FFD June 2023

Page 1

All in the mix

Shake up your liquid offering with our roundup of new launches

ALSO INSIDE Co-working and cake with Reunion Deli

What exactly is a ‘functional drink’?

Cheesemaking at Plaw Hatch Farm

June 2023 Volume 24 Issue 5 gff.co.uk
June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5 2 Going the extra mile with good service and minimal miles in transit to get you the best products direct from us! We are a national fine food wholesaler with a difference, being bakers, packers and biscuit makers, either in our label or yours. E sales@sfea.co.uk T 01366 381250 ShireFoodsEA shirefoodsea W www.sfea.co.u Now deliveringinto Lincolnshireusing ourown vehicles

There’s a well-known pseudophilosophical question that goes something like this: if a tree falls in a forest, and there’s no one there to hear it, does it really make a sound?

By all means, send me answers on a postcard but I’ve already worked it out myself. Of course, the sound exists. The real beard-stroking part, for me, comes from that middle bit.

Several times a week I discover something and think: “Why did I not hear about this?”

It seems ludicrous to say this, in a world deafened by the noise of the internet, but people aren’t talking loudly enough about what they’re doing. Yes, you can pick up your phone and you soon have more breakfast photos, humblebrags and terrible takes on football than you can stomach. What I really mean is that many businesses aren’t talking enough about themselves and their achievements. Even, if they are, it’s simply not loud enough.

On the retail side, café

extensions go unannounced beyond the website, laudable zero-waste initiatives languish on page 16 of the local newspaper and very valid opinions flutter away like leaves in the wind. Suppliers are just as bad – achieving eco accreditations in silence, developing new products in the dark and dropping full rebrands with the same impact of that theoretical tree.

Hold on, you cry, isn’t that supposed to be the journalist’s job? Unfortunately, our oftensuperhuman editorial team cannot patrol every single “forest” at once.

There are companies that are good at talking about themselves, and they will tell you that it serves them well. But plenty of operations in our market seem to have a problem finding their voice.

It could be that you’re too busy actually running a business to do any marketing or post content. Maybe talking about yourself doesn’t come naturally. Or perhaps

EDITOR’S CHOICE

Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox, deputy editor

Whitebox

Cocktails

EDITORIAL

editorial@gff.co.uk

Editor: Michael Lane

Deputy editor: Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox

Art director: Mark Windsor

Contributors: Stefanos Aktipis, Nick Baines, Patrick McGuigan, Greg Pitcher, Lynda Searby, Tom Vaughan

ADVERTISING opportunities@gff.co.uk

Sales director: Sally Coley

Sales manager: Ruth Debnam

Sales executive: Becky Haskett

you just can’t find the right forum (on this last one, you should read our publisher’s comment piece on pg 63).

All of these are perfectly valid and understandable reasons for dropping the ball with your communication. So, I’m not saying any of this to admonish business owners reading this – I just want to encourage you to pipe up sometimes. If you’ve done something you’re proud of or you think you have an important development to share, then tell your customers. And your suppliers. And your friendly neighbourhood trade mag.

Not every post will land, not every press release will make the cut, not every phone will get picked up but it’s worth it – even if it gets you one more order or customer.

Do your best to make some noise this month – and direct it at somebody. Silence really isn’t golden.

This issue is a bit of a drinks extravaganza: we’ve got a host of launches (page 41) and a look at “functional” drinks (page 34). It’s great to see so much diversity – but don’t forget the classics.

Whitebox Cocktails has struck again, riding on the success of its Freezer Martini, this time with its vodka-based sibling. It’s strong but smooth with a good measure of olive brine. Importantly, the single-serve format means that my drinking companions and I can explore the many options out therewithout picking up a cocktail shaker. More on page 52

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Vol.24 Issue 5 | June 2023 3 WELCOME
Many businesses aren’t talking enough about themselves and their achievements. Even, if they are, it’s simply not loud enough.
Turn to page 63 for news from the Guild
Tee’s Dirty Martini
4 NEWS
failings, Coronation Trading, farm shop update 9 RETAIL VIEWS
start-up story in Liverpool 13 ADVICE
handling employees, what’s trending 17 CHEESE
latest, Monkland dairy saved, Plaw Hatch Farm 25 SUSTAINABILITY Why keeping it local is better for you business 31 FOODSERVICE
smoked mackerel rillettes to your counter 34 FUNCTIONAL DRINKS What are they? And should you stock them? 41 CATEGORY FOCUS Alcoholic and soft drinks 51 SHELF TALK Cotswold Fayre’s new frozen range, plus lots more launches 58 DELI OF THE MONTH Reunion Deli in Belper, Derbyshire 63 GUILD TALK News and views from FFD’s publisher
Tiny
CONTENTS
Supermarket
Kami’s
Cross-contamination,
Listeria
Add

IN BRIEF

Somerset farm shop Teals has secured a £2.3 million loan to expand the original store by 250 sq m and develop another site. It will add 50 parking spots and a new community and wellbeing space.

Owners Ash and Nick Sinfield hope to launch the new store next year.

Waitrose is scrapping “unnecessary” metal and foil tops on four of its own-label wines. A further ten wines from the same range will follow by 2024,

After saving it from the brink of collapse last month, Planet Organic founder Renée Elliott has committed to keeping the food offering central to the chain’s future. She told The Grocer that this was a “rebirth” for the brand.

Irked consumers call out big multiples’ cost-cutting tactics

Supermarkets came under fire last month amid rising prices and criticised costcutting strategies - with independents urged to focus on quality and service to take advantage.

A series of headlines in the mainstream media pitted the major grocers against their customers over issues including store temperatures, receiptcontrolled exit barriers and delivery minimum-spends.

This all comes against a backdrop of soaring prices at the tills, with food inflation running at almost 20% in the latest official figures.

Analysts told FFD that while supermarkets were motivated to constantly drive down costs, independent retailers should take the opportunity to prove their difference.

Consumer behaviour consultant Philip Graves said it was “unlikely” that

UK Govt should monitor impacts of trade agreements on farmers

The National Farmers’ Union has warned that its members have “very little to gain” from trade deals coming into effect with Australia and New Zealand this month.

The agreements remove most tariffs on imports and make it easier for some UK professionals to head to Australia for work. The Government has claimed they will increase bilateral trade with each nation while reducing prices here.

But NFU president Minette Batters has called for an impact assessment of the agreements on domestic farmers. “It is clear that UK farmers have very little to gain from these two deals,” she said.

Instead, we should focus on deals “where there’s a genuine opportunity for UK agriculture to grow our sales of fantastic products overseas.”

Nick Carlucci, sales director at importer Tenuta Marmorelle, said the agreements could increase traffic at ports and cause delays at borders.

But he added that easier exports to both countries was a positive. “Both markets have really strong food cultures and are getting known for top restaurants and using quality ingredients.”

Meanwhile, ministers have insisted the move represented the advantages of post-Brexit freedoms.

customers would “sacrifice low prices” by abandoning the big chains due to dissatisfaction with the shopping experience.

But he added: “The opportunity for smaller retailers remains their ability to provide knowledge, expertise, quality and perhaps convenience by appealing to shoppers who aren’t solely motivated by price.”

Richard Hyman, partner at retail consultancy TPC, agreed.

“People whose household budgets are

squeezed will not pay a premium for friendliness or empathy,” he said.

“While economic cycles come and go, there is a long-term trend towards greater interest in food and cooking. People are more demanding when it comes to fresh food and the skills in the supermarkets are coming down.”

Andrew Goodacre, chief executive at BIRA, said the large grocers had “a key role to play” in keeping prices as low as possible.

But he added: “Retail is about people and I believe

Sunak’s ‘Farm to Fork’ summit fails to address food inflation

that in this sense the smaller indie retailer can genuinely have an advantage by appearing to know and be interested in their customers.”

Waitrose was among the supermarkets taking flak over recent weeks, as the upmarket grocer said it had implemented a policy of turning down thermostats by up to 2 degrees and cutting lighting for up to two hours per day as part of an energy-saving drive. A spokesperson said the changes had “widely been well received”.

Elsewhere, Sainsbury’s came under fire for requiring self-service customers to scan receipts to activate exit barriers in some stores. The supermarket insisted it offered “dedicated colleague support for customers who need assistance”.

Tesco attracted criticism from some shoppers after increasing its levy on smallscale deliveries to £5 - and raising the basket size required to avoid the fee to £50 - moves it said were needed to ensure it served customers “effectively”.

Last month, Prime Minister Rishi Sunak invited representatives from the agricultural sector and the food supply chain to a ‘Farm to Fork Summit’ at No. 10 Downing Street amid headlines of record high inflation in the 12 months leading up to March.

The Government announced a package of measures ahead of the summit, including an extension of the

seasonal worker scheme, guarantees on trading standards in current and future deals, and plans to cut the red tape holding farmers back from delivering projects on their land to diversify their incomes, such as opening farm shops.

Despite feeling hopeful prior to the event, attendants’ responses were mixed in the immediate aftermath, with one trade representative describing it to The Guardian as an “empty meeting” with no action on price or inflation discussed, short of showing Conservative support for farmers.

Another said: “If you are not doing something

about the cost of living, cost of production, access to labour and affordability of food then you are never going to fix the overall problem.”

In a statement, the NFU, which has been calling for a farming summit to take place for several years, said the meeting was “a massive win for all those who believe in the importance of British food security and food production”.

The group’s president, Minette Batters (pictured left with the PM), said she hoped it was “the start of a really long and meaningful discussion with Government about how we work effectively in partnership to achieve more British food on plates abroad and at home.”

CYBER CRIME 4 NEWS June 2023 | Vol.23 Issue 5
Supermarket chains have reported turning down their lights and switching off music in stores to bring down energy costs Simon Dawson

Wet weather dampens Coronation spending

A wet but celebratory Coronation period led to a range of impacts for fine food retailers.

King Charles III was officially crowned at Westminster Abbey on a damp Saturday but bank holidays on the preceding and following Mondays created a long festive spell.

Ted Newton, marketing coordinator at Farmer Copleys, said the Yorkshire business predicted the appetite to celebrate following the Platinum Jubilee last June.

“We released a special Coronation afternoon tea to mark the occasion as well as other picnic-style items”, he said, which “was received incredibly well”.

Sales remained steady throughout the long weekend as customers refused to be put off by the rain.

He noted another benefit to the festivities

Condiment Crowfunder hits 500k target

In a bid to grow the business, wastevegetable condiments brand Rubies in the Rubble has surpassed a £500,000 crowdfunding targetit had racked up more than £540,000 a week before its deadline.

The company, which uses farm produce that might have discarded them due to surplus, size, shape, blemishes or ripeness, plans on taking a 3% share of the national ketchup market within the next three years by targeting on and offtrade clients.

after gathering workers for a glass of prosecco after hours. “It helped our staff morale and made people proud of what we do,” said Newton.

Jen Grimstone-Jones, cheesemonger at The Pangbourne Cheese Shop, also found the Coronation to have a positive impact.

“It helped that Sunday was due to be an OK day weather-wise for all of the picnics,” she said. “We were open right up until lunchtime on Saturday and

Cunningham Butchers, Food Hall & Steak House was named Retailer of the Year 2023 at The Farm Shop & Deli Awards at the NEC in Birmingham on 25th April.

Hosted in partnership with The Grocer, the awards celebrate independent, specialist retailers across the UK. This year, businesses were nominated for supporting and developing their teams, based on measures taken to retain, reward and empower them. For the first time, the nine regions were split into small and large retailers based on having an annual turnover above or below £600,000. 2023 also saw the introduction of the ‘Newcomer of the Year’ award.

The judging panel was chaired by Nigel

were busier that morning than we had expected to be.”

The Berkshire business opened for a reduced day on the following bank holiday Monday and found trade was “not as good as it usually is at the start of the week”.

Frankie Dyer, owner of Barbakan Delicatessen, said the Manchester retailer was busy on the Friday before the Coronation - and the big day itself.

“Quiche sales in particular were very good and our deli counter sales were also quite high,” she explained.

Despite this upsurge, operating a reduced service on the bank holiday meant the firm “took about £3,000 less than usual”. Nevertheless “it was a good atmosphere” said Dyer.

Antonio Picciuto, owner of Buongiorno Italia, said the Hertfordshire deli saw “brisk” business in the run up to the Coronation weekend.

“On the Saturday we were very busy and didn’t get to watch hardly any of the service,” he added. “Takings were down a bit but I think this was purely due to the rain.”

Giovanni Canali, owner of Windsor-based Tastes Delicatessen, said an increase in people entering the store didn’t translate in to increased takings.

“Footfall was much better, and I received lots of compliments on how nice the shop was, but no extra money in the till.”

WHAT THEY ARE SAYING ABOUT... … THE WET BANK HOLIDAY

“The weather never seems to have an effect on us Brits, so we didn’t see much of a drop off in terms of sales through the Coronation bank holiday, if any. People were still coming in for the usual bits they want, as well as barbecue essentials such as burgers, sausages and kebabs.”

“We’re not too weather dependent here but the sun does draw people out. Pangbourne is a lovely place for people to visit, so the summer is a busy time of year for us. I think people are feeling quite worried with cost-of-living issues so a bit of warmth would reduce their energy costs and lift the mood.”

Barden and Elaine Lemm, joined by the likes of The Courtyard Dairy’s Andy Swinscoe, 2018 awardwinner and joint owner of Edge & Son, Debbie Edge, and Craft Guild of Chefs Fellow Ian Nottage.  Flourish Food Hall & Kitchen, the Cotswold Fayre-owned outlet in Bristol, which launched in June 2021, won the Newcomer of the Year

Award. Among the regional winners were Forage Farm Shop & Kitchen in Wales George and Joseph Cheesemongers in the North East, in the ‘small’ category, and The House of Bruar department store in the ‘large’ retailer category for Scotland. The full list of winners can be found at farmshopand delishow.co.uk

“As an Italian deli we are desperate for good long periods of dry warm days. We see a real increase in alfresco dining sales – tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, burratta, charcuterie, olives. But I already feel we have lost a lot of sunshine trade. April to June are the best months when the sun shines – come July the public just want to get away.”

5 June 2023 | Vol.23 Issue 5
TED NEWTON FARMER COPLEYS JEN GRIMSTONEJONES, THE PANGBOURNE CHEESE SHOP ANTONIO PICCIUTO, BUONGIORNO ITALIA

Diverse Fine Food looks to double in size as it reaches 10-year milestone

As it marks a decade in business, Diverse Fine Food is targeting ambitious sales growth – at the same time as upping its service levels and improving further on its sustainable practices.

The Somerset-based distributor, which supplies both independent retailers and the hospitality sector, told FFD it is looking to double sales within the next three years while striving for a fulfilment level of 98% and making deliveries greener.

Last month, Diverse took delivery of its first electric van, to take care of local deliveries direct from its base just off the M5. This is the latest step in a programme of environmental measures, including eradicating palm oil from its catalogue, zero-to-landfill waste and off-setting carbon via the Ecologi tree-planting scheme.

