Fleurieu Living Magazine Spring 2018

FLEURIEU LIVING T H E B E S T O F S O U T H A U S T R A L I A’ S F L E U R I E U P E N I N S U L A A N D K A N G A R O O I S L A N D

FLEURIEU LIVING MAGAZINE www.fleurieuliving.com.au SPRING 2018

AU $9.95 SPRING 2018

Labour of love: An artist’s home in Hayborough Victor Harbor: Affectionately known as Victor The magic of biodynamics A home with a heart in Willunga The China Files: Vinexpo Through the eyes of a local: Kangaroo Island Woven acts and spoken maps: The artwork of Laura Wills Living it up at the Hotel California (Road) Art · Design · Food · Wine · Fashion · Photography · People · Destinations

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Celebrate life as a learning community with

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Kangaroo Island

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Delights at every turn.

Galilee Catholic School

Kangaroo Island is a heaven for the senses, with gourmet foods, cellar door experiences and scenery that will take your breath away.

It's takes just 45 minutes to get there on SeaLink's car and passenger ferry, but feels like a million miles away.

As Australia's third largest island, with 509km of coastline, there's raw beauty and attractions galore.

Drive your own car, or hire one. There's also our great 2 Day Food, Wine and Natural Wonders Tour if you don't want to do the driving.

Discover Kangaroo Island... it really is like no other place on earth.

CAPE JERVIS

EMU BAY KINGSCOTE

PENNESHAW PARNDANA

AMERICAN RIVER Cape Willoughby Lighthouse

Little Sahara VIVONNE BAY

Seal Bay

Admirals Arch Remarkable Rocks

At Galilee we pride ourselves on nurturing curious minds and reaching beyond through deep, engaged, inquiry based learning.

Through nature play, a rich curriculum and a child driven, organic learning philosophy we support a balance of education, creativity and physical activity.

Our students are valued as strong, capable and resilient citizens that are respectful stewards of our environment. Along with the standard Australian Curriculum, our faith-centred programs equip students with essential life skills; enriched with wonder, knowledge and self-belief.

Primary school learning at Galilee is inspired by the Reggio Emilia approach and guided by our vision Together We Grow.

Book your experience today. Call 13 13 01 or visit sealink.com.au *Per person, twin share, includes return ferry with own car (up to 5m in length), staying at Fig Tree B&B with 3 nights for price of 2. Valid for travel to 30/9/18.

We invite you and your family to attend a Principal’s tour.

Please contact us on 8557 9000 for further information.

Like us on Facebook • www.galilee.catholic.edu.au

STAFF & CONTRIBUTORS

Key Personnel Petra de Mooy While juggling content this issue Petra thoroughly enjoyed participating in the foundations module of the Fleurieu Future Leaders program and has been on cloudnine ever since.

Jason Porter Jason has worked as a graphic designer and creative director both locally and overseas for over thirty years.

When not in the office, he can usually be found tweaking the crossover filters on his ridiculously over-the-top hi-fi system.

Esther Thorn Esther Thorn is a storyteller. She has worked as a journalist for twenty years in print, radio and television. Esther believes small things, like commas and apostrophes, are important. This makes her an irritating dinner guest but a good editor.

Holly Wyatt A self-described ‘city-escapee,’ Holly moved to the Fleurieu chasing wide-open spaces and the spoils of semi-rural life. Those spoils include a good coffee in the morning, a glass of wine in the evening and a bountiful supply of inspiration for her art, music and work.

Lulu Our company mascot Lulu started appearing in way too many of our Instagram posts – so now she has her own profile (sad, we know) where you can follow her charmed life. Search for ‘miss_majestica’ if you’re so inclined.

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Featured Contributors Kate Le Gallez Kate started her working life in the corporate world as a lawyer and consultant, before turning a lifelong love of writing into a career. After 10 years in Melbourne, she recently moved back home to South Australia with her family, landing in Port Elliot. She’s excited to be exploring her new community notepad (and laptop) in hand, telling some of the Fleurieu’s many and varied stories. Kate confesses to suffering a mild podcast addiction, which results in her annoying overuse of the phrase ‘I was listening to a podcast … ’ as a conversation starter.

She also needs to stop buying somany house plants.

Paige Olsen Paige has been involved in the healing arts for 20 years. She is an acupuncturist and Chinese Medicine practitioner from California and is passionate about learning and sharing anything to do with internal martial arts and Chinese medicine. She moved to the Fleurieu Peninsula three years ago with her husband and dog.

They now feel very fortunate to call Aldinga their home.

Publisher Information Melanie Amos Mel is a foodie from way back, who loves nothing more than sharing good food with the people she loves. She lives by the words of Virginia Woolf that ‘one cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well.’ Mel started her catering business, The Fleurieu Kitchen, six years ago and originally specialised in her one true love – patisserie. She has since branched out into a more diverse range of food, now focussing on recipe development, her food blog www.thefleurieukitchen.com.au, and the occasional catering job.

She lives in Aldinga Beach with her husband and two children.

Other contributing writers and photographers Annabel Bowles, Melissa Brown, Robert Geh, Kimberley Goodman, Gill Gordon-Smith, Mark Laurie, Nicole Leedham, Heidi Lewis, Angela Lisman, Fulvia Mantelli, Marcus Syvertsen and Corrina Wright.

PUBLISHER Fleurieu Living Magazine is published four times a year by Fleurieu Living Pty Ltd. ISSN 2200-4033 PUBLISHING EDITOR AND MANAGING DIRECTOR Petra de Mooy petra@fleurieuliving.com.au EDITOR Thanks again to guest editor Nicola Gage.

