FFD April 2022 by Guild of Fine Food

April 2022 Volume 23 Issue 3 gff.co.uk

Set those tables Prepare for picnickers and outdoor diners with our handy guide

April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

CONTENTS 5

NEWS

10 SHOP TALK 14 OPINION: DIVERSITY IN FOOD & DRINK

While I may not be an epidemiologist or a historian, I have found solace in the things I do understand.

17 CHEESEWIRE By Michael Lane, editor

25 CHARCUTERIE 32 OUTDOOR DINING SPECIAL: OILS & VINEGARS; DRESSINGS & SAUCES; ICE CREAM; BEERS, WINES & SPIRITS; MIXERS & MOCKTAILS 53 FOODSERVICE 57 FARM SHOP & DELI SHOW PREVIEW 59 SHELF TALK 64 DELI OF THE MONTH 71 GUILD TALK

Breakfast time in my household has become like a mash-up of Mastermind and Newsnight (other networks are available), with the added challenge of having to coax my interrogators to eat their cereal. My children are very much in the “endless questions” phase of their development. When I’m not scraping the barrel of my marine life knowledge, I’m often having to tackle how a respiratory illness can grip the world for over two years and, more recently, I’ve had to try to explain a war with seemingly no justification. This has made me realise that so much of our lives are just not that simple. We’re living in era where so many macro events are affecting us – both as humans and business owners – that I feel like going back to bed once the table is cleared in the morning. While I may not be an

epidemiologist or a historian, I have found solace in the things I do understand. Despite all of the world’s complications, retailing remains refreshingly simple at its core. You show people what they think they want and then sell them a load of things they didn’t know they wanted. What’s more, anyone can have a go at this. Even I do occasionally – when retailers I visit ask me for my take on a specific problem. Only the other day, I was making some (solicited) suggestions to one shop owner about the placement of their chillers. Their response was: “Why didn’t I see that?” Yes, I’ve just claimed that retailing is simple, but that doesn’t mean it’s easy. Sometimes it just takes a change of perspective to improve what you do – whether that’s shifting your own or asking someone else for

theirs. Expertise is only useful if it’s shared. We’ve tried to fill this issue of the magazine with as many perspectives as possible – whether that’s advice on how to attract customers as the sun comes out (our cover feature starts on page 32), important changes to employment law (page 13) or an exploration of diversity in the industry (page 14). And, as always, there are countless examples of smart retailing and plenty of new products. Next week, I expect to face a breakfast quiz on inflation, crude oil prices and logistics, so please send me any economics textbook recommendations. In the meantime, remember that it’s important to keep abreast of global news and to understand its impact. But you mustn’t forget about your specialist subject.

April 2022 Volume 23 Issue 3 gff.co.uk

EDITOR’S CHOICE Tom Dale, assistant editor

Ndudu by Fafa Xorla

Set those tables Prepare for picnickers and outdoor diners with our handy guide

Cover photography: Richard Faulks

Xorla - pronounced horla - from Ndudu by Fafa is a smoky BBQ rub that is perfect for meat or fish. Its smoked umami flavour made a rack of pork ribs really come to life in my kitchen. Alongside intense savoury notes, it lends a sweetness and a good touch of smoke, but the highlight is the nuttiness.

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Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

NEWS

Ukraine crisis set to add further cost and supply pressure to food & drink By Greg Pitcher

Russia’s invasion of Ukraine will add to the cost and supply pressures already being felt by fine food retailers across the UK, key figures have warned. Representatives of delis, bakers and farm shops said the economic consequences of the conflict would reach far beyond the borders of the countries directly involved. Since Vladimir Putin’s forces entered Ukrainian soil in late February, relations between Moscow and the West have broken down and oil and gas prices have risen sharply. Nick Carlucci, director at Berkshire-based importer and distributor Tenuta Marmorelle, stressed that the war represented a truly “horrific situation” for those directly involved. Beyond the humanitarian crisis was a series of challenges for European businesses, he added. “The main issue for us

Russia and Ukraine make up almost a third of global wheat exports

is that Ukraine is one of the largest producers of sunflower oil in the world,” he added. “Our suppliers use it to preserve antipasti in jars. At the moment they still have stock but they have warned us it could become a problem.” With Italy highly reliant on gas supplies from Russia, the cost of drying pasta has almost trebled in recent weeks, Carlucci said. Meanwhile, UK Flour Millers director Alex Waugh said Russia and Ukraine accounted for almost a third

Waitrose and Tesco launch pointof-difference displays in-store Last month – to mark B Corp Month – Waitrose launched areas dedicated to ethical businesses bearing the certification in 187 of its stores and promoting its online B Corp shop. Under the banner ‘BE THE CHANGE’, the retailer showcased the B Corp-certified products it sells in aisle-end displays including messaging explaining what the certification means. Waitrose launched its online B Corp shop in 2019 with it now boasts hundreds of ethically certified lines. Meanwhile, Tesco launched a craft coffee fixture, collecting its range of coffee challenger brands

that produce ethicallysourced, specialty-grade coffee, aiming to provide a point of difference in the category in-store. Coffee from Löfbergs, Littles, Roastworks, Rokit and multiple awardwinning SKUs from Change Please. waitrose.com tesco.com

of global wheat exports. “Although much of what they produced from the harvest in 2021 has already been shipped, there is some that remains in store,” he said. “There are also medium-term concerns about the prospects for the next harvest in August/ September and what may be available. The price of wheat on the London futures market rose 28 per cent between 16th February and 3rd March, Waugh added. As well as feeding directly into

bread, wheat is critical in the preparation of eggs, meat and other food, he pointed out. George Fuller, chairman of the Craft Bakers Association, said the cost of bread and baked products was “likely to increase”, particularly at the next harvest. “We may also see some disruption to the supply chain, sooner rather than later, if stored wheat is not exported from Ukraine or Russia,” he added. Barbara Cossins, proprietor at Dorset’s Rawston Farm Butchery, said she had seen a “definite” impact on demand since Moscow’s invasion of Ukraine affected pump prices on UK forecourts. “The fuel crisis is having an effect,” she said. “People do one shop at a supermarket rather than drive around smaller businesses. Customers are telling us they are watching their fuel use.”

Belfast deli owner working ‘non-stop’ to help refugees The Polish owner of a Belfast deli has devoted her time and business to collecting donations for Ukrainian refugees. Monika Rawson, who owns Smokey Deli, told FFD her life had been turned upside down in the weeks since the Russian invasion. Born in Poland, Rawson has family living across the border in Ukraine and found the scenes of the conflict extremely upsetting. “The first few days I just cried,” she said. After seeing social media posts about supplies being taken from Belfast to Poland for refugees fleeing the violence, she decided to use her position in the community to help. “I thought if we fill half a van then it would be worth it; in the end, we loaded a full van from Smokey Deli alone,” she said. “People came from all over after hearing what we’re doing.” Regular customers have volunteered to help sort donations after the volume became overwhelming. “Since 25th February my life hasn’t stopped,” said Rawson. “The phone rings a hundred times, there are non-stop messages. She pledged to keep collecting for “as long as it is needed”.

WHAT THEY ARE SAYING ABOUT... HOW THE WAR WILL EFFECT PRICES NICK CARLUCCI TENUTA MARMORELLE

“Costs are going up on everything from pasta to empty pallets. On 1st March we put our prices up – on average about 5%. It’s the first time we’ve increased them in three years. Everyone knows it is a difficult situation, though, and we’re doing our best.”

GEORGE FULLER CRAFT BAKERS ASSOCIATION

“The cost of bread and bakery is likely to increase due to a number of factors. The cost of wheat combined with the significant rise in energy prices will mean that craft bakers will have to recover these additional costs by increasing the cost of bread and bakery.”

BARBARA COSSINS RAWSTON FARM BUTCHERY

“Ukraine is one of the strongest agricultural producers in Europe. With the Russian invasion, this has all changed for the foreseeable future as borders are closed and getting these commodities into the UK is currently impossible. In the UK, our shelves will be emptier and our prices will be higher.” Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

NEWS

CYBER CRIME

Groundbreaking research reveals true value of Britain’s farm shops to economy By Greg Pitcher

The UK boasts more than 1,500 farm shops with a combined annual income of £1.4 billion, groundbreaking research has revealed. Harper Adams University found that the sector had blossomed during the two years of the pandemic and now employed 25,000 workers. The research, commissioned by the Farm Retail Association, represents the first known study of its kind. Nine in 10 farm shops surveyed by the university’s academics said their sales figures had grown since 2019, and two in three expected further growth this year. Alastair Boot, senior lecturer in food retail and marketing at Harper Adams, told FFD the scale of the industry revealed by the research “knocked my socks off”. “My personal opinion

Farm shops contribute £1.4bn to the economy, says new research

is that this is the largest the sector has ever been,” he added. “Two-thirds of respondents opened in the last 20 years.” But the most “impressive” element of farm retail was the benefit it offered to local communities, said Boot. “Staff are local as are the majority of suppliers – on average, farm shops had 50 suppliers, 30 of which they counted as local.” He added that there was scope for further growth. “I am confident more

Sustainable Irish food & drink producers in the spotlight Bord Bia (the Irish Food Board) has partnered with Amazon Prime’s The Three Drinkers to showcase premium quality, sustainable Irish food and drink producers in their new show which launched on St Patrick’s Day. Now in its second season, The Three Drinkers in Ireland will take a slightly different tack from the previous show, discovering some of Ireland’s oldest and most influential distilleries as well as taking a deeper dive into the country’s food scene. The Three Drinkers are food and drinks experts, writers and broadcasters Helena Nicklin and Aidy Smith, who are joined by a diverse revolving roster of 6

April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

‘third drinker’ guests. With the new season’s focus on Irish food & drink, Bord Bia hoped to showcase some of the nation’s sustainable producers, including Great Taste Golden Fork-winning Carlingford Oysters, Blackshell Mussel Farm, Five Farms Irish Cream Liquor and Cashel Blue Farmhouse. Donal Denvir, General Manager of Bord Bia UK comments, “Ireland is renowned for quality food and drink that is sustainably produced, so we’re really excited to be able to champion some of our fantastic Irish producers on the show. All producers chosen go to great lengths to be as sustainable as possible.”

farms will diversify into retail, particularly when they see the growth and job satisfaction it offers. “Also, convenience aspects such as click and collect are growing, and so is the number of cafes.” The greatest challenge cited by established farm retailers was attracting talent or skilled staff – and Boot called for action to remedy this problem. He said working at farm shops meant people were “involved in good businesses contributing

good things to local economies” and added that there was more scope to deliver “really good service” at an independent retailer than at a high street chain. “That is a good place to work,” said Boot. “We all have a duty to spread that positive message.” Farm Retail Association chairman Rupert Evans said the total income of the sector was “absolutely staggering”. “We knew anecdotally that consumers were preferring to shop and support local more than ever before – and this data confirms just that,” he added. “Trust was built up through the pandemic as farm retailers could adapt quickly to introduce Covid-safe measures and people felt safer shopping in smaller environments as opposed to large supermarkets. We think the pandemic will have changed shopping habits for many.”

IN BRIEF The results are in for the British Pie Awards 2022, with the vegan Gluten Free Mooless Pie by Pieminister of Bristol coming out on top in a year that attracted a record 976 entries. britishpieawards. co.uk Wholesaler Cotswold Fayre last month launched its B Corp Accelerator Programme, designed to inform and help its suppliers through the B Corp accreditation process. cotswold-fayre.co.uk Adding to its outlets in King’s Cross, The City and Soho, Lina Stores new operation in Marylebone is now set to open in June, after previously being due to open in spring. linastores.co.uk

Tributes paid to ‘force of nature’ Judy Bell MBE Tributes have been paid to the popular Yorkshire cheesemaker Judy Bell MBE, founder of Shepherds Purse Cheeses, who passed away last month, aged 71. Bell was a pharmacist before launching Shepherds Purse in 1988 to diversify the family farm and boost income and ran the famous artisan creamery until 2012 when she handed the reins to daughters Caroline Bell and Katie Matten. The company said in an official statement: “It is with great sadness that we share the news of the passing of our founder, the mother of Shepherds Purse, Judy Bell MBE. “Judy was all things

to us at Shepherds Purse, our founder, our colleague and friend. Loving wife to Nigel, proud mum of Caroline, Katie, Justin and the late Jonathan, and a devoted and proud grandmother. A true force of nature.” Bell won many accolades during her

time as a cheesemaker – and as an advocate for independent business and Yorkshire food & drink – including World Cheese Awards Super Golds and most recently The Guild of Fine Food Lifetime Achievement Award at last year’s Great Taste. MD of the Guild John Farrand said: “Judy Bell has been a wonderful constant in my food and drink consciousness all my adult life. “It is a mark of her generous soul that she spent as much time helping others get on in our trade as she did with her own family business. “Judy blazed a trail for women, not just in cheese but in speciality food & drink generally.”

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NEWS

Last year’s top farm retail businesses announced at FRA awards ceremony By Tom Dale

The winners of this year’s Farm Retail Awards have been announced, with the West Country boasting many of the successful businesses. The FRA’s celebration of rural retail excellence returned to an in-person ceremony at the Hilton Gateshead in Newcastle. Among the winners was wholesaler and distributor Cotswold Fayre’s first foray into retailing, Flourish Foodhall & Kitchen, which picked up the Rising Star of the Year trophy after being open for just eight months, beating off competition from Lawn Farm Shop in Wiltshire. The food hall, based in Saltford, near Bath, opened in June 2021 and has a strong focus on sustainability and ethical business. Flourish impressed the judges with its focus on

Study to probe labour shortage A major new study aims to shed light on the current labour and skills shortages responsible for the staffing crisis in the farming industry. Farm employers are needed to help researchers look at the issues of current skill levels, critical skills gaps and priority training needs within agriculture. The University of Exeter study wants to analyse the changes taking place in the UK farming industry, including opportunities and constraints to growth. It will also look at how these might influence farm employers’ skills needs over course of the next 10 years. Interested parties should email: LabourSurvey@exeter. ac.uk

Flourish Foodhall won the Rising Star of the Year Award

attention to detail and retail layout, stating that staff had created an environment that their customers love. Also among the winners was The Lambing Shed in Knutsford, Cheshire, which picked up the award for Café/Restaurant of the Year, with the judges noting the high quality of food and service. The panel also hailed its café as a “superb example of a business which understands its customer profile and then delivers a

range of food and service to meet its customer’s needs”. The Cheshire business pipped Nottinghamshire’s The Harley Café (Welbeck Farm Shop) and Bath’s Newton Farm Foods to the foodservice gong, but the latter did not return to Somerset empty handed. The Newton St Loe retailer was handed the Small Farm Shop of the Year award after wowing judges with its impressive displays and high level of customer

DOWN ON THE FARM Long Eaton Farm Shop opened in Long Eaton, Nottinghamshire, at the beginning of February. The owners began with a simple vision of a zero-waste farm shop, but the offer has already grown to include fresh fruit and vegetables, spices, jams and sauces, household products, pet food and treats, garden planters, garden seating, coffee and cakes. A deli counter which will be filled with cheese and meats, is the next feature to be installed on the site. The owners are also conducting market research – listening to what their customers want and adding the most requested items to their shelves.

IN BRIEF

service as well as its focus on local products. This year’s winner of the Large Farm Shop of the Year was praised for its ‘wow factor’. The judges felt Darts Farm, in Topsham, Devon, was a true “destination”, offering a large range of produce without losing its focus or customer perception. Two consultancies – Malcolm Scott Consultants and The Flying Fork – picked up joint honours in the Supplier of the Year category, as judges praised both businesses for their enthusiasm, helpfulness and knowledge, and commenting that both would be a good choice for budding businesses. Meanwhile, owner of Farndon Fields in Market Harborough, Kevin Stokes was handed the FRA’s Lifetime Achievement Award. farmretail.co.uk

Brent House Farm Milk Store near East Brent in North Somerset closed temporarily in mid-February and was upgraded to a new farm shop with a tearoom. The popular fresh milk vending machine which supplies fresh, free-range milk from the farm’s herd is still there, but the shop has expanded with even

A delegation of Estonian farmers has travelled to Wales to see how beef and lamb produced ‘the Welsh Way’ has an international reputation for farm-tofork traceability. meatpromotion.wales Research by The Food Foundation shows that by reducing meat intake by a third, Brits could help reverse the population decline of up to 536 endangered UK species.

The latest from farm shops across the country more local produce, fruit, vegetables and meat and a coffee, cake and pasty corner.

Brent House Farm Shop

The Rhug Estate has celebrated 10 years of producing renewable energy on-site. One solar panel on the farm shop roof in 2012 has grown to 11 solar schemes, two wind turbines, hydro schemes, heat pumps, and a biomass boiler.

