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It hasn’t rained for at least 48 hours, there are lambs in the fields and I swear I heard the chime of an ice cream van through the (now) open windows of our officesBy Michael Lane, editor
It struck me that I’ve been a bit on a bit of a downer in the last couple of these monthly missives. So, I’m resolving to deliver a slice of positivity to go with this first issue of the spring quarter.
After all, the season must be changing. It hasn’t rained for at least 48 hours, there are lambs in the fields and I swear I heard the chime of an ice cream van through the (now) open windows of our offices the other day. Just to drag out the cliché, I have emerged from hibernation to get out a bit more in the run-up to publishing this magazine.
One of these trips was a firsttime visit to a long-running event. It was a first for me in more ways than that, though. It was the first time I’ve ever entered a venue to be greeted with a wall of noise that sounded more like a pub than a trade show. It was the first time I’d ever seen a show stand that was entirely filled with a children’s ball
pit. And it was the first time I’ve ever departed an event alongside someone wearing a novelty hat clutching a freebie inflatable lilo.
I don’t know if all bar industry events are like this one but I did enjoy this well-oiled approach to B2B (yes, of course I had a couple of samples!). That said, I still find the way we do things in the retail world a bit more refreshing.
The week before, I had been at the Farm Retail Association’s conference, dubbed Stronger Together. While I missed the tour section on the first day, which included a visit to a crocodile farm, I attended the awards ceremony (results on page 6) and the lively conversations around the tables were continued during the following day’s line-up of talks.
The hot topics of the economy and Ultra Processed Foods (on which you’ll find more on in the news section) were both discussed, as was the positive
role that rural retailers can play in these narratives. There were also inspiring sessions on visual merchandising, diversification and succession.
The most impactful talk for me, though, was a frightening glimpse into the capabilities of AI, as someone demonstrated how it could generate an asparagusthemed café menu, a covering letter for a retail position and an entire new starter induction course in a matter of seconds. While its speed of thought and writing made me feel professionally under threat, the good news is that AI will prove very useful for retailers with big admin burdens. It might even replace me and spare you any more of these leaders.
Until then, I hope to bump into you at the forthcoming Farm Shop & Deli Show (full preview on page 45) later this month – and we can get drunk together on the opportunities and possibilities for our market.
Does the world need more fancy crisps? In a HFSSconcerned world, that is a worthy question, which I am glad to answer in the affirmative. Rustle Chips has delivered the goods, with a truffle flavour, a jalepeño one, and one we didn’t know needed upgrading: the comforting, familiar European staple that is the paprika crisp. They’re made with potatoes that taste the part, 100% sunflower oil and top notch Hungarian paprika. More on p. 57.
Independents say Budget fell short of boosting consumer confidence
By Greg PitcherIndependent food retailers have called for ministers to create better conditions for consumer spending after a lukewarm reaction to the final Budget before the general election.
Chancellor Jeremy Hunt slashed National Insurance rates by 2p in the pound at the set piece event in Parliament in March, as well as reforming Child Benefit to allow higher earners to claim.
Elsewhere, fuel and alcohol duty were frozen into next year and the annual revenue needed before registering for VAT increased by £5,000.
British Independent Retailers Association chief executive Andrew Goodacre said there was a “glimmer of hope” that the Budget would encourage spending.
But he added: “I am not sure that consumer confidence is any better because somehow National
Insurance cuts are not as powerful as Income Tax cuts.”
With prime minister Rishi Sunak having indicated that an election is likely to take place in the autumn, Goodacre said it was “too early” to know if the government had done enough to win retailer votes.
“We need to see lower inflation, energy bills and interest rates,” he said. “We expect to see all of these after April and we can hopefully look forward to a stronger second half of 2024 for all independent retailers.”
Farm Retail Association chair Emma Mosey agreed that greater economic stability was needed.
“Any way the chancellor can help businesses escape the constant battle to reduce costs would be appreciated,” she said. “This would allow us to focus on growth rather than attempting to paddle
upstream only to find ourselves remaining stationary.”
Mosey called for a review of business rates “to allow bricks and mortar businesses to grow and flex in the same way online businesses can”.
“On the flipside, the increase to minimum wage levels, and the NI cut, as well as the freeze on fuel and booze prices means that many people will have more money in their pockets to spend in small businesses.”
Association of
Scottish Food & drink producers met up with buyers from around the world at Showcasing Scotland 2024 in Edinburgh last month.
Aimed at promoting exports and organised by Food & Drink the 1,822 1:1 speed-dating style meetings between March 5th-7th were said to
have generated £77m in potential sales, with 37.5% of buyers saying they were “certain” to spend more on Scottish products after attending the event.
First minister and leader of the Scottish National Party Humza Yousaf told delegates: “Our food and drink sector is a massive success story – it adds
around £15 billion each year to our economy, with more than 17,000 businesses employing almost 130,000 people.
“I want to see this sector growing in the years to come, and events like Showcasing Scotland are absolutely vital in helping to spread Scotland’s finest produce across the globe.”
IN BRIEF
Dark Woods Coffee achieved a high score of 147.4 when it recertified as B Corp last month.
The Yorkshire-based roaster has expanded its community and charitable work, support for smallholder suppliers and sustainable efforts.
Convenience Stores
executive James Lowman said: “The National Insurance cut and increase in child benefit thresholds will encourage more people into work, relieving pressure on an incredibly tight labour market.”
But he added: “We heard nothing from the Chancellor today on the future path of the National Living Wage, which we urge clarity on as soon as possible to help convenience retailers prepare for expected rates in 2025 and beyond.”
Whole Foods Market is closing its Fulham and Richmond stores, as well as its distribution centre in Dartford. The retailer’s losses increased by 53% in 2022, totalling £26.3m.
The NPCC says its Retail Crime Action Plan set out last October to tackle a massive surge in shoplifting is beginning to bear fruits. Data supplied by the Co-op showed that the frequency of police not showing up to reported incidents was down from 79% to 38%.
Tesco boosts wages ahead of National Living Wage hike
Tesco is to pay store workers more than £12 an hour after the National Living Wage rose to £11.44 this April.
The retail giant announced that it was boosting base-level remuneration for shopbased employees by exactly £1 an hour.
Those working inside the M25 will see an even greater rise to £13.15, in line with the Living Wage Foundation’s Londonweighted Real Living Wage. Meanwhile the legally enforced National Living Wage will jump by almost a tenth on 1st April, and broadened to include more workers. The new rate of £11.44
will be payable to all staff over the age of 21, rather than kicking in when they turn 23.Workers aged 18 to 20 will be entitled to £8.60 per hour, up from £7.49, while apprentice rates are also rising.
BIRA CEO Andrew Goodacre warned that the minimum wage increases had knock-on impacts for businesses.
“Because of the way it has closed the gap between those paid hourly and monthly, salaried staff are now also expecting 10% rises. Is it funding economic growth? Economists say it does and yet businesses are paying for it without any immediate or obvious impact.”
Awareness of UPF dangers gives indies a point of difference from the multiples
By Greg PitcherNew research showing the catastrophic consequences of over-reliance on ultraprocessed food should prompt more independent food retailers to promote the health benefits of their produce, key figures have urged.
An academic study led by Australia’s Deakin University published in the British Medical Journal found an alarming connection between eating heavily altered products and serious illness.
“Greater exposure to ultra-processed food was associated with a higher risk of adverse health outcomes, especially cardiometabolic, common mental disorder and mortality outcomes,” it warned.
Laura Roberts, owner of Laura’s Larder in Bromley said public awareness of the link between regularly eating heavily manufactured items and getting sick
presented a “huge opportunity” for specialists.
“Marketing the benefits beyond quality is an area we sometimes fall down on,” she said. “Conversationally we are doing it well but we haven’t worked out how to capture it in our messaging.
“Keeping ultraprocessed food intake down is on the agenda and it goes hand-in-hand with food miles and quality. We have a locally made granola, and eating that every day will be better for you than most supermarket-bought cereal.”
Although heavily altered meals can be cheaper than artisan alternatives, if their nutritional value is lower, people might end up eating again, making them a “false economy” according to Roberts.
She called for the government to create a mandatory processing score for food labels.
“It makes me angry that we have to prove we are good but people don’t have
UK households see rise in disposable income
The average family had 6% more disposable income at the start of 2024 than a year earlier, according to the ASDA Income Tracker, compiled by the Centre for Economics and Business Research. The report showed that a typical UK household had £230 per week of earnings left after taxes and basic spending in January 2024 - £13.13 more than in the same month in 2023 - as incomes rose and essential costs dropped.
Among the top 20% of earners, the growth in spending power was even greater. Those in the top salary quintile had an average of £823 leftover
to do anything to say they are bad.”
Tash Gorst, co-founder of Gather in London, also called on ministers to intervene.
“It would be good if government could do something to help – good food is better for everyone and better for the state,” she said. “Also the more people eat good food, the cheaper it will become.”
Gorst mooted the idea of direct funding for unprocessed produce.
“Cost is a big barrier. Subsidies would help, perhaps to wholesalers
with a mandate to pass the saving on to customers.”
Sangita Tryner, founder of Delilah Fine Foods, said footfall had risen in the Nottingham deli in line with increased chatter about the dangers of ultraprocessed food.
“There is an opportunity for the sector to talk more about the health benefits,” she said.
“Do bigger delis put resource into it to spread the word or do they rely on people knowing it? We hold regular events, which give us the opportunity to talk to people.
WHAT THEY ARE SAYING ABOUT... …DISCUSSING THE HEALTH BENEFITS OF FOOD
“Lots of people use the Zoe app, and I am amazed that so much of the stuff in this shop comes up better for you than supermarket products. I tell people ‘Zoe rated that as 86/100’. We also put ingredients together as a suggested meal on social media, and that would allow us to talk about how our products are better than ultra-processed counterparts.”
this January, an 8% hike from a year earlier.
Over-75 households saw their spending power grow almost four times as quickly as under-30s.
“All age groups are expected to witness an acceleration in the rate of spending power growth, as the economy recovers from the technical recession,” said the report.
Families in London had more than double the disposable income of those in the North East.
“The outlook for 2024 is showing signs of improvement,” says the report.
“Economic growth will support spending power growth moving forward.”
The finalists in the Farm Shop & Deli Retailer Awards 2024 have been named ahead of the winners’ announcement on 29th April. Among them are Caws in Wales, the Norfolk Delicatessen, Yolk Farm, Broom House Farm (pictured below), Bells Fishmongers, The House of Bruar and Blas ar Fwyd. Nominees were selected to represent the best in one of 11 specialist retailer categories: Baker, Butcher, Cheesemonger, Delicatessen, Large Farm Shop, Small Farm Shop, Fishmonger, Food Hall, Greengrocer, Independent Local Food Shop and Online Business. Seven businesses will also be celebrated as the best in Region – and one will receive the top title of Retailer of the Year. The reveal will take place at the Farm Shop & Deli trade show at the NEC in Birmingham. event.farmshopanddelishow.co.uk
“We do wine and food matching evenings which are an opportunity to talk about ingredients more than at a busy till. People care about the health benefits of food. We did events linked to local doctor Sally Bell, matching our menus to the topics she talked about, and those sold out. There is a high level of interest.”
“Taste and health are intrinsically linked – we get a lot of customers saying how delicious our food is but that is because it is very high quality. We have focused more on the environmental benefits than health. We talk about the benefits of organic food for people and planet but we could do more and I think we will.”
FRA celebrates the best in the game at annual farm shop awards
By Tanwen Dawn-HiscoxThe Farm Retail Association revealed the award winners for 2024 among its 325 UK members at its annual conference in Peterborough last month.
Described as “a fabulous farm shop focused on Yorkshire produce,” with an exemplary butchery, delicatessen and new restaurant, the winner in the Large Farm Shop of the Year category was Farmer Copleys. The Pontefract-based farm shop also took the title of Best Pick Your Own of the Year.
Heather Copley, CEO of Farmer Copleys, said: “We’re blown away, not just winning one but two awards.
“It means so much to us, as these awards are voted for by our peers and I’m so pleased the efforts of the whole team have
Sainsbury’s to let 1,500 employees go
Sainsbury’s is set to c ut 1,500 jobs across the business as part of i ts plan to simplify the business and improve availability in stores. Most of the cuts will come from head office, customer service, instore bakeries and the general merchandise supply chain. CEO Simon Roberts said the Next Level Sainsbury’s Strategy will help shave £1bn f rom the supermarket’s operations on top of the £1.3bn already cut, through investment in AI forecasting and technology. Savings are to be reinvested in the business, primarily into food and groceries.
been rewarded.”
Alder Carr Farm Shop in Suffolk was named Small Farm Shop of the Year while Runcton Farm Shops was deemed to have the Best Farm Café/ Restaurant of the Year for its menu “centred around outstanding produce, in a bright and fresh setting with lots of natural light”. Being less than two years old, the Chichester Shop’s use of renewables and impressive product range earned it the title of Rising Star of the Year, too. Butchery of the Year
went to Welbeck Farm Shop in Nottingham while Barnard Castle Farmers Market ranked highest in the market category.
Industry consultant Fresh Retail Group was named Associate Member of the Year, and Abbey Leys Community Farmer’s Market Janet Harrison was given the Lifetime Achievement Award.
This was to celebrate her work promoting farmers’ markets around the UK and internationally, as one of the people behind the World Farmers’
DOWN ON THE FARM
Jolly Nice Farm Shop in Gloucestershire is expanding. As well as locally sourced produce, baked treats and store cupboard essentials, it will soon feature a café and bar with seating for 100+ customers.
jollynicefarmshop.com
A butcher and delicatessen in Suffolk has had to change its name from Fodder to Reuben’s after the owners realised the name was trademarked by the eponymous farm
Markets Coalition.
The chair of the trade organisation, Emma Mosey said: “Congratulations to all of our winners whose dedication and passion is reflected in the standard of their businesses.
“We thank them for their commitment to the industry which they help to grow and thrive.”
The award ceremony was part of a three-day annual FRA conference which included farm shop tours, an AGM, guest speakers and topical workshops.
The conference included practical workshops and guest speakers including Olympic Gold Medalist, Ben Hunt-Davis, Becky Miles of Real Success and International Guest Speaker, Richard McCarthy, President of the World Farmers Market Coalition.
IN BRIEF
Mediterranean food specialist Odysea can now label its range of Greek honey as raw, having proved to Trading Standards that it never heats it above its natural temperature, and processes it minimally.
Ocado is the latest grocer to have added a ‘Buy British’ tab on its website. It joins fellow supermarket giants Sainsbury’s, Aldi and Morrisons in doing so, as searches for British produce were up 77% year-on-year.
A drop in exports of Argentinian peanuts to Europe is causing a surge in the price of peanut butter The reduction in the volume of exports was caused by a drought during growing season, and lower plantings due to higher growing costs.
shop in Harrogate, North Yorkshire.
Felixstowe Farm Shop and PYO, Goslings Farm Shop, suddenly closed on March 1st. The owners announced the news on their Google profile, but didn’t say why they were closing, or what the plans for the site are.
The owners of the Norfolk Showground are seeking £1m to complete a £3.2m farm shop & café project. The development would include a delicatessen, a 140-seater restaurant, a butchery and an outdoor seating area.