IN BRIEF

Clapham’s Italian grocer, Grapelli Food Hall, has opened a second outlet at The Gantry Hotel in Stratford in East London. Inspired by Roman Piazzicheria shops, the retailer sells a range of fresh produce, meat, and classic Italian deli items.

North Lanarkshire

butcher Coopers of Bellshill has won what organisers say is the first ever Haggis World Championship. Nearly 70 entries were submitted to the awards, which are organised by the Scottish Craft Butchers trade body.

Within the last 12 months, Diverse has successfully upgraded its IT system to ensure it will be able to handle higher order volumes, with plenty of room its 22,000sq ft warehouse.

“Growth is always really important for us but the thing we’ve been looking at over the last couple of years is how do we build the foundations for what we want to get to,” said

co-founder Mark Wiltshire. “We want to double the business in the next 3-5 years.”

With everything in place, co-founder and purchasing director Nicki Stewart is now focused on another key target.

“Our goal is to hit and maintain 98% service level,” she said, adding that Brexit and Covid had impacted on this level in recent years. The business is currently

DOWN ON THE FARM

The latest from farm shops across the country

Groveland Farm Shop in Norfolk recently opened a new restaurant adjoining the shop premises. Noah’s at Groveland is now serving breakfast, lunch and, newly launched, luxury af ternoon teas. There is a resident cake-maker ensuring the provision of bakes, clotted cream and scones, sandwiches, sausage rolls and copious amounts of tea. Even dogs are welcome in the conservatory area. grovelandfarmshop. co.uk

A new farm shop and ca fé has opened its door s about a mile out side Kirkby Stephen in Cumbria. An old bo arding kennel has bee n refurbished to ho use Owen’s Farm Sho p, which stocks only lo cal food and offers fr idges full of homereared meat and other temp ting provisions. The café has indoor and out door seating and of fers lots of hearty me als including a Su nday showstopper of a gian t Yorkshire pudding fil led to bursting with local beef, mash, veg and gravy! owensfarmshop.uk

first,” said Stewart. “Then it has to taste good. Then we look at the margins and the commercials. We’ve never gone from the other way round and said ‘How much money can we make from this?’”

It has no immediate plans to move into the chilled or frozen categories, but Diverse is looking to expand its groceries range, as well as the non-food “wellness lifestyle” category.

tracking at around 95%.

Wiltshire and Stewart said that they had established a management team as part of their 20-staff, and also brought former Lyreco MD Richard Ford on board as a director

all in a bid to drive the expansion of Diverse.

Despite these changes the pair have not changed their approach to sourcing new lines for the catalogue.

“It has to look good

Having added a selfservice Milk Shed to its own farm shop last year, Fen Farm Dairy has now expanded with a second Milk Shed at the Roy Humphrey’s car showroom site on the A140. Open seven days a week from 7am to 7pm, it offers food-to-go, fresh brewed coffee, raw milk, cheese, fresh baked sourdough and other local provisions. fenfarmdairy.co.uk

The company – whose customers include Harvey Nicholls, Westmorland and The Garden Centre Group – anticpates growth across all the sectors it supplies.

“I think there’s still a lot of market out there,” said Wiltshire. “It’s not just delis, farm shops and specialists – it’s anyone that wants to sell better quality food and drink. If you look at coffee shops, they have to up their game. They can’t just sell Walkers Crisps and Coca Cola.” diversefinefood.co.uk

Kent’s Lower Ladysden

Farm is now staging a classic car show on the second Sunday of every month from 10am until 1pm. The freeentry event will also feature a BBQ cooking throughout to serve customers, in addition to the well-stocked farm shop.

lowerladysden.co.uk

In association with Fabulous Farm Shops fabulousfarmshops.co.uk

6 CYBER CRIME NEWS June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5
Mark Wiltshire and Nicki Stewart recently took delivery of an electric van, as Diverse continues to evolve

guide to coffee companions

MADAGASCAR MEETS MEXICO

The most colossal cup of coffee was made in Mexico. The flavour in Baker & Barista’s Madagascan Bourbon Vanilla is as deep as the ocean. They say that opposites attract.

A LIFE OF CONTENTMENT

Creme Puff was a cat given coffee every day for 38 years. Baker & Barista’s Morello Cherry is refreshing and citrussy, but it never turned Creme sour.

ALL-BUTTER BISCUITS

THE MOTHER OF INVENTION

Coffee filters were cloth-made until a mother used paper from her son’s schoolbook. Baker & Barista’s Madagascan Vanilla is now Gluten-Free but just as accomplished. A lesson well learned.

HOT FOR EACH OTHER

Heat generated from a space capsule’s return to earth is set to roast coffee beans. Baker & Barista’s French Spiced Caramel is a warming biscuit burning with desire.

A WINNING COMBINATION

Powerful Serena Williams once ordered an expresso boost mid-match. The cocoa and muscovado of Baker & Barista’s Belgian Double Chocolate are equally intense. What a set!

the
AVAILABLE FROM JULY (AUGUST FOR GLUTEN-FREE). PACKAGING SHOWN IS ILLUSTRATIVE.
WITH SINGLE-ORIGIN PROVENANCE, AND A SINGLE-MINDED ATTACHMENT TO COFFEE.

IF I’D KNOWN THEN WHAT I KNOW NOW...

NICOLA KAMI, co-founder, Kami’s West Derby, Liverpool

Although I have always dreamed of running a restaurant, my background is in finance. When Covid hit, I lost my job and spent the next two years at home looking after the kids. When the local off-licence known as the ‘Yellow Shop’ became available in January 2022, my husband Miles and I signed a lease on it with the idea of turning it into a village shop, or deli.

We carried out the refit on a shoestring budget. We repurposed reclaimed pallets as shelving units, borrowed a coffee machine from our coffee supplier, and were gifted some deli fridges. It was hard work but I’m glad we did it that way. If we’d paid a company to do the renovations there wouldn’t be as much heart and soul in the place.

There was a big buzz in the area about us opening – we were inundated with positive messages and people promising they would come in. They were true to their word and the shop quickly became a community hub.

Having no money meant we couldn’t afford to take on any staff. I spent the first six months cooking, cleaning and serving customers before Miles came to the rescue. We make all our cakes, sandwiches, pastries and pastas. We also buy in farm shop products – honey, cheese, eggs, jams, biscuits and wine – and we know all our suppliers personally. We still haven’t taken a wage out of the company as we made the decision to reinvest any profits in equipment for the first year.

Juggling all the different jobs that are part of being a deli owner has been the biggest challenge for me. I am used to finance being my dedicated job – not one of many. I have worked 16-17 hour days for the past year and I never switch off. Even when the shop is closed, we are doing supply runs, replying to emails or doing the accounts. We cancelled the family holiday we had planned it so that we can renovate the upstairs to create a tearoom. Since we opened, we have been inundated with requests to eat in. People have been sitting on the window sills to eat.

I learned fairly quickly, however, that you can’t accommodate every customer request. At the start we were bending over backwards to source everything from quails’ eggs to freshly squeezed orange juice, but we soon realised that sometimes you have to say ‘no’.

Even so, I would never say to a customer or supplier that I haven’t got time to talk. We always make time for people and I think that is how we have created such a special place.

9 RETAILER VIEW June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5
Interview Lynda Searby Photography Stefanos Aktipis

CONFESSIONS OF A DELI OWNER

IT’S NOT THAT I’m lazy (I prefer to call it efficient) but many of the events that I put on each year are just repeats of what I have done before. A long time behind the counter has proven again and again that a well-rehearsed process produces better results.

We are good at Christmas. We are good at Easter. We have plans for picnics. We know the limitations of Mother’s Day, of Valentine’s Day, we barely nod to Grandparents’ Day or Rosé Wine Day (10th June, FYI).

We know that teachers’ presents are an opportunity to be mined. We know when the sports days and speech days of the local schools are. For each of these events, we know what to do and how to do it.

I’m not saying we don’t make changes or strive for improvements each year, but I have a sense of scale and I know roughly how much to stock. It’s just that I’m at pains to make sure the effort is commensurate with the benefit, and the benefit has to be enough.

Events like the Coronation fall completely outside that. I have no template to apply and I have no idea whether it will be worth it. And

MODEL RETAILING

Did you know that 75% of our stock is sourced within a 20-mile radius of our shop?

I do mean “worth it” in terms of cash. Still, a sense of national celebration (or even local celebration) is something to get involved with, isn’t it?

I don’t want the reputation of being a humbug, my shop is part of a community and I sit in the Chamber of Commerce. So, you bet I was up a ladder two weeks before and two weeks after the big day, hanging and unhanging

bunting that dates back to the Second World War.

And we put in the effort in the shop, whatever I may personally think of what hereditary wealth and influence says to our young people.

We made the Coronation Tart (sorry, quiche) and Coronation Chicken and our ownrecipe Coronation Rocky Road (no, I couldn’t possibly say what joke I was trying to make there). I even focused on royal-sounding British cheeses. When there was a street party on the Sunday, my team and I helped set up and clear up the tables. I actually really enjoyed it and so did they.

I’m still trying to work out whether I actually made any extra money directly from these festivities – and I didn’t expect to. But there is value in these kind of events. They help us connect to our customers.

The Coronation might have been the headline, but the day was about my town and the people in it.

I cannot afford, and would never want to, miss out on something like that.

No, I didn’t. Maybe you should print a newsletter.

Did you know that we’re working towards eradicating all singleuse plastic in the shop?

Did you know…?

Whoa! I’ll stop you there Mr Deli. I don’t know about anything unless it’s on social media. Have you got TikTok?

I had no idea. Maybe you should make some signage to let people know.

FFD says: Up and down the country, there are businesses doing great things –particularly when it comes to being more sustainable. But you can’t expect your customers to know about these things if you only tell the odd person in passing conversation. There is nothing wrong with telling people and other businesses what you’re doing. It’s good to spread a little positivity and it also makes you more attractive to potential customers and will open you up to new suppliers. Whether it’s in store, in print or online, make sure you shout about the good you’re doing.

10 RETAILER VIEW June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5
EVERYDAY SHOPKEEPING DILEMMAS. IN MINIATURE.
With kind permission of Geobra Brandstätter Stiftung & Co. KG, Germany. PLAYMOBIL is a registered trademark of Geobra Brandstätter Stiftung & Co. KG, for which also the displayed PLAYMOBIL toy figures are protected.
SOLVING
ANONYMOUS TALES FROM BEHIND THE COUNTER
We put in the effort in the shop, whatever I may personally think of what hereditary wealth and influence says to our young people

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June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5 2
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GETTING A HANDLE ON CROSS-CONTAMINATION

Technical and regulatory advice from the Guild of Fine Food’s Assured Code of Practice for Deli Retailing

Consideration must be given to the movement of employees and equipment (both production and cleaning) to ensure the prevention of cross-contamination. This could be done via colour coding, barriers and/or complete separation.

Food Standards Agency’s E. coli O157

Control of Cross-Contamination Guidance provides guidance for the control of crosscontamination between raw foods that are a possible source of E.coli O157 and ready-toeat foods.

Expert View

CX DIRECTOR AT INSIGHT

6 RICHARD KNIGHT ON THE HIGH COST OF A BAD EMPLOYEE EXPERIENCE AND HOW TO AVOID IT

Most of us understand the importance of delivering exceptional customer experiences (CX), but have you considered the impact of a bad employee experience on your CX and ultimately, your bottom line?

The employee experience refers to how employees feel about their interactions with their employer, including their work environment, duties, and relationships with colleagues.

According to a recent report, only 36% of UK employees are highly engaged in their jobs, and the UK’s productivity levels lag other major economies. Another report found that 71% of UK employees are looking for new job opportunities, indicating a significant dissatisfaction with their current experience.

Conversely, companies who are committed to delivering a positive employee experience reap the benefits. Studies have shown that companies with highly engaged employees experience a 10% increase in customer

This guidance will also help control cross-contamination risks from other pathogenic bacteria.

It is important to note that raw milk (unpasteurised) cheeses are ready-toeat foods and should not be considered ‘raw’ in the context of needing to be cooked before eating. Non ready-to-eat foods will be labelled to describe how they must be prepared before eating.

The guidance document is available at: See FSA Guidance Document “E. coli O157 Control of Cross-Contamination” food.gov uk/businessguidance/e-colicross-contamination-guidance

The guide is available in PDF format and is free for Guild members. For non-members, it costs £250+VAT. To request a copy of the Code of Practice, or for further information, email support@gff.co.uk

satisfaction and a 20% increase in customer loyalty.

Disengaged employees in the UK cost businesses an estimated £52-£70 billion per year in lost productivity and increased recruitment and retention costs.

To create a best-in-class employee experience, start by developing a clear strategy. Define your goals and objectives for employee experience and align them with your business strategy.

Foster a positive workplace culture that values employees and prioritises their wellbeing. You can provide opportunities for professional development, work-life balance, and recognition for a job well-done.

Invest in employee development. Provide ongoing training opportunities to help employees grow.

Listen to employee feedback, and act based on their input.

Measure employee experience and engagement using surveys and engagement scores to to identify areas for improvement.

Enhancing the employee experience is critical to creating a positive workplace culture that translates into a superior customer experience (CX) to drive business success. Investing in your employees benefits them and positively impacts your bottom line.

For more advice on how to improve your CX, visit insight6.com

WHAT’S TRENDING

1 Subscriptions The average consumer juggles subscriptions spanning everything from streaming services to meal kits, veg boxes and gym memberships. However, bricks and mortar restaurants are getting in on the action, too. In the US, P.F. Chang’s and Sweetgreens offer monthly subscriptions entitling customers to discounts, queueskipping, and double reward points. Closer to home, high-street behemoth Pret a Manger continues to roll out its £30-a-month deal, which includes five barista-made drinks per day, plus 10% off food.

2 Shochu According to the Evening Standard, one of the most talked about categories in today’s bar scene is shochu. Described as a ‘distilled sake,’ it can sit anywhere from 20-40% ABV. It is typically made with mash from rice, sweet potatoes, brown sugar, and buckwheat, leading to a diverse canon of flavours. On London’s Charlotte Street you’ll find Shochu Lounge, serving up a variety of different styles. While most shochu is still imported from Japan, Europes Il Four produces a brace of shochu distilled from sake lees.

3 Yeast fermented coffee While there’s a certain amount of natural yeast present in all coffee processing, some producers are using specific strains to develop another level of complexity. The additional yeast speeds up and alters the fermentation process, resulting in bold and dynamic flavours in the cup. British roasters such as Horsham, Outpost and Plot have been doing so, showcasing coffees with an extra depth of flavour that plays on the boozier side of fermentation.

13 ADVICE June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5
NICK
KEEPS
TO DATE WITH THE NEWEST DISHES, FLAVOURS AND INNOVATIONS IN FOOD & DRINK 1 2
BAINES
YOU UP
3
Raw milk cheeses should not be considered ‘raw’ in the context of needing to be cooked before eating

Genuinely divine Welsh wine

Often compared to New Zealand, Wales has gone from small scale to internationally renowned in the last 30 years, and overcome similar climate and landscape challenges.

A distinctive landscape and microclimate allow over 20 different grape varieties to thrive in Wales, which in turn produces exceptional still or sparkling, red, white and rosé wine.