Just off the A418, between Aylesbury and Leighton Buzzard, Wild Raven Farm Shop & Tea Rooms is expanding and diversifying. The farm shop and tea rooms have been expanded and a new barn opened on the 12th March that will house local independent businesses, and a florist, pet supplier and a refillable/zero-waste store are being sought for the

new space to complement the fresh fruit, vegetables and local meat sold in the main farm shop. wildraven.co.uk A new business – Newlands Farm Shop – will be opening its doors in the Derbyshire village of Hilton after it was granted planning permission by the district council. The farm’s owners have stated that over 60% of the shop’s stock will be from the farm, with the remaining 40% being sourced from within a 10mile radius.

In association with

Fabulous Farm Shops fabulousfarmshops.co.uk

Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

SHOP TALK IF I’D KNOWN THEN WHAT I KNOW NOW... CHARLIE WALFORD, owner, Upton Bridge Farm Shop, near Langport, Somerset Six years ago, I left a career in recruitment in Singapore to return to the family farm. I soon decided that the sensible approach to making some money from our pedigree beef herd and arable enterprise was to remove as many middlemen as possible. I started selling meat online but courier costs and damage in transit were wiping out any profit. So, I began exploring how to convert a renovated cattle stall into a shop. The pandemic threw a spanner in the works but the shop eventually opened in July 2021. Initially my vision was for a ‘poor man’s’ Fortnum & Mason. Then I realised that would probably turn people off and reinforce the perception that farm shops are expensive. So, I focused on what I like best and started with stocking the ingredients of a full English breakfast. I added wine, beer and cider because I like them too, and cheese because we’re in a good area for it. A local baker supplies fresh bread, sausage rolls, pies and tray-bakes. I had an idea that the meat would be cut in front of customers but, when I realised that butchers are like hens’ teeth, I abandoned that. All our meat is pre-cut, vacuum-packed and displayed in two open-fronted chillers that allow customers to choose their own packs. The downside is they cost a fortune to keep cool in summer. Storing stock in a closed chiller overnight has brought the bills down by £100 a month, and I will switch to glass-fronted chillers as soon as I can. I started the business on a shoestring budget of £15,000. The chillers were secondhand and the one item I splashed out on was the coffee machine. I negotiated an agreement with the supplier to return it if it didn’t pay for itself in two years. Fortunately, it will. I also bought a Pergal milk dispensing machine, which has proved a great way of bringing people into the shop. The hardest challenge has been balancing having fresh stock on shelf against feeding old goats’ cheese and pak choi to the cattle. There seems to be no rhyme or reason as to why the shop is busy some days and quiet on others. I am forever being asked: “do you have a café?” How we physically expand is a bit of a headache, however, so we may need to look at outdoor dining. My rough business plan is that the set-up costs are paid for within the first year and that ultimately the shop will make enough to cover the children’s school fees. We are only eight months in and so far it is going in the right direction. Interview Lynda Searby Photography Michael Lane

April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

CONFESSIONS OF A DELI OWNER ANONYMOUS TALES FROM BEHIND THE COUNTER LAST MONTH I explained my point of view on the importance of good neighbours. If you all offer complementary services and appeal to similar demographics, you can create something which benefits all. Customers get a buzz from your street, your neighbourhood, your town. So, this month, let’s look at those bad neighbours. For many years we had a serious problem with a hotel in town. It was a “sports bar” and a half-way house for people coming out of detention. One guy even used our toilets for his daily wash. He did his best to keep tidy, but that wasn’t good enough for my yummy mummies with their precious toddlers in McLaren buggies in for a cappa-frappa-mocha-soya-ccino. He had to be stopped. Fortunately, the hotel was eventually developed. Unfortunately, they put in a posh coffee and cocktail bar. Fortunately, the service remains unbelievably poor. As I mentioned last month, there are a few other cafés and coffee shops to contend with around us but their offers and approaches are different enough from ours. As for the farm shop just outside town, I have slightly more mixed

MODEL RETAILING

Isn’t it nice that it’s finally lively in here?

Not sure about this ice cream counter. It’s really disturbing my peace – and the oldies.

We had a serious problem with a hotel in town. It was a half-way house for people coming out of detention. feelings there. Thankfully for me, they are blessed with poor management and yet many of my customers shop there. It could be a gold mine, a sort of sleeping giant – and I really hope it doesn’t wake up. I’ve heard a few stories of shopkeepers who have had members of staff open up their own places not far from them. It hasn’t happened to me but I know it really pissed them off. If it gets really threatening, many business owners I know have rung up key suppliers and told them: “it’s

them or us”. The established business usually wins out and the start-up suddenly can’t get hold of the rep. Then there are those people who threaten to be bad neighbours. They wander around your store asking interesting questions, saying they’ve wanted to open a deli or farm shop just like yours, and it’s all very flattering. I’m guessing it’s happened to most of you. My view is always to let them go ahead. “Take some pictures, I don’t mind. Unless you intend to open within 20 miles of me. In which case, get out. Life is hard enough, thanks.” The polite version I often trot goes along something like: “It’s a hard business – are you sure? Look for a good-sized market town without a deli, maybe buy an existing business to avoid those growing pains. Do you have kids or a partner? You’ll never see them again.” Maybe one day there will be enough demand for lots of small indies and lots more punters making the weekly pilgrimage to the cheese counter for something for the weekend. Until then, I like my neighbours selling something else to my jealously guarded flock of foodies.

SOLVING EVERYDAY SHOPKEEPING DILEMMAS. IN MINIATURE. Don’t worry everyone. From next week, I’m getting rid of that tinned rubbish and getting fresh fish in!

Can’t I just have the deli I want to have?

I only come here for the tinned tuna

FFD says: The short answer is: no. Your business may not have grown into what you imagined it would be but it’s actually more important to look at it from your customers’ perspective. Will they like the changes you’re thinking of making? If you keep customers happy then they’ll come back and spend again – and again. It’s always worth asking them what they want and like. With kind permission of Geobra Brandstätter Stiftung & Co. KG, Germany. PLAYMOBIL is a registered trademark of Geobra Brandstätter Stiftung & Co. KG, for which also the displayed PLAYMOBIL toy figures are protected.

Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

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April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

SHOP TALK WHAT’S TRENDING

CODE OF PRACTICE

NICK BAINES KEEPS YOU UP TO DATE WITH THE NEWEST DISHES, FLAVOURS AND INNOVATIONS IN FOOD & DRINK

Technical and regulatory advice from the Guild of Fine Food’s Assured Code of Practice for Deli Retailing

You must only use packaging materials that are suitable for food

Expert’s view PAULA BAILEY OF LAW FIRM HOWES PERCIVAL OUTLINES FOUR UPCOMING CHANGES TO EMPLOYMENT LAW Sexual harassment in the workplace A new duty on employers will be introduced to prevent sexual harassment and will support further protections from third-party harassment at work. There is also a suggestion that the time limit to bring a claim for sexual harassment at work under the Equality Act may be extended from three months to six months. Tipping in the hospitality sector The Government is bringing in new laws to make it illegal for employers to withhold tips from workers. The rules are designed so workers retain their tips on a “fair and transparent basis”. Employers will be required to have a written policy on how tips are distributed, and to keep a record of how previously received tips were dealt with. A new statutory Code of Practice covering this is expected to be introduced in 2022, replacing the existing voluntary Code.

Cross-contamination controls: Good design, size and layout of a food premises is vital for the control of cross-contamination. The positioning of vacuum packing equipment and packaging for ready-toeat foods needs careful planning and consideration. The FSA advises that the business operator should undertake a risk assessment to decide the controls necessary to minimise the risk of cross contamination and ensure food safety. l More information can be found at: food.gov.uk/sites/default/files/media/ document/vacpacguide.pdf

The guide is available in PDF format and is free for Guild members. For non-members, it costs £250+VAT. To request a copy of the Code of Practice, or for further information, email support@gff.co.uk

Carer’s leave Legislation is set to be introduced giving a right to leave for employees with long-term caring responsibilities, consisting of up to five working days of unpaid leave per year. This right would be from ‘day one’ of employment. However, to take the new carer’s leave, it has been suggested that employees will be required to give notice of at least twice the length of the notice requested, plus one day. Neonatal leave This new type of leave would take the form of an additional week away from work for every week that a parent’s baby is in neonatal care, with a maximum of 12 weeks’ leave being permitted. Employees would be entitled to neonatal leave from day one of employment. l For more information on employment law visit: howespercival.com/services/ employment-and-hr-

Milo Brown Roulote

All food contact packaging such as vacuum bags should be sourced from reputable and approved suppliers. You must only use packaging materials that are suitable for food and you should ask your supplier to provide you with a written specification for all the types of packaging materials you use. The packaging specification should give you concise, detailed information about the material you are buying. This may include legal aspects such as chemical migration testing results or food contact approval. This information is vital to ensure the packaging is suitable for the types of food you are packaging and for the vacuum pack machine you are using. It is also important to update the packaging specification with any changes to the packaging material.

Incoming checks: Packaging materials should be subjected to similar goods-inwards inspection and checked for compliance with specifications. Checks should also be made on the condition of it, to ensure it is free from contamination and signs of infestation. Packaging should not be used until all incoming checks have been completed.

@willys_pies

This month we take a look at... ...vacuum packing

1 Portuguese cuisine Beyond the pastel de nata, Portugal never really got much of a culinary look in. However, with restaurants like Bar Duoro and Casa Do Frogo now expanding, attention is shifting. As well as Portuguese recipes infiltrating mainstream food media, chef Nuno Mendez will imminently open Lisboeta, a restaurant that will serve as a love letter to Lisbon. Bar Duoro’s pop-up Roulote will also return to festivals this year serving its classic Portuguese bifana sandwiches and muchlauded octopus rolls. 2 The new pie hype For many years restaurant food trends have threaded a line of curiosity through Asia. However, we now have a burgeoning trend following that great British institution, the pie. Will Lewis is holed up in London Fields, under the name Willy’s Pies, turning out some of the most soughtafter pies in the city, with fillings such as Toulouse sausage cassoulet, and spiced lamb mince with braised greens and bechamel. It seems new life is being breathed into the city’s iconic dish. 3 Prebiotic soda Seltzers and kombuchas are on the rise as the pursuit of grown-up soft drinks intensifies. As well as providing an alternative to alcohol, there are brands upping the ante with seltzers injected with prebiotics to promote gut and brain health. Prebiotics are plant fibres that act as food for the good bacteria in your gut. Vina Prebiotic Soda in the US is leading the charge in this arena alongside Poppi, which makes flavours including strawberry lemon, raspberry rose, and watermelon. Closer to home, Moju has just launched a raspberry, lemon and baobab prebiotic shot to its line-up.

Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

OPINION

Embracing difference FOOD WRITER AND CONSULTANT MALLIKA BASU EXPLORES CULTURAL SENSITIVITY AND DIVERSITY IN THE FOOD & DRINK INDUSTRY – AN AREA WHERE THERE’S CERTAINLY MORE WORK TO BE DONE BY PRODUCERS AND RETAILERS HAVE YOU SEEN the meme of the Happy Ramadan banner hanging above an alcohol promotion in a supermarket? Did you know that only an estimated 2% of the UK’s food & drink businesses are black-owned? Have you ever tried Gujarati curry paste – supposedly inspired by a cuisine that doesn’t use cooking sauces? When it comes to cultural sensitivity and diversity, there is still a lot to be learned in the UK food & drink world. Independent retailers and smaller brands are adept at translating trends into products for discerning customers, and the mainstreaming of diverse cultures means we now have a world of opportunities to showcase different tastes and flavours. However, that world has also seen some sweeping changes in recent times. Global movements like Me Too and Black Lives Matter have brought injustices to the fore while conflicting opinions on issues, ideologies and national identity get played out angrily online. In this environment, every organisation, brand and business has a role to play in setting wrongs right and addressing injustice and lack of opportunity. Representation is low. As stated, just 2% of the UK’s 7,400-plus food & drink businesses are black-owned, with no more than three black-owned brands having national distribution. The barriers are many, including lack of access to funding. While this is a larger socio-economic issue, some companies have found ways to improve the environment for entrepreneurs from minority backgrounds. There is Add Psalt, founded by the UK MD of Innocent Sam Akinluyi, which specifically champions and helps black-owned food & drink to overcome these barriers. More of these kinds of initiatives are needed, though. Then there is the challenge of working sensitively with the food and flavours of other cultures. How do you commercialise from a culture in a way that doesn’t ‘other’, reduce or offend the very community you are profiting from? Attempts are often mired in lack of understanding, ignorance and – increasingly – the fear of getting it wrong. A shift in mindset starts with 14

April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

understanding bias. Looking for similarity and familiarity is a basic human instinct – it helps us makes sense of the world – but problems arise when it colours our judgement. Attitudes and opinions that sometimes date back to a colonial past often get in the way of diversity and inclusion. Terms like “exotic fruit” and “ethnic aisles” create accidental othering of minority cultures. Reductive and incorrect terminology can at once erase centuriesold customs and cultures. The “Asian Salad Dressing” is a case in point – where the tastes and techniques of some 48 countries are mixed into oblivion. Consumer desire for convenience and familiar formats can also lead producers to commit crimes against cultural foods. Gujarati curry paste is a fictional creation, because this Indian state doesn’t cook with sauces. Katsu Curry Sauces are also inaccurate because the word ‘katsu’ means ‘breaded cutlet’ in Japanese, and is not a type of sauce. These instances highlight the need for ‘decolonisation’, which is the rebalance of power between a dominant culture and indigenous people. The quickest way to deconstruct colonial attitudes, is to flip them and ask how you would feel if someone did it to you? Colonial attitudes fuel cultural appropriation, the practice of a culture with a colonial past exploiting the products of communities

Diversity and inclusion is a spice, not a seasoning, and the ones who will do it well will bake it in, not view it as the icing on the cake

beyond its own for financial gain. For people from cultures that have been subjected to difficult recent histories, it is a hundred times more significant to have artefacts of their culture repeatedly mistreated. While it may not seem like a major issue to some people, food is a cultural artefact and needs to be treated with care. I should stress that there is nothing wrong with cultural inspiration where there can be – and often is – deep engagement, platforming and support. Underlying all good NPD, of course, is robust research and understanding. Holidays in Kerala do not an expert make, and Google has its limitations. Retailers can play their part in improving things too. They should make a point of asking producers where they get their intelligence. Language and labels can be a particular challenge. There is a difference between Vietnamese, Vietnamese-style and Vietnamese-inspired. Humour can be offensive, especially if it reinforces stereotypes or uses outdated cultural references. While product, shelf and store labels can be limited in space, QR codes and websites can do much to help sensitively communicate the history and inspiration behind a product. This feeds into representation. Diversity and inclusion initiatives should reflect the local community, the shop floor, local and national trends. Can your customers buy products from their own cultures in store? Do they have a say? Diversity without inclusion is like having a seat at the table but not being given a chance to speak. Initiatives need to be embedded across departments with strategic thinking and rigour. The same organisations with diversity tick boxes, and ‘good business credentials’ often get called out online for running roughshod with their product development and marketing (think about the Ramadan meme!). Importantly, diversity and inclusion is about information, knowledge and systemic change. It is not an add-on. To use a food analogy, it’s a spice, not a seasoning, and the ones who will do it well will bake it in, not view it as the icing on the cake. basuconsulting.co.uk

THE

GUIDE TO

THREESOMES

THE THREE BLIND MICE

THE THREE MUSKETEERS

Things went badly for these rodents. With an inability to see clearly, poor organisational skills and a proclivity for inflicting misery, reports are they’ve now found work in the British Home Office.

Did you know this swashbuckling threesome formed France’s first football league? Performances were disappointing, with one draw in a season of losses. Their results were all four-one and one four-all.

B ACO N , L E T T U C E A N D TO M ATO

THE THREE TENORS

S N A P, C R AC K L E A N D P O P

Author of ‘The BLT Cookbook’, Michele Jordan, argues tomato is the key ingredient. Chef Edward Lee believes bacon is. With multiple threesomes lost to infighting, lettuce hope the ingredients find a way to work together.

Pavarotti, Domingo, and Carreras formed an operatic super group that earnt millions for their record label. The Three Tenors were understandably miffed at their own low pay, as three tenners don’t go far at all.

This threesome was once a regular presence on British television screens for Kellogg’s Rice Krispies. It is thought they keep a lower profile now to avoid the attentions of a known cereal killer.

For threesomes that work harmoniously together, whatever the situation, ask us about Miller’s Harvest. Versatile crackers made with a trio of natural ingredients. Available in Three-Seed, Three-Nut and Three-Fruit.

April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

EE TRADITIONAL UNPASTEURISED CHEDDAR

MADE BY US, ON OUR FARM, SINCE 1899

CHEDDAR Exceptional award-winning cheese.

