FFD August 2021 by Guild of Fine Food

August 2021 Volume 22 Issue 7 gff.co.uk

Are we ok? Exploring mental health in independent retail

ALSO INSIDE Full guide to Speciality & Fine Food Fair 2021

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

CONTENTS 5 NEWS

It’s worth pointing out that, even before COVID, working in customerfacing businesses has always carried an unhealthy dose of stress.

10 SHOP TALK 19 CHEESEWIRE

By Michael Lane, editor

28 MENTAL HEALTH IN INDEPENDENT RETAIL 38 SPECIALITY & FINE FOOD FAIR PREVIEW 69 FOODSERVICE 75 SHELF TALK 84 DELI OF THE MONTH 91 GUILD TALK

How often do people ask you if you’re ok? And how often do you respond by telling them you’re fine? Mental health is something that people are increasingly open about these days. I can’t remember hearing the term that much 10 years ago but it is very much common parlance now. I’d been mulling over the idea of looking at independent retail through this prism for quite a while. Previously, I have put it off on the basis that it might look like we were trying to shoehorn a general topic into our very specific space. But do you know what? I’m glad we’ve finally done it. The last 18 months in particular has tested people’s wellbeing to the limit in all walks of life but for those working in retail it has been especially trying. It’s worth pointing out that,

even before COVID, working in customer-facing businesses has always carried an unhealthy dose of stress. Rather than just acknowledge that food retail is a tough environment, assistant editor Tom Dale has taken the approach of seeking advice and opinion on what employers can do to make things better (his feature starts on page 28). It’s important that shop owners improve the workplace for their staff and themselves because without people there isn’t really a business at all. Just read our Deli of the Month (Brace of Butchers, on page 84) to find out what a decent working culture can achieve. The so-called “pingdemic” (can COVID please stop generating puns and jargon now?) that has begun to cause chaos during the production cycle of this magazine

proves this point further (see page 5). And if one thing is certain, it is yet more uncertainty to test those working in our sector. Aside from the aforementioned app noise, there is also the mask debate now raging (see page 12) and the haulier crisis is causing supply chain issues to go with the staff shortages (see page 6). I suppose the last thing to say about mental health, is that I’ve noticed personally what a lift you can get from just getting out a bit more. As work trips begin to increase and movement becomes ever more plausible (despite the pingdemic), it’s worth starting to look at your diary. There’s a pretty significant trade show that’s coming up soon (you may see the odd mention of it in this magazine) that could do wonders for your mind and your soul.

August 2021 Volume 22 Issue 7 gff.co.uk

Are you going to the Fair?

Are we ok? Exploring mental health in independent retail

Cover illustration by Mark Windsor

ALSO INSIDE Full guide to Speciality & Fine Food Fair 2021

If you are attending Speciality & Fine Food Fair at Olympia on 6th or 7th September, why not visit us on the Guild of Fine Food stand (2931). The editorial team will be there on both days and we’re keen to speak to as many people as possible. After all, talking via phone, email and Zoom will never be as good as a face-to-face conversation. Events like the fair are always great for generating ideas and catching up with industry colleagues, but you could always just come along and browse the array of Great Taste winners on display. Hope to see you there.

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Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

Bring quality, value and exclusive cheeses to your counter this Christmas with Clemency Hall. All while championing expertly sourced artisan producers. Email us to receive our Christmas 2021 List: christmas@rowcliffe.co.uk

www.rowcliffe.co.uk Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

NEWS

Small retailers could be forced into summer closures due to Test and Trace quarantine By Greg Pitcher

Fine food retailers are living in fear of having to close their doors this summer due to the impact of COVID-19 isolation rules that remain in place despite the phased re-opening of the economy. Analysis by think tank the Adam Smith Institute suggested almost two million people could be asked to stay at home – via the NHS Test and Trace app – every week as restrictions are eased and the virus’s Delta variant continues to spread rapidly. The British Independent Retailers Association said some of its members had already been forced to shut due to staff isolations, which the body said were “a real problem”. Chief executive Andrew Goodacre said small food retailers with low levels of space and staff faced a double whammy of high isolation numbers and a lack of replacement workers. Even beyond 16th August,

Retailers are fearing being asked to stay home this summer

when forced contact-based isolation is dropped for the fully vaccinated and under 18s in England, many shop workers will fall between these groups and remain at risk of stay-at-home orders. “We need an urgent solution,” said Goodacre. “We are asking for financial support for businesses forced to close. I do not believe it is any different from a lockdown

Al-fresco dining licence extension a “real boost to business” Pavement dining and alfresco pints are set to be a fixture for another year as the government extended the relaxation of pavement licenses last month. As part of the Government’s high streets strategy, the news will be welcomed by the urban deli-restaurants and cafés that took advantage of the loosening of regulations over the past year. Trade body UK Hospitality lauded the announcement, and its spokesperson said the extension would be a “real boost for business”. “The extension - and potential permanent retention - of streamlined pavement licensing is a real boost for pubs, cafes and restaurants, who will

Al-fresco dining at Delilah Fine Foods in central Nottingham

be delighted that they can continue to make use of outdoor areas, helping them to navigate their way more speedily back to profitability,” the spokesperson added. The government simplified the pavement license application process last year in a bid to boost trade during COVID.

when simply following Government instructions regarding self-isolation results in a closure.” Clare Jackson, director of Suffolk-based Slate Cheese, said she had cancelled an appointment to attend an event in London recently, not for fear of contracting the virus but to minimise her risk of a damaging isolation request if she came into close contact with

someone with COVID-19. “We are walking on eggshells,” she said. “In a small business in these busy months, we cannot operate if we lose a member of staff. We have a policy of no holiday during July or August because we are at full stretch. “If a full-time member of staff had to isolate we’d most likely have to close as we wouldn’t be able to cope with demand. It is a real issue for small businesses with limited teams.” Mark Kacary, managing director at The Norfolk Deli, said it would be “impossible” for him or his wife and business partner to run the shop on their own if one of the pair was told to isolate. “We are a small, familyrun business,” he said. “To close the shop for 10 days would cause the usual problems associated with having to waste a lot of food. “I do not see any compensation being offered for this.”

Self-isolating and the law Jo Joyce, health & safety specialist at law firm Taylor Wessing, sets out the legal position on COVID isolation. Q: When do food shop workers have to self-isolate? “The basic legal position is that you have to self-isolate if you get a positive test result or you are told to by a designated professional such as someone from a GP surgery or NHS Test and Trace. “Being pinged on the app is not a legal requirement, it is a recommendation. But it gets more complicated as employers must ensure they are running a safe workspace and keeping customers safe.” Q: What are the legal risks if someone works after an isolation alert on the NHS app? “My advice is don’t force anyone who has been pinged to come to work as you are setting yourself up for a constructive dismissal claim. If someone is happy to come in then you might require them to have a negative PCR test first but that is still high risk. “It is possible that a staff member or customer could attempt to bring a legal claim and, whether it succeeds or not, having to defend it and deal with the publicity could be damaging.” Q: What support do I get if my staff are isolating? “You don’t have to pay an employee who is isolating and isn’t ill. Those employees on low incomes can apply for a £500 support payment from the government. There is no direct payment from central government for businesses forced to close because staff are isolating.”

WHAT THEY ARE SAYING ABOUT... COVID-19 ISOLATION RULES MARK KACARY DIRECTOR, THE NORFOLK DELI

“My wife and I have both been double jabbed so, surely, if people can come back from amber-list countries without going into quarantine, then it would be total nonsense to ask us to isolate for contact reasons. Maybe asking us to produce a test every two days for a week or fortnight would be a better alternative.” CLARE JACKSON DIRECTOR, SLATE CHEESE

“It feels like there is a discrepancy between the lifting of social restrictions and the easing of isolation requirements. I do understand that it gives more time for more people to get double vaccinated, which I am in favour of as the best long-term solution. But it puts us in a very difficult situation over the next month.” GERARD BURDEN ENVIRONMENTAL HEALTH SPECIALIST, NAVITAS SAFETY

“There is a real risk that fatigue in the sector kicks in. Staff may well evaluate the risk to themselves as low, especially as many are young, and not follow guidance or stop using the Test and Trace app. Once guidance is seen as devalued, other controls will also come under pressure. This further partial rollback is yet another pressure on retailers.” Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

NEWS

CYBER CRIME

Fine food distribution ‘nightmare’ as lorry driver shortage causes logistics disruption By Greg Pitcher

Fine food distributors have described a “nightmare” getting stock to customers as a logistics body estimated the national shortage of lorry drivers had hit 100,000. The Road Haulage Association wrote to the prime minister in June saying the driver shortage was at “crisis point” after workers returned to their countries of origin during COVID and were prevented from returning by strict post-Brexit immigration rules. An ageing workforce, a huge drop in the number of HGV driver tests being carried out and changes to self-employment laws were also blamed for the shortfalls. Berkshire-based importer and wholesaler Tenuta Marmorelle said deliveries from Italy were taking up to a week longer than usual, with further delays fulfilling orders from UK retailers. Director Nick Carlucci

The Road Haulage Association claim the shortage is at “crisis point”

said the haulier staffing crisis, aligned with extra hurdles from paperwork and routing rules, was causing the company to rethink its operating model. “At first it was a shock as everyone said Brexit wouldn’t change anything,” he said. “The biggest problem is shipping to our customers at farm shops and delis in the UK; they are getting frustrated. Delays were affecting our business. So we are fulfilling orders in our van within a 100-mile radius.” Tenuta Marmorelle may look to buy more vans for

Waitrose boosts presence at Shell petrol station sites Waitrose will start selling its food and drink products at more than 60 new Shell petrol station locations across the UK in a major expansion. The supermarket is set to grow its partnership with the oil giant to boost the number of sites selling its stock from 57 to 125 by 2025. The expansion will bring Waitrose products to an additional 68 garages over the next four years. The retailer has also confirmed plans to install up to 800 Shell electric vehicle charging points at up to 100 of its shops, with these also due to be in place by 2025. Waitrose executive director, James Bailey, said: “This is an important partnership for Waitrose and means we can offer 6

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

even greater convenience to more of our customers. “We’re also delighted to bring our customers 800 new charging points for electric vehicles, including new rapid charging capabilities, as the UK moves more and more towards a sustainable transport network.” The news comes as the supermarket’s owner The John Lewis Partnership announced that it is to cut 1,000 in-store jobs as it simplifies store management structures. The group said the planned restructuring is part of a bid to save £300million per year after reporting its first full-year loss in March and ditching its annual staff bonus for the first time in 67 years. waitrose.com

the busy pre-Christmas period, Carlucci added. The Road Haulage Association urged the government to introduce a temporary work visa for lorry drivers and to add the profession to the Home Office’s official Shortage Occupation List. The association insisted a relaxation of legal limits on drivers’ hours, announced by ministers in July, was “counter-productive” as it would make the job even less appealing. “Loading more hours on to drivers that are already exhausted is not

IN BRIEF The latest review from veteran retailerFine BillFoods Walter Smith Grimsey has claimed has announced the independent retailers closure of three stores are facing a “mountain in the Midlands. The of debt”chain after taking on butcher revealed COVID supportthat loans over Christmas its during the pandemic Denby Village, West and has called on Bromwich and Coventry Government to write off shops would stop trading, some ofitthe debt. leaving with 11 outlets – vanishinghighstreet. many of which are within garden centres. com

the answer,” said chief executive Richard Burnett. But Federation of Wholesale Distributors chief executive James Bielby said the government move to allow 11-hour shifts and 99-hour fortnights was “just what food distributors needed” and could mean 15 per cent more deliveries in a day. Buckinghamshire-based fine food distributor RH Amar said its team of longserving drivers and a wellestablished relationship with its distribution partner had given it a “robust logistics chain” and removed its reliance on pallet delivery networks. “There have been some instances where our European-based suppliers have been unable to get product to port, but RH Amar has a culture of going that extra mile,” added operations manager Mody Rupkus. “In mid-June, one of our colleagues drove to Kühne in Germany to pick up gherkins to ensure consistent supply.”

Tracklements has British food and drink hired Ben exports toHallam the EU for fell by the role £2bn in of thecommercial first quarter manager, which includes of 2021, with sales of identifying newdropping market dairy products opportunities. Hallam by 90%, according joins the & Wiltshire-based to Food Drink condiment specialist after Federation analysis of 11 years at dairy firm Yeo HMRC data. Valley. fdf.org.uk Health2021 food retailer Cibus – the trade Planetfocused Organic show onhas Italian moved into the food & drink – ishot setfood to be delivery marketnorthern and held in Parma, teamed up31st withAugust high-end Italy from service Supper, which to 3rd September. Over will courier selection 2,000 food acompanies of to-go and are set toitems exhibit atsushi the from two Central London event. stores. cibus.it

King Stone Dairy takes the crown at cheese awards David Jowett of King Stone Dairy came home from the Artisan Cheese Awards with a raft of awards for his Morbierstyle Ashcombe, less than a year after he started selling the cheese. Beating off competition from over 600 British and Irish cheeses, Jowett was awarded the Supreme Champion title, along with best English Cheese, Best New Cheese, Best Farmhouse Cheese and Best Washed Rind Cheese. King Stone also picked up Gold, Silver and Bronze medals for Rollright, Evenlode and Moreton. Created during the first national lockdown last year in a bid to support the cheesemaker’s milk supplier, Ashcombe has

David Jowett with his haul of awards

a distinctive ash layer running through its centre. The Supreme Champion victory may seem like history repeated for 30-year-old Jowett, who also picked up the gong at the awards in 2016 for Rollright, just

eight months after he launched the cheese. Held at the annual Melton Mowbray Artisan Cheese Fair, the 2020 awards were postponed due to COVID restrictions, but this year’s fair was marred by low turnout and a £10,000 loss.

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Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

NEWS

Fears over impact of proposed sugar and salt tax on small food & drink producers By Tom Dale

Sugar and salt should be taxed and the UK’s food network aligned with its climate targets, an independent review of the nation’s food systems has recommended. Part two of the Government-commissioned National Food Strategy plans to transform food in England “from farm to fork”, following the review, led by Henry Dimbleby, cofounder of fast-food chain Leon and the Sustainable Restaurant Association. The report recommends that a tax of £3/kg on sugar and £6/kg on salt sold for use in food manufacturing and foodservice should be introduced, citing current over-consumption of the two ingredients in the UK. It stated that the tax would apply to all sugar and ingredients used for sweetening, including syrups, and would “encourage manufacturers

Glastonbury for chefs Dubbed Glastonbury for chefs, the Universal Cookery & Food Festival will be hosted at Mudwalls Farm, Warwickshire on 14th September 2021. The show – designed by chefs for chefs – is the only hospitality event in the UK to be hosted outside and attracts visitors from across the supply chain. Multiple stages with a wide range of demonstrations, interviews and panel debates will keep attendees entertained throughout the day, as well as a farmer’s market showcasing products and suppliers, foraging sessions discovering edible wild species in the locality, and complimentary food & drink throughout the day. cookeryandfoodfestival. co.uk

A tax on sugar and salt has been proposed in the report

to reformulate products”. Dimbleby claimed that the tax would not, in most cases, lead to price increases. However, chief scientific officer for the Food & Drink Foundation, Kate Halliwell said: “After years of cost pressures, businesses in our sector are already operating on very tight margins, and further costs would have to be passed on to the consumer.”

John Farrand, MD of the Guild of Fine Food added: “My concern is that the tax will discriminate against smaller food & drink producers who use those ingredients judiciously and source them well to add necessary flavours.” The review also called for a push towards more environmentally friendly farming practices, recommending that of the

DOWN ON THE FARM The Green House farm shop has recently opened on the Dillington Estate, near Ilminster in Somerset. The owners have a passion for cooking and smoking foods that comes from their own experiences abroad, in countries including South Africa, New Zealand, Holland and Singapore. facebook.com/ TheGreenHouseIlminster Maria Robinson and her husband have been Dorset council tenants, farming land near Marnhull for sixand-a-half years, and have now opened a farm shop – Shepherds Farm Shop – selling their own lamb, beef and goat alongside a selection of Dorset producers’ wares. shepherdsfarmshop.com

Flint and Oak farm shop, pictured, has just added a garden café to its offer. Fresh coffee, baked goods, and al-fresco lunches will be served with views over the vineyard and surrounding countryside. flintandoak.shop Cattows Farm in Leicestershire has been transformed following refurbishment. The farm shop is well known as a pick-your-own destination –

IN BRIEF

£2.4bn per year budget for agricultural funding, £2.2bn be spent on Environmental Land Management (ELM) schemes. ELMs will pay for farmers to maintain hedgerows, engage in lowtill farming and maintain new woodlands, while a suggested ring-fencing of £500m-£700m will go towards encouraging farmers to convert less-productive areas into carbon-capturing landscapes used for smaller scale food production. The paper also called for a 21% reduction of the 70% of land in the UK currently used for food production. Chief Executive of the Soil Association Helen Browning welcomed the report. hailing its commitments to making farming more sustainable. Over the next six months, the Government has committed to develop a Food Strategy White Paper informed by the review and other stakeholders.

