FLASH Issue No.10 Fall/Winter 2017/2018

THE VICE & VIRTUE ISSUE

FALL | WINTER 2017 NO. 10

FLASH EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Ruby Buddenmeyer

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Emma Childs

FASHION EDITOR

Franchesca Sampeur

BEAUTY EDITOR Olivia Lucas

CULTURE EDITOR Karen Kapoor

ONLINE EDITORS Katie Coombs

ASST. FASHION EDITOR Peri Rohl

ASST. BEAUTY EDITOR Samantha Wei

ASST. CULTURE EDITOR Sophie Ambro

ASST. ONLINE EDITOR Alyana Vera

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05 FASHION

content

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Eclectic Confidence

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Traveling Through Time Through Fashion

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Homelessness: A Societal Crisis or a Fashion Trend

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The Art of Mixing Prints

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The Convergence of Casual and Classy

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Trend Watch: Athleisure

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Fashion VS. Function

25 BEAUTY 27

Gloss Boss

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Express Yourself

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Breaking the Stereotypes of Dance

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How Revolutionary is Fenty Beauty

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Buried Under Products: Releasing Your Healthy Skin

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Asian Vs. American Beauty

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Busy Girl Day to Night Makeup Tips

45 CULTURE 47

“Yeezy Made It”

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Gay Sex and the City

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From the Cup to the Streets: Gentrification in Harlem

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The Prison on Fifth

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Bitchin’ in Brooklyn: Thoughts from a Disillusioned Humanist

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Section Spread

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EDITORIAL

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editor’s letter As we finally bid farewell to the rollercoaster ride known as 2017, one thing has become clear: Regardless of your politics, the country has been altered.

And as lovers and appreciators of all things fashion, beauty, and culture, the FLASH team has been honored to join the many reporters, editors, photographers, and designers using media platforms to voice real change. We’ve witnessed firsthand as fashion—and the inspired individuals that comprise it—has shifted from frivolous to revolutionary—and we can’t say we’re mad about it.

In an effort to house the many ideas circulating our editorial board, we attempted something different this issue. Ahead, we curated our work within the parameters of vice and virtue, focusing on the bold contrasts and unusual—yet alluring—juxtapositions within the industry right now. From an in-depth analysis of hip-hop culture and high fashion to a provoking photo journal of Brooklyn’s gentrification, we’re proud to say that this issue has something for everyone.

Ruby Buddenmeyer Your Editor-in-Chief

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fashion We make dichotomous decisions every day. Light or dark? Sexy or sweet? Me or someone else? The latter is the hardest to admit to ourselves but we still contemplate that sense of self. This year FLASH Fashion realized it’s not about either or; it’s about both and neither.

Everybody knows fashion as a form of self expression but how do you go about executing that? The following pages delve into the past to help us understand what’s trending now. Beyond the runways and street styles, we explore the realities of the runway and the streets colliding, and no, it’s not about street style. Perhaps you’ll answer that question in a fashion all your own—as a compilation of all the decisions that came before it.

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ECLECTIC CONFIDENCE

BY PERI ROHL My closet is chaotic. It is bursting out the seams with sweaters, shoes, scarves, socks, and everything in between. Yes, I have a lot of clothes. I realized that I had a problem with shopping the second week of this semester when I already had to run out to buy a 12 pack of hangers. But, the thing with my wardrobe is, nothing seems to work together. I am eclectic, I love to shop from all prices, streets, from new to old, kid and adult. My wardrobe, for lack of a better term, is a hot mess.

When I was 15, I was a Peter Pan collar fanatic. Hipster librarian was my game, and I was definitely coming in first place. Soon after, the 90s trend hit the scene, and 16-yearold Peri was an acid wash queen. At 17 my hair was about to touch my rear end, and my long locks allowed me to live my 1970s hippy dreams. 18 I was business casual, and at 19 I chopped my hair. You can see I have had many evolutions.

Now that I am on the cusp of 20 and I metamorphosed practically tenfold, getting dressed in the morning is not what it used to be. I find myself staring at my overflowing closet, the bits and pieces of past selves shoved between my future incarnations. Everyday I wear a different trend, try a different decade, but I find myself thinking, who am I when I put on these clothes?

I have heard of a process called “the uniform.” When time is lacking and you need to get dressed in a pinch, you put on your uniform and suddenly—viola! You are wearing the outfit that, if you were a cartoon, would be put on your

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character every episode. It could be jeans, t-shirt, sneakers, or sweater, skirt, boots. It is the outfit that when your friendsseeapictureinamagazine,theysay“Thisissoyou.”

Ultimately, the goal is to walk out the door feeling and looking most like yourself. Wouldn’t that be nice?

So, what can I do with my eclectic sense of style?

I want to be sexy, feminine, edgy, girly, shy. I want to be able to express what I am feeling through my clothes, not be limited with the “uniform” someone tells me I should dawn. But at the same time I want to look in the mirror and say “Hey girl, every outfit you have worn this week makes you look smart and worldly, just like you are on the inside—can I have your number?” You see my dilema.

But I think that’s the beauty of style. What fun would it be if style was linear and you could see no evolution in yourself and your change of character? I think that is where the confidence lies, the ability to look back on pictures of your old self and realize how much you have grown, changed, and learned as a person just by looking at your clothes.

For the present moment, I think I am going to find confidence in the ambition to be different. Not every look I dawn will suit me perfectly (i.e bermuda shorts) but hey, I’ll try it! That’s something! When I am in the mood to be biker chic, I will not let my floral dresses tell me otherwise. Heck, I might even wear them together.

With confidence, we can pull off anything. Even if it looks like a hot mess.

to be sexy, feminine, edgy, girly, shy. I want “ I want to be able to express what I am feeling through

my clothes, not be limited with the 'uniform’ someone tells me I should dawn.

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Traveling Through Time Through Fashion By: Doreen Wang

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“Following the trend” is an easy act to accomplish by anyone who pays attention to the fashion market.

Retailers take this act to their advantage by always stocking up the articles of clothing or accessories that are the “it” items. But fashion is always a surprise to the eye; always clashing styles which, based on our routined perception of styling clothes, appear like two items that should not go together, but it always worked (remember when we were all wearing fishnet tights under our cut-out jeans?). Many of the trends that we support nowadays have traveled through time to adapt to modern day fashion. Let us “follow the trend” and take a look at some of this clashing of styles on the runways of fashion week 2017 and see how traditional culture has evolved into modern trends.

Did we all think that the old-timey cowboy look should be, well, only worn by cowboys? Think again because the western look is coming into style in our front. The western front is this season’s crop of cowboy-inspired looks featured on some of the highest fashion runways such as Calvin Klein, Alexander Wang, and Bal-

main. The reimagined trend takes a modern twist with steel-toed boots, leather vests, cowhide prints, and kitschy cacti. Along with a resurgence of the western, this season’s runways also welcomed back the Victorian collar. This style of collar, of course, dates back to the Victorian era where women relied on more conservative ensembles. We witnessed a comeback of this collar on both the Kenzo and Valentino runways, with Shakespearean accents attached to modern button downs in crisp poplin fabrics. Burberry, Thom Brown, and Acne Studios showed us deconstructed classics.

Merely the label of this trend sounds contradicting, as these classy designers take the kitchen sink route when it comes to textiles, but each brand played with texture, color, length, and pattern. Ports 1961 even went as far as removing an entire sleeve for a modern, reimagined power suit.

But high fashion isn’t the only place we’re witnessing a resurgence and juxtaposition of trends—let’s take a look at how we reimagine and combine trends of the past into our everyday dress.

EMBROIDERED BOMBER JACKETS Embroidery dates back to the Neolithic age in China, emerging some 5,000-6,000 years ago. In the 14th century, the Chinese silk embroidery production reached its peak after the opening of the Silk Road in the Han Dynasty where silk production and trade flourished.

Although embroidery was mostly seen on sophisticated and traditional Chinese apparel, 2017 marked the merging of traditional, ornate embroidery with sporty silhouettes— particularly, bomber jackets. The bomber jacket, which has become a staple in most closets, was first worn by the United States AIr Force during the Cold War. Also known as the flight jacket, bomber jackets were utilized for their lightweight, durable fabrics. This juxtaposition of traditional Chinese embroidery and American bomber jackets offers not only a stylish ensemble, but a rich history.

KIMONOS What is the most common look worn to music festivals, summer barbeques, or to the sandy beach? A lightweight cover-up to brighten our outfits as well as protecting our arms from the sun known as a kimono. Its literal translation being “thing-to wear,” kimonos originated in Japan in the 16th century. It is an iconic article of clothing worn by the Japanese for formal occasions such as weddings, tea ceremonies, funerals, and other special events.

The complication that dressers had to go through to put the kimono on a person is simplified today, as this stylish clothing piece has been thinned down for it to be merely thrown on. Today, it is worn by the majority of the western culture, styled simply as a cover-up over a tight fitted dress, tank-top and jean-shorts ensemble, swimwear, or other relaxed and casual outfits. This stylization of the kimono with a casual outfit underneath blends the formal usage originated from the Japanese and the casualness of today’s western culture.

FANNY PACKS Little did you know, the fanny pack dates back to the French in the 15th century when they wore a small bag that hung from a belt called a “chatelain.” A big trend in France has always been mixing couture pieces with street wear, therefore the designs of their “belt pack” are always chic and delicate. Making its way to America, the chatelain lost its delicacy when we picked up the trend and named it “fanny.” But what was once a stereotypical unfashionable, American accessory (think: tourists and grandparents), the summer of 2017 pushed the fanny pack into a fresh, fashionable style amongst millennials.

