FFD July 2022 by Guild of Fine Food

July 2022 Volume 23 Issue 6 gff.co.uk

Make it a cracker…

… with our full guide to preparing for Christmas

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

CONTENTS 5

NEWS

Now is not the time to panic. Most of you reading this have been here before.

10 SHOP TALK

15 CHEESEWIRE

By Michael Lane, editor

24 FOCUS ON: CHRISTMAS

Well, we’ve passed the halfway mark of 2022 and anyone that hoped for a slightly gentler ride back to normality this year has probably given up on that idea by now. This already-tumultuous decade has reached the point where some national newspapers are comparing it to the doldrums of the 1970s. Despite my appearance these days (don’t be fooled by the mugshot here), this is not a period of history I am old enough to remember. Frankly, one era is enough for me. And, as churlish as this is going to sound, I’m pretty bored of “uncertainty”. I’m tired of saying the word itself and I get a little fed up with discussing its effect. Plus, it feels like we’re having to reframe it continuously. This month our news section tackles the impact of the fuel crisis on footfall, the Government’s slightly vague food strategy document and the even more

45 FOODSERVICE

52 DELI OF THE MONTH

59 SHELF TALK

67 GUILD TALK

puzzling consultation launched on reverting from metric to imperial measurements. Way back in 1789, Benjamin Franklin famously identified the only two certainties in life as death and taxes. Mr Franklin was clearly not a fine food retailer, because he missed a third thing: Christmas. But while the biggest retail event on the calendar is certainly coming, it is also more plagued with doubt than any other I can remember in the last decade. It might well be the time to start ordering stock, but experienced shopkeepers we’ve spoken to this month are still not entirely sure about their approaches to festive trading. From the sound of it, deli and farm shop buyers are more wary than ever of being left with too much overtly branded Christmas stock that won’t shift. Panettones are normally a good way of gauging sentiment and some retailers are

downsizing to smaller formats, while others are ordering less volume but more premium versions for December. Now is not the time to panic, though. Most of you reading this have been here before. There’s always an element of unpredictability about getting ready for those critical months of the year. In the past, we’ve had the looming spectre of recessions, preBrexit anxiety, post-Brexit anxiety, a global pandemic. We’re facing all of those things right now – and more. But you made it through those Christmases and FFD is here again to try and help you with our feature on Christmas. Product launches, retailing advice, trend predictions. It’s all there, starting on page 24. The best news of all is that you’ve still got plenty of time to get your plan together. Like I said, we’re only halfway through the year.

July 2022 Volume 23 Issue 6 gff.co.uk

EDITOR’S CHOICE Make it a cracker…

Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox, deputy editor

Green Roots

Wine sampler pack

… with our full guide to preparing for Christmas

Cover illustration: Jamie Coe

Much like everyone else, I spent a lot of time in parks during the pandemic. It’s not a habit I’m eager to kick, either. DIY restaurant boxes may never cut it, but I rather enjoy the odd refreshment in the park.

EDITORIAL

ADVERTISING

GENERAL ENQUIRIES

Deputy editor: Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox

Sales director: Sally Coley

Fax: +44 (0) 1747 824065

Editor: Michael Lane

Art director: Mark Windsor

Contributors: Nick Baines, Jamie Coe, Patrick McGuigan, Colin Mearns, Jules Mercer, Lynda Searby, Tom Vaughan

advertise@gff.co.uk

Sales manager: Ruth Debnam

Sales executive: Becky Haskett, ADDRESS Guild House, 23b Kingsmead Business Park Shaftesbury Road, Gillingham, Dorset SP8 5FB United Kingdom

Enter Green Roots. Its range of red, rosé and white wines in a can are the next level of quality from your supermarket fare. The company’s commitment to sustainability, evidenced by the format but backed up by its supply chain, feels like a step in the right direction too. Wasting wine is one of life’s great tragedies – and for the puritans out there, you can always recommend pouring it into a glass. Read more on page 59.

Tel: +44 (0) 1747 825200

Published by The Guild of Fine Food Ltd gff.co.uk

editorial@gff.co.uk

Printed by: Blackmore, Dorset

2022. Reproduction of whole or

part of this magazine without the publisher’s prior permission is

Fine Food Digest is published 11 times a year and is available on subscription for £50 p.a. inclusive of post and packing.

prohibited. The opinions expressed in articles and advertisements are

not necessarily those of the editor

Turn to page 67 for news from the Guild

or publisher.

Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

NEWS WHAT THEY ARE SAYING ABOUT...

By Greg Pitcher

A RETURN TO IMPERIAL

Proposals to bring back imperial measurements in shops have sparked dismay from independent food retailers. Ministers launched a consultation during the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee weekend asking for views on a return to trading using the traditional units. Under law brought in to comply with EU legislation, imperial markings must currently be no larger or more prominent in the UK than metric alternatives, other than in limited specialised fields. But the Government said Brexit had “created an opportunity to take back control of our measurement system”. Questions in the consultation document, which is open to response until 26th August, include asking consumers: “Do you foresee any costs or benefits to you from businesses

Piret Ilver on Unsplash

Indies not impressed with proposal to revive imperial measurements

The Government has launched a consultation on whether shops should return to trading in imperial measurements

being permitted to sell solely in imperial units?” Jennie Allen, owner of west London deli chain Bayley & Sage, described the proposals as “crazy”. “No-one understands what pounds and ounces are,” she said. “My staff definitely don’t remember imperial measurements – lots of them are nonEnglish. Why would we go back?” As well as staff training there would be a raft of logistical headaches for retailers, Allen added. “It would mean a

Swedish discounter Motatos enters the UK market Online discount food retailer Motatos has launched in the UK, offering deals on a number of products found in independents as well as the multiples. The Swedish firm, which launched eight years ago and has forecast revenue of €100 million (£86m) this year, aims to disrupt the groceries market in this country – and its website already features a number of brands that are carried by some delis and farm shops. Motatos buys products that distributors are struggling to sell due to packaging or seasonal changes or short shelf life and offers them online at a discount. Motatos Founder, Karl Andersson said: “There’s so

much opportunity here for consumers to help reduce waste while reducing their weekly spend, meaning they don’t have to choose between price and being environmentally-conscious. “Shopping with Motatos is good for the planet and good for the wallet.” A Motatos spokesperson told FFD the firm aims to work with food producers directly to “solve challenges connected to overstock, production loss and waste”. Stocking independent labels at discounted prices is a key plank of the firm’s strategy, they added. “On Motatos you’ll find a range of products from well-known brands but also hidden gems from indie brands that you may have never heard of before.”

new till, reprogramming everything, creating new price tickets. We are so vary-weight, with fresh fruit and veg, cheeses, marinades – it would be a nightmare.” She added: “We are all struggling for staff. We have enough on our plate without additional work for no gain to anybody. No one has ever asked us to bring back pounds and ounces.” Jen Grimstone-Jones, co-owner of Berkshirebased Cheese Etc, said the imperial system was not as intuitive as metric.

“We have a young lad who works on a Saturday and if someone asked him for half a pound of something he would assume they meant 50-pence worth,” she said. “Our till software is all geared up for grams and kilograms – we would have to invest in new technology to be able to deal with an outdated measuring system.” The British Independent Retailers Association said the consultation was “a waste of taxpayers’ money” that could cause “unnecessary ramifications for businesses”. Chief executive Andrew Goodacre said: “Trying to bring back a focus on imperial measurements is a pointless and unproductive initiative. The time and money spent on this nonstarter would be better used on supporting indie retailers facing recessionary pressures and real business concerns.

Small producers win big at Aberdeen awards Ellon Spirits, Raw Culture and Summerhouse Drinks were among the big winners at the 2022 North East Scotland Food & Drink Awards. Delivered in partnership by Opportunity North East and Aberdeenshire Council, the Awards were handed out at a ceremony last month at The Chester Hotel, Aberdeen, with an audience of 250 hosted by broadcaster and musician, Dougie Vipond. The Best New Product (Emerging Business) went to Raw Culture for its Hop Infused, while a Pumpkin Soda made by Summerhouse Drinks won the Best New Product (Small Business) category. Ellon Spirits was named Best Young Business. Full results at nesfoodanadrinkawards.co.uk

JEN GRIMSTONEJONES, CHEESE ETC, PANGBOURNE

“I have no issues with shops displaying prices in both metric and imperial and I would never refuse a customer who asked for imperial measures but I feel quite strongly that shops shouldn’t be made to revert to a system that the majority of people don’t understand.” JENNIE ALLEN, BAYLEY & SAGE, LONDON

“What a load of nonsense. No-one understands what pounds and ounces are. When I tell people I went to school when it was pounds, shillings and pence they look at me in a bizarre way. Even our older customers talk metric now; we all know our weight in kilos and our height in centimetres.” JENNIFER HORTON, CORBRIDGE LARDER, HEXHAM

“I think it is crazy to force retailers to go back to pounds and ounces. Our EPOS system works on kilogram prices so it would be a lot of unnecessary work to change – especially at a time when we have enough on our plate with a failing economy, anxious customers and the Ukraine situation.” Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

NEWS

CYBER CRIME

Fuel prices starting to impact indie retailers’ sales patterns By Greg Pitcher

The dramatic increase in fuel prices is having a noticeable effect on footfall

How retailers can counteract cost-of-living crisis Independent food retailers can use psychological framing techniques to influence buyer behaviour, according to consultant Philip Graves. “When times are hard, people have been more inclined to spend more on perceived treats that they can justify as ‘less than they would have spent’,” he said. “For example, having a pizza delivered rather than going out to a restaurant.” His three top tips are: *Range framing: think about how products you sell are framed by others. If you sell a very premium steak, a less premium 6

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

the Dorset-based outlet was “definitely quieter”. She added that tourism was massively reduced in the area’s seaside towns. Cossins said people were more likely to drive to a supermarket where they could buy all their groceries in one trip – and potentially fill up with relatively affordable petrol – rather than drive around the countryside to specialist retailers. Jennifer Latuperisa-Andresen on Unsplash

The soaring cost of petrol is now dampening demand for many independent retailers as well as continuing to create supply-side challenges. Leading figures from across the sector have warned that customers are driving less and restricting their spending in store. It comes as the costof-living crisis rages, with consumer price inflation rising to 9% and the price of filling an average family car hitting £100. Clare Jackson, director of Suffolk-based Slate Cheese, told FFD: “Speaking to customers in the shops, people are using their cars less. “We are getting slammed on all fronts – the local holiday cottages are not fully booked, there are not so many day trips and even those who are coming are bringing their own picnics rather than buying from us.”

As well as noticing increasingly cost-conscious behaviour from customers, Slate is being squeezed by suppliers hiking prices in light of their own economic challenges. “We can’t offer huge promotions so we are trying to make the experience as high-value as we can to encourage footfall,” said Jackson. Barbara Cossins, owner of Rawston Farm Shop, said

IN BRIEF

one, which is still more expensive than those in a supermarket, may feel like a better proposition. *Offer framing: discounting products creates a frame. Make sure the pre-discounted price is visually prominent. If customers get used to finding items they perceive as good value, it may create the desire to return. *Alternative framing: Simply putting in shoppers’ minds the comparison of eating at a fine restaurant against eating at home with fine ingredients can help to shape how they think about the price being charged.

“I think the hardest thing is that businesses are so unsure of what the future holds, especially the small independents who are not getting the footfall,” she said. “I was dreaming only the other night that I needed to buy a minibus and go and pick up my customers myself.” Consumer behaviour consultant Philip Graves said decisions about when to drive and where to fill up with petrol were being taken “more consciously than before”. “The rapidly increasing pump prices, appreciable extra cost to fill the car and media coverage mean that consumers are giving more attention to fuel prices than previously,” said Graves. “For small independents like delis and farm shops, this is likely to be problematic.” The British Retail Consortium found that food sales fell 1.3% on a likefor-like basis in the three months to May.

Prestat Group has acquired fellow London-based premium chocolatier Rococo Chocolates. Prestat is part of Gruppo Illy, which also owns the Domori chocolate brand. A new development on The Stuntney Estate in Cambridgeshire is seeking specialist food & beverage businesses as tenants. Slated to open in spring 2023, Ben’s Yard will comprise 1,850 sq m of retail space. Carter Jonas is the leasing agent for the scheme. Manchester deli Salvi’s is opening a new outlet in the city’s Deansgate Square. The retailer, which already has a location in the Corn Exchange, has created a 280 square metre Italian food hub complete with a restaurant and outdoor seating.

IGD forecasts double-digit inflation in the price of food Food inflation could hit 15% this summer, sector analysts IGD have reported. The retail research specialist warned that the UK economy is facing its strongest period of pressure on prices since the 1970s. IGD said food inflation would likely persist well into next year due to several factors including the impact of the war in Ukraine and the supply chain challenges sparked by Covid-19. It questioned the effectiveness of monetary and fiscal policy and warned the UK was exposed by a reliance on imports and the impact of Brexit. The average family of four will spend £439 per month on groceries by January 2023, the analyst

15% the figure IGD

is predicting

f o o d

inflation could hit this

summer warned, up from £396 at the start of this year. Meat, cereal, dairy, fruit and vegetables are likely to see the sharpest increases, according to IGD, with any products reliant on wheat – including white meats –

likely to see prices soar in the short term. IGD chief economist James Walton said: “We’re unlikely to see the costof-living pressures easing anytime soon. This will undoubtedly leave many households – and the businesses serving them – looking to the future with considerable anxiety. “We expect the mood of shoppers to remain bleak for the foreseeable future as they are impacted by rising inflation and a decline in real wages. Shoppers are likely to dial up moneysaving tactics as far as possible.” The report also warned that the predicted rate of inflation was likely to push the UK economy into recession or stagflation.

S I Z E D O E S N ’ T M AT T E R It’s what you do with it that counts. Every thing in our new charcuterie range is traditionally-made, perfectly aged and well-hung.

First in fine for 30 years: fine cheese, fine charcuterie, fine crackers, fine condiments, fine chocolates... 2

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

BUSINESS FOR SALE

THE EVERYDAY, THE INDULGENT, THE DELICIOUS, THE LOVELY LUDWELL STORES is up for sale. After 15 years of running this wonderful 200 year old award-winning store, Jo & Phil have decided to hang up their aprons. The Stores is so much more than a Village Shop, it is a way of life. It is important not only to the villages that it serves but also to many, many committed local suppliers. Jo & Phil have tried to build the business based on best quality, low miles and a high ethical stance. They have combined this with the local need for everyday essentials. Ludwell Stores is still a village shop at heart.

Established chutney, conserves and sauce business based in the East Midlands.

Turnover of £125k. Fully fitted leasehold premises with all equipment, recipes and customer contracts.

For more information about this premium ingredient-led grocery store, visit: ludwellstores.co.uk/for-sale

Huge opportunity for expansion and to move the business forward. Looking for offers over £85k + stock as valued.

Interested to know more? Email: picklessale@gmail.com

? y d a e R s Christma Get Christmas all wrapped up and everything sorted well in advance, so you can CHILL and put your feet up.

Eco-Box

Icer-Pack

Foil-Box

Between 0-8°C for up to 48 hours

100% recyclable

Between 0-8°C for up to 48 hours

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

01978 661 247 | www.icertech.co.uk | sales@icertech.co.uk

PLE

EE S

MPL

LE •

AVA I L

MPL

Prices from £0.15

Re-usable and recyclable

Produced using 30% recycled material

100% kerbside recyclable

NEWS

Industry reacts with disappointment to Government’s food strategy

Luke Thornton on Unsplash

By Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox

Reaction from the independent trade to the Government’s food strategy has echoed the disappointment expressed by key players in the food and drink industry – but there could also be some potential positives for the speciality food market. Business leaders told FFD that the Food Strategy White Paper released last month was a “huge missed opportunity” to back smaller producers, while others were surprised to see healthy eating initiatives cut back. Restaurateur Henry Dimbleby, commissioned to extensively research the National Food Strategy report three years ago, expressed his frustration that just half of his recommendations had been taken on. Paul Hargreaves, founder

Clarkson’s farm hits another planning snag TV presenter turned celebrity farmer Jeremy Clarkson has called for farming regulations to be eased after receiving another contravention notice for work on his Diddly Squat Farm Shop. In his Times column, the broadcaster said he had received a direct message from the Prime Minister about his efforts to promote the food and farming sectors, but that current planning rules are at odds with Boris Johnson’s claims. “I’m trying to farm. I’m trying to grow food. And you simply would not believe how many times every single day I come across another rule that says that I can’t,” he said.

of wholesaler Cotswold Fayre, told FFD the document was “a huge disappointment”, with the Government The Government says it wants to promote appearing sustainable food production in the UK to favour Government would instead big business focus on incentivising the interests over smaller food development of “alternative companies. proteins” like edible algae, The paper did not insects and lab-grown meat. address Dimbleby’s Another key omission is suggestion for a strategy Dimbleby’s proposed levy to cut meat and dairy on food & drink high in consumption by 30%, as the fat, sugar, and salt (HFSS) Prime Minister promised to fund healthy eating “to not lecture people” on initiatives for children. the subject. Shane Godwin, MD at For Hargreaves, who also Kent food hall Macknade, runs Flourish Food Hall, this said that he was surprised was a major point missing to see the Government from the plan. “Even postpone the measure given our butcher here would the efficacy of the 2018 encourage people to eat less sugar tax to force change on meat but eat better meat big multinationals. when they do,” he said. Godwin added that the Environment Secretary plans to increase domestic George Eustice said the

DOWN ON THE FARM Planning permission was filed in April for a farm shop on the grounds of The Horse Inn Hurst in Sussex. Should the project be given the all-clear, the 30 square meter site will stock local fruit and vegetables as well as meals and baked goods prepared by the pub’s kitchen team. thehorseinnhurst.co.uk In 2020, Jolly Nice Farm Shop in Gloucestershire opened an emergency drive-through to ensure locals could safely pick up their food, coffee and cakes. It was such a success that they recently invested in a new kitchen, wooden serving hatches and a driving lane large enough for a tractor. jollynicefarmshop.com

Malhamdale’s Town End Farm Shop in Skipton won the title of ‘Best in Region’ for Yorkshire and the North East at the recent Farm Shop & Deli Show, which recognises specialist retailers doing good through sustainable initiatives and support for their customers, communities and suppliers.

food production, focusing on innovation, technology and sustainability, were positive and an opportunity for independents. “Once we’ve ascertained whether there is a true market there, we’re small enough and agile enough to be able to do that,” he said. “People come here to find different and niche products – and if they tick the boxes of sustainability and ethics, we really do welcome it.” Among the whitepaper’s inclusions is a focus on future free trade agreements, which could drive lowquality imports. Paul Hargreaves said independents could benefit from this strategy, standing “with their head above the parapet” should the food standard go down in supermarkets, “but that’s not a reason to embrace the legislation. We would rather the standard was better overall.”