The Government has Walter Smith Fine Foods promised to launch has announced the a consultation closure of threeon stores public procurement in the Midlands. The this summer, a butcher chainwith revealed view to buying more over Christmas that its local food, following Denby Village, West a review of Government Bromwich and Coventry Buying Standards shops would stop trading, (GBS). leavingAitspokesperson with 11 outlets – said local manybuying of which arewill within be championed garden centres. in the updated GBS. gov.uk Tracklements has hired Ben Hallam for the role New research has of commercial manager, revealed that Brits lack which includes identifying awareness allergies. new marketofopportuniA survey carried ties. Hallam joinsout the by standards organisation Wiltshire-based condiGS1 that11 mentdetermined specialist after one cannot yearsinatsix dairy firmidentify Yeo any allergens in common Valley. food groups, while 66% of sufferers fail to ask about duePlanto Healthallergens food retailer social awkwardness. et Organic has moved gs1uk.org/feed-us-theinto the hot food delivery facts market and teamed up with high-end service Supper, which will courier Tebay Services – the a selection of to-go items Westmorland-owned and sushi from two Cenmotorway stores. tral Londonservices retailer – has been featured in a Channel 4 documentary, A Lake District Farm Shop. channel4.com

The latest from farm shops across the country

is home to the county’s largest pumpkin patch – and has been undergoing extensive refurbishment since February 2020. The retailer has expanded its premises to create a new seating area and brand-new commercial kitchen with

a specialist baking area. The revamped farm shop now also includes a deli counter. As well as seasonal produce from Cattows Farm itself, the shop offers an array of Leicestershire products, too. There is also a private room that can be hired out. The expansion – which, as well as catering for increasing visitor numbers, will support local jobs – is estimated to have cost around £450,000, and has been partly funded by the European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development. cattowsfarm.co.uk

In association with

Fabulous Farm Shops fabulousfarmshops.co.uk

Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

SHOP TALK IF I’D KNOWN THEN WHAT I KNOW NOW... JENNIFER OSBORNE-CLAMP, co-owner, Wilde & Greene, Tuddenham, Bury St Edmunds

As well as having 35 years of retail experience, my wife Sue is a marathon and ultramarathon runner – she’s run 256 marathons to date. In 2019, during the Great Barrow Challenge, she spotted the shop at Longwood Farm. We both love farm shops, so I went in and got chatting to the owner, Jill. I was originally a secondary science teacher and had set up a first aid training business, and I ended up running some summer school sessions at the shop. That September, Jill contacted us to let us know that she was thinking of closing the shop and asked if we wanted it. We got the keys on a Sunday and opened the following Wednesday, 25th September. We had already discussed how things might work differently – the take-out café was at the front with retail at the back. We thought the retail stock was too tucked away, so we switched it around and broadened the range, which was mostly organic. Sue has a keen eye for what will sell and while we think organic is great, we wanted to make our range more comprehensive and include as much local produce as possible. We expanded our convenience offer, too. I wasn’t convinced there would be much call for mainstream essentials in a farm shop, but Sue had this idea for a ‘convenience corner’. Now it’s not just a corner; we have organic coconut sugar next to ‘normal’ sugar, Heinz Beans are juxtaposed with Hodmedod’s baked beans, and so on. Retail sales account for 80% of revenue. The rest comes from takeaway coffees, teas and snacks, such as cakes, Scotch eggs and sausage rolls. We’ve made this retail-focused model work for us by being savvy. We seek out the best deals from our suppliers and our waste is very low – even on our fresh fruit and veg. If, for example, bananas have gone past their best visually, we might make up bargain banana muffin boxes. Knowing what our customers want and how and when they shop is key. We know 80% of our customers by name. We don’t try to push for high margins. We are reasonable in our pricing. We could, for example, double the price of our brownies, but we want to be known for being fair and offering good value. We have worked hard to forge links with the community, to win their trust. We enjoy raising money for a number of charities, and (pre-COVID) ran art sessions and a ‘jeffing’ (run-walking) club. During the pandemic, we were very adaptive. We told customers to send us their ‘wishlists’ and bent over backwards to source what we could. That has stuck and customers appreciate that they can ask for specific items. The challenge now is building our customer base as people return to supermarkets. A farm shop is like a puppy: it’s not just for Christmas… or for COVID. Interview: Lynda Searby Photography: Richard Faulks

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

CONFESSIONS OF A DELI OWNER ANONYMOUS TALES FROM BEHIND THE COUNTER COVID HAS ALLOWED me to put off loads of annoying jobs, the most dreaded of which is the range review. Yes, it’s long overdue but I have made a start by conducting some research. First, I thought I’d look at what other shops were doing and it seems to me that I’ve got two options: scale up or scale down. I spoke to a big deli – so big that it calls itself a farm shop – which is set up in a mini-shopping village next to other independent units. The manager said they had cut their lines by a third and taken out lots of shelving. There was more emphasis on serveover counters and tabletops with nicely arranged scattered products. The stock was easier to manage, and margin and turnover are up. Then, I chatted to the owner of a farm shop (actually on a farm) that has recently become a C-store franchisee. This shop is stacked. They’ve retained 90% of their existing ‘farm shop’ lines and added over double that in convenience SKUs. Turnover is 70% up, margin is down, and managing the shop is harder. So far, so inconclusive. Both options have their pros and cons. With that in mind, it made

Do they like to see a deli as an Aladdin’s cave? Or do they prefer it more sparsely populated? sense to consult some actual consumers. I played it safe and spoke to some non-retail friends of mine. Do they like to see a deli as an Aladdin’s cave, bursting with stock? Or do they prefer it more sparsely populated – less stock, more gifty, all beautifully merchandised with each piece laid out like designer shoes? The first person I asked, who I would describe as a typical regular, likes what he likes. He told me that I “just pile it high and sell it expensive”

MODEL RETAILING Mr Deli, are you ok? You’ve been staring at that bottle for five minutes.

and that he always spends more than he means to when he visits. Not exactly a compliment. Friend no. 2 is middle of the middle class road when it comes to food. Mostly a supermarket shopper, he only visits delis and farms shops at weekends, during holidays or when entertaining. His type are more numerous and I want more of them. His answer was: “I think it looks cheap if it’s packed in tight. Premium products should be given space.” When I had no grey hair and opened my shop, I went for the “carefully stocked” look. But soon the minimum order quantities and a smallish stock room meant more and more ended up on the shop floor. Like most other delis, I have stock on high shelves, middle shelves and low shelves, not to mention near the café tables, under counters and on the floor. Now it has become a what I call a convenience store for foodies, but I don’t really like it. And, it seems my customers aren’t that keen on it, either. Nothing like high quality research to unearth the truth about retail. Looks like I’m swapping my genie lamps for Jimmy Choos.

SOLVING EVERYDAY SHOPKEEPING DILEMMAS. IN MINIATURE.

…Cleaning rota, upcoming rent review, cheese wedding cakes, Sunday opening hours…

Yes, I’m fine

…furlough decisions, profit & loss account, face masks, online shop. When can I take a holiday?

Business rates, lateral flow tests, Christmas ordering, staff pension scheme, Facebook posts… FFD says: Even before the pandemic hit, the food retail business could be a pretty lonely place. This is especially true for those who are the sole decision-makers in smaller operations. If you are feeling the pressure, don’t suffer in silence. Seek help from a retail consultant, make changes to the way you run your business or, at the very least, talk through your problems and stresses with someone else. When it comes to mental health, the world is a much more understanding place. There’s no shame in trying to look after yourself. editorial@gff.co.uk With kind permission of Geobra Brandstätter Stiftung & Co. KG, Germany. PLAYMOBIL is a registered trademark of Geobra Brandstätter Stiftung & Co. KG, for which also the displayed PLAYMOBIL toy figures are protected.

Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

SHOP TALK

Retailers’ view…

WHAT’S TRENDING

… on face masks in store

NICK BAINES KEEPS YOU UP TO DATE WITH THE NEWEST DISHES, FLAVOURS AND INNOVATIONS IN FOOD & DRINK

Barry Hutchinson, co-owner, Hutchinson Hobbs Farm Shop, nr Stockton-on-Tees

I didn’t want our staff asking people to wear a mask in the shop, as this could cause unnecessary stress and conflict. We’ve had quite a heated discussion about mask-wearing. My view was to stick to government guidelines, then you can’t really go wrong. If people still want to wear a mask they can, and if people choose not to that’s their decision. All our staff have had two doses of the vaccine and we’re only a shop with no café, so people on average only spend 10 minutes here. I also didn’t want our staff asking people to wear a mask in the shop as this could cause unnecessary stress and conflict. My wife and mum on the other hand passionately wanted to make the staff and customers keep wearing masks. In the end, I convinced them that we would advise wearing a mask but ultimately, it’s the customer’s choice. We asked our staff to keep wearing masks when among customers. Again, without patronising anybody, we feel people can make their own judgement. On ‘Freedom Day’, most customers kept their masks on with only a couple not wearing them. We still have a few members of staff wearing masks, and we feel going forward, as customers feel increasingly confident more will start taking them off. hutchinsonhobbs.co.uk

Oliver Stubbins, manager, Welbeck Farm Shop, Nottinghamshire

The number of COVID cases reported is increasing, so it seems the wrong time to decrease protection. We still require staff and customers to wear masks unless medically exempt. The number of COVID cases reported is increasing, so it seems the wrong time to decrease protection. Half of the team across the shop and café are not double jabbed yet. We have staff members in their 20s and 30s waiting for their second dose, under-18s too young to be vaccinated, a pregnant staff member, and some with underlying health conditions that still need protection. We’re seeing a good take-up of masks anyway and only had customers who’ve said they’re exempt not wearing one. We can’t challenge whether people are exempt or not. If somebody says they’re exempt, we will take it at face value. We’ve also decided to provide disposable face masks for free if somebody visits the shop without one because they think that they don’t need to wear it. We don’t want to wear masks at work for eight hours a day. We sell a lot over the counter to customers which can be difficult when you’re wearing a mask, but it doesn’t feel right or safe to relax now.” welbeckfarmshop.co.uk Shane Godwin, managing director, Macknade Food Hall, Faversham, Kent

We saw many customers continue to wear a mask on ‘Freedom Day’. Our sales didn’t drop off and no-one panicked. We’ve decided that our staff will continue to wear masks, but we’re allowing customers who choose not to wear a mask into the shop. Personal responsibility and freedom of choice is something that we were happy for customers to have, but while we’re not enforcing mask wearing, we are strongly recommending it through our communications and signage. I also didn’t want to put our staff in the position of having an angry confrontation with a customer who feels strongly that they shouldn’t wear a mask. That’s an argument that I didn’t feel we needed to have. Fortunately, there’s been a good response from the community and our staff are comfortable with our decision. We saw many customers continue to wear a mask on ‘Freedom Day’. Our sales didn’t drop off and no-one panicked, so I think they trust that what we’re doing is the right thing. We’ve got a great team on the floor so we will certainly be able to manage any problems that may arise, but I don’t think there will be any drama. macknade.com 12

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

1 Decaf coffee No longer the ugly duckling of speciality coffee, high-quality decaf is now winning praise from the sniffiest of coffee snobs. While traditionally decaffeination was carried out through harsh chemical processes, there’s been a move in recent years towards gentler, more natural means. The most well-known and highly regarded is the Swiss Water Process but there are a number of similar methods at play globally. Methods that are kinder on the planet, but also retain more of the coffee’s intriguing characteristics. Using beans of this ilk, roasters like Ozone, Extract and Bad Hand are coaxing out more depth and complexity than ever before – so you get robust, lively flavours and good body, without the jitters. 2 Jollof Jollof is a West African rice dish that’s finding its way into a number of flavour-packed street eats. It is typically made with rice, tomatoes, onions and spices. While this dish is proving a big hit in plant-based circles, it can also take in meat – most commonly chicken and beef. At London’s Kerb market, Jollof Mama turns out a queue-inducing bowl of jollof which comes with deep-fried black bean fritters and fried plantain. Meanwhile, Affrito at Shoreditch’s weekly Urban Food Fest knocks out African-inspired burritos loaded with the famed rice dish and an abundance of fresh salad and guacamole. 3 Boxed wine While boxed wine has long been associated with low-quality plonk, today you can find plenty of top-drawer vino in the bag-and-box format. With the packaging being lighter and easier to stack and ship, the carbon footprint actually comes in much lower than a glass bottle. A high margin in your average bottle of wine goes towards bottling and shipping, which is significantly reduced in bag-and-box. This means pound for pound, drinkers usually get not only higher volumes of wine, but a drink that’s often higher quality too. Northern Spain’s Democratic Wines turns out boxed wine under its Organic & Orgasmic label, while direct-toconsumer brand Laylo offers a refined collection of four premium wines delivered to your door.

THE

GUIDE TO TEA

DARJE E LING

JASMINE

This aromatic leaf with fruity and floral tones is grown in the foothills of the Himalayas. Sherlock actor and devoted tea drinker, Benedict Cumberbatch, spent a year in Darjeeling teaching English to local children. The type of school? It was elementary.

Sweet and fragrant, Jasmine tea was first introduced to China by the Han dynasty. This has proven one of the most popular achievements by a Chinese dynasty, second only the Tang dynasty’s creation of Haribo ‘Tang-fastics’ in the 7th century.

ASSAM

E ARL GRE Y

CE YLON

George Orwell had 11 rules for making the perfect cuppa. The first was to use a malty Indian tea such as Assam, as it made you feel “wiser, braver and more optimistic”. Presumably he used an optimism-free blend in his later works.

Invigorating and citrusy, this tea is named after the second Earl Grey, Viscount Howick. Afternoon tea would be unimaginable today without the contributions made to it by English nobility. Just ask Queen Victoria, the Earl of Sandwich, or Baroness Buttery Crumpets.

Sri Lanka was once the world’s largest producer of coffee. Tea took over after the coffee plants were wiped out by a coffee rust known as ‘Devastating Emily’. The only Emily to cause similar levels of devastation was Emily Brontë, with ‘Wuthering Heights’.

CHAMOMILE

OOLONG

MATCHA

‘Chamomile’ comes from the Greek ‘Khamaimelon’, meaning ‘earth apple’. This apple-scented herbal infusion is soothing and relaxing, and thought to help improve the quality of your sleep. So if you want to feel calmer, calmer, calmer, calmer, calmer: Khamaimelon.

Oolong made in the Gong Fu style will see the leaves steeped repeatedly. With a mere 20-second brewing time, each cup will provide a different flavour experience. So provided you don’t brew your Oolong too long, it’ll be truly madly steeply.

Green teas such as Matcha are thought by some to have health-giving properties. Provided, that is, they are drunk without dairy or sweeteners. Research has shown that Matcha drinkers that use milk are rare, but drinkers that use sugar? Demerara.

Speak to your account manager for a free sample of Miller’s Elegant & English Gluten-free Raspberries & Dark Chocolate biscuits for tea.

& CREAM , LEMON & GINGER , & CUSTARD , AND R ASPBERRIES & DARK CHOCOLATE .

STR AWBERRIES BAKED APPLE

Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Food & Drink Wales

Taste the Passion. This is Wales. October could be the ideal time for buyers to visit Wales. Not only is there is a trade event showcasing hundreds of producers but you’ll also get a chance to see this land of food & drink first-hand. BOUNTIFUL LARDER OF PRODUCE Like most of what Wales does well, its food and drink is rooted in its communities, shaped by its landscape, and honed by its culture and language. Whether artisan or mass-market, the warmth of Welsh people shines through the quality of what is produced. SUSTAINABILITY Welsh food & drink has a deep connection to the landscape, the people and culture whilst acknowledging its part in the bigger picture. In a global ecosystem, things like environmental responsibility, sustainability, traceability and social justice really do matter. The Welsh Government earlier this year launched its future strategic mission for the industry for the next decade. Dubbed the ‘green shoots’ vision, it’s hoped that by focussing on sustainable growth and productivity, climate and ecological impact, fair work and raising standards throughout, Wales can create one of the most environmentally and socially responsible supply chains in the world - without compromising its global reputation for excellence. TASTEWALES / BLASCYMRU 2021 On 27th-28th October 2021, food & drink buyers will once again converge on the fivestar Celtic Manor Resort, at the International Convention Centre Wales, Newport, to view over 2,000 products and talk to leading food & drink suppliers about what products are new on the market. BlasCymru/TasteWales 2021 will provide the platform for the launch of over 14

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

200 new products with over 100 food & drink producers taking part who collectively produce a wide range of lines, from speciality items for niche markets to high volume items for major distribution networks. Welsh Government Minister for Rural Affairs and North Wales, and Trefnydd, Lesley Griffiths says: “With the coronavirus situation continuing to improve here in Wales, we are very hopeful and looking forward to welcoming suppliers, buyers and food industry professionals to the International Convention Centre at the Celtic Manor Resort later this year for BlasCymru/TasteWales 2021. “The event presents an excellent opportunity to showcase the very best of Wales and it is fantastic that more than 200 new products will be launched over the two days which is great news as the industry continues its recovery from the impact of COVID-19. “Sustainability will, of course, be central at the event as we build on our strategic vision to become a world leader in the area.” Princes Limited, one of the largest names in the UK food & drink industry, has been unveiled as the key sponsor for BlasCymru/ TasteWales 2021. The event looks to connect retailers, wholesalers and foodservice operators with a view to visiting Wales in October 2021 to meet with a large number of food & drink suppliers over the two day event packed with supplier face-to-face meetings, products demonstrations, tastings, products showcases, a full conference agenda and the opportunity to network with the industry.

REASONS FOR VISITING THE EVENT INCLUDE: • Over 200 products being launched - be the first to discover the latest on-trend innovative products. • Meet an industry under one roof from large scale companies to artisan producers – representing a broad and diverse range of product categories. • Product showcase and tastings - display of all products across broad range of categories including private label, foodservice and retail products. • Time efficient one or two day meeting itinerary - tailored meeting itineraries for professional buyers with short meeting programme format, making efficient and effective use of time • Meet Welsh food & drink producers - meet potential suppliers based on products and categories that match your criteria with profiles available to review before the event. • Expert advice is available to help identify potential suppliers that match your brief.

For more information please contact Ellie Lewis email: ellie.lewis@tastewales.com or telephone 01691 839398 FoodDrinkWales Food_Drink_Wales @FoodDrinkWales

meet a nation of food and drink innovators Meet the Supplier | 1,000 Product Showcase | Rising Star Marketplace Beer, cider and mead

Cheese/dairy

Charcuterie & deli

Confectionery

200 NEW Product Launches

Food to go

Frozen

Grocery

Meal solutions

Meet the Supplier – time efficient

Snacks

Soft drinks & water

Special diet

1,000 Product Showcase

Seafood

Spirits Low & no alcohol drinks

Wine

Oils, preserves & condiments

World foods

Designed for professional buyers

Meat and poultry

Plant based

Desserts

Bakery

Meet an industry

under one roof

International Convention Centre Wales Celtic Manor Resort, Newport 27-28 October 2021

For more information please contact Ellie Lewis e: ellie.lewis@tastewales.com t: +44 (0)1691 839938 Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Fish4Ever

The recent Netflix documentary correctly highlighted the problems that exist within the industrial fishing industry, but its conclusion that sustainable fishing does not exist grossly misses the mark, according to Fish4Ever’s founder.

