FFD April

BOOTHS SUPERMARKETS 14 Chris Dee: ‘It’s not about scale, it’s about attitude’

STEPHANY HARDINGHAM 28 The ‘cream ice’ specialist on fresh fruit, famous fans – and plain vanilla

DELI OF THE MONTH 50 Salvo’s Salumeria & Café, Leeds

April 2012 · Vol 13 Issue 3

PINK AND PERKY

Add colour to your ice cream offer with our preview of the new season’s flavours CHEF’S SELECTION 46 Tom Kerridge of the Michelin-starred Hand & Flowers in Marlow on Stornoway black pudding, Pratt’s rapeseed oil and Monty’s cheddar

DEAL OR NO DEAL? 4 Should fine food stores follow the multiples’ lead on price promotion?

NEWS CHEESEWIRE ICE CREAM DRESSINGS & SAUCES OUTDOOR DINING PREVIEW: THE SOURCE BEERS & CIDERS SHELF TALK

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Vol.13 Issue 2 路 March 2012

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What’s new this month:

Opinion

often takes three years to cure but during that time bad saturated fat transforms into good by developing properties similar to that found BOB FARRAND in olive oil. This ham is on every counter in every bar and restaurant in the region, and the locals eat loads of it.

The worst part of being teetotal, They also eat red meat and American crooner Dean Martin drink copious quantities of wine, all famously remarked, is that when underpinned with fresh fish, fruit you wake in the morning it’s the and vegetables. And masses of best you're going to feel all day. bread, too.

Dino’s words sprang to mind On average, the men live into during a conversation last month at their mid-eighties the launch of Great and the women live Taste at Cadogan, My New Year even longer. (They a London pop-up restaurant featuring hangover could last always do. Anyone know why?)

Great Taste Awardall year and I’m For most of my winning food and unsure if it’ll ever life I've downed drink. get better espresso coffee most The chat mornings, enjoyed concerned the a bit of bacon and quaffed several latest food surveys, which tell us it’s glasses of wine every evening. fatal to drink two espressos each Sunday rarely passes without a roast. morning, two glasses of wine in the If some clod is convinced I'm killing evening and two steaks and four myself, he should offer a copperrashers of bacon every week. bottomed guarantee that if I give My New Year hangover could last them up at my advanced age my life all year and I’m unsure if it’ll ever expectancy is going to improve. I’d get better, as my lifespan has clearly be so angry if I denied myself the been foreshortened by the food and pleasures of fine food and drink only drink I enjoy most. to discover it made no difference to How was January trading? Yeah, the moment when I shuffle off this same for us too. Was February any mortal coil. different? It’s so tough holding Gip Dammone of Salvo’s margin. So why do inconsiderate Salumeria & Café in Leeds, who is researchers wait until we’ve finally interviewed on page 50, blames settled our Christmas credit card bills government for letting supermarkets and bunged a slug of cash at the dictate our diet instead of teaching taxman to fund the Olympics before the virtues of quality food, wellwarning us yet again that the platter prepared. He’s right, good food of cold meat and glass of red we’ve satisfies and if we eat well, we look looked forward to all day is an well. And that’s the best you’ll feel express ticket to the grave? every day.

A decade ago, I visited Extremadura in Spain, where Jamon Bob Farrand is publisher of Fine Food Iberico de Bellota is produced.

Digest and national director of the This delicious ‘processed’ meat Guild of Fine Food

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EDITORIAL editorial@finefoodworld.co.uk Editor: Mick Whitworth Assistant editor: Michael Lane News editor: Patrick McGuigan Art director: Mark Windsor Editorial production: Richard Charnley Contributors: Lynda Searby, Clare Hargreaves

ADVERTISING advertise@finefoodworld.co.uk Sales manager: Sally Coley Advertisement sales: Becky Stacey, Gavin Weeks Published by Great Taste Publications Ltd and the Guild of Fine Food Ltd Managing director/FFD publisher: Bob Farrand Director/FFD associate publisher: John Farrand Director/membership secretary: Linda Farrand Marketing & circulation manager: Tortie Farrand Administrators: Charlie Westcar, Julie Coates Accounts: Stephen Guppy, Denise Ballance

GENERAL ENQUIRIES Tel: 01963 824464 Fax: 01963 824651 info@finefoodworld.co.uk www.finefoodworld.co.uk Guild of Fine Food, Guild House, Station Road, Wincanton, Somerset BA9 9FE UK Fine Food Digest is published 11 times a year and is available on subscription for £40pa inclusive of post and packing.

Printed by: Advent Colour, Hants, UK © Great Taste Publications Ltd and The Guild of Fine Food Ltd 2012. Reproduction of whole or part of this magazine without the publisher’s prior permission is prohibited. The opinions expressed in articles and advertisements are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher. The publisher cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or illustrations.

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Editor’s choice

Selected by Mick Whitworth

Hebridean Sea Salt natalie@hebrideanseasalt.co.uk

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I spotted Natalie Crayton’s planned sea salt brand back in the autumn and thought I sniffed a winner. Launch was delayed from January to May while she tweaked product and packaging – the pack shown here is the final version – but with Halen Môn on Anglesey and the newer Cornish Sea Salt now well established, I reckon there’s a clear niche for a Scottish gourmet salt. Natalie has to crack distribution from the Outer Hebrides but hopefully she can get some pointers from another Hebridean favourite of mine, Stag Bakeries.

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For regular news updates from the industry's favourite magazine visit:

www.ffdonline.co.uk Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012

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fine food news If delis act like supermarkets, will they be thought of like supermarkets?

The shift from BOGOFs to price cuts could hold lessons for independents

Indies urged to take lead from multiples on promotions

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Special offers are hard to implement if you have suppliers that aren't willing to reduce prices and you don't have huge marketing budgets. If you're going to do it, you have to be pretty sure you're going to get a reasonable return. We were thinking of doing a tea and cake deal, but worked out we would have to sell an extra 300 teas a month to cover our costs. It is easier to offer discounts in the café, where margins are higher. We're looking at a 'spend £10 in the deli and get a free coffee' deal at the moment.

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Dave Robinson, Corbridge Larder, Northumberland

Brett Critchley/Dreamstime.com

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Consultants say delis and farm shops should aim to offer some form of price deals

By PATRICK McGUIGAN

Independents are being urged to pursue promotions more heavily as the supermarkets shift from multi-buy offers to straight price reductions.

Nick Tapp, head of agribusiness at consultancy firm Bidwells, told FFD that specialty food retailers could learn from the multiples’ move.

“Shoppers don't have the money for multi-buys any more and the issue of food waste means there is political pressure on things like BOGOF deals, which is why you are seeing more price reductions on key lines,” said Tapp. Speciality retailers could follow this lead, but they have to do it in the right way for their businesses, he added.

“The advantage they have is that they can be dramatically lighter on their feet. The multiples will plan their promotions months in advance, but speciality shops have more flexible relationships with their suppliers so they can run a promotion when there is a sudden glut of produce.”

Tapp, who advises speciality food retailers, said promotions

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April 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 3

are generally underused by independents. “[Supermarkets] put a huge amount of time and effort into promotions for a reason. Speciality retailers should be looking harder for opportunities to offer promotions.”

In the past year, the major multiples have switched from multibuy deals to straightforward price cuts on individual lines.

According to research company Assosia, nearly half of all Tesco's promotions in February 2011 featured simple price reductions, but this had risen to 69% in February of this year. Asda has also changed its promotional mechanics in favour of price cuts and 'round pound' deals.

Jonathan Winchester, MD of mystery shopping company Shopper Anonymous, said most independent food retailers do not run promotions at all. He suggests running five special offers across the shop by negotiating with suppliers in advance.

“Consumers have been brainwashed into thinking delis and farm shops are expensive, but a lot of retailers just don't have a strategy

on promotions,” he said.“Talk to suppliers well in advance and have offers built into your year.”

At wholesaler Cotswold Fayre, managing director Paul Hargreaves told FFD last month that his sales team is trying to encourage retailers to be bolder with their merchandising and promotions.

“We always do six price promotions every month,” he said.

“Too many retailers have just taken the saving themselves and don’t pass it on to consumers.

“Consumers are not necessarily looking for bargains, but these days they are looking for a deal.

When consumers go into a deli or farm shop, subconsciously they are thinking ‘this is going to be expensive’.”

Milly Stokes, owner of Farndon Fields Farm Shop near Market Harborough, runs regular promotions.

“We’re doing 25% off Tyrrells crisps at the moment, which the supplier was happy to fund, and we recently ran a really popular promotion of a cauliflower and a cabbage for £1.50.

We had a glut of cabbages on the farm so it suited us.”

We ran a deal where if you bought a sandwich, you got soup for £1, but despite putting up big posters people didn't seem to notice the offer. I find that standing outside the front of the shop with free tasters and samples is still the best way to get new customers into the shop.

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Lorna Bunney, Bunney's Deli, North Berwick

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Supermarkets have the capacity to get behind promotions with TV adverts, shelf-edge talkers and by nailing suppliers to the floor on price.

That's not how we work; we don't have that killer instinct. Delis and farm shops are selling a premium product and if you get into discounting you start to tar yourself with the supermarket brush.

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Damian Caldwell, Halsey's Deli and Tearoom, Hitchin

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If fine food retailers emulate the multiples, they risk being seen as a multiple. A price reduction per se is not sufficient. It needs to be linked to a theme like Easter or Mother's Day with tastings and proper marketing. Many of the promotions that suppliers offer through us are used by retailers to fund tastings, rather than just knocking down the price. That's what good fine food retailers do – they interact and explain the story behind a product.

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Mike Cook, retail consultant, Guild of Fine Food retail promotions

Organics under continued pressure in farm shops Farm shops saw sales of organic products fall 3.5% last year, according to a new report from the Soil Association, which showed that total sales in the sector slumped again for a third year in a row.

The organic body said that overall sales of organics in the UK fell 3.7% in 2011 due to declines among the big supermarkets, while farm shops also struggled because of the “flat economy”.

Several farm shops told FFD that they had delisted organic lines in the past year because customers perceived them to be expensive.

However, Craig Stubbs, operations manager at Rhug Estate Farm Shop, said there were still opportunities for organics in the farm shop sector.

Around a third of the store's products are organic, including meat from the Estate, fruit and vegetables and dairy products, while its organic meat wholesale business saw sales increase 30% last year.

“People are still willing to pay a small premium for organic, but only if the product is really good quality,” he said. “It also helps to have a

Organic producers have seen sales fall for the third year in succession

mix of organic and non-organic products.

“If you have organic lines as part of a wider range at comparable prices, they sell very well. It's when there is a huge price differential that there is a problem.

“We also have big boards around the shop highlighting some of the benefits of organic products in terms of the environment, local wildlife and

Organic number-crunching l In 2008 sales of organic products totalled £2.1bn, but the sector has seen sales slide for three years in a row to £1.67bn in 2011. l Products that bucked the downward trend in the market included lamb (up 16%), baby food (up 6.6%) and poultry (up 5.8%). l Organic bread sales fell 13.6%, while organic dairy declined by 8.9% and organic meat fell by 5.7% l The number of organic producers and processors fell by 4% to 7,287, from 7,567 the previous year.

animal welfare. You have to tell the story of organics just like you would with Fairtrade or local.”

Home delivery companies selling organic food bucked the trend with sales in the sector up 7.2%, said the Soil Association.

Ocado increased its organic sales by 5.5% in the year to September 2011 after linking with producers such as Daylesford and Laverstoke Park. Abel & Cole and Riverford increased their turnover by 28% and 5% respectively.

Helen Browning, chief executive of the Soil Association, said: “Organic businesses continue to be amongst the most pioneering and creative around, constantly looking for ways to make their products more available and accessible to consumers.”

Revived Browne's Chocolates halts production Devon chocolatier Browne’s is closing less than a year after being bought out of administration by the entrepreneurs who turned around Cornish brewery Sharp’s.

The Okehampton-based firm ceased production in February and, in March, it let go six of the 10 staff that were re-hired when the business was saved last Spring.

When FFD contacted Browne’s Chocolates, the firm said it would not be going into administration.

It is understood that tough trading conditions are behind the closure.

Joe Keohane and Nick Baker rescued the business shortly after selling Sharp’s brewery to Molson Coors for £20m in January 2011. www.brownes.co.uk

l UK consumers are turning their backs on Champagne in favour of more affordable alternatives such as sparkling wine, according to new research which confirms the continued impact of the economic downturn. Figures published by the industry's trade body, the Champagne Bureau, showed that shipments to the UK fell by 2.7% in 2011, after leaping by 16.3% the previous year.

Popa Bogdan/Dreamstime.com

By PATRICK McGUIGAN

IN BRIEF

l Central London food co-op The People’s Supermarket has been saved from insolvency after raising enough cash to cover part of an unpaid business rate bill owed to Camden Council. The not-for-profit retailer received a reported £7,000 in donations from the public, as well as a loan from Fredericks Foundation, following an online appeal at the end of February. l Cranfields Foods’ pink grapefruit preserve took home the coveted Double Gold at The World’s Original Marmalade Awards 2012, held last month at Dalemain Mansion in Cumbria. The Exmoorbased firm's product will now be sold at Fortnum & Mason as will the Best in Show among the amateur categories, 70-year-old Hazel Rushton’s dark and chunky spread. l North Cotswold Food Producers has announced dates for three food festivals that will be held this year at Cotswold Farm Park, owned

by Adam Henson of BBC Countryfile fame. The first will take place on May 13, followed by further festivals on September 30 and December 2.

TELEGRAPH POLL: Hampshire-based deli Caracoli has won the food category of the Telegraph Magazine’s Best Small Shops in Britain 2012 awards, in which the public vote for their favourite independent retailers.

The retailer – which has shops in Alresford, Guildford and Winchester – saw off competition from hundreds of other businesses to win the title.

Holtwhites Bakery in Enfield and Clementine of Broughty in Dundee were runners-up in the category, while Lodsworth Larder in West Sussex was named best corner shop.

l Tesco’s head of UK & Ireland Richard Brasher stepped down unexpectedly last month leaving the role to be absorbed by group CEO Philip Clarke. Retail analyst Verdict said the supermarket chain is facing one of the most difficult periods in its history after its ‘Big Price Drop’ initiative underperformed during Christmas. l For regular news updates from Fine Food Digest, visit: www.finefoodworld.co.uk/ffdonline

Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012

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fine food news Controversial Truro food hall gets council go-ahead

By PATRICK McGUIGAN

Local councillors have voted narrowly in favour of controversial plans to develop a new Waitrose and Cornish food hall on Duchy of Cornwall land on the outskirts of Truro last month.

After a stormy three-hour meeting at County Hall in Truro, where members were nearly thrown out for booing and jeering, the plans were passed by 11 votes to eight.

As reported in FFD last year, the proposed Truro Eastern District Centre development includes designs to build a 6,000 sq ft Cornish Food Centre selling food and drink from local producers under the same roof as a 15,000 sq ft Waitrose store.

The scheme also includes a parkand-ride, household waste recycling

The development includes a parkand-ride and 98 new homes

centre and 98 new houses on Duchy of Cornwall land to the east of Truro. However, local residents and councillors have protested against the development, arguing that it will increase congestion and undermine town centre retailers.

In a letter to the Western Morning News published before the meeting Elwyn Jones, chairman of the Taste of Cornwall – the consortium of food producers

behind the food hall – said he was “proud” to be part project.

“Based on sales of £3.4m it is estimated the project will add around £2.2m to the income of Cornish farmers and producers and through the multiplier effect of trading within the local community this could add up to £8m a year to the Cornish economy because every £1 spent is worth £2.50 to the local economy,” he said.

Philip Buddell of the Save Truro campaign against the development said: “These proposals spell disaster for Truro, its people, businesses and everyone living nearby.”

The decision will now have to be rubber stamped by the Secretary of State before construction work can begin. The food hall could be open as early as next year.

‘BUONGIORNO’ FROM GINO – Celebrity chef Gino D’Acampo paid a surprise visit to Hertfordshire deli Buongiorno Italia last month to stock up on Italian specialities for a party at his home. The 2009 ‘I'm a Celebrity...’ winner and ITV cookery show regular bought Parma ham, Ventracina salami, spianata calabrese, pesto, olives and other products from the St Albans shop’s cured meats and antipasto range before taking time to pose for photos with the Buongiorno Italia team. Pictured (left to right) are Vincenzo De-Bellis, Gino D’Acampo, Kasia Alicka, shop owner Antonio Picciuto and Dario Zambetti.

If I'd known then what I know now...

been on small business courses since then and I make sure to sit down with our accountants regularly to keep an overview of the finances. It’s absolutely vital.

Ros Loweth Abbey Parks Farm Shop, Boston, Lincs The shop was busy from day one and two years later we had to extend it further. We're expanding again at the moment to accommodate a I was a farmer's wife and had When we opened in 1992 we were butchery counter. Looking back we been a teacher, so we had a massive unique in the local area. There wasn't probably should awakening when it anything like us around here and if have started out came to retail. We I'd realised, I would have made more You really benefit bigger, but until probably underof the fact. you open you don't from working as a priced some of We should have grasped the know how busy our products in moment and really blown our own family. Everybody is you are going to the beginning. We pulling in the same trumpet. be. The restaurant could have gone Part of the reason why we didn't direction and working has also progressed slightly higher was that we'd never done anything massively since we and still been very to the same ends. like running a farm shop before, so opened, so we now good value. didn't have lots of confidence. do weddings, outside catering and We quickly learned that if We had looked at a few farm regular evening events. We could you want to make a profit, you shops elsewhere, like Lower Sizergh have done this a lot earlier, but it's really have to get the business in Cumbria, which had given us better to evolve then invest a lot of fundamentals right. That meant we inspiration, but there was nothing to capital in something that might fail. had to get stuck into spreadsheets gauge ourselves against locally, so it We’ve been lucky in that our and do the number-crunching, a lot was hard to know if we were doing children Harry and Sophie have of which was pretty new to us. I've the right things.

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April 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 3

Kent shop shuts doors after local sourcing dispute Kent-based Taywell Ice Creams has been forced to close its farm shop near Goudhurst (pictured) after the local authority refused to amend planning permission for the shop.

Owner Alastair Jessel had applied to change the shop's planning status so it could source the bulk of its produce from suppliers in Sussex and Kent, but the application was rejected, despite a petition signed by 450 people.

The farm shop was given planning permission in 2005 on the basis it would source 85% of its produce from the fruit farm on which it was based. But Jessel has since sold the farm and moved the ice cream business to larger premises, in effect leaving a farm shop without a farm.

