MARIA PAYUMO DE1136 - DUAL SENSES with References

DUAL-SENSORY | ORIGANOMICS-

“ DUAL DUAL SEN§ES SEN§ES

(A CONTINUAL-DEVELOPING SENSORY CONCEPT WITHIN OUR TECHNOLIGICAL & DIGITAL-DRIVEN LIFESTYLE)

We live in a world where technology has taken over our lives & we have lost our sense of touch & sight.

SIGHT: We tend to spend a lot of our time on our smartphones, laptops & iPads, thus loosing our sense of clear sight.

TOUCH: Furthermore, we are slowly choosing more sleek & minimalistic designs, so we don’t spend a lot of time observing & feeling the textures of thegarment before we purchase it.

SOLUTION:

Reconnection with Sight - With the idea of incorporating shiburi dyeing method within the pleats in the garment, this will create an illusion. Enabling the wearer to spend time observing the garment & re-assuring theirself if what they’re seeing is real.

Reconnection with Touch - With the hidden textures behind pleated garments, this allows the wearer to feel different types of materials.

DE1136 13004070 MARIA KRISNEL PAYUMO 01

To solve this problem, this Concept Prediction Publication will help us RE-CONNECT with our senses of Touch & Sight.

”

RESEARCH

02 CHARLES SPENCE-

(NUEROSCIENTIST/PROFESSOR OF EXPERIMENTAL PSYCHOLOGY AT SOMERSET COLLEGE, UNIVERSITY OF OXFORD)

His research is all about how the brain processes the information from our 5-senses & how it connects with our experiences from our everyday life style.

Garments that feel nice to the skin tend to put the wearer in a better mood.

“IF A GARMENT IS AN EXTENSION OF THE BODY, THEN ITS SURFACE IS THE EXTENSION OF THE SKIN.” -FASHION FUTURES (QUINN, B. PG 42)

MULTI-SENSORY Pronounciation: /mʌltɪˈsɛns(ə)ri/ “Involving or using more than one of the sense.”

TOUCH TASTE HEARING SIGHT SMELL

DUAL SENSES Involving the use of only two of the five-senses.

Pronounciation: /tʌtʃ/ “Come into or be in contact with; Bring one’s hand or another part of one’s body into contact with.”

TOUCH

SIGHT

Pronounciation: /sʌɪt/ “The faculty or power of seeing; The action or power of seeing someone or something.”

SENSORIUM -

(A PROJECT BY A FRENCH DESIGN DUO KNOWN AS ‘LES M’ & THE SENSORIAL ENVIRONMENT THEY CREATED AT MUDAM GALLERY PUTS OUR SENSATIONS TO THE TEST.)

“For Sensorium, Les M have carefully chosen materials with surfaces and textures asking to be touched. Visitors are also invited to participate in a series of events and workshops, each devoted to one of the five senses. Céline Merhand, Anaïs Morel and other guests present sensual experiences and sensorial surprises that enrich the sixth sense of artistic pleasure.”

RESEARCH

ORIGAMI

Pronounciation: /ˌɒrɪˈɡɑːmi/ “The Japanese Art of folding paper into decorative shapes and figures.”

PLEATS

Pronounciation: /pliːt/ “A double or multiple fold in a garment or other item made of cloth held by stitching the top or side.”

KNIFE/SIDE CRYSTAL INVERTED BOX BOX ACCORDIAN

03

THREE METHODS OF PLEATING FABRICS: HAND PLEATING Pronounciation: /hand pliːt ɪŋ/ Folding a piece of fabric, pleat by pleat as well as other hand techniques like SHIBORI which uses ropes to bind and compress the fabric.

PATTERN PLEATING Pronounciation: /ˈpat(ə)n pliːt ɪŋ/ Employs the use of a cardboard pattern or a tool preferred to as “pleaters board”.

The fabric is then stuffed into spaces and then pressed with a steam Iron.