A mother and son are set to open a farm shop at Rectory Farm in Worling-
ton, near Mildenhall. Seed Farm Shop will sell crops grown on the farm, local produce, plants and a selection of homeware designed and made by the owners. Takeaway teas, coffees and cakes will also be available.
facebook.com/seedfarmshop
Westacre Farm in Norfolk as been given the go ahead for a new farm shop to replace the “honesty box” produce shed that is currently keeping the locals fed with milk, ice-cream and meat.
facebook.com/ tawriverdairy
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CHRIS HALLAM, Manager, Chorlton Cheesemongers, Chorlton-cum-Hardy, ManchesterI spent most of my life working in theatre and have always loved storytelling and engaging with audiences. In 2011, I did an MA in theatre directing, which was amazing, but made me question my life and yearn simplicity. I went to work for Neal’s Yard and their attitude towards food inspired me. I could see that food offered an honest way of connecting with people.
I was doing a lot of work with cheesemaker Graham Kirkham, and we started talking about opening a shop that could help him reach a wider audience. We became the Manchester home of Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire.
Lancashire is the heart of our counter, which is a selection of the most inspiring and exciting raw milk and pasteurised cheeses from The British Isles and Ireland, championing quality and traceability. Our cheeses are made on small farms, by family run businesses and independent dairies – all of whom have stories to tell about their products, their processes and their histories. We want to give these cheesemakers a presence, a physicality, a platform. When we do get non-British cheeses in, it is because they are exceptional regional examples.
Every year between October and December we have to put our lives on hold – it is all about the shop. The rest of the year, the challenge is maintaining the customer experience, and making sure we are always interesting. We do this through cheesemaking and tasting events, both in our shop and other venues. For summer, we’re planning two regional focuses on Greece and Italy. We will bring in some European cheeses and team up with a chef who will cook some cheese-based dishes. We will also invite a baker who regularly sets up at the front and sells his products, along with a Greek yoghurt producer. Pop-ups with small food producers are something we are looking to do more of.
Having a fluid layout is key to delivering this variety. We designed the shop as a completely flexible space from the outset. Everything is on wheels. This gives us the freedom to move things whenever we want. For tasting events, we clear the space and seat 24 people at two long tables. We’d like to have a presence in Manchester city centre and are in discussions with a retailer about having a concession. That will no doubt bring new challenges, as we’ll have to look at different ways of presenting and wrapping our cheese. The idea of vacuum packing is anathema to me but if it means we can be in more places, talking about the brilliant work our cheesemakers are doing, it is worth it.
Interview Lynda Searby Photography Stefanos AktipisIT MUST APPEAR, dear reader, that I am always on a train. Possibly because I am, or possibly because I get inspiration for this piece gazing out of carriage windows. While train companies can be unreliable, there’s more current available through the rails than there is in the EV charging network, so the electric car stays at home.
Those moments of relative calm contemplating the vista elicit many middle-aged thoughts. Why do people have artificial grass in their gardens? Why graffiti when it’s not even very good? What’s happened to the quality of university tuition?
If you’re at my stage of life, you’ll be bored of your mates chuntering
GREAT TASTE GOLDEN FORKS 2024
The Great Taste Golden Forks awards ceremony will return to the Battersea Arts Centre on Tuesday 10th September for the annual celebration of Great Taste winners.
Bringing the industry together, the Golden Forks is an opportunity to discover some new food & drink, try a range of exceptional, products and meet the dedicated people creating them. Ideal for finding your next star supplier.
Open to all in the industry, tickets will go on sale in the summer
View from HQ
FFD’s publisher and Guild of Fine Food managing director John Farrand has his say
that their kids have only two and a half hours of lectures a week, while paying the same tuition fees as those with 16 plus hours. It’s a reality and one that should concern the nation. Most of our graduates are doing very ordinary, expensive degrees lacking any academic rigour, and probably should have swerved university education altogether.
But it wasn’t the academic, it was the pastoral that I was mulling on the train back from Durham, after visiting our daughter who is enjoying her second term. She’s doing well, making friends, working hard, and immersing herself in the nocturnal highlights of the city. There was a ‘but’. She’s a nineteenyear-old girl, there’s always a ‘but’.
“The room in halls is fine, Dad, but the catering…”, her voice fades away, the eyes roll. She whinges on about the lack of choice and the general disregard for nutrition. And she has a point. Food and drink in our universities, hospitals, prisons and importantly, our schools, is never going to be Michelin-starred, but it could be better for us.
Mr Ashley, head of Redbridge Community School in Southampton, agrees. In a publicspirited self-admission, he has gone on record stating the food served in his own school canteen is “completely unacceptable”. He then asked Chartwell, the contract caterer, how tricky it was to cook a decent baked potato, implying that the food was unnecessarily over-processed. In a coup de grace, he said: “If my own children were served it, I would be
exceptionally unhappy.”
Food and drink in our schools is never going to be Michelin-starred, but it could be better for us
That public sector nutritional hand grenade breaks as I travel back from Nottingham from the 2024 Defra National Food & Drink Summit. Also by train. A good gathering engaging its delegates on sustainability, the minefield of exports, and a lively debate on (you guessed it) public procurement. The thread encouraged government to inject funds and the know-how to source from local, smaller providers, rather than the sector’s soulless monoliths. They would source from local producers and circulate the local pound, supporting local people, whose children go to local schools. Children, who perhaps, get their one proper meal a day at school. Could do better.
My mind wanders on the train and I ponder if Mr Ashley ever travels on East Midlands Railway from Nottingham. He may have something to say about the last sandwich left in the ‘Buffet on Rails’ that I am forced to eat as I type. A vegan sausage sandwich. Let’s sort the schools out first, eh?
The Word on Westminster
By Edward Woodall Association of Convenience StoresTHE SPRING BUDGET was for many businesses a bit of a damp squib, with no further action on reducing business rates and no clarification on how National Living Wage rates will be set in the future.
Business support measures such as extensions to VAT thresholds or the extension of leased assets don’t cut it for fine food retailers and other high street businesses. But was this really a surprise? The Budget reflected more about the political landscape than the economic landscape.
The Chancellor wanted this to be the first of many small steps towards people feeling slightly better off in 2024. Cuts to NI and additional child benefit support will make a big difference to the people we employ, and that’s a good thing.
Other steps on the way to
the General Election that will make us all feel better off are the continued reduction in inflation, declining energy bills, and relative growth in earnings. But does the government have enough time for this to take effect?
Even with an election in the latter half of the year looking much more likely, it will be an uphill struggle to inspire confidence that financial wellbeing is growing. Infighting within the Conservative party could further destabilise the fragile political consensus on the right of British politics.
One area that will drive consensus is growth creation, but this was not a big enough feature of the Chancellor’s narrative in the last Budget.
Whoever leads the next administration will have to find a way to promote more business investment to stimulate growth and employment opportunities.
Tax incentives on business rates would mean more investment in
stores and services locally. Imagine if bringing a café or new officelicence into your business was offset by a business rates reduction rather than an increase because of the risk and the investment. And imagine if increasing hours for key staff didn’t mean higher National Insurance contributions.
Measures to incentivise innovation, growth and investment are essential to growing the economy and spreading that growth around the whole country.
Therefore, my plea to the Chancellor and Prime Minister as they move closer to the General Election is to make support for business part of the case for economic growth that will make everyone feel more confident. They might even have a chance to do this in a second fiscal event of 2024.
CONFESSIONS OF A DELI OWNER
ANONYMOUS TALES FROM BEHIND THE COUNTER
I AM SAD to say that I will retire from making these anonymous confessions later this year. Including this one, I have three more articles to write from behind the marble. It has been very therapeutic, this. We deli & farm shop types are quite alone in some ways, and this has been an enjoyable way of venting my frustrations. So, thank you, reader. This has got me thinking about what I would have done differently as a retailer, given the opportunity.
Would I do it all again? Most years, I would have said “no”, as I have seen my friends prosper more than me, with their generous pension schemes and luxurious holidays. I frequently wish I had chosen a more lucrative career.
I was chatting to a friend recently, who said they had rather disastrously opened second premises. It had gone pear-shaped and they had to row back. What I didn’t know was that they had
Retail eye
bought the second shop and it was now happily rented out. I don’t call that a disaster, that’s a good save.
So these are the three things I would do differently. Firstly, I would buy my shop. Secondly, I would pay off the mortgage on my shop, and thirdly, I would retire on the income from renting out my shop.
Arguably, that’s one point, not three things, but what I mean is that not buying my shop has made saving, pensions and staying afloat
My landlord never did 20-hour days on December 22nd to put shoes on his children’s feet
ROSIE JACK, BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER AT BOWHOUSE & BALCASKIE ESTATE ON WHY RETAILERS SHOULD MEET PRODUCERS
Hands up, we’re not a farm shop. Bowhouse isn’t even a traditional retail space. It’s a space that brings together different artisan producers, giving them somewhere to make but also to sell; and access to a literal market through our monthly Bowhouse Market Weekends.
We’ve created an opportunity for consumers to meet, chat and buy direct from producers. Yes, t allows them to sample produce but it’s also a way for them to hear the stories behind the product and to experience them in an exciting, sensory way.
This doesn’t just create a unique retail experience; it also builds trust. These short supply chains engage customers and show them why it’s worth buying a particular product. From unique flours milled on site to organic meat and vegetables grown in the surrounding fields, meeting the people involved is honest and transparent and conveys the enthusiasm and expertise that goes into their products.
This format also works well for smaller
when times are tough much harder. I actually believe that my 20-odd years of trading have done more to fill my landlord’s pockets than my own.
And if I’m being honest, I do resent that fact. He never did 20hour days on 22nd December to put shoes on his children’s feet. The (real) second thing I should have done is learn about wine 20 years ago. A good wine shop within my offer would probably have added £20,000 to my bottom line most years. I would have had to sacrifice some space, or get a bigger premises, but I could have done it without making a massive difference to my business model.
The third thing? I’m scratching my head a bit. Perhaps I’d have liked a function room for events. Or maybe some outside tables. Or maybe to have had a farm-shoptype location with real car parking. Any of those things would have been nice, I suppose.
But despite my university friends going on to more lucrative careers, there is a strange contradiction: most of them envy me. They may not want to be me, if the opportunity to swap was there, but my slow-lane life – with great food on the table, time for my family and respect from my community – has been a good life.
producers without a huge marketing budget. Customer feedback is crucial and can help shape new product development and innovation.
Bowhouse is a collective with different spaces for sales: within individual production units, brewery taprooms, retail spaces within the café and at our markets. Often, we’re able to provide customers with hands-on activities that really involve them in food and drink. We’ve built a community of businesses here that can work together to share costs and innovate. We launched a campaign to open the doors to other producers and continue to grow the group of businesses based here, so the process is ongoing.
Ultimately, having a group of independent and creative makers come together in this way is hugely appealing to customers and provides a sales opportunity that’s valuable to both customers and producers.
Short supply chains engage customers and show them why it’s worth buying a particular product
102% the percentage by which Google searches for “nonalcoholic beer” rose between January 2023 and January 2024. In the same timeframe, searches for “ non-alcoholic red wine” grew by 48%
Source: KAM Research and Insights
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This is Food and Drink. This is Wales.
Celebrate the start of Spring with fresh, local ingredients from Wales. From farm to table, Welsh food and drink offers a diverse range of flavours and experiences, perfect for any palate!
Butlers to make Tunworth following Hampshire Cheeses acquisition
By Patrick McGuiganConsolidation of Britain’s artisan cheesemakers continued last month with the surprise news that Hampshire Cheese Company had been bought by Lancashire-based Butlers Farmhouse Cheeses.
Founded by Stacey Hedges in 2005, Hampshire Cheeses is well known for its Camembertstyle Tunworth and sprucewrapped Winslade, which will now join Butlers’ range alongside Blacksticks Blue, Kidderton Ash and Button Mill. Hedges will continue working in the business, as will head cheesemaker Charlotte Spruce, with production remaining in Hampshire.
Butlers is now the largest independent soft cheesemaker
in the UK, according to owner Matthew Hall, who told FFD he was on a mission to drive a “soft cheese renaissance” in Britain.
“The majority of the fixture remains cheddar, but usage occasions for soft and blue cheese are growing,” he said.
“Britain makes more than 700 types of cheese and, when you add in the headache of getting Continental options into the UK [because of post-Brexit import rules], British soft cheese really starts to make sense. We see so much potential for nurturing Tunworth and Winslade.”
He added that sales of both cheeses would continue to focus on independent retailers rather than supermarkets, while more sustainable packaging could also be introduced for the cheeses.
NEWS IN BRIEF
Yorkshire-based Shepherds Purse is now making an organic version of its Yorkshire Blue, using milk from Acorn Organic Dairy. Organic versions of its other cows’ milk cheeses are also in the pipeline.
Action on Salt slammed cheesemakers with research showing that a 30g portion of cheddar contains more salt than a bag of crisps. The campaign group, which lobbies for salt reduction in food, assessed over 600 cheddars.
The FSA says samples taken from the dairy herd at Kirkham’s Lancashire have proven a microbiological link between the company’s cheese and the E.coli 0145 outbreak before Christmas, which led to a recall. Kirkham’s has since been given the ‘all clear’ to start making its raw milk cheese again.
The acquisition follows a turbulent time for Butlers, which suffered a devastating fire at its Longridge maturing and packing site in November. The company concentrated on soft cheese production in the run up to Christmas, erecting a temporary packing site at its dairy in Inglewhite, and is now constructing new facilities at Longridge.
There has been a growing number of acquisitions in artisan cheese in recent years as the UK market evolves. Carron Lodge acquired the Cheddar Gorge Cheese Co, Ribblesdale and Singleton’s in 2022. More recently, Hartington Creamery bought Fowlers Sage Derby, and Two Hoots in Berkshire has ceased production and sold Barkham Blue to Village Maid.
Meanwhile, several artisan cheesemakers have closed down leading to the loss of cheeses such as Berkswell, Laverstoke Mozzarella and Baronet.
Stacey Hedges told FFD the deal would mean better sales and marketing support, as well as potential investment to increase production and sales in the North. “We’re at capacity at Christmas, but not all year round so there is room to grow,” she said. “We felt Butlers was a good fit because they are a family business and fourth generation cheesemakers.”
Clawson Farms has launched seven new waxed cheese truckles which it says aims to “disrupt the growing and increasingly competitive category”. There are seven products in the range, and each cheese has a different brand character, including Captain Bulldog (vintage cheddar), Castaway (Wensleydale with mango and ginger) and Gunpowder (oak smoked cheddar).
THREE WAYS WITH...
…Bibury
This new cheese from Gloucestershirebased King Stone Dairy is made with milk from the same flock that was previously used to make Berkswell. Made in 6kg wheels with animal rennet, it is aged for four to five months until it has a pliable texture and a sweet, nutty flavour. It is pronounced ‘byebury’ and is named after a local village.
Cherry jam
Cheesemaker David Jowett took inspiration from the French Basque country for Bibury, creating a cheese that is similar in style to a young Ossau-Iraty. In the Pyrenées, the condiment of choice for Ossau-Iraty is black cherry jam – an accompaniment that works equally well with the Gloucestershire cheese. The sweet, perfumed preserve picks up on caramel notes in the cheese, while the tart acidity is refreshing against the creaminess.
Dessert wine
Continuing the Basque Country theme, Jurançon white wines are a great accompaniment to Bibury. Pick a sweet style, made with Petit Manseng grapes, which typically have aromas of blossom, toast and honey. There’s balance between the sweetness and a lively acidity, which means the wines are not cloying, so don’t overpower the cheese.
Black olives
There’s a flavour reminiscent of roasted lamb in Bibury, which makes it a perfect foil for black olives, especially the intensely flavoured Beldi variety from Morocco. Dry cured in salt with a shrivelled appearance, they have a remarkable fruity flavour with liquorice and earthy notes, which complement the meaty flavour of the cheese.