The document at a glance •Plans to introduce a tax on products high in fat, sugar and salt (HFSS) were postponed amid the cost-of-living crisis •The Government committed to invest £270 million into farming innovation and £120 million in research, including into alternative protein development, gene editing and methane-reducing feed • The Government said it also aims to protect British production standards in future trade agreements but published its statement on independent animal health and production with fewer commitments to animal welfare and sustainability than in the original draft.

The latest from farm shops across the country Town End was praised for supporting fellow businesses, making its own charcuterie, and coming up with novel, sustainable solutions to support its staff, community and local producers. townend farmshop. co.uk

relaunched with a new name: Harvey Browns. The new outlet overlooks the Lakes at Hale Manor Farm in Arreton and features a food hall, butchery and café. harveybrowns.co.uk

Farmer Jack’s Farm Shop on the Isle of Wight has moved to a new location and In association with

Fabulous Farm Shops fabulousfarmshops.co.uk

Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

SHOP TALK IF I’D KNOWN THEN WHAT I KNOW NOW... RACHNA DHEER,owner and founder, Starter Culture, Shawlands, Glasgow Ten years ago I opened Babu Bombay Street Kitchen, introducing authentic Bombay street food to Glasgow. In search of good cheese, I was constantly having to travel to the West End, as there were no options in the South Side where I live. That was how Starter Culture came about. In 2018, I found premises and, after a costly and lengthy transformation, the shop opened its doors in September 2019. Covid hit a few months later, so this has been our first year of operating without any restrictions. Interestingly, the pandemic had a positive impact on the business. When people weren’t able to go out, artisan cheese and wine became their treat and we were able to meet that demand by being agile. In many ways it’s a more challenging environment now. Our suppliers are increasing their prices and consumers are sticking with their money while no longer relying as heavily on their local suburban shops. Our strategy for dealing with these price increases is to offer some products at a cheaper rate – products that people specifically come in for – and give them guidance on our artisan offering while they are there. You can’t put the prices up on everything. In this climate, you’ve got to think outside of the box. We are launching monthly tasting nights, starting with a craft cider & artisan cheese evening. Tickets are £40, which includes five craft ciders and five artisan cheeses as well as a 10% discount on any products purchased. We are also introducing picnic boxes (priced at £15) this summer, which we can deliver to the park. You can’t afford to wait for customers to come to you; you have to think of ways of getting out to them. Festivals are another great opportunity and a one-hit cash injection. We will be at the Fringe this year with our grilled cheese sandwiches. Consumers have so much choice available to them, it is important to also offer something different. Minger cheese is always a talking point due to its pungent aroma and the name itself, as is our single cask malt whisky. From my street food business background, working at the markets, I know a lot of microproducers. We work with them directly rather than sourcing products via wholesalers. Dealing directly with suppliers is time-consuming but worth the effort. My street food business taught me that quality is paramount, even if that means travelling to London to source ingredients. Quality has been a differentiator before, and I am confident it can be again. Interview Lynda Searby Photography Colin Mearns

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

CONFESSIONS OF A DELI OWNER ANONYMOUS TALES FROM BEHIND THE COUNTER WE SELL COFFEE and reusable coffee cups, tea but not teapots, camembert and camembert bakers. ‘Yes’ to wine but ‘no’ to wine glasses. We don’t sell fish or sushi mats. We do sell pottery-type stuff – but only at Christmas. Non-food is a funny old game, really. Where do we draw the line? I was getting a sandwich in a café the other day. It was a standard narrow retail unit, kitchen at the back the other side of a counter, tables on each side between the door and the counter. They had dedicated one of the tables and a bit of wall space to cards and small pottery from a single brand (not known to me). It was not in keeping with the place, nobody would have guessed they did cards and pottery. It got me thinking. When is it a good idea to make a real departure from my norm? For this café, the pottery seemed like a reach. They didn’t have stock-appropriate display units and they lacked merchandising skills. It all seemed a bit out of place. Perhaps the owner was the artist, hence the shoehorning of this display. It just didn’t seem relevant.

MODEL RETAILING Don’t mind us, Mr Deli. We’ll just be digging up the road for the next two weeks

If I want to try something new... I creep up on it, like a leopard in the night, stalking my prey But on the other hand, a “give it a go mentality” is good in retail. I, possibly like you, have tried branching out. Perhaps you’ve tried a fish counter in your farm shop, or stay-fresh storage bags next to your lettuce, or those reusable coffee cups (which have been a big success for me, by the way). These extra add-ons that push up basket spend are good practice. I dip my toes in a every now and again. But the big leaps into a new department usually require a bit more

investment than it first appears. Maybe it is new display equipment, adverting committment or new team skills. It just isn’t easy. Plenty of deli owners will mention the curious randomness of what sells where. Ask any small producer that has more than five minutes’ experience and they will tell you stock can shift like ice creams on a hot day in one shop, and stick like glue in another apparently similar one. To avoid getting lumped with stuff I can’t sell, I try to think of new departments as extensions of my territory, not disconnected islands of interest. If I want to try something, I grow towards it slowly using my existing ranges. I creep up on it like a leopard in the night, stalking my prey until it is so close I can smell it. Okay, okay. Putting it like that seems a bit dramatic when you consider that my next foray is into reusable wax sandwich pouches for our food-to-go. But if that works, I may expand the wax wrap range. Gently does it.

SOLVING EVERYDAY SHOPKEEPING DILEMMAS. IN MINIATURE. Here you go, lads. Would you like a coffee?

Yes, please.

Actually. Free coffee for anyone who comes into the shop during the next fortnight!

How kind! Oh no, this timing is so lousy. I feeling like swearing at them. No, wait…

FFD says: If the last two-and-a-half years have taught us anything, you can’t control most of the things that will disrupt your footfall. You just have to adapt. Try to work with these hindrances and turn them to your advantage. Free coffee (or some other incentive) solves a myriad of problems and will help to keep everyone more happy – whether it’s those construction workers or your customers. With kind permission of Geobra Brandstätter Stiftung & Co. KG, Germany. PLAYMOBIL is a registered trademark of Geobra Brandstätter Stiftung & Co. KG, for which also the displayed PLAYMOBIL toy figures are protected.

Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

SHOP TALK

CODE OF PRACTICE

WHAT’S TRENDING NICK BAINES KEEPS YOU UP TO DATE WITH THE NEWEST DISHES, FLAVOURS AND INNOVATIONS IN FOOD & DRINK

Technical and regulatory advice from the Guild of Fine Food’s Assured Code of Practice for Deli Retailing This month we take a look at... waste management • Full requirements for businesses handling food waste are outlined in Regulation (EC) No 852/2004 on the hygiene of foodstuffs, Annex II, Chapter VI. • To facilitate the prevention of contamination, a waste disposal contract must be in place with a licensed refuse collection company. • Waste must be removed regularly during working hours, as and when required, and placed in outside bins. Refuse and waste food must not be left overnight inside.

• The bins must be cleaned and disinfected to reduce accumulation of bacteria and odour. Broken glass/crockery should be placed in a sealed plastic container before disposal. • Outside bins must be kept in a secure location, away from the food delivery area and in an accessible location so that refuse collectors can get to them easily. • The bins should be placed on a hard standing that should be swept and cleaned weekly, as part of the cleaning schedule.

Producer’s View

in advertising is common, you don’t often see ‘artigianale’ used to describe industrial foods in Italy. One reason may be that the country has an active agricultural and food fraud police force. But perhaps it’s because ‘artisan’ is an ethos. At Seggiano, we see plenty of traditional Italian foods that can’t be improved upon but we also continuously discover new elements that redefine artisan production. For example, the simple dough preparation, shaping and baking of our Lingue flatbreads remains unchanged. Meanwhile, our latest tomato passata is cooked in a temperaturecontrolled vacuum to minimise heat stress and maintain antioxidants. Whatever the method, provenance is the cornerstone. There is no place for commodity ingredients or anonymity of origin in something labelled as artisanal. For us and Italian producers, ‘artisan’ also means small-scale, minimally processed and free of shortcut additives used to speed up production or lengthen shelf life. An artisan panettone takes 36 hours to make, and a genuine chocolate nut spread is sieved and mixed for hours on end to blend the fats and liquids together, in lieu of quick-fix emulsifiers. This is real food. It costs more but delivers better nutrition and a considerably more enjoyable taste experience, while meeting modern challenges like shelf-life stability. That’s what artisan really means.

‘Artisan’ is a word or concept invoked often in food marketing, both subtly and overtly. In the UK, the term is widely appropriated on food packaging, especially in the baking industry to push factory-produced food. We’ve all witnessed scenes of romantic country life in advertisements, and the allusion to foods being somehow lovingly handmade for us. Rarely are such cases challenged and it remains understandably tricky to police the use of the word ‘artisan’ and, harder still, the use of allusion and image. That said, ‘artisan’ no longer particularly means contact with the human hand, which is more literally described by saying ‘handmade’. Where it once referred to traditional craftsmanship of objects by hand, in English-speaking nations it now commonly describes the way food is produced, the care and attention given to the quality of a product and to its authenticity as a curated, non-industrial food. While the usual hype and hyperbole July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

• Aprons should be removed before handling waste or cleaned and disinfected afterwards. Hands must be washed after handling waste.

Aprons should be removed before handling waste or disinfected afterwards

PERI EAGLETON, CO-FOUNDER OF SEGGIANO, EXPLORES HOW WE DEFINE THE WORD ‘ARTISAN’

• Lidded bins, with bin liners, should be used to store waste inside. The types of bins present should be based on the potential for crosscontamination. The bin liners must be sealed properly and disposed of in outside bins.

The guide is available in PDF format and is free for Guild members. For non-members, it costs £250+VAT. To request a copy of the Code of Practice, or for further information, email support@gff.co.uk

1 New-wave Chinese We have a longstanding relationship with Chinese food here in the UK, but it tends to be a simplified mix of Cantonese cooking partnered with Peking duck. However, restaurateurs are beginning to set their sights on the unsung corners of Chinese food. Fatt Pundit has recently opened a second site, specialising in IndoChinese cuisine – hefty momo dumplings, pakora potatoes and a wealth of noodles. Meanwhile, Chinatown’s Bun House is expanding and is now serving up its steamed, meat-filled buns in Camden. At the fine dining end of the spectrum, lauded chef John Javier will soon open All Under Heaven in East London, a high-end Sichuan-Cantonese restaurant. 2 Mushroom crisps A recent addition to the plant-based snack category, mushroom crisps are proving a force to be reckoned with. One of the standout launches at this year’s Fancy Food Show in the US was Popadellics. Replete with on-point branding, this crunchy mushroom snack comes in flavours like Thai chilli, rosemary & salt, and truffle parm. Closer to home, the UK’s Otherfoods are in on the action, too. Seasoned only with salt, its lines include single variety mushroom crisps made from oyster, shiitake and trumpet varieties. 3 Bringing shandy back While low-ABV beers are certainly a thing right now, another yesteryear classic is being revived. Shandy is being explored by independent brands, alongside imports of classic Radler-style beers from the likes of Germany’s Stiegl. Oxfordshire’s Shandy Shack puts out an elderflower lager-top, IPA shandy, and a pale & ginger, all clocking in at under 3%. The brand recently closed a second round of funding. Could this be the summer of shandy?

THE

GUIDE TO

AMERIC AN PIES

MISSISSIPPI MUD PIE

BOSTON CRE AM PIE

Made with rivers of chocolate, this pie resembles the muddy banks of America’s famous Mississippi and became a national treasure because of the association. Waterway to go mainstream.

A Boston Cream Pie consists of sponge cake, vanilla custard and chocolate ganache. A Boston Tea Party consists of 92,000 pounds of tea, one harbour and a number of unhappy Brits.

STR AWB ERRY CHEESECAKE

KEY LIME PIE

New Yorkers are insistent their rich and creamy cheesecake is the greatest in the world. An out-of-character boast from the usually shy and retiring residents of the big apple.

The Florida Keys lie close to the Caribbean island of Cuba. A slice of Key Lime Pie costs $3 in Cuba, $4 in the Bahamas and $5 in Jamaica. These are the pie rates of the Caribbean.

Meet the new range from Miller’s. Miss American Pie, bite-sized biscuits inspired by American desserts.

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

New products added to Contact David / Karen for details the range TEL: 01935 83883 E: sales@capreolusfinefoods.co.uk Uphall Farmhouse, Rampisham, Dorset, DT2 0PP

SMOKED MUTTON

DORSET COPPA

GUANCIALE

CHORIZO

SMOKED PANCETTA

PANCETTA

WWW.CAPREOLUSFINEFOODS.CO.UK

#trufflerevolution STEFANIA CALUGI SELECTS AND SELLS THE BEST TRUFFLES OF THE TUSCAN TERRITORY. THE “APERITARTUFO” IS A SPECIAL LINE OF PRACTICAL AND EASY TO EAT SNACKS, TO ENRICH COCKTAILS AND APERITIFS AND TO AMAZE WITH HIGH QUALITY PRODUCTS, READY FOR USE.

More than truffles?

SCAN NOW. TASTE OUR SELECTION!

Aperitartufo I TA LY

0% MAD

ITPI

www.tartufi.it

C T I F I C AT E ER

We proudly satisfy italian and international safety food standards

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

VBD

CHEESEWIRE

news and views from the cheese counter

Group launched to assist EHOs with raw milk cheesemaking concerns By Patrick McGuigan

The Specialist Cheesemakers Association (SCA) has launched a new technical group to discuss “areas of concern” with environmental health officers (EHOs) that have raw milk cheesemakers in their area. Thirty-one EHOs from England, Scotland and Wales joined the first online working group at the end of May, which was chaired by dairy consultant and SCA technical committee member Paul Thomas. “I wouldn’t say there’s a hostile environment to raw milk cheesemaking in the UK, but there are some EHOs that are wary of raw milk cheeses and can get quite nervous,” he told FFD. “Raw milk cheese poses unique challenges, and we need

to demonstrate that safety can be effectively managed.” The SCA said the group had been set up to discuss “areas of concern, emerging problems and food safety management specific to this type of cheesemaking”, with topics raised at the first meeting including Shiga-toxinproducing E-coli and Bovine TB. While making cheese with raw milk is legal in the UK, new cheesemakers are sometimes strongly advised to pasteurise their milk by EHOs. Five Scottish cheesemakers also successfully overturned new Food Standards Scotland guidance on raw milk cheese production in 2019, which they argued would effectively regulate raw milk cheese out of existence in Scotland.

The group has been set up to guide EHOs through tricky issues around raw milk cheesemaking processes

Yorkshire Pecorino made raw milk cheese when it launched 10 years ago, but was swiftly advised to pasteurise by the local EHO. “They had no experience of cheesemaking in the area, so were very wary,” said owner Mario Olianas, who still uses pasteurised milk today. “They completely discouraged me from using raw milk and I thought it was better to agree.” Other well-known British cheesemakers have switched from raw milk to pasteurised in recent years including Neal’s Yard Creamery and Norton & Yarrow. Fraser Norton, co-owner of Norton & Yarrow, who makes Sinodun Hill and Brightwell Ash, told FFD that the decision to pasteurise last year came after encountering a number of low-level issues with the quality of milk being bought in. This resulted in whole batches of cheese being thrown away. “It’s very expensive to do that, leaving us with a big hole in our cash flow and affecting consistency of supply,” he said. “It can cost as much as £10,000 to 15,000 when an issue with quality occurs in the milk, which is a huge amount for a small business.”

NEWS IN BRIEF Vegan ‘cheesemonger’ La Fauxmagerie has signed a deal to supply Waitrose stores nationwide with vegan cheese alternatives, including Shoreditch Smoked, Truffle Camemvert, Betta Feta, and Brixton Blue. Dairy Crest, owned by Saputo, has admitted 21 pollution incidents, including discharges of waste into the River Inny, and permit breaches at its Davidstow Creamery in Cornwall, where it makes Cathedral City. The company was due to be sentenced as FFD went to press. Around 100,000 wheels of PDO-protected Parmesan are to be fitted with tracking chips in an initiative to prevent fraud. The scheme will help the Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium differentiate between authentic and fake cheeses.

Morgan McGlynn, owner of Cheeses of Muswell Hill and regular face on Channel 4’s Sunday Brunch, has written a new guide to cheese pairing and creating delicious cheeseboards. The Modern Cheeseboard, Pair Your Way to the Perfect Grazing Platter is published by White Lion this month and features 40 cheeseboards with information on the cheeses, the accompaniments and garnishes. cheesesonline.co.uk

THREE WAYS WITH...

Spenwood

Created in the 1980s, Britain’s take on Pecorino, Spenwood from Village Maid Cheese in Berkshire is now hailed as a modern classic. Made with thermised sheep’s milk, the hard pressed cheese is aged for six to nine months until it has a supple texture and nutty flavour, becoming more piquant over time.