MACHINE PLEATING

Pronounciation: /məˈʃiːn pliːt ɪŋ/

The least expensive method when making simple pleats like: side, box or crystal pleats as they only require less labor than other specialises pleats. The entire roll of fabric can be pleated as well . It can be used for a variety of applications.

RESEARCH 04 CHLOÉ(CHLOÉ LANGUID PLISSÉ DRESS) “The Chloé languid plissé dress, which was designed for the spring 2012 Chloé campaign. The two dresses is fully pleated, which was then dyed at the pleat edges - where you can see the green and gold colours.”

SHIBORI-

(KNOWN TO BE ONE OF THE OLDEST INDIGO DYEING TECHNIQUES IN JAPAN.)

“The cloth is can either be bound, stitched, twisted, folded & compressed depending of the type fabric that is used. There are six major known Shibori techniques; Kanoko, Miura, Kumo, Nui, Arashi and Itajime.

ARCHITECTURAL INSPO(FACULTY OF MEDICAL SCIENCES OF THE UNIVERSITY OF GRONINGEN, NETHERLANDS) <--- [IMAGES ON THE LEFT]

“The facade is constructed from flat, vertical aluminum slats, which, in places, are twisted outwards in bowed forms. Tall, vertical undulations are generated, which present an open or a closed aspect depending on the angle under which they are viewed. On the lower level the colour yellow is used, which gradually changes to green towards the top of the building.”

INTERIOR INSPO-

(H&M SEOUL BY ARCHITECTS UNIVERSAL DESIGN STUDIO) ---> [IMAGES ON THE RIGHT]

“Universal Design Studio created a perforated pleated facade both on the exterior & interior of the store with tonal contrasts design.”

Kanoko - known as tie dyeing. miura - involves looping & binding needles. kumo - pleated & bind resist, creating spider-like designs. nui - gather the fabric by pulling a stitched thread. arashi - involves twisting, wrapping & binding of the cloth around wooden poles. itajime - The fabric is folded several times in differing tensions togive different effects.”

IRIS VAN HERPEN-

(AN INNOVATIVE CREATIVE WELL-RENOWNED FOR HER MERGING OF SCIENCE & DIGITAL TECHNOLOGY IN FASHION DESIGN)

“Wearing clothing creates an exciting and imperative form of self-expression. ‘Form follows function’ is not a slogan with which I concur. On the contrary, I find that forms complement and change the body and thus the emotion. Movement, so essential to and in the body, is just as important in my work. By bringing form, structure and materials together in a new manner, I try to suggest and realize optimal tension and movement.”

-Iris Van Herpen, website

RESEARCH

ISSEY MIYAKE(PLEATS PLEASE)

“Pleats please concept was first introduced in 1989 & has since then revolutionized the fashion industry especially attracting the admiration of women.”

“Clearly demonstrating the development & evolution of traditional techniques of processing & of pleating material into a highly functional modern product - light in weight & easy to wear and handle.

The clothing is easy to care for, store, & travel with; & offers a choice of colors, patterns & shapes that make full use of the lightweight polyester knitted fabric.”

-Issey Miyake, website

YING GAO-

(THE GAZED-ACTIVATED DRESS)

“Montreal-based chinese-designer Ying Gao used sensory technology in her dresses to create the illusion of movement from a viewers gaze. the dress consists of photoluminescent thread & tiny eye-tracking electronic devices.”

“Ying Gao explained the concept to Dezeen: ‘We use an eye-tracking system so the dresses move when a spectator is staring, she said.[The system] can also turn off the lights, then the dresses illuminate.

Whether it is a direct visual contact or through a camera, the artistic concept of gaze has always appealed to me.”

-Dailymail, Website

05

R&D

06

4 BASIC METHODS OF SHIBORI DYEING

01 (Source: seamwork.com)

02

03

ITAJIME SHIBORI KANOKO SHIBORI NUI SHIBORI ACCORDION STYLE OF PLEATS, THEN SANDWICHING THE FABRIC BETWEEN TWO WOODEN SQUARES OR ANY SOLID MATERIALS IT PRODUCES A GRID-LIKE PATTERN BY EXPOSING ONLY THE EDGES OF THE FOLDS TO THE DYE.