CHEESE
New cheese subscription service sets out to promote ‘real’ British cheese
By Patrick McGuiganA new membership organisation has been launched to champion British artisan cheese and encourage the public to support small producers over industrial manufacturers.
The Real Cheese Project has been founded by James and Nicola Grant, owners of No2 Pound Street cheese shop in Wendover, Bucks, along with Sam and Amy Brice of Freshly Ground PR, who have supported events such as the World Cheese Awards and British Cheese Awards.
Consumers will be able to join the Real Cheese Project from September, with members receiving a monthly box, containing a new cheese newspaper and a wedge of cheese, supported by an online tasting session. In addition, 5% of profits will support initiatives that protect, develop and progress real cheese. Research, surveys and PR activities, including collaboration with other cheese bodies, will also be a focus.
CHEESE IN PROFILE with
Gubbeen
What’s the story?
Gubbeen is a semi-soft, washed rind cheese made at Gubbeen Farm, a 250-acre coastal farm in West Cork, Ireland, which has been tended by the Ferguson family for six generations. They started experimenting with cheese in the 1970’s, when Tom Ferguson met and married his wife Giana, an AngloHungarian who grew up making goats cheese on her father’s farm in Spain. It wasn’t until 1989, however, after winning a silver medal for their Gubbeen cheese
“We’re so excited to be launching the Real Cheese Project at a time when farmers, cheesemakers and retailers are facing challenges on every front,” said James Grant. “Britain loves its cheese, but most people aren’t aware of what’s on offer away from the industrially produced staples that they’re used to, and the good that small dairy farms are doing for our planet. We’re here to tell these stories, with lots of incredible cheese to eat along
at the RDS in Dublin, that they realised they had a viable cheesemaking business. Part of the farm’s success is attributed to their mild climate – with the Atlantic Ocean as their Western boundary, they are blessed with early grass and clean air. An organism native to Gubbeen Farm, which flourishes on the rind of their washed rind cheese, was identified by microbiologists in 2001 and named Microbacterium gubbeenense. The farm is an interdependent family business: Tom and Giana’s son Fingal uses the whey from cheesemaking to feed the farm’s pigs for his range of smoked meats and charcuterie. Their daughter Clovisse is a bio-dynamic gardener, supplying several local chefs with produce from the farm’s market garden.
the way.”
Sam Brice added: “With over 1,000 artisan cheeses to choose from in Britain, we’d love to see more consumers seeking out something new from independent cheese shops.”
The Real Cheese Project is calling on cheesemakers and retailers to send stories for potential inclusion in the newspaper, online channels and other opportunities ahead of the public launch in September. therealcheeseproject.co.uk
BEHIND THE COUNTER TIPS OF THE TRADE
Lucy Hunt, cheesemonger, The Cheeseboard, Greenwich, London
Many cheese shops run tastings, but Lucy Hunt has taken the concept to new heights, hosting events for almost 50 people every month in the Richard the First pub.
The Greenwich-based cheesemonger has built a loyal following with nights that have ranged from raclette evenings to Valentine’s tastings. Tickets cost around £30 per head for five cheeses matched with drinks.
“The pub likes them because people stay around for a drink afterwards,” she said. “There’s also a really strong community in Greenwich and lots of independent food shops and restaurants, which helps make them popular.”
Hunt, who started the tastings in 2022, says having a clear theme, such as ‘Greek cheese’ or ‘cheese and beer’ is essential, while guest speakers are also a draw. Varying the themes and advertising on social media, as well as with posters in the pub and the shop, also help shift tickets.
“People sometimes book last minute, but the shop is just round the corner, so I can always run back to get more cheese.” cheese-board.co.uk
How
Starter cultures are added to pasteurised milk from the farm’s herd of predominantly Holstein Friesians, which is then set with animal or vegetarian rennet. The curd is cut, heated and stirred, then some of the whey is removed and replaced with hot water. The curd is filled into moulds on a draining table and left overnight to acidify. The young cheeses are demoulded and brined the next day. During maturation, which lasts
between 10 days and two months, the cheeses are washed in brine and white wine.
Appearance & texture:
The brine washing helps create a sticky orange rind, which becomes darker with age. The paste is smooth, supple and springy. When young, Gubbeen has gentle aromas of mushrooms and
butter which intensify as it matures, developing earthy and nutty notes with a hint of smoke.
Variations: Smoked Gubbeen
Cheesemonger tip: White Burgundy (Chardonnay) picks up on the buttery flavours of the cheese, while the forest fruit notes of red Burgundy (Pinot Noir) emphasise the earthy, forest floor notes.
Chef’s recommendation: Gubbeen is a great melting cheese, and a suitable substitute for any recipe calling for Gouda or Fontina. It is delicious toasted in a sandwich with pickles and cornichons.
Gubbeen is one of the 200 cheeses studied as part of the Academy of Cheese Level Three Certification. For more information on this and all of their courses, head to: academyofcheese.org
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Farmstead cheese with fenugreek, leek, chili, garlic, pepper and lovage.
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Authentic thermized cheese Emmental Type. Creamy, a little bit sweet and nutty taste.
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Offering best in class quality artisanal cheese and fine foods to Independent Retailers.
There are challenges, but organic is so important in food right now
A glimpse into the glorious
While the Goodwood estate is famous for plenty of things, it also has an organic cheesemaking operation
By Patrick McGuiganCHEESEMAKER BRUCE ROWAN is weighing up the seasonal merits of milk as he cuts the curd for a batch of Molecomb Blue.
“Now is not my favourite milk to work with,” he admits as he slices the wobbly mass into hazelnut-sized pieces with a harp-like cutter. “The cows are still inside and have eaten all the best silage, so there’s a lot of fat in the milk and the curd doesn’t drain so well. May is when the milk is at its best. The cows are out at pasture and it has this amazing richness and fluorescent yellow colour.”
Not that he really minds. The milk is so good, the cheese always has something to say. “I like embracing the seasonality,” he says. “I make cheese to showcase the flavours in the milk throughout the year.”
Rowan is head cheesemaker at the Goodwood Estate – an 11,000-acre estate and mixed farm in West Sussex, which has been been fully organic since 2004. Owned by the Duke and Duchess of Richmond and Gordon, who have long held an interest in organic food production, Goodwood has a herd of 180 Dairy Shorthorn cows, which are rotated between pastures during the summer, naturally fertilising the soil in the process, and are fed home-grown hay and silage in the winter.
Rowan, who is originally from Philadelphia and worked at Neal’s Yard Dairy and Quickes before landing at Goodwood 12 years ago, makes three cheeses – a soft, a blue and a cheddar. The bulk of production is sold through the Estate’s restaurants, hotel, farm shop and festivals, including Glorious Goodwood and the Festival of Speed, while local retailers and wholesalers take the rest.
It’s an almost closed system that has helped protect the dairy from some of the dilemmas facing other organic cheesemakers.
“We’ve got a different situation to a lot of cheesemakers, because we’re part of a bigger operation,” he says. “We can’t be wasting money – we need to turn a profit – but we’re not here to support the estate financially.”
Beyond the protective flint walls of Goodwood, other organic cheesemakers have been hit hard by rocketing costs and shoppers cutting back during the cost-of-living crisis. Bath Soft Cheese and Trethowans ditched organic certification last year because of huge hikes in the price of organic winter feed, while Leagram’s and Laverstoke Park have stopped production altogether. To address some of the issues, Somerset producer Feltham’s Farm set up the Organic Cheesemakers Network earlier this year to bring remaining producers together to overcome some of the barriers.
“There are challenges, but organic is so important in food right now,” says Rowan. “It covers so many areas we need to address in agriculture: soil development, animal health, farming practices and sustainability.”
Goodwood’s commitment shows in plans to increase the herd to more than 200 cows so that production of cheddar can be tripled from the current 100kg a week. A new ageing room is also being built and Rowan is working on two new cheeses. At the same time, Goodwood has edged up prices. The cheddar now retails at over £20 a kilo to better reflect its true cost, provenance and the quality of its milk.
“The work for this milk started four years ago with pigs going out in fields and then the land they fertilised being used to grow grass and silage for the cows that provide me with milk,” says Rowan as he starts to drain the whey from the curd. “The cheese is one part of a much bigger story.” goodwood.com
CROSS SECTION
Charlton
Goodwood makes around 11 tonnes of cheese a year across three products: Molecomb soft blue; the mould-ripened Levin Down; and Charlton cheddar. They are all named after places on the Estate and made with pasteurised milk and vegetarian rennet. 1
The 10kg wheels of Charlton are made in two different styles: clothbound and larded; and a fully vegetarian version without cloth or lard. This latter cheese is dipped in hot water to seal the sides before maturation, where it develops a natural rind.
Charlton is aged for around a year and has a delicate flavour. The unclothed cheeses are a little firmer, but not noticeably so, while the flavour of both styles is savoury and buttery with a mellow acidity.
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Introducing Clawson Farms deliciously characterful cheeses. A flavour packed range of seven truckles each made from premium ingredients and represented by a unique personality.
Try them at stand M231 at the Farm Shop and Deli Show, order them from selected wholesalers from 1st May or contact our sales team to find out more - enquiries@clawson.co.uk +44 (0) 1664
822332
Brindisa broadens charcuterie range with beef and pork products
By Tanwen Dawn-HiscoxSpanish food & drink specialist Brindisa is continuing to build its offer of Continental Charcuterie with the addition of new lines.
Both the Coren Chestnut Fed Chorizo Beer Sticks, made with smoky pimentón, and the Coren Chestnut Fed Fuet Beer Sticks are said to be a great pairing for an apéritif –or indeed, beer. Made from pigs fed with Galician chestnuts, the animals’ diet is said to account for the meat’s marbling and distinct flavour, with a slightly sweet nuance. Both have a unit price of £3.15 and cost £54 per case of 18.
An addition to its range of beef charcuterie is Rooftop Smokehouse’s Black Angus Pastrami. The producer brines, marinates and hot smokes the meat over oak for 18 hours. For an extra sweet and juicy result, when serving, the producer recommends
Beet Charcuterie is a kojifermented beetroot-based take on charcuterie, for which Swiss producer Pure Taste is seeking UK stockists.
After undergoing enzymatic fermentation with the Aspergillus Oryzae mold that is koji, beetroot is dried at a low temperature, tenderised and lightly smoked.
The fermented foods producer also makes kojifermented carrot and celeriac, as well as a range of condiments, kimchi, sauerkraut and black garlic. puretaste.ch
either lightly steaming it or running the vacuum pack under warm water, allowing the fat to melt. It is best paired with mustard, pickles, and either sourdough or granary bread.
Trade price per 150g unit is £9.25, £88 per case of 10.
Barcelonabased Rooftop Smokehouse, which smokes everything from meat and fish to vegetables and cheese, earned three stars in Great Taste 2023 for both its smoked butter anchovies and smoked trout products.
Victorious in the World Charcuterie Awards 2023, meanwhile, is Señorio 100% Ibérico De Bellota Cured Organic Chorizo, which is already in Brindisa’s books. Made from the highest grade of Iberian pigs, fed exclusively on acorns, it it has the
characteristic flavours of traditional cured pork – paprika and garlic –and contains neither artificial additives nor preservatives. Unit price to retail, £7.80, available in cases of 20 for £148.
Brindisa also sells the silver and best-in-class charcuterie award-winning Sobrasada Munar de Porc Negre, made in Mallorca with the native pork breed and a blend of sweet paprika, salt and black pepper (unit price £11.85, cases of 15 £168.75); and silver award winning Smoked Beef Cecina IGP. The bresaola is produced in Leòn, where it is oak-smoked then matured for 11 months, giving it its dense texture with seams of rich fat. £25.40 per 3.5kg, 2 units per case. brindisa.com
Canadeer has created new packaging for its Wild Venison Jerky, now printed directly onto the air tight bags. The game-based cured meat, made in Battle, East Sussex, is currently sold in local pubs and independent retailers, including the Swan Inn in Dallington, the Great House in Hawkhurst, the Brewing Brothers in Hastings, and Sarah’s Cellar in Battle. RRP £2.50 per 20g bag (£1.75 to trade) and £4 per 40g bag (£2.75 to trade)
canadeer.co.uk
Heritage sheep charcuterie made on the Isle of Man
Rare native breed charcuterie made from Manx Loaghtan sheep raised on the Isle of Man is another feather (or bale of wool) to Ballacosnahan Farm’s hat.
The ancient sheep are unique to the island, a remnant of when
the Vikings left it 1000 years ago. Their distinctive four horns make them striking to look at, but their meat is what sets them apart: more like venison than mutton, it is slow maturing, naturally dark brown and bears a distinctive gamey flavour.
Ballocosnahan Farm has been making the charcuterie for a year and a half, as an addition to selling wool – and uses the sheep’s meat as well as local pork and beef. Their range includes Manx Loagthan Chorizo and Salami, Pork Chorizo, Bresaola, Coppa, and Air-Dried Ham cured in Gin & Lime and Vodka & Orange. It also sells fresh Manx Loaghtan Garlic & Rosemary sausages.
The charcutier says it has ramped up production to meet demand. It is currently producing 70kg every six weeks, but is working towards producing 100kg every six weeks. It has a herd of 600 sheep, external suppliers, a new butchery unit, a dedicated and growing team and a new website in the making. facebook.com/ ManxLoaghtanProduce
Moving with the Tines
By Tanwen Dawn-HiscoxA farmer, a surgeon, an engineer and a financial controller walk into a bar.
The four founders of Yorkshire’s Nine Tines vodka, and Collaboration Spirits –Richard Smith, Gwen Bromley, Helen and Tim Westgarth –were having a friendly catch-up when Smith put forward his idea for the spirit.
“I had read somewhere a couple of years ago that potato vodkas are some best,” he tells FFD. “So I made a half-joking comment about that and said, ‘you know, we could start making vodka from your potatoes’. I didn’t really expect Tim to respond the way he did, but he said, ‘yeah, okay, I’m always trying to diversify the farm. Why don’t we give it a go?’”
And so, using potatoes grown on the Westgarth’s farm, nine miles from the distillery, they started testing recipes for the vodka, which they now make in small batches, using
500kg of potatoes to make 225 70cl bottles. They distill the liquid 30 times and slowly filter it through charcoal to create a smooth spirit which Smith said can drunk neat, as well as making a good base for cocktails.
“What we do is quite unusual – starting from scratch – but we’ve got access to these wonderful potatoes that are grown on the farm in the most beautiful, fertile soil. We’ve got control of every step of the process, so we can make sure that it’s an absolutely top quality product,” Smith says.
Launched in the autumn of last year, the spirit won two Gold and a Silver medal in The Spirits Business Global Vodka Masters 2023 awards before it was commercially available. It is now sold in a number of bars and restaurants, and a new batch is currently in production as online sales continue apace. Smith says the drink is proving popular with independents, where the producer will continue to focus their efforts.
In a bid to streamline its alcohol gifting range for both retailers and consumers, Staffordshire’s Cottage Delight is relaunching its beer and cider brands under a single name, The Bottle Shop.
The brand will account for the company’s drinks previously sold as The Great British Cellar, Staffordshire Brewery and Pulp Cider.
Just as they buy the potatoes locally, they source bottles and labels nearby as well.
“It all links into the whole story of the product. We’re trying to do everything as local as we can, to minimise the food miles.”
