January-February 2021 Volume 22 Issue 1 gff.co.uk
New year, new focus Kickstart 2021 with our guide to improving your business
ALSO INSIDE How the trade fared in December Blue Clouds cheese The latest in pickles & chutneys
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January-February 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 1
CONTENTS 5
NEWS
Discussing problems doesn’t solve them, but it can help to shake off the lethargy that might be creeping in.
14 SHOP TALK 19 CHEESEWIRE
By Michael Lane, editor
25 CHARCUTERIE 26 CATEGORY FOCUS: BISCUITS, PICKLES & CHUTNEYS 37 FOODSERVICE 38 BUSINESS IMPROVEMENT 49 SHELF TALK 55 GUILD TALK
Early in January, I had to make a trip to the FFD offices and while I was there, picking up some IT equipment (yes, it was essential), I also scooped up my post. Among the junk mail was a Christmas card from one of our freelancers. Tagged on to the festive pleasantries at the bottom of the card was a little joke about the dreadful form of the football team I support. In the spirit of tribalism, I messaged my colleague in the second week of January to say “that aged well”. By the time I had read his card, of course, the fortunes of my team had reversed dramatically and his sentiment was well and truly out of date. This will sound strange but I hope that some people feel the same way about certain things they read in this edition of the magazine. Let’s be frank, 2021 hasn’t started well. We knew Brexit was
coming but some aspects of it that our sector was dreading do seem to be happening – whether it’s to goods going out (page 19) or coming into the UK. Let’s hope that those paperwork headaches, stock shortages, and delays are just teething problems. Quite a lot of the vaccineinspired hope at the end of 2020 has been crushed by Lockdown 3, and this is one January when many retailers could do with any kind of footfall. And that’s sadly because Christmas trading was a real mixed bag for delis and farm shops across the country. The proof is there in the opinions of some top retailers we’ve spoken to (see page 5), as well as our analysis of the responses from more than 140 other businesses to a Guild of Fine Food survey (page 12). That survey has also laid bare that there are plenty of other things worrying our trade at the
moment – regardless of how successful December was for people. Journalists are often accused of scaremongering but we haven’t shared these comments to get people down. I’m of the mind that if there are problems, then it helps to talk about and share them. Individual business owners shouldn’t be suffering in silence. Discussing problems doesn’t solve them, but it can help to shake off the lethargy that (very forgivably) might be creeping in. We all need to muster the energy to see the beginning of this year as a time to work on upping our games and prepare for better times ahead. To assist with this, we’ve assembled a wealth of opinions and angles for you to consider, starting on page 38. I hope it gets the wheels turning after a slightly sluggish start to 2021.
January-February 2021 Volume 22 Issue 1 gff.co.uk
EDITOR’S CHOICE Tom Dale, assistant editor
New year, new focus
Capreolus
Kickstart 2021 with our guide to improving your business
New Forest Pannage Ham
ALSO INSIDE How the trade fared in December Blue Clouds cheese The latest in pickles & chutneys
Cover image by Tom Dale
“This is proper stuff,” enthused Charlie Turnbull at the recent Delishops Discovers online event after trying Capreolus’ latest offering, and he’s right. It truly is something special. Made from the legs of rare-breed British lop pigs that have feasted on the New Forest’s annual glut of acorns, this air-dried ham
EDITORIAL
ADVERTISING
Assistant editor: Tom Dale
Sales director: Sally Coley
Editor: Michael Lane
Art director: Mark Windsor
Contributors: Nick Baines, Patrick McGuigan, Jules Mercer, Lynda Searby
advertise@gff.co.uk
Sales manager: Ruth Debnam
Sales executives: Becky Haskett , Sam Coleman ADDRESS Guild House, 23b Kingsmead Business Park Shaftesbury Road, Gillingham, Dorset SP8 5FB United Kingdom
GENERAL ENQUIRIES
is an alternative to Jamón de Bellota, but has an extra layer of richness from the English acorns – Quercus robor, not the Mediterranean Quercus ilex – and gorgeous, melt-in-the-mouth fat. It’s an impressive product because it reflects its terroir, and the charcutier’s skill, beautifully. Read more on page 25
Tel: +44 (0) 1747 825200
Published by The Guild of Fine Food Ltd gff.co.uk
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2021. Reproduction of whole or
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Vol.22 Issue 1 | January-February 2021
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January-February 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 1
NEWS
Retailers focused on the positives from a ‘chaotic’ Christmas trading period By Greg Pitcher
Independent food retailers are focusing on the positive short- and long-term aspects of a highly unusual Christmas trading period. Businesses in the sector reported a range of different experiences over a festive period heavily disrupted by the pandemic and politics. Prime minister Boris Johnson ordered millions of Brits to stay at home over Christmas at just six days’ notice, and slashed the legal household mixing period elsewhere in the country from five days to one. With fears growing over new strains of the coronavirus, and the looming end of the Brexit transition period, lorries backed up in Kent with drivers waiting to leave the country. Rob Copley – owner of Yorkshire farm shop Farmer Copleys – said the government U-turn on Christmas mixing “added stress” to the ever-busy period. “It caused carnage, chaos and wastage,” he said.
New dates for Guild’s Fine Food Show North The Guild of Fine Food’s annual Harrogate-based trade show, Fine Food Show North, has been rescheduled for Sunday 17th and Monday 18th October 2021. The event, reorganised from 7th and 8th March due to ongoing concerns around the coronavirus, will still provide the same showcase of the finest food & drink producers from across the UK brought to the Yorkshire Event Centre. Other 2021 shows have also been pushed back due to the rise in COVID cases seen over winter. These include the Farm Shop & Deli Show, which will now take place on 5th-7th July 2021 at the NEC in Birmingham.
Fine food businesses reported a range of experiences in a highly unusual Christmas trading period
“The phones heated up and people wanted to change orders. We had to throw eight cheesecakes away.” Copley said that although the business had “double the orders” of regular recent festive periods, basket sizes fell. “Turkey sales doubled but overall sales and profit were up about 10%,” he said. “Other farm shops I have spoken to have a similar story.” Antonio Picciuto, owner of Hertfordshire speciality food store Buongiorno Italia, said the firm benefitted from
the government closure of restaurants and local people being unable to travel home to Italy for Christmas. “We sold out of panettone – we order enough to get us into February, but we sold out a week before Christmas, which is unheard of. “Once the restaurants were closed, we found people wanted really nice food without it being too lavish or extravagant. Sales were considerably up. The feeling among my peers in the trade is that we’ve all done well and we will never see another Christmas like it again.”
WHAT THEY ARE SAYING ABOUT...
Stefano Cuomo, managing director of Kent food hall Macknade, said that although retail sales were “buoyant” much of this came from online orders that created a spike in costs. While incidental purchases made by in-store shoppers fell, the switch in behaviour created a chance to look to the future, he said. “Profitability was probably lower than in previous years. “But it is a good Christmas overall in the context of COVID; we are fronting supply chains and creating opportunities for communities.” Cuomo said the fine food sector now had to decide whether to step away from online sales or fully commit to the model. “It will be a process. People who might be very good at cutting cheese are not necessarily the best at packing glass jars. In the long term it is all positive as we can move people away from buying random stuff and push them to buy quality meat and cheese.”
Cotswold Fayre unveils name of food hall venture Fine food distributor Cotswold Fayre has announced the name for its new food hall and kitchen currently under construction at Saltford, near Bath – Flourish Foodhall & Kitchen at Glenavon Farm. Paul Hargreaves, CEO at Cotswold Fayre said: “As a B Corp, we wanted a name that reflects the ethos of the new venture; to be environmentally and socially responsible, in line with our company values. “We feel that the name and brand we have created for Flourish perfectly encapsulate our aims for the new business. We have lots of exciting plans to make Flourish a healthy contributor to the local community, our team and the planet.”
An artist’s rendering of the new Flourish Foodhall & Kitchen
THE LATEST NATIONAL LOCKDOWN STEFANO CUOMO MD, MACKNADE FINE FOODS
“Our new site is very quiet and we are seeing smaller spends, while on our original site, footfall is down but spend up. With the furlough and other schemes we can continue to trade proactively. Hospitals here have been battered and a key part of making people comfortable is making sure our sites are clean and safe.” ROB COPLEY CHAIRMAN, FARM RETAIL ASSOCIATION
We have last year in the bank: in lockdown one, sales were up; strawberries and pumpkins did well after that; and Christmas was good. Now we have to hang on to the money we made and not lose it. We need to remain the safest, cleanest place to shop and do the basics well. We’ve had a big uptake of clickand-collect orders.” ANTONIO PICCIUTO OWNER, BUONGIORNO ITALIA
Examples of how this aim will manifest into day-to-day operations include several electric car charging points for customers, by working with Too Good to Go, an app allowing consumers to find, purchase and collect food, that may otherwise be wasted, quality products sourced from local producers and the aim that the food hall
will be as plastic free as possible on launch. Managing director of Flourish, Paul Castle, said: “Construction is well underway and we anticipate opening our doors in Spring. “We have already sourced some amazing local products and are in the process of recruiting our team and finalising our internal look and feel.”
“We have found that by Thursday, Friday and Saturday it gets busier than last January. Half of all the money spent on food goes to restaurants and when you shut those down people have to go somewhere else. We will keep our shops fully stocked: we are not holding back because it’s January; we are full steam ahead.”
Vol. 22 Issue 1 | January-February 2021
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NEWS
CYBER CRIME
Some independent food retailers could ‘fall through the cracks’ of government funding By Greg Pitcher
Many independent food retailers faced an uncertain start to this year after fresh government measures to tackle COVID-19 deprived them of business and failed to guarantee them financial support Firms reliant on passing trade, events and close interaction with customers were dealt yet another blow when prime minister Boris Johnson effectively closed most schools and offices and ordered people to stay at home from Monday 4th January until at least February half-term. Chancellor Rishi Sunak announced that retailers required to close their doors would be able to claim up to £9,000 per outlet due to the latest lockdown but this left question marks over the support available for firms allowed to stay open. A further £594 million in discretionary funding was made available for councils to distribute to businesses not eligible for the grants but food specialists were left wondering how and when they were likely to see any of that cash. Sangita Tryner, owner of Nottingham-based Delilah
Lockdown has caused an even-quieter-than-usual start to the year
Fine Foods, said the shop would usually be “buoyant” in January as office workers came in for catered meetings and shoppers dropped by during visits to the sales. “These next few months are going to be dire,” she said in early January. We are currently open five days a week but mainly housekeeping – if we get five customers in a day we are lucky.” Tryner was hoping to get hold of a slice of the discretionary funding announced by Sunak but said patience and relationship building were critical.
FINANCIAL SUPPORT AVAILABLE meaning employers can Cash grants furlough eligible staff
Retailers forced to close as a result of the third national lockdown at the start of this year can apply for a one-off payment of up to £9,000 per property depending on their rateable value. A further £594 million “discretionary funding” has been provided to devolved administrations and English councils for firms remaining open but hit by the restrictions.
Furloughing employees
The Coronavirus Job Retention Scheme has been extended until the end of April 2021, 6
and claim 80% of their usual salary for hours not worked, up to £2,500 per worker per month. For periods from 1st November 2020, firms can claim for employees who were employed on 30th October 2020 and meet related PAYE submission criteria.
Business rates relief
Shops in England do not have to pay business rates for the 2020 to 2021 tax year however they currently remain liable to pay the levy in the 2021/22 period that begins on 6th April.
January-February 2021 | Vol. 22 Issue 1
“It is not enough but it is something,” she said. “We are working closely with the council and received a grant in the past. It doesn’t come knocking; I didn’t hear for months. Be resilient and build up your contacts.” Daniel Williams, project manager at Cheshire’s Godfrey C Williams & Son, said the high street in Sandbach was “virtually empty” in early January. Business was impacted in several ways by the lockdown, he added. “We no longer cut cheese in the front of the shop during opening hours, and I no longer roast coffee with
Business Interruption Loan
The Coronavirus Business Interruption Loan Scheme is open until the end of March. It allows companies with turnovers of up to £45 million to access governmentbacked sums of up to £5 million without paying interest or fees for the first year. Companies need to show that they would be viable if it not for the pandemic and that they have been affected by COVID-19.
Bounce Back Loan
This scheme helps small and medium-sized
customers or even staff in the shop. I’m expecting cheese wedding cake orders and appointments to remain in a state of flatline and virtually all of the bars and restaurants we supply have closed entirely.” Independent food retail could fall through the cracks in the government support package, he added. “I am unsure as to whether we are eligible for the local authority grants. An extension of the business rates holiday would be of more value to us.” Meanwhile, financial consultancy Blick Rothenberg said an extension of two loan schemes (see box) designed to support businesses during the lengthy pandemic was “just a sticking plaster”. Partner Richard Churchill said: “Access to the money is no longer quick and many businesses face weeks of battles with their bank to access the funds.” Sunak said in January: “Throughout the pandemic we’ve taken swift action to protect lives and livelihoods and today we’re announcing a further cash injection to support businesses and jobs until the spring.” businesses to borrow between £2,000 and up to 25% of their turnover up to a maximum loan of £50,000. The government guarantees 100% of the loan and there are no fees or interest to pay for the first 12 months. The scheme is open to applications until 31st March 2021.
Local Restrictions Support Grant
Businesses that did not have to close but were severely impacted due to local Tier 2 or Tier 3 restrictions are eligible to claim support through this scheme for periods before the national lockdown came into force. Enquire to your local council.
IN BRIEF A new London food hall –Walter The Stratford Grocer Smith Fine Foods & Co – is set to open has announced the in the spring on the ground closure of three stores floor the Gantry in theof Midlands. TheHotel, Stratford, and revealed is offering butcher chain an online nationwide over Christmas that its delivery serviceWest in the Denby Village, meantime. Camden Bromwich and Coventry Grocer founders shops would stopScott trading, Winston Bunch– leaving itand withMatt 11 outlets are behind the are brand. many of which within garden centres. stratfordgrocer.com Tracklements hassaw UK supermarkets hired Ben Hallam for record-breaking sales theDecember, role of commercial in fuelled by manager, which includes coronavirus restrictions. identifying new market Customers spent opportunities. Hallam £11.7bn on food and joins the Wiltshire-based drink in December, the condiment specialist largest month of salesafter for 11 yearsever, at dairy firm Yeo grocers according Valley. to research by Kantar. HealthBounds, food retailer Laura owner of Planet Organic Kent Crisps, hashas been moved into hot awarded anthe MBE forfood delivery market and services to international teamed up with high-end trade. Kent-born 34-yearservice Supper, which old Bounds’ nomination will courier a selection was in recognition of of to-go sushi her workitems doneand to raise from two Central London awareness of Kent on the stores.stage. world kentcrisps.com
Industry veteran set to retire After some 44 years in the fine food world, The Fine Cheese Co’s Dean Lord has announced his retirement. Ever-present at trade shows and always on an immaculately dressed stand, Lord left school in 1977 and set off on a career that has also seen him take on roles at Petty Wood, Cottage Delight and The Bay Tree Food Co, as well as his most recent role as key account manager at The Fine Cheese Co. “I will now be able to attend shows as a visitor and actually look around one,” he told FFD. FFD wishes him all the best for the future.