The positioning of a vineyard and the landscape in which it operates is key to successful winemaking. To take advantage of a long growing season and long daylight hours, all vineyards located throughout Wales are positioned at above 49.9 degrees north, which result in strong aromatic flavours.

This means that it is possible to grow a broad range of grape varieties while maintaining the fundamental characteristics that arise from extreme latitude, with moderate temperatures producing a wine with crisp acidity.

Wine is one of an increasing list of protected Welsh food names, and each year, Welsh wine goes through a rigorous process in order to achieve the internationally known PDO or PGI status.

Following an application process and approval from a tasting panel, specific vintages are awarded the GI status. Each potential Welsh wine must pass an independent post-bottling analytical test and an organoleptic test.

June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5 14
With over 30 vineyards operating across the country, Wales’s credibility as an innovative producer of high-quality wine has blossomed thanks to its pioneering vineyard owners.

Products labelled Welsh Quality Wine or Welsh Regional Wine guarantees the genuine article, a product with proven Welsh heritage and tradition. However, while Wales enjoys its successful wine industry, it is not complacent. Developed at a pivotal time for Welsh vineyards, with the support of the Welsh Government’s Drinks Cluster, a first-of-its-kind strategy has been launched to set the future of the Welsh wine industry into focus over the next twelve years and increase the sector’s current value by 10-fold to reach £100 million by 2035.

The industry-led strategy is designed to ensure Wales builds on its emerging reputation as an experimental producer of varying wines, following some impressive successes in recent years that have been rewarded with a number of international awards.

In 2021, White Castle Vineyard in Monmouthshire won a gold medal (the first Welsh vintage to achieve this) for its ‘Pinot Noir Reserve 2018’ in the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA). Let the awards flow in. Wales has plenty to offer wine lovers.

Are you thirsty to find out a little bit more?

Why not visit a few vineyards when you next visit Wales, such as Gwinllan Conwy Vineyard in Conwy, Hebron Vineyard in Carmarthenshire or Velfrey Vineyard in Pembrokeshire. Alternatively, visit Glyndwr Vineyard in the Vale of Glamorgan, the oldest in Wales. Many vineyards host tours and wine tasting.

Are you won over by Welsh wine?

Find out more through the annual Welsh Wine Week, which takes place this year 2 – 11 June.

For more information on Welsh Wine Week, visit www.welshwineweek.co.uk

Vol.24 Issue 5 | June 2023 15

WE ARE

• Inspired Product Collection

• Innovation is in our DNA

• Consolidation for Positive Impact

• A Complete Customer Experience

• Social Responsibility Guides our Decisions

FINE
DELIVERED DIFFERENTLY
FOOD diversefinefood.co.uk

Scientists have their say as Listeria recalls continue

Scientists say an apparent increase in recalls of British cheese because of concerns about Listeria monocytogenes may be due to increased testing by cheesemakers.

Lactalis McLelland issued a recall for several pasteurised goat’s cheeses at the end of April over fears they could be contaminated with Listeria, including Cricket St Thomas Capricorn Goat cheese (100g) and Somerset Capricorn Goat Cheese (100g and 85g). No other products Cricket St Thomas or Capricorn products were affected by the recall.

The news followed recalls for Baronet cheese in March, after batches tested positive

for Listeria and were linked to an outbreak in which one person died. Around 25 British cheeses were also recalled by Cambridge-based wholesaler Cheese+ over fears they could have been cross-contaminated by a batch of Baronet. In a separate case, Pennard Red was recalled in April by the Somerset Cheese Company after Listeria was detected.

One cheese consultant, who wished to remain anonymous, told FFD that Listeria recalls were not uncommon. “Alerts are issued each year in a variety of foods including fish and dairy,” he said. “Other issues might not get any press or public attention if the contaminant is detected before the food reaches retail level. One possibility is that,

following a food incident, other food businesses may increase vigilance and testing. This may increase the apparent frequency of detection.”

Catherine Rees, professor of microbiology at the University of Nottingham, said that pasteurisation reduces the risk of Listeria being in the milk, but the surfaces of cheeses (whether raw or pasteurised) could become contaminated during maturation and distribution.

She added that Listeria was a particular problem for ready-toeat chilled products because it grows at low temperatures.

“Listeria is the Renaissance Man of the bacterial world, brilliant at adapting to new conditions and hence it is one of the few bacteria that can cause disease in humans that is also able to grow in chill rooms,” said Rees. “As a consequence, the dairy industry is extremely vigilant about this bacterium, with regular testing of the environment to make sure it doesn’t take hold. However, any food industry that involves cold rooms for storing product knows there is a risk of Listeria contamination.”

Listeria infection in healthy people usually goes unnoticed or causes very mild illness. However, it can have more serious consequences for people with pre-existing health conditions and pregnant women. There are around 150 reported cases in the UK each year.

THREE WAYS WITH...

Cornish Gouda

Cornish Gouda is made by Giel Spierings at Talvan Farm, near Looe, using milk from his family’s own herd of cows. The mature cheese is aged for around 10-12 months and has a fruity flavour and crystalline texture. The cheese is richer and grassier than many Dutch Goudas.

Quesadillas

Cornish Gouda melts really well. Rick Stein is certainly a fan, featuring the cheese in his recent TV series and book, in which he uses it to make cheese quesadillas with caramelised apples and onions. The apples are softened with the onions and some sugar in a hot pan with melted butter. They are then used as a filling with melted Gouda in a tortilla.

Cumin praline

NEWS IN BRIEF

Curlew Dairy in Yorkshire has changed the name of its raw milk cheese from Old Roan to Yoredale Wensleydale, after the original name for the valley of Wensleydale.

Bristol cheesemonger and bottle shop Two Belly has closed after five years of trading. The owners will push on with plans to appear at festivals throughout the spring and summer with their food truck, The Cheese Guys.

Derbyshire Stilton-maker Hartington Creamery is planning to build a cheesemaking heritage centre and visitor experience in Hartington.

Creamy Bavarian blue Grand Noir has been launched in waxed wedges for the first time. The new line has been developed by Elite Imports, which imports the cheese from producer Kaserei Champignon, in collaboration with wholesaler Carron Lodge. Waxing the cheese increases the shelf life up to 55 days compared to a wheel of cheese.

Spierings makes cumin and fenugreek flavoured versions of his cheese, a practice that has a long history in Holland with the seeds adding a pleasing crunch and spicy fragrance. At the Pick and Cheese restaurant in London, original mature Cornish Gouda is served with a glass-like shard of cumin praline instead. It’s made by melting sugar slowly in a pan until it turns to liquid, before pouring onto a tray and sprinkling with cumin seeds and allowing to cool into a hard sheet.

Amber ale

Ben Vinken and Michel Van Tricht’s useful book Beer & Cheese is packed full of good pairings for curd and grain. For Gouda, the authors recommend bottle fermented Palm – a Belgian amber ale, which has honey and fruity notes, which pick up on the sweet butterscotch flavour in the cheese. The Kernel Brown Ale and Tiny Rebel’s Cwtch are good British alternatives.

17 CHEESE June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5
One scientist suggested that an increase in testing has led to the rise in recalls

Monkland to continue making after chef saves Herefordshire operation

Herefordshire-based Monkland Cheese Dairy has been saved by a local chef, who has bought the business founded by Mark and Karen Hindle nearly 30 years ago.

The dairy in Leominster, which makes raw milk cheeses, including Little Hereford, Monkland and Blue Monk, has been bought by Dean Storey, who previously worked as a chef and manager for local cafe business Bill’s Kitchen.

The Hindles, who started cheesemaking 27 years ago, stopped production in September, partly because they wanted to retire and partly due to rising utility bills.

Storey bought the business in March and changed the name to Monkland Cheesemakers.

He is learning to make cheese with the couple and plans to get back to full production by August, so that hard cheeses are ready for Christmas.

CHEESE IN PROFILE with

Pevensey Blue

What’s

the story?

Pevensey Blue caused a stir in the UK cheese world when it won the Supreme Champion award at last year’s Artisan Cheese Awards, alongside awards for Best New and Best Blue. Its creators, Martin and Hazel Tkalez, had only been making cheese on their farm in Sussex for two years. When Martin, a former cheesemonger at Neal’s Yard Dairy, spent a year with the

“I always loved Monkland’s cheeses as a chef, so it’s very exciting to keep the tradition going,” said Storey. “I’m new to the cheesemaking game, so I’m trying to learn as much as possible.”

Monkland buys raw milk from two local farms and has the capacity to make around 15 tonnes of cheese a year.

Long-standing customers include Oakchurch Farm Shop and Mousetrap Cheese, plus wholesalers Cheltenham

Trethowan Brothers, Hazel set about developing the Pevensey Cheese Company in the fodder shed on her parents’ farm. The Gorgonzolastyle Pevensey Blue is made with organic cows’ milk supplied by their partners, David & Marian Harding, of nearby Court Lodge Dairy. The herd grazes on the Pevensey Levels Nature Reserve in Sussex, giving the cheese its name. The Hardings are keen wildlife lovers, so sustainability and encouragement of biodiversity are integral to their farming system, as is the wellbeing of their cows.

Cheese Company and Total Produce. There is also a shop and café on site, which will continue to be run by the Hindles.

“We make the only hard cows’ milk cheeses in Herefordshire and there has been a resurgence of farm shops, which has been fantastic,” said Storey. “Once I have my feet under the vat, I will be looking to grow with other independent retailers in the area.”

BEHIND THE COUNTER TIPS OF THE TRADE

Tony Cowling, owner, The Cheese Hut, Brighton

Brighton-based wholesaler The Cheese Man has a popular shop at its HQ called The Cheese Hut, where there’s always something new to taste.

The small wooden shop has two tasting areas where customers can help themselves to samples. “We try to keep them interesting so they’re a talking point and get some interaction going,” says Cowling.

Recent examples include three Comtés at different ages – 10,12 and 18 months – and a selection of farmhouse cheddars.

“During Covid, there were no tastings so it was great to bring them back and they genuinely help with sales,” he says.

A different ‘cheese of the week’ and new cheeses are also sampled, while The Cheese Hut’s popular monthly cheese box is displayed.

“We use little blackboards and really pile the cheeses up to make an impact,” says Cowling. “We often have people telling us they don’t like goat or blue cheeses, but when they taste something milder and creamier they are converted.”

thecheesehut.co.uk

Milk: Cows’, pasteurised.

How is it made?

Pevensey Blue is made by hand in batches of 50-60 wheels each week. The milk is collected fresh each morning and taken back to Hockham Farm, just five minutes away, where it is pasteurised in the cheese make room. After cultures, animal rennet and Penicillium Roqueforti

have been added, the curds are cut and stirred very gently until the correct acidity is reached. At this point, they are scooped into moulds, turned every 20 minutes and left to drain overnight. The cheeses are salted the next day, left to drain for a further 24 hours before placing in their maturing rooms to age for 12 weeks, with piercing taking place initially after one week and then again after two.

Appearance & texture:

Underneath its thin and velvety rind, the texture is soft and fudgy, with

not too much veining. It has a lasting finish, starting with sweet, biscuity flavours leading into notes of hazelnut, chocolate and aniseed, accompanied by just a hint of blue spice.

Cheesemonger tip:  Pevensey Blue is soft and creamy enough to spread on a crusty white sourdough, with a smear of fig jam or drizzle of honey.

Chef’s

recommendation:

The cheese is delicious crumbled over roasted butternut and beetroot. Serve it with a fruity Pinot Noir or dessert wine, such as Sauternes.

There are a number of ways you can study Academy of Cheese courses: online as selfstudy eLearning, interactive virtual classes or traditional classes at a venue. Visit academyofcheese.org for more information.

18 CHEESE June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5
The Hindles founded the Mousetrap shops in Leominster, Ludlow and Hereford, but sold up in 2012 to focus on cheese production

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Small-scale success

the UK that never feel the sun on their backs or the rain on their faces.”

WHEN DOM LAWRANCE started making cheese at Plaw Hatch Farm he thought it would be a good idea to meet the cows whose milk he would be using. Among the 30-strong herd, which graze just a few hundred metres from the dairy near Ashdown Forest in East Sussex, was one particularly curious animal.

“She was so friendly and inquisitive that I memorised her tag number and asked the herdsman about her later,” he says. “He didn’t need the tag number. He knew it was Betsy straight away.”

This was nine years ago and Betsy is still part of the herd, with her milk used to make raw drinking milk, yoghurt and unpasteurised cheeses. That’s a ripe old age when you consider the average lifespan of a cow on a conventional dairy farm is just six years.

Plaw Hatch’s milkers on the other hand regularly live for 10-15 years thanks to a commitment to organic and biodynamic farming principles, which have been in place for 40 years at the community-owned farm.

The cows are pasture-fed, grazing a diverse range of plants in the summer, as part of a “rational grazing” system, which sees them moved between paddocks to prevent overgrazing and to allow the soil and pasture to recover. In the winter they are fed silage cut from the same fields.

“We don’t buy in protein and push our cows to produce lots of milk,” explains herd manager Robin Hall as we take a tour of the farm. “In the winter, their milk levels drop and in the summer they go back up again. It’s a traditional cycle. There are plenty of cows in

Calves are not dehorned as is common on most dairy farms, while homeopathic preparations are also made by fermenting manure and silica (quartz meal) in cow horns underground. These are sprayed onto the land to help improve soil and plants. “It’s a mystery but it works,” says Hall. “It’s a way of communicating your intent to nature.”

This holistic approach means yields are low – just 4,000 litres of milk a year per animal, compared to a national average of twice that amount – and there are big seasonal differences. In the dairy, Dom Lawrance explains he didn’t make cheese between January and April because the herd was only producing 200 litres a day, all of which went into raw milk for drinking – a popular product in the farm’s shop.

“We had to make the difficult decision to stop supplying wholesalers with cheese in the run up to Christmas because stocks were low,” says Lawrance.

With the cows now back out at pasture, milk levels have surged to more than 400 litres a day, so the Dutch vat is in action again with around 120kg of cheese made a week. “We have limited acreage on the farm, which means we can only make a certain amount of milk,” he says. “It’s a case of doing what we do better and making the most of what we have. The priority in the dairy is to supply the shop because that gives us the best profit.”

As well as dairy, the farm shop sells meat, fruit and vegetables grown on the farm, supplemented by other local organic and biodynamic products. The coffee barn opposite also does a tidy trade. “What underpins everything here is the shop,” says Hall. “People ask how we can make money with just 30 cows, but with an integrated system you can.” plawhatchfarm.co.uk

Plaw Hatch Cheddar

Plaw Hatch makes three cheeses: Cheddar, Dutchman Gouda and the Halloumi-style Sussex Sizzler. The raw milk cheddar is made using gouda moulds and is clothbound with butter. It is aged for between three and 24 months in a maturing room with a viewing window behind the farm shop’s till.

Plaw Hatch rears MeuseRhine-Issel cows – a hardy, disease resistant breed from the Netherlands. The use of raw milk is fundamental to the farm’s values, preserving the nutritional benefits of the milk and the terroir of the farm.

Former head cheesemaker Tali Eichner helped found the Raw Milk Producers Association and worked with the Food Standards Agency to develop a new guidance document for producers of raw milk for drinking.

