FFD October-November 2017 by Guild of Fine Food

“I know I’m a freak” Planet Organic’s Renée Elliott on her healthy obsessions

ALSO INSIDE Great Taste Golden Forks French goats’ cheese Christmas inspiration

Making artisan foods with natural ingredients, free from preservatives, is my lifelong passion. My products are different from mainstream products. The smoking is key, it gives the pudding a subtle hint of added flavour. Other than that, it’s just simple food made the way your mother would bake brown bread at home”

…a careful use of smoke, which whooshes across the tongue and works in perfect harmony GT Judges 2017

As John Farrand said,

this product is a simple, humble product made using honest ingredients, with a dash of innovation and well measured twist thrown in to excite the palate.

SUPREME CHAMPION

Contact Hugh for more information or look out for “The Smokin Butcher” by Hugh Maguire coming to the UK. thesmokinbutcher@hughmaguirebutchers.com +35 3868 939964 | hughmaguirebutchers.com 2

October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

CONTENTS ARTISAN PRODUCERS

We don’t want to be a gift purchase. We want to be a regular family choice.

Wendy Darlington on sticking with tradition 5 THE BIG PICTURE 7 NEWS

GREAT TASTE GOLDEN FORK AWARDS

17 BIG INTERVIEW FFD sits down with Planet Organic’s Renée Elliott

20 OPINION Delilah’s Sangita Tryner on opening a second site, Editor’s Choice

See the highlights from the night and meet this year’s Supreme Champion

23 CHEESEWIRE French export deal for Scottish cheese, Fromagerie Jacquin’s artisan production

There are doom and gloom merchants whenever you open anything, but have confidence in yourself DELI OF THE MONTH

Papadeli

EDITORIAL

Editorial director: Mick Whitworth Editor: Michael Lane

Contributors: Nick Baines, Clare Hargreaves, Patrick McGuigan, Lynda Searby

Assistant editor: Lauren Phillips Reporter: Andrew Don

Art director: Mark Windsor

GENERAL ENQUIRIES

Tel: +44 (0) 1747 825200

Fax: +44 (0) 1747 824065

editorial@gff.co.uk ADVERTISING

advertise@gff.co.uk

Editorial production: Richard Charnley

Sales director: Sally Coley

Cover photo: Isabelle Plasschaert

Sales executives: Becky Stacey, Maria Burnett

Sales manager: Ruth Debnam

Printed by: Blackmore, Dorset ADDRESS Guild House, 23b Kingsmead Business Park Shaftesbury Road, Gillingham, Dorset SP8 5FB United Kingdom

38 CATEGORY FOCUS Store-cupboard ingredients, last-minute Christmas ideas 47 FOOD MATTERS LIVE! Reasons to visit this year’s show 51 SHELF TALK Soda Folk, Adam’s Chocolate, and sushi 2.0 63 GREAT TASTE A selection of 2017’s winners 67 GUILD OF FINE FOOD NEWS

Published by The Guild of Fine Food Ltd www.gff.co.uk

© The Guild of Fine Food Ltd 2017. Reproduction of whole or part of this magazine without the publisher’s prior permission is prohibited. The opinions expressed in articles and advertisements are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher.

Turn to page 67 for news from the Guild

Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

Ideal gifts for christmas

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October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

THE BIG PICTURE

Siop ferm bach Last issue we considered the future of the deli. This month we see a glimpse into that future with the opening of a farm shop vending machine in Cardiff. Selling local produce including meat, cheese, honey and eggs, the vending machine was created by Illtud Llyr Dunsford of Charcutier Ltd after meeting a New York EXWFKHU WUDGLQJ YLD ƓYH PDFKLQHV on the side of the road. “It’s a little bit of a novelty, but it’s great to see the reaction it’s getting,” said Dunsford. “I do hope though that people will make it a part of their regular purchases.” Photograph: Matthew Horwood

October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

NEWS

Whole Foods price cutting begins as Amazon completes takeover By Andrew Don

Amazon is committed to discounting lines in the UK stores of the recentlyacquired Whole Foods Market – a move that has “frightening” ramifications for the speciality food sector. The internet retailing colossus completed its £10.8bn acquisition on 28th August with the promise that it would “pursue the vision of making Whole Foods Market’s food affordable for everyone”. Whole Foods Market began offering lower prices on a selection of bestselling grocery staples across its nine UK stores immediately after Amazon completed the deal. Discounted lines include bananas, avocados, eggs, salmon, baby kale, baby lettuce, animal welfarerated lean minced beef, Gala apples, free-range rotisserie chicken and organic butter. Nigel Chandler, who manages Garson’s Farm

Discounting has started in Whole Foods stores as Amazon’s presence becomes more apparent

Shop in Esher, Surrey, said Amazon’s ability to bring prices down and drive more people through Whole Foods Market’s and Amazon’s shopping portals was “frightening”. Nick Hempleman, owner of Sussex Produce Company, said what Amazon is doing with Whole Foods Market is a continuation of the trend towards centralisation, homogenisation and “places becoming bigger”. Consumers might like the fact they can buy cheaper but it will be suppliers that take the hit,

he said., adding: “Unless something happens we could see a stage when we are left with almost no local retail.” Lisa Grayson, director of Court Farm Shop near Cheltenham, where there is a Whole Food Market shop, agreed it was producers that would suffer and independents would not be able to compete. But she said there would always be a place for “our kind of business”. A selection of Whole Foods Market’s “healthy and high-quality products”

IN BRIEF – including from private label brands Fresh & Wild Everyday Value, Whole Foods Market and Allegro coffee — is now available on AmazonFresh across 302 postcodes across London and the South East, and on Amazon Prime Pantry nationally and Prime Now in selected areas. Jeff Wilke, chief executive of Amazon Worldwide Consumer, said: “We’re determined to make healthy and organic food affordable for everyone. We will lower prices without compromising Whole Foods Market’s long-held commitment to the highest standards.” John Mackey, Whole Foods Market co-founder and chief executive, said: “By working together with Amazon and integrating in several key areas, we can lower prices and double down on that mission and reach more people with Whole Foods Market’s highquality, natural and organic food.”

The old round £1 will be discontinued from 15th October and the new 12-sided coin will become the only legal tender for the denomination. The Bank of England issued the new polymer £10 notes on 14th September. Scientists have developed a low-cost, portable, paper-based sensor able to detect food spoilage and contamination. Inventor Professor Silvana Andreescu said the technology could be used by smart labels that would tell people when to throw away food. Cedarbarn Farm Shop & Café in Pickering, north Yorkshire, has launched an apprenticeship scheme in a partnership with Leeds City College with a view to bridging the generation gap in its butchery department.

Sharpham and Greendale shine at 2017 Taste of the West awards Sharpham Cremet, a luxurious, mould-ripened goats’ milk cheese with added cows’ cream, has been named Supreme Champion Product at the annual Taste of the West awards. The win for the soft, pasteurised cheese, made on the Sharpham Estate near Totnes in Devon, was announced to around 400 guests at an awards ceremony at the University of Exeter’s Great Hall in September. Also among the major winners in the regional awards’ 26th year was Greendale Farm Shop in Exeter. Described by the award judges as offering “a fantastic retail experience and great value for money”, it won both the Best Butcher and Best Farm Shop title.

Winners celebrate after a ceremony at the University of Exeter

The Cheese Press in Torquay was named Best Specialist Retailer/ Delicatessen, while the Producer of the Year trophy, which rewards exceptional achievement that will inspire other businesses, went to The Traditional Free Range Egg Co in Somerset. Devon producer Happy Butter was named Best Newcomer for its organic golden turmeric ghee, while Cornish Edible Insects – whose range includes

mealworms, whole crickets and silkworm pupae – took the Innovation award. Just over 1,000 products were judged in this year’s awards, which cover a region stretching from Cornwall to Wiltshire. Organiser Taste of the West is now the UK’s largest regional food group, with a membership that also encompasses B&Bs, highend hotels, cafés, pubs and restaurants. tasteofthewest.co.uk

Quickening the pulses Hodmedod’s has harvested the first Britishgrown commercial crop of lentils. The pulse and grain specialist has worked with farmers in Suffolk, Hampshire, Wiltshire, Hertfordshire, and Sussex for the past three years on

the trial crop of organic and non-organic lentils, which totalled 500 tonnes. The lentils – a mottled green and a gun-metal grey variety – are available to the trade to order from this month in limited quantity in 500g packs. hodmedods.co.uk

Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

NEWS

New Bowland Food Hall boosted by further attractions at Clitheroe site By Andrew Don

A new 7,000 sq ft food hall, at the heart of the £10m redevelopment of Holmes Mill in Clitheroe, is hoping additional facilities on the site will boost footfall. Developer St James’ Places is poised to open a hotel and bistro, and pool, spa and gym at the upmarket destination where the Bowland Food Hall opened this summer. Holmes Mill, whose focal attraction is its yearold brewery, is looking at the opportunity to offer “foodie tours”, possibly based around some of the producers it works with that are already open to visitors. Heidi Kettle, St James’ Places group marketing manager, said: “We are hoping that through putting information in bedroombrowsers [in the new hotel] we will get people out experiencing the food not only in the food hall but at the producers’ properties

The 7,000 sq ft food hall is part of a £10m redevelopment of a Lancastrian mill

as well.” The “experiential” food hall has a grab-andgo section, a juice bar, a Citroen van full of fruit & veg, fresh counters for fish, meat, pies, cheese and deli along with beers and spirits. A counter in the middle of the shop sells Holmes Made breads and patisserie, and handmade chocolates. It also serves Bowland Boards with wine, beer or coffee.

New body emerges to tackle FSA’s enforcement plans A fledgling campaign body fighting changes to food safety enforcement is urging speciality food businesses to write to their MPs. John Golton-Davis, the director of Food Solutions, the consultancy that is spearheading the formation of the not-for-profit UK Food Forum, fears a proposed new regime could prove onerous and expensive for speciality food businesses. FFD reported in September that the Food Standards Agency (FSA) blueprint envisages the introduction of paid-for inspections carried out by private companies and the end of a onesize-fits-all approach to assessments. Golton-Davis said

every small food business in every constituency should write to their MPs. Launching at the beginning of 2018, the UK Food Forum will challenge the FSA on various aspects of Regulating our Future, (pictured) the new hygiene regime that will be phased in by 2020. Food Solutions said the UK Food Forum would speak for all small food businesses to ensure a system that was “fair for all” was introduced. REGULATING OUR FUTURE

OUR FUTURE Why food regulation needs to change and how we are going to do it

8 October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

Kettle describes the premises as “small, perfectly formed and home to lots of great [Lancashire] farmers, growers, producers and makers”. It also sells “the best of beyond” – gourmet goods from around the world that include pastas and pulses, marinades and tapenades, cheeses and chutneys. Three-quarters of products sold, excluding alcohol, are British.

Kettle said it had taken a few weeks for people to work out where the food hall fitted into their shopping habits. “For some we’re just a treat for a special occasion, for others, the go-to destination. Then there are those that see us as a destination to meet, chat and enjoy sitting at the counter with something to eat and drink.” The business has made a

few initial tweaks. After the first weekend, for example it rebuilt the juice bar because “the proportions were just not quite right”, and it added tables and then took them away again. Suppliers include Tenuta Marmorelle, Twisted Chilli, Real Lancs Black Pudding Co, Tricky Dicky, Dunsop Fisheries, Porkus and Gazegill Organics. holmesmill.co.uk/foodhall/

Unilever buyout will not change Pukka’s ethos Pukka Herbs has pledged to maintain its commitment to organics and charitable causes in the wake of its purchase by Unilever. The Anglo-Dutch multinational, which also owns the PG Tips, Lipton and Lyons tea brands, purchased the company for an undisclosed sum in September. Pukka co-founder Sebastian Pole said Pukka chose Unilever because it was “a leader in social and environmental change” and it wholeheartedly embraced Pukka’s beliefs so there was a meeting of values. He said: “Pukka will remain 100% organic and a champion for fair trading through pioneering

Pukka’s co-founders Tim Westwell and Sebastian Pole

schemes like Fair for Life, and continue to donate 1% of its sales to global environmental charities.” Pole said Unilever gave Pukka “new levels of reach and opportunity”. Kevin Havelock, Unilever’s refreshment

category president, said Pukka had strong values and a clear purpose that aligned fully with Unilever’s own sustainable growth model. “There’s a clear strategic, philosophical and cultural fit for us,” he added.

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NEWS

Indies braced as Waitrose plans to upgrade in-store “experience” By Andrew Don

Waitrose latest plans will encroach on farm shop and delicatessen territory with a focus on the experiential side of shopping and foodservice as it battles dwindling margins. Sir Charlie Mayfield, chairman of Waitrose parent John Lewis Partnership, said at last month’s interim results that Waitrose was “systematically improving the quality of the experience and service proposition”. It invested in 68 branches in the first half of the year, including the rollout of fresh sushi counters, which were now in more than 50 of its branches. Waitrose said foodservice is “an important strategic focus”, because it gives customers extra reasons to visit, and it appointed its first-ever director of food service, Simon Burdess, this summer. The supermarket chain announced pre-exceptional

Waitrose: sushi counters in more than 50 branches this year

operating profit down 17.4% in the half-year ended 29th July. Revenue climbed 2.2% to £3.1bn and like-for-like sales edged up 0.7%. Sir Charlie pointed to inflationary pressures driven by exchange rates and political uncertainty, with an increase in cost prices which put pressure on margins. “We have chosen to hold back on increasing prices across many areas,” he said. Tristan Clements, owner of Exeter delicatessen Bon Gout, considers Waitrose

“a threat, regardless of the chain’s future plans”. “They are like a big glorified delicatessen really,” he told FFD. “They hit us hard the day they opened nearby three or four years ago. Takings went down 30% but we are still here.” Clements said Waitrose could not compete on the quality of staff. “I’m not saying they don’t care but we really care for our customers. “We make a lot of stuff ourselves which you can’t get at Waitrose or anywhere

also has a florist, a café and sells artwork by Lucy Pittaway which it displays on its walls. Bread is baked fresh every day by Brickyard Bakery in Guisborough. Products include in-house

charcuterie, awardwinning pies and about 50 cheeses, many of them local, Kitson said. The other stores are in Hutton Rudby, Northallerton and Stockton-on-Tees.

Chiyo McMillan

Five Houses Farm Shop is on North Yorkshire’s Crathorne Estate

else and that makes us more exclusive.” Charles Bradford, managing director of The Gog Farm Shop, in Cambridge, said Waitrose was “always a threat even if not a direct threat.” He said that as other delis and farm shops got “wiped out”, the entire supply chain was affected. “I’d like to think we can be agile enough to outmanoeuvre that sort of threat.” The reason Waitrose is copying farm shops and delicatessens is because of their innovations and ability to spot trends and react to them quicker, said Bradford. Iain Hemming, co-owner of Thyme & Tides Deli in Stockbridge, Hampshire, however said Waitrose had to plan changes a long time ahead whereas his business could switch things up on a daily and even hourly basis as circumstances dictated. “We offer something that’s different. You have to keep evolving the offer and the experience yourself.”

Cricketer Farm Shop in Nether Stowey, Somerset, suffered a blaze last month which caused “considerable” damage to the shop and kitchens. Its Facebook page said it would be reopening at nearby Inwood Farm within a few months Surrey butcher William Dyer has opened a delicatessen in a former pet shop in Fetcham, down the road from its premises in Ashtead. The shop sells ready-meals and pies produced inhouse. “The first ever single malt whisky made in the Cotswolds” has launched this month. Cotswold Distillery has pre-sold most of the limited edition batch but another 1,500 bottles will be available in its own shop. The next batch will be released at the beginning of November.

FDF seeks assurances for EU workers post-Brexit

Kitson & Son adds multimillion pound food hall to butcher’s shop chain Kitson & Son Butchers has opened a multimillion pound food hall, Five Houses Farm Shop and Kitchen, which sells a much wider range of food than its three Kitson’s butchery stores. The new shop, estimated at about 5,000 sq ft, is housed in a Grade II-listed farm building on the Crathorne Estate, in North Yorkshire. The store had a soft opening on 8th September but Henry Kitson, director, told FFD he hoped to hold a grand opening ceremony in October. Kitson said departments included butchery, bakery, deli, organic fruit and veg and beers, wines & spirits. It

IN BRIEF

The Food and Drink Federation (FDF) has appealed for government assurances about the future of European Union (EU) workers in the UK once Brexit is implemented. Its call follows a survey it co-ordinated among members of a wider range of trade bodies in which the sector’s reliance on EU workers was laid bare. Thirty-six per cent of businesses said they would become unviable if they had no access to EU workers, 31% had seen EU nationals leave since the EU referendum and 47% said EU nationals were considering leaving the UK because of uncertainty surrounding their future. A fifth of EU nationals

working in the UK are employed in the food and drink supply sector – 30% of them in manufacturing, 18% wholesaling, 5% retailing, 12% service and 9% are permanent agricultural workers. Ian Wright, director general, of the FDF, said it was only a matter of time before the uncertainty reported by businesses resulted in an irreversible exit of EU workers – a scenario that would hurt the UK. “Without our dedicated and valued workforce we would be unable to feed the nation. This is why it is imperative that we receive assurances from Government about their future, and that of our wider workforce,” said Wright.

Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

Tuesday 21st - Thursday 23rd November 2017 ExCeL, London

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October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

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NEWS Not many people could be classified as a retailer, producer, wholesaler and exporter all at once. Ann-Marie Dyas, who passed away in September, achieved this feat with aplomb. As co-founder of and driving force behind The Fine Cheese Co, she leaves an impressive legacy in business, but her achievements in the fine food industry were also accomplished with a rare warmth of personality. Whether in her own shop, on a tradeshow stand or being interviewed by the press, Dyas displayed an infectious excitement for artisan cheese. Many tributes shared with FFD (too many to be published here) have referenced her support for small producers. Given the size and scope of The Fine Cheese Co nowadays, it is remarkable to think that the business was actually her second career. One of Dyas’s earliest memories was said to be of sitting in a pram in her grandmother’s grocery

Jason Alden

Obituary: Ann-Marie Dyas, The Fine Cheese Co

store in Mountain Ash in the Welsh valleys while her mother served. Although, it was some time before she took up the mantle herself. In the first of many bold moves, Dyas left a corporate career in advertising in the late ’80s and opened the famous shop on Bath’s Walcot Street, that remains there today. “Ann-Marie liked nothing more than to be

behind the counter in an apron,” said John Siddall, Dyas’s husband and codirector at the business. “Although we have grown, whenever a large bill would come in, Ann-Marie used to say: ‘That’s a lot of half pounds of cheddar’. She remained an independent retailer at heart, from the beginning until the end.” She was instrumental in the revival of British

artisan cheese during the early ’90s, buying direct from unknown farmhouse producers who are now stalwarts, and she took a similarly personal approach to sourcing from the Continent. “Ann-Marie used to say: ‘Seek out the best, and, when you’ve found it, keep looking’,” said Siddall. Dyas was also a trailblazer when it came

IN BRIEF

Thomas of Helmsley opens doors at new £750k combined premises

Great Taste in food hall Selfridges showcased a host of Great Taste award-winners at a five-week display in its London Foodhall during September and October. In total, 180 products were on show from 24 award-winning brands, including Dark Woods Coffee, Coal Town Coffee Roasters, Melrose & Morgan and Baghi.

Thomas of Helmsley has reopened after a £750,000 investment to create a one-stop deli, butcher and bakery complete with a new kitchen and butchery preparation area. Thomas the Bakery previously operated in a separate unit across the road in the North Yorkshire town in a property owned by the Co-op. The revamped shop will incorporate the bakery, a butcher, greengrocer, cheese and deli counters, alcohol and soft beverages and store cupboard items. It will offer more ready-to-eat meals, which necessitated the building of much larger cooking and food preparation areas. These include fresh soups and family quiches, cook-athome ready-meals such as stir-fries and lasagne. Bread

will be baked on site. Suppliers include Lishmans, Yorkshire Wold Apple Press, Taylors of Pickering, York Wines of Sheriff Hutton, Helmsley Brewery, Ampleforth Abbey and Bracken Hill of York. The refurbished deli opened on 15th September to the public and a “grand opening” took place at the end of the same month with demonstrations and samplings from celebrity chef Stephanie Moon. John Thomas, founder

to accompaniments, especially biscuits. The continued popularity of The Fine Cheese Co range she has developed over the years – especially the iconic Toast For Cheese line-up – is a testament to her innovations in NPD and expertise in branding. She and Siddall even turned their hands to running a bakery, purchasing their manufacturer Ashbourne Biscuits when its owners decided to retire during 2006. The Fine Cheese Co now supplies other independent retailers all over the world from its warehouse base in the West Country. The brand can be found across Britain and Europe as well as in the USA, Japan and Mongolia – but never on a supermarket shelf in the UK. Dyas, who received the Guild of Fine Food’s Lifetime Achievement Award in 2015, yearned to open a shop in London, and that dream was realised last year with a shop on Motcomb Street in Belgravia.

Disney’s Delicatessen in Wymondham, Norfolk, has closed. Owners David and Paula Disney thanked and informed customers via the shop’s Facebook page.

of the family business, said the shop would offer a much wider range of products than before. “Our new facilities mean we can offer many more ready-toeat products.” Thomas the Baker set up shop in 1981 with the opening of a bakery in Malton, quickly followed by Helmsley a year later. It now has 30 units across Yorkshire including a café in York and the deli in Helmsley. thomasthebaker.co.uk

Research by mySupermarket.co.uk found the price of a basket of 35 popular items came to £84.40 in August 2017, compared to £84.35 in July. Berkshire’s Alder Ridge Vineyard (owned by retailer Cobbs Farm Co) received the trophy for Best English Blanc de Noirs with its 2013 vintage at the Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships.

Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

NEWS

Closure of Bolton deli lays bare perils of failed regeneration schemes By Andrew Don

The closure of a Bolton delicatessen in September serves as a cautionary tale of how businesses can fall foul of delayed regeneration schemes. While it has suffered three burglaries in the last year, The Deli at Farnworth told FFD it was delays to redevelopmentof the town’s Market Precinct, owned by St Modwen, that forced it to close in September. “The break-ins were the final straw but it’s all to do with St Modwen,” said manager Sam Westall, son of the deli’s co-owner Stephen Westall. Regeneration specialist St Modwen bought The Market Precinct in April 2011 for £4m. Located between the town’s open market and bus station, the site included 21 units let to a range of national and local retailers. Westall said St Modwen was supposed to regenerate the area but had only just moved traders from the old

‘kiosks’ in which they traded in the past few months. He said the kiosks were blocking the shops they had been moved into, deterring potential customers. “They were going to put in a popup market but changed their minds as regeneration has fallen through,” he said. “There are only two traders left – the other is a pet shop. All the others have closed down. There’s nothing here anymore. Since they took the market away everything’s dying.” Jonathan Livesey, senior property manager for St Modwen, said the £290m turnover company had recently removed the kiosks as part of its ongoing strategy for Farnworth. “Unfortunately, due to undocumented utilities connections, we had to delay the demolition of the precinct for these additional services to be disconnected and made safe once we discovered they were running to the kiosks.

IN BRIEF Conker Spirit returned from the prestigious San Francisco World Spirits Competition with two medals. Its Dorset Dry Gin was awarded gold while Conker Cold Brew took bronze. A scientific study claims to have discovered why we love or hate Marmite. Marmite worked with genetic testing centre DNAFit to conduct a clinical trial and found people are born genetically predisposed to be like or loathe the savoury spread.

The Bolton retailer confirmed its closure on its Facebook page

“We are sorry that the owner of The Deli has taken the decision to close.” Livesey said St Modwen remained “committed to the town”. A spokeswoman for

Bolton Council said she was aware St Modwen had come across issues with the site that were outside its control but it had reassured the council it was committed to regeneration.

The first Food & Drink Business Improvement Development (BID) group, in East Lothian, is toasting its success after the opening of two new manufacturing units (NB Gin’s distillery and Chocolate Tree’s factory) and the expansion of Bellhaven Smoke House, all within a year.

ACS report: food specialists are the ‘most wanted’ Specialist food shops continue to be the most wanted service on the high street – for the third consecutive year – according to the 2017 edition of the Local Shop Report. Published by small shops group the Association of Convenience Stores, the report put specialist food shops ahead of banks and non-food shops in second and third place respectively. Small food retailers are also having an increasingly positive impact on their local area, the report found, and they ranked in third place behind post offices and convenience stores. This put them 14

ahead of pharmacies, coffee shops and cafés, restaurants, pubs and bars, banks, non-food outlets, petrol stations, fast-food outlets and charity shops. Close proximity to where customers live and work were the most important drivers to stores, the report said, followed by friendly and helpful staff, a desire to support the local store and long opening hours. It also reported that 79% of independent retailers engaged in some form of community activity in the past year: 74% collected money for charity, 21% supported a community event and 15% sponsored a local sports team or other community activity.

October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

Outdoor ready-meals win Seed Fund’s top prize FIREPOT by Outdoorfood will benefit from a full year of business support, branding and mentoring from industry experts after being named The Seed Fund’s 2017 winner. Developed to be an upgrade on the taste and nutritional qualities of other expedition foods, the Dorset start-up’s range

of backpack-friendly meals – including chilli con carne, dal and risotto – can be prepared almost anywhere. FIREPOT’s owner John Fisher collected his prize at the Great Taste Golden Fork Award Dinner on 4th September, marking the end to the first year of partnership between The

Seed Fund’s creators, The Collaborators, and Great Taste. The winner was chosen from a dozen businesses who pitched for and participated over the summer in this year’s Seed Fund Academy, a series of mentoring sessions for selected start-ups. theseedfund.co.uk

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Hickory Smoked Cashews with Black Pepper

Hickory Smoked Almonds

BIG INTERVIEW Playing to the camera in a side-street near London’s Borough Market, Renée Elliott proves you can be deeply serious about food without taking yourself seriously too. With a collection of fancy fruit and knobbly veg as props, the Planet Organic founder poses cheekily with two ripe pomegranates before trying a variety of daft but less risqué options with a kohlrabi and a turks’ head squash. And this from a woman who recently told the BBC’s online CEO Secrets: “I strive for grace and dignity at all times.” As she declares in the 90-second BBC video, spelling out her personal rules for staying healthy and happy in business, it’s important to “laugh and have fun”. Otherwise, she asks, what’s the point? Mississippi-born Elliott opened Planet’s first store in London’s Westbourne Grove in 1995, inspired by US natural food retailers Bread & Circus and Wild Oats Markets – both now absorbed into Whole Foods Market. With mainstream food becoming ever more industrialised and adulterated, she wanted to provide an alternative, “where customers could buy the best quality food and feel safe”. Planet Organic offered what would now be called ‘clean’ options in key categories like fruit and veg, frozen and chilled foods, health and bodycare, and was labelling products as free from additives, preservatives and hydrogenated fats long before this was commonplace. “We had to be very specific,” Elliott tells FFD. “We were organic or natural, because there wasn’t enough organic

Renée Elliott, Planet Organic

Survival tips from the green planet With Planet Organic, she pioneered organic retailing in the UK. Now Renée Elliott is sharing her life and business lessons with a new generation of female entrepreneurs.

“You can have a PhD and still not know how to cook healthy food for your family” food around then. And it was also about making people realise that a lot of what they’re eating is full of crap.” Planet now has seven stores in the capital and a turnover approaching £30m. But its journey hasn’t all been organic wine and roses. Originally a wine writer and journalist, Elliott worked for Wild Oats for three years to learn the retailing ropes before opening her own shop with business partner Jonathan Dwek. Within a few years, however, the pair had a fall-out that led to a bitter and protracted legal battle. The result was a court order against Dwek, forcing him and his backers to sell their shares to Elliott. She has since described this bruising episode as her biggest business challenge, telling a Harpers Bazaar interviewer she got through it by “eating well, sleeping, exercising, meditating – and reading Sun Tzu’s The Art of War...” Her hard-learned survival rules come through today in her approach to the food industry, in her latest cookbook, What To Eat And How To Eat It, and in her new business venture, Beluga Bean,

Interview by Mick Whitworth Portrait by Isabelle Plasschaert

CONTINUED ON PAGE 18

Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

BIG INTERVIEW which she describes as a “life skills and business skills academy for women”. Already a regular on the business mentoring circuit, Elliott set up Beluga Bean earlier this year with life coach Sam Wigan. Delivering advice both online and face-to-face, it has kicked off with two distinctly different courses. The first, Launch, takes budding female entrepreneurs through the start-up or relaunch of a business, and is presented in person by Elliott and Wigan. The second, run online by a US-based partner, is called Nest and supports women in the last trimester of pregnancy and early motherhood. Courses to follow include cookery classes, delivered by Elliott, who has been teaching healthy baking for a while in her Sussex home and at a cookery school. Beluga Bean, she tells FFD candidly, is about “all the sh*t they don’t teach you at school”. “You can have a PhD and still not be able to have a conversation with your husband or know how to cook healthy food for your family.” Elliott studied nutrition at university and became vegetarian after discovering the unsavoury truth about intensive beef production: the growth-promoters, the over-use of antibiotics, the poor animal welfare. Her views have not softened since then: anti-meat, antimilk and shunning refined carbs like white sugar and white bread. “I know I’m a food freak,” she admits. “I’m the extreme.” She has authored several books on healthy meals for kids, but has summed up her whole ethos in her latest book, subtitled “99 super ingredients for a healthy life”.

“Part of the reason I wrote What To Eat is that I always have a lot to say about food and nutrition,” she says, emitting a controlled snort that suggests this is a massive understatement. “But also, there’s a lot of information out there on the internet, and when people say, ‘I read this blogger who says I should bake with chia seeds...’ I think, ‘For god’s sake, don’t!’” Her 99 ingredients aren’t obscure healthstore fare. Alongside the amazake and bee pollen are mostly everyday staples, from Brazil nuts to brown rice and Brussels sprouts. “I take ingredients like quinoa, which a lot of people have sitting in their cupboard unused, and I tell them the best way to prepare it and 10 or a dozen ways to cook with it.” Elliott’s interest in healthy food runs parallel with her commitment to organics. “Maintaining biodiversity and protecting the planet were always a big part of it for me,” she says. A Soil Association trustee from 1999 to 2014, she launched Planet Organic when the word was “not part of the vernacular”. “Someone told me Sainsbury’s was selling a few organics back then, but I think we played a huge part in making people think about food in a different way.” Planet is in its 22nd year of life and is “a grown-up,” says Elliott, who now works only part-time in the business. She remains the face of the brand and is a major shareholder, although she took investors on board some time ago and hired a full-time CEO after the birth of her third child in 2009. It had become a choice between nurturing her business or her kids. “So I stepped away.”

