FFD March 2012

DELI OF THE MONTH 51

The Village Stores, Walthamstow

MARY QUICKE 24 ‘Women want to be seduced and allured on our way to pleasure, not beaten up!’

COTSWOLD FAYRE 17

Paul Hargreaves: ‘All my friends say last year was like running in treacle’ March 2012 · Vol 13 Issue 2

CHARCUTERIE SPECIAL How new British producers are creating fresh interest in premium meats CHEF’S SELECTION 46 Why fish fiend Mitch Tonks wouldn’t be without Urbani dried porcini mushrooms, Forum wine vinegar or South Devon Chilli Farm’s Serrano sauce

RETAIL DESERTS 4 How empty stores are killing the shopper-appeal of high streets

NEWS CHEESEWIRE FARMHOUSE CHEDDAR SOFT DRINKS CHARCUTERIE FARM SHOP & DELI SHELF TALK DELI OF THE MONTH

4 19 23 29 36 43 45 51

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What’s new this month:

Opinion

The Fair Pay Network (FPN) might not agree. Its report, Face the Difference, researched supermarket pay levels and, even accepting most BOB FARRAND FPN patrons and ambassadors lean some distance to the left of Mr Cameron, it is disturbing reading.

Eighty-six percent of supermarket I’m worried about David. Not employees interviewed are not paid Beckham, he’s busy sucking up to the the London Living Wage of £8.30 per Olympic committee in the hope of hour or, outside the Capital, the UK getting a game this summer. No, I’m Living Wage of £7.20. Fifty-six percent worried about David Cameron. don’t have full-time contracted hours He’s a properly brought-up chap, and, overall, the average contracted expensively educated, has never hours per employee is needed a proper job 27.7 per week. Nearly and clearly has no 5,000 new jobs two-thirds of workers money worries, and sounds encouraging have increased their yet he’s a philistine personal borrowing in when it comes to until you consider the past 12 months. fine food. He loves how many offer a So Mr Cameron, supermarkets. living wage 5,000 new jobs Tony and Cherie sounds encouraging Blair are both until you consider how many are fulllawyers. Money, not food, was always time, how many offer a living wage their primary concern. Brown was and how many of those employees too tight-fisted to pay more than 50p you will need to supplement with for a frozen chicken and probably benefits so they can pay their rent stuffed himself full of deep-fried Mars and feed their kids – benefits partbars before leaning on the dispatch funded by your 5.6% increase in box. But with Cameron, never mind business rates. years at Eton scoffing over-boiled And if you need any further vegetables and spotted dick, you evidence how low down the pecking sensed a spark of hope. Maybe he’d order food sits in this country, marvel empathise a little with those who care at last month’s news that LOCOG, about fine food. the London Olympics Organising Not according to fellow Old Committee, has finally got around to Etonian and former adviser Zac planning a British food festival for the Goldsmith, who claims the PM has 2012 Games. Sadly, because the two failed to address “a situation where main sponsors have virtually exclusive banks have grown too big to fail and rights to limit your fine dining inside a single supermarket controls nearly a the Olympic Park to McDonald’s and third of the retail market and distorts Coca Cola, you’ll have to walk a policy… and industrial scale agricomfortable mile from all the running business is tearing up the planet”. Mr and jumping to experience it. Surely Cameron recently described Asda’s David, that’s not LOCOG, it’s NOCOG. announcement of 25 new stores, three new depots and 5,000 new Bob Farrand is publisher of Fine Food jobs as “a real boost for the economy Digest and national director of the and for people seeking jobs”.

Guild of Fine Food

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EDITORIAL editorial@finefoodworld.co.uk Editor: Mick Whitworth Assistant editor: Michael Lane News editor: Patrick McGuigan Art director: Mark Windsor Editorial production: Richard Charnley Contributors: Lynda Searby, Clare Hargreaves

ADVERTISING advertise@finefoodworld.co.uk Sales manager: Sally Coley Advertisement sales: Becky Stacey, Gavin Weeks Published by Great Taste Publications Ltd and the Guild of Fine Food Ltd Managing director/FFD publisher: Bob Farrand Director/FFD associate publisher: John Farrand Director/membership secretary: Linda Farrand Marketing & circulation manager: Tortie Farrand Administrators: Charlie Westcar, Julie Coates Accounts: Stephen Guppy, Denise Ballance

GENERAL ENQUIRIES Tel: 01963 824464 Fax: 01963 824651 info@finefoodworld.co.uk www.finefoodworld.co.uk

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Guild of Fine Food, Guild House, Station Road, Wincanton, Somerset BA9 9FE UK

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Fine Food Digest is published 11 times a year and is available on subscription for £40pa inclusive of post and packing.

Printed by: Advent Colour, Hants, UK © Great Taste Publications Ltd and The Guild of Fine Food Ltd 2012. Reproduction of whole or part of this magazine without the publisher’s prior permission is prohibited. The opinions expressed in articles and advertisements are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher. The publisher cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or illustrations.

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For regular news updates from the industry's favourite magazine visit:

www.ffdonline.co.uk Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012

3

fine food news Deli owners fear downward spiral as empty units reduce the pulling power of town centres

Reports highlight risk of half-empty high streets

Government seeks blueprint for better town centres

Jonny Abbas/Dreamstime.com

Perthshire in Aberfeldy, told FFD that several shops stood empty in the small town. “It has a big effect on the overall atmosphere and is not good for tourism,” he said. “Fewer shops mean less reason to visit.”

Added Ingredients in Abingdon is located next door to an empty shop, which was formerly an independent supermarket. “It’s old and bedraggled and doesn’t add to the flavour of the street,” said owner Jill Carver. “It closed 14 months ago and while it didn’t affect trade directly it creates a general feeling of degradation.

The government has got to do something to force landlords to look after empty properties.”

The LDC study of 700 towns and cities showed there were big regional differences in retail vacancy rates, with Scotland, Wales and the North of England struggling in particular. A third of all shops in LDC says Britain’s 48,000 empty shops could now be a pemanent fixture Stockport are empty, while around a quarter have not been let showed that 50% of shop

By PATRICK McGUIGAN in Nottingham, Paisley and leases are coming up for Delis trading on high streets blighted Newport. renewal by 2015 and that by empty shops have called for “The stable top-line retailers in badly hit areas urgent action, after new research rate hides the significant are likely to walk away predicted that town centre vacancy breadth of town centre from stores when given rates will worsen in the coming years. vacancy rates up and the opportunity to get out Two new reports published last down the country,” said of contracts. month painted a bleak picture for LDC director Matthew While farm shops are retail vacancy rates in the UK. One, Hopkinson. “The odds are largely protected from the Allan Ritchie: from the Local Data Company (LDC), stacked against a positive issue because of their rural ‘Fewer shops showed that average vacancy rates in take-up of shops and, as locations, delicatessens are means less town and city centres in Britain stood reason to visit’ such, the new reality of starting to feel the impact at 14.3% in 2011, with some areas 48,000 empty shops is of empty shops on the struggling with much higher rates. here to stay unless an alternative use high street.

Meanwhile, research by property or purpose can be found.”

Allan Ritche, owner of Fields of consultancy Jones Lang LaSalle

High vacancy rates: what needs to be done? businesses in certain areas for the see a ❛Independent ❛I’d rather first year of trading. It would help retailers, shop covered up them get on their feet and stay in wholesalers and with posters than business longer. producers should let out for next-to❜ get together nothing on three to use empty window space to showcase products.

It would mean retailers could carry a much larger range of products and producers could get greater exposure. The supplier would provide one or two of each product for free, the retailer would take the order and it could be shipped direct from the producer.

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Jill Carver, Added Ingredients, Abingdon on Thames

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March 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 2

month leases. You see these pop-up clothes shops and cafés come and go and the area gets the wrong kind of reputation.

Gary Anderson, Anderson & Hill, Birmingham

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We want to be on the main high street and there are several empty units there, but rents and rates are far too high. Landlords need to be more realistic and the government should also scrap rates for new

Sally Stay, Primrose Deli, Isle of White

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The government should keep down the cost pressures it is responsible for. Most urgently, it should reduce the 5.6% business rates increase it plans to impose in April.

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Stephen Robertson, director general, British Retail Consortium

Mary Portas will lend her backing to 12 ‘Town Teams’ Mary Portas and Local Government Minister Grant Shapps have launched a competition to choose 12 towns to become ‘Portas Pilots’ with the winners benefiting from a share of £1 million to help turn around their “unloved and unused” high streets.

The cash incentive is being offered to those towns that come up with the best high street blueprints in a move that follows the publication of Mary Portas’ High Streets Review for the government.

"Our high streets have faced stiff competition from internet shopping, and out-of-town shopping centres – leaving them underused, unloved and undervalued,” said Schapps. “The internet is not going to go away, and so for our high streets to survive they need to offer something new and exciting.”

Taking forward the first recommendation from Mary Portas’s review, the 12 successful localities will create Town Teams, made up of the key players in their community such as the council, local landlords, shopkeepers and the local MP. As well as receiving a share of the £1 million funding pot, these teams will then the benefit from the backing of the Minister, Whitehall and Mary Portas herself as they take forward the recommendations from the review in their area.

‘Get a grip on margins,’ farm shops are advised

IN BRIEF l After beginning exports of its Duchy Originals from Waitrose brand land year, the retailer says the products are now being stocked in 25 countries including Bahrain, Canada and Japan.

Biscuits, preserves, tea and beers are all selling well with retailers such as El Corte Ingles in Spain, Loblaws in Canada and Fine Fair Foods in Bahrain.

By PATRICK McGUIGAN

Farm shop owners across the country are failing to maximise profits because they are not keeping a firm grip on margins.

That’s according to Nigel Chandler, the farm shop manager at Garsons in Surrey, who has visited shops across the UK in recent years as part of his own research and as a judge for the Farmers’ Retail and Markets’ Association (FARMA) annual awards.

“A lot of farmers have set up shops with the wrong pricing structures because they are farmers, not retailers,” he said. “The more mature farm shops have a good understanding of margins, but a lot of new people are rushing in, opening up and spending a lot of money without enough research.

“If you take 1lb of local honey, I’ve seen it on sale for £6 in London farmers’ markets, but some farm shops are selling it at £3.50. They need to ask themselves why it is so cheap. Is it because they are under intense competition or is it that they are underselling? My concern is that in many cases, it’s the latter.”

Garsons has implemented a retail management system whereby every delivery invoice is matched up with its own purchase order details,

The manager of Garsons (above), Nigel Chandler, warns new retailers are starting with ‘the wrong pricing structures’

so that any difference in price from the supplier is immediately registered and the shop’s prices can be adjusted.

“It’s taken us years to get the margins we have now. We group our price points, for example, £2.99, £3.29 and £3.49,” said Chandler.

“If the price of a jar of jam that retails for £2.99 increases by 5% we then make a decision to go to £3.29 or £3.49. We don’t have in-between price points. Sometimes it’s better to go higher so that we can absorb future price increases rather than

Farrington’s takes FARMA’s top title for second time Somerset store Farrington’s was named UK Farm Retailer of the Year for the second time at the 2012 UK Farm Retail Awards from FARMA. The retailer, whose general manager Paul Castle is an FFD columnist, first won the award in 2004, but since then has added a café extension and a new butchery counter, plus a pop-up garden centre and new retail space around the farm shop for local businesses.

Andy and Tish Jeffery, who collected the award sponsored by Lakeland Computer Consultancy Services, said they were “thrilled” to win once again and thanked all their staff for helping them succeed.

Other winners included Cwmcerrig Farm Shop & Grill in Carmarthenshire for Best Farm Retail Newcomer, Hampshire-based Newlyns for Best On-Farm Butchery and the Organic Farm Shop in Gloucestershire, which was named Environmental Farm Retailer of the Year.

Fodder, the Yorkshire Agricultural Society’s flagship food hall in Harrogate, won the

keep changing prices. Customers prefer stable pricing.”

Margins at Garsons vary depending on the category, but are usually between 40-44%. “When I hear farm shops aiming for 25%; it’s just not enough when you take into account wage costs and all the other overheads,” he said.

Chandler first outlined his concerns about farm shop margins at the 2012 FARMA Farm & More conference in Edinburgh, which was also the venue for the organisation’s annual awards (see story below).

Andy and Tish Jeffery of Farrington’s in Somerset

l Hopley House Farm Shop and Tearoom in Cheshire has closed down. Owner Trish Ryan said: “The pressures, responsibilities and red tape of being a successful business have begun to take their toll and have overshadowed the enjoyment we take out of it.” The farm will instead focus on its bed and breakfast and homemade cakes businesses. l Hay-on-Wye deli owner Alex Valentine of the Hay Delicatessen has joined other stores in campaigning against a deal between the local council and developers to build a Tesco supermarket on the site of an existing school in return for a new school being built nearby. Over 500 people met last month to discuss alternatives to the plan. l Maldon Salt Company has been granted a Royal Warrant of Appointment to Her Majesty The Queen. The company is one of approximately 850 businesses to hold the accolade, which entitles it to display the Royal coat of arms on all products and literature. l The Welsh finalist in the 2011 Olives Et Al Deli of the Year competition, Leon’s Deli in Presteigne, has rebranded and changed its name to Deli Tinto as part of a long term plan to diversify. Owner Joanna Griffiths said the move would allow her to expand without any confusion with similarly named businesses. l Belfast-based producer Blackthorn Foods is planning to triple its production capacity, with new vacuum packing machinery, to meet demand for its handmade fudge in the UK and Ireland.

Fodder (below) took the judges’ special award

l Seven out of 10 UK consumers now plan what to buy before going out to do their food shopping (up from 47% in 2008), according to research carried out

by IGD. The food and grocery retail analyst also found that 46% are writing a full shopping list prior to their trip.

Judges’ Special Award. Gordon Wilson, FARMA awards judge, said: “Our awards celebrate the farm shop sector, but we wanted

too to recognise the tremendous achievements of Fodder which, in just over two years, has created an identity and category of its own.”

l For regular news updates from Fine Food Digest, visit: www.finefoodworld.co.uk/ffdonline

Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012

5

fine food news Why ‘Britishness’ is safest bet in year of celebrations

Warning over use of Olympic symbols Retailers and producers who use symbols such as the ‘five rings’ or even the word ‘Olympic’ on products or packaging risk being taken to court if they don’t get permission first.

The International Olympic Committee has a track record of rigorously protecting its copyright and has quickly cracked down on infringements in the past.

While unauthorised used of the Olympic 2012 logos would obviously land retailers in trouble, Olympic-related images, such as a torches, medals and even athletes, could also lead to problems.

“The IOC has a very strict approach, because it wants to preserve the official sponsors’ exclusivity,” said Kaisa Mattila, a solicitor at legal firm Eversheds.

Watch out for the fluttering of on-pack Union Jacks this year

sell during the Olympics and the Jubilee. “We’re putting together a brochure of chocolates, sweets, tea and drinks, which have a Union Jack theme. We’re going for things that are generically British because retailers don’t want to be left with lots of stock they can’t sell after the events,” she said.

Spelt specialist Sharpham Park is adopting a British theme with a new range of spelt bran flakes that carry Union Jack

branding. “We feel 2012 is going to be about being proud of everything that is British, including our food,” said general manager Leona McDonald. “In our own farm shop and garden we will be organising breakfast events for kids that focus on good nutrition and we will also be organising garden parties and sports days.”

Other producers offering themed ranges include Cottage Delight (see p45) and the Patchwork Traditional Food Co, which is preparing a British Classics range of patés in Union Jack livery.

figures. You don’t need a fancy EPOS system, an Excel spread sheet does the job, but you need to keep an eye on what you’re charging people and what people are charging you.

Val Berry Haley & Clifford, Leeds The other thing I wish I’d done from the start was to have a professional chef. When I took over the shop a lot of the stuff sold in the the retail side as I’ve gone along. If There had been a deli here for about café was bought in, so that’s what I could go back and talk to myself 20 years when I took over four years I continued to do. four years ago, ago. I only live 200 yards down the But having a proper I’d definitely have road, so I used to come in here all the Sales doubled in the chef means you can a word about time as a customer and spend more control quality and margins! Because first year, but I didn’t than I should. I think it was my midof my background, pay enough attention consistency, plus life crisis. I was looking for something you can innovate I did a lot of work to margins more meaningful and the deli came and the margins are on rebranding and up for sale at the right time. much better. It took refurbishing the Did I have any retail experience? about nine months for the penny to shop, which worked really well. Sales Did I heck! In retrospect that drop, but we now have two chefs, doubled in the first year, but I didn’t was an issue, but I did have food who make everything from pies to pay enough attention to margins. I experience. My degree was in home tapenade. Nothing comes out of didn’t put my prices up at all during economics and I’d worked as a food the kitchen that isn’t properly costed that time, but with commodity prices technologist for Unilever before and the improvements in margins changing I needed to reflect the going into marketing for McCain and have more than covered the extra increases I was having to pay.