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Homelessness:

A Societal Crisis or a Fashion Trend?

By Helen Spyropoulos

The days of patching that hole in your jeans or trying to remove bleach stains from your favorite shirt are long gone—distressed fashion remains prominent in the spheres of casual street style and runway shows alike. At this point, it seems you can’t buy a pair of jeans without finding at least one rip or raw hem somewhere. As much as grunge fashion is a great form of expression and a revolution against the pressure placed on one’s surface appearance, there is a distinct difference between grunge fashion and the inflammatory “homeless chic.”

During the 2017 New York Men’s Fashion Week, designer Daisuke Obana of Japanese label N. Hoolywood reminded the fashion world that no matter how freeing expression through design can be, fashion is still responsible for basic decency. The collection, which retailed for up to $500, took its inspiration from homeless youth, or as Obana called it, the “gutter punk” subculture. The models, made specifically to look skeletal, sleep deprived, and drug addicted, slouched under heaps of clothing as if they were wearing everything they owned, and carried plastic bags with the word ‘survive’ printed on the side. This poignant word ‘survive’ printed on bags and some clothing pieces is telling of the hardships and day-to-day living of the homeless, but it’s also a clear glamorization and misunderstanding of the lives of the displaced, this too showcased in the catchy phrase “gutter punk” to describe youth homelessness.

While many critics of the collection agreed it was distasteful, some admirers claimed that it was a “reminder of an often invisible population… destined to increase” as The New York Times put it.

Applauding homeless-inspired fashion for bringing awareness to the problem is likely the result of having little idea as to what homelessness entails. In no way do these inspired shows actually represent the struggles of the homeless, including the overlooked issues of mental illness, drug addiction, and the LGBTQ homeless youth. Being homeless is not

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simply wearing a lot of layers and traveling like an emancipated nomad with only the most obligatory personal items; it is a serious issue not to be distorted or used to profit fashion companies.

Sadly, the 2017 N. Hoolywood collection was not the first or only one of its kind to go beyond grunge fashion into the territory of homelessness. Renowned designer Vivienne Westwood held a menswear show in Milan in 2010, in which one magazine editor coined “homeless chic” as an appropriate description of the collection. Westwood’s show had gone even further than Obana’s in its attempt to portray homelessness, with one model reportedly climbing out of a cardboard box onto the runway.

The models looked even more deliberately barren, with silver paint streaks running through roughly disheveled hair and faces painted to be pale and lifeless. Westwood claims she found the idea of homeless-inspired style from a friend of her husband who works with homelessness charities, yet the profits from the collection never went to benefit any charity of this kind. Speaking of her experience with homelessness, Westwood explains, “The nearest I have come to [being homeless] is going home and finding I don’t have my door key… I mean, what a disaster that is, dying to get in your house and you can’t. And what if it wasn’t there anymore?” While Westwood expressed empathy for the subjects of her designs, she lacked any actual realization regarding what homelessness is like—and she lacked the desire to help.

Not only are such homeless-inspired collections contemptible for their lack of creativity (stealing inspiration straight from the lives of the homeless), they overlook everything that it is to be homeless.

Obana and Westwood’s menswear collections completely overlook the plights of homeless women (such as lack of access to menstrual products), as well as the fact that domestic abuse is the cause for ¼ of women’s homelessness.

Designers fail to represent that a majority of homeless people live with mental illness and are without any treatment or medications, and neglect to consider the complications of drug addiction related to homelessness besides an effort to make their models look glassy eyed for the sake of the shows’ appeal.

Despite being motivated by images of homelessness and subsequently profiting from their rudimentary depictions of it, none of the designers behind the aforementioned shows chose to in any way benefit the homeless population. None of the proceeds of any collection went to homelessness charities or shelters.

And instead of hiring or collaborating with actual homeless people in need of employment and having them share their authentic experiences, these designers hired professional models to look like homeless people and took inspiration from what little experience they have with homelessness.

Artists, including fashion designers, have a compulsion toward expressive freedom, this expression which can often be provocative and even disturbing. It is this freedom allowed to artists that enables Obana, Westwood, and other creators to compose and innovate in any way they wish with their art. But, it is just as vital to consider and discuss the impact of art on how society understands itself and its innermost controversies.

the art of mixing prints by: Braylee LeClair Mixing

prints can be terrifying, but if the outfit is put together with the right prints, the result is often amazing. Most of us tend to pair prints with solids so our outfits don’t look overwhelming, but an outfit can have multiple prints and still achieve a polished, original look. Here are some outfit ideas and tips for mixing prints that can make even a beginner feel comfortable!

leopard When pairing prints, think of leopard like a solid—it can

be paired with almost any other print. In this outfit, the leopard jacket is paired with a red, floral lace skirt. This look is vibrant but doesn’t look like it’s clashing to onlookers. Leopard also looks great when paired with stripes.

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Think of leopard like a solid... add a fun flare to an otherwise simple outfit.

mixing & matching For those that are wary of mixing prints, try beginning

with subtly printed accessories. This allows you to incorporate printed components into your outfit without committing to large, overbearing designs. One way to style an outfit like this is to rock basic pants, like these black flared pants, with a colorfully printed top and a delicate snakeskin belt. A fun pair of red and pink geometric shoes can be paired with a feminine lace skirt of the same color. Shoes and belts are not typically the first thing our eye sees, so these looks appear to be much subtler than most outfits with multiple prints.

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Try a subtly printed accessory.

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However

you choose to style your prints, remember to keep the rest of your look simple with basic jewelry and accessories, and to always wear your outfit with confidence!

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“

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key!

It’s all in the details.

confidence is

Lastly,

you can buy articles that already have prints mixed into them! The dress shown has checkered and geometric elements, pairing well with a simple black and white neck scarf. The patchwork pants are mixed with stripes, polka dots and geometric prints. Since these pants already have multiple prints, it’s best to pair them with a basic top that has a playful, subtle embellishment, like the crochet inserted on the side of the shirt.

The pieces that already have mixed prints allow you to feel comfortable in knowing your outfit isn’t too much, because the garment was designed with multiple prints.

The Convergence of CASUAL & Classy

by Connor Howlett

Many styles are easy to identify. Bohemian, preppy, punk, chic, athleisure – these names bring to mind specific staples pieces we associate with those styles. But what happens when styles converge?

In recent collections, designers have started to mix dressy pieces with streetwear staples. Fashion houses like Alexander McQueen and Vêtements have played with these two distinct styles, bringing them together to create unconventional yet effortless couture looks. Luckily, despite their couture nature, these recent styles can also be implemented into your outfit rotation with clothes already in your closet. The convergence of classy and casual creates intrigue that’s sure to get people talking.

As fashion week hit New York, London, and Paris this past September, the upcoming Spring collections clearly showed the marriage between classy and casual. Hermès and Alexander McQueen took creative risks, pairing dressier clothing items like sports coats, pleated trousers, and pencil skirts with open toed sandals, sneakers, and oversized sweaters. Taking two styles meant for vastly different occasions resulted in provocative looks, an ultimate goal of couture fashion. Vêtements took this trend one step further, pairing dresses with chunky sneakers and visible athletic socks.

They also showed off a new neoprene rain parka in bright neon yellow paired over a muted blue suit.

The contrast of these styles throws the viewer off, and really makes them evaluate the pairing and admire the juxtaposition.

“While formal and casual wear serve clear purposes, a look tha t combines the two is unconventional, creating an eye-catching outfit.”

So why pair these articles of clothing so clearly at opposite ends of the spectrum? The looks these designers are putting out on the runway are incredibly tailored while also being cool and casual. While formal and casual wear serve clear purposes, a look that combines the two is unconventional, creating an eye-catching outfit.

Additionally, the mix creates looks more suited for a day out or for events somewhere between formal and totally casual. With the emergence of casual and classy, contrasting pieces within a single look has become a more widely accepted option and opens up a new world of outfit possibilities.

Ready-to-wear designer fashion may be out of your budget, but this trend can easily be done with pieces you already own. The recent menswear trend of pairing a clean sneaker, like Adidas’s Stan Smith collection, with a blazer and button down shirt is a perfect example. The sneakers dress down a typical office look while keeping it elevated enough for a night on the town. Women at the forefront of fashion trends have recently worn lace-up heels with sweatpants or oversized hoodies acting as dresses (à la the Kardashian sisters in the recent Yeezy collection). The clash of these two fashion extremes creates an effortless daytime look consisting of elements that almost every woman has sitting in her closet right now.

While the casual and classy trend may not be an everyday fashion choice, it can certainly be utilized to spice up a look on a day where you feel the need to try something different.

The “casual and classy” pairing has made its mark as a current fashion trend in recent seasons. Based on how huge fashion influencers like Hermès and Alexander McQueen have been pushing the boundaries in recent fashion weeks, the trend also appears to be here to stay. Street style icons have been taking part too, showing how the trend can be translated from the runway to the sidewalk. With a little creative mixing and matching, casual and classy can become an option for you too.