Pecorino White wines made with the Pecorino grape variety in Marche and Abruzzo, Italy, have a racy acidity and interesting stone fruit and herbaceous notes that make them a refreshing match with hard sheep’s milk cheeses. The sharpness of the wine cuts across the salty, savoury elements of Spenwood, while the fruitiness emphasises the cheese’s sweet notes. Truffle hazelnuts Truffles and sheep’s milk cheeses have a natural affinity as demonstrated by Italian flavoured cheeses like Pecorino al Tartufo and Moliterno. There’s also a lovely nutty quality to Spenwood that make Tartuflanghe’s truffle-flavoured hazelnuts a no-brainer as an accompaniment. The roasted and salted nuts from Piedmont, coated in truffle juice, ramp up the nuttiness of the cheese and add a layer of mushroomy perfume and a pleasing crunch. Ramen Noodles might not be an obvious cheese partner, but restaurant group Bonedaddies begs to differ. The London chain developed a special ramen dish in collaboration with the Cheese Bar last year, topped with grated Spenwood. Combining with homemade pork broth, fried pork belly, soy egg, sesame pesto, chilli oil, beansprouts and Tokyo noodles, the cheese acted like extra seasoning – upping the umami and adding richness. Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

CHEESEWIRE

news and views from the cheese counter

Import issues and local demand boost Highland Fine Cheeses’ sales

Jon Broadhurst, Cheese & Friends at the Silverhill Larder, Sheffield

By Patrick McGuigan

Highland Fine Cheeses has seen a 25% increase in sales, which it says has been helped by disruption to imported cheeses caused by Brexit and growing demand for local food. The Tain-based cheesemaker, which supplies delis, farm shops and supermarkets including M&S and Waitrose, saw sales rise to £1.9m in the year to May, an increase of around 25% on the year before. Owner Rory Stone said the business had seen sales jump partly because of disruption to the flow of Continental cheeses, caused by delays at customs, shortages of HGV drivers and the introduction of full customs declarations for imported goods in January. “There have been gaps on the shelves and buyers are looking for more British cheeses to offset concerns about imported cheeses,” he said. “Shoppers also want to support British companies, following Covid.”

CHEESE IN PROFILE with Cornish Kern What’s the story? Lynher Dairies, based in Ponsanooth near Truro, is run by Catherine Mead and is perhaps better known for its Cornish Yarg. Kern, which is the Cornish word for “round”, developed in

Cheesemaker Rory Stone has seen a 25% increase in sales

He added that the price of some French and Italian cheeses had increased, making British cheeses more competitive. However, the cheesemaker sounded a note of caution, explaining how huge increases in the cost of milk, energy and labour were dampening the benefits of growth. “A 25% increase looks good on paper, but I’ve seen milk prices increase by nearly 50%,”

2010, takes inspiration from alpine and Gouda cheeses. And in 2017, it was crowned Supreme Champion at the World Cheese Awards. The milk used to make Cornish Kern is taken daily from a small herd of Ayrshires, which spend over 70% of their time grazing just down the road at Gadles Farm, where the Hoskens family adhere to the highest of animal welfare principles to render rich, creamy milk. Milk: Cows’, pasteurised.

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

BEHIND THE COUNTER TIPS OF THE TRADE

he said. “We implemented a price increase in February, but it looks like we will have to bring in another soon.” The price of milk continues to surge on the back of huge hikes in feed, fertiliser and energy costs with major processors announcing they will pay farmers above 46p/ litre from 1st July, up from around 32p/litre at the same time last year. hf-cheeses.com

Jon and Debbie Broadhurst have rebranded their Sheffield cheese shop, which was long known simply as the Silverhill Larder, but is now Cheese & Friends at the Silverhill Larder. To help spread the word, the couple have been taking stalls at local markets and food festivals. “It’s about marketing the shop, so we’ve picked events that are maximum five miles from us,” explains Jon Broadhurst. “You need something engaging, so we build a wall of 12 different cheeses, which really draws people in. Then it’s about giving a taster and getting involved in a conversation.” The company also ran a prize draw with people leaving details for the chance to win a hamper. “We got over 300 emails with people ticking boxes about tastings and our newsletter,” he says. “We also gave flyers to customers with a 10% off discount, so we’re interested to see if that brings new people to the shop.” silverhilllarder.co.uk

into 4kg moulds, the cheeses are floated in a briny bath for two days before being coated in a breathable black wax coating and left to mature for 16-24 months.

How is it made? The milk is gently heated at low pasteurisation temperatures to better preserve its flavours. Nutty alpine starter cultures are added to create a close texture and the curd is scalded to encourage its characteristic caramelised notes. After being pressed

Appearance & texture: With a firm-butsometimes-flaky texture, this hard cheese has phenomenal fruity alpine notes with a pronounced nutty sweetness and brothy, long-lasting flavours. The rich, creamy milk imparts a fudgy texture, while the breathable rind has been specially designed to

reduce moisture loss. Variations: None. Cheesemonger tip: Having been crowned Supreme Champion at the World Cheese Awards, this famous cheese is often sold out. So, if you see it, bag it! It is perfect on its own or as part of a cheeseboard. Chef’s recommendation: In line with its alpine cousins, Kern is an ideal fondue cheese but it works equally well baked into breads and scones. It pairs perfectly with Chardonnay or Riesling white wines.

There are a number of ways you can study Level 1 & 2 Academy of Cheese courses: online as self-study eLearning, interactive virtual classes or traditional classes at a venue. Visit academyofcheese.org for more information.

LE GRUYÈRE AOP RETAIL PROMOTION We’re making it even easier to introduce your customers to the fabulous Le Gruyère AOP Cheese from Switzerland.

YÈRE AOP U R G E L K C O T SIGN UP TO S G YOU NEED. IN H T Y R E V E E ECEIV AND YOU’LL R

T? WHAT DO I GE

mpling tray. - A high quality sa and oduct info sheets pr s, et afl le pe ci - Re ded POS. other exciting bran cover cost of - An allowance to er sampling. cheese for custom P O A re yè ru G Le

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

PLY? HOW DO I AP

ent en to all independ op is n io ot om pr tember - This fantastic e between mid-Sep ac pl s ke ta d an rs retaile to November. time. y stage during that an it n ru n ca u Yo e game and - Get ahead of th ities@gff.co.uk contact opportun

Partnering and supporting British artisan cheese makers to bring you quality, value, and exclusive local cheeses to your counter.

Part of AMBROSI Group www.rowcliffe.co.uk 14

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

CHEESEWIRE

news and views from the cheese counter

It is really exciting to see how we can influence the cheeses and add value

Time on their side Paxton & Whitfield’s new ageing facility shows how Britain’s oldest cheesemonger is evolving Interview by Patrick McGuigan

A KID IN a sweet shop is nothing compared to a cheesemonger in a maturing room. Paxton & Whitfield’s quality manager Jazz Reeves is clearly enjoying herself immensely as she moves among the shelves in one of company’s new ageing rooms, sampling the truckles and wheels with a deft twist of her cheese iron. She lingers longest over a hard sheep’s milk cheese called Cullum, named after Paxtons’ founder Stephen Cullum, which has been made exclusively for the retailer by Cumbrian cheesemaker Martin Gott. Small chunks are handed round, followed by conversations about salt levels and rind development. “We plan to sell Cullum at different age profiles from three to 12 months,” explains Paxtons MD James Rutter, one of those tasting. “Cullum is about taking the glut of summer milk and preserving it for the winter. That’s what true affineurs do on the Continent. They buy up front and age it on. It’s good to be able to work so closely with cheesemakers and find solutions to problems.” After 225 years in business, Paxtons already has some very established relationships with cheesemakers, but now has further scope to collaborate after moving to a 10,000 sq ft premises last year. Twice the size of its previous HQ on the same estate in Bourton-on-the-Water, the site comprises five maturing rooms, warehousing, cutting and packing space and an open-plan office. Reeves and the team are currently trialling different temperatures, humidities and techniques in the maturing rooms. As well as Cullum, projects include ageing the Swiss

cheese Schnebelhorn to eight months and creating an extra mature cave-aged cheddar. Eventually there will be dedicated rooms for washed rind, mould-ripened, blue and hard cheeses. “There’s a lot to work out and we don’t want to rush it, but it is really exciting to see how we can influence the cheeses and add value,” says Reeves. With its long history, Royal Warrant and shops in Piccadilly, Chelsea and Bath, you might think value was relatively low on the priorities of a typical Paxtons customer. Older, well-heeled shoppers are still an important part of the customer base, but the business has also seen a big increase in younger, online shoppers, who are more price-sensitive, especially with the cost-of-living crisis. To this end, the company is looking to add new cheeses, closer to the £20/kg mark. “I’d hate anyone to come into one of our shops and leave without having bought anything because it was too expensive,” says Rutter. “We need to keep attracting people who wouldn’t normally shop in our kind of shops.” Paxtons’ online sales grew hugely during lockdown, rising from 11% of sales in 2019 to 30% today, as a new generation of 25-35-yearold cheese lovers discovered good cheese via the Internet. That group is now the largest and fastest growing demographic of the company’s online business. But bricks-and-mortar retailing remains an important focus, with sales almost back to pre-Covid levels. The unique experience of visiting a cheese shop can’t be replaced, says Rutter. “From that smell when you first come in, seeing the cheese on the counter and hearing the cheesemonger talking to customers, to being handed a piece of cheese and feeling it in your hand and then tasting it. People want that experience.” |

CROSS

SECTION

Paxtons Cave Aged XO 1 Paxton’s own-brand cave-aged cheddar is

made by Ford Farm and aged in Somerset’s Wookey Hole Caves, using pasteurised milk and vegetarian rennet. The cloth-bound cheese is normally aged 12 months, but some truckles are now being matured to 18 months or more at the new premises under the new Cave Aged XO (for extra old) brand.

2 The extra ageing gives the cheese a more brittle, snappier texture and more intensity, bringing out a deeper savoury note, which contrasts nicely with the cheese’s trademark sweet, pineapple and hazelnut flavour. It’s a bigger, bolder cheese compared to the 12-month standard.

3 Paxtons’ standard Cave Aged cheddar retails for £6.50 per 250g - a slightly lower price point than other cloth-bound cheddars, such as Westcombe (£6.75) and Montgomery’s (£7.25). ‘First edition’ Cave Aged XO, aged for 21 months, retails for £8/250g.

paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk

Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

WORLD CHEESE AWARDS 2022 The Guild of Fine Food is proud to announce that the 2022 edition of the World Cheese Awards will take place at the International Conference Centre Wales, supported by the Welsh Government. KEY DATES 2022 Open for entry:

25 July

Closed for entry:

20 September

Cheeses staged:

1 November

Judges arrive:

1 November

Judging:

2 November

Cheese, food & drink tours:

3 November

Results available:

4 November

Organised by

Principal Global Partner

RGB

Основний логотип

Додатковий логотип з підписом

Додатковий логотип

Повноколірний логотип

www.gff.co.uk/wca

@guildoffinefood #worldcheeseawards Одноколірний логотип

Знак

It’s the most

wonderful time

SALES ENQUIRIES

of the year

Give a little parcel of Christmas cheer from the Best British Cheese Brand. SCAN THIS CODE WITH YOUR PHONE CAMERA

BEST BRITISH CHEESE BR AND

as voted by the Fine Food Digest Survey 2022

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

@snowdoniacheese

ai165581132389_Fieldfare - Double Page Spread_PRINT.pdf

CMY

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

21/06/2022

12:35

ai165581132389_Fieldfare - Double Page Spread_PRINT.pdf

CMY

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

21/06/2022

12:35

FOCUS ON

Christmas jams & sweet preserves

Let’s get it together While the rest of the UK is thinking about their summer holidays, any good independent retailer will have a colder time of year on their mind already. It may be July but we’ve rounded up a host of NPD for the festive season. We’ve also spoken to a number of delis and farm shops about their plans and sought expert advice on a number of key categories Compiled by Lynda Searby, Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox, and Michael Lane Illustrations by Jamie Coe

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

>> Christmas songbook for its gift boxes. A Merry Little Christmas (RRP £22) contains 24 handmade chocolates, from Gingerbread, Mince Pie and Stollen to Mulled Wine, Brandy Butter and Hepple Gin. Joy To The World (RRP £42), meanwhile, is a selection of 48 chocolates, featuring Christmas Pudding, Rum Truffles, Caramels, Pralines and Fudge. davenportschocolates. com

Julia Sutherland, founder of By Julia, says her Swedish style Gullane Glögg is the answer to delicious mulled wine without the effort. The mulling has all been done, blending spices and orange, so all that is needed is to add some red wine, heat through and serve. For Christmas 2022, By Julia has introduced a gift pack containing a 50cl bottle and two heatproof glasses. byjulia.uk

A Christmas biscuit in butter form

Ice cream might not be the obvious choice for a winter dessert, but Midlands producer Suncream Ice Cream has launched a new flavour that will be right at home on Christmas menus. Mince Pie ice cream is described as a “delicate mixed spice ice cream, with hints of warm cinnamon and lots of inclusions, such as raisins, sultanas, currants, apples, cherries, mixed peel and of course pastry pieces”. Containing 20% double cream, the ice cream can hold its own as a stand-alone dessert or accompany Christmas favourites including hot mince pies and Christmas pudding. It is available in 5 litre tubs, with 50 scoops per tub. suncreamicecream.com With the launch of Seggiano’s vegan panettone, everyone can enjoy a slice of traditional Italian cake this Christmas. The ‘clean’ panettone is free from binders, stabilisers, preservatives and emulsifiers, instead using cocoa butter, candied fruit paste, natural vanilla, linseed flour and turmeric to add fragrance, moisture and colour to the dough, which is leavened using a 33-year-old mother yeast. RRP £13.85 for 500g. seggiano.com

Ginger Bakers has created a Christmas pudding with a twist – adding sourdough to the mix to enhance the texture and flavour of its Fig & Orange Christmas Pudding. The dough is combined with figs, dates, orange peel, vine fruits and seasonal spices, including ginger, nutmeg and mixed spice, before being further enriched with rum and finished with a generous tot of Lakes Distillery orange cask whisky. Handmade in the Lake District, each 454g pudding serves four to six people and can either be steamed or microwaved. RRP £9.50; trade price £7. gingerbakers.co.uk

Seasoned Pioneers has Christmas drinks covered with its Mulling Drinks Spice Mix Selection. The gift box contains all the spices that are needed to make Mulled Wine, Mulled Cider, Hot Toddy, Caribbean Sorrel Rum and Café Brulot and includes an easy-to-follow recipe. RRP £11.95. seasonedpioneers.com

While the speciality market is awash with Christmas chutneys, you don’t see as many festive marmalades. Sussex producer Deerview Fine Foods has combined oranges, a variety of currants, Christmas spices and brandy to produce its Christmas Pudding Marmalade. RRP £4.35 for 235g; trade price £2.68. deerviewfinefoods.co.uk

The Dorset Ginger Company is pitching its Famous Five Gift Box as the perfect introduction to its non-alcoholic ginger drinks. A selection of five varieties, the box also contains a recipe booklet full of ideas for cocktails, mocktails and baking. RRP £18.15; trade price £12. dorsetginger.ltd

Butterbike has translated a festive biscuit favourite into nut butter format with the launch of Gingerbread Peanut Butter. The limitededition butter is generously spiced and scattered with crystals of chewy ginger and toasted nuts, resulting in a fiery, sweet and crunchy experience. RRP £5.50 for a 285g jar; trade price £3.58. Also new from the Devon producer is the Festive Peanut Butter Gift Box. With an RRP of £15 (trade price £10.50), the box showcases three bestsellers: Gingerbread Peanut Butter, Chocolate Peanut Butter and Rugged Peanut Butter. butterbike.co.uk

Tayport Distillery’s Miniature Gift Box provides a selection of premium spirits crafted using Scottish ingredients. The 4 x 5cl miniatures - Wild Rose Gin, Scots Pine Gin, Blackcurrant Liqueur and Malt Barley Vodka - are presented in a black box with wood wool cushioning. RRP £22. tayportdistillery.com Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Castile & León

A Castile & León Christmas British retailers looking to add interest to their Christmas ranges will find plenty of inspiration in the North West of Spain, where festive feasting is a serious business. IF YOU THOUGHT Christmas was a big deal in Britain, then you obviously haven’t been to Castile & León. The region celebrates Christmas and New Year with gusto, but carries on the fiesta well into January. Three Kings Day on 6th January, which celebrates the Three Wise Men, is a huge event across Spain with ‘Los Reyes Magos’ bringing children presents the night before, along with big family meals and huge parades. Castile & León takes the celebrations particularly seriously. Cities and towns are festooned with lights and and host colourful processions, while the region’s food and drink takes centre stage. Local farms, artisan food producers and vineyards are at their busiest, as families and friends come together for elaborate meals and celebrations. 26

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

Roasted suckling pig (‘cochinillo asado’) from Segovia is a classic festive treat across Spain, and now increasingly in the UK. “It is the busiest time for us – Christmas accounts for 60-70% of our annual sales,” says Nora Illanas, marketing and communications at suckling pig specialist Tabladillo. “Enjoying suckling pig at Christmas is a tradition that has been rooted in Spain for decades. It is one of the favourite and most appreciated dishes.” A family business with a history stretching back more than 50 years, Tabladillo has its own farms, processing plant and laboratories, where it produces a range of different products including whole, half and quarter animals, plus pre-roasted, convenience products. “The traditional Segovian way of cooking

suckling pig is roasted in the oven, adding only water and salt,” says Illanas. “The duration of cooking will depend on the portion of the product, which can vary from 45 minutes to three hours.” The result is a world away from dry, overcooked turkey. The meat is juicy and tender with a clean, buttery flavour and crispy skin. And it requires nothing more than a simple side salad. Another company whose products are in much demand at Christmas is Santa Teresa Gourmet in Ávila. It is well known for a traditional sweet treat called Yemas – a cake-like confection made with egg yolks and sugar. But it also makes an eclectic range of other gourmet products, from membrillo to a traditional Scorpion fish pâté called Pastel de Cabracho.