Northern Foods. salary costs.

I check every invoice now and A lot of that experience has I also wish I’d understood earlier have a much closer grip on the come in useful, but I’ve had to learn

what the local market needed. It’s difficult having a deli in a big city because people can easily go to Tesco and buy things like flour, pasta and olive oil. I started with a lot of ranges that didn’t work and it’s taken me a while to figure out what to stock.

We’re quite a schizophrenic shop. During the week we do a lot of lunchtime trade, but on a Saturday people come in and stock up with olives, cheese and bread. It’s fresh food that seems to sell really well all year round, then we do a lot of gift items like chocolates and hampers around Christmas and Easter.

The only other thing I wish I’d known was how much hard work it is running a deli. I thought I would be able to work normal hours, but I don’t think I’ve ever worked this hard in my life. I probably do 12 hours a day and didn’t have a day off for the first two years, but I love it. I actually enjoy getting up in the mornings.

By PATRICK McGUIGAN

Fine food stores are well placed to receive a sales boost from the Jubilee and the Olympics this year, suppliers say – provided they get their ranges right.

Rather than stocking products specifically linked to the events, wholesalers and producers are advising delis and farm shops to play up the ‘Britishness’ of products to tie in with the Jubilee or focus on Olympic themes such as health and nutrition or international foods.

“We are not expecting demand for specific Olympics or Jubilee

branded products,” said Avril Kent, assistant brand manager at wholesaler Bespoke Foods. “However, similar to last year’s Royal Wedding, we’re expecting an uplift in sales of barbecue and outdoor eating products as people take to their gardens, parks and streets to enjoy picnics and street parties.”

At Cotswold Fayre, buyer Louise Ingram said the wholesaler had already received several enquiries about products to

If I'd known then what I know now...

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March 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 2

Interview by PATRICK McGUIGAN

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Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012

7

fine food news new openings

Opening or expanding a shop? Email details to editorial@finefoodworld.co.uk

Rhug Estate beefs up store as it bucks organic trend

By PATRICK McGUIGAN

Organic meat producer Rhug Estate is bucking the slump in organic food and drink sales by opening a £1.5m farm shop, restaurant and burger bar on its farm in Corwen, North Wales.

The 2,500 acre farm in Denbighshire has long supplied some of the country’s best restaurants with organic beef, lamb, pork and chicken, plus wild game from the wider 12,500 acre estate, but until now its retail offering amounted to a burger wagon and small farm shop.

This has now been replaced by a newly constructed 6,000 sq ft eco-friendly building and outside areas, including a 2,000 sq ft farm shop and 60-seater restaurant.

Outside, a grab-and-go burger bar is surrounded by a large patio area and children’s play area.

“We've seen really strong sales growth from our organic meat in recent years. Organic is still what people want because it is the ethical choice in terms of animal welfare, but also because you get very good quality meat,” said Rhug Estate's operations manager Craig Stubbs.

All the meat sold through the farm shop and restaurant is organic,

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March 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 2

but there is also a focus on local sourcing and non-organic speciality products. “When we look for products we go on three things.

First of all quality is most important, then we try to get organic or local,” explained Stubbs.

Welsh companies supplying

what they're saying

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We've seen really strong sales growth from our organic meat.

Organic is still what people want because it is the ethical choice in terms of animal welfare, but also because you get very good quality meat.

Craig Stubbs, operations manager

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the farm shop, which features a large meat counter, deli and beer and wine section, include Conwy Brewery, cheese-maker Caws Cenarth and Eboni ac Eifori chocolates.

The shop is only 30 miles from the new £6.4m Bodnant Welsh Food Centre in the Conwy Valley, which is due to open later this year and will house a 3,000 sq ft farm shop, restaurant and cookery school, plus food production units.

“We wouldn't see it as competition,” said Stubbs. “It's great for Welsh food to see so many good producers and farm shops doing well.” www.rhug.co.uk

Rhug Estate’s new shop features a 60-seater restaurant

what’s in store

l The farm shop stocks over 2,000 lines, including beauty products from Bathing Beauty in Ruthin, ales from Llangollen Brewery, Y Cwt Caws goats' cheese from Anglesey and pies from Tanzaro Food Company in Ruthin. Continental cheeses and charcuterie are supplied by Rowcliffe's. l Rhug has one of the largest organic farms in Wales, covering 2,500 acres. Customers include chefs Raymond Blanc, Tom Aikens and Bryn Williams. l Constructed from natural materials, such as cedar timber, local stone and glass, the farm shop and restaurant is the vision of the Estate's owner Lord Newborough. The building is powered by geothermal and solar energy, and was painted with organic paint. l Large viewing windows in the restaurant allow customers to see the chefs at work in the grill kitchen. It also offers stunning views across the farm.

Vol.13 Issue 2 路 March 2012

9

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fine food news Union Market hits the buffers West London food hall Union Market, located in a former London Underground ticket hall, closed its doors without warning in mid February after battling against low footfall for most of its short life.

More recently the retailer is believed to have been struggling with large rent payments.

The business opened in June 2010 in a Grade II listed building next to Fulham Broadway tube station. It was founded by Tony Bromovsky with backing from Odey Asset Management to fill “a big niche between farmers’ markets and mainstream supermarkets”.

Like Thorne’s (see story, right) it was originally envisaged as the first in a chain of stores.

However, since opening – with a reported fit-out cost of £1m – the business battled to increase footfall and average customer spend.

Most of its original management team, including ex Selfridges food executive Stephen Wright and former

Union Market: end of the line

Whole Foods senior buyer Aylie Cooke, left before the business was a year old.

A week before closing, Union Market announced reduced trading hours – insisting that it was only a temporary measure – as well as promoting a sale on groceries and wine on its twitter account.

new openings The Pink Pig

Scunthorpe, Lincolnshire

Back from the brink… then over the edge Brighton local food store place before I became involved Thorne’s, which only opened in the business at the end of last August with ambitious plans October, caught up with us,” said to roll out across the South of Lambe, who now expects the England, has closed down – company to go into liquidation. weeks after FFD reported on its “While we were trading rescue by a local businessman. very well through Christmas, it The shop, housed in a became quieter through January refurbished Victorian warehouse and February, as you'd expect. in the North Laine, was founded We were running up bills with by former investment banker our suppliers and I was just not Jason Hurwitz, but soon ran into willing to put them at risk again.” cash flow difficulties.

Set over four floors, fine food It was sold in Thorne's housed news October to one of its a restaurant, minor shareholders, butchery Nigel Lambe, concession and who also owns large cheese Horsham brewery counter, plus WJ King, but he bakery, produce and Back fr om the H brink was unable to wine sections. turn the business around. ❛ “The ❜ overspend on How FFD reported the the building, ‘rescue’ of Thorne’s in which took last month’s issue Interview

Afte majority sharehold r pulling smart Brigh er Nigel Lambe tells ton start-up Thorne’s MICK WHI out of cash TWORTH -flow that plan s for a chaincrisis, new chief remain firml executive and y intact ow quickly a cashflo

can upset w the best-la crisis moving took id a stairca Jason Hurwi former investm plans. It se and puttin lift over ent banke four to get his tz a good three r costly. Hurwi floors – proved g in a stylish Thorn years Country just too store and tz told FFD: Food going to restaurant e’s local food now focuse Group and “If you are go board, but Capita, off the drawin you’re going for a city centre but mainly in s his energies on g – and some see contro less than three the SMEs, challenging to have to take location month don’t do “I didn’t Sussex region. on a fruit and the busine l slip out of his hands s to property so well. have anythi any size – anythi veg ss running will ng to performing. looks great but Our Thorne’s ran out of readie as Thorn big retaile have been taken ng of it’s not opened s. he told FFD. e’s to begin do with So we rs – but by the three or a refurb last with, ” August the came in ished wareh four more are going to try great concep “It just seeme in higher than build costs the next Gardner d that put few monthcategories over expected, Street, in ouse in Upper foodie culturet – there’s such like a pressure works.”

North Laine Brighton’s and s and see as strong on cash-f The net in Bright famou what thoug district low.” on, and s Hurwitz ht it , with the Meanwhile, was tradingresult: while the I as its likeabl so I put would be really Thorne’s restaurant in the black, business some However, major shareholder. e popular, caféworking has been when things money into it ran out capital. So an a new chief by late October handed it. outsid Then, of Lambe e it had over to they approa weren’t quite executive , who alread Hurwitz turned restaurant caterer to run. owner in on track, ched me brewery y owns Horsha to “It’s still the shape and majority a deal.”

W and we our says Lambeunder the Thorn – a corpor of m came to wholesaler J King and Hove-b e’s brand, ate heavyw Nigel Lambe , “but Ahead it’s now ased run in the previously ” eight who of Augus and café being said he planne t’s launch was professionalway that we want investor the store’s largest , Hurwi operator – and by d to open by catering Small January, silent was effecti a second tz “The reality company. a Batch Coffee Hurwitz Once we’v is that store in restaurant although vely out of the Co. “Nigel 2012 busine he retains e got is extrem a single the who and up make money stake. ely difficu a small equityss, Lambe is to lt to from, unless very establishle model more acrossfive is also the With its much involve the owner chef.” and ironwoVictorian-chic brick, probably ed we can the South over Now, for in the local d rk, Thorn example, timber the next sick, the looking e’s is a gorgeo if one chef quite quicroll out food space few site that catering goes usis a years. Is contractor resources Hurwitz’s already, Lambe Nigel Lamb kly vision. It testament to to provid has the and still thinkin ground-floo includ e cover.

Thorne’s e in and take he was willing r local food es a spacious to come “chain”? g be stricke is not the first the busine a substa store, said busine ntial “If n by cashflo ss forwar Hurwi could roll didn’t think I must be meat conces cheese counte with d,” w troubl ss to it out, we shame for tz, adding ruefull some r we he says. wouldn’t y: “It’s a had, in Lambe comfort that e, and it Westdene. sion run by local and a bother,” everything me personally, having the store On the top butcher This year, into Thorn Christmas”. ’s words, “a relaxed 50-sea floor is a years.” stunning e’s for three put “refining” however, will a big uplift, “We planned be spent But fitting ter café-eatery. the concep on An Irishm got the the 150-ye to take morebut we were still having building whole model t. “Once we’ve ar-old internationalan with a Maste for purpo having can probab stock in established rs in Eve. And se – which busine on Christm 17 years we the great included It’s all aboutly roll out quite as working ss, Lambe spent a compl quickly for PepsiCo etely differe thing is, you get that people defining the catego .

Restaurants, majors includ coming ing into Bright nt demographic ries Grampian store like actually want of year.” on at that to buy in this. Some The real time a – butche perform test, he be wheth ry and cheese very well says, will er those particularly again in shoppers the are back www.thornes next few month s. foods.c o.uk

Vol.13

Issue 1 · Januar y-Febr

uary 2012

15

Keep us up-to-date with your shop news. Email editorial@finefoodworld.co.uk

La Belle Gourmande

Gourmet Pig

Fishguard, Pembroksehire

St Aubin, Jersey The Pink Pig farm shop plans to invest £250,000 in a new children's play barn, which has just received planning permission. The retailer, which celebrated its 10th anniversary last year, already has an outdoor adventure trail, but wants to build the play barn so that the business is less weather dependent. Owner Sally Jackson said she planned to invest in “cutting edge” play facilities, such as a water play area and an indoor sandpit. Construction is due to start this month. www.pinkpigfarm.co.uk

Channel Islanders can now get a taste of the rest of Britain and the Continent after the opening of a new deli in St Aubin, Jersey, which stocks products that are hard to find elsewhere on the island.

La Belle Gourmande, which has been set up by Sophie Huelin, sells a wide range of specialist food and wine from across Britain and Europe, as well as locally sourced products.

“There was a gap in the market whereby consumers wanted a fine food store that offered both the best of European food and local produce, at affordable prices in a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere,” said Huelin.

The newly opened Gourmet Pig deli in Fishguard, Pembrokeshire, plans to fill a gap for local food and good wine following the closure of several food and drink retailers in recent years. Local farmer Ray Lerwill, who owns the shop, said two butcher's shops, a wine shop and a greengrocer's had closed in the market town. “We felt there was a need that was not being satisfied by the supermarkets over 20 minutes drive away,” he said. “The Gourmet Pig creates a unique shopping experience in a market town that is getting back on its feet.”

The shop sells locally sourced cheese and charcuterie, plus wines from small producers in France, Italy, Spain, South Africa and the owner's homeland of New Zealand. www.gourmetpig.co.uk

Plans are in place to launch a food blog with recipe ideas for products in the store and the retailer is also working with local holiday firms to offer hampers and picnics to guests. www.labellegourmande.com

Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012

11

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fine food news Producers encouraged by promise of export drive

By MICHAEL LANE

Speciality food producers are awaiting more details after the release of a Government-backed strategy document that outlined measures to help them increase exports.

The Farming, Food and Drink Exports Action Plan was published in the last week of January with the aim of encouraging producers to follow in the footsteps of producers like Hawkshead Relish and Belvoir Fruit Farms. Both businesses, which have already developed export channels, feature as case studies in the document.

The plan – drawn up by Defra, UK Trade and Investment

and industry trade associations – proposes introducing a dedicated food ambassador, working to lift bans on UK meat, simplifying export paperwork and providing support for smaller firms looking to attend trade fairs.

In addition, UKTI is due to start a programme of Explore Exporting roadshows across the UK this month but a spokesman told FFD that no long-term schedule was available yet.

Barbara Moinet of Kitchen Garden told FFD small producers would appreciate any help on offer with trade shows given the logistical and financial difficulties involved.

She added: “Any help in

Alimentaria puts Spain’s finest foods on display Southern Europe’s biggest food trade show, Alimentaria, has been extended to four days for 2012 and will include a dedicated Spanish deli products section under the banner Premium.

Taking place in Barcelona from March 26-29, the biennial Alimentaria is the Mediterranean counterpart to northern Europe’s IFE (London), Anuga (Cologne) and SIAL (in Paris this September).It will bring together nearly 4,000 exhibitors from 75 countries, including a British delegation up by 60% on 2010. They include West Country cream specialist Coombe Castle, Grants Smokehouse and Fairfields Farm Crisps.

British deli buyers and distributors looking for new lines will find top-end Spanish

products in the Premium section, including Iberian meats, smoked fish, artisan preserves and caviar.

Exhibitors include seafood suppliers Ahumados Domínguez and Bacalao Giraldo, olive oil producer Hacienda Queiles and top ham producer Joselito.

The show is also focusing on emerging markets, with what the organisers describe as a “spectacular growth” in representation from Asia, and China in particular. www.alimentaria.com

exporting is welcome. When Food from Britain stopped we were missing a link. There are good intentions behind [the plan] but I don’t know if anything will come from it.”

South East Food Group Partnership managing director Henriette Reinders said she hoped to see a roadshow in her region soon, given the amount of interest in exporting. “In the South East this has always been lacking. We used to have a UKTI presence but there are not enough people on the ground.”

According to the Action Plan, just 17% of English food producers and 20% of drinks producers are currently exporting.

Barbara Moinet: ‘Any help in exporting is welcome’

Farm shop fights huge power bill Monday,” said Karl Avison. “It was a nightmare.”

After fighting the bill for over a year and spending £4,000 in solicitors’ fees, the couple finally managed to do a deal where they pay £6,300 over a year with a reduced two-year tariff.

“We reached a point where we didn’t know what to do so emailed everyone we knew and tweeted as much as we could. We got a lot of support and advice from organisations like the Guild of Fine Food, Farming in Crisis and Country Land Owners,” said Avison.

“We also got the local TV news station Look North involved and it was when they came to visit Npower started to negotiate.

“My advice to other retailers is not to get into this situation in the first place.

Make sure you read your own meter and record any visits or conversations you have with your energy supplier. If it does happen, however, you need to make as much noise as possible, which gives you some leverage.”

Cedarbarn faced a £26k bill from Npower

A Yorkshire farm shop has warned other retailers to read their own electricity meters on a regular basis after spending a “nightmare” year fighting a £26,000 bill from Npower.

Karl and Mandy Avison, owners of Cedarbarn Farm Shop near Pickering, were hit with the huge bill in October 2010 after Npower fitted a smart meter, which showed they were using more electricity than had previously been calculated, and tried to backdate charges for the previous three and a half years. This was despite the meter being read regularly during that time and the farm shop paying all its bills.