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TREND WATCH: ATHLEISURE

By Sibel Iskender

With fashion month behind us, it’s safe to say we’ve seen countless new trends circulating the runways of New York, London, Milan, and Paris. One trend in particular we’ve had our eyes on season after season is the effortlessly casual, yet chic and cool-girl inspired sportswear movement. Brands like Champion, FILA, and Adidas that we cherished in the early 2000s have taken on a new form and are making street style moves from city to city. Toss the stilettos and trench coats to the back of your closets—hoodies and sneakers have made a fashion-forward comeback and we’re positive they’re here to stay. Style meets comfort in the suavest way we’ve seen and this all-American look is making waves all over the world.

NEW YORK

While the rest of the world might be quick the generalize New York City style as easy and casual, New Yorkers have the athletica-meets-runway look down to a science. The oversized look can easily become sloppy, but with a refined skinny jean and a powerful shoe, you can turn your drab lazy-Sunday getup into a daring day to night look. Swap for sneakers on your way to class and slip on platform boots for a G.N.O.

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TOKYO Perhaps the most eccentric of the three, Tokyo is undoubtedly a flashy city—and its people take no shame in putting their best, and lately, their most comfortable, foot forward. The streets of Tokyo are unpredictable, as its style ranges from every side of the spectrum—feminine and professional in the bustling business quarter of Ginza, or goth and grungy in trendy Harajuku. Printed jeans and flare sleeves are undoubtedly components of an eye-catching ensemble, and fishnet socks add an extra element of edge.

PARIS The classic Parisian uniform of the leather jacket, skinny jeans, and pumps takes a bold twist on this urbanized version of the timeless French look. Go for the undone side of the spectrum and let the pants do the talking with minimal makeup and messy waves, or swipe on a red lip for a look guaranteed to turn heads. For the extra element of the European aura, tie on a silk scarf in a neutral tone.

FASHION VS. FUNCTION

BY NISHITA NAGA 23.

What defines “high fashion?” The term itself might seem easy enough to understand, but what the majority tends to overlook is how the term is defined. Is it even defined? Can it be defined?

Society accepts the concept of haute couture without too many questions, because for many, it is meant to only be admired and nothing more.

Think on it enough and it seems as though “high fashion,” while an abstract concept, may not be entirely intangible. While the term itself may be difficult to attach a definition to, the concept seems to be more a state of mind. Consumers identify high-end styles based off of feelings and perceptions they associate with brand names and words used to describe such brands. What many consumers do not typically consider is how broad the term “high fashion” can be.

“High fashion,” if we choose to define it as a state of mind, can be extended to anything consumers associate prestige and luxury with. Brands like Louis Vuitton may be the most traditional name thought of as a couture brand, but in truth, names like Apple can also be thought of as high fashion.

The populous scrambles after the latest iPhone or Apple Watch, because the product is advertised with prestige and exclusivity.

Now, pause. Society accepts the concept of “high fashion” without too much question as a result of its appeal to aspirational consumers. Buyers of Apple products do not display their new computers or watches in their closets or on the walls of their homes. These products are used in everyday life in the same way people wear sweaters to keep warm.

“High-fashion” Apple products have a distinct function, and yet, they can still be considered as high fashion.

The functional side of fashion in contrast to the artistic side has plagued the industry for as long as technological advances have been significant enough to bring up such questions. High-end brands Prada and Gucci have been in opposition with each other since before their contrast was covered by the New York Times in 1999. Prada, on one hand, chose to deal in functional clothing, claiming

the pockets-and-boots look while Gucci insisted on a minimalist, yet artistic view, building from the classic white v-neck look. This type of argument stayed the crux of the fashion or function issue until recently, as technology made historic advancements and Apple and Hermès joined forces in 2015 to create the “Apple Watch Hermès collection.” The collaboration consisted of the newest stainless-steel Apple Watches and leather Hermès straps signature to Margiele, the designer, since his days in the French fashion house.

“While two dif ferent concepts, how separate fashion and function should be is becoming up to the designers and the market and as technology continues to advance, perhaps fashion and function will no longer be seen as separate themes, but as a unified form of art.”

There are those with the opinion that the fusion of clothes and tech is the future, and it is conceivable for “high fashion” and function to become synonymous with the right level of technology.

This was artfully demonstrated in the 2016 Met Gala: Manus x Machina, a theme flawlessly captured by the designs of Zac Posen and Marchesa.

Both dresses featured lighting within pouches of the fabric, so the stars who debuted them could shine bright even without any flashing cameras.

Marchesa partnered with IBM to create a stunning cognitive design in which the dress changed color with viewers’ tweets, capturing the emotions in their words and lighting accordingly.

While two different concepts, how separate fashion and function should be is becoming up to the designers and the market and as technology continues to advance. Perhaps fashion and function will no longer be seen as separate themes, but as a unified form of art.

beauty Confidence is beautiful on you! With this season’s hot new releases, we keep in mind the importance of representation in beauty. From Fenty to Glossier, brands are stepping up their game to set a standard of inclusivity and beauty as a means for empowerment. Use our curated tips and tricks to look and feel your best this winter.

Gloss Boss The products created by breakout beauty brand Glossier may be minimal, but the (girl) power of the mastermind behind it is anything but. Glossier CEO Emily Weiss designs and uses her products to promote a new perception of makeup: not as a mask to “make up” for what one lacks, but as a reflector and amplifier of the natural beauty one already has.

Weiss originally hails from Wilton, Connecticut but moved to New York City to study at New York University, pursuing her interest in fashion that had captivated her from a young age.

According to Weiss’s own statements on her blog, it was while working in the fashion industry with magazines such as Vogue, Teen Vogue, and W that she realized two things: She desired a firsthand role in creating styles rather than observing them, and the beauty coverage she witnessed focused mainly on specific trends and looks, rather than using beauty as a medium of unique self-expression. These two notions led Weiss to create Into the Gloss, a beauty blog that reviews products, gives beauty tips, and most of all, promotes the creation of makeup looks, skin-care routines, and hairstyles as ways to explore and display one’s own self. The blog has been in operation since 2010 and still has a strong following today, boasting over 800,000 total followers across social media platforms and countless more readers of the site itself, approximating 10 million views each month.

Glossier, too, sprang from the mission behind Into the Gloss. With the creation of simple products, Weiss put her original spin on the idea of beauty that “lives with you­—not on you”, the brand’s slogan. Weiss’s promotion of the products in this way gives the brand an organic feel and tells women that makeup need not exist

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by Gillian Russo

to change them, but adapt to their own unique qualities. The brand, which was first promoted through Instagram, now has a flourishing website, an ever-growing customer base, and has made Weiss into a millionaire.

Weiss’s leadership earned her a place on Forbes’ 30 Under 30 in 2015. She also has a combined total of over 300,000 social media followers across her various accounts.

She uses her platforms to augment the messages of her blog and of Glossier, promoting self-confidence, body positivity, and her own adventures in creating and playing with style.

By expressing these views on her personal profiles, her voice and Glossier’s focus on versatile products both portray the woman as the leader of her own life and her own choices on how to present oneself.

For this reason, Weiss’s views have also made her a powerful figure in modern feminism. Her approach to beauty has started to combat the perception that makeup is used to please men.

Weiss instead focuses on the empowerment of the individual girl, an idea that has gained popularity over the last few years and contributed to the rise of her power as an advocate for social change and conversations about “real” beauty.

By growing her brand, writing her blog, and continually promoting the revolutionization of the beauty industry, Weiss has secured her place in the world of entrepreneurship and social change. Whatever the future holds for beauty, Emily Weiss will likely be at the forefront of the movement, pushing boundaries of what defines beauty and continuing to take the industry by storm.

EXPRESS YOURSELF!

BY: MARY WOOD

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Nobody is single faceted. Every person has different curves and angles that make up who they are as an individual.

Nothing should inhibit us from expressing ourselves in a positive way that allows us to feel beautiful. Makeup, whether you prefer a full face or no product at all, is a form of expression, and how one chooses to present oneself can change day-to-day. Certain days may call for a minimalistic makeup routine, while others may be perfect for a glamorous face.

Ahead, we rounded up tips and tricks to help you put your best face forward according to how you decide to express yourself.

Minimalist Must-Haves When it comes to makeup, simple can be beautiful.

To achieve a fresh, clean face with a natural flush of color, sweep the same shade of pink blush on your eyes and cheeks for a soft, rosy glow. Try using ColourPop’s Pressed Powder Face Duo in Done Deal, NYX’s High Definition Blush Hamptons, or Dior’s Blush Vibrant Colour Powder Blush in Happy Cherry.

Foundation is completely optional with this bright and simple look. By keeping this makeup to a “bare minimum”, you also save time and money by using fewer products.

The colors of this fall and winter are not only stunning on clothing but also on the face. To keep the look natural, pair an eyeshadow featuring one of the season’s “it” colors (such as marigold yellow, olive green, mahogany, or terracotta) with a clean face and a neutral lip. Anastasia Beverly Hills’ Subculture Eye Shadow Palette hits all the right notes with its collection of in-season shades that can be used to create both simple and glamorous makeup looks. Don’t want the entire palette? ColourPop’s Pressed Powder Shadow in Paper Tiger, NARS’ Single Eyeshadow in Persia, and Etude House’s Blend For Eyes Quad in Dried Rose are other beautiful options.