The mature cheddar changes with the season, but typically has a toothsome texture and a rich buttery flavour, plus pronounced tang with grassy and spicy notes. It’s earthy and farmy near the rind.

21 CHEESE June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5
We don’t buy in protein and push our cows to produce lots of milk
1
Plaw Hatch produces a range of organic raw milk cheeses from a herd of just 30 cows
CROSS SECTION 2 3

BEST CHEESE IN THE WORLD.

Vol.24 Issue 4 | May 2023 3 5Super Gold 9Gold 18Bronze 20Silver LE GRUYÈRE AOP RÉSERVE WORLD CHEESE AWARD WINNER 2022
C M Y CM MY CY CMY K

Look closer to home

IN THE DAY-TO-DAY of running a business, prioritising sustainability isn’t always easy. Most retailers now acknowledge that it’s an important thing to consider but the notion that we all have to save the planet in our own way can also be a little bit daunting.

That’s partly because sustainability has many strands to it, and knowing where to focus attention can be tricky.

Thankfully, some of the solutions out there are quite simple and timeless. Sustain, an advocacy group campaigning to improve sustainability and health from within the food system is convinced that many of our problems would be solved by shortening supply chains, and encouraging people to eat locally.

While many independent retailers know the benefits of operating within their communities, the Sustain alliance of 100 cross-sector food groups – including the National Trust, the RSPB, conservation charities, farming organisations, certification bodies and supply chain professionals – has produced several reports showing the tangible benefits of a local food economy.

Concluding years of work with local authorities, businesses and community groups, it was among those advising Henry Dimbleby’s National Food Strategy, focusing on improving access to local food.

Among its findings in The Case For Local Food report is that money goes further at a local level. For instance, it says, a job is created for every £42,000 turnover within a food SME compared with £124,000 at a supermarket. And for every pound spent locally, there is £3.70 in economic, social and environmental returns.

In terms of environmental benefits, there’s a clear association between local food systems, short supply and agro-ecological production: local food is often organic, as it is easier to produce at a small scale, and seasonal.

And while specialisation leads to lost species and habitats, local food systems will support and require more diverse farming systems to be in place. This, in turn, supports

more wildlife diversity.

Purely from an emissions perspective, longer supply chains produce three times the carbon, not just because of food miles but because of the need for refrigerated transport and storage.

For example, it says, a large retail supplier adds about 69 grams of CO2 equivalent per 1kg of potatoes and 959 CO2 equivalent per 1kg of strawberries – and that’s just UK veg.

Conventional supply chains also produce anywhere between 10 and 25% more waste than short ones: in terms of air freighted veg, most beans, peas and sprouts in supermarkets are about six to eight kg CO2 equivalent.

When it comes to waste – one of the world’s worst culprits of environmental damage

the group’s studies have shown that local food produces significantly less of it, if nothing else by reducing overproduction associated with supermarket supplies: long supply chains generate a high percentage of post-farm loss. Between 3% and 16% is lost at the retail and distribution stage, due to overordering, grading, storing, and packaging practices.

In addition to this, research suggests farmers’ waste due to cosmetic standards is about 7.4%, though it is much higher for some crops.

One area of traction picked up by Dimbleby’s food strategy is how to build resilience into it – which, again, Sustain says, is aided by nurturing the local economy.

Firstly, because it supports more genetic diversity in farming systems – whether this is traditional or rare breeds, heirloom and heritage varieties not suited to large scale processing and distribution.

The charity argues that the stranglehold that supermarkets have over supply chains is leading us in a dangerous direction, exemplified by recent issues around market failure.

“Rightly there has been a lot of emphasis on what we buy, how it has been produced and the

SUSTAINABILITY 25 June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5
The idea of sourcing products locally isn’t new. But according to research by advocacy group Sustain, it is one of the most straightforward ways of improving the UK’s food system’s ecological record.
We need to diversify where we shop, supporting independent retailers, both with our purses and with policies, with investment and infrastructure.
Ben Reynolds, deputy CEO, Sustain
CONTINUED ON PAGE 26

good and bad that these products contain,” says Ben Reynolds, deputy CEO of Sustain.

“But how and where we buy, is intricately linked with these choices and the impact they have. In the UK, we have a concentration of power in a handful of retailers and manufacturers, which not only dictate the choices on offer, but on how they are produced. The result is that many British farmers have been squeezed so hard it is no longer viable for them to farm.”

“We need to diversify where we shop, supporting independent retailers, both with our purses and with policies, with investment and infrastructure.”

Even if an independent retailer is already doing their sustainable bit by working with local producers, actively promoting their credentials and improving their communication could help generate more sales.

One easy way of doing so is showing that supermarkets are actually more fragile than they look – evidenced by produce shortages affecting them, but not indies, in recent months.

Retailers can also bust some myths about pricing. Remember that not everyone will know you can sell local, organic produce for less than it costs in supermarkets. And by doing so, a retailer will be demonstrating genuine value for money.

Capitalise on the fact that producers are

getting a fair deal, because consumers do really care about that.

Sustain produced a report called Unpicking Food Prices which looked at where money spent on food goes in the supply chain. It showed that shorter supply chains mean more income for producers and farmers, for a product which costs the same, or barely more.

Consumers may be less inclined to buy a loaf of bread if they know the farmers are getting less than 1% of the profits – and indeed, the report shows that for a wrapped, sliced loaf of bread, the cereal farmer spends 9.03p, yet receives an almost negligible profit (0.09p) on a selling price of £1.14 in a supermarket. In contrast, for a loaf sold in an independent shop, they make 0.5p profit.

If retailers have a direct relationship with farmers, it can really prove beneficial for every business involved. According to Sustain’s research, a survey of 500 farmers showed that more than half would rather supply local food outlets, and a similar percentage would consider joining a cooperative.

“More retailers of different sizes will provide more options for farmers, and keep them in business and – in doing so – help with our food security,” Reynolds tells FFD “Not only will this reduce the reliance on imports which in many cases can have a much higher environmental impact, but research has shown that alternative retail supply chains specifically support more nature friendly farming, are less wasteful and require less refrigeration and its associated carbon.”

Sustain is working on a campaign to create a 10% market for non-multiple retail, by encouraging the right policies, investment and marketing. For more information, visit sustainweb.org

HOW TO TALK TO YOUR CUSTOMERS ABOUT SUSTAINABILITY

It’s almost impossible to run a business without having a sustainability strategy, but how you communicate what you’re doing is just as important, says marketing expert

We all have a basic understanding of the best practices: you can reduce your waste output, improve your energy and water efficiency; you can become a recycling point and buy only sustainable, ecopackaged products; you can be a champion of biodiversity and get involved in rewilding projects in your local community.

While it’s very easy to have wonderful agendas that everyone within the business knows about, if you don’t share them, it’s a massive missed opportunity.

So what are you doing that needs to be shared? What are you sharing to your customers, and how is that message coming across?

• Use scheduling tools: We’re all busy trying to do and keep doing. When it comes to sharing those messages, scheduling tools make it easy, because you can plan a week’s worth of posts in an hour.

• Share what you’re doing on the right platform: Don’t try to cover half a dozen social media platforms. Only share where you know you get the most engagement.

• Keep things focused: If you are doing a newsletter and sustainability is one of your key objectives, out of three posts, share one about sustainability.

• Don’t take on a massive goal that you can’t achieve, and make sure it has gravitas: Whatever you do, be mindful that it has enough impact - but also that you can deliver it.

• Give something back: Working with charity is really important, but pick who you want to work with and what’s important to you. Your support for a charity doesn’t always have to be financial, you and your staff can do volunteer days, too.

Read the policy brief @ bit.ly/TheCaseforLocalFood

The full report is available here @ bit.ly/TheCaseForLocalFoodFull

And the breakdown of how the cost of food is distributed here bit.ly/UnpickingFoodPrices

• Hashtags: Pick the ones that are important to you. National food days are some of them, but what matters is to create a buzz and come together with your community to make your voice louder.

SUSTAINABILITY 26 June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5
More retailers of different sizes will provide more options for farmers, and keep them in business and – in doing so – help with our food security.
Ben Reynolds, deputy CEO, Sustain
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FROM THE DELI KITCHEN

SIMPLE RECIPES TO BOOST YOUR MARGINS

SMOKED MACKEREL RILLETTES

Ingredients:

4 fillets of good quality smoked mackerel, remove any bones and break into flakes

1 tbsp vegetable oil

½ cucumber, peeled

75ml white wine vinegar

75g caster sugar

200ml crème fraîche

1 dessert spoon fresh

horseradish, finely grated (you can use horseradish sauce if you can’t find it fresh)

1 dessert spoon dill, finely chopped

4 spring onions, finely sliced

2 tsp fine capers

½ lemon, zest and juice

Pinch of celery salt

Pinch cayenne pepper

Salt & freshly ground black

pepper

4 English muffins, toasted

Method:

Preheat the oven to 160°C (normal) | 140°C (fan) | gas mark

3.

For the cucumber, briefly boil the vinegar with the sugar in a saucepan. Ensure the sugar is dissolved and then set aside to cool. Cut the peeled cucumber in half lengthways and scoop the seeds out with a teaspoon. Then cut each half into four lengthways and finally chop these lengths into rough dice. Transfer them to a small colander, sprinkle with salt, set aside for 30 minutes and then rinse well. Put the cucumber into a clean tea towel and squeeze firmly to get rid of any excess moisture and salt. Add to the vinegar and sugar solution. Set aside for at least 30 minutes to pickle.

For the rillettes, put the crème fraîche, horseradish, dill, spring onions, capers and lemon juice and zest, celery salt and cayenne into a bowl and mix. Drain the cucumber and add to the crème fraîche mix. Finally fold in the mackerel flakes to give a rich, creamy mix. Allow to sit for 5 minutes, stir briefly again, check the seasoning and adjust if necessary. Set aside to chill in the fridge.

To serve, divide equally between four plates and serve with a toasted muffin.

Recipe by Phil Howard, chef and co-owner at Elystan Street elystanstreet.com

EQUIPMENT & INGREDIENTS

Cocktail ingredients brand Bristol Syrup Co. has released a range of fresh fruit juices and purées to complement its syrups: The 600ml pouches - lemon, lime, mango, passionfruit, strawberry, raspberry and peach - range between 90-100% fruit content and have a shelf life of seven days once opened. bristolsyrupcompany.com

Vigo’s new range of volumetric machines are said to offer precise dosing for filling jars, bottles and pouches.

The devices are made from high grade stainless steel and customised with valves and nozzles to suit the product and filling container. Both are operated with compressed air. The Doselite doses quantities between 0 and 1,300ml and the Dosematic from 200 to 5,000m, with the option of pedal control or automated issue. vigoltd.com

Foodservice operators and bakers wanting to to jazz up their baked goods can now buy a rainbow range of cupcake cases and muffin wraps from Chevler The Wales-based manufacturer says the paper is made with high quality greaseproof paper and food safe ink. The 51mm x 38mm cupcake cases can be purchased in packs of 360, while the 160 x 160 x 50mm base tulip muffin wraps are packed in sleeves of 200. chevler.co.uk

31 FOODSERVICE June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5
© Natallya Naumava Dreamstime.com

THE UK’S LEADING SHOWCASE OF ARTISANAL FOOD & DRINK

Speciality & Fine Food Fair is set to return for another sensational edition on the 11-12 September 2023 at Olympia London.

“The Fair has been an amazing experience and a really great opportunity to meet people and to get my product in front of key decision makers.”

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Interested in exhibiting? Email sfffteam@montgomerygroup.com to find out more.

#SFFF23 | #SFFFNEW www.specialityandfinefoodfairs.co.uk

Tayport Distillery have meticulously crafted a spirits collection with each bottle delivering a great experience. Savour authenticity in every sip and discover exceptional taste. Our thoughtfully designed bottles add elegance to your establishment. Cheers to a journey of flavour and sophistication.

SEEKING DISTRIBUTORS IN ENGLAND

email: info@tayspirits.com

Vol.24 Issue 5 | June 2023 33

Let’s get functional

Believe

not, health-improving

DRINKS USED TO be a relatively straightforward category. Milk was milk, beer was beer, and water was water. Until recently, their so-called function was to quench thirst and taste good – but to describe a drink as "functional" now denotes a broad sub-category of beverages that claim to do much more. Whether it’s scientifically proven digestive benefits or anecdote-backed mood improvers, there is a real spectrum of products out there for retailers to embrace.

So what exactly are these functional drinks and how should retailers go about stocking them?

The easiest gateway might be something that most reading this will have at least dabbled in. As far as low- and no-alcohol drinks are concerned, function can be anything from giving energy, helping with relaxation or sleep, even delivering health benefits – in any case, delivering bang for buck that you won’t get from a fruity sparkling water.

This makes them more attractive in social situations where people would traditionally have picked up an alcoholic beverage – and thus, an interesting sales opportunity –according to Laura Willoughby, owner of lowand no-alcohol drinks outlet Club Soda.

As she sees it, producers are cottoning on to growing demand for what she calls “mindful drinking”, making functional drinks an exciting development in the alcohol alternatives category.

“Alcohol-free drinks feel like something has been taken away, whereas a ‘functional adaptogenic’ sounds like it has something added which has got some benefits for the consumer, so it offers something in the way that alcohol does,” she adds.

Willoughby distinguishes three subcategories within this area of functional, low- and no-alcohol drinks: CBD drinks, drinks with adaptogenic ingredients and drinks that

claim to stimulate your GABA receptors –triggering a similar effect to alcohol.

Whether you're in tune with the CBD movement or not, the fact that sales of category-leading brand Trip grew more than fivefold in the 12 months leading up to March 2023 means that you probably need to pay some attention.

According to Trip co-founder Olivia Ferdi, CBD “targets your endocannabinoid system, it helps manage your stress, your mood, your sleep, your pain, your tension, and it works all day”.

And while a WHO study recently did correlate CBD consumption with reduced symptoms of anxiety, she puts the brand’s success down to the fact that “people, anecdotally, have this experience”.

“I think it’s very powerful,” adds Ferdi. “There are very few categories in the functional space where you can look back and think things have exploded because it actually did what it said on the tin – which is funny, because you can’t say what it does on the tin.”

For Zoey Henderson at Functn Drinks, adding functional mushrooms (otherwise known as adaptogens) to low-alcohol beer was a no-brainer, because it was another vehicle for them alongside her daily supplements and coffee-based drinks.

“I loved alcohol-free beer, because it was made in the same way, it wasn’t pretending to be a beer,” she says. “It has the same flavour profiles, it isn’t sugary, and you can stand there and have a pint and people won’t notice that you aren’t drinking.”

The range includes a Lion’s Mane IPA, which incidentally has won a plethora of awards; Shiitake Dark Lager and Reishi Citra, which purport to contain anti-inflammatory and antihistamines, and, in the case of Lion’s Mane, are a so-called nootropic, which is said to help with cognitive function.

DRINKS 34 June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5
it or
sodas, mood-lifting mushroom beers and non-alcoholic spirits that make you feel tipsy are all very real developments in the “functional” drinks category. But how is this eccentric category defined, and is it really worth independent retailers’ time?