“We received a £26,000 bill on the Friday and they were going to take the money out of my account by Direct Debit on the

Membership group to plug gap for London and South East producers

By MICHAEL LANE

Producers in Greater London are among those who could benefit from a new paid membership scheme set up to support food businesses in the South East.

The South East Food Group Partnership launched the Taste South East scheme at the in the wake of public funding cuts

affecting regional food groups.

SEFGP managing director Henriette Reinders said Taste South East would coordinate meet-thebuyer and meet-the-distributor events for producers across Greater London, Oxfordshire, Berkshire, Buckinghamshire, Surrey and Sussex.

It would not overlap with food groups running in Kent and Hampshire.

“Obviously, over the last 18 months we’ve seen food groups falling by the wayside,” she said.

“Although we’ve never been a membership organisation, we’ve had quite a lot of producers reporting flat sales so we thought we would step in.”

Producers who join the group (full membership £99.99, affiliate

membership £49.99) will receive discounts on Taste South East’s events, which include training courses and smaller buyer-producer speed-dating sessions.

Reinders added: “Producers are going though tough times at the moment. We need to get them entering new markets and looking at things from a different angle.”

Vol.13 Issue 1 · March 2012

13

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March 2012 路 Vol.13 Issue 2

A promotional feature for Rowcliffe

Smoke signals All my preconceptions and prejudices have gone – up in smoke!

Talking C heese

with STEVE SMITH

A

lthough I have given up smoking cigarettes twice in my life (for three years both times) I have gone back to indulging in a low tar weed a couple or three times a day and fool myself I am not putting myself in too much danger.

It’s the same with smoked cheese in so much that, although it’s not an addiction, I occasionally have a craving for that earthy, oaky taste. There are so many smoked cheeses from all over the continent to chose from and every deli counter needs to stock one or two. I have just come from a presentation which included a new smoked cheese which encouraged me to think of this category. I liked it very much but will come back to it later.

So, to start with you have to decide whether to Applewood or not to Applewood. What a stroke

of genius it was by John Davidge all those years ago to give up sending his cheese away to be smoked and instead to develop a smoke flavouring to add to the cheese and cover in paprika – brilliant !

Now as purists we should, of course condemn the cheese but we do this at a commercial cost because we all know that we will sell 10 times more of this than any naturally smoked, hand-made cheese.

The problem I have found with smoked cheeses is that sometimes you can get an overpowering, almost aggressive flavour from the rind and the curd can become dry so it is a real challenge to maintain a supple, succulent interior.

Cheddar makers have long been experienced in smoking their cheeses and Mary Quicke’s oak smoked certainly keeps the classic cheddar creaminess and has a subtle flavour, while the smoked goats’ cheese is simply fabulous and must be tried.

The good thing about naturally smoked cheeses is that by their nature they are all rather like me – diminutive!

The obvious advantage is that you can get through them fairly quickly and minimise wastage.

Ford Farm’s Oakwood smoked also maintains a natural texture and is well balanced. I have been surprised at their Dorset Red as, although I was initially put off by the colour, it really is very approachable and had me returning to it for another taste.

The North Country has not missed out on this opportunity and the Wensleydale is particularly delicate ( I was a big fan of the smoked blue Wensleydale, by the way, and was disappointed at its demise).

Cumberland smoked is probably the creamiest cheese after its smoking process, which is very surprising considering its dark, well-marked russet coloured rind (a devil to cling wrap as I am sure you have found) which can allow it to pick up some surface mould.

So, back to the cheese I have just tasted, which is most unusual for a smoked cheese as it has a waxed coating – another thing that goes against the grain with us sticklers for

tradition. Anyway, never wanting to appear narrow minded I gave it a try and found it rather good. I asked what had happened to the rind and was advised that after smoking the cheese the rind is blended with the rest of the cheese before waxing.

Yes, the cheese is soft and creamy and not a classic cheddar texture but it has a definite smoky flavour which runs through the cheese and got the thumbs-up from all our telesales staff.

Have you guessed already that my meeting was with Snowdonia?

So, There’s your choice, do you stick to your guns and insist on only the traditional route or do you go down the contemporary avenue? It’s your call, but either way don’t forget about the success of Ilchester and John Davidge with Applewood.

Steve Smith is sales director of Rowcliffe

01892 838999 www.rowcliffe.co.uk

Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012

15

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March 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 2

258 GFF Cashflow.indd 1

14/02/2012 10:51

fine food news

‘I wouldn’t mind if the recession carried on’ Interview

With 30% growth in 2010 and a respectable 20% last year, Cotswold Fayre boss Paul Hargreaves would be happy with more of the same in 2012. MICK WHITWORTH reports.

T

hey ran a staff competition in the Cotswold Fayre office last year – not for racking up the biggest sale but for dealing with the smallest credit claim. The winner, according to MD Paul Hargreaves, credited 61p for a can of chickpeas.

“All my friends, whatever industry they’re in, say last year was like running in treacle,” he tells FFD. “Everything was hard work. People were on the phone asking for tiny credits they wouldn’t have bothered with before.

“We’re just coming to the end of our financial year and we’ll be up about 20% on sales. But I’m sure we had to make 40% more phone calls.”

But that prize-winning 61p credit note didn’t make too much of a dent in the Reading-based fine food distributor’s turnover, currently running at around £5.5m. With the 20% sales hike in the 12 months to March 2012 coming on top of 30% in 2010-11, Hargreaves says he’s feeling “encouraged” compared with this time last year. “It’s selfish to say it, but I wouldn’t mind if the recession carried on, because our numbers are higher.”

One contributor to those healthy figures has been the addition, in the past two years, of a sales presence in the north of England, taking the once-regional Cotswold Fayre closer to true national status. Business has also benefited, says Hargreaves, from more speciality food suppliers focusing on production and putting the cost and hassle of logistics onto a wholesaler. Average order sizes have gone up from a Cotswold Fayre catalogue that now includes around 110 year-round brands plus various seasonal additions.

More generally, he points out, premium is the place to be right now. “Waitrose is doing well. Lidl is doing well. It’s the people in the middle that are struggling.”

Hargreaves developed Cotswold Fayre in the 1990s to supplement

Paul Hargreaves: Average order sizes have risen as Cotswold Fayre has built its brand list to well over 100

his income as a charity worker site since 1999 – from which it in London. His first brand was delivers direct to a patch stretching Cotswold Meringues (his in-laws’ west to mid-Devon and north to business) then he picked up other Birmingham, with deliveries to the lines from the region – including rest of the UK and the Irish Republic Bottlegreen in the days before it going out by third-party transport. was in every multiple. He formalised There is currently around the business in 1999, moving £350,000 of stock in the Reading from the capital to a small unit in warehouse, and the total was Reading, at a period when farm double that pre-Christmas. Even shops were starting to take off. “It that didn’t come close to filling was being in the right place at the the available space. To move the right time,” he says. business forward, Cotswold Fayre One of his first clients was will this year focus its promotional Highclose Farm Shop in Hungerford, efforts on the few dozen key brands now Cobbs for which it is either Farm Shop, the preferred or Waitrose is doing where he was exclusive wholesaler told there were well. Lidl is doing – names like Drink no proper Me Chai, Firefly well. It’s the people wholesalers tonics, Bear nibbles in the middle that focusing on and Belvoir Fruit are struggling British food.

Farms. “It’s the 20 Paul Hargreaves Hargreaves set or 30 brands you out to fill that see scrolling across gap, and Cotswold Fayre continues our website,” says Hargreaves, “like to focus mainly on goods from Belvoir, who work really closely Britain and Ireland – all ambient – with us and direct their marketing despite adding a few imported lines, to help us, not just to help such as the newly listed Pelagonia themselves.” range of Macedonian preserves and Last October FFD published antipasti. comments from Olives Et Al’s Giles Last August the firm moved to Henschel and others suggesting a new warehouse on a Reading some wholesalers hinder sales by industrial estate – it’s fourth preventing producers talking direct

❛

❜

to their retail stockists. At the time, Hargreaves rebuked us fiercely via his regular blog for, as he saw it, tarring all wholesalers with the same brush.

Speaking to FFD this month, he’s in a more conciliatory mood, saying it’s true that a few “old fashioned” wholesalers have been over-protective with their sales information – sometimes not even telling suppliers where their products are stocked.

“Some were worried that they might jeopardise their position and that suppliers might go [to retailers] direct. But that’s never going to happen. In fact, more and more producers are realising that using two or three wholesalers can save them a salary in-house, so there’s been a drift towards using us more.”

Going further, he suggests suppliers need to decide on their preferred route to market and stick with it, because continuing to sell direct can undermine the efforts of their wholesalers.

“Either you do everything direct, which is a perfectly valid strategy Tracklements have done it for years – or you just use wholesalers. I think people have realised they can’t really do both.” www.cotswoldfayre.co.uk

Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012

17

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March 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 2

cheesewire Cheyney set for launch of young ‘unctuous’ St Jude

By PATRICK McGUIGAN

One of the co-founders of Hampshire Cheeses – famous for making Tunworth – has launched a new business producing a lactic cows’ milk variety called St Jude Julie Cheyney, who founded the Tunworth maker with Stacey Hedges, left in 2010 and has now set up White Wood Dairy.

She is due to begin production of the Saint Marcellin-style St Jude this month at a unit on Manor Farm in Alton, Hampshire.

Cheyney said: “There is no other cheese like St Jude being made from cows’ milk in Britain at the moment and I aim to make her delicious – one that can be eaten at a week old, young and fresh, or a month old, more broken down, unctuous and stronger.”

The cheese is made with unpasteurised milk sourced from local farmer Sam Martin of Wallop’s Wood Farm, Droxford, who farms a cross between Holstein, Friesian, Swedish Red and Jersey cows.

Drawing on farming techniques from New Zealand, the herd grazes outdoors for as long as possible, with the cows only brought in for a few months of each year.

Cheyney learned about the farm when Sam Martin’s wife, Anna, attended one of her cheese courses at the School of Artisan Food in Nottinghamshire.

Once the milk is delivered to the production unit, a French starter culture is added and it is left to

Le Grand Fromage Bob Farrand

“Cheese does most gloriously reflect the multitudinous effect of earthly things, which could not be multitudinous did they not proceed from one mind.”

These Hilaire Belloc words written a century ago came to mind last month upon reading of the tragically premature death of Swaledale cheese-maker Mandy Reed. A single mind reflected in glorious cheese.

We imagine cheese-makers to be silent and taciturn, the result perhaps of solitary hours nurturing curd. But artisan producers are a different breed. Their lives are tinged with uncertainty, they know not the outcome of each day’s labour. The element of chance is

ON A HIGH: Mark and Sarah Hardy (centre) of High Weald Dairy collect their award for Sussex Food Producer of the Year at the Sussex Food & Drink Awards. The Horsted Keynes business produces cheeses from its own organic cows’ milk, including the unpressed Ashdown Foresters, as well as sheep’s and goats‘ milk varieties. www.highwealddairy.co.uk

Heler to make ‘artisan’ range for Tesco Julie Cheyney: her St Marcellin-style ‘baby’ St Jude (inset) is due soon

acidify over 12 hours before animal rennet is added.

“This slow, gentle way will nurture the flavours in the milk,” Cheyney said. “Sam’s cows are mainly fed on grass and it’s this sweetness that I hope to encourage to come through. I aim to build on the genetic influences from the cows’ breeding and the fact that they are naturally producing their milk from pasture.”

As well as teaching at the School of Artisan Food, Cheyney has also worked as a consultant and with Neal’s Yard Dairy since she left Hampshire Cheeses.

“Throughout my transition, from being one half of Hampshire Cheeses to now, I have been

supported by Neal’s Yard Dairy,” she said. “I have worked there the last two autumns in the run-up to Christmas. Owen Bailey, the head affineur, has been my boss and I have learned so much about ripening.”

The cheesemonger and wholesaler will mature the St Jude cheeses at its headquarters in Bermondsey with initial batches sold at its Maltby Street store, before being rolled out to its Borough and Covent Garden shops.

“I have no plans for other cheeses,” said Cheyney. “I plan to keep my eye very much on St Jude.

It’s been a long pregnancy for the birth of this baby. I want to nurture her and look after her!”

achieving PDO status in 1995.

Accolades flooded in and at the World Cheese Awards 2002 their cows’ milk Swaledale Blue was voted World’s Best Blue Cheese.

Three years later, David tragically died of a heart attack, leaving Mandy and her two children devastated. The business might well have died too but for her resilience, her determination and the dogged hard work Mandy Reed’s death alongside daughter is an enormous loss to Louise and son Sam her family, colleagues that helped continue and everyone who cares David’s legacy.

At the time, about proper cheese Mandy said: “We’re a family business making hand-made and encouraged him to resurrect cheeses using traditional methods. It one of England’s lost cheeses and might mean less quantity but it does the Swaledale Cheese Company mean we ensure quality.” was launched in the kitchen of the In 2007, ill fate struck again Reeds’ home in North Yorkshire. when an expansion vessel in the The cows’ milk Swaledale found water system of their new dairy favour with delis and farm shops burst causing major structural and Swaledale ewe and Swaledale damage, the loss of all their cheese goat followed – the two former the eternal challenge – will today’s cheese be the perfect one?

Mandy’s challenge began in 1987, the day her first child, Louise was born and the day her chef husband, David was made redundant. By chance, David met the widow of the last man to make Swaledale cheese, a Mrs Longhurst. She offered the recipe

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Cheshire-based Joseph Heler Creamery has developed a range of own-brand cheese for Tesco that the retailer will market as affordable “British cheese with provenance”.

The range, which will all retail for £1.99, includes a mature cheddar, Double Gloucester, Red Leicester and a white Cheshire as well as smoked Red Leicester, Cheshire with Spring Onion and toasted hop cheddar.

Tesco said the range – described as “artisan” in a press release – will allow its customers “to create the ultimate cheeseboard”. and a four-month halt in production.

Again, triumph followed disaster when in 2009, Mandy collected the Golden Fork for Best Speciality Producer in the North at the Great Taste Awards, along with a 3-star Gold for Swaledale Blue. The same cheese was Reserve Champion at the World Cheese Awards 2010.

Her death at the ridiculously early age of 47 is an enormous loss to her family, colleagues and everyone who cares about proper cheese. Tributes have been paid to the woman known locally as ‘the cheese lady’. One local councillor lauded her for ‘keeping the name of Swaledale cheese alive’ and the local tourist agency described this ‘lovely lady’ as ‘part of the furniture at Leyburn Market each Friday, who will be sadly missed’.

Our thoughts are with her family.

FFD publisher Bob Farrand is chairman of the UK Cheese Guild

Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012

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For a real Farmhouse cheese made in the New Forest, Hampshire.

Makers of Lyburn Gold, Stoney Cross and Old Winchester.

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WORLD CHEESE AWARDS CHAMPION 2010 Supreme Champion Bath & West 2010

cheesewire Spanish try their hands at buffalo milk cheeses

It’s Chalke and cheese for McCall

Cheese made with milk from a new buffalo farm in Catalonia, believed to the first of its kind in Spain, is now available in the UK. Wholesaler Flavours of Spain has started importing three cheeses from La Búfala de L’Empordà – a company near Girona that has a 1,200-strong herd of buffalo on its 2,500 hectare farm in Palau Saverdera.

The company, which only began rearing buffalos in 2010 with 15 animals, has massively expanded its operation in the past year as demand from local cheese-makers for its milk has increased.

Lluís Mont, who has long raised cows, decided to switch to water buffalo when European subsidies for traditional cattle started to dry up.

The Murrah breed of buffalos were bought in Italy and Bulgaria and their milk is used to make four pasteurised cheeses: Mozzarella Catalana; Trufa de Búfala (a soft cheese that is encased in brown wax to resemble a large truffle); semi soft Flor de Búfala; and a blue cheese called Blau de Búfala.

“We have been selling the

James McCall, who previously worked with legendary cheesemaker and affineur James Aldridge for 17 years, is setting up a new business in Dorset, specialising in soft whites and washed rind cheeses.

Chalke Valley Cheese is based at the former Ashmore Dairy on the Cranborne Estate in Dorset, and has been set up by McCall and fellow cheesemaker Alison French with backing from local businesswoman Sue James. McCall and French both worked for Dorset-based Cranborne Chase, which closed down last year.

The pair are currently fitting out the 2,100 sq ft dairy with a 1,000-litre and 500-litre vat, and production is due to start next month. Around eight mould ripened and washed rind cheeses are expected to hit the market in June.

“We’ll be selling initially at markets and foodie events in the local area, but I’ve also had interest from Paxton & Whitfield and Fromage to Age,” said McCall.