ADVERTISING SALES Holly Wyatt holly@fleurieuliving.com.au GRAPHIC DESIGNER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jason Porter jason@fleurieuliving.com.au PRINTER Graphic Print Group DISTRIBUTION Integrated Publication Solutions SUBSCRIPTIONS Print: isubscribe.com.au Digital: zinio.com ALL ENQUIRIES Petra de Mooy petra@fleurieuliving.com.au POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 111, Aldinga, South Australia 5173.

ONLINE fleurieuliving.com.au facebook.com/FleurieuLivingMagazine instagram.com/fleurieulivingmagazine/ COPYRIGHT All content copyright Fleurieu Living Magazine Pty Ltd unless otherwise stated.

While Fleurieu Living Magazine takes every care to ensure the accuracy of information in this publication, the publisher accepts no liability for errors in editorial or advertising copy. The views of the contributors are not necessarily endorsed by Fleurieu Living Magazine.

Printed on paper from well managed forests and controlled sources using environmentally friendly vegetable-based inks.

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THIS ISSUE

Contents

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FEATURED HOME: A labour of love: An artist’s home in Hayborough.

FEATURED HOME: A home with a heart in Willunga.

FRONT COVER PHOTO:

by Robert Geh.

FOOD AND WINE

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

36 Uncorked – wine reviews by

award-winning Gill Gordon-Smith.

102 Shimmer Photographic Biennale.

92 Food & wine matching: Settle into the

taste of spring.

82 More than a market: Willunga

Farmers’ Market.

91 Fresh Whites: Drink them with friends

and celebrate the arrival of spring!

24 The China files: Flying the Fleurieu flag

in Hong Kong.

84 Inkwell Wines: Living it up (sustainably)

at the Hotel California.

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94 Field Good Festival at Almas

Hem – Inman Valley.

28 Handpicked Festival at Lake

Breeze Wines.

DIARY DATES 12 To keep you in the swing of things

this spring.

BOOKS AND WORDS 34 Great spring reads by Mark Laurie of

South Seas Books at Port Elliot.

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GREEN LIVING FEATURE: The magic of biodynamics.

FEATURED ARTIST: Laura Wills.

50 FEATURED TOWN: Victor Harbor: Affectionately known as Victor.

HEALTH & WELLBEING

ENTREPRENEUR

GREEN LIVING

72 The importance of a daily practise.

66 Changing the game: Marie Sulda.

76 The magic of biodynamics.

DESTINATION

ART AND DESIGN

BEING SOCIAL

96 Through the eyes of a local:

Kangaroo Island.

74 Boutique and Unique: Bernadette

Kelly’s sculptural wall-hangings.

50 Victor Harbor: Affectionately known

as Victor.

38 The house of imagination:

Jo Eastaff’s Middleton home.

WEDDINGS

30 Woven Acts and Spoken Maps:

The artwork of Laura Wills.

106 Carli and David Laws:

27th April 2018.

68 Janet Ayliffe: A life of work, love

and memories.

110 FLM sees who was out and about at:

· FLM 6th Anniversary at Inkwell Wines

· Fleurieu Biennale Opening

· Tatachilla Year 12 Formal at Serafino

· Alexandrina Business Life Breakfast

· Common Ground Exhibition: Fleurieu Arthouse

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ACKNOWLEDGES

A special thanks to the advertising partners that have made a long term commitment to FLM. GOLD PARTNERS

BRONZE PARTNERS

il (Bookings 03 9005 7750) ad, Goolwa on 8 and 9 April ographic Exhibition at wa from 9 to 23 April Mike - Kids Magic y Hall, Goolwa on 17 April den Boat Festival at the n 22 and 23 April el Griffiths at Centenary

Silent Disco 4 Kids Party at Strathalbyn Library Community Centre on 27 April *Sista Girl, at Centenary Hall, Goolwa on 5 May Our Mob 2015, Aboriginal arts at Signal Point Gallery, Goolwa from 5 May to 11 June Good Things Small Packages, at South Coast Regional Art Centre, Goolwa from 5 May to 18 June *Goodbye Yellow Brick Road - The Elton John Tribute Show at Centenary Hall, Goolwa on 20 May * tickets/ booking required

ll Council’s Visitor Information Centre on 1300 466 592. Alexandrina Council a copy online for more events in the region, www.alexandrina.sa.gov.au

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Welcome to FLM From the FLM team As we lift our eyes from our desks and look outside, the sky is blue. The sour sobs are knee deep from not enough time spent in the garden, but our spring issue is out for another year. There is so much great content in this issue (even if we do say so ourselves)!

Pedaling at full pace to end of production, we can pause and reflect on what we have been marinating in for the past season – rediscovering some of our favourite local holiday destinations, meeting dynamic stylists, humble creatives, bold winemakers, future Fleurieu leaders, inspiring homes and spaces, new enterprises and anchored establishments of the region. Each season there is a constant swell of rich content and imagery that never ceases to inspire us.

In this issue we have once again created a town feature with a pullout map. This issue focuses on Victor Harbor – affectionately known as Victor. We asked some of the locals what makes Victor great – and while we could not fit it all into the feature, we thought these responses were worth sharing: Justin Thompson (from All Sweets and Treats) Victor Harbor is South Australia’s premier coastal destination with a great natural environment including the beaches and granite island, fantastic heritage with the causeway, the horse-drawn tram and whale centre, plus an excellent variety of shops. The community is special because living and working here is always like a holiday!

Kirsten Pitman (from Loco, Victor Harbour) Lifestyle was a big consideration for us, and our children are growing up in a beautiful part of the world surrounded by people who know and care for them. I love that coming to work is like catching up with friends every day, seeing our regular customers and keeping in touch with all that goes on in our small community.