ELITE IMPORTS LTD

www.elite-imports-limited.co.uk 16

April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

CHEESEWIRE

news and views from the cheese counter

Blue mould pioneers turn their hands to developing white varietals By Patrick McGuigan

After discovering how to breed blue cheese moulds, scientists have now turned their attention to getting white moulds in the mood for procreation in a bid to create new strains that could “revolutionise” brie-style cheeses. Penicillium moulds were long thought to reproduce asexually, but Paul Dyer, professor of fungal biology at the University of Nottingham, has discovered a way to naturally breed different strains of Penicillium roqueforti to create completely new blue mould varieties that produce unique flavours, textures and colours in cheese. The process, which has

been licensed by bio-tech start-up Myconeos, is now also being used to develop new strains of the white mould Penicillium camemberti, backed by a £285,000 grant from the Government-funded Innovate UK scheme. Scientists are currently hunting for wild strains of the white mould in dairies that they can cross-breed to create a range of new ripening cultures. “This could revolutionise the taste, texture and even colour of brie and camembertstyle cheeses,” said Dr Jacek Obuchowicz, CEO of Myconeos. “The market for these styles of cheeses is four or five times the size of the blue cheese market, so there is huge potential for growth.”

Myconeos is hoping to develop new strains of Penicillium camemberti

Myconeos is keen to hear from British artisan cheesemakers who are happy for swabs to be taken from their dairies, which could then be bred to create novel strains of Penicillium camemberti. A similar programme was used to develop new types of blue moulds, which led to trials with artisan cheesemakers Moyden’s Hand Made Cheese in Shropshire and Highland Fine Cheeses in Ross-shire. This led to the creation of four new blue mould varieties last year under the Mycoforti brand, including Classic, Mild, Intense and Artisan, which each provide different flavour and texture characteristics in cheese. They are distributed by JKM Foods. A bespoke blue mould was also developed for Moyden’s by isolating a wild strain of blue mould from a hay bale at a Shropshire farm. “We’d like to work with smaller cheesemakers on similar projects with Penicillium camemberti,” said Obuchowicz. “Commercialised strains can lose their vigour, but wild strains are often more active. They could bring interesting new properties.” myconeos.com

Norfolk-based Mrs Temple’s Cheese celebrated its 20th anniversary last month. Dr Catherine Temple, who runs the business in Wighton with husband Stephen, makes cheeses including Binham Blue and Gurney’s Gold, using milk from a herd of Brown Swiss cows.

The Prince of Wales visited Lynher Dairies, which makes Cornish Yarg, last month to unveil a plaque commemorating 30 years of cheese making.

Pevensey Blue

Made by former Neal’s Yard Dairy shop manager Martin Tkalez and his wife Hazel in East Sussex, this new blue is similar to Gorgonzola. Made with pasteurised cow’s milk from Court Lodge Organic Farm and aged for 11 weeks, it’s sweet, milky and chocolatey with a soft texture that becomes progressively gooey with age.

Salted caramel with miso There’s a triangle of sweet, salty and savoury flavours to Pevensey Blue that gives it great structure and length. A dab of salted caramel with miso turbocharges the experience, picking up on the cheese’s three foundations. Made by Craic Foods in Northern Ireland from double cream, miso and treacle, it’s a remarkable spread and condiment that is buttery and sweet with an umami undertow. Orange wine Paleokerisio from Domaine Glinavos is a highly unusual orange, semi-sparkling wine from Ioannina, Greece, that is a great foil for blue cheeses. Made from the indigenous grapes Debina and Vlahiko, the wine is macerated on its skins and then bottled before fermentation has finished resulting in a demi-sec, lightly sparkling wine that is full of tangy, spicy and citrus peel notes. The bubbles bring freshness to the creamy cheese, while it also brings out interesting fruity notes.

NEWS IN BRIEF

Rollright maker King Stone Dairy in Gloucestershire has launched a new cider-washed cheese called Yarlington in collaboration with Herefordshire cider maker Oliver’s and content creator Sam Wilkin. The soft cheese is washed in cider made with Yarlington Mill apples.

THREE WAYS WITH...

Scientists in Italy have discovered four genes that are responsible for making Gorgonzola taste soapy to some people. One in five people are said to experience detergent-like flavours when they taste the cheese with researchers pinpointing four genes (SYT9, PDE4B, AVL9, HTR1B) as being responsible. SYT9 is closely related to a gene that also makes coriander taste soapy to some people.

Pickled walnuts Brighton restaurant Plateau serves Pevensey Blue with pickled walnuts on its menu. The yielding texture of the nuts matches up nicely with the soft texture of the cheese, while their acidity and spice contrasts with the gentle, milky flavour. There’s also a pleasing contrast in colour between the cheese and the dark walnuts. Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

CHEESEWIRE

news and views from the cheese counter

Swaledale moves to cancel PDO after relocating production

BEHIND THE COUNTER TIPS OF THE TRADE Jo Moody, cheesemonger, Newlyns Farm Shop, Hampshire

By Patrick McGuigan

The company that makes Swaledale, one of Britain’s oldest cheeses, has applied to cancel the PDO that protects it, after the business was forced to move from the designated area where the cheese must be made. The Swaledale Cheese Company, which previously made the crumbly cheese in Richmond, North Yorkshire, moved out of the designated area of Swaledale to nearby Leyburn earlier this year, meaning it no longer met the requirements set out in the PDO. As the only producer of the cheese, the company has applied to Defra for its protected status to be cancelled with production continuing as a brand. Owner Richard Darbishire told FFD that once the PDO was cancelled, he planned to apply for PGI status, which is less restrictive. However, following Brexit, this would first involve securing protection under the new UK GI scheme, before applying to the EU.

CHEESE IN PROFILE with Killeen Goat What’s the story?: Having fallen in love with Ireland while travelling, Dutch-born Marion Roeleveld moved to Galway in 2004. She brought her skills as a cheesemaker with her and used them to develop a

April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

The only maker of Swaledale is now based outside of the area defined by the cheese’s PDO

“We bought the company from administration and had a five-year lease on the Richmond premises, but there was a break clause and we were forced to move,” he explained. Darbishire and co-owner Bengt Odner bought the Swaledale Cheese Company from liquidation in 2019. The business was first set up by the Reed family in 1987, who revived gouda-style cheese and set up Killeen Farmhouse Cheese The unique thing about Killeen, is that it uses the milk from the farm’s herd of 200 Saanen goats, rather than cows’ milk found in a traditional gouda. Hailing originally from Switzerland and pure white in colour, the Saanen breed does not fare well in hot, sunny climes, so Ireland is the perfect place for them to flourish. The goats are fed on the fresh-cut grass grown on the 50-acre farm and Farmer Haske makes his own muesli-type meal for them.

production of Swaledale cheese, which dates back to the middle ages. There are two PDOs covering cows’ and ewes’ milk versions of the crumbly cheese, although only the cows’ milk cheese is currently made. “We’re looking at bringing back the sheep’s milk cheese, and also a goats’ milk version,” said Darbishire.

Newlyns’ walk-in cheese room is an impressive space, measuring 5.5m x 4m and filled with around 100 cheeses. COVID made it difficult to have lots of customers in there at once, but now cheesemonger Jo Moody is enticing them to open the door and come into the room once more. “Some are a little hesitant, especially if there is no-one else inside, so I will step outside the room and talk to them,” she says. “Free tasters also help.” Humidity and temperature are regulated at around 78% and 10°C, respectively, with the cheeses displayed unwrapped during the day. At night they are wrapped and the room taken down to 5°C – a system that has been approved by the local EHO. Working in a cold cheese room means the right clothes are essential. “The secret is layers,” reveals Moody. “I wear a thermal base layer, sometimes two, and fleece tights.”

Variations: The farm also produces a fenugreek version of Killeen.

Milk: Goats’, pasteurised.

cut and washed before being hand-moulded and pressed for three hours. After brining, the cheeses are coated in a breathable plastic and left for a minimum of two months and up to 11 months.

How is it made? The goats are milked twice a day, after which the milk is pasteurised, and starter and traditional rennet are added. The curds are

Appearance & texture: Killeen is a smooth, semihard cheese, bright white under its orange rind. The washing of the curds, a key part of the gouda-making

process, helps to remove acidity creating a sweeter, more supple cheese. At three months, the flavour is fresh, clean and milky. The cheese develops more fruitiness as it ages up to nine months, then gradually turns hazelnutty.

Cheesemonger tip: The bright white paste looks stunning on a contrasting cheeseboard. With its mild goat flavour, it is a great gateway cheese and can convert many sceptics. Try it on crackers with a mango chutney. Chef’s recommendation: A versatile cheese that works both in a salad or melted over savoury dishes. Serve with an offdry Gewürztraminer to cut through the richness.

There are a number of ways you can study Level 1 & 2 Academy of Cheese courses: online as self-study eLearning, interactive virtual classes or traditional classes at a venue. Visit academyofcheese.org for more information.

IT’S TEA TIME.

WITH EXTRA FLAVOUR. GRUYERE.COM

April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

Stoney Cross suits a very broad section of customer. Even those that like a strong cheese will enjoy the subtle flavours and the smooth texture of this little cheese.

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April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

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CHEESEWIRE

news and views from the cheese counter

I love working with sheep’s milk – it’s really rich and creamy

“To brie, or not to brie?” Meet the Dorset operation making cheeses with a literary twist Interview by Patrick McGuigan

WHEN PETER MORGAN first considered a move into cheesemaking he wisely asked a few trusted cheese industry veterans for advice. “I spoke to people like Charlie Turnbull (the then owner of Turnbulls Deli in Shaftesbury) and they told me to read as many cheesemaking books as I could and the rest would be bucket science,” he says. “The idea of ‘book and bucket’ really stuck with me.” This was in 2014 when Morgan was working for sheep’s milk yoghurt company Woodlands Dairy in Dorset and was looking for ways to use up surplus milk. The result (after much reading and trial batches in a bucket) was Melbury – an Ossau Iraty-style cheese that is still made today. In 2018, Morgan decided to go it alone, setting up The Book and Bucket Cheese Company at premises in Cranbourne. Sheep’s milk was the obvious place to start, sourced fresh from Burton Dairy in Somerset and Buckshaw’s in Dorset, with the book theme providing a rich vein of cheese names. Some of the first cheeses he made included the feta-style Austen, the Manchego-like Hardy’s and Shakespeare – a sheep’s milk brie. “I love working with sheep’s milk – it’s really rich and creamy,” he says. The product list has grown significantly, with new sheep’s milk cheeses including the Halloumi-style Burns and cream cheese Orwell, plus a range of cows’ milk cheeses. These were developed during lockdown when a local farm found itself with an excess of milk, which was destined for the drain until Morgan stepped in. “They told me they had a couple of

thousand litres that needed using up. It ended up being 10,700 litres in 10 days. I didn’t sleep more than about 12 hours during that time. I was just making cheese constantly. It changed the direction of the business and got us through COVID.” Blyton, a cows’ milk Brie, is now the company’s top seller, plus Cranbourne Blue, Wordsworth Gouda and a curd called Potter. Morgan’s love for NPD has also seen him create bespoke cheeses for The Pig hotel and restaurant group, including a sheep’s curd and Golding – a pressed, aged ricotta salata, named after group chef director James Golding. “I first went down to the Pig on the Beach in Swanage to meet the then head chef Adam Bristow,” says Morgan. “I was so nervous sitting in the garden with my cheeses. But we had a glass of wine and tasted through the range, and he said he’d take the lot.” Morgan supplies The Pig directly, along with around 120 local delis, farm shops and restaurants, while wholesalers Longman’s and Leopard take the cheeses further afield. The Book and Bucket’s smart blue and black branding is also a common sight at local food fairs and markets, where the literaturereferencing cheeses seem to capture people’s imagination. Turnover has grown six-fold from the first year of trading, with the company processing 2,000 litres of cow’s milk and 1,500 litres of sheep’s milk a week. A product range that includes 14 cheeses, plus half a dozen limitededition creations, might sound a lot, but Morgan argues that variety is an important selling point. “It makes it easy for customers in terms of ordering and rotating cheeses on menus,” he says. “I also just really like experimenting with new cheeses.” He’s going to need a bigger bucket.

CROSS

SECTION

Shakespeare

1 This pasteurised, sheep’s milk cheese,

named in honour of the Bard, asks the question, “To Brie, or not to be Brie?” on the label. Cheese judges have answered in the affirmative with the product winning a twostar in Great Taste 2020 and a Gold medal at last year’s World Cheese Awards.

2 The cheese is made with fresh milk, never frozen, with a butterfat content of 6.5-7%, which helps explain its rich, buttery flavour and texture. Each 150g cheese is salted by hand and matured for around six weeks. The paste breaks down rapidly as the cheese matures to create a runny, melted ice cream texture.

Beneath the fluffy white rind, the paste is alabaster and glossy with a clean flavour that takes in double cream and milky sweetness, with a pleasant hint of barnyard at the finish.

thebookandbucketcheesecompany.co.uk

Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

Love Wales

#CaruCymruCaruBlas #LoveWalesLoveTaste For info on Welsh food and drink producers please visit: www.Cywain.Cymru/Our-Producers 22

April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

s Love Taste

Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

Filippo Berio Rustico is a delicious, unfiltered extra virgin olive oil crafted for the olive oil lover. Made without any filtration, tiny pieces of olive give Filippo Berio Rustico a rich green, slightly cloudy appearance with the most delicious, balanced flavour.

TASTING NOTES: This oil has the pleasant,

light aroma of ripe olives and cut grass. On the palate, it has a natural fruity olive flavour with hints of tomato, green leaves, a mild peppery finish with a hint of bitterness and notes of dried fruit. An oil for the aficionado, Rustico is perfect for salad dressings, dipping and marinating.

Lovingly blended by Filippo Berio the UK’s favourite Olive Oil Brand* For more information, please contact ANDY COULT on 07510 591 022 or andy.coult@fberio.co.uk

April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

*Source: Nielsen Olive Oil category VALUE MAT 29.01.22

CUT&DRIED

making more of British & Continental charcuterie

Search for a cure The first salami entrepreneurial pig farmer Jonny Cuddy ever tasted was one that he made himself. But within two years of launching Ispíní Charcuterie he had won a Great Taste Golden Fork, and now he is on a mission to revive his native Northern Ireland’s lost cured meat products By Tom Dale

Janice & Jonny Cuddy

JONNY CUDDY HAD been looking for ways to diversify the family’s business for years – cycling through ideas from making bacon to selling the skins to budding tattooists to practise their art – before landing by chance on making charcuterie. Now, after just six years in business with multiple awards to his name, the Northern Irish charcutier is veering off the well-trodden British-twist-on-continental-classics path to revive some long-lost Northern Irish charcuterie recipes. “What I’ve always wanted to do with Ispíní is make really good food, but I didn’t want to be just another person copying what the French, Spanish and Italians do brilliantly,” says Cuddy. “I wanted to reintroduce what we were doing here years ago.” You may think that a man producing awardwinning charcuterie and opining at length about cures and cuts as Cuddy does with ease would have a long love affair with cured meats, but you’d be mistaken. “The first salami I ever tasted was the first one I made,” he says. “I was a typical Northern Irish lad who thought you couldn’t eat meat that’s not cooked.” His fateful journey into the blossoming British charcuterie scene started with a coffee-table book brought home by his wife Sarah one day in 2015: Pork: Preparing, curing & cooking all that’s possible from a pig. While flicking through, his curiosity was piqued by the section on air-dried sausages; “I read the process of making a salami but didn’t think much more of it,” he says. By chance, the next day, while Cuddy was

representing the pig industry at a National Farmer’s Union event, a food technologist asked attendees if anyone had an idea for a food business. “I put up my hand and said I wanted to make salami,” he says. Regional economic development agency Invest NI was in attendance and offered the would-be charcutier a £5,000 slice of funding to develop the concept. Soon after, Cuddy learned that the School of Artisan Food in Nottinghamshire had recently launched a week-long charcuterie course. He signed up and learned the fundamentals. Then, a tiny butchery unit with equipment included became available to rent in Aughnacloy, near Cuddy’s home, giving him the perfect opportunity to develop his brand while keeping costs low. Cuddy coaxed his sister Janice back from Antipodean bar work to help produce charcuterie in the tiny unit, and Ispíní (Irish for sausage) was born. “I suppose it’s a lot of chances that led us down this road,” says Cuddy. “All the cards just

lined up.” By the following year, the brand was already picking up awards, including the Great Taste Golden Fork for Best Charcuterie Product, and had developed an impressive inaugural range. The brand put forward three products in its first foray into Great Taste – with the Pimenton de la Vera Chorizo and Rosemary & Thyme Bresaola picking up a 2-star and 3-star award in the process respectively, with the latter going on to Golden Fork success. The pair remained in their tiny unit until 2019 when Cuddy renovated an old dairy parlour on the family farm, complete with hanging space for about three tonnes of meat. Cuddy built up a solid base of retail and foodservice customers for his popular charcuterie products across the island of Ireland, and then COVID hit. The loss of the restaurant trade – then accounting for 40% of the business – forced Cuddy to bring forward a long-held plan to open a retail operation to showcase Ispíní’s produce. “I had always wanted somewhere physical to sell our stuff with cheese and everything that makes a nice board. Then, fortunately, just after the pandemic started, a unit came up just up the road in Moira,” he says. The charcutier had noticed that in retail environments which also sold cheese, sales of his products were far higher than in those which did not. “I wanted to have a shop focused on our charcuterie, which was also selling local cheeses and other provisions to showcase the area and CONTINUED ON PAGE 26

Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

CUT&DRIED boost sales of our products. It all ties up,” he says. “I suppose I was one of the only people to open a shop during a lockdown, but we had no choice.” The shop thrived as consumers looked to shop local, and independents grew in popularity, and now retail sales account for 80-90% of Ispíní’s business – including around 20% of that total ¬in the Ispíní shop – a model that Cuddy prefers. Because charcuterie is such a slow product, planning for retail is relatively simple. “It makes the logistics of producing such a slow artisan product easier. If you run out of Chorizo for a couple of weeks it’s less of a problem, but it’s a huge issue for a chef.” Opening the outlet in a small independent courtyard in Moira, shared with fellow Golden Fork-winner Hannan Meats, has helped reduce the monotony of producing the same few products every week, and introduce a new layer to his NPD. Having his customers come directly to his bricks-and-mortar store allows Cuddy to do some in-person taste testing. “What I love most about the shop is getting to experiment again. Getting to give the customer a wee slice and seeing their reaction – it’s great,” he says. “Getting the satisfaction of a job well done, seeing someone enjoying what you’ve spent months and months creating.” And it is this experimentation that has taken Cuddy back hundreds of years to uncover some long-lost Ulster charcuterie. Since Ispíní’s inception, he had used the internet to uncover different recipes, tweaking them and putting his own mark on classics, and it was this that led him to trawl through old newspapers for mentions and recipes of cured meats from the past. “I think there’s a misconception about the olden days,” he says. “People think everyone was

April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

just eating salty bacon and potatoes, but when you delve into it we had some really nice cures.” Ispíní’s Black Strap Mollases Lomo was one such cure. Based on a recipe from a 1783 Belfast News Letter for Belfast bacon, Cuddy thought that the same cure could, with some adaptation, apply to a lomo, and the product was born. He has since uncovered a number of foods lost to history such as the Ulster roll – a pancettastyle rolled, air-dried and smoked ham, and the 150-year-old recipe for Belfast jerked beef which, says Cuddy, is almost identical to biltong – Cuddy has christened his product Beltong. These products were enormously popular across the globe and the Ulster roll was one of the region’s major exports. Now, the charcutier has modernised the recipes and will be bringing the historic cures out as specials in the coming year. “It’s a slow process, but I’ve learned a lot about Northern Irish food history,” says Cuddy. “It’s quite nice bringing back a bit of nostalgia for what was done here years ago while trying to mix it up with what the Continent does best.” And the nostalgic influence on his operation doesn’t end there. A running theme when FFD speaks with Cuddy is his dismay at the ways in which agriculture has changed since he was a youngster. He laments the intensification of farming practices, and the focus on yield, not flavour. “When I was a young cub, the animals had the run of the farm,” he says. “And I have this kind of nostalgic notion that by doing charcuterie, we can take things back to how they were. We’re farming for taste again.” Cuddy sources his meat from a range of local smallholders who are rearing rare breeds as well as from the family farm. Having connections with other local farmers and the ability to control

It’s quite nice bringing back a bit of nostalgia for what was done here years ago while trying to mix it up with what the Continent does best the pig-production process is allowing Cuddy to experiment with how different feeds and conditions can affect the flavour of the meat. The pigs were previously fed a grain-based diet, but now there is some experimentation going on. One local smallholder has been feeding his pigs the waste whey from the production of Young Buck, made by Newtownards-based Mike’s Fancy Cheese. The meat from this has now gone into making a new salami, previously trialled as a beer stick, containing the Northern Irish blue – as well as Buckfast Tonic Wine – prosaically named Bucky Salami. This circularity, says Cuddy, is a good story to tell his customers, but also a great way to use waste and create a better product. While scouring the internet for historical cures, Cuddy came across a survey of Ireland, commissioned in 1820 by the Royal Dublin Society, which stated that the way to farm pigs was to pasture them for the summer and bring them in for winter, and that method produces the best hams and bacon. “Those two sentences just summarise exactly what I want to do,” says Cuddy. On the family farm, along with his brother who runs the operation, Cuddy is beginning to experiment with pasture-feeding the pigs. “It’s a hell of a lot of learning, though,” he says. Where the fields were previously monocropped with perennial ryegrass, a more biodiverse mix with varying root depths is needed to prevent the pigs from destroying the pasture. “That’s the long-term plan. We’re totally rethinking how we do agriculture.” For Cuddy, this process is about reconnecting with the land, something which he believes is equally important to consumers, “I can see that. You can tell the customers the whole story behind that piece of meat.” “Somewhere in the last generation we lost that connection, but we’re getting reconnected. “I find it fascinating, but it’s a slow process.” Ispíní is in a unique position, being able to control the entire process from the rearing of the pigs to turning it into charcuterie, but that isn’t without its logistical challenges. “You’re looking at two-and-a-half years from when the pig is born to the finished product, so that’s how far you need to be ahead of yourself,” says Cuddy. “That’s one thing about charcuterie – you learn patience. There’s no other option, you have to wait.” ispinicharcuterie.com

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April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Castile and León

Roll out the barrel

There’s more to Spanish beer than mass-produced lager and a new breed of independent craft breweries in Castile and León is creating cutting-edge brews with global appeal A COLD BEER in the sun is part of the Spanish way of life and big brand lager has long been the liquid refreshment of choice. But a new wave of craft breweries is now pushing the boundaries of cerveza in exciting new directions. Castile and León in northwestern Spain is at the vanguard of this craft beer movement, producing drinks that are shaking up the domestic bar scene and gaining fans overseas. “It is a booming market,” says Juan José

April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

Villanueva, owner of Doce Setenta brewery in Villablino. “León is the largest producer of hops in Spain, which allows us to have the best and freshest hops. Despite the pandemic, craft beer is establishing itself strongly throughout our territory and we are proud of it. Five years ago, we could say that the craft market in Castile and León represented only 0.2% of the total. Now it has reached 2%. A low figure, but much higher than expected.” Doce Setenta is a good example of the innovative, entrepreneurial craft breweries popping up in Castile and León. Set up in 2018 as a social project, the brewery is located in an old coal mine in the mountains, where Villanueva’s father and grandfather used to work. The site is used for production but also for tours and tastings, with more than 9,000 visitors having tasted beers such as Tostada Doppelbock - a strong German-style beer – and an imperial chocolate stout

made in collaboration with a local chocolatier. Cerveza Mica in Burgos is also rooted in its local area. Set up by Juan Cereijo in Aranda de Duero in the Ribera del Duero region, which is best known for wine, the company makes beers with barley grown on Cereijo’s grandparents’ mountain farm. It also draws on the region’s wine traditions by using wine yeasts and maturing beer in wine barrels. Mica Imperial Stout is macerated in Ribera del Duero barrels and is blended with a 48-month reserva wine, while Cereijo also teamed up with the Osborne sherry house to create Toro amber ale. This spends time in centuries old Oloroso barrels giving the beer toasted and caramel notes. “The quality of beer in Castile and León has grown

tremendously and it will surely become a benchmark area,” says Cereijo. “The market is being promoted by small breweries like us that do things differently. We are building a beer culture through tastings, visits and articles.” Bread is the secret ingredient at Raíz Cuadrada in El Barraco in Ávila. Owners and brothers Israel and Héctor García Sánchez come from a long line of bakers so when they decided to go into brewing it was only natural to combine the two. “In our bakeries there has always been a surplus of bread,” says Israel García. “Usually it is left to harden and sold as breadcrumbs or for animal feed, or just thrown away. We have decided to give it a second life. The bread still has sugars that have not been fermented, so we chop it up and add it to the mash to extract them. It also helps with foam retention and silkiness in the mouth.” Previously engineers by trade, the García brothers started their beer journey in 2008 as home brewers, before setting up their own premises in 2019. The company’s core range includes a blonde and British strong ale, plus a session IPA, all made with bread, but it also brews limited edition beers under the Alquimia Series, such as a strong bitter with honey and oatmeal milk stout with brioche. “We want people to try different styles to create a beer culture,” he says. “There are more than 100 beer styles in the world and we want people to know and enjoy them.”

Raíz Cuadrada is not the only brewery with a home brewing history. The Coolumbus Beer Company in Salamanca originally started as a hobby, before it quickly took on a life of its own. “We started at home and became the ‘official suppliers’ of beer at family gatherings and dinners with friends,” says commercial manager Arantxa

Nuin, who runs the business with brewer Raúl Martín. “After many litres of beer brewed and many messages of encouragement for us to dare, we lost ourselves in taking the next step and embarking on making craft beer as a business project.” The business, which launched in 2013 and joined forces with hotel and restaurant group Arco in 2018, specialises in unfiltered, unpasteurised beers under the Coolumbus and Bizarra brands. “Castile and León is a very large region, and very traditional. Industrial beer has been the beer of choice for a long time,” she says. “But through hard work, craft beers have managed to conquer the market.” The company’s beers, which include black IPAs, brown ale and pale ales, have been recognised with awards at Great Taste and the European Beer Challenge. Cerveza Milana in Montemayor de Pililla, Valladolid, has also been recognised at the European Beer Challenge, picking up a silver for

WHERE TO BUY

its Milana Yirga coffee stout and bronze for an amber lager called uk.area-gourmet.com Milana Zorrilla. mundovinum.co.uk The company, which viandas.shop/gb was set up by brothers spainiberico.eu Ismael and Marcos Gómez de Pablo in 2011 with backing from friends and family has a core range of three beers, but also makes bespoke products for hotels and restaurants. Creating a culture of good beer in their home town and working with like-minded creative souls is a big part of the brothers’ approach. The brewery acquires a painting by a local artist each year and uses it to launch a line of T-shirts and backs the local hockey team and film festival. It has also opened two Beer House bars in Montemayor de Pililla and Valladolid, and runs the hugely popular El Milanito craft beer festival each year with live music and family activities. “We welcomed more than 15,000 people over the weekend at the last one,” says Ismael “It’s gotten out of hand!” For more information, contact: promocion.ice@jcyl.es docesetenta.com cervezamica.es cervezaraizcuadrada.com cervezabizarra.com cervezamilana.com

FIVE AWARD-WINNING BEERS FROM CASTILE AND LEÓN BIZARRA TOSTADA A strong (6.2% ABV) brown ale with a coppery colour and toffee and caramelised biscuit notes. Coolumbus Beer Company won a star at the Great Taste Awards for the beer in 2019.

MICA SIN This non-alcoholic lager from Cerveza Mica was named best in the world in its class at the World Beer Awards in 2017. There’s a touch of sweetness from the locally harvested barley, plus a delicate hoppy bitterness.

12.70 DOPPELBOCK A 6.8% ABV dark lager made by Doce Setenta in Villablino that won bronze at the International Beer Challenge in 2021. It’s rich in body and malty with aromas of smoked oak and nuts.

BRITISH STRONG ALE WITH BREAD A lightly carbonated homage to British beer made by Raíz Cuadrada, this 6.7% ABV ale is made with East Kent Golding hops and leftover bread from the family bakery. Roasted caramel and dark chocolate notes abound. Gold at Spain’s prestigious Campeonato Nacional de Cervezas.

MILANA YIRGA This imperial coffee stout from Cerveza Milana is made with Ethiopian Yirgacheffe coffee and took silver at the Cathay Pacific Hong Kong International Wine and Spirits Competition in 2021. It’s smooth, citrussy and aromatic, which belies its strength (8.8% ABV).

Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

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April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

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OUTDOOR DINING It will soon be that time of year again when your customers will want to be eating in the sunshine – whether it’s on your premises or at home. Over the next 10 pages, FFD covers NPD from some of the key categories for the season: oils & vinegars (page 33), sauces & dressings (35), ice cream (39), beers, wines & spirits (43) and mixers & mocktails (48) There are also some handy guides on picnic merchandising, plant-based barbecues, cocktail making and how to range your chilli sauces. Compiled by Lynda Searby

Time to get outside 32

April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

oils & vinegars

>> Yorkshire’s Wharfe Valley Farms is bringing Mediterranean sunshine to the British rapeseed oil space this summer with two new infused oil flavours. The new Orange and Lime flavoured oils have been packaged together with the brand’s popular Sicilian Lemon in a new spring gift pack. The Citrus Collection has an RRP of £10 for 3 x 100ml. Trade price £6. wharfevalley.co.uk

Aspall Vinegar has relaunched its Raw Apple Cyder Vinegar with Honey with a new recipe at a more competitive price point. The Suffolk vinegar-maker says it has created a recipe that offers better value for consumers without any compromise on quality or taste. Unfiltered and unpasteurised, Aspall’s raw cider vinegars retain the ‘mother’. RRP £3.99 for 500ml. aspall.co.uk

The current generation of the Cristiano family has rebranded Oro Don Vincenzo EVOO as Tenute Cristiano and redesigned the bottle. The new design is a reinterpretation of the ceramics of Magna Graecia (400BC) that were found close to the Calabrian estate where the family has been producing olive oil since 1919. Tenute Cristiano uses only estate-grown olives from centenary trees. The olives are handpicked at an early stage of ripening and the oil is cold extracted. In the UK Tenute Cristiano is distributed by Just Gourmet Foods. All oils come in 500ml bottles with the following RRPs: BIO Organic £23.03; Grand Cru £22.11; Bio £15.92; Carolea £13.85. tenutecristiano.com

ageing in steel maintains its colour The Slow Vinegar Company’s fruit vinegars are now available in a 100ml bottle as well as its standard 200ml size. The range takes in 12 seasonally aligned varieties which are handcrafted via a double fermentation process and matured over twelve months. They are distributed via The Fine Cheese Company, and have an RRP of £12 for 200ml; £7 for 100ml. theslowvinegarcompany. co.uk

For years, Golden Raspberry & Apache Chilli Vinegar has been Womersley’s “flag bearer” but, following worldwide fruit shortages last year, the Oxfordshire producer was unable to source any golden raspberries to continue making this three-star Great Taste Award-winner. This resulted in the development of a new Raspberry & Apache Chilli Vinegar with more readily available red raspberries. RRP £5.69 for 100ml; wholesale price £22.20 for a case of 6. womersleyfoods.faire.com

Pitched as a finishing oil for fish dishes, Ross & Ross Gifts’ new Lemon & Dill Oil can be bought individually or as part of the Cotswolds producer’s salmon Homemade Curing Kits. Coldpressed Cotswold rapeseed oil is infused with lemon and dill. RRP £3.75 for 100ml. rossandrossgifts.co.uk

Retail outlets looking to sell olive oil on tap should check out Aeithalis, which claims to be the first closed loop olive oil maker in Europe. A partnership between William Uden and Greek olive farmer Ilias Panagiotakopoulos, Aeithalis supplies outlets with PDO certified Greek EVOO in 20l tubs ready to dispense with the tap provided. Trade price £137 for 20l; RRP £1.40 for 100ml. aeithalis.co.uk

The Wasabi Company’s Sanbaizu Pure Rice Vinegar is fermented and aged in 100-year-old cedar wood casks, resulting in a quintessentially Japanese umami-rich flavour. This vinegar is said to be ideal for marinating vegetables and adding to dressings and sauces. RRP £9 for 300ml, trade £6.60. thewasabicompany.co.uk

London importer The Oil Merchant has added a new vinegar from Italian label La Vecchia Dispensa to its portfolio. Rose Balsamic Condimento is obtained from red grape must, combined with red wine vinegar from Modena Grasparossa grapes. To maintain its colour, the condimento is aged in steel rather than wood, which would lead to oxidation. RRP is £10.50. oilmerchant.co.uk

The newest addition to the Kentish Oils range is coldpressed rapeseed oil blended with black truffle. It can be used as a finishing oil for pizza, pasta or risotto, drizzled over scrambled eggs or stirred through mac & cheese. RRP £9.50 for 250ml; trade price £6.65 from Curd & Cure. kentishcondiments.com Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

