FFD June 2022 by Guild of Fine Food

June 2022 Volume 23 Issue 5 gff.co.uk

Classic combo A recipe to up your deli sandwich game

ALSO INSIDE Mrs Temple’s Cheese Dugard & Daughters Northern product round-up

FINE FOOD SHOW NORTH 2022 FULL PREVIEW INSIDE

June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

CONTENTS 5

NEWS

Whether you’re popping down the road or getting on a plane, it’s good to get out.

10 SHOP TALK 17 CHEESEWIRE 23 CHARCUTERIE

By Michael Lane, editor

27 PREVIEW: FINE FOOD

It’s flattering when people ask you for advice, isn’t it? The other day I got an email from a retailer in the Midlands who was travelling to London and they were looking for suggestions about shops and good food spots to check out during their trip. Thankfully I have made a few trips to town recently and was able to make some recommendations fairly confidently. But this exchange made me realise that I used to travel – both within the UK and further afield – a lot more. We all did until the pandemic. A fellow Great Taste judge was telling me last month about a research trip in India that they had just returned from – they had also taken their kids. While my own children are a little less gastronomically inclined (getting them to clean their plates feels like an achievement), this conversation made me feel that I should be a bit more ambitious.

SHOW NORTH 45 FOCUS ON: THE NORTH OF ENGLAND 51 FOODSERVICE 55 SHELF TALK 58 DELI OF THE MONTH 63 GUILD TALK

Whether you’re popping down the road or getting on a plane, it’s good to get out. This applies especially to people that feel very tied to the businesses they run. Without stating the obvious, it’s a lot harder to meet people, discover fresh ideas and try new products if you are chained to the shop floor or the production kitchen. Don’t beat yourself up, though, because you can make up for lost time at Fine Food Show North trade show, which is happening in Harrogate this month. I’ll be there, along with the Guild of Fine Food team, so please do say ‘hello’. But more importantly, you should get among all of the stands and find some new things for your shelves. Aside from the show preview (which starts on page 27), we’ve also got a feature on new launches from the North of England (page 45) to whet your appetite for a visit to the show – or so you don’t completely

miss out if you can’t make it. Of course, it may not be retailing Stockholm Syndrome keeping you from leaving the helm. Supplies issues, price pressure and new legislation will all obviously weighing heavily on your mind, but we’ll continue to keep you up to speed as we have done in this issue. You might also not want to travel because it’s simply not sustainable (with the fuel prices as they are, I wouldn’t blame you). This touches on another positive theme that is spreading more through our own pages and the industry. With an increasing number of companies achieving B Corp status (there’s a good example on page 17) and more businesses expressing their ethical goals, it feels like our corner of the food industry is leading by example. Yes, there’s plenty to discuss this month. And if you want my advice, we should all be getting out there more and talking about it.

June 2022 Volume 23 Issue 5 gff.co.uk

Are you coming to Harrogate?

Classic combo A recipe to up your deli sandwich game

ALSO INSIDE Mrs Temple’s Cheese Dugard & Daughters Northern product round-up

FINE FOOD SHOW NORTH 2022 FULL PREVIEW INSIDE Cover photography: Michael Lane

FINE FOOD SHOW NORTH is a diary highlight for the Fine Food Digest team and we will be there to speak to as many visiting retailers and exhibiting producers as possible. You’ll notice that the show is back in its traditional June timeslot after moving about a bit over the last few years – and it’s a welcome return.

The timing is ideal for buyers. The summer rush won’t be in full swing, so you should have some time to step away from the counter, top up your seasonal offer and get some of that all-important planning into gear for December. Make sure to use our show guide (page 27) to help you get around and don’t forget to look for us in the aisles at the YEC.

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Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

NEWS

Supermarket price cuts and wage increases making life tougher for indies By Greg Pitcher

Supermarkets are piling pressure on independent retailers by cutting prices and raising wages despite the economic storm. A number of the large chain retailers have announced price cuts or wage increases this year as they battle for market share and positive industrial relations amid the cost-ofliving crisis. This is leaving many fine food purveyors in a difficult position trying to retain and attract customers and staff while costs soar. Daniel Williams, project manager at Godfrey C Williams & Son, said the Cheshire business had noticed a direct impact from a local supermarket. “We advertised for a cheesemonger for our counter and it wasn’t filled because the local Waitrose was also looking for people and paying more,” he said. “Meanwhile they might

The cost-of-living-crisis has prompted supermarkets to cut prices

have offers on products that we can’t compete with.” To allow it to raise wages further, the cheese specialist has tweaked its product range to generate more income. “We have gone into English wine, which gives fewer storage issues than cheese and offers a greater profit margin.” “Our initial strategy was for most of our wines to be in the £15-£25 range,” explained Williams. “But with the cost-of-living

Waitrose adds to delis and boosts support for pig farming Waitrose has added a number of lines to its deli counters, as well as reintroducing its Wine Tasting at Home service and providing a support package to British pig farmers. The upmarket chain has listed lines from British charcuterie producer Capreolus, biscuit-maker The Drinks Bakery and smoked salmon brand Pished Fish. It has also bolstered its own-label offer with new Continental charcuterie products and, according to a report in The Grocer, it will be making physical improvements to a number of its in-store counters. At the end of April, Waitrose announced

the relaunch of its Wine Tasting at Home service, which can now be carried out in-person having been offered virtually over the past two years due to social distancing measures. The retailer also unveiled a support package for its British pig farmers, which could amount to £16m, after pork prices dropped due a fall in exports and an oversupply in the UK market.

crisis we’ve adapted to offer more wine at under £15 with in-store tastings to show their value.” Emma Mosey, co-owner of Yolk Farm & Minskip Farm Shop said the North Yorkshire business has been working hard to find ways to keep employees happy. On top of a “significant” wage increase this year, the retailer has increased the staff discount in its shop and restaurant and organised more team events. Taking a long-term

view remained critical, Mosey said. “In the short term, what the supermarkets are strategising is effective, but if inflation continues to rise, increased costs and wages across the board on businesses of that size are not sustainable.” Andrew Goodacre, chief executive of the British Independent Retailers Association, warned the pressure from supermarkets could intensify. “There is a real danger that large companies will exert even more buying power – whether it is for stock or for labour,” he said. “The cost-of-living crisis is making it harder to retain and recruit people into indie retailing. There is also significant pressure from large companies to keep prices of known-value items low. Once again this will place pressure on the smaller retailer who simply does not have the same power with suppliers.”

Most multiples are adjusting to cost-of-living crsis Asda and Morrisons both lost market share during the first 12 weeks of this year after becoming “progressively less price-competitive” in 2021, according to Dominic Miles, global head of consumer at advisory firm L.E.K. Consulting. Both retailers had since responded with “major initiatives to re-establish their price competitiveness,” he added, while other supermarkets remained “extremely focused on keeping pricing in check”. At the same time, Tesco, Sainsbury’s and Morrisons are among the big names to pledge wages of at least £10 per hour to shop staff – well above legal minimums. German discount chains Lidl and Aldi have also upped pay for staff to more than £10. Iceland is now offering over-60s shoppers money off their groceries every Tuesday. Research by the Office for National Statistics showed householders were thinking more carefully about spending on groceries, said Miles. This could result in fewer trips to independent stores, he warned, “potentially amplified by a heightened perception of [them] being expensive as a result of the major grocer price initiatives”.

WHAT THEY ARE SAYING ABOUT... COUNTERACTING THE SUPERMARKETS DANIEL WILLIAMS, GODFREY C WILLIAMS & SON, CHESHIRE

“I would consider looking at products that provide a worthwhile profit margin and dumping those items that aren’t. We used to have a Chinese and Indian sauce range but if they just sit on the shelves, you have to cut them loose. It comes down to maintaining your unique selling points and adapting what takes priority.” DOMINIC MILES, L.E.K CONSULTING

“The key goal must be to maintain the level of relevance and consumer interest in the store – for example, by emphasising the product quality at a farm shop, or the service level at a high street deli. Alongside this, there may be a need to adjust the range and price architecture to help consumers through the squeeze.” ANDREW GOODACRE, BRITISH INDEPENDENT RETAILERS ASSOCIATION

“Ultimately the smaller retailer will need to continue to focus on local – for people and products. Provenance is still a strong marketing tool, as is sustainability, and I would urge the indie retailer to take a lead in these two areas to compete.”

Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

NEWS

CYBER CRIME

HFSS display laws are another “burden” for farm shops By Greg Pitcher

New laws limiting the way retailers can display “less healthy” products are causing a fresh challenge for independents during an increasingly difficult trading period. Farm shops warned that the Food (Promotion and Placement) (England) Regulations 2021 would add to their “burden” amid soaring bills and disrupted supply in the wake of the pandemic and the war in Ukraine. The law, due to come into force on 1st October, places strict limits on where larger stores can place goods classed as being high in fat, salt or sugar (HFSS) – ruling out displays near tills, queues and entrances. The enforcement of a second part of the regulations, concerning restrictions on promotions of higher volume HFSS purchases (such as multi-

buy deals), has recently been deferred by the Government for a further year until October 2023. The detail of exactly which retailers, products and promotions are affected is complex but many in the sector will need to address it. Farm shops are particularly in the spotlight as many meet the criteria of employing more than 50 people and having a retail area of more than 2,000sq ft. Farm Retail Association chairman Rupert Evans said his members “intrinsically promote heathy food” yet “find themselves caught up in the new legislation”. He added that communication of the

regulations had been “poor” and voiced concern over the timing of implementation. “The horrific humanitarian crisis in Ukraine has knock-on effects to the global food chain, coupled with the lockdown in Shanghai,” said Evans. “This is another administrative burden that will have to be faced – and the timing is far from ideal.” Rob Copley, owner of Yorkshire-based shop, café and events venue Farmer Copleys, said the law could have major implications for the business. “We are still getting our heads around what it means,” he said. “We put in a 10m deli counter last year with an integrated ice cream counter that is within 2m of a till – I spent £125,000 putting it in and now we may have

Early adaptation: how Belvoir Farms has prepared for HFSS changes Independent producers of food and drink products are wrestling with the implications of the incoming “less healthy” food laws. Pev Manners, managing director at Belvoir Farm Drinks, said the Leicestershire firm had been working on the issue for 18 months. “It has been coming down the track at us,” he said. “We make indulgent sparkling drinks and people buying premium products want sugar. “HFSS legislation is going to hit our sparkling drinks big time because we can’t promote them on retailers’ secondary space such as gondola ends.” The drinks-maker has tweaked its range to offer 6

June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

more low-sugar products. “We’ve launched a range of botanical sodas, which are made from a little bit of fruit and a little bit of sugar. They are HFSS-exempt and they’re going quite well. “We are shaping our range partly in response to this regulation – and because we think it is a big market. The amount of sugar in drinks is going down. Consumer tastes are slowly changing.” Manners said that

while supermarket sales remained a big part of the company’s strategy, it would also consider boosting its deliveries to smaller retailers who don’t have to comply with the latest regulations. “We still sell a lot to the specialists, it is very important to us, a vital part of our business,” he said. “Because we make our products with enormous care and very high quantities of delicious ingredients, they do carry the higher prices in some speciality stores. “There is an opportunity for independents, they have to work with suppliers and pass discounts on to consumers.”

IN BRIEF to move it to be within the law.” Copley compared the administrative task of understanding and complying with the unhealthy food rules with that related to Natasha’s Law, which came into effect last October requiring full ingredients lists on all food pre-packed directly for sale. While he understood the importance of that legislation – which was introduced after the death of Natasha EdnanLaperouse, who suffered an allergic reaction to a sandwich – Copley said the HFSS changes “just seem a bit pointless”. “Is this the way to beat obesity, by moving things round in a shop?” he asked. “It won’t make any difference to how much we sell or buy of anything – it just gives us a headache.”

The Source Roadshow, a spinoff of the wellknown West Country trade show, will be bringing 150 exhibitors to Bristol’s Ashton Gate Stadium, on Thursday 16th June. bristol. thesourcetradeshow. co.uk Soil Association Certification has appointed Dominic Robinson to replace Martin Sawyer as its new CEO. Robinson joins from Severn Trent Water where he was Head of Visitor Experience. Fairtrade spice specialist Steenbergs is the latest producer to become certified as a B Corp. This covers both the North Yorkshire business’s Steenbergs and Old Hamlet Wine & Spice brands.

Get your head around the new legislation Recently published Government guidance on the Food (Promotion and Placement) (England) Regulations 2021 runs to 18,500 words. And this includes a disclaimer that the document should be read in conjunction with the regulations themselves and not be taken as an authoritative interpretation. The Association of Convenience Stores (ACS) has published its own, pared-down guidance. This summarises that retailers with more than 50 employees must not offer volume promotions on HFSS products – although this portion of the law has now been deferred by the Government until October 2023.

It adds that businesses meeting the above test and also offering relevant internal floor area of more than 2,000 square feet (185.8 sq m) cannot display HFSS products within certain distances of checkouts and designated queuing areas, end-of-aisle units and store entrances. These regulations will still come into force on 1st October 2022. Available via the ACS website, the briefing also contains diagrams and explanations covering floorspace calculations, which products count as HFSS, exemptions, and many other finer details of the law. acs.org.uk/advice/hfssregulations

June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

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June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

NEWS

World Cheese Awards 2022 relocates to Wales… By Michael Lane

With the war in Ukraine having impacted plans to host the World Cheese Awards in Kyiv, the Guild of Fine Food will now be taking the 2022 event to Wales. Supported by the Welsh Government, the awards will be held at the International Conference Centre Wales near Newport on 2nd November. Guild of Fine Food MD John Farrand thanked the Welsh Government for “their quick thinking” and assisting

the organisers find a Plan B for the one-day event, which plays host to thousands of cheeses and expert judges from all over the globe. “As you will almost certainly be aware, we should be in Kyiv in November this year,” he said. “We will be working hard to ensure that our support for the cheesemakers of Ukraine is continued this year and beyond. It is a postponement, rather than a cancellation.” Cheesemakers will be

The awards will take place on 2nd November and the ICC Wales

Kent food producers crowned The Taste of Kent Awards 2022 winners were announced in May with a host of the county’s small producers collecting gongs. Provenance Potatoes was named Kent Food or Drink Business of the Year while Detling Community Store took home the title of Food Retailer of the Year. New Food & Drink Product of the Year went to Curd & Cure for its Rescue Range Broccoli & Stilton Soup. Among the other winners were honey producer Bray’s Bees, cheesemaker Kingcott Dairy and Copper Rivet Distillery. Full results at tasteofkentawards.co.uk

able to enter their cheeses from 25th July, with entry closing on 20th September. Invites will go out to judges during the summer. Cheeses will be staged in the judging area on 1st November and judges will also arrive in Wales on the same day. The main event on 2nd November will see hundreds of judges – including technical experts, buyers, retailers and food writers – work their way through the cheese to identify any worthy of a Super Gold, Gold, Silver or Bronze award. Further rounds of judging then determine the World Champion. The following day, a number of cheese, food and drink tours will be held extolling Welsh food & drink culture. Full results will be published on 4th November.