Yasmin Stehr (from Oceanic Victor) Victor Harbor is surrounded by so many amazing things to see and do including historical infrastructure, incredible eateries and wildlife adventures. With its amazing coastlines and close proximity to Adelaide, you really get the best of both worlds. The marine life in this area is more diverse than that of the Great Barrier Reef.

We love having the privilege of sharing this amazing part of the world with others.

Deani Edwards (from Soma Health and Beauty) I love the fact that we have such a strong community spirit and family vibe down here. We all support each other and shop local to support small businesses. If we can all continue to do this, our beautiful township can continue to grow and thrive on so many levels.

Adam Bowden (from Elders Insurance) My days are spent chatting to farmers, florists, accountants, coffee roasters, young kids buying their first car or older couples that have lived in the same home for sixty years. Victor has such a great mix of people, it’s good fun hearing their stories.

Julie Sexton (from the Joyful Buddhas) There are so many stunning locations to walk and feel recharged, to breathe in the fresh air and the power and beauty of the ocean.

It is God’s Living Room!

Below: Sculpture Encounters ‘Adam and Eve’ by Peter Lundberg (USA) on Granite Island. Photo by Ron Langman.

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VICTOR HARBOR

FLEURIEU PENINSULA

For more information on getting to Victor Harbor and around, things to do, tours and accommodation or to book your holiday today, contact the Victor Harbor Visitor Information Centre on 1800 557 094 or visit

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DISCOVER SOUTH AUSTRALIA’S FAVOURITE COASTAL HOLIDAY DESTINATION!

MARKETS & EVENTS

Spring Diary Dates LOCAL MARKETS: Aldinga, McLaren Vale and Willunga Aldinga Bay Art, Craft and Produce Market Central Way Aldinga Central Shopping Centre Fourth Sunday of every month, 11am – 3pm Arts and crafts from local artisans, as well as fresh local produce.

Willunga Farmers Market Willunga Town Square Every Saturday, 8am – 12.30pm Don’t forget to buy a membership and receive discounts on all the fabulous local food.

Willunga Quarry Market Adjacent to the Willunga Oval Second Saturday of each month, 9am – 1pm Come and browse an eclectic mix of everything, ranging from second hand tools to plants and craft.

There’s always something new to see.

Willunga Artisans Market Willunga Show Hall Second Saturday of each month, 9am – 1pm Local art and craft with a little bit of something for everyone.

A great place to buy a unique handmade gift!

Goolwa, Port Elliot and Victor Harbor Goolwa Wharf Market First and third Sunday of every month, 9am – 3pm With around 80 stalls, there is a myriad of goods on offer. Bric-abrac, collectables, fresh local produce, coffee and food, plants, books both new and old, and hand-crafted goods.

Goolwa Cittaslow Farmers Market Goolwa Wharf Precinct Second and fourth Sunday of each month, 9am – 1pm Artisan food producers and farmers providing a diverse range of in season produce.

Port Elliot Market Lakala Reserve Port Elliot First and third Saturday of each month, 9am – 2pm A typical country market with plenty of fresh local produce on offer, as well as a good mix of other goods, such as plants, bric-a-brac, books, fishing gear – even a $2 stall!

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Victor Harbor Farmers’ Market Grosvenor Gardens, Victor Harbor Every Saturday, 8am – 12.30pm Over 32 stalls, with locally caught seafood, organic vegetables, seasonal fruit, local honey, mushrooms, fresh flowers, Fleurieu regional wines and much more. Well worth the visit.

COUNTRY MARKETS: Kangaroo Island Farmers’ and Community Markets Lloyd Collins Reserve by the beach at Penneshaw First Sunday of the month, 9am – 1pm Kangaroo Island’s top food producers selling a range of fresh local produce in a great village atmosphere. For special SeaLink Ferry fares, visit sealink.com.au Meadows Country Market Meadows Memorial Hall Second Sunday of the month, 9am – 3pm Up to 70 stalls of local produce, crafts, collectibles, plants and brica-brac. A true country market.

Myponga Markets The old Myponga Cheese Factory, next to Smiling Samoyed Brewery Every Saturday, Sunday and public holiday, 9.30am – 4pm Enjoy browsing a variety of stalls including art, books, fine china and glass, toys, local leather work, coins, records and fossils.

Strathalbyn Markets Lions Park, South Terrace, Strathalbyn Third Sunday of the month, 8am – 2pm A quaint, country-style market with bric-a-brac, produce, coffee, pies, apples, plants, soaps, jewellery and much more in wonderfully historic Strathalbyn.

Yankalilla Craft & Produce Market Yankalilla Agricultural Hall, Main South Road Third Saturday of each month, 9am – 1pm Craft and produce market featuring goods from the local area. You’ll be surprised at what you may find!

FESTIVALS AND EVENTS: SEPTEMBER Festival of Nature Yankalilla Wednesday 5 September – Sunday 9 September Celebrate sustainability through a plethora of activities including guided bushwalks, yoga in the park and workshops. The inaugural festival aims to inspire and empower.

Visit www.visitfleurieucoast.com.au/ Sustainable Living Expo Yankalilla Showgrounds Sunday 9 September, 10am – 4pm Whether you want to embrace a low-impact lifestyle, learn new skills, grow your own food, reconnect with nature, quench your curiosity about sustainable living or simply have a fun day out with the family – there’s something for you. Come along for interactive workshops, demonstrations, market-stalls plus food, wine and entertainment.

Rock ’n’ Roll Festival Warland Reserve, Victor Harbor Friday 14 September – Sunday 16 September Organised by the Historic Motor Vehicles Club of Victor Harbor, the Rock ’n’ Roll Festival brings together a range of local bands and a large display of classic cars. Check out the cars, enjoy the good vibes and a dance or two - and feel free to bring the kids!