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Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

oils & vinegars Yorkshire Rapeseed Oil has added Rosemary & Sea Salt to its flavoured oil collection and relaunched its Chilli & Spice oil with a new recipe. Both products are made on the Palmer family farm at Breckenholme from coldpressed rapeseed and are designed for roasting and drizzling. They come in a new smaller size (250ml) and have an RRP of £4; wholesale price £2.50. yorkshirerapeseedoil. co.uk

sauces & dressings Stefania Calugi has launched two condiments in a 100ml spray format, allowing truffle lovers to enhance meat, fish and salads with a spritz of flavour. Gocce el Tartufo (olive oil with white truffle) has an RRP of £10.52, and Condimento a base di Aceto Balsamico di Modena IGP (Truffle flavoured dressing with Balsamic vinegar) has an RRP of £7.57. tartufi.it

Three siblings - Chan, Ezda and Dashal Beevers - have put their heads together to create a new vegan mayonnaise brand. BeSaucy’s recipe uses aquafaba, otherwise destined for waste, along with organic soya milk and Cotswold Gold rapeseed oil. There are three varieties – Garlic, Basil and Black Truffle – now listed in around 60 independents across the UK. RRP £3.95 for 180g (trade £2.53). besaucy.co.uk

>> The Welsh Saucery has added Pineapple Habanero to its table sauce line-up, which already includes Tomato Ketchup, Brown Sauce, BBQ Sauce and Sweet Chilli & Garlic Sauce. Pineapple Habanero begins very sweet and mild, with a delayed heat onset that tricks the taste buds. The producer recommends it as a dipping sauce for chicken, pork and prawns. RRP £5; trade price £3.76. thewelshsaucery.co.uk

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Oils and vinegars are a key category for Golden Virgin, a new Londonbased business that has set out its stall to become ‘the UK’s number one Greek organic food brand’. Its portfolio includes Organic EVOO in 500ml and 1l bottles, Organic Balsamic Vinegar with no added sugar, and no added sugar Organic Balsamic Glazes flavoured with pomegranate, fig and chilli. goldenvirginfoods.com

Zeet has taken organic EVOO from picual olives and combined it with sugar and xanthan gum to create a marmalade. Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil Marmalade can be spread on toast or crackers or eaten with cheese, yogurt or fruit. RRP £5.20 per 100g jar. evoozeet.com

Portuguese label Chilli Boy has created its new Piri Piri Salad Oil as a milder alternative to its stronger, more intense Piri Piri oils. Fresh chillies steeped in garlic, ginger and pepper result in an oil with a warm fruity flavour that can be used in salad dressings or as a stand-alone dipping oil for bread. RRP is €5.95; trade price €3. chilliboy.com

Cretan Liquid Gold Organic, an EVOO obtained from organic koroneiki olive trees, is one of the star products at Richmondbased Greek food importer Liquid Gold Products. The oil is produced from the latest harvest, with very low-acidity fruit that are rich in polyphenols. liquidgoldproducts.co.uk

Responding to consumer demand for plant-based alternatives to soya, fish and oyster sauces is Sozyë, with its Nish, Noya and Noyster sauces. Sozyë uses organic-certified seaweed from the remote shores of Wick in Scotland to brew its sauces. Only the tops of the leaves are harvested so they regrow within weeks, making this a more sustainable base material than soya. RRPs £2.99-£4.99 for 250ml. sozye.com

Confident there is room in its range for two BBQ sauces, Sauce Shop has launched Honey Chipotle BBQ Sauce. This new addition is sweet and smoky with a little heat - in contrast to the producer’s Kansas-city style Original BBQ Sauce. RRP £2.99 for 260g. www.sauceshop.co

Lakes producer The Hawkshead Relish Company has created two new products for adding bold flavour to barbecued meat and fish. Sticky Chilli Marinade imbues fish and white meat with luxurious stickiness, whereas Sriracha Ketchup is a smooth, sweet, hot sauce for dolloping onto burgers. RRP £3.55; trade price: £13.90 for a case of six bottles. hawksheadrelish.com

ChicP, the hummus brand that uses surplus vegetables, has launched its best-selling Beetroot & Horseradish variety in a 300g sharing pot. The producer says the new larger sized pot aligns with the demographic of its customers, who enjoy sharing meals, events and picnics. RRP £4.69. chicp.co.uk

Jalapeño is the star ingredient in the two latest lines from The Foraging Fox. Smoked Jalapeño Mayo (RRP £3.49, 240g) blends smokiness with a subtle chilli kick in a no-sugar, dairy- and gluten-free recipe that is made for tacos and fajitas. Spicy Tomato Ketchup, meanwhile, balances smoky jalapeño with coconut sugar and tomatoes. It is vegan and coeliac friendly, free from artificial sweeteners and lower in sugar and salt than regular brands. RRP £2.99 for 255g. foragingfox.com

The Coconut Kitchen has treated its entire range of Thai-style sauces and marinades to new livery. Miso, Sesame & Yuzu Dressing, Sriracha Hot Chilli Sauce and Honey, Garlic & Pepper Sauce are among the creations in the line-up. RRP £4.35 for a 250ml bottle (trade £3.15). thecoconutkitchen.co.uk Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

sauces & dressings Pip’s Hot Sauce has collaborated with Birmingham’s Home of Metal to develop a sauce that celebrates the city’s heavy metal music culture. The marriage of black garlic, chillies and roasted onions yields a complex, layered flavour and a deep, slow building heat. Black Mass is said to pair well with sauteed sprouts and bacon, cold cuts, sandwiches and cheese. RRP £8. pipshotsauce.co.uk

Wild & Fruitful has introduced a Sauce of the Lakes Collection, celebrating the tastes, history and spirit of the Lake District. Keswick Ketchup is made with local tomatoes and slow roasted garlic; Cumbrian Spice Sauce is a rich brown sauce; and Sharp Edge Hot Chilli Sauce is a hot spicy sweet sauce loaded with chilli, garlic and ginger. RRP £3.99 for a 270g bottle; trade price £2.65. wildandfruitful.co.uk

Detecting a dearth of curry mustards on the UK food scene, Ginger Beard’s Preserves has made its own. Medium heat from the mustard combines with the Bristol producer’s own blend of curry powder to give warming and fragrant flavours. RRP £4.50; wholesale £2.50. gingerbeardspreserves. co.uk 36

April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

>> Labuyo Hot Chilli Sauce is RoniB’s take on the famous Filipino hot pepper sauce, with the addition of mango and pineapple to give a tropical feel to the heat. The Surrey producer says it wants to celebrate the chilli varieties that are predominant in the Philippines. The sauce launched in February with an RRP of £4.95; trade price £2.90. ronibkitchen.co.uk

The Smokey Carter says its latest creation taps into a trend for Koreanstyle barbecue products. Released last month, Korean BBQ Sauce packs in umami notes via classic ingredients, such as gochujang (fermented soyabean hot red pepper paste), sesame oil and low sodium soy sauce, with the addition of white miso, roasted garlic and spices. RRP £3.95 for 200g jars. thesmokeycarter.com

Made in small batches in Ajar Of’s Dorset kitchen using local and UK-grown black garlic, this versatile condiment balances umami and earthy notes with a hint of sweetness. It doubles up as a ketchup for chips, steak, burgers and halloumi and a secret ingredient for risottos and casseroles. RRP £5.25; wholesale price £18.90 for a case of six. ajar-of.co.uk

Yoyo, which claims to be the only UK producer making Laos style sauces, has added an Asian hot green chilli sauce known as Lan Xang (‘one million elephants’) to its line-up. The Southeast Asian style sauce is made by hand in Yoyo’s kitchen in Halifax, West Yorkshire, from fresh ingredients including carrot, garlic and chilli. RRP £8; trade price £5.50 for 250ml. yoyolaossauce.co.uk

Mr Organic has redeveloped its vegan mayo to deliver a richer, creamier texture and improved taste profile, with a new jar design to boot. Available via Cotswold Fayre, Holleys Fine Foods, Springvale Foods, Suma and Cress Co, Mr Organic Egg Free Organic Mayo has an RRP of £2.79. mr-organic.com

The name Mama Nati, which translates to ‘Mother Nature’ in Creole, is well known on the London farmers’ market circuit for its Caribbean hot sauces (RRP £5.99). Paprika & Orange Chilli Jam blends several different peppers and works well with halloumi and avocado. mamanatiltd.com

Turn up the heat Learn your Scotch Bonnet from your sriracha, with Jay Webley of the Clifton Chilli Club Once upon a time, consumers had little choice regarding availability, but the UK hot sauce scene continues to grow rapidly. In general, most supermarkets stocked Tabasco or Encona sauces, but little else, and while these products still have their place in today’s market, the average hot sauce consumer is now better informed, aware of the options and, most importantly, they know their chillies. Stocking the right products can be baffling due to the number of sauces on the market, so here are some pointers to help you get the best on your shelves. Consumers have become knowledgeable about the flavour profiles of chillies. We see less people asking about heat levels and more asking whether products have a specific pepper in them. Popular chillies include Habanero, Scotch Bonnet, Naga Jolokia (aka Ghost Pepper), Jalapeño, Scorpion and Carolina Reaper. Stocking products that clearly state the pepper on the front label can be help your customers. There are so many sauce styles and they are ever evolving, and moving with trends. Here are five styles that are ‘hot’ right now: • Sriracha – Traditionally made with red jalapeño, lots of garlic and sugar. • Wing sauce – Aged chillies, vinegar, butter/oil and salt. • Fermented – Often a non-cook sauce where some or all ingredients are fermented together over time and then blended. • South East Asian-style – Look out for aromatics such as lemongrass, ginger and garlic. • Bajun/Caribbean – Mustard and scotch bonnet chillies are the most common ingredients in this style. Well spiced with a hint of acidity. Hot chilli products are judged separately at the Great Taste awards. Judges are given training on sauce styles, chilli flavours and heat profiles. Stocking Great Taste award-winning products is a great way of finding wellmade items that have been assessed by people with strong industry knowledge and experience. Clean, simple and clear labelling is making a comeback. There was a point when hot sauces were receiving comical names, often related to hell or the devil due to the fiery heat. But we seem to have curbed our desire to invoke the fiery pits, and now prefer good descriptors such as ‘Jalapeno & Lime sauce’. Please do utilise the free service of Clifton Chilli Club. We have tried thousands of chilli products over the past 15 years and have extensive knowledge of chilli products. If you have questions, get in touch: cliftonchilli@yahoo.co.uk

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sauces & dressings

ice cream Salcombe Dairy’s retail range now includes three vegan flavours that are said to taste as decadent as its Devonshire cream flavours. The three dairy-free varieties – Rainforest Nectar (mango, passionfruit, coconut & lime); Cloudforest Cacao (bean-to-bar chocolate) and Madagascan Vanilla – are available in 500ml tubs, priced at £3.25 for the trade; RRP £5.50. salcombedairy.co.uk

>> Simply Ice Cream cites customer demand for dairy-free alternatives and its mission as a brand to operate more sustainably as the drivers behind its new vegan offer. The Kent producer has opted for a coconut base for its Strawberry, Dreamy Vanilla and Mango nondairy flavours. RRP £5.99 for a 500ml tub, with 120ml mini pots, and 2 and 4.75 litre scooping tubs also available. simplyicecream.co.uk

Hunter & Gather has extended its ‘clean condiments’ line-up to take in 100% Olive Oil Mayonnaise. Free from seed oils, sugar, grains and milk, the mayo is made in the UK from a blend of olive oil, free-range egg yolk, apple cider vinegar and pink Himalayan salt. It is available in Classic, Olive and Lemon & Horseradish varieties, with an RRP of £4.49 for 240g. Also new from the brand is a duo of olive oil dressings with no added sugar, sweeteners, grains or gluten. 100% Olive Oil Greek Dressing and 100% Olive Oil Ranch Dressing are made from olive oil, lemon juice, herbs and vinegar. RRP £4.49 for 250ml. hunterandgatherfoods.com

The flavours of an Indian summer Following a change of ownership in 2020, Just Rachel has been rebranded as Berry’s Luxury Ice Cream. The Herefordshire producer makes dairy ice cream from cream, sugar and fresh ingredients (RRP £6.50-7.50 for 500ml), as well as offering three coconut-cream based vegan flavours (passionfruit, chocolate and lime & coconut liqueur). It also produces sorbets, with Pear & Earl Grey Tea the latest flavour. berrysicecream.co.uk

Med Cuisine has brought some much-needed innovation to tahini, breaking out of the conventional jar format and creating three products that make it easier for home cooks to work with this versatile sesame paste. The range comprises three SKUs in squeezy bottles: Organic Tahini Sauce is a roasted sesame spread made from 100% Humera sesame seeds (RRP £4.25; wholesale £2.55); Black Tahini is a smooth paste made from 100% black sesame seeds (RRP £4.99; wholesale £2.99) and Sweet Sesame Butter Tahini is a creamy Humera sesame sauce with vanilla accents (RRP £4.99; wholesale £2.99). medcuisine.co.uk

Little Moons has added Chocolate Hazelnut to its mochi line-up. The vegan-friendly bites encase chocolate and hazelnut flavoured ice cream in mochi dough, finished with a dusting of cocoa. RRP is £4.50 for a pack of 6 x 32 mochi. littlemoons.com

Purbeck Ice Cream has taken inspiration from the Harry Nilsson song to create Lime & Coconut Ice Cream, available as a limited-edition flavour in 500ml retail tubs (RRP £6.35) as well as 2l and 4l catering tubs. The Dorset producer will also launch its Vegan Chocolate & Raspberry Ice Cream in 125ml single serve pots (RRP £2.50) this summer. purbeckicecream.co.uk

Organic ice cream and sorbet brand Luscious has partnered with Terra Organica Prosecco to launch Luscious Prosecco & Strawberry Sorbet in celebration of the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee. The limited-edition flavour is available in 500ml, 120ml and foodservice sizes. RRP £6.99 for 500ml. lusciousorganics.co.uk

Now Indian food lovers can buy dinner and dessert from Surreybased Mandira’s Kitchen following the launch of its ice cream and sorbet range. Made exclusively for the brand by Gray’s Gelato, the collection features traditional Indian flavour combinations: Fig & Almond Gelato, Lychee Martini Sorbet and Mango & Cardamom Gelato in 500g tubs. mandiraskitchen.com

Lakes Ice Cream has signed a five-year deal with fellow Cumbrian producer, the Cartmel Sticky Toffee Pudding Company, giving it exclusive rights to make Cartmel Sticky Toffee Pudding ice cream. This flavour blends ice cream from Lakes with Cartmel’s toffee sauce and pudding crumb. lakesicecream.com Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

plant-based barbecue

Seeking new grills? With the warmer months approaching, FFD uncovers ways to offer plant-based options for al fresco diners, who are cutting back on meat. By Nick Baines

CORN RIBS AND ELOTE Corn on the cob is set for an upgrade this year. Whether as a meat alternative or a side dish, it’s a cheap and efficient way of increasing the offering. A lot of new influences are coming from Mexico where elote is a popular street food dish. Corn is grilled over coals before being slathered with mayonnaise and dusted with chilli powder, salt, lime juice and fresh coriander. However, some meat-dodging chefs have begun cutting “ribs” from corn – slicing long sections part way into the core – and grilling on the barbecue, before smothering in sauce like you would with sweet pork ribs, or sharp, spicy Buffalo wings. MUSHROOM SHAWARMA This is an easy way to turn those tired old veg kebabs up to eleven. Hefty Portobello mushrooms are stacked and pressed down on a metal skewer before being rubbed and marinaded in freshly grated garlic, smoked paprika, cumin, turmeric, cinnamon and chilli flakes. After being slowly cooked on the grill, the shawarma stack can be carved, delivering thin slivers of spicy mushroom that can be stuffed in a pitta, or plated with salad. Amsterdam eatery Bardak serves its own take with creme fraiche, sumac onions and a chilli-garlic sauce.

PULLED JACKFRUIT With potential to sway even the most carnivorous of barbecue snobs, pulled jackfruit is proving a force to be reckoned with. When cooked, the jackfruit has an uncanny resemblance to the texture of its pork-based counterpart, falling into shredded heaps with a little help from a fork. After being anointed with sweet, smokey barbecue sauce, it’s ready to be loaded into fluffy white buns with a rough-cut slaw. Alternatively, deploy the shredded jackfruit to tortillas for veggie burritos and tacos.

SEITAN ‘CHICKEN’ Long relegated to the dusty shelves of health food shops, seitan now has a rightful place in the plant-based arsenal. Right now it is being used to great effect as a chicken substitute, everywhere from popular vegan fast food outlets like Temple of Seitan to food bloggers like romylondonuk.com, who shares a barrage of plant-based alternatives, including the pictured BBQ grilled seitan. Offering the same versatility as chicken, this can be marinaded and grilled. Stick it on a skewer as a satay alternative, create-Thai inspired patties, or sear and toss through a salad.

PLANT-BASED BURGERS & BANGERS There’s now no shortage of impressive looking meat substitutes, from Vivera to Beyond Meat. These protein-dense patties have been a game changer in recent years, bringing both depth of flavour and texture to the table. However, there’s also a cry for more traditional veggie burgers, those made from chickpeas, pulses and minced vegetables. Use this as an opportunity to bring in more complex flavours, use leftfield ingredients, and explore regional spice blends.