S E CO N D BES T DOES N ’T S TACK UP.
First in fine for 30 years: fine cheese, fine charcuterie, fine crackers, fine condiments, fine chocolates... 4
January-February 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 1
F REE p re- p
rod u c t io n sa mp les
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January-February 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 1
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NEWS
New Telford depot sees Cress Co expand into Wales, Midlands and South West By Michael Lane
The Cress Co is opening a new depot in Telford that will allow it to expand its geographical reach into Wales and the South West of England – and increase the area it will able to source products from. The distributor’s new premises are set to be live from February and will house its own delivery vans that will serve new customers in these areas. The company also operates similar delivery hubs in Wetherby, North Yorkshire, and Leighton Buzzard, Bedfordshire. These receive trunked deliveries of chilled and ambient goods, from Cress’s main warehouse at its Scottish HQ in Dunfermline, that are then sorted for weekly deliveries. The Cress Co’s head buyer Nikki Castley told FFD that the latest expansion had been
Buyer Nikki Castley and MD Joe Wall have overseen The Cress Co’s expansion across the UK
scheduled for later in 2021 but a strong performance last year and demand had accelerated the move. “I think Wales has been untapped but it will be a learning curve, and we’ve been on the periphery of Bristol and Bath so we can see the potential in these areas,” she said. “Now, with our better brand awareness, we’re getting more enquiries.” She added that the move will also present sourcing opportunities, with the
Obituary: Charles Campion Renowned food critic and well-known Great Taste judge Charles Campion has died at the age of 69. Campion, who was best known for his appearances on MasterChef and as the restaurant critic in the Evening Standard, was also a fierce champion of small food and drink producers. Born in Leamington Spa, he was educated at Blundells School in Tiverton and began his professional life in advertising and also had a stint as a chef-restaurateur before becoming a critic. As well as regularly contributing reviews and articles to a variety of national newspapers, Campion wrote a string of cookery books and restaurant guides, as well as judging at Great Taste and the World Cheese Awards for more than 10 years. In 2018, Charles Campion received the Guild of Fine Food’s Great Taste Golden Fork award for Contribution to Fine Food. He will be sorely missed by all in the food industry, including the Guild’s team.
company’s vans able to pick up stock from new small suppliers. Despite the challenging trading conditions in 2020, Castley said that Cress saw significant doubledigit year-on-year growth in sales, with retail sales covering any gaps caused by the loss of foodservice orders. “Demand was coming from new and existing retail customers for more items and that was being driven by customers
IN BRIEF This year’s Veganuary Walter Smith Fine Foods event, which sees has announced thenonvegans sign up to commit closure of three stores to eat Midlands. plant-based foods in the The throughout therevealed first butcher chain month of the year, over Christmas thathas its seen record numbers Denby Village, West sign up. According to the Bromwich and Coventry Vegan Society, 560,000 shops would stop trading, people up,outlets – leaving signed it with 11 beating total of many of 2020’s which are within 400,000. garden centres. vegansociety.com
going to them rather than supermarkets. In a strange way, COVID has brought awareness to independent retailers.” The distributor’s newest catalogue reflects the change in shoppers’ demands. Chilled was a big growth area, said Castley, adding that there were more basics and storecupboard staples joining the range to sit alongside the variety of higher-end food and drink. In total, 19 new suppliers will be coming on board. Castley said she hoped that the move would finally put The Cress Co’s historic “Scottish distributor” tag to bed. “We’ve worked really hard to try and shake that off. And I think that’s already flipped a bit.” “Customers don’t really pigeonhole us much as a Scottish distributor. It’s more that suppliers contact us because they haven’t got any coverage in Scotland.”
Tracklements has hired Cheddar brand Ben Hallam for the role Davidstow hasmanager, launched of commercial a new includes range of identifying exclusive which aged cheddars from a new market opportunidirect-to-consumer ties. Hallam joins theweb shop. The CornwallWiltshire-based condibased brand launched ment specialist after 11 its online December, years atstore dairyinfirm Yeo selling Valley. a range of onlineonly cheddars and gift sets. davidstowcheddar. Health food retailer Planco.uk et Organic has moved into the hot food delivery market and teamed up A new study ofservice rats in the with high-end UK has uncovered that Supper, which will courier 74% carry aofresistance a selection to-go items gene, making and sushi fromthem two Cenpotentially tral Londonimmune stores. to rodenticide. This together with a 25% increase in the rat population in lockdown means 2021 may well be a bumper year for rats.
DOWN ON THE FARM The latest from farm shops across the country Located in Wellesbourne, Warwickshire, the familyrun Hunscote Farm Shop, pictured right, has teamed up with a charity and volunteers to supply and deliver fresh food parcels. The 25-week project will ensure that 90 struggling families in the area will receive weekly food parcels consisting of locally produced fresh meat, fruit, and vegetables. hunscotefarmshop.co.uk
A lot of hard work has been going on during 2020 at Friday Street Farm Shop. Based in Farnham, Suffolk, Friday Street already boasts an inhouse butchery, on-site fishmonger and a pick your own, while the popular Friday Street Farm
Kitchen serves a fresh, homemade menu and the business will soon be adding a delicatessen to the store. fridaystfarm.co.uk The award-winning Hillers Farm Shop was to celebrate its 100th anniversary with the
planting of a 100-tree orchard but instead, as lockdown loomed, the staff all pitched in to create a lifeline through the pandemic by implementing a calland-collect system so the community could access fresh food. Hillers, located near Alcester, has remained in the same family since 1920 and is run by fourth-generation sisters. The farm shop offers the best regional and seasonal food including an extensive range of locally grown fruit and veg. hillers.co.uk
In association with
Fabulous Farm Shops fabulousfarmshops.co.uk
Vol.22 Issue 1 | January-February 2021
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2021
Wales’ Largest Food & Drink Event 27-28 October 2021 International Convention Centre (ICC) Wales, Newport, Wales, UK
Wales is home to a successful and dynamic food and drink industry, that encompasses artisan businesses through to large companies with mass market capability. Building on the successes of previous events, BlasCymru/TasteWales 2021 will be the third time that producers, buyers and food industry professionals from across the globe gather at Wales’ signature international food and drink trade event and conference. • Sourcing Welsh food and drink - from branded to private label • Product Showcase • Meet a wide range of suppliers • Time efficient introductory meeting format Information for Buyers - for information about BlasCymru/TasteWales and sourcing Welsh food and drink please email info@tastewales.com To learn more and register your interest visit:
tastewales.com
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January-February 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 1
210104 Wales Guild_Blas Cymru Ad_FINAL.indd 1
04/01/2021 17:01
PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
Food & Drink Wales
Ensuring pride of place for Welsh food and drink A range of the Welsh GI family of products
#CaruCymruCaruBlas – Dydd Gŵyl Dewi 2021 #LoveWalesLoveTaste – St David’s Day 2021 #CaruCymruCaruBlas / #LoveWalesLoveTaste is a consumer facing initiative backed by the Welsh Government to encourage people to buy Welsh, to buy local and to celebrate Wales‘ vibrant food and drink sector. Launched in the summer of 2020 and centred on a series of “celebration days”, the campaign has captured the imagination of the industry and public alike. Plans are now underway for St David’s Day on 1 March 2021 where there will be a digital marketing campaign to celebrate the day and food and drink from Wales.
GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION (GI) may be a modest term, but it’s one that literally makes a world of difference when it comes to sharing our pride in the best of Welsh food and drink. Whether consumers seek them out in Wales or around the world, Welsh products with GI status can lay claim to distinctive quality, authenticity and the heritage of their natural place of origin. Today there are 16 products on the Welsh GI ‘A-list’. From Anglesey Sea Salt, Carmarthen Ham and Traditional Welsh Caerphilly Cheese through to PGI Welsh Lamb, PGI Welsh Beef and even wine, there is a feast of proudly Welsh products that Tom Jones, Conwy Mussels PDO
enjoy coveted GI status from the EU. In fact, with all the Welshness that goes into these outstanding products, perhaps ‘GI’ should also stand for ‘Genuinely Iconic’! The new UK Geographical Indication schemes (UK GI) commenced on 1st January 2021, and included the launch of the UK GI logos. All existing UK products registered under EU GI schemes will automatically remain protected under the UK GI Schemes. www.businesswales.gov.wales/ foodanddrink/how-we-can-help/new-ukgeographical-indication-gi-schemes
BlasCymru/TasteWales 2021
The BlasCymru/TasteWales event takes place on Wednesday 27th and Thursday 28th October 2021 at the International Convention Centre Wales, Newport. The Welsh Government is bringing together the best food and drink businesses from across Wales to meet UK and international buyers. It will be the largest ‘meet the supplier’ and trade showcase event in the Welsh food calendar. The event provides an opportunity to meet an industry under one roof – from large scale suppliers to artisan producers – and spans a broad and diverse range of product categories. For more information on BlasCymru/ TasteWales and sourcing Welsh food and drink, please email info@tastewales.com
www.businesswales.gov.wales/ foodanddrink/ email: bwyd-food@gov.wales www.Cywain.Cymru/Our-Producers insta: food_drink_wales twitter: @FoodDrinkWales fb: /FoodDrinkWales Vol.22 Issue 1 | January-February 2021
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ANALYSIS
Voices of the industry Analysis by Sophie Brentnall and Michael Lane
How much was business up or down (compared to last year) in the run up to Christmas? The answers were very split. Businesses either seemed to be significantly up or significantly down, with some reporting 50%+ increases and others similar falls in December turnover. Overall the trend tended towards increases, with increasing online sales playing a big part as well as the development of customer bases throughout 2020. Those with hospitality elements in their business clearly suffered due to lack of footfall.
Did you see an increase or decrease in the number of new customers? Again, there wasn’t a conclusive trend either way in the responses here but the consensus was there was a decrease in footfall to physical stores, but an increase in new customers online. One retailer told us: “It was fewer overall. In the last week of December, lockdown put a large dent in figures and numbers of customers.” Another said: “13% fewer transactions, but average basket spend increased by £4 (30%). More people treating themselves, and loved ones they were unable to see over Christmas.”
Views on Brexit “While not concerned about the movement of food and drink following Brexit, I am very concerned about the cost of jars, bottles and lids/caps coming in from the EU.”
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Retailers’ concerns beyond Brexit “I’m most concerned about what business model we should focus on when lockdown restrictions are eased. By way of example, 20% of our revenue pre-COVID would come from our food in the café, 20% from hot drinks (sit in & takeaway) and 60% from deli product sales. We closed our café in March 2020 and moved to a takeaway model. This year 90% of our revenue came from the deli products. We are marginally down year-on-year, but we have been able to operate with a third fewer resources and our VAT liability has dramatically reduced. What this means is that we now have a more profitable business. So our debate is what we do with our café. Will consumer buying behaviour change when things return to normal or will they have permanently altered?”
We think there will be a change in what people feel about eating out and mixing with others. Also, with the potential financial effects after COVID, that eating out will become a luxury for so many.
“I am not convinced that the British public fully understands that the cost of the products they buy will have to go up for food manufacturers to make a profit. I am concerned that the standard of food ingredients imported will drop. If anything, I feel the way forward is more organic food and drink.”
January-February 2021 | Vol 22 Issue 1
At the beginning of January, FFD’s publisher the Guild of Fine Food wanted to gauge the mood of the industry so it sent out a short digital questionnaire to its membership. Some 140 business responded anonymously to the poll. Here are some of the key findings about December trading and the concerns that companies have for 2021.
The probable decline in nononline retail worries me. Everyone is saying go online but our skills lie in face-toface retailing. Making food shopping an enjoyable and interesting experience is what we’re about.
“Pre-COVID we were struggling and having to work extra hard to try to grow new customers in our third year. This year customers have truly experienced all the benefits we can offer with our independent shop – what people have needed this year we’ve offered all along. The biggest concern is that all this newfound loyalty will disappear as soon as COVID is over and customers will return to their bad habits being seduced by offers and convenience. I have faith that when they do... next time they will definitely know that they are compromising on taste.”
“My worry is the staggering government incompetence and dishonesty. We have Brexit and the lack of a meaningful transition – with costs and zero benefits.”
We expect footfall to improve once the vaccine is prevalent. My worry is more to do with whether or not the online trade will disappear once lockdowns are over and whether footfall goes back up to what it was before.
“Our worries are mainly about availability, supply and cost from our cheese wholesalers on cheese imported from the EU. We’re also concerned about the shelf life of products due to delays. Concerned wholesalers may reduce the selection of what is available.”
“I don’t think it’s going to be worth small businesses like ours continuing to import in single, mixed-pallet quantities.”
New look, same awa r d -w i n n i n g p r o d u c t s At Peter’s Yard, we know good things take time. Our sourdough crackers are made from a 45-year-old sourdough starter, fermented for 16 hours before each batch is baked. Crafted without shortcuts or artificial ingredients for award-winning flavour and crunch.