For classic car enthusiasts, car entry is free and eligible for all rock ‘n’ roll related vehicles.

Free event, for more information visit www.rocknrollfestival.com.au Shimmer Photographic Biennale Friday 14 September – Sunday 14 October A boutique arts festival presented by The City of Onkaparinga celebrating the culture of the camera and all things photographic.

Set across thirteen sensational venues and featuring over thirty five artists, experience an invigorating month of exhibitions, events, workshops and artist talks.

Free entry to all exhibitions, for more information visit www.onkaparingacity.com/shimmer

Open Exposure Photo Forum Arts Centre Port Noarlunga Saturday 15 September, 11.30am – 5.30pm Join a portfolio of photographers featured in the 2018 Shimmer program for an afternoon of stimulating talks and creative discussion. MC’d by Mark Kimber, the Studio Head of Photography at UniSA, this event will give insights into these artists’ practice, purpose and processes.

Free event. www.onkaparingacity.com/shimmer Eat with your Eyes Red Poles, McLaren Vale Saturday 15 September, 7pm onwards Feast on Insta-worthy plates of local produce at the beautiful Red Poles restaurant with photographer Heidi Linehan, while learning low-tech tips to get better food photos without fancy equipment.

A fun evening of Instagram food fabulosity.

Cost: $65, visit www.redpoles.com.au for more information.

Kids Community Market Fleurieu Coast Visitor Centre, Yankalilla Sunday 23 September, 10am Capturing creativity and learning, all stallholders are school-aged children. Come and support the budding entrepreneurs.

For more information contact Melissa Nicholson on 0407 315 030 Port Elliot Garden Walk Sunday 23 September, 10am – 4.30pm Four diverse gardens and a productive communal garden verge, all within walking distance in historic Port Elliot.

Tickets: $15, available at South Seas Books, 53 North Terrace Port Elliot.

Visit www.opengardens.org.au/events for more information.

Yankalilla Show Yankalilla Showgrounds Saturday 29 September, 9am – 4pm Featuring all the fun of the fair, this is a fabulous family day out.

Highlights include show rides and sideshows, market stalls, competitive exhibits, camel and pony rides, a hands-on animal nursery and the art pavilion. There’s also live music, show jumping, art competitions, farm animals and bush dancing with Lasseters’ Gold.

Cost: Adults $20, concession $15, children under 12 free.

For more information visit www.yankshow.com >

Left: Don’t miss the Rock ‘n’ Roll Festival in Victor Harbor on Friday 14th to Sunday 16th September this year!

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MARKETS & EVENTS

FESTIVALS AND EVENTS cont: OCTOBER The Sponge Kids Art Hub Signal Point Gallery, Gawler Wharf precinct Wednesday 10 October – Friday 12 October, 11am, 12.30pm, 1.30pm and 3.30pm.

Hands-on sculpting and an exhibition to enjoy, this is a great activity for the school holidays. Kids can take home their animal sculptures for the mantelpiece.

Free, with no bookings required.

Beeeeeef Party Oliver’s Taranga Vineyards Sunday 21 October and Sunday 2 December, 12 – 4pm Don’t miss the chance to take part in Oliver’s Taranga’s very first beef luncheon. A four-course meal featuring spit-roast beef, accompanied

by Oliver’s Taranga Vineyards’ own premium wines. With other events at the winery already fully-booked, this culinary experience is not to be missed.

Cost: $100 per head, all inclusive. www.oliverstaranga.com/new-beef-party/ Fleurieu Folk Festival Willunga Friday 26 October – Sunday 28 October The Fleurieu Folk Festival in historic Willunga presents a weekend of entertainment, including music concerts and sessions, dance, workshops, bush poets, children’s entertainment and stalls, to name a few. Discover your own talent at one of the many workshops, or just relax and enjoy the various local and interstate performers.

Ticket prices vary, for more information visit www.fleurieufolkfestival.com.au Kenny Blake Festival Strathalbyn Friday 26 October – Sunday 28 October This motorcycling festival celebrates the life and achievements of Kenny Blake, racing’s ‘gentleman racer’. See custom motorcycles, memorabilia and selected new bikes from retailers and exhibitors.

Visit www.kennyblakestrathalbyn.com.au/ for more information.

Aussie Muscle Car Run Yankalilla to Goolwa Saturday 27 October The Aussie Muscle Car Run is the Leukaemia Foundation’s annual leisure car cruise to help raise funds for all Australians living with blood cancers. Sixty muscle cars of the golden Bathurst era will roll into Yankalilla at 10am, before making their way to the Goolwa riverfront for a Show’n’Shine in the afternoon.

For more information on this fantastic cause, visit www.aussiemusclecarrun.com

Field Good Festival Almas Hem, Inman Valley Saturday 27 October – Sunday 28 October Spend the night at the Fleurieu’s very first Field Good Festival; a onenight camping event showcasing a variety of South Australia’s finest arts in collaboration with feel-good music and entertainment. An intimate and fun experience for the all-round coastal-culture lover.

Keep up with the latest updates via www.facebook.com/FieldGoodFest/

NOVEMBER Smoke Off Festival RSL Lawns, Goolwa Sunday 4 November The festival brings together Goolwa’s traditional Smoke Off – this involves teams of local people who, using BBQs or other devices, smoke hams or other foods in a competition that is judged by local personalities. With some of the best local wines, food producers and music. It’s part of an ongoing series of events in the Goolwa Wharf precinct presented by Cittaslow Goolwa.

Handpicked Festival Lake Breeze Wines, Langhorne Creek Saturday 10 November Great music combined with some of South Australia’s best food and wine will be on offer at the Handpicked Festival. Shop, drink, taste and dance to the hum of world class music acts for a glorious laidback afternoon among the vines.