They are all hugely popular at Christmas, according to export manager Julio Megías Fernández, who says the three months to Christmas account for 40% of annual sales. “It’s very typical in Spain that every house has a platter with turron and other sweet specialities during Christmas. Our Yemas are a gourmet option. During Christmas, families gather and prepare very special dinners and lunches. The starters are very important and there is usually a cheeseboard with membrillo and Pastel de Cabracho to be spread on crackers.” The exuberance of Christmas celebrations in Castile & León also benefits TrufGourmet – a Soria-based company that specialises in fresh black truffles (tuber melanosporum), unearthed from its land, which comprises 17 hectares of holm oak trees. A team of specially trained dogs are used to sniff out the pungent ‘black diamonds’ with the season starting at the end of November, just in time for a huge surge in demand for Christmas. “Many lovers of good food choose to buy truffles to prepare special recipes with which to surprise their loved ones,” says owner Raquel Sanz, who likes to shave thin slivers of fresh truffle over a traditional festive dish of braised cardo (stalks of the cardoon thistle) and walnuts. “In typical UK food, it could be rolled or grated in roast turkey or other meat, added to sauces or used on buttered potatoes,” she says, adding that there is no substitute for fresh truffles. “There is no company in the world that has managed to imitate the aroma of fresh truffles effectively. Its aroma is very complex and contains more than 50 different volatile organic compounds, which is what makes it so special.” With such a bounty of different flavours on

the Christmas table, the only remaining question is what to drink. Thankfully, Castile & León has a wine for every occasion from expressive whites and complex reds to rosés and sparkling wines. Sixth generation winemaker Bodegas Yllera in Rueda has most angles covered, with more than 150 hectares of its own vineyards, while also working closely with an additional 900 hectares of vineyards, across Rueda, Ribera del Duero and Toro. The company makes a variety of styles with grapes including Verdejo, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Tempranillo. At Christmas, corks pop more freely and Yllera’s sparkling wines are in great demand. Wines such as Yllera Family Collection, which is made in the traditional method from Verdejo grapes. It is aged in bottle for at least 24 months until it develops abundant bubbles and elegant flavours of green apple and toasty biscuit notes. “The Christmas season represents 80% of our sparkling sales,” says export manager Andreea Irimia. “There is always a toast with dessert at family meals.” The company also makes an unusual

Frizzante range. Partially fermented in stainless steel tanks, before being bottled with a crown cap, rather than a cork, the gently sparkling wines are low in alcohol at 5.5% ABV and have a delicate sweetness. White (Verdejo), rosé (Verdejo and Tempranillo) and a sparkling red (Tempranillo) are all available under the Frizzante brand, and are designed to be drunk very cold as an aperitif or with desserts. From suckling pig to sparkling reds, there’s plenty of festive inspiration to be found in Castile & León. w: tabladillo.es e: gdediego@tabladillo.es w: santateresagourmet.com e: export@santateresagourmet.com w: trufgourmet.com contacto@trufgourmet.com w: grupoyllera.com e: export@grupoyllera.com www.jcyl.es For more information, contact: promocion.ice@jcyl.es

FOUR OTHER FESTIVE TREATS TO TRY Coronas de León

These delicious crown-shaped all-butter pastries are sprinkled with icing sugar and are wonderfully sweet and rich. They are made by Nazaré Hojaldrería in Castrillo de la Ribera, León – a family business that specialises in puff pastry treats and biscuits made with real butter, eggs and top quality flour. w: nazaremayorista.com e: jlosada@hojaldresnazare.es

Venison Charcuterie

Deer have roamed Spain for centuries and have attracted growing interest as a more sustainable alternative to beef. Segovia-based Deer Farmers Group is at the forefront of the movement rearing European red deer in open air parks in a semiextensive system. The meat, which is leaner than beef, is sold fresh but leg muscles are also salted, smoked and aged to create charcuterie called Cecina de Añojo de Ciervo. w: venisondeer.es e: marugan@venisondeer.es

Socorritos pastries

Founded in 1958 in Cervera, Palencia, Pastas y Hojaldres UKO is best known for its sweet and salty puff pastry bows, called Socorritos. Made with just five ingredients: flour, butter, eggs, icing sugar and salt, the beautifully packaged confections are a popular treat over the festive period. w: pastasyhojaldresuko.com e: direccion@ pastasyhojaldresuko.com

Teodolindo Añejo sheep’s milk cheese

Christmas wouldn’t be Christmas without good cheese, which is where Queserías Chillón comes in. Cheesemakers since 1890, the Toro-based company makes a range of raw sheep’s milk cheeses, including Teodolindo, which is aged for more than 30 months. The hard cheese has a crystalline texture and intense flavour. w: quesoschillon.com e: info@quesoschillon.com Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

Magamila is a farmland located in the centre of Sicily that sits amongst beautiful rolling hills. The history of Magamila traces back to more than 100 years ago when my grandfather inherited the land from his father. With family, history, and food being the staple of Sicilian culture, Magamila is a window into this life that I have the mission to share.

Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil, P.G.I.

Organic Raw Sulla Honey

Organic Pistachio Cream

- Cold extracted organic olive oil carefully obtained from a blend of Biancolilla, Nocellara Etnea, and Cerasuola characterised by fresh herbs, medium spice, medium bitter, with notes of tomatoes and artichokes.

- Delicious raw honey from sulla flowers characterised by a delicate and medium sweet taste with a beautifully thick texture. A perfect addition to your morning sourdough, oats or cheese

- Exceptional organic pistachio cream from Bronte D.O.P. Sicily with a delicate, nutty, and pleasantly sweet taste, perfect to spread on sourdough.

www.magamila.com | costanza.scelfo@magamila.com | whatsapp: 07726590462

Christmas Dairy avoiders won’t have to pass on the brandy cream this Christmas, thanks to The Coconut Collab. The company is claiming a market first for its plant-based Br&ndy Cre&m, which, as well as being dairy-free, is also free from gluten, soya, alcohol and palm oil. RRP is £1.75 for a 220ml pot. coconutco.co.uk

>> A Christmas ham-curing kit is the latest foodie gift idea from Ross & Ross Gifts. The kit comes in a tube, which contains everything you need to cure your own Christmas flavoured ham, including a curing mix, a roast ham glaze and an instructions booklet. RRP £17.50; trade price £9. Salmon curing kits and Christmas roast seasonings are also available in this tube gifting format. rossandrossgifts.co.uk

York-based Choc Affair has launched six festive flavoured bars, each with its own foil design. Choose from Pear & Anise Dark Chocolate, Roasted Winter Fruits Dark Chocolate, Apple & Cranberry Milk Chocolate, Cherry Bakewell Milk Chocolate, Christmas Pudding Dark Chocolate and Gingerbread Oat M!lk Chocolate. Trade price £19.80 (£1.65 a unit); RRP £3.25 - £3.50. choc-affair.com

CHEESE AND TIPPLE Looking for gift recommendations or the ultimate alternative cheese board for your customers this Christmas? Owner of Two Belly cheese and bottle shop in Bristol, Dominic Pulsford has got you covered. Stonebeck Wensleydale Made in the classical light acidic Wensleydale style, it’s got a real soft creamy centre with a little bit of crumble and quite a lot of moisture, which gives a real lightness. Pair with something nice and easy going – like a Kernel table beer, which has those light, fresh, hoppy flavours that go well with the light acidity of the cheese, brought down a little bit by its earthiness.

Sparkenhoe Mature Red Leicester – Leicestershire Handmade Cheese Co Sparkenhoe is the only raw milk farmhouse aged Red Leicester out there. People are usually put off by Red Leicester because of what they’ve tried in supermarkets, but this is like nothing they’ve tasted before. It’s less astringent than a cheddar, with round, nutty, deep flavours. Pair this with an aged Orval – a big round brown beer with yeast at the fore. Orval is one of the original Trappist beers; it’s very youthful and doesn’t have much hop, which is the opposite of what we’ve done with the pale ale.

The Bay Tree’s Christmas Selection (RRP £30) includes Ginger Biscuits, Dark Chocolate Mint Creams, Cheeseboard Chutney, Christmas Pickle, Boxing Day Chutney, Jingleberry Marmajam and Festive Fruit Jam. For individual gifting, the Christmas Day Cracker, priced at £5.50, is an affordable stocking filler. It contains 100g jars of Cranberry Chutney and Sticky Caramelised Onions. thebaytree.co.uk

The Welsh Saucery has launched a festive gift box featuring three of its accompaniments: Christmas Pudding Chutney, Festive Onion Chutney and Cranberry, Orange & Port Sauce. RRP is £15. thewelshsaucery.co.uk

Slated as “the ultimate gift for foodies”, Adamas caviar gift sets come in a range of different options with RRPs from £115 to £500 (pictured set RRP £150). Choose from a single tin, or a selection of three different caviar varieties. The selection comes with two mother of pearl spoons and a tin opener, and there is space under the caviar for Adamas’ branded ice pack. caviarandcocktails.com

Delicioso’s new Double Deluxe Spanish Hot Chocolate and Churro Gift Set (RRP £10.45) contains two bags of hot chocolate (original and cinnamon flavoured) as well as everything that is needed to make ‘churro’ (Spanish doughnuts), including a piping bag and full instructions. delicioso.co.uk

Blue Goose Coffee claims to be launching the UK’s first ever eco coffee pod advent calendar this Christmas. Featuring eight ethically sourced and organic coffees in certified home compostable capsules, the calendars are crafted from FSC paper and vegetable inks and are packed by hand by Devon Disability Collective. They are available for delivery from October 2022 with an RRP of £30. bluegoose.coffee

Firetree has released a drinking chocolate collection, two coffee chocolate bars and five limited edition bars that “explore exotic chocolate experiences”, including its first ever plant-based volcanic oat m*lk chocolate. Firetree’s chocolates are crafted using volcanic cocoa beans. firetreechocolate.co

St Cera – St Jude Cheese St Cera is made on the same farm as Baron Bigod, with the same milk, in the style of an Epoisses. You’re going to get a bit of whip, runny, creaminess. It’s pungent on the nose but then it really settles down. I would pair this with our Two Belly Blend Pet’ Nat’ cider blended with Ross-on-Wye. It has wonderful fruity flavours; it’s uncompromising, dry, with a little bit of funk on it, and immediately lends itself towards something like a washed rind cheese. There’s quite a lot of tannins in West Country Cider to cut through the sweetness of the cheese, but you’re also going to get a little bit of acidity which will cut through the richness. Harbourne Blue – Ticklemore Dairy Harbourne Blue is a goats’ blue with a little bit of funk on it. The fact that it’s a rindless French-style cheese with a nice intensity will balance with a little bit of lightness, so pair it with a Georgian orange wine that’s got quite a few days on the skin, something quite bold. Unlike a red wine, orange wine is going to match up quite nicely with the sweetness in the cheese, but it is quite crisp and light. 1924 Blue Cheese – Fromagerie de Laqueuille/ Mons 1924 Blue Cheese is an original recipe from Roquefort made with half cows’ milk and half sheep’s milk. It’s really rich and oozy, which will match it up with the rich intense flavours of an iced cider. Almost like a dessert wine, iced cider was developed in Canada, where the winters are very harsh. You often get early frosts before you pick the apples, so they freeze on the tree, and by pressing them you get a higher intensity of fruit juice full of fructose. twobelly.co.uk Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

Importing Highest Quality Italian Products

What better than an award-winning Italian hamper for Christmas? We are pleased to introduce our amazing quality Italian Christmas products. We are taking Christmas orders for our range Panettone, Nougat, Chocolates, Hampers, Panforte and much more.

Winners of 6 Great Taste awards in 2021, with a 3 star for our Limoncello Panettone

For more information on our full range please visit www.tenutamarmorelle.com or call 01635744600

Directly from Italy, Stocked & Distributed in the United Kingdom 30

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

Christmas

>> Pitched as a great alternative to traditional cured salmon, ChalkStream’s sides of trout gravalax are hand filleted, pin boned and trimmed, before being dry cured in a traditional marinade of salt, sugar and dill. The trout fillets are then dressed with rum, black pepper and a sprinkling of fresh dill. RRP £30 for a side (600g); trade price £16.90. chalkstreamfoods.co.uk

Italian bakery Loison has unveiled its Christmas collection, which includes a new Panettone with Green Pistachio Nuts from Bronte and Matcha Green Tea from Uji, Kyoto. The Pistachio Matcha Panettone marries an Italian tradition with a thousand-year-old Japanese ritual. It combines a creamy filling made from brightgreen PDO pistachio nuts from Bronte with raisins and white chocolate icing enriched with matcha green tea powder, finely chopped green pistachios and whole green pistachios. The Pistachio Matcha Panettone is included in three of Loison’s collections: Genesi (1kg and 500g), Gold (750g) and Latta (1kg). loison.com Meaning ‘small quantity’ in Tunisian, the Kemia Hamper from Zeet is an assortment of appetisers that are served as an aperitif or an accompaniment to alcoholic drinks in Tunisian bistro counters. With an RRP of £40, the hamper contains 500ml Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil, 100g Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil Jam, 2 x 100g Organic Tapenade, 210g Spicy Gordal Olives and 210g Organic Caspe Broken Olives. evoozeet.com

Freda’s limited-edition Winter Fruit & Spice Peanut Butter is back by popular demand for 2022. The Cornish producer recommends slathering it liberally on toasted fruit loaf or hot waffles. RRP is £4.30 per jar; trade price £2.75. fredas.co.uk

FESTIVE DRINKS TRENDS Speciality & Fine Food Fair Event Manager Nicola Woods looks ahead to the Christmas and some of the drinks products, trends and consumer behaviours set to make a mark this festive season. It’s hard to believe how much the world has changed since last Christmas, with global travel and hospitality now back to something approaching pre-pandemic levels (albeit with a few hiccups). For many consumers this festive season will be a first reunion with family and friends after a difficult three years, and this is certain to affect buying habits and the types of drinks products making their way into people’s homes. Shoppers will likely be divided between the desire to celebrate and the rising pressures of the cost-ofliving crisis, however the holiday season is a reason to splash out and we may well see a continuation of the global buying trends that have been noticeable in the drinks sector, as reported by the IWSR. The market research agency has seen a rise in Irish, American and Japanese whiskies and agave spirits, all making strides into the luxury drinks market and hinting that consumers are continuing

to seek out exciting new flavours and brands in their drinks choices. The at-home luxury experience will be a key factor in drinks choices for this year’s festive season, from premium ready-to-drink products to festive cocktails to new and exciting spirit choices. In the no and low market, too, consumers will want to mark the holiday season with premium alternatives to festive drinks staples, such as sparkling wines and spirit alternatives. IWSR research has found that ‘blended drinking’ is becoming more commonplace, with particularly Gen-Z and Millennials switching between alcoholic drinks and lower alcohol alternatives over the course of a single evening. The Platinum Jubilee saw not only a boost for retail and hospitality, but a huge number of limited-edition products hitting the market to celebrate the occasion. As drinks brands are increasingly shifting from a customer-centric approach to an occasion-centric approach, we may well see more drinks brands introducing festive products and flavours. To check out the drinks brands on offer at Speciality & Fine Food Fair 2022, head to specialityfinefoodfairs.co.uk Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

Christmas

>> Cranberry & Chilli Relish, which balances the sharpness of cranberry with fresh orange and a hint of chilli, is What A Pickle!’s first limited edition flavour. The Ludlow producer’s popular Chutney for Cheese will also take on a festive label from September to December. This cheeseboard companion is based on peach, apple and onion with some warm spices and a subtle chilli kick. what-a-pickle.com

Create a table centrepiece with a macaron tower Hilton Macarons is offering Christmas Classic macarons in red, white and green with six festive flavours including brandy butter, mulled spice and orange chocolate. They are available in boxes of 6, 12 or 18, and are made by hand in Suffolk using natural fillings. hiltonmacarons.co.uk

Seamoor Coffee’s Roasters Selection gift boxes allow coffee lovers to try a variety of origins, processing styles and roasrs whilst learning more about coffee. The box contains four 100g taster bags of in-season coffees, along with information cards about each coffee. RRP £25. seamoorcoffee.co.uk 32

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

Northern Ireland’s Long Meadow Cider has added Spiced Apple Juice to its range of apple juices, ciders and vinegars. Juice from homegrown apples is infused with winter spices, oranges, cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg to produce a drink that can be served as a winter warmer. RRP £3 per bottle for 750ml; trade price £21.60 for a case. longmeadowcider.com

LOOKING THE PART Retail design and merchandising specialist Eve Reid, of Metamorphosis Group, looks at how shopkeepers should present themselves and their stock during the festive season. Pricing with clarity Consumers are undoubtedly trying to tighten their belts at the moment, but the sales will come for food & drink retailers at Christmas – they’ll just have to be more price conscious. That doesn’t mean everything has to be cheaper but make sure your pricing is clear, via signage and ticketing, and present the options for gifting at several price points. Have a conversation with customers in store about what their budgets are. This will reassure shoppers that you are “in touch” with them and their needs. Adapt and be flexible With people potentially looking to spend less in December, how you present and package your gifting items will be key. Try to stock lines that can be sold either for the Christmas table or as presents with a change of presentation. It’s not just classics like chocolates, panettones and cheese accompaniments – think creatively. Something as simple as three craft beer cans in a nicely branded cardboard tube can work as a costeffective option and still be an excellent gift.

Game On has partnered with The Bay Tree to bring four of its savoury jellies to the speciality food trade. Redcurrant Jelly with Mint & Chilli, Cider Jelly & Sage and Red Wine Jelly with Thyme & Juniper Berry, Orange Jelly with Chilli & Cardamon are designed to go with game, meat and cheese. Trade price £15.60 for a case of six; RRP £3.95 per 205g jar. gameonfoods.co.uk

Dr Honey has elevated honey to gifting status with the launch of two gourmet lines in 100g jars for the festive season. Acacia Honey with Truffle melds the floral sweetness of the honey with earthy, aromatic truffle, while Acacia Honey with Gold features 23 carat edible gold flakes. drhoney.hu

Holdsworth Chocolates’ new Bee Friendly assortment of dark chocolates and truffles offers an ethical gifting option - 10p from every box sold is donated to the Conservation Trust and the packaging is 100% recyclable and produced using renewable energy. The plant-based selection contains 12 chocolates and truffles made from single origin Colombian cocoa. RRP £10. holdsworthchocolates. co.uk

Retailers looking for wine with a difference should check out Wicklow Way Wines - Ireland’s only fruit wine producer. The winery’s Móinéir, Blackberry and Raspberry are all made entirely from berries rather than grapes and retail at between €22-25 a bottle. wicklowwaywines.ie

Purple is a big thing this year, even now that Jubilee celebrations have finished, and its appeal will carry on Don’t abandon the Christmas spirit After last Christmas and with the cost-of-living in sharp focus, retailers are understandably frightened of ordering in too much Christmas-specific stock. You don’t have to order in oodles of it – just keep orders manageable – because plenty of people do still like the traditional element of Christmas. It’s a good idea to find stock that will work beyond 25th December but make sure that you can make them look festive by adding bows, ribbons and tags. It goes without saying that you should be decorating the space surrounding your stock too. Follow the trends When thinking about colour schemes for decorations and gift-packaging, you can go beyond the usual red and green. Purple is a big thing this year, even now that Jubilee celebrations have finished, and its appeal will carry on for the rest of 2022. Metallic colours are also going to be massive this Christmas with lots of packaging suppliers already preparing a raft of gold and silver items. Completing this year’s trend trio is the “botanical” look, which taps into conscious consumers’ focus on nature. Consider those muted greens and browns, classy Nordic Christmas trees and eco-friendly materials, when sourcing packaging and decorations. metamorphosisgroup.co.uk

WWW.ARDENS.CO.UK

Delicious melt in the mouth shortbread, the perfect festive treat this Christmas.

deans.co.uk T: 01466 792086 sales@deans.co.uk

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

Christmas

How we’re getting ready for Christmas… For Roquefort, we’ve switched over to Mrs Bell’s Blue or Leeds Blue, when we can get it. We get Tunworth instead of petit Camembert.