Planners rejected his proposals on the basis the shop would pose unfair competition to traders in the village and would not be able to guarantee its products were grown and made locally. “In a deep recession where empty shops litter the towns and countryside, it seems madness to force the closure of one that is still trading,” said Jessel.

joined the business after working in London and they've brought new ideas and skills. I think you really benefit from working as a family.

Everybody is pulling in the same direction and working to the same ends.

Ten years on and I'm still learning that you've got to keep an eye on everything all the time, whether that's staffing, the bottom line, product range or just making sure the loo is clean and tidy.

The amount of work that you need to put into a business like this was a shock compared to teaching, where you would get such nice holidays. With a farm shop, the business is with you all the time, even when you are on holiday. It's a massive undertaking and definitely not a lifestyle choice, but I really love what I do and wouldn't change a thing. It's that passion that makes the shop work.

Interview by PATRICK McGUIGAN

Available in 500ml *24 packs and 1000ml *12 packs. www.facebook.com/kingricebranoil info@ricebranproducts.co.uk

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Surprisingly good

fine food news New festival brings heat to the North

Deli of the Year victory boosts Arch House sales

By MICK WHITWORTH

SILLY CHILLIES: (L-R) National Trust events coordinator Alison Forbes, Hot Stuff Chilli’s Mark Deakin, mmm… owner Simone Clarkin and Northumberland County Council chairman George Todd get some practice in for The North East Chilli Festival

Newcastle deli mmm… and local producer Hot Stuff Chilli have teamed up with the National Trust to organise their region’s first chilli celebration.

Organisers said some of the UK’s most respected chilli producers have already signed up to The North East Chilli Festival, which will be held on July 7 and 8 at the Trust’s Seaton Delaval Hall in Northumberland.

Visitors to the event will be able to sample the world’s current

As entries open in the third Olives Et Al Deli of the Year competition, last year’s winners have revealed a sales hike of more than 30% since they lifted the trophy in September.

David Greenman, who runs Arch House Deli in Clifton with partner Debbie Atherton, said: “In the month we won Deli of the Year we recorded a 45% increase in sales and at least half was directly attributable to the award.”

Sales remained up by more than a third for the rest of 2011 and continued at this level throughout January. “Winning the award was key to this increase, through the extra publicity we gained, which brought new people through the door,” said Greenman, adding: “The good thing is that we have managed to keep them as customers.”

Nominations for this year’s Deli of the Year opened on March 24 via Olives Et Al’s website.

Shoppers can vote for their favourite stores online, in-store or by post. Over the last two years more than 20,000 votes have been submitted.

The 2012 competition is again being backed by FFD and our publisher, the Guild of Fine Food, which will host the trophy presentation at September’s Great Taste Awards dinner.

The winning store owners and the runners-up will win a trip to Spain’s Extramadura region, famous for deli foods including olives and Iberico ham.

Olives Et Al is also seeking support from other food producers to put together a package of speciality foods to be presented to the regional winners. www.olivesetal.co.uk

Debbie Atherton and David Greenman: sales up by more than a third

hottest specimen, the Trinidad Moruga Scorpion. There will also be a number of attractions for visitors less keen on chilli including live music, children’s activities and an international food marquee.

Hot Stuff Chilli owner Mark Deakin said: “Chilli festivals are held all over the UK, attracting thousands of visitors, and for a long time the North East has been missing out.” www.chillifest-ne.co.uk @chillifest_ne

Asda launches new deli format in Monks Cross, Yorkshire store

By PATRICK McGUIGAN

Asda has opened a new deli concept focusing on local sourcing at a store in York, in a move that takes it further into fine food retailers' territory.

The new Yorkshire Deli in the Monks Cross store showcases a range of locally sourced products including cheese from Shepherds Purse and the Wensleydale Creamery in Hawes, pies and scotch eggs from Bradford-based Stobarts and pies and quiches from Doncaster supplier Toppings.

The local deli was made a permanent fixture after a successful trial before Christmas and the move has increased the number of Yorkshire ranges at the supermarket by over 20%.

CJ Antal-Smith, Asda, category director for emerging markets, said:

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April 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 3

“When we tested this concept out last year we immediately realised the only issue was ensuring we could meet demand, which was phenomenal for a local trial like this.

“We’ve invested in special colleague training for the deli – local cheese is cut on the deli, for example. It’s a leap of faith for us but we’re a Yorkshire business ourselves and this feels a natural extension of our identity as a retailer.”

The company would not comment on whether further regional delis would be rolled out in other stores.

Asda has launched a number of new-concept counters in recent years, including several savoury bakery concessions run by Cornish pasty company Rowe's in Cornwall and a Polish deli concession under the Delicja brand.

Asda won’t confirm if the local deli format will roll out to other regions

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9/3/12 11:06:06

fine food news HEFF launches ‘trading desk’ to sell for small producers

By MICHAEL LANE

Food group Heart of England Fine Foods (HEFF) has launched a new service to boost its producermembers’ sales after pulling out of its Heart Distribution partnership with A F Blakemore last autumn.

Blakemore, a major regional distributor and Spar wholesaler, sells and delivers a wide range of products from small to medium sized food producers in the West Midlands under the Heart banner.

HEFF communications and events manager Jon May said the food group ended its links with Heart Distribution in August because Blakemore wanted to halve the marketing commission it paid to HEFF. This would have left HEFF struggling financially, he told FFD, so it set up its new Trading Desk service as a one-stop shop for products from HEFF members.

Applications for share of £60m grants close soon

By MICHAEL LANE

Rural food producers in England looking to expand their businesses have until the end of this month to apply for up to £1 million in grant funding from a £60 million scheme, which was launched by Defra last month.

The Rural Economy Grant Scheme (REGS) will consider applications from businesses looking to boost production capacity or develop new products by investing

A spokeswoman for Heart Distribution said: “We regret that we failed to reach a satisfactory agreement with HEFF that met its requirements.”

She added that the purpose of Heart Distribution remains to support producers, “no matter how small”, rather than making a profit.

Under its new scheme, HEFF will handle sales orders and invoicing on behalf of producers for 8% commission, but producers will organise delivery direct to customers.

“We had to look at something that would work for all of our members and develop something that would mean we could become more sustainable,” said May, who will also soon be taking over HEFF’s supply chain affairs in an internal reshuffle.

“Like all food groups we have

in new equipment or building new premises.

Those looking to increase export sales or develop shared distribution operations will also be eligible to apply to the REGS – part of a £100 million investment in the Rural Development Programme for England Under the scheme, Defra will provide up to 40% of funding for a project and the business must provide the remaining 60%. The maximum grant is £1m while the minimum is £25,000.

Outline applications must be made by April 30, after which firms will be selected for a second detailed application stage. Among the other business types who can apply are farmers, forestry contractors and local authorities. www.rdpenetwork.defra.gov.uk

had a reduction in funding,” he added.

May said HEFF hoped that the Trading Desk – which will actively market products to the retail and foodservice trades – will benefit the smaller producers in the region.

Suppliers who sign up to the service will remain responsible for setting their own prices and minimum order quantities.

May added that the next stages of the scheme, which already represents 60 producers, would be developing specific arms for supplying London and assisting with exports.

He stressed many of HEFF’s members had worked successfully with Heart Distribution, which has 138 producers on its books, and would continue to do so.

May: The new model will make HEFF more sustainable

www.heff.co.uk www.heartdistribution.com

Chef on the Run trading despite owner’s illness Preserves maker Chef on the Run Foods says it remains firmly in business despite suspending its online shop while co-owner Mike Carnell awaits a major operation.

The company, a multiple award winner in the Great Taste and True Taste award schemes, is run by Carnell and his wife Rachel from their Old Stables tea rooms in Hay-onWye. Mike Carnell, who has been suffering from a serious bone-wasting condition affecting his leg, has just won a battle with health authorities to have a complex operation that

could save the limb from amputation.

He told FFD: “I’m still producing, although not in such big quantities, and I’m trying to build up my stocks so Rachel can carry on supplying when I go into hospital.

“We’ve stopped selling online for now, and unfortunately people have started saying that we’ve ceased trading, which isn’t good for business!”

Rachel Carnell has taken over the running of the Old Stables until her husband returns from his operation.

Chef on the Run’s preserves and pickles have won Great Taste Awards every year since 2004.

Ludwell Stores takes award for best rural shop Phil and Jo James (pictured) now officially run the nation’s favourite village shop and post office, after winning their category in the Countryside Alliance Awards.

Judges were impressed by the way that Ludwell Stores, near Shaftesbury in Dorset, immersed itself in the local community. The owners “do it all” by offering dry cleaning, clothing

repairs, books by local authors, paintings by local artists, a heating oil buying group and a Post Office alongside an already impressive village shop and deli offer.

The Local Food Award went to Suffolk Food Hall (see our Outdoor Dining feature, page 35) and the runner-up was Guild of Fine Food member Foxbury Farm Shop in Oxfordshire. www.ludwellstores.co.uk

Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012

11

12

April 2012 路 Vol.13 Issue 3

fine food news new openings

Opening or expanding a shop? Email details to editorial@finefoodworld.co.uk

Herefordshire farm shop to revive community spirit

what’s in store l The shop stocks gluten-free products from Hale and Hearty and Rude Health, but is still looking for a good supplier of gluten-free bread.

l Other key products include: Dairy House yoghurts, Mr Moyden's cheese, Maynards ham and meat from WJ George in Talgarth, plus home-made ready-meals, pies and cakes.

l The shop has parking for 18 cars and is on the main route between Brecon and Hereford.

In the long term, it aims to set up a butchery counter, which will sell its own organic meat from Stowe Farm.

l Church Barn Farm Shop is a member of Heart of England Fine Foods and benefited from the organisation’s Savour the Flavour scheme, receiving free retail display equipment.

By PATRICK McGUIGAN

A newly opened farm shop in the village of Whitney-on-Wye hopes to become a meeting point for the local community and reduce the need for them to drive long distances to the nearest supermarket.

Housed in a refurbished barn with views of the Herefordshire countryside, Church Barn Farm Shop has been set up by Ceri Price

with support from her father-inlaw, organic farmer Lewis Price. The shop stocks beef, pork, vegetables and dairy products from the farm, plus a wide range of locally sourced products. The barn also contains a 20-seater café.

“We want to bring back the heart of the community to Whitneyon-Wye, which is a lovely village but is split by main road and doesn't

have any shops of its own apart from a garage,” said former teacher Price.

“Even the mobile library that used to stop at the village has gone.”

“We want this to be a community space where people can come and chat with each other.

I grew up in the village and I've already met people I didn't know lived here in the first few weeks of opening. I would love to have

a library for children to come and spend some time so that families can have an experience at Church Barn and not simply rush in for shopping.”

With the nearest supermarket in Hay-on-Wye six miles away, Price also hopes the shop will reduce people's petrol bills. “We're offering free delivery in the village to make it even more convenient.” www.churchbarnfarmshop.co.uk

The Garden Store Warwick

Puxton Park

previously worked in managerial roles for Majestic, and his brother Matthew (left), who worked frontof-house in the Rocco Forte hotel group’s restaurants.

“Given our working backgrounds, we are very aware of how strongly good customer service and product knowledge are appreciated by customers,” said Paul Dutson.

The garden centre chain has opened a new farm shop at its Charlecote unit in Warwick, specialising in locally sourced food.

Let’s Eat Food Store aims to source produce from Warwickshire and surrounding counties, such as meat from local farms within a 20 mile radius. “We believe in supporting the British economy and feel that all food should be sourced from local farmers and producers,” said marketing manager Darren Racher.

The shop will also host regular tastings and cookery demonstrations to promote regional produce.

The Garden Store Group operates seven stores across the Midlands, two of which contain Let's Eat Restaurants.

www.dutsons.co.uk

www.thegardenstore.ltd.uk

North Somerset

Puxton Park has revealed plans, backed by Puxton Parish Council, to build a £2m extension to its farm shop and restaurant. The 2,000 square metre development will house a new garden centre, gift shop and larger restaurant.

The new building’s roof will also feature solar panels and rain water harvesting facilities. If the application is approved by North Somerset Council, work will begin on the scheme in the autumn with completion expected next year.

“After a successful first five years, we are reinvesting at Puxton Park,” said MD Alistair Mead. www.puxton.co.uk

Dutsons Stockport

Two brothers are putting their experience working for a wine merchant and a hotel group to good use in their new deli and 40-seater café-restaurant in Marple Bridge, Stockport.

Dutsons, which opens this month, is the brainchild of Paul Dutson (pictured right), who

Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012

13

fine food news Chris Dee in Booths’ experimental supermarket-cum-food hall at MediaCityUK – the first of 10 planned new stores

Interview

Small producers love Booths but for delis and farm shops in the North West it’s as big a threat as Waitrose. New chief operating officer Chris Dee talks to MICK WHITWORTH about the upscale multiple’s expansion plans – and why supermarkets are more ‘democratic’ than speciality stores.

Putting a premium on ‘democratic’ shopping I

’ve just stepped into a lift in the Holiday Inn in MediaCityUK, the new “hub for the creative and digital sectors” in Salford, soon be populated by thousands of BBC and ITV staffers.

Tomorrow I’ll meet Chris Dee, new chief operating officer of Booths, at the regional chain’s swanky two-floor, 23,000 sq ft store next door, which was opened last autumn specifically to service the influx of high-maintenance luvvies in this regenerated patch of Greater Manchester.

I’ve been doing a bit of preinterview prep, so I’m clutching a Booths carrier bag – as are the other two occupants of the lift.

“You could spend a fortune in that shop, couldn’t you?” says one young business woman.

“Yeah, it’s like Waitrose but

14

April 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 3

worse,” I agree, just to be polite.

“Only with an extra 20% margin on top,” she adds.

The next day, during a rapid-fire interview with the friendly but timepressed Dee, I repeat this tale, just to see how he reacts. After all, it’s become a cliché to describe Booths as “the Waitrose of the north”.

“Right…” he nods slowly, giving a pursed-lip smile.

“Is it just a matter of perception?”

“Definitely just perception,” he says. “We price-check just like everyone else, and I’m very satisfied that we’re competitive.”

Then he adds: “Inherently, if you put together a range of products that people can’t resist, they’re going to spend more money.”

Not that price is the top priority

anyway for shoppers at MediaCityUK, a one-off store that Dee says has “always been a bit of an experiment”.

Slick and spacious, clad in smoked glass and steel, it’s part supermarket, part food hall, and the company’s only city-centre unit to date.

With their strong speciality food offer, Booths stores make unwelcome neighbours for delis. This beefed up format would give bigger food halls a run for their money too. The cheese counter features a number of unpasteurised varieties from Neal’s Yard – not a supplier you associate with northern supermarkets. The hot food-to-go includes not just chicken and gammon but a breakfast offer and “contemporary” lunch options such as noodles and stews. The instore floristry has been moved away

from the “garage forecourt” look.

The wine and beers section is vast.

Booth’s has 28 stores in a patch from Penrith in Cumbria to Knutsford in Cheshire, with Ripon in North Yorkshire its most easterly outpost.

Its typical customer is “older, more affluent” and, given the store locations, often more rural. And against Dee’s expectations, these shoppers have not stopped spending in the downturn. “I'm fascinated by how it has held up. It hasn’t been killed dead, as people were predicting two or three years ago. A few areas have been hit, like organics. But people are still willing to spend money on things that taste great.”

Opening the MediaCityUK store last October – when, for a PR stunt, he paraded an Aberdeen Angus bull

‘Our buyers are good at wearing two hats’

past the new BBC North building – chairman Edwin Booth described his fifth-generation family-owned firm as “the acceptable face of supermarkets, deeply committed to giving producers a fair price” and sourcing from “small scale producers who would normally avoid supplying the supermarkets”.

Like Waitrose when it was confined to the South East, Booths is unknown in swathes of the UK. But it has been ratcheting up its national PR activity.

Edwin Booth was recently subject to a lengthy Observer profile by Jay Rayner (‘Booths – the honest supermarket’) and his support for Slow Food UK has helped win over the foodie media.

Booths sponsors Slow Food’s Ark of Taste project and provides an outlet for ‘forgotten foods’ like Morecambe Bay shrimps and Lyth Valley damsons.

Perhaps Booths needs this higher profile to support its recently announced expansion. With sales around £270 million, it remains a minnow among multiples, but last summer it refinanced its debt to help it build 10 stores over the next five or six years, of which MediaCityUK was the first. “In the supermarket world that’s relatively modest,” says Dee, “but for us it’s quite a big change.”

Dee is a 17-year Booths veteran.

Born in York, he worked in the wine trade then set up his own small chain of wine shops in Bradford and Leeds

before selling to Oddbins. Given the subsequent collapse of high street offlicences, he got out at the right time.

“To compete nowadays you need a relatively large store, a relatively large range and parking for five or six cars. That works in a warehouse environment like Majestic. In a high street, people are never going to buy more than two or three bottles because they can’t carry them.”

Dee joined Booths as a wine buyer, then criss-crossed the business, eventually becoming trading director.

The chief operating officer post is a new one for a company that has previously admitted non-family directors only in finance roles.

Booths has never liked being viewed as “just another supermarket”, although Dee has no qualms about the word. “On one level people prefer shopping in supermarkets. It’s quite democratic, it’s self-service, it’s not exclusive, you never feel you can’t walk in.

With some specialist shops, it can be difficult to get people through the door. They feel their lack of knowledge is a barrier.”

Booth’s tries to “mix the two”, he says: combining deli-quality wine, meat and cheese with everyday groceries. Its tie-up with artisan cheese specialist Neal’s Yard, now being extended across more stores,

includes training staff in product knowledge. “We’ve worked closely with them to improve that ‘golden triangle’ between product, customer and staff,” says Dee. Booths’ average store size is 18,000 sq ft and Dee says it has no intention of following the majors into convenience formats, where it might rub up against high street delis. “Our preferred size is either 20-25,000 sq ft, so we can fit in a full suite of products, or 10,000 sq ft, which is more of a neighbourhood format and easier in terms of planning. We don’t think we can get the full Booths offer into a 3,000 sq ft shop.”

While the small producer community will view Booths’ growth as an opportunity, independent delis in its target towns will be less enthusiastic. Does Dee feel similarly unnerved by Waitrose’s expansion?

He laughs. “Look, we’ve got Sainsbury, Morrisons, Asda, Tesco, Marks & Spencer, Aldi, Lidl, the Co-op – and Waitrose. They are just another competitor.”