Vol.22 Issue 1 | January-February 2021
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SHOP TALK IF I’D KNOWN THEN WHAT I KNOW NOW... REBECCA MAYHEW, co-owner, Old Hall Farm Shop, Woodton, Norwich
It began in 2016 with a Jersey cow named Freya. She was our first cow (my husband Stuart’s family had farmed pigs for years) and when she had her first calf in February 2017, we started ‘milk sharing’. Everyone we knew wanted to buy our raw milk because we kept cow and calf together, which is very uncommon. That April we opened our first shop – a shed with two fridges selling milk, eggs and pork. This little portacabin was soon turning over £50,000 a year, and in 2019 we moved into a ‘proper shop’ – a converted building housing a farm shop, deli, butchery and café. The transition wasn’t too painful – in many ways, everything gets easier with the economies of scale. Despite being much larger, we are still guided by a belief in quality over quantity. The shop sells more than 30 different cheeses, our own pork and beef, local lamb, chicken and game, locally grown fruit & veg and our homemade yoghurt, cream, butter and ice cream, as well as sausage rolls, samosas, cakes and ready-meals made on-site. We work with about 20 suppliers, all local. If a potential supplier approaches us with a new product, we want to know where it is produced, where the raw ingredients are from and how it is packaged. With packaging, we aim for biodegradable, or, at worst, recycled. There would have to be a very compelling argument for listing a product that doesn’t satisfy our criteria. Our expectations of our suppliers are high, but you have to find your USP early on and stick to it. Not every customer is going to be a customer you actually want – some people will never see the value of quality produce. We are never ashamed of not being the cheapest. Our milk sells at £2/litre because we only milk once a day and keep our calves ‘at foot’, yet it is our bestseller because our customers value the way we treat our cattle. Being a relatively small business (18 employees) has had its advantages during the pandemic. It has allowed us to pivot quickly and maintain close contact with customers. That is so important – if you aren’t in touch with your customers, you don’t know what they want. For us, social media is the key. If I post a good video in the morning, the car park will be full by 10:30 am. Although we are sad about the impact COVID has had on our café, we have plenty of plans in the making. Last April we took on a second butcher’s shop attached to a farm shop, six miles away. It is currently only open three days a week but we want to increase that to five days. We would also like to start producing our own cheese – a blue brie. The only problem is that we keep selling out of milk. Interview: Lynda Searby Photography: Old Hall Farm Shop
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January-February 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 1
CONFESSIONS OF A DELI OWNER ANONYMOUS TALES FROM BEHIND THE COUNTER YOU ARE PROBABLY hoping for some slightly titillating stories and a little glimpse into the private space behind my counter. But today, I’m all out of amusement and I’m just bloody tired. I did have to chuckle at one of those refund request memes today: “Dear Amazon – your product ‘2021’ is not performing as advertised. Can I return it as soon as possible and preorder 2022?” That might be as funny as this missive gets. Look away now. A marketing friend of mine has a database of names in the deli and farm shop business. Her inbox is full of bounced and auto-replied emails. There’s the ‘out of office due to furlough’ emails, ‘sorry, we are closed until further notice’ emails, ‘X is no longer with the company’ emails, and the worst of all: ‘The recipient’s domain does not exist’ emails. This is the digital detritus of an industry that’s been heavily damaged. Even though my shop is in a small market town, I am not in the greatest of positions. I have a small group of loyal walking-distance customers. We are selling bread, eggs, milk and
MODEL RETAILING I suppose I should reconfigure my shop. Aladdin’s Cave isn’t very 2021
If one more person says to me I should “pivot”, I’m going to deck them the like in quantities that we never did. The cheese continues to do well and frozen readymeals are selling well. But behind me there’s a big dark space where my café sits – a visible manifestation of my depression. Things are working but I’m still losing money. There just aren’t enough people coming in from outside town to cover the rent, rates, insurance. It’s the rent that kills me. All the space I can’t use I still continue to pay for. But it’s the lethargy I feel that is the worst
thing. If one more person says to me I should “pivot” or “do more deliveries”, I’m going to deck them. Pivoting – trying something new to reach new markets – needs resources and customers, so it’s risky. It needs energy neither I nor the team have. So right now we are just waiting for the end of this pandemic. Some businesses have a different sort of problem. I was speaking to a friend who had a great 2020 at her full-spectrum farm shop. Her confession is that she has to keep this under wraps! Another acquaintance has expanded their box scheme and had 3,000 orders in the week before Christmas, with over 1,000 orders in excess of £250! I mean, that is my JanuaryNovember sales in seven days! Truthfully, I don’t think either those with good or bad stories should be ashamed of it. This is just the nature of how business suffers in times of crisis. If you have good parking or a large catchment in walking distance, trade can thrive. City centres are out, suburbs are in. The positive for me is that the shop is still here and we are surviving (without thriving). That vaccine and spring can’t come soon enough.
SOLVING EVERYDAY SHOPKEEPING DILEMMAS. IN MINIATURE.
Or, I could not bother, because I have no customers
Maybe I could use this downtime to update the deli’s social media
Ooh, look at this Bernie Sanders meme
It’s probably time I did a proper stock take
Or I could eat all of this out-of-date ice cream and wait for another series of Tiger King
FFD says: It hasn’t been a great start to the year but try to put this quiet period to good use. Declutter the shopfloor and make it more suited to (COVID-safe) 2021 shopping habits. Engage with customers on social media. Take a look at the products that aren’t shifting and start looking for new items that your customers may want. For more ways to improve your business, have a read of our feature, starting on page 38. editorial@gff.co.uk With kind permission of Geobra Brandstätter Stiftung & Co. KG, Germany. PLAYMOBIL is a registered trademark of Geobra Brandstätter Stiftung & Co. KG, for which also the displayed PLAYMOBIL toy figures are protected.
Vol.22 Issue 1 | January-February 2021
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January-February 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 1
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SHOP TALK
THE DELI DOCTOR Paul Thomas Technical and regulatory advice from the Guild’s deli helpline Q: We usually use vinyl or nitrile gloves for food preparation but supplies at the wholesaler are patchy. Can we use latex gloves instead as there appear to be stocks of these?
A: Like many aspects of life, supplies of personal protective equipment, including gloves, have been disrupted by COVID-19. Supply has not been able to keep up with demand and prices have risen correspondingly. Latex gloves have been phased out in some medical and food manufacturing environments due to the risk posed to individuals with a latex allergy, as well as the likelihood of sensitisation. One study* has demonstrated the presence of detectable levels of latex protein on foods after contact with gloves containing them. Other studies have indicated the potential for symptoms of allergy to be triggered by the use of latex gloves during food preparation. It may be advisable to replace latex with nitrile or vinyl for food handling. It should be remembered that a clean hand is preferable to a dirty glove during food handling. I have lost track of the number of times I have
Expert’s eye GRAHAM IRONS, PARTNER AT HOWES PERCIVAL, HIGHLIGHTS KEY EMPLOYMENT LAWS TO PLAN FOR IN 2021 EXTENSION OF FURLOUGH The Coronavirus Job Retention Scheme (CJRS) has been extended to 30th April, postponing the introduction of the Job Support Scheme, which had been announced as the successor to the CJRS. A wider COVID-19 economic support budget is due to be announced on 3rd March 2021. NATIONAL MINIMUM WAGE National Minimum Wage (NMW) and the National Living Wage (NLW) are changing in April. The 2.2% increase in the NLW is the equivalent of £345 extra per year for a full-time worker. More young people will become eligible for the NLW, as the age threshold will be lowered from 25 to 23, so the NLW will become the statutory minimum wage for workers aged 23 and over.
WHAT’S TRENDING NICK BAINES KEEPS YOU UP TO DATE WITH THE NEWEST DISHES, FLAVOURS AND INNOVATIONS IN FOOD & DRINK
It should be remembered that a clean hand is preferable to a dirty glove during food handling. 1
witnessed shop workers, over the years, pushing rubbish into over-flowing bins or scratching their face or hair before returning to handle food, their hands “protected” by a pair of grubby looking plastic gloves and a false sense of security. Effective and frequent hand-washing is one of the principal ways in which we can control the contamination of food by a variety of pathogenic bacteria and viruses. Where gloves are considered necessary, they must be used in conjunction with effective handwashing technique and must be replaced regularly. Several studies have shown that the use of gloves decreases the frequency of handwashing. Where they are not strictly necessary, reconsider their use, but ensure a high standard of hand hygiene. *Beezhold DH, Reschke JE, Allen JH, Kostyal DA,
Sussman GL. (2000) Latex protein: a hidden “food” allergen? Allergy Asthma Proc. 21(5):301-6.
Dairy and food safety specialist Paul Thomas runs the Guild’s e-helpline for retailers with technical or regulatory queries. Send your questions to myguild@gff.co.uk
BREXIT EU nationals who started living in the UK by 31st December 2020 can apply for ‘settled’ or ‘presettled’ status under the EU Settlement Scheme. Settled status, which allows the worker to stay in the UK indefinitely, will usually be granted if they have lived in the UK continuously for five years. If the worker has lived in the UK for less than five years, they can apply for pre-settled status which can become settled status at the five-year point. The deadline for applying is 30th June 2021. Employers looking to recruit outside the UK should make arrangements sooner rather than later. Recruits need to be sponsored by a UK employer, who will need a licence from the Home Office to do so (this can take eight weeks or more to process). EMPLOYMENT BILL In December 2019’s Queen’s Speech, it was announced that the Government is planning a new Employment Bill. This is expected to be published in 2021, with several of the measures originating from the Government’s previous Good Work Plan. These include the right for all workers to request a more predictable and stable contract after 26 weeks’ service, extending redundancy protection to limit pregnancy and maternity discrimination and making flexible working the default position, unless an employer has a good reason otherwise.
More information on upcoming employment law changes at howespercival.com
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1 Hard kombucha Whole Foods Market tends to do a very decent job at predicting trends and one thing it reckons will be hot this year is hard kombucha. With several alcoholic kombucha brands in the US all vying for dominance, Cornwall’s Tinkture has created a canned, ginbased cocktail using kombucha in Tink & Booch. Meanwhile, Lisbon-based Ummi is taking its kombucha through a second fermentation to deliver the alcohol, with flavours like hibiscus berry, and lemon & ginger. Sitting at 6% ABV, this hard kombucha is gluten-free and low sugar, making it an attractive product for healthconscious consumers. 2 Post-COVID pop-ups As landlords wrestle with rent debt and empty properties, many reduced- or zero-rent deals are starting to emerge. In London, Bloomberg Arcade has given a rent break for 2020, offering tenants the best chance of survival while preserving the value of the estate by keeping it occupied. And in towns up and down the country, opportunities are rising with rent-free periods of up to two years – such as in Poole town centre’s Kingland Crescent. For many property owners, it’s about maintaining the base value, particularly for rows of commercial units. This means landlords are becoming more open to short-term and flexible deals, too. A flurry of pop-ups is expected to take root throughout the UK – ideal for fledgeling food start-ups. 3 The tornado omelette This bizarre-sounding dish is Korean in origin and has become a social media sensation on Tik-Tok. The loose, slightly wet omelette comes with a literal twist. While the eggs are cooking in the pan, chopsticks are used to turn the underside of the omelette, creating a swirl of ridges as the cooked under-layer corkscrews in. This is then draped over a mound of rice or noodles before being ceremoniously documented on the social media platform of the hour. A clever marketing ploy, a bit of fun, and a simple menu item taken in a playful direction.
Vol.22 Issue 1 | January-February 2021
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January-February 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 1
CHEESEWIRE
news & views from the cheese counter
Post-Brexit documentation disrupting British exports By Patrick McGuigan
Exports of British cheese are facing huge levels of disruption due to complex post-Brexit trading rules, which are threatening to hamper the previously buoyant sector. Goods leaving mainland Britain for the EU and Northern Ireland now require customs declarations, which are delaying shipments and adding significant costs. Cheese also requires an export health certificate, issued by a vet who must physically inspect each consignment under rules governing ‘products of animal origin’. Neal’s Yard Dairy, which previously shipped to France,
Spain, Italy, Belgium, Holland and Germany, has had to change its distribution model after its logistics partner Nagel decided to no longer carry products of animal origin because of the challenges involved. The cheesemonger has since found an alternative logistics partner but is currently having to route all deliveries through France. “Nothing is clear or certain at the moment,” said Gemma Gardner, export manager at Neal’s Yard. “There are huge hurdles to negotiate and extra costs involved. We previously shipped on a Friday to arrive Sunday, but we’re now having to allow 12-14 days for deliveries, which means we can’t send short shelf-life products.
Mike’s Fancy Cheese It is proving difficult to get British cheeses onto counters beyond the UK’s borders
The added paperwork is also costing around £400 extra per consignment.” Sales of cheese to Northern Ireland, which is still subject to EU rules, are also being impacted. Michael Thomson, owner of Mike’ Fancy Cheese shop in Belfast, has been forced to stop stocking Baron Bigod, Rollright and St Jude because of the new paperwork requirements. “The amount of hassle means it’s not worth it,” he said. At The Artisan Cheesemonger in Holywood, around 60% of sales come from British cheeses. “I’m very worried,” said owner Sam Curry. “We’ve already seen one supplier say they now require a minimum pallet order of £1,000, which will be transited through Dublin. “It will add days to the delivery time, but the rigmarole of placing the order is nearly beyond comprehension.” The Fine Cheese Co, which previously supplied retailers in NI by courier, has been forced to halt deliveries because the new requirements would add an estimated £150 per parcel. However, the company is looking to set up a hub there, so larger consignments could be sent and distributed in NI and the Republic, although this is likely to take several months.
NEWS IN BRIEF The owner of Northamptonshire cheesemaker Hamm Tun Fine Foods has launched a crowdfunding campaign to save his business, after a dramatic fall in sales during the pandemic. Gary Bradshaw, who makes Cobbler’s Nibble and Northamptonshire Blue, had raised more than £12,000, as FFD went to press. Former IT worker Alison Williamson has launched a cheese business called Whyte Wytch at Sacrewell Farm, near Peterborough. Her flagship bloomy-rinded, soft cheese – also called Whyte Wytch – is made from cows’ milk. Exporter Somerdale International has acquired the blended cheese business of Abergavenny Fine Foods, which includes the Y-Fenni, Tintern and Harlech brands. Somerdale said it had seen blended cheese exports grow by 10.4% yearon-year to markets including North America, Australia and China.
Tributes were paid last month to David Hartley, MD of Wensleydale Dairy Products, who passed away at the age of 58 following a year-long battle with cancer. Hartley was instrumental in the management buyout, which saved the creamery from closure in 1992, and helped secure PGI status for Yorkshire Wensleydale. “Each and every day he injected passion, quality and enthusiasm into both his business and personal life,” said the company in a statement. “David will be terribly missed by all his friends and colleagues at the Wensleydale Creamery.” He is survived by his wife and two daughters.
THREE WAYS WITH...