Not that you, as a retailer, can say that. “With herbal products and fungi in the UK, there’s not much you can make direct claims around,” Henderson explains.

“There’s only really the core of vitamins and minerals. If you’re over-indexed in Vitamin C, you can say ‘helps support the immune system’ and with Vitamin B12, you can say a product ‘helps cognitive function’. There are only a few things that you can really say.”

Henderson adds that, irrespective of these drinks’ purported benefits, customers are buying them because they like the taste.

“First and foremost, we’re a great alcoholfree beer. We’ve won lots of awards in those categories, so we’re recognised as such.”

While mushroom-enhanced beer or CBD soda might sound a bit out there, there is one so-called functional drink that many independent retailers and their customers are embracing, and that’s kombucha.

Although its gut health benefits are far more researched now, kombucha’s sales boom was fuelled by consumers taking a leap of faith in its functionality.

Tapping into this, as well as selling ‘guthealthy soda’, ‘live soda’ (containing live vinegar shots) as well as CBD drinks, is Cheshire-based Hip Pop.

The company’s idea – creating a craft product which takes provenance, quality of ingredients and health benefits into consideration – aligns nicely with the ethos of independent retailers, says co-founder Kenny Goodman.

“If you go to any of the big retailers, all of their drinks, except for ginger and turmeric shots, are what I would call ‘net negative’, says Goodman, “which means you are worse off if you drink one than you were before you started.”

Hip Pop’s founder, who himself got into kombucha to treat his IBS, has this at the forefront of his thinking when developing products with his head brewer, Ryan Mercer.

“We give him the impossible task of creative drinks that are low in sugar, contain no sweeteners, that are net positive for your body.”

THE NEW VOCAB IN DRINKS NPD

Functional: Serving a purpose – such as increasing energy levels, aiding relaxation, enhancing one’s mood, being nutritionally beneficial or improving cognitive function. It doesn’t have to be new age. Caffeine is functional. Ginger is functional. Dietary fibre, vitamins and minerals are functional.

Adaptogens: Natural substances which claim to help the body adapt to stress and promote or restore normal physiological functioning.

Nootropics: Contain substances said to help with cognition and memory.

Prebiotics/probiotics: Prebiotics are non-digestible food ingredient that promote the growth of beneficial microorganisms in the intestines. Probiotics are live bacteria and yeasts added to food & drink or taken as food supplements, thought to help restore the natural balance of bacteria in the gut.

CBD: Cannabidiol is a non-psychoactive cannabinoid compound found in the cannabis plant. It’s increasingly used to self-treat various conditions, including pain, anxiety, and insomnia. The most commonly sold CBD product is CBD oil, however, the range of products containing CBD also includes food supplements, drinks, cosmetics and liquids for vaping.

ARE CONSUMERS TURNING THEIR BACKS ON ALCOHOL?

In the UK, alcohol consumption has been falling steadily for the past two decades, especially among younger people. According to The Guardian, between 2002 and 2019, the number of 16-24 year olds in the UK who reported drinking weekly fell from 67% to 41%.

Data published by the organisation behind Dry January, Alcohol Change UK, showed that 30% of Britons intended on reducing their alcohol consumption in 2023, compared with 25% in 2022.

Plus, consumer research by drinks market organisation IWSR identified that 40% of low-no consumers are likely to substitute alcoholic drinks, and that upwards of 20% of consumers now regularly switch between no/low and fullstrength on the same occasion.

Meanwhile, the health and wellness economy is rising steadily, worth £1.26 trillion as of January 2023, according to the consultants McKinsey.

35 June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5 >>
Alcohol-free drinks feel like something has been taken away, whereas a ‘functional adaptogenic’ sounds like it has something added.
, Club
CONTINUED ON PAGE 51

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Like other producers in this relatively new area of NPD, Goodman is open-minded about where his kombuchas could sit on retailers’ shelves.

“To start with we think we’re going to be with functional drinks - anywhere where there are CBD drinks, vitamin drinks, anything like that,” he says.

“We eventually want to be with traditional sodas as well. Our drinks are very versatile. They may evolve to be an option in the craft beer section. Who knows where buyers will decide to place them.”

Perhaps the most curious of the functional sub-categories is the one that tries to emulate the effects of alcohol. The most well-known of these is the non-alcoholic spirit alternative, Sentia. Developed by a team of scientists led by David Nutt - a former government adviser who was asked to resign after saying that ecstasy and LSD were less dangerous than alcohol - Sentia targets the gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA) system in the brain. In layman’s terms, this results in what it says is a calming effect. The product is a stop gap for the brand, who is in the process of developing a new molecular compound with the same effect. For now, explains Sentia director Chris Kazakeos, “Sentia is a blend of about 10-15 plants which stimulate our natural GABA neurotransmitters the way alcohol does, but because the alcohol is not present, there’s none of the downsides."

“So it doesn’t mess with your executive functions at all. It’ll elevate you and make you feel that nice feeling, but you still have your full faculties. You can do all of your normal everyday stuff, you just feel that nice feeling.”

If that sounds too good to be true, it is worth noting that the recommended daily

intake of Sentia is 100ml a day, and you are advised to avoid it if you are on medication, pregnant or breastfeeding, or driving.

But with a returning customer rate of more than 50%, coverage across multiple UK and US media outlets, and listings in some of the country’s top restaurants, it certainly hints at having potential for retailers – especially independents that can explain the product fully.

In that sense, Sentia and the other products mentioned in this article are similar to a lot of the items delis and farm shops sell. They have begun their lives in the direct-to-consumer market because they require a degree of explanation to court potential customers –but now they need a new route to market to continue their rapid growth.

The best way for retailers to get into this category is to find a handful of producers willing to do in-store tastings for customers. The popular products will sell themselves, says Club Soda’s Laura Willoughby.

“You can sample low-and-no in store at any time of day, you don’t have to worry about your customers driving home, and because it’s a new sector, brands are really keen to help you.”

As always, your best bet is to pick products that taste good, because it gives you an extra edge on trying to sell something purely for its function.

“Once you’ve found brands that you like, speak to them, tell them that you’d like to do some activations with them in store,” she adds. “They’ll be very up for it in a way that you wouldn’t get with alcohol.”

However customers want their drinks to function, there’s a good chance they could work for retailers too.

OTHER FUNCTIONAL DRINKS ARE AVAILABLE

Three Spirit’s range was created to mimic the desired effects of alcohol. Within its spirit substitutes, the Livener is flavoured with watermelon, guava, ginger, ginseng and green tea; mood elevator

Social Elixir is made with lion’s mane mushroom, yerba mate and damiana and is said to carry notes of dark apple and cacao; ashwagandha, willow bark, valerian, lemon balm and hops make up some of the ingredients in Nightcap. RRP £24.99 for a 50cl bottle. threespiritdrinks.com

CBD – IS IT REALLY LEGAL?

Faced with a flood of CBD products entering the UK market, in 2021 the Food Standards Agency sought to regulate their sale by requiring that producers fill in a novel food products application. Just 4,000 of the 12,000-strong list of items published in April 2022 have been fully validated, but their application gives a temporary level of assurance to retailers in the companies on it. Producers not on the list and those whose applications are ultimately rejected, will see their items removed from the market entirely.

Consult the list of CBD products linked to novel food applications at data.food. gov.uk/cbd-products/products-list

Fhirst is among the UK producers seeking to make indulgent, refreshing sodas that are also healthy. Each of the 330ml cans, which come in Ginger Mandarin, Cherry Vanilla and Passion Fruit flavours, contain neither sugar nor artificial sweeteners, and contain two billion probiotic cultures and 5g prebiotic plant fibre. RRP £20 per 12 cans. fhirst.com

Goodrays’ CBD drinks contain 30mg of the compound, as well as the recommended daily dose of Vitamin D. The range of four drinks includes Yuzu & Elderflower, Raspberry & Guava, Passionfruit & Pomelo and Blood Orange & Grapefruit. RRP £10.95 per four cans.

goodrays.com

Dragonwell Green Tea, Darjeeling and White Peony Tea without using additives or flavourings. The Kombuchas have been endorsed by some discerning palates, and feature on the low-no alcohol menus at The Fat Duck, Le Gavroche and Clove Club. Available in 750ml bottles (RRP £13) and 250ml cans (RRP £25 for a pack of 12). realdrinks.co

Jamu Wild Water was created with the idea of making sugarfree, prebiotic beverages for both kids and grown-ups. The three flavours contain 5g of chicory root inulin and ‘nourishing botanicals’: Sparkling Lemon, with Dandelion & Nettle extracts; Blood Orange, with Echinacea extract; and Raspberry, with Marshmallow root & Elderberry extracts. RRP £2.25. Trade, £1-£1.10. jamuwildwater.co.uk

DRINKS 37 June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5
It’ll elevate you and make you feel that nice feeling, but you still have your full faculties.
Chris Kazakeos, Sentia
June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5 38 Directly from Italy, stocked & distributed in the UK Importing highest quality Italian products Due to the success of our existing items we’ve added to our wine range. Contact us on 01635 744600 or visit our website to see our full range of products www.tenutamarmorelle.com

The proof is in this pudding

Devon-based artisan producer Figgy’s is

changing the way many people feel about shop-bought Christmas pudding.

IT’S FAIR TO say, mass-produced Christmas pudding can be pretty disappointing. Dry, heavy and barely worth setting aflame.

But one small producer is turning that around, with a traditional Christmas pudding that has won 20 fine-food awards to date. Their secret? Partnerships with others who share the same commitment to uncompromising quality and traditional production values.

When Joanne and Richard Evans gifted their homemade Christmas puddings to their friends and family one year, they thought little of where it might lead.

However, rave reviews and cries of “you can’t buy this in the shops”, got them thinking about whether they might have something a little bit different. After extensive taste-testing, they knew their friends were right. But it was also clear they had a challenge. How could they replicate their homemade Christmas pudding on a larger scale, without reducing the quality of the finished product?

It was easier said than done, but something the Evans have achieved with incredible success. Since they started selling them, their Christmas puddings have won over 20 fine-food accolades, including six Great Taste awards.

“The key has been never to cut corners when it comes to quality,” says Jo. “We have partnerships with some of the finest producers of their products and this is reflected in the finished puddings. It means customers come back year

after year to get their Christmas pudding from a particular retailer.”

Joanne and Richard recognised early on, that the most important ingredients in a Christmas pudding are the brandy and beer. They were determined to find local suppliers and settled on two of the finest – Somerset Cider Brandy and Hanlons Port Stout – both multi-award-winners themselves.

They’ve also refused to cut corners by buying in ready-made breadcrumbs, choosing to hand-make them using loaves from a local bakery. Californian raisins, British Bramley apples and locally prepared citrus zest and juice all enhance the quality, together with soft, succulent, naturallycoloured glace cherries and free-range eggs from a local farm shop.

By keeping overheads low, and having a rather useful background in marketing, the Evans have managed to maintain high levels of quality while offering a sensible price point for retailers and consumers alike.

“There’s no point offering the best quality product if the price makes it impossible to sell,” says Jo. “Our Christmas puddings sit in the midtop end of the range and provide a level of quality that customers will expect for the price, including beautiful eye-catching festive packaging.”

WHY CALIFORNIA RAISINS?

California raisins are 100% natural; the only elements used to produce these little gems are sunshine and mountain water.

The growers and packers in California pride themselves on their standards. Only the finest California raisins make it to market. The inspection process is also subject to audits by outside inspection services: US Dept of Agriculture, America Institute of Baking and the British Retail Consortium.

California Raisins are grown in the fertile soil of the San Joaquin Valley, within a 70-mile radius of the city of Fresno. Temperatures can stay at over 100°F (38°C) for weeks on end and the sunshine (an average of 296 days every year) play a huge part in the growing and drying of quality raisins.

Many people comment on the wonderful texture and earthy, almost chocolatey, sweet, rich taste of California Raisins. Harvested during August and September, raisins are left in the sun on paper trays on the ground in between the vines for up to 28 days. Increasingly, raisins are also being dried directly on the vines.

During drying, the sun produces intense ground temperatures which caramelise the sugars in the grapes enough to give California Raisins their distinctive rich flavour and dark blue-black colour. Once the raisins have undergone a thorough cleaning process, they are packed and shipped to over 75 countries worldwide.

www.figgys.co.uk

jo@figgys.co.uk

01395 232 576

Vol.24 Issue 5 | June 2023 39 PROMOTIONAL
FEATURE
Figgy’s
Using the best ingredients and quality preparation has gained us many awards and we are proud to have received our most recent – a Great Taste award in 2022 californiaraisins.co.uk
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CATEGORY FOCUS

Keep it flowing

As always, there’s plenty of NPD in drinks and we’ve done our best to round-up as many as possible for retailers looking to perk up their liquid offering , starting with beers, wines and spirits. For soft drinks, turn to page 45.

An exciting new direction

Tayport Distillery is rolling out new livery that will present its range of spirits as a “unified family”. The distillery describes the redesign as “an exciting new direction”, as it focuses on its connection with the local community and its use of locally grown fruits and grain. The bottles feature a new logo that portrays the iconic Larick Beacon, which has historically guided ships to Tayport Harbour. The Fife distillery is also introducing two new products: Madagascan Vanilla Vodka and Coffee Liqueur. tayportdistillery.com

Magic Dragon Brewing has conjured up two new bottled beers. Featuring Jester hops from Charles Faram, the Welsh brewery’s Jester is a pale ale with a light golden colour, tropical aromas and subtle grapefruit and mango taste. Black Tiger is a black IPA with hints of chocolate, coconut and tropical fruit. RRP £3.50; trade price £24.93 for a case of 12 x 500ml. magicdragonbrewing. com

Greensand Ridge’s latest release, Wealden Reserve, has been five years in the making. Four of those have been spent in bourbon casks, followed by a year in PX sherry casks, resulting in a dark rum with a complex spiced flavour. The carbon-neutral microdistillery finishes the 42% ABV spirit with a touch of local honey to add mouthfeel and sweetness. greensanddistillery.com

Hopical Storm is Timothy Taylor’s first canned beer. The 4% ABV sessionable pale ale is brewed using five UKgrown hops in three stages of hopping, delivering a “tropical storm” of mandarin, mango and passion fruit. RRP £3 for 440ml. timothytaylor.co.uk

Northern Ireland’s Spadedown Brewery has invested in a new 5,000 sq ft production facility in Lurgan, Co. Armagh. Kitted with three 2,400L fermenters, it can now produce 2.3m litres a year, and thanks to a new canning line it will soon be able to fill up to 2,200 cans an hour. spade.town

Whitebox Cocktails now offers the classic Whisky Highball in ready-to-drink format, with a contemporary twist. The 8% ABV canned beverage blends Whitebox’s own whisky with black tea, soda and a touch of peach. RRP £5.50 for 330ml. Trade price £2.40. whiteboxcocktails.com

Pip to pint’ cider brand Pulp has unveiled a cocktail-inspired menu for summer. Celtic Marshes – the producer behind the brand – has taken the signature flavours of Pornstar Martini, Strawberry Daiquiri, Mango Daiquiri and Cosmopolitan – and combined the with freshpressed cider to produce a 4% ABV sparkling beverage. RRP £2.99 for 500ml; trade price £21.50 for a case of 12. celticmarches.com