April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

CAULIFLOWER STEAKS There are few things more satisfying than cooking steak over coals. But that primal ritual is being replicated, to a degree, with the humble cauliflower. Yes, you read that right. Chefs have been cutting large inch-thick sections through the brassica and giving it the same tender treatment. The cauliflower retains a bit of bite in the centre, charred on its exterior, and delivers hungry diners something they can sink their teeth into. All sorts of rubs and marinades will work but, when the vegetable has smoky charred notes to it from slow-cooking on the grill, sauces like chimichurri really come into their own.

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beers, wines & spirits

>> Gin Bothy’s new Smoked Gin is an expression that reconnects with North East Scotland’s historic bothy smokehouse culture. Rich in flavour and full in strength, the gin is pitched as the perfect companion to Scottish smoked salmon and Highland game. It is hand-bottled, handbatched and hand-labelled at the producer’s bothy in the Angus Glens. RRP £38; trade price £24.99. ginbothy.co.uk

Roses from the Chatsworth Garden impart a sweet subtle flavour to Peak Artisan Drinks’ new Chatsworth Rose Pink Gin, the second gin expression to come out of the Derbyshire distillery. The distillery, which sits in the foothills of the Chatsworth Estate, already has an established following for its smallbatch Chatsworth gin. Both are available in 50ml and 700ml bottles. chatsworthgins.com

Silent Pool Distillers claims to have brought to market the world’s first spirit packaged in a 100% recyclable cardboard bottle with the launch of Green Man Wildwood Gin. Made from 94% recycled paperboard by a company called FrugalPac, the Frugal Bottle is said to be 80% lighter than a glass bottle, resulting in a carbon footprint that is six times lower. The Surrey distillery has also partnered with Tree Nation to plant a tree for every bottle sold. The gin itself is characterised by top notes of pine, fir and birch leaf, which give way to a more herbal midpalate, including Macedonian juniper, rosehip, and apple. It has a long finish with woody, rooty notes coming from Bosnian juniper, fennel seeds, dandelion and burdock. silentpooldistillers.com

Enjoy neat or in cocktails

Last month, Withers Gin launched G Force, a London dry gin in memory of founder Sarah Withers’ father, a decorated fighter pilot. G Force has the same botanical line-up as the East Midlands producer’s original G1 gin, but an export strength ABV of 47%. Both expressions utilise heartsease, a flower of remembrance, as the lead botanical. RRP £41.95 for 70cl. withersgin.co.uk

According to husband-and-wife duo Andy and Zoe Arnold-Bennet, who co-founded Shed 1 Distillery in 2016, once they discovered chuckleberries it became their mission to use them in gin. “We knew we had to make a bathtub gin so as not to lose the beautiful colour,” says Zoe. The chuckleberry is a cross between a gooseberry, redcurrant and jostaberry. It has a unique tart sweetness, which the Ulverston distillery complemented with the herby notes of meadowsweet and hyssop. Shed 1 Distillery created Chuckleberry Gin with tonic in mind and recommends serving one part gin, to three parts tonic. The gin is already on sale in Booths. RRP is £29.95 for 70cl; trade price £17.50. shed1distillery.com

British Polo Gin, the brand created by former professional polo player Rich Hine, has launched a gift set containing its core range of ‘proudly British’ organic gins. The pack is soft touch matt laminated with silver foil, delivering both shelf appeal and weight in hand. RRP £26; trade price £15. britishpologin.co.uk

Jiddler’s Tipple has dressed up its session strength craft beers in vintage shirt patterns to make them as easy on the eye as they are on the palate. The London start-up, which launched in 2019, now has a three 3.8% ABV beers in its core range: Everyday Pale Ale, Bog Standard Lager and Another IPA. RRP £2.693.30. jiddlerstipple.com

Apple Black is Honey’s take on a ‘cider & black’, blending real Somerset cider with blackcurrant in a fruity 4% ABV drink. The Honeys make their own cider on their farm in Midford, near Bath, where they have revived the grazed orchard tradition. honeyscider.co.uk

Crab apples can be wincingly sour, but Ballyvolane House Spirits Company has found a way of transforming them into a smooth spirit that can be enjoyed neat or in cocktails. The Co Cork distiller ages the fruit with Irish milk gin for several months and then filters it before adding local honey, jaggery cane sugar syrup and cloves to create a 31% ABV crab apple gin that immortalises Bertha – a legendary Irish cow that lived to the age of 48. RRP €35.00 RRP for 50cl. ballyvolanespirits.ie

Staffordshire fruit wine maker Clive’s has created a new gift box. The presentation pack accommodates three 187ml bottles, with eight varieties to choose from: Cherry, Damson, Elderflower, Gooseberry, Plum, Raspberry, Rhubarb and Strawberry & Elderflower. RRP £11.99; trade price £6.25. cliveswines.co.uk Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

beers, wines & spirits

In the Welsh Wind Distillery’s Signature Style dry gin is a smooth, oil-rich gin whose botanical profile is inspired by cargoes imported into the Welsh port of New Quay a few miles north of the distillery: oranges, baking spices and tea-soaked currants. RRP £42 for 70cl. inthewelshwind.co.uk

Rhubarb Cream Tea Gin is the upshot of Fox Gins’ desire to create a Yorkshire-inspired expression. Using fresh rhubarb and a tea blend from the Metropolitan Tea Company, the distillery has crafted a gin that balances the tartness of rhubarb with the sweet taste of cream. RRP: £34.95 for 50cl, £10 for 10cl. foxgins.co.uk

Making Japanese saké more accessible is Kanpai, with its RTD Yuzu & Cucumber Session Sake (250ml can, trade £2). This lightly sparkling 5.5% ABV beverage is naturally fermented, brewed from rice in London by Kanpai, and infused with Japanese yuzu and British cucumber. kanpai.london

Negroni 58 is Thunderflower Distillery’s take on a classic recipe, blending the Devon distillery’s FireShip 58 gin, with Cocchi Storico Vermouth di Torino, and Amaro Montenegro liqueur. The bitter-sweet 31.5% ABV cocktail comes in 20cl and 70cl bottles, with respective RRPs of £15 and £38. thunderflower.co.uk

Wolftown’s second creation is a London dry, crafted to be reminiscent of holidays in the Med. The Citrus Gin combines lemon and grapefruit with a silky mouthfeel thanks to the use of organic British oats from the producer’s home county of Cumbria. RRP £3639 for 70cl; £9 for 20cl. wolftown.uk

Five steps to picnic success Retail design and merchandising specialist Eve Reid, of Metamorphosis Group, looks at how shopkeepers can maximise their sales as customers look to take their food outdoors – both on and off the premises THE RIGHT FOOD OFFER To start off with, don’t forget your retailing basics. Think about who your customers are and what they will be looking for as the weather improves. There’s no point in stocking up with Champagne and strawberries for picnicking romantic couples when most of your footfall is coming from families seeking out sandwiches and crisps. Try to draw up some customer profiles – almost like imaginary friends. Think about what they want, the time (of day and week) that they want it, and where they’re going to eat it (at home, out and about).

NON-FOOD OPPORTUNITIES Try to work out where your customers are taking the food & drink after they’ve bought it from you. If they are going home to eat in the back garden, then merchandise items like salad bowls, glassware and cutlery. And if they are heading to a picnic spot then try to carry those useful items that are often forgotten: disposable plates, picnic blankets, rubbish sacks, wet wipes. Stock sun cream for the optimists and umbrellas for the pessimists.

Try to work out where your customers are taking the food & drink after they’ve bought it from you. CREATING SOME ‘WOW’ Despite what you might think, anyone can present and package food with a bit of pizazz. Don’t be afraid of using a traditional hamper as a starting point for your displays or as an upsell on the humdrum shopping bag. Or you aim somewhere in between with card lunchboxes or a re-usable hessian bag, which offer practicality

April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

and smart branding opportunities for you. Suppliers like WBC have plenty of options for retailers, such as those pictured. PROMOTING THE OFFER Visual merchandising is a vital part of snaring potential picnickers, so decide on your key promotional locations. Start with outside the shop. If you’re in a high footfall location, entice people in with an eye-catching display and signage that sums up your offer. Indoors, make sure you map out the typical customer’s walk through the shop. Promote items in displays near the entrance and at busy “junctions”, such as toilets and counters (especially for hampers). The till points are also so-called “hot spots” but make sure there are easy-to-grab items, like napkins or crisps. The more effort you put into all of these contact points the more reward you will get in terms of sales. GET THEM TO STAY… AND RETURN You may be lucky enough to be next to a park, or in the middle of an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. If so, you should achieve this one easily, provided you follow the points above and the weather stays good! But, failing that, try to create your own inviting space for customers to eat their purchases on site. Shade, comfortable benches and dog water bowls will encourage repeat visits. metamorphosisgroup.co.uk

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glastry_farm_ice_cream | www.glastryfarm.com Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

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April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

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beers, wines & spirits Something & Nothing has taken the botanicals and natural fruit flavours from its non-alcoholic seltzer range and blended them with French wines from a small estate in the Côtes de Gascogne to create a new kind of spritz. It launches in 330ml cans in two 4% ABV flavours: French Rosé + Hibiscus & Rose and Sauvignon Blanc + Cucumber Seltzer. RRP £3.50. somethingandnothing.co

High Hops and Navigator, the two newest products from Purple Moose Brewery in Porthmadog, are the first beers the Welsh brewery has ever canned. A full-bodied and refreshing hazy, pale, tropical IPA, High Hops was designed to be a modern style summer thirst quencher, whilst Navigator is a red IPA inspired by a US beer style. purplemoose.co.uk

Summer serves Industry veteran and founder of Hello Gubs, a drinks brand strategy consultancy focused on smaller brands, Jonny Shields selects five summer cocktails to tempt your customers. NEGRONI A classic that just hits different in the sunshine. With a bittersweet blend of gin, sweet vermouth & bitter amaro, this drink packs a punch. Being so simple, the Negroni is ripe for some flavourled twists. I love using a bright, citrus-forward Gin in mine, like a blood orange gin, perhaps.

All-natural, pure juice rosé cidre

Since winning a Golden Fork Award in 2019 for its Heather mead, Afon Mêl Meadery has been busy developing a range of session meads. The outcome is a trio of 5% ABV easy-drinking meads: Nectar (pure mead with a light sparkle), Moon Juice (cyser fermented from apples and honey) and Bramble (a cross of blackberries and honey). RRP £4; trade price £24.60 (case of 12). afonmel.com

Paxton & Whitfield has added an English sparkling to its wine portfolio. Described as a “light and effervescent anytime English fizz”, this 2015 vintage is a mix of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes grown in Fox & Fox Mayfield’s East Sussex vineyards. RRP £35; trade price £26. paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk

Lakeland Artisan in Kendal has unveiled its ‘gin in a tin’ proposition: a range of four 6.3% ABV RTD mixes made with 100% natural ingredients and gin from Herdwick Distillery. The 250ml cans come in Yan Gin & Fell Tonic, Berry Yan Gin with Pink Lemonade, Marmalade Yan Gin with Lemonade and Rhubarb & Ginger Yan Gin with Ginger Beer (RRP £3.50; trade price £1.90). lakelandartisan.co.uk

Following the success of its Rostrevor Ruby Irish Gin in the Northern Irish market, Mourne Dew Distillery has introduced the berry flavoured spirit to the trade in Great Britain. This summery gin fuses raspberries, strawberries, mint and rose. RRP £29.99 for 70cl; trade price £18.95. mournedew.com

With the rosé category booming, but all-natural options in short supply, Galipette has raided Brittany’s natural larder to create a 100% pure juice 4.0% ABV rosé cider from local, redfleshed apples. The apples produce an amber-coloured cider with balanced acidity and light bitterness, without adding any sugar, water, sweeteners, colours or additives. Galipette Cidre Rosé launched last month in cases of 24 x 330ml bottles. galipettecidre.com

Vintage Roots, a supplier of organic and biodynamic wines, beers & spirits, has tracked down an organic spritz mixer from Italy. Walcher Veneziano Organic Spritz is distilled from organic fruit and contains no colourants or artificial flavours. RRP £13.95 for 70cl. vintageroots.co.uk

SCOTCH HIGHBALL This one might sound a little dated but, trust me, whisky highballs are back. And for good reason. They’re incredibly refreshing and, with the right balance of ingredients, they’re delicious. Add a large measure of scotch whisky to a highball, fill to the top with cubed ice and top with soda. Finish with a fresh lemon slice for garnish. STRAWBERRY MOJITO Nothing says British summer time quite like a plump, ripe strawberry. Muddle a couple of them in a tall glass with mint, sugar & lime. Add a large measure of white rum and fill the glass with crushed ice. Top with a splash of soda, garnish with a mint sprig and half a strawberry. BITTER SPRITZ There’s more to a spritz than bubbles & bright colours. A good spritz is, of course, effervescent, bright and refreshing, yet should also have a nuanced bitterness and complexity. And when it comes to non-alcoholic drinks, they should feel adult, not dumbed down and overly sweet. Grab a couple measures of a non-alcoholic aperitif – I love Æcorn Bitter, fill a wine glass with ice and top with soda. GINGER SWITCHEL & SODA The summer tipple you didn’t know you needed, this zippy drink is led by the use of fresh ginger. You can make your own Ginger Switchel using fresh ginger, vinegar & honey but why not grab a pre-made bottle for ease of use – I’d go for Mother Root. Then, to lengthen the drink, add soda and plenty of ice. hellogubs.co.uk Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

beers, wines & spirits

mixers & mocktails Amsterdam beverage brand Soof stemmed from the idea of making cordials and sodas from 100% pure fruit, vegetables and herbs – targeting people who are into pure food and mindful ways of living. There are three flavours in the 250ml canned soda range: Rose, Cardamom, Pear, Apple & Water; Blackcurrant, Lavender, Apple & Water; and Lemon, Mint, Apple & Water. soofdrinks.com

Barn Farm Drinks has ventured beyond its core pure fruit juice business to launch a presse range in 250ml glass bottles. The gently sparkling Rhubarb & Apple, Strawberry & Cucumber and Sicilian Lemonade presses can be used as mixers or enjoyed on their own. Much of the fruit used in the drinks is grown on the third generation family farm, situated on the Essex and Suffolk border. barnfarmdrinks.co.uk

Dunnet Bay Distillers, the UK mainland’s most northerly distillery, has mixed its Holy Grass Vodka with apple tonic to produce a 5.5% ABV RTD spirit and soda combo. Holy Grass Vodka is infused with vapour of Highland apple juice to complement the sweetness of the main botanical, Holy Grass, making it a perfect match for apple tonic. Wonders of the Wilderness Holy Grass Scottish Vodka with Apple Tonic comes in a 250ml can that is fully recyclable, including the label, which is made from uncoated wood-free paper and residue from apple production. RRP £2.50. rockrosegin.co.uk

Made from natural soda crystals

The Dorset Ginger Company has added two new flavours to its readyto-drink beverage line-up. Raspberry with a Hint of Ginger is fruity with subtle ginger, while Rhubarb with a Ginger Kick is tart and crisp and packs a more powerful ginger punch. Both flavours are available in 33cl and 75cl bottles, with respective RRPs of £2.50 and £5. dorsetginger.ltd

Orkney Gin Company has taken inspiration from the island’s scenery, history and folklore in the development of Aatta, the distillery’s first London dry gin. The name ‘Aatta’ means ‘eight in Orkney’s historic Norse language. This juniper led gin is distilled eight times with eight whole botanicals including whole oranges and rose hips collected on the island of Burray, Madagascan vanilla and cinnamon. This slow distillation with whole fresh ingredients creates a rich and complex 44% ABV gin. The bottle’s design is a nod to the folklore tales told on the island - a ‘selkie wife’ (mermaid) appears to be moving inside the bottle next to kelp and a shoal of fish. RRP £39.90 for 70cl. orkneygincompany.com 48

April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

This month sees the launch of a Pink Grapefruit Soda from Britvic-owned London Essence Co. Lime leaf distillate contrasts with grapefruit sharp to produce a soda that promises to elevate any tequila, vodka or rum, or allows mixologists to craft Paloma, Vodka Soda or Mojito cocktails. londonessenceco.com

Belvoir Farm has taken a ‘garden to glass’ approach with its latest NPD, crafting a trio of sodas that blend botanical infusions with sparkling water. Providing less than 4.5g of sugar and fewer than 20 calories per 100ml, the sodas offer a healthier alternative to alcoholic and sugary soft drinks. Choose from Floral Fizz, Bitter Orange Spritz and Spicy Ginger Fizz. RRP £2.25 for 500ml. belvoirfarm.co.uk

While mixers often come in 150ml cans, Folkington’s has recognised an opportunity for a larger mixer size. This has prompted the soft drink producer to launch its 100% natural club soda water in 330ml cans, sold in multi-packs of six cans (RRP £6; trade price £3.50). Folkington’s makes its soda using natural soda crystals instead of the industry norm of factory-made soda. folkingtons.com

Kefir water brand Agua de Madre has launched a new 25cl bottle with an easy-to-open ring pull lid, with Selfridges’ London food hall the first outlet to sell the new format. Agua de Madre is a naturally fermented sparkling water drink, said to host a similar amount of live culture as milk kefir. aguademadre.co.uk

Smoothie brand Love Struck has developed a range of frozen mixers for consumers who want cocktails at home without the faff. The sachet contents can be blended with juice and a spirit to produce a “bar quality” Pornstar Martini, Pina Colada, Strawberry Daiquiri or Raspberry Collins. love-struck.com

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Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

FOCUS ON

foodservice

EQUIPMENT

FROM THE DELI KITCHEN SIMPLE RECIPES TO BOOST YOUR MARGINS

HONEY CHICKEN TRAYBAKE With your customers soon keen to eat al fresco, this recipe allows you to produce those sticky and crispy chicken pieces that people love, made a little quicker by adding veg to the tray. Serves: 4 Prep: 20 minutes Cook: 40 minutes

Ingredients: 8 chicken thighs and drumsticks 100g organic honey 75ml soy sauce 4tbsp sriracha sauce (optional) 4tbsp olive oil Plus: A selection of chopped vegetables to fill the roasting tin: red onions, peppers, potatoes, courgettes Method: l Mix the chicken with the honey, soy sauce, sriracha and

wholegrain mustard. Leave to marinate for at least 20 minutes, but ideally overnight. l Preheat the oven to 220°C/200°C Fan/Gas 8. l On a large baking sheet, spread over the vegetables and drizzle with olive oil. Top with the marinated chicken. Place in the oven and cook for 50 minutes to 1 hour, until the chicken is sticky and vegetables are roasted. l

Serve with a big green salad.