“We are 3,000-5,000 sq ft, but I could see smaller Planets working in railway stations or airports”

After three years out, living the organic life in rural Italy, she returned to the UK and began a new phase, mentoring young business women, presenting a Guardian Masterclass on food startups, teaching baking classes and writing her third book. “At this stage in my life,” she says, “I’m going to do stuff that makes me happy.” The launch of Beluga Bean reflects her view that, in business as in life, women are not the same as men. “We’re the carers, we’re the childbearers. We have a uterus, for God’s sake. So we’re physiologically different. “There are lots of business incubators and accelerators out there but they’re all very much about business planning and finance. What we do is half that and half about this ‘personal discovery’ journey, which is what women really want.” When she’s mentoring, the main business issue is that “no-one wants to do the numbers – except the City women, who come along with their P&L already worked out”. “But on the emotional side, women often need support around self-esteem, inspiration and reassurance.” She adds: “Whenever you do anything challenging, your demons come to the surface, and that’s when you need help.” Elliott was “driven” from the outset, but says it was always about creating a different, valuesled kind of store, not about achieving exponential growth. That’s one reason Planet Organic remains a modest seven-unit chain – although cash flow and two recessions have played their part. “We began in Westbourne Grove and did phenomenally well,” she says. “We were the Mecca for organic food, and not just in London. We moved really slowly, and for a long time it was run like a Ma and Pa store by me and my husband. “Then we opened a second store just before GM hit in 2000. At that point, five new independents opened in London, the supermarkets started doing organic, and our sales dipped. So things change.” Just before the 2008-9 recession, Planet Organic had opened three more units and looked like it was motoring, but the downturn meant the brakes had to be reapplied. “At the moment we’re looking at opening another three,” Elliott says. “Then we’ll reassess and move on.” It will be intriguing to see what shape those stores take. In last month’s FFD, ex-Fortnums food chief Simon Burdess – now head of foodservice at Waitrose – speculated on the scope for more premium, health-focused foodto-go outlets building on what Pret a Manger and Vital Ingredients already offer. Elliott, a big advocate of nutritious food made freshly in-store, seems to be eyeing a similar niche – but not necessarily with Planet’s current model. “I do think there’s room for a smaller format,” she says. “We are 3,000-5,000 sq ft, but I could could see smaller Planets working in railway stations or airports, because finding an organic salad bar or organic coffee when you’re travelling is a real nightmare.” With the likes of Burdess thinking along similar lines, this could be more than idle musing from the still-driven healthy eating pioneer.

belugabean.com planetorganic.com 18

October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

E AT ! D 18 20 EW N FOR

STOCK UP FOR A BRAND NEW YEAR! Sunday 11 February 12-4 Monday 12 February 10-7 Tuesday 13 February 10-4 Hall 2, Yorkshire Event Centre HG2 8QZ

Register for free entry to visit: www.gff.co.uk/shows We listen to our visitors; and by popular demand we have bought forward the Show to February and included an extra day trading to allow for a late afternoon visit on the Monday as well as bringing back Sunday opening times. • A showcase of the finest food • M aximise profits and pick up • T aste the best British and & drink producers gathered in key industry trends Continental charcuterie the North •S ample and compare a range • T ake part in the FineFoodLive! • Discover the story behind their of award-winning craft spirits sessions running over the 3 products • Book onto one of our seminars days •T aste and try before you buy running at •D eliciouslyorkshire Pavilion •L earn how to create in-store the show revealing Yorkshire’s best food theatre for your customers & drink TRADE ONLY: Easy access and free parking. Under-18s will not be admitted. Students by prior arrangement only

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OPINION Ann-Marie Dyas really understood her product, how to present it and how to meet her customers’ needs By Michael Lane, Editor

There’s something you should know about me. I’m a natural-born hoarder. Whether it’s train tickets in the bedside drawer, bottles and jars on my desk at work, or stacks of paper everywhere, I have an ability to clutter any space I’m given. Both my family and colleagues will attest to this. I’m exactly the same when it comes to the digital world especially with my trusty dictaphone. That little box has been with me pretty much my entire career. Until recently, there were still some traces of my previous beats in more corporate worlds. Over the years, I’ve interviewed people running multi-billion-pound civil engineering projects, luxury hotel managers who looked like Bond villains and chief execs wearing watches that were worth more than my annual salary. And they all had to be scrubbed from the “tape” to make space for new interviewees. It’s a process I really struggle with. Now, I’ve also had to start deleting recordings from earlier on in my stint at this magazine. Although, when I listen back to the first minute of these – just to make sure I really do have to part with them for good – I’m much more hesitant and sentimental. Yes, all of the material is still about business but we’re not skirting around financials, mulling over projections or discussing eye-watering sums. Food, and the business of selling it, is arguably more interesting, it is certainly more inspiring and definitely more human than any other industry I’ve worked in. Hence my reluctance to erase the conversations that I’ve saved up in the six years I’ve been at FFD. Appropriately, when I was purging my dictaphone last week, I came across the recording of the first time I sat down with Ann-Marie Dyas

EDITOR’S CHOICE Chosen by Lauren Phillips, Assistant editor

FFD discovered Irvin’s Salted Egg potato chips and fish skins at the Speciality & Fine Food Fair last month and have been rationing samples among the team ever since. This Singaporean delicacy might not sound appealing but these salty, yolky, moreish snacks are as “dangerously addictive” as the packaging suggests. Unfortunately, Irvin’s has no plans to launch in the UK any time soon, but there’s certainly a gap in the market for them if they do. irvinsaltedegg.com 20

October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

– the co-founder of The Fine Cheese Co who very sadly passed away in September. That interview, was one of the most enjoyable I’ve done. Full stop. For a start, Ann-Marie was an effervescent character and a one-off. It’s safe to say that the photos I took of her never quite met her approval like the words on the page – and she wasn’t shy about letting me know that – but she was also very generous with her time and immensely welcoming whenever I encountered her after that. Her story and business achievements are well-known (we’ve done our best to summarise them on page 13), but I can’t stress enough how on top of her game she was. She really understood her product, how to present it and how to meet her customers’ needs, from the punter on her own shop floor through to highend retail buyers in the Far East. Although their accomplishments may not be as grand or their personalities as big, there are lots of other fine food interviewees that have left me feeling just as impressed with their successes and ideas. Every issue is full of them. Look at this month. There is Papadeli running a thriving deli and catering operation in Bristol. Our cover star, Renée Elliot, has stuck to her principles admirably as she built up Planet Organic. And then there’s Hugh Maguire, whose smoked black pudding epiphany landed him the Great Taste Supreme Champion trophy. These people, and many others who appear in this publication, have achieved a kind of heroic triumph that you won’t find in most other lines of work. I hope you feel as inspired reading about them as we do putting the pages of this magazine together.

Second site hindsight SANGITA TRYNER Delilah, Leicester Great Taste Shop of the Year (Deli) 2017 Delilah opened in Nottingham in 2005, so setting up our second site in Leicester 11 years later was hardly a snap decision. We were confident. Having relocated in 2012 to a much larger premises in Nottingham, we’d seen the business transformed. Concept, reputation and profitability were strong. Affordable and similar in size, Leicester has comparable demographics to Nottingham and is also easily commutable. An ex-bank building, (just like Nottingham), next to the Richard III visitor centre, seemed perfect. With active support from the council and grant aid for renovations,

“The fit looked good with Leicester. Surely, customers would flock to our doors?” plus Delilah’s reputation, the fit looked good. Surely, customers would surely flock to our doors? Time for a reality check! Renovating a derelict building, dealing with grant-aid red tape, sourcing kit and financing the whole show was daunting enough. But doing so while managing a busy existing business made us think maybe we’d bitten off more than we could chew. In truth, opening Leicester was starting again from scratch. Only, this time, 12 years older with an existing business and a family. Leicester is a different city. A few people knew Delilah but to most it’s another new food joint. Hard work was (and still is) needed to build awareness and attract customers. Footfall was decent, but basket spend has been small and cautious. Training a new team of 20 is a mammoth task, and staff turnover was high early on, but we had to get the right people. Juggling 200 suppliers over two stores made interpretting the accounts almost impossible. And, with all the focus on Leicester, performance margins in Nottingham slipped too. Compromising the brand, our values and our service ethics was never an option. So 15 months on, a lot of hard-work, two national awards and a few more grey hairs later, we are now getting there.

IF I’D KNOWN THEN WHAT I KNOW NOW... KAREN CREWS Co-owner, Al Ponte, Cardiff My passion is wine. I have been studying and teaching wine at a university for several years and have combined this with other jobs. My husband David has been a butcher since he was 12 and is now 61. My vision for Al Ponte was to draw on our combined wine and butchery skills to create a deli that meets the shopping needs of local people. Fresh meat accounts for 50% of our turnover and we source it carefully. At the moment, we are selling a lot of salt marsh lamb and we make our own sausages and faggots. The margin on meat is higher than on wine and deli products but there is a lot of work involved in getting a carcass ready for sale and cleaning equipment. I source my wine from several specialised importers and use local businesses where I can. I hoped to import some wines myself but the setting-up process is long-winded and the cost often prohibitive. Pricing of wine is difficult. I can’t sell wine at a low price and make any money. On the other hand, I don’t want customers to be put off by my prices. I have found that £10-15 is a good bracket. I have a dedicated wine tasting room and hold regular tastings which have so far been popular. The design of the shop has worked really well and we receive compliments about it daily. We are, however, very short of fridge display space. Shelves for non-perishable goods can easily be added, but not fridges. We are going to have to make some changes which will cost quite a bit. We bought a fridge and a freezer second hand which was a big saving. We sourced them through meat wholesalers well known to David so we had some peace of mind. We then took out a lease agreement for three further display fridges. I really regret it. After spending more than expected on the shop refit and still with stock to purchase it was an appealing option. But, now, I am stuck paying for them each month. Looking back to our opening in November 2016, we weren’t as prepared as we might have been. Neither of us could make a latte or anything resembling one. The barista course I was offered would have been money and time well spent. It was fortunate that at opening we were not at all busy, giving us a chance to settle into the business. There were some very quiet days when we first opened and we both found this stressful. Working with David on those days was harder than I expected. We have got used to working with each other and now find it easy to pull together in the shop. Interview Lynda Searby Photography Matthew Horwood

Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

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CHEESEWIRE

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Weak pound helps Scottish quintet strike French export deal By Patrick McGuigan

French wholesaler Desailly agreed a deal to list five Scottish cheeses last month â&#x20AC;&#x201C; further proof that the fall in the value of the pound is opening up new export markets for the UKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s artisan cheesemakers. The company, which is one of Franceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest cheese wholesalers, launched the range at Rungis market in September with a tasting event for chefs and retailers. The line-up is St Andrews farmhouse cheddar, Orkney smoked cheddar, Applesmoke waxed cheddar truckle, Barwheys cheese and Connage smoked Dunlop. The deal is the latest in a series of export successes for small British cheesemakers, which are benefiting from a 15% fall in the pound since Brexit. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The currency situation has definitely opened doors for us,â&#x20AC;? said Allan Currie, MD of Penicuik-based distributor Clarks Foods, which exports the cheese from Scotland. â&#x20AC;&#x153;This kind of deal is doable now, when it wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t before because products were just too expensive.â&#x20AC;? According to the Food and Drink Federation (FDF), the value of British cheese exports grew by 25% in the first half of 2017, helped by several industry initiatives.

IN BRIEF &XVWRPV RIĆ&#x201C;FLDOV LQ &KLQD KDYH EDQQHG LPSRUWV of soft, mould-ripened cheese for containing â&#x20AC;&#x153;too much bacteriaâ&#x20AC;?. Brie, Camembert, Gorgonzola, Roquefort and Stilton have all been affected. Food Standards Scotland (FSS) is conducting research on the control of pathogens in cheeses made from unpasteurised milk. The aim of the project is to collate evidence on effective controlling factors during the cheesemaking process. The research is being headed by Dr Catherine Donnelly from the University of Vermont, USA.

7ULFLD %H\Ĺ?V %DUZKH\V &KHHVH LV RQH RI Ć&#x201C;YH RQ LWV ZD\ WR )UHQFK ZKROHVDOHU Desailly

The Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board has promoted artisan British cheeses, such as Quickes cheddar, Bath soft cheese and Cropwell Bishop Stilton, through trade missions in Hong Kong, New Delhi and Paris. The Scottish government has also been working to boost cheese exports through its Scottish Dairy Growth Board and Scottish Development International. Clarks began working with the agencies last year, culminating in the deal with Desailly, which began with a 350kg order. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Exports are an interesting market for us and one we think has potential,â&#x20AC;? said Currie. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We can be flexible and offer mixed pallets, which

THREE WAYS WITH... A cross between a cheddar and an Alpine cheese, Lincolnshire Poacher is made with raw milk on the edge of the Lincolnshire Wolds by brothers Simon and Tim Jones. Matured for 14-16 months, it has a smooth texture and IUXLW\ QXWW\ Ĺ´DYRXU

gives us an advantage over bigger players. It could be an important market for artisan producers.â&#x20AC;? At Barwheys Dairy, which produces around 12 tonnes of raw milk cheddar-style cheese a year, owner Tricia Bey said that she was optimistic that exports to France would grow. â&#x20AC;&#x153;If you pick the cheeses France doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have, then our territorials fit in quite well,â&#x20AC;? she said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Exporting is hard as an individual artisanal cheesemaker, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easier when you are part of a complete Scottish cheeseboard through an aggregator like Clarks. Scottish food has a good reputation abroad thanks to things like whisky and smoked salmon. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s seen as healthy and natural, and cheese fits nicely with that.â&#x20AC;?

Norfolk goatsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; cheese maker Fielding Cottage plans to run week-long residential cheesemaking courses at its farm near Honingham after building three accommodation units, which include a communal teaching room. The project has been part-funded by a Rural Development Programme for England grant.

BEHIND THE COUNTER TIPS OF THE TRADE Make sure you carry more than one of each cheese style. This keeps repeat customers interested in the counter, even if theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re just trying a different cheddar each week.

Lincolnshire Poacher Plum bread This match wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t win any awards for originality. The people of Lincolnshire have been putting a slice or two of Poacher on top of plum bread (a local delicacy) for years, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a classic for a reason. Made with sugar, dried fruit and cinnamon, the rich bread complements the sweet and creamy cheese, while the spice dovetails with its savoury Ć&#x201C;QLVK

Plum & garam masala jam London-based %XWWHUĹ´\ WKH Bee preserves is run by Michael Donnelly, who makes an interesting range of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;hybridâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; jams using XQXVXDO VSLFHV DQG Ĺ´DYRXUV +LV SOXP JDUDP PDVDOD MDP works with Poacher in much the same way as the plum bread. Sweet, fruity and spicy, it complements the cheese beautifully, but you only need a little. Too much and the garam masala overpowers it.

Belgian blonde ales There are distinct tropical IUXLW Ĺ´DYRXUV WR Lincolnshire Poacher, especially pineapple, so fruity Belgian beers work a treat. Duvel or La Chouffe are not for the faint-hearted at 8.5% and 8% ABV respectively, but their spice and fruit notes, especially SHDU DQG SLQHDSSOH Ĺ´DYRXUV marry nicely with the cheese. They are also crisp with a slight bitterness, which cuts through the cheeseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s creaminess.

Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

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CHEESEWIRE

news and views from the cheese counter

Instead of one or two buckets of curd, we have 80 and they are all hand-ladled

Jacquin produces thousands of specialist goats’ cheeses, including Valençay, every day: the processes are still carried out by hand

Tradition on a big scale While its goats’ cheese operation in the Loire Valley dwarves most cheese-makers, Fromagerie Jacquin stays committed to artisan methods Interview by Patrick McGuigan

Take a wrong turn at Fromagerie P. Jaquin’s goats’ cheese factory in the Loire Valley and you would get lost in a maze of maturing rooms. Hundreds of trolleys stacked high with Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) cheeses, each at different stages of ripeness, fill a confusing warren of temperature- and humiditycontrolled rooms. Thankfully, sales director Romain Jacquin, the fourth generation to work at the 70-year-old family business, is on hand to guide FFD through the premises, explaining as we go how the company has evolved. Compared to the handful of British companies that specialise in raw milk goats’ cheese, Jacquin is huge – making around 1,000 tonnes of cheese a year. Production is split 50/50 between pasteurised and raw milk with a big chunk of output taken up by extruded fresh chèvre destined for supermarket shelves. But the backbone of the business is handmade cheeses, many of which end up on British deli counters and restaurant menus through wholesalers including Harvey & Brockless, Bradburys and Rowcliffe. Around 3,000 Sainte-Maure, 2,000 Valençay and 6,000 Selles-sur-Cher cheeses are made each day at the headquarters in La Vernelle, using raw milk and methods set out in the terms of their PDOs. These numbers may make Jacquin sound like an industrial producer, but as the tour continues it’s clear the company still adheres to artisan principles. Milk arrives fresh each day from 40 small farms (average herd size is 150 goats), who are paid 85 cents/litre compared to the

market average of 77c. It’s then slowly acidified overnight in dozens of plastic buckets, before the cheesemakers scoop the curd into plastic moulds for draining. The cheeses are also de-moulded and ashed by hand. “We make cheese in a traditional way, but we do it at scale,” says Jacquin as we wander among pyramid-shaped Valençay moulds filled with fresh curd. “We work closely with our farms to ensure milk quality and we make the cheeses by hand. Instead of one or two buckets of curd, we have 80 and they are all hand-ladled.” Staff numbers are consequently high, with 14 people in production and 80 employees in total. Up to 40 different cheeses are made on site. “Making so many cheeses is complicated,” says Jacquin. “Production needs careful planning and we need a lot of staff and different areas of the factory, but this also means we can be flexible and create bespoke cheeses for customers.” It’s this adaptability that has helped Jacquin survive and prosper, something that many small cheesemakers in France have struggled to do in recent years. It’s estimated that around 90% of all cheese consumed in France is now made on an industrial scale and many farmhouse (fermier) producers have been driven out of business by draconian safety legislation and competition from large producers. The Association Fromages de Terroirs says that at least 50 cheeses have become extinct in the past 40 years and dozens more are under threat. “One farmer making 50,00 cheeses a year, will find it very difficult to be profitable,” says Jacquin. “It’s a very competitive market and you need to be a certain size to compete.” Jacquin’s approach is certainly paying off abroad, with exports accounting for 60% of sales and business in the UK growing at 10% a year. At this rate, it won’t be long before that maze of maturing rooms becomes even harder to navigate.

CROSS

SECTION

Selles-sur-Cher 1

Protected by a PDO since 1975, Selles-surCher is named after a commune in the Loir-et-Cher department. By law, it must be made with unpasteurised, whole goats’ milk, and must be covered with ash and matured for at least 10 days.