Harbourne Blue Made by Ben Harris at Ticklemore Cheese in Totnes, Devon, Harbourne Blue was originally based on a Roquefort recipe, but is made with goats’ milk rather than sheep’s. Aged for three months and wrapped in foil, the cheese has a crumbly texture when young becoming fudgier as it matures, with light blue veins and flavours ranging from citrus and floral through to sweet and spicy. Pear, Orange & Ginger Chutney Conference pears, stem ginger and citrus are beautifully balanced in Rosebud Preserves’ chutney, which complements, rather than contrasts with, the complex flavours of Harbourne Blue. The perfumed sweetness of the pears picks up on similar flavours in the cheese, while the heat from the ginger meets the spicy blue veins head-on. Fudge There’s a sweetness to Harbourne Blue that becomes progressively more caramelised as the cheese matures. Try it with a piece of crumbly fudge, and the sweetness is turboboosted, while the sugar also contrasts with the salt in the cheese in a similar way to salted caramel. Cambridgeshire-based The Fudge Can is a good producer to look out for – its Fresh Cream Caramel Latte Fudge won a 3-star award in Great Taste 2019. Wild Elderflower Bubbly Cheesemaker Ben Harris likes a glass of Luscombe Wild Elderflower Bubbly with his cheese. The sparkling soft drink is made with hand-picked elderflower and has a sweet, scented flavour that echoes the floral flavours in the cheese, while the bubbles refresh the palate after a mouthful of creamy cheese. Vol.22 Issue 1 | January-February 2021
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CHEESEWIRE
news & views from the cheese counter
Paxton & Whitfield says closures are due to drop in footfall
CALLING ALL CHEESEMONGERS Phil Scott, House of Mouse, Bridge of Allan, Stirlingshire
By Patrick McGuigan
Paxton & Whitfield has temporarily closed its flagship London store on Jermyn Street and permanently shut its Stratford-upon-Avon shop after a drop in footfall due to the lockdown. The Jermyn Street store, which has traded since 1896, was closed just after Christmas when the government announced tougher national restrictions, while the retailer has not renewed the lease on the Stratford shop, which has been closed throughout the pandemic. “[The Stratford shop] was super reliant on tourism and footfall had reduced. We didn’t feel it would improve in the short-to-medium-term enough to justify our efforts,” said MD James Rutter. Commenting on the Jermyn Street temporary closure, he added: “The footfall was so low and we would be increasing risk by having the doors open. It made sense to temporarily close the doors to the public. “To be clear, there is no
CHEESE IN PROFILE with Yorkshire Wensleydale PGI What’s the story? The Wensleydale Creamery is based at Hawes in the heart of the Yorkshire Dales, it is here they revived the production of the original type of Wensleydale cheese using an ancient recipe from the Cistercian monks. They make the cheese with fresh milk collected 20
The Jermyn Street flagship has closed temporarily but the Stratford outlet has shut permanently
strategy to close bricks-andmortar shops. They’re going to be so important to us as we continue to exit from this. “We need to have smarts around what we invest our time and money in and where there are significant opportunities.” Paxton’s two other shops in Bath and Cale Street, London, remain open and the retailer performed well at Christmas, posting higher sales for the quarter compared to 2019 with growth from online, corporate and wholesale to retailers, which offset lower footfall in daily from their producer group of 38 dairies farming within a 20-mile radius of the creamery. The creamery employs many skilled cheesemakers and the cheese’s reputation has been built on centuries of tradition, quality, consistency and provenance. Thanks to the characters Wallace & Gromit and their love of ‘a nice bit of Wensleydale’, this territorial cheese remains in the public eye and many visitors travel to Hawes to visit the dairy, shop and restaurant. How is it made? The milk is pasteurised on arrival and cheesemaking begins. Starter culture and vegetarian rennet are added, then the curds and whey
January-February 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 1
the shops. “As a business, we have to prioritise the efforts that are most valuable,” said Rutter, who added that the Jermyn Street shop will reopen when restrictions are eased and footfall improves. “We have to be really focused if we’re going to realise all the opportunities that are going to come our way.” Fellow London cheesemonger Neal’s Yard Dairy has also temporarily closed its store in the Covent Garden area of the Capital.
are scalded. After draining, the curds are piled up in blocks, cut then turned and cut again before milling, stirring and hand-salting. Once the large cylindrical traditional Wensleydale moulds are filled, the cheese is pressed for up to 2 days and then cloth-bound ready for maturing. Typically cheeses are matured for 1-2 months, however, this can be extended to 12 months for a deeper flavour. In December 2013, Yorkshire Wensleydale cheese achieved Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status setting it apart from the many massproduced Wensleydale cheeses made elsewhere.
Phil Scott has learned a lot from his first Christmas, after opening House of Mouse last March. “The main thing was I needed more cheese,” he says. “We underestimated it big time. We thought we’d sell 250 pre-order boxes of cheese, but ended up doing more like 500, so we had to keep reordering. Overall, we probably sold more than twice as much as we’d planned for.” Next year, Scott plans to have extra chiller space in the cellar so he can hold more stock and to simplify the range of click-and-collect boxes to make cutting and wrapping more efficient. “We’ll be working on our brochures in the next few months so they are ready and we know which cheeses we need in plenty of time,” he says. “We’re also going to do more pre-cut and small whole cheeses for ‘grab and go’ so people don’t have to queue. We were amazed by how many Golden Cross goats’ logs and Black Bombers we sold.”
Appearance & texture: The cheese is a creamy-white colour with a firm yet open crumbly texture. The outside of the cheese is more yellow – the hallmark of the handmade cloth-bound cheeses. At 1-2 months, it has a gentle clean dairy flavour with lemon citrus notes, while the more mature cheeses have deeper, slightly honeyed flavours. Variations: Flavoured with additives such as cranberries or apricots.
Cheesemonger tip: Offer tastings of this classic territorial cheese as it is worlds apart from the mass-produced versions. You will have many converts. Recommend serving it with fruit cake (or left-over Christmas cake!) and a glass of IPA. Chef’s recommendation: Coat cubes of Yorkshire Wensleydale in a marinade of whizzed up fresh parsley, basil, thyme, rapeseed oil, salt, pepper and juice of a lemon. Leave to absorb all the flavours over a few days. Serve the marinated cheese tossed over salad leaves, with seared scallops and sourdough croutons.
While traditional Academy courses are suspended due to the COVID-19 pandemic, delegates can still sign up to Level 1 & 2 courses online self-study eLearning or interactive virtual classroom courses. www.academyofcheese.org
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January-February 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 1
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CHEESEWIRE
news and views from the cheese counter
If I can survive this year, the rest will be a breeze
Weathering the conditions A glimpse into the Sussex operation that produces the Gorgonzola-style Blue Clouds By Patrick McGuigan
THANKS TO STILTON overindulgence at Christmas and New Year health drives, January and February are not exactly boom months for blue cheese at the best of times. Add national lockdowns to the mix and it’s fair to say that the start of 2021 is probably quieter than normal for wranglers of Penicillium roqueforti. For Chris Heyes, who makes the Gorgonzola-style Blue Clouds in East Sussex, the post-Christmas lull is a chance to take stock after what has been a topsy-turvy first year in business. “I’ve only been trading just over 12 months and 10 of those have been during the pandemic,” he says. “It’s been a steep learning curve, but if I can survive this year, the rest will be a breeze.” Previously the head cheesemaker at High Weald Dairy in West Sussex, Heyes went it alone at the end of 2019, setting up Balcombe Dairy at Lodgelands Farm on the Balcombe Estate. He operates from four converted shipping containers, bought from Kennell Vale Cheese in Cornwall when the owners retired. “I saw an ad in the SCA [Specialist Cheesemakers Association] newsletter on Wednesday and was on the train on Friday down to Truro.” Heyes makes Blue Clouds twice a week in the units, taking 500 litres of milk each day from the farm’s 350-strong herd of cows, which are crossed between Holstein, Norwegian Red and Jersey. This translates into just 16 cheeses per batch, but Heyes is a “one-man band” doing everything from making and maturing to cutting and wrapping, which makes the business viable. Space is remarkably tight in the units, but 22
January-February 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 1
clever ways of working have been developed to make things run smoothly. The vat, for example, doubles as a pasteuriser and can also be converted into a draining table by placing slotted trays over the top. “I’m quite a big guy so I do bash into things, but you get used to it,” he says. The idea for Blue Clouds was partly inspired by a trip to Italy to see how Gorgonzola was made. “It really sparked my imagination,” says Hayes. “There aren’t many British cheesemakers making this kind of cheese, so I could see there was space in the market. “ The recipe has evolved over the past year as feedback has come in from Heyes’ main customer The Cheese Man – a Brightonbased wholesaler. By using a different type of Penicillium roqueforti, Heyes has managed to achieve a gooier texture. “The latest batches use a faster-acting strain, so they are spicier and with more breakdown,” he explains. Judging how much to make each week has been tricky as restrictions continually change but Heyes and his business are small and flexible enough for him to navigate his way through the upheavals. “This year has been so unpredictable. November was rubbish because of the lockdown, but in October I decided to make as much as possible for Christmas. Luckily it worked out really well. December was crazy busy, but I guessed that there might be more restrictions coming so I didn’t make as much in December.” From February, Heyes plans to ramp up production again ahead of what he predicts will be a busy spring. “There is a lot of potential to grow when things open up, from wedding caterers and restaurants to farm shops and village stores,” he says. “I think people will go crazy when the restrictions are lifted. It’ll be like Christmas – the only problem for us is predicting when that’s going to be.”
CROSS
SECTION
Blue Clouds 1
Blue Clouds comes in 4kg rounds and is made with pasteurised milk and vegetarian rennet. It is aged for eight weeks, forming a blue-grey rind, before being wrapped in foil. The colourful cow label with Balcombe Viaduct in the background was drawn by a friend of Heyes.
2 The starter culture used by Balcombe Dairy contains gas-producing bacteria, which create small holes for the blue mould to grow. Saccharomyces yeast is also added to give a bready, yeasty flavour. The cheese also has spicy, farmy and dairy notes, while the paste is glossy and yielding.
3 Blue Clouds is named after a farm in Kenya, where former High Weald Dairy head cheesemaker Michael Wisdom once lived and made a similar style blue. Heyes trained under Wisdom for three-and-ahalf years at High Weald before taking over from him when he retired.
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January-February 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 1
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January-February 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 1
CUT&DRIED
making more of British & Continental charcuterie
Capreolus seeks PDO status for its acorn-fed New Forest Pannage Ham By Tom Dale
Picture: Jim Champion
Marking the end of a “fantastic” year for Capreolus Fine Foods is the launch of a new limited-edition product – with a PDO application currently being processed – for the Dorset-based charcuterie producer. New Forest Pannage Ham is the latest air-dried offering from David Richards, coowner of the Great Taste award-winning brand, and one he believes rivals the best Spanish Jamón de Bellota. Richards told FFD he draws the comparison due to the diet of the rare-breed British Lops whose legs are behind the new product – acorns. ‘Pannage’ is the ancient right of New Forest farmers to set their pigs loose to clear the forest floor of the oaknuts which are poisonous to the area’s famous ponies and cows which graze the land. “Pannage – or common of mast as it’s also known – is declared at some stage during the autumn and anyone who has a pig is encouraged to let them loose in the forest,” he said. “The farm shops in the area have been selling pannage pork for years, and it’s very popular because it’s very tasty.” The one cut which doesn’t sell, he said, is the legs as people are no longer buying legs of pork to roast, and the
Pigs out on pannage in the New Forest
meat ends up in sausages. “I tried one of these hams about four months ago,” said Richards, “and it was too early, but already the flavour was there. It’s incredible, it tastes just like the best Spanish airdried ham.” Historically, pannage was practised across the country, but now the New Forest is the only remaining location, which gives the ham a unique story. And this inspired the business owner to seek protection for the product under the UK’s new GI scheme, which Defra has said may take up to six months. At the recent Delishops Discovers virtual event, Richards unveiled the ham, with host Charlie Turnbull enthusing about the flavour. “It’s proper stuff,” said
Turnbull. “The flavour is so unique and the fat just melts.” Richards is set to enter the product into this year’s Great Taste and is hopeful it will gain a top award. “It’s the same recipe as my normal air-dried ham, but just with this amazing meat,” he said. “That was awarded a two-star last year, so let’s see about this.” capreolusfinefoods.co.uk
New Highland charcuterie producer grows range Scottish farmhouse charcuterie business Bogrow Farm is extending its range and making its products available online. The brand will launch wild venison pepperoni and chorizo, adding to its game offer after the success of its venison & pork salami, venison salami and venison bresaola. “All the venison we use is wild and is obtained by us as part of sustainable deer management of land within 20 miles of the farm,” said owner Caroline Matheson. The company debuted its charcuterie range in summer 2020 after running a high-welfare on-farm butchery at its premises in the Scottish Highlands selling free-range rare breed, native pigs, cattle and sheep. The range also includes air-dried culatellostyle ham, chorizo, ‘nduja and a range of sliced and snacking salamis as well as Great Taste award-winning bacon. bogrowfarm.com
Royal supplier Dukeshill bought by private equity firm The supplier of ham to the Queen, Dukeshill Ham Co, has been bought by private equity investors GC Investment Partners. The management buy-in team comprises executives Mark Gallagher and Andy Culhane of GC Investment Partners as well as chairman Des Smith who was formerly CEO of Aspall Cyder. Neale and Sarah Hollingsworth, who have led Dukeshill for over 20 years, are set to remain in the business and work with the new owners for the “foreseeable future”. The fine food business, based in Shropshire since it was established in 1985, holds the Royal Warrant as the supplier of ham to the Queen. Dukeshill produces a range of premium food products to retail and direct to consumer. Retaining its specialism in cooked and cured hams, today the brand’s product range spans a variety of meats, charcuterie and delicatessen items, cheeses, fish, puddings and cakes as well as seasonal items such as Christmas hampers. Gallagher said: “Neale and Sarah have done an incredible job over the past 23 years creating a brand that is synonymous with the highest quality products and excellent customer service.” Neale Hollingsworth, managing director of Dukeshill said: “We are proud of what we have achieved at Dukeshill and the support we have had from such a fantastic team. It was extremely important for us to feel that we have selected buyers who share our ethos of quality in both products and service; we wish the new owners well for the future as Dukeshill continues to grow its portfolio of fine foods and its loyal customer base”. dukeshillham.co.uk
Bogrow Farm’s coppa in its drying room
Vol.22 Issue 1 | January-February 2021
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CATEGORY FOCUS
biscuits
Crumbs (and dollops) of comfort Whether you’re starting 2021 in a sweet or a savoury mood, our first category round-up of the year should have something new for your shelves. Sweet & savoury biscuits are followed by the latest launches in pickles & chutneys. Compiled by Lynda Searby
January-February 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 1