It’s just the reality that people like the convenience of being able to buy online, and we’re lucky because we’re strongly positioned to deliver high-quality items.

Daniel Williams, Project Manager, Godfrey C. Williams & Son, Sandbach, Cheshire .Catalogues from big wholesalers started coming through to Godfrey C. Williams & Sons in Sanbach as early as March, so the family-run business had sent off orders by May Bank holiday. “For the smaller, local companies selling local cheese and meats, we’ll go closer to the time, like October-November,” fifth generation grocer Daniel Williams tells FFD. Christmas for the past two years has been a bit of a guessing game, so it will be this year. They expect customers will prioritise value for money, so the Williams’ have cut back on premium products. “We will still be sticking with statement pieces for Christmas,” he says, like the Tenuta Marmorelle limoncello Panettone, and a good range of English wine, both of which have done well. Other items will be dropped, like the salt and pepper gift packs they previously stocked but can now be found in TK Maxx. “Not that we classify TK Maxx as a direct competitor,” he laughs, “but it’s little things like that where you have to plan ahead against.” As customers also look to increase support for local producers, the shop will turn to Cheshire and nearby Shropshire for cheeses, apple juice, chutneys, biscuits and chocolates. Hampers will likely be dominated by local items too. Like-for-like counter cheeses have changed in recent months, which will be reflected in their Christmas orders. “We don’t tend to stock Brie de Meaux on the counter on a regular basis now because they’ll all go for a Baron Bigod,” says Williams. “For Roquefort, we’ve switched over to Mrs Bells Blue or Leeds Blue when we can get it. We get Tunworth instead of petit Camembert.” While they will continue to stock cheeses at the higher end of the price spectrum, Williams understands that customers are reluctant to buy anything above the £4.00 per 100 gram mark, spare the odd exception. “Giving a cheese a try always helps, we’ve always got Buffalo Blue by Shepherds Purse on for £4 per 100 grams but you can’t get much of it around,” he says. Meanwhile, Sharpham Brie, Cornish Yarg, Waterloo, Rosary Goats all gravitate around the £2.50 per 100 grams mark. “That’s great value for the quality of cheese it is.” godfreycwilliams.co.uk

Shane Godwin, Managing Director, Macknade, Faversham and Ashford, Kent Macknade Food Halls in Ashford and Faversham have navigated the past two years by striving to be both flexible and attentive. In 2020, Christmas was more or less cancelled, then last year “footfall was up and people were spending money on fine food, which was great,” MD Shane Godwin tells FFD. Festivities will still go ahead in 2022, as Britons are enjoying more quality time with friends and family. However, buying patterns already show that the cost-of-living crisis will have an effect. “People are making sure they get the value out of what they’re buying so the higher end range is becoming a little more pressed,” he says, “so ultimately we’re restricting our range in that top end.” Instead of buying a kilo Panettone or a large Christmas pudding, people might opt for the smaller versions. “They’ll be thinking, ‘what do I actually need,’ but still getting a little bit of what I want with those indulgences.” Not all the changes brought about in the past two years will disappear, however, as the trend towards more online sales continues in that direction. “It’s not completely to do with any reaction to Covid,” Godwin says, “it’s just the reality that people like the convenience of being able to buy online, and we’re lucky because we’re strongly positioned to deliver high-quality items,” differentiating them from multinationals with more buying power and operational finesse. To counter the effects of Brexit, Covid, and now, the war in Ukraine on the supply chain, Macknade’s Christmas orders have focused on local, artisan products, so far sparing them the news that items won’t be delivered. “But ultimately, it’s the price that we’re still nervous about,” he adds. Striking the right balance between absorbing rising costs and passing them on to customers has been the company’s biggest challenge in recent months, involving a case-by-case approach of swallowing as much as possible within the margins. With this in mind, “we’re confident that we will still have a successful Christmas, we’re just at this reaction time in the businesses, making sure that we are driving our customers in to get what they need - and getting the full range of produce in.” macknade.com

Turkey Seasoning An all-round herby seasoning for juicy roast turkey and a tasty, savoury gravy.

Artisan herbs, spices and seasonings hand-blended in East Sussex

Drivers Pickles’ Happy Christmas gift box brings together three of the producer’s most popular festive lines: Christmas Pickle (350g jar), Chunky Piccalilli (350g) and 1906 Pickled Onions (550g). Available direct or via Cress & Co, Cotswold Fayre and Holleys. RRP £13.95. driverspickles.co.uk

Ouse Valley Foods has chosen Cranberry, Blackcurrant & Port Conserve, Redcurrant Jelly and Stem Ginger Jam to star in its Christmas gift pack. The trio has an RRP of £17.50 and is available to the trade priced at £11.06 per 227g jar via Cress Co, Infinity Foods and Love for Local. ousevalleyfoods.com

Bar Buoy has put a local spin on the Dark’n’Stormy cocktail, creating the Devon Stormy, mixed with Two Drifters Dark Rum, agave syrup, orange bitters, Angostura bitters and ginger tea. The bottled cocktail producer expects this to be one of its bestsellers this Christmas, along with Bramble and Espresso Martini. barbuoy.co.uk

Burren Balsamics has created two balsamic jellies with the Christmas cheeseboard in mind. The Northern Irish producer says White Balsamic Jelly complements soft washed rind or blue cheeses, while Balsamic Jelly is a match for the robust flavours of an aged Comte, mature Cheddar or Parmesan. burrenbalsamics.com

Based in Rye, East Sussex, Carla’s Foods produces over 60 sweet and savoury spice & herb blends and mixes that can help home cooks elevate a variety of dishes. New for Christmas 2022 are the Bread Sauce Mix and the Christmas Spice Mix. carlasfoods.co.uk

Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

Christmas

>> BoTree’s Christmas Collection is billed as the ultimate set of winter spices to bring festive flavours to the kitchen. The collection includes six spices, including Great Taste 2-star winners Buffalo Ginger and Royal Cinnamon, as well as Sweet Allspice Berries, Pemba Clove, True Star Anise and Bourbon Vanilla Bean Powder. RRP £33.49; trade price £23.44. botreefarm.co.uk

Just Delicious in Harrogate has cooked up a Christmas Chutney that is packed with cranberries, dates, prunes, Bramley apples, apricots, and red onions, slowly cooked in cider vinegar to mature and with lots of added spice. This tangy chutney can be partnered with cold meats, cheese or pork pies. RRP £4.75; trade price £22.50 for 6 x 180g jars. just-delicious.co.uk

Vegan Christmas pudding has become its best seller - second only to its traditional Christmas pudding. Founder Alison Lilly attributes this to veganism becoming mainstream, along with an increase in gluten intolerance. “It can be really difficult to cater for all of the family’s tastes and needs so I am really proud of this pudding which contains the finest vine fruits, apples, apricots, almonds and ginger. These are blended with vegan, gluten free ale and brandy, which leaves you with a moist, scrumptious pudding suitable for everyone at the table,” she says. The pudding contains a minimum of 50% fruit and just 5% added sugar. It is available in 120g and 454g sizes. lillypuds.co.uk 36

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

African-inspired snack brand Chika’s has created two new sweet almond snacks for the festive season. The baked nuts are available in two varieties – Irish Cream and Sweet Cinnamon – with an RRP of £3 for a 100g sharing bag. chikas.co.uk

MEAT FOR THE TABLE If you thought it was all about turkey, think again. Ben Black talks us through the cuts that sell best on the counter at Brace of Butchers, in Poundbury, Dorset. The word on birds Lockdown Christmases saw us sell a really unusual amount of chickens because people didn’t need a huge bird. We still sell a plenty of whole ducks but it tends to be repeat customers rather than new ones. Goose is declining in popularity – we only did 15-20 orders last year – and the novelty of three-bird roasts has worn off – but there was one year after a TV special when every man and his dog wanted one. We still sell a good volume of turkey, and this increases by 20 or 30 more birds every year but it’s nothing compared to the growth we’ve seen in other meats. Bring on the beef We’ve doubled the volume of ribs of beef we’ve sold in the last few years. We do all of ours carvery-trimmed, so they still cook on the bone but carve easier. We also make our own Beef Wellingtons. We noticed that during lockdowns, we sold lots of wellingtons for two or four because people didn’t have any guests or family round. But customers who’ve had them – now they’ve got family back round the table – are ordering Wellingtons for 8 or 10 people. For the margins you make (the deli makes the mushroom duxelles and pastry), the effort is worth it. Other meals are available Hams are still popular but pork shoulder is a good seller and that seems to be driven by Boxing Day. If you’ve got loads of people coming round, you can put a shoulder of pork in the oven, slow-cook it and then everyone has pulled pork. It’s easy to cook and doesn’t take a lot of monitoring – and it goes along way. It might be just us but we sell a substantial amount of stewing venison. Some people are making pies and other people are making casseroles to serve on Christmas Eve after Midnight Mass. Easier, stress-free cooking In the same way that pork shoulder gives people an easier time in the kitchen, there are other slow-cooking options. We get a lot of people wanting to buy legs of lamb for Christmas day, but we tend to recommend lamb shoulders. If you don’t cook leg exactly right, it can be a bit chewy and disappointing. With shoulder, you can put it in on low and enjoy a drink with your guests. braceofbutchers.co.uk

Collection 2022 From glacé fruit to gluten free mince pies, Holleys’ spectacular Winter Collection of carefully selected fine foods is now available to pre-order online. And with nationwide delivery, unbeatable stock availability and a minimum order value you won’t need to worry about – whatever your business needs...

Free delivery on orders over £100* Just ask Holleys 0117 938 0084 or visit www.holleysfinefoods.com

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

* Minimum order value applies for free delivery and varies by region, please use our online Delivery Calculator for an exact quote.

Cocoa Bean, Damask Rose Damask Rose Buds & Lemon Buds, Verbena Lemon Verbena, Lavender & Greek Mountain Tea

Red Amaranth & Lemon Thyme

Kykeon (Traditional)

Kykeon (Modern) & Chamomile

Mountain Mint & Olive Leaf

Adopting the same meticulous approach reserved for tea and coffee, and applying it to herbal infusions, Nazani Tea was born. Partner with the UK’s only luxury herbal brand based on transparency and ethical sourcing for the finest collection of caffeine-free infusions. The Nazani Tea family is here to work alongside you to ensure your clientele or guests experience the most exclusive and memorable infusions either in or out of the home.

www.nazanitea.com • contact@nazanitea.com •

DELICIOUS HAND-ICED BISCUITS

Here at Original Biscuit Bakers we create unique and delicious biscuits for every occasion. Each biscuit we produce is lovingly crafted before being hand iced by a team of talented artists. This Christmas we have designed an abundance of festive treats that everyone will love. Our biscuits make enchanting stocking fillers, wonderful secret Santa gifts or simply a delectable treat to be enjoyed with a warm glass of cocoa on a cold and starry night.

www.originalbiscuitbakers.co.uk - @originalbiscuitbakers - @originalbiscuitbakers - info@originalbiscuitbakers.co.uk

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

@nazanitea

Christmas Easy Bean has given its Chickpea Crispbread a new look in preparation for the festive season. Handmade in Somerset using locally sourced butter, organic buttermilk and naturally gluten free chickpea flour, the seed topped crispbreads are equally at home on a cheese board or sharing platter or in a Christmas hamper. easybean.co.uk

Flower & White’s brand-new Christmas range features a host of confectionery items, such as Mallowettes (choc-enrobed mallows, decorated by hand), Double Dipped Pretzels in two moreish flavours (White Chocolate & Raspberry and Milk Chocolate Salted Caramel), and Salted Caramel Chocolate Popcorn. The brand’s classic meringue range will also be receiving some festive additions: Meringue Glitter Balls, Meringue Baci and flavoured Baby Chocolate Meringue Kisses. Retailing at £4.49 (100g packs) these sweet treats will be available to order this month. flowerandwhite.co.uk

Frozen food specialist Fieldfare is taking the faff out of party food with new desserts and savoury lines. Individually portioned desserts include Melting Chocolate Fondant, Salted Caramel Fondant, White Chocolate Fondant and Vanilla Panna Cotta. The melting fondants can simply be heated in the microwave from frozen and panna cottas just need defrosting. Tapping into the trend for easy, vegetarian and plant-based solutions, Fieldfare’s new range of savoury products takes in Mac ‘n’ Cheese Bites, Pea & Mint Fritters, Mozzarella Bites and Sweetcorn & Chilli fritters. field-fare.com Didier Goubet has collaborated with renowned jam maker Stéphan Perrotte to create a range of Grape Vine Jellies from organic Bordeaux cépages grapes. There are three alcohol-free jellies in the collection: Sémillon, which can be paired with cheese platters; Merlot, which complements a duck magret and CabernetSauvignon, for spreading on scones or desserts. RRP €7.90 for 210g. didiergoubet.com

Original Biscuit Bakers’ hand-decorated gingerbread biscuits are available in a variety of designs for the upcoming festive season: snowmen, santas, gingerbread houses, Christmas trees and penguins. Presented in an attractive counter display case, they are supplied in a case size of 12 with trade prices between £0.92-2.14 and RRPs of £1.25-3.25. These can be purchased via Cotswold Fayre, The Cress Company and Holleys Fine Foods. originalbiscuitbakers.co.uk

English Single Malt Whisky and generous quantities of cream are combined in The Norfolk Nog, a light, delicate whisky cream that can be served on ice or poured over ice cream. RRP is £22.50. englishwhisky.co.uk

Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Invest NI

Try something new this Christmas Northern Ireland’s producers can offer independent retail and foodservice buyers plenty of festive cheer this year. Here are some brands to consider getting on the shelves this winter NORTHERN IRELAND IS renowned for its lush green landscape and warm, friendly people. This happy confluence results in a host of rich, luxurious products that ooze hospitality and are perfect for the festive season. Whether you’re looking for the perfect cuppa with a sweet treat on the side, or a local beer or spirit to accompany your cheese and charcuterie board, Northern Ireland’s food and drink producers have the answer. Invest Northern Ireland works with businesses to enhance supplier capability, support marketing outside Northern Ireland and develop new customer relationships in Great Britain and beyond. The business development team is at hand to help the trade find the right products to boost sales at Christmas and throughout the year. Find out more at buynifood.com

Corndale Farm

Northern Ireland’s only producer of free-range charcuterie products, Corndale was set up in 2012 with only four pigs but now farms upwards of 500 pigs per year. The range is made with “whole animal” ethos, and includes chorizo, salami, coppa, lomo, bresaola, & ‘nduja. Corndale Farm supplies leading retailers and foodservice operations across the UK and Ireland. sales@corndalefarm.com corndalefarm.com

Dart Mountain Cheese

Dart Mountain’s array of cheeses, chutneys, drizzles and biscuits takes a little more time to create than usual. Its brand and pack design reflects the handcrafted nature of the eight cheeses, four chutneys and three drizzles – all of which will add value to retailers’ cheeseboard offerings this Christmas. All lines are available in convenient size and pack options. Buyers should contact Dart Mountain directly for Christmas Offer specials or if interested in stocking the range on an ongoing basis. info@tamnaghfoods.com dartmountaincheese.com

Burren Balsamics

Within the Premium Pantry range from Burren Balsamics, is the innovative range of Pearl Bursts. These are created from Burren’s own Infused Balsamic Vinegars in three flavours. The Citrus White Balsamic Pearl Bursts (a combination of Lemon, Lime, Grapefruit and Orange) are the perfect accompaniment to smoked salmon canapés, but also work well on top of a lemon posset or added to a mojito cocktail. The two other flavours are the multi-award-winning Blackberry & Thyme and the newly launched Irish Peat Smoked White Balsamic Pearl Bursts. RRP £7.50 for a 50g jar. susie@burrenbalsamics.com burrenbalsamics.com 40

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

Forest Feast

Premium Snack brand Forest Feast could make gifting easy this Christmas. Handcrafted in Co. Armagh using only the finest Belgian chocolate, its threestrong range comes in a luxury gift tube. This format is perfect as a last-minute gift, teacher present or stocking filler. The Salted Dark Chocolate Almonds, Salted Caramel Milk Chocolate Almond and Valencia Orange Dark Chocolate Hazelnuts all suitable for vegans, gluten-free and come in 6 x 140g shelf-ready boxes (RRP £5). enquiries@forestfeast.com forestfeast.com

Suki Tea Makers

blend that bursts with aromatic, warm spices and a finishing flavour of sweet, dried fruit, mirroring the big robust flavours and velvety smooth character of Black Bush. Tins of 12 pyramids have an RRP of £8.50 (wholesale £4.95). queries@suki-tea.com suki-tea.com

Symphionia Spirits

The unique distillation method ensures that even the most delicate flavours are preserved to give these spirits a distinctive edge. 200ml sets have an RRP of £40 and 50ml packs retail for £20. info@woodlabdistillery.com symphoniaspirits.com

Founded in 2005 by Oscar Woolley & Anne Rooney, Suki Tea is an award-winning boutique blender which sources, blends and packages tea from all over the world at its plant in Belfast. The perfect Christmas treat, Bushmills Black Bush X SUKI loose leaf tea pyramid, is a

Hotties Vegan Christmas

Hotties Chocolate, a small-batch luxury hot chocolate brand based outside Belfast, is launching a new range of vegan hot chocolates – made using ethically sourced cocoa beans. After a successful launch last year, this exciting new challenger brand is jumping on the success of its first vegan hot chocolate by adding 2 new flavours: Dark Orange and Dark Raspberry. Hotties’ 1kg catering bags (33 cups per bag) for foodservice start at £17.99, and for retailers, there are 250g bags (trade £6.00, RRP £9.95). hottieschocolate@gmail.com hottieschocolate.com

Symphonia’s festive gift packs are perfect for the gin-lovers of the world. Packs include Irish Dry Gin, Irish Apple Gin and Fruit Cup. All of these award-winning spirits are sustainably produced using only local ingredients – including the famous Armagh Bramley Apple.