Seaspiracy: Right arguments, wrong answers.

SEASPIRACY IS RIGHT to direct the microscope at the industrial fishing industry. Overfishing is still a huge problem, as is bycatch, meaning that endangered species like sharks, turtles, whales and dolphins are still in danger. Plastic waste and the ghost catch of marine life is a serious threat, and logos that have positioned themselves as acceptable standard for sustainability such as dolphin friendly and the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) are deceptive. Large environmental organisations often behave politically on these issues, while illegal fishing, slavery at sea and human rights violations occur with depressing regularity. Industrial fishing is at the heart of all of these problems, with massive subsidies supporting bad fishing outcomes and undermining sustainability The problem, according to Fish4Ever founder Charles Redfern, is that this all leads to the incredibly simplistice conclusion that sustainable fishing does not exist – and the documentary itself comes with its own agenda. “Look at that list of issues covered by the Seaspiracy documentary,” he says. “Fish4Ever has ticked every single one of those

boxes. We dumped sustainable logos because we thought they weren’t valid. That meant locking our products out of hundreds of shops where sustainable supply rules demanded those logos. “We’ve worked alongside some of the scientists and NGO’s featured in the film – including the brilliant Environmental Justice Foundation (check them out please). We never buy on price because we think human rights abuse and cutting corners comes if your most important ask is for the cheapest price.” Every Fish4Ever can is traceable back to the boats that fished it, utilising a code on each and every can, which can be tracked via our site. Redfern adds: “We look at the ‘who, what, how and where’ of every fish we sell and support high quality small supply chains. Our tuna is only ever caught one by one, it’s the only tuna in the world certified by the incredibly well respected Naturland certification and we’re sponsoring a plastic positive project so that the gear lost by others at sea will be picked up by our boats.” Fish4Ever only ever adds natural and organic ingredients into its cans, such as first cold pressed organic olive oil. The choice to use organic agriculture means choosing to avoid the 300-plus chemicals that can be used in conventional farming, which comes back to further affect the seas through chemical run-off. “Seaspiracy was right to bring the dangers and devastating environmental impact of industrial fishing to the

public domain, and we are grateful to be having these conversations on a larger scale, however they were very wrong to say sustainability isn’t possible,” says Fish4Ever’s founder. IF YOU CAN...

Canned fish is underrepresented in most independent shops and this is a missed opportunity. The product takes up very little space and retailers could be losing valuable sales. And it’s got some great selling points: highly recyclable packaging, lower energy/carbon footprint, plenty of health benefits. Fish4Ever recommends allocating a minimum of 75cm of shelf space to cover 8 SKUs. “Fish4Ever was founded on the idea of being organic values to sustainability in fish,” says founder Charles Redfern. “Our holistic, all-encompassing approach is both real and comprehensive, focussing on land, sea and people, supporting not only the best possible fishing practices, but also the communities and small boats that enact them. This is canned fish you can trust.”

www.Fish4Ever.co.uk Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

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Av ail ab le

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ROC K STA R ™ Discover distinctively rich and creamy vintage Cheddar, aged to perfection in Welsh slate caves.

BEST BRITISH CHEESE BR AND as voted by the Fine Food Digest Survey 2020-21 August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

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CHEESEWIRE

news & views from the cheese counter

Retailers slam “confused” update to pregnancy safety guidance By Patrick McGuigan

The new NHS advice says no unpasteurised cheese, including hard varieties, should be eaten during pregnancy. It has also added Stilton to the ‘safe’ list.

The Fine Cheese Co has decided to continue to categorise mature, hard raw milk cheeses as safe to eat during pregnancy on its website and shops, but will make it clear to customers that its advice differs from NHS recommendations. “We have contacted the NHS to express our dismay at this advice and are currently hoping their advice may change,” said Raskin. “The new advice displays a fundamental misunderstanding of where the risk lies.” Several other cheesemongers echoed Raskin’s thoughts. “It’s poor advice that doesn’t make scientific sense,” said Martin Gott, Cumbriabased cheesemaker and cheesemonger, while Mons cheesemonger Anne Hastings described the advice as a “retrograde step”. To add to the confusion, NHS Wales still continues to advise women that it is safe to eat raw and pasteurised hard cheeses, while NHS Scotland recommends that all raw milk cheeses are avoided. FFD contacted the Food Standards Agency, which is responsible for advising the NHS on the matter but had not received an answer at the time of going to press.

NEWS IN BRIEF Exports of cheese to the EU fell by 72% in the first quarter of 2021, compared to the same period in 2020, according to the Food & Drink Federation, which blamed disruption from the COVID-19 pandemic and Brexit. Cumbria cheesemakers Martin Gott and Nicola Robinson, best known for the washed-rind St James, have launched a mixed sheep and goats’ milk cheese called GoaShee. It is aged for around six months and has a supple texture. Cheese and beer specialist Simon Bowden, who owns Palmer Street Bottle in Frome, has opened a second outlet in Bath. Kingsmead Street Bottle is a shop and café selling West Country cheeses alongside a range of craft beer, wine and cider.

Online cheese retailer Cheese Cuisine launched a new cheese, wine & book club last month called Fromage & Fiction. The retailer chooses a different book by an emerging British author each month and creates an accompanying cheeseboard inspired by the plot of the novel, which is then sent to customers with the book. The first novel was The Funny Thing About Norman Foreman by Julietta Henderson. cheesecuisine.co.uk

Paxton & Whitfield

New NHS guidance on cheeses that are safe to eat during pregnancy has been criticised for being “confused” and “fundamentally inaccurate” by cheesemongers and makers. The guidance, introduced in England last year, is radically different to previous advice, which used to state that all hard cheeses, whether with raw or pasteurised, were safe to eat. The NHS now advises that all raw milk cheeses in any style should be avoided during pregnancy. However, it also says that cheddar, Stilton and Parmesan are safe to eat, despite the fact that Stilton is not a hard cheese and, under the terms of its PDO,

Parmesan is always made with raw milk. “The new advice is confused and unclear,” said Ruth Raskin, quality care manager at The Fine Cheese Co. “I also think it’s fundamentally inaccurate. I would not categorise Stilton as a hard cheese and I would therefore not advise that it is safe to eat in pregnancy. “I agree that Parmesan is safe to eat in pregnancy, but its safety has absolutely nothing to do with pasteurisation. It is safe to eat because it does not have sufficient available water for listeria to flourish. Therefore if the cheese is contaminated by listeria, the listeria cannot multiply to sufficient numbers to pose a risk.”

THREE WAYS WITH...

Cremoso Paxton & Whitfield has added this Spanish torta-style cheese to its Christmas range. Made by Cañarejal in Valladolid, Castile y Leon, the 250g cheeses are made with raw ewe’s milk and cardoon thistle, and have a bloomy white rind. Cut the top off the cheese and the paste inside is white and runny, with sweet earthy flavours. Cherries At this time of the year, fresh cherries are lovely dipped into the sweet oozy interior of Cremoso. Their juicy acidity cuts through the richness. As the seasons change, fresh fruit can be swapped for cherries preserved in alcohol, such as Guinettes from France – morellos soaked in brandy and kirsch. Breadsticks Crusty bread and crudités are often dipped into torta cheeses, but breadsticks and grissini also work well, providing contrasting crunch and good cross-selling opportunities for delis. Herb-flavoured varieties, such as Vallebona’s hand-rolled Rosemary Grissini, work particularly well with the sweet, sheepy flavour of the cheese. Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie Cremoso’s white, Penicillium candidum rind imparts a distinct mushroomy flavour to the cheese, which dovetails with herbaceous white wines with a touch of salinity. Muscadet Sèvre et Maine ‘sur lie’ from the Western part of the Loire Valley is a good bet. Made with Melon de Bourgogne grapes, the wines are dry but often have a mineral, flinty tang and a creamy mouthfeel from being aged on their lees – qualities that complement the salty, rich cheese. Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

CHEESEWIRE

news & views from the cheese counter

Canadian cheese giant Saputo buys Wensleydale Creamery in Hawes

Laura Roberts, Laura’s Larder, Petts Wood, Orpington

By Patrick McGuigan

The company that saved Yorkshire Wensleydale from extinction nearly 30 years ago has been acquired by dairy multinational Saputo as it looks to tap into demand for local provenance. The £23m deal to buy Hawes-based Wensleydale Dairy Products was announced last month by Canadian company Saputo, which has 61 manufacturing facilities and 17,300 employees globally. According to Caroline Roux, consultant analyst at research firm Mintel, the takeover was driven by growing demand for local and British foods. “Local provenance and heritage stories are compelling avenues to add value to cheese,” she said. “By financially supporting a small-scale dairy manufacturer, Saputo is also meeting consumers’ aspiration to buy national food to support the British economy.” The Wensleydale Creamery employs more than 200 staff and reported adjusted EBITDA

CHEESE IN PROFILE with St Jude What’s the story? This most delicate, soft lactic cheese is made by renowned cheesemaker Julie Cheyney at Fen Farm in Bungay, Suffolk. Julie was a dairymaid in her teenage years and has always been fascinated by milk. Her dream to become a

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

BEHIND THE COUNTER TIPS OF THE TRADE

The Wensleydale Creamery joins a corporate stable that also includes the Cathedral City cheddar brand

of just £163k on revenues of £34.8m in the year to 31st March 2020. It said both the onset of COVID-19 and a competitive commercial environment were behind the “disappointing” return. The company was previously owned by Dairy Crest, which closed the plant in 1992 and moved production of the famous crumbly cheese to Lancashire. However, a local businessman and former employees successfully launched a management buyout cheesemaker came true cocreating Tunworth alongside Stacey Hedges at Hampshire Cheeses. On departure, and after two years travelling to various cheese regions, Julie set up White Wood Dairy in Hampshire and 2012 saw St Jude become a reality. On a mission to find the best milk suited to this St Marcellin style cheese, she moved production to Fen Farm in Suffolk (home to Baron Bigod cheese) where she felt the care and welfare for the Montbeliarde herd produced the right quality of milk for her cheesemaking.

and restarted production at the site in the same year. One of the team was David Hartley, who was instrumental in achieving PGI status for Yorkshire Wensleydale in 2013, and served as MD until his death from cancer in December 2020. Saputo acquired the UK’s biggest cheddar brand Cathedral City as part of a £975m takeover of Dairy Crest in 2019 and also acquired Bute Islands Foods in May, which makes vegan cheese alternative Sheese.

How is it made? St Jude is made using the farm’s raw Montbeliarde cows’ milk, piped fresh from the milking parlour to the cheese room. The milk composition changes throughout the year depending on the seasons, the cows’ lactation stage and what they are eating. Production of this lactic-set cheese is slow and gentle, each cheese is hand-made with as little intervention as possible, while keeping

Laura Roberts worked for 21 years in PR and marketing before opening her cheese shop and deli in 2020 but hasn’t forgotten the power of communication. “The story-telling aspect of my previous job has really helped me,” she says. “If you pass on to customers interesting information about a cheese, they tell their friends and it gives them confidence when they come back. It’s something supermarkets just can’t do.” There are two channels that Roberts uses, posting pictures of products with back stories, pairings and recipe suggestions. She posts on Instagram in the evenings when more people are scrolling on their phones, while Facebook works better during the day. Giveaways encouraging people to like and follow to win a prize have also proved successful in building relationships. “I’ve got 2,000 Instagram followers and similar on Facebook, and I know who most of them are. They are customers who actually come into the shop rather than random followers.” lauraslarder.co.uk

an eye on cheesemaking conditions. The curd is cut into 1cm cubes before being ladled into moulds and allowed to drain. At four days, the cheeses are dry salted and then matured for around two weeks, during which time they develop a thin mould and yeast rind. Appearance & texture: St Jude has a recognisable white wrinkly rind with a soft, smooth paste. It has a fresh grass aroma and clean, salted cream flavour. As it ages, it becomes more molten

with farmyard aromas and vegetal, field mushroom notes. Variations: none Cheesemonger tip: Each cheese is packed in its own box – a perfect dinner party gift. Offer as a British alternative to St Marcelin. It’s a special cheese for those looking for a showstopper on the cheeseboard. Chef’s recommendation: To appreciate all the flavours this cheese has to offer, simply smear onto sourdough bread with a drizzle of wildflower honey on top. It pairs well with dry Sake, too.

There are a number of ways you can study Level 1 & 2 Academy of Cheese courses; online as self-study eLearning, interactive virtual classes or traditional classes at a venue. academyofcheese.org

A CHEESE FROM

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL VILLAGE IN SWITZERLAND. TRULY IMPECCABLE TASTE. GRUYERE.COM

Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

Runaway Relish

info@croomecuisine.com | 01905 350788 | www.croomecuisine.com

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

CHEESEWIRE

news and views from the cheese counter

Flower-filled meadows make interesting cheese

Linked to the land Former ecologist Carrie Rimes has used her passion for North Wales’s grasslands to create a range of sheep’s milk cheeses By Patrick McGuigan

CARRIE RIMES NEVER tires of the drive to the sheep farm on the Llŷn Peninsula where she collects milk to make her cheese. “It’s a very bosky part of the world,” she says. “Damp meadows, high hedgerows and tree-lined fields, but with views of the hills. Everywhere is covered in pink campions at the moment.” The scenery is so beautiful that she often stops to take photos and plans to create a gallery on her computer, set to music written by her fiddle-playing son. Rimes’ interest in nature is deeply rooted. She grew up on a farm in West Devon, where she made cheese with her mother in the kitchen, and has spent her adult life in the wilds of North Wales, where she worked for 24 years as a grassland scientist, researching the ecology and conservation of Welsh grasslands. When her son left for university in 2011, she took a different direction, learning to make cheese in France, eventually spending three years on a farm in the Auvergne. She also acquired more understanding of how dairy farming and nature can work together. “As an ecologist, I got so fed up with speciesrich grasslands being treated as museum pieces,” she says. “We need to make economic use of their biodiversity, which is second nature in France, where they understand that flower-filled meadows make interesting cheese.” Her experiences underpin her cheese business Cosyn Cymru (‘Welsh Truckle’), which she set up in 2015, after returning from France with the idea of making Welsh sheep’s cheese. Initially, she struggled to find farmers

to work with, but Rimes has slowly managed to encourage three local farms to move into grassfed sheep’s milk, which she uses to make several unpasteurised cheeses. The most well-known of these is the lactic Brefu Bach (‘Little Bleat’) that recently picked up the coveted James Aldridge Memorial Trophy from the SCA. The supplying farms are tiny, even by artisan cheese standards. Derwen Gam (‘Crooked Oak’) on the Llŷn Peninsula milks just 80 Llŷn breed sheep. Rimes also collects from an Anglesey start-up with 100 Lacaune/East Friesians and a farm on the edge of Snowdonia National Park with a mixed flock of traditional breeds. The land they graze bursts with plants, such as yarrow, red clover, butterfly orchids and wild thyme. “We used to have a mosaic of different grasslands, but these are rapidly disappearing,” says Rimes. “A lot of milk isn’t produced on grass at all in this country and if animals are grass-fed, they are often on sugar-rich rye grass and clover, which produces loads of milk. Having a mixture of grasses, herbs and flowers is less productive, but you get much richer, more interesting milk for cheesemaking. It’s also much better for insect life, bird populations, soil health, carbon storage and reducing nitrogen run-off.” Cosyn Cymru takes around 16,000 litres of milk a year from the farms, which equates to 350500 Brefu Bach and 40kg of hard cheese a week, made by Rimes in space rented from Anglesey cheesemaker Caws Rhyd Y Delyn. Work is nearly finished on Cosyn Cymru’s own dairy at a former church in Bethesda, near Snowdonia, which will feature specialist maturing rooms, plus capacity to handle up to 70,000 litres of milk a year. It should be operational by the autumn, ready for the first flush of spring milk in 2022. This is good news for delis and farm shops across the UK, who will be able to buy Rimes’ cheeses more easily, but also for the grasslands of North Wales. cosyn.cymru

CROSS

SECTION

The Cosyn Cymru range 1

Made from unpasteurised sheep’s milk and lambs’ rennet, Caws Chwaral comes in 6kg wheels. The curd is scalded at 34°C and is cut into relatively small pieces to make a drier Caerphilly that can be aged for 2-5 months.

Caws Calan is a younger version of the cheese, aged for 2-4 months in 600g truckles. It is named after Carrie Rimes’ son’s Welsh folk band Calan. Patrick Rimes plays fiddle and Welsh pipes in the group and has been known to sell the cheese at gigs.

Cosyn Cymru is best known for Brefu Bach (Little Bleat) – a yeast-ripened, lactic, raw milk cheese that last month won the James Aldridge Memorial Trophy. “I was quite stunned, but completely delighted,” says Rimes.

Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

We work with local producers to help identify new trends, bring forward innovative products and grow their business.

Northern Ireland.

Bringing our world-class food and drink to your table. When you source food and drink from Northern Ireland you can be sure of its pure, natural, quality. Our award-winning artisan food and drink producers are embracing growing demand for innovative, speciality food and drink at home and further afield and the industry is thriving. That’s why Invest Northern Ireland’s Food and Drink division works with local producers to help them take their products around the world. Whether it’s helping companies to find new markets in the Republic of Ireland, or working with UK supply chains to drive new sales, Invest NI partners with our local producers to help them identify new trends, bring forward innovative products and grow their business. Learn how you can serve our quality food and drink.