WHAT’S NEW
Following on the popularity of its recently relaunched London Porter, low-and-no alcohol craft beer producer Nirvana Brewery has introduced a limited edition Chocolate Porter. Brewed with whole cocoa nibs, the 0.5% ABV beer is said to combine rich, malted notes with hints of spice, coffee and caramel. RRP is £2.50 per 330ml bottle. The drink is the producer’s first since it successfully raised £600,000 in a crowdfunding campaign launched on February 1st. nirvanabrewery.com
“The bottle looks fantastic on the shelves; a product with provenance and authenticity like ours just really suits the independent retailers and the farm shops where customers are coming in and they’re looking for something different. They want something with a story behind it, where they’ll actually taste the difference.”
The team of four has no plans to diversify the range into flavoured vodkas or gin. The focus is currently to continue meet demand for the flagship product.
“We’re not looking at expanding and doing lots of crazy flavours. We could make gin from it, but the gin market is really saturated, and I actually think the vodka market is more interesting, and as a spirit it’s more versatile.” ninetines.co.uk
Canned RTD brand Niche Cocktails has redesigned its whole range, aiming for a more premium, modern look. The Suffolk-based producer has also introduced two new cocktails: a Strawberry Daiquiri (250ml, 8% ABV) and a Negroni (150ml, 14% ABV). RRP £3.99-£4.25. The additions complete the producer’s nine-can range, which also includes a Matcha Mojito, a Mocha Martini, a Pink Grapefruit Gin Fizz, a Brazilian Lime Margarita, a Raspberry Cosmo, a Blood Orange Old Fashioned and a Manuka Honey Whiskey Sour. nichecocktails.co.uk
Customers will recognise the range of comedy beers – including the ‘Barbecue King’, ‘DIY Disaster Dad’ and ‘Birthday Boy’ bottles – as well as the range of classic and flavoured ciders and the crafted ales. As before, they will be sold in 500ml bottles as well as in gift packs of three. The comedy beers also come in 500ml tankers. Commenting on the move, Cottage Delight marketing director Sarah Williams said: “We’re confident that our trade customers will benefit from the easy-to-select and display range of beer and cider presents, making purchasing alcohol gift solutions extra easy. We have worked with our longstanding brewery partners to ensure the quality of ingredients remains extremely high, whilst creating a contemporary brand that will appeal to existing and new shoppers”.
cottagedelight.co.uk
South Wales mead maker Hive Mind is set to introduce a range of Honey Spirits, kicking off with a Spiced Honey Rum. Wye Valley honey molasses are brewed on site then taken to the Spirit of Wales distillery in nearby in Newport. The producer says the result is a sweet spiced rum with floral notes and subtle spices. RRP £35 per 500ml bottle. The Spirit joins the producer’s range of sparkling mead, Great Taste awarded traditional mead and Honey beers. hivemindmead.com
Inspired by founder Lucinda Barton’s Australian roots, natural RTD cocktail producer too easy beverages is looking for stockists for its flagship Cool Margaritas. Made with white tequila, triple sec, blue agave syrup and 100% lime juice, the cocktail can be shaken on ice or straight in the bottle, and served as is or as a base for a chilli marg, a mango marg, or an anything-you’d-like marg. Each 750ml bottle, which retails at £29.95 (wholesale price £23.95), makes six servings. tooeasybeverages.com
Welsh Drinks Cluster brings wine showcase to London
By Tanwen Dawn-HiscoxThe future of Welsh wine is bright, according to the producers exhibiting at the second Welsh Wine Showcase hosted in London last month.
Attendees represented a broad spectrum of wine styles, grape varieties and production methods, with some whose vines date as far back as the 1970s and others having planted as recently as 2023.
The sector is growing fast: a report published by the FSA in 2021 estimated that there were 38 vineyards in Wales in 2021, predicting that there would be 50 by 2035.
“But I’ve got a list that says there are 52 now, and in twelve months’ time it will probably be the best part of 57, 58,” said Robb Merchant MBE, founder of White Castle Vineyard.
Robb and his wife Nicola Merchant first planted vines in 2009, becoming some of the first to sell red wine made in the UK. Their wines have since earned national and international recognition, including a Gold medal in the Decanter World Wine Awards 2021. Last year, Robb Merchant was awarded an MBE by the King for his services to viticulture, namely for his part in the creation of the Welsh Government’s Drinks Cluster, which in 2022 announced a plan to
increase the sector’s value to £100 million by 2035.
“We’ve seen that as a step forward in terms of some togetherness,” Merchant said.
“The industry in Wales is vibrant, innovative and there is great camaraderie and teamwork,” agreed Richard Morris, fellow Monmouth winemaker, and founder of Ancre Hill Estates.
Having embraced the natural wine movement when they planted their vines in 2006, Ancre Hill’s biodynamic, organic still and sparkling wines have ranked among the best in the world – receiving Decanter, as well as IWSC and Bollicine del Mondo
White Castle Vineyards, Regent 2021, 11.5%
Made in a light Beaujolais style, this wine has a dark berry robe, rich cherry aromas and an excellent balance of tannin and fruit on the palate. The grapes were harvested in October 2021 and fermented in stainless steel vats. A second fermentation in oak barrels gives it subtle secondary notes. Pair with Welsh lamb and venison.
awards, and are now sold across the UK and internationally. Morris is part of a group which is working with the Welsh Government to introduce a PGI scheme giving Natural Wines of Wales an official accredited status.
Partly to thank for the success of Welsh wine generally, Morris told FFD, is the country’s topography, which explains why a healthy mix of varietals and styles of wines can be made.
“Certain areas of Wales such as the Eastern border with England are ideal for growing vines, protected to the West by the Cambrian Mountains and Brecon Beacons," he said.
“Growing vines in such
Whinyard Rocks, Col Rondo 2022, 12%
This 100% Rondo sparkling red wine is deep red verging on purple. This year’s vintage is juicy, warming, full-bodied and fruity. Ripe raspberries and vibrant hedgerow fruits come through on the nose and palate. Made in the Col Fondo Italian ancestral method of refermentation in the bottle without disgorgement. Serve lightly chilled at 13°C. Drink now to two years.
areas on sheltered, South facing sites at above 49.9 degrees latitude is at the limit of a grape variety’s ability to ripen, producing alluring and refreshing wines with crisp acidities and aromatics.”
Not only that, he said, but there is a level of professionalism in the industry that didn't exist 20 years ago, with growing attention to detail on such matters as site, varietal root stock and clonal selection.
It is his belief that “the move to natural wine production will set Wales apart in world terms”.
One such new natural winemaker, enticed out of London to the Radnor Valley in mid Wales is Whinyard Rocks, led by Susan Holtham and James Kinsey-Jones.
The couple first planted vines in 2017, choosing hybrid grape varieties well suited to the climate –mainly Solaris and Rondo. They make a Champagnemethod sparkling wine, a pét’nat, a still red and a sparkling red, which drinks critic Tamlyn Currin said was “one of the most delicious red sparkling wines I’ve ever tasted”.
From 800 vines when they first started, they now have 4,000, and are planting another 1,500 this year, with plans to produce 700 bottles of wine this year, and double that next year.
“We’re really optimistic about the future of Welsh wine,” Holtham told FFD “There’s so much potential here to craft our own story and lead with innovation.”
Ancre Hill, Orange Wine 2020, 9.5%
Predominantly Albariño. 100% whole bunch maceration for between 30 – 50 days.
Fermentation finished in oak and stainless steel for ageing on lees for a minimum of 10 months. Natural malolactic fermentation, no filtration, no fining, no SO2 additions. This is a deep and savoury wine bursting with nectarine & tangerine notes.
Drinks firms reacted to the the budget announcement last month with a mix of relief and frustration. While they welcomed the extension of the freeze on alcohol duty, which was set to be lifted in August 2024 but has been pushed back to February 2025, but criticised the decision to introduce a system which will see levies placed on drinks according to their ABV level, imposing additional costs and bureaucracy on drinks producers.
Hoping to reverse the decline of traditional apple varietals, cidermaker Sandford Orchards has partnered on a project with researchers at Bristol University to identify and preserve varieties found across the UK. Having secured a Defra grant, researchers will collect DNA from Sandford Orchards’ and partner RHS Rosemore’s trees. Once they have identified key varieties that need to be increased, they will propagate new orchards.
The UK Government has failed to deny reports that plans to introduce a deposit return scheme (DRS) will be delayed until 2028, a decade after they were first set out. The scheme would see cash deposits exchanged for used bottles and cans, placing the burden of return on retailers, and a fee per container on producers. The delay is thought to be due to a halt in talks following disagreements with the devolved nations as to whether or not to include glass.
Seasons to be cheerful
It’s time for the independent sector to start thinking about the warmer months. Whether you’re looking for new stock, upselling ideas or general retailing tips, this guide should offer up plenty of inspiration in key categories and get you ready to make hay while the sun shines.
Compiled by Lynda SearbyCoffee works as a meat tenderiser
Sipping ‘Shrubs’ – drinking apple cider vinegar steeped with fruit, botanicals and honey – are a new direction for Olives Et Al Using unpasteurised Dorset-grown apple cider vinegar (with the mother) as their base, the shrubs can be diluted with sparkling water for a grown-up soft drink, or used in marinades and salad dressings. RRP £7.50; trade price £22.50 for 6 x 250ml. olivesetal.co.uk
This Coffee Infused Rapeseed Oil was inspired by coffee’s meat tenderising properties. “Coffee works as a meat tenderiser and enhances the depth of meat flavour,” says Rosie Oretti, founder of Grounds for Good “Instead of getting their hands dirty, consumers can now have it ready in a bottle.”
The company infuses Pembrokeshire rapeseed oil with spent coffee grounds to create a product that also benefits the environment as it diverts coffee grounds from landfill, where they give off harmful methane gas. RRP £6-6.50 for 250ml. Trade price £4.22. groundsforgood.co.uk
Chilli No. 5. is seeking to elevate home cooking with a range of natural and nutritional chilli-based sauces. A chilli oil for drizzling on pizza is the producer’s latest creation. Pizza Pizzazz fuses extra virgin olive oil with chilli, garlic, rosemary and thyme. RRP £12 for 200ml. chilli-no5.com
Popular in Northern Italy, balsamic jelly is starting to catch on in the UK as an accompaniment for cold meats and cheese, according to The Oil Merchant The importer carries the La Vecchia Dispensa brand, which has just launched three flavoured jellies - Cherry, Berry and Rosé - alongside its Classic recipe. RRP £8.55-9.60 for 130g. oilmerchant.co.uk
Wignalls Yallo has launched a four-strong ‘Infusions’ range using its flagship extra virgin cold pressed rapeseed oil as the base. The oils have multiple uses - the Lancashire producer recommends whipping the Lemon & Thyme variety into a mayonnaise, drizzling Habanero Chilli on pizza or pasta, flavouring focaccia with Garlic & Garden Herb and basting lamb and roast potatoes with Cornish Sea Salt & Rosemary. RRP £4. yallo-oil.com
Kentish Oils has launched two four-bottle gift sets that showcase its rapeseed oil blends. One set brings together its Original, Lemon, Chilli and Garlic & Herbs oils, while the other set has Original, Garden Mint, Basil and Rosemary oils. RRP is £18. kentishcondiments.com
Honest Toil has collaborated with two artists – Eniko Eged and Zena Kay – to create a look that is a “fun twist on traditional packaging” for its latest harvest of extra virgin olive oil. One and two litre cans are a new format for the oil, which is made with cold-pressed Koroneikei olives. They currently retail via the DELLI app priced at £13.90 and £25.56 respectively. honest-toil.co.uk
Tenuta Marmorelle has added an infused olive oil range to its tenth anniversary celebratory collection. Based on extra virgin olive oil as opposed to lower grade blends, there are five flavours: Chilli, Lemon, Basil, Garlic and Truffle. Wholesale price is £5.75 per 250ml tin. tenutamarmorelle.com
Co Armagh’s Burren Balsamics has partnered with Northern Irish distillery Bushmills to create an aged balsamic that it says “exemplifies the very best of both our crafts”.
The collaboration celebrates ten years of production. Over this period Burren Balsamics has championed a number of Irish producers by pairing its vinegar with local ingredients.
This latest creation, Balsamic Vinegar of Modena matured in Bushmills Whiskey Barrels, is said to marry the vinegar producer’s artisan craftmanship and the distillery’s rich heritage. Matured for three years in whiskey barrels, this aged balsamic delivers notes of smoke, caramel and oak and can be used in cocktails, marinades and dressings. It launched on St Patrick’s Day with an RRP of £30 for 250ml. burrenbalsamics.com
Whereas most flavoured olive oils are produced by infusion, Azada’s new range – carried by Delicioso in the UK – is made by mixing cold pressed oil from arbequina olives with oil obtained from the named ingredients.
The Catalunyan producer’s Organic Lemon Olive Oil, for example, is made by mixing olive oil with the oil obtained from pressing fresh lemon peel, whilst its Organic Spanish Garlic Olive Oil uses oil pressed from garlic.
This is said to produce oils with significant depth of flavour, more stable than an infused oil, which retains its vitamins, minerals and antioxidants, according to Delicioso. The oil is packaged in recyclable aluminium with 100% biodegradable labels and for each Azada product sold a tree is planted.
There are four flavours - Lemon, Basil, Chilli and Garlicall of which have a trade unit price of £8.75 for 225ml. delicioso.co.uk
The Garlic Farm has launched two garlic infused balsamic vinegars, produced in small batches on the farm by its Wild Island brand. Black Garlic Balsamic Vinegar marries the umami flavours of black garlic with a rich balsamic base, while Smoked Garlic Balsamic Vinegar is an infusion of oak-smoked garlic and rich balsamic flavours. Trade price £8.93 for 250ml; RRP £13.95. thegarlicfarm.co.uk
Amid the current olive oil crisis, the market is crying out for alternative seed and fruit oils. Meeting this demand is Biona, with a new range that covers multiple purposes. It comprises: Organic Sunflower Oil (RRP £5.89 for 750ml), Organic Frying Sunflower Oil (RRP £5.99 for 750ml), Organic Sesame Oil (RRP £7.29 for 500ml), Organic Toasted Sesame Oil (RRP £5.69 for 250ml) and Organic Avocado Oil (RRP £8.89 for 250ml). biona.co.uk
Hillfarm Oils, one of the original British rapeseed oil producers, is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. As well as extra virgin cold pressed rapeseed oil, the family farm produces three varieties of mayonnaise, salad cream and flavoured oils. hillfarmoils.com
Sustainable suppliers for dining in the sunshine
Nicola Woods, Event Manager for Speciality & Fine Food Fair, discusses some sustainable suppliers to elevate your outdoor dining range this season.
As the days grow longer and consumers look ahead to sunnier and warmer months, retailers are inevitably beginning to think about stocking their customers’ picnic hampers and family BBQs.
For both consumers and retailers, the sustainable credentials of food & drink brands are becoming ever more important, with a 2023 survey by IPSOS finding that 58% of Europeans consider climate impact important when buying food and beverages.
The world of speciality and artisan food is particularly concerned with the provenance, quality and sustainability credentials of food & drink, and luckily there are plenty of suppliers offering delicious and environmentally friendly options this year.
For sustainable snacks, we’d recommend Two Farmers, whose hand-cooked crisps come in 100% compostable, plastic-free packets. The brand won Sustainability Pioneer of the Year at the 2023 Speciality & Fine Food Fair Awards for its trailblazing innovations in packaging and progress towards carbon neutrality. Their Woodland Mushroom & Wild Garlic flavour is a personal favourite.
When it comes to condiments, Stokes Sauces are a great alternative to some of the mainstream brands with a wide range of jams, relishes and chutneys in addition to ketchup and mayonnaise. The company is passionate about using the very best ingredients in its sauces and has once again been awarded the Carbon Charter GOLD for its commitment to the environment.