To find out more about how Invest NI could help you contact Michelle Charrington or Drew McIvor Michelle.charrington@investni.com drew.mcivor@investni.com buynifood.com Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

RESULTS: 1 AUGUST www.greattasteawards.co.uk This year’s definitive list of the very best food and drink for your deli, farm shop, food hall, café, restaurant, or your home. For feedback and results, entrants should login to their MyGuild account on 1 August. Entrants are encouraged to update stockist details before results are published: myguild.gff.co.uk.

gff.co.uk

@guildoffinefood #greattasteawards #ISpyGreatTaste

HICKORY SMOKED CASHEWS The finest quality cashew nuts, traditionally smoked over hickory woodchips in a brick kiln, then roasted and salted.

INGREDIENTS: Cashew Nuts (nuts), Sunflower Oil, Salt, Hickory Wood Smoke.

HICKORY SMOKED CASHEWS The finest quality cashew nuts, traditionally smoked over hickory woodchips in a brick kiln, then roasted and salted.

Our real smoked nuts are produced in small batches by hand with care and attention - we do hope that you enjoy them.

Store in a cool dry place away from strong light.

At the Cheshire Smokehouse, we have been smoking fine foods for over 100 years, using brick-built smoke kilns and the finest hickory chippings.

For allergens see ingredients in bold. Packed in a factory that handles peanuts, other nuts, sesame and gluten.

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION Typical values per 100g Energy KJ/ 2533kj / Kcal 611kcal Fat 50.9g of which saturates 10.1g Carbohydrates 18.9g of which sugars 5.5g Fibre 3.2g Protein 20.6g Salt 1.1g

INGREDIENTS: Cashew Nuts (Nuts), Sunflower Oil, Salt, Hickory Wood Smoke. For allergens see ingredients in bold. Packed in a factory that handles peanuts, other nuts, sesame and gluten. Store in a cool dry place away from strong light.

HICKORY SMOKED CASHEWS The finest quality cashew nuts, traditionally smoked over hickory woodchips in a brick kiln, then roasted and salted.

At the Cheshire Smokehouse, we have been smoking fine foods for over 100 years, using brick-built smoke kilns and the finest hickory chippings. Our real smoked nuts are produced in small batches by hand with care and attention - we do hope that you enjoy them. The Real Smoked Nut Company The Cheshire Smokehouse Ltd Vost Farm : Morley Green : Wilmslow : Cheshire : SK9 5NU www.smokednuts.co.uk

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION Typical values per 100g Energy KJ/ 2533kj / Kcal 611kcal Fat 50.9g of which saturates 10.1g Carbohydrates 18.9g of which sugars 5.5g Fibre 3.2g Protein 20.6g Salt 1.1g

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION Typical values per 100g

INGREDIENTS: Cashew Nuts (nuts), Sunflower Oil, Salt, Hickory Wood Smoke. For allergens see ingredients in bold. Packed in a factory that handles peanuts, other nuts, sesame and gluten. Store in a cool dry place away from strong light.

1kg

Energy KJ/Kcal Fat of which saturates Carbohydrates of which sugars Fibre Protein Salt

2533kj / 611kcal 50.9g 10.1g 18.9g 5.5g 3.2g 20.6g 1.1g

The Real Smoked Nut Company The Cheshire Smokehouse Ltd Vost Farm : Morley Green : Wilmslow : Cheshire : SK9 5NU www.smokednuts.co.uk

250g

250g pouch

80g pouch 80g

250g

1kg

Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

80g

1kg pouch

The Real Smoked Nut Company The Cheshire Smokehouse Ltd Vost Farm, Morley Green, Wilmslow, Cheshire, SK9 5NU www.smokednuts.co.uk

sales@cheshiresmokehouse.co.uk For more information, e-mail: We actually smoke our nuts in our own brick smoke kilns - no flavours added.

HICKORY SMOKED CASHEWS

HICKORY SMOKED CASHEWS HICKORY SMOKED ALMONDS, CASHEWS AND PEANUTS

The finest quality cashew nuts, traditionally smoked over hickory woodchips in a brick kiln, then roasted and salted. The finest quality almonds, cashew nuts and peanuts, traditionally smoked over hickory woodchips in a brick kiln, then roasted and salted.

INGREDIENTS: Almonds (nuts), Cashew Nuts, Peanuts, Sunflower Oil, Salt, Hickory Wood Smoke.

Hickory smoked cashews HICKORY SMOKED ALMONDS, CASHEWS AND PEANUTS

HICKORY SMOKED ALMONDS, CASHEWS AND PEANUTS The finest quality almonds, cashew nuts and peanuts, traditionally smoked over hickory woodchips in a brick kiln, then roasted and salted.

INGREDIENTS: Almonds (nuts), Cashew Nuts, Peanuts, Sunflower Oil, Salt, Hickory Wood Smoke.

The finest quality almonds, cashew nuts and peanuts, traditionally smoked over hickory woodchips in a brick kiln, then roasted and salted.

For allergens see ingredients in bold. Packed in a factory that handles sesame, gluten and other nuts.

At the Cheshire Smokehouse, we have been smoking fine foods for over 100 years, using brick-built smoke kilns and the finest hickory chippings.

Store in a cool dry place away from strong light.

80g

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION Typical values per 100g

Our real smoked nuts are produced in small batches by hand with care and attention - we do hope that you enjoy them.

For allergens see ingredients in bold. Packed in a factory that handles sesame, gluten and other nuts.

The Real Smoked Nut Company The Cheshire Smokehouse Ltd Vost Farm : Morley Green : Wilmslow : Cheshire : SK9 5NU www.smokednuts.co.uk

Store in a cool dry place away from strong light.

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION Typical values per 100g Energy KJ/ 2531kj / Kcal 611kcal Fat 53.5g of which saturates 8.1g Carbohydrates 10.9g of which sugars 4.5g Fibre 5.6g Protein 22g Salt 1.1g

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION Typical values per 100g

INGREDIENTS: Almonds (nuts), Cashew Nuts, Peanuts, Sunflower Oil, Salt, Hickory Wood Smoke. For allergens see ingredients in bold. Packed in a factory that handles sesame, gluten and other nuts. Store in a cool dry place away from strong light.

1kg

Energy KJ/Kcal Fat of which saturates Carbohydrates of which sugars Fibre Protein Salt

2531kj / 611kcal 53.5g 8.1g 10.9g 4.5g 5.6g 22g 1.1g

The Real Smoked Nut Company The Cheshire Smokehouse Ltd Vost Farm : Morley Green : Wilmslow : Cheshire : SK9 5NU www.smokednuts.co.uk

Energy KJ/ 2531kj / Kcal 611kcal Fat 53.5g of which saturates 8.1g Carbohydrates 10.9g of which sugars 4.5g Fibre 5.6g Protein 22g Salt 1.1g

250g

250g pouch

The Real Smoked Nut Company The Cheshire Smokehouse Ltd Vost Farm, Morley Green, Wilmslow, Cheshire, SK9 5NU www.smokednuts.co.uk

S A M E G R E AT QUALITY AND REAL SMOKE

1kg pouch

NEW MIXES

80g pouch 80g

250g

1kg

HICKORY SMOKED ALMONDS, CASHEWS AND PEANUTS

N E W, R E C Y C L A B L E PA C K A G I N G

HICKORY SMOKED ALMONDS, CASHEWS AND PEANUTS

COMING SOON The finest quality almonds, cashew nuts and peanuts, traditionally smoked over hickory woodchips in a brick kiln, then roasted and salted.

Hickory smoked almonds, cashews and peanuts FIN

info@delicioso.co.uk

E F AS OO SE D S EN H O AT W NO R

01865 340055

Featuring our new range of truffle filled chocolate fig bombons and many other gourmet Spanish specialities. No minimum order & next-day delivery throughout the UK.

info@caviarandcocktails.com | 01743 650252 | www.caviarandcocktails.com

Caviar sales are booming in the UK. Join this trend with our Award-Winning Italian Caviar.

THE ULTIMATE CHRISTMAS LUXURY CHRISTMAS BROCHURE AVAILABLE NOW!

NEW FOR XMAS 2022

Finally a vegan panettone to celebrate! Master baker Beniamino has worked his magic to make a delicious vegan panettone for us, so that everyone can enjoy a slice of traditional Italian cake this Christmas. Free from binders, stabilisers, preservatives or emulsifiers and only uses sulphite-free fruits and healthy high oleic oil. Cocoa butter, candied fruit paste, natural vanilla, linseed flour and turmeric to add fragrance, moisture and colour to the dough, which is leavened using his 33 year old mother yeast.

INFO@SEGGIANO.COM

La Bandiera Extra-Virgin Olive Oil What makes it so delicious? Dipping into La Bandiera extra virgin, organic olive oil is one of life’s great pleasures. The golden colour of the oil is reminiscent of Tuscany and the summer light. The flavour is fruity, robust, well rounded and delicious with all dishes. For further information, please visit our website www.labandieraoliveoil.com or contact info@labandieraoliveoil.com

Discover our story...

WWW.HAWKSHEADRELISH.COM 44

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

FOCUS ON

foodservice

Whether your farm shop has a café or you sell food-togo from your deli counter, you need to be watching the pennies and keeping those rising costs under close control. And who better than award-winning chefs to tell you how? By Tanwen Dawn Hiscox Nina Matsunaga, The Black Bull in Sedbergh

Culinary economics NO SUCH THING AS A ‘HUMBLE’ INGREDIENT Whether you own a delicatessen carrying the odd seasonal vegetable, or you’re a farm shop with a full produce section, familiarise yourself with the ingredients at your disposal. It should only take a few techniques and an extra bit of effort to turn low-cost ingredients into high-value products. Frances Atkins cites cabbage as a good example. Rather than making your excess cabbage into coleslaw, chop it up with some herbs a make a pistou (a cold sauce similar to Italian pesto). Cabbage might not sound as exciting as salmon, but you can roast it or make it into a torte with sour cream and chives. As for meat and fish, you can just as well use the trim from your charcuterie counter or ask your suppliers to sell you more than just prime cuts. “Use the bits that people don’t really use and turn them into something else,” says Dan Lee, like a stew or a quiche. Nina Matsunaga, like those retailers with an in-store butcher, has the advantage of knowing how to cut whole animals down – meaning she can put everything to good use. Using the dice from beef and lamb to make crowd-pleasing sausage rolls, pies and curries ultimately makes the most money. “They are quickly made and essential for us to be able to be a little more generous on the prime cuts,” she says.

If you’re making it togo, make something uncomplicated and healthy – using three or four ingredients.

Frances Atkins, The Paradise Café

BEWARE OF THE SEASONAL TRAP As a rule of thumb, seasonality is a good indicator of what is abundant, what is good, and what is affordable, but always keep a beady eye on costs. We all love British asparagus – and precisely because it’s in high demand, it can cost you more than it will earn. “You need to be careful with highly sought-after produce,” says Dean Banks, chef owner of Scottish restaurants Haar and The Pompadour. Farm shops especially can do what chefs do and cut out the middleman. “Always check pricing and look around before buying from a large supply chain,” adds Banks. “Direct from farm or fisherman is always cheaper.”

‘FRESH IS BEST’

Frances Atkins, the UK’s first female chef to earn a Michelin star for her restaurant, The Yorke Arms, now jointly oversees Paradise at Daleside, a café based at Daleside Nurseries in Harrogate. During the pandemic, she and her team ran a food wagon outside the garden centre, so she is well-versed in adapting what she cooks in varying circumstances. Atkins’ rule no 1? “Fresh is best,” she says, “and if you’re making it to-go, something uncomplicated and healthy – using three or four ingredients.”

SWITCH IT UP Remember, you are more nimble than a chain restaurant. “You can change according to what is available and what the prices are like at the time,” says private chef and winner of MasterChef: The Professionals 2021, Dan Lee. Don’t be scared to switch things up. Instead of struggling to source the (increasingly expensive) items for the same dish over and over again, thinking creatively will save you time and money. If your customer base is open to it, consider a menu du jour – or a menu de la semaine. A great chef’s trick is to create a dish then alternate ingredients according to availability. “We often come up with a garnish and have to change the cuts such as swapping a sirloin for a rib or even venison at times,” says Nina Matsunaga, chef and owner of The Black Bull Inn and of The Three Hares deli & café in Sedbergh, North Yorkshire. Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

IT’S A BALANCING ACT

Yes, affordability is at the forefront of many customer’s minds these days, but sometimes they want to treat themselves to something a bit special. When Banks uses luxury ingredients, he opts for ones guests aren’t necessarily familiar with, or that are harder to find, “so a customer wouldn’t directly know the cost”. He adds: “This way you can easily achieve your desired margins.” Retailers could do this using high margin products, with the added bonus of securing a retail sale if customers are sufficiently impressed by a dish. That said, there’s no reason why deli chefs can’t use an expensive ingredient with more affordable ones. “We often will combine something like truffles with lamb or venison but use a secondary cut such as liver or heart,” says Matsunaga, adding this will balance the dish as well as its margins. “We often also like to use vegetables as the star of a particular dish. For example, cooking beetroot or parsnips in lamb fat and using a protein alongside.”

Always check pricing and look around before buying from a large supply chain. Dean Banks, chef patron, Haar and The Pompadour

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

GET YOUR MISE EN PLACE DONE, BUT FINISH ITEMS TO ORDER

While it is tempting to get your prep done first thing in the morning to then focus on your customers in the day, food-to-go items don’t always need to be prepared and packed in advance. There’s little worse than a pasta salad that has been sat gorging sauce in a fridge for six hours. When you’re deciding what you want to sell, “think about what lasts longer in a fridge, what’s not going to die if you throw a load of dressing onto it”, says Lee. “Don’t make everything in the morning, try to do it fresh and just top it up every two hours.” And for all your rice, pasta and noodle salads, cook them ready to go with a dressing on the side. “That way you can always make it fresh,” he adds. Remember that prime meat cuts don’t reheat well, so don’t waste them. “I would always use a cut that would need to be slowcooked as this creates a better product for reheating,” says Banks. All of that said, lots of things can be made in advance to save you time, without losing in quality, “like sausage rolls, beef pies, pork pies, cookies...which we prepare, freeze and cook as needed,” says Matsunaga.

DON’T BE A TRICKSTER

Although it might be tempting to go down the gimmick route of truffle oil and gratuitous dollops of caviar, Lee has a word of warning. If you’re going premium, he says, do it properly, or your customers will call you out for it. “Wagyu strikes me as a good example,” he says, as even McDonald’s once sold burgers bearing the hyped moniker. The name refers to a breed of cow, and doesn’t mean you can’t source low-grade Wagyu.

Use the bits that people don’t really use and turn them into something else. Dan Lee, private chef and winner of MasterChef: The Professionals 2021

KEEP YOUR SUPPLIERS CLOSE – YOU CAN TAKE DEALS FROM PEOPLE YOU TRUST

If you’re your own supplier, lucky you. You already know what’s best. But if you’re not, having a good relationship with your suppliers – big or small – will help you be adaptable. Not only will this keep you informed about of fluctuating prices, but being within their inner circle could mean they come to you with the best deals. You may need to accept the odd 4am phone call, but as chefs will tell you, sometimes a sleepless night is worth it. “You know you’re going to get really good deals from those suppliers,” says Lee, “because they want to sell, and you want what’s fresh. That can save you a lot of money.” Echoing this sentiment, Matsunaga has always found that working closely with her meat suppliers means that she can get “the best product at the best time at the best price.”

Family values

Proud of our provenance

Care & attention

THE AWARD-WINNING LU X U R Y C H O C O L AT E . FROM E XOTIC VOLCANIC ISLANDS TO YOUR STORES. 10% OFF YOUR FIRST PURCHASE. TO O R D E R , C O N TA C T U S AT I N F O @ F I R E T R E E C H O C O L AT E .C O M

Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

FOCUS ON

foodservice

EQUIPMENT

FROM THE DELI KITCHEN SIMPLE RECIPES TO BOOST YOUR MARGINS

WHITE BEAN, SAMPHIRE, FETA, ALMOND & HERB SALAD Beans are so incredibly versatile and work in almost any salad. You can prepare the beans ahead of time and leave them in the dressing, the flavours will only improve. Cook: 1 hour 45 minutes Prep: 30 minutes Makes: 6 portions Ingredients: 200g dried white beans, (we used cannellini but you can use any variety) 1 carrot, cut into large chunks 1 leek or onion, cut into quarters (leave skin on) 100g samphire (optional) 200g feta 80g salad leaves 100g roasted salted almonds

For the dressing: 100ml olive oil 1tsp Dijon mustard Juice of 1 lemon, plus zest Drizzle of honey 1 bunch basil, finely chopped, plus extra to top Method: Begin by soaking the beans overnight in a large bowl of cold water. The following day, drain the beans and rinse well under the tap. Place in a large saucepan, cover with fresh water and bring to a slow simmer with the onion or leek and carrot. Simmer for between 1 hour and 80 minutes – until the beans are cooked through.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl mix the dressing ingredients together whizz with a stick blender. Season well with salt and pepper. When the beans are cooked, drain and immediately toss through the dressing. They’ll soak up all the delicious flavours. Blanch the samphire in boiling water for 2 minutes until just softened. Drain and toss with the beans. Spread the beans over the base of a platter, sprinkle with feta and finish with the toasted almonds.