Together with Newton Court Cider, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall has developed a trio of organic ciders under the River Cottage label. Orchard Vintage Cider uses fruit from the oldest orchards at Newton Court; Bold Oak Cider is an oak matured cider; and Yarlington Mill Cider is named after the apple that is a favourite with cider makers. RRP £3.10 for 50cl; trade price £2.05 from Vintage Roots. vintageroots.co.uk

Orkney Vodka is a 41.5% ABV grain vodka, crafted in small batches in Orkney Gin Company’s family distillery. The spirit is distilled eight times in an eco-still - with each distillation said to yield a deeper, smoother and purer spirit. RRP £36 for 70cl. orkneygincompany.com

Salcombe Rum’s fourth release is Blackstone - a triple distilled peppered black rum with flavours of caramelised orange peel, pink peppercorns and Szechuan pepper. The 40% ABV single estate rum is produced at the waterside distillery in South Devon; RRP £40 for 50cl.  salcombegin.com

41 June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5
alcoholic beverages >>

alcoholic beverages

Ex-buyer Lizzie Mackirdy has launched a new start up on the Isle of Bute, after spotting a gap in the market for small batch cocktails with Scottish ingredients and a contemporary twist. Bramble with Gooseberry and Old Fashioned with Sea Tangle are the Braw brand’s inaugural products. Both are available in 200 and 500ml serves, with respective RRPs upwards of £14 and £25. brawliquorclub.com

Devon-based bottled cocktail company Bar Buoy has crafted a premixed version of on-trend tipple Espresso Martini, using TORS English vodka and an organic cold brew espresso from local coffee roaster Owens. The 15% ABV cocktail is available in four serves: Cabin (10cl), Captain (20cl), Sailors (50cl) and Crew (1L), with respective trade prices of £3.10, £4.95, £10.95 and £19.95. barbuoy.co.uk

Mee Blueberries is laying claim to the first blueberry sparkling wine to be made with British blueberries. Blueberry Bliss Sparkling Wine, which launched in March, is made with berries grown in the Nene Valley. It is described as a “light and elegant” sparkling wine that can be enjoyed with white fish or canapés. RRP £20; trade price £15.40. meeblueberries.co.uk

A fusion of Japanese flavours and English spirits, Spirit of Japan – a new range from The Wasabi Company –brings genuine innovation to a crowded market.

The range, which was previewed at the Farm Shop & Deli Show in April, is a collaboration between English Spirit Distilleries and The Wasabi Company.

It blends ingredients that are rarely found outside Japan with small batch spirits. In Sansho Spiced Rum (RRP £38 for 50cl), smoky soy and sesame provide the light oak and tobacco flavours usually found in an aged rum; Shiso Gin (RRP £36 for 50cl) combines purple shiso leaves with English botanicals; Wasabi Vodka (RRP £36 for 50cl) offers up plenty of wasabi heat, and Yuzucello (RRP £29 for 50cl) is a “refined” Japanese take on limoncello. thewasabicompany.co.uk

Scottish brewer Innis & Gunn will launch five limited edition beers this year. The first, available now, is Islay Whisky Cask – a 7.4% Scottish red ale with hallmark Laphroaig aromas of chocolate and spiciness, and hints of heather and coffee. This limited edition comes in a gift carton, featuring a commission by contemporary Scottish artist Scott Naismith. RRP £6 for 330ml. innisandgunn.com

Giol, an established organic estate in Italy’s Veneto region, has launched two new 11% ABV sparkling wines. Luisa Rosé Merlot Rosato Frizzante (RRP £13-14; trade price £7.99) has plenty of soft red cherry and strawberry flavours, while Black Label Spumante Brut Prosecco (RRP £16-17; trade price £10.15) is drier in style with wildflower and peachy aromas. Both are available via Vintage Roots. vintageroots.co.uk

Using traditional cider pressing methods in the heart of Somerset, Maiden Mill claims to have recreated the full-bodied flavour of full-strength ciders in two 0.5% ABV options. Maiden Mill Voyage is a golden medium cider with sweet green apple notes, whilst Maiden Mill Flyer is a crisp cloudy medium dry cider. RRP £2.89 for 330ml. maidenmill.co.uk

Maidstone Distillery has invented an indulgent digestif that celebrates Kent’s toffee-making heritage. Sharp’s Toffee Liqueur is named after Edward Sharp, a real life ‘Willy Wonka’ who, back in 1912, made Maidstone the toffee manufacturing capital of the world.

Select botanicals are traditionally distilled to create a base of delicate spice with hints of orange, vanilla and butter, which is then blended with a secret toffee recipe.

Sharp’s soft-launched in the local area during the pandemic, but the distillery says that 2023 is the year it is taking the liqueur nationwide. To this end, the company has secured wholesaler listings with Page & Sons, Master of Malt and Drink Warehouse. Sharp’s is available in a variety of sizes, from 5cl (RRP £5.50) to 70cl (RRP £30).

themaidstonedistillery.com

Premium RTD brand Shake ‘N’ Serve Cocktails (SNS) has introduced a Piña Colada, a Singapore Sling and an Espresso Martini to its range. Currently only available for catering or in single-serve bottles, the Espresso Martini will be sold in a 70cl format from the summer. snscocktails.com

To create its latest expression, Wyrd infuses fresh New Forest rhubarb in its hand-distilled dry gin for one month before sweetening the spirit slightly. It says the result is a smooth, tangy and fruity 40% ABV gin that can be sipped neat or with a mixer. RRP £36 for 50cl. wyrdspirits.com

Following the launch last July of its flagship Western Star London dry gin,  Taunton-based Mainline Spirits has introduced Wild Berry and Sloe variants in 5cl, 20cl and 70cl bottles. Western Star is a 40% herbaceous gin with flavours of red berry tea. RRP £34.75 for 70cl. mainlinespirits.com

42 June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5
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Vol.24 Issue 5 | June 2023 43 Filling Equipment Increase your filling output & efficiency Semi-auto machines to fully automatic lines For still, carbonated & bottle-conditioned drinks Bottle/pouch/BiB fillers & craft canning lines Carbonators, chilling systems, etc. also supplied Ongoing support from our team of [UK] Engineers&      www.vigoltd.com • sales@vigoltd.com • @VigoLtd Call us on 01404 892 100 For bottles see www.rawlingsbristol.co.uk Call or email for more information beer@magicdragonbrewing.com 01978 781675 INTRODUCING 2 NEW BEERS TO OUR RANGE AWARD WINNING BEERS FROM NORTH WALES Eyton Gold Green One Old Magic
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alcoholic beverages

Jiddler’s Tipple has put its own twist on a fruity New England style hazy IPA by adding apricot to “push the fruity vibes to the max”. Pitched as the perfect summer chug, this 3.8% ABV IPA is a marriage of apricots and a new hop blend that is said to showcase “oodles of stone fruit”. RRP £2.99 for 330l; trade price £1.58. jiddlerstipple.com

Virgin cocktail brand Mavrik has added two new flavours to its line-up: the Passion Star Martini, inspired by the UK favourite and a take on the wellknown coffee concoction that is the Espresso Martini. Both recipes are nitrogen-infused to produce a velvety texture and expanded bouquet of flavours and aromas. RRP £11.80 for a pack of four 200ml cans. mavrik-drinks.com

Crumbs Brewing is claiming a world first with its latest beer - a “curry house” lager brewed using wonky and surplus naan bread.

For the last five years, the Surrey-based business has been brewing a range of beers using unsold loaves from its local bakery. As well as helping fight the growing problem of food waste (bread is the second most wasted food in UK households), the brewery says it is motivated by a desire to ensure the character of the bread is reflected in the beer. Zesty sourdough, for example, comes through in its pale ale, while its ruby ale gets its taste from rice and spicy rye. In Naan Laager, it is the nigella seed – a key ingredient in most naan breads – that gives the beer a refreshing, almost floral finish. RRP £2.50 for 330ml; trade price £1.43. crumbsbrewing.co.uk

Newcomer Lucela’s says its goal is to be the best chocolate rum in the UK. The company hand blends its rum down to 20% ABV, creating a chocolate spirit that is smooth and drinkable on its own or can be mixed into cocktails. The rum is also vegan-friendly, lactose free and dairy free. RRP £30 for 700ml; £22.50 for 500ml; £6 for 50ml. lucelas.co.uk

Real, cold brew tea

Heartsease Farm has grown its sparkling pressé range with the addition of two new summer flavours. Apple & Rhubarb and Apple & Pear both blend British fruit with Radnor’s own spring water, sourced from boreholes just minutes from the production line. RRP £1.69 for a 330ml can; £1.99 for a 330ml glass bottle and £2.99 for a 750ml glass bottle. radnorhills.co.uk

Iced tea brand Kaytea has moved from glass to aluminium and created a new flavour.

White Peach lands in a slimline can this month, using green tea as a light and refreshing foil for delicate white peach. RRP is £1.60-1.80 for 330ml.

With its focus on real cold brew tea, Kaytea is said to occupy a space in the market between “bland sugary pop and overtly worthy functional brews”.

kaytea.co.uk

Herdwick Distillery has blended its flagship dry gin with its handcrafted strawberry syrup and a hint of basil and mint to create Strawberry Yan Gin.

The combination of the distillery’s small-batch gin – which is infused with a bouquet of more than 10 botanicals – and strawberry, make for a gin with bold flavours and a fragrant aroma, says the Lakes distillery.

The 40% ABV gin comes in a strawberry shaped 20cl glass bottle - the ideal gift for “that person who is ready to hike up the fells and enjoy the view with a cocktail in hand or for taking on a picnic or to parties with friends”. RRP £19.95; trade price £12.30. lakelandartisan.co.uk

Oloroso Sherry Cask Edition is the latest small batch release from Angels’ Nectar, available as a limited edition. Distilled in Highland Perthshire, this 46% single malt has been matured for six years in former sherry casks. RRP £60 for 700ml. angelsnectar.co.uk

Fever-Tree continues its conquest of adult soft drinks with the launch of Sparkling Cloudy British Apple with a Twist of Garden Mint. Dabinett apple - a variety of cider apple with a tart bittersweet taste - is combined with sparkling water and garden mint. RRP £2 for 500ml. fever-tree.com

OHMG’s magnesium-infused sparkling waters are now made with spring water and presented in plastic-free cans, as the company progresses with its B Corp application. The relaxation drink brand has also added Waitrose to its list of stockists. RRP £1.99. ohmgwater.com

45 June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5
soft drinks

Vauxhall kombucha brewery MOMO has joined forces with Caravan Coffee Roasters to develop a coffee kombucha. The beverage marries unfiltered organic kombucha with cold brew Gesha coffee, to produce a flavour profile that is reminiscent of cold brew and tonic, with its fruity, zesty flavour and rich coffee aromas. RRP £4.50 per 330ml bottle). momo-kombucha.com

After trialing the new flavour at festivals and markets during 2022, Gmix has launched a strawberry variety of its drink. It combines fresh strawberries with the original recipe of ginger, lime, honey and water, originally developed as a soother and voice preserver for the founders, who are ex-professional singers. RRP is £2.50 for 250ml. Trade Price: £1.60 gmixjuice.com

London start-up Bemuse has reimagined mead, the world’s oldest alcohol drink, to create a sparkling, non-alcoholic, low-calorie drink for modern tastes. The canned range includes four flavours, which pair unusual ingredients, such as tarragon and cardamom, with more familiar honey and hops. RRP £3.50 for 330ml; trade price £1.70.

Last month saw the introduction of two new flavours – Original Brut and Wild Raspberry Rose – in a new Champagne style bottle format, pitting Bemuse against low and no alcohol wines and no secco. RRP £12; trade price £5.10.

Bemuse has committed to donating 2% of its revenue to support the country’s dwindling bee population, the climate and the environment.   bemusedrinks.com

Nuisance Drinks, a brand born out of foraging ‘nuisance’ nettles during lockdown, has evolved its range with the launch of two new sparkling botanicals that celebrate the wild side of nature. Pink Grapefruit & Basil and Rhubarb & Ginger are both low in calories, contain no artificial sweeteners and have an RRP of £19.99 for 12 x 250ml cans. nuisancedrinks.co.uk

Saicho is a new single origin sparkling tea brand that is pitched as a nonalcoholic alternative to wine and Champagne. Jasmine Sparkling Tea is a green tea from Fuding, China; Hojicha Sparkling Tea is a roasted green tea from Japan; and Darjeeling Sparkling is a black tea grown in the foothills of the Himalayas. RRPs start from £4.99 for 200ml and £17.99 for 750ml.

saichodrinks.com

Raise a glass of bubbly

Luscombe’s Limited Edition Rose & Cherry Bubbly was created especially for the Coronation of King Charles III. The gently sparkling drink balances the sweettartness of cherries with floral notes of the rose (which feataures on the Coronation emblem), and is naturally sweetened with muscat grape juice and finished with Sicilian lemons.  Rose & Cherry Bubbly joins Strawberry Bubbly, Damascene Rose Bubbly and Wild Elderflower Bubbly in the Devon producer’s portfolio.  luscombe.co.uk

HOLOS Kombucha has added an elderflower variant to its chilled range, giving its stockists an accessible summer flavour that is underpinned by a clear social purpose.

As well as delivering floral refreshment with this flavour innovation, HOLOS has made it its mission to help survivors of slavery. The company employs survivors of slavery in West Sussex and London in partnership with local anti-slavery charitable referral partners Orchards and Caritas Bakhita House. The company also set aside 25% of its original founders’ shares to create The HOLOS Foundation - a charitable body currently in set-up phase with trustees, focused on rehabilitation for survivors of modern slavery and human trafficking in the UK.  RRP £2.60; trade price £1.85. holoskombucha.com

Biona enlarged its ‘functional’ fruit juice range last month with the launch of an organic prune juice made only from prunes and water. It says the naturally sweet and tart elixir is rich in antioxidants and vitamins. RRP £8.79 for 750ml. biona.co.uk

Having exhausted the possibilities with lemonade, Hullabaloo has moved into the apple juice space. The launch is a logical development for the brand, given its location in Somerset, which allows the juice blend to be farm-pressed from four English apple varieties. RRP £2.50 for 250ml. hullabaloos.co.uk

Franklin & Sons’ Brewed Ginger Beer is sporting a new look as a part of redesign of the brand’s soft drinks range. The classic drink blends ginger root, lemon and malted barley with sparkling water, delivering warmth without being overly sweet. Trade price £0.90 for 275ml.   franklinandsons.co.uk

46 June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5 soft drinks

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Vol.24 Issue 5 | June 2023 47 FROZEN
hello@ohmgwater.com www.ohmgwater.com ohmgwater 0 SUGARS 0 CALORIES 0 SWEETENERS
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June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5 40
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Down on the Chilli Farm

In 2021, Amrit and Jenny Madhoo took on the South Devon Chilli Farm. Adopting an if-it-ain’tbroken approach, they’re steadily building on the foundations of the established chilli producer.

What were you doing before you took on the farm?