“Markets are a great place to talk directly with customers to see what they like and what they don’t.

There’s also big gap in the market for cheeses in this part of Dorset since Cranborne Chase closed down.”

As well as working with James Aldridge and alongside French at Cranborne Chase, McCall also worked at Daylesford Organic.

The Ashmore Dairy was previously run by Pat and David Doble, who made an unpasteurised cheddar-style cheese called Ashmore Farmhouse.

The couple retired in 2007, but the business was relocated to Kent where the cheese is still made by Jane Bowyer at the Cheesemakers of Canterbury.

Flavours of Spain is handling the new cheese in the UK

cheeses at our market stall in Brockley and they have been really popular with customers,” said Ana Gomez, owner of Flavours of Spain.

“There are more and more good quality artisan cheeses coming out

of Spain at the moment. Many of the young people are trying to avoid the economic crisis by returning to the land and recovering artisan cheese-making methods.” www.flavoursofspain.co.uk

Hartington revival based on premium market

By PATRICK McGUIGAN

A new Stilton company in Derbyshire, which begins production next month, has revealed further details of how it plans to grow the business.

As reported in FFD last year, two former Dairy Crest executives, Adrian Cartlidge and Alan Salt, have teamed up with the cheese shop in the village of Hartington to relaunch the Hartington Creamery brand.

Around £500,000 has been

invested in converting three disused farm buildings into a production facility, which has been fitted with equipment acquired from Cranborne Chase and Quenby Hall Stilton, after they closed last year.

Much smaller than the original Hartington Creamery, which was shut down by parent company Dairy Crest in 2009, the new business is targeting the premium end of the market, said director

Hartington's Stilton will be made using ‘artisan techniques’

Adrian Cartlidge.“We will be making Stilton using artisan techniques with everything done by hand, so we will be targeting premium retailers,” he said.

“We will be joining the forces of the smaller producers of Stilton.

We certainly won’t be rivalling Long Clawson.”

The new business, which has been set up in conjunction with Claire and Garry Millner of the Hartington Cheese Shop, will grow through a four-phase business plan, said Cartlidge, with around 50 tonnes of Stilton made in the initial stage.

“Phase two will see us double production to 100 tonnes and phase three will see us target 150 tonnes with an eventual output of around 240 tonnes per year,” he said. “We have enough production space at the new facility to reach these targets, plus all the equipment, which we bought last year and can introduce as we need it.”

The project has been part-funded with a grant of £72,000 from the LEADER programme, which is part of the Rural Development Programme for England and uses EU and government funding to stimulate rural development.

Ex Cranborne Chase colleagues Alison French (left) and James McCall with new business partner Sue James Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012

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S I LV E R

KEEN’S CHEDDAR Traditional, unpasteurised, award-winning Cheddars from Wincanton Somerset

For details call 01963 32286 email: info@keenscheddar.co.uk www.keenscheddar.co.uk 22

March 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 2

farmhouse cheddar

Wealth of taste Creamy, dry, fruity, meaty – farmhouse cheddars offer a range of textures and flavours.

MICHAEL LANE asks wholesalers and retailers about their counter selections.

S

tocking farmhouse cheddar is not a simple proposition. In fact, carrying only one type could be as dangerous as offering none at all, given that each one has something different to offer the consumer.

Protected Designation of Origin West Country Farmhouse Cheddars – produced in the traditional heartland of Somerset, Devon, and Dorset – provide enough variation alone but there are also a number of regional alternatives from across the UK. Neal’s Yard Dairy’s sales director Jason Hinds says the variety offered by farmhouse cheddars is an opportunity that independent retailers can exploit as a point of difference from supermarkets.

“The nature of the product is that it changes from one day to the next [in production]. Supermarkets champion consistency. They don’t want to surprise their customers.

That is everything we don’t want to celebrate about farmhouse cheddar.”

Hinds says there are two distinct styles of cheese that define the spectrum of farmhouse cheddars.

The more established taste profile has a “clean, good mouthfeel but is not that complex”, he explains. “It’s the profile that the modern consumer has been programmed to look for, as directed by the multiples.”

He says that Keen’s, produced at the northern end of Somerset’s Blackmoor Vale, can satisfy consumers looking for this creamier profile but also delivers complex flavour. Two other West Country Farmhouse Cheddar makers also fit this bill – Green’s of Glastonbury and Devon-based Quickes.

At the other end is Somerset’s Montgomery’s cheddar, which Hinds describes as “fruity and meaty” and on the drier side as a result of the production method used.

Mongomery’s use of the peg mill in its production process creates irregular sized curd pieces and, in turn, a drier texture. If a chip mill is used, curds are separated into regular finger-sized pieces resulting in a closer textured type of cheese.

Hinds stresses that not all peg-milled cheddars are as dry, citing another Somerset producer, Westcombe. Hinds says of all the farmhouse producers Westcombe’s cheddaring process – when the curd is cut, stacked and milled – is the longest, creating a “supple, chamois leather curd” but the end result retains a savoury flavour.

Beyond the West Country, Hinds

Retailers have many options, from West country PDOs like Montgomery's to regionals like Lincolnshire Poacher

says that that cheeses like Hafod Welsh cheddar and the cheddar-style Lincolnshire Poacher provide another angle as they have “one foot in the Alpine cheese camp and one foot in the cheddar camp.”

Paul Adams, owner of The Cheese Shop in Louth, gets through

Hinds: farmhouse cheddar can be point of difference from multiples

three 8kg truckles of Lincolnshire Poacher every week. Adams, who carries both the 14-month and 19-month-old versions, says his local cheese provides a large amount of variation in flavour.

“You would think that the 19-month-old was always the stronger one but sometimes the younger is fruitier and zestier,” he says adding that the weather and, consequently, the feed given to the cows noticeably alters the flavour.

This sits well alongside Ford Farm’s Wookey Hole cave-aged cheddar, which he says is “consistent, has no fault lines, is clean looking and tasty”, and the typically fruity cheddar-style Ashmore from Cheesemakers of Canterbury.

Cheese Please owner Fiona Kay says that consumers no longer regard cheddar as a regional product and this is reflected by the line-up of at least 10 cheddars in her shop in Lewes, Sussex.

“I don’t think people automatically think that cheddar comes from Somerset. Supermarkets hounded that out of them,” she says.

Alongside West Country staples Kay stocks local farmhouse cheddarstyles such as The Traditional Cheese

Co’s Olde Sussex and Winterdale Shaw from Kent.

“Winterdale fares very well because it’s a 10 month cave-aged cheddar. It has a fuller flavour without the acidic bite but the acidity comes through if the cows have been fed on silage,” she says adding that Olde Sussex is often a good product to introduce children to more complex cheese.

One cheese the interviewees are unanimous on stocking is Isle of Mull. Neal’s Yard’s Hinds describes the cheddar-style cheese as his “wild card”.

Scottish cheese wholesaler and retailer Iain Mellis says that Isle of Mull creates an explosion in the mouth and a “wow factor” that is suited to every cheese counter's line-up. He adds that cheddar-style cheeses north of the border are also very distinct from each other – from more prominent cheese, like Isle of Mull, to small batch products like Loch Arthur made from short horn milk in Dumfries, through to the revived milder Dunlop style made in Ayrshire “Certainly every English and Scottish cheddar I have tasted really is quite different. They are not similar no matter how much producers try.”

Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012

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farmhouse cheddar Profile If you want your cheddar subtle, complex and seductive, you need less testosterone in the dairy. Mary Quicke educates PATRICK McGUIGAN in the ways of women.

T

here's no denying that Mary Quicke has a way with words.

The transcript of my interview with the award-winning cheddar maker is punctuated with lovely turns of phrase as she goes into detail about the farm and her cheese.

Take this line about how eating good cheese focuses the mind on the here and now: “It’s like an education in being present. It’s about the moment, which is where real happiness lies.”

Then there is a mention of Thomas Hardy’s Tess of the d’Urbervilles, as Quicke explains women’s role in cheese-making, followed by a story about Slow Food, where a French acquaintance described her cheese as having a ‘palier’ (grand staircase) of flavours.

The poetic language is not surprising when you discover that Quicke once studied for a PhD in English literature. That was while she was living in London, but her heart was always back on the family farm in Devon to where she returned in 1984, working alongside her parents Prue and Sir John Quicke and eventually taking over the business.

The Quicke family has farmed near the village of Newton St. Cyres for 450 years, but the dairy was only built in 1973. By this stage Quicke’s father was deep into agri-politics (for which he was knighted), so it was her mother that was actually the driving force behind the business, while somehow managing to raise six children at the same time.

Today the 1,500 acre farm has a 500-strong herd of cows and produces around 300 tonnes of cheese each year, the vast majority of which is cloth-bound cheddar, both pasteurised and unpasteurised.

The fact that Quickes has been run by women for over 30 years has had a major impact on the cheese itself, says the current boss, who was awarded an MBE in 2005. “There’s something distinctive about cheddar made by female cheese-makers. It’s said that women’s palates are more sensitive. Of course some men’s palates are wonderfully sensitive, but there can be a boy thing of wanting flavour that hits you between the eyes.

“As a business we’ve always prized complexity, subtlety, balance and length of flavour. Is that because it’s a female thing? We want to be

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March 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 2

Subtlety?

It’s a female thing…

makers, it also uses a mixed strain starter culture, which helps develop complexity in the cheese.

Most industrial cheese-makers use single strain starters, which are far easier and more reliable to use but, according to Mary Quicke, lack subtlety. “They have started using a type of single-strain starter called Helveticus, which is common in Swiss cheese. It gives very It’s said that women’s typically sweet flavours palates are more and covers up a sensitive. There can be multitude of sins. a boy thing of wanting The supermarkets have told their flavour that hits you cheese-makers between the eyes that they have to use it and so cheddar has started to become this Montbeliarde) to get the required sweet thing that is accessible and balance between fats and proteins easy.” in the milk. The cattle also graze Despite these concerns, outside for around 10 months of the Quickes does actually supply the year using farming techniques first supermarkets, including Waitrose, developed in New Zealand.

Tesco, Sainsbury’s and Morrisons.

The cheese-making process is also Around 20% of sales are to the obviously key to achieving complexity. multiples, with independents making Quickes scalds the curds at a slightly up 54% and exports 26% of the higher temperature than most to business. achieve that trademark creamy It seems a risky strategy that flavour. Like other farmhouse cheeseseduced and allured on our way to pleasure, not beaten up!”

A mature Quickes cheddar has a creamy front, followed by some acidity, rich savoury flavours and caramel notes at the finish, she says.

Achieving these layers of flavour depends on several factors. On the farm, Quickes rears cross-bred cows (Kiwi Friesian, Swedish Red and

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could alienate independents, but Quicke is keen to explain her reasoning. “The supermarkets select a more forward flavour, which is less complex and balanced than the cheeses that go to the independents.

It’s good for us to be able to take them out of the way of the independents. The next step is to distinguish the different types. We need to label it up differently.”

Labelling will also have to change if Quickes ever becomes part of the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) protecting West Country Farmhouse Cheddar. The company contributed its views when the PDO was set up in 1996, but eventually decided not to take part.

Quicke has recently enquired about joining, but her scald temperature is 1°F higher than is permitted under the terms of the PDO. It means the regulations would have to be amended – something that is under discussion at the moment. There’s no way Quicke would change her recipe to meet the PDO. That might compromise the ‘grand staircase’ of flavours she has worked so hard for in her cheddar. www.quickes.co.uk

Little Sussex

Su

ss

Smoked Ashdown Forester

ex of Fo th od e ‘P Ye ro ar d ’ uc e

Please contact the Dairy for further information.

High Weald Dairy, Tremains Farm, Horsted Keynes, West Sussex RH17 7EA. Tel: 01825 791636, email: info@highwealddairy.co.uk www.highwealddairy.co.uk

r

Award Winning organic sheep milk cheeses made on the farm in Sussex, which include; Little Sussex, Duddleswell, Sussex Slipcote, and Halloumi, and from organic cows’ milk; Saint Giles, Ashdown Foresters, and Sussex Cheddar.

Green Pastures (Donegal) Creamery Road Convoy Co. Donegal Ireland Tel +353 74 91 47193 www.yeatscountryfoods.com

enquiries@carronlodge.com Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012

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March 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 2

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The Miniature Bakery is a specialist craft bakery based in Batley, West Yorkshire. Where we lovingly create hand baked biscuits using only the finest natural quality ingredients. The latest addition to our range is our Chocolate Biscuit Selection, featuring a selection of all our favourites, this is the perfect introduction to our range, combining the textures and flavours of bake and chocolate. From Meringues to Viennese, this pack also includes our new chocolate Crisp was shortlisted in the Deliciously Yorkshire ‘Best New Product 2011’ category.

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Striking GOLD in the GREAT TASTE is much more than a pat on the back for your food and drink. It’s your access to the most exclusive speciality food club in the country. A club that helps you increase sales through greater trade and consumer awareness driven by promotions,endorsements, events and tutored tastings.

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Be a part of Great Taste 2012 • Over 80 Aga Rangemaster cookery demonstrations at foodie shows and events • Over 200,000 copies of Taste Gold distributed to consumers • Over 30 Great Taste Markets across the UK • Tasting theatres at major consumer food shows • Pop-up restaurants with producers named on menus • Product evaluation and feedback • Listing in the most comprehensive UK buyer’s guide in print & online

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March 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 2

soft drinks

product update

Fruit and fizz

From alcohol-free alternatives for adults to old recipe revivals, LYNDA SEARBY rounds up the newest products in the speciality soft drinks market Feel Good Drinks is hoping to shake up the market with a new range of mocktails. With an RRP of £2.49 for 750ml, the Bucks Fizz, Peach Bellini and Mojito drinks double up as soft drinks or cocktail mixers. According to Feel Good Drinks, their main point of difference is that they contain no added sugar. “As more people get wise to the fact that the leading juice drinks contain up to six teaspoons of added sugar, we believe we will see a major switch to more refreshing, healthier drinks like ours,” says co-founder Steve Cooper.

The Juice Brewery’s Hopper Soft Brew is now available in blackcurrant flavour, as well as the existing apple and citrus varieties, at an RRP of £1.26 per 275ml bottle.

Described as ‘a soft drink that pours like a beer and has a smooth and mature taste’, Hopper Soft Brew is claimed to be the first ever brewed zero-alcohol soft drink. It is made from malted barley and hops, fruit juices and spring water, which have been traditionally brewed, but the fermenting process is halted before alcohol production takes place. www.juicebrewery.com

www.feelgooddrinks.co.uk

The Juiceology collection is the brainchild of entrepreneur Richard Watson and ‘mixologist’ Joe McCanta. These fruit-sweetened drinks are a blend of purées, juices, botanicals, herbs, spices and spring water, and also contain milk thistle, a plant extract reputed to prevent and repair damage to the liver from toxins such as alcohol.

The RRP is £1.69 for 275ml.

Biddenden Vineyards, Kent’s oldest commercial vineyard, is making a foray into pear juice.

A blend of Kentish Comice and Conference pears, the juice is cloudy, in contrast to the clear apple juices and Kentish ciders that the vineyard is best known for. It is available in 1 litre or 250ml bottles.

www.tastejuiceology.com

East Sussex-based Gran Stead’s Ginger is now producing a Light & Fiery ginger wine (RRP £4.25 75cl), as a counterfoil to its Dark & Mellow ginger wine. The hot new variant is described as “unashamedly spicy”. www.gransteadsginger.co.uk.

www.biddendenvineyards.com

Top sellers…

Blackcurrant & liquorice cordial might sound like a modern-day concoction, fé @ a C id h but according to Lancashire soft drink rc O … at The maker Mr Fitzpatrick’s, it is as Per th much a part of the county’s heritage McEwens of as Bury black pudding. Launched in iata and nc ra A o in San Pellegr December, Mr Fitzpatrick’s version of this local speciality is made to a recipe Limonata & Carrot, e ng ra dating back to the Victorian era, O CE A Juice Burst le which was when the Fitzpatrick family pp A d an te Pomegrana first started the business. The cordial s) le glass bott traditional retails at £4 for 500ml.

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Cherrygood has launched the first chilled cherry juice in the UK. Made from antioxidant-rich Montmorency and tart cherry concentrates, Cherrygood premium cherry has an RRP of £2.29. www.cherrygood.com

Fentimans is a hit with record label A cherry cola developed for a US music boss has hit shelves in the UK and will feature heavily on the label’s 2012 Euro tour

A request from Fentimans fan and CEO of Cherrytree Records Martin Kierzenbaum led the producer to develop its latest botanical brew – Cherrytree cola.

