Fine Food Digest September 2012 by Guild of Fine Food

DELI OF THE MONTH 80 We talk to Steve Turvill of Cambridge’s Limoncello

MAT FOLLAS 49

‘People want less packaged goods – delis need to think about introducing fresh ingredients’

JOE SCHNEIDER OF STICHELTON 27 ‘I could make Stilton with bananas, but a raw milk version isn’t allowed’

September 2012 · Vol 13 Issue 8

BIGG ES ISSU T E EVER !

bruce almighty

YOUR 25-PAGE GUIDE TO OLYMPIA STARTS ON PAGE 47

CHEF’S SELECTION 79 Jason King of Hampshire’s Wellington Arms chooses sprouting seeds, Murray River salt and Uig Lodge salmon

How Langlands is bringing some ‘raw commerciality’ to Harrods’ food halls

TOP 50 FOODS 15 Spreading the benefits for Great Taste’s top winners

NEWS HARRODS CHEESEWIRE CHRISTMAS CHEESES SAVOURY SNACKS SPECIALITY PIES SHELF TALK DELI OF THE MONTH

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August 2012 路 Vol.13 Issue 8

What’s new this month:

Opinion

chains are bullying dairy farmers into selling their milk at less than the cost of production. Industry body Dairy UK isn’t helping much either. It claims any BOB FARRAND agreement guaranteeing that milk prices exceed the cost of production would jeopardise our competitiveness in Europe. During my first year at Grammar Economists believe it would School, boys in the year above open the floodgates for cheaper bullied me. In the second year, imports. Ah yes, the free market I inflicted similar pain on the economy. year below. The unpleasantness The popular press assures us continued until the sixth form, consumers are happy paying a little where we bullied the entire school. more for milk if A classical it helps sustain education that Several supermarkets, British farmers. prepared me well Retail analysts for the slings and dairy processors and coffee shop chains are spin a different arrows of a free yarn, claiming market economy bullying dairy farmers consumers often where the strong into selling their milk give answers they crush the weak. at less than the cost think researchers But it offered of production want to hear precious little rather than what on economics. they actually do. Mostly, we shop to That was learnt in an even harsher a budget, not for Britain. environment – 30 years running a Supermarket buyers have small business. matured into the sixth-form of I quickly discovered if I sold retail: they bully everyone by taking something for less than it cost to the fattest margin. Dairy processors produce, my mortgage didn’t get who supply supermarkets need paid. I also learnt that if I didn’t add to make a margin too, so they a decent margin to that cost, staff bully the primary producers – dairy wages, pensions, maternity and farmers. paternity leave, national insurance, This summer, outrageous health & safety, food hygiene, fortune has delivered the worst accountants, employment tribunals, weather for decades. Rain-sodden local authorities and the Inland harvests will inevitably drive up the Revenue didn’t get paid either. price of fresh vegetables and cattle No surprise then that Harrods’ feed and even though I never did food hall boss claims on p12 that become an economist, I confidently being a foodie at the expense of predict milk will cost even more to the bottom line is not an option. produce next year. And this comes from a retailer It’s time to stop the bullying. We who enjoys the sort of gilt-edged left school a long time ago. customers the rest of us would sell our grannies for. Bob Farrand is publisher of Fine Food Currently, several supermarkets, Digest and national director of the dairy processors and coffee shop Guild of Fine Food

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EDITORIAL editorial@finefoodworld.co.uk Editor: Mick Whitworth Assistant editor: Michael Lane News editor: Patrick McGuigan Art director: Mark Windsor Editorial production: Richard Charnley Contributors: Lynda Searby, Clare Hargreaves, Isabelle Plasschaert

ADVERTISING advertise@finefoodworld.co.uk Sales manager: Sally Coley Advertisement sales: Becky Stacey, Gavin Weeks Published by Great Taste Publications Ltd and the Guild of Fine Food Ltd Chairman/FFD publisher: Bob Farrand Managing director/associate publisher: John Farrand Director/membership secretary: Linda Farrand Marketing & circulation manager: Tortie Farrand Administrators: Charlie Westcar, Julie Coates Accounts: Stephen Guppy, Denise Ballance

GENERAL ENQUIRIES Tel: 01963 824464 Fax: 01963 824651 info@finefoodworld.co.uk www.finefoodworld.co.uk Guild of Fine Food, Guild House, Station Road, Wincanton, Somerset BA9 9FE UK Fine Food Digest is published 11 times a year and is available on subscription for £43pa inclusive of post and packing. Printed by: Advent Colour, Hants, UK © Great Taste Publications Ltd and The Guild of Fine Food Ltd 2012. Reproduction of whole or part of this magazine without the publisher’s prior permission is prohibited. The opinions expressed in articles and advertisements are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher. The publisher cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or illustrations.

For regular news updates from the industry's favourite magazine visit:

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Editor’s choice

Selected by Mick Whitworth

Quinola quinoa www.altiplans.com

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Food writers, especially those with ‘health’ in their job title, have been gushing about the South American supergrain quinoa for several years. The trouble is, anything touted heavily for its “eight essential amino acids” etc can easily wind up languishing alongside the rest of the obscure grains and pulses in a supermarket health section, rather then lending itself to tastings and cross-sales in a fine food store. What Paris-based Altiplans has done is create a brand that is not only more easily pronounced (quinoa is ‘kee-nwah’, if you don’t know) but also has a feelgood backstory thanks to its Fairtrade production in the high Andes. And it’s not just in the usual utilitarian cellophane-bag, either, which surely makes it more deli-friendly.

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www.ffdonline.co.uk Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

fine food news Wayward weather has left shoppers favouring winter warmers over BBQs and salads

No medals for food sales after summer wash-out... One of the wettest summers on record has wreaked havoc on deli and farm shop sales, with shoppers ditching barbecue sauces and soft drinks in favour of curry kits and bread-making flour. According to speciality food wholesalers, sales of traditional summer products have suffered from plummeting temperatures and heavy rainfall. April, June and July were among the wettest ever recorded, with twice the normal amount of rainfall in July in many areas. Scottish wholesaler The Cress Company said it had seen an increase in orders for products that would normally sell well in the autumn and winter, such as chocolates, biscuits and tea, while demand for barbecue sauces and soft drinks were down. “The weather has definitely made life difficult for retailers. It’s been a major problem,” said MD Joe Wall. “It will be intriguing to see how people’s cashflow holds up after the wash-out that was the summer. “I suspect there are quite a lot of retailers out there with summer stock still on their hands.” Bespoke Foods CEO Piers Adamson agreed it had been a “tough summer” for barbecue sauces, while its curry kits had done remarkably well. “They are something we would expect to sell in the winter.

Steve Mann/Dreamstime.com

By PATRICK McGUIGAN

The Olympics were great for the nation, but not for all retailers

It just shows how the brighter retailers have tweaked their ranges to suit the weather,” he said. It was a similar story at Cotswold

…but Christmas orders are up By PATRICK McGUIGAN

The topsy turvy summer may have proved challenging, but there are signs the sector is gearing up for a bumper Christmas. Several wholesalers have told FFD that customers are ordering earlier and in greater Emma Macdonald amounts for this Christmas compared to last. “We’ve had good forward orders for Christmas,” said Piers Adamson at Bespoke. “I think people last year felt they undercooked Christmas a little bit because they were too cautious and so want to Paul Hargreaves

September 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 8

make the most of it this year.” Emma Macdonald, MD of The Bay Tree Food Co, said the difficult summer was also playing a part. “We’ve had a poor summer, so retailers are feeling they must get their Christmas orders right,” she said. Cotswold Fayre said its Christmas orders were “buoyant”. “We have more orders in earlier. I think it is a better reflection of what’s really happening out there,” said MD Paul Hargreaves.

Fayre, which has seen a boost for sales of bread-making flour, biscuits and cakes, while soft drinks had suffered. “Garden centres with food

operations have been badly hit,” said MD Paul Hargreaves. “There hasn’t been the flow of footfall for things like bedding plants, which has a knock-on effect in the food areas. “Interestingly, delis seem to be doing better than farm shops. It might be because farm shops often have outdoor attractions, but it could equally be that there are more of them now, so there is more competition.” The Olympics seems to have had little effect on sales outside of London, according to most wholesalers, but trade was badly disrupted in the capital itself. Hargreaves said his central London van made fewer drops during the Games, while Bespoke was forced to switch to more expensive night deliveries. Franceso Camisa of distributor Fratelli Camisa said some London retailers had reported a fall in sales of 25-35% in August because of the Olympics. “That might be enough to push people over the edge,” he said. “It’s decimated parts of the West End and central London. “People have left town because the government were telling them it was going to be travel chaos, while those going to watch the Games have been funnelled from the stations to the stadiums and not given a chance to shop or stop for a bite to eat.”

Margins clobbered by poor crops Heavy summer rains have hit British fruit and vegetable crops, leaving farm shops struggling to grow enough to sell and being forced to pay extra as shortages push up prices. Malcolm Miller, owner of the newly extended Millers Farm Shop in Kilmington, east Devon, which grows potatoes, salad leaves, carrots and turnips, said this year’s harvest could be down by as much as 50%. “In 50 years of farming I’ve never known a summer like it,” he told FFD. “In the spring it was too hot to get the seeds to germinate and then during the summer the ground has been waterlogged so nothing is growing. We’ve been able to buy from other farms, but it means we have to take a hit on our margins.” Devon-based box scheme

the Nearly Naked Veg Company has been forced to suspend sales “indefinitely” after it saw around 70% of the crops fail on its 18-acre farm, while Chris Reeks, owner of La Hogue Farm Shop in Cambridgeshire, said his potato crop could be down 10%, and as much as 50% in areas with heavy soil.

Devon’s Malcolm Miller: Harvest could be down by 50%

IN BRIEF l Jon Gleeson, who owned the Cotswold Cheese Company for five years, has launched a new deli in Lyme Regis. Ammonite Fine Foods specialises in West Country produce and was opened within a day of Gleeson signing the lease. l Kilkenny-based cheesemaker Knockdrinna, whose Kilree goats’ cheese was named supreme champion in last year’s British Cheese Awards, is now supplying retailers in the UK after increasing production. The washed rind cheese is available through Paxton & Whitfield and Fine Cheese Co.

Delis account for 20% of sales across the Carluccio’s chain, according to CEO Simon Kossoff

Carluccio’s steps up in-store deli roll-out By PATRICK McGUIGAN

Carluccio’s is moving further into food retail with a range of branded products in Sainsbury’s and a commitment to opening more delis as it targets 100 outlets in the UK by 2015. The move is likely to put pressure on independent fine food retailers, who are already facing increased competition from Jamie Oliver’s Jamie’s Italian brand. The celebrity chef recently opened his first deli in Bath and revealed plans to roll out further retail outlets. Speaking at a recent Arena networking event in London, Carluccio’s CEO Simon Kossoff said retail sales from the company’s delis accounted for around 20% of sales across the 63-strong chain of deli-restaurants, rising to 50% at Christmas. The company has also recently launched a new range of ready-meals and breads under a new Carluccio’s At Home brand. “Our retail products and delicatessens are great for our

business. We’ve just launched our products into 114 Sainsbury’s stores after three years of development and we’re pleased with that,” he said. “We are always looking for new channels to keep our business up-to-date, whether that’s launching into retail or developing our glutenfree offering. That’s what will keep us going.” Allegra Strategies’ foodservice analyst Simon Stenning said that Carluccio’s was able to make the retail side of the business work because of the company’s links to Italian chef Antonio Carluccio, who originally founded the chain. “Provenance is one of the most important consumer trends at the moment and Antonio Carluccio brings that to the deli side of the business. People respect him and he gives the business authenticity,” he said. “The retail range at Carluccio’s is generally long shelf-life products, which are easier to roll out to more stores.” www.carluccios.com

Supermarket producer behind retail brand l Dubai-based investment group Landmark acquired Carluccio’s in 2010 and plans to open around 10 restaurants with delis a year in the UK to reach a total of 100 outlets by 2015. l The At Home range is made by convenience food group Bakkavor and includes lasagne, chicken & spinach risotto and four pastas and sauces, plus two breads. Prices range from £1.50 to £6. l In the year to September 25 2011, Carluccio’s saw turnover increase 14% year on year to £84.7m, helped by the opening of six new stores. Profit before tax stood at £5.87m.

Pub specialist is Venters’ replacement at Selfridges The operations director of pub group Mitchells & Butlers, Brian Hannon, is the surprise replacement for Ewan Venters as director of Selfridges’ food hall and restaurants. Hannon, who has no previous food hall experience, worked for the pub group for 19 years, setting up and rolling out brands such as Ember

Inns, O’Neill’s and Nicholson’s. He will join Selfridges in October, taking over from Venters, who left to join Fortnum & Mason last month. “It’s a strange decision on paper,” said one industry insider who has worked closely with most of London’s food halls. “[Hannon] obviously has lots of operational experience and the

pub trade is very good at maximising customer volumes and sales per square foot, so perhaps he has been brought in to oversee some major changes.” He added: “It’s long been rumoured that the food hall could be moved to the basement, where there is more space for restaurants.”

l English sparkling wine maker Ridgeview is the first winery to be approved by SALSA, the certification scheme for smaller food and drink businesses. The Sussex-based producer sought accreditation after winning the contract to make Waitrose’s Leckford English sparkling wine, using grapes grown on the John Lewis Partnership’s own farm. l A new weekly market at Central Saint Giles near Tottenham Court Road claims to be London’s first dedicated entirely to British produce. Made in Britain, which runs every Friday and Saturday until the end of September, includes stallholders such as Flour Station, La Cave à Fromage, Outsider Tart and Tea Nation. l The second round of Mary Portas’s Portas Pilot schemes has been announced, with high streets in London, Liverpool and Brighton among those to benefit from the new round of funding. The list of 15 towns also includes Lowestoft, Morecambe, Berwick and Tiverton. l Cornwall-based preserve maker Crellow has been sold by its founders, Michael and Deborah Richards, to fellow Cornish business Sisley’s. The brand and its recipes will remain intact.

l A new ‘artisan’ coffee shop chain, backed by Tesco, has opened its first outlet in Amersham, Buckinghamshire. The supermarket giant has a minority stake in Harris and Hoole, which has been set up by the founders of upmarket London chain Taylor Street.

l Sussex soft drinker producer Gran Stead’s won a gold award for its dark & mellow ginger wine at the British Bottling Institute’s annual awards. For regular news updates from FFD visit:

www.ffdonline.co.uk Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

fine food news Suffolk Food Hall opens small producer ‘hub’ Alliance revamps game campaign

By PATRICK McGUIGAN

The Suffolk Food Hall says that its new £2.5m restaurant and hub for artisan food and drink producers will help it stay ahead of the supermarkets as they look to muscle in on locally sourced food. The newly opened Cookhouse, which is housed in a converted barn close to the main food hall, features a 130-seater restaurant, cookery school, lecture theatre and eight units for small producers. It was part-funded by an East of England Development Agency grant. The brainchild of cousins Oliver and Robert Paul, who set up the Suffolk Food Hall in 2007, the new facility is designed to give the business a point of difference with customers able to see the food producers in action through glass viewing windows. “It’s the final link in the story,”

The converted barn includes a restaurant and cookery school

said Robert Paul. “We’ve got the Red Poll cattle grazing in the field and the end product in the food hall and restaurant, but we needed to explain the production process. “The Cookhouse is something the supermarkets could never do. They could never have the full story of how food is produced in their stores like this.” Upmarket catering company The Main Ingredient has taken one of the units, while cake-maker Suzanne Archer and patissier The Little Pantry are due to take two more. There is also space for a microbrewery and a smokehouse, which the company hopes to fill in the coming months. Paul said that if producers didn’t come forward to lease to space, the food hall may set up its own food production operations.

pump, which runs on the heat from the compressors. We then realised the open dairy cabinets were using more power than the butchery – so they were replaced with closed Heather Anderson Whitmuir - The Organic Place, cabinets. Keeping control of your energy West Linton, Scotland costs is absolutely vital, but it's hard to get independent advice in the beginning. We also weren't helped the electricity costs of running a We opened a new £800,000 organic by the fact that kitchen when the farm shop and restaurant in 2009, Scottish Power chefs leave the rings which was five times the size of the As the owner you misread the meter on all the time, so small shop that we were running really have to know and then a year we had to change previously. the electric cookers how every bit of the later told us we had We spent a lot on the building, underpaid the bill by to induction hobs which is very high-spec and business works – two years after we environmentally sound, with sheep’s you can't leave it to £18,000! The other big opened at a cost of wool insulation and a ground someone else. lesson we've learned £8,500. source heat pump. It was worth is that there are We also every single penny. When it's minus very different working cultures in underestimated the amount of hot 20°C outside, it will be 16°C in the retailing and catering. Catering water we would use in the butchery building without heating. was completely new to us and we and kitchen. The first systems we put We got a lot of things right, but entrusted the restaurant to the in failed to cope. we could have done things better. people we had appointed because We installed an air-source heat We had significantly underestimated

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September 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 8

www.gametoeat.co.uk

www.suffolkfoodhall.co.uk

If I'd known then what I know now...

The Countryside Alliance’s Game-toEat campaign has been relaunched with new celebrity chef recipes, free point-of-sale material and help with publicising events. The annual promotion, which aims to boost sales of wild game, has developed a compilation set of Game-to-Eat recipe booklets with contributions from Phil Vickery, Mark Hix and Valentine Warner. These are available free to fine food retailers, along with foodie posters and recipe leaflet dispensers. “Independent retailers have the flexibility to promote game, giving it the personal touch,” said campaign organiser Alexia Robinson. “There is an opportunity to promote suppliers and local estates, flagging up the provenance through sampling events.”

we thought they knew what they were doing. But as the owner you really have to know how every bit of the business works – you can't leave it to someone else. We ended up with a very hierarchical culture in the kitchen, but we wanted to run the business in a collaborative way. We're a farm shop kitchen, not the Hilton. It's taken us two years to get everybody working together with the same collaborative culture. Now the people working in the shop can easily jump in and serve in the restaurant, and some help in the butchery. They enjoy their jobs more and, in terms of managing the rota, it's great. We can move people around as and when we need them. They're also much more knowledgeable, which really helps with cross-selling. Interview by PATRICK McGUIGAN

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AOC, the sign of special products... A traditional cheese

The cheese of western Switzerland, with a delicate, distinguished flavour. Made since at least 1115 AD in and around the small town of Gruyères, today it is still produced by village cheese dairies in western Switzerland according to the traditional recipe. Le Gruyère AOC owes its characteristic delicacy and flavour to the top quality raw milk produced by cows fed on grass in the summer and hay in winter, coupled with the skill of the mastercheesemakers. No less than 400 litres of fresh milk are needed to produce a single wheel weighing around 35kg. During the slow maturation process, which takes several months in special cheese cellars, the wheels are turned regularly and rubbed down with saltywater. The maturing process lasts between five and 18 months.

Each cheese is systematically identified by the number of the mould and code of the cheese dairy. The day and month of production are also noted on the wheel. These black markings are made with casein, the cheese protein. No artificial additives are involved here either.

Le Gruyère AOC takes pride of place on any cheese platter. It makes for a delicious desert and can be used in tasty warm dishes. What’s more, no real fondue would be complete without genuine Gruyère AOC.

From this time on, the name ‘Gruyère AOC’ and the code of the production facility appears on the heel of each wheel of Gruyère AOC as an effective way of preventing fakes and guaranteeing authenticity. This technique employs branding irons, which give an indentation in the wheel. It is this marking that makes it possible to identify and trace each individual cheese.