The interior is chalky and slightly crumbly with a soft breakdown just beneath the blue-gray rind, which becomes more pronounced as the cheese ripens.

The flavour is nutty with hints of wood and flowers – growing more goaty as it matures – thanks to the high proportion of hay in the goats’ diet.

fromagerie-jacquin.com

Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

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NO COMPROMISE ON QUALITY 26

October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

CUT&DRIED

making more of British & Continental charcuterie

Videos to inspire deli shoppers

By Mick Whitworth

Well-heeled trekkers in one of the world’s most remote tourist destinations – the Shangri-la prefecture in China’s Yunnan province – could soon be snacking on air-dried yak along with Western-style guanciale and pancetta. The couple behind adventure holiday firm Caravan Liotard have invited David and Karen Richards of Capreolus Fine Foods to their home in “the gateway to the Himalayas”, to teach them to make European charcuterie for their guests. Caravan Liotard was set up in 2010 by Dorset-born gourmet caterer Phoebe Osborn and her French husband Constantin de Slizewicz. It offers arduous treks, accompanied by a caravan of packhorses, with glamping and three-course candlelit dinners in tents. The couple also run a restaurant, The Flying Tiger, in the near-mythical old town of Shangri-la, and another at Farm Liotard, the traditional Tibetan house that is the base for their treks. Osborn told FFD: “I do most of the cooking for the caravans and the farm guests. But we want to push the standard of food up to the next level and I decided we should start making our own charcuterie. “I also have a dream of helping everyone in my village by buying meat from the animals they rear on

TV chef Peter Sidwell (below) is putting the finishing touches to a series of recipe videos produced in assocation with FFD’s ongoing Sell More Charcuterie campaign. Featuring ingredients including Great Glen venison salami, Deli Farm salami and Woodalls air-dried ham, the videos are designed to inspire home cooks and delichefs to use charcuterie in new ways, and provide retailers with a useful sales tool. They are being produced by Sidwell’s Simply Good Food TV, based in the Lake District, which makes cookery videos featuring top chefs available via its own mobile app and on YouTube. Retailers will also be able to link the videos to their own websites and Facebook pages. The video project is being funded by FFD, the Guild of Fine Food, and the 11 trade sponsors of Sell More Charcuterie. The recipes developed by Sidwell range from a simple supper dish of coppa and cheese on a toasted muffin to a dinner-party showpiece of fresh home-made ricotta wrapped in air-dried ham and a side dish of rosemary foccacia with crispy lardo. Videos will be ready for release in late autumn and will be supported by point-ofsale material for independent stores. simplygoodfood.tv

Caravan Liotard will be trialling yak meat charcuterie with guidance from Dorset’s Capreolus Fine Foods

the grassland and up in the mountains.” Back in the UK earlier this year, Osborn searched for a West County producer to work with, and identified Capreoulus, which has won the Taste of the West champion cured meat trophy four times. A pack of samples from Capreolus went down a storm with de Slizewicz’s French family, and now the charcutiers will be flying out to China to teach Osborn how to make her own air-dried meats. “Phoebe is getting two pigs slaughtered,” said David Richards, “and we plan to make guanciale, coppa, air-dried

Natallia Yaumenenka/Dreamstime

Air-dried yak on the menu as Dorset meets Shangri-la

loin, pancetta, salamis and maybe even some ham. I’ve talked to Graham Waddington at [air-dried ham specialist] Native Breeds and he said the humidity at high altitude in Shangri-la should be absolutely perfect for air-drying meat.” Osborn added: “Chinese people are now into their wine, so David, Karen and I need to come up with flavours they can enjoy with it. “We’ll try yak meat, for something competely new, and pork with flavours like Sichuan pepper and local wine.” caravane-liotard.com capreolusfinefoods.co.uk

Borough Market to host British first cured meat awards Specialist wholesaler and retailer Cannon & Cannon, based at London’s Borough Market, plans to stage the first British cured meat awards as part of its British Charcuterie Festival at the market next year. Founder Sean Cannon told FFD he had secured the market’s new event space – a former car park in Jubilee Place – for the all-ticket event on 27th May, the late spring bank holiday Sunday.

He expects to sell up to 350 tickets each for two sessions – day-time and evening – featuring talks and demos by well-known chefs, charcutiers and home-curing experts alongside tastings, brewery bars, street food, a charcuterie market and live music. Judging of the cured meat awards will take place throughout the day, culimating in an awards ceremony in the evening session.

Cannon told FFD he had identified more than 180 British charcuterie producers that could potentially enter the awards, ranging from commercial operators selling into the trade to chefs making cured meats for their own restaurants and bars. Producers can email Cannon & Cannon now to register interest in applying. nicky@cannonandcannon.com

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

GREAT TASTE 2017

The proof is in the pudding To kick off our coverage of the Great Taste Golden Fork Awards, FFD speaks to Hugh Maguire – the man behind the Supreme Champion smoked black pudding. And there’s a full round-up over the next five pages of all the major winners from the climax of Great Taste 2017. Interview by Michael Lane

You get the impression that, even before he grabbed the attention of the fine food world at the beginning of September, Co Meath butcher Hugh Maguire was a man in demand. When FFD reaches him on the telephone at his shop in Ashbourne, there follows a good 30 seconds of doors opening and footsteps as he readies himself to speak. “Sorry, I was in the shop,” he says. “If I’m out there, someone will catch me.” But it’s not just his customers who want a piece of his time and, more pertinently, a slice of his smoked black pudding – a creation that has floored food judges and left many asking, ‘why didn’t anyone think of this before?’ A mixture of fresh pigs’ blood, onions, oatmeal, belly pork and Himalayan salt packed into a natural casing, Maguire’s pudding is a far cry from your average black plastic-wrapped tube. Inspired by childhood memories of his mother preparing pudding in the family farm’s kitchen, Maguire has already developed an award-winning recipe but it is the half hour of cold-smoking over beechwood that has sent the pudding into the culinary stratosphere. It’s been more than a week since the product took the Great Taste Supreme Champion trophy at the Golden Fork awards dinner in London but the customary flood of enquiries from all over the British Isles means he’s had little time for reflection. “It has all happened so fast,” he says. “The idea to smoke the black pudding only hit me last February.” This isn’t the first time an innovative Irish butcher has risen to prominence after claiming the Supreme Champion title but retailers should not be fretting that they might miss out on another sought-after product in limited supply. For a start, Maguire has the scale to cope with a surge of demand. He purchased a pork and bacon factory in the nearby town of Navan last Christmas, with the goal of kicking on his sausage and pudding-making. It was only after a fact-finding European trip taking in Burgos, Lyon and Bologna, that he was inspired to experiment with his black pudding in the factory’s smoker. The reaction in his own shop 28

October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

Hugh Maguire wants to sell his smoked black pudding to both restaurants and retailers

was good and, with the added clout of a Great Taste Golden Fork or two, he wants to share it with a wider audience. “Getting it ready for the retail and wholesale market is the next project,” he says, and is now gearing up the factory to cope. He has already trialled a run of 200kg in a couple of hours and estimates that he could produce as much as 600kg in a day. Maguire already has one UK distributor, Campbell Brothers, and is in discussions with others to ensure that the pudding makes it across the Irish Sea and not only into the hands of top chefs in restaurants but also into the counters of delis and farm shops. “There are so many black puddings out there that are mass produced and so poor that

it gives the product a bad name,” says Maguire. “I’ll speak frankly. Black pudding is black pudding and it has to be made with fresh blood. It’s now a superfood, too. It’s high in iron and I think it’s underappreciated. But I think the award will lift it to the level it should be at.” Maguire is not stopping at black pudding, though. He tells FFD that he’s also smoking white puddings. Both pudding products will be sold under his new The Smokin’ Butcher brand and he also has some more ideas up his sleeve. If he carries on his current form, that phone might be ringing off the hook. hughmaguirebutchers.com/the-smokinbutcher/

ing

Big winners celebrate at The Golden Forks Dinner Supreme Champion 2017 Hugh Maguire Smoked Black Pudding

SUPREME CHAMPION (l-r) John Farrand from the Guild of Fine Food, Ann-Marie Maguire, Steve Munkley (executive chef, The Royal Garden Hotel), Caroline Maguire and Hugh Maguire.

Great Taste Producer of the Year Swoon (l-r) Anna Maria Forte and Pat Powell (Swoon), Guild of Fine Food MD John Farrand, Louise Fontana, Bruno Forte and Louise Forte (Swoon) and John Shepherd of Partridges.

Sponsored by

Small Artisan Producer of the Year Fortes Ice Cream

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll speak frankly. Black pudding is black pudding and has to be made with fresh blood.

(l-r) John Farrand of the Guild of Fine Food, Richard and Hannah Forte of Fortes Ice Cream and Selfridges director of food & hospitality Bruce Langlands.

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Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

WINNERS OF TWO 2017 GREAT TASTE AWARDS

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www.teaspec.com 30

October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

The last farm made UDZ PLON /DQFDVKLUH &KŸVH At Mrs Kirkham’s we have been making our award-winning Lancashire for 3 generations, using the same techniques and ingredients as the generations before. We use only the rich creamy milk from our own closed herd of Holstien Frieisan Cows, to create what we believe to be a true traditional Lancashire, which is an ivory yellow in colour and has a rich buttery crumble.

www.mrskirkhamscheese.co.uk info@mrskirkhamscheese.co.uk · 01772 865335

GREAT TASTE 2017 La Tua Pasta +DQGPDGH 7RUWHOORQL %XUUDWD %ODFN 7UXIŴH (l-r) John Farrand of the Guild of Fine Food and Rowcliffe MD Jason Fisher with La Tua’s Lukasc Leloczko, Daniel Martin, Peter Rusnak and Jessica Scudetti.

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Hannan Meats Sweet Cured Bacon Rack

Inverawe Smokehouses Smoked Trout John Farrand (Guild of Fine Food) and Stephanie Pritchard (Scotland Food & Drink) with Lucy Burke, Karen Macloed, Dolina MacDonald and Tony Hinds of Inverawe Smokehouses.

Sponsored by (l-r) Guild of Fine Food MD John Farrand, Hannan Meats’ Peter Hannan and John Hood of Invest Northern Ireland.

Coedcanlas Organic Welsh Blackcurrant Jam (l-R) John Farrand of the Guild of Fine Food, David Morris of Food & Drink Wales and Nick and Annette Tonkin of Coedcanlas.

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Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

GREAT TASTE 2017 The Artisan Kitchen Seville Orange Marmalade (l-r) Guild of Fine Food MD John Farrand, Sarah Churchill of The Artisan Kitchen, Petty Wood CEO John Potter and BBC Radio 2’s Nigel Barden.

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building brands for tomorrow

Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire Cheese (l-r) Jonny Maher and Graham Kirkham (Mrs Kirkham’s) with BBC Radio 2’s Nigel Barden and Mark Wiltshire from sponsor Diverse Fine Food.

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Isle of Man Creamery Whey Butter (l-r) Guild of Fine Food MD John Farrand, Nikki Castley of Cress Co and the Isle of Man Creamery’s Stephen Keeley.

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September 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 8

(l-r) John Farrand (Guild of Fine Food), 0DULH %XWWHUƓHOG (Sandford Orchards), Jonathan Tull (InkREADible Labels) and %DUQ\ %XWWHUƓHOG (Sandford Orchards).

Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

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October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

GREAT TASTE 2017 Eulogia of Sparta Heather Honey

Sponsored by (l-r) John Farrand from the Guild of Fine Food, Rea Bolychronaka from Eulogia of Sparta and Kara Bowen from Speciality & Fine Food Fair.

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Ispini Charcuterie Rosemary & Thyme Bresaola

Hugh Maguire Smoked Black Pudding (l-r) John Farrand (Guild of Fine Food), Hugh Maguire of Hugh Maguire Butchers and Bord Bia’s Linda Cullen.

Sponsored by (l-r) John Farrand from the Guild of Fine Food, Jonny Cuddy from Ispini Charcuterie and Mick Whitworth, Fine Food Digest editorial director.

Macneil’s Smokehouse Smoked Mackerel (l-r) John Farrand (Guild of Fine Food), Tony and Bee Macneil of Macneil’s Smokehouse, Kathryn Lowe from Aga Rangemaster and BBC Radio 2’s Nigel Barden.

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Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

GREAT TASTE 2017 Thursday Cottage National Trust Sour Cherry Curd (l-r) John Farrand from the Guild of Fine Food, Donna Smith and Tracey Shea from Thursday Cottage and Harrods director of food Alex Dower.

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Great Taste Shop of the Year (Deli) Delilah Fine Foods, Leicester (l-r) John Farrand of the Guild of Fine Food with Nik Tooley and Sangita Tryner of Delilah Fine Foods and Hotel Indigo’s Paul Spencer.

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Great Taste Shop of the Year (Farm Shop) The Gog Farm Shop, Cambridge (l-r) Guild of Fine Food MD John Farrand, Charles Bradford of The Gog and Hotel Indigo’s Paul Spencer.

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Woman & Home Great Taste VIP Award Abernethy Butter

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September 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 8

Guild of Fine Food MD John Farrand, Allison Abernethy (Abernethy Butter), Jane Curran from Woman & Home and William Abernethy (Abernethy Butter).

Borsari Authentic Luxury Italian Panettone 2017 Range Exclusive to Tenuta Marmorelle Now Taking Orders For Christmas 2017

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Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

FOCUS ON

Cooking up a storm

Store Cupboard The Coconut Kitchen has relaunched its four curry pastes with new packaging. The company says the move from 125g glass jars into 2 x 65g sachets with a cardboard sleeve give the pastes a better shelf presence, leaving more room for recipe information for customers. Wholesale price £15.30 per case of 6. RRP £3.49 per 2 x 65g. thecoconutkitchen.co.uk

For people who love homecooked food but don’t have time

Quinola Mothergrain claims its express wholegrain quinoa is the ZRUOGōV ƓUVW 7KH JUDLQV DUH grown in France which the company says has been crossbred over almost a GHFDGH WR ƓQDOO\ FRPH RXW with a quinoa seed that doesn’t require de-husking. RRP £1.89 per 250g pack. quinola.com

This month FFD brings retailers the latest ingredients in the store cupboard, with meal solutions coming to the table with kits, mixes and spice blends. Those in need of last-minute Christmas ideas should turn to page 41. Compiled by Lauren Phillips

October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

Micro-food producer The Bridge Lodge has added a new wild garlic OHDI ŴDYRXUHG VDOW PDGH from the Welsh sea salt, Halen Môn, which is mixed with the producer’s own dried wild garlic leaves. Recommended for use on ƓVK DQG VWHDN RU WR VHDVRQ sauces, the trade price is £3.30 per 60g unit (RRP £4.95-5.95). thebridgelodge.co.uk

The Shropshire Spice Company has added three recipes to its gluten-free ‘So Simple’ herb & spice blend range. The additions – jambalaya, stroganoff, and chilli – have been created for “people who love home-cooked food but don’t have the time to source ingredients”. They join the original range of 9 products, including Swahili African Curry and Indian Keema. shropshire-spice.co.uk

Curry paste producer Shemin’s has produced a range of eight spice blends: jerk, Cajun, BBQ, Garam Masala, Tandoori, Harissa, Ras El Hanout, and Peri Peri. The RRPs of the spice blends range from £2.60 up to £2.95. shemins.com

Importer and distributor Tresors de Grece’s latest offering is a collection of hand-picked herbs & spices. The range includes oregano, rosemary, thyme and mountain-tea sourced from Greece. RRP £6.90 per 50g unit. tresorsdegrece.gr

Street Monkey’s range of YHJDQ ,QGLDQ WLIƓQ PHDOV DUH pitched as an ideal “meal for 2” product, consisting of a main course, side dish and rice. The meal kits come in three varieties including: Sri Lankan butternut squash curry, Mr Singh’s 3 bean curry, and Golden Temple Daal with spinach. RRP £6-7 per 800g kit. street-monkey.com

2UJDQLF ŵQH IRRG VXSSOLHU Clearspring is now stocking buckwheat pasta as part of its new gluten-free range. Said to be a “genuine alternative to durum wheat pasta”, the quick cook range is nut-free, vegan, organic and Kosher. RRP £2.79 per 250g pack. clearspring.co.uk

How we stock it…

Kwan’s Kitchen has launched a range of stir fry meal kits with three components: a seasoning blend, stir fry paste, and Szechuan oil. The company says the consumer only needs to add meat and vegetables for a “restaurant quality meal for two in 10 minutes”. Flavours include black bean & garlic, spicy Szechuan, sweet chilli, and Hoi Sin. RRP £2.75. kwanskitchen.co.uk