Visit www.handpickedfestival.com for more information.

Wirrina Bluegrass & Acoustic Roots Festival Wirrina Cove Holiday Park Friday 16 November – Sunday 18 November Head to Wirrina Cove to hear, play and share acoustic music from the Bluegrass, Old Timey and other related traditions. The annual festival features world class musicians, many of whom come back each year to perform, run workshops, and join in on the fun and inspiration.

Visit www.wirrinabluegrass.com for tickets and information, or phone 0428 263 795.

Langhorne Creek Vignerons’ Race Day Strathalbyn Racecourse Sunday 18 November, 10.30am – 5pm One of the most popular Sunday race days on the South Australian calendar, the Langhorne Creek Vignerons’ Day is more than just a horse race. Celebrating the best the region has to offer in food and wine, the day is one for all the family to enjoy in the grounds of the picturesque Strathalbyn Racecourse.

Cost: $15 – $20, children under 15 free.

Kangaroo Island Sufferfest Triathlon Various locations across the Island.

Friday 23 November – Sunday 25 November One of the fastest and most scenic races in the world, Australia’s newest Iron Distance race is returning to Kangaroo Island. There will be a range of races including swimming, sprinting, duathlons, triathlons, aqua-biking, and even a kids race. An outdoor cinema, live music, and a street party make this event the perfect combination of thrills and fun for all ages.

Cost: Varies, visit www.sufferfesttri.com/event-information-ki.html for more information and to register.

Left: Motorcycle race fans should not miiss the Kenny Blake Festival in Strathalbyn from Friday to Sunday 26 – 28 October.

Victor Central... a feast for the senses Located in the heart of Victor Harbor, Victor Central is home to over 40 retailers and services.

Ranging from amazing fresh food, gifts, entertainment and homewares to sporting goods and fashion.

Whilst you are shopping you will be able to enjoy a coffee or a bite to eat at one of the cafĂŠs located throughout the mall.

Shopping at Victor Central is made even easier with plenty of free car parking.

21 - 37 Torrens St, Victor Harbor Visit www.victorcentral.com.au and register to receive offers, updates and special offers Follow us victorcentralshop and victorcentralshop

A labour of love

Story by Kate Le Gallez. Photography by Robert Geh. Styling by Bernadette Kelly.

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Previous page: The red and white French linen grain sack has been repurposed as a cushion cover. Other vintage finds are paired with Enoki’s Cumulus lights floating on either side of the master bed. This page: The south-side of the house opens up into a welcoming kitchen, living and dining space.

Not many people would take on a complete house renovation while pregnant. But when Bernadette Kelly and Billy Dohnt found out they were expecting their first child, that’s exactly what they did.

Billy, a chef, had bought the four-bedroom, 1950s-era Hayborough house in 2008, but had been renting it out while the couple lived in Adelaide. The pregnancy changed everything. ‘We were looking for more of a base as a family,’ says artist and hairdresser Bernadette on the decision to renovate the house. ‘When I found out I was pregnant, it was game-on from then onwards,’ Bernadette tells me. ‘Billy assured me we would be in for Christmas – we were still painting – but he kept his promise.’

Built from Mount Gambier limestone on a quarter-acre block with snippets of a sea view, Billy and Bernadette could see that the house had the makings of a place they would happily bring their son home to. But first, the mid-century floor plan needed to be opened up and finessed for twenty-first century living.

Today, visitors are greeted by a sunshine-yellow front door. I’m soon to learn this is one of only a few vibrant pops of colour to be found

in the house, but it offers an inkling as to the energy and creativity that has shaped the old house into a modern family home. ‘Originally, there were a lot of pokey rooms and everything was segregated by walls,’ explains Bernadette. The couple engaged designer, Scott Cooper, briefing him to create a communal space, introduce more natural light and create flow between the inside and out. ‘Scott really was able to provide a different perspective on many areas of the house, which I just would never have been able to come up with myself,’ says Bernadette. His design retained the original placement of the master bedroom and a smaller bedroom (which is now son Louis’ bedroom) at either side of the entrance hall.

From there, the south-side of the house opens up into a welcoming kitchen, living and dining space. Custom-made bifold doors at either end of the room effectively double the size of the living area, >

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Top left: Visitors are greeted by a sunshine-yellow front door. Top right and bottom: The show-stopping main bathroom has a striking set of antlers above a luxurious freestanding bath.This is complemented by pared down cabinetry, lighting and accessories. Next page: Bernadette Kelly, the creative force behind this impressive home, ponders her next bold move.

marrying the inside space to a generous south-facing deck. Together with a large central window, they also invite in vast quantities of natural light. Light was a high priority during the renovation, with Bernadette crinkling her nose as she recalls the ‘tiny’ original windows. Post-reno, the airy room is the perfect habitat for an astoundingly large fiddle leaf fig, its branches reaching out towards either end of the space, their onward journey now supported by hooks plugged into the ceiling.

At one end, the kitchen strikes a moody note with bespoke cabinetry in deep grey and concrete benchtops. The orientation of the kitchen was an important design feature, as life with a chef means it’s a constant hub of activity. ‘We wanted to be able to cook but still be 18

able to have a view to both the inside and outside entertaining areas,’ explains Bernadette. That view takes in a clean space with a modern feel, overlayed with distinct textural elements that bring warmth and personality. One piece in particular sums up the aesthetic. It’s a wooden side table originally from Indonesia, the top is deeply creviced, while re-purposed Indonesian doors stand in place of legs.