DOWN ON THE FARM

Rumwell Farm Shop, on the A38 between Taunton and Wellington in Somerset, is celebrating after scooping nine Taste of the West Awards for its own-made products including seven golds. Winning items include its traditional pork sausage, unsmoked back bacon, homemade faggots, runner bean chutney, and jam doughnut. rumwellfarmshop.com

26 years after Bath City Farm’s founders had the vision for a community café on its Whiteway site, a new single-storey, timber-clad building with views over Bath is open to the public (Tues to Fri from 9am to 4.30pm). The inside of the café has space for up to 40 customers while there is more seating outside on two terraces. bathcityfarm.org.uk

… as Ukraine’s cheesemakers forge on in the face of war

In spite of the war raging in the country, Ukraine’s cheese industry has continued to trade, according to one of the Guild of Fine Food’s partners for organising the World Cheese Awards in Kyiv. Oksana Chernova of importer-producer Ardis Group and a leader of the ProCheese Academy, has been in contact with the Guild and recently updated it on how the nation’s producers were faring as the Russian invasion continues. While many production premises, dairy farms and packaging suppliers have been destroyed by missile fire – including Ardis’s own warehouse (pictured) – and distribution networks have been lost, cheesemakers are

finding ways to carry on. “Despite the difficult situation, cheesemakers are actively providing assistance to the defense, migrants, and the Armed Forces in their regions,” said Chernova. “The farmers who faced the problem of selling milk in the first weeks of the war travelled to villages and towns and distributed milk to people in need.” She said that some cheesemakers had switched to fresh cheese production during the war, while others had learned to become cheesemongers and were selling direct to the public. “We hope that the World Cheese Awards will still come to Ukraine,” added Chernova. “All cheesemakers in Ukraine have been waiting for this event. Because no matter the outcome, not many people around the world know what kind of cheeses are in Ukraine. ardis.ua/en/

The latest from farm shops across the country A brand-new farm shop has opened in Northamptonshire at Moorgate Farm, home of the KellyBronze turkey. The shop will be stocking locally grown vegetables, free range chickens, freshly baked sausage rolls, smoked fish and turkey pies and be open Fridays and Saturdays. moorgatefarm.co.uk Craggies Farm Shop in West Yorkshire has been working hard on expanding and refitting their current café and farm shop. The café will be twice its current size.

Both will be re-opened by 14th May. craggiesfarmshop.uk A state-of-the-art, self-service farm shop has opened in Gloucestershire near Tetbury. Bennetts Farm Shop has become the first in the area to offer this new experience for customers to shop at their convenience anytime daily from 8am until 7pm. Home reared beef burgers, kebabs, BBQ packs, cakes, milk and coffee are all available. facebook.com/ bennettsfarmshoptetbury

In association with

Fabulous Farm Shops fabulousfarmshops.co.uk

Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

SHOP TALK IF I’D KNOWN THEN WHAT I KNOW NOW... TONY BAGSHAW, owner, Deli Bloc, Kettering, Northamptonshire Kafé Bloc had been going for eight years when the pandemic hit and overnight we were told to close our doors. We got all our existing suppliers on board and bought large sacks of flour, rice and pasta, fruit, veg, meat and even toilet roll. The following day we reopened as a grocery store. When we were able to reopen the café, we knew it would be impossible to run both the store and café in the space we had. Fortunately, a retail unit two doors along became available and we signed a lease on that. Deli Bloc was born. My vision was to create an old-fashioned shop crammed with goodies, from local cheeses and homemade pies to chutneys and jams – very different to the staples we were selling during lockdown. The reality is that the deli has become more of an extension to the café than I expected. A lot of people come in for the hot sausage rolls and sandwiches we make every morning. Last year, the building next door to the deli came up for sale, so we bought that and moved the café into it, knocking down walls between the two buildings to amalgamate the two sides of the business. This enabled us to put in a bigger kitchen and accommodate more seating. We operate as one entity. The deli is almost a stockholding area for the café. If I need a truckle of cheese for the kitchen, I just grab one from the deli. This means we rarely run out of anything. One of the tricks is to design the café menu for commonality of ingredients. We try to ensure that each ingredient we buy has multiple uses and is used in several dishes. The café generates two-thirds of our turnover, and the deli a third, which corresponds to the space they occupy. The two parts of the business produce a similar net profit. The higher labour costs of running the café are balanced with higher margins, while on the deli side, margins are lower but so is the cost of labour. Staffing has been a challenge in recent years. We have a higher staff turnover than we used to, due to people leaving the industry. I started off in the kitchen doing all the cooking and now, 10 years later, I am back there again. We have eight or nine employees on the books at any one time, which equates to four or five full-timers. Considering the current climate, the business is performing well. The café continues to grow month on month and the deli is ticking over nicely, although many people have reverted to their old shopping habits. My plan for the future is to try and take a holiday. Before I go though, I want to make sure everything is running as it should be. Interview Lynda Searby Photography Richard Faulks

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CONFESSIONS OF A DELI OWNER ANONYMOUS TALES FROM BEHIND THE COUNTER I THINK I have a case of Sensitive Shelves. You might say, “there is a cream for that.” Jokes aside, the reality is that not all shelves are created equal. Those at, or just below, eye level are the best. Those down by your feet are under-performers, even though baskets on the floor can work. Shelves up high are bad but anything is better than hiding product in the stock room. Tables for customers to browse from are good, but they don’t hold many lines. Counter tops shift stuff fast, but only lower value items. The display unit near the door is not as good as you’d think because most customers have not had the chance to pick up a basket. I’m not sure I agree with the concept of “Hot Spots” but I could walk you round my shop whispering “warmer, warmer, colder, colder” as you pass every shelf inch. Several years ago, I did a complete rearrange. Moved the deli counter and everything. The plan was to get my café customers to behave more like my deli customers, and vice versa. I know this is true for lots of deli-cafés, but the customers just seem to split at the door. We can attract two different types of people, or the same people in two different moods.

MODEL RETAILING You know, I’d love to come with you to that trade show, but I’m just too busy here. And the staff really need me.

Shelves at, or just below, eye level are the best. Those down by your feet are underperformers. In my head, I visualised my new lay-out encouraging diners to pick up something on the way out or people stopping for a coffee while they’re in buying cheese. And I was mostly correct. It has increased my average spend. However, the one error I made was to think that shelving in the café space would get people looking around while they slurp their cappuccino’s and say, “Hey, I fancy that jar of strawberry & Champagne jam”. It didn’t work. Any benefit was offset by dust, sell-by dates and

damage. Did I mention children’s sticky fingers? Now, we mostly keep it up high around café customers. That is, as mentioned, better than the stock room (surely anywhere is better?). When it comes to analysing the performance of my shelves, I like the shorthand of the 80:20 rule. In effect, 20% of the shelving does 80% of the work. This is not something I am pleased with. It’s more of a failure (this is a confessional, after all) but I have learnt to cherish that 20%. Those are my special places. I would call them my work horses more than hot spots. All are near the counter, and all are between tummy and shoulder. Clear line of sight. These facias need restocking like the sweet bowl at a kids’ party. But you can make an error with even the best shelves. I had a lovely team member who liked to arrange stock like it was a jenga puzzle. Pull out the wrong cheese straw and it all came tumbling down. Customers get nervous about that, so make sure it’s not a challenge to pick something out. So, love them, polish them and only lavish your best stock on them. After all, they’re the most sensitive of all.

SOLVING EVERYDAY SHOPKEEPING DILEMMAS. IN MINIATURE. Or, do they?

Wow, sounds like you found loads of new suppliers at that show… Oh yeah, no, we were really swamped. Ish.

FFD says: It’s very easy to feel trapped in your shop. Often, owners convince themselves that, unless they’re on the floor, it will all go horribly wrong. But taking time away from the day-to-day running of the shop can actually be a really good thing. Trade shows and events are a good source of new products and ideas, and they’re often held mid-week. So, if you trust your staff to carry out tasks when you’re there, then trust them to keep the shop going while you go out and broaden your horizons. With kind permission of Geobra Brandstätter Stiftung & Co. KG, Germany. PLAYMOBIL is a registered trademark of Geobra Brandstätter Stiftung & Co. KG, for which also the displayed PLAYMOBIL toy figures are protected.

Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

SHOP TALK

CODE OF PRACTICE

WHAT’S TRENDING NICK BAINES KEEPS YOU UP TO DATE WITH THE NEWEST DISHES, FLAVOURS AND INNOVATIONS IN FOOD & DRINK

Technical and regulatory advice from the Guild of Fine Food’s Assured Code of Practice for Deli Retailing This month we take a look at... induction of new employees

New employees will need to understand their legal responsibilities from the outset. This can be achieved by completing an induction and training process, including the following food safety information: • Cleaning Schedules and the COSHH manual – Location and purpose of COSHH (Control of Substances Hazardous to Health) assessments. – Personal Protective Equipment if needed and how to wear it and what to do if damaged. – Contact times and dilution rates.

New employees will need to understand their legal responsibilities from the outset

Producer’s View COTSWOLD FLOUR MD BERTIE MATTHEWS OUTLINES WHY OUR DAILY BREAD SHOULD BE MORE SUSTAINABLE Next time you pick up a highly processed supermarket loaf, check the label. “Preservative (Calcium Propionate), Emulsifiers (Mono- and Di-Acetyl Tartaric Acid), Flour Treatment Agent (Ascorbic Acid).” It’s about as environmentally friendly as a landfill site. Is it even bread? The farmer who grew the cut-price wheat for that loaf required large amounts of fertiliser and chemicals to increase yield. The bread would not be so cheap if those yields weren’t miraculously high. But high yields come at the cost of degraded soil. Commodity farming – both at home and abroad – means spraying fields full of chemicals and driving huge ploughs into the land every year. All this breaks up the microorganisms which support plant life in the soil. Why, then, are we surprised when harvests eventually begin to fail? If the top six inches of fertile soil continues to degrade, then how are we supposed to grow food, mill grain, bake bread? Buying British and local can help in reducing 12

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• Housekeeping – Ensuring exits and walkways are kept clear at all times. Correct disposal of refuse. • Temperature Control – The correct temperatures required for food safety, in line with the products produced. • Personal Hygiene – How to and what to wear regarding protective clothing, jewellery etc. • Fitness To Work – The requirment to report illnesses, the 48-hours rule, and return to work policy. • Allergens – What the allergens are, how to prevent cross-contamination and information to be given to customers. • First Aid – Name of person to ask for first aid and where the first aid kits are located. • Deliveries and Stock Rotation – How deliveries should be accepted and how foods are stock rotated. • Cross-contamination – How to handle food safely to reduce contamination and keeping work areas clean. The guide is available in PDF format and is free for Guild members. For non-members, it costs £250+VAT. To request a copy of the Code of Practice, or for further information, email support@gff.co.uk

food miles. It also creates a “circular economy” which helps us manage food production systems better, creating a stronger connection between consumers and producers. It supports local jobs and skills which in turn helps increase demand for sustainable, home-grown products. The kind of bread produced in such a basic system is just flour, water, salt and maybe some introduced yeast. That’s it. Nutritionally – grain for grain, gram for gram – good locally milled, regeneratively farmed flour can end up being much better value, too Moreover, real bread made from real flour makes economic sense. You might be surprised to know that a loaf made from sustainably produced flour from one of England’s smaller mills costs less than the ingredients of its cutprice supermarket cousin. For the average 800g loaf: eight pence cheaper. It’s a no-brainer. Politicians should be supporting more thoughtful, localised forms of food production, backed by grants, a legally recognised environmental rating system and adding farming to school curriculums. Businesses should adopt sustainability as part of their strategy and producers should be incentivised with premiums for transitioning to a sustainable regenerative model. Some are already doing it. The costs of not doing these things are far more frightening. fwpmatthews.co.uk

1 Swanky soft serve Synonymous with ice cream vans, the Mr. Whippy is being taken in a far more serious direction. There’s a slew of new swanky soft serve vendors now in operation such as Milt Train and Soft & Swirly. At Soft Serve Society you’ll find flavours like charcoal coconut and matcha alongside your traditional-yet-elevated vanilla. Meanwhile, the south coast coffee spot Ounce has been bringing affogatos to its take-out coffee lineup, knocking out soft serve infused with fresh pulled espresso. 2 Down from London The ability to work from home has prompted something of an exodus from the Capital in recent years, but some of London’s most talented chefs are heading out, too. Somerset seems to be of particular interest, with Margot Henderson (pictured) taking over the Three Horseshoes in Batcombe. She isn’t far from Soho House’s Somerset outpost, and sits a stones-throw from popular London ex-pat stronghold Bruton where you’ll find The Chapel and Roth Bar & Grill. Florence Knight, from Sessions Art Club is also moving to take over Boath House in Nairn, in Scotland. 3 Carbonic maceration coffee Natural process coffees offer up those intense fruity flavours that sometimes verge on the funky and fermented. Now, that’s all being taken up a notch with the rise of the carbonic maceration process – using carbon dioxide to separate the coffee from the air instead of water. Carbonic maceration slows the breakdown of sugars, allowing the process to be extended by several days. The result is a complex, boozy flavoured cup. You’ll find great examples of this style from the likes of Caravan and Horsham Coffee Roaster.

June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

WORLD CHEESE AWARDS 2022 The Guild of Fine Food is proud to announce that the 2022 edition of the World Cheese Awards will take place at the International Conference Centre Wales, supported by the Welsh Government. KEY DATES 2022 Open for entry:

25 July

Closed for entry:

20 September

Cheeses staged:

1 November

Judges arrive:

1 November

Judging:

2 November

Cheese, food & drink tours:

3 November

Results available:

4 November

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June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

CHEESEWIRE

news and views from the cheese counter

Sharpham leads by example as more cheesemakers seek ethical approval By Patrick McGuigan

Cheese can be a force for good, according to Sharpham Dairy, which is one of a number of artisan cheesemakers joining ethical accreditation schemes. Devon-based Sharpham, owned by Greg and Nicky Parsons, has successfully achieved B Corporation status – a rigorous accreditation that recognises companies with outstanding social and environmental standards. Sharpham is the first cheesemaker in the UK to gain the accreditation, after a year-long process involving external audits in five areas: Governance, Workers, Community, Environment and Customers. “When we took over the

dairy in 2019, we set out to use cheese as a force for good – cultivating a business that our team, suppliers, customers and retailers are proud to be associated with,” said Greg Parsons. “B Corp is the best way to validate we’re doing things the right way.” Environmental and animal welfare campaigners have become increasingly vocal in their criticism of the dairy industry, which Parsons said was part of the motivation for applying for B Corp. “Dairy gets labelled as dairy, but there is a huge difference between a US farm with 10,000 cows in big sheds compared to small British farms with 100 cows out at pasture. The media takes a broad-brush approach, so we

Nicky and Greg Parsons of Sharpham Dairy have achieved B Corp status

need to communicate how we are different and be completely transparent.” Other cheese companies are coming to similar conclusions, with makers signing up to a variety of ethical schemes. The Sustainable Food Trust, founded by Hafod cheddar-maker Patrick Holden, is currently working on a Global Farm Metric, which will score the environmental performances of farms globally. Meanwhile, cheesemakers including The Ethical Dairy have signed up to the Pasture for Life scheme, which accredits producers working with animals fed on 100% pasture. Irish government body Bord Bia has also developed a sustainable dairy farming accreditation called Origin Green, used by Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers in Tipperary. Neal’s Yard Dairy launched a series of articles on sustainability and cheese through its website and social media in January. “We wanted to give a platform to our producers to talk about how they farm and make cheese,” said digital communications manager Lydia West.