The drink was launched in the USA in 2011 but Fentimans is now producing the flavour for the UK

and Europe. It will benefit from high profile promotion during the Cherrytree Records 2012 European tour, which runs from February to April and features acts such as LMFAO, Ellie Goulding and The Far East Movement. 20-foot high inflatable Cherrytree Cola bottles

will be prominently positioned on-stage during the tour.

Fentimans hopes that the association will introduce its brand to a younger audience.

www.fentimans.com

Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012

29

Fine Quality Fruit Juices

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30

March 2012 路 Vol.13 Issue 2 20132 Levercliff Speciality Ad V4.indd 1

05/01/2012 12:52

product update Top sellers…

GoGo, … at Deli a , Cardiff Whitchurch

rflower Organic Elde Whole Earth a and Limonat o Aranciata San Pellegrin Ginger Beer Bundaberg berry Shake Straw Daioni Milk glass bottles) traditional (in la Co ca Co

soft drinks Retailers who are keen to cash in on the buzz surrounding energy drinks but not so keen on potent pick-me-ups like Red Bull may be interested in Scheckter’s OrganicEnergy. Billed as a natural, organic alternative to chemical-ridden energy drinks, Scheckter’s OrganicEnergy drink contains extracts from organic raw green coffee beans and organic guarana as a source of caffeine, ginseng and gingko biloba. The RRP is £1.45 for a 250ml can.

For the first time, James White has moved away from the glass bottle and is now packing its Beet It organic beetroot juice in 1 litre ambient tetrapaks (RRP £3.99). www.jameswhite. co.uk

www.schecktersorganic.com

Having already built up a following among Hollywood celebrities and ‘raw foodies’ in the US, Kombucha tea is now catching on this side of the Atlantic.

Gaia Brands has revived the ancient Chinese detox drink with the launch of GO! Kombucha, a probiotic kombucha tea drink that is made by fermenting sweetened tea with a culture of good bacteria and beneficial yeast. Consumed regularly, the ‘live’ drink is claimed to help restore the gut flora and detox the body. It is available from Tree of Life and Infinity at a trade price of £3.74 (RRP £4.99).

Importer Morgiel Fine & Organic Foods is supplying some unusual organic juices, including plum, cherry and aronia (chokeberry).

Virtually unheard of in the UK, black chokeberries contain a particularly high concentration of anthocyanins.

The trade price is £15.48 for 12 x 300ml bottles of plum or cherry juice, while a 12 x 300ml bottle case of aronia juice costs £14.28. www.morgielfoods. co.uk

Distributed via Cotswold Fayre, Eager juices are said to be the first not-from-concentrate fruit juices packed in 180ml wedge format and targeted at kids.

“There are similar products

by Innocent, Tropicana and Copella but these either have water in or are marketed at adults,” says Ed Rigg, founder of of Eager Drinks.

There are three flavours: apple, apple & mango and apple & & pineapple (RRP £2.49 for a fourpack). www.eagerdrinks.com

www.gokombucha.com

The latest blend from Cawston Press is an apple lemonade, which uses pressed apple juice, water, squeezed lemon juice and sugar to strike a balance between sweet and sour.

The RRP is £2.09 for a 1 litre carton. www.cawstonpress.com

Metro Drinks, which exclusively supplies the independent trade, has refreshed its packaging and launched three new juice varieties under its Folkington’s brand. Joining cloudy apple, tomato and orange are cranberry, cloudy pear and pink lemonade. Cloudy pear juice uses Conference and Comice pears and the pink lemonade is made from Femminello Comune Sicilian lemons.

The RRP is £1.39 for a 250ml bottle. www.metrodrinks.co.uk

Top sellers…

… at Godfrey C. Williams & Son, Sandbach, C heshire

Fentimans 2 75ml botani cal brews (Victorian Le monade, Ros e Lemonade and Ginger Beer) Alison’s Hom emade cord ials Rochester G inger and R ochester Org Mulled Berry anic Punch

Sunmagic or ange and ap ple juices

Vita Coco coconut water is now available in a 500ml resealable carton (RRP from £2.49), as well as the existing 330ml and 1 litre formats. www.vitacoco.co.uk

Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012

31

100% PURE

Coconut Water 100% Pure Coconut Water Phone: 020 7091 3200 Fax: 020 7091 3300 Email: sales@bespoke-foods.co.uk Web: www.bespoke-foods.co.uk

Try Go Coco today!

For Fast, Natural, Hydration Natural healthy alternative to sport’s drinks High growth category/on-trend product Extensive PR marketing campaigns planned for 2012 The most competitive coconut water on market per 100ml Available from all leading wholesalers

www.gococodrinks.com 32

March 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 2

A promotional feature for the Guild of Fine Food

MARCH’S MONEY MAKING PROMOTIONS The Guild of Fine Food has developed its Retail Promotion Scheme to help retailers survive recession hit Britain. We are negotiating with our producer members and have handpicked a selection of great products on which we’ve secured big discounts unique to Guild retail members.

JUST OILS

ROWCLIFFE

GTA Gold award winning Just Cold Pressed Rapeseed Oil is grown, harvested, cold pressed, filtered and bottled on Just Oils’ farm in Staffordshire where the unique triple filtering gives the oil an extra light flavour with zero additives. Range on offer includes Just Rapeseed Oil infused with Garlic, Just Rapeseed Oil Infused with Lemon, Just Rapeseed Oil Infused with Chilli and Just Stir Fry Oriental Oil. THE DEAL: Buy any 3 cases of Just Infused Oils and get a case of Just Cold Pressed Rapeseed Oil 6 x 250ml worth £15.00 free.

AVAILABILITY: Mainland U.K. free delivery for £100 orders CONTACT: Claire Rose on 01543 493081 or e-mail enquiry@justoil.co.uk

Two new olive lines from Castellino Olives have joined the Rowcliffe stable.

Calabrese olives from Southern Italy are crushed, brined through winter and then marinated in a spicy pepper and fennel seed oil mix. Itrana black olives from Gaeta in Campania are ripened on the tree and perfect in a host of classic dishes or with salami or cheese.

THE DEAL: 20% off list price AVAILABILITY: Nationwide-next day delivery CONTACT: Steve Smith or Claire Philip on 01892 838999

EL OLIVO

ODYSEA Produced by Alexandros Gousiaris on the family farm in the small village of Ilias in central Greece, Parasti Tomata’ organic tomato sauces include Basil, Kalamata olive, Carrot & celery and Chilli. No chemical fertilisers or insecticides are used in growing these heritage tomatoes, which are carefully selected for ripeness before being harvested by hand.

THE DEAL: Buy all four varieties and save 25% i.e. Buy 3 and get the 4th free AVAILABILITY: Natonwide subject to minimum carriage paid order CONTACT: Martin Bumpsteed on 0207 608 1841 or e-mail martin@odysea.com

This Edinburgh based distributor is offering a six for the price of five offer on three products: Whole Garlic Cloves in olive oil, Organic Cherry sundried tomatoes, and baby peppers stuffed with olives and anchovies. Each glass jar is priced at £2.80 and the offer can either increase your margin or be used as a taster to encourage new sales. Point of sale material and recipe cards available.

THE DEAL: Buy 5 cases and get a 6th FREE on stated range AVAILABILITY: Nationwide £150 orders carriage paid. Smaller orders £7.99. FOR NEW CUSTOMERS carriage is FREE irrespective of size CONTACT: Maria or Ian on 0131 668 4751 or visit www.elolivo-olive-oil.com

DELI-CIOUS Biobandits Organic sauces, dressings and mayonnaises is a new range of nine 100% organic ambient, versatile and convenient store cupboard essentials.

Good shelf visibility and a free sample bottle is supplied with every case to assist in-store tastings. Honest and great tasting and split delivery orders are welcome.

THE DEAL: 20% Discount off the list price of the entire range – Minimum order of £125 AVAILABILITY: Nationwide – free delivery on minimum order £125. Smaller orders £7.00.

CONTACT: Craig Riches on 0203 397 4701 or visit www.deli-icious.net

SUMMER ISLAND FOODS Located in the heart of the Scottish salmon-producing region, only top quality Freedom Food accredited salmon is selected for smoking to ensure lower oil content and firmer fleshed salmon for easier slicing. We prepare the salmon using an organic spiced brine to give the smoked fish a subtle sweetness in the aftertaste.

THE DEAL: Buy 20x 200g packs of Smoked Scottish Salmon and get 10 jars of Seaweed relish FREE AVAILABILITY: Nationwide carriage paid on orders over £200.

CONTACT: Email sales@summerislesfoods.co.uk or call Helen on 01854 622353 or visit: www.summerislesfoods.co.uk

GUILD RETAIL PROMOTION SUMMARY (Available to Guild members only) COMPANY

DEAL

TEL

EMAIL

JUST OILS DELI-CIOUS EL OLIVO ROWCLIFFE ODYSEA SUMMER ISLAND

Free case of Cold Pressed Rapeseed Oil 20% Discount off the list price Buy 5 cases and get a 6th FREE 20% off list price Save 25% i.e. Buy 3 and get the 4th free 10 jars of Seaweed relish FREE

01543 493 081 0203 397 4701 0131 668 4751 01892 838999 020 7608 1841 01854 622353

enquiry@justoil.co.uk www.deli-icious.net www.elolivo-olive-oil.com sales@rowcliffe.co.uk martin@odysea.com sales@summerislesfoods.co.uk

RETAIL MEMBERS – To sign up to the retail promotion scheme contact: tortie.farrand@finefoodworld.co.uk or ring her on 01963 824464 to ensure you receive your shelf-barkers to help promote these discounts instore. SUPPLIER MEMBERS – want to take part?

Contact mike.cook@finefoodworld.co.uk for more information Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012

33

soft drinks

product update For its first major launch in five years, Cornish Orchards is introducing a traditional lemonade for summer. The sparkling lemonade combines freshly pressed lemon juice, Cornish apple juice and Cornish spring water, and comes in 240ml and 740ml bottles, with an RRP of £1.50 and £3.50.

Belvoir Fruit Farms is tapping into the street party fever around the Diamond Jubilee and the Olympics with five new beverages backed by a marketing campaign.

Described as ‘British classics with a 21st century twist’, the new products are English apple pressé, lemonade (with a hint of ham, g n li orange blossom) and ginger beer m ra F eli in … at Leo’s D in 75 and 25cl bottles, as well k ol ff u S as organic lemon cordial and e, g d Woodbri raspberry & lemon cordial in 75 e ad on m Le ienne Pink ac tu and 50cl bottles. or M La For the marketing campaign, Belvoir is commissioning le) (100cl bott ttle) bo a diamond pendant by jewellery designer Alex Monroe. cl 0 0 (1 ienne Citron The pendant will feature as an on-pack offer on bottles La Mor tuac - a local of elderflower and ginger cordials. In addition, celebrity r apple juice !

Apple Butte chef Valentine Warner is developing a menu of street party ade by Todd m k ol ff Su company in dishes to showcase how Belvoir products can be used as cooking ingredients, and the firm Limonata o in gr lle Pe San is also running a competition to find a historic h drink street party photo to feature on pack.

Granini peac

www.cornishorchards.co.uk

Top sellers…

www.belvoirfruitfarms.co.uk

The Botanical Drinks Co is a new start-up hoping to break into the market with Lull, a lightly sparkling ‘chill out drink’. The drink is said to be ‘super-charged’ with natural botanicals, eight vitamins and juices of kiwifruit, blackberry, blackcurrant and grape, which are protected from UV light by the aluminium bottle. Lull is currently stocked in Fortnum & Mason and the Botanical Drinks Co is on the lookout for more stockists. It has an RRP of £1.90 for an individual serving. www.drinklull.com

Claytons Kola Tonic, originally produced by the Clayton Brothers of Battersea in the 1880s, has made a return to the UK market through Speciality Drinks of London.

Now produced in Barbados by Armstrong Manufacturing, the kola nut extract drink can be used as a mixer for gin, vodka and rum, or consumed as a soft drink. It retails at £6.99 for 750ml. www.specialitydrinks.com

Fentimans has developed a milder version of its Traditional Ginger Beer for those drinkers who prefer a cooler taste.

Launching in March in a 275ml bottle (RRP £1.29), Cool Ginger Beer is said to have a slightly less prominent ginger character, achieved through the addition of pear juice.

Breckland Orchard’s pear & elderflower, ginger beer with chilli and sloe lemonade are now available in 750ml ‘sharing bottles’ (RRP £2.99).

The Norfolk producer is also unveiling a new flavour of ‘posh pop’ – Cream Soda with a Splash of Rhubarb – at the Farm Shop & Deli show in March.

The RRP is £1.40 for a 275ml bottle. www.brecklandorchard.co.uk

www.fentimans.com

Coconut water craze reaches deli trade The latest health drink is already available on the shelves of most independents in London and now looks set to go nationwide When it comes to trends, London leads the rest of the UK, and this is no different when it comes to the latest celeb tipple.

A few years ago coconut water was the preserve of health food outlets, but now, according to Go Coco Drinks, in the capital, those delis that don’t stock the electrolytepacked thirst quencher are in the minority.

“Most London delis stock coconut water and the trend is gaining popularity outside London now,” Tracey Hogarth, operations general manager, told FFD. Market leader Vita Coco estimates that the market in the UK – of which it commands a 96%

34

March 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 2

share – is currently around £10m, and growing fast. Its own sales grew by 102% in 2011, to £8.5m.

Whilst she couldn’t put a figure on what percentage of these sales were to delis and farmshops, Pip Brook, the company’s marketing director, confirmed that they are an important part of Vita Coco’s customer base.

“Delis and farm shops are increasingly looking for natural and healthy products and coconut water meets this demand perfectly. Deli shoppers tend to have sophisticated tastes and know what’s good for them – the shopper who buys French cheese is as likely to buy coconut water.”

In terms of how much coconut

water deli owners can expect to shift, Go Coco said its customers are currently seeing a rate of sale of between two and three cases a week – and that’s during the low winter season.

However, delis who decide to jump on the coconut water bandwagon should beware cheap imitations.

“You can buy cans of coconut water for 32 pence but they will contain additives and preservatives and will be from concentrate,” said Vita Coco’s Brook. “Retailers should look for pure, natural, not-fromconcentrate coconut water.” www.vitacoco.com www.gococodrinks.com

01840 214106

C

ha

rc

ut e

ri e Award winning artisan charcuterie hand crafted in Cornwall info@delifarmcharcuterie.co.uk

Salami | Coppa | Bresaola | Pancetta | Prosciutto

0480 Melodia Ad

23/11/10

15:38

www.delifarmcharcuterie.co.uk

Page 1

01_BATH_PIG_QUATER PAGE_AD PRINT.indd 1

13/02/2012 11:04

Importers and distributers of fine hams and charcuterie For a full list of charcuterie products, please go to our web site and register www.melodiafood.com when ordering please quote “GOFFAD01

2012, year of the Adlington smoked turkey

Please come and visit us at the Food and Drink Expo 2012 at the Birmingham NEC 25-27th March 2012. You will find us on the Heart of England stand so do drop by and taste our superb smoked turkey. You won’t be disappointed!!

For more information visit our website or call Carlo on: 07971 168514 Melodia Food Company Limited Watery Lane Works, Watery Lane, Darwen BB3 2EB www.melodiafood.com

Adlington Limited Pheasant Oak Farm Hob Lane Balsall Common CV7 7GX

01676 532681 www.adlingtonltd.com Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012

35

product update

Taking the cure New home-grown producers are adding a healthy sheen to the premium charcuterie market, says MICK WHITWORTH

Above: Jules Jackson of specialist charcutier Norfolk Deli: ‘People don’t understand what we’re doing. I have to tell them it’s nothing new – it’s ancient’

36

March 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 2

A

Friday in early February, and north Norfolk charcutier Jules Jackson is on Twitter, letting customers know what they’ll find on his stall the next day at Creake Abbey farmers’ market.

“LOOK Stuff we’ve got 2moro @ creakeabbey mergues, garlic sosij, petit sale, pate, rillettes, cornedbeef, molasses, CuredFillet, salami, jerky.”

Jackson, a former chef and selftaught butcher-charcutier, is one of the new breed of British producers who’ve started small, drawing on well-known and less-well-known Continental recipes but then giving them a British twist.

He’s unstoppably enthusiastic about the whole business of making beautiful things from blood, flesh and offal, and has an ex-chef’s penchant for experimentation.

Alongside the bresaola, basturma and chorizo you’ll find his signature beef ‘stoutie’ – a roast-dinner-ina-sausage, complete with potato, mustard and horseradish. There’s even a meat-free chocolate salami, given the authentic look by lumps of white chocolate ‘fat’. Every now and again he runs a ‘Guess the weight of the sausage’ competition

on Twitter. Shock horror – it seems charcuterie can be fun!