The humidity and rind washing process develops the characteristic appearance of the cheese and assists in bringing the cheese into full maturity. This is what gives Le Gruyère AOC its famous, distinct flavour. It’s no great surprise that this authentic gift of nature is appreciated by cheeselovers throughout the world.

www.gruyere.com ruyere.com Cheeses from Switzerland. Switzerland. Naturally. 40 September 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 8

www.switzerland-cheese.com

fine food news new openings

Opening or expanding a shop? Email details to editorial@finefoodworld.co.uk

Derbyshire shop aims for ’destination’ status

what’s in store l The farm shop is managed by Mike McVeigh, with South African master butcher Barry Anderssen running the large butchery counter. He makes 12 types of sausages including Great Taste Award winning Boerewors.

l Products include Cottage Delight preserves, Bertelin Derby cheese, Olives Et Al olives, Thornbridge beer and Thaymars ice cream, as well as Longhorn beef from the farm.

l The project was part funded with a £170,000 grant from the Bolsover North East Derbyshire LEADER initiative, which receives funding from the Rural Development Programme for England.

l The farm store sells feed for horses, sheep, pigs, cows and poultry, as well as fencing, tools and products for farmers and smallholders. By PATRICK McGUIGAN

Farm shops must go beyond just selling their own produce to become full-blown visitor destinations, if they want to flourish in today’s highly competitive market. That’s the view of Darren Atkinson, who has just invested over £500,000 in the new Marsh Green Farm Shop, near Chesterfield in Derbyshire. “A lot of farm shops have evolved organically, starting with a bag of potatoes, then adding some eggs, and so on, but they haven’t

Whole Foods Market Kensington, London

The retailer’s UK flagship has revamped its first floor restaurants with several new quick-service counters.

really become destinations,” said Atkinson, who previously worked in construction but comes from a farming background. “Going to Tesco at the weekend to do your shopping is a tortuous experience, so there’s a big opportunity for farm shops, but you need to have as many strings to your bow as possible.” Marsh Green Farm Shop is part of a 150 acre farm and comprises a deli, butchery, café and feed & farm equipment store. During the shop’s development,

Atkinson was advised by Georgie Mason, owner of the renowned Gonalston Farm Shop. “We’re right on the A632 between Chesterfield and Matlock with 200 cars passing per hour, so we’re trying to give people as many reasons to visit as possible, whether that’s dad buying a few bits at the farm store, mum coming in for a coffee or the grandparents bring their grandchildren to see the animals,” said Atkinson. “We’re not trying to compete with the supermarkets on price,

street food restaurant called Wok Street sells fresh noodles, rice and curry dishes to take away, and there is also a salad counter called Bowls of Goodness, a burrito bar called Cantina Mexicana and Mama’s Pizzeria, which cooks to order.

charcuterie and cheese, focaccia sandwiches and ice cream sundaes. The 120 sq m food hall concession was set up last year by Italian chef Andreas Fehrle, who operates the store’s Orchid Cafe. It specialises in top-of-the-range Italian and Scottish food and drink. McEwens also has four stores outside Perth in Inverness, Oban, Ballater and Aberdeen.

www.wholefoodsmarket.co.uk

McEwens

Perth, Perthshire The Perth department store has opened an Italian coffee bar in its food hall. The Vespa Lounge serves Illy coffee and platters of Italian

American barbecue outlet The Big Smoke serves ribs, pulled pork and rotisserie chicken, made with the restaurant’s own smoker, to be eaten in or taken away. A new Asian

www.mcewensfoodhall.com

Depden Farm Shop

Nr Bury St. Edmunds, Suffolk This recently opened business is offering courses for people who want to learn about running a smallholding. Depden Farm Shop, Café and Smallholder Training Centre has been set up by Tim Freathy and his partner Mark Leadbeater, who up until last year

they have much more buying power than us, but we can offer handmade cheeses and rare-breed meats, plus a nice day out.” The shop is targeting customers within an hour’s drive, including parts of Sheffield and Derby, through advertising and leaflet drops. “Footfall has already been much higher than we expected, so we’re going to press ahead with a lot more marketing,” he said. “Once people know we are here and what we do, they want to visit.” www.marshgreenfarmshop.co.uk

both had full time jobs and ran the six-acre Rookery Farm as a hobby. Located on the A143 between Haverhill and Bury St Edmunds, the farm shop stocks locally sourced products and food made on-site in the café. The smallholder courses include Pig Keeping for Sausage Lovers and Back Yard Chicken Keeping. “Our first smallholding and sustainable living skills courses were really popular, drawing people from London as well as East Anglia,” said Feathy. www.depden.com

Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

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fine food news A GREAT BIG ONION: Over 50 East Anglian food and drink producers attended Elveden Farm Shop’s Big Onion Festival last month, which also featured chef demos, live music and tractor rides around the farm. The farm shop is part of Elveden Estate, which produces around 20,000 tonnes of onions and has held a festival celebrating its crop for two years running. Two thousand visitors attended the festival at the shop’s walled gardens, browsing the stalls from producers including Bhaji Man, The Chilli Company and Hill Farm Oils, and watching cookery demonstrations from chefs including Richard Bainbridge, who has appeared on The Great British Menu. .

Co-operation pays, says Big G farm shop group By PATRICK McGUIGAN

Farm shops in Gloucestershire are working together to raise their profile and improve buying power as part of a collective that could be replicated elsewhere in the country. The Big G group comprises eight farm shops across the county and has gone from strength to strength since it was launched, said member Paul Keene, owner of Primrose Vale Farm Shop. This month the group is sponsoring the farm shop category at the local Taste of Gloucestershire Food and Farming Awards, one of several new joint initiatives. “By joining together we have a lot more clout with the local press and suppliers,” Keene said.

“The group has a regular promotions page in the local paper where each of the members runs discounts and offers. It’s been really good at getting us known across the county. We also join together to improve our buying power when it comes to things like plants and fertilisers.” Keene said that similar groups could be set up in other regions. “There’s definitely scope for farm shops to work together more. They are not normally direct competitiors because they are so spread out and have different focuses. “If we can take even half a per cent away from the supermarkets, then it’s a job well done.” www.gloucestershirefarmshops.com

Price competition blamed as Pendrill Foods collapses By PATRICK McGUIGAN

Cheshire-based cheese wholesaler Pendrill Foods has gone into liquidation after more than 25 years in business, blaming competitors for undercutting it on price. The company was set up in 1985 by Peter Papprill, who was widely known as the Cheese Detective, after appearing with celebrity chef Gary Rhodes on TV. It specialised in sourcing cheese from small- to medium-sized producers in Cheshire, Cumbria and Lancashire. A statement from recovery and insolvency specialists Harrisons, which oversaw the liquidation, said: “Unfortunately competitive forces and the economic situation have had a significant effect on the company's turnover, with Follow us on

@ffdonline

competitors undercutting the company’s prices and offering customers alternative cheaper products. “The directors were reluctant to compromise the company's ethos of selling quality products to the market from small producers at a price that did not compromise the margins of the supplier and introduced considerable funds into the company to maintain this position whilst the economic situation turned round. “This was not sustainable and there was little alternative but to wind the company up.” Harrisons said it had received enquiries about buying Pendrill's name and customer lists but said creditors were unlikely to benefit from any sale.

IN BRIEF l Hawarden Estate Farm Shop in Flintshire has won the ‘best shopping experience’ category in the inaugural People’s Choice Food Awards, part of the 2012 Wales True Taste Food & Drink Awards. Silver went to Llwynhelyg Farm Shop in Ceredigion while the Welsh Venison Centre in Powys took bronze.

l The Eden Project in Cornwall has launched its own range of ice creams in conjunction with producer Roskilly’s. The nine flavours are all derived from plants that can be found in the project’s biomes and flavoured with panela, an unrefined Colombian whole cane sugar. l Stokes has launched limited edition jars of its Real Mayonnaise, sporting bright pink labels and lids, to raise money for Breast Cancer Care. The Suffolk producer is donating 10p to the charity for every jar sold between August and the end of October this year. l Arran Brewery faced a rush to fulfil orders last month after 700 cases of its best-selling Arran Blonde beer were stolen. A lorry carrying beer to a regional distribution centre was taken and later discovered in a Staffordshire motorway service area without its trailer. The goods had not been recovered as FFD went to press. l This year’s Tabasco British Oyster

Paul Keene: ‘Farm shops are not normally direct competitors’

World Cheese Awards open for entries The 2012 World Cheese Awards, organised by the Guild of Fine Food, will open for entry on September 6. Judging will again take place again at the BBC Good Food Show at Birmingham’s NEC on November 28. For the first time, there will also be a World Cheese Awards deli where consumers can sample and buy award-winning cheeses. The Guild will also be running a tasting theatre with Cellar Vie wines, offering cheese and wine matching, and the theatre will also host the climax of the Le Gruyère Cheese Counter of the Year competition. A shortlist of five cheesemongers will display their retail prowess and cheese know-how in front of a panel of judges and a consumer audience. www.finefoodworld.co.uk/wca

Opening Championship is being held on September 3 at Bentley’s Oyster Bar bear Piccadilly Circus in central London. The event coincides with the start of the native oyster season.

l The Innovation Zone at the lunch! food show (September 20-21 at London’s Business Design Centre) has doubled in size this year and will feature 48 small and start-up producers.

l Selfridges is launching a limited edition rhubarb liqueur and rhubarb vodka from Herefordshire-based spirit producer Chase.

l An online campaign has been set up to help support ParmigianoReggiano producers affected by two earthquakes that hit the EmiliaRomagna region of Italy in May. A new website will allow people to buy pieces of the 600,000-plus cheeses that are being rescued from damaged warehouses. www.saveacheese.com

For regular news updates from FFD visit:

www.ffdonline.co.uk Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

fine food news

All images: Isabelle Plasschaert

Bruce Langlands: ‘If you come into Harrods food halls you have got to be passionate. You don’t just want an operator.’

Interview

Two years into the job, Harrods’ head of food Bruce Langlands tells MICK WHITWORTH the famous food halls are ‘on the cusp of something exciting’. Now start guessing…

Harrods ups its game B

ig changes are afoot in the Harrods food halls. But the man in charge, Bruce Langlands, is keeping his cards frustratingly close to his chest. Talking to FFD in a smart but functional office somewhere above the fifth floor of Britain’s largest and most labyrinthine department store, he apologises profusely, but says: “If I told you what we’re planning, Fortnums would be doing it in three months time!” A former product development chief at Ireland’s Superquinn supermarket chain, Langlands took over as head of food at Harrods in July 2010, shortly after Mohamed Al-Fayed sold it to Qatar Holdings for around £1.5 billion. Now, Harrods food halls are “on the cusp of something very exciting”, he says. But with major developments still several months away, he’s not being over-generous with the facts. “Some changes are around the

September 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 8

environment,” he tells me, cagily. “We’ve not had massive investment in the food halls, and we want to move that on.” Others are around communicating Harrods’ points of difference more effectively. Langlands has set out to strengthen the store’s ‘best of the best’ positioning but says Harrods hasn’t been brilliant at conveying exactly why its food is special. “We’ve not shouted enough about how great our products are. For example, 30% of the products in the fresh food hall are made in-store by our own chefs, but we didn’t tell anybody that before.” In fresh foods, which includes charcuterie, cheese and restaurantquality ready-to-cook meals, you’ll already see many more information boards than before, bigging-up both products and producers, from San Daniele DOP hams to multi-award winning chocolatier William Curley. Other new features introduced by

Langlands include prepared-meals concessions from Michelin-starred Indian restaurant Tamarind and its ‘pan Asian’ sister Tamarai. These are to be found in the fresh food hall’s traiteur section alongside classic British ready-to-cook meals made by Harrods’ own in-house team. Launched in March, Tamarind and Tamarai were the first branded instore concessions allowed in this hall. Harrods will be striking up other partnerships over the coming year to add collections of dishes from named chefs to its traiteur counters. The first is from Rose Prince, to be followed by the Michelin-starred Galvin brothers, who will supply around a dozen dishes from their own kitchens, such as lobster cake and coq au vin. It marks a tightening up of Harrods’ approach to third-party brands generally, focusing very much on highend names that reinforce the store’s positioning. While Tamarind has come

in, along with Saudi Arabian luxury dates brand Bateel, Harrods has said goodbye to one of its unlikeliest partners: Krispy Kreme. The US doughnut giant made its UK debut in Harrods in 2003, but is now in every Tesco. “It was right at the time,” says Langlands, “but I personally believe it was here too long.” Where concessions have been allowed into the food hall, there is no overt branding – all signage is in Harrods’ own under-stated style. This is a stark contrast to Selfridges in particular, where new, colourful, often quirky branded concessions have been played up to create a buzz around the food offer. Doesn’t Harrods’ low-key approach sometimes work against it? Langlands argues the store’s own brand is so strong, it doesn’t need third parties to prop it up. “I look at some of our competitors, and some of them are very concession-heavy. “You bring someone in, not for razzamatazz, but for what they can

“an absolute need to get raw retail and commerciality back into the business” and he brought with him 20-odd years’ experience of thinking constantly about “margin aspirations and return per square foot”. One of his first tasks in summer 2010 was to deal with a hefty cut in floorspace, as an entire 10,000 sq ft food hall, containing the candy store and bakery, was handed over to luxury watches. (It still leaves him with 30,000 sq ft, mind you, out of nearly 900,000 sq ft

We’ve not shouted ❛enough about how

great our products are – 30% of what we sell in the fresh food hall is made in-house

❜

Much of what it makes is in the do for your business. I think Selfridges style of British seaside rock, with a is much more about ‘fashion food’. name or logo running right through That’s not saying they are not it – a bespoking service that’s surely a quality, but ultimately we are about natural fit with Harrods shoppers. provenance and what we think is the Langlands is clearly excited, not just best of the best. by the ‘theatre’ this creates but by the “But it’s a balance. I do see the way it connects consumers with the benefit of concessions in some producer. “People want to see things areas. We’ve done a lot of expansion made, they want to know where they with Caviar House, because they come from. At the moment, we hide complement our range. I needed part of that process away, instead of someone to do Middle Eastern dates, being loud and bold about it.” and who’s best at that? Bateel. There are a still a lot of lines to read “We know we’re not the best between, but whatever Langlands at Indian food, so we brought in is planning he’ll keep one eye firmly Tamarind. What you’ve got here is on the numbers. When he arrived exactly the same product you would at Harrods in 2010 he replaced get in their restaurant, and ours is the Matthias Kiehm, a hotels and only retail outlet you can find that restaurants specialist who was also in. So it becomes a destination for a vice-president people.” Retail is retail, whether of Al-Fayed’s Ritz None of which you’re at the luxury Hotel in Paris. tells you what Langlands was Langlands has got end or on a market stall brought in, he planned for next or in a supermarket in says, to “look at year. But a big clue between foods and bring might be found in some real disciplines in – making the one of Harrods’ latest additions: the footage work harder and making sure first UK outlet for sugar confectionery we have the right range”. brand Papabubble, which began life He’s the latest in a string of former in Barcelona in 2004 and now has supermarket executives to take stores worldwide. top posts in Britain’s biggest food Sited in Harrods’ third-floor Toy halls. New Fortnum & Mason chief Kingdom, Papabubble doesn’t just executive Ewan Venters, who moved sell candy, it makes it on the spot, across from Selfridges in July, was a crafting hand-made products both one-time Sainsbury’s high flyer. His for shoppers and corporate clients.

❛

❜

food & beverage chief at Fortnums, Simon Burdess, is ex Marks & Spencer, as is Selfridges’ head of food Nicola Waller. It’s a small world at this level of the industry, and both Waller and Burdess are ex-colleagues of Langlands, who enjoyed a 17-year career at Marks & Spencer before being poached by Superquinn. He joined M&S as a school leaver in 1988 as part of its young managers programme and moved steadily up the career ladder – assistant manager, store manager, country food manager for Ireland – before putting in five years in new product development at head office in London. Eyebrows have been raised at the apparent take-over of our most iconic food shops by supermarket suits, but Langlands says he can’t see the issue. “It’s really interesting that anyone would moan about supermarket people coming in. Retail is retail, whether you’re at the luxury end or on a market stall or in a supermarket in between. “The basics are the same: knowing your customers and what they need, ensuring your product range is right, retailing it right so it makes a profit, giving the best customer service. “Whether you’ve learned that through supermarkets or a luxury store doesn’t matter.” At Harrods, he says, there was

of total retail space at Harrods.) Langlands says he “turned a quite negative position into a positive” by thinking again about which products fit naturally together, and rationalising ranges. Bakery and patisserie, he decided, should all sit in the fresh food hall. “We decided to create the ‘ultimate bakery’,” he says. “We reduced the range down – going from four sourdough loaves to two, for example – and looked at improving products and making sure we only had the best.” The result, despite the overall loss of space, was double-digit growth in this section. He and his team are currently reviewing Harrods’ whole own-brand range, which represents around 65% of sales, and simplifying packaging so shoppers can clearly distinguish between the store’s core and ultrapremium ranges. “If people want the best tea they can buy Ambootia Snowmist at £5,000/kg, but they should also be able to tell what’s our core range and what’s top tier. When I arrived it was a bugger’s muddle. “When you go into Waitrose, you can look at something on the shelf and immediately say, ‘That’s Waitrose’s brand’. That’s what we want to do.” You might label this as supermarket thinking, but Langlands – who says he was converted into a foodie during his time in product development at M&S – insists you can care about the product and still take care of the business. “There are brands I couldn’t work for because I don’t believe in them. I’m not going to tell you who. But ‘every little helps’, and all that. “If you come into Harrods food halls you have got to be passionate. You don’t just want an operator – you want someone that can get under the skin of the business.” And being a foodie at the expense of the bottom line is not an option, he tells FFD. “There are no loss leaders at Harrods,” he says. “We’ve got to be profitable. We’ve got to grow sales.” www.harrods.com

Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

August 2012 路 Vol.13 Issue 8

great taste 2012

The hit list

With entries in the Great Taste awards scheme nearly topping 9,000 this year, more of the major winners are being promoted under a new, easy-to-grasp banner

ver 1,800 food and drink producers together entered 8,807 products in this year’s Great Taste awards scheme. That’s another huge year-onyear increase, and for Great Taste’s organiser, the Guild of Fine Food, it‘s an opportunity to raise the profile of more specialist producers than ever before. But as the numbers grow, so does the complexity of the story the Guild (which also publishes Fine Food Digest) has to get over to consumers through national and local media. That’s why it has this year packaged some of best of the best together to promote a new concept – the Top 50 Foods in Britain. The inaugural Top 50 Foods line-up includes an inspirational list of classic and less familiar products, from gooseberry & elderflower ice cream to bone marrow butter, duck gizzard confit, marinated springbok and potted wild boar. “The Top 50 is an idea consumers can easily grasp, but also one that local and national media can get hold of,” said Guild managing director John Farrand.