Northern Ireland. Altogether more.

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

For further information contact Michelle Charrington, Invest NI E: michelle.charrington@investni.com M: +44 78 1717 3514 Drew McIvor, Invest NI E: drew.mcivor@investni.com M: +44 78 1354 4535

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Directly from Italy, Stocked & Distributed in the United Kingdom Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

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August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

For the love of tea

Now in its 35th year, UK-based Ahmad Tea is still on a mission to inspire tea drinkers around the world with its passion for tea and commitment to quality. We take a look at how this much loved brand nurtures the tea through every stage in its journey, the artistry behind a great cup, and the company’s dedication to giving back through every tea they sell.

NURTURING EVERY CUP Not all teas are created equal. To produce the finest tea takes time, patience, and dedication. To ensure the highest quality, every single Ahmad Tea blend undergoes a long, intricate journey from crop to cup. From hand plucking the best leaves and buds from the world’s finest tea gardens to tasting the tea at every stage, the tea is nurtured to ensure every sip is worth it. AHMAD TEA: OUR TEA JOURNEY STAGE 1 Plucking: The top two leaves and bud are carefully hand-plucked by experts from the finest tea gardens to ensure the finished tea is the highest quality. STAGE 2 Withering: Once plucked and collected, the tea leaves are spread over a long tray and dried with hot air. STAGE 3 Rolling/Cutting: Rolling breaks down the veins of the leaves, releasing the juices to begin fermentation. STAGE 4 Fermentation: The tea leaves are left in a cool, airy, humid room to ferment. This stage is vital as it determines the taste. STAGE 5 Drying: The tea leaves are then dried in an oven. Timing is crucial as if firing continues for too long the tea will take on a burnt taste. STAGE 6 Grading: Finally, the leaves are graded and sorted into different categories before being packed and shipped.

TEA ARTISTRY: THE GIFT OF A GREAT CUP The perfect cup of tea isn’t created without a lot of hard work; tea artistry takes time and dedication. Ahmad Tea has some of the world’s best tea tasters on their team who sample up to 500 cups each day to ensure the blends are of the highest quality and the taste is consistent. When contemplating different blends, Tea Tasters will consider the compatibility of different teas with one another – like an artist creating colour. They have travelled all over the world to the best tea estates and retain a taste memory so they can review many variations of the same tea type from different estates. Senior Tea Taster, William Manning, describes the work that goes into creating the perfect cup: “I believe that tea blending is an art. It’s constant trial and error. Sometimes you can select the two best tasting teas and when you put them together, they clash. But when you create the perfect blend there’s no other way to describe it than euphoria! To be an artist takes a huge amount of passion and determination to achieve something at the highest level.”

Ahmad Tea FINE TEA GIFTS WITH A CONSCIENCE As a proud member of the Ethical Tea Partnership, Ahmad Tea strives to make the world a better place with every single tea and gift it sells. The business does this by donating a considerable percentage of profits to community and charity projects – spreading kindness to those who need it most – from helping people in Niger access clean water to creating equal and fair access to quality education for communities in crisis in Ukraine.

COMING SOON! Beyond The Leaf: A new luxury tea collection from Ahmad Tea & Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew

Launching Christmas 2021, Beyond The Leaf is an exciting new collaboration between two iconic British brands, balancing Ahmad Tea’s four generations of tea knowledge with the natural beauty and heritage of Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. The stunning new luxury tea collection sees the prestigious English heritage brand come together with some of the world’s most beautifully blended teas to create a gift collection that is refined, elegant, and quintessentially British. Featuring four classic blends – Majestic Breakfast, Splendid Ceylon, Garden Afternoon and Elegant Earl Grey – the collection is the perfect balance of quality and elegance, for a smooth, delicious brew at any time of the day.

Beyond The Leaf, the new collection from Ahmad Tea in collaboration with Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew will be available to buy from uk.ahmadtea.com and shop.kew.org from Christmas 2021. To enquire about Ahmad Tea’s wider range of Great Taste award-winning teas and luxury tea gifts, contact Ahmad Tea at info@ahmadtea.com or go to uk.ahmadtea.com.

Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

FEATURE

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

mental health

>> CYBER CRIME

After what has been an undoubtedly stressful year, even for those who have fared well through the pandemic, FFD investigates ways in which retailers can better look after the mental wellbeing of their staff, and how this could improve the industry as a whole

Checking in While many independent food retailers have seen something of a gold rush during the pandemic, with consumers flocking to the indies from the supermarkets early last year, the usual stresses associated with the sector have only been exacerbated. Now, with the pressures created by Brexit added to the mix, what are they doing to help and what can they do better? It took the unexpected and premature death by suicide of two of his former staff for one deli owner to take a step back and reflect on the role his business could play in the wellbeing of his team. The pair had left the business when the tragedy occurred, but it left Iain Hemming, owner of Thyme & Tides in Stockbridge, wondering what he could do better. “I didn’t know how to convey my feeling to the parents other than by going to see them. I just went and knocked on the door.” Over the course of the following hour, through tears and laughter, he says, the owner decided to do more with his business to look after the wellbeing of his team. “It’s our responsibility to look after these people because we spend more time with them than they do with their families,” says Hemming. And in an industry with, as he says, “a reputation for people on the edge of burnout,

working long hours and not being particularly well looked after,” it is crucial to make a change. Those normal stresses, according to the Association of Convenience Stores CEO James Lowman, have been massively exacerbated by the pandemic. “One of the major threats to mental health in the grocery industry is the various incidents involving ‘bad’ customers. We may not be aware, but these negative interactions have a cumulative effect,” he says, “and coronavirus has created another set of flashpoints for those incidents.” Lowman says that, as well as creating additional stress in terms of customer numbers, retailers have often found themselves policing government regulations and the conflicts arising from disagreements around them, and this takes its toll. According to recent ACS statistics, 40% of local shop staff have reported a decline in their mental health due to the COVID-19 pandemic. This is something that has been borne out in many of the UK’s farm shops and delis. For Kate Forbes of Somerset’s Trading Post Farm Shop, the “immense” pressure of the past 18 months has been testing. Forbes was “ready to give up” in April, when she and her business partner husband, Andy, were working all hours to keep the operation alive. When you factor in policing mask debates among angry customers and dealing with the brunt of people’s pandemic-related frustrations, Forbes and her staff have been pushed to the limit, “but we got through it,” she says. It is this cumulative pressure that we need to watch

40%* of local shop staff reported a decline in their mental health during COVID-19

*Source: ACS, Voice of Local Shops polling (Feb 2021)

CONTINUED ON PAGE 31

It’s our responsibility to look after these people because we spend more time with them than they do with their families Iain Hemming, Thyme & Tides

Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

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August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

mental health THE FOUR KEY AREAS OF WELLBEING Lucy Knight, of customer experience specialists Insight6 breaks down the four key areas affecting wellbeing.

From an employer’s perspective, the word wellbeing can be scary – it’s a massive topic, and they don’t know where to start. What they need to do is break it down into the four key areas, which are: Mental: How are you doing and how are you coping? This is the one which people are thinking about most right now.

Physical: Health & fitness bleeds into wellbeing in more ways than we might imagine. If you’re asking people to repeatedly perform physically demanding tasks, or even something like climbing the stairs repeatedly, are you performing a risk assessment? Are you really looking after people? If not, they may sense this and not feel valued.

One of the major threats to mental health in the grocery James Lowman, industry is the ACS various incidents involving ‘bad’ customers

out for, though. Mental health consultant Patrick Melville, of training provider and consultancy Melville Mental Solutions, says that we often wait for burnout before we act. Our traditional approach to mental health, he says, is that we put it off until we are forced to act. Our focus, though, should be on giving people a “mental MoT”, he says. “We need to increase awareness, remove the stigma and allow people that space to check in and make a change before they slide into burnout. “You need to invest in your team and invest in their mental health, or you will lose – it’s as simple as that. It’s so important to prevent burnout in a small business like a deli or farm shop. “If you lose someone, you’re immediately putting more pressure on yourself and everyone else.” This sentiment is echoed by Lucy Knight of customer experience specialists Insight6, which has recently launched a feedback system to help businesses check in on staff wellbeing. “Mental health is such a big topic at the moment and is really doing the rounds, which is great for people’s awareness, but it’s a challenge for employers and how they manage it,” she says. According to Knight, there are two main reasons we need to be looking after our staff wellbeing better. “Firstly, we should be doing this on a purely human, empathetic level – these people are part of your team, and you have a duty of care to them. And secondly, from a commercial standpoint,

Social: One of the biggest challenges of last year was that feeling of isolation. Even those still going into work could be feeling isolated due to restrictions on proximity. Things like staff socials or nights out may seem like an extra, but really they are essential. Especially when you’re working in a highpressure environment. You need to nurture those connections with and among your team.

Financial: How financially secure are people feeling and is there anything you can do to help? This is often the trickiest area for employers as they will have already set the wage or salary. However, if your staff are feeling financially insecure, you should take the opportunity to consider whether they are being paid enough to live on and do some calculations.

We know that demotivated, disengaged team members, who Lucy Knight, aren’t feeling Insight6 great in themselves, will have a massive effect on business

we know that demotivated, disengaged team members, who aren’t feeling great in themselves, will have a massive effect on your business.” Higher absenteeism, lower productivity and lower profitability are all associated with poor mental health, she says. With so much out of an employer’s control, though, how can business owners truly affect the wellbeing of their staff? Knight says the basis of any approach to wellbeing has to be communication. “You have to ask them to find out what they’re thinking or feeling so you can do something about it, otherwise you’re on a road to nowhere before you even start.” Checking in is key, she says. It’s not enough to ask as you pass by a team member in the corridor. Regular one-toones and what Knight terms ‘temperature checks’ are crucial and making use of online surveys can be an effective tool for staff members who don’t feel comfortable approaching colleagues with their issues. “A lot of people say they ask their team how they’re doing, but there will be a percentage of them that just don’t want to tell you face-to-face. With an online survey, they don’t have to seek you out if they’re embarrassed.” Melville says that this approach is a totally normal thing in business, we just need a shift in thinking to also apply it to mental health.

£45 billion*

The cost of poor mental health to UK employers *Source: Deloitte, Mental health & employers (Jan 2020)

CONTINUED ON PAGE 32

Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

mental health

CASE STUDY

Charlie Wells, Director, The Farm Stratford

Having suffered myself in the past, we’re really hot on mental health at The Farm. Recognising that what they’re going through is something that you’ve been through yourself really helps. On our medical form for new starters has a section on mental health and if anyone ticks ‘yes’ at any point, we send them an email to let them know that they can reach out if they are suffering. It also gives you a heads up that they are at risk.

You don’t have to know every detail of Kate Forbes, Trading Post Farm Shop their lives, just be aware so that if something’s not right, you can tell

We’re also quite a caring workforce – my door is always open – and I think that it’s in my nature to be perceptive about these things. My staff are like my family, I’m with them seven days a week, so I’d be worried if I wasn’t picking up on the signs. There was a situation where I had to seek external advice on something as I was totally out of my depth. Something had happened outside of work to one of my staff, and all of that

emotion was brought in to work – it was easy to spot that they were really not right. After speaking with an HR consultant, I put together a package of available services. But I also reached out to a friend of theirs. It wasn’t the person’s primary contact or anything. It was just someone who knew them who I could confide in because I was so worried about them outside of work. I was very concerned

“As a business owner you need to understand your company, what the potential issues are and how to address them,” he says. “You need to think about mental health in the same way and do the research to understand what issues your staff may be facing – you may think you know these already, but there can be blind spots.” He add that checking in will also increase buy-in from your staff as, by sharing their feelings, they are displaying confidence and trust in you. Forbes agrees, and says it is crucial for her to be aware of how her staff are feeling. In her small team of 13, this simply involves fostering an interest in their lives and an awareness of their character. “You don’t have to know every detail of their life, just be aware so that if something’s not right, you can tell.” For Forbes, this is something that is achieved through creating the right culture among your staff. While she shies away from the cliché that the Trading Post is one big happy family, she says it isn’t a bad analogy. Forbes’ previous experiences working in retail environments with a less caring culture have shaped her ideas of good management. Having worked in delis where she felt unsupported, understaffed and under heavy pressure from the owners, she learned how not to run a business. “That’s the thing with looking after your team. You have to be showing that you’re leading from the front, you’re willing to pitch in and do every single job they are doing. We won’t let our staff down, and that’s what we’ve created – an atmosphere where people know we care. We have a

that I was overstepping a line there, but I knew that it was 100% the right thing to do in the circumstance. I don’t think you can say ‘that’s business, you can’t do that’ when it’s concerning someone’s life. I didn’t think twice, or that I was intruding. I just needed to make sure they were okay. It’s your duty of care as an employer to do that. It can be tough to have that responsibility but you can’t ignore something so serious.

£5

return*

for every £1 invested in employee wellbeing

*Source: Deloitte, Mental health & employers (Jan 2020)

CONTINUED ON PAGE 34

CASE STUDY

Paul Hargreaves, CEO, Cotswold Fayre & Flourish Foodhall

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

It’s appalled me how badly some employers treat their people – it makes no sense. Even if you’re only interested in profit, you should still treat your team well because they’re going to be more productive and make you more money. You get employers who complain when the minimum wage goes up. Why wouldn’t you want to pay your people enough to live on? We do a lot of things at Cotswold Fayre and Flourish to look after our staff: we pay over the

Living Wage, we offer long holidays which increase with service and we run things like wellness sessions. However, the main thing is creating a culture where it’s okay to be yourself at work and you’re enjoying the job. One of the things I’m most proud about in our employee survey is the answers we get to the question, ‘do you enjoy coming to work?’. The lowest score we’ve had on that is 94%. Having that good, open workplace culture

is key to looking after wellbeing. The one challenge we have currently is maintaining that culture, having almost doubled the number of people who work for us by opening Flourish. It’s a work in progress, but there are encouraging signs. As an example, a new member of staff had their first payday with us last week, but prior to that, because he’d been paid a pittance at his last job, he’d run out of money, and he was walking miles to work

because he couldn’t pay his bus fare. A senior team member found out about it and gave him a bike, which I thought was a lovely way of demonstrating a caring culture. With no prompting from anyone else, he knew it was the right thing to do, so he did it. You can say you want the culture a certain way, but if it’s not being demonstrated by the directors and managers, it’s a waste of time. The strongest thing you can do is demonstrate that you mean what you say.

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mental health culture where people can just come and chat to us and have a coffee.” This top-down formation of a workplace culture is also advocated by Knight. She says it comes down to being very clear about your vision for your organisational culture and, as the leader, setting it, defining it, and role modelling it from the top. “If you don’t exemplify what you are selling to your staff, there will be no buy-in at all.” And creating a positive workplace culture is exactly what Iain Hemming has set out to do at Thyme & Tides. He has come up with a six-pillar wellbeing package (see box) which all his permanent staff receive after six months with the business. He says that a more holistic approach to staff wellbeing was needed and by implementing this scheme – “giving something back to the people who give a lot to the business” – he hopes that he will have a happier team. “We have a responsibility. We are a business, we need to make money, but we also have a holistic responsibility for these people as human beings,” he says. But, the cost, according to Hemming, is simply an investment. “The more time I spend on this, the more I realise that it isn’t going to cost me a penny. I’d be a fool to bankrupt myself, but I’ve already noticed the difference it’s making in my team.” And Knight agrees. Happy staff, she says, give better customer experiences, and are more likely to stay with you long-term. Often, she says, retail is seen as a first job, a stopgap or, as Hemming puts it “a last-chance saloon”. Knight points out that this is because of the way people are often treated in their first job in retail – if they are shown that they are not cared for, not looked after, then no wonder they can’t see it as a career to invest in, she says. And, given the current staffing crisis the industry is facing, Hemming hopes his approach will help to change this, and attract and retain the right staff. “We’ve got a perfect storm of Brexit and COVID and it’s making finding good people very difficult” he says. “So, it’s vitally important that we take a look at ourselves under the microscope to see how we can look at a more strategic way to recruit and look after people.” Knight says that, from an employer’s perspective, the word wellbeing scares the hell out of them – it’s a massive topic and they don’t know where to start. But, she says, it’s simpler than they may think. “It’s simply taking an interest in your staff, and, if an issue arises, deciding, ‘is this something I can deal with or is a specialist needed?’.” Employers can’t always help, she says – in which case knowing where to signpost vulnerable team members to is vital, but they can take steps to make their team’s work life better, and if they do that they are investing not only in the

THYME & TIDES’ SIX PILLARS FOR WELLBEING Each of the deli’s permanent team members receives the following benefits six month after joining the business, with some available for all throughout. • Two MHFA England accredited, trained mental health first aiders. • Premium corporate Bupa health care cover – including 24-hour GP access and mental health support.

• Upgraded gut flora food & drink offering – fresh fruit, granolas, yoghurt and salads available in staff fridge. • Improved break room facilities and increased length of breaks – freshly decorated, heated/air con, softer lighting, and no stock stored in the same area. • Six-monthly net profit share – equates to approximately £1000 per annum gross • Weekly team yoga sessions – a private class every tuesday straight after work, normally attended by 10 or more staff.

23%

of employers* DO NOT s u p p o r t employees with mental h e a l t h problems *Source: ACS, Voice of Local Shops polling (Feb 2021)

staff, but the business itself. “It’s going to take some time to change people’s perceptions of a career in retail or hospitality,” says Hemming, “and it will take an industry shift, but making changes like this will make a difference and will thrust us in the right direction.” “We’re a tin pot business in the middle of Stockbridge and if we can do it, then anyone can.”