Currently, Booths and Waitrose step on each other’s toes in just two locations. But Dee adds: “They have made very clear their intention to expand in the north. What’s important to us is that we stick to our knitting – and continue improving.” www.booths.co.uk

As Waitrose has expanded, suppliers report that its once gentlemanly approach to buying has shifted steadily towards the more ruthless tactics of the Big Four. So as Booths extends its estate over the next few years will it too have to harden its stance?

“If anything, we’re trying to go the other way,” says Chris Dee, although he adds that it’s “horses for courses”.

“People like us and Waitrose face a dilemma, in that when we sit down with a Procter & Gamble or a Nestlé we are very small players – the opposite of how most people think of supermarkets and suppliers.

“In those circumstances we have to assert ourselves in ways more appropriate to a supermarket and which might not look that different to Asda or Tesco.

“If you’re dealing with a small supplier that is only been selling in farmers’ markets or a few delis, it’s the other way round. You have to nurture those micro-businesses and enable them to deliver consistent standards.

“It needs a lot of care and attention, a lot of relationshipbuilding.

“Our buyers are very good at wearing those two hats. The danger – and this may have happened to others – is that you forget that and it could mean you lose some of those smaller suppliers.”

Dee says it’s part of his role to “acknowledge that our buyers need to spend time on these things”.

your attitude ❛is,If‘We’re a big

supermarket and we are going to throw weight around’, that comes across

❜

“It’s not about scale. It’s about attitude. If your attitude is, ‘We’re a big supermarket and we are going to throw our weight around’, that comes across.”

He adds: “I am not saying that we don’t get it wrong sometimes, but we take it seriously if we do.”

It’s “part of the DNA of Booths” to seek out small, quality suppliers, Dee says, and where other supermarkets have standalone regional buying teams creating gondola-end displays of local produce, at Booth’s it’s all handled by the same buyers.

“I think Asda have done a good job from a regional food-sourcing perspective. But for us, it’s all marbled in. It’s not the cream on the cake, it’s part of the cake itself. ” Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012

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April 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 3

cheesewire

news & views from the cheese counter

Ex Burt’s boss Glynn buys flavoured cheese producer

By PATRICK McGUIGAN

The former MD of Burt's Chips, who left after a failed management buyout attempt, has acquired flavoured cheese specialist Windyridge Cheese in Somerset.

Melvin Glynn resigned from Burt's Chips last December after just a year in the job when his MBO bid was rejected by shareholders.

“I wanted to take the company into a rapid investment growth plan and the current shareholders didn't want that. Hence, I and several other senior management left the company,” he said.

The acquisition of Wincantonbased Windyridge, which specialises in handmade blended cheeses with

additives such as chilli, garlic and apricot, marks a return to the dairy sector for Glynn, who was previously MD of Ilchester Cheese.

“The business is very much focussed on the Somerset and Dorset areas, so we want to try to expand into other regions,” said Glynn. “We want to steer away from the supermarkets and focus on delis and farm shops.”

The company was founded in 2002 by Richard Harvey and Melanie Smith, who have now left the business. To make the products, Windyridge buys in cheese such as block cheddar, red Leicester and double Gloucester, which is grated, mixed with other ingredients and then

“reassembled” by pressing in moulds.

“We're a small team of seven people and everything is done by hand, which means we can achieve a much nicer texture and don't damage the components when we add them, compared to big automated manufacturers,” said Glynn. “We want to capitalise on the artisan way our cheese is produced. Cheese purists might be a bit scornful of flavoured cheeses, but you can't detract from the fact that the public loves them and they sell really well.”

Burt's chairman David Nairn is acting MD at the company while it searches for a successor to Glynn.

Le Grand Fromage Bob Farrand

Selling cheese is an art and there are few things guaranteed to warm the cockles of a cheese lover’s heart more than the sight and sound of a good deli or farm shop owner practising their skills in front of a captivated audience of Saturday shoppers.

It never happens in supermarkets – staff don’t know where to begin. And, much of the

By MICHAEL LANE

Goats’ milk specialist Fielding Cottage is looking to ramp up production and distribution of its cheese as well as developing a third Brie-style cheese for launch this Summer.

www.windyridgecheese.co.uk

Back at the Beeb: This year’s World Cheese Awards will again run alongside the UK’s largest consumer food exhibition, the BBC Good Food Show at the National Exhibition Centre in Birmingham (November 28-December 2).

Judging will take place on the opening day of the show in a dedicated 1,000 sq m area with over 3,000 entries expected. New features for 2012 include an improved theatre space and the addition of a World Cheese Deli.

time, wholesalers lack the depth of knowledge about ripeness, balance of flavour, provenance and the history attached to each cheese that retailers need.

To gain this knowledge, good cheesemongers go looking for it and once they find it, they perfect their counter technique until it’s as much second nature as driving a car or opening a bottle of good claret.

Sadly, this depth of commitment and skill is rarely recognised.

Veteran Le Gruyère cheese marketeer Maurice Johnson and, my son and co-director at the Guild of Fine Food, John Farrand, plan to change this in 2012. Artisan cheese-

Fielding Cottage gears up to expand

makers are applauded at cheese competitions the length and breadth of the country, so why not specialist retailers?

At this year’s World Cheese Awards, we aim to place cheese retailing centre stage – quite literally. Three of the country’s top performers will fight it out on stage at the NEC to find the best all-round cheesemonger. They will be judged on display, planning a cheeseboard and explaining with style and panache what makes every cheese special.

The three finalists will spend the morning judging some of the 3,000 cheeses from around

Sam Steggles, who founded the Norfolk-based business two years ago with 10 goats, has recently installed a new milking parlour allowing him to milk around 80 goats in an hour.

Steggles told FFD that he is now building a new 1,050 sq ft cheese room and has ordered a 1,000 litre cheese vat in preparation for increased production of Fielding Cottage’s soft Ellingham and waxed Norfolk Mardler (pictured above) varieties as well as a third cheese currently in development.

“Ellingham is like a feta, Mardler is like a Caerphilly and we are now looking for something Brie-like,” he said. “I think at the end of May or June we would be able to get it out there.”

He added that he is now looking to sell his products beyond East Anglia and is currently in discussion with distributors.

Fielding Cottage currently produces 30-40kg of Ellingham per week and 60kg of Mardler, some of which goes to Marco Pierre White’s Lifeboat Inn in Thornham. www.fieldingcottage.co.uk

the world entered into the 2012 Awards and after enjoying a lunch in the company of fellow judges, they’ll take the stage themselves in the WCA theatre displaying their individual skill, knowledge and anecdotes to a panel of judges comprising some of the most influential cheese people from around the world.

If you’re proud of what you do in store and think you’re good enough, give it a go.

You can find more information and entry details on page 22.

FFD publisher Bob Farrand is chairman of the UK Cheese Guild

Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012

17

cheesewire Denhay owner says Helveticus is too sweet for starters

By PATRICK McGUIGAN

The traditional savoury flavour of cheddar is under threat from a new generation of ultra-sweet cheeses that offer instant gratification but lack the length and complexity of the original cheese.

That‘s the view of George Streatfeild, owner of farmhouse cheddar-maker Denhay. He said that cheddars are increasingly being made with the Helveticus starter culture, which is usually found in Comté and Gruyère and gives cheese a strong sweet flavour at the expense of traditional savoury notes.

“In the past 15 years almost every factory-made cheese has begun using starters containing Helveticus and it‘s starting to creep into some farmhouse cheeses,” he said. “It gives an overwhelming sweetness that has proved popular.

That sweet flavour is easy and appealing but I think it’s quite sickly.

Yes, you get instant hit of flavour, but that’s it. Cheddar should have layers of complex savoury flavours as well as sweetness.”

This complexity comes from

using different mixed strain starter cultures, but also from the type of rennet that is used and the way the curds are hand turned or ‘cheddared‘, said Streatfeild, who is considering launching a campaign, backed by tastings, to educate consumers on what traditional cheddar should taste like. “We have to protect proper farmhouse cheddar going forward,” he said.

Mary Quicke, MD of Quickes Traditional, is also concerned about the increasing sweetness of cheddar. “[Helveticus] typically gives very sweet flavours and covers up a multitude of sins,” she said.

“The supermarkets have told their cheesemakers that they have to use it and so cheddar has started to become this sweet thing that is accessible and easy.”

“A lot of the American clothbound cheeses are also now made with Helveticus. It’s like when those big Australian red wines hit the market; everyone really liked them at first, but they are missing complexity.” www.denhay.co.uk

Streatfeild says cheddar should have ‘complex savoury flavours’

Martin Moyden expands range with Caerphilly type

WELSH SHOWCASE: Shoppers at John Lewis' Foodhall on Oxford Street were treated to free tutored tastings of Welsh cheese and beer last month as part of a series of foodie events across London to celebrate St David's Day. The cheeses sampled at John Lewis were all Welsh True Taste award winners such as Gorwydd Caerphilly, Duchy Hafod cheddar, Perl Wen and Camarthenshire blue goats‘ cheese. The cheese was paired with Brains beers.

Other events organised under the Welsh Government’s Wales The True Taste banner included a Welsh Food Market on the South Bank of the Thames, plus tasting events at Waitrose stores and Partridges.

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April 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 3

Mr Moyden's Handmade Cheese has launched a new unpasteurised Caerphilly-style cheese and is working on several other new products, after increasing capacity at its unit at the Shropshire Food Enterprise Centre.

The new cheese is called Caer Caradoc after a nearby hill, where the cows that provide the milk graze, and came about by chance. “We were making a batch of our Wrekin White cheese and the pump broke so we couldn't scald the curds,” said Martin Moyden, who runs the business with his wife Beth. “I looked up an old recipe I have for Caerphilly and decided to carry on with it. We were really pleased with the results. The cheese is crumbly and open with a nice lemony flavour.”

The product is already on sale in local hotel restaurants, including Hadley Park where it is served as part of a complete Mr Moyden's cheeeseboard.

Since moving to its new premises a year ago, Mr Moyden's has doubled output from six to 12 tonnes, and is now looking to increase this even further after installing a new 1,000 litre vat and taking on a full-time member of staff.

Moyden has also launched a new range of butters and is close

to perfecting a new brie with the working title 'Shrewsbrie' after the nearby town. He is also working on a new washed rind cheese.

The company's existing range of unpasteurised cows' milk cheeses include Blue Wrekin, White Wrekin, Newport and smoked Newport 1665.

Originally a dairy farmer, Moyden set up the cheese business in a converted cowshed at his family farm in 2005, but gave up farming to concentrate solely on cheese-making last year when the business moved. www.mrmoyden.com

01892 838999 www.rowcliffe.co.uk

Anthony Rowcliffe and Son Are delighted to be launching FRESH OLIVES from Castellino.

For your multideck chiller we now have a range of fresh olives in retail tubs including: Crushed green olives marinated in herbs, green olives stuffed with garlic cloves, black Nostrane olives with fennel, green olives stuffed with peppers, green olives stuffed with tomato, sun-dried tomatoes, quartered artichokes and mixed antipasto.

We also have convenient “pick up” bags of fresh olives coated in oil and herbs for lunch or a snack. The varieties include crushed green olives, pitted black olives, green olives stuffed with peppers, green olives stuffed with garlic cloves, green olives stuffed with almonds and sun-dried tomatoes. ...and of course they are all of the quality you would expect from Castellino – our exclusive Italian olive producer.

WORLD CHEESE AWARDS CHAMPION 2010 Supreme Champion Bath & West 2010

Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012

19

cheesewire

Seriously Scottish Profile

Iain Mellis was a ‘dreadful cheesemaker’, he tells PATRICK McGUIGAN, before he turned his hand to retail and went on to become Scotland’s best known cheesemonger

I

ain Mellis looks rather stern in the photo (above) that is emailed to me just before I interview him.

But when I speak to Scotland's best known cheesemonger, he turns out to be much more personable than his portrait would suggest, chatting in a self-deprecating way about how he has built up his business.

IJ Mellis was launched in 1993 and today has six shops in Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen and St Andrews with a turnover of £1.8m. Mellis’s cheese career stretches back to 1979 when he left school and became a lab technician working for the North of Scotland Milk Marketing Board in Inverness. From there he ended up as a cheese-maker producing cheddar all over Scotland, before making regional cheeses for Joseph Heler in Cheshire.

“I think you need to be quite an insular person with an eye for detail to make good cheese,” he says. “I was a dreadful cheese-maker, I must say. I would end up drifting away and

20

April 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 3

area managers and HR departments, talking. I would lose concentration so we have to do it all ourselves,” he and make howling mistakes. I really explains. “My wife Karen does most enjoyed it, but I was never going to of it, but it's hard to be hands on be a great cheese-maker.” because the shops are spread out and Mellis flirted with the idea of we now employ 35-40 people. opening a restaurant and becoming “When we opened the sixth a chef but “my ambition had shop we realised we were spreading overreached my talent”, he admits. ourselves a little bit thinly, but then Instead, he took inspiration from the recession came and there wasn't the fromageries he had visited in the confidence to expand further, France, and from British retailers such so it keeps us in that half way as Neal’s Yard in London and The ground where we're not quite large Cheese Shop in Chester, and opened enough to warrant having middle his first shop in Edinburgh's Victoria management.”

Street with his wife Karen.

One upside of being a larger “All our shops have that oldoperation is improved stock control. fashioned way of trading as Product can be moved between traditional grocers. I was influenced stores and the wholesale operation by old pictures of Sainsbury's shops (which accounts for 25% of the at the turn of the century – the business) when required to help excitement of big piles of cheese and reduce wastage. wheels upon The company wheels that All our shops have that is also able to are cut open. It old-fashioned way of order pallets of was something that people had trading. I was influenced cheese direct from Spain, France, experienced in by pictures from the Britain decades turn of the century – the Italy and Ireland where suppliers ago before it all consolidate orders went pre-packed excitement of big piles for them, reducing and into fridges.” of cheese costs. CheeseThe move into maker Cooleeney does this for retail wasn't a huge leap for Mellis Mellis in Ireland, while in France the – both his parents had worked in company has a consolidator at Rungis shops, so there was a lot of family market that puts orders together. support in the early stages. As the Around 25-30% of the shops’ business has grown so have the sales are Continental cheeses, with challenges and the opportunities.

Gorgonzola Dolce and Brie de “We're not big enough to employ

❛

❜

Meaux particularly popular, while the rest comes from British and Irish producers. Scottish cheese accounts for around 20% of sales and Mellis recommends the washed rind Criffel from Loch Arthur, Isle of Mull cheddar and the new Corra Linn Manchegostyle cheese from HJ Errington as the country's current stand-out cheeses.

Quality has improved in recent years, he says, with Scottish producers now following in the footsteps of the French by devoting more attention to starter cultures and mould development. These technical improvements are good news when it comes to maturing cheeses. IJ Mellis has six maturing rooms at its warehouse in Edinburgh and works closely with cheese-makers to ensure it gets cheeses at the right time and made in the right way for maturation.

“It's particularly important for softer cheeses. Not only do they have to be well made, but they can easily be ruined by people not handling them correctly with the wrong temperature or humidity,” says Mellis.

“Everyone has to be attuned to that and it's important that we give information back to the cheese-maker about how the cheeses are maturing and tasting.

“I'm helped by the fact that I understand a lot of the science behind it from my time as a cheesemaker, but it's also a case of learning from your mistakes.” www.mellischeese.co.uk

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Improve your production rates and profitability by purchasing a Riggs Autopack filling machine.

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Products manufactured using our equipment include • Jam, Honey and Preserves • Chutney • Mustard • Pickles • Relish • Mayonnaise • Sauces • Dips • Dressings

t: 01282 440040 f: 01282 440041 e: info@autopack.co.uk www.autopack.co.uk

Make the most of your member benefits with discounted card processing rates through Streamline For discounted card processing rates for members of the Guild of Fine Food call us today on 0800 015 3301 quoting code GFF0111A or visit us at streamline.com Streamline is a service provided by Worldpay (UK) Limited on behalf of National Westminster Bank Plc. Registered in England No. 07316500. Registered Office: 55 Mansell Street, London E1 8AN. Authorised and regulated as a Payment Institution by the Financial Services Authority 530923. National Westminster Bank Plc. Registered in England No. 929027. Registered Office: 135 Bishopsgate, London EC2M 3UR. Authorised and regulated by the Financial Services Authority 121878.

Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012 RED_GFFA5v2.indd 1

21

16/09/2011 15:05

Receive up to £50 and a full promotion kit and you could be crowned Britain’s Best Cheese Counter 2012 Register for this promotion today and we will send you: 1. A high quality counter-top sampling tray with plates and cocktail sticks 2. Recipe leaflets, product information sheets and other branded POS 3. A cash allowance of £30 or £50 to cover the cost of Le Gruyère AOC cheese for sampling

How does the promotion work?

• S ign-up with us and commit to doing the promotion for a minimum of two days • Select which Le Gruyère AOC you sample to customers – Classic or Reserve. You order the stock from your normal supplier • Launch and publicise your promotion • Take two photographs of your promotion – a shot of the entire counter and a close up of the promotion kit in use • The Guild of Fine Food will send you a short form to complete and send back with your photographs. This is your chance to sell yourself and your cheese counter to our judges • We will send you a cheque for £30 if you do not submit photographs or £50 if you do

How does the Best Cheese Counter competition work?

You can sign up for the 2012 self-supervised Le Gruyère AOC in-store cheese promotion and receive a cash payment of up to £50. Take part and you will be automatically entered for Britain’s Best Cheese Counter competition, which will involve a live judging finale at this year’s World Cheese Awards taking place at BBC Good Food Show at the NEC.

• O ur judging panel will short-list entries from the forms and photographs submitted • A judge will visit all short-listed shops and mystery shop to evaluate the counter, knowledge of staff and, of course, the cheese offer • The successful finalists will then be invited to the World Cheese Awards 2012 to present and explain in person their favourite cheeseboard ensuring, of course, that Le Gruyère AOC cheese is at the heart of it • This is your chance to demonstrate that you can design and sell the perfect cheeseboard in front of our panel of judges and a live audience at the BBC Good Food Show at the NEC

How do I apply?

The promotion will take place during May - July 2012.

Contact julie.coates@finefoodworld.co.uk or call her on 01963 824464 to sign up. Not only could you be walking away with the title Britain’s Best Cheese Counter but you will be treated to an all-expenses paid trip to Le Gruyère, Switzerland to enjoy the Swiss cheese-making experience for yourself.

www.gruyere.com Cheeses from Switzerland.