“It’s particularly suited to social media and online news, both of which love a list.” The main results from Great Taste 2012 – the recipients of onestar, two-star and top-ranking threestar gold awards – were announced last month after 45 days of judging by some 350 specialist retailers, chefs, food critics and other experts. The major trophies, including the 2012 Great Taste Supreme Champion, chosen from among the 123 three-star gold winners – will be unveiled at an awards ceremony at London’s Royal Garden Hotel on September 3. But to maximise media interest around Great Taste, the Guild selected the 50 highest-scoring foods and presented them to journalists immediately after the last day of judging on July 17. The result was a flurry of coverage in both conventional press but particularly in food blogs and other online news services around the British Isles, from Cardiff local news site The Penny Post to online lifestyle magazine Hot brands, Cool Places. Food blogger Nick Baines,

Lithuanian scalded rye bread

❛

The Guild selected the 50 highest-scoring foods immediately after the last day of judging on July 17

❜

At the Northern Ireland Department of Enterprise, Trade and Investment, enterprise minister Arlene Foster issued a statement congratulating the three NI companies – Kettyle Irish Foods, Hannan Meats and 2011 Supreme Champion McCartney’s of Moira –

Lime & chilli chutney Geeta’s Foods

Amber Foods Plus t/a Karaway

www.geetasfoods.com

An authentic Indian chutney made from Kagzi limes, green chillies and aromatic spices.

www.karawaybakery.com

This loaf is made using a scalded sourdough, matured for several days before baking.

London & South East

himself a Great Taste judge, included highlights from the Top Food on recipes and reviews site www.lovefood.com. But individual producers and regional food groups have also been promoting their local Top 50 successes.

on reaching the Top 50. The overall listings demonstrated “the strength and depth of the local food industry”, said Foster – a sentiment echoed by Guild chairman Bob Farrand. “When we looked at a crosssection of thee-star gold winners, we realised that, despite the heavy level of entries from mainstream producers and retailers nowadays, the highest percentage come from artisan producers in this country. It’s only right and proper that they should get the maximum exposure.” The Top 50 was also a chance to raise the profile of exceptional foods beyond the handful of major trophy winners, he said. “By the time you have whittled 8,800 foods down to 123 three-stars, or even 631 twostar winners, the differences are only matters of degree. We really felt more of these foods should get recognition.” You’ll find all of Britain’s Top 50 Foods over the following few pages. To find every product that achieved one-, two- or three-star accreditation in Great Taste 2012, visit the awards website: www.greattasteawards.co.uk

Duck gizzards confit 1 Chef 4U

www.1chef4u.com

This firm muscle, found only in birds, is seasoned and slow-cooked in fat until tender.

Barkham Blue

Two Hoots Cheese www.twohootscheese.co.uk

A soft blue veined cheese with a natural mould ripened rustic rind made with pasteurised cows’ milk.

English Wagyu sirloin steak C Lidgate

www.lidgates.com

English Wagyu beef, with vivid marbling and a velvety, buttery consistency.

Imperial China

Demarquette Fine Chocolates www.demarquette.com

A ganache chocolate made with single origin cacao from Vietnam and infused with Jasmine White Monkey Tea. Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

great taste 2012 Jack Ratt vintage dry cider

Lyme Bay Winery www.lymebaywinery. co.uk

A 7.4% vol cider, fermented from freshlypressed traditional cider apple varieties such as Dabinett, Kingston Black & Yarlington Mill.

M’Hencha

Strong horseradish & cream The Tracklement Company

www.tracklements.co.uk

A powerful, fresh grated English horseradish root mixed with cream.

Potted wild boar with sherry & thyme The Potted Game Company

Sophie’s Baked Delights

www.pottedgame.com

Made using a traditonal method of preserving – poaching the meat in stock then clarifying it in butter.

www.sophiesbakeddelights.co.uk

A North African Berber cake made from an almond sugar paste, flavoured with rosewater, orange and lemon zest, wrapped in brick pastry, coiled into a cake.

Tregothnan honey yoghurt ice Salcombe Dairy

www.salcombedairy. co.uk

Northern Ireland

South West

A rich frozen yoghurt with a hint of honey.

French-style saucisson

The Cotswold Curer

Passion fruit curd

The Bay Tree Food Company www.thebaytree.co.uk

A passion fruit curd made in small batches.

www.thecotswoldcurer.com

A fully cured artisan salami, handmade using a traditional French recipe and locally produced free range pork. All the spices used are freshly ground, and include cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg.

Gooseberry & elderflower ice cream Jolly Nice

www.westonbirticecream.co.uk

Gooseberries & elderflowers mixed with a rich custard base and infused with a subtle hint of orange and lemon.

Hand made sweet corned pork Dry aged marrow butter Kettyle Irish Foods

Hand made corned beef McCartney’s of Moira

www.kettyleirishfoods.com

www.mccartneysofmoira.com

A butter with bone marrow, blended with a mix of sea salt and cracked black pepper.

Last year’s Supreme Champion, made with dry-aged heels of silverside.

September 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 8

McCartney’s of Moira www.mccartneysofmoira.com

Shoulder pork is dry cured, slow cooked with pork trotters for 12 hours and then shredded. The fat is removed and the meat is then pressed with natural juices.

Moyallon guanciale Hannan Meats

www.hannanmeats.com

A Italian-style bacon made from local pigs’ jowls dry cured with herbs, garlic and red wine.

Katy Rodger’s Artisan Dairy range has been hand created to emphasise the natural quality of the milk. There are no artificial colours, flavours or preservatives in any of the chilled product range. Simple fresh fruit compotes are added to provide delicious flavour to the fruit yogurts. The packaging has been carefully designed to highlight the natural goodness of the product, no gimmicks, just clear, simple and elegant; it looks fantastic on the shelf.

• Natural Yogurt, • Fresh Fruit Yogurt • Crème Fraiche • Knockraich Crowdie • Dairy Ice Cream • Frozen Yogurt

Scottish Artisan Dairy Produce Our pastures, our herd, our milk, our dairy, naturally...

oo rs D x Mo isc & or ov Br O er am rg y le ani App y c Ap Ju le pl ice Jui e ce Ju ic e

www.knockraich.com

the finest organic apple & pear juices

conventional, but not ordinary

exceptional juice from traditional varieties Nichol Farm, Deerton Street, Teynham, Kent ME9 9LJ

Tel: 01795 521341

www.moororganicjuice.co.uk

Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

Introducing our new Roast & Ground Coffee Selections. Each pack makes one perfect 8 cup cafetière, so now it’s even easier to try more varieties and see why we’re the nation’s favourite.

Medium Roast Selection Lazy Sunday • Take It Easy Fairtrade Organic • Café Imperial

Rich Roast Selection Rich Italian • Hot Lava Java Café Brasilia • After Dark

For more information freephone 0800 515 988 or email sales.admin@bettysandtaylors.co.uk September 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 8 18

great taste 2012 Sourdough miches

More? The Artisan Bakery www.moreartisan.co.uk

A three-flour sourdough bread fermented for 24-36 hours before baking.

Raspberry vinegar

Womersley Fruit & Herb Vinegars www.womersleyfoods.co.uk

Four-bone rack of heather-fed lamb Albert Matthews Butchers www.albertmatthews.com

This lamb grazes on the Lancashire Fells and is aged for 14 days after slaughter.

This product is hand made in small batches by infusing vinegar with locally grown Yorkshire raspberries. Just sugar is added during the triple-filtering process to ensure clarity.

Smoked silver eel fillet Port of Lancaster Smokehouse

www.glassonsmokehouse.co.uk

Brined in pure sea salt and subtly kiln-roasted over oak.

Rack of wild Northumberland roe deer Ridley’s Fish & Game, Northumberland

www.ridleysfishandgame.co.uk

North

Caught locally then prepared and butchered by Ridley’s in Acomb, near Hexham, Northumberland.

Salted butter

Winter Tarn Cheese edenview@talktalk.net

A salted butter made with organic cream and salt.

Welsh organic shoulder of lamb

O-Garden

Otley Brewing Company

Rhug Estate

www.rhugorganic.com

www. otleybrewing. co.uk

Bred on the Rhug Estate situated in the Berwyn Mountains of North Wales.

Wales

Organic shoulder of pork

Slade Farm Organics

www.sladeorganics.co.uk

From organic pigs born, reared and fattened on the Glamorgan Heritage Coast.

Lamb carpacchio Trealy Farm Charcuterie

A clear wheat beer spiced with roasted orange peel, coriander and cloves.

www.trealyfarm.com

Made from rump of lamb, innovatively cured with rosemary to create a moist textured, ready-to-eat product. Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

great taste 2012 Coupage Natural extra virgin olive oil

Double fillet of smoked salmon

Cortijo De Suerte Alta

Stefan Palsson www. stefanpalssonab.se

www.suertealta.es

An organic, DOP oil from a traditional family-owned olive grove. Produced from three varieties of olive – Picudo, Hojiblanco and Picual.

Double fillet of smoked salmon produced in Sweden.

Thyme honey

Melissourgion,

Amacha tea

melissourgion@gmail.com

Momo Cha Fine Teas

A natural, unprocessed thyme honey from Greece.

Persian nougat with 90% pistachio

Hazelnut oil

The Exquisite Range

Azada Organic

www. exquisiterange. com

www.azadaorganic. com

Hazelnuts are roasted and then cold pressed using a 75-year-old method, to make this Spanish oil from Tarrgona in Cataluña.

A nougat from Iranian producers.

Belazu preserved lemons

The Fresh Olive Company www.fresholive. com

Imported

www.momochafineteas.com

Organically grown ‘Buddha tea’ comprising only rolled and dried leaves of Japanese Hortensia.

Pickled in salt and their own juices, these lemons are essential ingredients in a wide range of Moroccan recipes.

Liquorice & peppermint tea Teapigs

www.teapigs.co.uk

Caffeine-free tea made with pure liquorice root and peppermint. Sourced from Gansu in Northern China.

www.jamonesjuanpedrodomecq.com

Cured ham from naturally reared, acorn-fed pure breed Iberico pigs.

Smoked rack of bacon

Rhubarb & ginger jam

Oliver Carty

G’s Gourmet Jams (Abbey Farm Foods)

www.olivercarty.ie

Ireland

A reduced-salt smoked rack of bacon.

www. gsgourmetjams.ie

Yeats Country spreadable goats’ cheese

Green Pastures (Donegal)

www.greenpasturesdonegal.com

This all-natural spreadable cheese is made from fresh pasteurised goats’ milk, natural sea salt and cheese cultures and is suitable for vegetarians.

September 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 8

Jamon Iberico de Bellota

Jamones Juan Pedro Domecq

Rhubarb & ginger jam, handmade using rhubarb, sugar and ginger. Cooked in small batches using the traditional ‘open pan’ method and hand-stirred using a wooden spoon.

Jack Ratt Dry Vintage Cider Winner of 3 Gold stars and nominated as one of the Top 50 Foods in Britain today. Now through to the final judging for Regional and Supreme Champion.

Visit stand 755 at the Speciality Show to try other award winning mouthwatering range of drinks and beautiful gift boxes,meet our sales team and learn more about us.

Also

New Cider Gift Boxes, New Lymelights low alcohol wines, plus Christmas Wines and gifts. The Lyme Bay Winery, Shute, Axminster, Devon EX13 7PW Tel 01297 551 355 sales@lymebaywinery.co.uk www.lymebaywinery.co.uk

Riggs Autopack Ltd manufacture volumetric depositors and filling machines for artisan food producers.

blend drizzle

Designed for a single operator, our semi-automatic filling machines provide damage free and highly precise depositing of hot or cold products and accurately fill most types or size of container.

smoked

Improve your food production rates by purchasing a Riggs Autopack filling machine. Short or long term hire also available.

marinade enhance

Find out more at www.autopack.co.uk or call our Lancashire office on 01282 440040.

aroma infuse

Products manufactured using our equipment include • Jam, Honey and Preserves • Chutney • Mustard • Pickles • Relish

• Mayonnaise • Sauces • Dips • Dressings

t: 01282 440040 f: 01282 440041 e: info@autopack.co.uk www.autopack.co.uk

The smoked olive Smoked olive oil, Smoked olives, ... info@thesmokedolive.co.uk T. 07852 932066 Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

iscover the Origin is an EU campaign to raise awareness of five products with Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status: Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese, Parma Ham, Bourgogne Wine, Douro Wine and Port. The campaign aims to promote food and drink that has real provenance, and educate trade professionals about product origin, storage, correct use and other customer-relevant information. If you are going to Speciality & Fine Food Fair and want to find out more visit our stand 677. Alternatively, visit the website to learn more about Discover the Origin (www.DiscovertheOrigin.co.uk) and sign-up to the bi-monthly webzine, visit our facebook page Discover the Origin or chat to us on twitter @discoverorigin

Making Food Special At Bespoke Foods, we are passionate about distributing specialist food products with authenticity and provenance from around the world. Visit us on Stand 904 at the Speciality & Fine Food Fair to view a selection of our exciting new products, bestsellers, Christmas lines, Great Taste Award winners and more.

Phone: 020 7819 4300 Fax: 020 7819 4400 Email: sales@bespoke-foods.co.uk Web: www.bespoke-foods.co.uk 22

September 2012 路 Vol.13 Issue 8

great taste 2012 Concorde pear juice

Pershore College (Part of Warwickshire College)

Gloucester Old Spot smoked middle back bacon

www.warwickshire.ac.uk/ applejuice

Midlands & East Anglia

A juice made from Concorde pears, but with 10% Bramley apples added to complement and balance the flavour. All fruit is hand-picked, pressed and bottled in Worcestershire.

Ludlow Food Centre

www.ludlowfoodcentre. co.uk

Made with pork from Ludlow Food Centre’s own herd, cured and smoked on the premises.

Jaipur IPA

Thornbridge Brewery www. thornbridgebrewery. co.uk

A smooth 5.9% ABV bottled India Pale Ale.

Crème fraiche

Kezie Foods

www.keziefoods.co.uk

A marinated fillet of springbok, sourced from wild game reserves in South Africa.

Brock Hall Farm Dairy

www.marybelle.co.uk

www.brockhallfarm.com

A semi-soft, unpasteurised, rind-washed cheese using milk from the farm’s own herd of pedigree, Pure-Saanen goats.

Arbroath smokies

Original Smokies from Arbroath www.arbroathsmokies.net

Fresh haddock, cleaned, tied and salted, then smoked in the original way over a smouldering hardwood log fire contained within a whisky cask.

Jaffy’s Mallaig kippers

Hot smoked salmon

www.jaffys.co.uk

www.donaldsonsoforkney.co.uk

J. Lawrie & Sons

Scotland

Marybelle

Made with milk and cream from local farms in Suffolk.

Marinated springbok portioned fillet

Capra Nouveau cheese

Smoked in a traditional brick kiln over oak shavings from malt whisky casks to produce plump succulent kippers. The traditional cure and smoking methods have been handed down over four generations.

Donaldsons of Orkney Fresh Orkney salmon, hot smoked over hickory wood.

Knockraich Crowdie soft cheese Katy Rodger’s

www.knockraich.com

A traditional, British Friesian cows’ milk crowdie, with no artificial colours, flavours or preservatives, this soft white cheese can be eaten on its own or used as an ingredient. Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

The Truckle Cheese Co. is home to our evermore famous Vintage Mature Cheddar truckles, our blue cheese truckles, along with our range of other award-winning cheese truckles. Our ever popular 200g cheeses now available in 1kg logs: • Oak Smoked Cheddar (Great Taste Awards 2010 – Gold) • Vesuvius Vintage Cheddar with chilli (World Cheese Awards 2010 – Bronze) • Fig & Honey Wensleydale • Goats Cheese (World Cheese Awards 2010 – Silver). Not forgetting our twice gold award-winning Onion Marmalade and other chutney’s which all go great with most cheeses and various other foods. In 2011 we introduced our traditional Bretagne pâté terrine selection: Pork and Venison Terrine with Armagnac, Pork and Duck Terrine with Green Peppercorns, Country Terrine of Pork Liver and Herbs, great with any cheeseboard or ploughman’s.

WORLD CHEESE AWARDS CHAMPION 2010 Supreme Champion Bath & West 2010

LD_FFD_AD_AW.pdf

31/07/2012

To view our full range please see our brochure available on our website www.trucklecheese.co.uk or call 01223 234740 for more information

10:17

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new customers with

Premium food from the farm

100% natural goodness

Grown & produced in the UK

CMY

As seen In Countr y living

Call us on 0800 098 8057 for free delivery to your store! 24

September 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 8

cheesewire

news & views from the cheese counter

Graduate’s new start-up to make Alpine-style cheese By PATRICK McGUIGAN

A 21-year-old graduate of the School of Artisan Food is due to launch his own business producing an Alpinestyle hard cheese later this year. David Jowett joined the school’s year-long dairy diploma in 2010 and has now secured premises at the Alscot Estate, near Stratford-uponAvon, for the new venture called Jowett Cheese. A 1,400 sq ft barn is currently being converted into a dairy and the young cheese-maker is in talks with local milk producers ahead of a production start date of November. Linda Dutch, who previously made Berkswell cheese, is helping with the design and construction of the dairy as well as the development of the recipe. The new unpasteurised cows’ milk cheese will be called Jowett and will be a modern British take on

Jowett’s venture follows a diploma at the School of Artisan Food

traditional Alpine cheeses, such as Comté, Beaufort and Adondance, although in smaller 10-12kg wheels. It will be made in a traditional round copper vat and matured on wood for

at least four months. “I’d be looking for those sweet, fruity, caramel, hazelnut flavours found in Alpine cheeses, but would be reluctant to call it a ‘British Comté’,” said Jowett. “It gives me the opportunity to experiment with using a natural whey starter. I will be using calves’ rennet, not in the refined liquid form, but by rehydrating strips of dried calves’ ‘valles’ in whey, a practice which is very rarely seen today, but will give the cheese a deeper, more complex flavour.” Jowett, a former Paxton & Whitfield employee, said he had been inspired to start his own business after working at artisan cheese companies as part of his diploma, including Neal’s Yard, Marcel Petite Comté, Stichelton, Berkswell and Jasper Hill in Vermont. www.jowettcheese.co.uk

Ex-Goodwood maker Vowles begins organic operation in North Devon By PATRICK McGUIGAN

The former head cheese-maker at the Goodwood Estate has launched a new organic cheese business in the West Country. Chris Vowles, who set up the operation at Goodwood last year, producing Charlton cheddar and Molecomb Blue, has now moved to North Devon to launch a joint venture with Barton Farm Dairy. The farm, which is owned by Gary and Linda Wright and is close to Exmoor, has a 150-strong herd of Friesians and Guernseys producing milk for a range of organic, unpasteurised cheeses. These include: Kentisbury Down, a soft white cheese; a soft blue called Barton Blue; a stronger, crumblier blue called Kentisbury Blue; and a cheddar called St Thomas. A goudastyle cheese will be added to the range in due course. “We want to be able to offer delis and farm shops a complete

Vowles will make a soft blue and a soft white at Barton Farm Dairy

cheeseboard,” said Chris Vowles, who works with Gary and Linda's daughter 22-year-old Emily Wright. “We're also in discussions with wholesalers at the moment and will be targeting the restaurant trade as well.” The farm plans to launch open days in the near future showing visitors how their milk is turned

into cheese. Vowles, who is a third generation cheese-maker, is also keen to pass on his knowledge by teaching at local colleges and acting as a consultant to other cheese businesses. Bruce Rowan has replaced Vowles as head cheesemaker at Goodwood. www.bartonfarmdairy.co.uk

Production shift benefits Ribblesdale Yorkshire-based Ribblesdale Cheese has doubled volumes of its bestselling Superior Goat in the few months since bringing production in-house. The Gouda-style cheese was produced for Ribblesdale by a Dutch cheese-maker as part of a longstanding arrangement, but the company decided to move production back to its Hawes base to help control

quantity and quality levels. “After 18 months of trials, we started commercial production in May 2012 and it is now processing an additional 100,000 litres of goat milk a year to satisfy demand for this one cheese,” said MD Iona Hill. “The result of this is to double the amount of milk we process into cheese, which is quite a leap for us.”