‘That was the very first piece we bought when we knew we were going to renovate,’ says Bernadette. ‘And I guess in a way it’s been the theme. It’s got the texture, it’s got the wood and it just all flowed from there.’ >

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Above: Louis’ bedroom is pared down, but playful. Next page top left and right: An old cart, a Gumtree find, has become the coffee table flanked by some retro leather and wood side chairs. Bottom: The outdoor area is a relaxing space to entertain.

Vintage and antique wood elements feature throughout the house. The generous dining table is Billy’s – something he’s had for a long time – while an old cart, a Gumtree find, has become the coffee table.

Vintage and antique wood elements feature throughout the house.

The generous dining table is Billy’s – something he’s had for a long time – while an old cart, a Gumtree find, has become the coffee table. In one of two guest bedrooms an eighteenth century French dough bin, which originally belonged to Bernadette’s brother, houses a curated collection of cookbooks. While certainly reflective of Bernadette’s own artistic style, these and other carefully chosen vintage pieces in the house also speak to the couple’s shared preference for things that come with a memory or reminder of a person, place or experience.

The old sits harmoniously alongside the new, with more modern acquisitions including a painting by Indigenous artist Vincent Namatjira and small study by Victorian painter Debbie Mackenzie. Accent lighting continues the textural play with Enoki’s Cumulus lights floating either side of the master bed and delicately crafted pendants hovering above the dining table, the latter imported from Spain.

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Few details of the original interior remain, but those that do only enhance the liveable aesthetic. The original floorboards have been whitewashed, while a sweet leadlight triptych lives on in the ensuite.

An intriguing twin-set of bells found above the door now sit on the floating shelves in the living area.

The mix is eclectic, but the character of these pieces is unified by the otherwise neutral canvas provided by the renovation. Elements of symmetry, repeated stripes and graphic motifs on textiles (including French linen grain sacks repurposed as cushion covers) maintain a clean and cohesive backdrop.

Leaving the main living and sleeping spaces behind, Bernadette leads me to the western side of the house which accommodates the two guest bedrooms, the laundry and show-stopping main bathroom.

Entering the bathroom, a striking set of antlers above a luxurious freestanding bath grabs my attention. ‘I couldn’t find any fabulous towel rails,’ says Bernadette by way of explanation. ‘So I thought, let’s get a bit creative.’ >

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Top: The dining table and benches were custom-made in Perth by Westoz Engineering. Bottom: The old sits harmoniously alongside the new, with more modern acquisitions including a painting by Indigenous artist Vincent Namatjira.

Few details of the original interior remain, but those that do only enhance the liveable aesthetic.

That all this was achieved in the space of a pregnancy is a great credit to Billy and Bernadette’s drive and the people they worked with, including builder Luke Evers from the nearby Adelaide Hills. ‘Luke was an absolute perfectionist and without his knowledge and varied and broad skills we never would have been able to complete the build in time for Louis’ birth,’ says Bernadette. But more than that, the couple felt they had a shared understanding with Luke, who they now call a friend, about their vision for the house and their future life there.

That future is now well and truly here in the form of the two-and-half year-old boy who arrived only a matter of weeks after they moved in.

But already the creative force that dreamed up this house is restless behind that yellow door. ‘The only way is up,’ says Bernadette. Or perhaps a new build is on the cards. Who knows what they could create in another nine months.

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Don Oliver | Viticulturist

STARTED BY OUR

246 SEAVIEW RD

GREAT GREAT GREAT

McLAREN VALE

GREAT GRANDFATHER

OLIVERSTARANGA.COM

The China files Story by Corrina Wright.

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Previous page top: McLaren Vale Producers loving Grenache. Bottom left: Duncan and Peter Lloyd of Coriole Vineyards. Bottom right: Sam Martin of Bremerton Wines.

Above: Chester Osborn of d’Arenberg Wines.

Australian wine exports are on fire at the moment, mostly driven by a fifty-one per cent year-on-year growth into China.

Recently, I heard a statistic that blew my mind and put this into perspective: Australia now exports to China in one day the same amount of wine that was exported across a whole year in 2008.

So, what does this mean for our Fleurieu wine producers? How does this change the industry and our region? I was lucky enough to attend the recent Vinexpo Hong Kong, one of the biggest wine trade shows on the planet. This year, Australia was recognised as the country of honour; twenty-one wine brands of all sizes from the Fleurieu were represented, with many familiar faces behind stalls.

Ministry of Clouds owners, Julian Forwood and Bernice Ong, told me it was their first international trade show since launching the business in 2013. As a small premium brand, high quality export markets had always been on their horizon, but they had initially

decided to concentrate their energies domestically to help consolidate a strong base before expanding into Asia. Despite the growing demand, Bernice says they are yet to jump on the China train. ‘We haven’t as yet!’ she explains. ‘We have consciously taken a step back to watch how others are doing it, especially with the exploding volume of exports to China – we have chosen to tread slowly.’

With the Fleurieu offering both high quality and value, Bernice sees the appeal from overseas and is keeping a close eye on what comes next. On the other end of the spectrum, however, is Chester Osborn of d’Arenberg Wines. Chester has long seen the potential in overseas markets, and has created markets for his product in China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Korea, Japan, Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia, Vietnam and India. Dressed in his trademark colourful clothing – and with a suitcase filled with props representing his myriad of red-striped wine labels – he and his brand are always memorable wherever they go. And it’s paid off. His sales in China have grown by 300 per cent in the last 12 months. ‘We are very committed to investing in China and growing with our strong partners,’ he says. Not only is the Chinese market buying Fleurieu wine, it is also visiting the region.