Manchester-based, The Smokey Carter now sells its eight seasonings and rubs in 50g tamper proof SRWV 7KH ŴDYRXUV Ŋ including Jamaican Jerk, Louisiana Cajun BBQ, and VSLFHG PDQJR OLPH Ŋ ZHUH LQŴXHQFHG E\ RZQHUV Howard and Samantha Carter’s travels. Trade price £10.20 per case of six (RRP £2.70 each). thesmokeycarter.com

Mediterranean ingredient supplier Belazu has introduced a Zhoug Yemenite spice paste, consisting of coriander, parsley leaf, powdered cloves and cardamom with Jalapeno chilli. The company says the “vibrant green colour” of the paste will brighten up a host of meat DQG ƓVK GLVKHV 553 e per 170g jar. belazu.com

Liberto is a new brand, from Lavida Foods, that offers a range of organic and gluten-free pure bean pastas, fettuccine & spaghetti. Both types of pasta are available in two ŴDYRXUV HGDPDPH DQG black bean (200g). They have a trade price of £2.25 (RRP £2.99). lavidafood.com

Based in a hamlet in Dorset, Ajar Of has rebranded its range of pasta sauces with new labels. The range of three includes Sugo Pomodoro, Arrabiata and Sauce alla Norma. Each product is made using authentic Italian or Sicilian recipes, with the sauce alla Norma made of aubergine, tomatoes, basil and oregano. Trade price £1.90 (RRP £3). ajar-of.co.uk

Pizza lovers can now make their own homemade version with the new FREEE pizza base mix from Doves Farm. The mix only needs the addition of oil and water to make two thin and crispy pizzas, or one large, deep pan pizza. RRP £2.35, 350g. dovesfarm.co.uk

Launched in March this year, Spice Sanctuary’s range of organic speciality spices and blends are created to help reduce salt and sugar intake. Available in cases of 10 packaged tubes, the RRP is between £4.95-5.95. spicesanctuary.com

Spice Drops has produced a new lime zest natural extract which says is more versatile than lime oil because it “blends easily with any liquid” giving consumers the taste of fresh lime “without increasing the volume”. RRP £4 for 5ml bottles (around 150 drops). holylama.co.uk

BARRY HANCOX, Retail Operations Manager Fillet & Bone, Gloucestershire Fillet & Bone’s shelves are brimming with staple store cupboard brands, including Tracklements, Tubby Toms, Atkins & Potts, and Tigg’s. Sourcing lines through the Fine Food Angel and Artisan Food Club, the store prioritises products for their locality, uniqueness and saleability. “We’ve recently ordered in dry curry kits from Boom,” says Hancox. “We haven’t long had them in the shop, but before

we even opened the box someone asked us if we sold any curry kits.” Though, Hancox says the tasting events are the best way to promote a product, which the store holds every Saturday. “We recently did a tasting of Tigg’s and they proved very popular,” says Hancox. “The basil & pea dressing is lovely mixed with pasta. They’re great for their versatility.” ƓOOHWDQGERQH FR XN

Slow and easy does it The latest offering of meal solutions from The Bay Tree is a new range of slow cooking sauces. Each 350g pouch comes with quick (30 minutes to an hour) and slow (3-6 hours) cooking instructions which the company says is ideal for cheaper cuts of meat like

Produced in a hamlet in Dorset, each sauce is made using authentic Italian or Sicilian recipes

shin or neck. 7KH ƓYH YDULHWLHV include classic dishes of Hearty Bourguignon, Rustic Cider & Apple Stew, Comforting Cacciatore, Classic Minted Hotpot and Zesty Orange Casserole. RRP £2.99. thebaytree.co.uk

Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

Red Pepper

Black Pepper

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Great Taste Awards 2017

SUGAR

Delivering Seasoning Perfection

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with love from Kampot Cambodia

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www.genovese.ie These fresh products are available for retail and food service in various sizes. They can be purchased via the Galleria by GFG website or by contacting genovesefoods@gmail.com

October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

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Store Cupboard Arabian speciality company Terra Rossa has created a new sauce called Bamia (Arabic for okra). A combination of okra, tomato, garlic, chilli, coriander, cumin, pomegranate and date molasses, the sauce can be heated up and eaten with rice, couscous, burgul or freekeh, or added to stews. RRP ÂŁ4.50 for a 170g jar. terra-rossa.com

Last Minute Christmas Ideas

Halen MĂ´n has created a salt library to showcase its best-selling varieties

Norfolk-based BoojaBooja has created a KDQGPDGH ER[ Ć&#x201C;OOHG ZLWK RUJDQLF FKRFRODWH WUXIĹ´HV 7KH WUXIĹ´HV FRPH LQ WZR varieties: Hazelnut Crunch and a boozier Fine de Champagne. Decorated in bold colours and with â&#x20AC;&#x153;intricateâ&#x20AC;? gold detailing, the company says the square wooden boxes make desirable keepsakes or can be used as jewellery/trinket boxes. (RRP ÂŁ19.99). boojabooja.com

As part of its Christmas gift line-up Joe & Sephâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s has launched gourmet popcorn gift tins. Each tin has a gold rim with ribbon, gift tag and personalised message for â&#x20AC;&#x153;an extra special touchâ&#x20AC;?. The gift tins are available in two sizes: standard (RRP ÂŁ15), which includes two snack packs of popcorn, and large (RRP ÂŁ27) with four snack packs. joeandsephs.co.uk

Handmade chocolate company 7URIĹ´HĹ?V new advent calendar has 24 FKRFRODWHV HDFK Ć&#x201C;OOHG ZLWK IHVWLYH Ĺ´DYRXUV EDVHG RQ traditional British puddings. $PRQJ WKH Ĺ´DYRXUV DUH gingerbread honeycomb, lemon posset, mandarin & ginger caramel and sticky toffee. Available from November, the calendar has an RRP of ÂŁ26-28 (10 units per trade case). WURIĹ´H FR XN

Delicioso! has launched a Paella ingredients kit which contains all the classic ingredients to make the signature Spanish dish, including Bomba paella rice (250g), EV olive oil (100ml), sweet smoked La Vera paprika (75g), select grade saffron strands from la Mancha, and a box of natural paella seasoning sachets. Trade price ÂŁ11.45 (RRP ÂŁ22.45 - ÂŁ25.95). delicioso.co.uk

Halen MĂ´n has created a salt library to showcase Ć&#x201C;YH RI LWV EHVW VHOOLQJ varieties in a sliding sustainable wooden box. The line-up consists of pure sea salt, smoked over oak, with celery seeds, with roasted garlic, and with chilli & garlic. Each salt comes in 5g vials. Wholesale price ÂŁ92.25 per case of 15, ÂŁ6.15 per unit (RRP ÂŁ9.95 each). halenmon.com

Taylors of Harrogate has released two festive-themed products: a Christmas Blend coffee and spiced apple infusion tea. The former is described as a â&#x20AC;&#x153;rich, indulgent coffeeâ&#x20AC;? which is slow roasted to JLYH D VPRRWK Ć&#x201C;QLVK ZLWK Ĺ´DYRXUV RI PLON FKRFRODWH and hazelnuts. Created in partnership with the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, the latter blends sweet apple pieces, orange peel, cinnamon and cloves. taylorsofharrogate.co.uk

Pellini CaffĂ¨ has brought its blends together in a gift pack of espresso capsules for the coffee-loving FRQVXPHU &RQWDLQLQJ Ć&#x201C;YH varieties of 10 capsules, the packs are presented in a limited-edition display unit which the company says comes free with all orders and holds 18 gift packs. RRP ÂŁ19.99 per pack of 50 capsules. Available via UK wholesaler Gustalia. gustalia.com

Inspired by the traditional festive dessert, Lyme Bay Winery has created a Christmas Pudding Wine. The new product accompanies its mulled wine: a blend of damson, elderberry and traditional festive spices (RRP ÂŁ8.49 per 75cl bottle). Also new to the festive range are the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gift boxes, which contain miniature wines RI HOGHUEHUU\ HOGHUĹ´RZHU blackberry, ginger, and sloe. RRP ÂŁ11.59. lymebaywinery.co.uk

Vinegar Shed has added Riserva San Massimo Carnaroli rice to its stock. Grown in the Ticino Valley, the importer says over 44 natural VSULQJV ĹľOWHU ZDWHU LQWR WKH ULFH paddies before being harvested, dried and air-dried, and husked using traditional stone presses. vinegarshed.com

Bombay Streetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Indian cooking kits are described as â&#x20AC;&#x153;easy-to-useâ&#x20AC;? and will appeal to â&#x20AC;&#x153;todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s savvy consumers demanding healthier, convenient, authentic yet costeffective solutionsâ&#x20AC;?. The kits are available in six varieties: tikka masala, korma, madras, jalfrezi, URJDQ MRVK DQG PDVDOD ĹľVK 553 ÂŁ2.39. bombaystreetuk.com

Confectionery company Lavolio KDV FUHDWHG ĹľYH PLQLDWXUH JLIW wrapped sets in time for the festive season. The collection includes one of each of the FRPSDQ\Ĺ&#x2018;V ĹśDYRXUV LQ ĹľYH J tins, all gift wrapped with a handtied Lavolio ribbon. RRP ÂŁ25. lavolio.com

Miles Finest Teas has added a loose-leaf Christmas tea to its range. Packaged in the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new foil embossed cartons, the product contains 100g of loose leaf black tea with various Christmas spices. Trade price ÂŁ3.85 per 100g pack (RRP ÂŁ5.15). djmiles.co.uk

Bean & Pod has extended its range of chocolates in time for the JLIWLQJ VHDVRQ 7KH QHZ ĹśDYRXUV include milk chocolate caramel peanut bites, milk chocolate toffee caramels, dark chocolate peanut butter snacks, and chocolate honeycomb. RRP ÂŁ3.99 per 150g box. beanandpod.com

Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

Last Minute Christmas Ideas The Fine Cheese Coâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Partners for Cheese range aims to enhance any Christmas cheese-board. The collection includes IHVWLYH 7RDVW )RU &KHHVH with spiced fruits & pecans (RRP ÂŁ3.50 per 100g), sour cherry, cranberry & star anise compĂ´te (RRP ÂŁ6.50 per 260g), port, blood orange & pomegranate jelly (RRP ÂŁ5.50, 140g), and whole damsons macerated with gin (RRP ÂŁ7.50 per 380g). Ć&#x201C;QHFKHHVH FR XN

Brindisa has introduced two new spreadable soft cured meats ideal for DOWHUQDWLYH &KULVWPDV canapĂŠs. The Majorcan Pork Negre Sobrasada (hot or mild) is a â&#x20AC;&#x153;meaty, rich sausage made with paprika, a melting texture and pleasant smokinessâ&#x20AC;? (RRP ÂŁ12.14 SHU J $OWHUQDWLYHO\ ArteMonteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Potted Morcilla is gently seasoned with aniseed, salt, cinnamon, black SHSSHU FORYH FD\HQQH and oregano (RRP ÂŁ2.80 per 400g). brindisa.com

>> Isabelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bakehouse will be launching a handmade Christmas Cake with port. The all-butter rich fruit cake is soaked in Port, with ground almonds for extra Ĺ´DYRXU DQG D VHOHFWLRQ RI IHVWLYH VSLFHV EHIRUH EHLQJ topped with marzipan and fondant icing decoration. Trade price is ÂŁ12 for a sixinch gift size cake (RRP ÂŁ15). isabelsbakehouse.com

How we stock itâ&#x20AC;Ś

MARK KACARY, owners The Norfolk Deli, Hunstanton 7KH 1RUIRON 'HOL DYRLGV stocking traditional Christmas stock like panettone and stollen ZKLFK ZLOO EH DYDLODEOH LQ supermarkets at a lower price. Instead it focuses on stocking Christmas lines from small, local producers, including Winbirri Vineyard, Humpty Dumpty Brewery, and one of its best sellers, Candiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Chutney. Local cheeses from Nortonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dairy, Mrs

Lottieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bakehouseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new range of Christmas treats includes a Cracking Christmas Pud Biscotti. Gluten- and dairy-free, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ĺ?GHOLFDWHO\ VSLFHGĹ? Ć&#x201C;OOHG with fruit and twice-baked. Trade price ÂŁ3.20 for each bag of 12 pieces (RRP ÂŁ6-8). Alongside the biscotti is its UDQJH RI YHJDQ DQG JOXWHQ free mince pies â&#x20AC;&#x201C; mincemeat encased in a light almond pastry. Trade price ÂŁ3.50 per case of six (RRP ÂŁ6). lottiesbakehouse.com

Swazi brand Black Mamba has launched a gift set of its gourmet chilli sauces: cayenne, jalapeno, and habanero (from medium hot to extremely hot). The company says the sauces are made with locally grown ingredients and â&#x20AC;&#x153;no added nonsenseâ&#x20AC;?. blackmambachilli.com

Soft cured meats ideal for Christmas canapĂŠs

Teapigs has launched a Selection Box containing 10 of the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best-selling teas each in individually-wrapped envelopes. The varieties include English breakfast, Earl Grey, mao feng green tea, chamomile, peppermint, super fruit, rooibos, lemon & ginger, liquorice & mint, and chai. RRP ÂŁ9.50. teapigs.co.uk

October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

5HVSRQGLQJ WR WKH WKULYLQJ gin market, Franklin & Sons has relaunched its original tonic in larger 500ml sharing sizes to accompany the popular spirit at Christmas. The companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Natural Indian tonic water and Natural Light tonic ZDWHU DUH ERWK DYDLODEOH LQ the larger packaging, which now comes with a twist cap so the product can be resealed and refrigerated. franklinandsons.co.uk

Kent based Cocoba Chocolateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Christmas gift tins are available ĹľOOHG ZLWK VDOWHG FDUDPHO RU VDOWHG WRIIHH WUXIĹśHV 7UDGH SULFH IRU WKH salted caramel medium gift tin is ÂŁ4.85 (RRP ÂŁ8.95), while the large salted toffee tin has a trade price of ÂŁ6.47 (RRP ÂŁ11.95). cocobachocolate.com

7HPSOHV DQG :LOORZ )DUP also do well during the Christmas season, with its cheese counter making up 15-20% of the storeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s UHYHQXH â&#x20AC;&#x153;We also sell cases of gin,â&#x20AC;? says Kacary. Ĺ?/DVW \HDU ZDV WKH Ć&#x201C;UVW full onslaught of gin, we ordered in so much because of its popularity. The beauty of gin is there are so many types. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a gin out there for HYHU\RQH Ĺ? norfolk-deli.co.uk

Christmas dinner in a pie Pieminister has announced that it will be releasing a brand-new Cracker pie to the market this month. Made with free-range British turkey, ham, parsnips, thyme and Amontillado Sherry, WKH Ć&#x201C;OOLQJ LV HQFDVHG LQ D

suet lid and all-butter shortcrust base. The new product joins the existing Christmas lines LQFOXGLQJ D YHJHWDULDQ cheddar & chestnut pie, game pie and a steak & stilton pie. pieminister.co.uk

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Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

Proud to announce two more Great Taste awards for 2017

Small-batch unique vinegars made with love and care by some of the best European artisans; carefully sourced with exciting WMRKPI ZEVMIXEP [MRI LIVF ERH JVYMX ¾EZSYVW HIWMKRIH XS thrill acetic aesthetes everywhere!

For more about our award-winning Black Mitcham peppermint chocolates and teas: visit www.summerdownmint.com

Your resistance will crumble this Christmas.

See the full range at deans.co.uk

We still hand-bake our shortbread to Helen Dean’s exacting standards using her very own recipe and traditional ingredients. It’s the Dean’s way and as far as we’re concerned, it’s the only way to ensure our baking tastes just as good as my mother used to make.