Switzerland. Naturally.

www.switzerland-cheese.com

A promotional feature on behalf of Le Gruyère AOC

Me and my cheese counter

Growth doesn’t just result from stocking good cheese, it’s more a matter of creating an all round shopping experience. “We send our people to be trained properly and organised a field trip for them to see Poacher being made,” she says. “It gives them the confidence to enter into conversations about individual cheeses.

“We always promote a cheese of the week or month, which is not necessarily new. It may just be one we’ve tasted that’s eating well at the philosophy, to the extent she has moment. And tasters – you’ve always dropped more than a couple of got to have them. With some of the producers who are not prepared to larger, vintage hard cheeses you don’t do it her way. “Buying whole wheels need to give too much away to sell a of large Continental cheeses gives us piece that delivers a good margin.” much better margin and big chunks Georgie says Le Gruyère AOC’s look more tempting in the counter,” Helen Daish is she says. really helpful The range still with promotions. favours the Brits.

“She even goes The split is roughly out with Claire 60/40 but the visiting delis to shop is committed help her sign up to a ’within 50 new wholesale food miles’ policy customers, wherever it stacks and right now up in terms of • Tyrrells crisps she’s helping sales. “Lincolnshire (we sell by the me source a Blue, Berkswell, lorry load) new Cave Aged Sparkenhoe, four • Fig Cakes Reserve Le Stiltons (because • Fig Balls Gruyère.” of where we are) • Date and fig When and of course walnut cake introducing a Lincolnshire • Quince jelly with new cheese to Poacher – damson and fig the counter they particularly the • Chilli jam look to negotiate vintage, which is • Wine a tasting one of our top allowance if sellers. possible and it needs to have a good “Over the last year or so, we’ve story, or a “reason to stock in our introduced cheeses as diverse as locality”. World Cheese Awards Fourme d’Ambert, Charles Martell’s winners like the current World sheeps’ milk Nuns of Caen and the Champion, Fromagerie Agour's Ossau cracking Rouzaire Brie de Meaux, all Iraty, at one year maturity, flew out of of which are earning their keep.“

We talk to Georgie Mason of Gonalston Farm Shop, Britain's Best Cheese Shop 2011 It quickly becomes clear when talking with Nottinghamshire farm shop owner Georgie Mason that her cheese counter is the product of a number of talents, although it’s doubtful a single cheese gets stocked without her noticing – or tasting.

“Roger Smith, who is a butcher by trade, is now in overall charge of fresh food,” she explains. “He is responsible for our fish, deli and butchery counters. But Lesley Yates is deli supervisor so she’s also involved in the planning and operation. 95% of our cheese is sourced through our associate chilled wholesale business, Mason & Lee. This is the domain of Claire Colman and she tends to come up with most of the new ideas.”

Unusually for a genuinely out-in-the-sticks farm shop, Gonalston’s selection is as eclectic as it is international. The people in and around Southwell love their cheese.

“We stock anything between 80 and 100 depending on time of year and bring in half a pallet of real artisan farmhouse French varieties directly from Rungis every two weeks,” she says. These she describes as like “sweeties in a sweet shop – other delis see them and immediately want to stock them.”

Sourcing direct from cheesemakers looms large in Georgie’s

What Georgie merchandises close to her cheese counter:

the door at Christmas.

The Gonalston team jointly merchandise complementary products during tastings – the most successful over the past few months was matching Tracklements' fig relish with a goats’ milk cheese.

The 5m long chiller counter displays 3m of cheese – run of the mill varieties to the left and the pricey stuff firmly in front of the service point.

Georgie appreciates the counter is always open to scrutiny and says her team are sticklers for keeping it looking clean and fresh. On busy Saturdays, a couple of deli-trained colleagues support the two regular servers by trimming and re-packing.

“We take everything out once a week for a full clean and often change the cheeses featured in the hot spot. It helps maintain a steady turnover of product which in turn helps us keep quality as we want it.”

The moment each cheese arrives in store, it’s logged into a date diary on the computer. “Each cheese starts with a green code, which means it’s on maximum display life,” she says.”As it’s display life shortens, it progresses to orange, which tells us we need to sell it quick.”

This rarely results in the need for price reductions as a little extra tasting normally shifts what’s left.

When pressed on her own particular favourite, she’s in little doubt. “Montgomery cheddar: I love it and really thought it would outsell Poacher. Sadly, it doesn’t,” she says.

“Perhaps it’s a local thing but that’s what shops like ours are all about.” www.gruyere.com

Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012

23

The possibilities are endless...

Dessert sauce made with Belgian chocolate, fresh cream and dairy butter.

Enjoy gently warmed or straight from the jar.

Fantastic over ice cream, profiteroles, pancakes or as a dipping sauce for chunks of fresh fruit Tel: 01697 345974 Email: info@sundae-best.co.uk

The Hive is situated along the harbour side and river bank of the beautiful town of Aberaeron. Featuring a cosy bar, bright and sunny conservatory, elegant restaurant and open air courtyard, the Hive looks forward to welcoming you whether it be for a quick cup of Fairtrade coffee or tea and a cake, a cold refreshing beer, a more leisurely lunch with a bottle of our carefully selected wine, a more formal dinner with friends, or one of our award winning, homemade Honey Ice Creams as you wander along the seafront to admire our town. We always strive to use the freshest ingredients and wherever possible produce from the surrounding area.

Our fish is supplied from our own fishmongers, “Fish at the Hive” which is also open to the public.

Our Winter opening times are: Monday and Tuesday Closed Wednesday: 9-late Thursday:

9-late

Friday:

9-late

Saturday:

9-late

Sunday:

9-3

Lunch

12-2.30

Dinner

6.30-9

The Hive, Cadwgan Place, Aberaeron, Ceredigion SA4 60BU Tel 01545 570445 Email: info@thehiveaberaeron.com www.thehiveaberaeron.com

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April 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 3

product update

ice cream

Freezer fillers

Froberry, the Irish frozen yoghurt, is now available to retailers in the UK through Oakland International and 3663. Froberry was established in 2010 and has been supplying outlets across Ireland for the past year with the product, which is gluten-free and sweetened with organic nectar rather than refined sugar. It comes in a variety of flavours – including green tea, berry, mango and vanilla – in 474ml and 120ml pots (RRPs £4.65 and £1.95).

Frozen yoghurts, coconut milk ice cream and savoury flavours are among the latest innovations in speciality ice creams and sorbets. LYNDA SEARBY reports.

Top sellers…

… at Kilnfor d Barns, Dumfries

Cream o’ Gal loway luxury vanilla Cream o’ Gal loway sticky toffee Cream o’ Gal loway Chocol ate to Die Fo r Cream o’ Gal loway organi c chocolate Cream o’ Gal loway real st rawberry

Mackie’s of Scotland is responding to consumer demand with a new ‘Indulgent’ range. Owner Karin Mackie says consumers were asking for “a new indulgent range that was easier to scoop, environmentally friendly and with no artificial ingredients, and that had more flavour and ripple or pieces”. Mackies hopes the four flavours – rum & raisin, butterscotch, strawberries & cream and toffee apple – will deliver on all these counts. The ice cream, which retails at £3.49 for a 1 litre tub, is made on the family’s Aberdeenshire farm in a factory powered by wind turbines.

www.froberry.com

www.mackies.co.uk

Strawberries and balsamic vinegar are a classic combination in Italy, and now UK consumers are warming to the idea too.

Mendip Moments will recreate this pairing in a limited edition sorbet flavour. The strawberry & balsamic sorbet and a limited edition white Huddersfield-based Yummy Yorkshire’s new beetroot ice cream might not become a best seller, but it will provide a talking point. The producer, which also runs an ice cream parlour in the town, created the flavour for the 2011 Great Taste Awards and made it a permanent fixture in the range

after it scooped one star.

Other new ice cream flavours from Yummy Yorkshire include dandelion & burdock, malted chocolate & honeycomb and Jaffa Cake. All the flavours come in 500ml tubs with an RRP of £3.75. www.yummyyorkshire.co.uk

The launch of lemon curd ice cream, rhubarb ice cream and strawberry sorbet has signalled the arrival of spring at Jude’s Ice Cream. The Hampshire company focuses on seasonal flavours using locally sourced ingredients and donates 10% of profits each year to charity. The flavours come in 4 litre catering tubs.

Callestick Farm’s 500ml tubs of ice cream are now sporting a new look after an overhaul by design agency Red Rocket in Exeter.

The packaging is intended to portray a premium feel and the products’ Cornish farm provenance.

www.judes.co.uk

www.callestickfarm.co.uk

It’s the coming of the coconut Coconut water is big in beverages, and now it seems coconut milk ice cream could soon be a familiar sight in the freezer cabinet.

Bessant & Drury claims to make the UK’s only coconut milk ice cream and, since launching in 2011, is now listed in 85 outlets in the UK, including Whole Foods Market in London and Glasgow, Planet Organic,

As Nature Intended, Partridges in London and Sunny Foods in Brighton.

The company says it chose coconut because of its nutritional and health benefits – rich in fibre, it reputedly boosts the metabolism and improves calcium and magnesium absorption. The firm says its product offers the taste, texture and appearance of a premium ice cream,

chocolate with raspberry marble ice cream will be available in time for Easter. Both products have an RRP of around £4.49 for 500ml and are sporting the new design (pictured) that has been rolled out across the range. www.mendipmoments.co.uk

Top sellers…

Farm Shop … at Cobbs rd, Berkshire in Hungerfo bean ents vanilla Mendip Mom olic Chunk ents Chocoh Mendip Mom & pecan ents praline Mendip Mom crunch set ents Somer Mendip Mom eam cr d te ot cl s& strawberrie lla d Daisy vani Buttercup an

despite being dairy-free.

The coconut ice cream currently comes in four flavours (chocolate, vanilla, strawberry and lemon) in 500ml tubs (RRP £4.99), with 125ml and napolis also available. 2012 will see the extension of the range with the launch of coffee, coconut and two other flavours. www.bessantanddrury.com

Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012

25

THIS IS GELATO! “Bring back memories of an Italian summer with a taste of our authentic Italian artisan Gelato, hand-made with lots of love and Italian passion, following a 40 year old family recipe, and using only the best natural ingredients”

Contact us if you think your customers deserve the best for dessert.

Tel/Fax: 02088035344 Email: info@ilgelatodiariela.com www.ilgelatodiariela.com

Norfolk CouNty fresh Cream ICe Cream The connoisseur’s choice

Do you want the best?

Winners of 19 Gold Great Taste Awards

lakeNham Creamery Specialist Ice Cream Makers

Eileen’s Diabetic – Aldous Traditional

Tel. 01603 620970 Fax. 01603 765647 www.lakenhamcreamery.co.uk email: info@lakenhamcreamery.co.uk 2 Trafalgar St. Norwich NR1 3HN

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April 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 3

Tamper evident & film sealable plastic food packaging Reliable leadtimes and service – sensible minimum order size Products available from stock in transparent Sizes available from 30ml to 5000ml

Visit www.innavisions.com or call us for a brochure TEL; 01886 832283 EMAIL; nick.wild@innavisions.com

product update

ice cream Sheffield’s Yee Kwan has torn up the rulebook with its new range of savoury ice cream, which launched in Harvey Nichols, Knightsbridge, in October. Said to be an ideal accompaniment for soups, roasted or cured meats and fish, the ice cream comes in parsnip & wasabi, avocado & chilli and smoked olive oil & black pepper flavours.

Figure-conscious females are the main target audience for Glastry Farm Ice Cream’s latest creation. The Northern Ireland producer’s pear sorbet contains just 2.5% fat and comes in 500ml retail tubs. “Sorbets are now a very dynamic part of our business,” says MD Will Taylor. “In fact sales of sorbets doubled in 2011 largely because of demands from diet conscious consumers.”Pear sorbet joins existing sorbets apple schnapps, Champagne and Raspberry Ruffle. In addition, Glastry has added three new flavours – coconut, cappuccino Milano and raspberry & lavender – to its ice cream range for summer.

Top sellers…

… at Gusto, Cheltenham Montpellier, nilla adagascan va Winstones M & cream rawberries Winstones st ate unky chocol Winstones ch ble ubarb crum Winstones rh ginger ney & stem Winstones ho

www.yeekwan.com

www.glastryfarm.com

Top sellers…

Borders based Doddington Dairy is celebrating its Scottish ancestry with the launch of two unusual ice cream flavours. Marketed under the Clan Maxwell brand, Scotch Bonnet chilli is an extreme contrast of hot and cold, while Wild Mountain thyme is described as “a smooth and aromatic ice cream with a subtle hint of lemon”. Both retail at £1.30 for 120ml.

… at Washin Shop, Bridp gpool Farm or t, Dorset Pu

www.doddingtondairy.co.uk

Frozen yoghurt is big in the US, and Lick is on a mission to replicate that success this side of the Atlantic. Lick opened the UK’s first frozen yoghurt parlour in Brighton in 2008 and is now launching its fatfree, probiotic frozen yoghurt in 125ml and 500ml tubs with RRPs of £1.99 and £4.49. The product comes in Straight Up, blueberry & raspberry, apple & cinnamon and banana & honey flavours. Lick claims it is the only brand on the market made completely from yoghurt.

rbeck vanilla bean Rookbeare Fa rm vanilla Rookbeare Fa rm dark ch erry sorbet Purbeck Hon eycomb Has h Purbeck choc olate browni e

www.lickyoghurt.com

Patriotic pots

How some producers are targeting the big British sales opportunities this summer Several ice cream makers are hoping to capitalise on the buzz surrounding the Olympic Games and the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee with special edition flavours.

Worcestershire’s Churchfields Farm has come up with three wittily named flavours.

Going for Gold (caramel ice cream with nuggets of honeycomb and fudge), The Queens Peach (premium peach ice cream) and God Save the Cream! (clotted cream ice cream) all come in 120ml, 500ml and 4 litre tubs, priced at £1.20, £3.99 and £13.45

(£16.14 including VAT) respectively.

Kent producer Simply Ice Cream is also getting patriotic this summer, introducing special edition Pride of Britain box-sets of red, white and blue ice creams and sorbets. The ice cream box-set contains Sublime Strawberry, Dreamy Vanilla and blackcurrant flavours, while the sorbets selection includes

raspberry, lemon and blackcurrant flavours (RRP £5.75).

Having recently enjoyed its own 60th anniversary, Minghella is reviving some of its original recipes from the Fifties for the Jubilee year.

The retrospective range includes strawberry, chocolate, coffee and vanilla flavours along with a special edition Cherries Jubilee ice cream based on a 1950s sundae. Minghella is running a special deal for the trade during May and June, offering 6 x 550ml tubs at a trade price of £13.50 plus VAT instead of the usual £16.20 plus VAT. Also keen to fly the Union Jack this summer is Essex ice cream maker Hadley’s with a new British inspired range branded Handmade

By Hadley’s Individuals. The flavours

– lemon curd, rhubarb & ginger and hot marmalade – are intended to be a twist on British tradition. Each flavour uses jams or preserves from local companies Jules & Sharpie and Hadleigh Farm. The 100ml and 500ml pots feature a patriotic new design created by Holy Cow and will be available from Easter onwards. www.churchfields-farm.co.uk www.handmadebyhadleys.co.uk www.minghella.co.uk www.simplyicecream.co.uk

Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012

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product update

ice cream Top sellers…

The fruit’s the thing

lloon Tree, … at The Baey, York Gate Helmsl ral vanilla Brymor natu wberry Brymor stra

MICK WHITWORTH meets the woman behind the fruit-packed Alder Tree ‘cream ice’ brand

berry Brymor rasp erella Brymor Cind olate Brymor choc

Stephany Hardingham with her newly launched 125ml impulse pots

What’s the difference between ‘ice cream’ and ‘cream ice’? That’s a question Stephany Hardingham has got used to answering in the eight years since launching her Alder Tree cream ice brand at the family fruit farm in Suffolk.

“We generally describe it as a cross between an ice cream and a sorbet,” says the 30-something former environmental consultant, who runs Alder Tree with partner Graham Sayell. “Our fruit content is over one-third, which is far more than you’d generally see in ice cream. It’s not normally more than 15%.”

In fact, it would be illegal for Hardingham to call her products “ice cream”. All her core flavours – like blackcurrant, damson, raspberry and tayberry – contain just three ingredients: fruit, cream and sugar.

“Because we’re using so much fruit, use cream and not milk and refuse to put in skimmed milk powder, it doesn’t contain enough milk to be called ice cream,” she says.

The business is built around surplus produce from Alder Carr Farm, near Needham Market, and is based in the timber-clad barns

28

April 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 3

that also house the family’s farm shop and café. Hardingham’s parents, Nick and Joan, bought the then-derelict site in 1981. It now includes a pick-your-own operation and produces vegetables and rarebreed meat as well as fruit “We’re not buying any pre-processed purées,” says Hardingham. “One year, when the damson crop was poor, we tried using damson purée and it was awful.”

The cream ices were originally made by Nick Hardingham to his mother Audrey’s recipes, but it was daughter Stephany – who has a Masters degree in business and the environment – who developed this into a standalone business.

Food writer Rose Prince now features Alder Tree in her Good Food Producers Guide.

TV chefs Thomasina Miers and Valentine Warner are also fans, and last autumn Alder Tree was visited by chef and restaurateur Richard Corrigan after reaching the finals of the BBC Radio 4 Food & Farming Awards.

The brand’s heartland is in East Anglia, where it supplies direct and through Taste of Anglia Table,

but it also stretches into Scotland, Wales and the South-West via Stratford Fine Foods.

“We’ve been approached by most of the supermarkets now,” says Hardingham, “but it’s not a route we want to go down. We’re talking about the John Lewis Food Hall in Oxford Street, but we have our own farm shop so we’re always about supporting the independents.”

Although pure fruit flavours remains her core products, Hardingham, added a vanilla & pear option soon after taking over the operation – pear has a “lovely mellow flavour, but with that bit of graininess”, she says. A creamy, plain vanilla was launched two years ago, and a chocolate cream ice was being launched as FFD went to press.

“Most outlets will stock more than one brand,” she says. “But we did find some places – mostly theatres and cinemas – that really wanted a vanilla and a chocolate and didn’t want to deal with more than one producer.”