NEWS IN BRIEF Tunworth maker Hampshire Cheese Company plans to expand capacity by building a new creamery next door to Newlyns Farm Shop near Basingstoke. The facility will feature viewing windows so the public can see production, before they head next door to Newlyns’ specialist cheese room. A new book chronicling some of Britain’s best artisan cheesemakers has been published by Quadrille. A Portrait of British Cheese by Angus D Birditt features profiles and photography of 30 cheeses and makers. Wholesaler and online retailer The Welsh Cheese Company has opened a shop at its warehouse in Cardiff. The 400 sq ft space stocks around 70 Welsh cheeses and owner Tom Pinder plans to host tasting events there in the future.

Cambridge-based Rennet & Rind won the inaugural Affineur of the Year competition with a truckle of Quickes cheddar nicknamed Priscilla, wedges of which are now being given away to customers. Head of cheese Perry James Wakeman (pictured) matured the cheese as part of the contest, co-organised by the Academy of Cheese, which saw 10 truckles of Quickes cheddar from the same batch aged for a year by different cheesemongers and makers. All 10 were judged at a live final in London with Priscilla winning both the public and judges’ vote.

THREE WAYS WITH...

Comté

France’s most popular PDO cheese, Comté is made with raw cows’ milk in the Franche-Comté region. The hardcooked cheese has a range of flavours and textures, depending on its age and whether it is made in the summer or winter, but sweet dairy, hazelnut, fruit and roasted flavours are all common.

Caramelised Pineapple Sambal At a recent cheese matching event held in London, chef Laura Pope developed a range of accompaniments to go with different ages of Comté, including cherry jam with a 10-month cheese and buttery, herby roasted new potatoes to go with an 18-month cheese. The star of the night, however, was a caramelised pineapple sambal – a sweet and spicy pineapple sauce that matched the intensity of a rich, savoury 24-month Comté. Vin Jaune The Jura has its own unique grape and wine styles, which are a reliable match for Comté. Light-bodied fruity reds made with the local Trousseau and Poulsard grapes are worth exploring, but it is Vin Jaune that is rightly held up as the ultimate Comté pairing. Made with native Savagnin grapes in a similar way to sherry, the wine is aged for more than six years in oak barrels under a layer of yeast, which creates nutty notes in the wine. They marry up beautifully with the similar flavours of an aged Comté. Chard Legendary chef Raymond Blanc was born in Franche-Comté and is not short of a recipe or two for the region’s famous cheese. One of his favourites is a Comté and chard pastry tart. Made with shortcrust pastry, filled with a mix of Swiss chard, eggs, cream and lots of grated cheese, it has soufflé-like texture baking, while the flavour is intensely earthy and umami. Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

CHEESEWIRE

news and views from the cheese counter

Fourth delay to EU import controls leaves British producers frustrated The Government’s decision to once again delay import controls on cheese and other fresh foods from the EU has drawn stinging criticism from farmers and cheesemakers. The controls would have seen cheese from the EU subject to a raft of new controls, including health certificates and physical checks at UK borders from September. However, the Government has now delayed their introduction until the end of 2023 – the fourth time it has moved the deadline. It said the requirements could have led to increased food prices when the public was struggling with rising inflation. British cheeses going to the EU have been subject to the same controls since Brexit, denting UK exports and leading some to argue that Continental producers have an advantage. “The lack of a level playing field for UK producers is so frustrating and unfair,” said Simon Spurrell, founder of The

CHEESE IN PROFILE with Buffalo Blue What’s The Story? First created in 2001, Buffalo Blue is made by Shepherds Purse on their farm in Thirsk, Yorkshire. The company was set up by Judy Bell in 1987

Adana Eisagholian on Unsplash

By Patrick McGuigan

European cheeses like Camembert will continue to be imported without the cost-heavy checks that plague UK producers going in the other direction

Cheshire Cheese Co, who has seen exports badly hit. “Our costs of production continually increase, which we have to pass on to the consumers. Ultimately the stubbornness of this government to face the reality that Brexit has failed is pushing producers into a deep recession with no means to compete with any part of the world.” NFU president Minette when she discovered a passion for cheesemaking and is now led by her daughters, Katie and Caroline. Judy set out with the mission to create dairy alternatives for cows’ milk allergy sufferers. Starting out with just ewes’ milk cheese, Shepherds Purse has grown organically to include cheeses made from cow’s and, in the case of this cheese, buffalo milk. As specialists in blue cheeses, they wanted to lend those same skills to a different kind of milk and in doing so, created the truly exquisite Buffalo Blue. Milk Pasteurised Water Buffalo Milk How It’s Made Small batches of this cheese are made every two weeks, when the high-

June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

BEHIND THE COUNTER TIPS OF THE TRADE

Batters slammed the Government for taking “an unacceptable approach to critical checks for agri-food imports”. “This is a question of fairness,” she added. The Government said it was reviewing how to implement new digital controls, which would be announced in the autumn.

Gemma Williams, Bottle Chop, Headingly, Leeds Deli, café, beer & wine shop rolled into one, Bottle Chop was opened last year by Gemma Williams and husband Elis with a focus on cheese and drinks matching. Beer has been centre stage recently after the shop hosted an event with local brewer North Brewing Co. “It’s given us ideas for matching, which the staff recommend in the shop, but we’ve also put on the menu,” said Williams. “Customers like us to give suggestions. They’re looking to be guided.” Some of the best matches included Piñata – a mango & guava pale ale – paired with Gorgonzola Dolce on an orange cracker, finished with fresh orange zest. Another was a triple-fruit gueuze with Monte Enebro goats’ cheese, topped with fresh peach, mint, raspberry and fresh mint. These combos now feature as small plates in the café, and more events are planned. bottlechop.co.uk

Variations None

quality milk is received on the farm from Bob Palmer’s herd of Italian Water Buffalo in ShipstonOn-Stour, Warwickshire. Vegetarian rennet is added to the milk, along with Penicillium roqueforti and the curd is cut into one-inch cubes. Neither scalded nor pressed, the cheeses are left to age for 8-10 weeks. Appearance and Texture Beneath the natural, dark

blue-grey rind, the smooth paste is snow-white with veining and pockets of evenly distributed blue. The creaminess of buffalo milk helps to deliver its rich, clotted-cream texture, but is balanced out with strong, umami blue notes and a light, clean finish.

Cheesemonger Tips It’s a fantastic cows’ milk alternative and blue cheese variety for any counter. Promote alongside the Buffalo Mozzarella from Italy, and soon customers will be waxing lyrical over the Buffalo Blue from Yorkshire. Suggest a tart jam, such as cloudberry, as an accompaniment. Chef’s Recommendations This robust cheese sits well on a cheese & charcuterie board and pairs deliciously with Port or barrel-aged whisky.

There are a number of ways you can study Level 1 & 2 Academy of Cheese courses: online as self-study eLearning, interactive virtual classes or traditional classes at a venue. Visit academyofcheese.org for more information.

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CHEESEWIRE

news and views from the cheese counter

95% of our cheese is sold between here and Ipswich

Treats from the east Cheesemakers are a rare breed in Norfolk, but Mrs Temple’s has been at it for more than two decades Interview by Patrick McGuigan

MRS TEMPLE’S CHEESE celebrates its twentieth anniversary this year. Or at least that’s what a double page feature in the Eastern Daily Press in March reported. But when FFD spoke to owner Catherine Temple a few weeks later for this article she admits that wasn’t entirely accurate. The business was actually founded 21 years ago. “It’s a bit embarrassing, but when the local paper rang up to say they wanted to do an article on our twenty years, I thought I’d better not argue with them,” she confesses. Mrs Temple’s started in June 2001 when Temple and her husband Stephen returned from Africa to help on the family farm in North Norfolk. The couple had been working in Malawi (he as a research engineer; she as a pharmacist) but Copys Green Farm in Wighton was “in a mess”, says Temple. “The milk price was less than it cost to produce. I looked at what we could build on and we had a dairy herd in a tourist area. People locally were making ice cream, yoghurts and bottled milk, but not cheese, and it was the beginning of things like food miles, farmers’ markets and ‘local’ food.” Temple came across a Specialist Cheesemakers Association handbook and, on a whim, called the number on the back. She was promptly invited to a conference in Shrewsbury the next day. “I met so many people there, from places like Bath Soft Cheese and Errington’s in Scotland,” she says. “In the queue for the ladies, I met [cheesemaking teacher]

Kathy Biss and the owners of [Cumbria cheesemaker] Thornby Moor. By the time I’d got to the end of the line, I’d persuaded them to take me on as an apprentice.” After several work experience stints and courses, Temple started making fresh cheese and mozzarella to sell at the local farmers’ market, and the business grew from there. Today, it is best known for Binham Blue. It produces 34 tonnes of the soft blue annually but it also makes Camembert-style Copys Cloud, Walsingham cheddar and Wells Alpine. Not that you’re likely to see them outside East Anglia. “95% of our cheese is sold between here and Ipswich,” she says. “We’ve never been able to make enough.” When the Temples took over the farm, there was a herd of prize-winning Holsteins, but this was replaced with Brown Swiss cows because of their richer milk and stronger constitutions. The couple has also pioneered sustainable farming techniques, from planting drought-tolerant, nitrogen-fixing alfalfa in the pastures to growing broad beans to feed the cows, instead of bought-in soya. They also installed an anaerobic digester in 2008, which turns cow muck and whey into electricity, although Temple admits it’s a temperamental piece of kit that has pushed Stephen’s engineering skills to the limit. “We never go on holiday because the AD is always broken. It’s as stroppy as anything.” Despite the challenges, the business’s self-sufficiency has proved to be a blessing, partially insulating it from soaring costs. “We’re in a much better position than a lot of other farmers,” she says. “So many are at their wit’s end. There won’t be many small family farms left at this rate. It’s the cheese that has kept us going all this time.”

CROSS

SECTION

Wells Alpine

1 Named after nearby Wells-next-the-Sea,

this semi-hard, pasteurised cows’ milk cheese was inspired by cheeses the Temples discovered on a European cycling holiday in the Alps. Made in 5kg rounds and aged for 6-9 months, the cheese has a sweet nutty flavour and pliable texture.

Much of the fruity, nutty flavour comes from the use of certain starter cultures, which include Helveticus – a bacterium often found in Alpine cheese production. Catherine Temple says the milk from the Brown Swiss cows is also well suited to this style of cheese, given their mountain origins.

The milk is coagulated with vegetarian rennet and the curd is cut and scalded at 42°C, before being salted and packed into moulds which are pressed for two days. The rind is painted with a thin breathable polymer coating.

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Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

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CUT&DRIED

making more of British & Continental charcuterie

The Charcuterie Board hands out awards and Silver Star accreditations at gala event By Michael Lane

After some Covid-enforced delays The Charcuterie Board got back up and running last month by staging an event to announce the results of its 2021 Summer of Charcuterie review, as well as the first ever awards of its new Silver Stars index. Brighton-based operation Curing Rebels collected an award for the best performing products in the Snacking category, with its Goan Beer Sticks getting a particular mention. Herefordshire’s Hay Charcuterie won the Salami category, as its Herefordshire Cider Chorizo, Absinthe & Black Garlic Salami and Firecracker Salami all made the cut on the judges’ Summer of Charcuterie selection board. In the Whole Muscle class, Duchy Charcuterie from Cornwall was named the winner. Its Speck and Truffle

Salami were both on the board. Many of these products were presented to attendees to sample during the gala event held at the Old Brompton Wine & Cheese bar in Kensington, west London, on 11th May. Additional awards for Top Reviewed Individual Product also went to Marc Dennis from Duchy Charcuterie and Most Top Rated Products overall went to Hay Charcuterie. Later in the evening, the world’s first Silver Star awards were announced by John Gower, director of The Charcuterie Board. He said: “This scheme recognises excellence and dedication at every level of a makers’ operation from sourcing and quality of ingredients to manufacture and presentation as well as company ethos.” Already laden with trophies, Rod Lewis of Hay Charcuterie was the first of the inductees to the Silver Star scheme and

he was soon joined by Tempus Foods. Co-founders Dhruv Baker and Thomas Whitaker were on hand from the Surreybased charcutier, whose products include King Peter Ham, Achari Spiced Salami and Chestnut Smoked Coppa. Gower and The Charcuterie Board hope the scheme will become the ultimate benchmark of quality assurance in British Charcuterie. The assessment of other makers is ongoing and each year the index will look to add more stars to the deserving list of producers that make the grade. Gower added that stars could also be lost by producers if their high standards dropped at their next assessment. Representatives from event sponsors Angel Refrigeration, Bizerba UK and the British Pig Association were all in attendance to see certificates and trophies handed out. thecharcuterieboard.org

Capreolus hails Waitrose listing as a major step for British makers David Richards co-founder of producer Capreolus has described the company’s listing with Waitrose as a “very important little toe in the water” for British charcuterie. The West Dorset firm announced last month that it would be supplying three of its lines – Dorset Coppa, Dorset Chorizo and Dorset Air-Dried Beef – across 56 of the highend retailer’s stores. The deal will see Capreolus supply Waitrose deli counters with 80g branded packs of pre-sliced product, via The Compleat Food Group, but Richards was keen to stress that it would not affect trading with his independent retail customers or the quality of his output. He added that he saw the listing as a positive move to raise the profile of British charcuterie in the UK. “This is only three of our lines,” he told FFD, “but it is a very important little toe in the water.” Richards added: “We are so proud to be partnering with Waitrose. It’s the ﬁrst time a major supermarket has stocked branded British charcuterie. The quality ofour British free-range meat (compared to the Continent) is second to none.” “That, and the fact that we only use the “very

ﬁnest spices” which we grind fresh for each batch, makes a huge difference to the way our charcuterie tastes. “For us there will never be a compromise. We are fully committed to expansion and growth to meet the growing demand for our artisan charcuterie but we will always respect everything about the process starting with the raw materials, through to the methods and techniques we use in our creation.” Meanwhile, Richards said that Capreolus was in the process of building a new unit to increase capacity at its premises, with completion slated for the second quarter of 2023. He is also set to relaunch a line in the spreadable salami range. Formerly known as Soft Brexit, a herby spreadable ambient salami – which he likens to a pâté – will soon be available as Rampisham Velvet. While exporting to the Continent was frustrating, given the Government’s constant delays and revisions to protocol, he said that Capreolus would soon be exporting to the Caribbean and Dubai. capreolusfinefoods.co.uk

Above: Rod Lewis collects his Silver Star from John Gower. Below (L-R): Marc Dennis (Duchy Charcuterie), Rod Lewis (Hay Charcuterie) pose with their trophies.