We were based up in Aberdeen. I was a control engineer working in the multi oil and gas sector. Jenny was, and still is, a financial planner – she works at the farm two-and-ahalf days a week.

We were customers of the farm and came down to South Devon for our holidays. We saw it in the local newspaper when it came up for sale, so I quit my job, we sold our house and we went all in.

I studied agricultural science back in Trinidad, so the horticultural side of things comes naturally. Food manufacturing is brand new, but I’ve realised that none it is rocket science - the processes and procedures are an order of magnitude less than what I used to do.

Did the previous owners show you the ropes before they handed over the business?

Yes, to some extent. They sold up because they were retiring, and they had built this from scratch, so they ensured that we would do well. We had a handover period, and we have a good relationship, so occasionally I reach out to ask how they did something.

Have you made any significant operational changes since you took over?

Before, planting and selling chillies was a 20-30% part of the business. Food manufacturing was the mainstay. We’re trying to rebalance that and make it a 50:50 approach, because it’s a lot easier to manage

costs on the growing side.

At the same time, we’re looking to come up with new products.

How are you planning to put your stamp on the offering at the farm?

We inherited all the recipes developed by the previous directors. Their focus was mainly on single variety chilli sauces, say like a habañero, because when they first started 20 odd years ago, chilli sauces and fresh chillies were very specialist items in the UK.

Their sauces were informed by the market back then, and some of it was a bit Mexican, because a lot of the chillies are from Mexico and there was a lot of Tex-Mex food around at the time.

Because I’m from Trinidad and Tobago, I’m going to try and bring that influence into it now.

I’ve got several new sauce ideas and recipes but it’s whether or not we can recreate Caribbean flavours with ingredients that you can get here.

We might start with limited-edition products, because the sauce and jams market is so saturated.

We’re going to rely on our USP – which is that we are a seed-to-sauce on the farm - whereas a lot of manufacturers import chillies, or some of them buy them from us, we have the uniqueness to say to customers, come see the farm, see how the chillies are grown, everything only travels 20 metres from the polytunnels to the warehouse where it’s manufactured, bottled and jarred, right there.

Our plan is to become trendsetters with chillies. Pick a chilli, like the Scotch Bonnet, and push it.

We’re looking to do some more collaborations and partnerships to create a lot of unique products - if people are selling a product with chillies in, they’d much rather say it was grown down the road in Devon.

We’re bringing tours back in the summer and we’ve launched growing workshops.

We’ve also never had a chilli festival on site before, we’ve got the space so we’d like to have our own.

With the chocolate, we’re planning to cycle through recipes to keep things interesting. We’ve introduced new drinking chocolate flavours, we’ve got white chocolate samples coming in from one of our suppliers and we would like to introduce a chilli chocolate advent calendar.

Is there anything else in the pipeline?

We’re aiming to become SALSA certified by the end of the year, because the larger farm shops and delis want it. We might look at B Corp in the future, we’ve got a solar project on the radar for the farm, but we would hesitate to go down the organic, vegan and gluten-free certification routes – we can’t justify the price hike to use a symbol as opposed to words.

We’ve been attending RHS events, going to shows, planting plants for Monty [Don], and for an art gallery in Wales.

The goal is to get to Hampton Court and Chelsea - which is achievable. Our RHS visitors told us that the nursery is one of the best they’ve seen, which gave us the confidence to say we’re on the right track.

MEET THE PRODUCER 51 Vol.24 Issue 5 | June 2023
We want to recreate Caribbean flavours with ingredients that you can get here
Interview by Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox

Sustainable rice brand looks to independents following launch

Newcomer Nice Rice is hoping to gain a market share of rice sales in the UK – and seeking listings with independent retailers – by making sustainability a core focus.

The start-up, which is already listed nationwide with Waitrose, offers pre-cooked pouches of white and brown Basmati rice, as well as Provençal Herb and Chipotle flavours. It also sells dry white and brown Basmati in 1kg boxes.

The company was born out of what founder Fergus O’Sullivan perceived as an evident gap in the market. Struck by the realisation that rice is one of the most resource-intensive foods on the planet – requiring 5,000 litres of water to produce a single kilo and resulting in high methane emissions – he was sure there must be a better way.

In his research, he found producers farming

rice in North India according to a sustainable method called ‘alternate wetting and drying’ (AWD), whereby paddy fields are dried out during the growing season rather than permanently flooded.

By aerating the soil, the methane-emitting bacteria said to thrive in anaerobic conditions are disrupted, resulting in a 49% reduction in CO2-equivalent emissions per tonne of rice compared to the national average.

O’Sullivan explained that Nice Rice would tackle conventional rice farming’s “shocking” sustainability problem, as well as providing some much-needed innovation to the market.

“Our goal is to build the demand for a better rice industry, by connecting pioneering farmers with people looking for more sustainable ways to enjoy their food. We’re confident that our products provide better tasting rice that’s better for the planet, and we’re trying to be a better kind of business too. “But we can’t do this alone. We’re looking to work with a network of independent retailers, wholesalers and distributors that have sustainability at the heart of what they do, too. So together we can inspire people to be part of a positive change for the planet, one pack of rice at a time.” wearenicerice.com

Counter points Pasta

Food writer and former deli owner Glynn Christian offers up some category-specific conversation starters to sharpen your sales technique.

WHAT’S NEW

Market leading gherkin producer and Empire Bespoke Foods-owned brand Mrs Elswood has developed two Crunchy Vegetable pickle products to complete its offering. Each 560g jar, with or without the addition of purple carrots, has an RRP of £2.99. mrselswood.com

Plant-based producer Jampa’s set out with the mission of creating a product with the appearance, texture and taste of an actual artisan pork pie. It will soon be sold alongside a range of products including a ‘Beefy and Ale Pie’ and ‘Braised Beefy in Red Wine’. Already sold in Booths, the pies are available to the speciality and fine food retail sector through Cotswold Fayre. jampas.co

North Yorkshire granola producer Yockenthwaite Farm now sells its cereals in sustainable packaging. The widely recyclable gable top cardboard is made of wood from sustainable forests, while the inner bag is home-compostable film. RRP £5.45 and £13.99 for 465g and 1.4kg boxes. yockenthwaitefarm.co.uk

Popular RTD brand Whitebox Cocktails has created what it says is the world’s first single serve vodka martini in a can.

Tiny Tee’s Dirty Vodka Martini (34.6% ABV) pairs charcoal-filtered British wheat vodka with dry vermouth and green olive brine, which the company says “cuts through the snappy clarity of the wheat vodka to finish with a moreish, lingering salinity”.

Complementing the company’s range of canned cocktails including the Freezer Martini, Pocket Negroni, and Squeezy’s Margarita, each 100ml can has an RRP of £6. whiteboxcocktails.com

• Al dente or slightly chewy pasta is more easily digested than very well cooked, because it has been mixed with saliva when chewed.

• Al dente pasta absorbs about 1.25 times its weight of water: 100g of pasta will weigh 225g+- cooked; longercooked pasta absorbs around 1.5 times: 100g pasta will weigh 250g+-

• Oil in cooking water does not stop pasta sticking together. Pasta never sticks if it is cooked in enough water.

• Smooth pasta shapes are meant for thick but smooth, clingy sauces. Grooved, folded and twisted shapes trap thin sauces and

Oil in cooking water does not stop pasta sticking together.

sauces with lumps, clumps, vegetables, seafood and such.

• Pasta to be eaten cold should be lightly tossed in oil when steamed dry but still warm; also add garlic, citrus zest, flavoured oils, especially lime or truffle, or tomato paste at this stage, so they penetrate and flavour the pasta.

52 SHELF TALK June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5
Paley Photography This is an extract from Glynn Christian’s book Taste! How to Choose the Best Deli Ingredients, published by Grub Street
June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5 54 Since 2001 we have been importing and distributing our exclusive range of Extra Virgin Olive Oils directly from the production site We are pleased to add another great supplier to our exclusive range Apulia Blend Ltd • T/A The Olive Oil Co Unit 55 Kidbrooke Lane • London SE9 6TA 020 7740 1717 trade@theoliveoilco.com www.theoliveoilco.com PLANT-BASED SOUTH AMERICAN CONDIMENT SAUCES SEASON – DIP – DRIZZLE & TRY THEM WITH EVERYTHING! 20%off usingyourfirstorder thecode CHIMILOVE20%.Valid1st-30thJune 2023 OUR HOTTEST SOUTH AMERICAN FLAVOUR CHIMICHURRI MILD CHIMICHURRI ORIGINAL CHIMICHURRI HOT CHIMICHURRI & MAYONNAISE HELLO@CHIMI.LOVE · IG: CHIMI.UK · WWW.CHIMI.LOVE · FB: CHIMI

WHAT’S NEW

Driven by a growing consumer desire to reduce sugar consumption, organic muesli and plant-based milk brand Rude Health has introduced a duo of No Sugars drinks. The Oat product is made by extracting the flavour – but not the sugar –from oats, and the Almond milk uses just the drupes, water and carob seed flour. RRP £2.20 per litre. rudehealth.com

As the UK tentatively enters barbecue season, Kent-based Smokey Rebel is seeking listings within the independent sector for its range of rubs and spice mixes. Each of the 200g cans, which include Holy Jalapeño, Hickory Hog and Chipotle Chicken blends, has an RRP of £8.99. smokeyrebel.co.uk

Japanese fine food specialist Clearspring has introduced a caffeine-free alternative to traditional green tea matcha which it says has a mellower, smoother flavour, by virtue of being made with mulberry leaves. Grown in Kagoshima, the Organic Japanese Kuwa Matcha is sold in 40g pouches for an RRP of £8.99. clearspring.co.uk

My magic ingredient Baconizer Dorset Spice

Shed

Admittedly, I am a “lazy” cook because I have two kids at home and a business to run. For the last three years or so, Baconizer has been my go-to ingredient in the kitchen.

It’s a vegan product but it’s definitely not just for vegans (I am not even a vegetarian) because it’s very versatile. The description on the tin – “smoky bacon dust” – is pretty much spot on. It’s not like bacon bits or a spice mix, so you don’t need to cook it down.

I sprinkle it on fried eggs like a seasoning, add it to dips and stir it into risottos. It’s also really good in family favourites like Bolognese, macaroni cheese and fajitas.

You can drop it, like pinches of paprika, into meat stews and it gives a lift to roasted potatoes or kale.

There are customers that obviously feel the same as me, because it’s a product that people buy time and time again. dorsetspiceshed.com

Up Up Chocolate says its bars are world’s first certified “slave-free”

Up Up Chocolate says it is the world’s first chocolate brand to have obtained ‘slave-free’ certification throughout its cocoa supply chain.

The single-estate beans come from El Rosario, in Colombia, which are then moved to Bogotà to be processed before being shipped to the country’s Edinburgh factory to create the final product.

Each 130g single-estate chocolate bar has an RRP of £3.50, and costs £2.04 per wholesale unit, sold in cases of 15. The brand currently sells four bars: Milk Chocolate; Salted Caramel Milk Chocolate; Sea Salt & Lime Milk Chocolate and Dark Chocolate, all with an RRP of £3.50. The company is currently working with Diverse and Mahalo.

Certification is obtained via Geneva-based UN-accredited NGO, Slavefreetrade, whose vetting services involve quarterly surveys all of the workers in Up Up Chocolate’s supply chain.

The survey checks whether the company operates free from forced labour and human trafficking; is discrimination free; gives its workers access to grievance resolution mechanisms; provides a safe & healthy

workplace, as well as fair hours & fair pay; whether it gives its staff freedom of association, appropriate employment relations & written contracts; treats people with dignity and respect and finally, offers supply chain transparency.

The brand chooses to operate outside of the fair trade and organic certification schemes, because, it says, they don’t address some of the supply chain’s biggest issues.

Next, the company says it will tackle the ethical credentials of the sugar in its products, followed by the milk. upupchocolate.com

Cambrook Foods has added new listings to its range of snacks. The 65g stand packs of grab-and-go nuts come in the following flavours: Chilli & Garlic Mixed Nuts with Corn or Mixed Nuts with Chocolate Cranberries, for an RRP £1.79. Jars of Chocolate Almonds, a mix of salted dark chocolate, milk and white chocolate coated nuts, come in 110g and 220g. RRP £4.958.25.

cambrookfoods.co.uk

55 SHELF TALK June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5
KATE FORBES, Co-owner, The Trading Post
It’s a vegan product but it’s definitely not just for vegans because it’s very versatile.

WHAT’S NEW

HFSS compliance has steered KIND’s new product development in recent months, and its latest release is no different. Cashews, almonds and peanuts make up 81% of the Chocolate Chip Cashew bar, which is also gluten-free and contains no artificial flavours, colours or preservatives. RRP £1.30. kindsnacks.co.uk

Having moved its hot chocolate range into fully recyclable tins and refreshed its labels, Harry’s says it is now looking to expand its customer base beyond its home county of Cheshire. There are five varieties in the collection – all made using ethically traded ingredients such as chocolate from the Cacao Trace programme. RRP £7.50 for 300g; trade price £4.50. harryshotchocolate.co.uk

Devon-based Mr Bug is seeking new listings in independent retail after receiving an environmental award from sustainable business directory, Blue Patch. The producer vertically-farms mealworms to make four varieties of dog treats. mrbug.co.uk

Empire Bespoke unveils range of plant-based Indian meal kits

Importer and distributor Empire Bespoke Foods is launching a host of Indian meal kits and dhal mixes, with added pea protein, under its new Master Cook brand.

The 100% plant-based, additive-free Indian range, owned by Empire Bespoke Foods, has been created with the aim of bringing genuinely regional Indian dishes to UK consumers.

The four Master Cook Meal Kits range all contains pea protein pieces, in lieu of meat, and will render two servings of a dish in 10 minutes.

Delhi-Style Plant-Based Butter Chicken, Moreish Plant-Based Tikka Masala, Mildly-Spiced Plant-Based Korma, and Southern-Style Plant-Based Coconut Curry all come in 310g pouches (RRP £3.50).

Empire Bespoke said the added protein is unique and addresses a gap in the meal kit market. It hopes that these kits

will chime with the ongoing flexitarian trend and the demand for quick, nutritious meals brought on by hybrid working and the increase in lunch-at-home.

The range of four Heat & Eat Dhals – Kashmiri-Style Red Kidney Bean Masala, Bengali-Style Spicy Chickpea Masala, Gujarati-Style Two Bean Masala, and Punjabi-Style Tadka Dal – comes in 300g packs (RRP £2.50)

The Master Cook recipes have all been created in India by chefs who intimately understand aromatic spices, ingredients & traditional culinary techniques.

Empire Bespoke Foods conducted a Toluna Consumer concept test to validate the launch of these products.

It found the kits would have a wide appeal amongst ages 18-54, with the young 30s being the most receptive demographic. empirebespokefoods.com

Ice cream, pizza and baked goods all feature as Cotswold Fayre unveils frozen range

Cotswold Fayre has added the “final piece of the jigsaw” to its range with the launch of a catalogue of frozen goods – including ice cream, ready-to-bake lines and pizzas – to join its chilled and ambient ranges.