The company, which produces six other goats’ milk cheeses, makes around one tonne of the pasteurised two-month-matured Superior Goat each month. Ribblesdale has invested in a new 4,000-litre vat, a flow pasteuriser and new production tables. It is also looking for new, preferably local goats’ milk suppliers. ribblesdalecheese.wordpress.com

Le Grand Fromage Bob Farrand

hat makes the perfect cheeseboard? When planning mine, I mostly turn to World Cheese Award Super Gold winners. They rarely fail, guests love the originality and most claim they’ve never tasted such extraordinarily good cheese. So when London’s Great Taste at the Cadogan pop-up restaurant asked me to help plan their new cheese trolley, I didn’t need to be asked twice. The World Cheese Awards attracts entries from 28 different countries, many of which are outside the EU. That means a clutch of headaches over import regulations, veterinary certificates, customs and, finally, organising deliveries while London is clogged with several thousand semi-naked people running, jumping and playing beach volleyball. The 2009 World Champion Cendrillon from Canada proved too big a challenge, as did the Huguenot from Dalewood in South Africa. We’ll try harder next time. But Neal’s Yard along with Chris Gentine of The Artisan Cheese Exchange pulled the stops out for a couple of the USA’s world-beaters. Partridges of Sloane Square will store them and deliver on demand to the Cadogan and their deli buyer, Androulla Lambrou was so intrigued with it, she’s featuring them on promotion in her counter. That’s how delis and restaurants should work together. So what’s the selection? • World Champion Ossau Iraty, Fromagerie Agour • Super Gold Barbers 1833 Vintage Cheddar • Triple World Champion Le Gruyère Premier Cru • World Champion Brie de Meaux, Rouzaire • Super Gold Brillat Savarin, Rouzaire • Super Gold Villarejo Manchego DOP Curado • Super Gold Paski Sir, Croatia • World Champion Cornish Blue • Super Gold Quickes Vintage Farmhouse Cheddar • Super Gold Landoed Matured, Holland • Super Gold Gorgonzola Dolce DOP • Super Gold Rogue Creamery Caveman Blue, USA • Super Gold Marin French Rouge et Noire La Petite Crème, USA • Super Gold Killeen Goat, Ireland FFD publisher Bob Farrand is chairman of the UK Cheese Guild

Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

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September 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 8

cheesewire

Raw desire Profile

Stichelton maker Joe Schneider tells PATRICK McGUIGAN about his on-going quest for protected status alongside Stilton

ike most good ideas, Stichelton was conceived over several pints in a pub. The pub in question was the Wheatsheaf at Borough Market and the inspired drinkers were Randolph Hodgson of Neal’s Yard Dairy and American cheesemaker Joe Schneider. As one ale led to another, the pair hatched a plan to create a raw milk version of the King of English cheeses: Stilton. While most booze-fuelled brainwaves evaporate in the cold light of morning, this one continued to gnaw away at both Hodgson and Schneider to such an extent that in 2006 they opened a new dairy in conjunction with the Welbeck Estate in Nottinghamshire. The only problem was that despite making blue cheese to a Stilton recipe in the heart of Stilton country, they weren’t allowed to use the name. Under EU rules, Stilton must be made with pasteurised milk, so they were forced to call it something different. They ended up with the cheekily similar Stichelton, the earliest-recorded name of the village of Stilton.

Joe Schneider (pictured left and above with Neal’s Yard Dairy’s Randolph Hodgson) produces 55 tonnes of Stichelton a year

isn’t there for that reason. The PDO It’s a much-told story in cheese doesn’t address issues of branding or circles, but what’s not so well-known hygiene. It’s simply there to protect is that Stichelton has written to regional traditional foods.” Defra to try to get Stilton’s Protected Pasteurisation was included in Designation of Origin (PDO) amended the terms of the PDO following an to include unpasteurised milk. So far, outbreak of food poisoning in 1989, Defra has yet to make a decision on which was linked to a batch of Stilton the matter. from the UK’s last raw milk producer “I could make Stilton with Colston Bassett, although this was bananas, but a raw milk version never proved. The isn’t allowed. head cheese-maker That’s obviously I could make Stilton at the time was perverse,” says with bananas, but Ernie Wagstaff, who Schneider. “The a raw milk version passed away in 2009 PDO should isn’t allowed. That’s after more than 40 never exclude obviously perverse. years of cheesea cheese like making. As the last ours. It’s the only ever person to make raw milk Stilton, PDO in the whole of Europe that he is a hero to Schneider, even stipulates a cheese should be made though he never met him or ate his with pasteurised milk. All the others cheese. “There wasn’t anything the stipulate the exact opposite.” man didn’t know about Stilton, but Stichelton consulted with the he couldn’t pass on that knowledge Stilton Cheesemakers’ Association because he didn’t have the skills and when it was setting up and relations didn’t know people were interested,” between the two remain cordial, says Schneider. if a little strained. The association Preserving the knowledge of introduced pasteurisation into the experienced artisan producers like terms of the PDO in 1996 and it has Wagstaff is a key aim of the School been known to send stiff letters to of Artisan Food, which is based at people if they refer to Stichelton as the Welbeck Estate. Students on the Stilton in print. school’s dairy courses often spend “I understand their point of view. time with Schneider, something he They really don’t want some yahoo wishes he could have done with farmhouse cheese-maker making a Wagstaff and his peers. Stilton that’s not safe and have an “That generation’s knowledge was incident that might besmirch their devalued. They were coming out of brand, which they’ve worked really an era in the ’50s and ’60s when hard at building,” says Schneider. there was a real wealth of knowledge “But our argument is that the PDO

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about how to make cheese properly, but in the ’70s and ’80s that fell by the wayside. It was all about yields and efficiencies,” he says. Schneider’s passion for British cheese traditions is unusual considering his background. Born and raised in New York with a degree in agricultural engineering, he only came to live in the UK in 1998 after helping a friend in Holland set up a feta business. The experience ignited his interest in cheese-making and after several work experience stints around Europe, he got his first full-time job at Plaw Hatch in Sussex. From there he went to Daylesford Organic and then Stichelton. The dairy makes around 30 cheeses a day using milk from the Estate’s organic herd of cows. It adds up to around 55 tonnes of Stichelton a year, all of which goes to Neal’s Yard. Stichelton has different characteristics throughout the year, says Schneider. In the Spring, when the cows are first put out to pasture, it’s crumbly and dense with meaty, savoury notes, while cheese made in late summer has a more open texture and develops sweet, syrupy flavours. “We get all the highs and lows of our little ecosystem,” he says. “What the cows are eating, the weather, the time of year – all of these cause seasonal changes in the milk and the cheese, which we don’t want to erase or apologise for. That’s the point of using raw milk.” www.stichelton.co.uk

Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

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September 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 8

cheesewire

news & views from the cheese counter

Planning for Christmas As supermarkets begin assembling Stilton gift packs it’s time for delis to plan their cheese orders for December. Three specialist retailers talk MICHAEL LANE through their Christmas must-haves. The Cheese Kitchen

Fowler's original Sage Derby is a December special, as is Jumi's Belper Knolle

Bedford, Bedfordshire

“Pretty well everyone buys cheese at Christmas and they like to have Stilton or a blue, a cheddar and a soft,” says Justin Waldock, who runs The Cheese Kitchen with wife Helen. Like many cheesemongers, he gets in as much of his preferred Stilton (Colston Bassett) as he can for the Christmas period. Waldock likes to carry both large and ‘baby’ 2.5kg truckles, which he will sell whole. The other two cheeses that complete his top three are year-round counter staples – Montgomery’s cheddar and Rouzaire Brie de Meaux. The brie, in particular, can be hard to get hold of so Waldock makes sure to place his order in November. However there are some cheeses that Waldock orders in especially for December, like Sage Derby. “Sage is a classic Christmas flavour. Only at Christmas do people buy this is in any quantity,” Waldock says of Fowlers of Earlswood’s Sage

Derby. He adds: “They rub sage into the cheese rather than artificially colouring or flavouring it. It’s not one of those bright green things.” Charles Martell’s Stinking Bishop is another product Waldock shifts more of during the run-up to December 25. “This sells well all year round but it’s quite expensive. People just think ‘what the hell?’ at Christmas.” Last Christmas, Waldock “took a punt” on some of the raw cows’ milk products brought to the UK by London-based Swiss cheese specialist Jumi. Its Truffle Firne, a soft, runny cheese with a layer of truffle mousse, proved popular, as did the dry, crumbly Belper Knoller, which can be sold alongside Jumi’s own truffle honey.

Despite the high prices of these niche products (Truffle Firne costs £6.50 for 100g) Waldock will be offering them again in 2012. “It’s the one time of year people will go for it,” he adds. www.thecheesekitchen.co.uk

Mollie Sharp’s Cheese Shop Selby, Yorkshire

“Last year I ordered three wheels of Brie de Meaux but somehow the supplier sent me double by accident,” recalls owner Richard Sharp. “I was going to send them back but sold all six in three days.” It’s understandable that Hennart Brie de Meaux is the first name on the festive must-stocks list at Mollie Sharp’s. Sharp also lists Colston Bassett Stilton (“It’s perfect – the right balance of creaminess and blue”) and stresses the importance of having “a good cheddar” on the counter in December. His preference is Quickes’ mature. “It’s got lots of character. I like how it develops, compared to other stuff like Snowdonia Black Bomber that comes in and punches your tongue.” Next up is the ever-divisive Wensleydale with cranberries, which Sharp gets from Hawes just for this time of year. He has also taken on Hawes’ Wensleydale with cranberries & mulled wine during previous

Colston Bassett Stilton and French cheeses like Langres are top sellers

Christmases. “For some reason people seem to think it is festive,” he says. “I don’t usually sell this. Personally, I don’t like it but it’s got its place even if it’s just getting kids eating cheese rather than Cheese Strings.” Given his demographic in Selby, Sharp says he can’t sell certain cheeses simply because they’re too expensive but he does find he sells more of his French specialities. Particularly popular are the orange rinded goats’ milk Langres and Mont D’Or Vacherins. This year will be Sharp’s third

Christmas of trading and he plans to make sure he doesn’t run out of stock as much as last year. As well as making up more selection boxes on the premises, he will be carrying gift packs from Snowdonia Cheese Co and Hawes (Wensleydale and fruit cake sets sell well). “People have no time to do this kind of shopping at Christmas,” he says. “Gift packs are easy for people to pick up and run.” www.molliesharps.co.uk

Town Mill Cheesemonger Lyme Regis, Dorset

Christmas is a different prospect for owner Justin Tunstall, given that Lyme Regis is a tourist resort rather than a market town. “Christmas comes three days before December 25, when the second-home and holiday cottage owners arrive,” he says. “It’s such a short and intense trading period, and following Christmas we close for six weeks. Wastage is a killer of profits.” With that in mind, Tunstall has less room for manoeuvre for experimenting with new cheeses at Christmas. “We place a basic order before the August bank holiday. We know what we need now and try to top it up closer to the time if things are available.” Blues are top of the list and Colston Bassett is the Stilton of choice. “It’s the nicest and it’s the one that our shoppers seem to like. The baby version seems to sell particularly well,” says Tunstall adding that the prevalence of Stilton maker Cropwell Bishop’s gift packs in multiples like Waitrose at Christmas makes it difficult for him to stock their lines. Tunstall also carries unpasteurised alternatives in the form of Stichelton and the regional Dorset Blue Vinny. “It’s the local blue. A lot of people around here have a taste for it and most of our visitors are interested in it,” he says. “Being unpasteurised it has added cachet.” Whole cheddar truckles – Town Mill carries Denhay’s Dorset Drums and Ford Farm mini cave-aged – are another of the must-haves in the shop at Christmas. Town Mill also does good trade in camembert rolled in Calvados-washed breadcrumbs and truffled brie, both supplied by wholesaler Rowcliffe. www.townmillcheese.co.uk

Dorset Drum is a festive essential Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

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August 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 8

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A promotional feature on behalf of Union Hand-Roasted Coffee

Secrets of a great brew Teach your customers to make terrific-tasting coffee and they’ll keep coming back for the beans, say JEREMY TORZ and STEVEN MACATONIA of Union Hand-Roasted Coffee

Understanding Coffee After working with fine coffee producers for many years, we find people are always fascinated to hear stories from our visits to origin countries. But the questions they ask most often are not about the plants and animals we have encountered or the challenges of language and travel, but how to actually make a good cup of coffee. This is what prevents people exploring the amazing world of flavour and aroma that fine coffee offers. In reality, it’s a relatively simple process with only four basic rules: Use the right amount of coffee – You need more than you think! We have been ruined by instant coffee, which is a concentrate. Fresh coffee is the real deal and our advice is to use around 7-9g of grounds per cup (and double this per mug). Grind your coffee to suit the brewing method – This is where most people lose the plot. Grinding opens up the surface area of the coffee to water and allows a fine ground coffee to release its flavours faster than a coarser grind, which needs to steep for longer. (Think tea: a pot of loose, full leaves needing to brew for longer than a tea bag of fine pieces). Methods in which water passes away from the grounds quickly, such as filters or espresso, need a fine grind so the coffee gives up the goodies quickly. Longer steeping times, such as in a cafetière, needs a coarser grind so that after 3-4 minutes the coffee is not overbrewed. Don’t use boiling water – “Coffee boiled is coffee spoiled” goes the old saying. Most bitterness comes from scorching the grounds, so allow the kettle to settle for half a minute after boiling. The ideal water temperature is 90-95°C. Give water and coffee enough time – Along with grinding, brew time is the key element in getting all the good flavour into the cup and leaving the bitter notes inside the grounds. The finer the grind, the quicker coffee will extract its flavours and sugars. This has to be balanced with allowing the brewer to work properly. A cafetière uses a coarse grind and a long steeping time of 4 minutes. With a filter (whether a simple cone on top of a cup or a full-on filter machine), a finer grind

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their advantage, offering is used so the flavour is interactive and engaging extracted as the water events for customers passes down through the is great for generating grounds. Too coarse and excitement, footfall and the water drains through additional sales. Coffee fast and does not collect is no different. In good all the flavour. Too fine coffee retailers, sales can and the grounds don’t often be enhanced by drain, and the cup will offering a small selection become muddy with overof coffee makers that extracted flavours. demonstrate the retailer’s So having worked interest in the subject. out the rules, the only These also then can be other thing to decide is: used for demonstrations how intense a cup do and coffee tasting – I want? Just like wine drinking, sometimes you Whatever the brewing especially the smaller gadgets such as the may prefer something method it's vital your light and fragrant, and coffee is ground to suit drippers which are perfect for making a single cup in at others, a rich heavy tasting sessions. bodied brew. Whatever your choice, The range of gourmet coffee the final choice of which gadget styles available really is diverse and – home filter machine, dripper cone, with the right coffees a customer cafetiére, stovetop espresso maker tasting session can really demonstrate or any of the other toys that have flavours and choice. As well as our appeared in recent years – depends filter ground retail range we also offer on your coffee mood at that moment. a full range of wholebean speciality The good news is that just about coffees from full bodied and intense any (non instant!) coffee can be styles to contrasting lighter coffees brewed in any coffee-maker as long nuanced with notes of red fruits or as the beans are ground appropriately. zingy citrus sparkle. These are ideal for Depending upon the country of loose bean retailing. origin and how the beans have been One final point to think about processed and roasted, all levels of for delis that sell whole beans and intensity of flavour are available and offer to grind to order. Over the years this can be further enhanced by the we have seen some wonderful old different brewing devices and we grinders in shops that would not look carry instructions on how to use each out of place in a museum. on our website. While many continue to offer As wine retailers have found to

service, remember that grinding is crucial to coffee quality, so ensure the blades are sharp and that the machine can be adjusted to different settings so you can grind for your customers' required brew method. If the machine is past it, your customers may not get a good result. Customers are thirsty for knowledge about how to make and enjoy coffee at home. If you can unlock the door by showing it’s a simple but methodical process, your occasional coffee buyer will become a habituated regular and will come to respect your advice as well as the opportunity to learn. www.unionroasted.com

Scan here to read Union Hand-Roasted Coffee’s guide to brewing and storage

Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

September 2012 路 Vol.13 Issue 8

product update

savoury snacks

Crunch time

From popped chips to posh pork scratchings and regional potato crisp flavours, LYNDA SEARBY finds out what’s new in speciality snacks

Awfully Posh Pork Crackling is turning up the heat with its new scorchingly hot chilli flavour. Using pork rinds from outdoor-bred pigs, the crackling is fried in batches and sprinkled with chilli powder, garlic and Anglesey sea salt. RRP is £1 a bag. www.awfullyposhsnacks.com

Fiddler’s Lancashire Crisps has launched a new Lancashire chilli flavour, which uses Westshore Chillies grown a few miles from the Fiddler’s potato farm. It also plans to extend the range with a ‘no salt’ crisp towards the end of September.

After initially launching in 40g bags last June, Just Crisps are now available in 150g sharing packs too. RRP is £1.85 and trade price is £12.64 + VAT for 12 units. The producer makes its crisps in its farm factory, from its own potatoes and own rapeseed oil.

www.fiddlerslancashirecrisps. co.uk

www.justcrisps.co.uk

High in fibre, 100% wholegrain and providing less than 100 calories per pack, popcorn brand Propercorn is pitched as a healthy alternative to crisps. It comes in Worcester sauce & sun dried tomato, sweet & salty, sour cream & chive and lightly sea salted flavours, and is already listed with Waitrose, Whole Foods Market, Harvey Nichols and Benugo. RRP is 95p for a 20g packet (80p in Waitrose). www.propercorn.com

Following the launch of its first popcorn seasoning box last year, ZaraMama has introduced three new seasoning boxes for consumers who want to flavour their own home-cooked popcorn. The sweet (vanilla and maple flavours), savoury (chilli & lime and cheese), and mixed (one of each of the four flavours) boxes have an RRP of £2.

Food writer Tom Parker Bowles, BBC2 Great British Menu judge Matthew Fort and Cotswold farmer and PR man Rupert Ponsonby aimed to take pork scratchings upmarket with the creation of Mr Trotter’s Great British pork crackling. The ‘posh’ crackling is said to be superior to a scratching because it is made from British pork rather than Danish rind, using a longer process to deliver a crisper crunch. Less than a year after launch, the product is in over 200 outlets, including Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Fortnum & Mason and Booths supermarkets. It retails at £1.89-£2 a bag. www.mrtrotter.com

www.zaramama.com

Popchips was the fastest growing potato chip in the US during 2011 (source: Nielsen) and the Californian company hopes to replicate this performance this side of the Atlantic, where the popped chips have been in Waitrose since March. The chips are popped with heat and pressure to make a product with less than half the fat of fried crisps and under 100 calories per 23g bag (RRP £0.69). www.popchips.co.uk Pipers Crisps have been rebranded to “emphasise all the differences that set the brand apart from the competition”. The company has done away with on-pack photos and instead the new name – Pipers Crisp Co – and the message ‘made by farmers’ take centre stage. The Lincolnshire company makes its crisps in its own facility, and has pledged not to deal with the major supermarkets. www.piperscrisps.com

Kent Crisps has taken the classic steak & ale combo into the potato crisps arena with a new roast beef & Spitfire ale flavour. Using Spitfire ale, made by brewer Shepherd Neame in Faversham, fits with the producer’s strategy of celebrating the county’s produce. Kent Crisps are already in some Waitrose stores. RRP for a 45g bag is 85p. www.kentcrisps.com.

Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

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September 2012 路 Vol.13 Issue 8

www.hiderfoods.co.uk

product update

savoury snacks

Movers and shakers With some producers embracing the multiples, LYNDA SEARBY takes a look at the producers now vying for a share of the speciality potato crisp market

Delis that want to offer something a little more sophisticated than roasted nuts and potato crisps should check out Tarallini, a traditional Puglian snack from Crosta & Mollica. These crisp baked dough rings are made with extra virgin olive oil and local white wine and flavoured with fennel seeds. They are already on sale in Waitrose (RRP £1.89 for 180g) and are available to the independent trade through Cotswold Fayre at a trade price of £18.25 for a case of 12 bags. www.crostamollica.com

Retailers on the look-out for products that are new to the UK may be interested in organic popcorn from Spanish company Aperitivos de Anavieja. The popcorn, which has an RRP of €1.10€1.20, isn’t sold in the UK at present but the producer is seeking stockists. www.anavieja.com

Five years after it was first launched, Burts Chips’ firecracker lobster flavour is set for a comeback, following a social media campaign, which saw consumers voting for the re-introduction of the flavour. The crisp, which uses flavourings created from the shells of fresh lobsters and sweet chillies, will be introduced in a new wave-cut format. www.burtschips.com

Rewind five years and the leading speciality potato crisp brands were Tyrrells and Kettle Chips’ Kettle Kitchen sub-brand. Now one is no longer niche and the other has gone, there is no clear market leader. While Tyrrells’ founder William Chase resisted the lure of the supermarkets, since buying the business in 2008 Langholm Capital has jumped into bed with the multiples. Kettle Chips also appears to have snubbed its independent base, withdrawing the Kettle Kitchen range and focusing again on supermarkets. The actions of both manufacturers have left a gaping hole in the speciality potato crisps market... or have they? There is no shortage of contenders. On the contrary, the last few years have seen an influx of newcomers, from Kent Crisps to Fiddler’s Lancashire Crisps, Brown Bag Crisps and Just Crisps, all keen to plug the gap. “As the larger crisp manufacturers have moved into deals with multiple grocers, the farm shops and convenience stores are looking for something to compete with,” says Anthony Froggatt of Just Crisps. “If shoppers can pick up deals in supermarkets, independents need to be offering something a bit different, hence we’ve seen the likes of ourselves entering the marketplace to give them that alternative.” With these newer brands facing up to more established firms like Burts Chips, Pipers Crisps Co and Fairfield Farm, the market is certainly more competitive than it was a few years ago. “There have been some new entrants to the industry recently, some with relevance to a particular region, and others who are perhaps attempting to cut and paste what we have done over the last six years,” says Robert

Fairfield Farm says it has captured one of the simplest summer dishes – new potatoes smothered in butter with fresh mint – in a bag of crisps. Using mint sourced from Norfolk family farm Stangroom Brothers and Colne Valley potatoes, butter & mint is one of three new flavours – together with sea salt & black pepper and no salt – from the Essex-based crisp producer. www.fairfieldsfarmcrisps.co.uk

Hurst: ‘Sector is overpopulated’

Strathern of Fairfield Farm Crisps. In such a crowded marketplace, it will be difficult for any one player to rise to the top unless there is some consolidation, which Burts Chips MD Nick Hurst believes is a distinct possibility. “I think the sector is overpopulated because people have seen the success of Tyrrells and think there is an easy buck in there. But there isn’t, so I think there will be a certain amount of amalgamation among the regional players.” Admittedly, it is hard to see how a brand that trades on its regionality is ever going to have national appeal, but then, Kent Crisps MD Angie Curwen points out: “While regions do support their local products, there’s something quirky about, say, having tea from Yorkshire and crisps from Kent wherever you are in the country. As a nation, I think we’re proud of what this country produces as a whole.” Cornish Crisps MD Sue Wolstenholme also argues that her company’s crisps have a far broader following than just Cornish consumers. “Cornish is a premium food adjective,” she says. “We’re lucky to have that in our name as it means people all over the place are buying our crisps. We wouldn’t survive with just our region.” Even if a regional producer can establish a national market for its crisps, with the current

overpopulation, there are concerns that the independent sector alone cannot sustain a business of that size. “A lot of companies don’t realise how high the entry costs are,” says Burts Chips’ Hurst. “We’ve spent £1.5-2m on equipment and need sales in excess of £1.5m a year to finance our overheads. Doing that just through the independents is challenging.” This situation has “forced” Burts to deal with the multiples – the Devon producer now has national distribution with Waitrose and Tesco – but Hurst insists this is only to support its independent business, saying: “I’m not a great advocate of supermarkets but you have to dance with the devil to finance supplying the independents.” Fairfield Farm has just invested a substantial sum in setting up its own factory, and while Fairfield Farm Crisps are strictly for the independents only, there’s no doubt proceeds from the company’s Jackpots crisps, which are supplied to Tesco, Waitrose and Morrison, will go a long way towards making the investment pay back. However, not all crisp producers believe that you have to ‘dance with the devil’ to become a dominant force. Alex Albone of Pipers Crisps makes the point that “there are multiple routes to market – not just delis and farm shops”. His company is eight years old and he has managed to build his business to a stage where it’s making 1.3 million packets a month, without supplying the multiples. Even if it were possible for one or two players to emerge as dominant, not every crisp producer, Pipers included, wants to pick up the baton from Tyrrells. “I have no aspirations to build my business to that size,” says Albone.

Distributor Bespoke Foods has listed a new range of Italian baked products. These Meliorabranded savoury biscuits are baked with extra virgin olive oil and come in four variants: Scrocchiette: sea salt & rosemary (200g), Sfogliette: garlic & parsley (180g), Bruschette: tomato & basil (150g) and Tocchetti: cheese & onion (200g). www.bespoke-foods.co.uk

Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

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September 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 8

For more information or to request a brochure on American Wild Rice contact: USA Rice Federation Tel: 01753 851 910 Email: customer@usarice.com For recipe inspiration go to www.usarice.eu or www.cawildrice.com Vol.13 Issue 8 路 September 2012

product update

Filling good

Dorset bakery Honeybuns has created two gluten-free savoury tarts with deli cafés in mind; one from farmhouse Cheddar, tomato chutney and free range eggs; the other with garlicky mushroom, pesto and Capricorn Somerset goat’s cheese. Both are presented in fully compostable heat-proof dishes. www.honeybuns.co.uk

LYNDA SEARBY finds out what’s new in speciality pies for those deli owners who prefer to leave the rolling, fluting and crimping to the experts

Cook has improved its steak & red wine and chicken, ham & leek pies. The steak pie (RRP £4.75 for a single serving and £8.50 for a two portion pie) is now made with a ‘tastier’ Merlot wine and Cook has increased the amount of white wine in the chicken, ham & leek pie (RRP £3.85 for a single serving and £6.99 for two servings), plus both have a shorter pastry lid. The new improved pies will be available from September 22. www.cookfood.net

Top sellers…

tment Deli, ...at The Allo St Ives

on icken, gamm Grumpies ch & leek ue cheese & Grumpies bl walnut eak & ale Grumpies st mb & mint Grumpies la o, cheese mity (potat Grumpies ho

Dartmoor Kitchen, based near Exeter in Devon, has added a lamb & leek pie to its Tom’s Pies range. Trade price is £2.15, and the pies are supplied in boxes of eight. Stockists so far include delis and independent retailers across the south of England. www.toms-pies.co.uk

& onion)

Can everyone earn a crust? MICHAEL LANE asks two producers if the market is overcrowded Like many speciality food categories, the pie sector has seen an influx of eager new producers. While there are more firms selling into it, however, Simple Simon’s Pies general manager Christina Wild thinks there is enough of a market to sustain a range of suppliers. “If you go to food shows you can see that there a lots of different kinds for sale and they all sell well alongside each other,” says Wild, daughter of the firm’s founder Bernard Alessi, who is the creator of the firm’s meal-in-itself style product (pictured right).

September 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 8

Tom Little, who runs Tom’s Pies with business partner and chef Tom Cull, describes today’s market as “seriously competitive”, citing the increasing number of smaller producers as well as the supermarkets developing their own “quality” ranges. Little, whose business is split roughly 50/50 between supplying foodservice and independent retailers, says there are two distinct price bands in the category. “It’s £3.50-£4.50 in independents and as soon as you go into multiples the top end is £2.49-

£2.99,” he says. “You won’t see one beyond that in supermarkets.” Price is a bit of a sticking point for Simple Simon’s as it looks to grow its business. “We’re at a stage where we want to supply bigger outlets but the margins that supermarkets apply are so big it would price our pies off the shelf,” explains Simple Simon’s Wild, adding that some of her father’s 60-odd creations retail at £7.60 for an individual portion. Of course, you can reduce the

ingredients and bulk up on pastry but that is compromising quality. “Other pies you see that are readily available have had to make that decision,” she says. “With our pies, cost goes out the window.” Simple Simon’s has managed to boost sales in the last 12 months

speciality pies Recipes for dinner, lunch...and breakfast? The inspiration for Bray’s Cottage’s latest introduction struck when owner Sarah Pettegree was standing at her farmer’s market stall early one morning. “We were talking about what we fancied for breakfast, and

Essex based Fuud has joined forces with Brentwood Brewing Company to develop a venison pie using the brewery’s Hope & Glory ale, as well as a localised version of the classic steak & ale pie using Brentwood Gold Ale. The pies come in Panibois wooden packaging and retail in the range of £4.20-£4.60. Delivery is direct from Fuud via courier. www.brocklebys.co.uk

Pieminister couldn’t resist having a playful pop at the London 2012 chairman, launching a Sebastian Cow pie to coincide with the games. It is made with beef steak and beans slow-cooked in a tomato sauce, with chipotle chilli for a bit of a kick. The RRP is £2.99 for a 270g pie and the minimum order is 24. www.pieminister.co.uk

started imagining a breakfast pork pie,” she recalls, and so the all-day breakfast pork pie (pictured above) was created. As well as Bray’s Cottage pork pie filling, it contains a quail’s egg (sourced from Great Snoring, Norfolk), smoked bacon (cured and smoked at Great Ryburgh, Norfolk) and a layer of baked beans. Pettegree says the pie has already become a firm favourite at Norfolk farmers’ markets and

Just as no beavers are harmed in the making of Brocklebys’ wild beaver pie (which contains beef, not beaver!), the Melton Mowbray producer’s newly launched penguin pie is strictly a bird-free zone. Penguin pie is made with smoked haddock and Lincolnshire potatoes, in a cheese and onion sauce. “It’s what penguins like, you see!” says the company’s Andy O’Donnell! The penguin pie is a 6”round and retails at £6.

with retail customers such as the Caracoli stores in Winchester, Guildford and Alresford. The pies can either be supplied cooked or uncooked and frozen to cook as required, to allow smaller retailers to achieve minimum order quantities (around 40 pies). Trade price is £1.85 for an individual pie, £4.50 for a medium pie and £13 for a large pie. Further north, Hinchliffe’s Farm Shop and Restaurant in Huddersfield has also taken inspiration from the most important meal of the day. Its latest pie contains “everything you’d expect to find in a full Yorkshire breakfast”, including black pudding, scrambled egg, tomato, sausages, bacon and baked beans. As well as its own farm shop and restaurant, Hinchliffe’s supplies sandwich shops, pubs and restaurants throughout Yorkshire. www.perfectpie.co.uk www.hinchliffes.com

Previously only available in Scotland, from this month Findlaters’ pies will be available direct from the producer to retailers across the UK. The sixstrong range comprises: classic steak pie, roast salmon pie with oyster bisque, chicken & Serrano ham pie, Mexican chicken pie with red pepper & chorizo, haggis pie with sweet chilli & cheddar, and crunchy carrot & red onion pie with Dunsyre cheese. The RRPs range from £2.80 to £3.29. www.findlatersfinefoods.co.uk

Belfast bakery Ann’s Pantry was recently approached by Bruces Hill Cattle Company with a view to using its Dexter beef. The result is a traditional Irish 9” Dexter & Guinness pie, which retails at £6.50 and is distributed by Bruces Hill Farm Shop in Country Antrim. Ann’s Pantry currently sells via its own shop, local outlets and St George’s Market, but is hoping to expand further in Northern Ireland, Ireland and the UK. www.bruceshillfarmshop.com

www.brocklebys.co.uk

through a listing on TV shopping channel QVC, for which it only has to scale up production for a short period. Nevertheless, Wild says that in the pie market there is not much middle ground between supplying the multiples and local independents. She adds that producers choosing to go into supermarkets risk losing their smaller customers. Tom Little is happy to see other speciality pies brands listed in the multiples because it gives him a point of difference when selling into delis. However, he says that being exclusive to the independent sector is not enough of a point of difference and in the next few months Tom’s Pies will be offering individually packaged pies, not just loose

pies. Little says the move is “long overdue” especially as there are lots of delis that just have chiller cabinets rather than a serve-over. “It opens up a whole new section of the market. There are quite a few retailers who won’t take them unless they’re individually boxed.” Even if pie makers have the ear of independents, they still have to vie for shelf space with a plethora of in-store creations. Wild says that pie specialists can still offer a point of difference. “You can get some great butcher’s pies made with local meat and a lot of farm shops are making good pies with their own produce,” she says. “What’s often forgotten about is the pastry. A pie is not just

about the meat.” She adds that too often pies are made with too much pastry, which leads to uneven cooking and a leaden stomach for the consumer. Tom’s Pies has opted for thin butter shortcrust pastry cases, based on scotch pies. Not only does this allow Tom’s to maximise the filling it also broadens the appeal of its products. “We get great reception from female customers because the pastry is light and thin,” says Little. “With niche pie companies, there’s been a move away from the ‘builder’s pie’ – a huge lump of saturated fat in pastry.” The fillings supplied by speciality makers are also increasingly breaking

from tradition. While steak & ale is still a big seller for Tom’s, Little says that one of the most popular pies is its venison with squash, red onion & juniper berries. Simple Simon’s Wild says that the firm’s honeyed venison collops pie is of one its bestsellers and adds that their range has always sold well despite only recently adding ‘core flavours’ like steak & kidney. “A lot of people are just trying to make money at the moment,” says Wild. “It’s difficult but the very fact that we sell top of the range pies and we’re still in business after a recession shows people still want to be eating good food.” www.simplesimonspies.co.uk www.toms-pies.co.uk

Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

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September 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 8

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product update

speciality pies

It’s a shore thing

Pipers Farm has teamed up with local producers to create what it describes as ‘a celebration of the beautiful bounty Devon has to offer’. Chuck and skirt cuts of Pipers Farm red ruby beef browned in Bell & Loxton rapeseed oil are the basis of the Devon pie. The beef is partnered with Otter Brewery’s strongest beer, Otter Head, which is described as having a ‘distinctive old ale character and well balanced aroma’. Red onion & thyme marmalade from another Devon producer, Hillside Speciality Foods, is added to the beef stock, giving the gravy a glossy finish. The swede, carrots and new potatoes are sourced from local farms. www.pipersfarm.com

Newcomer New Zealand Gourmet Pie Company claims to be the only producer of Kiwi style pies in the UK. Founder Mike Henderson says New Zealand pies differ from their British counterparts in that they can be “comfortably consumed from the hand without the usual mess” because the pastry is stronger and the fillings are moist and tasty but not runny. Fillings include Mike’s chilli beef and Thai chicken curry (RRP £3.25). www.gourmetpie.co.uk

Kinsale Gourmet’s main point of difference is that it is the first food business in Ireland to incorporate ‘sea vegetables’, or seaweed, into all of its frozen pies and ready meals. “Dillisk is a sea-vegetable super-food that has been a staple in Asian diets for thousands of years and we think it is time we started making use of this super nutritious sea vegetable in our daily diets here in Ireland,” says the company’s Miriam Crowley. The initial range, about to launch nationwide in Ireland, includes two pies presented in terracotta dishes. These are Kinsale

seafood pie, which combines smoked West Cork haddock, salmon and dillisk, with sautéed vegetables in a cream sauce, topped with a puff pastry shell, and West Cork cottage pie, made with Irish beef, braised vegetables and dillisk, topped with mashed potato. The County Cork business has just started supplying local Eurospars around Munster and is in discussions with the multiples in Ireland. As it is initially launching in Ireland Kinsale Gourmet has not yet agreed a RRP in sterling, but urges interested stockists to get in direct contact to discuss distribution terms. www.kinsalegourmet.ie

Young entrepreneur proves pie-making is no game Most 19-year-olds have probably never tasted a game pie, let alone made one, but Cureton’s Fine Food founder Henry Cureton has already set up his own pie-making business, and the flagship product is a game pie. “I started making my products last September after completing my A levels, and not really wanting to go to university. They are all hand made by myself at home in Shropshire,” says Cureton. He describes his game pie as “a modern twist on the traditional game pie”: a layer of spiced and seasoned pork meat on the bottom, diced pheasant, venison, pigeon and duck with dried cranberries as the main filling. This is then topped with another layer To honour the Queen’s Jubilee and the Olympics, the Uppercrust Pie Co has created a ‘celebration’ pie: pheasant with chestnut apple & herb stuffing topped with blueberries infused in champagne. Weighing 140g each, they are supplied to the trade in cases of 16 at a cost of £18.30. Also new

The sale of Treflach Farm pork pies helps to fund animal care and horticultural projects for community groups including young adults with learning difficulties and adults with mental health issues. The CIC (Community Interest Company) produces the pies on its Shropshire farm using hand-raised hot water crust pastry and its own free-range pork. www.treflachfarm.co.uk

Top sellers…

’s Deli, Nor th ...at Bunney Berwick

of pork meat. The pie is lightly jellied and encased in short crust pastry. He says the pie is made according to an original family recipe, and is a lot lighter than other game pies. The pies come in two sizes, 250g (RRP £2.95) and 500g (RRP £4.95). They are currently stocked in a handful of delis, farm shops and local shops.

eak pie Findlaters’ st & red unchy carrot Findlaters’ cr cheese ith Dunsyre onion pie w e ano ham pi icken & Serr Findlaters’ ch pie with ast salmon Findlaters’ ro oyster bisque

www.curetonsfinefood.co.uk

from the Manchester producer is a Lancashire cold-cutting pie, made from Gloucester Old Spot pork, Lancashire cheese, chutney and Bury black pudding. It comes in 454g (trade price £4.18), 1750g (trade price £16.70) and 2750g (trade price £23.84) sizes. www.uppercrustpies.com

Okemoor has reintroduced its Ploughman’s hand raised pie in response to customer requests. The pie is filled with diced pork shoulder, chunks of mature cheddar and chutney, and comes in two sizes: 7” (trade price £24.85) and 9½” (trade price £38.80). The Devon producer has also introduced the Ploughman’s pie as a multiportion 11” pie (trade price £20.60). www.okemoor.co.uk

Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

Situated in the heart of rural Shropshire

Award-winning Luxury Game Pie, crisp short crust pastry Tender succulent game meat, light fruity and juicy All hand made and prepared We would like to introduce our kitchens in Leigh on Sea, where we produce our exciting range of high quality produce all handmade by chefs and not machines.