Lishman’s adds guanciale and pancetta to range West Yorkshire butcher and charcutier Lishman’s of Ilkley has launched two products created from its high welfare outdoor-bred pigs. Its new Guanciale – most commonly known as a key ingredient in a Carbonara sauce – is billed as “beautifully rich, buttery and very delicately balanced”, while Smoked Pancetta has already become a “hero product” from many of the butcher’s customers. Although owner David Lishman uses traditional curing techniques throughout, his range of charcuterie and cured meats have a distinct Yorkshire twist. Lishman’s, which has a newly revamped shop in the West Yorkshire village of Ilkley, is a serial award-winner, with Champion Charcuterie Producer 2019, Butcher’s Shop of the Year 2017 and numerous Great Taste awards to its name. Alongside its core range of bacon, salamis, frankfurters and whole muscle meats, it also creates ‘limited release’ salamis every year. The full range is available to trade buyers and consumers nationwide. lishmansbutchers.co.uk Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Guild of Fine Food

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FINE FOOD SHOW NORTH 2022

The North’s biggest annual fine food & drink show will again be focused on the very best local, regional and speciality products

More than 25% of exhibitors are brand new to the show

Monday 27th & Tuesday 28th June | 9:30am-5pm both days

AFTER A STINT IN MARCH and a Covid-enforced detour to October, Fine Food Show North is back in a June timeslot – as it was for many years. It’s certainly a nicer time of year to visit our host town of Harrogate but the Guild feels that it’s also the best time for visiting buyers. This opportunity to sample the latest products and speak face-to-face with suppliers comes just before the summer gets truly busy for retailers, hospitality managers and chefs. And it also happens to coincide with many businesses’ order plans for December. Whether you’re a veteran attendee or a new visitor, there will be plenty of inspiration for your shelves or menus – with more than 130 exhibitors showcasing their latest launches at the Yorkshire Event Centre. More than a quarter of these companies are brand new to the show, while 60% have at least one Great Taste award-winning product. Turn the page to discover some of the other sessions we’ll be hosting at the show, including the famous Feed the Dragon sessions and guided tours with broadcaster Nigel Barden. Also, please don’t forget to visit the Guild on stand C24 and learn more about our relaunched cheese training, our Deli Code of Practice and membership benefits. We look forward to seeing you. Sally Coley, Show director, Guild of Fine Food

Use the postcode HG2 8QZ to find us…

@guildoffinefood #finefoodnorth #ISpyGreatTaste

Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

FINE FOOD SHOW NORTH 2022 WHAT’S ON AT THE SHOW? Monday 27th June

Forage the Show | 11:00-12:00 Nigel Barden The Jolly Tasty Join Nigel Barden in his quest for the best as he leads the first of his exclusive ‘foraging tours’ of this year’s show. Aimed at chefs and foodservice professionals, Nigel will be highlighting the newest ingredients and stand-out brands that will keep your customers coming back for more. Book now at bit.ly/Forage-the-ShowMonday Introducing The Booths Accelerator | 12:00-13:00 The Jolly Tasty Nigel Murray, CEO of Booths, will be introducing a new mentorship initiative from the retailer that will support and develop a small food or drink producer. This session will offer more detail on The Booths Accelerator, including how producers can apply and what the retailer is looking for in a future food & drink star.

SESSIONS TO LOOK OUT FOR BOOTHS HITS THE ACCELERATOR ON 175TH BIRTHDAY As part of the chain’s 175th birthday celebrations, Booths will be unveiling a new mentorship and support programme to help a start-up food & drinks business flourish. “The Booths Accelerator” will be introduced to the trade by CEO Nigel Murray in a special session at the show. Channelling the spirit of the first E.H. Booth (an orphan who founded the retailer by borrowing £80 of stock) The Booths Accelerator will offer a tailored programme of support to help grow, develop and sustain a food & drinks business of the future. Booths will offer mentorship, product and retail expertise, market access and targeted funding to help an emerging food or drinks brand to achieve the next stage of its growth plans. Join Booths for this informal introduction to the scheme and details of how to apply. For more information in advance, email accelerator@booths.co.uk

MEET JAFFY’S AND TRY THE SUPREME CHAMPION KIPPERS With the results of Great Taste 2022 just around the corner, Nigel Barden catches up with last year’s Supreme Champion – J. Lawrie & Sons (Jaffy’s Smokehouse). Their Mallaig Kippers impressed the judges at every stage of the blindtasting process to earn Jaffy’s the biggest prize in food & drink in 2021. Carefully and artfully produced at the last remaining traditional kipper yard in Mallaig, using a 30ft brick kiln powered by the wind, these herrings are cured in sea salt and slowly smoked over whisky cask oak shavings. Juicy and tender, silky and sweet, Jaffy’s Mallaig Kippers deliver the perfect balance of wood, smoke and fish. Hear from the family behind the award-winning fish and taste for yourselves on Monday afternoon (15:00-15:30).

Feed the Dragon | 14:00-15:00 | Session 1 The Jolly Tasty In the first of our popular Dragons’ Den style sessions, watch and learn as producers pitch their products to our esteemed panel of top food buyers, including Catherine Matteson of Fenwicks, Matt Bruno of Booths, Adrian Boswell of Selfridges, Freddie Taylor of Drewtons and Heather Parry of Fodder Farm Shop. 15:00-15:30 | Meet the Great Taste Supreme Champion 2021 J. Lawrie & Sons The Jolly Tasty An interview-style session with awardwinning Jaffy’s Smokehouse, lead by broadcaster Nigel Barden. He’ll uncover exactly what it means to be crowned Great Taste Supreme Champion, the secret to 78 years of smoking seafood in Scotland, and how you can get your hands on their sensational Oak Smoked Mallaig Kippers to impress your customers. Expect mouthwatering samples and opportunity for audience Q&A. 28

June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

FEED THE DRAGON Gain insights into how big-name retailers approach product selection and pricing, as eight brave exhibitors step up to the plate and pitch to our panel of leading food buyers. Will the producers have what it takes to pursue their dreams of being listed by our Dragons? Find out, and sample their innovative food & drink offerings, at The Jolly Tasty.

Experts in Delicious, Loose frozen food

Committed to farm shops and ﬁne food independent retailers We’re at Fine Food Show North, come & see us at stand number A30

frozen for freshness diverse range with with no waste minimal packaging

memorable & striking FREEZER BRANDING

Full merchandising solution

Consumer Advertising Campaigns

Innovation & Range reviews

A unique proposition your shoppers will love Get in touch and be set up in less than 6 weeks! e: enquiries@ﬁeld-fare.com t: 01732 864 344 62

June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

6 D d an t od h St a Fo ort ne N Fi ow Sh

THE BEST

COFFEE

YOU’LL HAVE ALL DAY. (P.S. IT’S ON US)

Traditional charcuterie Talk to us with a Yorkshire on stand D24 vibe, from the multi award-winning butchers

FIND US AT

D2 G7

The Source Roadshow Bristol - 16th June Fine Food North Harrogate - 27-28th June

C O F F01364644440 E E voyagercoffee.co.uk

June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

Lishman’s are proud to always support local farmers and heritage breeds

Cured meats, hams, frankfurters & charcuterie delivered nationwide www.lishmansbutchers.co.uk @butcher_dlish 23-27 Leeds Road, Ilkley LS29 8DP

FINE FOOD SHOW NORTH 2022 SESSIONS TO LOOK OUT FOR FORAGE THE SHOW There’s no better way to start your day at the show than with an exclusive guided tour lead by none other than Nigel Barden. He’s taken the time to uncover the very best Fine Food Show North has to offer this year, and he’s desperate to share his secrets with a select group of visitors. To join him, simply book your spot now by visiting bit.ly/Forage-the-Show-Tuesday

WHAT’S ON AT THE SHOW? Tuesday 28th June Forage the Show | 10:30-11:30 Nigel Barden The Jolly Tasty Chefs visiting the show can’t afford to miss Nigel’s pick of the very best ingredients to be found at Fine Food Show North. Highlighting innovative new lines, standout brands and the most exciting awardwinners on offer. Enjoy exclusive tales and tastings with the makers themselves.

Interested in learning how to sell more cheese? Following the show in Harrogate, the Guild will be running its Retail Cheese Training Course at The West Park Hotel, presented by experts in the field, Patrick McGuigan and Emma Young. This one-day, practical course is designed specifically for independent retailers and their teams who are involved in sourcing, buying and selling cheese. Suitable for all levels of experience, the course will help new staff get to grips with their roles and inspire more experienced staff to engage with customers and refresh their skills and product knowledge. Book your spot at bit.ly/Harrogate-cheese-training

CHEESE WIRE Is your cheese offering in need of some inspiration this summer? A visit to Harrogate is a must this June. In this lively, interactive tasting session, FFD’s resident expert Patrick McGuigan will showcase a selection of brand-new cheeses, created by creative cheesemakers during various lockdowns. These include the creamy, Gorgonzola-like blue Pevensey Blue from East Sussex, the cider-washed Yarlington, and Gert Lush – a Camembert-style bloomy white-rinded organic cheese from the makers of Renegade Monk.

Feed the Dragon | 12:00-13:00 | Session 2 The Jolly Tasty Hear from high-profile buyers, retailers and retail experts, as they unpick the product pitches of our daring exhibitors. Tuesday’s line-up of Dragons includes Jane Karlicek of Westmorland Farm Shop, Chris Lidgitt of Crimple Food Hall, Sangita Tryner of Delilah Fine Foods, Laura Eastwood from Fortnum & Mason and Stefano Cuomo of Macknade.

Cheese Wire | 14:00-15:00 Patrick McGuigan The Jolly Tasty Time to give your counter a fresh feel for summer? Join Patrick McGuigan for all the insider tips and expert advice around the brand-new cheeses being showcased at Fine Food Show North. Take this opportunity to try before you buy, and impress your customers with top tasting notes from a cheese guru. Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

FINE FOOD SHOW NORTH 2022

WHAT’S ON

SHOW FOR 2022 32

June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

Aagrah Foods www.aagrahfoods.com Acorn Dairy www.acorndairy.co.uk Atlas Spirits www.atlasgins.com

BeeBee & Leaf www.beebeeandleaf.com Beau-T-Full Tea Company www.beau-t-full.com Bizerba UK Limited www.bizerba.co.uk Bo Tree Farm www.botreefarm.co.uk Brindle Distillery www.brindledistillery.co.uk Bumble Wrap www.bumblewrap.co.uk Burtree Puddings www.burtreepuddings.co.uk

G16 D7 D6

E5 D23 E3 E16 E12 A14 D9

Butlers Farmhouse Cheeses www.butlerscheeses.co.uk By Julia www.byjulia.uk

G23 F17

Cakes from the Lakes www.cakesfromthelakes.com Calder’s Kitchen www.calderskitchen.co.uk Caviar & Cocktails www.caviarandcocktails.com Chimilove www.chimi.love Clive’s Wines www.cliveswines.co.uk Cocoa Cabana www.cocoa-cabana.co.uk Coffee Care www.coffeecare.co.uk

G22 C7 C21 B12 F3 F29 H20

CONTINUES ON P35

Adventurous coffee, hand-roasted in the West Yorkshire Pennines Wholesale coffee and equipment supply, with curated POS support Award-winning, beautifully presented retail coffees Barista training school and café consultancy We’re a Certified B-Corp, and we give 2% of our turnover to community projects

of Golden Fork North

England

Holme Mills . Marsden . West Yorkshire . HD7 6L INFO@DARKWOODSCOFFEE.CO.UK

DARKWOODSCOFFEE.CO.UK

Award-Winning London Dry Gins Pipe and Glass gin -– Vine Tomato and Garden Lovage Evil Gin - SL

Our gins bring you the great taste of Yorkshire Bespoke Gin Services Here at The Hooting Owl Distillery we can develop a bespoke gin recipe for clients. Your gin will be unique to you and white label gin is available with your own name and branding, if required. We will work closely with you to develop a specific gin recipe that you will be able to distribute to suit your requirements, in your shop, restaurant or hotel, for example, with the recipe and method of production remaining the property of The Hooting Owl Distillery. We offer this service for wholesale and retail clients and, subject to costs and minimum batch quantities, individual clients. Please get in touch at info@hootingowldistillery.co.uk with your requirements for further information about our bespoke, white label gins.

01904 501911 | sales@hootingowldistillery.co.uk | www.hootingowldistillery.co.uk

Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

ERT XP L

HAN

DC AF R

June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

PRODUCE OF ENGLAND

PREMIUM ENGLISH FRUIT WINE

www.cliveswines.co.uk

FINE FOOD SHOW NORTH 2022 New at the show… ...The Oxton Liqueur Company Following the Oxton Liqueur Company’s Raspberry Gin Liqueur being voted the ‘Best English Gin’, it has now been voted the ‘World’s Best Gin’ at the World Liqueur Awards 2022. The liqueur is vailable in six different shapes of bottle, including Christmas Baubles (with ribbons), Hip Flask (pictured) and the producer’s iconic Square Stacking bottles.This award follows many others including its Christmas Vodka that was voted the ‘World’s Best Vodka’ at the World Liqueur Awards in 2020. oxtonliqueurs.co.uk

Contact Grills www.contactgrills.co.uk Cook Trading www.cookfood.net Craggs and Co www.craggsandco.co.uk Cryer & Stott Cheesemongers www.cryerandstott.co.uk

Dark Woods Coffee www.darkwoodscoffee.co.uk Drinks Kitchen www.drinkskitchen.online

Farm Retail Association www.farmretail.co.uk Field-Fare www.field-fare.com Freedom Chocolate www.freedomchocolate.co.uk

Ginger Health & Wellbeing www.gingerhealthfoods.com GreatDrams www.greatdrams.com

A10 D16 E28 A1

A20 D27

A8 A30 F26

B7 B8

Guild of Fine Food www.gff.co.uk Guppy’s Chocolates www.guppyschocolates.co.uk

C24 F13

Haigh’s www.haighsbakery.co.uk Hawkshead Relish Company www.hawksheadrelish.com Herdwick Distillery www.lakelandartisan.co.uk House of Gelato www.houseofgelato.co.uk

Icertech www.icertech.co.uk

K5 D15 B15 F5

G27

Jack Berry www.jack-berry.com J. Lawrie & Sons www.jaffys.co.uk Just Delicious www.just-delicious.co.uk

C9 E24 G13 CONTINUES ON P37

Arabian Specialities

Winner of 71 GTA’s in 16 years Visit us on stand E16 Fine Food Show North

www.terra-rossa.com

Explore it all on Stand C15 +44 (0)20 8661 9695

Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

s Fo tand See od G us Sh 27 on ow at N Fin or e th

FINE FOOD SHOW NORTH 2022 Just Desserts Yorkshire www.just-desserts.co.uk

Kin Vodka www.kinvodka.co.uk Kinsale Mead Co www.kinsalemeadco.ie Kwambora www.hotsauceuk.co.uk

Labelling Solutions www.labelling-solutions.com Lakeland Artisan www.lakelandartisan.co.uk Le Gruyère AOP www.gruyere.com Lishman’s of Ilkley www.lishmansbutchers.co.uk Little Doone Foods www.littledoone.co.uk Lo-Dough www.lodough.co

Marketing Lancashire www.marketinglancashire.com

C16

D25 E2 K4

Masons of Yorkshire www.masonsyorkshiregin.com Michael Lee, Purveyor of Fine Cheeses www.finecheesesltd.co.uk Mr Filbert’s Fine Foods www.mrfilberts.com

Nc’nean Distillery Limited www.ncnean.com

P C1 B13 D8 D24 A3 F8

E23

Patteson’s Glass www.jarsandbottles.co.uk Purèety Gourmet Flavours www.pureety.com

R2 Distillers www.divinegin.com Raisthorpe Manor Fine Foods www.raisthorpemanor.com Rawlings & Son www.rawlingsbristol.co.uk Redhill Farm Free Range Pork www.redhillfarm.com

H21 H4 G11

G15

F20 C28

G10 B16 A29 E20 CONTINUES ON P39

New for Summer 2022!