Glam Grabs

While some statements can be made in subtlety, some messages need to be announced boldly and clearly for all to see. Use your makeup to make these declarations. These two glamorous looks will captivate the attention of those around you. Nothing says “notice me” like a bold lip. Try out some timeless colors, new hues, and revamped classics. Use Huda Beauty’s Liquid Matte Lipstick in Cheerleader if you want a more muted take on the classic red lip. ColourPop’s Ultra Matte Lip in Arriba is an option if you are in the mood for a deeper, darker shade of red. Kat Von D’s Studded Kiss Lipstick in A-Go-Go, a bright, “notice me” orange color, and Tijuana, a fiery red orange shade, also make this list of glamorous, eye-catching lipsticks.

Highlighter is arguably the biggest makeup trend of the year­everybody wants that glamorous “glow.” To achieve this look, apply a highlighter to your cheekbones, the tip of your nose, and your Cupid’s bow. For lighter skin tones, use a highlighter with an icy-white or light-pink glow such as ColourPop’s Super Shock Highlighter in Monster. ColourPop’s Pressed Powder Highlighter in Boujee Call works best for medium and olive skin tones because of its peach undertones. For dark skin tones, a richly pigmented highlighter in the gold family such as ColourPop’s Pressed Powder Highlighter in Happy Camper is best to bring out your inner radiance.

BREAKING THE STEREOTYPES 0F

DANCE

BY KRISTEN WILLIAMS

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The world of dance is no stranger to stereotypes.

Thankfully now that we are moving into the age of body positivity and looking after our health, dance has become a passion for those who were told they could never be in the spotlight.

Instead of strict binaries, dancers can fuse genres together to create something never seen before.

Boundaries are being broken as to what a dancer should entail and the strict techniques they need to follow.

Currently, the only dance company in the world performing Hiplet (pronounced hip-lay, like ballet), a new genre of dance, is in Chicago. The creator of this hip-hop ballet fusion, Homer Hans Bryant, teaches at the Chicago Multi-Cultural Dance Center where he takes his group of classically trained ballerinas, most of which are teenagers, and infuses their movements with hip-hop technique and movement—all on pointe. The YouTube video of one of their classes has gone viral, with millions of views and counting, leading to their many appearances on talk shows around the country like Good Morning America and ABC News.

This new school of dance challenges the preconceived notion of classical ballet. While all the dancers are on pointe and incorporate many classical techniques, Hiplet is also known for using today’s top hits and a looser disposition in order to transform ballet into an urban dance experience. The addition of Hiplet classes adds a genre of dance that can appeal to a different audience than classical ballet.

While CMDC is the only company in the world performing Hiplet, it is also the only dance school currently teaching this technique. The added attention that Hiplet has brought to the school has helped to fund their mission of “Empowering Lives Through Dance.” They work to fund their classes through scholarships so that every child with a talent and passion for dance can do so, no matter their economic ability. However, the Hiplet dancers are not the only ones breaking traditional dance stereotypes.

The full-figured dance company, Pretty Big Movement, was started when one of Beyoncé’s former backup dancers couldn’t get representation from a dance company because of her body.

She was seen as “too big” to make it as a professional dancer. Because of this, Akira I. Armstrong went out and started Pretty Big Movement: a professional dance company for women with voluptuous curves. Based right here in New York City, this company specializes in a multitude of dance genres from hip hop and jazz to African and modern.

Not only has this company already been recognized on television for competing in the 10th season of America’s Got Talent, but they have also been touring all over the world and advocating for body diversity in both dance and fashion. Their moves have been featured in New York Fashion Week for “#PlusIsEqual” by Lane Bryant and in Lane Bryant’s “I’m No Angel” campaign.

The CEO and founder of Pretty Big Movement boasts an impressive dance career. After developing her craft at performing art schools, including being a former Alvin Ailey student, Akira has worked with multiple companies before she started her own group. Now she spreads dance and empowerment through the world, including partnering with Ailey Extension to teach a Pretty Big Movement Workshop. For anyone who enjoys or has ever wanted to spend an hour or two among people jamming out and creating beautiful movement, PBM has created a judgement free environment for anyone to be free and authentically themselves.

The wave of body positivity on social media is translating into the professional world of dance, where no longer does someone need to look a certain way to be accepted into the community of dancers. Being a dancer myself, I have grown with the other kids in my dance class and they have become some of my best friends. The bonds that form after years of rehearsals, the joys and downfalls of competition and every part in between becomes irreplaceable friendships that a dancer can rely on in all aspects of their life. But far too often, as little kids grow up, they are told that they need to change themselves to make it as a dancer.

Dance companies like Pretty Big Movement and the Hiplet group are just the beginning of dancers who are looked at for their talent, and not for the ways they might be different.

“THE

W AV E O F B O D Y POSITIVITY ON SOCIAL MEDIA IS TRANSLATING INTO THE PROFESSIONAL W O R L D O F DA N C E , WHERE NO LONGER DOES SOMEONE NEED TO LOOK A CERTAIN WAY TO BE ACCEPTED INTO THE COMMUNITY OF DANCERS. ”

34.

How Revolutionary is Fenty Beauty ?

35.

By Lauren Middleton

After gathering data from the 20 top-selling foundation brands according to Sephora’s website, here’s the breakdown:

7 had 30 or more shades – 35% 10 had between 15 and 30 shades – 50% 3 had less than 15 shades – 15%

While Fenty deserves to be applauded for the fact that it has 11 shades ranging from “deep” to “very deep”, we can’t take away from the other brands that have also made strides in representing many different shades, particularly those that cater to women of color.

”

While Fenty deserves to be applauded for the fact that it has 11 shades ranging from “deep” to “very deep”, we can’t take away from the other brands that have also made strides in representing many different shades, particularly those that cater to women of color. Lancome’s Teint Idole foundation also has 40 shades with 12 that are described as being deep to very deep. Make Up For Ever Ultra HD also boasts 40 shades and 13 of them are described as being deep to very deep. A close runner up, Sephora Collection’s 10 HR Wear Perfect Foundation has 37 shades with 9 that cater to deep to very deep skin tones.

I don’t think it will ever be possible for a makeup brand to carry a foundation that caters to every single person’s skin tone. With that being said, there is an incredible amount of work to be done (I’m looking at you, Dr. Jart—really, just two shades of BB Cream?) and I think the praise given to Fenty by so many is well-deserved. I give major props to Rihanna for being among the brands at Sephora who already offer many foundation shades. Here’s hoping that the industry continues to strive towards diversity and inclusion—and that Fenty is only the beginning.

So just how much does Fenty rival other top-selling foundations at Sephora in regards to their shade ranges?

“

36.

Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you’ve heard of Fenty Beauty. Fenty is Rihanna’s new makeup line that launched late this summer. It was widely cited as being incredibly inclusive, with its Pro Filt’r foundation spanning 40 different shades and a significant portion of those shades cater to women of color.

BURIED UNDER PRODUCTS:

releasing your healthy skin

by: Eveline Murphy-Wilson There are very few things I liked about being a “tween.”

In fact, there might only be one thing: the flawless skin. I didn’t appreciate it, though, until almost 10 years later. Once high school started, my care-free and perfect skin days were over. As if teenagers don’t have enough daily disasters, why not add a ton of red bumps to our faces? Being 18, I’m nearing the end of the hormonal chaos that encompasses the teen years. And let me tell you, from oily skin to dry skin to acne— it’s all still a problem. After years of different

treatments—both pharmaceutical and natural—I am not surprised by anything and will try everything.

I first found out that my acne was being noticed by others when my (at the time) 10-year-old cousin asked me, “Why are there red dots on your face?” I was absolutely mortified. Since that day, I’ve tried four face washes, three moisturizers, four prescribed topical acne treatment creams, and numerous, sometimes ridiculous, home remedies.

a natural approach Let’s start natural. Acne is incredibly specific; I know

people who get a pimple and wash their face with a warm washcloth and soap and their faces clear up.

Crisis avoided! So let me say now, if you don’t wash your face, start. A warm washcloth can work wonders.

I used to put baking soda on emerging pimples in an attempt to diminish them. Essentially baking soda, like water, can act as both an acid and a base depending on what it’s interacting with. If your skin has a pH imbalance (basically if your skin’s acid-to-base ratios are off), baking soda can restore the balance. Mix a bit of baking soda with water to make a paste-like consistency and let the mixture dry on your skin. Once it’s dry, you can gently remove it with a warm washcloth.

Other non-prescribed anti-acne treatments I’ve done have been dietary. I went gluten-free on multiple occasions for months at a time. Gluten acts as an inflammatory and the last thing I needed was for my already embarrassing skin to become inflamed! Going gluten-free worked really well for me, but it was hard to sustain.

Like everyone else, I crave a good cookie, some pasta, or a New York bagel every once in awhile. The second food group I swore off for a (short) period of time was dairy. There are a lot of hormones and cultures in dairy products and the last thing teenagers need is more hormones. My classic parenting line regarding these delicious food groups would be “everything in moderation.” I now eat dairy and gluten, but not too often and not in very large quantities. I highly encourage you to eat chèvre (cheese made from goat’s milk) every once in awhile instead of cheddar or to maybe get a corn tortilla instead of a wheat one.

To wrap up the natural “remedies,” I’m taking a page out of my dad’s advice book: sweat and exercise! There is no better way to clear all those toxins out of your pores than to just sweat them out. I do this through running, but whenever possible, I hop into a sauna. After I sweat it all out and wash my face, I finish up the process with a good ice bath facial or cold water to shrink my pores while they’re clean. It’s important not to do this while there’s still toxins in them or you’ll be in for a major break out!

a pharmecutical approach The prescribed topical creams have been more diffi-

cult to assess. My very unprofessional opinion is that after a while your body becomes immune to things like topical creams and it will go back to producing acne, excess oil, or whatever the problem may be. That’s why it’s important to find a diet and exercise routine that keeps your body healthy.