Lincat has added a range of upright fridges and freezers, counter fridges and blast chillers to its Blu° refrigeration range. The Blu° upright fridges and freezers come in singleand double-door versions (720mm- and 1440mm-wide, respectively). The counter fridges, which feature an integrated stainless steel worktop, are available as double- and triple-door units (1,310mm and 1,780mm wide). All of the units – including the blast chillers – feature electronic temperature control, with digital controls and fan assisted cabinets. lincat.co.uk Winterhalter’s new PT Utensil passthrough dishwasher combines two applications in one machine – offering the capability to wash both dishes and utensils. Available in sizes L and XL, the units can carry out several washing programmes at differing water pressures depending on the items being cleaned. They also feature the EnergyLight waste water heat recovery system, which uses the energy in the waste water to heat the cold inlet water. winterhalter.com/uk-en

Michael Lane

French kitchenware manufacturer de Buyer has launched a three-layer stainless steel range. The Alchimy lineup includes saucepans, frying pans, woks and sauté pans in a variety of sizes. Thanks to an inner layer of 18/10 stainless steel, aluminium in the centre and external induction stainless steel, the range has been built to offer superior response to temperature changes. debuyer.com/en

Recipe by Jules Mercer for Fine Food Digest Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

MBER

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JOIN US AND PLAY YOUR PART IN THE INDEPENDENT FOOD & DRINK NETWORK Scan the QR code to find out more, or email support@gff.co.uk gff.co.uk/join-the-guild | +44 (0)1747 825200

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April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

SHOW PREVIEW

The trade show circuit is back in full swing and, on 25th-27th April, Farm Shop & Deli Show is set to return to the NEC, Birmingham

Six reasons to visit… … Farm Shop & Deli Show 2022

Four shows in one

Healthy & Natural

Industry discussion

The UK Food & Drink Shows comprise of four events – Farm Shop & Deli Show, National Convenience Show, Food & Drink Expo and The Forecourt Show – giving attendees the chance to discover sector-specific brands and issues, as well as a wider snapshot of the industry’s overarching issues.

Following its success in 2019, Healthy & Natural returns to the show this year as a dedicated section championing free-from, organic, vegan, vegetarian and nutrition brands alongside a complementary platform for nonfood lifestyle products that offer a sustainable and eco-friendly message.

Visitors will benefit from the exclusive insight offered by expert panellists who are set to dissect and discuss the most pressing questions facing the industry across the three-day seminar programme.

Discover something unique

Retailer Hub

Innovation awards

Many brands are exhibiting exclusively at the UK Food & Drink Shows, so visitors will not find them at other trade events.

The Retailer Hub will be the place to find inspiration, bringing together a selection of leading suppliers, retailers and industry experts to share shopper insight and business advice, alongside practical demonstrations.

The relaunch of the show’s Innovation Awards offers visitors an easy way to identify some of the most cutting-edge products coming to market.

Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

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CRANBERRY & ORANGE

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VICTORIA PLUM Plums picked from local orchards around Pershore, add in some home spices, onions and a little jazz creates this wonderful blend that will satisfy any cheese lover!

Croome Cheese in Worcestershire, renowned for their iconic, regional combinations, are pulling out all the stops with their latest, unique creations that takes the cheese and chutney combo to a whole new level! LAUNCHING AT THE FS&D SHOW Exclusive New Range of

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SHELF TALK Brindisa grows gazpacho range and unveils bold new look True Taste of Spain’. Sales and marketing director Cristina Pasantes said: “Our new identity refreshes Brindisa’s traditional look, which had served us well for over 10 years. “We wanted to convey a more joyful brand, that builds on our Spanish heritage specialism, identity, and character and represents our market positioning as the True Taste of Spain.” The new gazpachos are plant-based, and made with sun-ripened fruit, high-quality extra virgin olive oil, and sherry and red wine vinegars. The new adaptations of Spain’s iconic chilled soup are said to reflect the origins of the dish, which historically was not made with tomato. The fruit was actually not introduced to Spain until the 16th Century. “Originally gazpacho was made with olive oil, vinegar, salt and bread. But today’s recipes appeal to our modern tastes for healthy, plant-based and versatile food,” said Brindisa’s founder Monika Linton. The Almond variant contains 8% almonds and is enhanced with garlic while the Beetroot contains 25% beetroot as well as cumin for seasoning and pickled gherkins for balance. Each 1l pack has an RRP of £5.75 (Almond) or £5.55 (Beetroot), and both are sold in cases of 10 for £31.50 and £31 respectively. brindisa.com

By Tom Dale

Brindisa has revealed two new lines for summer and bold new branding as the Spanish food specialist looks to modernise its look, and better represent its Iberian roots. The London-based retailer and supplier has expanded its gazpacho range with the addition of Tomato & Almond and Tomato & Beetroot variants, which join its classic Tomato. The new lines are the first to be packaged in the business’s refreshed branding as the 34-year-old bull is being updated for the third time in its life, with a new look inspired by Spanish modernist artists. The new logo the ‘toro’ surrounded by Spanish landscapes and Brindisa has also altered its strapline, which now reads: ‘The

WHAT’S NEW Cakehead’s new Raspberry Bakewell combines an all-butter almond shortbread base with a layer of raspberry jam and a layer of frangipane, finished with raspberry jam, slivered almonds and toasted almonds. Each tray is pre-portioned into 14 slices (RRP, £3.50/slice), guaranteeing customers receive consistent portions. Each tray costs £17.60 to the trade. cakehead.co.uk Bottled cocktail brand Pimentae has launched its second SKU after the success of its Tommy’s Chilli Margarita last year. The Cucumber & Elderflower Eclipse is a blend of El Tequileno blanco tequila, cucumber, mint, and elderflower, the 15% ABV cocktail comes in a 50cl bottle with an RRP of £29.95. pimentaedrinks.com Stalwart brands Tim’s Dairy and Tiptree have collaborated on a new line to celebrate the Queen’s Jubilee year: Greek Style Strawberry Royale yoghurt. The limited-edition line blends Tim’s bio-live Greek-style yoghurt with Tiptree’s Strawberry with Champagne Conserve. Sold in 450g pots. timsdairy.co.uk

Paley Photography

Counter points Vinegars

80Noir Ultra has launched a pair of premium hot chocolate kits – one designed for the morning as an alternative to coffee, and one for the evening. The kits – named AM and PM – both contain premium dark chocolate (in the form of 20 mini bars in the AM Kit and 300g bag of beads in the PM Kit), a bottle of spice (Aztec spice and Chai spice respectively) and an electric whisk to make the creations. The AM kit has an RRP of £20.50 and the PM, £17.50 80noirultra.com

Food writer and former deli owner Glynn Christian offers up some category-specific conversation starters to sharpen your sales technique.

• The sharpness of vinegar is acetic acid. • Liquids with less than 18% alcohol exposed to air over days will oxidise and form acetic acid. • Modern techniques make vinegars in less than 24 hours. • The Orleans process takes three weeks to make vinegar and then sees it aged in oak casks for months. • Authentic balsamic vinegars are not produced from alcohol but from cooked must. • Only balsamics labelled ‘tradizionale’ are authentic and can come from Modena or Reggio Emilia in Italy.

Only balsamics labelled ‘tradizionale’ are authentic and come from Modena or Reggio Emilia

• Balsamic vinegar is higher in acetic acid than distilled vinegar but balanced by syrupiness. • White balsamic vinegar is a modern creation. • Swedish Attika vinegar is 24% acetic acid.

This is an extract from Glynn Christian’s book Taste! How to Choose the Best Deli Ingredients, published by Grub Street

Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

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April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

SHELF TALK WHAT’S NEW Pale ale and smoked salmon are not often found together, but that hasn’t stopped The Pished Fish from combining the two in its latest line. Pale But Interesting is made by lightly smoking sushigrade Scottish salmon over beech and apple wood, and marinading with pale ale, black pepper and lemon zest. It has an RRP of £7.99/100g. thepishedfish.com The Black Liquorice Company has rebranded and expanded its 120-product range with the addition of Soft Eating Mango and Strawberry Sherbet and Fruity Moresorts. Trade prices start at £1.65 with RRPs at £3.45. blackliquoricecompany.com Bullards Gin is boosting its sustainability credentials by offering refill pouches of its four gins. Customers can put empty used pouches into a post box (no envelope or stamp required), and they will be returned to Bullards for recycling. Refills cost £35. bullardsspirits. co.uk

My magic ingredient Yorkshire Rapeseed Oil – Cold Pressed Extra Virgin CHRIS WILDMAN Owner, Town End Farm Shop Yorkshire Rapeseed Oil is a company that we’ve worked with since before we even had a physical farm shop – from when we were back at farmer’s markets. It’s now used across the business as well as in my home kitchen. It’s such a brilliant, versatile and healthy product, as well as having great green credentials. We offer it as refills for customers and, being from Yorkshire, it has very low food miles. The brand’s Cold Pressed Extra Virgin variety is our favourite. It is very high in Omega-3, -6, and -9 fatty acids, and has a very high smoke point, especially compared to olive oil. It is great for using on salads and making mayonnaise because it lacks the bitter, cabbagey taste that some rapeseed oils have, and because of the high smoke point, it is also great for cooking and even for deep-frying. As a result, it’s used across the farm shop – in our dressings and sauces, and in our fryers.

It’s great for salad dressings as it lacks the bitter, cabbagey taste that some rapeseed oils have

yorkshirerapeseedoil.co.uk

Raising the profile of West African cuisine to help push spice brand A West African seasoning and spice blend producer is looking to expand her direct-to-consumer brand into independent retail. Ndudu by Fafa’s modern styling and content-heavy online brand has seen her business grow, and, the producer believes, it is a perfect fit for fine food retail. Fafa Gilbert – Ndudu by Fafa’s founder – grew up in Ghana and Togo living with a Ghanaian and Lebanese family, and her cooking methods are borrowed from her Ewe heritage and influenced by her marriage to a Brit. “My diverse upbringing is conveyed in each bottle,” said Gilbert. “Each blend represents the knowledge gained from my mum, family recipes, the multi-cultural London food scene and also my husband.” Her range comprises many West African flavours, Middle Eastern-inspired blends, and her recipes incorporate Western trends. While the British public is always on the hunt for new international cuisines and food trends, they may lack the knowledge of how to use new flavours and ingredients. Gilbert has overcome

this hurdle by developing more than 1,000 recipes and cooking techniques which she is showcasing on her social media, and through TV appearances. Now, the founder is seeking retailers to grow her brand. “We are open to collaborating with independent small businesses who share the same ethos,” she said. All Ndudu by Fafa’s blends and sauces are made in the UK in small batches using traditional recipes and techniques, including fermenting, smoking and clay-pot slow cooking, and are focused on balancing the five principal tastes. The Ndudu – an Ewe word meaning food – range includes Ataadi, a selection of slow-cooked chilli sauces incorporating meat and seafood, spice blends including Dzolof (or Jollof), Harissa, Piri Piri, Edzè (akin to za’atar), and Xorla BBQ Rub (Gilbert’s take on the on-trend suya spice), among other sweet and savoury Africa-inspired ingredients. RRPs for the spice blends and sauces sit around £9. Contact the producer for trade prices. buyndudu.com

Dorset-based biscotti producer The Artful Baker has launched a range of six new snacking lines to be distributed by RH Amar. The range comprises three sweet Biscotti Bites – Triple Belgian Chocolate; Sour Cherry & Dark Chocolate and Salted Caramel, Pecan & Roasted Hazelnut – and three savoury Biscotti Nibbles – Fennel, Pink Peppercorn & Sea Salt; Smoked Jalapeno & Lime and Sundried Tomato, Kalamata Olives & Oregano. The Artful Baker joins RH Amar’s growing portfolio of over 50 ambient food brands, which includes Crespo, Del Monte, Kikkoman, and Mutti alongside RH Amarowned brands Cooks&Co, Camp Coffee, Mary Berry’s and The Original Waffle Co. rhamar.com theartfulbaker.co.uk Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

15%

OFF

April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

SHELF TALK MEET THE PRODUCER Sarah Churchill founded THE ARTISAN KITCHEN in 2011 and has spent the following decade picking up an astounding number of Great Taste stars and Golden Forks, among a raft of other awards and accolades. We try to uncover her secrets. What were you doing before you launched The Artisan Kitchen? I have always loved working with food. When I left school, I attended Westminster College in London to become a classically trained chef and honed my craft at some amazing Michelin star restaurants and five-star hotels. In later years, I worked at Daylesford Organic, enjoying a decade there as a chef, production chef and food product developer. It was here I discovered a love of working with the seasons, wonderfully fresh organic food and preserving. Why did you decide to launch the brand? After having my son, I wanted to stay at Daylesford but the desire to spend more time with him was a strong pull. The Artisan Kitchen was doing well locally and had won its first Great Taste award in 2012, I felt confident to take my dream job on full-time. At the time the preserves market was lacking a modern take on fruit jams and marmalades, and I felt with my innovations and high-quality fresh ingredients, I could offer something new and exciting. What is the biggest lesson you have learned? To be confident in your produce and business. I benchmarked my products and received feedback through the Great Taste system. I improved recipes and listened to the judges’ advice, which has been invaluable.

some are natural marriages, like Seville orange and chocolate, and the tropical fruits in our Tropical Marmalade. For me, flavours must always have that wow factor on taste, that’s where I get the drive when I create new recipes. What is your favourite from your range? For me, the preserve that represents my brand in so many ways is the Blaisdon Red Plum Jam. It’s a locally grown heritage fruit. In fact, it’s a very rare fruit that just tastes incredible. The jam’s beauty is in the simplicity of just two ingredients – plums and sugar. It’s also versatile and can go equally well with cheese, gammon or sausages and, of course, buttery toast.

Like all good food, we start with the very best ingredients and everything else falls into place

With a phenomenal number of Great Taste stars and Golden Forks under your lid, what’s your secret? There’s no big secret, really. Like all good food, we start with the very best ingredients and everything else falls into place. When I started The Artisan Kitchen, I wasn’t an accomplished marmalade-maker, but I wouldn’t give up on trying to get the perfect preserve. I continually researched and improved my recipes and production methods, listened to my customers, and went from there. I am a perfectionist and, to this day, I’m continually tweaking recipes to make sure I make the very best I can. You have a very big range. What inspires you when concocting your creations? If you look at the marmalade range, you may think it’s drinking cocktails! In all seriousness though, flavours do have to work together,

What is the best thing about being a small business? I love my business to the point of obsession. I love the endless creativity it provides, flexibility for our family, fabulous customers and an ever-changing day of challenges and experiences. No day is ever the same.

