so much that we blunt the natural notes of whatever produce we’re using,” Laura says.

-LAURA TUoHY

OPEN ALL YEAR

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“We chose the pairing in our Sriracha-Pickled Green Beans based on the idea that green beans have a great ability to stay super crisp when pickled – their mellowness can foil the complex intensity of the spice and heavy salt brine so well. We wanted them to be a pickle equivalent of a potato chip: salty and addictive.” Tim agrees, adding that the couple labored over the recipe for their Cucumber Dilly Pickles, their take on classic dill pickles. “We want things to be delicious, and another important thing is that there is a nostalgia factor to it,” Tim says. “I probably did more test batches of those [Dilly] pickles than anything else. It takes a while to get the texture right.”

In January, to the Tuohys’ great surprise, Kansas City Canning Co.’s Apple-Caraway Shrub was named a 2016 Good Food Awards winner in the spirits category. Such recognition would be impressive for any new company, but it’s especially significant given the stiff competition from across the country. (The company’s 7-Pepper Jelly was a finalist in the preserves category, as well.) “When we were in San Francisco, they announced ‘from Missouri,’ and we were like, ‘Who else is from Missouri?’” Laura says. “And they said we won, and it was

crazy! That has given us a great network of people to meet and collaborate with.” In the nearly two years since Kansas City Canning Co. launched, its product line has expanded from four offerings to 16, featuring six types of pickles; five varieties of spreads and preserves, including 7-Pepper Jelly, Ancho-Date Butter, Vanilla-Bourbon-Peach Preserves and Rosemary-Fig Spread; plus its five flavored shrubs. The products are also gaining the attention of notable chefs and industry experts across the country. While at the Good Food Awards, the buyer for Bizarre Foods host Andrew Zimmern tried a few of Kansas

City Canning Co.’s shrubs. Laura and Tim sent the buyer a few more samples, and not long after, she reached out to say that Zimmern liked them so much he wanted to sell two of the flavors (Watermelon-Habanero and Blood Orange-Ginger) on his website. Kansas City Canning Co. plans to release more products this fall, including a Pickled Bloody Mary Mix, Charred and Pickled Shishito Peppers, and three items the Tuohys are particularly excited about: spicy Pickled Mini Gherkins Laura has dubbed “Lil Wollops,” a Beet-Tarragon Shrub and the Fermented Missouri Black Garlic Paste, which Tim is eager to make using the company’s new proofer.

The Tuohys still look for inspiration locally – and not just at farmers’ markets. “At Powell Gardens they grow something called roselle,” Laura says. “When you dry it, it’s beautiful and pink and citrusy. We’re going to make a tamarind-roselle shrub out of that. We want to highlight the amount of beautiful produce being grown in our state.” Kansas City Canning Co. products are now available in 25 stores across the country and grace the pages of a dozen menus across the Kansas City area, including Plate, Julep, Tom’s Town Distilling Co. and Green Dirt Farm Creamery. The company has become an almost full-time job for Tim, who consults on the side – most notably for the menu at Tom’s Town Distilling Co. – while Laura now works in the health clinic at Cerner. At the end of the day, Laura says she and Tim love creating food that brings people together – and the couple’s products do just that: shrubs for mixing into cocktails and snacks for sharing with friends and family. “Tim and I believe in the opportunity food has to create and facilitate memories for people,” Laura says. “We love being a small part of someone’s experience.” Kansas City Canning Co., kansascitycanningco.com

Julep’s C. Brown Kansas City Canning Co.’s shrubs aren’t its only cocktail-appropriate product, as demonstrated in the following recipe that employs its spicy 7-Pepper Jelly. Recipe by beau Williams, co-oWneR, Julep seRves | 1 |

1½ ½ ½ 1 1

oz bourbon oz simple syrup oz lemon juice oz orange juice Tbsp Kansas City Canning Co. 7-Pepper Jelly ice pickled pepper or fresh mint (for garnish)

| preparation | combine first 5 ingredients in a mixing glass and fill with ice. cap with a shaker tin and shake vigorously. Double-strain through a tea strainer into an old Fashioned glass and fill with ice. Garnish with a pickled pepper or mint and serve.

Clementine-thyme Glazed pork tenderloin Recipe by Tim Tuohy, co-oWneR, Kansas ciTy canninG co. seRves | 4 |

2 2 ¼ ½ 5 1 ¼ 1 2 1 ½

lbs pork tenderloin Tbsp salt cup brown sugar cup warm water sprigs fresh thyme Tbsp freshly ground five-pepper medley or black pepper zest and juice of 1 orange cup olive oil (not extra virgin) tsp whole allspice (or ¼ tsp ground allspice) star anise (optional) Tbsp cooking oil (avocado, vegetable or canola) cup Kansas City Canning Co. Clementine-Thyme Marmalade

| preparation | With a paring knife, remove any remaining silver skin from tenderloin. Dissolve salt and brown sugar in warm water. combine thyme, pepper, orange zest and juice, olive oil, allspice and star anise in a 1-gallon freezer bag. place pork in plastic bag and seal, removing as much air as possible. Refrigerate at least 1 hour, but no more than 4.