Businesses like Jackson’s Norfolk Deli (formerly De-lish) – which is based in a tiny shop in Wellsnext-the-Sea and should start wholesaling later this year – have tapped into their local foodie culture to create grassroots excitement around a category that,

Consultant and trainer Marc-Frederic Berry: ‘We eat more charcuterie than any other country in the world.

Look at the full English breakfast: bacon, sausages, black pudding…’

in many delis and farm shops, plays second fiddle to cheese.

“So many shops just get their charcuterie from a wholesaler’s catalogue,” sighs Jackson.

While this may make practical sense for smaller retailers who struggle to turn stock, a surprising number of busier businesses, swept away by the surge of interest in farmhouse cheese, appear to treat charcuterie as an afterthought: three or four generic salamis, a prosciutto and an English ham, tucked sadly in the corner of the serveover.

“Many delis do offer more than the just the lowest priced Continental salamis,” says Sally Levell of recent start-up Forest Pig Charcuterie, “but much of the imported salami is so cheap that outlets find it difficult to offer us shelf space, unless they have customers that already appreciate the difference.”

According to Rod Adlington, director of the West Midlands premium turkey producer that bears his family name,

charcuterie many shop owners don’t really know how to display deli meats, don’t know how to carve or slice them, and are worried about the high unit cost of the product if it doesn’t sell. “I’ve been talking to some retailers about this,” says Adlington, whose business is just starting a fresh promotional push behind its own premium smoked turkey. “We’re thinking of running carving workshops at the farm, where delis can send their counter staff.” His West Country distributor, Hawkridge, is among wholesalers that will also help delis with their counter set-up, he adds.

If smoked turkey does not come under your definition of charcuterie, you’re not alone. We Brits seem to have narrowed our vision to a few familiar lines from Spain, Italy and France. But as charcuterie consultant and trainer Marc-Frederic Berry points out, that’s not at all how the French see it.

Berry was born plain Mark Berry but adopted the name Marc-Frederic after living and working in France, and is Britain’s only French-registered bouchercharcutier-traiteur (read the story in his newly- published a memoir-cumrecipe-book, Le Charcutier Anglais).

He now teaches professionals and consumers at schools such as Empire Farm in Somerset, and gives advice to start-up producers and farm diversification schemes – of which there are now many.

“There’s no strict British translation of ‘charcutier’,” he says, “but it really just means ‘master curer’: it’s about preserving meat through curing, smoking and cooking. And a traiteur is a bit like an outside caterer. French restaurants are more self-sufficient now, but in years gone past all the top restaurants were supported by their local charcutier-traiteur.”

He’s among those who believe we could raise the profile of all charcuterie in Britain by widening its scope to include products that, for the French, would typically be sold

by the boucher-charcutier-traiteur – like pork pies, which are essentially a British version of paté en croute.

“Nearly all forms of pie-making are ‘charcuterie’,” he says.

“In fact, we eat more charcuterie than any other country in the world, it’s just that people don’t equate that word with what we eat. Look at the full English breakfast: bacon, sausages, black pudding…”

Jules Jackson agrees. “I’ve had this conversation with so many people in my shop,” he says. “They don’t really understand what we’re doing, but I have to point out to them that it’s nothing new – it’s ancient. For generations, country people would have kept a brine bucket in the pantry and hams hanging in the chimney.”

The emergence of new British producers, many of them with rich back-stories, could give renewed energy to the whole charcuterie section, provided delis are confident in explaining their premium prices.

At distributor Cheese Cellar, which handles the Deli Farm range from Cornwall, group category manager Paul Brotherton, says he is seeing an “extremely positive response” to British charcuterie, with scope for regionalisation as seen in the cheese sector. “The quality is definitely there and our customers like to be able to support British producers. The main issue is price – British charcuterie is generally more expensive due to the artisan scale of production.”

But while Continental producers benefit from economies of scale, Brotherton says it is vital British charcuterers do not compromise quality – for example, by reducing the ageing process – to meet price and volume demands. There is already a growing market in hotels and restaurants, and retail enquiries are now picking up speed. “We’re not meeting any resistance,” he says. www.delifarmcharcuterie.co.uk www.cheesecellar.co.uk charcutieranglais.blogspot.com www.norfolkdeli.co.uk

Deli Farm distributor Cheese Cellar says it is meeting no resistance to the idea of premium British charcuterie

Strictly roots Master charcutier Vincent Castellano has sold his deli and now plans to focus on developing a range of products for retail.

MICHAEL LANE reports.

B

ristol-based Vincent Castellano looks back fondly on the first days of his apprenticeship with charcutiers in the French Alps.

“It was like magic,” he recalls.

“You’d get whole pigs coming in on a Monday morning and by the end of the week it was all turned into salamis, hams, pancetta, patés – all sorts of wonderful things. Even today I still find it a magical thing to do” After arriving in the UK in 1983 Castellano, a master charcutier and consultant to other producers, worked as a head chef, but for the last three years he ran his own deli in Bristol’s Fishponds area.

Now he has sold the store so he can concentrate on his first love.

Having spent well over a decade mastering the craft in France, Castellano can turn any part of a pig into a delicacy, whether it’s pancetta (pictured above), salami, faggots from offal, or even brawn, made with flesh from the head.

Although he is in the early stages of developing a range for retail – beyond the local farmers’ markets that are his current outlet

– Castellano wants to focus on air-dried products for this part of his business. As well as salamis, he says that coppa (air-dried neck meat) has big potential.

“When I first started making it for farmers’ markets people were saying, ‘What is that?’ They tasted it and now I’ve got customers buying it every single week.

“It’s one of those products that is similar to cured ham. But it’s a lot quicker to turn around than ham, which takes six to 18 months depending how refined you want it. With coppa after six to eight weeks you have a product that is ready to eat.”

Castellano adds that despite the success at farmers’ markets of his raw sausages, including a variety made with Gloucester Old Spot pork, he won’t be upping his sausage production for the retail business.

“There are so many sausage producers and, although the quality varies, it’s still direct competition. As an artisan, sausages are labour intensive and the profits are limited.” www.castellanos.co.uk

Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012

37

Wherever people en joy good food we aim to supply it...

Expo Come and Visit us at the Food and Drink on Stand No 1 220.

Featuring: C heese - Bri tish and C ontinenta l bles and more Dell’ami - olives, oils, Mediterranean vegeta C harcuterie - Bri tish and C ontinenta l Valrhona - chocolate Ponthier - fruit purees etables Fresh As - freeze dried fruits and veg 0207 819 6001 enquiries@cheesecellar.co.uk www.cheesecellar.co.uk

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For further details and how to buy our award-winning products contact 01892 838999, www.rowcliffe.co.uk Email: joe@zottola.co.uk, www.negroni.com 38

March 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 2

charcuterie

product update Cornish Charcuterie produces a number of ambient patés with a shelf life of three months.

The range consists of chicken liver & port paté, duck liver & Cointreau paté and pork rillette.

The Bude-based firm also produces a range of complementary products including sweet pickled chillies and pickled quail eggs.

All the patés come in 200g Le Parfait glass jars with a two-part lid system. Each jar has a RRP of £4.99, while trade cases of six are available for £21. enquiries@cornishcharcuterie.co.uk.

Great Glen Game’s latest creations include a chilli venison chorizo, which won two gold stars at last year’s Great Taste Awards, and a whole smoked grouse breast – the Highlands firm’s first non-venison product. The chorizo is available in chunks (£34.38/ kg wholesale) or 75g packs (RRP £3.95). The grouse breasts, which the firm suggests for use in starters and canapés, are sold individually and weigh no less than 35g (RRP £6.95).

Spanish foods specialist Brindisa now offers an artisan Pyrenean paté. This coarse-cut pork liver paté comes from the Cerdanya region of Catalunya. It is available in a 2kg loaf (trade £8.65/kg), a 250g loaf (£12.60 for a case of six) and 100g slices (£16.20 for a case of 12).

Brindisa also has two Ibérico Bellota fats, which were launched in time for Christmas and it says proved very popular.

The fats, which can be used in baking and as an alternative to goose fat, come from the same supplier as Brindisa’s premium ham. Both the plain fat (trade £1.40 per unit) and the Pimentón fat (trade £1.50 per unit) come in 190g jars. www.brindisawholesale.com

www.greatglengame.co.uk

The Real Boar Co makes a range of products from its own Cotswold forest-reared wild boars.

Its wild boar salami with sloe gin, made with a slug of The Wessex Wild Plum Co’s slow gin, is air dried for up to six weeks. This salami, which has a six month shelf life, is available for £35.25/kg and comes in 400g presentation tubes (trade £17.50, RRP £25) or sliced in 100g vacuum packs (trade £6.75, RRP £8.50).

The Wiltshire-based firm also produces a limited edition Black Label air dried wild boar ham. This ham – sold in 70g pre-sliced packs, RRP £8.50 – is a culatello, a cut from the haunch, which has been seasoned in a range of spices with either juniper or fennel, then air-dried. www.therealboar.co.uk/charcuterie

New start-up Ross & Ross has created a range of potted meats with complementary chutneys. The products will be sold as duo packs, with 110g jars of meat and 40g jars of chutney, which the firm says contain just the right amount to complement the meat.

The firm’s duck rillettes comes with an apricot chutney (trade £3.40, RRP £5.50). Its pork rillettes is paired with a smoked apple chutney (trade £3.20, RRP £5) while its chicken liver parfait is accompanied by a red onion chutney (trade £2.80. RRP £4.50).

Trade cases contain six twin packs, 12 jars in total. www.rossandrossfood.co.uk

Irish black pudding producer Clonakilty has recently overhauled its packaging and resized its products for the UK market as it looks to gain more listings in independent retailers.

The UK versions of the product are smaller than those sold in Ireland while the packaging contains information on the company, whose recipe dates back to the 1800s. The Corkbased firm offers black and white pudding in 200g boxes (RRP £1.79) and in 400g rings (RRP £3).

Forest Pig says sales of its Shropshiremade salamis on’s … at Harris are starting to t London match those Ealing, Wes of Continental ini) a ham (Aliv varieties at Villani Parm acciatta one of its lla Piana schi Frattoria de key stockists, labria) (Taste of Ca the Deli on salami with the Square in ame venison reat Glen G G Ludlow, which has carried the locally-made brand for four green pepper months. m (Thomas Shop owner Maggie Wright does “a fantastic job” ris French ha Prince de Pa promoting the product through tastings, according to Albagnac) Forest Pig’s Sally Levell. ham illo Serrano The producer has also won new listings at Primrose Fine Jamones Ros Foods on the Isle of Wight and Macknade Fine Foods in lect) (Spanish Se Faversham, Kent.

Forest Pig uses meat from 12-month-old pigs that forage in the Wyre Forest in collaboration with Forestry Commission projects, with “minimal supplementary feeding”, says Levell.

Best-selling salamis include walnut saucisson, spiced walnut, and hazelnut & Champagne.

Sliced salami is available in 50g packs for £1.70 (RRP £2.50) while small, wrapped versions cost £5.50 (RRP £8).

Top sellers…

www.clonakiltyblackpudding.ie

Spanish food importer The Tapas Lunch Company has launched a mixed meat pack, which contains 30g each of cecina (cured beef), chorizo, lomo (pork loin), salchichon (Spanish salami) and Jamon. The firm says that these 150g packs (trade £2.45, RRP £3.50) make an instant Spanish meat platter. www.thetapaslunchcompany.co.uk

www.forestpig.com

Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012

39

OUT NOW! Our new 2012 catalogue, with over 300 of the finest foods from Spain, including new hams and charcuterie, cheeses and chocolates, and our new own-brand range of Spanish salsas!

in S n U ,o IT 6 d IS ll n 0 V a ta 15 H S I

salami - chorizo - pepperoni - smoked venison - bresaola winning Charcuterie made made with pure wildwild venison AwardAward winning Charcuterie with pure venison sustainably sourced from the Scottish Highlands. sustainably sourced from the Scottish Highlands.

Contact Anja – Tel: 01397 712121 · Email: info@greatglengame.co.uk www.greatglengame.co.uk

salami - chorizo - pepperoni - smoked venison - bresaola

Come, see and taste our products at the Food & Drink Expo, or ask for a catalogue today. With no minimum order and next-day delivery throughout the UK, let us bring the best of Spanish food right to your door.

Speciality Importer of the Year 2008 telephone 01865 340055 | info@delicioso.co.uk | www.delicioso.co.uk

s 9 it u 15 ing Vis nd I tast a a St or on ll 6 f Ha

Exhibit at this year’s Shrewsbury Flower Show and be part of 125 years of history!

More than 50,000 potential customers 10% off trade stands for HEFF members Wide range of stand prices, locations and packages Dedicated foodhall and trade stand areas

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10th &11th August 2012 For more information call 01743 234050 or visit www.shrewsburyflowershow.org.uk Charity Number: 501564

40

March 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 2

in association with

product update

charcuterie Adlington is pushing its premium smoked turkey to the fore this year, highlighting the difference between its product and those from factoryscale poultry operations.

“It seems to me the cooked turkey market is split in two – the more processed products, and ours,” says director Rod Adlington.

The company’s smoked turkey is available in 4kg and 2kg slicing joints, in catering packs and in 125g pre-packs. “But slicing it on a meat slicer is the best way to sell it,” says Adlington.

The company retreated from a highly artisan style smoked turkey because the natural “crusty” finish could leave retailers with wastage.

It adopted a new technique of smoking the birds in frames for an hour and a half to set the meat into a good shape for slicing, then removing the frame to complete the smoking process.

“There’s no injection of water and no colouring,” says Adlington.

“It’s just smoked and cooked – it’s very gentle.” www.adlingtonltd.com

Top sellers…

of Rothbury … at Tully’s land Nor thumber

e) m (Freshfayr ed Danish ha owcliffe) cky ham (R Reinert Bla cliffe) chorizo (Row Gran Villar d’Auvergne l Saucisson Georges Thio m paté rian mushroo Suma vegeta e) mi (Rowcliff pepper sala k ac bl rt ne Rei

Home-cook

Rowcliffe has added several Negroni products to its charcuterie range at the tail end of last year. The distributor now offers Tuscan Finocchiona salami (trade £11.95/kg RRP £19.84/kg), flavoured with fennel seeds; a spicy Ventricina salami (trade £12.55/kg RRP £20.83/kg); and a garlic Sopressa Veneta salami (trade £12.35/kg RRP £20.50kg). All three weigh 3kg.

Whole 5kg San Daniele hams are available to the trade for £19.93 kg and have an RRP of £27.89. Spinata Romaine salami (trade £14.94/kg RRP £24.80/kg) and Bresaola (trade £30.74/kg RRP £51.03/kg) both come in 2kg sizes. Rowcliffe also offers a range of Negroni pre-packed meats, including pancetta and whole salamis, for the chiller cabinet. www.rowcliffe.co.uk

Trealy Farm Charcuterie has created a Monmouthshire smoked sausage, in the style of French Morteau smoked sausages. The product, available for a wholesale price of £10.50/kg (approx. eight sausages), is ready to eat but can also be roasted or used in casseroles. It is available in a variety of meats – pork, beef, venison or lamb.

The firm has also recently developed a smoky carpaccio-style air-dried lamb (wholesale £29.50/kg), which is softer than other air-dried products that it makes and intended to be sold whole.

Suffolk Salami Co has added two new lines to its range for 2012. It will now offer its fennel salami in an extra wide casing. The product, which the producer says is a response to customers’ demands, is available as a 2kg whole (£14.25/kg) and will soon be available sliced and prepacked.

Meanwhile the firm has developed a piquant chorizo, made with three types of paprika – sweet, bittersweet and hot smoked.

The chorizo comes in 180g packs of two and is available to the trade in cases of five units for £16.55/kg.

www.trealyfarm. com

Top sellers…

… at Wally’s Deli, Cardiff

Negroni Pros ciutto di Pa rma Fiorucci Spin ata Piccante Reinert Bla cky ham

San Pareil w ild boar paté Pastrami be ef (Medallio n Chilled Fo House of Wes ods/ tphalia)

www. suffolksalami. co.uk

They’ve got it wrapped Two new UK brands offer grab-and-go charcuterie made with high welfare pork. MICHAEL LANE reports.

“I want our brand to stand for British charcuterie,” says George Rice, founder of Serious Pig, who says his snacking salami – currently produced with free range pork – makes premium British charcuterie more accessible to consumers.

It’s also less of a gamble for retailers than full-size salamis, he says. “There’s a risk in larger gauge salami,” he says. “If you don’t quite get it right, you can end up with a lot of wastage.”