Insight6 is offering Guild of Fine Food members a free trial of its instant insight system, which can be used for employee and customer feedback. Contact lucy.knight@insight6.com for more information. insight6.com Patrick Melville offers MHFA England-acredited mental health first aid training and workshops through his business Melville Mental Solutions. melville-solutions.com

You need to invest in your team and invest in their mental health, or you will lose – it’s as simple as that. It’s so important to prevent burnout in a small business like a deli or farm shop. Patrick Melville,

Melville Mental Solutions

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

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Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

SHOW PREVIEW

It’s back After nearly two years, the fine food & drink sector’s biggest trade event returns to London’s Olympia in September. FFD’s preview will reveal what’s happening, who’s exhibiting and which new launches to expect at Speciality & Fine Food Fair 2021.

WHILE THE TWO YEARS since the last Speciality & Fine Food Fair took place have been challenging for the industry, this year’s event will hopefully prove to be a watershed moment – and a very positive one at that. That’s certainly the view of organisers Montgomery Group and especially of event manager Philippa Christer. “People are coming to the show to source new products, that’s what they do, but I do feel they will also come in with a different mindset this year,” she tells FFD. “It will very much be about meeting people and networking, too.” “It’s the first national show out of the blocks since the pandemic began and the first time the industry has been together under one roof.” Christer, who was involved in the first Fair back in 1999, expects the levels of positivity to match those at its debut some 22 years ago. But in every way, this year’s event is looking forward. Despite the difficulties posed by COVID-19 and Brexit, the international element of the exhibitor mix will be very present and has even had a bit of a shake-up. Producers from countries like France, Italy and Belgium will still be on show at various pavilions and stands but there will also be a stand showcasing a range of products from Caribbean nations and another contingent of producers from Lebanon. “I think the addition of new countries is a real vote of confidence, not just in the show but in

Visit

specialityandfinefoodfairs.co.uk

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Philippa Christer, event manager

I expect it to be very noisy and I can’t wait to look down from the gallery and see people in the aisles talking to each other Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

SHOW PREVIEW the UK market. People are still interested to meet with UK buyers,” says Christer. “I don’t think Brexit has put people off, in fact, international exhibitors have come back fighting and want to make more of a showcase – it hasn’t pushed business away.” She adds that many international exhibitors have found a way to overcome travel restrictions by employing UK-based representatives. The Fair will also be serving up its usual blend of established suppliers and smaller producers taking their early steps into the industry. “Start-ups are very much the heart of the show,” says Christer. “The Discovery Zone has about 150 companies booked in. They are all companies that have been trading for three years or less. “We have found that over the course of COVID and the lockdowns, a wealth of new companies has come to the forefront. I’d say we’ve got more exhibitors than ever before that have only been trading for six months – brand new companies.” Christer is keen to point out that all of those exhibitors who are more seasoned have also spent the last 18 months adapting and evolving, so every stand should have new products and services for visitors to discover. The organising team from Montgomery Group has also been thinking about meeting the evolving needs of the visiting buyers themselves, with a program of hot topics and award-winners gracing the Food for Thought stage (see full timetable on page 43). There are also some new category-specific features that will help focus the minds and assist buyers on their quest to find new items for their shelves. There are two new trails that map out the vegan & plant-based and the non-food suppliers dotted about the floor and The Drinks Cabinet will run again to facilitate sourcing of both alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks. “When we did our research with buyers about what they want, sustainability is the number one tick box for sourcing,” says Christer. “So, to help buyers and to really shine a light on those kind of companies, we’ve created an area with about 20 companies.” Not only have all these exhibitors been vetted to ensure they have a truly sustainable offering, but the physical space they will inhabit will look very different from the rest of the Fair. The stand

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

build, constructed by PALLITE, features recycled cardboard and the entire area is zero waste, with Montgomery Group having even forgone carpet on this specific plot. Christer tells FFD that it’s important to highlight sustainability but she is adamant that it will become the norm over the next couple of years – both in terms of the exhibitors and how they are presented. For now, the Sustainability Zone offers Montgomery a chance to trial the zero-waste stand build and see what elements it can roll out across future events. It will also be working with charity City Harvest to repurpose food waste generated by the entire event and a new partner – a rewilding charity Creating Nature’s Corridors – to offer visitors the opportunity to buy trees for a new forest plot in Cambridgeshire. Aside from the innovative sustainable stand build trial, there will be other physical changes. The most noticeable will be wider aisles that should make things more comfortable, regardless of what social distancing measures may be in place. “We’re quite mindful that people will still be adjusting to normal spatial awareness,” says Christer. “The Fair will still feel busy and buzzy but everything’s a lot more spread out” Other measures that should reassure those walking around are the addition of handsanitising stations, a more spacious entrance to the hall, recesses within stands that allow visitors to step out of the main aisle and a request that all producers make samples to order. “This last measure should both reduce food waste and deter any of those dreaded doubledippers,” says Christer. The other big change of note for 2021 is the later opening hours on the Monday – with a new extension that runs from 5pm until 8pm. Not only will this give visitors the chance to browse the Fair if they can’t make it during work hours, but they’ll also have the opportunity to watch the Pitch Live session on the stage and network at a special VIP drinks reception (subject to booking) to celebrate the return of Speciality & iIne Food Fair. “I’m looking forward to seeing the people and the personalities at this show,” says Christer. “It’s a very collaborative industry and it’ll be great to see everyone back together. I expect it to be very noisy and I can’t wait to look down from the gallery and see people in the aisles talking to each other.”

GET IN THE ZONES As always, there will be several areas of the Fair dedicated to specific categories or themes. Here’s a rundown of them…

The Drinks Cabinet The Drinks Cabinet area is back again to showcase a wide mix of drinks inspiration that reflects the booming market. Whether buyers are looking to source premium beer, cider, wine, spirits, or even low- and no-alcohol beverages, they will find them here. Myles Cunliffe of the Mixology Group will also be hosting a series of sessions to assist with sourcing what you need. The Sustainability Zone Sustainability is fast becoming one of the most important topics in food & drink, so this year SFFF has created a special area to showcase producers, who are paving the way in sustainable practises. The stand build for this zone will be zero waste, there will be no carpets and a plastic-free shell which will consist of aluminium framing with sustainable wood infills, and a fully recyclable cardboard exhibitor nameboard. The Discovery Zone If start-ups and small producers are your thing, this is the area to visit. None of the exhibitors in this area have been trading for more than three years – and several have been trading less than 12 months. Trend trails: Plant-based and non-food This year, the Fair is introducing two new ‘trend trails’ to guide buyers around specific product types. Vegan & plant-based is one of the hottest categories in food & drink at the moment and this trail will ensure visitors don’t miss any suppliers. Non-food has also become an increasingly important revenue stream for lots of retailers, so the non-food trail should help anyone looking to boost their gifting options or kitchenware offer.

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SHOW PREVIEW

Let’s talk business As well as aisles and aisles of exhibitors, Speciality & Fine Food Fair will also be serving up a wealth of discussion, award-winners and food knowledge. Find out what’s happening on its Food for Thought stage. MONDAY 6TH SEPTEMBER

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1030-1100 Trends unwrapped: Sustainability

1030-1100 Trends Unwrapped: Getting to the root of the plant-based sector Discover products that represent the very latest in this fast-evolving category, with Charles Banks, co-founder of thefoodpeople.

1130-1200 Trends unwrapped: Health & Wellbeing In a post-pandemic world, both sustainability and health & wellbeing is at the core of debates around food. Charles Banks, co-founder of thefoodpeople, looks at the latest products in these spheres. 1230-1300 Conscious consumerism: how to identify and respond to your customers’ needs A Plastic Planet’s Sian Sutherland hosts a discussion about what changes consumers want businesses to make and which make the most impact. With Catherine Conway (Unpackaged) and Stefano Cuomo (Macknade Fine Foods) 1430-1515 “Certified B Corp”: Discover sustainability practices to positively impact your business A stamp of approval that truly resonates with consumers and their confidence in your brand. Learn more about B Corp business certification and hear from those who’ve reaped the benefits, with James Ghaffari, director of growth & product at B Lab UK.

1130-1215 The future of food: learnings from 2021 Thefoodpeople’s Charles Banks teams up with Kelly Dowson of Good Sense Research to reflect on 2021 and ask: What went wrong? What went right? And how can we use these learnings in the future? 1300-1330 A day in the life of an award-winning farm shop Farmer Copleys managing director Heather Copley discusses what it takes to run a successful farm retail business.

1400-1430 Fresh food overhaul: making local partnerships work for you An expert panel as they discuss managing relationships with local producers and building long-lasting and effective supplier networks. Featuring Dan Park (Living Loud / Veg Power) and Domini Hogg (Tried and Supplied). 1500-1530 Cutting edge: the view from the frontline of food & drink innovation Culinary consultant Steve Walpole, Ben O’Brien (founder, Sourced Market) and Dennis Mwakulua (executive chef, Lexington) will discuss some of the industry’s newest solutions. 1600-1700 Speciality & Fine Food Fair Awards Presentation Come and see who will be the crowned champions for Product of the Year, Rising Sustainability Star, Independent Retailer of the Year and Outstanding Industry Champion.

1545-1615 More than just spray-on branding: the pros and cons of own-brand products. A discussion about white label products, which are increasingly appealing to retailers. Featuring Mary Lynch (Beau’s Gelato), Rachael Winter (Daylesford Organic) and Scott Winston (Fortnum & Mason / The Camden Grocer). 1645-1715 British Charcuterie Awards: The Best of 2021 Join Henrietta Green, founder of British Charcuterie Live, as she introduces the medalwinning producers of the British Charcuterie Live Awards 2020/21 1730-1815 Pitch Live Final sponsored by Virgin StartUp Selected, producers will have five minutes to pitch their ‘show exclusive’ products before a Q&A with a panel of judges (including experts from Harrods, Fortnum & Mason and Amazon), before the winner is announced. 1845-1945 Celebratory VIP drinks After two years of waiting, the industry is finally back together to celebrate, network, learn and discover. SFFF organiser Montgomery will mark this occasion with celebratory drinks and a keynote address from Andrew Bird, head of food at Selfridges. Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

Bottlebrush Ferments produce 3-star Great Taste Award winning Kimchi and other amazing fermented foods.

FNK's

The red one

Created by a health coach and a chef, Bottlebrush Ferments produce deliciously healthy foods that add an instant hit of flavour and colour to any dish. Used as a condiment or as a focal point of the meal, it goes just as well in a vegan Buddah bowl as it does on a burger or a cheese board.

GREAT TASTING VEGAN PIES a *P

fre l i o

Cauliflower, Fennel & Pea Tagine Pie*

FNK’s Pies are versatile for pubs, cafes & restaurants. Delivered fresh/frozen allowing your menu's to look current and exciting FNK’s Pies use seasonal local produce with no additives/preservatives/sugar Recipes such as: Saag Aloo with mushroom and dahl Kenyan Curry Cauliflower, fennel & pea tagine

We supply wholesale trade & independents www.bottlebrushferments.com

LOOK FOR US ON STAND

3007

WWW.CUPSMITH.COM

Delight your customers with little Christmas cottages filled with coffee, hot chocolate & tea. For wholesale orders contact george@cupsmith.com

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

SHOW PREVIEW

Celebrating the industry This year’s Fair will see the culmination of the inaugural Speciality & Fine Food Awards, which celebrate the achievements of businesses in four categories. Here are the shortlisted companies and individuals that are in the running to receive awards when the results are announced on the Food for Thought stage on Tuesday 7th September. THE PRODUCT OF THE YEAR AWARD

THE INDEPENDENT RETAILER OF THE YEAR AWARD

By using the berries that are slightly too small, soft or discoloured for the supermarkets, Aurora English Blueberry Ice Wine ensures that every single blueberry grown at Lutton Farm is put to good use. Each bottle is made by pressing 2kg of frozen English blueberries to produce a sweet dessert style wine which is intense, fruity and smooth. blueaurorawine.co.uk

Darts Farm dartsfarm.co.uk

sponsored by the Guild of Fine Food

The Fresh Fish Shop thefreshfishshop.com

Slate Cheese slatecheese.co.uk

Meon Valley Butchers meonvalley butchers.co.uk

RISING SUSTAINABILITY STAR sponsored by Creating Nature’s Corridors

French cornichon producer Maison Marc is bringing a pickle caviar to the table. The tangy, aromatic pickle is made from gherkins that are grown, handpicked and bottled by Maison Marc in Burgundy, without any herbicides, pesticides, or preservatives. maisonmarc.fr The Natural Bee Company will use the Speciality & Fine Food Fair as the international launch-pad for a new creamy spread based on Chilean honey, cashew nuts and the native South American fruit, lucuma. It describes the spread as “sweet and healthy” with “exotic and natural flavours”. naturalbee.cl

• Cilqwenyn Bee Farm • Ruby Harlow – Curd & Cure • Sole of Discretion CIC

OUTSTANDING INDUSTRY CHAMPION sponsored by Food From England • Steve Reid, owner, Friars Farm • Daniel Humphrey, founder, Langley Foods • Freda Yuan, head of coffee, Origin Coffee Roasters

Voting for the shortlisted finalists is now open. Visit specialityandfine foodfairs.co.uk/visit/ speciality-fine-foodfair-awards2021

Rora Dairy produces small-batch organic milk and live-culture yogurts on its family farm in Aberdeenshire. Locally sourced fruit and honey feature in the range, which includes Blueberry, Raspberry, Honey, Fudge and Traditional Greek-style varieties. roradairy.co.uk Mama Dolce, the brainchild of lawyer and allergy sufferer Jane Visram, is a newcomer to the free-from ice cream space. All six of its flavours are free from dairy, nuts, eggs, soya, wheat and gluten and made using sustainably sourced natural ingredients. mamadolce. co.uk

Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

WE'LL BE AT THE

VISIT US AT STAND 1250

New!

Delicious chickpea crisps

VEGAN

POPPED NOT FRIED

GLUTEN FREE

www.peapops.co.uk hello@peapops.co.uk * Cheddar & Onion (vegetarian)

thy never ta heal st

20% PROTEIN

g so ed

ood

AWARD-WINNING COOKING SAUCES

Ten gourmet sauces you can choose from and hundreds of herbs & spices for all your cooking needs info@seasonedpioneers.co.uk 0151 343 1122 www.seasonedpioneers.com 46

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

SHOW PREVIEW New for the show...

WHAT’S

ON SHOW

Victor Tardieu has resurrected a family recipe for a Trinidadian pepper sauce to accompany meats, fish and vegetables, and is launching it in three different strengths: Seriously Hot, Medium Hot and Mild. Marketed under the Authentic Products brand, the sauce is made from Scotch Bonnet peppers, herbs and spices, which are blended rather than cooked to bring out the natural flavour of the ingredients. vtardieu@btinternet.com

FOR

2021

The Fresh Fish Shop is launching a new range of Loch Duart smoked salmon that is completely traceable from farm to fork. The fish is sourced from an RSPCA approved farm where fish swim and shoal freely. Loch Duart also holds the French ‘Label Rouge’ and has been accredited by Friend of the Sea. The salmon comes in various retail pack sizes, ranging from 100g to 1kg. thefreshfishshop.com

# &Poca 2847 1683 Chocolate Place 1121 5th Season 2934

Aagrah foods 1128 Agrain 1910 Agro’novae 1730f Agua De Madre 2872 Ahura Food 3011 AJ Chocolate House 2865 Ananda’s Vegan Marshmallows & Waggon Wheels 1201 Anis De Flavigny 1830f Appetite Me 2830 Artisan Food Club 2707 Atkins and Potts 2228 Authentic Pepper Sauce 2816

Banhoek Chilli Oil Company (UK) 2930 Barbadillo 1420a Barfi Bites 2983 BasketBasket 808 Beau’s Ice Cream 2866

Beeble Drinks 2843 Bella Chocolate 2860 Belvoir Farm Drinks 1238 Ben’s Pretzels 2707 be-oom 2985 Berczy Hard Seltzer 1347 Besos de Oro 1243 Beyond Living 2711 Bipia 1730e Birkentree - Whisky’s Natural Companion 1132 3052 Blackthorn Salt Blackwoods Cheese Company 3027 Blue Aurora English Blueberry Wine 2875 BNutty Peanut Butter 2812 Boddington’s Berries 2020c Bodega de Forlong 1420g Bodegas Luis Pérez 1420f Bond Street Distillery 1530 Boozy Boocha 2810 Bottlebrush Ferments 2994 Bottleshot 2862 Bplasticfree 2974 British Charcuterie Live 2124 Brixton Gin 1144 Brown Bag Crisps 2709 Bumble Wrap 2880 Business France 1730, 1830 Butler & Brewer Tonic Enhancers 2975 ByRuby 3026

Uncle Ernie’s Rum Co is building on the success of its Rum Punch with the launch of a Rum Cocktail at the Speciality & Fine Foods Fair. A 5% ABV blend of Caribbean rum, natural fruit flavours and spices, the beverage comes in a slimline 250ml can (wholesale price £14.99 per case of 12). Look out for free samples of the cocktail and punch in your VIP bags. uncleerniesrumco.com Launching this September, The Wild Hare Group’s Ben & Poppy ready-meal range is aimed at children aged between four and 10 years old. Featuring recipes such as Butternut Squash Curry, Cheesy Roasted Broccoli & Cauliflower and Slow Braised Beef, the range combines child-friendly portions and presentation with an emphasis on animal welfare, sustainability and nutritional credentials. The range will be distributed by The Cress Co. thewildharegroup.co.uk

Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

SHOW PREVIEW New for the show… …BOOZY BOOCHA Everyone will have heard of kombucha, but what about hard kombucha, the craze that is taking the US by storm? Boozy Boocha has brought this trend to the UK, with a 4% ABV kombucha-vodka infusion. This probiotic sparkler for ‘healthy hedonists’ is pitched as an alternative to calorific, sugary, alcoholbased options. There are two varieties: Berry Mischievous and Cheeky Pineapple. boozyboocha.co.uk