Steak, Kidney & Mushroom Pie

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Our range of very popular pies have been developed over many years and been proven to be a great success both in the trade and at selected butchers, farm shops & deli’s. We are always looking to develop new ranges and we also specialise in small production runs of your own products, we can cater for large or small quantities in our fully approved kitchens, we have full HACCP controls H PIE AWAR in place ensuring safety, quality & traceability to the highest levels. M

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The Wee Pie Company has a passion for provenance & ensures that all of its game & specialty meats are sourced locally. Our recipes are original & unique, having been developed over many years. Each pie is a pure delight, an original flavour combination packed with chunks of meat, sleeping within their own sauces, encased in crisp flaky pastry just waiting for you to take a bite... Fresh, seasonal & exciting is not enough to describe the mouth watering experience that hits you when tasting these phenomenal hand filled pastry pies. Feast your eyes on our wide selection of products, all local, all handmade & all from

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September 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 8

We now offer a range of three game bird roasts, also our new range of gift hampers for Christmas, featuring our Gold award-winning products. Email for further details info@curetonsfinefood.co.uk www.curetonsfinefood.co.uk

A promotional feature for the Guild of Fine Food

SEPTEMBER’S MONEY MAKING PROMOTIONS The Guild of Fine Food has developed its Retail Promotion Scheme to help retailers survive recession hit Britain. We are negotiating with our producer members and have handpicked a selection of great products on which we’ve secured big discounts unique to Guild retail members.

PIEMINISTER

MARSDEN’S CONFECTIONERY

CHOI TIME TEAS

The pie firm has added several flavours to its range. The four newcomers are the free ranger pie (free range British chicken & outdoor reared ham hock with leek & west country cheddar), the deerstalker (British venison & outdoor reared dry cured bacon with red wine & lentils), peahock pie (British outdoor reared ham hock with garden peas & mustard) and the fungi chicken pie (free range British chicken, chestnut & field mushrooms cooked in a creamy white sauce). THE DEAL: 20% off first orders across the whole range AVAILABILITY: Nationwide CONTACT: Kate Walshaw on 01179 504567 or kate.walshaw@pieminister.co.uk

Marsden’s produces handmade fudge in small batches to a traditional recipe, free of artificial flavourings and colourings, in a variety of flavours, including vanilla, chocolate, ginger, Bailey’s, rum & raisin, peppermint and lavender. The vanilla and chocolate are both previous winners of Great Taste Awards. All flavours are available in 140g and 280g bags as well as 60g bars. THE DEAL: Buy a mixed case and get 10 x 140g bags free. Free delivery on all orders over £150.00 AVAILABILITY: Nationwide CONTACT: Alex on 01488 638288 or marsdens.fudge@btinternet.com

Choi Time provides a range of Chinese speciality teas, which have won a total of 16 Great Taste Awards between them. The collection includes teas that unfurl and blossom such as jasmine green tea pearls, damask rose buds, chrysanthemum flowers, wild green tea, white tea, flowering tea bulbs and green oolong tea. THE DEAL: 15% off £250 orders + free samples and tasting notes for in-store tea tastings. Quote promo code: GFF12 AVAILABITY: Nationwide, £12 carriage for orders under £250. CONTACT: Tel: Melissa Choi on 0207 266 7856 or wholesale@choitime.com

EXQUISITE RANGE Exquisite Range’s saffron, winner of a 3-star Great Taste 2012 gold, is directly selected and imported by the firm. The importer says the product’s high quality and packaging will guarantee customer satisfaction. This product is available to Guild members at a 25% discount. THE DEAL: Buy 3 cases (9x1g jar), receive one case free (worth £45) and free delivery. AVAILABILITY: Mainland UK CONTACT: Farshad on 07771 902293 or mail@exquisiterange.com

OGILVY’S

ODYSEA

Ogilvy’s Honey offers reliable, traceable 100% pure unblended honey from all around the world under one label. It sources honeys from New Zealand, Eastern Europe, India (organically certified), and Zambia – ranging from mild to strong. THE DEAL: Order 3 or more trays and receive a free sample kit AVAILABILITY: Nationwide CONTACT: Shamus Ogilvy on 01780 450377 or info@ogilvys.com

Odysea has launched okra in rich tomato sauce & olive oil to complement the existing range of appetisers in 340g jars – stuffed vine leaves, gigantes beans and roasted aubergine imam. Subject to minimum order value. THE DEAL: 30% off the Odysea 340g jar range in September AVAILABILITY: Nationwide CONTACT: Martin Bumpsteed on 07769 670278 or martin@odysea.com

RAISTHORPE MANOR

UNCLE ROY’S

The beverage producer makes two drinks using sloes grown on its own estate. Its sloe gin – winner of a Great Taste award in 2011 – is produced using traditional methods, seeping sloes in London gin and sugar before being left to mature. Raisthorpe’s sloe port is the UK’s first sloe liqueur made with port, combining the smoothness of port with the bitterness of the sloes. THE DEAL: Buy 4 cases, get the 5th free AVAILABILITY: Nationwide CONTACT: Julia Medforth on 01377 288295 or raisthorpe1@btconnect.com

Uncle Roy’s Old Fashioned Gravy Salt is now available exclusively to independent retailers. Made with coarse sea salt to maintain a powdery texture, this product can be used to add colour and flavour to soups, stews and gravy. The firm also makes a reduced sodium version of the salt, which it says sells well alongside the original variety. THE DEAL: Buy 2 cases of Old Fashioned Gravy Salt and get a case of Reduced Sodium Gravy Salt (worth £9.95) free. AVAILABILITY: Nationwide as part of any carriage paid order CONTACT: Uncle Roy on 01683 221076 or uncleroy@uncleroys.co.uk

GUILD RETAIL PROMOTION SUMMARY (Available to Guild members only)

COMPANY

DEAL

CHOI TIME EXQUISITE RANGE MARSDEN’S CONFECTIONERY ODYSEA OGILVY’S PIEMINISTER RAISTHORPE MANOR UNCLE ROY’s

15% off £250 orders and in-store tasting kit (Quote promo code: GFF12) Buy 3 cases of saffron, get 1 free Buy a mixed case, get ten 140g bags free 30% discount on 340g jar range during September Order 3 or more trays and receive a free sample kit 20% off first orders Buy 4 cases of sloe gin or port, get the 5th free Buy 2 cases of Old Fashioned Gravy Salt and get a case of Reduced Sodium Gravy Salt free.

TEL

0207 2667856 wholesale@choitime.com 07771 902293 mail@exquisiterange.com 01488 638288 marsdens.fudge@btinternet.com 07769 670278 martin@odysea.com 01780 450 377 info@ogilvys.com 01179 504567 kate.walshaw@pieminister.co.uk 01377 288295 raisthorpe1@btconnect.com 01683 221076 uncleroy@uncleroys.co.uk

RETAIL MEMBERS – To sign up to the retail promotion scheme contact: tortie.farrand@finefoodworld.co.uk or ring her on 01963 824464 to ensure you receive your shelf-barkers to help promote these discounts instore. SUPPLIER MEMBERS – want to take part? Contact sally.coley@finefoodworld.co.uk for more information.

Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

JOIN US for the most glittering evening in the fine food calendar as we discover the foods that struck GOLD at GREAT TASTE 2012 Don’t miss the Great Taste Golden Fork Awards Monday September 3 2012 – Royal Garden Hotel, Kensington, London

oin us in the company of leading chefs, food writers, top retailers and the very best food producers for fine food’s biggest night of the year.

Tension will mount as you watch the judging unfold on the big screen, until the moment when members of the supreme jury make their final choice for Great Taste Supreme Champion 2012.

Two golden opportunities in a single evening. Firstly, after walking the red carpet into the Palace Suite, be part of the pre-dinner reception, enjoy an early evening drink as you taste 3-star Gold award winning products from Great Taste 2012 and meet the people who made them. Next, join us for a sumptuous four course meal created by Royal Garden Hotel chef, Steve Munkley using Great Taste Award-winning foods and matched with fine wines selected by the Guild of Fine Food to complement the stunning gold-standard ingredients. In between courses, the story of this year’s Awards will unfold as BBC Radio 2’s Nigel Barden along with Guild director, Bob Farrand announce the winners of the 2012 Golden Forks and the winner of the Delicatessen of the Year.

If you are in the business of fine food, this really is the best night of the year. Book your seat today but hurry, places are limited Please hurry, as only 350 dinner seats are available. To book your places please email charlie.westcar@finefoodworld.co.uk or call the Guild on 01963 824464. Ticket prices for the reception and dinner are: £108 per person for Guild of Fine Food members inc ½ bottle of wine and VAT and £120 inc ½ bottle of wine and VAT for non-members Tables seat 10. Dress code – jacket and tie and a dash of gold.

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Vol.13 Issue 8 路 September 2012

September 2012 路 Vol.13 Issue 8

speciality & fine food fair

Fairest of them all The Olympics are over, let Olympia begin. Our comprehensive listing of this year’s SFFF exhibitors starts on p55, while on p49 we talk to four of the top celebrity chefs taking part in the show’s Fine Food Forum.

t’s always the biggest and most stimulating show of the year, and this year’s Speciality & Fine Food Fair will, according to organiser Fresh Montgomery, be bigger than ever. The three-day extravaganza features more than 600 local, regional and international producers showcasing their food and drink to speciality food buyers from the retail and foodservice trades. Taking place from September 2-4 at London Olympia, the 2012 exhibition will also feature live cookery demonstrations from top chefs in the Fine Food Forum, educational seminars in the Small

Business Forum sponsored by Cotswold Fayre, and free one-to-one expert advice sessions, also in the Small Business Forum. Visitors will also have the opportunity to try award-winning products from Great Taste 2012. This year sees the return of the Speciality Chocolate Fair – the UK’s only trade event dedicated to fine and artisan chocolate – running alongside the main exhibition. New to the programme for 2012 is the UK Chocolate Masters Finals, which will see chocolate artisans and pastry chefs showcasing their creations in a bid to be crowned

National Chocolate Master and book a place at the World Chocolate Masters in Paris. You can find full timetables for the Fine Food Forum and Small Business Forum on the show website, along with travel details for first-time visitors. Fine Food Digest and the Guild of Fine Food will be at the show as ever, but in a new spot, stand 910, where you can also take part in our second annual Best Brands survey. We look forward to seeing you there. www.specialityandfinefoodfairs.co.uk @Speciality_Food

Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

STAND 430 Speciality & Fine Food Fair 2012 2-4 September London Olympia

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The word on the street A shift in British food culture from fine dining towards street food presents new challenges to traditional fine food stores. MICK WHITWORTH asked chefs involved in this year’s Speciality & Fine Food Fair – including three BBC MasterChef winners – how delis should respond.

or the first time, says 2010 MasterChef champion Dhruv Baker, London is probably the most exciting place to eat in the world. The bar is being raised, not just in fine dining, but also in informal ‘street food’, which has kept the blogging and tweeting classes enthralled for the last few years. “In the past, if you wanted a burger, you were limited to a few chains that shall remain nameless or to ropy pubs,” says Baker, one of nearly a dozen chefs demoing at Olympia. “But I had a burger in the street recently that was as good as any I’ve ever had anywhere.” The same can be said for fried chicken, pizza and a host of Asian cuisines too, with trailers and vans offering restaurant-quality Thai, Vietnamese, Cambodian and Chinese food to itinerant foodies. Recent start-ups like Meat Liquor and Pitt Cue bridge the gap between formal and informal dining, creating a third way for those who don’t want a white tablecloth but do want serious quality food. “I suspect many people think there’s an element of ‘Emperor’s New Clothes’ about this,” says Baker. “But a lot of the businesses who were doing ‘street meat’ are opening restaurants and moving into really commercial ventures now, because not everyone wants to sit down for an eight-course fine-dining

meal. They just want really good ingredients.” Pitt Cue is just one example: it operates from a trailer on the South Bank near Hungerford Bridge and now has a ‘BBQ, Bourbon and Beer’ restaurant in Soho too. Baker suggests retailers need to take more interest in what’s occurring at street level. “With social media it’s quite easy to keep a broad overview,” he says. “Then just go and eat at these places.” Mat Follas, the Hampshireborn but New Zealand-raised winner

Mat Follas: ‘Delis need to be thinking how they can introduce more fresh ingredients’ of MasterChef 2009, has two restaurants: his original Wild Garlic in Beaminster, Dorset, which has two AA rosettes, and the newly opened Chesil Beach Café on the causeway that connects Weymouth to Portland. The café, sharing space with a Dorset Wildlife Trust visitor centre, serves a mix of light meals and mains, the latter averaging £11.50-£12.00, with Mediterranean, Asian, British and US influences: linguine with Cornish clams; pulled pork with BBQ sauce, hashed potatoes & cheesy coleslaw; and peri peri free-range chicken breast. Southern US-style Po’Boys –

complete meals in a crispy roll, and a classic ‘street food’ – are accounting for 7-8% of sales, with fillings such as Cajun-style pulled beef brisket, salad & mayo, which sells at £8.50. “There’s a big move towards the US

flavours, like Cajun, Creole, Texan and BBQ,” says Follas. “Tesco and Waitrose are already on it. Tesco are doing a [Texan] beef brisket readymeal. With Cajun, I’d make my own dry rub, but there’s no reason a deli Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

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speciality & fine food fair couldn’t buy in a good quality rub. The same with rack-of-ribs – a deli might not sell ribs, but it could sell the sauce to go with them.” Like Baker, Follas is seeing a shift towards a more casual style of eating based on quality ingredients, preferably with strong local provenance – or even foraged from coast and countryside. (The winner of last year’s British Street Food Awards, Cafe Mor, took the award for its hand-made flatbreads, filled with seafood foraged from the Pembrokeshire shoreline.) “The spend per head at The Wild Garlic has actually increased this year but people are coming less often – it’s more for birthdays and special occasions,” says Follas. “There’s a jump away from what we’re doing at Beaminster to what we’re doing at Chesil Beach Café – so thankfully we are reasonable on-trend.” He says this shift is one traditional delis cannot afford to ignore. “I think delis are kind of stuck in a rut. In New Zealand, even 15 years ago they were ahead of what I see here now. “If you go into any deli, you’ll see a lot of the same kind of products, presumably because they’re all buying from the same three or four wholesalers. What [consumers] are looking for is less of the packaged

goods, so delis need to be thinking about how they can introduce more fresh ingredients.” One good example, he says, is samphire, which has been on sale in Waitrose this year at £1.99 for 90g. “I think there’s a place for delis to have a small section of fresh produce like that. The reality is that the shelflife is not all that bad – you can probably get a week on samphire

knee and her food is full of the Indian, African, European and Chinese influences that meet to form Mauritius’s ‘fusion’ cuisine. But Southampton-born Permalloo also looks to incorporate as much British produce as possible in the meals she prepares for private dining clients or at cookery demos. ”Obviously there are things we can’t produce here,” she says, “like really good tropical fruits – and everyone knows my passion for mangoes – but we can use the ingredients we do have.

Dhruv Baker: ‘At home, people are going to be doing more and more adventurous cooking’❜

– and it you package it up in 100g bundles it will sell. People spend a serious amount of money buying ingredients like that.” This year’s MasterChef winner, Shelina Permalloo, learned to cook at her Mauritian mother’s

“I love to use red bream and red snapper. They are basically tropical fish, so I have been using red mullet, which is another quite oily fish that takes hot spices well.” Few delis or farm shops sell fresh fish, but that doesn’t mean they can’t provide many of the core ingredients of Mauritian cuisine, which Permalloo says is “very frugal, and about making the most of storecupboard ingredients”. “One of the dishes I’ll make at the Speciality & Fine Food Fair is Dal

Poori, which is a sort of flatbread that I’ll do with a butterbean curry and a coconut chutney. It’s something you’ll find on the streets of Mauritius. Dal Poori is made with yellow split peas, which have a long shelf life, and I use tinned butterbeans – when my plan to soak dried beans overnight fails.” Permalloo may be a major fan of mangoes but she’s not a food snob. “Alfonso mango is a beautiful product but there’s no harm in using tinned or frozen purée. Boiron (www. boironfreres.com) specialises in really good purées.” She also uses a lot of wholefoods and pulses, like black lentils, quinoa, bulgar wheat and farro, and says: “I’d never buy those in supermarkets, because the quality isn’t as good.” That’s a positive for delis, but Permalloo says she tends to shop in wholefood shops or specialist Asian stores, and she says it’s “a challenge” for traditional delis to persuade shoppers to look there for either fresh or dried ingredients for world cuisine. “I also think people can be quite nervous about delis, particularly if you don’t know what you want, so it’s difficult to get people to explore them. And there’s also a fear that they are going to be expensive.” One answer for delis might be to hook up with other local specialist shops – a butcher, fishmonger and a

e know what you’re thinking. Just what makes this pork crackling so awfully posh? Excellent question. The makers only use pork rinds from the highest quality, outdoor bred pigs, which are handfried in small batches. As they cool down, they are lightly sprinkled with organic Anglesey sea salt and absolutely nothing else. Any pieces that don’t meet the impeccable standards of the quality control experts are swiftly discarded. The lucky ones that do make the cut are carefully placed into the charming little bags. That is what makes this pork crackling the very best that money can buy.

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Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

September 2012 路 Vol.13 Issue 8

speciality & fine food fair fruit & veg shop, for example – and recommend each other for different ingredients. “There’s no harm in knowing that someone can’t buy everything they need in one shop. I have three or four shops I visit every week. I’ll buy my milk and butter from the supermarket but I’d never buy coriander from a supermarket because I can get better quality, with its stalks and roots, from a specialist.” Dhruv Baker believes consumers are looking further afield for new ingredients and styles, breaking the traditional boundaries of, say, Italian or French cuisine. At the same time they’re tapping deeper into national styles. “Talking about ‘Chinese’ food is like talking about ‘Indian’ food – these are huge countries with specific regional cuisines. “At home, people are going to be doing more and more adventurous cooking, and they’ll probably be looking in the Asian supermarkets for ingredients.” Again, he says this is something delis could respond to, by sourcing and grouping together ingredients for specific cuisines, such a good palm sugar, kaffir lime leaves or a carefully selected group of spices. And they can still find ways to beat the supermarkets, despite the acres of space given to ethnic

‘Make your food more accessible’

Shelina Permalloo: ‘I’d never buy wholefoods in supermarkets because the quality isn’t as good’ food sections in the multiples. “Delis could actually adapt quite quickly,” he says. “They just need to ask their customers what they’d like to see in store. The fact that those people are buying from a deli, rather than a supermarket, suggests they’re already interested.” • Shelina Permalloo will present ‘Mauritian street food’ in the Fine Food Forum at 2.45pm on Monday September 3. Mat Follas talks about ‘The realities of sourcing sustainable seafood’ at 2.45pm on Tuesday September 4. Dhruv Baker will be in the Fine Food Forum at 12.15pm on Monday September 3.