Another one of our award winners, Organic Herd, has a fantastic range of dairy products, from moreish cheddars to delicious caramel and sea salt milk chocolate, and has big ambitions to build a better dairy industry. This producer is instigating a ‘moovement’ towards sustainable farming and ethical practices, with dairy farming and conservation going hand-in-hand.
Finally, for a bit of boozy fun in the sun, we recommend checking out Atlantic Distillery Ltd, an award-winning Cornwall-based organic spirits producer. Many of the botanicals used in the gin and the vodka are grown on a farm in Newquay or wildharvested across Cornwall, using renewable energy and recycled glass bottles.
Here’s to a fantastic summer packed with sustainable speciality food & drink. Cheers!
Speciality & Fine Food Fair takes place on 10th-11th September 2024 at Olympia London. Find out more at specialityandfinefoodfairs. co.uk
OUTDOOR DINING ice cream >>
How we approach our outdoor space
It probably adds 20% to my capacity if I’ve got four seats outside. It makes it look busier, and there are no downsides.
ED BEVIN
The Fleetville Larder St Albans
I put some tables outside because I don’t have many tables inside. I just put one out there in the winter and I’ve got two that I put out in the summer just to make a bit more room. It’s nice, it’s southfacing, so in summer it’s quite a pleasant place to sit and watch the world go by. It probably adds 20% to my capacity if I’ve got four seats outside. It makes it look busier, and there are no downsides.
There’s no table service, so it’s not like I need any extra staff to cope with an outdoor area or to have a different set up. I can see the tables from inside – so you can spot whether they need clearing or if anyone is sitting there waiting to be served. We didn’t have any issues putting them out there – as far as I’m concerned, the little bit where people sit is my land because if you look down the pavement, it’s different paving – so I’m not actually serving people on the roadway. fleetvillelarder.com
Slow-churned gelato
Three Hills Gelato is branching out into the retail channel with the introduction of 125ml and 1-litre pots. The regenerative farm makes Cumbrian gelato using organic milk and cream from its herd of pasturefed Jersey Fresians. Five flavours - Vanilla, Banoffee Pie, Carvetii Coffee, Mango and Lemon Curd - are available in the new format. RRP is £7.50 for a 1 litre pot, £3 for 125ml. threehillsgelato.co.uk
Simply Ice Cream’s latest flavour innovation is the result of a cross-Atlantic collaboration. The Kent ice cream producer has joined forces with Simply Divine Cookies to create a cookie dough ice cream using a recipe that hails from Oregon and swirls ice cream with chunks of cookie dough. RRP is £5.99 for 500ml; trade price £3.65.
simplyicecream.co.uk
The orchard is used by customers to eat their food-to-go in the shade of the apple trees.
ASH SINFIELD Teals Somerset
In terms of out outdoor space at Teals it is very important to us and our customer experience. The field below the store is used for our fitness bootcamp 3 days a week and also as a dog jog. The cider apple orchard is used by customers to eat their food-to-go in the shade of the apple trees,
have a wander or visit the cows over the fence. We believe very strongly in offering our guests beautiful outside spaces to connect to nature and relax when they are with us. The restaurant tables in the courtyard are also popular in the summer months. teals.co.uk
Last month saw South London startup Forest Hills launch its top five selling gelato flavours in 520ml recyclable tubs. Brindisa is the first confirmed stockist of the new range, which represents a considerable step-up for a company that was only founded in 2021 and has largely retailed directly to the public by pedalling two custombuilt gelato bikes around Central London. Vanilla, Pistachio, Blueberry Cheesecake, Peach & Almond and Chocolate Fondant are the flavours that have been selected for launch in tubs. RRPs £7.50-7.90. Trade prices £4.20-4.90. foresthillsgelato.com
Rosy Goat has based its latest goats’ milk ice cream flavour, Coconut Ripple, on a popular chocolate bar. The rural Lancashire venture was launched last year by goat farmers Matt and Nicola Green after discovering that their daughter was lactoseintolerant. RRP £6 per litre tub. rosygoat.co.uk
After two years of testing the waters at markets and festivals, London startup Mochipops is ready to make its retail debut. Vegan gelato balls are encased in a chewy rice dough for a low-calorie treat that is gluten-, dairyand nut-free. With its sharp, fruity flavour, Sour Cherry Mochi Ice Cream is the best seller. Trade price £2 per individually wrapped mochi. RRP £3.25. mochipops.co.uk
Giovanni’s Downtown Gelato says its Melone Gelato, which won two stars in Great Taste in 2023, transports the tastebuds to “sunlit terraces overlooking the azure Mediterranean waters”. The cantaloupe gelato is available to the trade in 2.5, 5 and 6 litre scooping formats, priced at £7.75 per litre. giovannisgelato.co.uk
This month sees Hawkshead Relish make its foray into sweet sauces, with a new range developed to accompany waffles, pancakes, ice cream and more. Raspberry Ripple Ice Cream Sauce, Sticky Toffee Waffle Sauce and Lemon Drizzle Sauce are the inaugural products in the line-up. They are all handmade without artificial preservatives, gluten or nuts.
hawksheadrelish.com
Glastry Farm Ice Cream is cooperating with a group of farmers in Madagascar to obtain natural vanilla bean directly from the source. The Irish ice cream producer has just taken delivery of its first consignment, which it is using in its Vanilla Bean variety. glastryfarm.com
Made with love, loved by many
Meet your burger’s new best friend!
It’s been 5 years since we launched our range of award-winning ketchups and now we’d like to introduce two new flavours to add to the extensive Mrs Darlington’s family of jams, curds, marmalades and chutneys. Using only the best ingredients, whether you choose to drip, drizzle or dollop onto your burgers, we are confident you will love our incredibly moreish Smoky Barbecue Ketchup. Look out for our new fruity Mango, Chilli and Lime ketchup, it gives a lively lift to prawns and chicken.
To find out more please visit our website at mrsdarlingtons.com
OUTDOOR DINING
table sauces, dressings & marinades
Ice to see you
Rob and Heather Copley have gone from buying in local ice cream to making their own gelato on-site at their farm shop. But Farmer Copleys has not stopped there and continues to explore the possibilities in the category.
It won’t surprise anyone familiar with Farmer Copleys that its approach to ice cream has evolved quite dramatically in the last couple of years.
Having started off stocking local ice cream, the West Yorkshire retailer (a recent winner of the FRA’s Large Farm Shop of the Year award) soon decided to turn its hand to making the frozen stuff itself – after the ever-entrepreneurial co-founder Rob Copley acquired some pristine production equipment at a good price.
Together with his wife and co-director Heather, Copley visited the Ice Cream University run by supplier Antonelli’s in Manchester and formed a plan. They decided on gelato – a dessert that is similar to ice cream but has different ratios of cream to milk and is served slightly warmer.
With their all-important base mix recipe established at the ‘university’, the Copleys then installed a counter in the main shop in 2018. And it was almost too successful.
“We did well with the counter,” says Rob. “It was turning over £120,000 annually but on hot days the queues were so long that they were in front of the deli counter.”
This conundrum was one of several factors that spurred the Copleys into their latest diversification: the business’s very own production kitchen.
Opened last May, the Copley’s Kitchen unit showcases the farm’s own jams & preserves and honey production, and is also now the home of gelato-making, spearheaded by in-house flavoursmith Claudio Marelli – who works with milk supplied by nearby Barkhouse Farm.
Although the gelato is still sold in the main shop, the Kitchen is another outlet for it, with the added bonus of customers being able to watch the production process.
As a business proposition, gelato certainly stacks up for Farmer Copleys.
Bristol Beer Factory’s Milk Stout and chipotle chillies are the star ingredients in GingerBeard’s Milk Stout Chipotle BBQ Sauce, which has been treated to a rebrand. The Bristol producer says the smooth, sticky, smoky sauce is best enjoyed with chicken burgers and fries or works as a dip and marinade.
Margins on its by-the-scoop sales can be as much as 200%, while take-away tubs can generate around 60-80%. This, of course, depends on the flavour. Recipes that use unpicked berries from the pick-your-own operation (Rob estimates that some 2 tonnes of strawberries have been utilised this way) obviously give a greater return than flavours that require premium pistachio pastes from Italy.
The great thing about gelato is that the flavour possibilities are plentiful.
“It’s just like sausage-making really,” says Rob. “Once you’ve got your basic recipe, you’re just adding flavours to it.”
There are already around 100 recipes in the Copleys’ book but they only have around 24 at any given time on each counter. These are changing regularly, dictated by the seasons (eg Hot Cross Bun flavour for Easter) and customer requests.
Never one to rest on its laurels, the Farmer Copleys team is now evolving its gelato offer further with the launch of a Dessertery menu in the Kitchen.
“We’ve going with the strapline, ‘Every bite is a delight’,” says Heather Copley, adding that this move to develop a repertoire of gelato-based desserts is tapping into a trend that she and Rob have spotted.
With 80% of their gelato output consumed on the premises, the Copleys clearly attract a spectrum of demographics but they are focused on impressing a younger generation looking for “instant gratification”.
“These customers are all of a mindset that says: ‘We may not be here tomorrow so let’s treat ourselves today’,” says Heather, adding that going out for a sweet treat seems to be a phenomenon that might be replacing destinations like the pub for certain generations.
Among the menu items planned are waffles, sundaes and traditional banana but Heather is particularly excited about the launch of Gela-chos (a sweet version of nachos made with broken up waffle cones).
farmercopleys.co.uk
Trade price £2.80; RRP £4.60. gingerbeardspreserves. co.uk
Boddington’s is extremely proud of its new Chilli Jam, which has just won a Gold Award in Taste of the West 2024. The jam is slow-cooked in small batches on the fourthgeneration family farm in Mevagissey, Cornwall, resulting in a sweet and spicy condiment that can be served with paninis, fishcakes, burgers and cheese. RRP £4.60 for a 227g jar. boddingtons.uk
Pantry stalwart Cottage Delight has blended a rich tomato-based ketchup with smoky, tangy chipotle chilli to create what it says is a balanced barbecue sauce. Use with prawns, chicken or beef or slather on potato wedges. Trade price is £2.88 for a 220ml bottle; RRP £4.29. cottagedelight.co.uk
The Smokey Carter’s latest collab with Thornbridge Brewery is a hot sauce for spicing up tacos, quesadillas, and Mexican marinades. Featuring the brewery’s Green Mountain Hazy IPA, the sauce includes ingredients such as jalapeños, tomatillo, lime and coriander. Another addition is classic wing accompaniment, Original Buffalo Hot Sauce. Both wholesale at £2.65 per unit; RRP £4.25.
thesmokeycarter.com
Chili Maven is introducing consumers to the joys of salsa macha - an oil-based Mexican condiment made from chillis, nuts and seeds to deliver layers of taste. “Think of it as a shortcut to flavour for any dishes,” says founder Alexa Fernandez. Chili Maven’s salsa macha is made in Mexico and comes in two varieties - Spicy & Nutty and Mild & Smoky. RRP £8.95.
chilimaven.com
The development team at Mahi’s has created marinades for two popular BBQ food choices: Chops Marinade for lamb mixes red chillis, coriander and spices, while the Wing Marinade is a cheat for seasoning chicken wings. RRP £2.69. saucymahi.co
OUTDOOR DINING
Cheshire’s Mrs Darlington’s has released two new ketchups in time for BBQ season. Smoky BBQ Ketchup (270g) is a sweet and smoky burger accompaniment that combines red peppers, onions, passata, chipotle and paprika. Mango, Chilli & Lime Ketchup (256g) balances mango, habanero and jalapeño chillies and lime to give a “lively lift” to fish, chicken and shellfish. mrsdarlingtons.com
Female-owned B-Corp Nojo is hoping to disrupt the dressings category with a standout range that traces restaurant trends by using “top-tier” plant-based ingredients. Tahini Dressing, Orange Poke Dressing and Yuzu Ponzu Dressing are three of the challengers. They are all free from gluten, colourings, preservatives and refined sugars. RRP from £4.50 for a 200ml glass bottle. nojolondon.co.uk
Tracklements’ Proper
Ketchup is sporting an improved recipe and a bigger bottle ready for summer. The new, glossier ketchup is made from Mediterranean tomatoes and a blend of spices for a balanced flavour, says the Wiltshire producer. RRP £3.60 for 290g. tracklements.co.uk
Just Oil has purchased a Roboqbo machine to facilitate a move into the mayonnaise space. Following this investment, the Staffordshire producer has unveiled a six-strong range that takes in Classic, Garlic and Truffle mayonnaises, alongside two vegan variants and a Hollandaise. The mayonnaises wholesale at £2.50 for 250g; RRP £3.50. justoil.co.uk
It doesn’t get more local than Hertford’s Tomato Ketchup, which is made in Hertfordshire from local tomatoes and sold to pubs, restaurants, delis and farm shops in the surrounding area. “We launched two years ago with the core value of utilising local produce and hopefully promoting our beautiful historic town in the process,” says founder Gary Batt. hertfordsaucecompany. co.uk
A Little Bit has put Caesar salad back on the menu for those following plant-based diets with the launch of a vegan version of this timeless dressing. Vegan Caesar combines local Kentish cold pressed rapeseed oil with fresh oregano for a herby hit. RRP £3.80. alittlebit.co.uk
Reimagining the BBQ classics
SAUSAGES
Most discussions around what to put on the barbecue tend to revolve around American style low & slow joints. But that doesn’t mean you should discount the British classics. National Craft Butcher’s chief exec Eleanor O’Brien explains why these staples don’t have to be bland, boring or burnt.
Gone are the days of Lincolnshire or pork & leek being the most outlandish option in the butchery counter. Sausages have a lot of potential to offer flavour and the trend is very much that any kind of fusion will work. Caribbean jerk seasoning is a good option for heat-seeking customers but minced pork and/or chicken also lends itself very well to Thai ingredients, such as chilli, lemongrass and coconut. Classics from other countries, like South African Boerewors, continue to gain popularity.
The humble banger can also be good for meeting dietary requirements during barbecue season. The rise and rise of gluten-free sausages is something we’ve seen across our membership. More and more sausages are now being made with gluten-free rusk and seasoning. The chances are most people have had them from counters and they may not even realise. If that’s the case in your shop, it’s definitely worth flagging this up to customers as your butchery department might not be signposting them enough.
CHICKEN
Lots of people forego chicken on the barbecue, mainly because they’re not confident about cooking it correctly. How often do you hear about drumsticks that are nearly burnt on the outside but still pink in the middle?
Spatchcock chickens could tempt people back, though. They cook evenly and they’re cost-effective, because just one will feed a family.
Bone-in thighs are another good option because they can withstand a bit more of the physical heat and are a good vessel for any kind of seasoning or sauce.
Chicken is also a category where retailers can add value. Gyros-style
kebabs are proving increasingly popular. They’re an upgrade on your average chunks of chicken and peppers on a skewer and if butchers offer them preprepared and marinaded, they should sell very well.
We’ve also seen plenty of butchers upselling probe thermometers alongside prepared chicken. Not only is this a nice extra, it might also allay customers’ concerns about serving chicken at their barbecues – and lead to more sales.
BURGERS
Gourmet burgers are very on-trend at the moment and they’re good to serve to the kind of customers that want to look like BBQ pros but don’t actually have the time or skill. The term ‘gourmet’ actually gives butchers quite a lot of scope for creativity. They can be whatever you want them to be. Increasingly, you’ll find burgers with cheese blended into them for a melting middle or others made with rump steak (which actually could prove a useful way of tackling any wastage).