‘The d’Arenberg Cube is becoming a must-see landmark for Chinese visitors,’ Chester tells me. ‘We have invested in increasing our >

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Top: Ministry of Clouds owners, Julian Forwood and Bernice Ong. Bottom left: Representing McLaren Vale Grenache in style. Bottom right: Liz and Guy Adams of Brothers in Arms.

number of Mandarin-speaking staff to welcome Chinese visitors, and see this growth continuing. There are a number of local wineries with Chinese cellar door staff now, which shows that Chinese tourism is definitely on the increase.’

opening up the conversation and seeing what the potential was. ‘We were also interested in meeting our existing importers in Asia and meeting potential new importers,’ he says. ‘The fact that Australia was the focus country this year made it all the more appealing.’

Husband and wife team Liz and Guy Adams, from Brothers in Arms in Langhorne Creek, were another set of familiar faces in the crowd.

They have been established in the China market since 2006. An estate-grown brand of around 90,000 cases, they already have a Chinese Sales and Marketing Manager on their team. For them, though, there is always room for growth. ‘We are particularly looking to target some new Asian markets in Taiwan, Vietnam and Japan as well as repositioning ourselves in Hong Kong,’ Liz says.

‘Of course new leads in China are always welcome too!’ Not all South Australians were driven to attend the expo to find new leads.

For third generation brothers Duncan and Peter Lloyd of Coriole, their motivation was propelled primarily by one thing: dumplings.

And I have to say, I am in complete agreement on that front ... mmm ... dumplings.

Tiny McLaren Vale artisan producer Wes Pearson of Dodgy Brothers came to the expo donning two hats. A senior scientist with the Australian Wine Research Institute, he was asked to host some masterclasses for Wine Australia, but also had his wine displayed on the McLaren Vale regional stand. I asked him whether this extraordinary growth in China had potential for small producers too.

‘We’re definitely exploring our opportunities in China,’ he says. ‘Our production is small, but the opportunities for growth in China are too good to pass up. By having our wines at Vinexpo, we can stick our toes in the water, gauge interest, make contacts and establish relationships, and hopefully begin to get some wine into that market one day in the future.’

Coriole, while being an established brand in our region, has never had a big export footprint, with less than fifteen per cent of production leaving our shores. Duncan says the visit was about 26

As I left Wes at his masterclass, I then bumped into Sam Martin, the sales manager for Langhorne Creek’s Bremerton Wines. He was taking the opportunity to highlight and taste Bremerton’s portfolio with current distribution partners, as well as other interested distributors and importers, not only in China but countries such

Above left: Winemaker Paul Smith of Wirra Wirra. Above right: Corrina Wright of Oliver’s Taranga contemplating dumplings.

as Vietnam, Malaysia, the Philippines, Taiwan and many others.

Bremerton has been exporting to China for the past decade, but in relatively small quantities. ‘That said,’ Sam continues, ‘it is a top priority for us and we are planning more regular visits to the region each year. I’m also using WeChat a lot at the moment to communicate. I had our QR code printed up and laminated for Vinexpo, which worked very well to make connections and immediately communicate using the translation options.’

Sam tells me that the dominant sales in China come from Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. ‘In more recent years we have also seen growth domestically of alternate varieties, but I don’t think the average Chinese distributor is ready for this just yet,’ he says. ‘I’m sure it won’t be long though, as the wine scene is rapidly changing.’

Victoria Angove was also on the ground representing Angove Family Winemakers. After many years exhibiting at the expo in both Bordeaux and Hong Kong – and having exported wines to China for more than twenty years – there was no option not to attend. Victoria tells me she learns more each year. ‘China is such an amazing country – the more I know about the country and the market, the more that I know that I don’t know! There are thirty-four provinces, each with their own nuances of culture, food, dining and beliefs …

and then subcultures further beneath, and beneath that again.’

Victoria tells me that views China as a wealth of opportunity, but she does say that any opportunity should also come with due diligence of the market.

Next along the line was Wirra Wirra winemaker, Paul Smith, who was at the expo with their sales manager, Sam Temme. The winery has also seen substantial increases in Chinese visitors and recently recruited new Mandarin-speaking staff to cater for the additional demand in cellar door tasting and tours. Paul and I spoke about what attracted Chinese buyers to the South Australian market.

‘Chinese visitors to the Fleurieu are attracted by a great range of cellar doors, spectacular coast and bountiful nature, all on the doorstep of Adelaide and very accessible,’ he explains. ‘With more businesses getting China ready, the region is well poised to capitalise on the growth of Chinese visitors and the expenditure which comes with it, which last year grew in South Australia by 55 per cent to $389 million. This makes the Chinese visitor spend five times as big as the next highest international market visiting South Australia.’

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The return of Handpicked There is an abundance of festivals on the Fleurieu Peninsula during the warmer months, but there’s only one that can boast being more of an adventure than a festival. Handpicked Festival takes place in the magical setting of ancient gum trees and sprawling vines, in the ‘backyard’ of Lake Breeze Wines at Langhorne Creek in November.

Organisers carefully curate a lineup of world-class musicians, alongside smaller outfits and purveyors. Last year’s acts included some of Australia’s best artists, including Matt Corby, Jet, San Cisco and Dean Lewis, as well as local bands including The Winter Gypsy and Alana Jagt. The impressive line-up drew a crowd of more than four-and-a-half thousand people … and organisers say there’s room to grow.

Celebrating its fifth year, the festival has secured its place as one of the region’s most acclaimed events. And this year certainly won’t disappoint. The combination of live music, a creators’ market, camping in bell tents, gourmet food stalls and craft brews, an awe-inspiring landscape and fine wines make it an event not to be missed.

Although this year’s lineup is still under wraps, the word is it will knock your socks off. Handpicked Festival is guaranteed to get everyone, from the young to the young-at-heart, to unplug and reconnect in a majestic, rural landscape. And when the sun goes down the festival really warms up under a blanket of stars, creating an ambience that is nothing short of amazing.