First of all, something to keep in mind when using a topical cream is that usually things have to get worse before they can get better. One that I used, a morning/ evening combo of Acnezone and Tazorac, was supposed to get my blackheads out. It got them out by turning my face into a garden of pimples. Needless to say, this is my least favorite acne treatment out of all the ones I’ve done.

When I first got acne I used Epiduo, a night time medication I would put on after washing my face. It worked pretty well for me for many years. Side note: Don’t get an eyebrow wax while on this because it thins your skin and leaves wounds where there would normally

be a nice eyebrow wax. I went off Epiduo because I still had pop-up pimples almost always and I wanted a completely clear face.

Lastwinter,IstartedDermologica’s“ClearStart”acnetreatment routine. It includes a face wash, toner, treatment gel, and matte moisturizer. I loved it! I’ve weeded out what products I actually need and which ones aren’t necessary. I am now working with the Clear Start Face Wash and “Daytimetreatment,”MarioBadescu’sOilFreeMoisturizer (it has a SPF 30 and sun can bring out acne scars/spots so it’s important to use sunscreen) in the morning, the Clear Start Face Wash, and Vanicream’s Lite Lotion for sensitive skin at night. To tackle my acne, I use an over-the-counter topicalcreamcalled“Differin”onceaday,afterwashingmy face at night.

Battling against acne is relentless, but not unique.

There are plenty of us out here scheming against acne and more than willing to pass along what few helpful tips we have.

38.

ASIAN VS. AMERICAN BEAUTY

By Zizhu Liu

Although people have been advocating for the idea of embracing one’s natural beauty, some are still seeking the traditional beauty standards they may not naturally have. Some people want tan skin even though there are health risks that come with it, and some people want bigger eyes even though they naturally have narrow-shaped eyes. All around the world, people have different beauty standards that are influenced by their own cultures.

I have been studying in the United States for five years. One of the many culture shocks that I am still experiencing is the cultural beauty differences in makeup and clothing. I believe you can illustrate part of your personality through what clothes you choose to wear or what color lipstick you apply to your lips.

During my first three years in America, I struggled to find who I was and how I wanted to represent the real me, because I was continually influenced by the two culture’s beauty standards. In my native country, I often get criticized (even by my parents) for my bold color of eyeshadow or my “weird” lip color. However, people in the United States often commend me on my makeup choice. This difference in opinion made me curious about beauty standards in Asia and in America.

While, in general, Asian cultures like a more cute and innocent look such as that of a Korean-pop star, Americans currently love “sexy” makeup looks such as big, prominent lips (ie. the Kardashians). I have found that there are four main differences between Asian and American makeup beauty. I researched how to achieve these two looks by different makeup methods. Through this process, I realized that my current makeup routine is the combination of these two different beauty standards. Through many makeup practices, I know how to apply the makeup that fits my features better. Everyone is unique and different in their natural beauty; the mainstream beauty trend probably will not suit everyone.

We can get some ideas or inspirations from the mainstream beauty trends, but we should not blindly follow them, or we will all look similar.

Contour/ Highlight

Eyebrow Foundation

5 beauty methods in Asian vs.

American beauty

Asian Cultures Prefer: foundation as one shade whiter than their original skin tone.

Product: BB cream is very popular.

Method: Apply BB cream all over your face.

Americans Prefer: one shade darker than the original skin tone Product: liquid or powder formulas Method: Apply foundation all over your face.

Asian Cultures Prefer: a soft brown and natural shape Product: brown eyebrow pencil Method: Outline the eyebrow based on the natural arch or shape (tends to be straight), fill them in, and brush it to make it more natural.

Americans Prefer: a definite shape and dark brow Product: eyebrow pencil and concealer Method: Outline the eyebrow on a natural arch or shape (tends to be thick and defined), fill them in, and brush the eyebrow.

Then, apply concealer underneath the brow to give a more sharp and defined shape.

Asian Cultures Prefer: a lightbrown and natural look Product: bronzer or light-brown eyeshadow Method: Apply bronzer between the corner of the eyebrow and nose bridge, and apply a light layer across the cheekbones.

Americans Prefer: a darkbrown and heavy highlight Product: contour palette Method: Apply dark bronzer on the cheekbones, forehead, nose and chin. Blend it in. Press the white powder under the eyes and below the cheekbones.

Note: Due to the face structure differences, Asian makeup artists do not emphasize the contour as much as American makeup artists.

Eye Asian Cultures Prefer: a light-brown eyeshadow with black or brown contacts Product: brown eyeliner pencil, contacts Method: Wear contacts so the eyes look bigger and apply a lightpink or brown hue on the whole eyelid.

Lastly, use a black or a brown eyeliner pencil to create a soft look.

Americans Prefer: a nude or smokey eye look with fake lashes and winged eyeliner Product: liquid eyeliner Method: Apply the nude or brown color all over the eyelid, draw a wingshape with the eyeliner, and apply fake lashes.

Lip Asian Cultures Prefer: a pink or an orange base shade Product: liquid lip stain Method: Apply in the center of the mouth, and dab around on the rest of your mouth.

Americans Prefer: a nude (depends on person’s original lip color) or bright color Product: matte lipstick Method: Outline the mouth first, and then apply the lipstick.

40.

BUSY GIRL DAY TO NIGHT MAKEUP TIPS

BY OLIVIA LUCAS

41.

I can say wholeheartedly that I believe being a junior in college is the busiest I will ever be. From early morning classes to my internship and then out with friends, I have a very limited amount of time to spend on doing my makeup. But, of course, I want to feel my best, and putting on a little concealer and bronzer allows me to do so. Getting ready in the morning is time consuming enough, and I occasionally do not have time to go home before going out. What is a gal to do? Solution: pack a bag with versatile makeup essentials and use these techniques to easily transform your everyday “school� makeup into makeup for a night on the town.

EVERYDAY “ SCHOOL” MAKEUP APPROXIMATELY: 5-10 MINUTES On an everyday basis, I usually only use concealer under my eyes, on my chin, down my nose and a little in between my eyebrows to conceal any redness, under eye bags or pimples I may have. I highly recommend the Tarte Shapetape Concealer. It has full coverage but blends effortlessly. For lighter coverage and a more natural finish, I use a damp beauty sponge. For the base, it is important to use your favorite products that you know will last throughout the day on your skin. To make sure the concealer stays in place, I set the areas with face powder. My all time favorite face powder for dry skin is the Cover FX powder in light, but any will do. A great drugstore alternative is the Maybelline Fit Me face powder.

The most important part of the everyday “school” makeup look is the bronzer. Bronzer brings life to your face and doubles as an eyeshadow, providing a quick and easy monochromatic look that is complete yet effortless. Use the bronzer on your cheeks and edges of your forehead with a fluffy powder brush for an overall bronzed look. Switching to a smaller, more densely packed brush, use the bronzer (if the correct shade) to chisel the cheeks and double as a subtle contour (this is optional, of course). My favorite bronzer to use as both an overall bronzer and contour is the Physician’s Formula Butter Bronzer. Take a fluffy eyeshadow brush and dust the bronzer into the crease of your eye and across your lids. This subtle wash of color will make a difference and define your eyes.

The last stages of the everyday look are to apply mascara of your choice and eyebrow products. My favorite mascara at the moment is the L’oreal Lash Paradise and my go-to eyebrow gel is the NYX brow mascara. This simple makeup routine takes me approximately 5 minutes and is effective in making me look awake and put together. You can always add other products, such as highlighter, for your day makeup, but I prefer to keep it quick and easy with the steps and products aforementioned.

TRANSFORMATION TO NIGHT MAKEUP APPROXIMATELY: 5-10 MINUTES I highly recommend packing a contour kit with a highlight shade that is usable. The Anastasia Beverly Hills contour kits have a beautiful pearlescent highlight that gets the job done and allows me to leave another highlight compact at home. Additionally, contour kits have great shades that can double as eyeshadows to deepen your eye look and make it much more “grungy” for night. Downside: Contour kits can take up space and, although the Anastasia kit is compact, it retails for $40. Do I believe it’s a good investment?

100%, but it is totally not necessary. You already have a nice contour from your day makeup (if you chose to do it) and therefore packing a highlighter will amp up the look by itself. Applying highlight to your cheekbones, bridge of nose, Cupid’s bow, and the tear duct of your eye will really transform the look. My all time favorite highlight is the Mary- Lou Manizer from The Balm, but a great drugstore alternative is the Master Chrome by Maybelline.

A key product in taking your makeup into night is the very affordable Elf Molten Liquid Eyeshadow. It is easy to apply and looks stunning on the eyes. Place the product on your lids using the doe-foot applicator and then blend out the liquid shadow by using tapping motions with your finger. It is quick and easy, and it looks as though you spent much more time doing your makeup. Plus, it lasts ALL night because of the liquid formula.

If you like blush, you should most definitely pack it for your night out! I tend to skip blush on the day-to-day basis, but if you are someone who wants a little extra flush of color on your cheeks, either I apply the blush in the morning or pack one for later. Blush is super easy to carry and apply on the go.