October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

For more information, contact us on 07854892065 or info@vinegarshed.com

Last Minute Christmas Ideas Billingtonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Gingerbread is now baked and manufactured at the Image on Food headquarters in Shropshire by artisan baker, Tim Hopcroft. The JLQJHUEUHDG Ć&#x201C;QJHUV are packed in three layers presented in an illustrated box, including viewing window, product history and serving suggestions. The packs will be available for the trade in cases of 12 for ÂŁ25.12 (RRP ÂŁ2.99 per unit). billingtons.co.uk

Cornwall-based Chocolarder has launched a limited-edition bean-tobar chocolate made with Peruvian cocoa beans and edible gold leaf. With notes of caramel, woody citrus and warm orange, the gold, frankincense and myrrh 65% bar has a trade price of ÂŁ27.50 per 10 x 70g bar (RRP ÂŁ5.49). chocolarder.com

Borough Wines & Beers has launched a range of handmade, booze-infused chutneys and conserves ideal for a cheeseboard at Christmas. The cocktail conserves include Negroni marmalade, bergamot Tom Collins marmalade, and a Bloody Mary chutney. RRP from ÂŁ4.95 per unit. boroughwines.co.uk

Everything needed to make fresh Mozzarella, Ricotta, Burrata, soft goatsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; cheese, and soft cowsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; cheese at home

Cheesemonger Paxton :KLWĆ&#x201C;HOG has created a cheese-making kit which it says has everything needed to make fresh Mozzarella, Ricotta, Burrata, soft goats cheese, and soft cows cheese at home. Inside the kit is a 0-100Â°C thermometer, citric acid (30g), cheese salt (30g), cheese cloth, rennet tablets (x2), basket mould, and recipe booklet. Trade price ÂŁ11.50 each for a pack of six. SD[WRQDQGZKLWĆ&#x201C;HOG co.uk

Zest & Zing has introduced â&#x20AC;&#x153;A Taste Ofâ&#x20AC;? gift sets, each containing four small glass jars of spices, KHUEV DQG EOHQGV 7KH ĹľYH YDULHWLHV DUH WDLORUHG WR D VSHFLĹľF culinary region of the world: Italy, Greece, Asia, India, and the Middle East. RRP ÂŁ20-35. zestandzing.co.uk

New for this year from Rosebud Preserves is a satsuma & Masons Gin marmalade which is coarse cut with botanical notes of lavender, juniper and star anise. The company has also released a cherry & Amaretto jam which is a blend of sweet and sour cherries enriched with bittersweet notes of almond liqueur. RRP ÂŁ3.75 per 227g. rosebudpreserves.co.uk

Awani has launched a gift collection of its artisan tropical fruit preserves wrapped in batik (the ancient Indonesian craft of painting and dying cotton cloth). Inside each wrapping is a taster set of 3 x 28g jars of jams (pink guava, VWUDZEHUU\ NDIĆ&#x201C;U OLPH DQG mango) and marmalades (lime, Balinese tangerine, and lime with ginger). Trade price ÂŁ6 (RRP ÂŁ12). awani.com

Aiming to deliver a sense of nostalgia to consumers, Cottage Delight has launched its new Village Store Collection. The independent store-themed range â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The Cheese Deli, Tea Rooms, Farmshop and Smokehouse (RRP ÂŁ14.95) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; features illustrated packaging containing the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best-selling products. cottagedelight.co.uk

Monty Bojangles has ODXQFKHG LWV YHU\ Ć&#x201C;UVW special edition product for the festive season, called Winter Wanderland. The 285g box is a collection of assorted cocoa dusted WUXIĹ´HV LQ VL[ YDULHWLHV Choccy Scoffy, Orange Angelical, Pistachio Marooned, and Popcorn Carousel. RRP ÂŁ7. montybojangles.com

Farm-based family business Burtree Puddingsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Christmas puddings range is now available. Laced with rum, barley wine and stout, its deluxe Christmas pudding is said to be the most alcoholic of the three. The traditional pudding has more texture from the DGGLWLRQ RI Ĺ´DNHG DOPRQGV RRP ÂŁ4.99 per 225g, ÂŁ8.99 per 450g, and ÂŁ14.99 per 900g. burtreepuddings.co.uk

Shed 1 Distillery will be relaunching its Festive Tipple Gin at the end of October during a celebration of its 1 year anniversary. Described as â&#x20AC;&#x153;delicate, yet fullbodiedâ&#x20AC;? the gin is a mix of cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, sultanas, cherries, and â&#x20AC;&#x153;lightly sweetenedâ&#x20AC;? orange and lemon zest. Trade SULFHV e SHU FO 553 ÂŁ11-13.50), ÂŁ20.83-24.17 per 50cl (RRP ÂŁ32-39). shed1distillery.com

Aiming to re-energise the traditional Christmas dinner, Ross & Ross has launched its very own Roast range, featuring a turkey rub, roast beef rub, roast potato oil, Brussel sprout dust, pigs in blanket dust, and a roast ham glaze. rossandrossfood.co.uk

Dorset-based Chococo has added an assorted chocolate variety to its best-selling range of Nutcracker Tubes (ÂŁ6.50 per 100g each). (DFK WXEH LV ĹľOOHG ZLWK VROLG chocolate festive shapes including snowmen, Santas and Christmas trees. chococo.co.uk

Poetic License Distillery has created a new seasonal Fireside *LQ ZKLFK KDV ĹśDYRXUV RI PXOOHG winter fruit such as clementine and cranberries, combined with the mulling spices of cinnamon, clove and nutmeg. Available in 70cl (RRP ÂŁ34.95). poeticlicensedistillery.com

Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

Fruit from the Fall

Folkingtonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Juices, The Workshop, Endlewick House, Arlington, East Sussex BN26 6RU 01323 485602 info@folkingtons.com

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The Original Candy Co Ltd Confectionery Corner, 4 Wessex Road, Bourne End, Bucks. SL8 5DT

For Orders or further information: orders@rossandrossfood.co.uk 01608 645503 46

October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

01628 520 927 enquiries@originalcandyco.com www.chocca-mocca.com www.originalcandyco.com

SHOW PREVIEW Part exhibition, part conference, Food Matters Live is back at ExCeL London on 21st-23rd November. Here’s why you should make room for it in your diary.

Six reasons to visit… Food Matters Live

Get in the zone

An all-star stage

Set up the best meetings

Don’t be daunted by the prospect of more than 800 exhibitors across the event. The exhibition area has been divided into various zones for ease. These include the Free-From zone, the Drink Well zone and the Enterprise zone, which features businesses under two years old. New for 2017 are the Natural & Organic and Healthy Snack zones.

One of the show’s major points of difference is that it also houses a full conference schedule across three days. This year’s speakers include Heston Blumenthal, who will discuss integrating cooking into education, and ex-Sainsburys CEO Justin King, on the future of retail. A host of other topics – including Brexit’s impact, sugar reduction and lab-grown food – will be tackled in a programme of panel discussions.

This year, Food Matters Live is running a new matchmaking service that will help exhibitors and visitors pre-arrange meetings at the event. Match lets businesses identify useful partnerships around key themes, from healthy snacking through to future food technology. It also includes a Meet the Buyer programme, with buyers from retailers and foodservice actively seeking new products.

See the world

Learn from the experts

An interactive experience

Visitors looking for products from outside the UK could browse a number of country-themed pavilions, including those from Belgium, Denmark, France, Finland, Greece, Hungary, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, Portugal, Peru and the Netherlands.

The Food Matters Live 2017 seminar schedule assembles some 300 expert speakers and is structured around seven individual themes, including packaging design, the future of food retail and tackling obesity.

The show will play host to four themed visitor attractions, designed to bring the theories and topics from the conferences and seminars to life. Visitors will find live demos and installations, including the Food Matters Live Experimental Café, across the exhibition floor.

Visit foodmatterslive.com to register now for your free ticket Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

Two Great Taste 1-stars awarded in 2017

PICKLED ONIONS, CHUTNEYS, MARMALADES, JAMS & CURDS SPICY CARROT CHUTNEY

2XU UDQJH LV KHDGOLQHG ZLWK ÁDYRXUV of pickled onions with an eye catching brand design which will enhance any condiment shelf. :H ZRXOG OLNH WR GHYHORS SDUWQHUVKLSV ZLWK wholesalers and retailers who share the Mrs Picklepot ethos that food should be fun, tasty and exciting

CHRISTMAS CAKE WITH PORT HANDMADE IN THE WYE VALLEY

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Handmade by Isabel, this delicious all butter rich fruit cake is the perfect afternoon treat! The port soaked fruit help to generate a well-deserved fruity punch. It has a contemporary fondant icing decoration and is available in loaf slice packs or 6 inch rounds.

isabel@isabelsbakehouse.com | 07966 592 368

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The Cocktail collection We are now launching our brand new cocktail collection - an innovative range of jam and marmalade inspired by our favourite cocktails. Just like our existing range of preserves, these can be enjoyed on a crumpet or used in a range of sweet, savoury or cocktail recipes.

Seren s

KITCHEN TA S T E T H E P L E A S U R E OF PRESERVING

Availab le from August 2017

The Cocktail collection consists of: Gin, Lemon and Cucumber Jelly Marmalade Black Cherry Martini Jam Grapefruit Julep Marmalade Maiden’s Blush Marmalade Each Presentation pack comes with a recipe booklet

Garlic, the heart of all flavour!

WHAT THE JUDGES SAY...

Stock up for a Wight Christmas with our best selling, award-winning pickle . It is mostly garlic, which is mostly why it tastes amazing with mostly everything.

“Very fruity, zesty citrus with a ‘nip’ from limoncello. Lovely taste. Could be useful ingredient for all sorts of things”. Dalemain Marmalade Award Judge, 2017

Available direct or though Cotswold Fayre.

www.thegarlicfarm.co.uk | wholesale@thegarlicfarm.co.uk | 01983 865 378 48

October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

hello@serenskitchen.co.uk

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ARTISAN PRODUCERS We aren’t big fans of unconventional flavours. For us, history hasn’t shown these to do great things.

Founder Marion Darlington with her daughters, Sarah and Wendy (right)

Curd is the word FFD speaks to Mrs Darlington’s about Brexit’s impact, sticking to traditional flavours and the prospect of adding gin to its preserves By Lauren Phillips

It’s probably fair to say that the Mrs Darlington’s brand has become synonymous with lemon curd. As preserves flavoured with herbs or infused with gin continue to enter the market, Mrs Darlington’s Legendary Lemon Curd still dominates its sales and is one of the most popular products stocked by retailers. First established by Marion Darlington and now run by her daughters, Wendy and Sarah Darlington, the brand has withstood the peaks and troughs of the food market over its 30 years in the industry. It’s now one of the leading producers in the independent jam sector. That isn’t without its challenges, however, and even a large, established company like Mrs Darlington’s is feeling the current effects of Brexit because it uses imported ingredients. “We will undoubtedly have to take a hit on margin this year given the current situation,” Darlington tells FFD. “But we’re very fortunate to be in a strong enough position to do that in the short term.” The preserve producer is currently avoiding increasing its prices for retailers by absorbing some of the costs. Though, Darlington admits they have the scale and loyal trade base to do so. “It must be very difficult if you’re a small manufacturer trying to get going,” she says. “We see a lot of small producers come in but struggle to get a foothold as their prices are often ‘super premium’.” “If I’m being brutally honest, we seem to

weather that storm very well, because we have the right balance of price and quality,” says Darlington. “Our distributors are also pretty successful at shifting retailers to us.” In response to retailers consolidating their shelf space, Darlington’s is focusing on creating point of sale tools like its recipe cards, than launching new products. “We will probably only launch one product in the next year,” says Darlington. “Retailers only have so much shelf space. I think it’s just about making the really strong lines sell for retailers than just constantly launching new products.” Darlington’s are also sceptical of the trend for unconventionally flavoured preserves which have become popular amongst smaller producers. “We aren’t big fans of unconventional flavours,” says Darlington. “History hasn’t shown these to do great things in the core retail trade.” These quirkier products can also invariably end up being one-off gift purchases and that’s not the business Darlington’s wants to be in. “I think you can get carried away looking

Recipe cards are important point of sale materials for Darlington’s stockists

at the market and think ‘we need to come out with lots of fancy and interesting sounding new flavours’, ” she says. “But if they’re just a gift choice then we aren’t really helping our core base of customers.” “Most people can appreciate the quality and are happy to put our products on the table day in, day out. We don’t want to be a gift purchase, we want to be a regular family choice.” Besides, it’s the traditional flavours that stand the test of time. Its Legendary Lemon Curd continues to dominate sales with the company’s 3,000 UK stockists. Exports are also growing, with customers in the US, Canada, Australia, Germany and – its biggest export market – Sweden. “We’ve experimented with many different curd flavours over the years, some of which have alcohol in them,” says Darlington. “Lots do have a very good following, but they never come close to our Legendary Lemon Curd.” Despite not being fans of the entirely eccentric preserves, Mrs Darlington’s says it does keep an eye on the mainstream taste trends that receive the most engagement from consumers. It’s spicy tomato & sticky onion chutney, which launched 18 months ago, follows the consumer appetite for spicier flavours. And it’s now one of Darlington’s best-selling lines. “We also introduced a sweet chilli relish,” she adds. “We wouldn’t have done that 20 years ago.” So, what does the producer think of the trend for gin in jam? “We watch that and I think it’s interesting,” says Darlington. “Do I think they’re going to be a massive product over time? Probably not. “It’s more likely to sit in the gift category but we’ll see, gin may be one of the trends that sticks a little more. We’ll keep an eye on that one.” mrsdarlingtons.com

Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

For all Your Bakery Kneads

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October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

· robert@orchardpigs.co.uk · www.orchardpigs.co.uk

SHELF TALK WHATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NEW

Soda Folk announces new soft drink for adults By Lauren Phillips

Drinks company Soda Folk has refocused its brand with the launch of five new low sugar adult soft drinks, two years after it entered the market with its American-style craft sodas. The new range was developed by founder Ken Graham during his wifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pregnancy when he was looking for alcohol-free alternatives. The five flavours â&#x20AC;&#x201C; juniper, grape, orange, black cherry, and apple â&#x20AC;&#x201C; are all inspired by classic alcoholic drinks including cider, Prosecco and gin & tonic. Graham said he tested the new lines at The Bar & Pub Show where the flavours were well received. â&#x20AC;&#x153;People wanted a lower-in-calorie and no-added-sugar drink that still had an adult taste.â&#x20AC;? Available in 330ml glass bottles (RRP ÂŁ2.49 each), the drinks will be pitched at more health-conscious consumers via the retail market as opposed to the â&#x20AC;&#x153;indulgent settingâ&#x20AC;? of restaurants and bars, which already stock its

root beer and cream soda. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The good thing about these drinks is that they have a dry finish,â&#x20AC;? said Graham. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We use fruit that is naturally low in sugar, so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not overly sweet but has a tart edge.â&#x20AC;? Soda Folkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s original cream soda and root beer â&#x20AC;&#x201C; made from pure cane sugar and Madagascan vanilla extract â&#x20AC;&#x201C; were developed in a bid to offer an additive-free alternative to American craft sodas in the UK market, after imports were effectively banned by the Food Standards Agency for excessive additive content. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We had a good amount of success with the root beer and cream soda,â&#x20AC;? said Graham. â&#x20AC;&#x153;But the feedback was people wanted a soda that wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just a treat, but something they could drink every day.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x153;There is always a place for the traditional treat soda, but I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t like to see them marketed as a competition for water. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nice to offer a soda that people can drink on a day-to-day basis and without consequence.â&#x20AC;? VRGDIRON FRP

O Heat & Eat is a microwaveable crisps-withdip concept from )DLUĆ&#x201C;HOGV Farm Crisps. The concept aims to give consumers the sense of eating hand-cooked crisps â&#x20AC;&#x153;fresh from the fryerâ&#x20AC;?. $YDLODEOH LQ WZR Ĺ´DYRXUV sea salt with tomato salsa and cheese & chive with a caramelised onion dip. RRP ÂŁ2.49 per 175g. IDLUĆ&#x201C;HOGVIDUPFULVSV FR XN

O Gourmet popcorn company 3RSFRUQ 6KHG has unveiled a new range of 28g grab Ĺ&#x152;QĹ? JR SDFNV $YDLODEOH LQ WKUHH Ĺ´DYRXUV Ĺ&#x160; Pop â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Choc, pecan pie and salted caramel Ĺ&#x160; HDFK SDFN LV XQGHU FDORULHV 553 e SRSFRUQVKHG FRP

Stag %DNHULHV has launched the Sprouting O Grains range, consisting of oatcakes with VSURXWHG EURZQ ULFH Ĺ´RXU FKHHVH ZDIHUV ZLWK VSURXWHG UHG ZKHDW Ĺ´RXU ]HVW\ ELVFXLWV ZLWK VSURXWHG VRUJKXP Ĺ´RXU DQG ZDWHU ELVFXLWV ZLWK VSURXWHG RDW Ĺ´RXU ZDOQXW Ć&#x201C;JV 553 ÂŁ2.20-2.95 per 125g pack. VWDJEDNHULHV FR XN

Van Strien combines old and new in latest packs Gin round-up Pitching itself as the â&#x20AC;&#x153;worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ć&#x201C;UVW JLQ GLVWLOOHG ZLWK FROODJHQĹ? CollaGin combines the growing trend for premium gin with the must-have beauty ingredient. Distilled with 11 botanicals including pink grapefruit and orris, the gin has D Ĺ?VPRRWKĹ? Ć&#x201C;QLVK ZLWK QRWHV of citrus and star anise. RRP ÂŁ34.99. FROODJLQ FR XN