If you get your proposition right, proper gourmet burgers can sell for £4 each, which isn’t as steep as it sounds given that some restaurants will now charge over £20 for a burger and chips. Given the cost-of-living crisis, it seems that even people who with disposable income are choosing to cut back on meals out and this kind of product is exactly what they will treat themselves with.
Farm shops, in particular, are ideally placed to make up BBQ burger boxes (with buns, lettuce, tomatoes, condiments etc) from their ranges and upsell them to customers looking for an easy-butrestaurant-quality way to entertain.
OUTDOOR DINING
Irish-Mexican couple Andrew Brady and Andrea Bustos have founded Garnacha to show that salsa can be much more than a nacho dip. The duo has used traditional Mexican recipes to create two versatile salsas that can be used as dips, condiments or cooking sauces. Habanero Salsa combines the sweetness of roasted red peppers with heat from fresh habaneros, while Chipotle Salsa has a more robust and smoky character from blending tomatoes and three types of chilli (chipotle, guajillo, and pasilla chillies). The salsas have an RRP of £4.25 for 250g. They are currently only sold in Ireland, in 12 SuperValu stores and several independent outlets. garnacha.ie
Chimmy’s chimichurri sauces have been developed by Michelin-starred chef Diego Cardoso and his wife, Sofia. The Argentinian couple were keen to replicate the classic sauce of their homeland - a rich, russet coloured condiment made with dried herbs and spices, red pepper, tomato and paprika - and share it with a British audience. There are three sauces in the range: Classic Chimichurri, Smoky BBQ and Spicy. All are said to make dips, condiments, marinades and cooking sauces which embolden meat, compliment fish and add zing to vegetables and salads.
To appeal to European tastes, Chimmy’s uses less oil than is usual for chimichurri, so the sauces contain less fat and fewer calories. They are also free from preservatives, additives, flavourings or colourings. They are allergen-free and are vegan friendly.
RRP £5.45 for 265g. chimmys.com
table sauces, dressings & marinades
Building on the popularity of his All Things Butter
TikTok channel, chef Thomas Straker has joined forces with Toby Hopkinson to launch an organic butter brand with the same name. Their chef-led approach prioritises flavours and butter as an ingredient. There are four variants in the inaugural line-up: Salted, Unsalted, Garlic & Herb and Chilli. allthingsbutter.co.uk
From Halifax, West Yorkshire, Yoyo Laos Sauce is working to put Lao food on the map. Its latest coup is a traditional Lao dipping sauce known as Vientiane Jeow Som, which translates as “sour sauce”. Yoyo uses Soyzë’s vegan fish sauce to retain the umami taste while making the sauce accessible to everyone. RRP £6.50 for 100ml. yoyolaossauce.co.uk
Traditional Ihaw Ihaw Filipino BBQ sauce from RoniB’s Kitchen is sporting new livery, designed to stand out on shop shelves. Made from pineapple and spices with a peppery bite, the sauce is made for dipping or marinading. RRP £5.45; trade price £3.15 for 150ml. ronibkitchen.co.uk
For those who like it hot
BEYOND THE BURN
Jay
Webley of The Clifton Chilli Club outlines the key trends to consider in the ever-growing subcategory of hot sauces
Like all categories, chilli sauces do seem to have trends. Not so long ago, many UK consumers were obsessed with finding the hottest possible sauces. Flavour was almost irrelevant – sweating profusely and powering through pain was the end game.
These days, we’ve all grown up (mostly) and have found our favourites; be it a style, producer or chilli type.
SRIRACHA
In recent times, Sriracha sauce has become commonplace in many supermarkets and delis. The sweet, red jalapeño and garlic-laden sauce has inspired many producers to make their own versions. Some have opted to use hotter peppers, whereas others have replaced the cane sugar with honey or agave. It’s also inspired people to experiment with fermentation, a trend that started a couple of years ago which has continued to remain popular. However, Sriracha is far from the only player in the trend-setting game.
SOUTH KOREA
It is less than half the size of the UK but you could argue that the culinary influence of this country is far bigger when it comes to the world of chilli products. Gochugaru (a smoky, fruity-sweet chilli with a pleasant kick) has come to our attention. As has Gochujang: a Korean condiment with a sweet-hot-salty flavour made from the ripe Gochugaru chillies, fermented soybeans, glutinous rice and salt. This intense paste is becoming a key ingredient for new sauces in the UK and parts of Europe. With its umami flavours and manageable heat, more and more products are appearing with this flavour bomb included.
This isn’t the only sauce influence stemming from South Korea, as their take on BBQ sauce (known as Bulgogi) also provides that umami hit too.
HOT HONEY
Honey has been a staple storecupboard product in many people’s households for hundreds of years. However, hot honey is a fairly new trend and quickly growing in popularity. Chilli is a fruit (well, technically a berry) and pairs well with other sweet ingredients. Adding it to honey seems like an obvious option in hindsight, but it’s only in the last year or two have we seen a huge increase in the number of infused honeys in the market. Some producers are even using the honey are a fermentation base. We’ve experienced Scotch Bonnet honey, Aleppo honey, fermented Sriracha honey and more. It’s a versatile product for both sweet and savoury dishes. It would be of little surprise to see more hot honeys entering the market soon.
info@cliftonchilliclub.com
OUTDOOR DINING
A newcomer on the British rapeseed oil scene, Cumbrian producer Eden Yard has added a mayonnaise to its portfolio. Eden Yard grows rapeseed on its family farm and since 2021 has been cold pressing the seed. The oil wholesales at £3.50 for 500ml (RRP £5.50) and the new mayonnaise is priced at £2.40 for 175g (RRP £3.75). edenyard.co.uk
Dr Will’s condiments contain only natural ingredients and are sweetened with dates, tomatoes or apples. The brand’s three new sidekicks are no exception. Buffalo Hot Sauce is a vegan version the popular hot sauce; Sriracha Mayo is a plant-based mayo with habanero chillies; and Avo Sriracha Hot Sauce is made with red jalapeño chillies and avocado. RRP £3.50-4. dr-wills.com
Sauce Shop is pitching its new Ranch Mayo as the perfect pizza crust or chicken wing dipper. This blend of garlic mayo and herby buttermilk ranch dressing is made with free-range egg yolks, garlic, onion, fresh lemon juice and herbs. RRP £3.49. sauceshop.co
Since starting Plot34achillis in 2019, ‘chilli-head’ Steve Gibbs has been experimenting with homegrown varieties such as Ghost, Scorpion, Carolina Reapers, Hurtberrys, Chocolate Apocalypse and Burmese Nagas. One of his most popular creations is his Bajan Pepper Sauce, which packs in fresh Scotch Bonnet chillis, onions, garlic and pineapple, RRP £7 for 150ml. plot34achillis.com
Big Jim’s Kitchen in Edinburgh has relaunched its core range of Scottish whisky barrel-aged hot sauces with new names and labels that better fit the market. Barrel Aged Bonnets, Habanero Honey Mustard and Irn Bru & Whisky all wholesale at £4.05 per 150g bottle (RRP £6.95), The producer donates 10% of its profits to mental health charities. bigjimskitchen.com
Irish TV cook and author Fiona Uyema has added a range of sauces to her Fused collection of kitchen staples. The four recipes – Sweet Chilli Sauce, Korean Style BBQ Sauce, Katsu Curry Ketchup and Japanese Style Hot Sauce – are honey sweetened and made from natural ingredients. RRP £3.55. fusedbyfionauyema.com
Time for a spring clean?
Visual merchandising expert and WBC commercial director Eve Reid offers guidance on how to get your premises ready for warmer months
LET’S TAKE THIS OUTSIDE
When the weather warms up, the outside becomes an extension of your inside. You need to think about what “extra’’ things can be used to grab people’s attention, while also selling.
Even if you’re a deli with only a tiny apron of pavement, an A-frame can be a great way of grabbing passers-by off the street. Tying balloons to the sign will also increase your shop’s presence in someone’s peripheral vision.
If you can put out tables & chairs or a small colourful display of stock, do it. If not, maximise the impact of your shop window with relevant seasonal displays of stock and vibrant signage.
For larger sites like farm shops, sometimes the space can be double what you would have in colder, wetter months. I’ve seen everything from food-to-go huts and pop-up shops, through to produce displays and tractors parked out the front.
For a smaller high street shop, your outdoor efforts should be all about trying to get people in. With a farm shop, think experiential as well as transactional too –your aim must be to get people inside.
Whatever you do, make sure there’s enough space for customers to see the entrance clearly and for them to actually get into the shop.
Choose your staff wisely. The welcoming committee need to be able to ‘work an audience’, know how to shepherd people and help them navigate their way into the shop. If you have any food-to-go or displays of stock, make sure customers still have to go inside the main shop to pay for and/or collect their items.
MAKING AN ENTRANCE
However you’ve achieved it, once the customer is making their way towards the doorway, they need to feel welcome. That means a spacious doorway; I always use a double buggy as a rule of thumb for optimum clearance. As long as the weather is nice (fingers crossed), then leave that door open. There are plenty of scientific studies that proves that open doors help to attract people in.
This entry point is your first ‘hotspot’ (see next point). Make sure you’ve got a display that hits them as soon as they’re inside. Preferably something that signals the start of their journey – like picnic hampers and accessories and, of course, shopping baskets.
LAY IT ALL OUT FOR THEM
You need to work out your key hotspots. In the world of visual merchandising, a retail “hotspot” refers to an area of high traffic. Some experts will define hotspots only through foot traffic, but I personally believe that visual traffic is just as pertinent to your store’s success.
The best way of establishing where these all are is to walk through the store yourself – as though you were a customer. Too many retailers are guilty of entering the premises through the back door, then sitting behind the counter. When you open up in the morning, try going in through the front and walk in the customer’s shoes. See what areas catch your eye, establish how someone might flow through the shop and pinpoint where your customers will be drawn to.
Usually a hotspot is defined by where your most popular sellers are and physical boundaries created by display units.
Then make sure that the seasonal displays and the items you really want to sell are in the hotspot areas to give them maximum exposure.
CHANGE WITH THE SEASONS… AND THE CALENDAR
When you’ve worked out your layout, freshen it all up. Rotate stock, focusing on those warmer weather items – food & drink that lends itself to entertaining, outdoor eating and picnicking. Display different ‘hero’ products in windows and in your customers’ line of vision.
Moving with the seasons is a bare minimum but be more dynamic by working with themes provided by one of the many Food & Drink Calendars out there.
World Gin Day is on 10th June and English Wine Week is 18th-26th June, running alongside National Picnic Week. wbc.co.uk
ArtisanLink offers a carefully crafted regional sample presentation and delivery service to the established farm shops and delis, direct to the buyers. This personal and friendly approach to presenting and sharing artisan products generates high-quality leads, enabling producers to confidently explore and seize new opportunities. Edward has provided an excellent service delivering our samples to some wonderful farm shops in areas we had not reached before. It’s a win-win situation that has created extra sales and exposure and the follow up information
NEW DELICIOUSLY REGENERATIVE, AWARDWINNING CHEESES
The farmer backed cheese brand daring to do things differently!
Win 1 of 5 cheesy hampers! Just come by our stand at the Farm Shop & Deli Show.
CELEBRATE WITH US AS WE LAUNCH OUR RED LEICESTER AND SMOKED CHEDDAR VIA OUR NATIONAL DISTRIBUTION PARTNERS!
Mature, Vintage, Red Leicester* & Smoked Cheddar*
*available from 22/4/24
#JOINTHEREGENREVOLUTION firstmilk.co.uk goldenhooves.co.uk
Adventurous coffee, hand-roasted in the West Yorkshire Pennines
Wholesale coffee and equipment supply, with curated POS support
Award-winning, beautifully presented retail coffees
Barista training school and café consultancy
We’re a Certified B-Corp, and we give 2% of our turnover to community projects
PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
The Garlic Farm
B Corp Certification for The Garlic Farm
Social and environmental responsibility is critical in any sector and especially important in fine food retail. Delis and farm shops thrive by differentiating themselves and by doing business in the best way for the planet and its people.
BUSINESSES THAT CERTIFY as B Corp are 100% committed to making a positive impact. Rather than greenwashing or virtue-signalling, these companies go through a rigorous certification process and have to declare all their financial and procedural workings for full transparency. There are key areas of measurement and scrutiny and to finally qualify for the B Corp stamp, they must legally commit to doing good in their company’s Articles of Association.
It’s hard to be empiric about the retail performance of B Corp certified food & drink brands but there are examples of increased commercial resilience and anecdotal feedback from shop floors. Retailers with good customer care are attuned to what customers care about. Brands that perform in the sector connect with customers by clarifying values and back this up with formal accreditations. These brands are often advocates of the additional work incurred because they register the positive impacts to the triple bottom line: people, planet, and profit.
“The organic farming movement and certification process is a good example of this,” says Barnes Edwards, director of The Garlic Farm. “B Corp certification is comparable in that it is very purpose-driven at its core, it is a movement as well as an audit and the outcomes it aims for are similarly circular and
regenerative. Both are about constantly being better, in every way.”
The Garlic Farm began its B Corp journey five years ago. Cotswold Fayre, its principal distributor, was instrumental in communicating the advantages of following the formal, investigative process of an impact assessment. The snowball effect of Cotswold Fayre’s supplier events were particularly helpful in connecting the farm with other like-minded businesses. Measuring the impact of a heavily diversified operation like The Garlic Farm is hard. Hence the length of time to achieve certification. What is clear, is that the farm team is fully engaged with the actions – both big and small – that can help reduce waste, improve wellbeing, increase efficiencies, and connect with communities… to name a few.
There are five key ‘impact-areas’ of measurement and scrutiny: Environment, Customers, Workers, Community and Governance. The phrase ‘impact-areas’ might sound like the places on a car that could be hit in a crash, but the phrase is a definition of what is impacted by what a company does or doesn’t do. The standard way of doing business is only answer to shareholders, the B Corp way is to consider more when making decisions. It’s about seeing where improvement is needed and also where a company is getting things right. It’s a game changer.
Barnes Edwards adds: “It’s humbling to know that our efforts on the farm to improve impact will never be finished. We’re only 5 years into a multi-generational process of measuring and adjusting what we do.”
With only around 3% of UK food & drink brands certified as B Corp, there is both a long way to go before this becomes mainstream and a big opportunity for adding value to the sector, in every sense of the word. A robust certification that verifies impact is a helpful antidote to misleading claims and marketing waffle.
When asked what this means for the future, Edwards had the following response: “We believe there will be better future for the planet and its people if businesses focus on being forces for good. B-Corp is a badge of honour we are product to wear, and the commitment to using our business in the best way possible is in our bones now.
“We wanted to pass the ‘impact’ test when we first started this process, now we want to pass on the impact message. It’s a good one that can do good things.”
www.thegarlicfarm.co.uk
01983 865 378
wholesale@thegarlicfarm.co.uk
Our full range is also available with Cotswold Fayre
The UK’s specialist retailers are coming together again April 29th-1st May as Farm Shop & Deli Show returns to the NEC in Birmingham as part of the 2024 UK Food & Drink Shows
Six reasons to visit… ...Farm Shop & Deli Show 2024
Five Shows Under One Roof
Farm Shop & Deli Show joins Food & Drink Expo, The Restaurant Show, National Convenience Show and The Forecourt Show to bring together the grocery, specialist retail, wholesale, foodservice and hospitality sectors in one location.