Finally, apply black eyeliner to your water line and another coat of mascara to finish off the look. The eyeliner is completely optional (I tend to personally skip it most nights), but it does make the look much more smokey and dramatic by defining the eyes. Apply a lipstick or lipgloss of your choice and you are ready to go! It may sound like a lot of stages and products, but you can really tailor the process to fit your needs. My night transformation takes me 10 minutes at the most.

43.

No matter what makeup you wear during the day and into the night, remember to have fun with it and use products that make you feel confident and comfortable in your skin. Some people will have a much longer routine and others will have a shorter, but these tricks and products have worked for me as a busy twenty year old, and hopefully will inspire you to still have fun with makeup on a time crunch!

WHAT TO PACK FOR YOUR N IGHTTIM E

MAKEUP:

CONTOUR KIT : MY GO-TO IS ANASTASIA BEVERLY HILLS BLUSH : MY GO-TO IS TARTE AMAZONIAN CLAY IN PAAARTY EYESHADOW: MY GO-TO IS ELF MOLTEN LIQUID IN MOLTEN BRONZE HIGHLIGHTER: MY GO-TO IS MARY-LOU MANZIER BY THE BALM EYELINER MASCARA LIPSTICK (optional, but encouraged)

(optional, but encouraged)

(optional, but encouraged)

“

NO MATTER WHAT MAKEUP YOU WEAR DURING THE DAY AND INTO THE NIGHT, REMEMBER TO HAVE FUN WITH IT AND USE PRODUCTS THAT MAKE YOU FEEL CONFIDENT AND COMFORTABLE IN YOUR SKIN. 44.

”

culture 45.

New York City: the powerhouse of contrasts, juxtapositions and contradictions. One tiny island (along with its four surrounding boroughs) is home to people of all walks of life: those of different ages, different nationalities and different cultures fill the streets of the city, and have found a way to coexist, only here. In New York, everyone has a story, a background, a way of life that penetrates the walls and borders of segregation, and instead offers a unique mosaic of diversity. This collective experience of New York that New Yorkers have come to know and love comes with several implications: from the obvious economic disparities between groups, to the differences in culture and practice, there’s a lot to observe about our city, if you take the time to look. From the looks of it, the gentrification in Harlem and the transformation of Brooklyn, suggests a privileged takeover, and repainting of street culture. At a closer glance, one can still see the nuances of New York city shine through. Only in New York will you find former prison inmates teaching workout classes at Saks Fifth Avenue, or witness the influence of rap music on the world of high end design and fashion. Only here, will you find a unique understanding of gay hookup culture, and see the changes of the city for what they really are. Only here, is it possible to flip the switch on what you think you’ve seen and you think you know. Welcome to Culture: the differences that bring us together.

46.

“YEEZY MADE an IT” By: Paige Bry

The beauty of fashion, and the self expression that seeps out of it, is its lack of limitations and infinite areas of influence, originating both from the cultural representations around them and the social experiences of life. Exclusive brands range from the new styles of V Files, Yeezy and Vetements, to more the timeless styles of Gucci, Chanel and Versace. Regardless of the evolutionary differences between these brands, they share a common factor: they use hiphop artists and rappers to push their brands success in new demographics.

No more than five years ago, seeing rappers and hip-hop artists at Fashion Week would feel out of place. Today, these artist cement importance and draw attention in the cultural and social world of fashion and media. YG’s 2016 outfit of Toms and a bullet-proof vest at the Golf Wang Fashion Show is still being discussed as an iconic look.

47.

Hip-hop and high-brow fashion juxtapose each other in the most complimentary of ways: Migos in Versace silk shirts reignited what it meant to be young and rich; Cardi B and OffSet attending Helmut Lang at New York Fashion Week changed who matters in the front row of a catwalk. What exactly makes this juxtaposition of exclusive brands and club-hit innovators so marketable and appealing to consumers?

The undeniable contrast between hiphop and fashion comes to light through classism and racism. Hip-hop is often described as vulgar, sexual, and graphic; primarily dominated by low-income black men that now have achieved social mobility, status, and wealth. This image conflicts with the image surrounding luxury brands like Gucci, Versace, and Louis Vuitton: elitist, white Americans living in the Upper East Side surrounded by generational wealth.

lyrics.= For these exclusive brands, they found a marketing platform that was already devoted to brand image and catered to a demographic they couldn’t capture. The hypervisibility of these artists means that brands can sell their products by simply having a rapper wear their pieces in music videos, award shows, or even everyday Instagram posts.

What allows for this coexistence? Brands don’t have to address diversity or classism; they can have A$AP Rocky as the face of Dior Homme, and disregard that he was the first person of color to be the front of the label. Through the amalgamation of the worlds of music and fashion, exclusive brands claim the center of media and pop culture while maintaining the structures of their success. Structures that came from primarily white models at runway shows and in advertisements, effectively pitching a lifestyle of elite white America to white America.

As little as ten years ago fashion brands wouldn’t even entertain the idea of including rap artists within their sphere. Burberry ignored requests from stylist Rachel Johnson to style Ja Rule for future events, after his hit classic “Always on Time,” sparked the Burberry trend in the early 2000s. Things only changed when hip-hop became not only mainstream but international.

Rappers became the faces of the culture - redefining what it meant to be current through slang, dress, and knowledge of popular rap

In an interview with Complex, Quavo references Gucci as “a hood designer. Gucci has always been inthehood.”TakeOffexpressesasimilarsentiment with Louis Vuitton, suggesting they bring “out the ‘90s swag, cause we the ‘90s babies, so that’s what we ‘bout to bring to the game.” Beyond a love for the decadent brands, rappers take on brands as an image; Gucci Mane quite literally mainly wears Gucci. Gucci has been a status of wealth since 1921, but within the past few years, Gucci has not shied away from their unofficial brand ambassadors— rather, they’ve catered to the youth that follow rap icons and brought forth styles and patterns, fitting of a Wes Anderson movie, that attract aspiring (and wealthy) 20-somethings into their stores.

As this new demographic of high-end shoppers becomes younger, the demands of diversity and equality become louder. The reality of hip-hop and fashion’s juxtaposition lies in the fact they were never meant to be together. The hypervisibly of rappers brings these brands into the forefront of an already competitive game, as they want, but it also brings them to forefront of public scrutiny. If these brands desire to remain current within pop culture they need to play the game by new rules.

Young shoppers want brands that are more than name value only, they want brands that reflect in equality and diversity that society moves towards. High fashion is changing and this new mix of hip-hop and luxury is a strong force behind it.

Gay Sex and the City

By Drew Haste When I’m not on Grindr looking for “right now,” I’m swiping through Tinder or Bumble looking for my next not-so-sleazy hookup, maybe even my Prince Charming. Nights spent swiping are a result of gay dating being virtual reality. Gay dating lives on grimey apps like Grindr, Scruff, Tinder, etc., plagued by older men looking to get their fix with a younger guy. And this is our gay culture, a culture of sexual promiscuity, of 30 hookups where you barely remember the guy’s name, let alone what he looked like. Is this really the entirety of gay culture? Are we not more than just an orgasm to each other?

Gay people are perceived as promiscuous because this is all we are taught to be. Society wants to vilify homosexuals as proprietors of sex and only sex because they are uncomfortable with the idea of a nuclear family consisting of same-sex parents. Anything other than a married cis-gender man and woman is different, and therefore wrong, blasphemous even. For years, the LGBT community has been pushed aside, discriminated against, beaten mercilessly in the streets because of their “otherness.”

When society decided it did not want to normalize homosexuality as it does heterosexuality and heteronormative behaviors, we succumbed and became what society told us we were: sinful, sex-crazy, and strung-out.

Donna Freitas’ work, Sex and the Soul, is a testament to gay promiscuity; “If you’re gay, there is no dating...It’s all about lust, attraction, physical appearance, maybe money, ‘if you’re into that’” (141). All that seems to matter in the gay world is the number of abs you have and the symmetry of your face, two components that are the driving force of sex. The absence of a good physique, youth, or striking looks can leave one accidentally chaste, unless they are willing to be “generous;” something often messaged to young boys by older men. This is essentially how the gay world of dating works, the hotter you are, or your pictures are, the more you are able to hookup, and thus the more promiscuous you are. You

become nothing more than your looks; everyone is always giving you attention because you are young and hot but all they ever want from you is sex, never a date or a relationship. They just want a quickie in the bathroom to say they “hit that” and then to move

“We are living in a generation of digital dating and “hookup culture” where fancy dinner dates are no longer a reality and swiping through Tinder late on a Friday night counts as looking for a relationship.” on with their lives. And this vanity-based anti-relationship ideology is only furthered by the invention of dating and hookup apps.

We are living in a generation of digital dating and “hookup culture” where fancy dinner dates are no longer a reality and swiping through Tinder late on a Friday night counts as looking for a relationship.

This pushes gay men further towards the stereotypical definition of a promiscuous homosexual. In the words of Jake Nevins of New York Magazine, “Sex is a laughably easy procedure thanks to Grindr, especially being in New York City.” In my experience, Nevins’ words are indisputable. Thanks to Fordham’s proximity to Hell’s Kitchen, I can pull up Grindr on my phone, talk to someone for about ten minutes and then be at their apartment in another five, knowing nothing about them other than that they’re looking to fuck.

How did we become like this? I wasn’t born looking for an emotionless hookup. I grew up thinking that to be gay was to buy a one-way ticket to Hell. I grew up thinking it was weird to see two men kiss in the middle of the street.