Easy Bean is enlarging its bean & seed cracker range with two new glutenand dairy-free flavours. Launching this month, the Yellow Pea & Sunflower Seed and Chickpea, Turmeric & Nigella Seed crackers are handmade in Easy Bean’s Somerset bakery using flour milled from British-grown pulses. The packaging film is made from biodegradable polypropylene. RRP £2.95 for 160g (4 handy packs). easybean.co.uk
Shortbread House of Edinburgh has collaborated with lifestyle brand Sara Miller London to launch a gift tin range featuring the designer’s playful prints and vibrant patterns. The line-up takes in five flavours of handmade shortbread: Original Recipe, Warming Stem Ginger, Rich Dark Chocolate, Sicilian Lemon and Chocolate & Orange. RRP £10 for a 250g tin. shortbreadhouse.co.uk
Grandma Wild’s has unveiled NPD across several of its biscuit ranges. Two new biscuit varieties – Strawberry & Cream Viennese with White Chocolate Chips and All Butter Milk Chocolate Salted Caramel – join the Yorkshire bakery’s signature window box collection. In addition, its Giant Tubes range is being enlarged to take in Chocolate Chip and Fruit & Lemon Biscuits in floral decorative 200g tubes. grandmawilds.co.uk
Nairn’s has extended its oatcake family with two spicy variants: Peri-Peri and Cheese & Smoky Chipotle. Made with wholegrain oats, the oatcakes are high in fibre and contain no added sugar. They have an RRP of £1.40. nairns-oatcakes.com
This March sees Dr Karg’s relaunching its crispbreads in packs that use 30% less plastic, are made from recyclable monofilm and are resealable to keep the product fresh for longer. Produced in Germany, Dr Karg’s crispbreads are available from Arden Fine Foods in the UK. ardens.co.uk
Fermented slowly over 48 hours
Building on the success of its long-fermented sourdough loaves, Oxford start-up Modern Baker is bringing its healthy values and ‘slow’ carbs ethos to the biscuits category. These organic sourdough biscuits are fermented slowly over 48 hours to create a snack that is vegan, rich in fibre and free from refined sugar and preservatives. They come in four flavours that have already been snapped up by Planet Organic, Wholefoods, Selfridges and Daylesford. RRP £6 (four biscuits per pack). modernbaker.com
Doves Farm’s biscuits range has been treated to new-look packaging. This range offers a nutritious take on everyday favourites such as digestives, oat biscuits and ginger biscuits. Doves Farm’s versions are vegan, organic, rich in fibre and made from wholemeal flour. dovesfarm.co.uk 26
Handmade with organic eggs and butter by a family bakery in Tuscany, these new chocolatey biscuits from Seggiano celebrate the tradition of classic country biscuits as they were once made. They launch during February in three flavours: Orange & Chocolate Cantuccini Biscuits, Double Chocolate Cantuccini Biscuits and Sea Salt & Chocolate Biscuits. RRP £5.50 for 200g; trade price £3.60. seggiano.com
pickles & chutneys Great British Biscotti’s quest to develop glutenfree, vegan versions of its nutty coffee accompaniments has yielded two new biscotti. The Dark Choc Cranberry & Almond and Roasted Hazelnut Orange variants contain gluten-free flour and coconut oil. They are the brand’s first products to be wrapped in compostable film, with the rest of the range following suit. RRP £1.50 for a twin-pack. greatbritishbiscotti.co.uk
This hand-baked cracker collection from Welsh bakery Cradoc’s launched just before the first lockdown last year, bringing to the table a range of simpler, plainer crackers for cheese. The best-selling SKU – Sea Salted – is made with Halen Môn salt and all the recipes are free from palm oil and nasties. cradocssavourybiscuits. co.uk
>> Northumbrian Pantry has created a piccalilli based on Hannah Glasse’s Paco Lilli, one of the first ever recorded piccalilli recipes dating back to the 19th century. The vegetables are blanched and not overcooked, resulting in a sharp and crunchy Indian relish that is a little more mustardy than most piccalillis. RRP £3.95 for a 190ml jar; wholesale price £2.75. northumbrianpantry.com
Cottage Delight has extended its BBQ and cooking supplements offering with the development of Sticky Balsamic Onions. Sliced onions are slow cooked in a rich and dark sticky balsamic glaze sauce sweetened with demerara sugar to produce an accompaniment that can be enjoyed on hot dogs and burgers or added to stew. RRP £3.99 for 240g; trade price £2.67. cottagedelight.co.uk
Retailers looking for brands with provenance and a colourful back story should check out Cheshire-based Fruits of the Forage. Its latest launches include Pickled Hessel Pears, Heritage Pear Chutney made with Cadillac cooking pears from ancient trees in Cheshire; and Carrot Curry Chutney, which uses carrots that have been rejected by the supermarkets. RRPs £7 for pickles; £3.95 for chutneys. fruitsoftheforage.co.uk
Reminiscing during lockdown about family holidays has inspired the development of several new chutneys from Driver’s Pickles. Spicy Calypso Chutney promises to bring Caribbean sunshine to cooked meats and fish, whilst Bread & Butter Pickles and Caramelised Red Onion Chutney are a reminder that summer is just round the corner. RRP £3.50. pickle-lovers.co.uk
Red Onion & Redcurrant Relish, Piquant Pear Chutney and Pickled Red Cabbage with Sloe Gin are the latest creations to come out of Ajar Of’s Dorset kitchen. All three accompaniments have an RRP of £3.25; wholesale price £1.85. ajar-of.co.uk
Following the popularity of its Pickled Onions with Garlic, Mrs Picklepot has launched Garlic Pickle. The Chester-based producer has also balanced out its range with a sweet Sticky Onion Pickle and a classic Piccalilli, which features crunchy baby onions for a more ‘pickly’ taste profile. mrspicklepot.co.uk
Fantastic gifting opportunities and recipe inspiration
Latest updates to Artisan Biscuits’ portfolio include the launch of gluten-free versions of its best-selling Miller’s Damsel Charcoal and Miller’s Cranberry & Raisin Toast. Meanwhile, sister brand The Fine Cheese Co welcomes Spelt, Wheat and Wholemeal Crackers to its All-Butter range, and Bath Squares, Charcoal Squares, Wheat Rounds and Oatcake Rounds to its Heritage collection. artisanbiscuits.co.uk
A new tie-up with Aardman Animations will see Dean’s of Huntly introducing several Wallace & Gromitthemed biscuit lines in 2021. The first products to launch under the licensing agreement will be a trio of 300g shortbread tins (RRP £9.95) and a five-strong range of sweet and savoury biscuits, available via Petty Wood from March. deans.co.uk
The Cherry Tree has launched The Flavour Tree – a tiered display stand designed to drive sales through gifting opportunities, deals and recipe ideas for six of its sweet and savoury best sellers. Shoppers are encouraged to take advantage of the producer’s £5.99 deal, which includes 5 x 42g mini jar or 3 x 100g jars, recipe cards and a gift bag. Trade price is £383 for the entire display (including stock). cherrytreepreserves. co.uk
THE DISCERNING DRINKER’S GIFT SET
Doughlicious has rolled out three new flavours of gluten-free ready-to-bake cookie dough: Red Velvet & White Chocolate, Raspberry & White Chocolate and Organic Cranberry Oatmeal. Each box contains six dough balls. RRP £3.99. doughlicious.co.uk
New for 2021 from The Drinks Bakery is the Discerning Drinker’s Gift Set. This yearround gift box contains all four signature flavours of the bakery’s Drinks Biscuits – savoury biscuits that are flavour profiled to be paired with specific drinks. RRP £9.95; trade price £5.95. thedrinksbakery.com
The Preservation Society has launched its Apple & Quince Membrillo, previously only available in catering pails, in jar format (RRP £3.95). The Chepstow producer says the Spanish-style fruit paste is packed with swap-cropped apples and quince from neighbours’ gardens. thepreservationsociety.co.uk
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January-February 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 1
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pickles & chutneys Newcomer Rogue is on a mission to become the number-one brand for brunch by “pairing the unexpected, innovating in flavours and bringing inspiration from restaurants into the home”. Its products have an ethical dimension too - for every tub sold a child in poverty receives a school meal via a partnership with charity One Feeds Two. RRPs range between £3.95 and £4.50. enjoyrogue.com
GingerBeard’s Preserves has revamped its Original Lime Pickle, tweaking the recipe to create a more balanced aromatic flavour and mild chilli kick. The sweet, mellow pickle can be paired with curries, samosas and poppadoms or mixed into salads and couscous. The Bristol producer also makes a Sweet ’n’ Hot version of this pickle. RRP £4.60; wholesale price £2.75. gingerbeardspreserves. co.uk
Crooked Pickle Co has taken what is arguably the most ubiquitous cheese accompaniment and translated it into pickle format. Red grapes are pickled in a sweetened cider vinegar infused with mulled wine spices, turning them into sweet, crunchy pickles that are said to complement a variety of cheeses, cold cuts, pate and terrines. RRP £3.95; trade price £2.50. crookedpickle.co
Taking the Irish word for ‘wholesome’ as its name, Folláin has developed a range of “healthier” noadded-sugar relishes that are sweetened naturally with grape juice. The relishes, which include Red Pepper, Caramelised Red Onion and Irish Tomato, are already widely stocked in Ireland and now the West Cork producer is looking to break into the UK market. RRP €3.29. follain.ie
Galloway Lodge Preserves reports that its chutney sales leapt by 54% in the run-up to Christmas following a redesign. The range now features strong ‘made in Scotland’ messaging and has been extended to take in a Fig Chutney, which, like the producer’s other chutneys, has a competitive RRP of just under £3. gallowaylodge.co.uk
Rosebud Preserves’ new Damson Fruit Paste for Cheese contains just three ingredients: damsons, fresh lemon juice and unrefined cane sugar for a natural set. This sweet, sharp and vibrant fruit preserve pairs with goats cheese and has an RRP of £3.95 for 125g; trade price £2.97. rosebudpreserves.co.uk
Cooking sauce and condiments producer Karimix has fused Asian spices with Kentish apples to create two chutneys with provenance. Both Spiced Apple Chutney and Apple & Ginger Chutney are listed with Partridges and Whole Foods and have an RRP of £3.50 (trade price £2.25). karimix.com
Ballymaloe has launched its Irish Beetroot to the UK speciality trade, with the hope that it will become as popular as it is at home. Cooked, pickled and packed in Cork, it is said to be the only locally produced beetroot on the Irish market. RRP €2.99. ballymaloefoods.ie
Lauran Wise, founder of Hertfordshire business Twee, regales the story behind her latest creation Granny’s Apple Chutney. “I love scouring local secondhand book stalls for old recipe books to get ideas for new chutneys,” she says. “At my local church fete I discovered a 1968 copy of Home Preservation of Fruit and Vegetables and when I was leafing through it later, I found a slip of paper with a handwritten recipe for apple chutney. The instructions were so beautifully scribed that I had to try it.” The recipe, she says, was a “delicious triumph” and the end result goes with both cheese and cold cuts as well as roast pork. tweelife.co.uk
Highfield Preserves, a Devon producer with a firm focus on using British produce, has high hopes for its chutney collection, which launched last October. Following success with wholesale orders from hamper companies for Christmas, the producer is launching its jams and marmalades in regional Waitrose stores this year. The second-generation family business has rebranded this year and plans to introduce new flavours to the range during 2021 as well as marketing a new Christmas range with gift packs including a ‘Chutney for Cheese’ collection. RRP for a jar of chutney is £3.50 (wholesale price £2). highfieldpreserves.co.uk
Red Tomato Chutney and Red Onion Relish are two of the latest jarred creations from The Fruity Kitchen in Yorkshire. The chutney marries ripe tomatoes with red chilli while the relish is the result of slow cooking red onions with balsamic vinegar, garlic and thyme. RRP £2.75 for 227g. info@thefruitykitchen.co.uk
Vol.22 Issue 1 | January-February 2021
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Awesome tasting, award winning craft preserves made by a man with a ginger beard in Bristol, UK.
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Award winning English wine, mead, spiced rum, fruit wines and liqueurs and a range of gift packs.
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Picture courtesy of Tourism NI: Harry Avery’s Castle, Co Tyrone
Northern Ireland. Open for Business.
Following the EU transition period, NI continues to be a great place to buy from if you are in GB: • No tariffs • No new customs checks • No new regulatory checks Just the same, Pure, Natural, Quality from our trusted food and drink manufacturers. World class products, service you can rely on. Invest NI continues to pursue new opportunities to bring innovative products to market. Contact our business development team for more information. E: Michelle.charrington@investni.com E: Drew.mcivor@investni.com
Northern Ireland. Altogether more.
Vol.22 Issue 1 | January-February 2021
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04/01/2021 11:32
PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
Ahmad Tea
Tea with benefits Given the monumental shift towards health & wellness around the world, Ahmad Tea has been exploring this trend. What’s more, the family owned UK company and global leader in speciality tea has carefully crafted a Natural Benefits range to care for consumers at a time when it’s needed most… WAKING UP TO WELLNESS In uncertain times, a good cup of tea is more than an essential… it has the power to bring people together, to comfort and heal. The advent of COVID-19 has created a monumental shift towards health and wellness around the world. Consumer interest in all things functional is on the rise as consumers prioritise their wellbeing, from improving sleep to boosting energy. Immunity in particular has taken the limelight. Interest in immune-boosting ingredients rose 66% when the pandemic first took hold last March1– a trend that is set to continue as people strive to stay healthy and ward off illness. A CARING CUPPA With the growing trend for functional food & drink, the new generation of tea drinkers expect their brew to work that bit harder. In fact, almost a quarter (27%) are actively seeking tea
with health benefits2, such as boosting immunity or improving digestive health. Our new Natural Benefits range, a collection of herbal and green tea infusions with added vitamins and botanicals, has been specially crafted to meet this demand, supporting consumers in their quest to feel good and stay nourished. Boasting six all-natural premium 6 NEW NATURAL BENEFITS BLENDS FROM AHMAD TEA 1. Immune: Lemon, Ginger & Turmeric + Vitamin C 2. Energy: Grapefruit, Mate & Guarana + Vitamin B6 3. Sleep: Camomile, Honey & Lavender + Passion Flower 4. Beauty: Peach, Carob & Rose Petals + Aloe Vera 5. Slim: Lemon, Mate & Matcha Green Tea + Zinc 6. Digest: Sweet Mint & Fennel + Biotin
Tastewise insights, March 2020 Mintel – Tea and other hot drinks report, July 2019 3 Ipsos Mori research, June 2020 1 2
blends our innovative range has been created to care. Among these blends is ‘Immune’ – a fusion of lemon, ginger & turmeric with added Vitamin C to support the immune system – and the ‘Energy’ blend of grapefruit, mate & guarana seed with Vitamin B6 to reduce fatigue. There’s also ‘Sleep’ - a blend of camomile, honey and lavender with Passion Flower to help drinkers relax and unwind. TEA 4 GOOD As a proud member of the Ethical Tea Partnership, Ahmad Tea strives to bring communities together to help those in need. We do this by donating 20% of our profits to charity – spreading kindness where it’s most needed, from helping people in Niger access clean water to building and furnishing a fully equipped hospital in Sri Lanka. Ahmad Tea Natural Benefits blends (RRP £3 per pack of 20) are available now. To enquire or to make an order please contact Ahmad Tea at uk.sales@ahmadtea.com or buy via Cotswold Fayre: www.cotswold-fayre.co.uk www.ahmadtea.com
SPOTLIGHT ON SLEEP
With more than half the UK population struggling to sleep during lockdown3, getting a good night’s sleep is more vital than ever. Created by top tea masters, the new Natural Benefits ’Sleep’ infusion from Ahmad Tea is a luxurious blend of flowers, honey and lemon balm to unwind and de-stress. 100% natural and caffeine-free, the infusion combines calming camomile with fragrant lemon balm, soothing lavender and passion flowers for the perfect bedtime brew. Dominic Marriott, Tea Taster at Ahmad Tea’s UK HQ explains how the new Natural Benefits range has been created to support and nourish: “These are unprecedented times, with increased consumer desire to stay fit and healthy creating huge demand for wellness teas around the world. Factors such as rising stress and anxiety have meant consumers are looking for easy ways to stay nourished and feel good.” “Our new Natural Benefits blends not only deliver the exceptional taste experience that consumers have come to expect from Ahmad Tea, but also give people a helping hand when it’s needed most, whether they are looking for a more restful night’s sleep or an energy boost to help handle life’s daily challenges.”