Available Now! www.hawksheadrelish.com Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

s 2 tu E e si d at Vi tan rog S r at Ha at

Discover the Taste of Mead Refreshingly Different

KINSALE ME AD CO. Hazy Summer Mead

www.kinsalemead.co.uk | info@kinsalemeadco.ie

The UK’s best selling ambient bone broth. Award Winning Flavour 100% Natural Ingredients Gluten & Dairy Free Responsibly Sourced Sustainably Packed

Come and say hello! Fine Food Show North Stand A4 38

June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

www.takestockfoods.com @takestockfoods takestockfoods

FINE FOOD SHOW NORTH 2022 RH Packaging www.rhpackaging.com Rounton Coffee www.rountoncoffee.co.uk

SA Sauces www.sasauces.co.uk Shepherds Purse Cheeses www.shepherdspurse.co.uk Shire Foods East Anglia www.shirefoodsofnorfolk.co.uk Silent Pool Distillers www.silentpooldistiller.com Spice Kitchen www.spicekitchenuk.com Staal Smokehouse www.staalsmokehouse.co.uk Summerhouse Drinks www.summerhousedrinks.com

Take Stock www.takestockfoods.com Taste of Yorkshire www.tasteofyorkshire.uk Tayport Distillery www.tayportdistillery.com Tempus Foods www.tempusfoods.com

A18 F1

E8 A21 J10 D20 D1 B11 D3

A4 B1 C6 C8

Tenuta Marmorelle www.tenutamarmorelle.com Terra Rossa Jordan www.terra-rossa.com The Artisan Champions www.artisanchampions.co.uk The Canny Candy Gadgies www.cannycandygadgies.com The Chilli Jam Man www.thechillijamman.com The Cress Company www.thecressco.co.uk The EPOS Bureau www.theeposbureau.com The Farmer’s Son Black Pudding & Haggis www.thefarmersson.com The Fine Cheese Co. www.finecheese.co.uk The Montgomery Group www.freshrm.co.uk The Oxton Liqueur Company www.oxtonliqueurs.co.uk The Serious Sweet Company www.serioussweets.co.uk The Yummy Yank www.theyummyyank.co.uk Two Brooks www.twobrooks.co.uk Two Farmers www.twofarmers.co.uk

D28 C15 C12 F4 F16 J2 G21 E4 D2

New at the show… ...LoCho LoCho is “your friendly low carb baker”, specialising in nutritious, super-fresh bread. The producer believes that reducing carbs doesn’t have to mean reducing taste or texture. Its low carb seeded loaf has up to 85% lower carbs than standard seeded loaves and doesn’t feature any artificial ingredients – just natural, vegetarian, 100% GMO-free good stuff. Sold in units of 3 loaves or 3 x4-pack rolls (RRP£14.99 with free shipping). haighsbakery.co.uk

J3 B2 D5 F2 E6 D21

CONTINUES ON P41

Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

Stand B12 Fine Food Show North

CRISPS THAT

Stand D21 Fine Food Show North

PACKAGING

June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

Outstanding Gift Boxes for Christmas Gluten Free Delicious & Versatile

FINE FOOD SHOW NORTH 2022

New at the show… ...Hawkshead Relish The Cumbria-based stalwart will be showcasing its Sriracha Ketchup (295g) and Sticky Chilli Marinade (325g) at the show. The ketchup will add a kick to dishes like chill con carne or home-made chips, while the marinade is perfect for wings or drumsticks. RRP £3.55 (for both sauces). Trade price £13.90 for case of 6. hawksheadrelish.com

Voyager Coffee www.voyagercoffee.co.uk

Whitby Distillery www.whitbydistillery.com Wild & Fruitful Preserves www.wildandfruitful.co.uk Wild Fox Distillery www.wildfoxdistillery.co.uk Wildcraft Bakery www.wildcraftbakery.com William Jones Packaging www.wjpackaging.co.uk Winter Tarn Cheese www.wintertarn.co.uk Working for Wildlife www.working4wildlife.org

C20 C2 F21 A2 K1 F9 B3

Yorkshire Bartender www.yorkshirebartender.co.uk Yorkshire Pasta Co www.yorkshirepasta.co.uk

F28 C13

All listings correct at time of going to press

PROUD PRODUCERS OF THE FINEST SMOKED SCOTTISH SEAFOOD SINCE 1944

SINCE 2007 WORLDWIDE GLASS SUPPLIER We are a leading global distributor of glass packaging, providing a range of innovative solutions for the food, drink, and cosmetics industries.

GRIMSBY

GLASS JARS & BOTTLES

See us on stand E24

EVER EXPANDING RANGE WITH STANDARD & BESPOKE SOLUTIONS

CLOSURES TWIST OFF CAPS & CORK STOPPERS Every container deserves the right closure, and our selection of standard caps can offer just that, from cork stoppers to crown caps, twist off, ROPP and GPI. Our in-house design team can help offer a fully customised option for all closures.

ENQUIRE TODAY & JOIN OUR STORY

Our work is never hurried, our flavour never compromised.

With over 200 unique jars and bottles available, our carefully crafted range will help match your product with the right glass container no matter the industry.

+44 (0)1472 340005 www.pattesonsglass.co.uk sales@pattesonsglass.co.uk

Visit us at Fine Food Show North - stand F20

JAFFY’S MALLAIG KIPPERS

JAFFY’S PEAT SMOKED SALMON

JAFFY’S MALLAIG KIPPERS ORDER ONLINE FOR HOME DELIVERY

JAFFY’S OAK SMOKED SALMON

www.jaffys.co.uk Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

RETAILERS : YOU HAVE THE QUESTIONS

Can I Can I display and mature my How can I prove that I store some hard hard cheeses have not exceeded a given cheeses and cured on wooden use-by date when the meats at ambient? shelves? outer packaging has Is it safe to cook and

freeze a previously

frozen raw product?

Can I display olives at

Can I cut cheese

been discarded?

ambient temperature?

and meats When do we clean Do I have to mature

with the same down knives, cheese or ripen cheese under

equipment? wires and our slicer? refrigerated conditions?

OUR CODE HAS THE ANSWERS Assured Code of Practice for

Deli Retailing

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

FIRST EDITION: FEBRUARY 2020

Developed by the Guild of Fine Food and food experts at Cornwall Council, the Deli Retailing Code of Practice is split into three main sections – Food Safety Essentials, Good Hygiene Practices and Trading Standards – the Code is intended as a one-stop reference guide for deli teams, providing the guidance to ensure that both compliance and best practice standards can be achieved in all areas of retail. The Deli Retailing Code of Practice is available in PDF format and can be requested by emailing support@gff.co.uk. The Code is free to Guild of Fine Food members and can be purchased by non-members for £250+VAT.

gff.co.uk | +44 (0)1747 825200

@guildoffinefood

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Aagrah AWARD WINNING FLAVOURS: The whole range of cooking sauces has been awarded either a 1-Star or 2-Star Great Taste Award. Our stand-out flavours are:

Curries – with a difference

Hydrabadi: An Aagrah Foods speciality! This recipe is an Aagrah Restaurants signature dish and has been one of our guests’ favourites for over 30 years. It’s also a best seller in the range and a 2-Star Great Taste winner.

Built on a 45-year restaurant legacy, Aagrah offer a host of delicious Indian cooking sauces. Here, we get to know this Yorkshire-based family-owned company – and its truly unique curries.

A Family Affair: With nine restaurants spread across Yorkshire, Aagrah has grown to become a beloved household name across the county and beyond over the last half century. The story starts in 1977

when Mohammed Sabir opened the first Aagrah in the small Yorkshire town of Shipley. His idea was simple; to recreate the food cooked in the home and in the villages in his native Kashmir. As the family grew, the business grew and Sabir’s brothers, Aslam and Iqbal, helped to take the business from strength to strength. Today, the restaurants are thriving, and Shezad, son of Aslam – is in charge of giving home cooks a taste of Aagrah with its range of stunning cooking sauces. “All of our curries, chutneys and spice blends are based on authentic recipes used in the restaurants – they’re tried and tested by thousands of happy customers every day,” explains Shezad. It’s these unique recipes – think Hydrabadi and Achari, instead of the usual supermarket sauces – plus the freshness of the ingredients that really sets Aagrah apart. “All of the sauces start with a base of sizzled spices, onions and garlic, just like you’d have in a restaurant,” adds Shezad. Global Appeal: The business has grown rapidly

over the last 3 years led by a growing D2C customer base. “People ask us where they can find our products because we have a very loyal customer base. When people try our sauces they comment how different they taste to the “usual supermarket sauces”. TARKA: EVERY INDIAN CHEF’S SECRET ® This is the method used by Indian chefs to fry spices until they sizzle and pop, releasing those wonderful flavours you usually only experience in a top-end, Indian restaurant. Aagrah’s unique Tarka bases use this technique for maximum punch, freshness and flavour

Lahsen®: A brand new addition to the Tarka range, the Aagrah Lahsen® base takes it’s name from the ethnic word for garlic. This dish originates from Peshawar and has a spicy heat and unique taste supplemented with mini pickled garlic flavour bombs. A 2-Star GT winner and a Grocer New Product Award Winner 2021.

Kashmiri Korma: The Aagrah Kashmiri Korma is a more traditional take on the “British” Korma. Originating in Kashmir and developed especially by Aagrah, the Kashmiri Korma is delicately spiced and full of flavour.

For stocking enquiries, email sales@aagrah.com Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

ALL PATES 130G, 28-DAY SHELF LIFE FROM RECEIPT RRP £4.99

NEW RECIPE SALT COD PATE

Also known as Brandade de Morue, our salt cod pate combines locally sourced ingredients to re-create this French classic

Hipstar Soda

Going Back to Our Roots Home Grown Flavours Championing the ‘Grow-Your-Own’ and ‘Buy Local’ movements, Allotment Drinks create sodas with home-grown flavours inspired by the British vegetable plot, garden and hedgerow. Refreshingly different, their low-sugar drinks (only 35kcal per can) are bursting with natural botanical extracts and flavours: Barbarilla Soda (Rhubarb & Anise) and Hipstar Soda (Rosehip, Starflower & Meadowsweet) To be enjoyed chilled on their own as a welcome change for the non-drinker or mixed with alcohol. Garnish flamboyantly with seasonal fruits, herbs and edible flowers. Vegan friendly and gluten free.

allotmentdrinks.co.uk

NEW PRODUCT SMOKED MACKEREL PATE

The secret to this tasty and nutritious pate is the mackerel, which has been caught by local boats, before processing and smoking to perfection.

123 GREAT TASTE AWARDS #WINNER

NEW PRODUCT SMOKED SALMON PATE

We use superior grade salmon, farmed in the Shetland islands, to create a luxury pate. It is the perfect centre piece for a savoury snack, starter on canape.

Delivered direct from Thule Ventus Ltd Order now from info@thuleventus.co.uk 15% discount on all orders placed before 15th August Minimum order 24 pots of any combination of pates thuleventus.co.uk 44

June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

Great repeat trade and good margins, your customers will come back again and again for Mr Vikki’s. Unique secret recipes with authentic Indian techniques, made by an award-winning chef. Please contact us today for a product list of super tasty Mild to Wild Chilli Chilli condiments. Catering sizes also available.

CONTACT ADAM TODAY. WWW.MRVIKKIS.CO.UK OR 01768 210102

CATEGORY FOCUS

How’s the fare up there?

north jamsof & sweet england preserves York-based Allotment Drinks says it has “veered off the well-trodden soft drinks path” to invent low-sugar sodas with home-grown flavours inspired by the British vegetable plot, garden and hedgerow. Barbarilla Soda (rhubarb & anise) and Hipstar Soda (rosehip, starflower & meadowsweet) are said to be bursting with natural botanical extracts and flavours. RRP £2-3.50 for 330ml. allotmentdrinks.co.uk

Davenport’s has overhauled its entire range, curating some new collections, including ‘The Dessert Trolley’ and ‘A Shuffle of Truffles’, collaborating with likeminded producers to launch lines such as Droitwich Salt Truffles and Hepple Gin Truffles, and rolling out a 100g bar range in flavours such as Ginger & Lavender and Strawberry Waffle Cone. davenportschocolates. com

With FFD taking a trip to Harrogate for Fine Food Show North, it seemed only right to round up the latest product launches from counties in the North of England.