Rice says his products have wider appeal because they are less salty than Continental versions, where preservation was originally the priority.

“We don’t have that tradition in this country,” he explains. “The consumer on the Continent expects

a salty product, despite all of the advances in microbiology. So ours is a better product for the layman.”

Serious Pig currently produces individually wrapped classic and chilli & paprika salamis (trade price £1.05, RRP £1.50-£2) and is launching a fennel variety (trade £1.25, RRP £2-£2.50).

It is also developing packs of air-dried snacking ham, which Rice says is similar to biltong, in two varieties – original and smoked chilli & ginger.

Matthew Chiles, co-founder of British chorizo producer The Bath Pig, says there is room for more charcuterie companies as the market expands.

“What we want to do is sell products people recognise,” he says.

“We don’t want to scare them off with products like lomo.

“We want to bridge the gap between the sophisticated Trealy Farm bunch and your common Sainsbury charcuterie platter.”

Chiles says he “focused on chorizo because a lot of chefs were using it, but none of it came from Britain”.

Currently the firm produces individually wrapped 130g chorizos (trade £2.29, RRP £3.49) in three flavours – original, spicy, and garlic & herb – and is soon to offer 200g packs of cooking chorizo (RRP £3.30) and 200g packs of olive-sized tapas chorizo. All are made from RSPCA Freedom Food pork. www.seriouspig.co.uk www.thebathpig.com

Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012

41

AOC, the sign of special products...

A traditional cheese

The cheese of western Switzerland, with a delicate, distinguished flavour.

Made since at least 1115 AD in and around the small town of Gruyères, today it is still produced by village cheese dairies in western Switzerland according to the traditional recipe.

Le Gruyère AOC owes its characteristic delicacy and flavour to the top quality raw milk produced by cows fed on grass in the summer and hay in winter, coupled with the skill of the mastercheesemakers.

No less than 400 litres of fresh milk are needed to produce a single wheel weighing around 35kg.

During the slow maturation process, which takes several months in special cheese cellars, the wheels are turned regularly and rubbed down with saltywater. The maturing process lasts between five and 18 months.

Each cheese is systematically identified by the number of the mould and code of the cheese dairy. The day and month of production are also noted on the wheel. These black markings are made with casein, the cheese protein. No artificial additives are involved here either.

Le Gruyère AOC takes pride of place on any cheese platter. It makes for a delicious desert and can be used in tasty warm dishes. What’s more, no real fondue would be complete without genuine Gruyère AOC.

From this time on, the name ‘Gruyère AOC’ and the code of the production facility appears on the heel of each wheel of Gruyère AOC as an effective way of preventing fakes and guaranteeing authenticity.

This technique employs branding irons, which give an indentation in the wheel. It is this marking that makes it possible to identify and trace each individual cheese.

The humidity and rind washing process develops the characteristic appearance of the cheese and assists in bringing the cheese into full maturity.

This is what gives Le Gruyère AOC its famous, distinct flavour. It’s no great surprise that this authentic gift of nature is appreciated by cheeselovers throughout the world.

www.gruyere.com ruyere.com Cheeses from Switzerland.

Switzerland. Naturally.

38 March 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 2

www.switzerland-cheese.com

show preview

Under one roof For its second outing, William Reed’s Farm Shop & Deli Show will be joined at the hip with the biennial Food & Drink Expo

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his year’s Farm Shop & Deli Show will run alongside Food & Drink Expo, held at the Birmingham NEC from March 25-27.

The speciality food show, which launched last year, will have a dedicated area alongside Expo in the centre’s gargantuan Hall 6, home to more than 500 stands.

Among the producers on show will be Trotters Independent Condiments (stand B126), showcasing new additions such as its uncooked Uncle Allan’s chutney, as well as honey specialist Ogilvy’s (D168) and Littlepod (B140), which has a range of vanilla-based products.

Other exhibitors with new products include East Anglia’s Little Melton Gourmet Yoghurt (C163) and Feeding Your Imagination (C169) with its traditional fair-trade chocolate bars.

Thirsty visitors may want to pay a visit to Mr Fitzpatrick’s (C121), whose newest cordial is made with English elderflower & Bramley apple, or Septimus Spyder Drinks (A119), which has a range of soft drinks, ginger beers and real ales. Those looking for something stronger can try Spencerfield Spirit Company’s (C159) new fruit-infused versions of its Edinburgh Gin or a special edition of its Sheep Dip whisky aged in Oloroso Sherry casks.

The Guild of Fine Food will be on stand B118, providing information on the benefits of Guild membership, the training courses it offers, and Fine Food Digest as well as advising on entry to the Great Taste Awards.

On the technical side, Retail Computer Solutions (C161) will be demonstrating its latest multichannel EPoS system with integrated E-commerce functions while Sussexbased South Coast Systems (C157) will be debuting its exclusive backoffice software package, Dimension.

Meanwhile, Farm Shop & Deli Live – the area’s live events theatre – will be hosting a full programme of demonstrations, interactive debates and tastings focused on helping speciality retailers improve their businesses.

The first day will see a number of deli owners giving talks on improving service as well as a presentation from Wild Trail Foods owner Gordon Leatherdale on retail

food expert and chef Mark Lloyd will be hosting two sessions, including a cookery demo.

Speciality food businesses are not just confined to the Farm Shop & Deli area. A number of regional and national groups will have showcase stands nearby at Food & Drink Expo including Wales the True Taste, Scotland Food and Drink, Northern Ireland Naturally, Taste of the West, Deliciouslyorkshire and Heart of England Fine Food.

A host of speciality producers have taken stands in the main Expo area such as Stokes Sauces (E178), hand roasted coffee firm Littles (F120d), Chinese tea specialist Lu Lin Tea (D188), and Fudge Kitchen (F192), which has a new Drinking Fudge gift set.

Visitors to Food & Drink Expo automatically gain free access to Farm Shop & Deli as well as the other co-located shows including National Convenience Show, Foodex and Forecourt & Fuel Equipment Show.

Organiser William Reed Exhibitions is hoping for similar visitor numbers to 2010’s Expo, which totaled more than 26,000. www.foodanddrinkexpo.co.uk

NEED TO KNOW Venue National Exhibition Centre, Birmingham This year, Farm Shop & Deli Show, which includes a live theatre area (below), will be held in the same hall as Food & Drink Expo at the NEC

How do I get there?

The NEC is accessible via the M1, M5, M6, M6 Toll, M40 and M42.

It is signposted on motorways and major roads.

Visitors can travel directly by train to The NEC by alighting at Birmingham International station, which can be reached via Birmingham New Street.

Birmingham International Airport (BHX) is located close to the NEC and is served by a free Air-Rail Link.

trends. Guild of Fine Food director John Farrand will be speaking on the second day and he will also feature on a panel of “dragons” – including buyers from John Lewis and The Garden Centre Group – assessing

pitches from four producers.

Other speakers will include cheese wholesaler Paxton & Whitfield’s sales director Jeremy Bowen and distributor Pride of Place’s director Mark Dawkins. Wild

How do I register?

Registration for this trade-only event is free on the show website: www.foodanddrinkexpo.co.uk

Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012

43

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March 2012 路 Vol.13 Issue 2

shelftalk

products, packaging & promotions

The producer and wholesaler has come over all red, white and blue – well, almost…

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Cottage Delight taps appeal of all things British

By MICK WHITWORTH

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Homely recipes like SU P P Dumpsie Dearie jam, with packaging based on pastel versions of the Union flag, feature in a new Cottage Delight range created to cash in on 2012’s two key marketing opportunities.

The Great British Pantry is designed to tap into enthusiasm for heritage and tradition generated by the Diamond Jubilee and Olympics.

It comprises 27 products, varying in RRP from £2.35 for cherry & walnut fudge to £14.95 for a cream tea gift box containing a scone mix, sultanas, long-life clotted cream and strawberry extra jam.

The new selection went on sale at the start of last month, with Cottage Delight offering a free case of product with larger orders plus Great British Pantry point-of-sale kits and bunting.

Cottage Delight's Great British Pantry features a cream tea gift box Sales director Gary Johnston said and blue colour schemes or London the aim was to encourage buyers imagery in favour of a more subtle to create a single high-impact, look that would not deter retailers tabletop display rather than slotting worried about getting caught with a handful of the new lines on-shelf stock of heavily themed among existing products. products.

“It’s obviously about “It makes a nod to the space and budget,” he told Olympics and Jubilee,” he FFD, “but if people execute said, “but at the Spring it right they will get the Fair [at the NEC in early return from it because February] there was an of the hype around the abundance of red, white Jubilee and the Olympics and blue, so I was glad this year. If people just take we didn’t do that. One three chutneys, it’s not Scottish garden centre going to tell the story.

Gary Johnston: client bought into it “I believe delis should ‘Tell a story’ straight away because it create theatre. They do wasn’t too British.” a wonderful job at Christmas, so The Great British Pantry range why not do the same with the two looks set to be extended after 2012, events we’re all going to be talking Johnston added. “Because of the about this year?” reception we’ve had we’re already Cottage Delight’s in-house looking at some specific Christmas design team came up with the products,” he said. nostalgic look for the new range.

Johnson rejected obvious red, white www.cottagedelight.co.uk LI E

What’s in it?

The Great British Pantry range includes three varieties of jam, three chutneys, fudge, barley sugar, two styles of biscuit, elderflower and ginger cordials and two gift packs: a cream tea selection and British biscuit selection.

Recipes created specifically for the range include a sherry trifle extra jam, with strawberry, raspberry & vanilla, and all-butter Empire biscuits, as well as four beers produced by Staffordshire Brewing Co – owned by Cottage Delight chairman Nigel Cope – with seaside postcard-style labels and names such as Pleasure Beach and Freak Wave.

There are also new table sauces For Fish & Chips (tangy tomato), For Bangers & Mash (caramelised onion chutney) and For Pie & Chips (mustard & horseradish).

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New recipes have been developed specifically for the British Pantry range

boxes and wine bags.

“Rather than buying Union Jack trays for £2, we’re suggesting customers accessorise existing products with tags or ribbons costing 30-40p”, says director Andrew Wilson.

“If someone finds they have 50 Union Jack tags left they can then use them for seasonal British food hampers, rather than having something specifically ‘Olympics’ or ‘Jubilee’.” www.wbc.co.uk

Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012

45

shelftalk

CHEF’S SELECTION

Top chefs tell CLARE HARGREAVES their deli essentials

comparable product to Mr Trotter’s.

“We’re targeting an RRP of £1 in The boss of premium pork all our stockists. Some foodhall scratchings supplier Awfully customers obviously sell for more Posh hopes to build “a really than this but it’s important to me strong, loyal customer base” in the that we’re offering our products at a independent sector after coming up reasonable price. against the PR muscle of the pricier “We use just as high quality Mr Trotter’s brand in one of its major ingredients as Mr Trotter’s but our foodhall outlets.

RRP is £1 where Mr Trotter’s is Awfully Posh, run by Tom Lock, £1.89. For me, premium shouldn’t launched in the pub market last necessarily come with a premium summer with its Anglesey Sea Salt price tag.” ‘crackling’ before picking up listings Both brands are made by thirdby Fortnum & Mason, Harrods, party manufacturers. Awfully Posh Harvey Nichols, Partridges and is made by Green Top Snacks in Whole Foods Market.

Tamworth, Staffs, where it is fried It also went into Selfridges but twice to achieve its “trademark has seen orders there dry up since crispiness”, then sprinkled with the exclusive launch in the Oxford premium Anglesey sea salt.

Street store of Mr Trotter’s, whose partners include food writers Tom www.awfullyposhsnacks.co.uk Parker Bowles and Matthew Fort and PR man Rupert Ponsenby. The trio have used their contacts to get good coverage for Mr Trotter’s in national consumer media.

Lock said Awfully Posh had been a top seller in Selfridges’ Best of British promotion but he could not compete with the “PR juggernaut” of Tom Parker Bowles.

He will now be courting delis and farm shops after signing with several distributors including Cotswold Fayre and Tree of Life. A second flavour, Scorchingly Hot Chilli, is to be launched shortly.

Lock believes buyers will be attracted by a significantly lower price RRP for Awfully Posh is 99p, against £1.79 point on what he says is a for Mr Trotter’s EDITE CR

RockFish Seafood & Chips and The Seahorse, Dartmouth; RockFish Grill & Seafood Market, Bristol www.mitchtonks.co.uk

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By MICK WHITWORTH

Mitch Tonks

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Freestone back with new cereal Kate Freestone, a co-founder of Rude Health, has launched a new brand of organic premium cereals – Kate’s Originals – starting with muesli and a porridge mix.

Freestone, who moved on from Rude Health in 2008 to work with other cereal firms, told FFD: “Retailers told me that there was a market for premium, pure muesli.

Too often, producers sneak in sugar or salt, or dumb down the ingredients. [Independents] don’t want to buy a brand that you can get buy-one-get-one-free in Tesco.”

Freestone’s classic muesli comes in 500g (RRP £4.79) and1kg (RRP £8.59) bags. Kate’s Originals’ fruity porridge, which features apricots, date and apples, comes in 500g (RRP £4.69) and 1kg (RRP 8.39)

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March 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 2

bags. Both products – made with British oats – are available from distributor Marigold Health Foods.

Freestone, who also works in PR, is currently putting the finishing touches to her Ultimate muesli, which will be available soon, and has a number of other cereal mixes in development. www.katesoriginals.me

Chris Terry

Awfully Posh pushes price message as it fights against ‘PR juggernaut’

Ravida extra virgin olive oil www.ravida.it

This oil, produced on an old family estate at Menfi on the southwest coast of Sicily, is pale, grassy, and gives a real lift to seafood. It’s wasted mixed with vinegar. I like to chargrill some bread, spread it with garlic and drizzle on some Ravida – superb dunked in some clam or mussel juice. I also love this oil naked on grilled fish like sole, almost as a seasoning – its wonderful peppery flavour stands out.

Forum vinegar www.lefktro.co.uk

This full bodied wine vinegar is made in collaboration with a Catalonian restaurant in Barcelona called Ca L’Isidre, and it’s the only vinegar I’ll use in a salad dressing. It’s aged in oak barrels and has a lovely bittersweetness. There is a tangy Cabernet Sauvignon vinegar and a golden Chardonnay one. I use the red to dress a tomato salad, or to make a black butter to serve with skate with a dash of Balsamic. This vinegar also gives tomato sauces an extra zing. I source it from Lefktro, based in Somerset, who import and distribute vinegars and oils.

Garum colatura www.gourmelli.co.uk

This is an amber-coloured anchovy sauce made from an ancient Roman recipe from Italy’s Amalfi coast. Anchovies are salted, then packed in chestnut wood barrels for at least five months, and garum is the liquid that’s distilled after it’s all fermented. In contrast to Asian fish sauces, it’s subtle and aromatic rather than pungent and powerful. It’s good in tomato salads and dressings to give a depth of flavour. I throw a splash of it onto a plateful of spaghetti or clams and also use it on my caramelised onion flatbread. I buy my garum in Tuscany but it’s also easy to get it online (available from Gourmelli).

Urbani dried porcini mushrooms (Grade A) www.urbanitartufi.it

These are not to be used for sauces, as they’re whole porcini mushrooms and still have their shape. They come from the chestnut and beech woods in Italy’s Apennine mountains. Soak them in a mixture of milk and warm water and they double in size.

When cooked they have a wonderful nutty, woody taste that adds flavour and depth to anything you cook them with. I love them in a stew with clams, some sherry, and some olive oil. The porcini act like a sponge, taking on the flavour of the shellfish. I’ve bought these at a number of delis, and I’ve also ordered them on Amazon.

South Devon Chilli Farm Serrano chilli sauce www.southdevonchillifarm.co.uk

This green sauce is made from the medium-hot Mexican Serrano chilli, that’s picked green. It’s a bit like a Tabasco, but thicker and more intense as it contains a far higher percentage of chilli.

The fresh chillies are mixed with cider vinegar, fresh lemon juice and salt. My favourite way of using it is blitzed up with avocado, just as they would in Mexico, to make guacamole. I serve it with seabass that I’ve cured with orange salt, then diced and mixed with red onion, celery, mint, coriander and lime. I buy it wholesale, but in 100ml retail bottles, as a little goes a long way.

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12:33:25

From the home of fish Visi on t us C167 stand Sho at Farm p& sho Deli w

Deli cio

Handmade Stornoway Water Biscuits in various flavours from the Isle of Lewis

EST INGREDIEN TS HE FIN us fishc akes USING T The Chapman Family have been involved in the seafish industry in Grimsby for over fifty years.

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Over which time they have amassed invaluable knowledge especially with regards to recognizing and sourcing the best fish available.