Vol.22 Issue 1 | January-February 2021
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OPEN FOR ENTRY Guild members only 1-15 February General entry
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Sweet & savoury biscuits in both traditional recipes and those unique to McKenzie’s Biscuits baked to the highest standards. Now available throughout the UK and selected overseas markets Traditional butter biscuits and oatcakes. Our own recipe herb flavoured savoury biscuits in various flavours including thyme, rosemary and basil Stem Ginger Biscuits
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January-February 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 1
FOCUS ON
foodservice
EQUIPMENT & SERVICES
FROM THE DELI KITCHEN SIMPLE RECIPES TO BOOST YOUR MARGINS
JARRED FRUIT & NUT PORRIDGE This straightforward porridge mix makes a great gift or treat to sell to the “new year, new you” brigade... Makes: Four jars Ingredients: 1 cup porridge oats 3tbsp whole milk powder 4tbsp brown sugar 1tsp cinnamon Pinch of salt 40g nuts 2tbsp sunflower seeds 20g dried mango and apricots
Method: Divide the oats between the four jars. In a small bowl, mix the brown sugar, cinnamon and salt. Divide the nuts between the jars. Sprinkle over about a tablespoon of the sugar mixture over the nuts, followed by the sunflower seeds and dried fruit.
Serving instructions for the jar label: For overnight oats, add 200ml milk and leave overnight. For stove-top porridge, pour the mixture out and add 200ml milk or 100ml water and 100ml fruit juice. Stir over low heat until the porridge is cooked through.
Winia has become the latest professional microwave brand to land in the UK. The new range includes 1100W models available as both manual and touch-control varieties, with the essential safety Start button included. Winia also offers heavy-duty 1500w and 1850w models, with a Microsave Cavity Liner fitted as standard. They are the only compact microwave oven able to accommodate 1/2 gastronorm or two 1/3 gastronorm containers with the Microsave liner inside. regale.co.uk
Michael Lane
Hospitality industry body UKHospitality is urging the entire sector to unite to highlight the urgent need for support. It said supply chain businesses are struggling to access support and their failure could put the recovery of the sector at risk. The UKHospitality Supplier Alliance has produced a template letter drawing the plight of supply chain businesses to the attention of MPs and calling for an immediate review of support and additional access to funding. ukhospitality.org.uk
Recipe by Jules Mercer for Fine Food Digest
Ali Group company Edlund has “reinvented” the can opener – eliminating the need to replace worn blades as it comes with a blade capable of opening 10,000 cans. The manufacturer said that the idea for the product – the Edvantage #1 – came from talking to pizza chains about their frustrations with products manufactured in the Far East that kept failing. edlundco.com Vol.22 Issue 1 | January-February 2021
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FOCUS ON
business improvement
2021 is perhaps not shaping up to be the fresh start many were hoping for, but that’s no reason not to look at what you did well in 2020, and where you could improve your business. Whether it’s customer experience (right), social media and branding (p.41), boosting your plant-based offer (p.42), or being more COVID-safe (p.45), we’ve got you covered.
Start that ‘to do’ list
Asking your customers how they are feeling is a great way to connect and gain feedback
1. IMPROVE CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE Despite the new year beginning in familiar territory - lockdown - now is not the time for complacency, claims Insight 6’s Richard Knight. REFLECT To ensure you’re offering the best to everyone who comes through your doors, it’s vital to understand the change in customer journey that has been happening in 2020. It’s time to look again and think, ‘this is the situation now, what could potentially change again going into April as the weather improves and restrictions are relaxed – now is the time to be looking at which touchpoints could potentially be reopened and asking yourself, ‘how good were we on this preCOVID?’ These things haven’t been lost forever, only put on hold, so you need to be ready for their reintroduction. It’s all about journey mapping. When was the
last time you stopped and mapped a journey that your customers take to purchase your products? Now is the time to do it
REDOUBLE Consumer confidence is undoubtedly damaged. But the areas where it has taken the biggest hit, according to Insight 6 research, is in larger urban centres and busy retail hubs. So, for retailers in more rural settings or quieter areas, any loss of confidence in busy shopping districts is a massive opportunity as we go into 2021, especially with the rise in popularity of the ‘shop local’ concept. But to make the most of that, there needs to be a focus on communication. It’s about three things. Asking how people are feeling and acting on that feedback; displaying how
Great employee experience drives great customer experience
Compiled by Tom Dale 38
January-February 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 1
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Many of the changes put in place to support physical distancing will be with us for a while, and retailers should be considering the implications for future shop design. This might include wider aisles, more room for customers to move around and greater flexibility for retailers in changing layouts going forward. Much will be focused on space. This may mean moveable fixtures or the ability to make different sections of space within the shop. Reducing the number of lines and taking away that sense of discovery is not the answer. We all strive to make our offer interesting, innovative, eyecatching, even fun. Without this, we will be no more than grocers stocking essentials. However, with fewer customers in store, we should be in a better position to monitor footfall and if necessary use encouraging words to ensure delays are minimalised. One idea would be to split the shop, or even an aisle with one side merchandising quick grab-and-go
items and the other side more about inspiration, thereby providing both space and efficiency. Under extremes, it might be useful to close one side but keep the other half open for people to stock up on essentials. What is clear is that while our customers under normal circumstances made their decision to shop with us based on the offer, customer service, price, value, brand, green credentials and any other number of reasons, it’s crucial to know that for many, how you tackle the risk of infection may be the number one reason to shop with you. Regrettably, a stronger focus on operational efficiency versus retail theatre could be a legacy of the pandemic.
EDWARD BERRY, THE FLYING FORK & FORMER MANAGING DIRECTOR OF THE LUDLOW FOOD CENTRE
REFOCUS
No, they don’t! Although your safety advice may be on social media, posts don’t last long in that fast-moving environment. Right now, safety information is what you could class as evergreen content. You’ve got that content, so re-post it! But while you’re doing that, don’t lose sight of getting the personality of your business across online. Put out little videos, top tips, ‘this is what we’re doing in the shop today’, ‘this is what our new member of staff has been up to’ – because that little personalisation will drive people’s connection with you. From a customer experience point of view,
While trade fairs and shows were put on hold during 2020, they look set to return this year. For the time being, though, while restrictions are still in place, there are other options for the intrepid retailer looking for new lines. Philippa Christer, event manager of Speciality & Fine Food Fair says the organisers of the event are looking to provide ways to ensure that experience is not lost in the meantime. “We all love the dynamic business platform that a live fair holds for us, and there is obviously a great deal of excitement at the prospect of opening the doors again on 6-7 September this year. “However, I’m delighted that we are also able to offer year-round initiatives and opportunities to help artisan producers and independent retailers move their businesses forward, so here’s a taster of what’s coming up.” Speciality & Fine Food Fair guest hosts Grub Club – 10th February Speciality & Fine Food Fair will be partnering with the February edition of the highly successful food networking club for buyers and suppliers, where every attendee will receive a box of products; all carefully selected from the show’s 2021 exhibitors. Uncover new products and forge new business connections.
emotional connection is paramount.
you’re differentiating yourself from the multiples on customer safety; keeping those online channels of communication active. If you’re getting tired of the coronavirus crisis, so are most people coming through your doors, so taking the time to ask how they are feeling and getting feedback on how their experience in your store has been is key to maintaining relationships and making positive changes. We’re now in lockdown three and retailers are making assumptions; ‘people are used to it’, ‘it’s just another lockdown’, ‘everybody knows our safety setup and what we’re doing’.
DISCOVER SOMETHING NEW
What is your goal for your customers? What do you want them to say, think and feel about your business this year? When you’ve decided on that, share it with your team. This enables them to drive behaviours that generate great customer experience. It’s difficult at the moment – the whole situation is quite draining and taxing on people, so are you asking your team how they feel? When they come into work, ask them how they’re doing and if they need any support from you as a business. Great employee experience drives great customer experience. And, finally, don’t neglect online reviews! 90% of consumers in the UK will look at online reviews before going to your shop or buying your produce. So, if you’re not checking them, or if you haven’t got any then you’re missing a trick.
Meet the Maker – in partnership with Delishops Discovers –11th - 13th May The third edition of this unique virtual product-sourcing event specifically for independent retailers to discover new producers and innovative products. 45 producers pitching live online over three days. For information on Speciality & Fine Food Fair’s full programme, as well as details on the fair itself, please do contact the team on sfffteam@montgomerygroup.com.
FAIRS & SHOWS Fine Food Show North 17th - 18th October 2021 Yorkshire Event Centre, Harrogate gff.co.uk/shows/ffsn Speciality & Fine Food Fair 6th - 7th September 2021 Olympia London, London specialityandfinefoodfairs.co.uk Farm Shop & Deli Show 5th - 7th July 2021 NEC, Birmingham farmshopanddelishow.co.uk Vol.22 Issue 1 | January-February 2021
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2. IMPROVE SOCIAL MEDIA OUTPUT your posts and using its auto-schedule will work with the algorithms of your VHARI RUSSEL, account to get the best results. MD, THE FOOD Mix up the use of images and MARKETING EXPERTS graphics giving your customers clear calls to actions and reasons to believe thefoodmarketing and reasons to shop with you. experts.co.uk You can also increase the number of stories you add on Facebook and Instagram to get seen more and show To keep things simple, here are three your customers behind things you can fit into a the scenes of your hectic schedule to make businesses. your social media output Collaborate with Look at more effective in 2021. like-minded brands collaborations with likeConsistency is key minded brands to drive post on the same days at to drive awareness awareness, increase your the same time. Use your and increase your following, build brand ‘insights’ to see when is following awareness to a new best to post. audience, and encourage You can use tools user-generated content. such as Later to schedule for three months to create social media content, recipes and more. Things change so quickly, especially with COVID and Brexit looming large that I’m steering away from strategy – we’re thefoodforager.co.uk making tactical adjustments all the time. thymeandtidesdeli. When we’re working with people co.uk like Gill and Val, and with some of the savvier producers we stock, we try to get them to get behind what we’re doing, and we can harness their We don’t really approach social media followers as well. with much of a strategy. I’m quite We wanted to have a against giving these good bank of high-quality things too much strategic images to use across our thought at the beginning, platforms, so we had a because it’s hard to know We’re making tactical adjustments photographer come in to what people are going take some shots for us – all the time to respond to, and you we’ve got about 400 or can end up wasting your so that have real impact time trying to take things that we can use slowly in one particular direction throughout the year. As well as that we when it wants to go in another. make use of the professional shots that Working with Gill [Meller] and Val producers provide us with, which works [Valentine Warner] is about as strategic well. as we get. We’ve got them on board IAIN HEMMING, FOUNDER, THYME & TIDES, THE FOOD FORAGER
publishing them. This doesn’t support brand building, customer following or loyalty. Instead of just selling or promoting, ask yourself would anyone be interested in this? What makes a connection with our customers and taps basuconsulting.co.uk into something they really care about? Once you’ve identified these, remember it’s not all about posting. The one thing producers and retailers In fact, it’s less about posting than it is can do differently with social media this year is to engage – the keyword in social about networking. Reply to comments media is social. rather than click and walk It works best when it’s a away, visit other feeds two-way conversation or It’s less about posting and leave comments, and dialogue. than it is about share on-brand images It’s important to and insights across your be interesting and networking platforms. interested. Too many This will help you businesses use it in the grow a following that is same way as they would about quality, not quantity. websites – crafting sales messages and MALLIKA BASU, FOOD COMMUNICATIONS CONSULTANT AND CO-FOUNDER OF SIZL SPICES
FIVE WAYS TO BUILD YOUR BRAND AJ Sharp, communications consultant and managing director of Sharp Relations, extols the virtues of building your brand without resorting to expensive online advertising sharpenyourbrand.co.uk A brand is an instantly recognisable label for your shop or product range. But how do you build a brand? Not through Facebook or Google Ads, that’s certain. When pay-per-click is the same value as the margin on your product, you’re really just spinning in circles. It is imperative that your communications strategy links back to the objectives of the business. Only with a great actionable plan can you engender loyalty, encourage repeat sales and build a brand which can withstand any storm.
BE STRATEGIC The beginning of the year is the perfect time to review and tweak your business objectives, which will guide your communications activities, but you can do this at any point in the year. Whether you want to reach a new customer demographic, repoint your trade product for consumers, or launch something new, all your communications should work cooperatively.
SOCIAL MEDIA Choose wisely. Great content on one or two platforms is far more influential than poor content spread across every platform. Do make sure you reply to comments, though. It’s all about being social.
PRESS COVERAGE Give interviews, share new product launches, offer opinions, write guest articles and enter awards. Press coverage gives gravitas and credibility like no other form of marketing.
BUILD YOUR BRAND FAMILY Know who your customers are and how to reach them. Use well-timed newsletters, appropriate content and digital tribes to reach out and share relevant news and offers.
GET BETTER PHOTOGRAPHY You should be having new professional shots re-taken regularly, at least twice a year, if not more frequently. Every single section of marketing requires decent high-res photography. Retailers, particularly those with a food offering need new shots every time the menu is tweaked. Vol.22 Issue 1 | January-February 2021
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FOCUS ON
3. GET ON BOARD THE VEGAN BANDWAGON
For a bit of dairy balance, Andy Swinscoe of The Courtyard Dairy suggests some homegrown alternatives to a few of the nation’s favourite Continental cheeses – you know, in case imports get held up... thecourtyarddairy.co.uk
A lot of chefs use Old Winchester as a great alternative in cooking to fit this bill. The aged Doddington from Doddington Dairy is also a fabulous cheese I love to crumble up and use like Parmesan.
If the record number of people signing up to Veganuary this month wasn’t enough to convince you that the plantbased movement is no longer a phase, then other factors such as the huge investment from large multinationals, and the increase in people adopting plant-based foods in lockdown surely point to this movement being firmly in the mainstream. But when considering how to cater to these customers, we suggest incorporating other habits and trends that have emerged from lockdown life to ensure your plant-based retail strategy keeps your customers coming back. Here are our top three tips.
January-February 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 1
MANCHEGO
experiments, so kits that indulge these interests could prove a winner.
It’s not exactly the same but I’d look up the brilliant hard sheep’s cheeses made by the Errington family in Scotland. Their aged Corra Linn has the sweet-nuttiness that we’ve come to love from Manchego and will satisfy lovers of the Spanish classic.
HEALTH Fears surrounding COVID-19 have shone a spotlight on factors such as building strong immunity, heart health and reducing excess weight. Best to keep in mind that just because a food product is plant-based, it does not necessarily mean it is healthy. Savvy consumers will be interested in products with ‘clean labels’, without overly processed ingredients. Consumers are increasingly looking for functional health benefits such as pre- or pro-biotics, fibre, protein, fermented foods, but also those that aid better sleep, digestion and relaxation, whilst still wanting as natural a product as possible. There is also renewed interest in food from the sea in general, as a healthier, safer food choice, so consider stocking plant-based products containing ingredients such as healthy and sustainable seaweed.