Fri-Jado has extended its MDD Hot range with the introduction of a 3-level model, an addition to its 4- and 5-level units. Itemsto-go can be kept at a desired temperature – with the option to set a temperature per shelf between 40°C and 70°C, or to turn of single shelves at a time - saving on energy costs with a conduction heat and hot airflow recirculation system. Available in 60cm-, 90cm- or 120cm-wide models, with the option of a solid or passthrough back. frijado.com Unox’s new bake-off stacked unit combines its Bakertop Mind Maps combi oven, a Decktop Mind Maps deck oven and a Bakertop Mind Maps prover, with an integrated ventless extraction hood for sites with limited space producing a mix of baked and oven-cooked goods. The system can be fully automated via a touch screen control panel. unox.com

Michael Lane

Aquilo Refrigeration Equipment is using the R290 eco-friendly refrigerant to run a new range of fridges and freezers designed for highspec, affordable refrigeration. Specifically because it absorbs more heat than legacy refrigerants using R290 means the equipment requires less energy to function. The counter, undercounter, countertop and upright models come with a two-year parts and one-year labour warranties. Aquilo is offering bespoke and extended warranties on request. aquilore frigeration .co.uk

Recipe by Jules Mercer for Fine Food Digest Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

THE UK’S LEADING SHOWCASE OF ARTISANAL FOOD & DRINK Speciality & Fine Food Fair is set to return for another sensational edition on 5-6 September 2022 at Olympia London. Discover innovative new products, inspirational ideas and all the latest industry trends and insights from leading experts.

“Really pleased with the atmosphere, audience and organisation. It has been an amazing food focused event for us.” Frederick Kampman | Lowlanders Botanical Beers Co

SCAN HERE to sign up to our newsletter and be the ﬁrst to ﬁnd out when registration goes live.

www.specialityandfinefoodfairs.co.uk 2

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

CC22-140_MontgomeryGroup_SFFF_FineFoodDigestAdvert_230x315_06-22.indd 1

22/06/2022 15:09

Salted Caramel Bonbon and Praline Bonbon

Bella

CHOCOLATE

Luxury L uxuury ry ry

Give the gift of , handmade

chocolate this Christmas. Truffles Bonbons Vegan Options Gluten Free Options Christmas Hampers Artisan Chocolate Bars And much, much more.

Stornoway Black Pudding

Stornoway White Pudding

www.bellla-chocolate.co.uk bella-chocolate@outlook.com 01851 702 445 | sales@charlesmacleod.co.uk

@BellaChocolateUK

www.charlesmacleod.co.uk

CHRISTMAS 2022 CATALOGUE OUT NOW Speak to your account manager for more information and begin building your Christmas order today... Visit our website and login to view our catalogues and download a copy.

Scan me

Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

DELI OF THE MONTH In the space of three years, Ben Clark and Ella Smart have turned a pair of run-down barns on an East Anglian A-road into a bustling foodie destination. Here’s how they went from working in the fine-dining world to running a busy farm shop, gift shop and bakery. Interview by Tom Vaughan

It takes two IT’S THE HOTTEST WEEKEND of the year when FFD visits rural Essex, and while outside the tarmac might be practically melting, inside there is a cool serenity Ben & Ella’s farm shop. Baker Benjamin Clark has the last of the day’s loaves out of the oven and business partner Ella Smart calmly glides between the two black-timber formergrain stores that house their farm shop, gift shop and bakery. Three years in and the business is booming – turning over in excess of £1m – but it could have been a different story were it not for a chance suggestion. The couple, who met working at Michelin-starred Cambridge restaurant Alimentum, had left VITAL STATISTICS

Location: Baythorne End, Essex, CO9 4AH Turnover: £1.12m Average basket spend: £24 Retail space: 120sq m Average margin: 43% 52

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

the fine-dining world and were running a wholesale bakery when inspiration came from the unlikeliest of sources. “We were supplying another farm shop and there were a couple of girls who worked there that I know,” says Smart. “They had found this site and they said to us: ‘How do you feel about taking it on and we’ll come and work for you?’. We thought: ‘Okay, why not? Seize the opportunity while it is there’.” With Smart’s experience working frontof-house for the likes of Alimentum and Hotel du Vin, and Clark’s background as a pastry chef and self-taught baker – with Michelin heavyweights such as London’s The Square on his CV – the couple certainly

had a complementing set of skills to move into food retail. The first challenge, however, was turning the site from a run-down barn into a functioning business space. “It was part of a working farm that had just moved over the road. It was pretty rough,” says Clark. “There were carpets that had been down for 80 years, the whole floor needed levelling, lots of the timbers had woodworm. There was a huge amount of work.” And it was work that the couple did entirely themselves.“The only thing we paid for were the fridges, everything else we built or did ourselves,” says Smart. The couple had two guiding principles for the new shop: they wanted everything to be

as British and as environmentally-friendly as possible. At the centre of the offering is a selection of 40 British cheeses, supplied by Neal’s Yard and the Fine Cheese Company. “We both agreed that British cheeses are fantastic, but people don’t really know a lot about them,” says Clark. “Everyone thinks if you want a brie you have to go French. But there’s so many great English cheeses which, okay, they’re versions of French and Italian cheeses, but some of them we think are even better.” This dedication to British extends beyond the cheese, with 98% of products sourced from inside the UK – a number that will go up with the couple soon to source British-made pasta. Alongside the bought-in range are Clark’s handmade breads and pastries. Originally, their wholesale bakery worked through the night to supply the farm shop, as well as other local businesses. But the couple say one of their best decisions was to close the wholesale operation and move the bakery on site. Not only did it heighten the appeal to customers, but merging the two businesses also means Clark is now on-site. “Now we bake through the day. We don’t have all the breads baked for early in the morning,” says Clark. “That way, I can gauge whether I need to put more sourdough in the oven, and don’t have to throw out a load of bread come the end of the day.” On quieter weekdays, Clark might bake 40 loaves, but this sky-rockets to 150 at the weekends, with prices ranging from £2.70 for tin loaves up to £3.90 for sourdoughs. With everything made in house, profit margins on the bread and pastries are among the highest in the shop, but this has been eaten in to by flour shortages caused by the Ukraine war. “My wholesale price for flour has gone up from £10 to £14 for a 16kg bag,” says Clark. “We’ve put our prices up

by 20p, which is the first time we’ve done it in three years. But I don’t want to go too much higher, I think we’re still at a level that people are happy to pay and I don’t want to push that too much.” The popularity of the bakery’s grab-andgo products has helped to offset the rise in wholesale flour, says Smart: “Pies, sausage rolls, Scotch eggs, whole hams – because we make them all the profit is so much better than any other product that we’re buying in.” The rest of the food offering has evolved since the farm shop first opened its doors in 2019, when it was weighted more towards luxury products. “It wasn’t intentional, we were just gravitating towards the nicest items when we were picking them. And we ended up with a really expensive shop,” says Clark. Then Covid hit and everything changed. “We saw a massive influx of people coming from the supermarkets because I guess they didn’t want to be crammed in with everybody. So, for us it was about trying to find the products that you can get on the shelves in supermarkets. Now I’d say it’s a mix [of luxury and essential items].” The couple hasn’t ventured into raw meat – neighbouring Morgan’s Butchers caters for this – but otherwise, Ben & Ella’s hits almost every category customers would find in a supermarket. “If you wanted to, you could do your weekly shop here,” adds Smart. “We do everything – all the healthcare products, all the cleaning products.” Since opening, the shop has brought in a wide range of non-food items, from dogfood to shampoo, as well as a gift shop, in part thanks to the addition of a second retail space. With other businesses joining Ben & Ella’s in the surrounding buildings –

MUST-STOCKS Laura’s Fudge Marriage’s flour Findlaters pâtés Marsh Pig Charcuterie Single Variety Co. jams & preserves Homemade Sausage Rolls In Crust We Trust pork pies ByRubys frozen meals Silver & Green olives and nuts Neal’s Yard Dairy cheeses Homemade Market Sourdough Coffee Officina Rattlesden Eggs Brown Bag Crisps Cambridge Juices

CONTINUED ON PAGE 55

Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

D E C K YO U R S H E LV E S W I T H T H E F I N E S T

ENGLISH PEPPERMINT CHOCOLATES AND TEAS THIS CHRISTMAS

Made with our English Black Mitcham peppermint, grown on our farm in Hampshire www.summerdown.com

CLOSING · CODING · LABELLING · PACKAGING Whether you’re a start-up artisan producer or an established larger manufacturer or distributor, we have the labelling and packaging solutions for your needs. • Label and Barcode Printers and Software • Quality Plain and Bespoke Printed Labels and Printer Ribbons • Printed and Plain Polythene and Compostable Bags and Film • Bag Closures and Ties Please visit our website to see more information on our products, or contact us with your requirements and we will be happy to help.

enquiries@norpakltd.com | www.norpakltd.com | 01274 681022 54

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

DELI OF THE MONTH including a butcher, an antiques centre and a garden centre – the neighbouring barn became available and the couple pounced on it to expand their business. “One of the main reasons was I didn’t want anyone to take over and have different values to what we have.” Originally, they opened it as a gift shop, selling cards, books, candles, but rethought the model after a short period of trading. “It’s been a little bit of an evolution. We tried to run them as two separate shops originally,” says Clark. “And then after a while we kind of thought: we need to pick one or the other. We can’t be a gift shop and a farm shop as they operate quite differently in terms of buying stock and the margin. So that’s why we chose to reduce the gift shop idea.” Partly prompted by a flood to the original bakery site – a small room off the farm shop – the couple moved the bakery to the new barn, pairing it with their homeware section, and scaled down the gift shop to fit in its place. “It really made us focus on the

key sellers,” explains Clark. Gift trade can be slow and steady through the year, but Christmas is a different matter. “We can sit on stock for a while, but we know that it will all go at the end of the year,” says Smart. Underpinning all of this is the couple’s commitment to sourcing only environmentally-friendly products from their 180 suppliers. “The main thing for me was that the whole shop was palm oil free,” says Smart. “There’s absolutely no palm oil – including sustainable [palm oil] in any products. That goes across our whole gift range, all of our beauty and health care, all our food and bakery products. I’m very, very strict about it.” This dedication certainly costs them extra time speaking to wholesalers, who have been known to get it wrong, meaning the items have to be returned. And at times it has even cost them customers, but Clark and Smart have stuck to their guns. “Before we had the bakery on site, we were buying fresh cakes from a local lady. We specified no palm oil. Then another local farm shop

started using her as well, but because they didn’t care about palm oil, it was costing them three times less. People were asking us: why are we so expensive, are you taking the mickey?” As well as cutting out palm oil, Ben & Ella’s will not sell products packaged with single-use plastic. “When I when I look for new products, I always ask what the packaging is to make sure that if there is plastic, it is recyclable or has it been recycled? It’s another thing that we have to we have to do our research on.” With three years of trading under their belts and Ben & Ella’s now firmly established as a foodie destination, its founders aren’t settling for two barns, but have their crosshairs set on neighbouring towns. “We’re looking at the moment,” replies Clark. “Since the beginning we’ve had an idea of smaller satellite sites, selling the main items: the bread, the cheese, the veg. They’ll work us extra advertisement and pull more and more people towards the main shop.” benandellasfarmshop.co.uk

The only thing we paid for were the fridges, everything else we built or did ourselves

Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

Be a better retailer. Master your cheese counter. The Guild of Fine Food has been training retailers for over 30 years, providing practical hands-on dairy knowledge. Understanding cheese and how to sell it effectively gives your store a point of difference. Combine that retail training with an Academy of Cheese accreditation and you’ll have a shop where customers enjoy their cheese, learn more about it, and ultimately, buy better cheese.

YOUR LEARNING ROAD…

1 RETAIL CHEESE COURSE

One-day classroom with the Guild of Fine Food This one-day course for anyone in retail, is an unrivalled introduction to understanding cheese and how to sell it. You’ll be introduced to the major families of cheese and how to identify them through tutored tastings. Most importantly, you’ll learn how to sell better cheese more successfully from your counter.

ACADEMY OF CHEESE LEVEL TWO

ACADEMY OF CHEESE LEVEL ONE

Join us at the Guild’s HQ close to Borough Market, London, for a two-day course continuing your academic journey in cheese. Building on the Retail Cheese and Level One courses, you will apply more rigour to nine distinct areas within cheese.

You will be introduced to the Academy’s Structured Approach to Tasting and discover a range of tools to help you communicate more effectively about cheese. You will study and taste 25 iconic cheeses before your online exam and gaining your first Academy of Cheese certification.

Two-day classroom with the Guild of Fine Food

Self-study

RETAIL CHEESE COURSE

ACADEMY OF CHEESE LEVEL TWO

London 4 July

London 27-28 September

London 15 September

Scotland 20 September

gff.co.uk/training bookings@gff.co.uk +44 (0) 1747 825200

The Retail Cheese course is supported by

Pantone 286 CVC Pantone 871 CVC

The Guild of Fine Food is a founding patron of the Academy of Cheese @guildoffinefood gff.co.uk | +44 (0)1747 825200

Festive Flavours in a bottle Award-winning British Food Gifts & Products

LIMITED EDITION

Download trade brochure

01386291004 | trade.rossandrossgifts.co.uk

Juicy cranberries & zesty oranges...a great balsamic! Trade orders welcome!

www.burrenbalsamics.com chef@burrenbalsamics.com @burrenbalsamics

Quote FFD10 at checkout for 10% off orders before 31st August

Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

e be as r ur O tive an Ple s fo s c u fe ck ct. ith . k e s pa dir w tail o.u h c ft gi red ouc de en. de t re ch or in mo kit t b ge ni ro

A delicious taste of the tropics gift set Order now for Christmas

Award-winning Welsh food company, run by foodies for foodies. If you’re after delicious pâtés and amazing tastes you’ve come to the right place!

01824 705832 www.patchworkfoods.com patchworkfoods @patchworkfoods

ronibkitchen.co.uk

Succulent and Tasty Free-Range and Slow-Grown Turkeys Raised the old fashioned way by family-run Temple Farm for over 50 years!

ENGLISH RUSSET APPLE JUICE

ENGLISH BRAMLEY APPLE JUICE

ENGLISH DISCOVERY APPLE JUICE

ENGLISH APPLE JUICE WITH GINGER

Visit us online or contact us to discover our great range of juices. We supply good food shops, hotels, pubs and restaurants.

“Our exceptional quality Christmas turkeys are the result of years of experience, raising birds in a traditional respectful way. The slow-growing breeds we choose and the way they are raised to full maturity provides a natural fat layer and marbling of the meat. This means your Temple Farm Turkey will be easy to cook, offering an enhanced flavour and succulence that surpasses supermarket birds. Our birds are dry plucked and then hung like a game bird for at least seven days to ensure a rich and natural flavour.”

www.sjfrederick.co.uk 01279 792460 enquiries@sjfrederick.co.uk 58

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

01489 878685 | info@hillfarmjuice.co.uk www.hillfarmjuice.co.uk |

SHELF TALK Wine brand Green Roots looks to offer sustainability in small packages been about taking control back,” Coulthurst said. “This process enables us to retain almost total control of our production, of our brand and of our labelling. If we were to let this brand go into a supermarket, we could lose control very quickly. That’s not something we need to do.” “We would like to work with customers who share our passion and drive for sustainability.” While the cans themselves are recyclable, the format also offers a model for reducing the carbon footprint of wine and tackles wastage of the product itself by offering a smaller quantity. “There’s a very clear connection between sustainability and recyclability, although they’re not the same thing, so consumer perception is obviously vital,” said Coulthurst. All of Green Roots’ wine is transported in flexi-tanks and packaged in the UK, which Coulthurst said tackles the often-ignored environmental concern of shipping emissions. Throughout its ranges, Las Bodegas, which has been nominated in two Global Good Awards categories this year, seeks out responsible packaging, including 100% biodegradable labels made from sugarcane, 65%-recycled lightweight glass bottles, and 20 litre KeyKegs – as well as the fully recyclable, 100%-recycled cans used in the new launch.

By Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox

Green Roots is hoping that the familiarity of its initial range of wines will help consumers embrace its canned format – and achieve its goal of making the supply chain more sustainable. The Planet Mark certified range recently launched by wine importer Las Bodegas features white, red and rosé options (all in 250ml cans with an RRP of £3.45), made from a blend of Spanish Syrah and Garnacha grapes for the red, another Spanish blend for the white and a French Syrah and Cinsault for the rosé. Operations manager Alastair Coulthurst told FFD that Greens Roots had chosen these tried-and-tested wines from established Las Bodegas suppliers because many consumers were not used to wine in cans. “We wanted to make sure that it’s a wine style that they’re familiar with, that is commercial in the UK, and importantly that is priced right,” he said, adding that the brand is already looking at expanding the range with organic wines and an Argentinian Malbec. Available from wholesaler Diverse Fine Food, Green Roots is seeking more independent stockists, especially farm shops and delis, as it wants to work with suppliers that appreciate the quality of the product in the can. “As a business, a lot of what we’ve done has

WHAT’S NEW Japanese fine food purveyor Clearspring has released a range of single ingredient organic tahinis. The white and whole sesame varieties come in 280g jars for £3.99 RRP, while the rarer black sesame weighs 170g with an RRP of £3.29. All are available via major health food wholesalers. clearspring.co.uk

Pickled pepper company JS is now selling its ‘Lily Peppers’ in 800g tins in addition to the 280g retail jar and the 2700g ‘loose serve’ tins. All are available as mild & sweet and hot & spicy. RRP for the retail jar is £3.75 / £4.00. jslily.com

Created as an alternative to processed protein products, ROAM has extended its range of grass-fed beef products with two sweet and savoury wholefood snacking bars, which in addition to beef and whey protein contain smoked paprika, cranberry & almond in one bar, chicory root, apricots and hazelnuts in the other. RRP £14.76 per six bars. roamfood.com

Paley Photography

Counter points Olives

Hackney Gelato is expanding its range with new trade products – a 4.5L and 100ml Cappuccino Gelato, a 4.5L Passionfruit Sorbetto (trade only, £80) 460ml tubs of Chocolate & Brownie Gelato (RRP £5.50) and 100ml tubs of Sicilian Lemon Sorbetto. (RRP £3) The Cappuccino, Chocolate & Brownie and Sicilian Lemon are all new recipes. The company’s founders, Sam Newman and Enrico Pavoncelli, met when working as chefs at Michelin-starred Locanda Locatelli and created their gelato for restaurants before expanding to the retail sector. hackneygelato.com

Food writer and former deli owner Glynn Christian offers up some category-specific conversation starters to sharpen your sales technique.