After introducing new branding and eco-friendly 500ml pots last year, Alder Tree has just relaunched its former 100ml impulse version in a market-standard 125ml pot, all in the new livery. “It gives us more room on-pack to include some of the lovely customers’ comments we’ve had over the last few years,” says Hardingham. www.alder-tree.co.uk

Two new limited edition 500ml tubs (RRP £3.95) will be available from Dorset’s Purbeck Ice Cream throughout summer and autumn.

The flavours are chocolate brownie – featuring brownies made by Weymouthbased Lizzie & Bekki – and fig & honey made with local Purbeck honey and Turkish figs.

The flavours are also available in 2 litre retail tubs (RRP £13.50) and 4 litre catering tubs (trade price £17.75 plus VAT). www.purbeckicecream.co.uk

Yorvale has developed a fusion range of ice cream for discerning over-50s Saga travellers. The ‘super premium’ range includes lemon, honey & ginger; papaya, kiwi & mint; garden mint sorbet; and mango & lime. These flavours will be served in the East-West restaurant on board the Saga Sapphire cruise ship and will also be available to delis and farm shops from Easter in 500ml tubs. www.yorvale.co.uk

Mendip Moments

™

AWARD-WINNING premium artisan dairy ICE CREAM which is rich, dense and creamy, using only natural ingredients.

Mendip Moments ™, Tel: 01749 679400 info@mendipmoments.co.uk www.mendipmoments.co.uk

“Simply Incredible” Jean-Christophe Novelli

“Just so smooth, amazing.

10 out of 10!”

Antonio Carluccio

Natural Yoghurt with Wild Berry Fruits

Pistachio Ice Cream

Honeycomb Crunch Ice Cream

Liquorice Ice Cream

Mandarin, Lime & Basil Sorbet

Golden Fork Winning, Northumbrian icecream with an Italian twist

“The best bought ice cream available” James Martin featured our Honeycomb on Saturday Kitchen, declaring it to be the best bought ice cream available”

Simply Ice Cream is lovingly hand made in the heart of rural Kent, using only the very best and freshest local ingredients.

The result is intensely indulgent and unlike any ice cream you will have tasted before – simply heaven on a spoon!

T 01233 720922 M 07796 653890

E info@simplyicecream.co.uk www.simplyicecream.co.uk

Visit our website to see our award-winning flavours!

Alnwick Rum & Raisin Ice Cream

The Old Chandlery, Coquet Street, Amble, Northumberland NE65 0DJ Opening Hours: 10am – Early Evening 7 days a week e: hello@spurreli.com t: 01665 710890 w: www.spurreli.com

Sicilian Pistacchio Ice Cream Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012

29

Introducing the Authentic Gelato...

Made to the authentic method using the finest all natural ingredients; Vero Gelato enriches this traditional Italian dessert with a range of contemporary flavours.

Lighter than ice cream but rich in taste and texture, this is the true Gelato.

26 Park Royal Road London NW10 7JW Tel: 020 8965 1853 • Fax: 020 8965 4355 Email: sales@disotto.co.uk • www.disottofoods.co.uk

product update

sauces & dressings

Condiments of the season

Scottish start-up S’aussie has two Australianinspired sauces that it says work as both table sauces and marinades. Launched in October, Spicy Outback Barbie Q and Sizzling sweet chilli sauce are free from additives and suitable for vegans. Both come in 310g bottles (RRP £2.65) in trade cases of six.

As shoppers start dusting off barbecues and salad bowls for the summer season, MICHAEL LANE checks out the latest accompaniments for outdoor – and indoor – dining Importer Bespoke Foods will introduce a number of barbecue condiments from across the Pond next month, including additions to its range of French’s products. French’s Classic BBQ sauce (250g) and Sweet & Tangy BBQ sauce (260g) will be available to the trade for £1.50 with an RRP of £2.49 each. Also new in May will be a range of Rufus Teague barbecue sauces in 454g bottles (trade £3.55, RRP £5.99). The Kansas-based producer’s Touch O’ Heat and Honey Sweet sauces are both all-natural and gluten-free. Bespoke has sourced products from Mexican producer San Marcos, including a chipotle BBQ sauce and three salsas – chipotle, Mexican, and green Mexican – all available in 230g jars.

www. saussie.co.uk

Forest Products has tweaked the recipe for its sweet chilli & tomato sauce by upping the pepper content to provide a medium heat. The Dorset-based producer, now part of fellow West Country firm The Bay Tree Food Co following a merger last September, says the sauce is suitable both as a dipping sauce and as an accompaniment to barbecued meats. The product, which is part of Forest Products’ personalised range, comes in 250g bottles and has an RRP of £2.85. www.forestproducts.co.uk

www.bespoke-foods.co.uk

Saladworx has launched a new range of Scottish themed dressings to sit alongside its own Highland-grown salad leaves. Its Hebridean seaweed & lemon, heather honey & Arran wholegrain mustard, tarragon & elderflower, dill & lemon, raspberry & chocolate-mint, and calendula & garlic dressings are all available in 250ml bottles, which have an RRP of £5-£6. All the dressings – which have already won a Highlands & Islands award for Healthier Food and Drink – are made with Scottish cold-pressed rapeseed oil and herbs grown by Saladworx.

Norfolk’s Jubberwacky has developed a plum sauce, which it launched at the tail end of last year. The sauce – made with plums, garlic, ginger and chilli and sweetened with the producer’s own honey – comes in 280g bottles (wholesale £2.75, RRP £3.95). alison.jubb@btopenworld.com

www.saladworx.co.uk

Following last year’s release of its hot sauce made with baobab, producer Bim’s Kitchen has expanded its range of products featuring the African ‘super fruit’ including a smoky baobab BBQ sauce in 400g jars (£17.70 per case of six, RRP £4.00 each).

Bim’s sweet baobab hot sauce comes in 100ml bottles (RRP £4.00, cases of six £17.70). All of the baobab-based products are suitable for vegetarians. www.bimskitchen.com

Stokes Sauces has teamed up with Chase Vodka for its latest creation, a Bloody Mary ketchup. Suffolk-based Stokes says the product is as packed with tomatoes as its normal ketchup but also contains spirit vinegar and enough vodka to give it a “kick”. The sauce is available in a 300g bottle with an RRP of £2.98. www.stokessauces.co.uk

Top sellers…

& Oils, … at Olives Swansea essing

& thyme dr Jme beetroot mer herb Food Co sum The Bay Tree dressing dill sauce Coln Valley chilli & Food Co hot The Bay Tree g garlic dressin are sauce Delouis tart

Henshelwood’s has launched two sauces as part of a new ambient range it is developing. The firm, based on the Isle of Bute, created a horseradish cream and a dill & mustard sauce in response to demand from customers. Recipes were developed with the help of Abertay University’s food technology centre to give a good ambient shelf life to a style of product more often found in the chiller. Cases of six jars (200g, RRP £3.10) are available to retailers for £12.60. Henshelwood’s will add more recipes to the range soon. www.henshelwoodsfinefoods.co.uk

Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012

31

product update Top sellers…

ves Larder, … at Bay Lea ampshire Eastleigh, H

sauce s Benenden p tard ketchu ts sweet mus en em kl ac Tr own sauce Scrummy br y) Own-brand ms & Chutne ampshire Ja H by e ad (m o ketchup Heinz tomat ic dressing chilli & garl Sussex Gold

Harrington’

sauces & dressings Healthy dressing specialist Righteous All Natural says it has produced the first vegetarian-friendly cheeseflavoured dressing. Its mild English blue cheese & cider variety is made without animal rennet and, like all the firm’s dressings, contains no artificial colourings or preservatives.

It has also launched an oil-free caper & peppercorn dressing, which is suitable for vegans. The whole Righteous range is available through Cotswold Fayre and Marigold Health Foods.

Mr Filbert’s has added two new flavours to its range of Dorset Drizzles. The firm suggests using its beetroot & wasabi drizzle on a green leaf salad or as a marinade for salmon, duck or steak.

Meanwhile it says its poppy seed & balsamic drizzle will make a great barbecue marinade. Both come in 250ml bottles. Trade cases of eight bottles cost £18.18 and £20.72 respectively.

www.loverighteous.com

www.mrfilberts.com

Cottage Delight has come up with three flavours of marinade as part of a new Baste & Grill range, all packed in 250ml squeeze bottles with twist-nozzle caps. The firm says its blood orange & ginger marinade goes well with pork, chicken or duck, while its tamarind & lemon masala can be used with chicken or fish. The Argentinean Chimichurri variety is designed for steak. Each flavour is supplied in cases of eight bottles (RRP £3.95 each) and retailers can also request recipe cards to boost sales. www.cottagedelight.co.uk

Scarlett & Mustard is a new firm specialising in sauces, dressings and marinades. The Suffolk start-up’s initial range, launched in October 2011, features the “tangy”, tarragon-flavoured Granny’s Original and Auntie Frog’s lime & chilli dressings. Its other product is Rosie’s Doo-Dah sauce, made with rapeseed oil from Hill Farm and organic balsamic vinegar from Aspalls. All three of these dressings (wholesale £3, RRP £3.99) come in 250ml bottles and are available to the trade in boxes of 12 (single or mixed varieties), or in three bottle gift packs with a wholesale price of £10. www.scarlettandmustard. co.uk

Hawkshead Relish has developed a ketchup featuring Lyth Valley damsons, which are peculiar to the southern Lake District. The Cumbrian producer says its damson ketchup can be used with hot and cold meats as well as in casseroles and stews. The sauce comes in cases of six 230ml bottles (RRP £2.65 each) for £11.40. www.hawksheadrelish.com

Verstegen Spices & Sauces has created a range of four twominute Micro Marinades. The firms says that one 85ml bottle of its highly-concentrated chilli & paprika, thyme & oregano, rosemary & basil or Piri Piri varieties will be enough for 1kg of marinated product. Made with a blend of rapeseed, linseed and sunflower oils, the marinades can be used on meat, fish or vegetables, or to flavour rice and pasta dishes.

The products, which have an eight-month ambient shelf life, come in trade cases of four bottles (RRP £1.59 each) for £4.40. www.verstegen.co.uk

Taste of Texas has several new additions to the Truly Texas branded condiments range it imports exclusively into the UK. It now offers Texas Fire Water hot sauce (170g, RRP £3) made with a blend of Cayenne and Habanero peppers. The Wycombe-based business also has two more Truly Texas sauces, which will add a touch of smokiness to dishes either as a table sauce or a marinade. It says the smoky Mesquite BBQ sauce will enhance fajitas, steak, or baked beans, while the Southern Pecan BBQ sauce is ideal for children’s dishes like fish or chicken fingers. Both sauces come in 340g bottles and have an RRP of £4.50. www.tasteoftexas.co.uk

32

Oil and vinegar specialist Agnes Rose has added several vinegars made with local Cumbrian honey to its range. Its strawberry balsamic vinegar with honey and its Cumbrian damson balsamic vinegar with honey are available in 100ml (trade £4.15, RRP £6.25) and 200ml (trade £6.55, RRP £9.95) bottles. 100ml bottles of Cumbrian damson cider vinegar with honey are available to the trade at £3.45 per unit with an RRP of £5.20, and it also comes in 250ml bottles (trade £5.90, RRP £8.85).

The Oxford Fine Food Co – the firm behind Oxford Blue cheese – has revamped the labelling for its Oxford Sauce. Created by company founder Baron Robert Pouget over a decade ago, the product has been likened to brown sauce with added chillies. “We changed the label because we thought the older one was a little bit too brash and didn’t reflect the subtlety of the sauce itself,” explains Pouget. He adds that he is currently looking to boost the distribution of his sauce, which comes in 300ml bottles and has an RRP of £1.95.

www.agnesrose.co.uk

www.oxfordfinefood.com

April 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 3

Hot and Sweet Kitchen Garden Thai Chilli Jam complements so many things – sausages and stir fries, cheese and chorizo, fish cakes and falafels Call us for details of this and our full range of more than 80 jams, chutneys, marmalades, condiments and dressings www.kitchengardenpreserves.co.uk + 44(0)1453 759612 Follow us on

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Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012

33

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April 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 3

01933 62280

focus on

outdoor dining

Beef up your BBQ sales Summer barbies create scope for cross-selling meats with everything from cider to Saucish. MICK WHITWORTH asked the top team at Suffolk Food Hall how they approach the BBQ season.

W

ith fifth-generation farmers and a thirdgeneration butcher on its senior team, Suffolk Food Hall takes its meat offer seriously.

Head butcher Gerard King, whose father ran shops in north London, has been with the store since it opened on the Paul family’s farm near Ipswich in 2007, steering it to the national Best On-Farm Butcher title in the 2010 FARMA awards.

King put in 10 years in the butchery trade before switching horses to work in the City for a while, and brought with him both a good feel for the financials and clear vision of what he wanted to achieve.

“It was about going back to traditional butchery methods and genuinely doing what a lot of people only claim to do,” he tells FFD. “That means meeting with farmers, understanding the animals, buying whole carcasses, hanging them properly, butchering them properly and sticking to free range and extensively farmed animals.

“In London, provenance and animal welfare were not paramount, but they are for me.

And having respect for your animals is important for customers too.”

King is responsible for two fresh meat counters and a multi-deck full of pre-packs. One counter contains those core local meats – Blythburgh free range pork, Red Poll beef, Suffolk lamb – that bring shoppers back year-round. In the other, he says, “anything can happen”.

Summer additions include lamb, beef and pork kebabs, kofte kebabs, rose veal burgers, wild venison burgers and beef & chilli sausages.

When FFD visited in early March, King was already working with Robert Paul and his cousin and co-director Oliver Paul on cross-selling ideas for this summer. Staff have been charged with achieving 12.5% growth this year in the shop’s average basket size, currently around £1415, and as King says, just one extra jar of The Chilli Company’s smoky chipotle chilli salsa in each meat customer’s basket would do the job nicely.

So how is Suffolk Food Hall building its outdoor dining trade?

Gerard King: one jar of salsa in each basket can boost your average sale

• Become a ‘trusted advisor’…

– “You want people to have a good barbecue experience,” says Robert Paul. “So if, say, you’re selling them chicken wings, suggest they cook them gently for an hour in the oven first, so they’ll be tender and the meat will fall off the bone. Once they trust you, you can get them to try something different. What about legs of lamb, again cooked in the oven first?

Or spatchcock chickens?

It’s not all about burgers and sausages.”

•… But keep it simple – “Everyone has 20 recipes books in their kitchen,” he says, “but you just want to suggest something easy and

inspiring, like wrapping some spears of asparagus in Serrano ham and chargrilling them” • Be targeted – “ You need to decide what you’re going to crosssell,” says Paul, “otherwise you’ll go out of your mind.” It’s a good idea to put together a table with a few barbecue-themed products on it. Favourites at Suffolk Food Hall are Cottage Delight hickory smoked BBQ sauce and Jules & Sharpie’s Saucish relish.

• Think drink – alcohol is a natural add-on. As well as stocking local and regional ales, Suffolk Food Hall has a feature display of Aspall’s cider in cases of six – a “fantastic cross-seller” at £11.50 a case. King says: “I also do craft beer tastings on Saturday mornings. I give people a little tasting cup and they’ll almost always buy a couple of bottles. It’s

a bit of razzamatazz, the customer’s having fun and it’s all building up to their lovely afternoon barbecue.”

• Get your baps out – Suffolk Food Hall will this year be selling burger buns from its in-store craft bakery at 40p each, displayed in a basket by the meat counters and sized to precisely fit its own Broxstead Beefburgers. “We’re going to start with a plain bun and keep it simple,” says King. “The burger should speak for itself.”

• Sell ‘ingredients’ as well as ‘products’ – Alongside the prepared sauces and marinades, says Robert Paul, why not display raw ingredients like garlic, chilli, ginger and or whole lemons for shoppers who want to make their own marinades?

• Show meat-haters some love – Barbecuing is mainly a ‘man thing’, but help the chaps think of something to serve their veggie partners. “We had a lot of blokes last year saying ‘What are we going to do for the vegetarians,” says King. “So we put together lovely organic flat mushrooms topped with a little halloumi and pesto.

We just costed in the labour and then went for a 50-60% margin, allowing for the fact we’d probably have to throw a couple away.”

• Don’t be precious – Suffolk Food Hall makes its own marinades for kebabs, but King has been experimenting with bought-in versions from butchers’ sundries suppliers and says some shoppers are irresistibly drawn to those bright orange, artificial-looking proprietary glazes. www.suffolkfoodhall.co.uk www.cottagedelight.co.uk www.julesandsharpie.co.uk www.chillicompany.com

Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012

35

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BL ACKBERRY

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Lyme Bay Lyme Winery, Bay Winery, Axminster, Axminster, DevonDevon EX13 7PW EX13 7PW ENJOYENJOY SENSIBLY SENSIBLY UK Chief UKMedical Chief Medical OfficersOfficers recommend recommend adults do adults not do not regularly regularly exceed:exceed: Men 3-4 Men units 3-4daily, units daily, 4.1 4.1 WomenWomen 2-3 units 2-3daily. unitsAvoid daily.alcohol Avoid alcohol UK if pregnant if pregnant or trying ortotrying conceive. to conceive. UK

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• Contains 75cl •ALC 5.5% ALC VOL • Contains Sulphites LL 000 LL 00 75cl • 5.5% VOL Sulphites

N E T T L E &C G H IEN RG R YE R

NETTLE &

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VOL VOL 5.55.5

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Lyme Bay LymeWinery, Bay Winery, Axminster, Axminster, DevonDevon EX13 7PW EX13 7PW

ENJOYENJOY SENSIBLY SENSIBLY UK Chief UKMedical Chief Medical OfficersOfficers recommend recommend adults do adults not do not regularly regularly exceed:exceed: Men 3-4 Men units 3-4daily, units daily, 4.1 4.1 WomenWomen 2-3 units 2-3daily. unitsAvoid daily. alcohol Avoid alcohol if pregnant if pregnant or trying or to trying conceive. to conceive. UK UK

Units Units

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Lyme Bay Winery, Axminster, Devon EX13 7PW

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VOL 5.5 5.5

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75cl • 5.5% ALC VOL • Contains Sulphites LL 000 0000

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5 055145 503171

fivemiletown.com

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Lyme Bay Winery, Axminster, Devon EX13 7PW ENJOY SENSIBLY UK Chief Medical Officers recommend adults do not regularly exceed: Men 3-4 units daily, Women 2-3 units daily. Avoid alcohol 4.1 UK if pregnant or trying to conceive.