Savvy consumers will be interested in products with ‘clean labels’
Staying in is the new going out! During lockdown, people sought comfort in food, followed recipes online, and watched live cook-alongs, then shared their home-made successes on social media. Pairing plant-based products with other ingredients and fresh fruit & veg, coupled with a recipe could help increase sales of multiple products. And don’t just limit kits to dinner. Working from home has become such the norm, that consumers no longer have the option to enjoy breakfast or lunch at a different eatery, or get their morning or afternoon coffee or tea fix from their favourite cafes on their commute or lunch break. Kits that include worktime snacks, teas, coffees and mini indulgences could prove effective. And remember that baking was a huge lockdown trend, with eggless and even flourless cakes proving popular 42
BREXIT CHEESEBOARD
PARMESAN
Sustainable Kitchen’s Julie Cleijne advises on how to get the most out of the burgeoning plant-based market
THE KIT
>>
business improvement
ROQUEFORT It’s hard to find something with power and creaminess of Roquefort but we find three cheeses almost fit the bill and can cover discerning blue cheese-lovers – all sheep’s milk (like Roquefort): Lanark Blue from the Erringtons, the minerally-sweet Beenleigh Blue and the soft, creamy Leeds Blue (pictured).
CAMEMBERT Surely most cheese specialists have heard of Tunworth by now! It gives even the very best Camemberts a run for their money and for a long time has been the staple Camembert alternative for cheese shops.
VALUE FOR MONEY Price and value for money will be huge drivers as we enter a phase postBrexit where food prices are expected to rise. With financial uncertainty, many consumers will be very strongly driven by price, resourcefulness and reduced waste. So creating a kit as part of a ‘special deal’ could attract many customers, as well as stocking products at different price points, and those that represent value for money and promote minimal wastage. sustainablekitchenconsultants.com
FETA When it comes to Feta the fabulous Persian-style feta, Graceburn, from Blackwoods is a must for any cheese shop and discerning chef.
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business improvement
As we approach one year of living and working with COVID, what more can we do to tackle the virus? By Tom Dale
COVID SOLUTIONS
4. BE MORE COVID-SAFE As coronavirus hit in early 2020, independents were some of the first businesses to react and introduce preventive measures, positioning themselves as safer than supermarkets, and this was borne out in a change in shoppers’ habits. But, according to one retail analyst, most retailers have “dropped off” and become complacent. “I think the time comes when you need to call things out,” says Andrew Busby, founder SafePrem. “A lot of places have been paying lip service to COVID measures. The political thing to say is that retail is safe, but that’s not what is going to get everyone back to normal.” So Busby launched SafePrem, a directory of lesser-known products and services to make retail spaces safer, developed the ‘SAFER’ journey (see panel), and is now lobbying the government to give businesses additional funding to utilise some novel anti-viral measures. “The government are compensating businesses with furlough and rates holidays. What we are saying is rather than do that, why not use that money to provide grants to invest in some of this technology to make retail environments safe.” Busby and SafePrem argue that technology such as anti-viral coatings for all touch-points, air-filtration systems and truly effective store-occupancy monitoring can mitigate the risk of the virus “to practically zero”. But one retailer believes the current level of support is sufficient, and that his safety measures are effective. “I don’t think I would be convinced to be doing anything more than we already are – there’s not a product out there that I’m aware of that I would use – and I’d feel guilty asking the government for more money than we already have,” says Rob Copley, co-owner of Farmer
Copleys in Pontefract and chair of the Farm Retail Association. “We’ve been pretty safe all the way through – certainly safer than the supermarkets. But what we have done is we’ve reinforced and upped our game in terms of customer compliance,” said the retailer. Not afraid of innovative COVIDsafe kit, Copley has been using a fogging machine which deploys a fine mist of anti-viral disinfectant, a measure which testing and inspection company, Bureau Veritas recommends in its new COVID-safe certification standard. “Fogging is an area that businesses should be considering to boost their COVID safety,” said Vicky Shah, retail and hospitality
The measures we have at the moment are restrictive and reactionary rather than being preventative and pro-active lead at the company. “Another area where there is often room for improvement is looking for symptoms more proactively in staff and customers.” The business also recommends staffing bubbles in which the same staff members always work together, to minimise the spread of the virus, something which is already in place at Farmer Copleys. “All the staff are working in
groups of three who are on the till together, take lunch breaks together and so on,” said Copley. Proving the method’s effectiveness, one member of staff caught the virus, forcing his bubble to selfisolate, however, neither of the pair tested positive. Despite this, Busby believes that these measures are not sufficient to see a return to normal any time soon. “These are a last line of defence,” he says, “the measures we have at the moment are restrictive and reactionary rather than being preventative and pro-active.” He claims that the government’s strategy of waiting for the vaccine “seems like nonsense” with up to a third of the population claiming they will not accept the immunisation. But costly investment in anti-viral technology seems unnecessary to Copley, whose COVID safety systems seem to be effective. “We have someone on the door ensuring store occupancy isn’t exceeded and who nips around every hour to sanitise all touch-points, we’ve still got our one-way system – and the customers feel safe,” said Copley. “Our messaging on Facebook tries to get across that we’re real people who don’t want to take this virus home to our families, and it’s working.” Whatever you’re doing to combat the spread of the virus, now – as cases are still rising – is the time to reflect on your policy and look for areas to improve. “The point that crystallises people’s thinking,” says Busby, “is when I ask what would need to happen so that we no longer have to wear masks when we’re out shopping. “We need a road map out of this.”
Antimicrobial technology specialist Veraco has designed a range of antimicrobial adhesive pads and wraps to be used on frequently touched surfaces, such as door handles, shopping baskets and handrails. The wraps use silver ions technology – previously used in coatings for hospitals – which works by breaking down the biological make-up of microorganisms. veraco.co.uk
The Tornado B fogging machine from APT, when used in conjunction with the company’s ViroKill anti-viral sanitising solution, can be used to spray a fine virus-killing mist up to 13m vertically. apt-icc.co.uk The Airfixr is an air purifier that fights bacteria, mould, viruses and particulate matter. The device purifies and disinfects the air in a room by using a filter, UV-C light, titanium dioxide and ionisation. airfixr.com/en
THE ‘SAFER’ JOURNEY S secure – bookings and appointment through apps or websites are vital for customers wanting to avoid coming inside A arrival – store occupancy systems – which includes a staff member on the door – are crucial to ensure distancing F feel and touch – touch-points are high risk and need to be sanitised regularly E explore – when people are within the premises, how can you monitor them as they explore the retail space R restoring clean air - we’ve been told that we need to keep spaces ventilated but other options such as UV systems are available (see above) Vol.22 Issue 1 | January-February 2021
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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
Hooting Owl
continues to cause a stir across the country Make your own Gin and drinkers show no sign of calling time on their love affair with the spirit. with so much choice out there, how can branded gin with But, food and drink businesses find the right gin to customers happy? artisan distiller’s keep Hooting Owl Distillery may just have the solution – by allowing them to create their very bespoke service own gin. HOOTING OWL, YORKSHIRE’S premier artisan distillery, develops exclusive, bespoke gin recipes for individual customers, resulting in a gin that is completely unique and can be white labelled with the business’s own design and branding. Although Hooting Owl is perhaps best known for its own-brand gins, its white labelling service is rapidly picking up momentum as businesses look for new and exciting ways to create unique products. “Offering your own branded gin, without the need for your own distillery, is an increasingly popular way of producing quality, branded spirits, and for good reason,” Hooting Owl owner, Dominic M’Benga explains. “For our clients, launching their own gin has proved to boost revenue, increase profit margins and has helped to strengthen their offering and build a brand that sets them apart from the competition.” Hooting Owl’s bespoke gin service has been carefully designed to allow clients to develop a gin to their individual specifications, using preferred botanical flavours that grow locally, or that compliment a specific theme, dish, event or season, for example. Each customer is taken through the distilling process and Hooting Owl believes it delivers a rare personal touch that helps it stand out from other distillers. Not only do the team pride themselves on developing gins that perfectly fit the bill, each recipe and
distilling method is carefully stored at their headquarters so it can be easily reordered but also to safeguard the ingredients, which will not be made available to anyone else. Produced in Hooting Owl’s wellestablished, purpose-built distillery, each white label gin is made to the desired standard, quality and flavour. It’s a process that the distillery has spent time perfecting, “Our Head Distiller works closely with the customer on every aspect of the bespoke gin – from the subtlest of flavours to the bottle shape – to develop a precise gin recipe and production method to suit specific ideas and requirements.” says Dom. “Businesses can then distribute the gin to their own customers from their shop, bar, restaurant or hotel, for example. It’s tried and tested!” Hooting Owl is well versed in gin white labelling and has achieved remarkable results for a range of customers, including independent retailers, bars, hotels and restaurants. The Pipe and Glass pub and restaurant in Beverly, East Yorkshire, has been run by
James and Kate Mackenzie since 2006 and has since gained an international reputation and a host of awards, including a Michelin star in 2010. In collaboration with Hooting Owl, the Pipe and Glass produced a bespoke gin inspired by the scents and flavours found in the grounds of the historical coaching inn. The resulting Vine Tomato & Garden Lovage gin achieved a highly regarded 1-star award in 2020’s Great Taste. “The idea originated from a conversation with Dom during a walk around the gardens at the Pipe and Glass,” explains James Mackenzie, of the Pipe and Glass. “We wanted to create a selection of seasonal gins that reflected the plants we grow in our herbarium, and which regularly feature on our menus. We’ve received fantastic feedback from our customers regarding the unique flavours of the Vine Tomato & Garden Lovage gin, so it’s brilliant to see it recognised by the Great Taste judges.” Evil Eye is a Guinness World Record holding specialist gin shop and cocktail lounge based in the city of York. Offering an astonishing range of gins from all over the world, Evil Eye wanted to add their own branded gin to the extensive list. In partnership with Hooting Owl, Evil Eye developed an award-winning gin which was inspired by owner Shelley Green’s childhood memories of Copenhagen. The unique recipe includes a hint of anise blended with salted, sweet orange to create a gin that perfectly embodies the brand. This gin also received a Great Taste award in 2020.
If you’d like to discuss collaborating with Hooting Owl please contact Dom using the details included and quote this article. The first ten enquiries will receive a free distillation sample.
Dominic M’Benga 07747 036780 dom@hootingowldistillery. co.uk www.hootingowldistillery.co.uk Vol.22 Issue 1 | January-February 2021
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In these changing times we know that proactive advice and the right information is vitally important. At Bishop Fleming we have a team of food & drink specialists ready to support and advise businesses through the Coronavirus Pandemic and beyond.
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January-February 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 1
SHELF TALK Award-winning preserve producer brings brand in line with personality By Tom Dale
An award-winning jam and chutney producer has rebranded to bring its range in line with the owner’s personality and reflect his commitment to supporting mental health services. Matthew’s Preserved owner Matthew Slaughter is the sole employee of the small, Great Taste 3-star-winning company, and the man behind the entire 14-strong range, so decided he needed to reflect something of himself in the branding. “I was told the old brand’s profile was ‘a retired person who liked the finer things in life’, so decided something had to be done,” said Slaughter. The rebrand, said the producer, reflects his core values of preserving the environment and supporting mental health – for the sale of every
jar, the company donates 10p to a mental health charity. “I think it’s important to give something back,” said Slaughter, “As I have used mental health services throughout my life, I deemed it important to align my business with Mind UK.” It is also key for the owner to reflect these characteristics in the products themselves. “I don’t do any conventional ‘British’ chutneys because they are done by others,” he said. “I wanted something unique that stood out from the crowd. Much like me! “My jams and jellies are traditional because it is important to me to use native fruits. Even the unusual ones like quince and crabapple – I think these need to be showcased more to make sure the younger generations don’t lose sight of these traditional hedgerow fruits.” Since starting the business in late 2018, the brand has picked up a raft of awards, including the Startisan of the Year Golden Fork in 2019 for its Spicy Pineapple Chutney and a 3-star award for its Spicy Mango Chutney in Great Taste 2020 as well as being named in last year’s The Times Top 50 Products of the Year and BBC Good Food Magazine’s top three preserves of the year. Matthew’s Preserved’s full range is available to the trade for £2.40 per 250g jar in cases of six (minimum order 36 jars) and has an RRP of £3.99. matthews-preserves.co.uk
Following on from the success of a new retailonly jar of its Great Taste 3 star-winning Cocktail Mix № 6 nut selection, Cambrook has launched the mix in a 140g retail packet. Cocktail Mix № 6 is a salted, smoked, caramelised and spiced mix of baked nuts combining salted cashews and macadamias, chilli battered peanuts, smoke seasoned almonds and caramelised sesame peanuts. The new pack size of the brand’s nut mix – created for Claridge’s Hotel – is part of a 140g range launching in 2021. It will also include Baked Cashews & Peanuts with Chilli & Lime and Cocktail Hour Nuts. The nut mix is suitable for vegetarians and the pack comes with an RRP of £2.99. It is also available in 1kg bulk packets and 170g recyclable glass jars. cambrook foods.co.uk
WHAT’S NEW Just Wholefoods has launched a range of organic, gluten-free home-baking products including brownies, flapjacks and energy balls. The range includes Matcha Pancake Mix (188g; RRP £3.99) made with glutenfree oat flour and organic matcha powder. The lines are sold in cases of six to the trade, and retail between £2.99 & £3.99. justwholefoods.co.uk London-based gourmet popcorn brand Joe & Seph’s has created a make-at-home popcorn kit that enables consumers to make their own salted caramel popcorn. The kit contains four jars of salted caramel sauce (150g), four bags of extra-large mushroom corn kernels (350g) and an instruction booklet and it makes 720g of popcorn. RRP £19.99. joeandsephs. co.uk Dartmoor Whisky Distillery has developed Devon’s first dram at its premises in Bovey Tracey’s former town hall, on the outskirts of Dartmoor. Aged in three different barrels, American oak Bourbon, French oak wine and Spanish sherry barrels, before being cut with pure Dartmoor spring water, the three varieties are available now. dartmoorwhiskydistillery.co.uk
Hot sauce producer backing fight against poaching Artisan sauce producer, Dr Trouble, is launching limited-edition bottles of its African Lemon Chilli and Oak Smoked Chilli sauces, in collaboration with the International AntiPoaching Foundation (IAPF). The IAPF is a non-profit organisation focused on conservation predominantly in Africa, and with each sale of the handmade, allnatural sauce, a donation will go towards IAPF’s anti-poaching and conservation initiatives across Southern Africa – the home of Dr Trouble. As the global COVID-19 pandemic continues and resources become increasingly scarce, wildlife has become especially vulnerable to poachers. By partnering with the sauce brand to make limited edition bottles, the IAPF hopes to raise funds to support the muchneeded expansion of its model across Africa. Rob Fletcher, co-founder of Dr Trouble said: “While creating a unique and delicious product is a top priority for us, so is giving back to communities and protecting what makes Africa so special.” Dr Trouble sauces are handmade in small batches and fermented in glass flagons for 100
days on a farm in Northern Zimbabwe, using ingredients sourced locally by rural villagers the Oak Smoked Chilli and the African Lemon Chilli sauces are made using a recipe which has been in the co-founder’s family for 125 years. The limited-edition bottles and tubes will be available in African Lemon Chilli and Oak Smoked Chilli varieties with an RRP of £10 per bottle from 25th January. drtroublesauce.co.uk
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SHELF TALK WHAT’S NEW The Sweet Potato Spirit Company has introduced three new lines to its awardwinning range: Sweet Potato Gin Krishna – an Indian Spiced Gin inspired by the cuisine of the Krishna River (RRP £31.99), Sweet Potato Honey Moonshine Liqueur – blended with British Honey (RRP £21.99), and Sweet Potato Espresso Rum Liqueur – a double-distilled English rum with a blend of arabica coffee (RRP £23.99). thesweetpotatospiritcompany.com Indie Bay Snacks hopes to shake up the snack market with its crisp-inspired Pretzel Thins a range of crunchy, oven-baked pretzels with 70% less fat and more protein than traditional crisps. Available in three flavours – Barbeque, Sour Cream & Onion, and Lightly Salted – the vegan-friendly snacks come with an RRP of £0.85 per 24g pack. indiebaysnacks.com Maidstone Distillery has launched a toffee liqueur in partnership with the world’s largest toffee manufacturer and neighbours, Sharp’s of Maidstone. The liqueur is available in 70cl, 20cl and 5cl miniatures, with the largest size retailing at £28 (trade £18.66 excl. VAT based on a case of six). themaidstonedistillery.com
My magic ingredient Agretti (monk’s beard) ANDREAS GEORGHIOU Owner, Andreas of Chelsea One amazing thing that’s come out of this virus is that my whole family cooks together now, and our particular favourite at the moment – because it’s just come into season – is agretti, also known as monk’s beard. It’s an Italian, grass-like herb which is very samphire-esque and it’s extremely tasty. Harvested in bunches when young, it’s got a really succulent texture with quite a tart taste and if you dress it with a bit of olive oil, garlic and lemon it’s got a really astonishing flavour. I prefer it to samphire because it’s less salty. It works well in a mix of greens, as a standalone leaf, and it’s particularly good with seafood – it’s excellent with crab or lobster (depending on your budget) or just on the side. Our favourite way to enjoy it is a simple linguine with crab, lemon and plenty of agretti. My daughter has become our oracle of Italian greens and this is one of her favourites – she’ll often just dress it and have it as a meal by itself.