USING RUBBER BANDS, TIE THE AREAS IN WHICH YOU WANT TO RESIST THE DYE. USING DIFFERENT WIDTHS OF BANDS, FOLDS AND TWISTS CAN RESULT TO A WIDE VARIETY OF RESULTS.

THIS METHOD USES THE SAME TECHNIQUE AS KANOKO SHIBORI, BUT INSTEAD OF RESISTING THE DYE USING RUBBER BANDS, THIS ONE USES BASTING STITCHES. THE TIGHTER YOU PULL THE THREAD THE GREATER THE CONTRAST OF THE DYE.

04

KUMO SHIBORI

KUMO SHIBORI IS SIMILAR TO TIEDYEING BY USING THE BASIC RUBBER RESIST THROUGH WRAPPING THE BANDS IN RANDOM AREAS ON THE FABRIC WHICH THEN CREATES A CIRCULAR IMAGE AFTERWARD.

CONCEPT

07

DUAL-SENSORY | ORIGANOMICS-

“

(A CONTINUAL-DEVELOPING SENSORY CONCEPT WITHIN OUR TECHNOLIGICAL & DIGITAL-DRIVEN LIFESTYLE)

We live in a world where technology has taken over our lives & we have lost our sense of touch & sight.

SIGHT: We tend to spend a lot of our time on our smartphones, laptops & iPads, thus loosing our sense of clear sight.

TOUCH: Furthermore, we are slowly choosing more sleek & minimalistic designs, so we don’t spend a lot of time observing & feeling the textures of thegarment before we purchase it.

SOLUTION:

Reconnection with Sight - With the idea of incorporating shiburi dyeing method within the pleats in the garment, this will create an illusion. Enabling the wearer to spend time observing the garment & re-assuring theirself if what they’re seeing is real.

Reconnection with Touch - With the hidden textures behind pleated garments, this allows the wearer to feel different types of materials.

TITLE BOARD

To solve this problem, this Concept Prediction Publication will help us RE-CONNECT with our senses of Touch & Sight.

”

DUAL DUAL SEN§ES SEN§ES

RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT

08

“IF A GARMENT IS AN EXTENSION OF THE BODY, THEN ITS SURFACE IS THE EXTENSION OF THE SKIN.” -FASHION FUTURES (QUINN, B. PG 42)

MULTI-SENSORY Pronounciation: /mʌltɪˈsɛns(ə)ri/ “Involving or using more than one of the sense.”

TOUCH TASTE HEARING SIGHT SMELL

DUAL SENSES Involving the use of only two of the five-senses.

TOUCH

Pronounciation: /tʌtʃ/ “Come into or be in contact with; Bring one’s hand or another part of one’s body into contact with.”

FINAL BOARD I

SIGHT Pronounciation: /sʌɪt/

“The faculty or power of seeing; The action or power of seeing someone or something.”

ORIGAMI

Pronounciation: /ˌɒrɪˈɡɑːmi/ “The Japanese Art of folding paper into decorative shapes and figures.”

PLEATS

Pronounciation: /pliːt/ “A double or multiple fold in a garment or other item made of cloth held by stitching the top or side.”

TAKING INTO CONSIDERATION THE SENSE OF SIGHT AND SENSE OF TOUCH AND INCORPORATING SHIBORI DYEING WITH PLEATED FABRICS. THIS PROJECT WILL LEAD TO A PRODUCTION OF A PUBLICATION THAT WILL CONSISTS OF A4 FABRICATION SAMPLES THAT WILL HELP US RECONNECT WITH OUR SENSES.