5.5

Lyme Bay Lyme Winery, Bay Winery, Axminster, Axminster, Devon Devon EX13 7PW EX13 ENJOY ENJOY SENSIBLY SENSIBLY UK Chief UKMedical Chief Medical OfficersOfficers recommend recommend adults do adults not do not regularlyregularly exceed: exceed: Men 3-4Men units3-4 daily, units daily, 4.1 4.1 WomenWomen 2-3 units2-3 daily. unitsAvoid daily.alcohol Avoid alcohol UK if pregnant if pregnant or tryingortotrying conceive. to conceive.UK

5 060272 780227

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Units Units

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Lyme Bay Winery, Axminster, Devon EX13 7PW ENJOY SENSIBLY UK Chief Medical Officers recommend adults do not regularly exceed: Men 3-4 units daily, Women 2-3 units daily. Avoid alcohol 4.1 UK if pregnant or trying to conceive.

5 060272 780227

ELDERBERRY

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VOL VOL 5.55.5

5 060272 780227

ELDERBERRY

ELDERBERRY

Units

BEST BEFORE END

75cl • 5.5% ALC VOL • Contains Sulphites LL 000 0000

Lyme Bay LymeWinery, Bay Winery, Axminster, Axminster, DevonDevon EX13 7PW EX13 7PW ENJOYENJOY SENSIBLY SENSIBLY UK Chief UKMedical Chief Medical OfficersOfficers recommend recommend adults do adults not do not regularly regularly exceed:exceed: Men 3-4 Men units 3-4daily, units daily, 4.1 4.1 WomenWomen 2-3 units 2-3daily. unitsAvoid daily. alcohol Avoid alcohol if pregnant if pregnant or trying or to trying conceive. to conceive. UK UK

5 060272 780203

VOL

75cl • 5.5% ALC VOL • Contains Sulphites LL 000 0000

Lyme Bay Winery, Axminster, Devon EX13 7PW ENJOY SENSIBLY UK Chief Medical Officers recommend adults do not regularly exceed: Men 3-4 units daily, Women 2-3 units daily. Avoid alcohol 4.1 UK if pregnant or trying to conceive.

5 060272 780203

Units

5.5

BEST BEFORE END

5 060272 780203

ENJOY SENSIBLY UK Chief Medical Officers recommend adults do not regularly exceed: Men 3-4 units daily, Women 2-3 units daily. Avoid alcohol 4.1 UK if pregnant or trying to conceive.

April 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 3

Units

BESTEND BEFORE END BEST BEFORE

• Contains 75cl •ALC 5.5% ALC VOL • Contains Sulphites 75cl • 5.5% VOL Sulphites LL 000 LL 00

To see To oursee fullour range full range of fruitofwines fruit and wines and liqueurs liqueurs pleaseplease visit lymebaywinery.co.uk visit lymebaywinery.co.uk

BL ACKBERRY

36

5 060272 780241

VOL

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S T RE A LD WEBREBRERRYR Y

THE CONNOISSEURS CHEESE

NEW

VOL 5.5 5.5

ELDERBERRY

Units

VOL

Units

BEST BEFORE END

75cl • 5.5% ALC VOL • Contains Sulphites LL 000 0000

To see our full range of fruit wines and liqueurs please visit lymebaywinery.co.uk

75cl • 5.5% ALC VOL • Contains Sulphites LL 000 0000

VOL

VOL

This is a light and refreshing fruit wine, delicious served chilled or over ice.

Lyme Bay Winery, Axminster, Devon EX13 7PW

5.5

5.5

Lyme Bay Lyme Winery, Bay Winery, Axminster, Axminster, Devon EX13 Devon7PW EX13 ENJOY SENSIBLY ENJOY SENSIBLY UK ChiefUKMedical Chief Medical Officers Officers recommend recommend adults do adults not do not regularlyregularly exceed: exceed: Men 3-4Men units3-4 daily, units daily, 4.1 4.1 Women Women 2-3 units2-3 daily. units Avoid daily.alcohol Avoid alcohol UK if pregnant if pregnant or tryingortotrying conceive. to conceive.UK

To see our full range of fruit wines and liqueurs please visit lymebaywinery.co.uk

ENJOY SENSIBLY UK Chief Medical Officers recommend adults do not regularly exceed: Men 3-4 units daily, Women 2-3 units daily. Avoid alcohol 4.1 UK if pregnant or trying to conceive.

VOL

Units Units

BEST END BEFORE END BEST BEFORE

• Contains 5.5%VOL ALC• VOL Sulphites 75cl • 75cl 5.5%•ALC Contains Sulphites LL 000LL0000 000 0000

NETTLE &

This is a light and refreshing fruit wine, delicious served chilled or over ice.

ELDERBERRY

5.5

VOL VOL 5.55.5

Lyme Bay Winery, Axminster, Devon EX13 7PW ENJOY SENSIBLY UK Chief Medical Officers recommend adults do not regularly exceed: Men 3-4 units daily, Women 2-3 units daily. Avoid alcohol 4.1 UK if pregnant or trying to conceive.

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Available nationally through Cheese Cellar, Carron Lodge, ELDERBERRY ELDERBERRY Rowcliffe & Fife Creamery

Units

BEST BEFORE END

75cl • 5.5% ALC VOL • Contains Sulphites LL 000 0000

ENJOYENJOY SENSIBLY SENSIBLY UK Chief UKMedical Chief Medical OfficersOfficers recommend recommend adults do adults not do not regularly regularly exceed:exceed: Men 3-4 Men units 3-4daily, units daily, 4.1 4.1 WomenWomen 2-3 units 2-3daily. unitsAvoid daily.alcohol Avoid alcohol UK if pregnant if pregnant or trying ortotrying conceive. to conceive. UK

5 060272 780227

VOL

Lyme Bay Lyme Winery, Bay Winery, Axminster, Axminster, DevonDevon EX13 7PW EX13 7PW

5 060272 780227

5.5

BEST BEFORE END

75cl • 5.5% ALC VOL • Contains Sulphites LL 000 0000

N CEHTETR RLYE C & HGE IRNR G Y ER

CHERRY

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show preview

Where the west meets the rest

The South West region’s largest trade show returns for another year at Exeter’s Westpoint

I

t’s three years since organiser Hale Events bolted a new section onto Exeter‘s Taste of the West exhibition, which started life chiefly as a showcase for members of the eponymous regional food group.

With the addition of The Source, Hale broadened the show’s horizons to welcome suppliers from across the UK, making this less of a local affair and more of a South West equivalent to the Guild of Fine Food’s Harrogate Speciality Food Show.

That move is given more credence in 2012 with the debut of Wales the True Taste at this year’s show, at Exeter’s Westpoint showground on April 23 and 24.

The Welsh stand will host a number of Welsh speciality producers looking to reach buyers on the other side of the Bristol Channel.

Mike Anderson, director of organiser Hale Events, says roughly 20% of exhibitors this year will be from outside the South West, and he expects last year’s total of 150 to be exceeded.

“From a trade point of view there won’t be any other shows in the West with 150-200 exhibitors,” says Anderson.

Visitors – of which there were 2,000 last year – will be an even split of buyers from the retail and foodservice sectors, mainly within the region, where Anderson says the hotel and catering sectors appear to be the growth areas.

The Newcomers area, introduced last year, makes a return in 2012, giving buyers the opportunity to meet first-time exhibitors and identify the newest products on show.

Other attractions include a demonstration kitchen where visitors can see the region’s top chefs at work, including South West Chef of the Year Tom Scade.

The Guild of Fine Food, FFD’s publisher, will be on stand G16, providing information about Guild membership, training courses and the Great Taste Awards. www.sourcefoodanddrink.co.uk

NEED TO KNOW Venue Westpoint Exhibtion Centre, Exeter, EX5 1DJ How do I get there?

Westpoint Exhibition Centre is located just one mile from M5 Junction 30 on Sidmouth Road.

An hourly train service runs to Exeter from London Waterloo.

Exeter Airport is located three miles from the centre.

How do I register?

Tickets for the show are free, but attendees must register in advance by calling the ticket hotline (01934 733456), emailing tickets@sourcefoodanddrink.co.uk or registering online at www. sourcefoodanddrink.co.uk. Once you are registered Hale Events will send your tickets and a full show preview.

New for 2012 l My First Curry produces gluten-free vegetarian-friendly curry kits that allow home cooks to adjust the heat levels of individual servings, with a separate chilli “hot shot” sachet. The Plymouth firm’s range includes Indian varieties such as Rogan Josh, Jalfrezi and Tikka Masala as well as Thai red and green curries. www.myfirstcurry.co.uk

l All of Cornish Charcuterie‘s products are hand-made from meat reared on their North Cornwall farm. By Easter, owners Richard and Fionagh Harding hope to have increased their range, which currently includes sausages and patés, to 30 products and are developing some smoked meats and fermented sausages. enquiries@cornishcharcuterie.co.uk

l Masters Brewery has been producing ales in Wellington, on the Somerset-Devon border, since 2005. Husband and wife team Richard and Lynn Masters supply several beers – such as the signature Masters Bitter (3.9% ABV), the copper-coloured Apsley Ale (4.2% ABV), and Duke Bitter (4.5% ABV). www.mastersbrewery.co.uk

l Dressit is a new brand of dressings, sauces and condiments from the man behind Robert’s Sauces. Robert Imlach’s new products are made with English cold pressed rapeseed oil and include Seville orange & juniper dressing, Somerset walnut & honey dressing and his sweet chilli dipping sauce. libertyorchards@gmail.com l Owens hand-roasts its coffee in Modbury, Devon, just south of Dartmoor. All its products, made from Fairtrade Arabica beans, are available in both whole bean and ground format. They include three filter coffees as well as espresso and decaffeinated blends. www.owenscoffee.com

l Frome-based Yumble makes a number of sweet and savoury ready-to-cook crumbles. Products range from traditional fillings and toppings through to recipes like The King and I – an apple crumble flavoured with lemongrass, lime and coconut – and Ay Carumbla – made with pork, chorizo and beans topped with cheese and breadcrumbs. www.yumblecrumble.co.uk l Specialising in products made from local apple varieties such as Grenadier and Bramley, Dutch Farm Fruits is based in Yeovil, Somerset.

Its range includes apple compotes (both plain and with added fruit), jams, apple purée, ready-to-use apple filling for baking and fruit pieces preserved in rum and brandy. www.dutchfarmfruits.co.uk Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012

37

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April 2012 路 Vol.13 Issue 3

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product update

beers & ciders

A touch of glass The premium bottled beer market is growing and a change in the law could boost sales further.

MICHAEL LANE finds out how independents can cash in.

T

he growth in popularity of bottled ales and ciders has been apparent for some time, particularly if you study the burgeoning collections in most supermarkets.

Marston’s, a leading supplier to the multiples, has hailed the growth of this market – despite declines in total beer sales – in a recent report on British bottled ale.

It also says that proposed minimum pricing legislation, currently on trial in Scotland, will narrow the price gap between mainstream lager and premium beer, encouraging consumers to trade up.

James Brundle stocks around 80 bottled beers and 20 ciders at the Village Stores, Walthamstow, North London – last month’s FFD Deli of the Month. His best sellers come from all over the world, supplied by distributor Beers of Europe, including America’s Brooklyn Brewery, Australia’s Little Creatures Pale Ale and Chalky’s Bite made by Sharps in Cornwall. But local beers do just as well.

“It’s not quite at the same point as wines but people really are starting to get interested in beer produced by microbreweries,”

Village Stores counts both local and foreigh beers among its best sellers

he says. Brands such as Brodie’s, brewed in nearby Leytonstone, are outselling mainstream lines like Stella Artois.

For delis thinking about offering bottled beer, Brundle’s advice is to source directly from the most local breweries and stock a reasonable selection. Carrying just one or two beers is not enough, but a range of 11 or 12 will produce results.

Labelling bottles, either

News of the brews West Lake is launching a sparkling cider made using a bottle fermentation method that it says was used in the West Country in the 1600s and is older than Dom Perignon’s Champagne method. The Devon firm’s ‘Traditional Method’ cider, made with the county’s vintage cider apples, comes in 75cl bottles with a wholesale price of £5.70. The firm is developing a sparkling perry for sale next year.

individually or on the shelf display, with information about the maker and where a drink comes from will also boosts sales, he says.

“You can’t just get a beer from the middle of nowhere, price it up at £8.99 and expect it to sell.”

Conversely, Brundle has sold bottles at over £10 each by shouting about their provenance.

While beers are a core product in the Walthamstow shop they are

more of an add-on at high-class grocer Grantham’s of Alderly Edge, in Cheshire. Despite this, both retailers says their margins on beer sales are 25%-40%.

Mike Grantham, who refuses to stock canned beer, says that he makes bigger margins on brands not stocked by the multiples, like Stockport-based brewery Robinsons, where there is less price competition. “You can get a premium price for local beer because it’s not in Tesco,” he says.

At Grantham’s, sales change with the seasons. “The lighter, lager styles will sell better in summer and the traditional British-style beers sell better in winter.”

Although he tries to steer clear of mainstream brands, Grantham does stock Peroni, which has helped him push sales of the similar but lesser-known Italian brew Menabrea – now one of his bestsellers.

As with deli foods, communication is everything.

Grantham says he boosts beer sales by making personal recommendations, both in conversation and using shelf labels. www.beersofeurope.co.uk www.birramenabrea.it

Pilton Cider is made in Somerset near Shepton Mallet using the ancient process of keeving, which prevents full fermentation and produces a “soft, fruity drink, full of apple flavour”. Following a six-month fermentation period, the 5.5% abv cider is transferred to clear Champagne bottles and left for several months to develop a sparkle. It is available in cases of six 75cl bottles (trade £4.50, RRP £7.99 each). www.piltoncider.com

www.west-lake.co.uk

Suffolk’s Aspall says its Imperial Cyder is “designed to sit at the top of the premium cyder category”. The dark golden 8.2% abv vintage cider, based on a 90-year old Aspall family recipe, is made with 2010 apples and added muscovado sugar to aid the fermentation. It is available in 500ml bottles (RRP £2.29). At the other end of the abv scale, the producer has introduced Lady Jennifer’s – a 4% abv cider that comes in 500ml bottles with an RRP of £1.99. Aspall hopes this will be an entry point to premium cider, with particular appeal to female drinkers. www.aspall.co.uk

Wye Valley Brewery has added Blissful Brown Ale to its range of Dorothy Goodbody’s branded beer. The Herefordshire firm says the ale has “a deeply fruity aroma, leading to a rich, full flavour with raisin and malt sweetness”.

It is brewed with local hop varieties and is available exclusively in bottle-conditioned format. www.wyevalleybrewery.co.uk

Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012

39

Quality Ciders and Soft Drinks Made in Devon

www.ashridgecider.co.uk Barkingdon Farm, Staverton Totnes, Devon TQ9 6AN Tel: 01364 654749

FRO M THE DEPTHS OF DEVON. . .

All of o ur drinks, be it our award -w in ning ging er beers, juices or lemonades, ar e craf ted w ith exceptional care in small batc h es using th e best ingredients we can find. We n ever co mp ro mis e and put only the best in the bottle.

To try them for yourself, com e and s ee us at s tan d E11/D12 at The Source and Taste of the West s ho w.

T. 01364 64 30 36

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40

April 2012 路 Vol.13 Issue 3

A promotional feature on behalf of Union Hand-Roasted Coffee

Understanding Coffee In a new series, Union Hand-Roasted Coffee founders JEREMY TORZ and STEVEN MACATONIA look at what makes ‘speciality’ coffee special – and how their Union Direct Trade model raises quality while improving income for small-scale coffee farmers

Jeremy Torz (left) with development worker and agronomist Kalisa Pascal (second left), checking harvest quality at Maraba, Rwanda

Raising the bar What is speciality coffee?

Just as delis, farm shops and food halls represent the cream of food retailers, speciality coffees represent the cream of the coffee crop.

Only about 10% of the world’s best Arabica beans are good enough for the premium market, the remaining 90% disappear into the mainstream.

The 10% selected as speciality coffee provide a cleaner, sweeter drinking experience – like a good estate wine compared with a cheap wine box. At Union Hand-Roasted Coffee we further differentiate ourselves by selecting from the top 1% of the best Arabica crop in Latin America, Asia and Africa where we have developed close relationships with farmers.

As well as being of superior quality and taste, speciality Arabica coffees are produced by individual farms in discrete regions – again, like chateau wines – offering the unique stories to engage your shoppers.

Naturally, coffees that score the highest on the tasting table will cost more than mainstream coffees. This is especially the case with some microlot coffees – exceptional beans that may represent just one day’s selective picking by a smallholder. When we

discover amazing coffees like this, we love to secure them and roast them for skilled baristas to generate some excitement in their cafés. These jewels of the coffee world can cost as much as £45 a kilo – but then, clients who receive our monthly list are seeking an extraordinary coffee experience.

Micro-lot coffees are not always about big flavours. Some are subtle, with distinctive fruit tones – like our recent honey processed Bello Horizontes from El Salvador, which has tones of cooked apricot and jammy fruit, with sherry notes: a remarkable coffee.

We are happy to guide retailers on their coffee ranges, and suggest they stock a small year-round range then introduce guest coffees to add variation week by week.

Several factors contribute to the higher price of speciality beans. For example, growing coffee high up the mountains where trees mature more slowly results in better flavour but lower yields, so production costs are higher. Also, our farmers grow in a sustainable environment by planting coffee among indigenous trees, which provide shade and encourage biodiversity but also slow growth.

However, while you might pay two or three times more to get

a decent quality wine, speciality coffees can be as little as 20% dearer than mainstream coffee – so price shouldn’t be an obstacle once your customers appreciate the differences in taste.

Direct Trade versus Fairtrade Provenance is only part of the speciality coffee story. Encouraging sustainable prices for producers is another key aspect.

Everyone is familiar with the Fairtrade logo. However, what fewer shoppers may understand is that while the scheme does offer benefits to producers it is not a quality guarantee. That’s why, over the past 11 years of working out in the field with producers, we have developed our own Union Direct Trade model.

We see the floor price as a minimum requirement, but we then focus on how producers can increase their return by improving quality. We view this as a more sustainable model then Fairtrade.

We visit farmers throughout the year, talking openly and honestly with small producers and sharing both technical and business advice with them. We have found that many farmers do not record their input costs, so they don’t know if they are making a profit or not. It’s interesting how many coffee brands say “we guarantee our farmers a sustainable price”, because our experience on the ground suggests most farmers don’t know what a “sustainable price” is. For this reason, we developed

business tools to help farmers understand their cost base, and we are funding a development research worker in the field to train farmers.