Inspired by Japan’s popular alcoholic sour tipple

Compiled by Lynda Searby

Handcrafted in Derbyshire, So Good Kombucha’s ‘living’ drinks have scored listings in around 50 independent retailers after trading for only one year. As well as brewing unfiltered kombucha using organic and natural ingredients, the BIPOC women-owned social venture has pledged to support and employ refugees. It recently developed a Blueberry, Blackcurrant & Lemon drink to raise money for Ukrainian refugees. sogoodkombucha.com

Peak District roastery SeaMoor Coffee has collaborated with Thornbridge Brewery to develop its latest barrel aged coffee. The beans are aged for 16 days in a barrel that has been used to age the brewery’s Necessary Evil imperial stout. Aromas of citrus and oak from the wood combine with chocolate, malts and caramel from the stout, to produce a richly layered coffee. RRP £11 for 250g. seamoorcoffee.co.uk

Retailers on the lookout for an alternative to the usual soft drink options should check out Manchester label Chu Lo. Inspired by Japan’s popular alcoholic sour tipple, Chuhai, Chu Lo fuses the same freshly squeezed fruit juice and delicious flavours into a lower sugar, alcohol-free, super sour soda with a fizzy kick. Trade price £27.60 for a case of 24 cans (£1.15 per unit) via LWC. chu-lo.com

WL Distillery’s new Wilson’s Gin Club Watermelon & Liquorice is crafted with refreshing flavours of watermelon and mint balanced with lime and finished with a twist of liquorice. Its is available from the County Durham distillery with an RRP of £37.99. wldistillery.com

Northumbrian Pantry’s latest introductions are three preserves made by hand in small batches in the village of Simonburn using locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Fiery Red Onion Relish, Rhubarb & Strawberry Jam and Beetroot & Orange Chutney all have an RRP of £4.50. northumbrianpantry.com

Wirral spice purveyor Seasoned Pioneers is targeting the independent trade with its new collection of spice tins. There are 13 blends in the range, from Middle Eastern classics like Shawarma and Ras-el-Hanout to Zanzibar, Korma, Sri Lankan and Pasanda curry powders. RRP £4.50. seasonedpioneers.com Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

north of england

>> Mr Fitzpatrick’s Vintage Cordials has created a gift pack range that showcases the breadth of its 28-strong cordial collection. Each pack contains 5 x 100ml miniatures, united through a common theme, whether that is ‘Roots & Spices’, ‘Fruits & Flowers’ or ‘No Added Sugar’. RRP is upwards of £16.99. Trade price is £8.50 per unit via Cotswold Fayre and The Cress Co. mrfitzpatricks.com

Ananda Foods has launched a marshmallow gift box, providing a new presentation option for its gelatine- and allergen-free marshmallows. Made by hand in a vegan, nut-free kitchen in Derbyshire, the marshmallows are flavoured with natural mango, strawberry and peach, coloured with carrots and turmeric extract, and set with agar. The box has an RRP of £13. anandafoods.co.uk

True North Brew Co has infused liquorice Nipits from Simpkins with its original Sheffield Dry Gin recipe to create its take on an Old Tom - a traditional gin usually made with sugar or liquorice. The collaboration marks the Sheffield confectionery producer’s 100th birthday. RRP £39 for 70cl; £3.50 for 5cl. Trade price £25.50 for 70cl. truenorthbrewco.uk

Table is a newcomer to the bean-to-bar chocolate scene, making bars from scratch in micro-batches in a kitchen in the basement of Ropes and Twines in Liverpool. The inaugural range takes in four 70g bars – Tanzania Dark 72%, Nicaragua White 43%, Haiti Milk 61% and Madagascar Dark 84%– all packaged in compostable cellulose pouches. RRP £6.50. tablechocolate.com

Last month saw the launch of a new range of sustainably sourced frozen seafood from Grimsbybased Chapman’s Seafoods. The Chapman’s Choice range, which comes with the promise of a 33% margin for retailers, includes lines such as Breaded Whitebait (RRP £4 for 454g), Crevettes (RRP £18.50 for 900g) and Mussels in Half Shell (RRP £11.70 for 800g). chapmans-stockists. co.uk

Beau-T-Full’s new organic herbal tea range is right on trend as consumers look for products that support both physical and mental wellbeing. The York-based team has chosen herbal adaptogens and active ingredients as the basis for five wellnessfocused infusions - Wide Awake, Deep Sleep, Tummy & Mind, Immunity and Relaxing. RRP £3.50 for a box of 15 bags. beau-t-full.com

Bringing welcome innovation to a rather stale category is LoCho - a new low carb fresh bread brand that will be distributed to the trade via Haighs Bakery in Guisley. LoCho launches this month with a range of fresh low carb bread loaves and rolls made from natural, vegetarian ingredients. locho.life

Thornleys’ sauce and recipe mixes are sporting newly designed packaging, with new colours and more emphasis on their natural and glutenfree status. All lines are made in small batches by hand in Lancashire. RRP £1.95-2.30; trade price £1.36-1.54. thornleysnaturalfoods. co.uk

Despite being just 24 and 25 when they launched No.1 Fairham Gin last year, Liam Stemson and Ellis McKeown know a fair bit about gin distilling. The pair started developing their Signature Edition in 2020 using a three litre still in an outbuilding at their home on Fairham Avenue - the inspiration for their name. The business has since moved into a small unit in Lancashire, which is home to a 60 litre copper pot still. Its two expressions, Signature Edition and Ochre Edition, are described as a contemporary take on a traditional dry gin, with both being vapour infused, non-chill filtered and standing at 45% ABV. The distillery works with the Ribble Rivers Trust to plant trees in Lancashire for every 70cl bottle purchase. RRP £35; trade price: £22.50. no1fairhamgin.com

Responding to increasing requests from younger customers for vegan bars, Newcastle upon Tyne producer North Chocolates has launched an oat milk range. “The majority of my dark bars are dairy free but a lot of people who have decided to go vegan are younger, simply like the taste of milk chocolate and really miss it,” says owner Bev Stephenson. She says oat milk delivers the mouth taste and creaminess that people look for from milk chocolate. There are three bars in the line-up: Popping Candy, Raspberry & Coconut and Spiced Nut & Seeds. While the Popping Candy and Raspberry bars have universal appeal, the Spiced Nut version is a little more “grown up”, as the cayenne, rosemary, lemon zest and salt gives it a savoury dimension, according to Stephenson. The bars, which have an RRP of £2.60, are already on sale in Fenwick. northchocolates.co.uk 46

June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

Growing interest in home baking has prompted Side Oven to branch out into bread mixes. The East Yorkshire bakery has created three organic mixes, based on its own tried and tested recipes and providing everything that is needed to make a bakery-quality loaf at home. RRP £3. sideoven.com

HICKORY SMOKED CASHEWS The finest quality cashew nuts, traditionally smoked over hickory woodchips in a brick kiln, then roasted and salted.

INGREDIENTS: Cashew Nuts (nuts), Sunflower Oil, Salt, Hickory Wood Smoke.

HICKORY SMOKED CASHEWS The finest quality cashew nuts, traditionally smoked over hickory woodchips in a brick kiln, then roasted and salted.

Our real smoked nuts are produced in small batches by hand with care and attention - we do hope that you enjoy them.

Store in a cool dry place away from strong light.

At the Cheshire Smokehouse, we have been smoking fine foods for over 100 years, using brick-built smoke kilns and the finest hickory chippings.

For allergens see ingredients in bold. Packed in a factory that handles peanuts, other nuts, sesame and gluten.

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION Typical values per 100g Energy KJ/ 2533kj / Kcal 611kcal Fat 50.9g of which saturates 10.1g Carbohydrates 18.9g of which sugars 5.5g Fibre 3.2g Protein 20.6g Salt 1.1g

INGREDIENTS: Cashew Nuts (Nuts), Sunflower Oil, Salt, Hickory Wood Smoke. For allergens see ingredients in bold. Packed in a factory that handles peanuts, other nuts, sesame and gluten. Store in a cool dry place away from strong light.

smoke kilns and the finest hickory chippings. Our real smoked nuts are produced in small batches by hand with care and attention - we do hope that you enjoy them. The Real Smoked Nut Company The Cheshire Smokehouse Ltd Vost Farm : Morley Green : Wilmslow : Cheshire : SK9 5NU www.smokednuts.co.uk

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION Typical values per 100g Energy KJ/ 2533kj / Kcal 611kcal Fat 50.9g of which saturates 10.1g Carbohydrates 18.9g of which sugars 5.5g Fibre 3.2g Protein 20.6g Salt 1.1g

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION Typical values per 100g

INGREDIENTS: Cashew Nuts (nuts), Sunflower Oil, Salt, Hickory Wood Smoke. For allergens see ingredients in bold. Packed in a factory that handles peanuts, other nuts, sesame and gluten. Store in a cool dry place away from strong light.

1kg

Energy KJ/Kcal Fat of which saturates Carbohydrates of which sugars Fibre Protein Salt

2533kj / 611kcal 50.9g 10.1g 18.9g 5.5g 3.2g 20.6g 1.1g

The Real Smoked Nut Company The Cheshire Smokehouse Ltd Vost Farm : Morley Green : Wilmslow : Cheshire : SK9 5NU www.smokednuts.co.uk

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Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

80g

1kg pouch

The Real Smoked Nut Company The Cheshire Smokehouse Ltd Vost Farm, Morley Green, Wilmslow, Cheshire, SK9 5NU www.smokednuts.co.uk

sales@cheshiresmokehouse.co.uk For more information, e-mail: We actually smoke our nuts in our own brick smoke kilns - no flavours added.

HICKORY SMOKED CASHEWS

HICKORY SMOKED CASHEWS HICKORY SMOKED ALMONDS, CASHEWS AND PEANUTS

The finest quality cashew nuts, traditionally smoked over hickory woodchips in a brick kiln, then roasted and salted. The finest quality almonds, cashew nuts and peanuts, traditionally smoked over hickory woodchips in a brick kiln, then roasted and salted.

At the Cheshire Smokehouse, we have been smoking fine foods for over 100 years, using brick-built smoke kilns and the finest hickory chippings. Our real smoked nuts are produced in small batches by hand with care and attention - we do hope that you enjoy them.

INGREDIENTS: Almonds (nuts), Cashew Nuts, Peanuts, Sunflower Oil, Salt, Hickory Wood Smoke.

Hickory smoked cashews HICKORY SMOKED ALMONDS, CASHEWS AND PEANUTS

HICKORY SMOKED ALMONDS, CASHEWS AND PEANUTS The finest quality almonds, cashew nuts and peanuts, traditionally smoked over hickory woodchips in a brick kiln, then roasted and salted.

INGREDIENTS: Almonds (nuts), Cashew Nuts, Peanuts, Sunflower Oil, Salt, Hickory Wood Smoke.

The finest quality almonds, cashew nuts and peanuts, traditionally smoked over hickory woodchips in a brick kiln, then roasted and salted.

For allergens see ingredients in bold. Packed in a factory that handles sesame, gluten and other nuts.

At the Cheshire Smokehouse, we have been smoking fine foods for over 100 years, using brick-built smoke kilns and the finest hickory chippings.

Store in a cool dry place away from strong light.

80g

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION Typical values per 100g

Our real smoked nuts are produced in small batches by hand with care and attention - we do hope that you enjoy them.

For allergens see ingredients in bold. Packed in a factory that handles sesame, gluten and other nuts.

The Real Smoked Nut Company The Cheshire Smokehouse Ltd Vost Farm : Morley Green : Wilmslow : Cheshire : SK9 5NU www.smokednuts.co.uk

Store in a cool dry place away from strong light.

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION Typical values per 100g Energy KJ/ 2531kj / Kcal 611kcal Fat 53.5g of which saturates 8.1g Carbohydrates 10.9g of which sugars 4.5g Fibre 5.6g Protein 22g Salt 1.1g

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION Typical values per 100g

INGREDIENTS: Almonds (nuts), Cashew Nuts, Peanuts, Sunflower Oil, Salt, Hickory Wood Smoke. For allergens see ingredients in bold. Packed in a factory that handles sesame, gluten and other nuts. Store in a cool dry place away from strong light.

1kg

Energy KJ/Kcal Fat of which saturates Carbohydrates of which sugars Fibre Protein Salt

2531kj / 611kcal 53.5g 8.1g 10.9g 4.5g 5.6g 22g 1.1g

The Real Smoked Nut Company The Cheshire Smokehouse Ltd Vost Farm : Morley Green : Wilmslow : Cheshire : SK9 5NU www.smokednuts.co.uk

Energy KJ/ 2531kj / Kcal 611kcal Fat 53.5g of which saturates 8.1g Carbohydrates 10.9g of which sugars 4.5g Fibre 5.6g Protein 22g Salt 1.1g

250g

250g pouch

The Real Smoked Nut Company The Cheshire Smokehouse Ltd Vost Farm, Morley Green, Wilmslow, Cheshire, SK9 5NU www.smokednuts.co.uk

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June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

north of england Durham Coffee is hoping to capture a slice of the tourist economy with a new range that connects with the North East’s culture and history. The Heritage range takes in seven different roast profiles, each available in beans or ground in 100g or 250g kraft bags, with respective RRPs of (£4.204.70 and £8.20-9). durhamcoffee.co.uk

Liverpool’s Spice Kitchen says its World Tin is the perfect gift for anyone who loves to cook. Dressed in a silk sari wrap, the 19cm diameter stainless steel tin contains a selection of “great all-rounders” for adding flavour to BBQs and a variety of dishes. The World Spice and BBQ Rub Tin has an RRP of £35; trade price £21.30. spicekitchenuk.com

Balefire in County Durham uses the power of fermentation to balance taste and heat in the production of its craft beer-based hot sauces. Chillis are aged via fermentation for several weeks, then blended with craft beer and vinegar to create “an impact of flavour and fire”. RRPs range from £5-8 for a 160ml bottle, with a 3540% reduction for trade sales. balefire.uk

This “soil to spirit” vodka from Edwards 1902 is a marriage of Yorkshire produce, distilled from King Edwards potatoes grown in Yorkshire and Lincolnshire, and flavoured with rhubarb from E Oldroyds & Son in the Rhubarb Triangle. The result is a smooth, fruity vodka that can be consumed neat or in cocktails. RRP £40; trade price £26. edwards1902.co.uk

Made by steeping dried hibiscus flowers

Wigan-based iLOVE SNACKS has released a range of 100% recyclable and reusable tins. Smoked Almonds, 70% Belgian Chocolate, Rosemary & Sea Salt Pistachios, Hot Chilli Corn Nuts and Sea Salt & Black Pepper Fava Crisps are all available in the new tins, which contain 35-44g of product and have an RRP of £1.502 (trade price £1-1.34). ilovesnacks.co.uk

Clotton Hall Dairy’s Fresh Luxury Custard and Clotted Cream Rice Pudding are now available in a new smaller (330g) pot. Both products are made in small batches at the on-farm dairy in Cheshire using milk from the Clotton Hall Farm’s own herd of free-range cows. RRP £2.95. clottonhalldairy.co.uk

Lancashire-based Crave has created concentrated, dry versions of its signature marinades, packaged in pouches with an RRP of £2.95. There are three mixes in the line-up - Classic Spicy, No Added Sugar Spicy and Mild - all of which can be used directly as a coating or mixed with yoghurt and vinegar to make a marinade. cravemarinades.com

Altrincham-based soft drink brewer Hip Pop is branching out beyond kombucha while keeping the focus on gut health, with the launch of Apple Cider Vinegar Soda. Initially available in Ginger, Turmeric & Black Pepper flavour, with an additional two flavours Peach and Pink Grapefruit - due to launch this month, the low-sugar soda provides a tablespoon of apple cider vinegar per 330ml can. RRP £2. drinkhippop.com

Following the successful launch of Yan Gin launched last year, Herdwick Distillery has added two new gins to its range. Marmalade Yan Gin is blended with Cumbrian Delights’ St Clements Marmalade for a citrus punch, while Berry Yan Gin is crammed full of cranberries, strawberries, raspberries, redcurrants and blackcurrants. RRP £35 for 70cl; wholesale price £21.00. lakelandartisan.co.uk

Calyx Drinks has created its take on Zobo, a Nigerian drink made by steeping dried hibiscus flowers. The Lancashire beverage producer’s recipe blends white grape with hibiscus flower and four “ferociously fiery” spices. For those who prefer their drinks a little less spicy, Calyx has launched Zobo Lite, which uses “warming” spices such as ginger, cloves and juniper berries. There are six floral brews in the Calyx range, all with an RRP of £1.99 for 250ml. Trade price £0.85. calyxdrinks.co.uk

Stokes Tea & Coffee has launched a new blend inspired by he afternoon teas it serves at its destination cafés in Lincoln. Each 40g carton of Afternoon Tea Blend contains 20 individually wrapped, plasticand bleach-free tea bags. RRP £2.99; trade price £8 for four cartons. stokescoffee.com

Truffle Pig Vegan has rebranded as Trupig Vegan, to reflect its values as a “vegan brand made by vegans”. The Sheffield chocolate company makes small-batch vegan versions of popular chocolate bars, as well as hand-painted bonbons. The bars have a trade price of £1.90. trupigvegan.com

To mark the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee, Hartington Creamery has launched a semi-soft, creamy blue cheese that will become a permanent addition to its line-up. Platinum Blue Cheese is handmade in the Pikehall Farm artisan creamery in the heart of the Peak District using Derbyshire Dales milk. hartingtoncreamery.co.uk

Following on from the success of its 220g vegan black pudding in 2017, The Bury Black Pudding Company is launching a bigger 1.36kg pudding for the foodservice sector. The producer claims its black pudding is the healthiest on the market, with a fat content of just 3%. buryblackpuddings.co.uk Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

THE UK’S LEADING SHOWCASE OF ARTISANAL FOOD & DRINK Speciality & Fine Food Fair is set to return for another sensational edition on 5-6 September 2022 at Olympia London. Discover innovative new products, inspirational ideas and all the latest industry trends and insights from leading experts.