• Olives are green, violet, natural black and processed black. • Black olives are naturally purple or brownish, not black. • Some olive trees provide both green and black varieties. • Green olives are usually put into a soda (lye) solution, reducing bitterness, softening and lightly cooking and then put into brine for lactic acid fermentation. • Once cured, olives are stored in brine, vinegar or, rarely, oil.

• Oil curing puts ripe olives into salt to dry and concentrate, and then into oil to hydrate again. • It is more important to keep olives out of light rather than refrigerated. • Ripe olives may be sterilized before putting into brine and fermented by yeast action. • Brine levels should always cover olives. • Sliced lemon prevents mould growing on brine. • Draining, rinsing and coating in oil is the best way to extend life.

This is an extract from Glynn Christian’s book Taste! How to Choose the Best Deli Ingredients, published by Grub Street

Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

SHELF TALK WHAT’S NEW Borna Foods is releasing 40g impulse Trail Mix packs. Borna Blue (blueberries, cashews, banana & coconut) and Borna Red (cherries, almonds, raisins & single origin Tanzanian chocolate) both have an RRP of £1.95. bornafoods.com The Welsh Saucery has released its products to independent retailers in Wales. Three sauce ranges will feature alongside three spice rubs: Sleeping Dragon, Indian-style Kebab and Garam Masala. RRP £3.95£4.95, trade price £2.45-£3.30. thewelshsaucery. co.uk Shwen Shwen is introducing a range of juices. Mango Lemonade, Ginger Beer, Hibiscus & Strawberry Juice, Ginger & Hibiscus Juice, Lavender & Coconut Water and Sweet & Sour Tamarind Juice all come in 250ml bottles shwenshwen. com

My magic ingredient Fruits of the Forage Sloe Seville Marmalade DANIEL WILLIAMS Project Manager, Godfrey C. Williams & Sons We always keep a healthy store of Fruits of the Forage’s Sloe Seville Marmalade to sell to customers (and for me to eat myself). They’re probably very easy to look up: they won a Great Taste 3-stars for this product in 2017. Fruits of the Forage is a local company to us in Cheshire – Macclesfield, to be precise. As their name suggests, they use foraged ingredients and ones that would otherwise go to waste, so it’s got a good story behind it. The Sloe Seville Marmalade is so versatile, either on its own or as an ingredient. At Christmas, we put it through the middle of a roasted ham and have it on the counter. It works very well. Even though it’s a marmalade, the fruitiness offsets savoury notes. That means it pairs incredibly well with cheese, so we can upsell it from the deli counter.

At Christmas, we put it through the middle of a roasted ham and have it on the counter as. It works very well.

Kandy Kitchen Creations doubles down on gluten-free By Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox

Rochdale-based ‘Super Simple’ stacked food products purveyor Kandy Kitchen Creations is broadening its range of gluten-free products. The company’s white chocolate and cranberry cookies, chocolate brownies, chocolate orange brownies, flapjacks and chocolate chip cookies are now gluten-free, with more recipe changes to follow for existing products as well as new additions to the ranges. Almost half of the company’s ready meals – stews, risottos, soups and puddings, all at an RRP of £5.49 - are gluten-free and vegan. These include the Chicken & Leek Risotto; Chicken & Mushroom Risotto; Italian Pine Nut Risotto; Tomato & Red Pepper Risotto; Paella; Coconut Curried Lentil Soup; Minestrone Soup; Moroccan Tagine Soup; Quinoa, Tomato & Red Pepper Soup And The Spicy Mulligatawny Soup. Named after owners Karen and Andy Turner, who came up with the idea for the stacked ready 60

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

meal bags while on a trip to Canada in 2017, the company has, on average, doubled its output every year since it launched. After winning the Rochdale Business Awards’ New Business of the Year, the couple recently put their pitch of ‘Super Simple’ products to the BBC’s Dragon’s Den, where they were told that their ‘food tubes’ were “exceptional,”“a cracking idea” and a “great innovative concept,” receiving a joint offer of £50,000 from TV investment moguls Peter Jones, Deborah Meaden and Touker Suleyman for a 33.33% share of their business. A flurry of interest ensued – the couple made and delivered 18,000 in the three months that followed - prompting the decision to move production to a larger unit in view of ramping up output and increasing sales to more farm shops, gift shops, garden centres and butchers – with an eye on supermarkets within the next few years. kandykitchencreations.co.uk

Speciality producer Matthews Cotswolds Flour has added three stoneground wholegrain ancient grain flours to its range, all available in 1.5kg bags. The Einkorn berry (RRP £3.90), known as “the mother of all wheat,” is suitable for all recipes calling for wholegrain flour, while the easily digestible Emmer (RRP £4.90) imparts a nutty, slightly sweet flavour ideal for mixing through pasta or bread recipes. The Khorasan variety (RRP £3.90), which dates back to the ancient Egyptians, is coarse and absorbent, making it a good addition to sourdoughs, flatbreads, wholegrain pasta, brownies and biscuits. cotswoldflour.com

GODMINSTER STARS

Arriving in September for Christmas 2022

The must-have Christmas cheese is back for 2022! Stock is limited so place your pre-orders now to avoid disappointment. New to Godminster? Call the team on 01749 813733 or email sales@godminster.com to find out more about the range.

Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

@sarahgrays__ Sarah Grays

www.sarahgrays.co.uk info@sarahgrays.co.uk 01241 860221

Something Different for Cheese Fruit Cake Perfect for gifting this festive season www.stagbakeries.co.uk

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

Our Chilli Jam is made with fresh Chillies all chopped by hand. The perfect addition to a cheese board, salad or sandwich.

SHELF TALK MEET THE PRODUCER Caroline Barton’s master’s degree in ceramics & glass served her well to lecture in 3D Design at the University for Creative Arts, but it was her passion for food and healthy eating that led her to create nut milk brand nooj. What were you doing before you launched your brand? I lectured in 3D Design, then started a family. I was looking for creative business ideas to start myself, and that’s when I came up with nooj. Why did you decide to launch nooj? I used to make my own nut milk as I didn’t want to pay for the amount of water in current offerings. I deliberately added less and less water as we (a family of 4) had a tiny fridge and it was easier to store as a more ‘concentrated’ product and then add water to it before use. It seemed such an obvious and versatile idea that I assumed there was something similar on the market already. When I discovered there wasn’t, I decided to get behind the concept and set about developing the product in order to bring it to market.

Getting production off the ground was difficult, and if the product is popular, we’ll be looking at how to scale up. It has also been a struggle to find a UK manufacturer as we use an allergen, combined with water – which is an added microbial hazard - and a specific set of kit. As it’s a unique product, it was hard to find a supplier to tick all those boxes who was also prepared to take on the risk. What’s the best thing about running a small company? It’s a very creative process and not dissimilar to using materials in a creative sense, in that you ask yourself, ‘how can this material with all its constraints become this thing that I envisage?’ That’s very satisfying. I get to work with other creative people too and their input is very rewarding.

It seemed such an obvious and versatile idea that I assumed there was something similar on the market already.

What differentiates your product from the many dairy alternatives already out there? It’s a flexible product that can be used widely in the kitchen to replicate and stand in for a lot of other products, as well as the basis for a milk. Reducing water weight in products to lower their carbon footprint is of growing importance to people, though something that was further down my list of attributes when I first started out. What’s been the biggest business lesson you’ve learned? Was it hard getting the company and production off the ground? Where shall I start! I think my biggest challenge so far has been dealing with manufacturers. I am still learning how to strike a balance between selling them the opportunity, realising when they aren’t as committed as they maintain, and understanding their constant awareness of risk versus reward.

And the worst? The unknown. Despite your vision and passion it’s still a gamble but it’s better to try. What’s next for nooj? I’ll be looking at wider distribution and the development of new lines.

WHAT’S NEW Tapping in to the market for ketogenic, paleo and vegan products, House of Macadamias has brought three flavours of its South African nuts to the UK market. The Onion, Lightly Salted and Chocolate-Dipped editions (40g) are free of added sugar, palm oil and synthetic additives. RRP £3 (£3.16 for chocolatedipped varieties). houseofmacadamias.co.uk Sustainable coffee roastery Hundred House Coffee is raising funds for its nonprofit Art + Industry Programme to support independent artists with an experimental series of ‘Freak and Unique’ coffees. The range includes flavour combinations such as Tangy Watermelon with Orange Blossom, Cinnamon with Spiced Rum and Strawberry Bootlace. RRP £17.50, 150g. hundredhousecoffee.com Purveyor of hot sauces made for pizza Firelli is introducing Extra Hot and Truffle versions of its all-natural condiment, tweaking the original recipe of Calabrian chillies, roasted red peppers, balsamic vinegar, Italian sea salt and porcini mushrooms to include cayenne pepper in the former, and a hint of black truffle in the latter. The sauces are distributed by Petty Wood and with a RRP of £3.95 and £5.99 respectively. firelli.com East-London oat drink brand Minor Figures is making its way into the chilled section with the release of two Everyday Oat M*lks. The new plantbased drink, available as a standard or ‘light’ version, is said to offer a thicker mouthfeel than its long-life equivalent. It remains free of GMOs and added sugar, and it is fortified with calcium, iodine, & vitamins B2, B12, and D. The milks are already available in Waitrose and Holland and Barrett, with the brand looking to expand its reach into coffee shops and independent retail. RRP £1.99, 1 litre cartons. minorfigures.com Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

from the home of real vanilla... ...to real vanilla in your home Dear Customer, Support the Vanilla farmers and fill your home with the warmth of the tropics with the world’s favourite ingredient whose compounds naturally calm and uplift you. Gather with your family and friends this Christmas, offer them the taste and smell of REAL Vanilla for an experience that will dominate the memory. With Vanilla hugs from LittlePod.

ERT XP L

PRODUCE OF ENGLAND

HAN

PREMIUM ENGLISH FRUIT WINE DC AF R

www.littlepod.co.uk @little_pod

www.cliveswines.co.uk YOU’VE

GOT

STUFF-A-STOCKING OR As se Drag en on on 20th s’ Den, J 202 anuary 2-S 19 Ep eries 3

Natural, Hearty, Tasty Family Meals Soups, Stews and Risottos:

• Can add meat and veg if required. • Herbs, spices and stock all included, just add water. • Four portions per packet. • Gluten Free and Vegan options available. • Some can be made in a slow cooker as well as on the hob.

Puddings:

• Simple, easy to follow instructions • Just need eggs and margarine, a cooker or fridge. Ideal for: Camping, self-catering welcome baskets, hampers and gifts etc. Deli, Farm Shop, Garden Centre and Food Hall shelves.

Kandykitchencreations@gmail.com | 07814 824180 www.kandykitchencreations.co.uk

www.kandykitchencreations.co.uk 64

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

TWO!

Moons Green Beer Sticks are a delicously chewable, long thin saucission available in eight delicious varieties and are a great addition to your Christmas hampers, corporate gift lists or deli and farm shop stock. Small minimum orders and quick delivery as standard.

01797 253807 moonsgreen.co.uk

JOY ON A PLATE Kentish Handmade Cheese

For generations now, our family has been making a real commitment to taste and excellence, hoping to help you add a bit of magic to every mealtime.

A traditional unpasteurised, cloth bound cellar matured hard cheese from the county of Kent.

Introducing this year’s 3-star award-winner Slow Braised Shortrib

One of the most local farm produced cheeses to London One of the most local farm produced cheeses to London and soon achieving carbon neutral production. and now carbon neutrally produced.

www.winterdale.co.uk +44 (0)1732 820021 Winterdale, Platt House Lane, Wrotham, Sevenoaks, Kent TN15 7LX

www.jameswhelanbutchers.com | Info@jwb.ie

So What Keeps Us At Khanya Craft Award-Winning Coffee Up At Night? Silly Question.

Khanya Craft Coffee is borne out of an obsession to find the best, ethically sourced single estate Arabica beans and the best blends on the planet. Which is why our coffees have won so many awards. Sourcing, service and innovation for our clients is what makes us tick – like our great coffee. Call Bernard on+353 (0) 086 388 3001 | e: bernard@khanyacraftcoffee.com | www.khanyacraftcoffee.com Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

Our award-winning flour is produced from the finest ancient grains which are sustainably grown in the beautiful British countryside. Our entire range carry the highly sought after Great Taste 2 and 3 star awards, in recognition of outstanding quality and flavour. Available in 1kg and 20kg bags. Minimum order 2 boxes of 10 × 1 kg bags. No delivery charges. Call or email today for a trade price list

Sustainably farmed

BRC certified products

High in protein & fibre

Competitive & stable pricing

01740 629 529 | info@craggsandco.co.uk | www.craggsandco.co.uk

July 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 6

GUILD TALK

View from HQ

By John Farrand managing director

THE GUILD HAS recently supported a local (but with national and international reach) festival. We introduced a talk on rural and farming life from the 1940s to the present day and beyond, making the obvious link to food and drink. It was only 12 miles or so from the office but a quick glance at the fuel gauge meant I needed to fill up. As the numbers on the pump sped towards £50 and then £60, and then over £70, I had to release the trigger and the tank was not much over halfway full. In late June the rate of inflation

news from the guild of fine food hit 9.1%, a 40-year high and, as our lead news story explores the costof-living crisis on page 5, it hits our sector as much as any other in food and drink. History and hearsay dictate that the deli and farm shop sector weather a recession reasonably well. The early 1990s and late 2000s were a relative boom time for many, as shoppers traded-up at home rather than eating out to save money. That trend was reflected in lockdowns, although the stayingat-home was enforced for different reasons. Reading comment from retailers, I have some doubts we will relish this inevitable recession with such glee. Our talk at the Chalke Valley History Festival drew parallels between hard times, exploring postwar Britain and how that influenced food and farming dramatically then, and has done until the present-day. 90-year-old Allen Chalk, one of the speakers, had worked on the same farm in the local area since he was 14. He described the scarcity of meat, catching the odd hare and hiding it in his jacket to smuggle home, and how locals grew or foraged (now, of course a food trend) their own, simple, nutritious, and

The Word on Westminster By Edward Woodall ACS

FOLLOWING THE CONFIDENCE vote in the Prime Minister, there is much speculation about the future of Boris Johnson. His victory in the vote is not clear cut, ultimately 148 MPs do not support his leadership – not a great endorsement. Nevertheless, the current Conservative Party rules mean he is safe for 12 months and he doesn’t look likely to throw in the towel. The results of the two by-elections came in as this magazine was going to press and the Conservative Party has lost both seats. No doubt, the Prime Minister’s detractors will use this to

further undermine his leadership. But the real worry should be the impact of this instability on the Government. Can the Prime Minister and the Cabinet focus on policy delivery when they are fighting internally? The proposals to review the use imperial measures on goods suggests they are not focused on policy outputs. Imperial measures have not been on businesses’ radar or the minds of consumers. In fact, it would increase administrative burdens on businesses and confuse consumers. There are other signals too. For example, the publication of the Food White Paper with some high ambitions, including greater

news from the guild of fine food

sustainable food. The discussion moved on with a stat from the Chair, that in the 1950s we spent a third of our income on food shopping, but in 1974 this had gone down to 24%. By 2016, food shopping accounted for

Sign-up for our support bulletin

Should we be looking at how we divvie up our monthly wage? just 10.5% of our income. The trend has continued. And that makes you think. There is certainly a cost-of-living crisis caused by the well-known external factors, but should the nation be looking at how we divvie up our monthly or weekly wage? Food and drink has been too cheap for too long and perhaps our priorities are out of kilter. Nutritious, healthy ingredients wouldn’t feel more expensive right now if households had been spending a third of their income over the last decade. partnership with businesses, but little detail on how to achieve them. With inflation now over 9% and likely to increase further as fuel and food costs rise over the next 12 months, we need focus in Government. This means helping business weather the storm as well as consumers. Retailers we speak to are seeing product, utility and labour costs increasing at such a vast rate they cannot protect their customers from higher prices. What we need is support to invest in energy saving equipment, more flexibility to train staff and a tax and regulatory system that instils confidence to invest. Edward Woodall is government relations director at the ACS edward.woodall@acs.org.uk

Our industry continues to face an incredibly challenging time, that’s why the Guild has continued to send out its support bulletin via email every fortnight. It aims to identify the information and Government support specifically relevant to independent food retailers and the producers who supply them. It also includes practical business advice and ideas from our community on smarter retailing, industry connections, and provides some much-needed “good news” stories. Sign up at: bit.ly/support-bulletin

Great Taste runs the numbers More than 3,500 food & drink producers will be eagerly awaiting their results and feedback from Great Taste 2022 after judging concluded in June. 14,205 products have now been through the Great Taste judging system and over 500 judges have joined the Guild this year, to determine who has won a 1-star, 2-star or 3-star award. Mark your diaries for results day on Monday 1st August to find out who all the winners are. gff.co.uk/greattaste

The Guild of Fine Food represents fine food shops and specialist suppliers. Want to join them? GENERAL ENQUIRIES Guild of Fine Food Guild House, 23b Kingsmead Business Park, Shaftesbury Road, Gillingham, Dorset SP8 5FB UK Tel: +44 (0) 1747 825200 Fax: +44 (0) 1747 824065 info@gff.co.uk gff.co.uk

THE GUILD TEAM: Managing director: John Farrand Special projects director: Tortie Farrand Sales director: Sally Coley Operations & marketing director: Christabel Cairns

Sales manager: Ruth Debnam Sales executive: Becky Haskett

Operations coordinators: Chris Farrand Sepi Rowshanaei

Marketing manager: Sophie Brentnall

Data & systems project manager: Lindsay Farrar

Operations managers: Claire Powell Meredith White

gff.co.uk Finance director: Ashley Warden Financial controller: Stephen Guppy Accounts assistant: Julie Coates Chairman: Bob Farrand Director: Linda Farrand

Vol.23 Issue 6 | July 2022

FFD July 2022

Articles inside

FOCUS ON

SHOP TALK

GUILD TALK

SHELF TALK

CHEESEWIRE