I grew up thinking that the gay lifestyle was not one that had a place in society; all I knew about gay culture was that it was an escape from reality for the suburban Annapolis moms wanting to go to a gay bar in Rehoboth Beach. The gay community is treated as a separate world; it is alienated instead of allowed to normalize and assimilate into hetero-based culture.

But in alienating the LGBT community, we foster their promiscuity. This is exemplified in the lack of public displays of affection between gay couples. In Sex and the Soul, a gay interviewee stated, “the best night of [his] life was ‘when a boy I fell for kissed me in a crowd full of people at a parade and then held my hand for the rest of the night.’” One simple display of affection between two gay men is titanic in meaning because of how subversive it is of the heteronormative culture all children are brought up with. Two gay men cannot walk down the street without being subjected to stares and possible ridicule, even in this day and age.

Because of the stares and overall panic one feels while holding a partner’s hand in public, many gays are more confined to the home or their bedroom for any displays of affection. For gay men, the bedroom is a private space where their sexuality can be exercised. In addition, two men sharing dinner and/ or being affectionate while on a first date is also subject to stares and solicitation so much so that it is easier to go over to a random person’s apartment, have sex, and then leave without any evidence of the incident ever taking place. We would rather use quick, random hookups to pretend that our interactions never truly happened than to be open and affectionate with a partner in public where we are subject to ridicule.

sex with men, are you really gay? Of course you can be gay and celibate, but due to the heteronormative ideology surrounding sexual identity, gay men feel that they must prove themselves by having sex with other men often enough to be secure in their identity. Almost every gay man has probably heard something along the lines of “How do you know you’re gay if you haven’t had sex with a man?” This idea never leaves us. It is imbedded into our core so much so that we feel as though we must be continually hooking up to actually be gay.

Gay men are learned in the ways of homosexual promiscuity before they even have their first feelings for another man. We are taught in our youth that the gay lifestyle is bad because it is centered around sex—gay doesn’t evoke feelings of love, but images of two men fucking each other. Even gay movies are almost always sex-focused. The only normalized gay relationships that are publicized are those on TV that are so rare the public would rather the gay community remain the villain, a promiscuous community that they should do without.

Don’t grant them marriage, equal rights, or adoption rights, for that would be to equate them with the average human when they are less. We are kept in a box instead of being allowed into the world with all of the “normal” people, when that is all we really want: not to be perceived as sex-crazed but to be a regular part of society as opposed to the oddity we continue to be.

In addition to the aversion to public displays of affection, gay men also tend to be more promiscuous due to the perception that sexual activity is what proves your sexual identity. If you are not having

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FROM THE CUP TO THE STREETS:

GENTRIFICATION IN HARLEM If another trendy, new coffee shop were to pop up by Lincoln Center, no one would bat an eye.

Just another hipster café—nothing groundbreaking about that. Transplant that trendy, new coffee shop to a previously closed storefront in Harlem, however, and it ushers in a host of socioeconomic implications.

The string of coffee shops that are opening in Harlem neighborhoods are attracting more than coffee aficionados and tired college students. An article published on the New York Daily News back in 2014 revealed that new real estate agents are selling retail spaces for lesser values or discounted rates if the buyers are considered “fashionable.”

These buyers settle into their new space with their artisanal coffee gear and the promise to attract a

BY ALEJANDRA GARCIA

making it impossible for Harlem natives to continue residing in the place they call home.

Historic establishments that once hosted iconic figures such as Duke Ellington and Malcolm X are being closed down because they are not generating a great amount of revenue or touristic appeal. The old is being replaced with the new: pristine storefronts, including hipster cafes and Whole Foods. Many Harlem residents are finding, or have already found, that they cannot keep up with the rent inflation permeating their neighborhoods. They are forcefully uprooted from their homes and displaced, while self-professed coffee connoisseurs struggle to craft Yelp reviews that perfectly sum up their thoughts on the quality of the “free” wifi that they got alongside their cold brew.

“What Harlem residents need is not a string of new, hip study spaces, rather a unified effort to diminish gentrification.” different demographic to Harlem. Take Manhattanville Coffee on Edgecombe Avenue, for example: a cozy coffee shop with perfectly distressed leather couches, rustic wooden tables, and lattes priced at $4.00-$4.50. Before its establishment on the ground floor of its building, the upstairs units were not considered desirable. However, after it moved into the neighborhood, tenants bought out all of the upstairs units, which were sold at $500,000 each.

Real estate agents may look at these numbers and scramble to buy out seemingly unprofitable buildings in Harlem; however, they are subsequently pushing out residents who have always known Harlem as home. What outsiders view as cultural upgrades incarnated in sleek coffee shops, are actually degrading Harlem’s rich culture. These establishments may be a new source of revenue for real estate agents and entrepreneurs, but they are

What Harlem residents need is not a string of new, hip study spaces, rather a unified effort to diminish gentrification. Many Harlem natives do not have the opportunity to open upscale coffee shops on the ground floor of their apartment complexes.

However, if these coffee shops are truly here to stay, they must recognize the communities they are inserting themselves into, as well as the complex set of issues these communities have historically been dealt.

It is by no means a mortal sin to buy an over-priced cup of coffee once in awhile. However, consumerism requires an acknowledgment of responsibility. Being educated about the communities that are impacted by certain establishments is important, as is a commitment to supporting these communities in their struggle to uphold their traditions and spirit in the face of systematic oppression.

52.

The Prison On Fifth

By Sophie Ambro

One boring summer day in July, stuck in my Long Island suburban town, I was mindlessly clicking link after link on the internet dreaming about getting back into the city as soon as possible. Even though it meant the start of a new semester filled with hours of reading textbooks and writing papers, I could not wait to return to Manhattan. In between reading about the newest vegan restaurant that just opened and the independent bookstores that I always tell myself I am going to go to but never do, I came across an article about a new prison-style workout class, Conbody, in the luxury department store Saks Fifth Avenue. Right away I thought, “What in the world is a prison-styled workout class? And, how does it end up in Saks?”

I went to the Conbody website and learned it is a workout class styled after the workouts done by inmates in prison. In fact, all of the instructors were formerly incarcerated. After watching the introductory video on the website’s homepage, I learned that the founder of the company, Coss Marte, thought up the idea for the class while he was in solitary confinement. He said, “I wanted to create something special and different.”

That he did. Conbody is like no other workout I have ever experienced. Heading down Fifth Avenue on my way to my first class, I couldn’t help but think “What am I getting myself into?”

Walking in front of Cartier and Versace, I could see the big windows up ahead that I knew were Saks and I could feel the butterflies lightly turn my stomach into a knot. I had no clue what to expect. I walked through the front door into the first floor beauty department. I immediately asked the security guard if Conbody was on the second floor because the last thing I wanted to do was get lost, wandering around Saks in my workout clothes. Once he assured me I was headed in the right direction I took off down the golden, perfume-scented aisle towards the elevators in the

back of the store. Even though I was decked out in my best Lululemon outfit, I couldn’t help but feel like all eyes were on me. It felt wrong to be in Saks in workout clothes with no makeup on. It was as if I had worn jeans to the prom.

After getting on the wrong elevator that went directly to shoes on the eighth floor, I found my way to the second floor. Unbeknownst to me, the entire second floor had been transformed into a health and wellness wonderland called The Wellery. With everything from virtual golfing to a nail salon, hydrogen-infused water to highend workout clothes, Saks’ second floor had been transformed into a fitness junkie’s dream.

There on the left was the grey walls and chain link fence of Conbody.

The only thing between the class and the rest of the shoppers was a metal fence like that in a prison yard. Thankfully, class members face away from the store so we did not have to see the people stopping and staring at us, although I could feel their eyes on the back of my neck throughout the entire class. Surprisingly, it didn’t bother me or make me self-conscious—instead, the watchful eyes motivated me and made me push myself even harder.

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I got the chance to interview the founder of Conbody, Coss Marte. He said the mission statement of his business was, “to hire as many formerly incarcerated people as possible, give them a second chance and break down the stereotypes about formerly incarcerated people.” He has created a way for reformed inmates to shed their past and use their time to help other people get healthy. It is a win-win. He describes landing the spot in Saks as “just luck.”

After delivering the keynote speech at the FounderMade summit for entrepreneurs, his inspiring story of a drug kingpin turned entrepreneur giving released inmates a real opportunity to re-enter society and be productive members jumped out to Misha Vayner, Saks’ manager of leased departments.

When approached about the idea, Marte says, “I didn’t think twice about it.” And, while he couldn’t give many details, he did reveal that Conbody has plans to expand to other locations around the city.

The female instructor wasn’t scary or intense like I had been worried about. She was very friendly and motivating. The first thing she said at the start of class was, “your body, your pace, so push yourself.” It was just the inspiration I needed to make me forget my nerves and feel pumped up, ready to go. Not once during the entire 45 minutes did it cross my mind that this woman had been in prison. At Conbody, she wasn’t a criminal, she was the instructor. I learned from Marte that Conbody has a partnership with city and state prisons. Inmates are trained while they serve their time so that when they are released they have a job ready and waiting for them.

Having this prison-style workout and former-inmate instructors among the designer shoes and clothes of Saks gives support to rehabilitated convicts attempting to re-enter society. Saks could have chosen any number of the boutique fitness studios that are available in New York City. They could have easily found one more popular and bougie. Instead, they decided to shine a spotlight on Conbody and show their clientele that former inmates are regular human beings attempting to better their lives like everyone else.