SHIBORI

RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT

09

TO BE ABLE TO PROVE THAT WE ARE LOOSING OUR SENSE OF TOUCH AND SIGHT DUE TO THE OVER-USE OF DIGITAL & TECHNOLOGY, I CREATED A SMALL SURVEY IN SURVEY MONKEY. FROM THESE I’VE HIGHLIGHTED SOME KEY QUESTIONS THAT LINKS WELL WITH THIS PROJECT. (BOXES HIGHLIGHTED IN YELLOW)

FROM THE RESPONSES IN MY SURVEY, I’VE CONCLUDED THAT USING THE SHIBORI DYE METHOD IS A GOOD EXAMPLE TO CREATE MATERIALS THAT CAN CREATE AN ILLUSION AND ALLOW CONSUMERS TO TOUCH, FEEL & LOOK AT THE GARMENT, THEREFORE MAKING THEM PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT IS REAL.

FINAL BOARD II

TYPES OF PLEATS ON PAPER, CREATING BASIC TEMPLATES (PROTOTYPES)

DESIGN

10

TYPES OF SHIBORI DYEING ON COTTON FABRIC (PROTOTYPES).

Blue left for 1 hour.

Red left for at least 5-6 hours.

THE CONCEPT OF WHERE PLEATED GARMENTS AREN’T WHAT THEY SEEM. ONE SIDE CAN SHOW A SIMPLE PLEATED STRUCTURE, BUT AS YOU CHANGE YOUR SIGHTLINE ON THE GARMENT (LOOKING IN A DIFFERENT DIRECTION) YOU WILL SEE A DIFFERENT TYPE OF TEXTURE HIDDEN BEHIND THE PLEATS. “ORIGAMI X _?_” THE CONCEPT PREDICTION BOOK WILL CONSISTS OF DIFFERENT TYPES OF ORIGAMIPLEATS ON GARMENTS, AS WELL AS OTHER TYPES OF SHIBORI DYEING METHOD AND TEXTURES. IT WILL HAVE A SMALL GUIDE FOR CONSUMERS, TEACHING THEM HOW TO ‘CARE’ FOR THEIR PLEATS AND OTHER THINGS RELATED TO ...

“NOT EVERYTHING WE SEE IS REAL”.

FINAL BOARD III

PLEAT & BIND METHOD

DESIGN

11

PUBLICATION SAMPLE. WITH A4 PAGES OF FABRIS STUCK UNTO THE BOOK. WHICH GIVES A WIDER SCOPE OF HOW THE FABRIC LOOKS AND FEELS.

A LITTLE CLIP OF HOW SIMPLE THE STEPS ARE TO DO THE BASIC SHIBORI DYEING METHODS. I USED DYLON DYE AND A BASIN, SINCE I DIDN’T HAVE ENOUGH TIME AND MONEY TO USE THE PROPER JAPANESE DYES.

FINAL BOARD IV

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DUAL SEN§ES

REFERENCES PAGE 2 - RESEACH: “5 Senses images” https://devcentral.f5.com/articles/our-five-senses-on-sensors

PAGE 4 - RESEARCH: Chloe photo styling https://en.wordpress.com/tag/languid-plisse-dress/

*SENSORIUM IMAGES: “Sensorium” http://www.mudam.lu/en/expositions/details/exposition/les-m/

Architecture Inspo images http://anirik-01.livejournal.com/1281632.html

PAGE 3 - RESEARCH: Pleated garment & origami images http://www.pinterest.com/ “3 Methods of pleating fabrics” http://www.internationalpleating.com/three-methods-used-to-pleat-fabric/

DUAL DUAL SEN§ES SEN§ES

H&M interior images http://www.archdaily.com/84834/hm-seoul-store-universal-design-studio “Shibori dyeing method” http://www.shibori.co.uk/shibori.html PAGE 5 - RESEARCH: IRIS VAN HERPEN http://www.irisvanherpen.com/about ISSEY MIYAKE http://www.isseymiyake.com/en/brands/pleats_please.html YING GAO http://yinggao.ca/eng/interactifs/walking-city/ PAGE 6 - RESEARCH: “4 types of Shiboi dyeing method” http://www.seamwork.com