Awards Galore
A number of favourites return to the event in 2024, including the muchanticipated Farm Shop & Deli Show Product and Retailers Awards. The winners of the latter will be revealed live on stage on Monday 29th April. Britain’s Best Loaf competition will be back once more on Tuesday 30th April alongside a new event, Britain’s Best Cake.
Register for your free pass today: farmshop-and-deli-show-2024.reg.buzz/ 1 4 2 5 3 6
Big Name Exhibitors
Expect to see some significant names on show, with exhibitors including West Country cheesemakers Godminster (Stand S181), Silent Pool Distillery (Stand J199), Diverse Fine Food (Stand K209), Belvoir Farm Drinks (Stand T238) and Charles Butler Finest Comestibles (Stand F230).
Experts in their fields
The Farm Shop & Deli Stage will play host to some of the most inspirational players in the industry, offering their expert take on the sector’s most pressing issues. Heavyweights include John Gill (Booths’ head of procurement & marketing) Planet Organic’s founder Renée Elliott, and Julia Kirby-Smith (Executive Director at Better Food Traders).
Innovative Products
Discover the latest trending products and essential services from across the sector. Take advantage of a 24/7 online shop with a new website from South Coast Systems (Stand L248), try Cornish Sunset Gin from Norton Barton Artisan Food Village (Stand K210) or explore Eco Green Living’s eco POS unit (Stand S268).
Business Advice
Whether it’s the impact of the costof-living crisis or getting listed with wholesalers, sessions on the stage are designed to tackle problems that the retail sector faces. The ever-popular Dragons’ Pantry will also be returning.
INGREDIENTS
CHEDDAR & SMOKED PANCETTA SCONES WITH WILD GARLIC PESTO FROM THE DELI KITCHEN
Makes approximately 8 scones, multiply as required
Ingredients:
For the scones
240g self-raising flour
50g cold butter, cut into 1cm cubes
½ tsp fine table salt
1 tsp caster sugar
½ tsp baking powder
100g Cheddar, grated
100g smoked pancetta, cut into fine lardons
20g finely chopped parsley
50ml water
100ml buttermilk
1 large egg yolk
For the wild garlic pesto
25g Parmeggiano Reggiano, grated
25g lightly toasted pine nuts
25ml extra virgin olive oil
25ml rapeseed oil
65g wild garlic leaf, blanched for 3 minutes in boiling water and refreshed in ice cold water
5g raw wild garlic leaf
Sea salt flakes to taste
Method:
• Preheat the oven to 210°C | 190°C (fan) | Gas mark 6.
• Put a small frying pan on a medium burner and fry the pancetta until golden.
• Mix the flour, butter, sugar, salt and baking powder in a bowl, rubbing to a coarse crumb with your hands. Add the Cheddar, pancetta and parsley and mix through. Add the water and
buttermilk and knead lightly until a dough forms. Wrap in baking paper and rest in the fridge for at least 30 minutes. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough to a rectangle of about 20cm by 10cm, about 3cm thick. Carefully transfer onto a board and cut the pastry in half width-ways and then into equilateral triangles. Transfer onto a lined baking tray, then brush each triangle with the egg yolk and bake for approximately 15 minutes until golden brown. Cool on a wire rack and serve immediately or store in an airtight container.
• To make the pesto, drain the blanched wild garlic leaf and pat dry on kitchen paper. Put all the ingredients into a blender and blitz to a coarse paste. Serve in a bowl with the scones or in individual pots.
Meridian Sea is now selling its Great Taste awardwinning Cantabrian Anchovy fillets in 1kg catering tubs to meet the demand from catering companies and deli foodservice. In this format, the MSC blue label, ready to eat fillets are said to offer cost-effectiveness without compromising standards of quality, sustainability or provenance. Supplied in cases of 4 x 1kg cases.
www.meridiansea.com
Food retail and food-to-go equipment provider Fri-Jado has introduced a rotisserie oven kitted out with a heated self-service display cabinet. The ‘Space Saver’ rotisserie, it says, allows operators to expand menus beyond traditional options, as it can also be used for alternative roasted meats such as pork joints, as well as vegetarian dishes and even desserts. frijado.com
Australia’s Geraldon Fishermen’s co-operative says its range of Brolos raw and prepacked rock lobsters are selected for their quality and vitality, according to strict quotas. The MSCcertified organisation catches the wild crustaceans at 50 landing spots along a 1,000km coast in Western Australia. They are then transferred live to seawater tanks before being processed and transported. brolos.com.au
• Chilled & Frozen Groupage Distribution
• European Groupage Distribution
• Retail, Food Service and Manufacturing Sectors
• Multi-Temperature Warehousing
• Storage & Order Picking
• Confectionery Storage
• Blast Freezing & Tempering
• Customs Agency
• Customs Warehousing
FieldGoods Inc.
Chefs Elliot and Sam Day
saw the free-range, highend frozen ready meal sector as largely untapped, so they set about creating their own.
Interview by Tanwen Dawn-HiscoxWhat’s the story behind FieldGoods and how did it come about?
We came up with the concept in 2020, but at that time we were running our previous business – Babek Brothers. That started as a supper club in 2016, making kebabs and cocktails, and we ended up with two sites in London, a catering business and a festival business. It was all going really well, then Covid came. So we went home to the farm we grew up on in Devon. It was in that time that we started talking about FieldGoods.
When we started, we knew we could make the product and we were looking at why people weren’t championing amazing suppliers and free-range ingredients or pioneering environmental credentials. And that’s not to take away from some of the existing businesses who’ve championed so much of what a good ready meal should be. They’ve made it normal for people to assume that you can have a dinner party with a ready meal.
on his bike, and we barely spent anything on marketing. It was just word of mouth and flyering, to get initial feedback on the product. Then, we launched national delivery in December 2021. And that’s a marker point for us, because that’s when we really knew what our product was and what we wanted to do with it.
But they’re not free-range. And that’s great because that’s a really nice point of difference for us. We wanted our brand to be focused on working with amazing suppliers. And that’s the same across everything: meat, dairy, fish, and veg.
Was that relying on the suppliers that you were working with as chefs?
We did keep up quite a few of our relationships, yes, but we actually spent a lot of time making new ones. We genuinely, always aim to improve. We’ve recently moved back to our original chicken supplier. We had to move away from them because they closed down briefly but they got back in touch, we went back through a whole tasting process and their product was just the best. So we went back to them.
How did you get the business up and running?
We launched in the Spring of 2021 with a very early product. Sam delivered everything
How has your range evolved over time? When we launched our initial range, we thought it needed to be a mix of customer expectations, like a lasagna, a fish pie – those bankers that everyone likes. And then the next one was looking at convenience. What are the meals that everyone loves but can never be
bothered to make? A beef bourguignon, for example, not a soul can be bothered to make that ever. A chilli. It lent itself to these slightly slower cooked dishes. And then the last section was thinking, ‘what do we love’? That brought in the lamb tagine, the cauliflower butter masala, the Thai green curry.
Every one of the dishes we originally launched with is still there, we’ve only ever added to the range. Our subsequent menu expansion has been a mix of what we love to eat and what else has come falling out the tree when we’ve shaken it within that criteria. We also do a lot of customer questionnaires, and something that came back in our last round of development was tarragon chicken. We hadn’t even put it on there. But we did it, and it’s one of our best sellers. And now we’re developing a new range, for launch this summer.
What do you aspire to in terms of scale and growth?
I’m really happy that we are now half directto-consumer and half retail. That really lends itself to our food because we try and communicate as much as we can about our ethos and what the business is about. The near-term future for us is continuing down the independent route. I love having personal relationships with retailers who care so much about their shop their produce and can convey how much we care about what we do.
We want to keep working with who we work with and stay true to what our ethos is, which is to have a positive impact on the food cycle.
I don’t know what’s beyond that. We’ll see. We want to continue growing and to become a major player in the game. But we want to keep working with who we work with and stay true to what our ethos is.
If we could look back and see that people have really enjoyed our food, that they have had really good dinner parties eating it, and we’ve helped improve this element of the food cycle, that would genuinely be, for my brother and I, the pinnacle. Because at that level, we’d have achieved like economic success, social success and environmental success, which is where we want to get to. fieldgoods.co.uk
for recipes & ideas scan...
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Produced in pink salt shed lychgate barns, 48 main street, xarks, COTSXOLDS,
hello@pinksaltshed.com @pinksaltshed
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Produced in the UK by pink salt shed lychgate barns, 48 main street, long compton, xarks, COTSXOLDS, cv36 5jj
composale for recipes & ideas scan... jute compostable, packaging...
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Produced in pink salt shed lychgate barns, 48 main street, xarks, COTSXOLDS,
social media - @pinksaltshed email - kate@pinksaltshed.com
Produced in pink salt shed lychgate barns, 48 main street, xarks, COTSXOLDS,
for recipes ideas compostable, packaging... @pinksaltshed kate@pinksaltshed.com
Produced in pink salt shed lychgate barns, 48 main street, xarks, COTSXOLDS,
for recipes & ideas scan...
jute compostable, packaging...
social media - @pinksaltshed email - kate@pinksaltshed.com
Produced in pink salt shed lychgate barns, 48 main street, xarks, COTSXOLDS, jute composale
recipes & scan... compostable, packaging...
for recipes & ideas scan...
jute compostable, packaging...
social media - @pinksaltshed email - kate@pinksaltshed.com
Produced in pink salt shed lychgate barns, 48 main street, xarks, COTSXOLDS, jute composale
social media - @pinksaltshed email - kate@pinksaltshed.com
social media - @pinksaltshed email - kate@pinksaltshed.com
Produced in pink salt shed lychgate barns, 48 main street, xarks, COTSXOLDS,
composale for recipes & ideas scan...
jute compostable, packaging...
social media - @pinksaltshed email - kate@pinksaltshed.com
Produced in pink salt shed lychgate barns, 48 main street, xarks, COTSXOLDS,
Rustle Chips seeks stockists for ‘restaurant-quality’ crisps
By Tanwen Dawn-HiscoxNewcomer to the gourmet snack game Rustle Chips has its sights set on fine food retail to make a name for its range of flavoured crisps.
The brand was thought up by Julian Dyer, founder of dessert company Pots & Co and of Phil Howard’s pasta brand turned restaurant, Notto.
The crisps are made in small batches in Croatia using Opal and Lady Claire potatoes, with 100% sunflower oil. They are fried at a low temperature, which is said to preserve flavour, colour and texture.
The Ugly Truffle and The Sweet Pepper variants were recently joined by a third flavour, The Green Chilli, and all are available in 28g, 50g, and 150g bags.
The Ugly Truffle is made with powdered
wild foraged mushrooms from Istria in Croatia; the Sweet Pepper is flavoured with Hungarian paprika, while the Green Chilli is made with jalapeño peppers.
When he created Rustle Chips, Dyer told FFD, he set out to deliver a restaurant-quality product in a retail setting.
“I wanted to make something that had the crunch of the kettle crisp, but also tasted really special - to keep the originality of the potato and the flavouring, sold under a British brand.”
As well as gaining traction for its striking packaging, Dyer said the brand had got new stockists - Ocado, Comesto and independent retailers such as Panzer’s, Dartington Estate and Runwell Farm Shop, as well as listings in Sweden, Iceland and Mexico - thanks to tastings.
Yorkshire’s Indian restaurant group and producer Aagrah Foods has given its entire range a new look. The new, colourful packaging, with the emblematic elephant at its centre, was designed, “to catch the eye and intrigue the palate”, according to the producer. The range includes bite-sized poppadoms, chutneys, spice mixes, cooking sauces and a Pilau Rice Mix, and was created to give customers a restaurant-like experience at home.
aagrahfoods.com
WHAT’S NEW
Organic specialist Biona has introduced six new products to start the year: 130g jars of Garlic Paste, Ginger Paste and Garlic & Chilli Paste (RRP £3.19; £2.29 for trade); as well as three Grade A Canadian Maple Syrup SKUs. The range consists of 330ml bottles of both Pure Amber and Pure Dark syrup (RRP £6.79, £5.09 for trade) and 1L bottles of Pure Amber syrup (RRP £23.29; £17.46 for trade). biona.co.uk
“I don’t expect retailers to take existing lines down, but just try them. Everyone who tries them agrees that they are special.”
The multiples, however, are off the cards.
“I did supermarkets with Pots & Co, but if someone wants to pay me below what these are worth, I’m just not interested. I want them to be sold in places that respect good food.”
A fourth, Himalayan Salt flavour will follow later this year, with limited edition flavours in the pipeline. rustlesnacks.com
WHAT’S TRENDING
1 Flat croissants
The humble croissant may stand up as the perfect pastry, yet people never tire of messing with it. We had the ‘cronut’ from New York’s Dominique Ansel, then last year’s craze of subjecting them
After polling its followers on social media, Mallow & Marsh has reintroduced a previously-popular treat, Coconut Mallow. Originally launched in 2017, the bars (RRP £1.35 per 35g) and sharing pouch bites (RRP £2.65 per 100g) are coated in a thin layer of Belgian milk chocolate. The recipe was redeveloped ahead of the launch, and the packaging was given a fresh design. mallowandmarsh.com
Customers increasingly seek out organic food and drink, according to Rude Health, who has added another oat milk to its barista range. Organic Oat Barista is made with four ingredients – water, 14% oats, sunflower oil and sea salt –and is said to create a perfect creamy foam, with the right level of sweetness to balance with coffee. RRP, £2.40 per litre. rudehealth.com
By Nick Bainesto a waffle iron to make the ‘croffle.’ There’s been a recent spate of making them into a perfect cube before adorning them with glazes and toppings –which Dorset’s M’s Bakery has done to wide acclaim. In California, one bakery has turned to flattening croissants completely. Alexander’s Patisserie in Cupertino has caused quite a stir by taking the croissant in a direction that resembles a classic palmier.
2 DIY Wine aeration
Decanting and letting wine breathe is a time-honoured process, to smooth out the flavours in a wine. But it can take time, and today’s wine drinkers don’t want to wait. This explains why a process
called ‘hyper decanting’ has been trending on TikTok, with videos of wine is being run through blenders and aerated with milk frothers, in a wild attempt to bring wine to its lip-smacking best.
3 Dinner parties
The dinner party is back, baby. According to Eater, The New York Times and a slew of food magazines, we can expect to be invited to more sit down dinners with friends this year. The old school mainstay that is fondue is also on the rise. Among a raft of articles from Easter on how to host the perfect dinner party, items include ‘it’s ok to serve dinner you didn’t cook yourself’, prompting a new generation of hosts to buy fancy, pre-made meals.
WHAT’S NEW
Blood Orange Negroni and Espresso Martini are among the two new RTD cocktails sold by World of Zing in 94% recyclable paper packaging. The range of 15 cocktails, averages between 15 and 18% ABV, RRP £22. worldofzing.com
Bonilla a la Vista Patatas Fritas are now available to independent retailers across the UK after the producer penned a deal with importer and distributor Victus Emporium. The Spanish crisps, which are fried in extra virgin olive oil, are available in 50g, 150g, 275g and 500g bags. bonillacrispsuk.co.uk
My magic ingredient
Netherton Foundry, Prospector
Pan Netherton Foundry pans are simple, elegant, and durable. They’re crafted by hand by a family business based 15 miles away from our deli in Shropshire, and over the years we have forged a great relationship with Maddy, Sue and Neil.