The activities of the class are typical conditioning drills that many workout enthusiasts would be fa-

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miliar with. It includes jumping jacks, inchworms, squats, burpees, jump backs, push ups, crunches, planks, and leg lowers. Marte designed the workout while in prison, blending inmate exercises with the bootcamp treatment he received as part of his “shock incarceration” (a bootcamp, military style prison).

After the warm up, there are four circuits: cardio, legs, arms, and core. For each, there are 3 exercises done: 3 rounds for 1 minute each. Much to my surprise, I was soaked with sweat by the end of the first circuit. By the end of the second, there was a brief moment I thought I might throw up but I pushed that thought far back in my mind and kept going. Before I knew it, the class was over and we were on the floor stretching.

For some reason it hadn’t crossed my mind before the start of the class that we would be working out with no equipment. I thought maybe there would be weights or something. But no, it was just me.

Working out with no equipment was a very humbling experience. The only thing I had in that moment was my body and it was entirely up to me whether I pushed myself or not. There was no machine, weight, or strap to think about (or blame), it was all on me.

After the class, I exited the dark, prison-styled area and I walked back through the bright, new second floor, this time planning on taking the escalator so I didn’t end up back with the Jimmy Choos sweaty and red-faced. Whether it was the endorphins or the relief of the class being over, I didn’t feel so out of place this time as I walked back through the beauty department, still golden and scented. I felt good. In my mind I was already thinking about when I could come back to take another class.

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.54.

“ [Saks] could have easily found

one more popular and bougie.

Instead, they decided to shine a spotlight on Conbody and show their clientele that former inmates are regular human beings attempting to better their

lives like everbody else.�

56.

thoughts from a disillusioned humanist

bitchin’ in Brooklyn:

By Sophie Guimaraes

Brooklyn is a concentrated punch of the much sought-after “cool.”

It’s the land of the hipsters, a place where millennials go to frolic in a borough that they perceive to be their own. A general sense of “cool” abounds among the coffee shops, cafés, and murals. But “cool” is illusive and elusive. The Brooklyn of the past has been erased and replaced by something manufactured and imposed. Its soul has been painted over like the murals that everyone flocks to see.

On one particular weekend, I was off to see Refinery 29’s exhibition 29 Rooms like the rest of New York’s trendy millennials. It was my first time in Brooklyn and none of my friends could read a subway map, so after a hellish ordeal underground, we finally arrived in Bushwick only to discover that at the hour of its opening, 29 Rooms had closed its line.

“ The Brooklyn of the past has

been erased and replaced by something manufactured and imposed. Its soul has been painted over like the murals that everyone flocks to see.

”

So we wandered. Industrial buildings three-stories high stared back at me; this was Morgan Avenue. I found myself in a curated boutique with racks of edgy clothes, but the place proved to be a glorified Urban Outfitters complete with glorified prices. The rejects of 29 Rooms swam like fish in a vintage sea. In the middle of the room lay plants for sale, succulents and little

potted trees destined to accent a refurbished apartment. There was even a rack of clothes that were allegedly pulled from designer Donna Karen’s “inspiration closet.” Wow, I thought to myself, this is the most Brooklyn place I have ever seen.

But I knew nothing about Brooklyn and what it stands for: I only knew the stereotypes. So I shrugged off the thoughts and moved on to a new destination, which was a small art gallery next door. The walls were studded with unconventionally-shaped canvases, large circles and triangles and hexagons, all smeared with vivid colors. Despite their aesthetic appeal, they seemed void of any meaning. I looked over at the artist manning the door and I wondered how he made money. I thought about the astronomical rent in the area and realized that here, the “struggling artist” trope was a shell of what it once was.

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“ The specific kind of “cool” that

pervades the borough today isn’t decades old. It’s new, imposed, and above all: commodified. The grungy glamour of Brooklyn—the fashionable millennials, the street art, the music scene—is just a surface-level representation of what Brooklyn actually is.

”

Next up was a furniture shop. It was basically just a room taken out of an impeccably planned apartment—too clean and too cohesive, its image controlled in every way. Even the quirky plants at the doorway seemed hand-picked, void of effortlessness. Soon after, I popped into one of those organic grocery stores to buy a protein bar made solely of nuts, dates, and egg whites. I scoured for more food options. Outside of 29 Rooms, there was an ice cream truck that served seven-dollar cones. Seven dollars. I could be dying of heat stroke and I wouldn’t pay that much for a basic ice cream cone. But it was hot, and there was a line, and in Brooklyn ice cream is cool. Literally.

Eventually, we ran into a classmate from Queens. She told us that the Bushwick Collective was a cool place to go, and it was. It was cool. But there is something eerie about colorful murals painted onto walls that once witnessed a way of life unknown to the rich white kids who currently invade the area. Then again, there is also something beautiful about a plain industrial wall transformed by the seductive power of art. But what is decidedly unsexy is that Brooklyn’s past identity has been literally and figuratively painted over. What remains on the surface is forced and forged. Brooklyn hasn’t been a magnet for affluent millennials until recently; it feels like the rich white kids dragged the borough into a corner and beat it until it puked ripped jeans, rainbows, and Urban Outfitters.

As I meandered through the streets, I couldn’t help but wonder who used to live here and what this place looked like twenty years ago. How different was it? Was it cool without trying to be, inspiring the reputation of modern-day Brooklyn? The specific kind of “cool” that pervades the borough today isn’t decades old. It’s new, imposed, and above all: commodified. The grungy glamour of Brooklyn—the fashionable millennials, the street art, the music scene—is just a surface-level representation of what Brooklyn actually is.

Granted, I’ve been overly cynical since I’ve come to New York. For years I’ve held the hopelessly romantic belief that New York is the most authentic place in the world. I came here searching for that authenticity. New York, to me, has always been at the heart of the true American dream—anyone can come here and make it. Here, there is a wealth of opportunities for all. But as I’ve thought about it more, it struck me that anyone with money can make it; New York yields to the privileged. Brooklyn is no different. In past decades, a different culture existed in Brooklyn, a culture that few kids today know about—I sure as hell don’t. And it’s sad. The word “gentrification” in the context of Brooklyn is uttered so often that it starts to sound alien, starts to sound like nothing. But it means everything, and you can find the quiet beast crouching in every neighborhood.

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the seven not-so deadly sins Within these pages you’ll find our modern spin on the seven so-called sins. From practicing self care to channeling anger into social change, we’ve reimagined each sin through a lens of female-centric power.

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Lust

Sloth

WRATH

pride

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envy

greed

gluttony

credits All uncredited layout designed

Trend Watch: Athleisure by Sibel Iskender

by the FLASH creative team.

Photographer: Sibel Iskender

Eclectic Confidence by Peri Rohl Illustrations: Emma Childs Model: Peri Rohl Traveling Through Time with Fashion by Doreen Wang Photographer: Alana Higa Model: Doreen Wang Design: Bawila Idris Homelessness: A Societal Crisis or Fashion Trend? by Helen Spyropulos Photographer: Helen Spyropulos Model: Will Christmann The Art of Mixing Prints by Braylee LeClair Photographer: Braylee LeClair Model: Tigerlily Cooley Design: Finley Peay The Convergence of Casual and Classy by Connor Howlett Photographer: Annie Dreyer Model: Connor Howlett

Models: Cameryn Martin, Gina Taddeo, Sophie Guimaraes Design: Fefi Martinez Fashion vs. Function by Nishita Naga Photo: Andrew Haste Gloss Boss by Gillian Russo Illustrations: Emma Childs Express Yourself! - Minimalist and Glamorous Makeup Looks by Mary Wood Photographer: Resham Sansi Models: Ruby Gara and Carrie Kinui Design: Katherine Mills Breaking the Stereotypes of Dance by Kristen Williams Photographer: Abigail Joyce Models: Sequoia Aya How Revolutionary Is Fenty Beauty? By Lauren Middleton Illustrations: Emma Childs

Buried Under Products: Releasing Your Healthy

The Prison on Fifth Ave by Sophie Ambro

Skin by Eveline Murphy-Wilson

Photographer: Sophie Ambro

Photographer: Kyra Conroy Design: Finley Peay

Bitchin’ in Brooklyn: Thoughts from a Disillusioned Humanist by Sophie Guimaraes

Asian vs. American Beauty by Zizhu Liu

Photos: Kyra Conroy

Photographer: Maria Pustinger

Model: Sophie Guimaraes

Models: Doreen Wang and Zizhu Liu

Design: Claudia Westby

Design: Fefi Martinez Section Spread Busy Girl Day to Night Makeup Tips by Olivia

Photos: Sophie Ambro

Lucas

Illustrations: Emma Childs

Photographer: Olivia Lucas Editorial Photo Shoot Yeezy Made It by Paige Bryan

Photos: Kyra Conroy, Hannah McKracken,

Illustrations: Bawila Idris

Olivia Lucas, Michelle D’Alessandro, Emma

Design: Bawila Idris Gay Sex and the City by Andrew Haste Illustrations: Carmen Recio Design: Margot Morgan From the Cup to the Streets: Gentrification in Harlem by Alejandra Garcia Photographer: Hannah McKracken Design: Tigerlily Cooley and Alana Higa

Childs Models: Leah Johnson, Marien Alejandro, Caroline Shriver, Sami Jumper, Alison Dalafave, Beatriz Martinez-Godas, Sharita Passariello, Samantha Moura, Peri Rohl Cover photos: Kyra Conroy and Emma Childs