C Cakesmiths 1811 Cantizano Salsas 1420c Capreolus Fine Foods 2020f Cardo Sra Do Monte 3014 Caviar and Cocktails 2878 Cedar Baklawa 3016 Celebrate What You Eat 1630a Charbonneaux Brabant 1830d Chase Distillery 1716 Cheese Nibbles/ Chilton Liqueurs 3028 Chilli No. 5 2822 ChimiLove 2707 Cider Is Wine Ltd 1231 City Harvest 3024 Clusius Tulip Vodka 1630f CMB Foods 2120b COOK 1614 Cool Chile Co 3033 Coren Selecta 1610 Cotswold Fayre 3059 Cupsmith 3022

Dark Woods Coffee Days Brewing De Aardappelhoeve

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

1223 1228 2030a

Delicario - Fine Artisan Food 1728 Delicioso: the Spanish food company 1814 Dell’Ugo 1410 Denmark 1910 DeRosier Chocolates 3032 Devon Distillery 926 Didden 1940c Dingley Dell Cured 2124 Diverse Fine Food 2110 Do Goodly Dips 2236 Dog and Spoon Distillery 3038 Domori & Prestat 1748 Downton Distillery 834 Dr Honey 2873 Drink it fresh 1940a Drive me nuts 1840b DTM Print 3035 Dylan’s 1920

Easy Jose Coffee 3049 EDS 1840a Embassy of the Netherlands 1630 Emma Basic 2016 English Tea Shop 1311 EOS Nutrisolutions 3008 EPRONTO Artisanal Ragu 2990 Erhvervshus Sydjylland 1910

THE DRINKS BAKERY

WHERE GREAT DRINKS MEET THEIR MATCH THEDRINKSBAKERY.COM • @THEDRINKSBAKERY

NEW GIFT SET 46

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

LATUAPASTA.COM

Stand 2983 at SFFF

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

SHOW PREVIEW

F Fair Trade Lebanon 1340, 1440 FIAB 1420 FireGrain Freekeh 2703 Firetree Chocolate 1900 Fish and Snack EU 2234 Flanders Investment & Trade 1930, 2030 FNK Vegan Pies 3007 Forest Feast 1820 Franjuba 1420e Freedown Food 2232 Freestar 1513 Fresh Eric’s Cake Co 2220 From Dorset With Love 2707 Fudge Kitchen 820 FUL Foods 1630c Fungtn 922 Furniss Foods 2020a

Gasm Drinks 1234 Gelatorino 1620 Godminster 2020d GoJute International 1414 Goodtill by SumUp 1456 Grapoila 1520 Greenk 1730b

Greenypeeps 3050 Grey Poupon 3018 Guild of Fine Food 2931 Gulius – Mediterranean Select 1400 Gündoğdu 1710 Gusto Organic 1133 H

Hamilton Dessert Co. 2977 Hammond’s Wild Meat Snacks 2848 Harris & James Chocolate 2982 Harrogate Tipple 1130 Hawkhead Whisky Smoked 2988 Hawkshead Relish Company 1700 Hellbent 3005 Henley Bridge 1723 Highland Boundary Distillery 2950 Highland Liquor Company 930 Hillfarm Oils 2229 Hobros Limited 2842 Honeyrose / Kent & Fraser 810 Hoogly Tea 812 hub.brussels 1840 hub.brussels 1940 Huerta de Albalá 1420h

New for the show… …THE FINE CHEESE CO The Fine Cheese Co is launching its first gluten-free Toast for Cheese at the show. The twice-baked, biscotti-like toasts are made from natural ingredients such as gluten-free cereals, buttermilk and extra virgin olive oil, and studded with cherries, almonds and linseeds. They are said to be the ideal foil for blue cheeses such as Fourme d’Ambert, Stilton and Gorgonzola Dolce. finecheese.co.uk

Ian Macleod Distillers

932

Italian Larder Essentials

Introducing two new additions to our best in class organic pasta and pasta sauces ranges Available now

ORGANIC VEGAN

MELANZANE SAUCE

ORGANIC VEGAN

CALAMARATA PASTA

Our new additional to our classic pasta sauces range is a classic sauce for Sicilian pasta alla norma, made with local aubergine.

Made using premium high density, 100% Tuscan organic durum wheat, our new cut is calamarata, one of the most loved Neapolitan pasta cuts.

The aubergine absorbs all the delicious flavours of sweet Italian grown tomatoes, herbs and award winning Sicilian extra virgin olive oil.

These large Maccheroni are most often used in fish and seafood pasta dishes although they also work excellent with vegetarian pasta dishes.

Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

SHOW PREVIEW New for the show… …LAZYDOG Inspired by the sloe gin trend, Lazydog is making rum from sloes picked within a couple of miles of its Leicestershire distillery, and there’s nothing lazy about the way it is made. The yeast is isolated from the sloe berries and used to distill the rum from scratch. The berries are then steeped in the rum to draw out their flavour and colour. Nothing artificial is added. lazydogdistillery.co.uk

Icilda’s Vegan Kitchen Il Fattore Indi Drinks Inno Foods Inspired Vegan International Trade Centre (ITC) Invest NI Island Bakery It’s Only Plant Based

2978 2938 1420d 2828 2230 1220 1631 910 1631

James White Drinks Jeyel’s Cooking Sauces Jitterbug Life Joe & Seph’s Gourmet Popcorn Join the Pipe Joli JOM Vegan & Organic Candy JOMARA Joypots

1210 2904 816 1828 1630e 1355 2841 1111 2813

Kagoshima Organic Farmers Assoc. Katie’s Nuttery KAYTEA Keats Chocolatier KellyBronze Turkeys Kingsdown Water

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

2987 2222 2996 1725 1515 2713

New for the show… …PLANTESLAGTERNE With plant-based alternatives to animal proteins in high demand, Copenhagen startup Planteslagterne is sure to generate lots of interest in its Dild-dellen (dill cakes). These organic, gluten-free “non-fish cakes” are made from whole ingredients such as cauliflower and cannellini beans, and are free from soy, palm oil, binders and other additives. planteslagterne.dk

We are a family business creating small batch artisanal gin, vodka, rum and whisky liqueurs. Winning 25 awards in the first half of 2021 is testament to our quality. All our products are Vegan, Gluten Free and allergy free. The intensity and creativity of flavours is second to none. Rest assured it’s not just the contents that are special. We pride ourselves on crafting offerings that are beautifully presented and packaged. Our enamel printed bottles, our satin lined gift boxes, the branded ribbons tied with a bow. We stand out on a shelf. Competitively priced and mixed case ordering. What’s not to love.

Sample Kits Available enquiries to: hugh@riversidespirits.co.uk www.riversidespirits.co.uk

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

Our award-winning drinks are made from gently pressed organic and wild ingredients. We never use artificial sweeteners, additives or concentrates. We simply blend naturally ripe organic fruit with Dartmoor spring water, drawn from a source on the farm where we make our drinks. Luscombe. A simple, more fruitful philosophy.

By appointment to HRH Prince of Wales Soft Drinks Producer Luscombe Drinks Devon, England

Speciality South-American Alfajores biscuits, proudly handcrafted in the UK Gluten-Free / Vegetarian Clean label Eco-friendly packaging

Distinctive gifting idea Excellent with coffee/tea Afternoon Tea with a twist

WE’RE NOT MACARONS, WE’RE BETTER!

www.margotandmontanez.com

D AN 0 T 6 S

A world of glass looked after locally

Suppliers of quality glass jars, bottles and closures

Join u s on stand 936

A PERFECT RANGE OF INCREDIBLE FLAVOURS FOR EVERYONE MAKING YOUR SHELVES COME ALIVE We are innovative and approachable, offering: Gluten Free products | Vegan Mayos | Gift boxes Find us on stand 2992 T: 01584 876 694 | M: 07989 440 156 | sales@what-a-pickle.com www.what-a-pickle.com

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

Telephone: + 44 (0) 1472 340005 Email: sales@pattesonsglass.co.uk Website: pattesonsglass.co.uk

SHOW PREVIEW New for the show… …FELTHAM’S FARM Feltham’s Farm will be bringing Latin vibes to the show with its Spanish style Queso Fresco, a citrusy, subtly salty fresh cheese that is made in Somerset from organic cows’ milk. Queso Fresco cheeses are rarely imported due to their short shelf life, so La Fresca Margarita gives British consumers an authentic experience without having to travel abroad. felthamsfarm.com

Kiss of Wine Kit’s Chutney Kyon Drinks

1333 2900 2962

La Credenza La Part Des Anges La Plantation - Fair Spices Producer La Tua Pasta Labelnet Lauden Chocolate Lava Spirits Co Lazydog Distillery Lecale Harvest Les Delices D’alpage Linkshelving Listers Crisps Lodge Farm Kitchen London Nootropics Lucky Saint - 0.5% Superior Unfiltered Lager Luker Chocolate Luscombe Drinks LUXLO Spirits

2034 1830a 2821 1100 2244 2719 1230 2952 2808 1730c 1501 2814 1800 2999 1235 1810 1628 822

Mada Mada Pralinés Made For Drinks Maison Georges Larnicol

3006 2958 1730d

New for the show… …COOKS & CO Lotus Root (RRP £2.75 for 400g) is the latest addition to Cooks&Co’s growing range of plant-based meat substitutes, following the success of Young Green Jackfruit and Banana Blossom. Lotus Root features the stem of the lotus plant, which has a mild sweet nutty flavour and crunchy texture that makes it a perfect ingredient in stir fries and curries. cooksandco.co.uk

Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

Manufacturers of depositors & filling machines for the food production industry

Tel: 01282 440040 Email: info@riggsautopack.co.uk www.riggsautopack.co.uk

W: www.keenscheddar.co.uk T: 01963 32286

RETAIL SOLUTIONS EXCELLENCE

Discover more at sodiaal.co.uk or email info@sodiaal.co.uk 56

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

SHOW PREVIEW Maison Marc Mama Dolce Manchester Gin Margot & Montañez Marley Coffee Marston Foods Mellona Meurisse Chocolate Mieles Anta Mixology School Mols Organic MOMO Kombucha Moulin De La Veyssiere Mr Pastry Ltd

Natural Disposable Straws Nc’nean Distillery NEED Vegan Ice Cream New English Teas New York Delhi Noble House Prepared Northern Greens Nuisance Drinks NutCellars Nutcessity Nuttin’ But

Organic chutneys (no added sugar)

1830e 2901 1140 2960 1310a 3013 3025 1930c 1112 838 1910 2849 1730g 2979

3054 3055 2817 1119 814 1923 1910 836 3029 2867 1631

New for the show…

Offset Print & Packaging Oh My Gum! Old Bakery Gin Old Rectory Preserves Olivemare Ltd Opus Live Well Products OR-GANIC Organico Realfoods OTC Beverages Other Foods Ouse Valley Foods with Duff’s Dining Ozerlat

1750 2864 2871 3030 920 1701 2989 1534 1310h 1213 3021 2861

Packaging Mode Paisley Drinks Co Pa’lais (Future Foods) PALLITE® Pattesons Glass Paz Nuts Pea Pops Pegi Pentire Drinks perfectseason Pinkster Gin Pipaillon

1110 2981 1940b 1451 936 2707 1250 1940d 1247 1910 1241 1840d

Organic hummus

…CAPREOLUS Dorset producer Capreolus took advantage of lockdown as an opportunity to develop three new charcuterie products. Truffled Salami is based on the classic saucisson sec but with the addition of black truffle. Meanwhile, Venison Chorizo and Venison & Green Peppercorn Salami both combine free-range pork with local wild venison from Sika Deer living on the Isle of Purbeck for a richer flavour. capreolusfinefoods.co.uk

Organic tahini spreads

GOLDEN VIRGIN®

organic

NEW arrivals are here! Organic ketchups (no added sugar)

Organic Balsamic vinegar

Organic Balsamic glazes (no added sugar)

A family-run company offers unique organic products made with passion, love, traditional ways with respect for the environment At GOLDEN VIRGIN® organic foods, we produce sustainable and unique organic foods for EVERYONE. We have promised ourselves that the products we provide to our family and yours will have the following characteristics so that we can continue to produce high quality and healthy food. • ORGANIC • 100% TRACEABILITY • GMO FREE • ETHICAL • PALM OIL FREE • PLANT BASED • HEALTHY NATURAL INGREDIENT

Organic spoon sweets (no added sugar)

Organic Kalamata olives Organic Green Chalkidiki olives

Organic extra virgin olive oil

+44 (0) 203 693 4487 info@goldenvirginfoods.com www.goldenvirginfoods.com Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

Visit us at stand 2803

Arabian Specialities

Taste the flavours of the Philippines: More versatile than you can imagine Ready for the next emerging flavour from Asia?

Black Bean Chilli Oil

Explore it all on Stand 1253

For wholesale prices, email sales@ronibkitchen.co.uk

Winner of 68 Great Taste Awards in 15 years www.terra-rossa.com

Kalamansi Marmalade

+44 (0)20 8661 9695

Award Winning Hand Roasted Coffee from

£13.00

www.RoniBkitchen.co.uk

Ethiopian Yirgacheffe

Tobacco Rd Blend

Brazilian Sul De Minas

American Diner Blend

Papua New Guinea Mile High

Mexican La LaJa Decaf

per kg

(including delivery) White label and wholesale enquiries welcome

Winner of 12 Great Taste Awards 47 degrees coffee offer trade customers outstanding coffee at great value prices.

Unit 24 | Bailey Brook Business Park | NG16 4BE

T: 07508 701919 | E: aidy@47degreescoffee.com | www.47degreescoffee.com

FEATURED IN THE TIMES TOP 50 PRODUCTS 2020 58

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

SHOW PREVIEW New for the show… …PEA POPS Meeting demand for more nutritious snacks is chickpea crisp brand Pea Pops. Popped rather than fried for lower fat content, Pea Pops are also 20% plant protein and tick the glutenfree, vegan and ‘high in fibre’ boxes. They are available in Smoky BBQ, Chilli & Lime and Cheddar & Onion flavours and come in two pack sizes: single serve 23g and 80g sharing bag. peapops.co.uk

Popcorn Kitchen Posh Cow Pothecary Gin & New Forest Tonic Potts PR Dutch Drinks PRISMAR Providence Deli / Notorious Nooch Puckett’s Pickles Purete

2811 2882 1412 1921 1630b 1930b 1901 2707 2806

Q-Chocolate Querubi French Extra Virgin Olive Oil

1930a 918

Red Tractor Revisan Riverside Spirits Rochester Drinks Rømer Vegan RoniB’s Kitchen Roqberry Rora Dairy Rosemullion Distillery Roucadil Rounton Coffee

2120 1420b 1232 1640 1910 2803 2920 3015 2912a 1830c 2723

Q R

New for the show… …ISLAND BAKERY After 20 years of baking sweet biscuits, Island Bakery has made its first foray into the savoury space with two ranges: oatcakes and Isle of Mull Cheese Biscuits. Available in Original, Black Pepper and Three Seed varieties, the organic oatcakes blend oatmeal and jumbo oats with extra virgin olive oil; while the allbutter Cheese Biscuits use Isle of Mull Cheese from the family’s farm. islandbakery.scot

NITRO COLD BREW TEA! READY TO DRINK

2 CALORIES PER CAN

0% ADDED SUGAR

ALL NATURAL

0% ARTIFICIAL FLAVOURS

VEGAN FRIENDLY

ANTIOXIDANTS

0% CAFFEINE

LOW ACIDITY

Ready to drink, Creamy, Velvety and refreshing tea. www.novustea.co.uk Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

100%

SOMERSET

The great little fryer British beef dripping

sales@somersetspirit.com www.somersetspirit.com 07702 223821 Old Army Camp Distillery, Camp Road, Castle Cary, Somerset BA7 7JB

A family business established in 1963 and specialising in the production of beef dripping. We use only premium grade beef suet.

Our product requires craftmanship in which temperature, time & careful attention play a crucial role. We will not compromise on quality for the sake of price. These are the things that differentiate our product.

66 s’ LA er e ail od et on rc er % te iv 28 en lus of rs se xc nt rde 5 ea e u o £4 Pl an sco all er i r ov fo d

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

www.ndwalsh.co.uk

SHOW PREVIEW

New for the show…

Sapling Vodka 3048 Scarlett & Mustard 2707 Seggiano - Peregrine Trading 1720 Selected Gourmet Group 1910 Sesame Kingdom 2851 Shipton Mill 3023 Shuro Shirin 3003 Simpleas Snacks 2957 Simply Shirley’s 2845 Slàinte Sauces 2877 Societe Cooperative Agricole De La Laiterie De Pamplie 1730a Source of the Earth 2708 SPRY Craft Drinks 2998 Squished 3046 Sublime Flavoured Butter 2840 SugarSin 1315 SUN365 2826 Superbon 1840c Swaadish Curry Sauces 2913 Sweet Cakey Thing 2881 Sweetland London 1436, 3009 SWISH 1911 Swoon Gelato 1850

…EPRONTO Cateritaly, a Scottish producer of authentic Italian products, is branching out beyond its core ragu offer to launch a meatball ‘meal in a jar’ under its EPRONTO label. Company owner and chef Francesca Cingano devised the recipe for the ready-to-eat meatballs, which are handmade from fresh ingredients and locally sourced meat, representing a wholesome alternative to mass produced ready-meals. epronto.co.uk

New for the show… …SEGGIANO A ten-strong range of organic, single estate, semi-fresh herbs, chocolate panettone, organic taralli and an aubergine pasta sauce are among the new additions to Seggiano’s collection. The panettone is made to a vegan recipe that uses extra virgin olive oil and sunripened tomatoes rather than sugar; whilst the herbs are preserved in rock salt to deliver the intensity of fresh herbs. seggiano.com

T & M Artisan Chocolates Taste of the West

Little bag.

2805 2912, 2020

Lots of cake.