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Like many Grimsby housewives, the late Mavis Chapman had her own recipe for fishcakes using the fish that husband Terry would fetch from work.

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Now, her sons Kevin and Paul have taken this recipe to produce a traditional fishcake, and using their mum’s principal of incorporating only the finest ingredients, they manufacture a range of fishcakes.

A taste of Hebridean tranquility

Based in Grimsby, Lincolnshire, Kevin and Paul have the pick of the fish from local producers and the pick of the crop of Maris Piper potatoes from local growers.

email riversidefs@btconnect.com

www.chapmansfishcakes.co.uk

telephone 01472 269871

01851702733 sales@stagbakeries.co.uk www.stagbakeries.co.uk Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012

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1012 Mason Lee cheese advert_Layout 1 12/11/2010 14:03 Page 1

Packaging & Creative Presentation

FR EE

w on t o s 1 a Sh it u 15 eli Vi s d B & D an p st ho S rm Fa

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March 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 2

With more than 40 unique designs these talented artisan chocolatiers produce original hand made Belgian chocolate stiletto shoes, handbags and hats and a luxury range of exceptional chocolate pralines with fresh ganache centres such as strawberry and balsamic caramel — utterly delicious www.chocorico.co.uk www.lemarechocolat.co.uk

Rice bran oil debut

RICE BRAN PRODUCTS info@ricebranproducts.co.uk

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North African spices

BESPOKE FOODS

HOUSE OF DORCHESTER www.hodchoc.com

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House of Dorchester has sourced locally produced mint oil for its latest creation – British Bittermints. The product is EDITE CR

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Dorset Cereals and Abel & Cole – plays on the pebbles of Dorset’s iconic Chesil Beach.

The company can produce in batches of up to 250kg and has been smoking a tonne of haddock a week for Bridport fish merchant Samways. But Firth said Chesil Smokery had “ignored price points” to develop the best possible products. “We’re producing up to a standard, not down to a price. I don’t want to be chasing volume at low margins. I’m not interested in serving supermarkets.”

Farmed salmon is being bought from the Shetlands, where strong currents mean well-muscled fish.

“Norwegian fish would be 55% cheaper, but the difference is huge,” said Firth, adding that the deal with Caviar House – which also has stores at Heathrow and Gatwick airports

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www.freshspicecompany.com www.seymoursofengland.com

Bespoke Foods now offers Thai Taste coconut milk in 180ml pouches, which have been designed to reduce the wastage in home kitchens that often occurs with larger format tinned coconut milk. The packs, available exclusively from Bespoke, also feature recipes and Thai cooking tips for making soups, curries and desserts using the product.

Trade cases, which contain 12 units, are available for £12.60.

Norfolk-based oils and dressing supplier Seymours of England has created a range of eight hand-roasted North African spice blends under a new brand.

The Fresh Spice Company’s blends – Baharat, Berberay, Chermoula, Dukkah, Harissa chilli paste, Ras al hanout, Tagine, and Za’atar – are available in jars and in hessian sacks for selling loose (RRP £2.99 for 50g).

Every order also comes with free recipe cards to give away to customers.

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‘We’re focusing on the net,’ says stylish smokery brand

By MICK WHITWORTH

This new brand of low acidity Greek olive oil is seeking distribution into independent retailers. The firm, which produces extra virgin oil from Cretan Koroneiki olives, says its product has less than 0.3% acidity – standard olive oils have around 0.8%. The oil is available in 250ml (RRP £4.99), 500ml (RRP £8.99), and 1 litre (RRP £14.99) bottles.

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Peppermint chocolates

www.myolivebranch.co.uk

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Foodservice business Deli Conti says its new 12” stone-baked pizza bases are ideal for delis with food-togo offerings but it also suggests that retailers could use them to make oven-ready pizzas for sale from chillers. The 220g bases – launched under the Nottinghamshire-based firm’s Gusto brand – come frozen in cases of 25 for £30. The product, which is twice leavened to make it lighter, can be cooked from frozen or defrosted and kept in the fridge for up to four days before cooking.

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Thursday Cottage’s Jules & Sharpie brand has added a hot apple & rosemary jelly to its range of hot pepper condiments and jams. The producer says the jelly – made with apple juice, rosemary and habanero chillies – complements pork dishes as well as soft goats’ cheese. The jelly is available in 300g jars and has an RRP of £3.25.

S U P LI E P

The co-founder of a new high-end smoked foods brand says web sales will remain its focus, despite a retail listing with Harrods concessionaire Caviar House & Prunier.

Chesil Smokery was set up late last summer by Dorset trout farmer Mark Firth, along with Perry Haydn Taylor of marketing agency Big Fish and a silent partner with online retailing credentials.

The three took over the former Bridfish smokery in Bridport after it ceased trading last June. Local smoking specialist David Mitchell, formerly of Kingcombe Smokery, was brought in to create a range including smoked salmon, trout, venison loin and duck breast.

Products come in sleeved retail vac-packs, catering packs and a choice of £40 mixed boxes for online shoppers. Branding created

by Big Fish – whose clients include

Low acid olive oil

www.julesandsharpie.co.uk

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D

The Wiltshire firm has redesigned the packaging of its cereal bar and flapjack range. The five varieties – banana, mango & Brazil nut; crispy chocolate & rice; apple, apricot & sultana; apple & sultana flapjack; and butter flapjack – are sold in boxes of five 40g bars with RRPs of between £1.69 and £2.88. Trade cases contain 12 boxes. Doves Farm also supplies 16-bar cases for individual sale with each unit retailing for between 49p and 80p.

EDITE CR

JULES & SHARPIE D

www.dovesfarm.co.uk

Hot jelly

DELI CONTI

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S U P LI E P

made with 70% dark chocolate and features a fondant centre infused with English Mitcham peppermint oil from Hampshire. Each 140g box has an RRP of £10 and features nine individual chocolates. Trade cases contain 12 boxes.

what's new

Cardiff-based Rice Bran Products is the UK’s first importer and distributor of King rice bran oil, made by the Thai Edible Oil Co. The oil, which has a high smoke point and contains no trans fatty acid, is a source of vitamin E and Oryzanol – an antioxidant not found in other vegetable oils. 500ml bottles are available in trade packs of 24, while 1 litre bottles come in cases of 12.

EDITE CR

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shelftalk

Looking for suppliers accredited by the Guild of Fine Food?

Follow the logo

S U P LI E P

Littlepod breaks the mould with vanilla ale

Products include retail vac-packs and homedelivery gift boxes in classy packaging

– would not have been won using cheap raw materials.

Chesil Smokery offers the trade a 33% discount on its RRPs. “I’d love to do trade accounts and will happily support them,” said Firth, “but we won’t be falling over ourselves to win trade orders.

One of my key investors has a real in-depth knowledge of the online market and at the end of the day, I know my holiday in Barbados is going to come from the 80% we sell direct to the consumer.” www.chesilsmokery.com

Vanilla specialist Littlepod has made a radical departure from its current range with its latest product – a dark ale made in partnership with a local brewery.

The firm says it has developed the 6% ABV honey & vanilla beer with Devon micro-brewery Hunter’s in order to show the versatility of vanilla as an ingredient. The beer, which comes in 330ml bottles, will initially be available as part of a hamper that Littlepod has developed to mark the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee but the firm hopes to roll it out as a separate line later in the year.

Littlepod’s hampers, which will be available to retailers direct for £60, will include the Devon-based firm’s vanilla pods, extract and paste as well a new coffee extract. Special edition vanilla soap and chocolate and vanilla fudges have also been developed by other local firms exclusively for the hamper. www.littlepod.co.uk www.thehuntersbrewery.co.uk

Vol.13 Issue 2 ·March 2012

49

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March 2012 路 Vol.13 Issue 2

shelftalk

Fresh patisserie and (below right) organic bread baked in-house are sited by the main entrance, sending a signal that this is no ordinary c-store

So Spar, so good Deli of the Month INTERVIEW BY MICK WHITWORTH

A Walthamstow convenience store, featured as Deli of the Month? Don’t knock it – they’re shifting more fine food than most independents could even dream of

I

t took four months of emails and phone calls for James Brundle to convince me his north London Spar shop was worth a visit. Once I was there, it took about five minutes to see why he was right.

If you’re ever within striking distance of Walthamstow, get over to the Village Stores in Orford Road and take a look at this operation, because it’s extraordinary.

Yes, it’s an urban c-store – named the best in the country at the 2011 Convenience Retailing Awards – but it’s unlike any you’ve seen before.

There’s the in-house pizzeria, the in-house organic scratch bakery making upwards of 200 organic loaves a day, the craft beer selection that is wider than you’ll see in most specialist off-licences, and – cunningly distributed among the Heinz ketchups and McVitie’s biscuits – as strong a selection of speciality foods as you’ll find in many a deli or farm shop. The Village Stores is shifting £2,000-worth of its own fresh

ready-meals every week and around £1,500 worth of cheese.

Total weekly sales are approaching £50,000. Read ’em and weep.

But what’s most impressive, to my eye, is the way Brundle and his step-brother and business partner Chris O’Connor are employing mainstream retail disciplines – planograms, tight stock control, constant re-dressing of shelves – while still creating a shop with a genuine point of difference and real ‘speciality’ credentials. “We didn’t want to be solely a deli or solely a c-store,” says Brundle, “so we’ve merged the two, and the concept has worked really well.”

In fact, when the partners began trading in Orford Road six years ago it was with a traditional deli. Two years later they opened a restaurant, Eat 17, next door, which is now the domain of self-taught chef O’Connor. When eventually they took on the scruffy off-licence next door, they extended Eat 17, closed the deli and created a new, bigger shop that combined the best

of their old retail operation with a mainstream convenience store.

They opted to work under the banner of symbol group Spar, via wholesaler A. F. Blakemore, because it understood what the brothers wanted to achieve and didn’t insist

Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012

51

shelftalk on being the shop’s chief supplier.

“We’d looked at Budgens too, but they’re very picky about how much you buy through them,” says Brundle. “A lot of the Budgens operators are happy to all do the same thing. Blakemore understand that what we’re trying to do brings more people through the door.

“Now we order all our everyday items through them, but we also use a lot of fine food who lesalers – Cotswold Fayre, Rowcliffe, Liberty Wines – and we buy direct from some small suppliers. And Blakemore leave us alone, because of the amount we sell and the reputation we’ve got. In fact, they’re quite encouraging – they see us a flagship store.

“At the end of the day, it’s their name above the door and they don’t want something that reflects badly on them.”

While the shop fascia carries a Spar logo, the colours are distinctly different. Brundle and O’Connor have stretched the subtle Eat17 colours across the two premises – the first signal that this is a Spar with a difference. The next comes as you walk in the door to be greeted by a self-service patisserie, stocked with a combination of sweet treats, made in-house (cookies, banana bread) and by London-based Galette (croissants, macaroons), and a fullheight display of the shop’s own organic bread. “We wanted it to look different as soon as you walk in,” says Brundle, “so it’s bang!

Patisserie and bread, straight away.

“We don’t do bake-off, we don’t do Delice de France. You won’t come in this store and see a curry slice sitting there at 10 o’clock at night. We try to offer something unique.”

Facing the bread shelves is a fresh produce display combining conventional fruit and veg with organic specialities such as flower

sprouts, mung beans and salad specialities from Turners Fine Foods. leaves. A food-to-go chiller, also They include Tunworth, Shropshire near the main entrance, features Blue, Colston Bassett Stilton and vegetarian sandwiches and wraps Appleby’s Cheshire. “We used to sell from London-based Laura’s Ideas, loose cheese over the counter when alongside (and outselling) standard we had the deli,” says Brundle.

Spar sarnies. Pies and sausage rolls “But people were worried about come from Simply Pies, based at asking the price and towards the Shropshire’s Treflach Farm. “They’re end of the deli we started doing not local, but they’re fantastic,” says pre-packs. Now our cheese sales Brundle. are probably four or five times what And then there’s a fixture they were. We do cheeses that the full of ambient speciality brands, supermarkets don’t, but people can including Tracklements, Pickled just pick them up and go.”

Village and Love Jam preserves, On ambient goods, the Village Bim’s African sauces, Pukka Teas and Stores looks for a margin of just 27Union Coffee 28% – low by – a serious A lot of it boils the standards selection, but of most delis, down to energy. few enough but here it’s You have to try to allow for a all about things. degree of block footfall. “A lot merchandising of delis and James Brundle so each brand farm shops I makes an go in do have impact. And that includes a big higher prices,” Brundle says, “but yellow block of Bacon Jam, the relish the successful ones are not sky-high. developed at Eat17 and produced Everyone has a different take on it, for the brothers by Patchwork but the model we’ve adopted works in North Wales. Bacon Jam was for us.” launched at Olympia last September While the margin on ambient and is now sold in around 150 goods is tight, the store is achieving independents after picking up 50% gross on its own chilled readydistribution through Cotswold Fayre. meals compared with the 27% From here on in, the specialities on its Spar-branded meals, and are mostly mixed in with the considerably more on its pizzas and mainstream offer: Quai Sud Riz au organic bread. Loaves are priced Lait at £5.49 sited alongside Spar at £1.70 each, and the typical rice pudding at £1.29; Cream-Nut 200-a-day sales will be nearer 300 peanut butter from US firm Coetze at the weekends.

Co at £4.59 alongside (and again Ready-meals have proved vital outselling) Sunpat at £2.14. “There’s in improving net margins. Across no harm in giving people the the store, chilled sales are around option,” says Brundle. £10k-12k per week, and wastage The exceptions are in nonused to run at 6%. This is now foods. “There are not that many down to 2% as the pizza chefs use speciality cat litter people out slack periods to make meals from there,” he jokes. “But where we can any produce that is getting close to experiment we really go for it.” its date.

Cheeses, all in pre-packs, are The in-house pizzeria has mostly from Rowcliffe’s Clemency also proved a huge asset. It sells Hall range, topped up by a few a limited menu of just eight or

❛

❜

Whether it’s cupcakes or a fixture packed with serious speciality food brands, it’s all about ‘staying interesting’, says Brundle

nine varieties, made and cooked on the spot by one of the store’s two Italian pizza chefs. “It’s a really good way to create an atmosphere,” says Brundle, “and has been a phenomenal success. In the evenings you can’t move at the pizza counter.

“We don’t deliver. We don’t take phone orders. People shop while they wait.”

The pizzeria exemplifies the discipline in the whole operation.

Asked if he has been tempted to broaden the hot food range, Brundle says: “Yes, but one thing Eat17 has taught us is not to have a huge menu. It’s better to do one thing really well – that’s what you’ll be known for.

“Franco Manca [the London pizza chain] are reckoned to be about the best, and they only do about six types. Poilane, the French bakery, is basically known for one kind of sourdough loaf. You can still be creative and keep it exciting, but keep it simple too.”

Walking the floor with Brundle, I notice that a lot of the best-sellers he mentions are not actually on shelf – they’ve run out – yet the store looks full and appealing. His team are constantly facing up jars and packets – some items are only one unit deep on the shelf – and remerchandising where necessary to fill a gap or try something new.

Brundle suddenly stops and says: “Let me show you something.” He takes me out to the back of the shop and shows me the stockroom.

It’s a tiny box-room – virtually empty.

“We’ve got a 3,000 sq ft shop and our stockroom is, what, 10ft by 4ft?” So that’s why there are a fair few out-of-stocks – everything goes straight on the shelf, and if it’s not there, it’s not there. “An average shop would like to hold a couple of weeks’ stock,” says Brundle, “but if your weekly turnover is £5k and you’ve got another £3k in stock, that’s no good. Our weekly turnover is £45k – which is what we’ve got on the shelves.

“It means you have to do a lot of remerchandising, but you know exactly where you are. Tying up cash in stock is a recipe for disaster.”

I’ve been trying to work out what delis can learn from Brundle and his team, with one foot in the formulaic world of c-stores. Some of it is about discipline – keeping the range down, managing stocks, sticking to a margin. But Brundle says: “I think a lot of it boils down to energy. You have to try things.

It’s no good giving up on something after a couple of days and saying, ‘That’s it, we’re doomed’. If it doesn’t work, take it off the shelf and start again. Because it’s all about staying interesting.” www.eat17.co.uk www.bacon-jam.co.uk

52

March 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 2

23 - 24 APRIL 2012 WESTPOINT, EXETER

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Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012 Source Fine food magazine-v2.indd 1

53

25/10/2011 15:43

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54

March 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 2

Food Division - suppliers of

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Vol.13 Issue 2 · March 2012

55

Crisps as they should taste.

all have won great taste awards.

www.piperscrisps.com 56

March 2012 路 Vol.13 Issue 2