Delis are doing “a fantastic job” food. But products have got to bringing unusual foods into our be realistic, not something they everyday lives but could do more dabble with once and then never to make their food accessible, use again, because that’s not according to Irish TV chef and sustainable.” food writer Catherine Fulvio. Born in Ireland but married to Fulvio, who also runs a Sicilian, Fulvio has written books Ballyknocken Cookery School in and presented TV series on Italian Co Wicklow, says stores need to cooking. She says bottarga – the give more time to tastings and salted pressed roe of tuna or grey producer demos to help shoppers mullet – is one Sicilian speciality better understand deli that could catch on in specialities. the British Isles, but it She has noticed a hasn’t captured the “major trend” towards imagination because cooking from scratch people here haven’t but says retailers have been shown how to use to make it easier for it. “It’s a huge delicacy people by stocking – very intense, and “realistic” ingredients beautiful sprinkled on and showing shoppers pasta. But even in Italy Catherine Fulvio how to use them. it’s not an everyday “We have a lovely Irish food, and they’d be doing tastings. seaweed company, Algaran “You want to have a few (www.seaweedproducts.ie), that show-stoppers that will make has taken organic seaweed and people go, ‘Holy Moly! What’s made infused dressings, an olive that?’ But you’ll need to do demos oil & dukkah mix and roasted to get your customers into it. It has nut & seaweed merinques. So to be sold to them.” they’ve turned it into a number of • Catherine Fulvio presents ‘The Best of recognisable products. Irish Artisan Fayre’ in the Fine Food Forum “In these recessionary times, at 1.30pm on Tuesday September 4. people are still buying more local

Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

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&Wilder Popcorn.................................... 010 1050 AC, S.L......................................... 855 1Chef4u................................................ 055 Aceite Unicos.......................................... 855 Aceites Ablitense.................................... 855 Adams & Harlow.................................... 776 Agenzia Di Promozione Economica Della Toscana........................................... 530, 630 Agnes Rose.......................................... 737 Aisy Berjaya Company............................ 188 Aix & terra.............................................. 821 Alan Nuttall............................................ 557 AlArd Palestinian Agri-Products............... 733 Algaran Seaweed.................................... 615 ALPepper.............................................. 1119 Altiplans................................................. 044 Amelia Rope Chocolate................................279 Anthony Rowcliffe & Son................. 779 Apollon Foods (Globo Company)............ 967 Apulia Blend T/A The Olive Oil Company............... 224 Aquitaine Specialites............................... 713 Arganic................................................... 056 AriZona/Big Shotz................................... 609 Artisan Biscuits....................................... 560 Atkins and Potts............................... 1108 Avlaki Superb Organic Olive Oils..... 245 Awfully Posh Pork Crackling................. 1159 Azienda Agricola Chierentana................. 530 Azienda Agricola Il Forbiciaio.................. 630 Azienda Agricola San Pietro A Pettine..... 229 Bakery Flora.......................................... 1038 Ballancourt........................................ 1048 Baravelli’s............................................ 284 Barry Callebaut................... CHOC MASTERS

Belvoir Fruit Farms............................. 648 Beneoliva.............................................. 1182 Bennett Opie.......................................... 883 Berry Good........................................ 1127 BerryB..................................................... 520 Bespoke Foods.................................... 904 Bessant & Drury’s............................... 546 Best Imports........................................... 945 Bibijis...................................................... 039 Biddenden Vineyards.............................. 543 Bio Green Dairy...................................... 335 Biscotti di Debora................................... 060 Biscottificio Belli.................................... 1164 Blanche - The Marzipan Bonbonnière..... 040 Bloom Teas.......................................... 247 Boddington’s Berries......................... 502 Boiromar................................................. 940 Bon Bon’s .............................................. 876 Bonny Confectionary......................... 723 Bookham Fine Foods............................. 1079 Bord Bia (Irish Food Board) London.613, 615 Born To Be Yummy............................. 129 Bramble Foods........................................ 759 Bramley and Gage.............................. 743 Breckland Orchard.................................. 931 Bretagne Excellence................................ 707 Brown Bag Crisps................................... 644 Burtree Puddings...........................................643 Bysel....................................................... 246 Calico Cottage...................................... 1046 California Rancher.............................. 649 Cambrook Foods................................ 064 Cambus O’May Cheese Company.......... 520 Camera di Commercio di Terni................ 420 Campbells Shortbread............................ 960

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Who’s at Olympia this year?

Guild of Fine Food members shown in bold type

speciality & fine food fair S U P LI E P

Candiasoil............................................ 081 Cartmel Sticky Toffee Pudding Co........... 637 Caspian Caviar........................................ 348 Catalonia Gourmet................................. 855 Cawston Vale....................................... 1014 CHA Teas................................................ 057 Chancham.............................................. 004 Chapman’s Finest Fishcakes........... 1140 Cheese Cellar....................................... 675 Cheeseworks.......................................... 339 Chegworth Valley Juices....................... 1146 Chi Drinks............................................. 1071 Chia Bia.................................................. 615 Choc Chick Raw Chocolates................... 183 Chocanana............................................. 026 Chococru................................................ 298 Chocolat Frey......................................... 372 Choi Time Teas.................................. 1156 Cibosano......................................402, 406 Classic Fine Foods / Valrhona.................. 676 Clonakilty Blackpudding Co.................... 615 Cnwd..................................................... 723 Cochrane Cottage.................................. 612 Cocinavar............................................. 1074 Cocoa Loco............................................ 283 Cocoa Magic.......................................... 181 Cocofina............................................... 1085 Coffee And Cream................................. 909 CoffeeLate.............................................. 296 Coln Valley........................................... 755 Communauté de Communes Sud Pays Basque..................................... 713 Compass Spirits..................................... 230 Comptoir du Cacao............................... 473 Consett Popcorn Company..................... 639

Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

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speciality & fine food fair Cook Trading....................................... 503 Cooleeney Farm..................................... 615 Corné Port-Royal Chocolatier.................. 276 Corte Donda.......................................... 212 Cortijo Suerte Alta................................. 855 Cotswold Fayre.......................... 323, 430 Cottage Delight................................. 671 Creighton’s Chocolaterie........................ 385 Creme D’Or............................................ 479 Crush Food............................................ 008 CSY Retail Systems.............................. 1070 Cullisse Highland Rapeseed Oil....... 612 Cumbria Tourism........................... 637, 737 Cupboard Love.................................... 1129 D.O.P. Dehesa de Extremadura............... 855 Dama de Elaia........................................ 855 Danoor................................................... 530 Danzar Foods.......................................... 316 Dean’s (Mary Steele)......................... 620 Delicioso UK....................................... 468 Deliwraps............................................... 796 Denhay Farms......................................... 755 Desideri & Figi......................................... 530 Devon Cottage Organic Fudge............... 053 Dibal UK................................................. 260 Dimabel.................................................. 368 Dip Nation.......................................... 520 Discover the Origin................................ 677 Diversi Foods......................................... 360 Divine Chocolate.................................... 474 Divine Deli Supplies............................... 1087 Dolcemente........................................... 143 DolceVita Agro Pontino Import.............. 042

New to the show: Lushice

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Sorbet maker Lushice is probably the youngest exhibitor at the Speciality & Fine Food Fair. So new, in fact, that it hasn’t yet sold any sorbets. However, founder Laura Lewis hopes that SFFF will provide a stepping stone to bagging her first order, and she has got her sights set high. “Everything has been building up to this fair. It was recommended to me as the best trade food fair to showcase a new product,” she says. “I am hoping the idea of a cocktail sorbet for grown-ups will appeal to delis, speciality stores such as Harvey Nichols or one of the supermarket chains.” Aimed at the adult market, each of the four cocktail sorbets contains a splash of either

rum or tequila. “I think my products add a little naughtiness to the sorbet market,” says Lewis. “People usually see sorbets as a healthy alternative to ice cream, but my cocktail flavours offer grown-ups a different way to enjoy their sorbet.” She doesn’t think there is anything comparable on the market. “There’s Bailey’s ice cream, and Gü does a summer pudding with Pimm’s, but I’ve not seen any cocktail sorbets.” It has taken Lewis two years to get the products ready for market. A secondary school teacher by day, Lewis came up with the idea when playing with her ice cream maker one evening. “I started experimenting with some fresh fruit purées and a little booze. Satisfied that I had captured the flavour of the pina colada cocktail in a sorbet, I then went on to produce mojito, strawberry daiquiri and margarita.” If, as Lewis hopes, the show does generate interest from buyers, she already has a manufacturer lined up to make the sorbets in commercial quantities. “I initially started making them myself,” she says, “but although my ice cream maker’s good, it’s not that good.” Lushice cocktail sorbets have an RRP of £1.69 for 100ml and £4.45 for 500ml. www.lushicesorbet.com

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speciality & fine food fair Nutritious and delicious Just like virtually every other gluten-free producer out there, Perkier Foods claims to make gluten-free foods that taste as good as mainstream foods. But where Perkier stands out is that it is equally concerned with making sure its gluten-free products are also comparable in terms of their nutritional value. “Gluten-free diets are often lacking in B vitamins and other essential nutrients,” says Ann Perkier, who co-founded the business with partner Steve earlier this year and was diagnosed as gluten intolerant in 2009. “Often gluten-free food is not that good for you. This is partly because by law mainstream breads and cereals have to be fortified with, for example, folic acid. This doesn’t apply to gluten-free. Gluten-free brown breads are often just white loaves coloured with treacle!” She says Perkier Foods is determined to bring great nutrition to the gluten-free market, and exhibiting at SFFF is one of the company’s first steps towards realising this ambition. “SFFF is fantastic in terms of the range of buyers who attend; there are buyers from hotel chains, foodservice operators and retailers.” Perkier Foods is targeting those eating occasions that are most difficult for food intolerance sufferers: breakfast, lunch and treats. Its gluten-free breakfast offering is a

range of porridges, some oat-free (made with millet and buckwheat) and some made with gluten-free oats. Their point of difference, says Perkier, is that they all have interesting flavour combinations, from apple, cinnamon & raisin, to fruity berry and gingerbread & raisin. Addressing the lunchtime occasion, the company’s breads contain less than five per cent fat, which Perkier says is unusual for the market. Its seeded multigrain loaf is made with potato flour, tapioca, corn flour, rice bran, millet, buckwheat and an insoluble fibre. By way of gluten-free treats, Perkier Foods makes chocolate brownies, rocky road and tiffin with popping candy. www.perkier.co.uk

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Dorset Farms......................................... 755 Doultchi Choclatier................................ 192 Dr. Oats.................................................. 020 Duchess Oil......................................... 070 Elena’s Gluten Free Way....................... 1047 Elsinore Foods....................................... 1039 Embutidos Domingo Ortiz Moreno......... 855 Emmett’s of Peasenhall.......................... 550 Empire Foodbrokers............................... 610 F.Lli Lombardi.......................................... 530 Farrah’s of Harrogate............................. 340 Farrington Oils.................................. 1135 Fattoria il Palagiaccio............................. 630 Ferdia Fine Foods.................................... 613 Ferrero Food UK................................... 1172 FIAB Exterior.......................................... 855 field fare............................................. 933 Filippetto’s Italian Food Importer............ 502 Findlater’s Fine Foods....................... 612 Fine Food Digest................................. 910 Fivemiletown Creamery................................ 357 Flora Tea Company UK....................... 145 Foie Gras Direct...................................... 071 Folkingtons Juices............................. 434 Foodswise Network.............................. 1010 France Aimentaire.................................. 713 France Gourmet.................................. 701 Frank’s Luxury Biscuits............................ 239 Frantoio Suatoni.................................... 420 Fromagerie Jacquin................................ 713 Fromagerie Rouzaire............................... 713 Fruidoraix............................................... 713 Fudge Kitchen..................................... 159 Gadsby................................................ 669

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speciality & fine food fair Galeta.................................................... 280 GB Artesanos Gastronomicos.................. 855 Gelato Mio............................................ 241 Giacobazzi UK........................................ 839 Gilchesters Organics......................... 740 Ginger Bakers........................................ 737 Giuliano Tartufi.................................... 1044 Gleeka................................................... 167 Glenfinlas Coffee................................... 266 Go Coco.............................................. 1112 Godminster Vintage......................... 743 Goldcraft............................................... 419 Good Heavens!...................................... 638 Grace & Home........................................ 002 Grand Marcher...................................... 370 Great Glen Game............................... 009 Green Pastures (Donegal)....................... 615 Greengold........................................... 001 Grumpy Mule Distinctive Coffees.. 760 Guild of Fine Food.............................. 910 HACCP-UK................................................... 141 Hadley’s Dairy.................................... 446 Hawkshead Relish............................. 637 HB Ingredients...............CHOC MASTERS Heart Distribution / A F Blakemore & Son....................................................... 225 Heart Of England Fine Foods................. 444 HF Chocolates....................................... 686 Hider Food Imports............................ 930 Higher Nature......................................... 419 Hiromi Stone...................................... 058 Home Chocolate Factory........................ 585 Hope and Greenwood........................... 580 House of Dorchester......................... 386

•NEW•

House Of Sarunds............................... 670 Hungarian Investment & Trade Agency... 470 Hydropac............................................... 412 I dolci di Orvieto.................................... 420 I Love Italia............................................ 888 IBPM/Boosh Produce Yom Innovations.... 901 IBSA (Industrias Del Bierzo).................. 1011 Idilio Origins.......................................... 286 Il Gelato................................................. 214 Imaginative Cuisine................................. 117 Inaudi Clemente & C.............................. 823 inSpiral Visionary Products...................... 270 Inverawe Smokehouses.................... 620 Island Bakery Organics............................ 520 Isle Of Man Creamery........................ 401 James Chocolates............................... 574 James White Drinks........................... 554 JME Group............................................. 784 Joe & Seph’s Gourmet Popcorn........ 445 Joe’s Tea Company................................ 1140 Jules Destrooper..................................... 269 Just Crackers......................................... 019 Kalamea Foods....................................... 332 Kandula Tea Company..................... 1166 Karimix UK.......................................... 925 Keith Spicer............................................ 353 Kent’s Kitchen......................................... 438 Keogh’s Irish Potato Crisps..................... 615 Keylink............................CHOC MASTERS Kinsale Gourmet.................................... 139 Kitchen Garden Foods....................... 871 Klerum.................................................... 210 Kokonoir Chocolates.............................. 723 Koppert Cress......................................... 301

Introducing 4 unique culinary creations to the range of over 100 artisan preserves, launching at the Speciality & Fine Food Fair.

Kwadaa................................................. 158 La Fabbrica del Panforte......................... 630 La Favorita Live..................................... 1120 La Fromagerie..................................... 153 La Mare Wine Estate.............................. 971 La Panzanella......................................... 913 La Tua Pasta........................................... 242 Lactaçores.............................................. 685 L’ail Olive............................................ 259 Lakeland Computers......................... 770 Lakenham Creamery......................... 456 Landaluz................................................ 855 Largo Foods........................................... 615 Lauden Chocolate................................... 275 Laverstoke Park Farm...................... 1090 Le Dolcezze di Nanni............................. 630 Le Langhe............................................... 825 Le Mesurier’s......................................... 1138 Les Chevaliers D’Argouges...................... 821 Lewis & Cooper...................................... 534 Lick The Spoon....................................... 186 Link Print & Packaging............................ 975 Linkshelving........................................ 531 Little Doone Foods............................. 520 Little Melton Gourmet Yogurt................. 451 Little Turban............................................ 939 Little’s..................................................... 411 Loch Duart........................................... 520 Lodge Farm Kitchen................................ 540 Lombardi Claudio................................... 630 Long Clawson Dairy................................ 769 L’Orchidee Specials................................. 238 Lucy’s Dressings..................................... 052 LuLin Teas........................................... 538

Artisan regional produce from our Italian partners delivered next day

Visit us on Stand No. 637 FREE DELIVERY to UK mainland for orders over £150

WWW.VALLEBONA.CO.UK

Tel: 020 8944 5665

Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

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5 ly. 12 p r £ ap ve ns s o tio er di rd on lo c al s & on rm e UK . T d AT an V nl e ai ud m xcl To s e e ic Pr

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Retail Display Wooden Stand (Includes Wooden Trays)

Small Wicker Jar Tray

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Wooden Retail Display Boxes

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YOUR ONE-STOP SHOP FOR NEXT DAY GIFT PACKAGING & RETAIL DISPLAY. Freephone 08000 85 85 95 | sales@wbc.co.uk | wbc.co.uk 62

September 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 8

speciality & fine food fair New to the show: Nim’s Fruit Crisps

Feeling fruity

Nim’s has been going since 2010 and its airdried fruit crisps are already sold nationwide in outlets ranging from Planet Organic to a university in Scotland, as well as a Cumbrian events catering company and farm shops, hotels, schools and independents in and around London and the M25. Nevertheless, owner Nimisha Raja still believes there is value in exhibiting at SFFF. “The fair has been recommended by some of our stockists,” she says. “My main aim over the past few months has been to test the supply chain. Having done that successfully, we have been listed by some large distributors such as Cotswold Fayre, Suma and Tree of Life. The idea is to make contact with more distributors and give retailers the chance to sample Nim's and inform them of distribution.” Nim’s is also using the show as the launchpad for new packaging, a children’s range and a single flavours range. The crisps, which are fat-free, high in fibre, high in vitamin C and count as one of your fivea-day, were originally conceived as a healthy snack for children. However, over the past couple of years, Raja reports that they have also attracted a following among mums and dads, slimmers and teenagers. With this in mind, she has decided to make

the crisps more tailored to these audiences. Currently, the crisps come in five mixed flavours: apple & strawberry, pineapple & mango, apple & kiwi, orange & melon and pear & kiwi. At SFFF, Nim’s is introducing singleflavours – most likely apple, pear, pineapple and orange – and a dedicated children’s range, also consisting of single flavours. “Feedback from parents is that children prefer single flavours,” she says. Nim’s is also treating the packs to a new look and reducing the size of the bags, as Raja says it “doesn’t work for airlines and puts people off buying for children as it looks too big for them.” www.nimsfruitcrisps.com

Luscombe Organic Drinks................. 121 Lushice................................................... 023 Lyme Bay Winery................................ 755 Madame Spice........................................ 022 Maha Partnership................................... 155 Mahan Foods.......................................... 127 Mainland Distribution............................. 942 Maison Bruyere...................................... 707 Man Meat Fire........................................ 147 Martellato............................................... 371 Mathot-SOFRA........................................ 261 Maxim’s de Paris..................................... 356 Maynard House Orchards Apple Juice... 1170 McLaren’s Pure & Natural........................ 448 Mei Wei................................................ 547 Milky Mooka.......................................... 012 Mindi’s Sauces........................................ 835 Miproduce............................................ 1153 More? The Artisan Bakery................ 637 Mouthfull Food Company....................... 541 Mr Trotter.......................................... 1059 Ms Cupcake........................................... 929 Mummy’s Yummies......................... 1137 Muroise Et Compagnie........................... 713 My Cup of Tea UK.................................. 213 National Association For The Specialty Food Trade.............................................. 256 New English Teas.................................. 1016 New York Delhi....................................... 240 Nicola Adamo...................................... 1145 Nim’s Fruit Crisps.................................... 951 NISI’S Artisan Bakery............................... 133 Nizami Foods.......................................... 062 Noble Chocolates................................... 272

RetailReady RetailReady is a two day course that will steer you through the minefield of opening and running a fine food store. The course is designed to equip managers of prospective, new or developing delis and farm shops with the business essentials of fine food and drink retailing. The next course takes place on October 9-10 2012. Visit www.finefoodworld.co.uk/retailready for more details and an application form. Call us to find out more on 01963 824464.

No one should even ❝ consider entering any form of fine food retail without completing the Retail Ready course at The Guild of Fine Food. The two day course is brilliantly structured offering advice on every aspect of the business from insider experts and successful retailers. It gave me insight I was lacking, to feel fully confident about getting started.

❞

Matthew Drennan, former editor of delicious. and aspiring deli owner

Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

G N C RE O A AT W L L O FO FF R ER S

For a real Farmhouse cheese made in the New Forest, Hampshire. Makers of Lyburn Gold, Stoney Cross and Old Winchester.