For homemade cakes just add water, a little oil and your imagination. For great ideas why not join the Wright’s Home Baking Club Or visit our website www.wrightsﬂour.co.uk

G R Wright & Sons Ltd. Ponders End Mills Enﬁeld Middlesex EN3 4TG

Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

SHOW PREVIEW New for the show… …DELICARIO Delicario has tracked down a number of delicacies from across Europe to add to its collection. These include Zibabbo Grape Jam from the Sicilian island of Pantelleria, Rose Petal Preserve made from organic miniature De la Rosa flowers that grow on the coast of southern Spain, Anchovy & Onion Savoury Biscuits from Italian bakery Dolci di Giotto, and Rosemary Crusted Goats Cheese from Teruel in Spain. b2b.delicario.com

Terra Rossa Terre D’oc The Chocolate Gift Co. The Commonwealth Tea Company The Drinks Bakery The Fine Cheese Co. The Fine Confectionery Company The Fresh Fish Shop The Happy Guts’ Company The Persian Pantry The Ribble Valley Gin Co The Slow Vinegar Company The Spice Pioneer The Truckle & Virtual Cheese Awards The Urban Fermentary The Wild Hare partners Reewild The Wooden Spoon Preserving Co The Woodland Trust The Yorkshire Pasta Company The Yorkshire Pudding Pie Company Thompson’s Tea Tingay’s Tom Savano Cocktails Tregothnan/ R-Chi Trekco - Troy Raw Honeys Trufo Twelve Below Two Days Two Farmers

1253 1830b 2800 2815 2955 1922 1500 2226 2902 1206 2907 2869 3036 1301 2905 3057 2721 3063 2818 1227 1631 1136 1335 1745 2915 2856 1150 2876 3062

All listings correct at time of going to press

U Uncle Ernie’s Rum Punch Universal Marketing

1142 1430

Valentian Vermouth Valsana @ CIBO Van Strien Verjuice Vicky’s Kitchen Villa Andina

828 1740 1630d 2922 2725 2870

Wax Wrap What A Pickle! Wicked & Wonderful Chocolatier Wignac Cider Wild & Game Willy’s ACV Wyndhams - Bajan Coffee Roasters

3066 2992 2819 832 2954 2010 2972

Yum Yum Sushi Desserts

2972

Zenon Hemp Farm ZooteeK, from the Basque Country

2980 2715

Y Z

Winner of 25 awards at Great Taste

Snowy Flakes

MULTI AWARD-WINNING ARTISAN CHARCUTERIE MADE WITH PASSION IN CORNWALL WHOLESALE **** RETAIL **** FOODSERVICE

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Jasmine Green Tea Pearls

Choi Time, Award Winning Chinese speciality teas that unfurl and blossom in your cup. Hailed as “the Dom Perignon of the tea world” by the Sunday Times Style Magazine.

www.delifarmcharcuterie.co.uk dfc@delifarmcharcuterie.co.uk Phone: 0845 0533269 Email: wholesale@choitime.com Visit: www.choitime.co.uk | Facebook/ChoiTimeTeas 62

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

Your customers want to reduce plastic and reduce food waste. Stock our Wraps and NEW Bumble Bags and showcase them in brand new packaging.

Keep food fresher for longer, with no plastic in sight. Email today for your FREE SAMPLES or to discuss custom branding options.

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bumble_wrap Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

MADE BY ME ON OUR ANGUS FARM

Available from Sarah Gray’s Direct info@sarahgrays.co.uk or through our wholesaler The Cress Co 0845 643 1330

RASPBERRY JAM “A lovely set and a deep pink colour. An absolute blast of raspberries hits the nose and then explodes on the tongue. Lots of seeds add texture and are perfectly distributed within the jam, which we find irresistible. We felt we could not have got any closer to the raspberries if we had rolled in the patch ourselves.” A Great Taste Judge

CHILLI JAM “Vibrant, sticky chilli jam with aroma from both the peppers and chillis. The sweetness of roasted peppers matches the spicy warmth of chillis. Well judged and well made.” A Great Taste Judge

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August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

Natural. Simple. Hearty. Tasty. by Kandy Kitchen Creations b 07814 824180 | kandykitchencreations@gmail.com www.kandykitchencreations.co.uk

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Our award-winning flour is produced from the finest ancient grains which are sustainably grown in the beautiful British countryside. Our entire range carry the highly sought after Great Taste 2 and 3 star awards, in recognition of outstanding quality and flavour. Available in 1kg and 20kg bags. Minimum order 2 boxes of 10 × 1 kg bags. No delivery charges. Call or email today for a trade price list Sustainably farmed

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August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

FOCUS ON

foodservice

SHOW PREVIEW

FROM THE DELI KITCHEN

Don’t skip lunch!

SIMPLE RECIPES TO BOOST YOUR MARGINS

QUICK CHEESECAKE No gelatine? No worries. This cheesecake takes a couple of hours in the fridge and the flavour is just as good as any other version of this coffee shop staple. Serves: 6-8 Prep: 20 minutes Cook: 5 minutes, plus setting time in the fridge

Ingredients: For the base: 150g digestives, crushed 75g butter, melted For the filling: 500g cream cheese 1 tin condensed milk Juice of 1 lemon 1tbsp vanilla extract Seasonal fruits, to serve

Michael Lane

Method: Grease a 20cm spring form cake tin or fluted tart tin.

Mix together the crushed biscuits and melted butter. Press into the tin with the back of a spoon, smoothing over to create a level base. Place in the fridge for the butter to set. In a bowl, whisk the cream cheese and condensed milk together. Stir in the lemon and vanilla. Pour this filling over the base and either smooth over or leave in dollops for a bit of texture. Allow to chill in the fridge for at least 2 hours but preferably overnight. Serve slices with seasonal fruits.

Visitor registrations are now open for Lunch!, the trade show for the food-to-go industry set to be held at ExCel, London on 23rd and 24th September 2021. The event will run alongside two other shows – Casual Dining and Commercial Kitchen – to create what the organisers have called a “comprehensive hospitality supershow”. “There’s no denying it’s been a tough year for everyone in the hospitality industry,” said the shows’ event director, Chris Brazier. “We’re incredibly excited to be preparing to welcome our visitors back in person this autumn for countless opportunities for business and innovation.” Lunch! has more than 400 exhibitors confirmed, including Around Noon, Delice de France, Deli Lites, Hippeas, Innocent, Magrini, NOBL, Proper, Rapid Action Packaging, Rombouts, Soho Sandwich Co., UCC Coffee and Wholegood. In addition, Lunch! also features three stages hosting educational talks and discussions from leading industry figures. The organisers have confirmed exclusive interviews with first-time Lunch! speakers Alasdair Murdoch, CEO of Burger King; Spencer Craig, CEO & co-founder of Pure; and Neil Lake, MD of Costa Coffee. The line-up also features input from industry associations including Kate Nicholls, Chief Executive of UKHospitality; and two sessions with Jim Winship, Director of The British Sandwich & Food to Go Association Find out more and book free visitor tickets at lunchshow.co.uk

Recipe by Jules Mercer for Fine Food Digest Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

DELICIOUS, LOOSE FROZEN FOOD

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ﬁeld-fare.com 70

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

The Garlic Farm

Living the dream with living wage The Garlic Farm’s director Barnes Edwards thinks it is small producers’ core values that have won them many admirers recently. And he asks: what defines a good business? FOR THOSE INVOLVED in speciality food, there’s either been a need to do things differently, keep doing a different amount of the same thing, or stop, then start, then stop and then start again. I suspect many businesses reading this will have been juggling all three of these scenarios. There has been coverage of the changes in consumer behaviour and market share –and conjecture about which of these shifts will be permanent. Delivering quality produce from principled brands is part of the day job for this sector and the hope is that these businesses will hold on to customers who have dipped their toes into the service offered by speciality food & drink retail. It’s also possible that those who would normally grab a supermarket sandwich to eat at the office have enjoyed friendly table service of something freshly prepared at their local deli or café. Recent changes highlight the common themes and cornerstones of this sector: product, people, experience. Maybe the newfound appeal of our sector has been driven not by pivots but by our collective and constant faith in what we know to be good.

“Our team, our produce, and the experience we all deliver to our customers has always been how we are measured,” says Barnes Edwards, director at The Garlic Farm. “The changes that have led some new customers to our doors have made these core values of the farm even more visible. We’re just very glad to still be serving garlic and smiling – most of the time.” He adds: “In responding to the practical and commercial implications of lockdowns, we’ve looked again at what differentiates the business and the sector we’re in. There’s a lot to be proud of on both fronts. Food & drink production, retailing and hospitality service are very, very old trades. Our hunch is that when product quality and customer experience are at the heart of the ethos and operation, good businesses within this category will continue to thrive.” Rather than ponder how the speciality sector will retain market share postpandemic, Edwards has been preoccupied with what constitutes a “good” business “It’s

one that is not only willing but able to keep doing good,” he says. “The word sustainable has a broad interpretation but the first of these is continuity. Keeping going is key. But it’s people who make or deliver a product or service, so it makes sense that the conditions around these people will define the quality. Without good people generating good quality, a business doesn’t have a bedrock.” Edwards feels that if a business can contribute to the wellbeing of its people – as well as regenerate the resources that deliver its products (ie garlic) – and keep doing this, then it’s a good business. How does the business translate this theory into action? One example at The Garlic Farm is its status as an accredited Living Wage employer. “The majority of FTSE 100 companies are yet to commit to this,” says Edwards. “So it is a meaningful step for a diversified farm – with food production, hospitality and fulfilment – to guarantee a wage that meets everyday needs (as a baseline).”

www.thegarlicfarm.co.uk 01983 865 378 wholesale@thegarlicfarm.co.uk Our full range is also available with Cotswold Fayre Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

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Multi-Award-Winning Free Range Eggs Ethically Produced Husband and wife team from County Fermanagh in Northern Ireland, producing free range eggs since 2002 and launched the Cavanagh brand in 2012 to satisfy consumer demand for a quality artisan free range egg ethically produced. We grade and pack multi-award-winning free range eggs from 75,000 birds in 7 flocks across 4 separate sites. Our flocks and Packing Centre are all British Lion Accredited and are rotated to ensure a constant supply of the various sizes all year round for foodservice and retail. Awards include Great Taste, Blas na hEireann, Irish Quality Food Awards, Family Business of the Year 2018, Poultry Farmer of the Year 2017 and 2018, Delicious Produce Award Winner 2018 and Made in Northern Ireland Food and Drink Producer of the Year 2018.

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For enquiries email eileen@cavanagheggs.com www.awardwinningeggs.com 74

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

SHELF TALK Baking and breakfast-at-home trends spark increase in maple syrup sales By Tom Dale

stocking up on the product more regularly. A spokesperson from Maple from Canada said: “Increased time at home has created more opportunities to use maple syrup as a breakfast topping, in baking and for a range of other uses.” The research revealed that those who had increased their usage of maple syrup during lockdown were much more likely to have spent more time cooking and baking at home. While the two thirds of people eating breakfast at home more regularly since the start of the coronavirus pandemic has increased the available market for those using the syrup as a breakfast topper, said to have grown by 13%. With increasing numbers of consumers cutting down refined sugar in their diets – up to two thirds according to some research – maple syrup’s credentials as a natural sweetener have won over the British market. 42% of those who increased their usage said they did so because they feel it is a healthier alternative to sugar. Maple from Canada UK, the consumers arm of Quebec Maple Syrup Producers. Quebec supplies 72% of the world’s maple syrup and is home to more than 11,300 maple syrup producers.

Canadian maple syrup consumption has risen dramatically during the pandemic, driven by changes to lifestyle at breakfast and an increase in home baking, according to the latest figures from Maple from Canada UK. UK consumers are guzzling down 55% more Canadian maple syrup (year-on-year) than before the pandemic and, according to a survey of British consumers, existing customers are

maplefromcanada.co.uk

WHAT’S NEW Golden Virgin has launched a new range of three organic balsamic glazes: Chili, Pomegranate and Fig. Produced in Kalamata in south-west Greece from organically grown ingredients, the range of glazes can be used on salads, desserts, meat dishes, or as a garnish. Each 250ml bottle has an RRP of £5.95 (trade, £2.97) with a 24-month shelf life. goldenvirginfoods.com Devon’s Wicked Wolf has branched out from producing gins with the launch of Exmoor Vodka. A premium wheat grain spirit, it is filtered through activated coconut charcoal to remove impurities and double-distilled with Sicilian lemons to add a citrus flavour. wickedwolfgin.com Isle of Mull’s Island Bakery is launching a new brand, Sweet FA Gluten Free. The new coeliac-friendly label’s debut range of four varieties of biscuits that are glutenfree, organic and suitable for vegans is launching this month. Oat & Raisin, Peanut Butter, Cranberry & Orange and Double Chocolate Chip Cookies all come in 125g boxes, with an RRP of £2.95. islandbakery.scot

Paley Photography

Counter points Chocolate

During lockdown, Drivers Pickles developed three new additions to its range: Bread & Butter Pickles, Caramelised Red Onion Chutney and Spicy Calypso Chutney. The British classic, bread & butter pickles, has been given a spicy revamp with the addition of jalapeños and chilli flakes, while the brand’s Spicy Calypso Chutney is made with mango, pineapple and peppers and chillies. Chutneys come in 350g jars, and the pickles are 550g, all with an RRP of £3.50. pickle-lovers.co.uk

Food writer and former deli owner Glynn Christian offers up some category-specific conversation starters to sharpen your sales technique.

• Chocolate is native to Central and South America and was brought to Europe by Columbus and Cortes. • Dutchman Van Houten first separated cocoa solids and butter in 1828. In 1848, Joseph Fry of Bristol invented smooth eating chocolate by mixing a lesser amount of cocoa butter into cocoa solids. • Quality chocolate should be very shiny and make a distinct cracking sound when snapped and first bitten. The broken surface should look like bark. • Only English speakers say “cocoa” instead of the correct “cacao”.

Casanova thought chocolate was more invigorating than Champagne

• Dull looking chocolate means low-quality fat content, poor manufacturing, and poor storage or old age. • Famous love-rat Casanova thought chocolate was more invigorating than Champagne.

This is an extract from Glynn Christian’s book Taste!, published by Grub Street

Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

SHELF TALK WHAT’S NEW From the team behind pizza brand Zia Lucia is a new unfiltered lager inspired by the Southern Italian coast: Birra Cabriolè. Created by Laine Brew Co, the 4.6% beer is intended as the perfect pairing for pizza and has an RRP of £18 for 6x330ml bottles. birracabriole.com WaxWrap is ideal for those looking to cut down on their plastic waste. This alternative to cling film and sandwich bagss is made with four materials: organic cotton, organic Jojoba oil, pine resin and beeswax, and comes in three formats: rolls (20x120cm, 30x150cm or 40x200cm), a set of three bags, or a set of three wraps (both in three different sizes). waxwrap.uk The new book Plants & Us could work well in non-food sections. It takes a look at how plants have shaped human history, civilisation and society, including a chapter on food & drink. The tome is set to be released on 15th September, priced at £14.99 for a paperback (£22.99, hardback). gbpublishing.co.uk

My magic ingredient Wild Fennel Tomato Pesto, Seggiano ANTONIO PICCIUTO Owner, Buongiorno Italia My family aren’t keen on fennel, but I love it. My go-to product that I just can’t get enough of is Seggiano Wild Fennel Tomato Pesto from Sicily, which we get from Peregrine Trading. When I am home alone I take full advantage and cook myself a high carb dish of some casarecce pasta with broccoli florets and stir in the fennel pesto, and if it has been a really bad day I will add some Tuscan fresh chilli sausages, too. Pure pleasure in a pasta bowl! This pesto takes me back to my Italian parents’ kitchen when I was a child, where fennel would be a recurring flavour in lots of mum’s traditional home cooking.

This pesto takes me back to my Italian parents’ kitchen when I was a child

Antonio buys his from Peregrine Trading (Seggiano) at seggiano.com

Atkins & Potts range to get bold new look and fully recyclable packaging By Tom Dale

From September, a large tranche of Atkins & Potts’ range of sauces and condiments will be getting a refreshed look and new recyclable packaging, as well as launching two new Christmas lines - Classic Cranberry Sauce and a new recipe Turkey Gravy. Its finishing sauces, gravies, stocks, Christmas range, world sauces and pasta sauces will be sold under the new brand name of Dine In – stylised DINE – while the remainder of the range will transfer to the new branding in January 2022. “We are excited to introduce a refreshed brand look with a new “DINE IN” brand name and a more contemporary style” said co-owner Nicola Young. She said that the new 76

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

branding reflected the reality of the fast-paced 21st-century lifestyle that consumers do not always have time to cook premium done-athome meals. “Our cooks put in the time, so you don’t have to,” she said. Additionally, the brand has worked with SP Group – a specialist in flexible packaging – to create plastic pouches that are 100% recyclable. It has joined OPRL (The On-Pack Recycling Label Scheme) and will include the scheme’s symbols on all packaging so that it is clearly communicated to consumers how they can recycle the packaging. Atkins & Potts worked with Mayday Design Agency – specialists in food & drink – on the rebrand. atkinsandpotts.co.uk

The producer of the refined sugar alternative palmyra blossom nectar, SugaVida has undergone a major rebrand, working with illustrator Tatyana Bouyko. The company said the new branding reflects both the product’s ingredients and its health benefits to consumers. SugaVida’s range includes pure palmyra blossom nectar, three triple-strength Turmeric Superblends and an Ayurvedic Digestif Mix. sugavida.com

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Discover the range at dovesfarm.co.uk 74

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

@dovesfarm @dovesfarmfoods

SHELF TALK MEET THE PRODUCER Mike Duckworth is the founding director of nut butter brand NUTCESSITY – a curious choice of business for someone with a nut allergy. The company’s range is peanut-free as well as using no palm oil or added sugar What were you doing before you launched Nutcessity? I’d been knocking on doors for Abel & Cole in the South West, loving life and understanding the benefits of organic agriculture. When I launched the business, I was working for The Better Food Company as a store supervisor. Why did you decide to launch the brand? Out of necessity. I’d been lucky enough to study in Perth, Australia while at university. This is where I first came across almond butter. Back in the UK, the realisation that we were lacking an exciting, natural and organic nut butter brand was clear. Working for The Better Food Company helped me understand retail from both the supplier and customer perspective. That gave me the confidence I needed to press go. What is the biggest lesson you have learned since starting the business? I’m a very detailed, meticulous person. So, as time has gone by, I’ve learnt to settle down and be more comfortable with the unknown. Planning is important, but being empathetic and adaptive to stakeholders (customers, co-packers, buyers etc.) is paramount.