WHAT’S NEW Offering an instant cup ramen without the artificial nasties is Mr Lee’s Ramen. With three variants available – Krazy About Katsu, Kicking Korean Beef, Golden Veggie Curry (vegan) – the range is low in sugar and saturated fats and contains all-natural ingredients. RRP £12 per box of six or £2 per cup. mrleesnoodles.com Premium condiment producer Stokes Sauces has launched a new range of MealMaking Sauces, comprising Red Wine & Green Peppercorn, Katsu Curry, Salsa Roja and Pomodoro. Each 175g jar has a simple three-step recipe on its label. The Red Wine & Green Peppercorn sauce has an RRP of £2.65 and trade price of £10.56 (6x175g) and the three other sauces have an RRP of £2.45 (trade £9.84). stokessauces. co.uk Ahmad Tea has launched a new range of decaffeinated teas to tap into the current wellness trend. The range comprises Decaffeinated Pure Black Tea, Decaffeinated Pure Green Tea, Decaffeinated Earl Grey and Decaffeinated Indulgent Selection (Cinnamon, Vanilla, Caramel, Chocolate & Hazelnut). RRP £2.99 for 20 teabags. uk.ahmadtea.com Premium nut butter brand Borna Foods has launched its first chocolate spread, combining reduced fat cocoa powder (the brand claims its spread contains double the cocoa powder of everyday chocolate spread brands), cocoa butter, cashew nuts, hazelnuts, and coconut sugar. The spread is also free from palm oil. bornafoods.com

…and the worst? There are never enough hours in the day, I’m continually tempted to work when I should be off relaxing. I’m still trying to work on that. What’s next for The Artisan Kitchen? I’ve just launched a new website to drive more online sales, so I’m excited to see where this can be taken. As always, I’ve got some new products in the pipeline and, of course, there’s Great Taste 2022 coming up too.

Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

DELI OF THE MONTH The tale of the Lodsworth Larder’s creation could be a storyline from the Archers, but, under the stewardship of an “unlikely partnership” , this eco-friendly village shop is anything but a drama. What’s more, the store’s managers have strengthened its local focus and breathed fresh life into this community enterprise. Interview by Tom Dale

It takes a village “IT HAS BEEN a community project right from the very start,” says Lesley Shaikh, co-manager of Lodsworth Larder, a small, communityled village store in West Sussex. “It’s always been something that has brought the village together.” After an agreement was struck with the landlord of the village pub to build a community shop in its car park, residents rallied to raise £150,000 to fund the traditional wooden structure, and then haul the A-frame structure into place. Two years after a first, tentative committee meeting, the Larder opened in 2009. Then, at the start of the pandemic Shaikh and Melanie Moss, a pair of shop volunteers, stepped up to take over the shop at a crucial time. The former headteacher and veteran retailer took the helm shortly after the public was placed under the first national lockdown and was flooding to the nation’s independents in search of consistent supply

chains and a safer shopping experience. The duo has since set about putting their mark on the business; introducing a wider range and renewing the shop’s local focus, while maintaining the community-led values that launched the shop over a decade earlier. Situated in the heart of the South Downs National Park in the small, bucolic village of Lodsworth – complete with hand-painted sign proudly displaying pastoral scenes found in the parish – the Larder’s origin story is anything but typical. “Everything in the village is done by committee,” says Shaikh. “So naturally, that’s how the shop came to be.” It was decided that the area needed a convenience store to help its ageing residents and as a community hub, and the group called on the help of Ben Law, a traditional builder made famous by Channel 4’s Grand Designs, and local architect Val Hinde.

Chestnut, oak, ash, and larch were sourced locally – the build’s cedar roof shingles travelled the farthest at eight miles – and no concrete or cement was used in the build. The result is small but striking, oozing rustic charm inside and out. Traditional wattle panelling bridges the balustrades of the covered display area in the front, and natural timbers – ageing beautifully – are exposed everywhere. The shop is staffed by around 10 regular volunteers – alongside another 10 ad-hoc helpers – ranging in age from retirees in their 70s to teenagers working towards their Duke of Edinburgh Award. “We try and mix the younger and older volunteers on the rota,” says Shaikh. “It’s nice to create those generational bridges to get people talking and learning from each other.” And that seems to be what Moss and Shaikh have been doing, too.

VITAL STATISTICS

Location: The Street, Lodsworth, West Sussex GU28 9BZ Turnover: £250,000 Average basket spend: £8 Retail space: 500 sq ft Average margin: 25% 64

April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

Lesley Shaikh and Melanie Moss

The self-described “unlikely partnership” has palpable rapport – even finishing each other’s sentences at times – and the success of the changes that they have made at the Larder speaks volumes. “It just works,” Shaikh says, speaking of the pairing. “We’re not exactly sure how, but it does.” Together, they have grown the shop’s offer, increasing the breadth of the range, bringing in more small local suppliers and some more high-end and ‘treat’ lines while keeping the ‘everyday’ items that were popular during the pandemic. Shaikh says that Lodsworth is “a very broad church” – despite the appearance of several customers driving luxury cars – and as such, the offer must be for everyone. “You need to have a pesto for a couple of pounds,” says Moss, “but then we also need one that costs £5 from…” she gestures to Shaikh to pronounce ‘Seggiano’ for her. “But you have to be able to justify it.” Moss’s background selling high-end furniture and antiques meant she had good grounding in retail strategy, and she certainly understands the importance of a product’s story. “The local produce is great for that,” she says. From bringing in more fresh fruit and vegetables from Sussex to searching out small artisan makers, Moss and Shaikh have curated a selection that is helping define the shop’s identity and create a unique offer that keeps customers coming back. Brands like SØDT bakery and Sprinkles & Twinkles doughnuts have a local fanbase that creates repeat custom. When the impressive-looking sweet treats are restocked, Shaikh puts out a post on social media and the village descends, she says. The Larder’s Facebook and Instagram pages have also been put to use to drive traffic to the store’s themed events – another change brought in by the pair – such as Valentine’s specials and Italian nights making use of Seggiano sauces and pasta. Events also give the pair a chance to show off their flair for merchandising, something

that was lacking previously. “You need to keep the environment changing,” says Moss. “Keeping it exciting for the customers and moving things around.” “It’s amazing what shifting a product to a new spot can do for sales, and it all helps create a good retail experience.” When FFD visits, the pair has put on a subtle-but-impactful Easter display of eggs, lambs and springtime greenery, and, they say, doing so always creates a talking point – good or bad. The village is relatively small, having a population of less than 1,000, but the residents are committed to supporting the shop. “We’re offering much more than just a pint of milk and a loaf of bread. We’re here for a chat and support, and during the pandemic, we were the only interaction some people were getting.” Shaikh says they sometimes play the role of shopkeepers-cum-therapists and that the pair are confided in frequently. “People know they can talk to us about anything, they know we’ll be discreet and if we can help, we will,” says Moss. “We’re trusted.” But the shop’s scope is broader than just the village’s residents. While Shaikh and Moss admit they do not see nearby estatebased Cowdray Farm Shop as competition – “We can never be a destination like that,” they both concede – that hasn’t stopped Lodsworth Larder from drawing in repeat custom from out of town. “Cyclists have been a great market for us,” says Moss. “It’s got so popular in the Downs, particularly with Londoners – and they talk.” “We’ve been added as a point of interest on cycling app Strava,” adds Shaikh. “And they love to stop in for a coffee and a cake.” Another group making the most of the South Downs National Park – and the Larder – are walkers. Shaikh says they have become an ad-hoc tourist information centre as ramblers use the pub and shop car park as

MUST-STOCKS Bread and pastries from SØDT Picnic & Hamper cakes, quiches & deli items Youngs the Butchers sausage rolls and pasties Authentic samosas from North London Charlie's Trout Weald Smokery charcuterie Susana and Daughters Cowdray Estate Kefir Mud Foods pies Stopham Vineyard wines Langham Brewery beers and ales Duffs Diner curries, fish cakes & fish pies Fruit & vegetables from Chef's Farms Hettie Hen gourmet scotch eggs Bella's Apple Juice Petworth Honey Crosbies cakes

CONTINUED ON PAGE 67

Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

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THE UNMISTAKABLE GOODNESS OF GAROFALO PASTA FOR EVERYONE

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All our pasta is suitable for Vegans 66

April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

All our Gluten Free pasta is Crossed Grain Certified

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DELI OF THE MONTH their base and pop in to request a good route. This cohort represents a second selling opportunity when they return to their cars after lunch in The Hollist Arms and pop in looking for some rural produce to take home to the Capital. “Visitors from London love to pick up some jam or a chutney and some local cheese to take back with them either as a gift or a treat,” says Moss. “We like to capture those people stopping at the pub.” Another growing market – partly brought on by COVID – is staycationers. The village has several Airbnb holiday rental properties, and the pair has agreements with owners to promote the Larder, some even providing welcome packs with produce from the store. Tourists – often taking short weekend breaks from London – are drawn in by the shop’s local range, and focus on sustainability. The building is equipped with solar panels and has no dedicated heating, instead relying on a heat recovery system that recirculates the heat generated by the shop’s fridges and freezers to heat the space in winter. The shop also avoids plastic wherever possible. They try to work with brands that are dropping plastic from their supply chains

– including SØDT which has shifted to compostable bio-materials – and the Larder’s branded bags are all paper, while residents drop off used plastic bags to be recused in the shop. They even tried using wicker shopping baskets in place of the usual plastic fare, but the pair abandoned them after a few too many incidents of chasing produce across the car park after they were left outside and deteriorated. “Plastic will have to do for now,” says Moss. “In this case, it’s the easier option,” she laughs. But waste is an issue that the pair want to increasingly tackle going forward. “It’s one thing that’s shocked me about food retail,” says Moss, adding that the operation is making strides in this area by donating leftover food to a local foodbank, and taking steps to reduce overordering. “We need to get better, but we’re on our way,” she says. The pair also has hopes to extend the building, turning the shop’s outdoor seating area – currently covered by a temporary gazebo – into a permanent structure, something the enterprise was unable to do before. Before Moss and Shaikh took over, the business was operating at a loss. It is now in the black. “We are a community shop and not

run for profit,” says Shaikh, “but if we want to provide more for the community, we need to make a little.” Expanding and improving the seating area will provide residents looking for to get out of the house somewhere nicer to sit and relax and give those cyclists somewhere better to enjoy their coffee and cake. The pair are also wanting to swap their bean-to-cup coffee machine to a larger commercial espresso maker to further improve the offer. They are somewhat restricted by an agreement with their landlord to not encroach on the pub’s offer, sticking to snacks and cakes, but you can be sure this won’t be a challenge for the retailers. The pair have evidently found a second calling in the challenge of running a small but impressive retail operation and serving the community. Their enthusiasm for the ethos of the shop, the lines they stock and the people they support is evident and the success of the transformation they have overseen is proof of its effectiveness. “We would never have guessed that this is what we’d be doing two years ago, and that the partnership would work so well,” says Shaikh, “But it just does.” lodsworthlarder.com

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www.folkingtons.com Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

GUILD TALK

View from HQ

By John Farrand managing director

BREXIT. COVID. ENERGY crisis. Inflation. Conflict. Not in order of how much impact they are having on our trade, but as a collective they are certainly challenging us all. I'll start by stating that the obvious adverse effects on our trade do not compare to the tragic situation unfolding in Ukraine. We must separate the human tragedy from food shortages, price increases and any other secondary downturn.

news from the guild of fine food Many of you will know that we’ve been working towards World Cheese 2022 in Ukraine for over two years and, as a result, have formed relationships with the team at ProCheese, based in Kyiv. The global cheese community is a small and close one. The messages that we have received from judges who met the Ukraine contingent in Oviedo in 2021 have been genuine and heartfelt. So much so that we have mobilised a JustGiving page – justgiving.com/worldcheeseawards – to make a very small but positive difference. Give if you can. Brexit gives us import and export headaches and that is not going away. COVID played havoc with staffing and seems to be rearing its head again. But it is the energy and inflation constraint that could trouble us the most. We can all see it. The direct debit increases on our electricity bills and the fact that my car cost £113 to fill up this week means everything costs more as oil, gas and electricity are at the heart of production, packaging, transport, waste and anything else

The Word on Westminster By Edward Woodall ACS

THE USUAL CUT and thrust of Westminster politics has been put on hold as the UK Government, and governments across the world, respond to the illegal invasion of Ukraine. These actions by Russia have disrupted the geopolitical balance and the global economy and will have repercussions for decades to come. It has also refocused the Government’s mind on both energy security and food security, which has a significant impact on household budgets and businesses’ operating costs. The planned announcements of many Government policies like the food white paper are now on hold indefinitely. One area that the government cannot afford to remove its focus

from is the cost-of-living and -ofdoing-business crisis facing the country. Inflation rates are rising and look like they will hit double digits this year and will remain high for a long period. Energy bills are increasing sharply, and it appears a further increase to the energy cap will be needed later in the year. The labour market has become much tighter, making it more costly and difficult to recruit. As a result, we will all be looking to Chancellor Rishi Sunak to offer some support in the Spring Statement. But the public finances remain in a difficult position postCOVID and the Chancellor has personally endorsed an acrossthe-board increase in National Insurance Contributions (NICs) that will further add to cost increases. This doesn’t leave the Chancellor with many options, but we have made the case for the Treasury to focus on how they can continue to

news from the guild of fine food

you can think of in the cycle of making and selling food and drink. And food inflation could give us an unseen downer: we were winning the fight during lockdown against the stereotype of ‘local shop equals expensive shop’. Our customers

Great Taste 2022 judging underway

Smaller retailers should share the burden of inflation with producers now see the benefit of better food & drink and valuing it, and there’s a danger that escalating costs may reverse that upper. Why? I have a theory that the supermarkets will squeeze their suppliers as hard as they can to negate cost hikes, while the smaller retailers will need (and should) share the burden of that inflation with the producers and the rest of us, however challenging that is. support businesses to invest, grow and sustain employment levels. In our recommendations to the Chancellor, we have called for an extension to existing business rates reliefs funds to reduce cost increases and a freeze in the 2023 business rates multiplier, which is linked to CPI inevitably resulting in significantly increased business rates bills across the high street in 2023. We have also called for a cut to fuel duty, increasing the starting point for employer NICs. Why are these recommendations important? It takes the edge off of rising costs for businesses now but it also supports them to invest in the long term. We believe that the path to recovery and sound public finances will be delivered by a tax and regulatory framework that supports private sector investment. Edward Woodall is government relations director at the ACS edward.woodall@acs.org.uk

Food industry experts drawn from the Guild’s panel of 500 judges have flocked to the Guild's London and Dorset offices for judging, as Great Taste 2022 got underway last month. Over 3,500 products have gone before the judges across the two locations, with 3-star products already emerging from the pack. As FFD went to the press, 17 judging days had been completed as the experts make their way through the 14,205 products entered into this year’s awards. gff.co.uk/greattaste

Retail cheese training courses With two sold-out courses already completed at Guild HQ in Dorset and No. 42 in London, the Guild is looking forward to further courses in London, Harrogate and Scotland. Turophiles in the North can attend the Guild’s retail cheese trade training to be held the day after this year's Fine Food Show North in Harrogate, on 29th June, while London's No. 42 will host the one-day course on 4th July and 15th September. A venue is yet to be confirmed for the course north of the border, which will be held on 20th September. Presented by two experts in the field, Patrick McGuigan & Emma Young, the course costs £150 for Guild members and £195 for non-members. gff.co.uk/training/cheese

The Guild of Fine Food represents fine food shops and specialist suppliers. Want to join them? GENERAL ENQUIRIES Guild of Fine Food Guild House, 23b Kingsmead Business Park, Shaftesbury Road, Gillingham, Dorset SP8 5FB UK Tel: +44 (0) 1747 825200 Fax: +44 (0) 1747 824065 info@gff.co.uk gff.co.uk

THE GUILD TEAM: Managing director: John Farrand Special projects director: Tortie Farrand Sales director: Sally Coley Operations & marketing director: Christabel Cairns

Sales manager: Ruth Debnam Sales executive: Becky Haskett

Operations coordinators: Chris Farrand Sepi Rowshanaei

Marketing manager: Sophie Brentnall

Financial controller: Stephen Guppy Finance director: Ashley Warden Accounts assistant: Julie Coates

Operations managers: Claire Powell Meredith White

gff.co.uk Chairman: Bob Farrand Director: Linda Farrand

Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

FINE_FOOD_DIGEST_AD_MAR22_V2_HR.pdf

09/03/2022

11:59

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Vol.23 Issue 3 | April 2022

FFD April 2022

Articles inside

GUILD TALK

CHEESEWIRE

NEWS

DELI OF THE MONTH

CHARCUTERIE

OUTDOOR DINING SPECIAL: OILS & VINEGARS; DRESSINGS & SAUCES; ICE CREAM; BEERS, WINES & SPIRITS; MIXERS & MOCKTAILS

SHELF TALK

SHOP TALK

OPINION DIVERSITY IN FOOD & DRINK