IAN EVANS, owner, Broad BeanThe pans are not only long-lasting but really versatile; I have a domed lid for mine, and I use it to cook anything from pizzas to casseroles. It takes pride of place on my hob. My kitchen wouldn’t feel the same without it.
they all have fallen short of what I was cooking at some point or another. These days, I choose not to risk it. So if you want my advice, buy a pan crafted by people who love your food more than you do, such as the kind folk at Netherton Foundry. netherton-foundry.co.uk
Truffle-based products specialist La Rustichella is seeking fine food retailers in the UK to stock its products. The Italian producer’s culinary ingredients include Black Truffle Butter, Black Truffle Olive Oil, as well as Black Truffle Pâté and White Truffle Pâté. larustichellatruffles.com
This is a heavy duty object. It has a protective coating, or ‘seasoning’, which you can touch up whenever you need to by applying a thin layer of flaxseed oil and baking it on in the oven. This is a deeply satisfying ritual which makes the pan look brand new.
It may seem a little strange to have a pan as my magic ingredient, but the way I see it, without the right equipment, ingredients are irrelevant. I have bought a lot of pans in my life, some expensive and some less so, but
The Yorkshire Pasta Company NPD aimed at refill stations and gifting
By Tanwen Dawn-HiscoxThe Yorkshire Pasta Company is set on growing its list of stockists after introducing new formats, gift ranges and bundles.
Since Kathryn Bumby started the company in 2019, making a range of five bronze-cut, slowdried pasta, in Yorkshire – a fusilli, penne rigate, mezze maniche rigate, tortiglioni and conchigle rigate – it has earned a place on the shelves at Harrods, Selfridges and Harvey Nichols, supplies Michelin-starred chef Tommy Banks’ restaurants
and makeaway boxes, and has increased its number of UK stockists to more than 500.
Most recently, the producer has introduced 5kg Bulk Bags, aimed at retailers with refill stations, well as hospitality and catering. The bags retail at £38.25 (£29.50 to trade), and, like the 500g formats, are sold in recyclable packaging.
In a nod to the social media trend for ‘penne a la vodka’, the producer has also introduced a recipe kit, which includes a 250ml bottle of Yorkshire Rapeseed Oil; a 50ml bottle of Sloemotion Botanical Vodka; Yorkshire Sea Salt; a tube of MUTTI Double Concentrate Tomato Pureé as well as shallots, garlic cloves and dried chilli flakes from Yorkshire suppliers. (RRP £25, £20 to trade).
Hampers and bundles for Christmas, Valentine’s and Mother’s Day complete the range, also drawing on the company’s list of local suppliers – such as Guppy’s Chocolates of York and the Cosy Cottage Soap Company.
“I’m so proud to have started the first British Pasta brand and to have done it so sustainably,” founder Kathryn Bumby said.
“I cannot wait to make new connections and drive The Yorkshire Pasta Company further forwards.”
yorkshirepasta.co.uk
It takes pride of place on my hob. My kitchen wouldn’t feel the same without it.
Organic food supplier Windmill Organics has made its version of the trendy pasta shape, orzo, by introducing a new pulsebased range under its Profusion brand. The 250g bags of Red Lentil and Chickpea Orzo retail for £3.09. The company says the pasta is as versatile as its wheat-based counterpart, so can be used in soups, salads and as in classic pasta dishes, but is entirely based on lentils or chickpeas, so it is gluten free and a rich source of plantbased protein. profusionorganic.co.uk
• Meet 100s of innovative and exciting suppliers
• Sample and source the latest offerings
• Learn the latest trends and insights
Find out more and register free: farmshopanddelishow.co.uk
This is the story of how Bell’s, a pick-your-own farm set up in the 1960s, grew to become a thriving retail operation – striving to feed the people of Worcestershire with fresh, affordable produce.
By Tanwen Dawn-HiscoxAlways ringing the changes
FARM SHOPS COME in all shapes and sizes these days. Sometimes you encounter glamorous spaces – more similar to luxury department stores than the barns they’re built in – others are more homespun. One might target the big-ticket destination shoppers while the latter has its sights set on the weekly shop.
Watching customers roll into the car park at Bell’s Farm Shop in Stourport-on-Severn, armed with shopping carts and freezer bags, you get the feeling that this isn’t their first visits – and they haven’t just come for an item or two.
This kind of customer is what fuels the
operation, explains owner Vicki Colwill.
“I like to say that we are working for foodies and families. We’re not here to take the mickey, we genuinely want people to have good quality, fresh food and make it a reasonable price.”
What the Bell family started as a Pick Your Own farm some six decades ago (selling it to fellow farmers, Vicki’s grandparents, the Colwills, 20 years later) is still true to its roots. Although it doesn’t generate the most income, Colwill sees the fruit, veg and flowers available picking to pick year-round as the most important thing they do.
“I want to spend the next 20 years telling
people, ‘Look, this is how your fruit and veg is grown, come and find it, come and taste it and come and see the difference’.”
To reinforce this message, plenty of this produce is on show in the shop. When FFD visits in March, there’s purple sprouting broccoli, King cabbages, rhubarb, and the most spring-like of staples, daffodils.
“And normally it would be all our apples, but our crop failed this year”, says Colwill. “That’s farming, you know. Swings and roundabouts.”
There’s also apple juice and cider made by Vicki’s father Richard Colwill on the other family farm in Worcester, and there’s
Location: Bell’s Farm Shop & Pick Your Own, Chadwick Bank, Stourport-onSevern DY13 9SA
Number of staff: 11 full time, 11 part-time and 5 at the height of PYO season
Retail floor space: 150 sq m, plus 40 acres of Pick Your Own
Annual turnover: £1.1 million
Average basket spend: £18
Number of customers (annual): 65,000
honey from both sites.
Almost everything else comes from local producers, many off the back of long-term relationships.
“Bennett’s [ice cream] we’ve dealt with for 50 years. Drew’s Tomatoes, we’ve known the family through generations. I went to school with one of the owners at Goodman’s Geese, where we get our Christmas poultry.”
Generally meat is one of the Bell’s biggest earners, with its The Little Black Pig butchery adhering to the same simple formula of high quality product at an affordable price – to drive footfall and customer loyalty.
“It’s hard because we’re not a place that likes to increase prices,” says farm shop manager Lewis Babakhan. “Even though our product is a very premium one, we choose not to, just because we’re counting on lots of customers to come, which they do.”
The shop draws on tried-and-tested methods. It buys meat direct from suppliers, everything is processed on site, from sausages – of which they sell 200kg on an average week – to burgers and bacon.
As well as visiting the counter staffed by nine butchers, customers can grab pre-packed items, and benefit from 3 for £10 deals, set-price hampers, and recently introduced ‘take-and-bake’ dishes, like kebabs and chilli beef stir-fries.
“So you can come here and get a pack of chicken fillets, a pack of pork steaks and some homemade sausages which we use outdoor-reared pork from the Wye Valley, and it’s £10,” Babakhan says.
“If you buy that and a veg box, you’re away,” adds Colwill, “and you’ve only spent 20 quid.”
The offer at Bell’s clearly appeals to a broad spectrum of customers, so much so that it has seen the retail business grow significantly year-on-year since the pandemic.
And there’s more to come. The physical space was recently expanded by a third, adding more space for fresh and dry goods, a new deli counter filled with local pies, Scotch eggs and cured meats, and a cheese counter. Plans to prepare more food in-house and build on the café offering are also part of a longer-term strategy.
“We’re constantly moving, we’re never stood still,” Babakhan says. “Vicki and the family are very good because they’re traditional farmers, but they’re always adaptable to change.
“This is a farm shop to watch, it’s definitely going to be one of the biggest and the best around here, just produce wise.”
And, for the Colwills, the vision for Bell’s goes beyond the retail operation.
“It’s important that we’re part of the community as well. I get the Beavers [junior scouts] in, we walk the 5-7-year-olds around and show them the fruit and veg, they make scarecrows, things like that.
“We have a weekly craft group that just has a good time together, we do craft fairs. We do a fortnight of ‘Pumpkin Madness’, as well as the normal pick-your-own. We like
MUST-STOCKS
Bell’s fresh produce
Veg boxes
Bell’s Cider and Apple Juice
Little Black Pig sausages, meat hampers, burgers, ’take-and-bakes’
Bell’s Honey
Local Pork Pies
Nav’s Samosas
Mawley Milk
Croome Cuisine Cheese
Two Farmers Crisps
Local potatoes
DELI OF THE MONTH
hosting things people can come and do, even if that’s just sitting in the picnic area. I don’t mind if they just come, the kids run around for a bit and then go home after school.
“It’s very much about trying to welcome people to farming and the countryside, in some way, shape or form.”
The future of Bell’s is planned for, too: Vicki, who only recently joined the business after working in IT systems and software management for the first part of her career, will have to spend another four decades in the business to match her father, who is in his eighties and still active on the farm.
“I’m not going anywhere,” she says. That said, “there aren’t a lot of new young butchers and new young horticulturalists around, so we’re having to train them up ourselves”, and already they have taken on apprentices on the farm and in the butchery.
For instance, butchery manager Ollie “started as a Saturday boy, he was 17. He’s worked his way all the way up and got his butchery’s apprenticeship last year and now he’s in charge.”
Babakhan adds: “Ollie has basically built his own career, and he’s been very crucial to the business.”
As many busy retailers will recognise, telling people about what they do is one thing they are still working on. Bell’s has been shortlisted for FRA, NFU, Muddy Stiletto Awards and the Farm Shop & Deli Retailer Awards, and also has popular social media feeds packed with promotional videos, but it still needs a new website to complement them. The current website was only set up in the pandemic, to make it possible for customers to click-and collect their shopping.
By their own admission, the home-grown vegetables and the locally-reared, highwelfare meats lack signage to explain their full stories to customers.
The shop looks rustic, it is kitted out with stacked apple crates and handmade vegetable racks (made by Vicki’s father and a local carpenter, who wanders in to pick up some provisions while we’re there). The café is in a canopy adjacent to the farm shop.
“We don’t do attractive well. That’s our downside,” Colwill says. But even with the cautiously guarded plans for the near future, regulars can be sure that there are none to upheave everything.
“I always say we’re never going to be a ‘gift shop’ farm shop. We’re just going to be real food for real people. That’s the vibe we’re giving off, isn’t it?” bellsfarm.co.uk
It’s very much about trying to welcome people to farming and the countryside, in some way, shape or form.
For generations now, our family has been making a real commitment to taste and excellence, hoping to help you add a bit of magic to every mealtime. www.jameswhelanbutchers.com | info@jameswhelanbutchers.com
You have questions our Code of Practice has the answers
Can I mature my hard cheeses on wooden shelves?
Is
Can I display and store some hard cheeses and cured meats at ambient?
How can I prove that I have not exceeded a given use-by date when the outer packaging has been discarded?
Can I cut cheese and meats with the same equipment?
Can I display olives at ambient temperature?
Do I need to know about Natasha’s Law?
Do I have to mature or ripen cheese under refrigerated conditions?
Developed by the Guild of Fine Food and food experts at Cornwall Council, the Deli Retailing Code of Practice is split into three main sections – Food Safety Essentials, Good Hygiene Practices and Trading Standards – the Code is intended as a one-stop reference guide for deli teams, providing the guidance to ensure that both compliance and best practice standards can be achieved in all areas of retail.
The Deli Retailing Code of Practice is available in PDF format and can be requested by emailing support@gff.co.uk. The Code is free to Guild of Fine Food members and can be purchased by non-members for £250+VAT.
Nana Lily’s
goes back four generations all the way to my Great Grandmother on the West Coast of Ireland. This fruit filled traditional plum pudding is flavoured with warm Christmas spices and liberally laced with Kilbeggan Irish whiskey, with the recipe remaining unchanged over the years. In addition we have a range of sponge puddings and condiments, using traditional recipes with a modern twist available all year around. www.nanalilys.co.uk
Expert View
SHARP AT SHARP RELATIONS ON USING INSTAGRAM TO INCREASE YOUR BRAND AWARENESS
In my last column, I concluded that “where Tik Tok leads, Instagram follows” but this doesn’t necessarily spell the end for Instagram. If we explore the premise that TikTok is another route to market, a sales tool if you like, then Instagram would take up the brand awareness crown, perfect for driving discovery.
By discovery, I mean the moment when a brand arrives into your awareness for the first time New potential customers discovering the whereabouts of your shop, discovering new products on your shelves, discovering events or tastings you’re hosting.
It’s driving these moments where Instagram gives you more control over the audience you want to reach. On a purely geographical basis, using the ‘add location’ function on your Instagram posts allows you to target content towards local people. Tagging the location of your shop site is effective for engaging with customers who already know you. But it’s by mixing up the locations added to your posts which helps to drive discovery, i.e. tagging your local area, local town or city, even the whole county will hook a wider demographic. Then, you must tailor your content accordingly.
Hashtags serve a greater purpose on Instagram than they do on TikTok, they’re like signposts.
MODEL RETAILING
How can I help?
Using tags like #localproduce #homedelivery #breakfasthampers, all increase discoverability of your content, meaning potential customers can find you when searching for specific products or services.
Drive discoverability further by using Reels, which offer more screen “real estate” than static feed posts and tend to be shared more widely across the platform.
Then there’s the million-pound question, how do you measure “discovery”? How do you know if it’s working and leading to sales?
Unlike a billboard in a street where there’s no way of tracking “eyes on”, it’s different with social media and PR, discovery is much easier to track. You analyse metrics like new followers, numbers of likes and comments (known as engagement), impressions (“eyes on”), traffic sources coming into your website and, of course, shoppers! You can look at the qualitative ‘soft’ metrics like, how did people interact with your content – did they tag in friends or make positive comments?
But discovery is only the start of the story, shoppers don’t buy the first time they discover a new place or brand, it takes more interaction.
One thing is for sure: if there’s no discovery or awareness, then there’s no sales. And for this, Instagram is still the queen.
Using the ‘add location’ function on your Instagram posts allows you to target content
Storage, handling and display of ambient products
Expert View Setting up shop for good hygiene
Delicatessen products must be displayed in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Where the manufacturer states the product does not require refrigerated storage, then it can be stored at normal room temperature. Where this is not indicated, it may still be possible to store and display some products out of temperature control depending on the composition of the product.
In the absence of storage and display conditions being provided by the producer, if a deli operator wishes to store and display some products at ambient then they need to be aware of what makes a product microbiologically safe, namely low water activity and/or low pH. If displayed in the open air, the foods must be protected from the risk of contamination from members of the public and other physical and chemical contamination. The cut faces should be regularly cut off or scraped to prevent the growth of spoilage moulds. rIf producer storage instructions are not provided, then if you wish to display or store a product at ambient then you will need written confirmation from the producer.
Fine Food’s Assured Code of Practice for Deli Retailing
The guide is available in PDF format (free for Guild Members, £250+VAT for non-members). To request a copy of the Code,
This advice is an excerpt from the Guild of Fine Food’s Assured Code of Practice for Deli Retailing. The guide is available in PDF format (free for Guild Members, £250+VAT for nonmembers). To request a copy of the Code, email support@gff.co.uk
SOLVING EVERYDAY SHOPKEEPING DILEMMAS. IN MINIATURE.
Well, I’m trying to avoid UPFs at the moment. This lurid ketchup is ok, right?
How can I help?
How can I help?
It’s all about local for me. Are these bananas sourced within 30 miles?
I want to support you, but why can’t you sell me this pineapple for under £1, like the supermarkets do?
FFD says: It’s often the case that customers think they know what they want but then lack the context to back up their requests. The reality is that this will never change, which means it’s on the retailer to guide them. So, not only do you have to be an accountant, cleaner, buyer and retail assistant, it’s increasingly on you to be educators too. On the upside, if you are clued up on the burning issues in food & drink, you should impress them enough with your knowledge to secure an all-important sale.