Even the highest quality coffee, like a chateau wine, will vary in quality each season as the climate varies.

But if a farm is managed well, yield variability can be reduced.

So while we do source from small farms that are certified, that’s a baseline which we build upon with our Union Direct Trade. In speciality coffee, long-term relationships are the key to success. www.unionroasted.com

Join Jeremy and Steven in finding out more about producers in Maraba, Rwanda.

Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012

41

For sales or distribution enquiries contact: 01686 668933 or email info@montysbrewery.co.uk

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April 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 3

A promotional feature for the Guild of Fine Food

APRIL’S MONEY MAKING PROMOTIONS The Guild of Fine Food has developed its Retail Promotion Scheme to help retailers survive recession hit Britain. We are negotiating with our producer members and have handpicked a selection of great products on which we’ve secured big discounts unique to Guild retail members.

DORSET SMOKERY & CHARCUTERIE The Dorset Smokery has an award-winning hand-crafted range of artisan pates.

They are produced in small batches to ensure quality and consistency, having a traditional robust flavour and have no artificial colourings or flavourings. All are available in 1kg and 500g pots.

All products are despatched chilled overnight and have 28 days shelf-life on arrival.

The deal: Buy 3 get 4th free Availability: Nationwide – minimum carriage paid order £40 Contact: Telephone 01202 479979 or email artisanfood@hotmail.co.uk

ADLINGTON Adlington ltd is a family business specialising in the production of high end poultry products where taste and texture takes priority over more modern and highly mechanised procedures. The Arden Forest cooked and oak smoked turkey has an amazing flavour and delicate texture. The firm uses traditional methods married with modern ideas to produce the cooked and smoked, the latter being soaked in a secret brine recipe before being smoked over oak wood chips. The smoked turkey has won a Great Taste 2 star gold award and was voted supreme champion at the HEFF Diamond Food Awards.

The deal: 20% off whole joints Availability: Nationwide – minimum carriage charge paid order £100 Contact: Esme Rafter 01676 532681, www.adlingtonltd.com

GILCHESTERS

DIPNATION

MINIATURE BAKERY

Take advantage of the spring offer on these delicious savoury Spelt Biscuits from Gilchesters own grown and milled spelt. The biscuits are packaged in cases of 12.

Presented in beautifully designed boxes, they come in three varieties: Plain, Thyme and Honey & Mustard.

A delicious accompaniment to soft cheeses, pates or just to nibble on their own. An ideal artisan product than can also be part of your hamper offer. All its products have a four month shelf life.

The Deal: Buy 3 cases and get a special price of £1.78/box (£21.36 case) and free delivery Availability: Nationwide. Free delivery for 3 cases Contact: Email info@gilchesters.com or call 01661 886119

DipNation is on a mission to boost the UK’s choice of dips and has created awardwinning flavours with an imaginative mix of fresh ingredients. Its original ‘Chunky Dips’ are all Great Taste winners, made with cashews and authentic Parmesan cheese. The range includes Sweet Thai Chilli, Roasted Red Pepper, Spinach & Feta, Sun Dried Tomato and Roasted Butternut & Sweet Chilli. It says its Middle-Eastern inspired ‘Classic Dips’, including Fresh Houmous, Caramelised Onion Houmous and Roasted Red Pepper Houmous are perfect for summer picnics and BBQs. The Deal: Free case (6 x 135g) of NEW Original Basil Pesto on all orders Availability: Nationwide, directly through DipNation (free delivery on orders of 40 units or more) Contact: Juliet Williams 07817 048 827 info@dipnation.co.uk

Miniature bakes and finishes its all butter biscuits by hand in Batley, West Yorkshire. The firm, established in 2007, says its products are “small in size but big on taste”. Its range includes All Butter Viennese, Chocolate Viennese, Chocolate Meringue, Chocolate Macaroon and Chocolate Snap biscuits as well as the latest addition to the range and top selling line – a Chocolate Biscuit Selection (RRP £5.99). This pack includes All Butter Viennese, Chocolate Viennese, Coconut Meringue enrobed in White Chocolate and Chocolate Crisp (nominated for best new product at Deliciouslyorkshire’s awards). Also in the pack are three new lines exclusive to the selection – Chocolate Snap coated in Milk Chocolate, Chocolate Snap coated in Plain Chocolate and All Butter Viennese coated in Milk Chocolate.

In total the pack features seven different varieties and 24 pieces.

THE DEAL: 10% discount with every order of 8 cases AVAILABILITY: Mainland U.K. FREE DELIVERY 8 case minimum order CONTACT: Tim Little, tel: 01924 359900, email: tim@theminiaturebakery.com

POLGOON Polgoon Vineyard & Orchard in Penzance has been producing it’s award-winning Sparkling ‘Aval’ (Cornish for apple) since its first crop of apples from the replanted orchard in 2007.

Vintage Aval, best seller Raspberry Aval and Aval Royale (with blackcurrant juice) are all made using the Method Traditionelle (the same as is used in France) with quality apples and pure fruit juice. All the Aval products come in a 75cl champagne bottle with muzzled wired champagne cork.

The smaller format (33ml) of Polgoon fruit ciders – Cornish Dry Cider, Cornish Pink (with raspberry juice) and Cornish Black (with blackcurrant juice) – are ideal with light lunches or suppers.

The Deal: Free case of 12 x 330ml Original Cider with any order of 4 packs of Aval (original, raspberry or blackcurrant) 6 x 75cl or any of our ciders (pink, black or original) 24 x 330ml Availability: Mainland U.K. Minimum 4 packs Contact: Kim Coulson, call 01736 333946 or email cheers@polgoon.co.uk

GUILD RETAIL PROMOTION SUMMARY (Available to Guild members only) COMPANY

DEAL

TEL

ADLINGTON 20% off whole joints 01676 532681 DIPNATION FREE case of NEW Original Basil Pesto (6 x 135g) on all orders 07817 048 827 DORSET SMOKERY Buy 3 and get the 4th FREE 01202 479979 GILCHESTERS Buy 3 cases and get a special price of £1.78/box plus FREE delivery 01661 886119 MINIATURE BAKERY !0% discount with every order of 8 cases 01924 359900 POLGOON Buy 4 packs of Aval/cider and get a FREE case of Original Cider (12 x 330ml) 01736 333946

EMAIL/WEB

www.adlingtonltd.com info@dipnation.co.uk artisanfood@hotmail.co.uk info@gilchesters.com tim@theminiaturebakery.com cheers@polgoon.co.uk

RETAIL MEMBERS – To sign up to the retail promotion scheme contact: tortie.farrand@finefoodworld.co.uk or ring her on 01963 824464 to ensure you receive your shelf-barkers to help promote these discounts instore. SUPPLIER MEMBERS – want to take part?

Contact mike.cook@finefoodworld.co.uk for more information Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012

43

23 - 24 APRIL 2012 WESTPOINT, EXETER

The true source of food and drink inspiration

• A unique blend of food and drink from over 200 companies • South West specialities and flavours from further afield • A growing show with a 20% increase in visitor numbers 2010-2011 For stand bookings, call 01934 733433 and speak to Paul or James. For FREE entry call the ticket hotline on 01934 733456 or, register online now at: www.sourcefoodanddrink.co.uk www.tasteofthewesttradeshow.co.uk

pantone 286c

100%cyan 66%magenta

pantone 130c

30%magenta 100%yellow

This trade only event is organised by Hale Events Ltd. Premier House, Old Church Road, Axbridge, Somerset BS26 2BQ Telephone: 01934 733433

44

April 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 3

Source Fine food magazine-v2.indd 1

25/10/2011 15:43

shelftalk

products, promotions & people

Three Crowns Confectionery brand launches this month with 27 chocolate lines

Hider team are partners in confectionery start-up EDITE CR

R

AC

D

controlling every stage.”

The new factory, which S U P LI E P includes machinery for Four directors of depositing, decorating, Hider Food Imports and panning and enrobing, a trio of confectionery will also offer private-label industry specialists are services for clients who behind a new chocolate want confectionery packed brand launching this month. under their own brand.

Three Crowns Duncan Hider is a Confectionery was set to shareholder in Three be unveiled at Food & Drink Duncan Hider: Crowns, along with his Expo at the NEC as FFD the new father and chairman David went to press. brand will not Hider, sales director Mark The business – replace those Williams and joint MD operating from a new currently on Mike Thirkettle. The four 10,000 sq ft unit in the distributor’s will be “silent but involved Hull’s new fruit market books partners” in the new development, close to business, he said.

Hider’s HQ – is presenting an initial list The other key shareholders of 27 products including chocolate are Mike Flower, Joe Horsley and bars, chocolate thins, enrobed fruits, Neil McCallum, who ran coated dragees and florentines. confectionery business Horsley Hick The products will be supplied & Flower, which became part of through Hider Foods and many Killerton Confectionery last year. will be based around ingredients Hider told FFD the three were such as dried fruit and nuts that are “really good, interesting and skilled currently imported by Hider. However, individuals who have been suppliers they will be sold under the Three to Hider Foods for over 20 years in Crowns brand and, according to the one form or another”. distributor’s joint MD Duncan Hider, they will not unseat other brands www.hiderfoods.co.uk currently on its books. “We want something different for our brochure, not to suddenly replace other people.”

Products will be pitched at “highend farm shops and delis” but at reasonable prices, he said. “It’s going to be high quality chocolate, but we’ll be affordable and give a higher return [than similar brands] because we’re

By MICK WHITWORTH

Crown jewels Key products in the Three Crowns launch range are: • 100g milk chocolate bars with cocoa nibs, fruit & nut or caramelised hazelnuts (RRP £1.99) • 130g packs of orange, mint or lemon chocolate thins (RRP £2.99) • 100g packs of chocolate-enrobed pineapple, ginger and mulled wine raisins (RRP £1.99) • 100g packs of milk chocolate gianduja hazelnut dragees (RRP £1.99) • 100g packs of chocolate-enrobed honeycomb or Turkish Delight (RRP £1.99) • 120g milk, white and plain chocolate florentines (RRP £2.99)

Le Mesurier has introduced versions of two classics to its range of condiments.

Both the Hollandaise sauce (RRP £3.15) and salad cream (RRP £2.90) are available in 240g glass containers. Chef Patrick Le Mesurier recommends the sauces with Jersey Royal potatoes and asparagus.

He describes his "tangy" salad cream as “definitely not a poor relation to mayonnaise”. Surrey-based Le Mesurier says the key to his Hollandaise is his use of tarragon vinegar.

TRAIT UP: New this month is a range of takehome gourmet meals from The Cotswold Traiteur.

Chef Francis Green currently prepares and sells ready-meals in his shop in Moretonin-Marsh, Gloucestershire but has developed 10 meals for the independent trade. The range includes regional French dishes such as Provençal daube of beef, Normandy pork casserole (pictured) and Gascon duck leg cassoulet, as well as a vegetable tagine and four curries.

All of the meals, which are made with locally sourced ingredients, come in three portion sizes – 300g, 600g, and 1.2kg – and retail for £4.25-£19.75.

www.lemesuriers.com

www.cotswoldtraiteur.co.uk

Le Mesurier adds two classic sauce lines

Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012

45

shelftalk

CHEF’S SELECTION

Top chefs tell CLARE HARGREAVES their deli essentials

Scottish sea salt set for early May launch

Chef owner The Hand and Flowers, Marlow, Bucks

By MICK WHITWORTH

Scotland’s first “gourmet” sea salt is expected to go on sale within two months, with a projected RRP of £3 for 150g.

Natalie Crayton, who is developing the Hebridean Sea Salt brand from her home on the Isle of Lewis, said packaging had now been finalised.

The former sales and marketing executive has been tweaking her production process to achieve a large, flatter, flakier crystal that she believes will give a clear point of difference from the established Cornish Sea Salt brand.

Since first speaking to FFD last October Crayton has purchased pilot production equipment that she believes will give her more than enough volume to get through the launch period.

“It has been installed and it looks absolutely amazing,” she said. “It’s just meant for doing a feasibility study, but I’ve worked out it gives me enough capacity to handle up to 130 stockists.” She hopes to move to a full-scale production unit within two years.

Crayton is talking to Edinburgh’s Neil Forbes, named Chef of the Year at the 2011 Scottish Restaurant

www.thehandandflowers.co.uk

Stornoway black pudding www.charlesmacleod.co.uk

Founder Natalie Crayton has settled on a pack design

Awards, about a possible launch event at the beginning of May. The product will also be used by Michelin-starred Alan Murchison in the Scottish round of BBC2’s Great British Menu 2012, which starts in April.

“I’m using chefs for PR purposes,” Crayton said, “but my three-month plan is to get into some well-known stores like Craigies Farm Shop and Valvona & Crolla in Edinburgh, then get it into distribution.”

Faced with the high cost of getting product “across the water” from the Outer Hebrides to mainland Scotland, Crayton plans to explore options such as piggy-backing on deliveries by other producers, as well as approaching conventional distributors like The Cress Co. natalie@hebrideanseasalt.co.uk

Spicy nut blend gains first listings

By MICK WHITWORTH

R

D

AC

Tom’s Deli in London’s Westbourne Grove and Mortimer & Bennett in Chiswick are among the first stockists for a range of artisan snack mixes from Hampshire start-up Sundowner.

The premium brand is being developed by Jessica Diplock, who also handles PR, marketing and product development for deli-café chain Caracoli, which has stores in Hampshire and Surrey.

There are three themed blends of nuts, seeds and spices in Diplock’s initial range: Maharaja (cashews & pistachios, with Indian spices), Arabian Magic (walnuts, almonds & pinenuts with sesame seeds, roasted with cumin, coriander, chilli and red peppercorns) and Wild West (pecans and almonds with crunchy seeds, EDITE CR

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Chris Terry

Tom Kerridge

Jessica Diplock: 'You can see exactly what's inside, which is premium nuts'

agave syrup and chilli). Savoury biscuits and chips may be added in due course. The 180g packs are priced at £2.50 to the trade, with an RRP of £4.50-£4.95.

Diplock – who is producing the mixes in her home kitchen – said she had opted for clear bags with a header card to give an artisan feel and let shoppers see the quality of the product. “With snack mixes packed in foil you often think you’re buying ‘luxury nuts’ when in fact you’re getting peanuts and sunflower seeds. With ours, you can see exactly what’s inside, which is premium nuts like pecans and pistachios.”

The range has been given a relatively short eight-week shelf life because of the moisture content of some of the ingredients.

Diplock hopes to improve on this, but added: “If I didn’t use things like honey the product would be completely different.” www.taste-sundowner.co.uk

This succulent black pudding, produced to a family recipe by Charles MacLeod butchers on the Isle of Lewis, has the best texture of any I know. It’s made with extra Scottish oatmeal which gives a great rough texture. It has a wonderful flavour, it’s rich and has a little spice. When you fry it, it goes crispy. We serve it as part of our Full English breakfast.

I also put it on our à la carte menu, with pork fillet; the fillet is less fatty than other cuts, so the black pudding adds a meaty richness. I buy it in a 1.3 kg roll from my butcher, Walter Rose, in Devizes.

Montgomery’s mature cheddar www.montgomerycheese.co.uk

This is a wonderful handmade strong-flavoured cheese that we put on our cheeseboard. Matured for 12 months, it has a lovely sour, cheddary tang and I like the fact that its texture is hard and not too greasy. Montgomery’s is also fantastic to cook with. I put it, for example, in the cheese tortellini that I serve with parsley soup. I also use it for my Welsh rarebit, combined with English mustard and beer. I buy it in one or two kilo blocks from Premier Cheese.

Pratt’s English extra-virgin cold-pressed rapeseed oil www.prattsfood.co.uk

I was introduced to this lovely oil by Anthony Demetre, chef at Arbutus, while filming the Great British Menu. It has a distinctive, rich, deep, acorny flavour. Plus it’s British which is great – it’s grown on the Hampshire/Wiltshire border. Pratt’s rapeseed oil makes a good alternative to olive oil, and has half the saturated fat. We mix it with English mustard in the English dressing that we use on peppery leaves like mizuna and watercress. I like the fact it’s made by a small business with a nice ethos, and that if I want I can phone up and order direct from Chris Pratt who grows the rapeseed on his family farm.

Maldon sea salt www.maldonsalt.co.uk

The bonus of this salt, apart from its fantastic flavour, is that the price is good. It’s not too intense – you can almost eat the flakes on their own. Maldon salt is good in sweet things, especially white chocolate. Here in the restaurant we toast it with Szechuan pepper to make a mixture that we call Prickly Ash, used with our popular venison & ox tongue main course.

Fresh Olive Company capers www.fresholive.com

Hand picked, then packed in Champagne vinegar brine, these superfine capers have a far more intense burst of flavour than any others I’ve come across. You get twice the flavour for half the size, so plenty of bang for your buck. When it comes to capers, size really does matter – the smaller the better! They offer both acidity and bitterness. We deep fry them to make them crispy, and serve them with skate. We buy them wholesale from the Fresh Olive Company in 3kg tubs.

The Hand & Flowers is a 2-Michelin-star gastropub. Tom Kerridge appears on the Great British Menu on BBC2

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Are you planning to open a delicatessen or a coffee shop?

JOIN THE THYME & TIDES DELI ACADEMY! Work alongside our deli professionals For more information visit: www.deliacademy.com

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HAWKSHEAD RELISH www.hawksheadrelish.com

The Cumbrian business has launched a limited edition jam to commemorate the Queen’s 60th year on the throne.

Hawkshead’s Jubilee Jam is made with local Lyth Valley damsons and English rose liqueur. The product comes in 227g jars with an RRP of £2.60.

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The Highlands-based producer’s latest creations include a chilli venison chorizo, which won two gold stars at last year’s Great Taste Awards.

It is available in chunks (trade £22.35/kg, RRP £34.38/kg) or 75g packs (RRP £3.95).

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Chilli venison chorizo GREAT GLEN GAME

Raspberry lemonade The Devon-based drinks firm has reduced the time it takes for the raspberries to get from the bush into the press, giving its raspberry lemonade a “zingier” taste. It says that the drink, which is made with Sicilian lemons, is now fresher on the palate. Luscombe recommends serving the drink, available in 74cl

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features a 100g bar of original creamy toffee and a 100g bar of Brazil nut toffee as well as a toffee hammer.

The Union Jack emblazoned sleeve can be removed to reveal the pack’s original design, ensuring a shelf life beyond the Diamond Jubilee and Olympics.