PICTURED abovE: Tim and Laura Tuohy, owners of Kansas City

Canning Co. PICTURED LEFT: Each of the company’s products is made from scratch and packaged by hand.

the Bee’s knees “Pick a local honey variety with floral notes. We scoop ours from the lovely Messner Family Farm [in Kansas City] – it’s a rich foil to the sharper elements in the mix.” –Laura Tuohy Recipe by Tim Tuohy, co-oWneR, Kansas ciTy canninG co. seRves | 1 |

2 ½ ½ 1 ½

ice oz gin oz honey oz elderflower liqueur oz Kansas City Canning Co. Meyer Lemon-Lavender Shrub oz Champagne lemon rind (for garnish) edible flower petals (for garnish)

| preparation | Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. add gin, honey, elderflower liqueur and shrub and shake well. strain into a chilled coupe glass. Top with champagne and garnish with lemon rind and edible flower petals.

preheat oven to 375°F. Remove pork from brine and pat dry with paper towel. allow pork to come to room temperature before cooking. in an oven-safe sauté pan or a cast-iron skillet over high heat, heat oil. Quickly sear pork on all sides until golden brown. spread marmalade over pork and place skillet in preheated oven. Roast until a meat thermometer placed into center of tenderloin reads 155°F, 12 to 17 minutes. marmalade will begin to caramelize around pork edges and brown on top. allow to rest for 10 minutes before slicing into medallions on a slight bias.

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let’s be frank. From backyard barbecues to ballpark bleachers, hot dogs are a summer staple. This month, we invited our Instagram followers to share photos of specialty hot dogs – from those topped with fun ingredients at restaurants and food trucks to those flipped on the grill at home – by using the hashtag #feastgram. For a Japanese spin on a classic hot dog, turn to p. 20 to learn about chef Jason Miller’s okonomiyaki dog at Instant Karma Gourmet Hot Dogs in Joplin, Missouri. Then, flip to p. 72 for an easy recipe for a fun hot dog or sausage topping: red beet sauerkraut.

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| 1 | kelsey @whatkelseyeats A pretty terrifc night of grillin’ and porchin’. Grill peppers and onions in the pan with beer, broth, mustard and Worcestershire sauce. Sear the sausages (brats and Italian sausage in our case) and then finish in the pan. Tastes delish on pretzel bread! #SummerCooking | 2 | mary armstrong @annoyinglyshiny Dogs ‘n Frys is beyond any other hot dog you will ever eat. Can you say breakfast hot dog?

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| 3 | siDney street CaFe @sidneystcafe Housemade hot dog, spicy ketchup, pretzel gnocchi, pickled mustard seed, pickled tomato relish and beer mustard velouté.

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| 4 | kimmy Cook @foodandtraveljunkie Woofie’s Hot Dogs | St. Louis, Missouri. | 5 | sam miChell @sammichell In the need for green today? #EatUpDog (at UpDog in Independence, Missouri) | 6 | kaleena stahr @kuhleanuh_lfk In my mouf. (at Leeway Franks) | 7 | whitney & neil osterCamp @newlywedchefs Bidding fairwell to the dog days of summer with Buffalo dogs inspired by @BonAppetitMag.

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| 8 | CanDis stiebel @candis.stiebel Mary’s Little Lamb sausage from @FranklySausages food truck is #Delicious | 9 | steVe’s hot Dogs on the hill @steveshotdogs Don’t forget the C-3PO Street Corn Dog is in the house ‘til Sunday. Magic words for $1 off are “Two Nice Guys.” | 10 | ron morse @mrron2u The No. 1 reason I love the OP Farmers’ Market! #WienerWagonKC

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Want to see your photos in the October issue of Feast?

Next month, we’re celebrating the great outdoors. We want to see the fish you’re eating, from fresh catches on fishing trips to the flaky fish tacos, grilled fish dishes, and fish and chips cooked at home or ordered at local restaurants. To submit your photos for consideration, simply include the hashtag #feastgram and tag @feastmag on your Instagram photos beginning Thu., Sept. 1. 98

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PHOTOGrAPHy COUrTESy INSTAGrAM USErS

#feastgram

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What’s For

DINNER?

Schnucks golden fried chicken is a real crowd pleaser! We hand bread fresh marinated chicken in our own special seasoning. It’s delicious and juicy on the inside and crispy on the outside!

100

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