The distributor, which already has an established ambient and chilled range, will be taking orders from this month for deliveries of a range that includes pizzas and desserts from Crosta & Mollica, ice cream from Jude’s, Marshfield Farm and Hackney Gelato; and ready meals from Mindful Chef.

The most extensive roster in the catalogue comes from newly-listed brand The Original Bakers. There are several ranges of bake-athome lines – including sweet and savoury pies, sausage rolls, pasties and quiches – as well raw, frozen-to-bake formats to be sold from deli counters.

Also for counters, is a range of traybakes and round cakes from Cakesmiths, whose products are aimed at the coffee shop sector.

Among the other producers in this initial range are The Fresh Fish Shop, Bensons Chilly Billy ice lollies and SamosaCo.

“In 2016 we launched our first chilled range which has been one of our main

growth-drivers over the past few years and now in spring 2023 we are pleased to be launching the final piece of the jigsaw: frozen,” said Cotswold Fayre MD Paul Hargreaves.

He also explained the minimum order value

of a £1,000 (mainland UK), suggesting that this would be the same when ordering from a single supplier – but with Cotswold Fayre retailers could combine a multitude of producers. “Retailers want to order a variety of frozen brands without ordering loads from any one supplier. So, to make life easier for retailers, we are launching a frozen range with the ability to consolidate a growing range of premium frozen products.”

Hargeaves told FFD that move into frozen was in line with a shift in consumer attitude and demand in recent years.

“All the main retailers have reported an upsurge in frozen sales and frozen food retailer Cook reported in The Grocer that at Easter 2023, its sales were 24% up on the previous year. And Cook have been one of the main reasons that frozen is now perceived as being premium as they have rolled out into farm shops, food halls and premium convenience stores across the UK.”

The distributor, which is a B Corp and has been CarbonNeutral® since August 2019, already has plans to add more lines and brands to its frozen catalogue.

cotswold-fayre.co.uk

56 SHELF TALK June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5
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Better together

IT’S TUESDAY MORNING at the Reunion Deli and Jo Black is perched amidst a sea of laptops. Not every café owner would necessarily welcome a dozen or so homeworkers setting up camp in their premises from 9am to 4pm but, for Black, this is part of Reunion’s DNA.

“During Covid, both me and my partner were working from home – one of us on the dining room table, the other one was in the spare bedroom. It was really frustrating. We began to think maybe lots of people are feeling like this, so why don’t we get together and create a community?”

The result is Reunion, a deli, café and co-working space that has put itself at the heart of Belper’s community of independent businesses.

VITAL STATISTICS

“We did quite a lot of research about the number of small and micro businesses based here and it’s a really high percentage. We realised there wasn’t a co-working space available or any networking events. So we thought we could really meet the needs of that demographic.”

Deciding to step away from her work in the charity sector, Black and her partner Matthew Bubis visited some co-working spaces in London to get a feel for what works and what doesn’t. But they didn’t find any that reflected their own aspirations for a new venture.

“I didn’t see any with this specific model,” she tells FFD. “For us, the three things are sort of like a triangle. Whereas for others, it was predominantly a co-

working space, but then it had a little café on the side.”

The couple took the plunge and opened Reunion in 2022, taking over a split-level former Post Office building with a high vaulted ceiling, bringing a burst of colour to its refurbishment in keeping with the café’s Caribbean island namesake.

One of the couple’s first objectives was plugging themselves into Belper’s business community – hosting networking events every six weeks and building up relationships with the area’s self-employed and remote workers.

Over the past year, they have established a 50-strong community of co-workers who, every Tuesday, are welcome to work from the first-floor mezzanine space of the

Location: 23 Strutt Street, Belper, DE56 1UN

Turnover: £300k

Average spend: £16

Retail space: 83sq m

Average margin: 34%

DELI OF THE MONTH 58 June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue
5
Opened just over a year ago, Reunion Deli combines retail and café elements with a bustling co-working space. Owner Jo Black explains how she turned her lockdown experience into a thriving business in the Derbyshire market town of Belper.

building for as long as they like.

“It’s completely free and you don’t need to book. It’s just first come first served. All we just ask is that people buy a coffee or a drink or whatever.”

This, invariably, ends up being much more than just a coffee, and Black estimates that the average co-worker spend is £18 over the course of the day.

“They usually buy at least three drinks. Then get lunch, then they usually get a cake. So, actually, it does make sense for us.”

Part of the appeal for co-workers is the sociability, says Black, another is the sustainability-focused café. Offering 45 covers, and manned by a full-time head chef and two part-time sous chefs, the emphasis is on an all-day brunch and lunch with a global outlook – dishes range from smashed avocado on toast with rocket & feta to pulled jackfruit flatbread.

“Because we’ve got a lot of competition and lots of cafés, we wanted to do something a bit different. We have our flatbreads that use salami from the deli. Our huevos rancheros is inspired by when I was over in Latin America. And we’ve also got a deli breakfast which has wild mushrooms and chorizo. We just like to elevate things and give it a deli twist.”

The retail arm of the business was originally not in the business plan, but Black and Bubis decided to include it when they found their premises – previously occupied by a deli called Fresh Basil –became available.

“We thought actually, why not just combine it. We’re both really passionate about cheese and charcuterie and it just felt like the right thing to do.”

The couple struck it lucky early on. After finding out about London-based charcuterie producer Cobble Lane Cured, they got in

touch just as the company was looking to bring on new customers for their limited production of salamis and cured meats. “It was just such serendipitous timing,” says Black.

A selection of Cobble Lane Cured’s meats now forms the backbone of the deli offering – with the company’s coppa, fennel & garlic salami, soppressata and ’nduja all sliced at the counter.

Coupled with this is a popular selection of homemade sausage rolls, pasties and quiches, and a line-up of British and European cheeses. The deli works directly with Staffordshire Cheese Company and uses artisan food supplier Harvey & Brockless for the remainder, with British cheeses including two types of Sage Derby, Lincolnshire Poacher, Rachel goats’ cheese from Somerset, and Colston Bassett’s Shropshire Blue and Stilton.

For the rest of the deli offering, Black and Bubis use the Great Taste awards as a sourcing tool.

“The whole inspiration for Reunion came from Matthew and me cooking each other competitive lunches during lockdown. Using those awards was a really key part of finding cool new ingredients. So, they were actually really quite foundational in how we worked out what we wanted to stock here.”

The goal has always been to mix regional items with some more unusual international flavours. Brands like Derbyshire Tea, micro-roasters Belper Coffee Co and So Good Kombucha – a Derby-based social enterprise that supports refugees – are joined by the likes of Belazu’s chermoulah and zhoug and Blanco Nino tortilla chips.

There is also a strong leaning towards vegan products, to cater for the town’s

MUST-STOCKS

Reunion Deli Sausage Rolls

The Loaf Sourdough Bread

Cobble Lane Cured Charcuterie

Shiny Brewery Beers

Shining Cliff Gin

Holdsworth Chocolates

Millers Crackers

200 Degrees Coffee

Derbyshire Tea

Belper Coffee

Little Friends Honey – Hathersage Honey

Belvoir Farm – Organic Elderflower

So Good Kombucha

Belazu – Black Olive Tapenade

Staffordshire Cheese Co – Dovedale Blue

59 June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5 CONTINUED ON PAGE 61
Dillon Clark Photography

The Kaltbach Cave

EXPERTISE: Aged in a 22-million year old sandstone cave in Switzerland where cavemasters have been refining cheese for more than 60 years.

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TRUSTED BRAND: The Kaltbach brand gives consumers a trusted and recognisable family of cheeses to explore.

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growing number of meat- and dairy-free customers, with the roster including Sweet F.A. gluten-free and vegan cookies.

Having decided late in the day to include a retail element in the business plan, the decision has more than vindicated itself –with the deli bringing in 30% of revenue, a sum that equates to close to £100,000.

With the deli and café’s opening hours running from 8am-4pm, the couple has also begun making use of the space’s events potential, expanding from their regular networking evenings to hosting birthday par ties, baby showers and even wedding receptions.

“They work really well because we can run them in the evening and at weekends, and we’ve got an alcohol licence as well,” says Black. “It’s just an extra revenue stream for us. And because we produce all the food in the kitchen, we know that we’ve got a nice margin on that.”

A guiding principle underpinning both the café and the deli is sustainability. The

ambition is for 70% of the café offering to be sourced from within 20 miles but that is a goal they are still working towards.

The founders are also trying to eliminate single-use plastics. “That can be really difficult. Often because items are on a pallet, they will come in cardboard, but they’ll be wrapped in single use plastic. So there are some products that we still have which do that, but the majority of them, we try and make sure that you either wrapped in boxes or come in like paper packaging that’s recyclable.”

Black is also working with wholesaler Cotswold Fayre, a registered B Corp – a scheme which recognises high standards of social and environmental performance – to help improve the sustainability of Reunion’s offering. “They have a lot of the same values as us, which works well. They’re also putting pressure on producers to reduce their use of plastic.”

Does the quest for sustainability mean higher prices for customers?

“I think it does, marginally,” says Black. “But, because we are communicating values, I’d say that people usually understand that if they want a more sustainable product, it might cost a few more pennies, but it’s worth it in the end.”

Black and Bubis made sure from the beginning that Reunion’s ethos is printed pithily on a colourful blackboard by the deli’s entrance, as well as internally: “International flavours; local suppliers; protecting the planet; ethically sourced.”

With just a year’s trading under their belts, Black says the immediate goal is to continue keep growing their co-working network, and building a reputation within eco-minded, independent Belper – a town perfectly suited to Reunion’s environmental and community-orientated ethos.

“It’s really exciting – building our offer to workers who need a space like this and want to meet new people and connect with others in the town, especially after Covid.” reunionbelper.co.uk

61 DELI OF THE MONTH
The whole ins piration for Reunion came from M atthew and me cooking each other competitive lunc hes during loc kdown.
Dillon Clark Photography
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View from HQ

electric charge now and then.

But hasn’t this chaos already started? I’m no doubt simplifying it, but if AI is so bloody clever shouldn’t we be asking the bigger questions?

Can we negotiate world peace? How do we cure cancer? Can you ensure the world’s growing population eats affordable, nutritious food & drink? How about reversing climate change while removing corporate domination and promoting local economies?

If you were to believe the media avalanche, Artificial Intelligence (AI) is the answer to everything. It will run the country, perhaps the world and be able to explain why people watch Mrs Brown’s Boys.

Society is concerned that this is the beginning of a dystopia, where there will be no jobs for humans, no essays will be written by a student with a pulse, our healthcare will be neglected as the robots won’t need it (bar the odd drop of oil) and our food chain won’t function as the automatons will just need an

Get on with that, Botty Chat. Our Government has addressed an element of the above this week with their much-publicised ‘Farm to Fork’ Summit. A think-tank encompassing all those concerned with growing and selling produce in this country.

Nah. Yet again those in power are only concerned with those in power. The agenda and guest list of that meeting was a closely guarded secret. I greatly respect the work of Minette Batters and the NFU, but they cannot represent all growers. The erstwhile DEFRA food tzar, Henry Dimbleby, wasn’t even consulted after his considerable (Government-funded) work on the

The Word on Westminster

AFTER DIRE LOCAL election results for the Conservative Party, their opponents have been lifted by the prospect of winning back seats. But to what extent do Labour, Liberal Democrats and Greens start to build on their policy position and offer to the public? If we assume the next General Election will be in Autumn 2024, there is still over a year to go before the public really starts to pay attention. That’s a long time in politics.

Labour appears to have made the decision to set out more details of its policy plans.

LabourList, a political news site, has published a synopsis of

proposals developed with their National Policy Forum, which, although still under consultation, goes further than previous top line promises.

There are a few key areas that stand out for fine food retailers and their suppliers. Firstly, a commitment that government contracts will prioritise British food and protect British food standards in future trade deals. It also promises that food security and supply chains must be considered as we build new ties to the EU. The boldest moves are made in relation to the labour market. Labour is committing to deliver a “Employment Bill of Rights” within 100 days of entering office, revisiting issues shelved by the current government, such as clarification on employment status

National Food Strategy. Can you guess which retailers graced No. 10 for the summit? We’re all guessing as it’s a little clandestine. Rest assured the big four or five supermarkets would have been supping Rishi’s morning

Preparations for the World Cheese Awards 2023 are well under way. This year, the event will take place in Trondheim, Norway on October 27th and 28th.

ENTRIES OPEN 5 JUNE

coffee. No invite for the Guild, representing delis, farm shops and grocers, nor for the Association of Convenience Stores. A back-of-theenvelope calculation tells me that’s 150,000 British independent food & drink retailers, whose opinion has been ignored.

We must achieve robust and genuine industry-wide food security. Maybe that’s another question for AI. And it might solve it in years to come. But I’d rather pull out the robot’s plug and be more inclusive.

and a commitment to accounting for ‘cost of living’ in future wage calculations. We welcome moves to tackle work in the gig economy, which often undercuts the benefits, security and flexibility offered in local shops and delis across the country.

The final element of note is the commitment to work closely an “industrial strategy council” within the business community to inform policy making.

These ideas still need to be consulted on within the Labour Party and voted on at the Labour Conference later in the year, so there will inevitably be changes. But if you are curious about what a Labour government would prioritise, start here.

Edward Woodall is government relations director at the ACS edward.woodall@acs.org.uk

Cheesemakers wishing to compete can find out more about the process and make their entries here: gff.co.uk/wca

Entries close on 8th September 2023, or earlier if the maximum number is reached before the deadline. Early entry is recommended.

Sign up for our Latest Industry Advice bulletin

Each month the Guild looks to identify key information and Government resources relevant to independent food & drink retailers and producers. These updates are shared via email once a month and includes practical business advice, and notices and ideas from our community. Make sure you stay up to date and sign up here bit.ly/latest-industry-advice

If you’re a Guild member and want to lend your voice to our Town Hall initiative, we’re actively looking for retailers and producers to join our rotating committee so as to feed in opinions and ideas to help shape policy across the sector.

63 GUILD OF FINE FOOD June 2023 | Vol.24 Issue 5
Yet again those in power are only concerned with those in power
Join our Town Hall
THE GUILD TEAM: Managing director: John Farrand Special projects director: Tortie Farrand Sales director: Sally Coley Operations & marketing director: Christabel Cairns Marketing & PR officer: Jenna Morice Sales manager: Ruth Debnam Sales executive: Becky Haskett Engagement & sales support assistant: Nick Rose Data strategy & insight manager: Lindsay Farrar Operations manager: Claire Powell Operations coordinators: Chris Farrand Sepi Rowshanaei Operations & events coordinator: Zara Williams Customer services assistant: Chloë Warren-Wood Finance director: Ashley Warden Financial controller: Stephen Guppy Accounts assistant: Julie Coates Chairman: Bob Farrand Director: Linda Farrand Tel: +44 (0) 1747 825200 info@gff.co.uk gff.co.uk GENERAL ENQUIRIES Guild of Fine Food Guild House, 23b Kingsmead Business Park, Shaftesbury Road, Gillingham, Dorset SP8 5FB UK Guild of Fine Food supports independent retailers and producers. Join us today. gff.co.uk/join
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