'XQQHW %D\ 'LVWLOOHU\ has launched a new special Autumn Edition of its Rock Rose Gin. The product has the same base botanicals as the original, but the citrus elements have been lowered to make the â&#x20AC;&#x153;blackberries, raspberries, blueberries and spices more prominentâ&#x20AC;?. RRP ÂŁ37.50. GXQQHWED\GLVWLOOHUV FR XN

Grown-up confectionery company +ROO\Ĺ?V Lollies has launched its rhubarb gin & custard humbugs. The new sweets combine a tart rhubarb gin with vanilla custard to give a modern grown-up twist on the traditional confectionery. 7UDGH SULFH e SDFN VL]H LV 160g sold in boxes of 12 (RRP ÂŁ6.60-6.95). KROO\VOROOLHV FR XN

Dutch family-owned bakery Van Strien has launched a complete packaging re-design which it unveiled during the Speciality & Fine Food Fair. â&#x20AC;&#x153;With the new design, we aim to maintain the authentic feel of our traditional patisserie and enhance the brand while at the same time we add a twist of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;contemporaryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; to further increase the attractiveness of the packsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, said Els Van Strien. The company have also introduced two new items into their savoury biscuits line: all butter cheese & onion straws and all butter multiseed straws. RRP ÂŁ2.99. The new items will be available via Holleys, The Cress Co, and Hider foods. van-strien.nl/en/home Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

SHELF TALK Chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s selection FOOD WRITER CLARE HARGREAVES INTERVIEWS TOP BRITISH CHEFS ABOUT THEIR FAVOURITE STORECUPBOARD PRODUCTS 2

1 4

ROSS HUNTER Head chef at Backwell House, Bristol Before taking up his position at Backwell House, Ross Hunter previously worked at The Stonemill at 5RFNĆ&#x201C;HOG 7KH 6ZDQ DW $OPRQGVEXU\ DQG <HR 9DOOH\ backwellhouse.co.uk

1 Godminster vintage organic cheddar We do a cheeseboard of local cheeses and this is always on it. Matured for up to 12 months, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more intense than other cheddars. I also use it to make FDXOLĹ´RZHU FKHHVH , PDNH a custard which I scramble then blitz and liquidize. The dish comes out like a rarebit. I buy the cheese through Arthur David or the Bristol Cheese Company. godminster.com

is handmade by Charles Macleod Butchers on the Isle of Lewis. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s made with Scottish oatmeal which gives it a good texture, and the seasonings and top-quality ingredients give it real depth RI Ĺ´DYRXU Ĺ&#x160; IDU EHWWHU WKDQ cheaper versions. We serve it for breakfast, and as predinner snacks. I love pairing it with scallops and dressing the dish with a blackberry vinaigrette. charlesmacleod.co.uk/ products/black-pudding

2 Stornoway Black Pudding Stornoway Black Pudding

3 Somerset charcuterie I love these guys, and they happen to be local too, which

is great. And their products are a good price. I use them mostly for weddings, especially their beef bresaola, cured duck breast, and chorizo. somersetcharcuterie.com 4 Bay Tree jams Bay Treeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jams are the best in the region and their Beautiful Blackcurrant is VXSHUE Ĺ&#x160; QRW WRR VZHHW TXLWH sharp as it should be. We serve this with scones for afternoon tea and also at breakfast. We buy the jam in 3kg tubs through Arthur David. thebaytree.co.uk

New packs highlight brand identity for Bristol-based Adamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Chocolate By Lauren Phillips Adamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Chocolate has launched its new brand and packaging one year on from winning The Seed Fundâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s annual prize. The Bristol-based company unveiled its Organic Cold Pressed Chocolate in re-sealable pouches at this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Speciality & Fine Food Fair. Each 82g (RRP ÂŁ5.75) pouch features an illustration of a criollo tree, which grows cacao, alongside representations RI HDFK Ĺ´DYRXU combination, which owner Adam Farag said conveys the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s identity and the ingredients used. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re trying to educate people that cacao can be cold-pressed,â&#x20AC;? Farag told FFD. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Cold-pressing the beans means you get more of the nutrients than 52

roasting, grinding and heating them. So, we wanted to use images that conveyed this in our branding.â&#x20AC;? Since winning The Seed Fund in September 2016,

October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

Farag and co-owner Mark Claydon have spent the last year focusing their attention on developing their brand; working with branding and marketing consultancy The Collaborators to create the new packaging. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been working with chocolate for the past 14 years, so we know our product really well,â&#x20AC;? said Farag. â&#x20AC;&#x153;But the last year has been about gearing up the packaging and making sure there is identity in the branding.â&#x20AC;? He added that the company has learnt a lot about scalingup operations and pitching to stores. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in a situation now where we have a distributor [Diverse Fine Food] and are selecting shops,â&#x20AC;? he said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We want to build a brand that will go on for a long time, making sure that we grow at the right pace to support stores.â&#x20AC;? adamschocolates.com

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SHELF TALK Gourmade freshens up frozen aisle with new premium ready meals Gourmade is a new manufacturer of premium frozen ready-meals aiming to fill a gap in the market for â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;no fussâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; convenience solutions for the â&#x20AC;&#x153;timestarved consumerâ&#x20AC;?. The new brand, which debuted its initial range at this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Speciality & Fine Food Fair, said the products would provide a â&#x20AC;&#x153;high-quality alternative to meals cooked from scratch at homeâ&#x20AC;?. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Time is a precious commodity to so many people,â&#x20AC;? said co-founder Joanna Devenish. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve identified that consumers have high expectations but currently their needs are not being met by many of the products in this category.â&#x20AC;? Consisting of seven main meals, five sides and three desserts, the line-up includes

WHATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S TRENDING NICK BAINES KEEPS YOU UP-TO-DATE WITH THE NEWEST DISHES, FLAVOURS AND INNOVATIONS IN FOOD & DRINK

Organic specialist Rod & Benâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s has introduced IRXU QHZ VRXS Ĺ´DYRXUV to its range for the forthcoming winter season: carrot & cumin, leek & potato (RRP ÂŁ2.99 each), honey glazed root YHJ 553 e DQG rustic chicken broth (RRP e rodandbens.com

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1 Low alcohol beer The unrelenting tide of craft beer has consisted mainly of hopforward ales at ABVs around 6-9%. This makes popping out for a couple of swift pints rather treacherous, but many breweries are now incorporating low percentage beers into their RIIHULQJ ZLWKRXW FRPSURPLVLQJ RQ Ĺ´DYRXU Brewdogâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Nanny State has increased its presence in the supermarkets, while Big Drop Brewingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 0.5% stout was recently awarded Gold at the International Beer Challenge. 0HDQZKLOH 6LUHQĹ?V IXOO Ĺ´DYRXUHG ,3$ +DOI 0DVW sits at just 2.8% while offering pronounced notes of grapefruit and mango. 2 Sushi 2.0 Grab-and-go sushi, which has been somewhat stagnant in the UKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lunch RIIHULQJ KDV Ć&#x201C;QDOO\ VWDUWHG WR XS LWV JDPH Bento box specialist Mission Sato recently opened a line of London kiosks offering gourmet lunch packs starting from ÂŁ6. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll Ć&#x201C;QG YHJDQ VXVKL ZUDSV DW %ULJKWRQĹ?V +DSS\ Maki, made using a base of seasoned rice DQG QRUL Ć&#x201C;OOHG ZLWK D UDQJH RI FRORXUIXO DQG instagrammable) ingredients. This all comes at a time when high street sushi chain Wasabi is FRQĆ&#x201C;UPHG WR RSHQ FRXQWHUV ZLWKLQ 0 6 )RRG Hall sites across London and Waitrose has recently opened its 50th in-store sushi bar. 3 Funky pickles In the wake of kimchi and LWV DEXQGDQW XVH LQ HYHU\WKLQJ IURP EXUJHUV to cheese toasties, sauerkraut is now getting some attention. By utilising ingredients such as pineapple, ginger and turmeric, producers like PaMa Raw Food and Bottlebrush Ferments are breathing new life into what has traditionally EHHQ TXLWH DQ XQORYHG LQJUHGLHQW 3XUHO\ Pickled Eggs are also experimenting and NQRFNLQJ RXW HJJV SUHVHUYHG ZLWK JKRVW chillies, horseradish and garam masala.

October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

WHATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NEW

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Two new nut butters from Nutural World Nutural World has developed two new SURGXFWV ZKLFK LW VD\V RIIHUV D Ĺ?XQLTXH twistâ&#x20AC;? on its existing almond butter: savoury smoked almond spread, and sweet DOPRQG GHOLJKW 3LWFKLQJ LWVHOI DV WKH Ĺ?Ć&#x201C;UVW pure smoked nut butter on the marketâ&#x20AC;?, WKH VPRNHG DOPRQG VSUHDG LV PDGH IURP roasted, hickory smoked almonds and a SLQFK RI +LPDOD\DQ salt. By contrast, the RULHQWDO LQVSLUHG almond delight is a EOHQG RI DOPRQGV and raisins with a Ĺ?GHOLFDWH DIWHU WDVWH VFHQW RI URVHĹ? 553 ÂŁ5.70 per 170g jar IRU HDFK Ĺ´DYRXU nuturalworld.com

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October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

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DELI OF THE MONTH Bristol has grown into something of a foodie Mecca in the last decade and Clifton institution Papadeli has been there throughout. But that doesn’t mean it hasn’t had to adapt its model and its premises to move with the times. Interview by Michael Lane

Floor by floor DURING MY MEETING with Simon MacDonnell he pulls out a ledger tabbed out with post-it notes documenting various incoming deliveries. “Other delis might aspire to have a back office or EPoS system,” the co-owner of Bristol’s Papadeli tells FFD, “but we do everything by hand – all stock-taking, everything.” “I think we’re probably a bit mad,” he adds. It might be slightly fairer to use the term “old school”, because this accounting system is not exactly detrimental to business. And if you were to get your hands on that paperwork, the numbers would bear this out. Papadeli is turning over the best part of £1m and this is roughly split 50:50 between its deli and an outside catering operation that is thriving in a city that spoils its residents for dining and deli choices. What’s more, the shop pre-dates the UK’s foodie boom and Bristol’s particularly impressive take on it. It’s been on the same spot, a threestorey Victorian building just off the bustling Whiteladies Road in Clifton, for the last 15 years.

The blue and white frontage is the definition of calm exterior and the high-ceilinged deli on the ground floor – well-stocked with Continental and premium local items – continues that theme. But the next two floors are an entirely different matter. On the second level, there is an office receiving deliveries and a well-staffed kitchen cranking out items for the deli’s counters. And on the top level, another four chefs have little time to enjoy the view of swaying treetops from their kitchen because they are preparing dishes for weddings and events at the weekend. At times, the hubbub on these upper decks renders the softly spoken MacDonnell barely audible. He is remarkably calm for a chef but that might be something to do with his first career. After a decade in teaching he retrained as a chef at Leith’s and worked in London as the era of the gastropub dawned in the ‘90s. He then moved back to his home city of Bristol in 1998 and took a job with the famous chef and restaurateur Barney Haughton (brother of Better Food Co owner Phil) in his famous Rocinantes

VITAL STATISTICS

Location: 84 Alma Rd, Clifton, Bristol BS8 2DJ Established: 2002 Turnover: £920,000 No. of staff: 12 full-time, 10 part-time Retail space: 650 sq ft (ground floor) Average spend: £10-£20 58

October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

Simon MacDonnell set up Papadeli with wife Catrin in 2002

and Quartier Vert restaurants. It was in this last job, after the birth of his first son, that he was given the nickname Papa. MacDonnell decided that the working hours for chefs were not going to fit with the new family life he was embarking on. So, he and wife Catrin set up Papadeli on Alma Road just around the corner from the kitchens he had been working in. “When we opened, everybody said ‘you’re just off the main road’,” says MacDonnell with a mock gasp. “But we are opposite a car park that has 1,000 spaces.” “There are doom and gloom merchants whenever you open anything, but have confidence in yourself. You become a destination if you’re good enough. It is very crucial but there are more factors than the ideal location.” Perhaps one of the biggest factors in Papadeli’s success is that MacDonnell and his wife own the freehold of the building, which has allowed them to adjust the space to the business’s needs over the years. Back in 2002, they started with just the ground floor.

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“We purchased about £3,000-worth of stock, which we were quite frightened about, and it filled about an eighth of the shop,” recalls MacDonnell, adding that they needed to take out a small loan to fill the shop properly. Within a year or so of opening the couple realised it would be difficult to kick on with retail alone so they fitted out another floor and opened a café. “You can run a deli like that in an affluent area like this and it’s a good lifestyle but you soon realise you need add-ons to survive or to take you out of the technical side of running the business,” says MacDonnell. “After three years, you may be tired of sweeping the floor at 6 o’clock at night and not having any weekends. So you need to expand.” Having honed their model to a successful formula, MacDonnell says they considered developing a multi-site business and opening more outlets. “If each deli only breaks even, all you end up doing is just having a lot of businesses with a lot of headaches,” he says, acknowledging that there is a certain benefit with economies of scale. In 2010, they decided to remove the secondfloor café area, leaving just a handful of seats in the deli itself. They lost 30 covers but these were only being used at lunchtime and the kitchen had

been underemployed during the afternoon. Papadeli did run a café at the Royal West of England Academy for five years, after reducing the size of its own, but it never did much more than break even. If they wanted to grow but keep the business all under one roof, then the MacDonnells realised that they would have to change what was happening under the roof. Given MacDonnell’s expertise, outside catering seemed like a logical step and his wife’s background in marketing and business has seen them build quite a client base in just four years. As well as one prestigious contract with a major client, Papadeli works with most of the city’s venues and also caters for one-off private events like weddings. While he says the catering relies on “unsung hero” Catrin and her constant networking and business development, MacDonnell says investing in skilled staff is also vital. You also need professional chefs, not “cooks”, who can handle volume – like a 120-person wedding. Offering them more sociable hours than restaurants and paying them above-average wages (that goes for staff across the business) has seen Papadeli retain its staff and that makes it CONTINUED ON PAGE 61

Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

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DELI OF THE MONTH easier to maintain the quality that MacDonnell says is imperative in such a competitive industry, “If you’re going to make a sandwich, it’s got to be the best sandwich. Otherwise, people can go to Marks & Spencer. Why would they come here?” The fare on offer to outside clients is “reflective” of what Papadeli offers in store. For instance, rather than meat-and-two-veg dishes, weddings are served with mezze platters that may feature similar Ottolenghi-style salads that appear behind the takeaway counter in the deli. “Downstairs is more than just a marketing tool,” says MacDonnell. “It holds its own, it brings people in and it also gives integrity, which is the most important thing.” It also plays a crucial part in Papadeli’s seasonal journey. “Each element of the business props up the other at certain points in the year, so it’s unique, it couldn’t be replicated.” November and December are when the deli takes over. Every shelf and space is filled with products for Christmas, even the last few eat-in spaces are removed. January needs to be a breakeven month and then the corporate event season

sees catering take up the bread-winning mantle for February, March and April in time for the deli to surge again around Easter. Summer and wedding season for catering take the cycle back to the beginning. Although a manager handles ordering and the day-to-day running downstairs (MacDonnell describes himself as “disposable” across all aspects of the business these days), he still enthuses about the deli. “I could’ve shut the shop below and made it into a catering kitchen and converted upstairs into flats,” he says, “or moved the whole shebang to Avonmouth or something. But I would lose my joi de vivre.” From the very beginning, MacDonnell has always advocated dealing direct, preferring a personal relationship with each supplier over ordering through a distributor. He’s also very particular about the profile of his products, whether they are Spanish and Italian staples or locally made chocolates. “It has got to have good packaging because we’re not an everyday supermarket. People are buying as a gift. “There’s so much olive oil out there. If you’re

going to sell one for £12-£15, it’s got to look good. People buy with their eyes.” While relatively few new suppliers are brought on board every year, MacDonnell encourages staff to rearrange displays to keep even the most loyal regulars interested. Generally, Papadeli aims for a 40% margin but this depends on perishability. Wines can sit on the shelf for longer, so they come in at 30%, while the selection of 30-odd cheeses (despite being renewed weekly thanks to catering) deliver more like 50%. Given some of the major shifts Papadeli has undergone over the years, you might think it would be due another but MacDonnell says there are “no grand designs, just more of what we do”. He adds: “One of the best ways of making money is looking at what you’re already doing and improving on your margins. So your turnover might be x amount, and in that turnover lies your secret. There’s no point improving that turnover if your profit remains the same so you’ve got to look at constantly saving money, clever accounting.” Who needs EPoS, eh? papadeli.co.uk

If you’re going to make a sandwich, it’s got to be the best sandwich. Otherwise, people can go to Marks & Spencer. Why would they come here?

Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

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AWARD WINNERS

The finest in food & drink Great Taste is the acknowledged benchmark for speciality food and drink. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a selection of products which scooped the coveted award in 2017

Spanish food supplier Bellota has won one-star at this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Great Taste Awards for its Senora Julia cooking chorizo picante. Made in La Rioja north of the Iberian Peninsula, the product is made with prime cut pork with sea salt, garlic, and smoked paprika. Its soft texture and high oil content makes the chorizo ideal for tapas dishes or cooked whole in a roll with peppers, rocket and aioli. Available in both 250g retail size and 2kg catering size, the chorizo comes in spicy and mild varieties. bellota.co.uk

The Dorset Dairy Coâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s low sugar Whole Milk Dorset Strained Yoghurt picked up a two-star award in Great Taste this year. The judges described the product as â&#x20AC;&#x153;a very thick, creamy yoghurt with very fresh citrus notes.â&#x20AC;? Said to be â&#x20AC;&#x153;Dorsetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s answer to Greek yoghurtâ&#x20AC;?, it is made from two ingredients: milk and live bio cultures. Available in 180g snack pots and 500g tubs with RRPs between ÂŁ1.20 and ÂŁ2.90. thedorsetdairyco.com

Based in the Yorkshire Dales, Brymor Dairy has been making real dairy ice cream from its herd of Guernsey cows since 1984. This year it won a twostar for its Black Cherry Whim Wham ice cream: a combination of vanilla ice cream with Italian Amarena cherries. Described as a â&#x20AC;&#x153;truly unique taste sensationâ&#x20AC;?, the ice cream has become one of the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular and best-selling Ĺ´DYRXUV $OO %U\PRU 'DLU\Ĺ?V UDQJH LQFOXGLQJ %ODFN Cherry, is now available nationwide in retail and catering containers. brymordairy.co.uk

Scarlett & Mustard SLFNHG XS D WRWDO RI Ć&#x201C;YH *UHDW 7DVWH DZDUGV this year. The producer was awarded four one-stars - for its UDVSEHUU\ FXUG Ć&#x201C;J MDP SORXJKPDQĹ?V SLFNOH DQG KRW VSLF\ WRPDWR VDOVD DQG D WZR VWDU IRU LWV FUDQEHUU\ RUDQJH MHOO\ Described as â&#x20AC;&#x153;a lovely aromatic jelly with sweet and sour notesâ&#x20AC;?, the two-star product is ideal for turkey but also recommended with game, lamb, or cheese. RRP ÂŁ2.99 per 200g jar. scarlettandmustard.co.uk

Tracklementsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; well-known strong horseradish cream has won a total of 10 Great Taste awards since 2000, including a top 50 foods award. Said to be â&#x20AC;&#x153;pokey and potentâ&#x20AC;?, the product is made using English horseradish root and fresh cream and is an ideal companion to a roast beef dinner. This year, the FRPSDQ\ DOVR SLFNHG XS D RQH VWDU IRU LWV FXFXPEHU VZHHW pepper relish - a tangy, sweet and sour relish with a hint of mustard seed and chilli. tracklements.co.uk

This year, teapigsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; was awarded two-stars for its Everyday Brew, which the company says is equivalent to a â&#x20AC;&#x153;buildersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; brewâ&#x20AC;?. The judges thought this product was an â&#x20AC;&#x153;excellent blendâ&#x20AC;? consisting of gutsy Assam, mellow Ceylon, and a powerful Rwandan tea. The blend is available in formats to suit all business needs; including catering packs, individually wrapped envelopes, loose, and in gift sets. teapigs.co.uk

Since launching 18 months ago, Solkiki Chocolatemaker has earned over 30 International awards, including four Great Taste awards, for its lightly processed, organic, directtrade, bean-to-bar, craft chocolate with complex Ĺ´DYRXU SURĆ&#x201C;OHV 7KLV \HDU the company won a two-star for its Gran Nativo dark milk chocolate from Peru, which the judges said was â&#x20AC;&#x153;rich, creamy and balancedâ&#x20AC;?. Judges also liked the â&#x20AC;&#x153;fruity, acidic and toasted coconutâ&#x20AC;? notes, not to mention the chocolate snap. The bars are dairy- and gluten-free and available in cases of 12 x 56g, trade price ÂŁ2.60 (RRP ÂŁ4.955.95). solkiki.co.uk Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

NEW MAFIA RANGE FROM THE COOK AT MR VIKKIS, AWARD WINNING CHILLI PRODUCTS MADE WITH UK CHILLIES FROM DEVON

RED SWEET JAPAPENO

Caithness Smokehouse is an award-winning cottage industry run by John and Christine. Together we are committed to the production of an excellent range of gourmet-smoked products. We use only the highest quality ﬁsh, meat, cheese and seafood, locally sourced from sustainable supplies. Our aim is to provide only the ﬁnest quality smoked food for today’s discerning market. We offer an extensive range of smoked products, including hot and cold smoked salmon, haddock, trout, seafood, and dairy produce.

01847 635 007 | www.caithness-smokehouse.com

Hot Smoked Trout

Smoked Butter

Kiln Smoked Salmon

Smoked Mussels

W W W.W I C K E DWO L F G I N . CO M P L E A S E D R I N K R E S P O N S I B LY ‘Wicked Wolf ®’, ‘Exmoor Gin™’ and ‘The Spirit of Exmoor ®’ are trademarks or registered trademarks of ‘The Old Chapel Brendon Limited’ registered in the UK.

October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

AWARD WINNERS Based in Devon, Hogs Bottom produces all its products in small batches by hand to maximise Ĺ´DYRXU XVLQJ ORFDOO\ JURZQ SURGXFH ZKHUH seasonally possible. This year the business picked up a two-star award for its Kashmiri WRPDWR FKXWQH\ D JHQWO\ Ĺ´DYRXUHG ,QGLDQ style chutney, which is recommended with strong cheeses, poppadoms, and pulled pork. Gluten-free and suitable for vegetarians, the WUDGH SULFH LV e SHU FDVH RI [ J 553 e KRJVERWWRP FR XN

A family-owned business in West London, Bianca Marton creates pure chocolates that DUH KLJK LQ FRFRD FRQWHQW ,WV WUXIĹ´HV DUH dairy-free but still have the same smooth, VLON\ WH[WXUH DQG ULFK Ĺ´DYRXUV DV WKH FUHDP\ versions. This year the business won a two-star for its honeycomb pralines â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a 75% single origin Tanzanian Criollo chocolate VKHOO ZLWK D Ć&#x201C;QH JLDQGXMD KD]HOQXW DQG chocolate mix), and natural honeycomb made with pure acacia honey. biancamarton.com

Len and Mandy Walters of Cardigan Bay Fish KDYH EHHQ FDWFKLQJ SURFHVVLQJ DQG GUHVVLQJ Ć&#x201C;VK DQG VKHOOĆ&#x201C;VK IRU WKH ODVW \HDUV /HQ Ć&#x201C;VKHV LQ Cardigan Bay with their son, while Mandy dresses the products and sells them at produce markets. The company received a two-star for its potted crab and also for the dressed crab. The latter is a combination of brown and white crab with lemon, melted butter and seasoning. Mandyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mackerel patĂŠ consisting of smoked mackerel, fresh chives, spring onion and soft cheese also received one-star. FDUGLJDQED\Ć&#x201C;VK FR XN (VWDEOLVKHG LQ N S James is one of the oldest independent butchers in Wales and the only butcher in Monmouthshire to achieve the VWDWXV RI 5DUH %UHHG 6SHFLDOLVW ,W VHOOV KRPH NLOOHG PHDWV VRXUFHG ZLWKLQ D PLOH UDGLXV RI WKH VWRUH LQ 5DJODQ 7KH EXVLQHVV SLFNHG XS D WKUHH VWDU IRU its Welsh faggots in this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Great Taste awards. Made traditionally by hand with pork and lamb, they are recommended with onion gravy and mushy peas. QVMDPHV FR XN

Ollieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Orchard is a fruit-growing specialist in the heart of the Cheshire Countryside. The company was two-star awards for its Jonagold Cheshire and Ashmeadâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kernel &KHVKLUH DSSOH MXLFH ,W DOVR received two one-stars for its St (GPXQGV 3LSSLQ DQG (JUHPRQW 5XVVHW DSSOH MXLFHV 7KH 6W (GPXQGV 3LSSLQ LV GHVFULEHG as a â&#x20AC;&#x153;complex russet packed with Ĺ´DYRXUĹ? ZLWK WKH Ĺ?SHUIHFW EDODQFH RI DFLGLW\ ZLWK D KRQH\HG VZHHWQHVVĹ? ROOLHVRUFKDUG FR XN

6RXWKSRUW 3RWWHG 6KULPSV was founded LQ E\ VKULPS Ć&#x201C;VKHUPDQ -DPHV 3HHW ZLWK RYHU \HDUVĹ? H[SHULHQFH DQG ZKRVH family have been involved in the local industry for over four generations. The business was awarded a three-stars Great Taste for its Southport potted shrimps product. Said to be from a recipe that has EHHQ UHĆ&#x201C;QHG DQG GHYHORSHG RYHU PDQ\ years, the product uses locally caught brown shrimp which are mixed with Jamesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; unique blend of salt, spices and butter. SRWWHGVKULPS FR XN

Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

CONNECT TO THE FINE FOOD WORLD… …It’s just a click away! Membership to the Guild of Fine Food gets you exclusive access to our new members’ directory and forum. A place where food & drink producers and independent retailers can discuss tips on running your business more effectively, or ﬁnd best-selling products that can’t be found in the supermarkets.

JOIN TODAY Contact membership@gff.co.uk or call +44 (0)1747 825200 It’s one of the best business decisions you can make.

Fine Italian Foods F L A V O U R S O F I T A L Y

T +44 (0)20 8671 6622 E HQTXLULHV#¿QHLWDOLDQIRRGV FR XN

www.gff.co.uk |

October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9

@greattasteawards

W ZZZ ¿QHLWDOLDQIRRGV FR XN

GUILD TALK

QHZV IURP WKH JXLOG RI Ć&#x201C;QH IRRG TRAINING & EVENTS

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Mystery shopperâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; rating is major new retail benefit

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EVERY RETAIL member is to be offered an independent store inspection by mystery shopping specialist Shopper Anonymous, as WKH *XLOG IRFXVHV RQ VWUHQJWKHQLQJ LWV EHQHĆ&#x201C;WV package for delis, farm shops and food halls. The service, to be launched early 2018, will give each store a quality rating that can be displayed in the shop window, along ZLWK FRQĆ&#x201C;GHQWLDO IHHGEDFN IURP 6KRSSHU Anonymous to help them improve. The basic inspection will be offered free to all new members when they sign up, and at a heavily discounted rate to existing members. Retailers will also be able to upgrade to more detailed inspections at a discounted rate. Guild marketing director Tortie Farrand said LW ZRXOG EH WKH Ć&#x201C;UVW WLPH *XLOG PHPEHUVKLS had been linked to the quality of the shop, not just the type of shop. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just show they are worthy but also help them improve,â&#x20AC;? she said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;In that way we are mirroring what we do for producers entering Great Taste, who get valuable feedback on their products, regardless of the level of award.â&#x20AC;?

Academy of Cheese Level One (day course), London

Retail cheese training day, London

Retail Ready deli start-up training, London

Spirit of Christmas including Great Taste Market, London

Retail cheese training day, Dorset

1RYHPEHU 6

Retail cheese training day, Birmingham

World Cheese Awards, Tobacco Dock, London

We are urging policy-makers to consider the challenges of deposit returns schemes for retailers and consumers

The word on Westminster By Edward Woodall ACS 5(&(17 :((.6 VDZ D VLJQLĆ&#x201C;FDQW moment in the recycling debate that has far-reaching implications for shops, wholesalers and packaging suppliers, with the Scottish Government announcing a â&#x20AC;&#x153;deposit return schemeâ&#x20AC;? for bottles. More senior readers may remember such schemes from childhood: you collected bottles and returned them for a small cash sum to supplement your pocket money. Scotlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trailblazing scheme has sparked interest from other devolved governments and in London. The Westminster Environmental Audit Committee will be revisiting its inquiry on plastic recycling and Defra has set up a working group to look at the feasibility of a scheme. The implications are huge. Similar schemes on the Continent depend on shops of all sizes collecting, processing and returning plastic bottles (and perhaps other

packaging) for recycling. But 71% of small grocery retailers tell us they don't have the space for this in-store or would have to make sizeable changes to facilitate it. I LPDJLQH PDQ\ Ć&#x201C;QH IRRG UHWDLOHUV IHHO the same. Consumers aren't fans either: 70% say theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d prefer to use recycling bins at home than visit a shop or recycling centre. We are urging policy-makers to consider the challenges of deposit returns schemes for retailers and consumers and to look at improving existing household recycling before jumping to introduce expensive new infrastructure. Email me if you want to know more on return schemes and we can help you contact your MP about the implications for your business. edward.woodall@acs.org.uk

Edward Woodall is head of policy & public affairs at small shops group ACS.

7KH *XLOG RI )LQH )RRG UHSUHVHQWV RYHU ĹľQH IRRG VKRSV DQG VSHFLDOLVW VXSSOLHUV :DQW WR MRLQ WKHP" ZZZ JII FR XN

View from HQ Even food from little local people should be exported as â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Britishâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; first

THE THOUGHT of hopping on a train to Preston after the maelstrom of food and emotion that was Olympia and our Golden Fork dinner caused me to let out a rather jaded sigh. But on that train we got â&#x20AC;&#x201C; heading to Clitheroe for a Taste Lancashire producer event, focused on exports. I half expected a handful of local worthies banging potted shrimps and Chorley cakes together in a circle of selfpromotion. But no. There were 150 producers and other serious food people in the room. As an event organiser, I know thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an achievement in itself. Jay Rayner gave the rallying call at the top of the day and was,

unsurprisingly, blunt about the chances for Lancashire in the international food race. The man from Visit Britain, Richard Nicholls, showed why he is head of research with the insightful comment that most global buyers donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know where Lancashire is. Is it even in the UK? The room went quiet. The theme developed that even food from little local people should be exported as â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Britishâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; first. Only then could work be done on regional provenance, associating world-class food with a strong back-story â&#x20AC;&#x201C; like James Peatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Southport Potted Shrimps â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with its place of origin. That leap up north proved

to be more than worthwhile. The do-good event was held at Holmes Mill, a former textile mill that incorporates Bowland Food Hall â&#x20AC;&#x201C; an impressive retail space with scale. Having just left the Speciality & Fine Food Fair, concerned as to where all the high street deli buyers were, it got me wondering yet again about the future of smaller shops. The delicatessen needs our support too. I was glad we hopped on that train and came back not exhaling a sigh but with an audible cry that Britain does have a food culture that is exportable. But we must reinvigorate the shop that started this fine food revolution: the deli.

By John Managing Director Mike Farrand Whitworth GENERAL ENQUIRIES

WHOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S WHO AT GUILD HQ

Guild of Fine Food Guild House, 23b Kingsmead Business Park, Shaftesbury Road, Gillingham, Dorset SP8 5FB UK

Managing director: John Farrand Marketing director: Tortie Farrand Commercial director: Christabel Cairns Sales director: Sally Coley

Tel: +44 (0) 1747 825200 Fax: +44 (0) 1747 824065 info@gff.co.uk www.gff.co.uk

Sales manager: Ruth Debnam Sales executives: Becky Stacey Maria Burnett Operations manager: Karen Price

Operations assistant: Claire Powell Training co-ordinator: Jilly Sitch Circulation manager: Nick Crosley Financial controller: Stephen Guppy

Accounts manager: Denise Ballance Accounts assistant: Julie Coates Chairman: Bob Farrand Director: Linda Farrand

Vol.18 Issue 9 | October-November 2017

5 Time Golden Fork Winner Sweet Cured Bacon Rack 2016

Glenarm Shorthorn 4 Rib Roast

2014

Moyallon 3 Sweet Bacon Ribs Salt Aged Rack of Glenarm Shorthorn

2012

Moyallon Guanciale

In the end it all comes down to taste!

October-November 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 9