Why did you make the decision to use no peanuts, gluten, palm oil or added sugar? I have a peanut allergy and we wanted the range to be as accessible as possible for people with different dietary requirements. We’re actually developing a new flavour as we speak that does have added sugar (of the unrefined type), but we care about keeping sugar levels low because the overall nutritional profile of the product is imperative to us.

We like bold branding but subtle saltiness and sweetness

What makes your nut butters stand out from others on the market? We like to innovate. Although really simple and natural, our range is unusual in texture, flavour and branding. We like bold branding but subtle saltiness and sweetness. Our hero product is the Date & Walnut SKU – it won a Veggie Award in 2020 and a Great Taste 1-star in 2019 and 2020.

What was behind the decision to outsource production last year? There was a point at which I could not keep up with making the product, and in any case, my strength is not within setting up a factory and buying lots of equipment. We wanted to hand over production to a specialist team who had the right knowledge, experience and certifications that we needed. What is the best thing about being a small business? Taking on responsibility, making decisions, and not having to get approval from upstairs. …and the worst? Digital paperwork, and sitting at a desk a lot more than I would like. What’s next for Nutcessity? Lots. We have three new flavours soon to be released, and we’re preparing a crowdfunding campaign for later this year to grow our presence in even more independent shops.

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

WHAT’S NEW New from Snowdonia Cheese Company is Rock Star caveaged cheddar. Matured for 15-months above ground then for a further five months in 500ft-deep slate caverns in Snowdonia National Park, the new cheese comes in 150g truckles and 1.5kg wheels and will be available from October 2021. snowdoniacheese.com Organic flour brand Doves Farm has launched an Organic Oat Flour as part of its new speciality flour range. It’s aimed at those looking for different tastes and textures, as well as nutritional and environmental benefits. Milled from organic British Oats, the flour is high in fibre, vegan and gluten-free. RRP £4.20 for 450g. dovesfarm.co.uk Premium milkshake brand, Shaken Udder, has added Salted Caramel to its 750ml range after the growth in sales of its other larger-sized packs. The new line joins three other flavours – Vanillalicious, Chocolush and Strawberries & Clotted Cream – available in its 750ml range, all of which come with an RRP of £2.15£2.20. shakenudder.com Cupsmith has launched a gifting range of three Christmas Cottages filled with either Organic Christmas Tea (15g), Christmas Coffee (80g) or Luxury Hot Chocolate (70g). The whole range is sold in plastic-free, recyclable or home compostable packaging and each pack contains 2-5 servings. Also in its festive range is a 240g pack of its 70% cocoa hot chocolate, and handmade Hot Chocolate Spoonfuls in either gingerbread or salted caramel. cupsmith.com

A truly healthy crisp! Low carb, low sugar, high fibre... yet uncompromisingly DELICIOUS.

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0207 237 1750 Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

TRADE ONLY

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Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

DELI OF THE MONTH Set up eight years ago by the managing director of The Watercress Company with the intention of becoming a model retailer, Brace of Butchers is well on its way to achieving its goal. Now, the Dorset retailer is looking to push the boundaries of what can be achieved on a single site. Interview by Michael Lane | Photography by Lara Jane Thorpe

A cut above… and beyond MOST PEOPLE DON’T open a shop because they want it to be stressful but that’s exactly what spurred Brace of Butchers’ owner to go into retail. Back in the early 2012, Tom Amery had successfully steered The Watercress Company through a recession as its MD but he still felt he wanted a tougher challenge, so he went to see the firm’s chairman Peter Old. “I said to him, I need to understand what it’s like to not sleep at night in a business,” he says. So with Old’s blessing (as a shareholder in the new venture), Amery embarked on a quest to open a butcher’s shop. “I love retail and I could just see that everyone was getting it wrong,” he tells FFD. It’s quite fitting then that Amery decided to set out his stall in Poundbury, a development on the outskirts of Dorchester that is famous for a

singular vision of town planning – informed by the landowner Prince Charles. Amery, who has retained his position at The Watercress Company throughout, is candid about the fact that his own project has been on a slow burn towards success – much like the Poundbury development itself. And while the verdict on the Prince of Wales’s undertaking is best left to architects, it’s clear that Amery’s vision for butchery-led retail is now in full bloom after opening in October 2014. What’s more, there are further innovations and ideas still to be rolled out. On the day FFD visits in fierce July sunshine, the area around Queen Mother’s Square is heaving with people and Brace of Butchers is doing a roaring trade – despite being nextdoor to a branch of Waitrose.

VITAL STATISTICS

Location: Queen Mother Square, Poundbury, Dorchester, Dorset Turnover: £1m No. staff: 6 full-time, plus 4 part-time No. of lines: 1,000 Average basket spend: £19.68 Ben Black with Erin Lee and Hannah Jo Lawton

August 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 7

The numbers bear this out, with turnover now exceeding £1m and the average basket just a shade off £20. As well as an impressively large and well-stocked butchery counter, Brace of Butchers offers a full range of deli products, fresh produce, frozen lines and ambient goods, including a wall of packaging-free items in silos dubbed Naked Brace. It’s not an understatement to say this shop has come a long way in under a decade. When Amery was still in the early stages of planning his retail operation, he bumped into butcher Rob Owen, who was working behind the counter of Tesco in Dorchester after the closure of a traditional butcher’s shop he had worked in. “I said to him, ‘If I created the best butcher in Dorchester would you give me your career long term?’,” recalls Amery. “He called me back

MUST-STOCKS Maiden Castle dry-aged beef sirloin Watercress sausages Dry-cured smoked bacon Creedy Carver chickens Local leg of lamb Ford Farm Costal Cheddar

and said, ‘Are you serious? Because I’ll need another butcher, I’ll need [former colleague] Ben Black’. I said, ‘That’s great we’ll call it the Brace of Butchers’.” With Owen and Black on board, Amery had to find a location. He says he opted for Poundbury because it wasn’t “suffocated” with high street chains like Dorchester. “It was a brand new build and I knew I had to go big. It was right next to Waitrose. We sat outside there and tallied how many people were coming out, so we knew the footfall was good.” He was confident enough to take a 20-year lease but even with the potential of the site (the Waitrose has proved to be a friendly neighbour rather than a direct competitor) and the butchery expertise, Brace wasn’t an overnight success and Amery got the intensity he had been seeking. “It was stressful,” says Amery. “What we were doing in a week then, we can nearly do in a day now. When we first opened, we were taking £280 on a Monday and that was scary.” The business borrowed no money and was put together with cash from Amery himself, his wife and Peter Old. During the early months, Amery was having to inject more to cover costs but the investment has paid off. “I planned profitability in three years and it ended up being six, although for those last few years it was breaking even.” At no point was a compromise considered, though. From day one, the butchery counter was the focal point – and quite a revolutionary one at that. It runs most of the length of Brace’s first room and houses some 60-plus lines, including beef from Maiden Castle Farm on the Prince’s land down the road. In addition, the window through to the meat-ageing room behind was not

a commonplace piece of retail design back in 2014. “As a rule, most butchers have 6-7ft of counter but we thought, ‘We’re going to have lots of stuff to put in it so let’s go for it’,” says butcher Ben Black, who gives FFD a tour of the shop floor. “That’s our USP, the butchery counter. If anything, the rest of the shop now has caught up with the butchery. Unless you have a tiny little shop on the high street you can’t sustain things just selling meat.” In truth, Brace pretty much offers a full shop today. Overseen by Henry Love, the deli area’s counter and multideck is well-stocked with British and Continental cheeses and a number of items produced in-house: pies, sausages rolls, salads, quiches and ready-meals. More recently, the shop has added its own charcuterie made by staff member Lee Slater, who cures and dries a range of meats on site and often smokes them in front of the shop on a Big Green Egg barbecue. The rest of the offer – known as the “goods” department – is run by Hannah Jo Lawton and Erin Lee. This section has evolved to include fruit and veg, as well as a host of ambient lines. Whether it’s the silos of wholefoods, £15 boxes of Turkish Delight or a display of alcohol that includes £90 bottles of sake – most of these new additions seem to succeed and boost Brace’s offer further. “The two girls that run the dry goods side of things, they’ve got a turnover of about £150,000. One of them is 19 the other is 21,” says Amery proudly. “They’ve got total control over what they buy. If you start dictating, creativity stops.” After experimenting with an overall shop manager for a while, Amery has settled on

Traditional sausage rolls Honey Roast ham Dorset Blue Vinny cheese Sliced smoked duck breast Local organic eggs Evershot Bakery bread Fresh fruit & vegetables Local watercress Local honey

CONTINUED ON PAGE 87

Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

an approach that leaves each pair (or brace) responsible for their own department. Not only does this structure foster new ideas, it has also bred a spirit of collaboration that drives the business on. For instance, any potential wastage in the butchery will end up being directed to the deli’s ready-meal menu. Or, when the goods department finds out from the butchers what’s going well on the counter they will adjust the merchandising spot next to it. Having such a tightly-knit team was a real benefit when the pandemic struck in 2020 because it allowed the business to set up a home delivery service within days. At the height of lockdown, the team was turning out and delivering as many as 70 orders a day. While the volume has calmed down now, the shop continues to run the service. Its introduction has also brought new customers to the shop itself. That said, Brace of Butchers has always had a pretty wide draw when it comes to punters. Ben Black tells FFD that some people make weekly trips from as far away as Poole and Weymouth to shop with them. There’s also quite a mix of buying habits.

“There’s a lady that comes in and buys two faggots on a Thursday. That’s the only thing she’s ever bought and probably ever will. That’s £2.50 every week without a doubt. “We’ve got those customers that come in three or four times a week that will buy some bacon and sausages, or will take some mince and some cheese another time. Over the whole week that adds up to £150. “But, at the weekend, you’ve got people who will walk in and drop £150 in one go.” This customer mix is exactly what Amery was aiming for when he started out but now he wants to target a different segment of consumers – the 24-hour shopper. After £12,000 worth of investment in technology and a trial period, Brace of Butchers is ready to launch a vending machine service. Located in the shop’s second doorway, the machines will carry both chilled and ambient foods that have special digital ID tags. The whole thing is effectively a foolproof honesty box. A customer scans their card on the machine, the doors open up, they remove the items they want and whatever has been taken out when the door

is shut again gets charged to the card. Given that footfall is strong during the opening and closing hours of normal business, there’s bound to be customers who will want to shop even earlier or later. And the milk vending machine (supplied by Hollis Mead) that is already in the porch has been getting visits at 2am from customers. Amery sees this vending extension as the final piece of the journey (together with the home delivery service) to reaching his £1.5m annual turnover target, with potential to expand the outof-hours machines beyond the front porch of the shop and onto other sites. “Once we’ve got the technology in place we can start to take our brand into other parts of Dorset. I don’t want shops all over the place. It’s not what the business needs or what the staff want because you can get too ambitious and take the fun out of it.” Given the project’s progress, you’d imagine that Amery is back to sleeping well again – now it looks like he might even be making sales while he does so. braceofbutchers.co.uk

It was a brand new build and I knew I had to go big. It was right next to Waitrose. We sat outside there and tallied how many people were coming out so we knew the footfall was good.

Rob Owen

Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

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Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

GUILD TALK

View from HQ

By John Farrand managing director

IT’S COSTA DEL UK again this year for us. We’re taking ‘staycation’ perhaps too literally by not getting on a plane, train, ferry or even in the car. It’s more of a ‘homecation’. I’ve always quietly struggled with holidaymakers who insist on travelling to sunny southern Europe and then expect a British pint or fry up. Those people will be better off in Blighty this year, as judging by the Food & Drink Federation’s

news from the guild of fine food recent figures, there’s barely any British produce exported to the EU anymore. I continue to marvel at Westminster’s spin on this one, as they have repeatedly told us that all is well, but a 47% drop in exports to the EU compared to the same (first) quarter last year is shocking. Our erstwhile biggest trading partner, Ireland, had a 70.6% fall in export value of £307.4m to £90.5m from February 2020 to 2021. Only whisky showed a gain in the entire top 10 of products exported to the EU; the dairy sector has been slammed with cheese down 64.6% and milk & cream down a whopping (or whipping?) 96.4%. This is truly concerning and add the argument from a previous rant that it is largely the bigger businesses who are still exporting, this serves only to paint a rather homogenised picture of our food and drink credentials to the EU. Further monolith love was announced last week as larger-scale food producers and supermarket distribution hubs were exempt from self-isolating from the ‘Pingdemic’.

The Word on Westminster By Edward Woodall ACS

THE GOVERNMENT IS slowly limping into summer recess, grateful for the departure of parliament, and the scrutiny of MPs, as they leave to enjoy their summer holidays in the UK. For many MPs I am sure a question on their mind over the summer will be, has Boris’ premiership peaked? The political lift that he received from the successful vaccine rollout has certainly ended. When it comes to reopening in England, the Government has caused problems for themselves. Mesmerised by the opportunity to hammer the ‘Freedom Day’ message home, they failed to anticipate some of the reopening challenges and the case rates spike caused by the much more

transmissible Delta variant. This has had dire impacts on the food supply chain and other critical industries that kept the country running during the last 15 months. The Government’s messaging on when to self-isolate was also chaotic. The NHS COVID-19 app was labelled ‘advisory’ by ministers. This is a message they have quickly rowed back from and no doubt will regret further if we return to lockdown in the autumn. For a number of months now the food supply chain, including the retail industry, has warned of problems on the horizon. It started with driver shortages, which were admittedly the result of longstanding issues in the industry, but were also being exacerbated by drivers having to self-isolate. Now, these issues have crept into wholesalers and retail outlets leading to headlines that suggest empty shelves and panic buying.

‘Pingpong’ more like, as this smells a little rotten and anti-SME again. I get that we need to isolate to prevent spreading the virus, but it seems arse about face to lift mask regs and social distancing while at the same time grinding the economy to a halt because of a dysfunctional track and trace app.

Forthcoming dates for your diary

One or two pings in our trade and the whole business needs to close I’m with Andrew Goodacre of the British Independent Retailers Association (see page 5) who wants legislation to consider the independents too. One or two pings in our trade and the whole business needs to close as that’s the entire workforce sat at home – doubly annoying as they’ll likely spend their summer holiday there, too. This time, the response was quicker, the PM announced a new scheme to allow some workers to leave self-isolation early. But this turned out to be another example of making up policy on the hoof and the process has been delayed again and does not include frontline retail workers. The summer recess could not have come sooner for a Government that needs to regroup. It is clear that ‘Freedom Day’ has not met expectations and that living with the virus will be harder than we imagined. We also need policymakers to move quicker in these key moments. While it has often been the case that public policy is always trying to keep up with innovations in markets and changes in societies, in a crisis like a pandemic we need policy to get ahead of the situation. Edward Woodall is head of policy & public affairs at small shops group ACS edward.woodall@acs.org.uk

We are opening up our diaries for the second half of the year and looking forward to seeing you in person once again. Mark your calendars: This year’s Great Taste judging is now complete and results will be announced on Tuesday 21st September. We’d like to thank all of the judges and sponsors who have played such a vital role in this year’s awards. Then it’s time to turn our attention to the World Cheese Awards taking place in Oviedo, Spain, as part of the Asturias Paraíso Natural International Cheese Festival from 3rd - 6th November. Entry will open on Monday 23rd August and close on Thursday 23rd September, or earlier if the entry cap is reached. Early entry is strongly recommended. Find out more: gff.co.uk/worldcheese. Following last month’s announcement that a revamped Guild Retail Cheese training course will return this autumn, bookings are now being taken for Tuesday 28th September (London) and Tuesday 19th October (Harrogate). Booking information: gff.co.uk/ training/cheese. Finally, join us at Fine Food Show North to reunite and rediscover the very best food & drink on Sunday 17th & Monday 18th October at the Yorkshire Event Centre in Harrogate. Register for your free ticket: gff.co.uk/ finefoodshownorth.

The Guild of Fine Food represents fine food shops and specialist suppliers. Want to join them? GENERAL ENQUIRIES Guild of Fine Food Guild House, 23b Kingsmead Business Park, Shaftesbury Road, Gillingham, Dorset SP8 5FB UK Tel: +44 (0) 1747 825200 Fax: +44 (0) 1747 824065 info@gff.co.uk gff.co.uk

THE GUILD TEAM: Managing director: John Farrand Marketing director: Tortie Farrand Sales director: Sally Coley Operations director: Christabel Cairns

Sales manager: Ruth Debnam Sales executives: Becky Haskett Sam Coleman Membership, circulation & awards manager: Karen Price Operations manager: Claire Powell

gff.co.uk

Operations assistant: Meredith White Events manager: Stephanie HareWinton Marketing & events assistant: Sophie Brentnall Financial controller: Stephen Guppy

Accounts manager: Denise Ballance Accounts assistant: Julie Coates Chairman: Bob Farrand Director: Linda Farrand

Vol.22 Issue 7 | August 2021

TRADE ONLY

GET A FRESH PERSPECTIVE ON FINE FOOD & DRINK Secure your spot at Speciality & Fine Food Fair this September to gain cutting-edge insights, tips and inspiration from our leading industry experts. From trends and business advice, to industry red flags, we’re confident you’ll pick up the expertise you need to drive your business forward in 2021 and beyond!

Lilia Smith

Scott Winston

Food Trends Researcher Harrods

Buyer Fortnum & Mason

Charles Banks

Ben O’Brien

Co-Founder & Director thefoodpeople

Founder Sourced Market

6-7 September | Olympia London

FFD August 2021

Articles inside

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