“Really pleased with the atmosphere, audience and organisation. It has been an amazing food focused event for us.” Frederick Kampman | Lowlanders Botanical Beers Co

SCAN HERE to sign up to our newsletter and be the ﬁrst to ﬁnd out when registration goes live.

www.specialityandfinefoodfairs.co.uk 48

June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

FOCUS ON

foodservice

Cheshire farm shop The Lambing Shed was named Café/ Restaurant of the Year at the most recent Farm Retail Awards. Here’s how the operation works.

Serving customers by the shedload By Michael Lane

WHEN MANY FOOD businesses were frantically setting up marquees and building temporary shelters to comply with various Covid lockdown rules in 2020, one Cheshire farm shop was already ahead of the game. Within a year of trading, The Lambing Shed in Knutsford had so many café customers that it bolted on an awning to provide more covered seating. “It was one of the best things we did, because it’s got retractable sides and a retractable roof,” says director Kathryn Mitchell. “During the pandemic, it was amazing for us as we went through all the different tiers, and all the challenges we had to face with indoor and outdoor dining.” This covered area was actually installed at the end of 2016 to keep staffing rotas more predictable in face of the North West’s changeable weather. Although it may not have been incredible pre-pandemic foresight, this move demonstrates the kind of operational nous that won this farm shop eatery the Café/Restaurant of the Year trophy at the Farm Retail Awards earlier this year. As you might expect from the name, The Lambing Shed is based on the plot of a former agricultural building at the Mitchell family’s Moseley Hall Farm. First opened in 2015, the operation has grown to post annual turnover in the region of £1.5m – and some 60% of that is accounted for by its café. The aim of the business is simple: sell good quality, local food and showcase it in the café. All of the lamb and beef on the menu comes from the farm and the chefs buy ingredients from the same regional suppliers that stock the retail side. Organisation is key when you’ve got 80-covers in your indoor space and more than 110 when the patio area comes into play

during the warmer times of the year. The menus for breakfast and lunch are kept to a core of 15-20 staple dishes, including The Lambing Shed’s top-selling burgers, with weekly specials added on top. “That’s where we can be really creative. If the butchery in the shop has cuts of meat that aren’t selling well at certain times of the year, chefs can make something amazing with it for specials.” None of the dishes are outlandish but there is a mix of old-school crowd-pleasers like beef pies and fish & chips alongside more diverse options like BBQ pork bao buns and spiced red lentil dahl. “I’m a bit of a foodie but that’s balanced out by my dad [fellow director Michael Mitchell], who is 75 and says ‘Where’s the shepherd’s pie?” While older customers tend to opt for safer choices, Mitchell says they can be just as receptive. She cites a 90-year-old gentleman who recently discovered sriracha mayo and now shares her own enthusiasm for the condiment. The main menu only changes once a season, with Mitchell not afraid to remove best-sellers from one version to the next, trusting her customer base to try new things. And many customers’ diets have already shifted in the years that the café has been open, especially when it comes to demand for plant-based and gluten-free items. The Lambing Shed kitchen handles this by creating menu items that can be adapted. “It might be a certain salad that has chicken on it but we have a vegetarian or vegan option where you could swap meat for roasted veg.” Mitchell says that menus are likely to be redrafted more frequently as the cost of ingredients continues to fluctuate this year but she is more fazed by another aspect of

the current economic turbulence. “Wage increase makes me more nervous than food costs, because we can react to food costs. Not everything is going to change in price and we can change our menu easily, unlike a chain restaurant. The minimum wage rise and the fact that we have to pay more for good staff, understandably, is worrying because we are very labour intensive here.” While working at the café appeals to chefs (sociable daytime hours, creative license with ingredients), finding front-ofhouse staff is trickier. The Lambing Shed offers full table service, which is demanding, especially when the only people applying for jobs are teenagers looking for their first gig. Needless to say, Mitchell says these employees require months of on-the-job training but it can often pay off, provided you give everyone the benefit of the doubt. “When it’s a first job, you can’t really judge a book by its cover, you have to give them a couple of months. We’ve had people that, on first impressions, you think ‘They’re so shy’ or ‘They’re never going to get this’ and they go on to be supervisors.” The other thing on Mitchell’s mind is whether the café will be able to maintain its target gross profit of 72% for each dish – even with 200 bills per seating on weekends, at an average spend of £29. Below the line costs, like the energy to run an oven for slow-cooked meals, are now something she will have to scrutinize and factor in. That said, if The Lambing Shed sticks to its philosophy, that should guide it through. “We simply don’t cut corners, we’re not just driven by profit,” says Mitchell. “We’ve got things on the menu that don’t have the best margin but they bring people in.” the-lambing-shed.myshopify.com

Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

FOCUS ON

foodservice

EQUIPMENT

FROM THE DELI KITCHEN SIMPLE RECIPES TO BOOST YOUR MARGINS

SALT BEEF BAGEL Salt beef is an excellent sandwich filler. The recipe uses an inexpensive cut of meat too, which is increasingly important. The spice mix in the brine is fairly flexible, so don’t be scared to try your own favourites. Cook: 2-3 hours Prep: 15 minutes plus brining Ingredients For the brine: 1.5 litres water 100g light brown sugar 1tbsp Prague powder 2 bay leaves 1tbsp coriander seeds 1tbsp black mustard seeds 1tbsp yellow mustard seeds 1tbsp juniper berries Pinch chilli flakes or 1 whole dried chilli 1.5kg piece beef brisket, unrolled 2 carrots 2 onions

Method Heat 500ml of the water with the light brown sugar, bay leaves, coriander seeds, black and yellow mustard seeds, juniper berries and chilli. Stir until dissolved then remove from the heat and stir in the Prague powder and remaining water. Place the meat in a ziplock bag and pour over the brining liquid. Seal well, and place in another ziplock bag to double-seal for security. Place in the fridge for 7-10 days, turning daily, to brine. The longer you do this the better, but the meat is full of flavour after 7 days.

Once brined, remove the meat from bag and discard the liquid. Place the beef in a pan of water and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook slowly for 2-3 hours until the meat is tender and pulls apart easily with a fork. When the meat is tender and cooked through, remove from the heat and allow it to cool in the liquid with the lid off. Store the meat in the fridge, or slice and freeze. Serve the sliced beef in bagels with sweet mustard, lettuce, pickles and any other accompaniments.

Michael Lane

To serve: Bagels Mustard Pickles

Adande’s new BORA open-display refrigerated cabinet attains a new level of energy efficiency for open units of this type, with a B energy class rating that is usually only achieved by refrigeration with glass doors. The cabinets – which Adande estimates will save grab & go operators up to £1000 annually – come in black, stainless steel or white finishes. The latest addition to Lincat’s oven line-up features new tri-heat technology for fast cooking without lowering the end product’s quality. Unlike any other high-speed oven, CiBO+, combines Microwave, TurboAir and ContactBase for cooking in seconds. Ventless, compact and plugging into a standard 13amp socket, CiBO+ is designed to be used in non-traditional spaces and can even accommodate a 12” pizza. lincat.co.uk

Recipe by Jules Mercer for Fine Food Digest April 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 3

Sabert has launched a new range of recyclable paper cutlery, made from FSC® certified paper. The manufacturer believes it has created a non-plastic alternative that delivers on rigidity and cutting quality while not detracting from the flavours of food. Made from virgin cellulose, the range includes a 17cm knife, fork and spoon, plus a 13cm spoon. sabert.eu

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SHELF TALK Made for Drink creates snack for Champagne with Laurent-Perrier this playful take on a timeless classic with our good friends at Laurent-Perrier has been incredible.” Featherstone had already partnered with Laurent Perrier in 2019 when he and his team created a Sashimi Togarashi seasoned Lotus Root Crisp to pair for the brand’s Cuvée Rosé. Juliet Elliot, marketing controller at Laurent-Perrier said: “Made for Drink is the perfect partner because they share are values of genuine quality, family & sustainability.” This collaboration will see 5% of every pack sold donated directly to The Exmoor Carbon Project to support its work preserving and restoring ancient woodlands on Exmoor National Park. Chip Shop Scraps & Fries join a line up of products that also includes Chorizo Thins, Chicken Salt Fries, Duck Fritons and a fourstrong range of potato crisps. Last year, Made for Drink launched planetfriendly (plastic-free/home compostable) packaging across its range. madefordrink.com

By Michael Lane

Bar snack specialist Made for Drink has created a chip-shop-inspired companion for Champagne – with the added endorsement of top brand Laurent-Perrier. The producer’s Chip Shop Scraps & Fries combine scraps of batter with thin-cut potato fries and crunchy peas, which are all seasoned with British malt vinegar and sea salt. Available from this month to independent retailers and pubs, the snack comes in 40g bags (RRP £1.75) and is suitable for vegan diets. It will also be stocked by Sainsburys. Made for Drink founder Dan Featherstone said the developing this product had been a longterm ambition. “We’ve long wanted to showcase the timeless ‘whispered truth’ that a bag of fish & chips and a glass of Champagne remains one of the most highly prized food & drink marriages of all time,” he said. The opportunity to launch

WHAT’S NEW Heart of Suffolk Distillery has created an Oak-Aged Gin that is says will appeal to both gin and whisky fans. Made by barrel-resting its flagship Betty’s Gin for six months, the gin is smooth with notes of bourbon. Available in 20cl (RRP £16), 70cl (RRP £41) and 5cl bottles (RRP £6.50). heartofsuffolkdistillery.co.uk Thoughtful Forager has bolstered its line-up of beers and ciders with four new varieties. Aromatic Hoppy Pale Ale (3.9% ABV) and Smooth Tangy APA (5.0% ABV) both come in 440ml cans (RRP £3.79), while Raspberry & Rosehip Cider and Damson & Nettle Cider (both 4.0% ABV) come in 500ml bottles (RRP £3.89). thoughtfulforager.com Sussex-based infusions brand D’Amazonia, has responded to a growing influx of interest from wholesalers by creating a subrange of recyclable cardboard packs. Both the Initially Sleep Tea and Digestive blends are available in the new format. damazonia.co.uk

Paley Photography

Counter points Truffles

Seggiano has launched two organic loose pastas to meet the growing demand for refillable products, while also addressing desire for glutenfree and ancient grains. Joining the Italian specialist’s Unbelievably Gluten Free range, Cavatappi (pictured) is a hollow, spiral-shaped tube pasta shape made with rice and corn. Meanwhile, Casarecce is a traditional short pasta, ideal for dishes where sauce needs a vehicle. This variety is made with indigenous Sicilian ancient grains and pure spring water from Mount Etna. RRP is £0.66 per 100g. seggiano.com

Food writer and former deli owner Glynn Christian offers up some category-specific conversation starters to sharpen your sales technique.

• Bottled and canned truffles have lost most of their special savour. • Freezing preserves truffles much better than other processes. • Don’t cook with fresh truffles, but add as a garnish or to finish sauces. • There is more than one variety of black truffle. Many are widely cultivated but costs are still high. • Summer Truffles (tuber aestivum) have only subtle flavour, reduced more by processing and thus have flavourings added, so read the label.

Black truffles are ripest after Christmas in the Northern Hemisphere.

• Black truffles are ripest after Christmas in the Northern Hemisphere. • There is more than one variety of black truffle. • Italian truffle varieties span a greater season than French.

This is an extract from Glynn Christian’s book Taste! How to Choose the Best Deli Ingredients, published by Grub Street

Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

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SHELF TALK MEET THE PRODUCER Based in Northern Ireland, Albert Oberholzer is originally from Zimbabwe and his African-made hot sauce brand, Dr Trouble, is already going global. Now he’s aiming to widen his range and get more UK listings. What were you doing before you launched the brand? I lived in Zimbabwe and was involved in the Fast-Moving Consumer Goods market in southern Africa – Zimbabwe, Botswana, Zambia & South Africa. Dr Trouble is an African sauce, so why are you based in Northern Ireland? We moved to Northern Ireland to give our children the opportunities that the United Kingdom and the First World provides in terms of education, arts & cultures and sport. We have been travelling regularly to Belfast since 2001 as we have family here. Holding stock in Belfast allows us to supply the EU market – our distributors in Sweden , Germany , Republic of Ireland and Spain. We hold stock in Liverpool for the UK market as well as our distributors in the USA, Saudi Arabia, Singapore.

are smoked over English oak. This sauce is ideal for barbecue red meat or with a Full English. Then there’s our hotter variety, Lemon Chilli sauce, which is 75% Bird’s Eye and 25% Cayenne. It works well with chicken, fish and vegetables – and is also great in a Bloody Mary. Both varieties come in 125ml and 250ml bottles.

Dr Trouble has over 100 years of family heritage. Our sauce was first made in 1895.