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Cottage CottageDelight Delightsays saysitsitsnew range new range of spice of rubs spicecan rubs be massaged can be massaged directly into directly meat or into mixed meatwith or mixed olive oil with to olive makeoilan overnight to make an marinade overnight formarinade a more intense for a more flavour. intense Its garlic flavour. & herb Its rub garlic has& added herb rub lemon has added and is well lemon suited and is to well meat suited or fish. to meat The or fish. producer The producer says says the paprika the paprika in itsin smokey its smokey barbeque barbecue rubrub willwill addadd a deep a deep flavour flavour toto meat meat dishes dishes while itwhile describes it describes its jalapeno its jalapeno & lime&as “medium lime as “medium hot andhot zesty”. and All zesty”. three varieties All threecome varieties in 120g cometins in 120g and have tins and an RRP haveofan£4.25.

RRP ofTrade £4.25. cases contain Trade cases eightcontain tins and eight Cottage tins and Delight Cottagecan Delight also provide can alsoshelf provide wobblers shelf wobblers to draw to draw the customer the to the customer product. to the product.

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The latest addition to the importer and distributor’s range of Thai Taste products is a selection of dressings. All three dressings – sweet mango, chilli & garlic, and coriander, lime & chilli – come in 200ml bottles. These products, which can be used as dressings, dipping sauce or in cooking, will be available exclusively from Bespoke from May. AC

www.cottagedelight.co.uk www.cottagedelight.co.uk

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and 32cl bottles, with game terrine, smoked meat, and cheeses such as brie.

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shelftalk

Looking for suppliers accredited by the Guild of Fine Food?

Follow the logo

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Toffee duo

WALKER’S NONSUCH www.walkers-nonsuch.co.uk

The toffee maker has come up with a limited edition version of its duo hammer pack to make the most of gifting opportunities in 2012. Each patriotically decorated pack (RRP from £3)

Gadsby shelving goes over to the dark side

By MICK WHITWORTH

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Packaging and display specialist Gadsby has introduced a dark wood version of its timber shelving system to provide an option to stores with darker colour schemes.

According to marketing manager Will Gadsby – a sixth-generation member of the Somerset-based family firm, which majors on hampers at Christmas and display equipment at other times – the new range stemmed from a set of bespoke shelving developed for a major café chain.

It now joins the standard light wood range introduced to Gadsby’s catalogue four years ago, and includes a similar selection of two-, three- and four-tier floor-standing shelving units and smaller counter-top shelves, including a wheeled ‘cart’.

The lighter range includes both all-wood shelving and versions to hold baskets for irregular-shaped products such as bread and patisserie. Basket holders have not yet been added to the dark shelving as Gadsby feels this colour works less well with its standard pale willow baskets.

Prices for Gadsby’s shelving units – which are found in stores such as the Pyne’s farm shop near Taunton, featured in FFD in March – start at just under £70 for a two-tier counter-top unit to £220 for a cart. The new dark wood option costs 10% extra, but all EDITE CR

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prices decrease if more than one unit is bought.

Gadsby, which celebrates its 150th anniversary soon, is best known for its wicker hampers and baskets. Its client list includes both specialist and mainstream stores and café chains, from Harrods to the Co-op.

Originally based in London, the firm was bombed out of the capital during the Blitz and relocated to the Somerset Levels, its key source of willow for basket-weaving. It is now based on a large modern site at Bridgwater.

Although basket-making is now contracted out, it has an in-house weaver for producing samples – and managing director Paul Gadsby can also weave.

Will Gadsby told FFD: “A large proportion of our products nowadays are bespoke. At Christmas, all our bigger hamper clients will be looking for something tailor-made, and we like to think we can adapt quickly.”

Much of the company’s current product development is based around accessorising its display and gift products, he added, to create a one-stop shop. Recent additions include gift ribbons, clip-on price ticket holders and a range of miniblackboards to match the company’s timber shelving. www.gadsby.co.uk

Marketing manager Will Gadsby wheels out the new dark wood option Vol.13 Issue 3 April 2012

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shelftalk

Those crazy Italians Deli of the Month INTERVIEW BY MICK WHITWORTH

Gip Dammone tells FFD why his family’s deli-café in Leeds didn’t take off until they stopped trying to think like retailers

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’m at Salvo’s salumeria and café in the Headingley district of Leeds. Or rather, I’m in Salvo’s restaurant, two doors down the road, waiting for co-owner Gip Dammone to finish a late lunch of sufato di manzo (that’s slow-cooked beef stew with roasted new potatoes) with a side order of cime di rapa (“turnip tops”, he tells me) before we head back to the deli.

I’ve been told Gip is passionate about Italian food, which, as my Twitter chums will know, always makes me die a little inside.

Getting good business interviews out of “passionate” people can be a struggle. But I needn’t worry because, with Gip Dammone, interviewing doesn’t really come into it. Once he gets up a head of steam he just talks for England. And Italy.

Between mouthfuls of beef, Dammone gives me a potted history of Salvo’s Salvo’s co-owner Gip Dammone (far left) with deli manager Nick Harvey

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restaurant: started 35 years ago by Bufalini Casertani, is flown in Gip and his father Salvatore; now run specially every week by Leeds-based

by Gip and his brother John; recently Gusto Campania, “because,” says refurbished and extended at a cost Dammone, “on Planet Mozzarella of around £500,000 to handle 85 every day counts”. covers; serving upwards of 1,500 The same importer brings in his meals a week. favourite dry pasta, from Mastro Then, lunch over, we’re off to Pastaio in Torre Annunziata near the smaller salumeria, or ItalianNaples, which is currently exclusive to style deli, which was bolted on to Salvo’s in the UK. the business about seven years Pasta is “soul food”, says ago. Here, we sit down with deli Dammone, stroking a pack of Mastro manager Nick Harvey for two-andPastaio as if it were Blofeld’s cat. “It’s a-half hours of inspirational food very important. We call pasta this chat, punctuated by some glorious good ‘pasta della dominica’ – Sunday Anglo-Italian expletives. Throughout pasta – because on Sunday nights it’s our conversation both men do time for a treat.” that thing that makes all the best Harvey adds: “Gip has told me delis great: they it’s false economy Sometimes we’re constantly leap up eating cheap pasta to grab tasters as because there’s waiting for anchovies they wax lyrical nothing in it. But to come in and the about the products this,” he points to guy will say, ‘I can’t on their shelves, a pack of Mastro let you have them for like wasabi-hot Pastaio’s paccheri a couple of weeks – mostarda from ondulati, which Cremona; mild, are large, ridged they’re still curing’. creamy Tonde tubes of pasta that de Spagna olives supplied by Gusto flatten to thick, meaty rectangles in Campania; a truffle honey imported the cooking, ”this is like eating steak.

by Stefano Vallebona in London, It’s great seeing people’s faces the served on a young, mild pecorino. first time they come back after trying Vallebona also supplies a something like this.” “wonderful, soft, fragrant and From pasta we get on to the spicy” Tuscan Finocciona Piccante whole question of ‘fresh’ food and salami, while Salvo’s buffalo those fundamental gaps in attitude mozzarella, produced by Allevatori between Italy and the UK. Take

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mozzarella, for example. Dammone, while raised in England, spent a few years in Italy with his dad in the early 1970s. “We had a pizzeria in Salerno. The mozzarella man would come in and say, ‘How much do you want today?’ And if there was anything left from the previous day he’d take it away again.”

He continues: “We don’t consider mozzarella fresh if it has been chilled. That’s the starting point.” If you want mozzarella that will last three weeks, he says, you’re looking at an essentially different product. “We get ours once a week, and I pay a lot more for the weight of water that it arrives in, to give me... what, one extra day’s freshness? Italians are crazy!”

Any deli owners who have not yet added some kind of café or restaurant offer these days probably wish they had. But at Salvo’s, the deli evolved from the eatery, not the other way round, and its range is inextricably linked to the southern Italian dining experience the family wants to create.

“We’d had Salvo’s restaurant for nearly 30 years,” Dammone tells me, “and because it was so hard to get some of the Italian stuff we needed, I started toying with the idea of a little shop

like the ones we used to have in Italy.

We said, ‘Why not open a shop, and provided it brings in enough money to pay the wages and pay off the loan, that’s all we need’.”

The salumeria and café has a split personality. It’s a deli-café in the day but in the evening becomes a 40-seater restaurant, serving a more homely style of food than the original Salvo’s down the road.

“The main thing about the evenings here is that it’s no-choice dining,” says Dammone. “It’s that bolshie, Italian thing: we always think we know best. So from Wednesday to Friday we do six courses, and the weekend it’s 10 courses. We only do one sitting per night – we’re not interested in turning tables – and we don’t tell them what they’re going to get until they arrive. It’s just like those little hole-in-the-wall restaurants people tell you they discovered in the south of Italy.”

The evening menus are often themed and the dishes follow what’s in season, all of which provides cross-selling opportunities with the deli. “The cime di rapa is figuring at the moment, but next week we have monk’s beard arriving – a bit like samphire, with an iodine taste – and we’ll be using that for about a month. The

lemon cake we’re doing at the moment is amazing KS because we’re using MUST STOC Tuscan lemons from the Amalfi Piccante soft Finocchiona coast.” bona ) salami (Valle lla Stacked on the counter ani Mozzare alini Casert uf pania). m Ca to when FFD visits are various Allevatori B us Campania (G di bufala di products linked to that .a. Tonde de l Belice (a.k week’s Campania regional Nocellara de n olives menu. They include jars Spagna) gree Spilinga – a ia ’Nduje di of plump anchovies from br la Ca ga te Bot able salami Cetara, a coastal village y spicy spread uits in heav between Naples and Salerno. emona – fr n) ila tarda di Cr M os of M i in “It’s been renowned for pesce p (Giustiv mustard syru uce azzurro [oily ‘blue fish’ like e tomato sa ready-mad Pomodorino catering tins) sardines and anchovies] since g (sold in 800 Roman times, and if they ano duro o pasta di gr ai were good enough for the Mastro Past ia) Romans, they’re good enough e oil (Enotr Planeta oliv d for me. The reason these are anchovies an ed tara salt a) ni pa Ittical of Ce m quite big is that they’re barely Ca ici (Gusto colatura d'al cured at all – they’re almost raw. Sometimes we’re waiting for them to come in, and the guy will say, ‘I can’t let you have them for a couple of weeks – they’re still curing’.”

Alongside the anchovies, Salvo’s sells bottles of Colatura di Alici di Cetara – Dammone calls it “elixir of anchovy”, then says it’s actually the “refined drainings” from barrels in which anchovies not satisfying.” And he tells me, are salted. “It’s a distant cousin of colourfully: “A lot of supermarket garam, which is fermented fish stuff is f*ckery. The ‘choice’ that they sauce. are talking about is varying degrees “We do an amazing linguine of sh*te.” with a raw sauce. While the pasta’s He contrasts Britain and the US, cooking – and this is the only time “where kids are bouncing off the ever that we don’t put salt in with walls and are unhappy with their it – we put a tablespoon of the body shape”, with his country of anchovy elixir, a tablespoon of origin. “Go to the south of Italy and olive oil, a few cloves of garlic and watch La Passeggiata [the Italian’s a couple of pomadorini [cherry ritual evening walk]. You see people tomatoes] in a bowl, almost like of all ages, shapes and sizes and the a salad, maybe with an anchovy common denominator is that they all and a couple of stoned olives. We look bloody amazing. That’s because drain the pasta, throw it in with the they feel good, and that’s because ingredients and the heat of the pasta they eat well. It’s not drugs.” does amazing things with the garlic If you eat well, he says, “there and tomato. You don’t eat the garlic might be some slight side-effect of cloves – they just perfume it.” smugness” but at least when you He adds: “It’s Neapolitan look in the mirror you’ll like what fast food, and it’s all about the you see. ingredients.”

Dammone doesn’t analyse Salvo’s isn’t all about Italian the sales split between retail and produce, however. It has close links foodservice because he doesn’t find with local farms and community the distinction helpful. “When we food projects in Yorkshire, and hosts first started the salumeria and café ‘zero miles’ dinners in support of we found it so hard to break the Caring for Life, a charity that runs £3,000-a-week barrier. But in the horticulture and farming projects to past four years we’ve quadrupled create work for vulnerable people. that.” They’ve achieved this by Dammone is appalled that worrying less about retail discplines our government, “who are meant and more about communicating the to be looking after us”, does not sheer joy of great food. Any products educate the public on the role of available in supermarkets have been quality, fresh, minimally processed ruthlessly culled, and Dammone ingredients in a healthy diet. Instead, regularly takes his staff to visit it lets supermarkets and their suppliers in Italy so they can really sell mass-market suppliers take the lead those back-stories to the shopper. on “healthy eating”. “Why don’t “For the first few years we we have a food tsar telling people were fumbling around, trying to be that it’s not about ‘fat’, it’s about shopkeepers,” says Dammone. “But processing? Good food satisfies we’re not shopkeepers – we’re food you, so you don’t need as much. people.”

If you eat processed food you eat until you’re stuffed, because it’s www.salvos.co.uk Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012

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BETTER RETAILING Tuesday June 26 2012 Pavilions of Harrogate, Yorkshire Event Centre Sponsored by

Make more of your visit to the Harrogate Speciality Food Show.

A one-day workshop that will help refresh & renew your retail skills and increase profitability. Spend Monday at the Speciality Food Show and then join industry experts the next day to swap ideas, generate merchandising tips and tackle issues specific to your store.

You can even join us for an informal drink on the Monday evening.

Who should attend?

• Deli, farm shop and food hall owners and managers looking for inspiration and ideas to generate revenue in their store •A nyone involved in fine food and drink looking to exchange ideas and debate the hot topics in our sector

What’s included Better Finance. Charlie Turnbull, ex-accountant and owner of Turnbulls Deli, looks at good practice in running your shop and explores margin, cash flow and all things financial

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Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012

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Pure, Chilled or Frozen Lemon, Lime & Orange Zest & Juices

can be supplied as non-organic, organic or wax-free

Unit 4G, The Leathermarket, Weston Street, London SE1 3ER

Tel: 020 7407 3200 Fax: 020 7407 5877

www.FrenchFlint.com

• bottles & jars

Produced to order by FA Young Farm Produce Ltd., Timsbury, Bath, Somerset BA2 0FQ

01761 470523 F: 01761 471018 E: info@zumozest.com w: www.zumozest.com

T:

Fine Food Classified 2011:Layout • labelling

• ingredients

• labelling

In a pickle about where to buy your food jars?

Serving chocolatiers for over 40 years

Chocolate � Ingredients � Confectionery and Gift Packaging �

Griottines® and Framboisines® � Chocolate making starter kits �

Then look no further!

• Authorised distributors for Ardagh glass, Allied Glass and Beatson Clark • Nationwide delivery service available • Free samples available • Glass jars, Beer bottles, Food grade pails, Plastic bottles Think SPINKS for high quality glass and plastic containers.

Contact us for further information: Spinks Compak t: 0113 2350662 · e: emma.speight@spinks.co.uk www.spinkscompak.com

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April 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 3

www.keylink.org Tel: 0114 245 5400

Tel: 01603 721804 Mobile: 07711437242 www.fda-packaging.com

Call our sales team on 01963 824464 today to discuss the right classified heading for your equipment, ingredients or services

• packaging

• packaging

• packaging

• refrigeration

Packaging CODING AND MARKING SYSTEMS FOR FOOD AND PHARMACEUTICAL

Foil & PET Diaphragms

New

Paper packaging, labelled and direct print containers

• packaging Tamper Evident Packaging

Tamper evident & film sealable plastic food packaging

Hire

Hire-to-Buy

Reliable leadtimes and service - sensible minimum order size Sizes available from 30ml to 5000ml Visit www.innavisions.com or call us for a brochure TEL: 01886 832283 EMAIL: nick.wild@innavisions.com • refrigeration

Heat seal machines for pots, bottles, trays and ALL types of packaging Low cost hand operated, semi automatic and fully automated systems Specialist suppliers to small & medium sized food companies

BUY ONLINE www.

Refurbished

Offline sleeve and watch strap band feeders Ink jet printers - 5yr warranty on new units Hot Foil & Thermal Transfer Printers Laser coding systems

SiS

Seal-it-Systems

Seal-it-Systems (SIS) Ltd Tel: +44(0)1254 239619 Email: info@seal-it-systems.co.uk Web: www.seal-it-systems.co.uk

• training

FOOD SAFETY

DEPOSITORS & PACKAGING SYSTEMS MEATS/SEAFOODS & READY MEALS Depositors for sauces and dressings Pot fillers and liquid fillers Vertical Form Fill Seal Thermoformers Tray sealers Pumps

At your own premises or in Skipton, North Yorks.

Verner Wheelock Associates 01756 708526 / office@vwa.co.uk

t: 0151 547 6700

www.vwa.co.uk

For more information call 01962 761761 info@printsafe.co.uk www.printsafe.co.uk

Purchase with confidence from a company that has been trading since 1952!

• temperature moitoring

Training from the Guild of Fine Food What will you learn?

1. The five golden rules for increasing deli sales 2. How to select the best cheese and charcuterie 3. How to create the best counter display • ingredients • training 4. How to avoid bad quality cheese and charcuterie 5. How to sell proactively rather than reactively 6. The difference between artisan and mass-produced cheeses and meats through comparative tastings For more information:

Make sure you’re meeting legal requirements for food safety.

Level 2 Food Safety online £25 Level 3 Food Safety online £125 Meat managers hygiene and HACCP training of all levels

parkerspackagingdirect.com

• packaging

Training & Consultancy

E-mail: linda.farrand@finefoodworld.co.uk Tel: 01963 824464 www.finefoodworld.co.uk

• training

Cheese

• washing equipment

Tuesday May 1: • packaging Thursday May 10: Tuesday June 12: Monday June 18: Wednesday June 20:

London* Yarnfield Park, Staffs.

Guild House, Somerset West Retford, Notts.

York

Monday April 30:

London*

Charcuterie

Course costs

Members of The Guild of Fine Food just £70, plus VAT (@ 20%). Non-members £95, plus VAT (@ 20%). *NB. Unfortunately there is a £10 plus VAT (@ 20%) surcharge for London training dates due to higher venue costs.

Vol.13 Issue 3 · April 2012

55

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Join in… www.facebook.com/OlivesEtAl twitter.com/OlivesEtAl 48

April 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 3

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Olives Et Al eat more and live very happily

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