DELIVERING GREAT VALUE PRODUCTS FROM THE EVERYDAY TO THE EXCEPTIONAL w w w. l e f k t r o . c o . u k

E: sales@lef ktro.co.uk T: 01460 242 588

Tel: 01794 399982

L E F K T R O U K LT D

Come home to a real soup this winter Made with produce from our Award-Winning Organic Devon Farm

Flavour Collections

from The Organic Blending Co

Choose from 5 great collections inspired by great Scottish heroes. Ideal for Christmas, dinner parties and any other gift occasions. from Trade Price £6.99 | Retail Price £9.99 www.organicblending.com 64

September 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 8

Exciting Winter Range Now Available www.rodandbens.com Tel: 01392 833833 Email: roddy@rodandbens.com

R&B Fine Food Digest Advert - Winter 2012.indd 1

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speciality & fine food fair Norfolk Cordial....................................... 003 Norfolk Punch......................................... 552 Nudo.................................................... 1045 Ocean Blue Candy................................ 1180 Odysea................................................. 917 Old School Thai...................................... 021 Olio e Olive............................................. 420 Olives Et Al.......................................... 645 Olus Tecnologia...................................... 855 On The Pulse........................................ 1144 Onizz...................................................... 921 Ooomeringues........................................ 723 Origin Coffee.......................................... 771 Ouse Valley ......................................... 329 Palatum Feinkost.................................. 1121 Pandora Bell........................................... 613 Parkers Packaging............................. 934 Paxton & Whitfield............................. 743 PCB chocolate decoration....................... 676 Pelit Cikolata ve Gida.............................. 583 Pentic.................................................... 937 Pepper & Stew.................................... 036 Perkier Foods.......................................... 013 Perry Court Farm.................................. 1134 Pimhill Organic Farm......................... 544 Pink’s Organics.................................... 054 Pipers Crisps........................................ 634 Planetequitable....................................... 271 Popkakery............................................... 775 Potted Game Company.......................... 027 Potts Partnership................................... 1144 Prestat.................................................... 380 Pride In Food........................................ 1176 Primera Technology Europe..................... 217

Procanar................................................. 821 Products from Spain............................. 1017 Prunotto Mariangela Organic Farm....... 1168 Quick Crepes.......................................... 083 R H Packaging........................................ 307 Raging Bull Meats................................ 1133 RayGray Snacks.................................... 1059 RB Distribution........................................ 253 Reid’s of Caithness.................................. 620 Retail Computer Solutions............. 1029 Revisan Ibericos...................................... 855 Rice Bran Products............................. 111 RJF Farhi................................................. 475 Rococo Chocolates................................. 375 Rod & Bens.......................................... 337 RRA Porin.............................................. 570 Rupert Blamire Ceramics......................... 043 Rural Foodies...................................... 723 Saladworx............................................... 612 Salcombe Dairy (UK).......................... 743 Salinity UK............................................ 1051 Salumi Curti............................................ 420 Samosaco............................................... 723 Samways Fine Food Distribution..... 772 Sapatafora Formaggi............................ 1143 SAS PAM................................................ 707 Savoury & Sweet..................................... 833 Scotland Food & Drink............520, 612, 620 Scratch Meals....................................... 1067 Scrumshus Granola............................ 119 Seafisk.................................................. 1055 Seasoned Pioneers........................... 1186 Seggiano.............................................. 980 Serious Pig............................................ 1114

Sheep Print............................................. 338 Shire Foods of Norfolk...................... 979 Shortbread House of Edinburgh...... 612 Shropshire Granola................................. 083 Silagum.................................................. 154 Simple Simon’s Perfect Pies..................... 620 Simply Ice Cream.............................. 1152 Simply Rose............................................ 025 Simply Tea.............................................. 082 Simplyaddchilli........................................ 041 Siocledi Sarah Bunton Chocolates.. 723 Slovene Food.......................................... 313 Smashbangwallop................................... 179 Smiths Coffee Company....................... 1008 Snowdonia Cheese............................. 625 Society of Food Hygiene & Technology... 350 Solleys Farms Ice Cream........................ 1076 Sopexa....................................707, 713, 821 South Coast Systems......................... 959 Speciality Breads..................................... 985 Speciality Food Traders............................ 600 Spencerfield Spirit Company........... 612 Spicentice......................................... 1040 Staeger Clear Packaging......................... 065 Stag Bakeries..................................... 612 Stokes Sauces (Essfoods).................. 879 Subhi Jabri & Sons.................................. 506 Suhaav.................................................... 165 Summer Isles Foods...................... 612 Sundowner Foods.............................. 024 Taifas...................................................... 355 Tamar Labels.......................................... 755 Tanara Giancarlo..................................... 825 Taste of the West....................743, 748, 755

Taylor Davis EXPERTISE IN CONTAINERS

‘suppliers of packaging to the food trade’

Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

S Orefrigerant R B A - F R Epads EZE Sorba-Freeze Ltd, Unit 5, Girdleness Trading Estate, Girdleness Road, Aberdeen AB1 8DG, Scotland Tel 01224 894417 Email info@sorbafreeze.com www.sorbafreeze.com

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ful of flavour, ful of goodness, ful for longer! 4 other tasteful flavours available, email jonathan@tastefulfood.co.uk for more information

September 2012 路 Vol.13 Issue 8

The Miniature Bakery is a specialist craft bakery based in Batley, West Yorkshire. Where we lovingly create hand baked biscuits using only the finest natural quality ingredients. The latest addition to our range is our Chocolate Biscuit Selection, featuring a selection of all our favourites, this is the perfect introduction to our range, combining the textures and flavours of bake and chocolate. From Meringues to Viennese, our Chocolate Biscuit Selection has been shortlisted and in the final for the The Grocer Food & Drink Awards 2012, in the best new product category, winners announced in September 2012.

Only small in size, but big on taste.

tim@theminiaturebakery.com www.theminiaturebakery.com | www.twitter.com/TMB_Batley M 07969 345342 | T 01924 359900

speciality & fine food fair New to the show: Arganic

Out of Africa

Everyone attending SFFF will have heard of olive and rapeseed oil, but what about argan oil? Believed to be one of the rarest oils in the world, argan oil is a nutty oil made in Morocco from the nuts of the argan tree – a relation of the olive but with a flavour of its own. At SFFF, new start-up Arganic will be inviting buyers to sample argan oil and learn more about why the oil is so rare and expensive and how it can be used in cooking. The company’s founder Dana Elemora became intrigued by argan oil when a family friend mentioned she couldn’t get hold of it in the UK. A fluent Arabic speaker, Elemora arranged a trip to Morocco to visit ten recommended producers, and quickly realised that not all argan oils were equal. “I was shocked at some of the practices I encountered – people asking me to test the oil with my finger; issues with traceability,” she recalls. Just as Elemora was about to return to the UK she was persuaded to visit one last producer, Sidi Yassine. “I knew straight away this was the producer for me,” says Elemora. “They had limited production, but weren’t concerned with being the biggest, only the best.” Under the sourcing arrangement, which has been in place six months, Sidi Yassine

bottles the oil and Arganic labels and distributes it. So far, there are only two stockists of Arganic oil: Partridges and The Organic Grocer, but this doesn’t concern Elemora in the slightest. “I’m not rushing into anything,” she says. “I’m also supplying five cosmetic companies with argan oil which is much easier, and I’m prepared for the food side of the business to take longer to build up.” She hopes, however, that exhibiting at SFFF will kick-start the process by giving her access to the right people. “I considered lots of shows and felt that SFFF was the right show to provide exposure to a wide range of people. Ultimately I want lots of shops to take me on – not just in London but throughout the UK.” www.myarganic.co.uk

Taylor Davis............................................. 801 TCD Foods...................................................1037 Tea Nation.......................................... 1069 Tea Time Express..................................... 615 Teapigs................................................. 841 Tentazioni............................................... 955 Terra Rossa........................................ 1117 The Anglesey Sea Salt Company .... 625 The Artisan Bakery................................ 1160 The Artisan Smokehouse........................ 051 The Bay Tree Food Company............ 875 The Burren Smokehouse................... 613 The Cocoa Bean Company..................... 572 The Condiment Company....................... 640 The Cornish Jute Bag Company.............. 334 The Country Victualler....................... 551 The Devon Cream Company............. 216 The Dip Society....................................... 017 The Fabulous Vodka Company................ 156 The Fine Cheese Co................................ 560 The Fine Confectionery Company... 379 The Fine Seafood Co.............................. 333 The French Dressing Company......... 137 The Fresh Pasta Company............... 1032 The Gourmet Chocolate Pizza Co..... 185 The Green & Blue Veda........................... 707 The Holywell Water Company................. 109 The INKReadible Label Company... 1148 The Jelly Bean Factory............................. 615 The London Tea Company...................... 308 The Ludlow Nut Co................................ 439 The Metropolitan Tea Company.............. 234 The Mushroom Garden........................... 723 The Original Candy Co..................... 1025

Come and taste James Chocolates at the Speciality & Fine Food Fair, see us at stand 574

Call 01749 831330 and quote FFD09 for our new brochure and free samples Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

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HACCP and Food Safety Training Make sure you are up to speed with food safety issues as your company grows. Our specialist courses will also help you improve your product labelling and manage allergens.

Got a group of 5 or more to train? Contact us for an in-house quote. September 7th 10th - 13th 17th - 18th 19th 19 - 20th

October

Legal Labelling Level 4 Award in HACCP Auditing Skills Level 2 Award in HACCP Level 3 Award in HACCP

RECOMMENDED FOR HACCP TEAM MEMBERS

24th - 28th

Level 4 Award in Food Safety

1st - 3rd

Level 3 Award in Food Safety

4th 8th - 11th 15th

Food Information Regulations Level 4 Award in HACCP Managing Food Allergens

ALSO ONLINE for just 拢125 + VAT

All the above courses will take place in Skipton, North Yorkshire.

Visit our website at www.vwa.co.uk for further dates. Call us in 01756 700802 or email claire.lennon@vwa.co.uk to book.

www.vwa.co.uk

September 2012 路 Vol.13 Issue 8

Ancient Recipes makes quality savoury and sweet preserves for use in the home and by discerning caterers. New onto the market for 2012, our range is exceptional in both quality and taste. Using old fashioned open pan cooking methods, Ancient Recipes produce an excellent array of exquisite preserves.

For more information please contact: tel: +44 (0)1461 337 239 fax: +44 (0)1461 338 436 email: info@ancient-recipes.co.uk web: www.ancient-recipes.co.uk Ancient Recipes, PO Box 17, Gretna, Dumfriesshire, DG16 5YL

speciality & fine food fair New to the show: Milky Mooka

Carrot milk divides opinion Last year, Jason Neish attended SFFF as a visitor. Since then, he’s created a new flavoured milk brand that received a commendation at the private label show PLMA in Amsterdam, and this year, is returning to SFFF as an exhibitor. “Our product usually arouses a lot of interest when people see it, and as SFFF concentrates all the buyers from the industry in one place at the same time, it seemed to be the right forum for introducing Milky Mooka to the trade,” says Neish. He describes the carrot-flavoured milk drink as “a bit of a Marmite”, so it will be interesting to see how Milka Mooka goes down at SFFF. There are plenty of reasons to love Milky Mooka, he says. It contains 67 per cent of the RDA (recommended daily amount) of vitamin A, is free from artificial preservatives, and is naturally sweetened. “Most of the sugar comes from the carrots and milk, plus a little bit of agave syrup,” explains Neish. He says the drink’s ‘no junk’ credentials, along with its very long shelf life, are what sets it apart from the handful of flavoured milk drinks on the UK market. “They use refined sugar, whereas all our ingredients are natural.” He hopes that the drink’s natural positioning will win over health conscious

individuals and mums. “From research we know there’s not always a great selection of healthy drinks for children. The drink is also really good for breastfeeding mums,” he adds. Milky Mooka is made by Austrian contract manufacturer, Pinzgau Milch, as Neish couldn’t find a UK producer with the capability to produce the drink, probably because the market for UHT milk is much smaller in the UK than on the Continent, where UHT milk outsells fresh milk. Milky Mooka has an RRP of £1.49 for 250ml. www.milkymooka.co.uk

The Original Drinks & Food Co............... 314 The Patchwork Traditional Food Co.625 The Puddin Company............................. 032 The Sea Spice Company......................... 520 The Select Lincolnshire & Tastes of Lincolnshire Partnership.......................... 650 The Tracklement Co............................ 755 The Very Best Food Group................ 139 The Village Workshop........................... 1141 The Walnut Tree..................................... 163 The Yorkshire Provender................... 433 Thomas Export........................................ 713 Thunder Toffee Vodka............................. 152 Thursday Cottage............................... 969 Tiana Fair Trade Organics........................ 320 Timmy’s Pies........................................... 029 Tobago House of Assembly..................... 783 Tognini Tartufi......................................... 420 Tom’s Pies............................................... 755 Town and Country Fine Foods................. 486 Treflach Farm........................................ 1155 Tregothnan........................................... 1075 Trotters Independent Condiments........... 149 TruffleHunter....................................... 346 Truly Irish Country Foods........................ 615 UK Chocolate Academy.......................... 586 Uncle Roy’s Comestible Concoctions...... 612 Unique Chocolate............................... 190 UPF Coufidou......................................... 713 Urban Fresh Food.................................903A Vallebona................................................ 601 Valnerina Tartufi...................................... 420 Valrhona ................................................ 676

Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

31474 SPI Tean India Advert Outlines.indd 1

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House of Dorchester chocolates are made from the world’s finest ingredients by the world’s finest chocolatiers right here in Britain

Visit us at the Speciality & Fine Food Fair on stand 386 @hodchocolates

www.hodchoc.com

www.facebook.com/houseofdorchesterchocolates

e on t th e t us a Fin ep sit 38 & S Vi d 4 ity -4th l an ia r 2 st ec Fai Sp od Fo

Kent’s Kitchen meal kits are perfect for busy foodies who love tasty, authentic dishes. Made with quality ingredients these one, two, three step kits will make a delicious dish in just 20 minutes. There are 16 meal kits in the range including Spicy Korma, Thai Red Curry, Jalfrezi and Rogan Josh. Each kit makes an abundant portion for two. Visit www.kentskitchen.co.uk, email emma@kentskitchen.co.uk or call 01732 758024 70

September 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 8

78352 Karimix Fine Food ad Sept FAW.indd 1

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speciality & fine food fair Valsana................................................... 359 Vanillabazaar.com................................... 151 Vegusto.................................................. 034 Verbau................................................... 362 Very Food............................................... 809 Villanova Food...................................... 1030 Vita Coco............................................. 903B Vital Sensus............................................ 415 Wales The True Taste.............................. 625 Wales the True Taste............................... 723 Walkers Shortbread........................... 620 WBC..............................................408, 410 We Are Tea......................................... 1041 West Country Kitchen............................. 755 Wild At Heart......................................... 028 Wild Irish Sea Veg................................... 613 William Santus & Company.................... 633 Williamson Fine Teas............................... 347 Willie’s Cacao........................................ 374 Xa Trading............................................ 932 Yellow House Kitchen............................. 030 Your Piece Baking Company................... 620 Your Tapas Company.............................. 855 Yum Yum Tree Fudge Ltd........................ 018 Zaza Gelato............................................ 207 Listings correct at time of going to press.

Tamper evident & film sealable plastic food packaging Reliable leadtimes and service – sensible minimum order size Products available from stock in transparent Sizes available from 30ml to 5000ml Telephone: 01226 762551 · indulge@yummyyorkshire.co.uk www.lottieshaws.co.uk

Visit www.innavisions.com or call us for a brochure TEL; 01886 832283 EMAIL; nick.wild@innavisions.com Vol.13 Issue 8 · September 2012

A promotional feature for Rowcliffe

Can't beat a Burrata A weekend in Berlin throws up a chance encounter with mozzarella's creamier cousin

Talking C heese

with STEVE SMITH

couple of weeks back, I shared a weekend in Berlin with my brothers. The three of us and our wives enjoy an annual get-together, normally a city break, and this year as it was pouring with rain, I was able to suggest a trip to the department store KA DE WE. I'd been told it has the best deli counter in Europe (if not the world) and I can now confirm it is the best. What's more, the cheese counter was actually surpassed by the most incredible charcuterie section I've ever seen. It seemed to go on forever. I simply had to buy some cheese. I

September 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 8

chose a Spanish goats’ cheese, an Italian Tuma dla Paja and I just couldn't resist a Burrata that was floating enticingly in a bowl, as my family had never heard of it before. We'd just bought a bottle of wine to enjoy at the adjacent bar and tucked into the cheeses too, although I'm not sure this was the done thing. They were all great of course but it was the Burrata that interested me most as we are about to launch this into the UK. Forgetting the appalling weather for a moment, I really do understand why this is such a great summer cheese. Although I am a buffalo purist and this is made from cows milk, I just loved the texture and milky mildness of the “curd” which is, of course, enhanced with cream. It does have that very thin, typically “pasta filata" rind which just about holds together the inside delight which then runs like a softly boiled egg when breached with the cheese knife.

We were fortunate to be offered some crusty bread which was a perfect foil for it. Even the Riesling seemed to be a great match. At Rowcliffe we started selling Mozzarella over 40 years ago and this was made in the UK with cows’ milk but our buffalo milk variety has long since taken centre stage and outsells the former massively. Although cows' milk mozzarella can work on pizzas, where there are so many other flavours battling for attention, when it comes to salads it has to be buffalo with that fuller, tangy flavour and moist, glistening texture. The only problem we've had is that the cheeses come packed in bags and they are sometimes damaged and mushy. The great news is that we will shortly be getting them packed in tubs and at the same price, so they should display and keep better. Now, back to the Burrata. We

are delighted to report this will also be available soon but do bear in mind it will have a short shelf life. It is said in Italy that Mozzarella has 12 attributes but loses one of them every hour good job it doesn't apply to people! It is also claimed that Italians do not eat mozzarella after midday but will only put it on their pizzas after that time. The Burrata is even more sensitive so we will probably have this available for delivery during the latter part of the week for the weekend trade. Ah well, it cleared up after lunch so it was off to Checkpoint Charlie and the Reichstag!

01892 838999 www.rowcliffe.co.uk

R FO EG R IST FR E EE R T O OD N A LI Y N E

28th & 29th October 2012 Hall 8, The NEC, Birmingham

All fats processed, packed & delivered by Amko. Vegetable Suet also available. Amko Foods Bolton BL1 8AH Tel: 01204 388801 email: amkofoods@btconnect.com www.amko.co.uk

Bringing you exciting show features and experiences like the Farmers Market area for specialist foods Bringing you the best brands, suppliers and manufacturers Only 5 months to Christmas! Our traditionally reared and produced turkey chicks are now 5 weeks old and growing fast. At Adlington Ltd, we can cover your whole Christmas poultry offer, from oat fed, game hung turkeys and cockerels, to multi award winning range of 3 bird roasts, including our new 6 bird version. Also, stuffed turkey breasts and ducks, all with our unique hand made delicious stuffings.

Bringing you exclusive show deals and opportunities Bringing you the latest retail thinking and innovation

Through our wholesale division, we are constantly reviewing our dedicated offer to the independent deli trade, to bring you the very best and totally unique range of products. Apart from our charcuteries and raw poultry products, look out for duck eggs, rose veal, free range pork and a sensational lamb product.

Bringing independent retailing to life Register your place today at www.independentretailshow.co.uk or call 0845 218 6055

Please call the office number below for more details.

For information on exhibiting please contact Tracy Hawley on 0121 439 2268 or email tracy@independentretailshow.co.uk