My daughter has become our oracle of Italian greens and this is one of her favourites
Andreas imports his own, but it is available through many good suppliers
Brewery’s COVID lockdown beer glut leads to beer spirit innovation By Tom Dale
When the first national lockdown came into place in March of last year, pubs were forced to close, leaving many breweries with excess cask ales which they were unable to sell. To save pouring it down the drain, one canny Staffordshire beer producer decided to do some experimenting. Great Taste-winning Lymestone Brewery worked with The Beer Barrel Distillery Co. to create a beer spirit from its rich red/black beer Stone the Crows. “We were planning on working with the guys at Beer Barrel, but it was only an idea. Then coronavirus hit and we had loads of beer going,” said Sarah Bradford of the family-run microbrewery. “There was no way we were going to get rid of the beer that we had, so we decided to push it forward and go for it.” The result is Stone the Crows Beer Spirit, a 41% ABV, distilled in The Beer Barrel Distillery Co.’s unique hand-made still, which owners Tim Massey and David Goldingay claim creates a pure spirit retaining characteristics of the original beer and the wood used. 50
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The brewery decided to make a ‘beer spirit’ rather than a whiskey because legally a whiskey has to be aged for at least three years, Bradford told FFD. “Being in a pandemic and needing to keep generating revenue, that wasn’t an option – but we think it’s an amazing product.” Stone the Crows Beer Spirit has an RRP of £37.50 for a 70cl bottle (£19.50 35cl) and trade price of £25.20 excl. VAT (£14.10, 35cl). lymestonebrewery.net
Mr Punch rum punches are a blend of exotic fruit juices and flavours with Wray & Nephew White Overproof Rum from Jamaica. After making rum beverages for years, the brand set up shop officially in summer of last year, and now produces six flavours of the drink: Rum Punch (Strawberry), Black Grape Punch, Sex on the Beach Punch, Pina Colada Punch, Watermelon Punch, Pineapple Punch. The 6% ABV drinks are available in 5l, 2l and 1l plastic kegs, costing £50, £22 and £11 respecitvely (RRPs £60, £28, £15) and are all sold in cases of six. mrpunch.co.uk
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SHELF TALK MEET THE PRODUCER
WHAT’S NEW Two non-alcoholic ‘ready-to-drink’ cans have been launched by Sea Arch Drinks, both using the brand’s trademark Coastal Juniper distilled spirit as the base for the alcohol-free cocktail. Inspired by a G&T, the ‘Sea & T’ is a double measure of Sea Arch spirit mixed with a lightly sparkling Indian tonic, while the ‘Rose Sea & T’ is blended with a rose and raspberry-infused tonic. Each 250ml can has an RRP of £2.35. seaarchdrinks.com
Natalie John and Xhulio Sina are the owners of pre-mixed cocktail brand and bar BOTTLE – producing premium, readymade drinks in small batches without the sugar and additives sometimes associated with pre-mix. FFD speaks to Natalie. What were you doing before you launched Bottle? I was looking after our two boys and Xhulio was managing bars at the Opera House and the Royal Festival Hall. Why did you launch the brand? Xhulio started creating ready-made cocktails about 10 years ago. He had been mixing cocktails at the Royal Festival Hall where the only way to keep the drinks consistent was to pre-batch, and it worked really well. On a personal level, we wanted to start a business we could both be a part of. Xhulio had always wanted to open up a bar and a shop where bottled cocktails would be the star product – he saw bottle shops opening up and thought: why couldn’t we do this, but with bottled cocktails?
From the Hamburg Distilling Company, home of Knut Hansen Dry Gin, is RON Piet – a rum aged in bourbon barrels from Panama for 10 years. The combination of sugar cane from the Panamanian province of Herrera, selected yeast and specially prepared soft water, gives RON Piet rum fruity notes. RRP £30.50 (£20.99, trade). nascorporation.co
three years, we’ve worked really hard to prove that our bottled cocktails can be just as tasty and beautiful as those found in the best bars. We want people to move away from the idea that ready-to-drink cocktails are full of sugar and additives. Why is it important for you to make your drinks from scratch in small batches? To ensure consistency and quality. It’s at the core of what we do. We spend a lot of time working on recipes until we’re 100% sure we’re happy with the cocktail and how it tastes.
What is the biggest lesson you have learned since starting the business? The first is probably to accept that you will make mistakes, and that’s ok! Then, for us, it’s been all about adapting the business and being ready to react fast. This was true preCOVID and now, truer than ever. It’s an ever-moving and -changing feast so it keeps us on our toes. One minute we’re a busy bar and a shop and the next, it’s online sales and home deliveries that are our main earners. We’re lucky our business can be so diverse.
One minute we’re a busy shop and the next, it’s online sales and home deliveries
PureXtracts’ 100% pure Vanilla Extract is rich in antioxidants and high in vitamins. Made exclusively from Madagascan vanilla beans, the extract preserves all bioactive compounds which, the brand claims, is good for heart, skin and gut. The extract is intended for use as a daily supplement or in desserts or teas. purextracts.co.uk
What made you want to own a bar and shop selling cocktails over the counter and off-trade as well? We think there’s a market for small-batch, good-quality drinks like ours – at Bottle Bar and Shop, but also on the shelves of small shops in the UK. What is the best thing about being a small business? That you get to make your own decisions, good or bad! A highlight is being able to support likeminded (and often local) small businesses. …and the worst? That you’re the one who’ll have to pick up the pieces if you’ve made some bad decisions.
What makes your cocktails stand out from others on the market? Our bottled cocktails are all hand-made by us from start to finish. We infuse, mix, create, prepare and bottle up every single one ourselves at our shop. This is a definite point of difference. All of our cocktails are made in small batches which ensures a high level of quality control. This is so important to us. Also, there are no additives or flavours in our drinks, just delicious classic cocktails, made with natural ingredients. We use high-quality brands such as Rock Rose Gin and Holy Grass Vodka to give customers the best drinks experience. Over the past
What is next for Bottle? Keep making great-tasting cocktails. We want to be known for our delicious small-batch cocktails, made with fresh ingredients. We also want to keep supplying small independent businesses who support artisan products like ours. Freshly Ground Sponsor advert 2016 print ready.pdf bottlebarandshop.com
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Hoping to capitalise on the huge growth in cooking at home due to the coronavirus crisis, new smallbatch sauce brand Orriss & Son has launched its debut lines. Three fermented chilli condiments make up the range, created by ex-chef David Underwood: Even Flow – a hot and fruity habanero sauce, My Wave – the brand’s take on a piri-piri sauce, and Fresh Tendrils – a jalapeño and nettle sauce. The sauces have an RRP of £7.25 per 200ml bottle and the brand will make a donation to charity Water Aid with the sale of each bottle. 16/08/2016 10:37 orrissandson.com
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GUILD TALK
View from HQ
By John Farrand managing director
WE’VE BEEN CANVASSING the independent food & drink collective again and the results, like my mood of late, seem to fluctuate wildly. Some businesses are rejoicing at a solid December, others are on their financial knees (see page 12). We are at least open for business, unlike our friends in hospitality. The nail in the coffin (or oak cask) for our village boozer was not only were they instructed to call
news from the guild of fine food time, but the takeaway lifeline was cruelly removed too. While we all accept that stronger measures needed to be introduced, I do find it slightly irksome that the ‘safe’ solution is to endlessly divert people into the crowded supermarkets. And the more we do that the more the new wave of budding gastronauts across the country get used to overly processed, anodyne products created by ‘brand owners’ and marketers who have never seen the inside of a production unit, let alone made any food or brewed a pint. Local pubs selling beer-to-go from a cask to take away makes more sense than corralling everyone into one virus-ridden multiple. It would mean that the money spent would end up in the pockets of local people who care, and unlike the average supermarket, they’d be able to tell you a little bit about who made your pint and how to enjoy it. Charles Campion was a man who knew how to enjoy a pint. He enjoyed most food & drink and understood the nuances of terroir,
The Word on Westminster By Edward Woodall ACS
THE RACE BETWEEN vaccination programme and virus is underway, but the fate of the lockdown status is still unclear. The government is snookered by the sheer number of variables determining the way forward; the speed of the vaccine roll-out and its effectiveness, viral mutations and the behavioural response of the public to opening up, if and when that happens. As a result, we are left with no clarity on the path forward, but it looks increasingly likely that the Government will take a more cautious approach to removing restrictions. Yet again, this puts the Government on a collision course with its backbenchers that are pressing for a roadmap to reopen the economy and our lives.
This tension between the Government and backbenches will be an enduring feature of this Parliament and it has real cutthrough in shaping government thinking. The next test for the Government will be the March Budget, where the Chancellor will set out further support measures for the economy, but also have to make some tough decisions on tax and spending to address high levels of borrowing. In the coming months, we will see lots of pressure and ideas thrown at the Chancellor on how we can recover from the pandemic and you can see our latest thoughts on the ACS website. We have urged the Chancellor to exercise the same caution the government is placing on removing restrictions to introducing new regulatory burdens on business. Those burdens are directly concerning to retailers in the form of new plans to
varietals, breed, production, process and how to put ingredients together to a convivial end. He died just before Christmas and not only will Great Taste and World Cheese miss his palate, but I will miss his
Not only will we miss his palate, but I’ll miss his pithy remarks and comedy timing
Forthcoming dates for Guild events GREAT TASTE 2021
pithy remarks and comedy timing. The sometimes-gruff exterior was, in my opinion, a façade for his shyness and masked a caring man who gave generously of his time to celebrate and promote diversity and excellence in food & drink. We honoured Charles in 2018 with the Contribution to Fine Food award and he is the star of our latest video, What is Great Taste? We will ensure his wonderfully esoteric food and drink memory lives on. restrict the location and promotions of high fat, salt and sugar products. If you are a medium or large business over 2,000 sq ft you will be restricted on the types of products you can put at store entrances, checkouts and end-ofaisles. This will lead to huge costs for retail business to refit stores and greater burdens on suppliers to communicate the nutritional profile of their goods and where they can be stocked in a store. The Government want the policy to be delivered by April 2022, placing huge pressures on food businesses that are still trying to make their way through the pandemic. For anyone impacted by these proposals, you have until 22nd February to make your voice heard about the effect on your business, if you need help doing this, contact me for more information. Edward Woodall is head of policy & public affairs at small shops group ACS edward.woodall@acs.org.uk
Members' fortnight entry Opens: 1st February, 12pm Closes: 15th February, 12pm General entry Opens: 15th February, 12pm Closes: 1st March, 12pm All times GMT Judging April-June Results & feedback Late summer
GREAT TASTE MARKETS 2021
RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show 5th - 11th July RHS Tatton Park Flower Show 21st - 25th July The Game Fair 23rd - 25th July Spirit of Christmas 1st - 7th November Taste of London Festive Edition 18th - 21st November Great Taste winners interested in exhibiting email: sally.coley@gff.co.uk
FINE FOOD SHOW NORTH 2021
Yorkshire Event Centre, Harrogate 17th - 18th October To book, email: sally.coley@gff.co.uk
WORLD CHEESE AWARDS 2021
Oviedo, Spain 3rd - 6th November Entry opens August Entry closes September
The Guild of Fine Food represents fine food shops and specialist suppliers. Want to join them? GENERAL ENQUIRIES Guild of Fine Food Guild House, 23b Kingsmead Business Park, Shaftesbury Road, Gillingham, Dorset SP8 5FB UK Tel: +44 (0) 1747 825200 Fax: +44 (0) 1747 824065 info@gff.co.uk gff.co.uk
THE GUILD TEAM: Managing director: John Farrand Marketing director: Tortie Farrand Sales director: Sally Coley Operations director: Christabel Cairns
Sales manager: Ruth Debnam Sales executives: Becky Haskett Sam Coleman Membership, circulation & awards manager: Karen Price Operations manager: Claire Powell
gff.co.uk
Operations assistant: Meredith White Events manager: Stephanie HareWinton Events assistant: Sophie Brentnall Financial controller: Stephen Guppy Accounts manager: Denise Ballance
Accounts assistant: Julie Coates Chairman: Bob Farrand Director: Linda Farrand
Vol.22 Issue 1 | January-February 2021
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CRESSCO WOULD LIKE TO WISH YOU ALL A HAPPY
NEW YEAR!! AND WHILE WE ARE AT IT WE‘D LIKE TO MENTION OUR:
NEW DEPOT (I N T H E W E S T M I D L A N D S)
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NEW CATALOGUES (B I G G E R & B E T T E R T H A N E V E R)
NEW RANGES (I N C L U D I N G 1 9 N E W S U P P L I E R S)
NEW ACCOUNT MANAGER (W E L C O M E T O C R E S S C O )
A N D ... OUR SAME OLD AWARD WINNING SERVICE D E L I V E R I N G F I N E F O O D, A L W A Y S
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