In a crowded hot sauce market, what makes your sauces stand out? Dr Trouble has over 100 years of family heritage. Our sauce was first made in 1895 by Mr Fletcher, a Scotsman who came out to Zimbabwe (then Southern Rhodesia) as a cartographer to work for the South African Trading Company. Dr Trouble uses 100% all-natural ingredients and contains no vinegar, no added preservatives, no colorants, no emulsifiers and no sugar. 90% of our fresh ingredients, including our lemons, are bought from local African villages as we have no commercial farming contract suppliers. This provides additional income to the local community. The sauces are produced by hand in small 30-litre batches and the process includes leaving our sauce in the African sun for 60-90 days in glass flagons which are turned twice daily. We produce less than 29,000 litres each year, but the final annual volume depends on rain fall. We are highly susceptible to drought as all our ingredients are grown naturally in the wild. Tell us more about the two varieties you currently offer? We make two hot sauces with a lemon juice. The mild Double Oak Smoked sauce is 25% Bird’s Eye and 75% Cayenne chillies, which

What’s been the biggest business lesson you’ve learned while running Dr Trouble? We have developed our export market through exclusive distributors in the USA, Germany, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, Sweden, Republic of Ireland and Spain relatively quickly but due to lockdown we have been slow to develop our most local market – the UK. What’s the best thing about running a small company? Being a smaller business gives you the ability and speed to react to your market and take opportunities. And the worst? It takes time to build a brand, engage with customers and consumers. Building confidence in Dr Trouble with a larger marketing budget, we would be able do so much more – and do it faster! What’s next for Dr Trouble? We are developing new lines and taking advantage of the manufacturing opportunities in the UK. We will be launching Dr Trouble “Troublenaise” sauce this year and exploring a range of spices and BBQ rubs drtroublesauce.co.uk

WHAT’S NEW Premium mixer brand London Essence has launched Pink Grapefruit Soda. This new soda has been created to combine with premium tequila, rum or vodka to make Paloma, Mojito or Vodka Soda cocktails. Alternatively, it also works in non-alcoholic cocktails. londonessenceco.com/en In celebration of Her Majesty’s Platinum Jubilee and with picnic season approaching, Tracklements has created a limited edition Right Royal Pickle. This sweetsour condiment features Lincolnshire onions, Muscovado sugar, malt vinegar, tamarind paste, chilli, allspice and lemon juice. Cases of 6x200g kilner jars (RRP £5.80 per jar). tracklements.co.uk/trade Operate is the UK’s first nootropic sports drink and has launched in three flavours (400ml): Peach & Green Tea (to increase energy), Raspberry & Cranberry (to aid recovery) and Lemon & Yuzu (to give a boost). Each low-calorie variety has no added sugar, is preservativefree and suitable for vegans – as well as featuring vitamins, minerals and a range of superfood ingredients. operatedrinks.com Bolle is a unique low & no alcohol sparkling brewed drink. Devised by wine-loving R&D scientist Roberto Vanin, this sparkling wine alternative comes in two varieties without the “over sugary sweetness” that Vanin says has held the category back. Bolle Rosa is a delicate salmon pink colour with notes of berries, blackcurrant, toast and herbs. Its coutenrpart Bolle Ora offers up the same fine bubbles coupled with notes of apple, pear, toast and minerals. Brewed in Birmingham, Bolle is available in both 750ml (£9.99) and 350ml (£3.49) bottles. juicyriver.com Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

DELI OF THE MONTH With two popular sites across south London and a third in the pipeline, Dugard & Daughters has built up a loyal customer base over the last nine years. Despite its founders’ retailing nous, this “butcher and larder” concept was quite the leap of faith in the beginning. Interview by Tom Vaughan

From zero to food heroes NEIL AND ROSIE DUGARD met in a supermarket. Or to be precise, they met while overseeing the fitout of a supermarket (a Budgens, in fact, for whom they both worked at the time). Fast forward nearly 20 years and the two are still on the shop floor, it just happens to be their own shop, Dugard & Daughters. The husband-and-wife team might now boast two sites in premium locations in south London, but their mini-empire was originally born out of adversity. “We’d just VITAL STATISTICS

Location: Herne Hill Arch 286, Milkwood Rd, SE24 0EZ & Earlsfield 507 Garratt Lane, SW18 4SW Retail space: 92sq m (Herne Hill), 111sq m (Earlsfield) Staff no.: 20 (across two sites) Average margin: 35% Average basket spend: £16 58

June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

given birth to our second daughter in 2013 when Rosie was made redundant,” says Neil, who at the time was working for independent retailer Andrew Thornton at his Crouch End Budgens franchise. “Then, out of the blue, I was made redundant six weeks later. We had a newborn, a three year-old, a mortgage, and no job between us. I pretended to look for jobs for a few months but, really, I wanted to do my own thing.” Sitting in a drawer was a business plan Neil had written a few years prior for a

deli-cum-health-food store. “We never did anything with it because it was like stepping off a scary bridge. But I got it out and dusted it off and thought: ‘what if we add meat to this and make it the focus?’” That concept turned out to be the blueprint for Dugard & Daughters – a “butchers and larder” that sells everything from fresh bread, pasta and dried goods through to cheese and charcuterie, with a butchery counter full of rare-breed meat and free-range chicken as the central focus point.

Living in Brixton in south London, the couple swiftly identified nearby Herne Hill as a location, attracted by the affluent residents and a lack of competition outside of a Sainsbury’s Local and lower-end butcher. One of their criteria was that any site must be near the railway station to mop up the commuter traffic. Eventually, the couple fought off sealed bids to land a unit in the railway arches refitted by Network Rail, and in November 2019 launched Dugard & Daughter. Despite no promotional campaign and the Dugards only having “one month’s mortgage payment left in the bank when the doors opened”, the shop quickly took off – a fact all the more impressive considering its proximity to that Sainsbury’s Local (and now also a Tesco Express). While there was pressure, the couple were never unduly worried that they wouldn’t convince customers to ditch the selfcheckout queues for their meat counter. “I’m not scared of supermarkets at all,” says Neil. “We try and do everything differently from supermarkets. Most importantly, we sell stuff by the weight. People can come in and buy one pork chop, or two sausages or three rashers of bacon. That’s really important.” Having worked for supermarkets and big food-retail chains, Neil understood not only how to give Dugard & Daughters a point of difference, but also how to take the supermarkets on at their own game – staying open to 8pm to make sure they could take advantage of after-work rush hour arrivals in Herne Hill and offering plenty of grab-andgo items. “Today, we can do as much business between 5pm and 6.30pm as we do in the whole day between 9.30am and 5pm.” The site launched with five members of staff. Even though Neil has worked in food retail for 17 years and installed meat counters in many of the shops he had managed, he

is no butcher. So, one of the first members he recruited was Gary Singleton, a master butcher and ex-colleague. “We made a decision at the start that we wanted to do the meat properly. We wanted to go top-end - all English free range and rare breeds.” Neil and Gary both knew the Rare Breed Meat Company from their time at Budgens and brought them on as the first meat suppliers. “From there, we’ve just added other suppliers as we’ve found them.” All beef is aged for a minimum of four weeks onsite (up to 10 weeks), with not a single freezer to be found across either Dugard shop. Neil and Rosie make sure they pay an annual visit to every farm that supplies them, including the two chicken farms “that if you were to draw a free-range chicken farm, would look exactly like that”. When it comes to the butcher counter, Neil is guided by what sells. While they order in whole lambs, half pigs, whole chickens and a monthly whole beef carcass, they also bring in 30 ribs of beef a week to sate the huge demand for rib-eye and roasts. And both shops work hard to cater to the barbecue demand (which can drive revenue up by 75% on a summer’s day), preparing kebabs, burgers, deboned chickens, marinated pork and chicken and 13 varieties of sausage. The meat:non-meat split is 55% to 45% in Herne Hill and as much 70% to 30% in their second Earlsfield site, with both shops offering counter service and a grab-and-go meat selection for hurried commuters. Another popular part of the shop is the cheese fridge, with a rotating selection of 50 cheeses. Neil says they made a decision early on not to slice cheese to order. “We pre-slice it all and wrap it up, priced. Having managed supermarkets with delis you often find that people don’t know what 100 grams looks like,

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Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

Fine Food Digest BEST BRANDS 21.pdf

CMY

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16/07/2021

16:15

DELI OF THE MONTH or exactly how much it will cost. We started doing it this way in the Crouch End Budgens franchise and we put the sales up by probably 50%. It’s more prep but we do it in the quiet times and that frees up a staff member from cutting cheese at the busier times.” Beyond that, the shop sells items in every other supermarket category apart from non-food – everything from tinned tomatoes through to oats, olives, smoked salmon and dried herbs. The couple works with over 200 suppliers to source best-in-class items. The only rule is that it has to be from smaller suppliers and not readily available in major supermarkets. If it comes from nearby, all the better. Customers will find beer from Brixton Brewery, cured meats from Balham-based Spanish food specialist Brindisa and daily bread deliveries from Blackbird Bakery. “In each case, we know the suppliers and there is a personal touch to it. I think you’ll only find about five items in the shop that would appear in a medium sized Sainsburys.” Neil also makes sure to listen to customers and make note of requests. “In the space of a month we had 15 people ask

if we had guanciale. So, I called our supplier, Taste of Sicily, and asked if they could get us a kilo of it. We portioned it up like we do the cheese and it sold out in about two days.” The only area that Dugard & Daughters holds back on is fresh produce – a courtesy to the local independent greengrocer in Herne Hill. Rather than a full fruit-andveg selection, it offers a limited amount of organic vegetables. Across the whole shop, margins stay pretty static at 35%. With year-on-year growth steady at 10%, the couple decided to take the plunge and open a second store in 2017, applying the same criteria to a potential new location as had proved successful at Herne Hill: an affluent area in the commuter belt, no existing butcher or deli and a site near a train station. Hence, the couple quickly latched on to Earlsfield, but Neil made sure to do his homework before committing. “I sat in my car one evening counting how many people came out of the train station and what direction they turned. It was something like 1000 people per hour, so I knew it was perfect.”

The second Dugard & Daughters opened in 2017, replicating the same model as its sister site. The only problem is that Neil’s dreams of being able to step away from the day-to-day management has grown more distant with a second site. “It’s like having two kids – it’s more than double as hard as having one.” As a result, Rosie – who left food retail shortly after the couple got together, has come full circle and now manages the day-to-day running of the Herne Hill site while Neil takes care of the Earlsfield one, assisted by a staff of 20 (including four butchers in each shop) across both sites. “She missed food retail, I think. Every day is different. But we can just both be rubbish at taking weekends off, which can obviously have an impact on family life.” Has that put them off ever opening a third site? “Well, actually, there’s one in the pipeline,” says Neil with a glint in his eye. “It’s top secret. It’s been four years since the last, so we were starting to get bored again. It was mostly Rosie’s idea. I think she might be trying to kill me.” dugardanddaughters.com

We made a decision at the start that we wanted to do the meat properly, and go top-end

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June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

GUILD TALK

View from HQ

By John Farrand managing director

EACH DAY WE are subjected to a tirade of made-up phrases and often meaningless soundbites in the name of politics. But when you strip-out the jargon, there is meaning behind the words. “Levelling Up” is the current favourite, so let’s take a “deep-dive” into this term. Firstly, it’s very much on the agenda of Defra’s Food & Drink Sector Council, where the Guild has a small, artisan chair at the table. Of course, I’ve heard of “levelling up”, because it’s liberally bandied about for political gain. But, until recently attending a

news from the guild of fine food Government briefing, I wasn’t wholly sure what it aims to achieve. The sit-up-and-listen moment came as it was revealed that the UK is the 4th most unequal of the OECD countries in terms of GDP per capita. Oops. So, for “levelling up” you should read “equality”. As far as I can see, that is what this important and much-needed directive really is. It may be lost in spin spouted by insincere politicians, but its aim is a worthy one. The twelve Levelling Up missions aim to address inequality across the UK through boosting productivity, creating opportunity, improving public services and restoring a sense of community through empowering local leaders. As you would expect, during the briefing, my rather one-track mind was applying the Levelling Up objectives to the aims (or values) in our SME food & drink sector. My eye was drawn to specific “Focus Areas”: Education, Skills, Health, Well-being and Pride in Place. I’ve been vocal in this column before on the need to educate children (and indeed adults) about the importance of ingredients, nutrition and how to cook. This will, in turn, pique interest in food

The Word on Westminster By Edward Woodall ACS

EVERY YEAR, THE Queen’s Speech provides the Government an opportunity to set out its legislative agenda for the next twelve months, giving a strong indication of where the priorities will lie in key departments that engage with our industry like the Treasury, Communities and Local Government, and Business, Energy, Innovation and Skills. The headline announcement from the speech was about “levelling up” – a term that the Government has been using in various guises in the last year or so, but which now has some concrete

ambitions. On the face of it, the ambitions of the Levelling Up & Regeneration Bill are welcome – stopping properties from being empty for more than a year in town centres for example should be a positive step forward, but we need to ensure that there aren’t unintended consequences that could have the opposite effect in the short term as prospective tenants wait it out for cheaper auction rates. Also in the speech was a commitment to introduce a NonDomestic Business Rates Bill, which is set to include ways to incentivise investment through a delay in the increase in rates for 12 months. This is a big step forward that we have been calling on the Government to

news from the guild of fine food

& drink and lead more of our young to seek a rewarding career in retail and hospitality, especially when we up the training and apprenticeship offer in those sectors. This will lead to better health for all because we will cook and understand how to

Until recently, I wasn’t wholly sure what ‘levelling up’ aims to achieve.

Training is back on the Guild agenda

eat well (in moderation) and reduce wastage. But what does “Pride in Place” mean? According to the initiative’s 298-page tome, it is “people’s satisfaction with their town centre and engagement in local culture and community”. That’s independent retailer and small food producer gold. If “Levelling Up” can instil a sense of worth, pride and commercial viability in our High Streets, wherever they might be in the UK, then I’ll suck up as much contrary rhetoric as our legislators can produce. introduce for many years, and will mean that businesses don’t face two sets of costs for investing. Another key announcement that will be welcome news for thousands of retailers is a commitment to protect access to cash, both in terms of places to deposit cash and places to withdraw it. We’ll be going through the detail of what all of these proposals mean when they’re consulted on in the coming year. But for now, all eyes will be looking to the Prime Minister and the Chancellor to see what interventions they have planned before the Budget in the autumn to ease the pain for both businesses and consumers. Edward Woodall is government relations director at the ACS edward.woodall@acs.org.uk

The Guild has invested in its cheese training over the past six months, putting an emphasis on classroom learning to enable more effective tastings, sharing of knowledge and the ability to swap hints and tips with other retailers. A structured learning road, including the Academy of Cheese Levels One and Two, combined with Retail Cheese, is mapped out for all cheese sellers. See page 24. gff.co.uk/training

World Cheese Awards 2022 World Cheese Awards is taking place in Wales at the newly built International Conference Centre Wales. KEY DATES Open for entry: 25th July Closed for entry: 20th September Judging: 2nd November Cheese, food & drink tours: 3rd November Results available: 4th November gff.co.uk/wca

The Guild of Fine Food represents fine food shops and specialist suppliers. Want to join them? GENERAL ENQUIRIES Guild of Fine Food Guild House, 23b Kingsmead Business Park, Shaftesbury Road, Gillingham, Dorset SP8 5FB UK Tel: +44 (0) 1747 825200 Fax: +44 (0) 1747 824065 info@gff.co.uk gff.co.uk

THE GUILD TEAM: Managing director: John Farrand Special projects director: Tortie Farrand Sales director: Sally Coley Operations & marketing director: Christabel Cairns

Sales manager: Ruth Debnam Sales executive: Becky Haskett

Operations coordinators: Chris Farrand Sepi Rowshanaei

Marketing manager: Sophie Brentnall

Data & systems project manager: Lindsay Farrar

Operations managers: Claire Powell Meredith White

gff.co.uk Finance director: Ashley Warden Financial controller: Stephen Guppy Accounts assistant: Julie Coates Chairman: Bob Farrand Director: Linda Farrand

Vol.23 Issue 5 | June 2022

To your selection of fine foods, may we suggest our selection of even finer gins. Visit us at stand D20

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June 2022 | Vol.23 Issue 5

Justifiably extravagant.

FFD June 2022

Articles inside

NEWS

FOCUS ON

SHOP TALK

DELI OF THE