Lake Breeze Wines is the ideal venue, with plenty of room to dance barefoot or to find a spot to settle down on a picnic rug with a glass of wine and take it all in.

For announcements of this year’s acts, sign up to the festival’s mailing list at: handpickedfestival.com

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Handpicked’s twinkling market lane, filled with the region’s best arts and craft, is also set to return. Among the plethora of stalls will be flower crowns, henna tattoos and vintage threads aplenty, creating a beautiful harmonious vibe.

Visit Historic

OXENBERRY FARM - Est. 1840

• Cellar door boutique regional wine production • Unique Grapple Ciders • Daily Café

• Barista coffee • Event facilities • On farm accommodation

26-28 Kangarilla Rd McLaren Vale, www.oxenberry.com Ph: 08 8323 0188

SCARPANTONI Estate Grown - Family Made Est. 1979

Scarpantoni Estate wines are classically ‘McLaren Vale’ in style, particularly the reds - being generous, mouth-filling, full of ripe fruit flavours and regional characteristics. Our range of wines covers a wide spectrum, from crisp, dry sauvignon blancs, chardonnay and rosé, to full bodied shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and fortified wines. Over the past five decades the wines have amassed an enviable collection of hundreds of wine show awards, including ‘The Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy’. The Great Australian Shiraz Challenge, Winestate Shiraz of the year award and The Great Australian Red award.

Visit our cellar door and winery, experience the fascinating range of varietals and wine styles that we produce exclusively on site.

Tel:(08) 8383 0186, Scarpantoni Dr, McLaren Flat SA 5171, www.scarpantoniwines.com

Woven Acts and Spoken Maps Story by Fulvia Mantelli. Artwork by Laura Wills.

Above: Catching the Landscape.

It began with a mesmerising and melancholic song. Laura Wills played alongside singer-songwriter Naomi Keyte, as she launched her exhibition at Sauerbier House, with the audience also participating. Singing collectively, like this moment in the exhibition, plays a significant role in Laura’s expanded practice – much of her work is based on listening to her surrounds, both beneath and above the white noise of progress.

Laura is an Adelaide-based artist who explores the social contexts of environmental concerns and ideas. Her multifarious practice continues to defy being pigeon-holed into a definitive description.

Instead, she takes a cross-disciplinary and multimedia approach, unpacking and offering enduring ideas, actions and impact.

Laura is best known for her hybrid paintings and works on paper, particularly her use of maps. Her site-specific installations and public art projects – which often involve collective actions – also focus on process and experimentation, expanding the current perceived boundaries of drawing.

Having spent a great deal of her life travelling, Laura continues to honour and absorb diverse cultures and unique environments from far and wide. The impetus is to search – for self and others, for kin and belonging. As a concept that many artists explore, ‘belonging’ and how we are defined by a place are as much about what we can contribute to it, as it is about what it has to offer us. Art residencies 30

are the hotbed for such investigations and Laura has undertaken several in Australia and overseas.

Residencies offer artists a concentrated period of enquiry, thinking time and experimentation. They also create the opportunity to intensely experience place-specific changes in pace, and a break in the linear rote that we all too easily find ourselves caught in. Likewise, Sauerbier House provides a platform for cultural exchange and site-responsive research. Perched on the bank of the Ngangkiparri (Kaurna Women’s River or Onkaparinga River) and hosted within a colonial villa, this particular residency is positioned in a culturally important and complex location.

Laura recognises the special energy at the intersection of Ngangkiparri and the sea, and has long been drawn to the place with a particular feeling of connection. By immersing herself here for three months, she continued her exploration into the idiosyncrasies of natural bodies of water: their movement and what it brings with it;

Top left: Feeling. Top right: Relationship. Bottom left: Held maybe. Bottom right: Innermost. All drawings are pastel on paper.

the ways in which they speak (e.g. heralding weather patterns); the importance of biodiversity; and how a healthy river system ensures a healthy community. Comprised of new drawings, an ephemeral public art installation and song, Woven Acts and Spoken Maps explores the ecosystem of the Ngangkiparri, and the complexities and potential of our relationship with it.

Laura is the inaugural Sauerbier House Culture Exchange Climate is Change artist in residence, a unique program that facilitates opportunities to collaborate with City of Onkaparinga staff and gain access to climate data and research. Laura discovered the extent to which climate change is integrated across the council, working with strategic planners, conservation and biodiversity experts, social planners and local historians. Her practice often involves working with scientists, ethicists, gardeners and educators, and this access to council staff deepened and enriched her two concurrent and connected projects in this region – both investigating concepts relating to ritual, travel, transience and mapping.

In this series of works on paper, people and landscape embrace, melding into one another. It’s a reminder of the importance of twoway respect and nurturing, and the vital need to understand that we are merely a part of this ecology – not its authority. Conversely, some works articulate the post-colonial insistence to manipulate the environment to our supposed advantage – a concept that is essentially an oxymoron in terms of sustainability.

Laura’s work often encompassed community engagement, exploring the capacity and function of participation and collaboration. Such reciprocal processes enrich dialogue, meaning and context for both the maker and his or her participants. Evolving through a series of workshops with the local community and made with her collaborator Will Cheeseman, the ephemeral Watercourse installation responds to the significance, power and purpose of Ngangkiparri. Laura has mapped its winding path from Port Noarlunga to Old Noarlunga – which sits surrounded by the river – using materials found on site. >

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Above: Folding course. Pastel on paper. Below: Laura Wills at Sauerbier House.

As this living installation creeps through the property’s Victorian garden and curls around to surround Sauerbier House, we are invited to remove a weed from the site and add it to the watercourse. The council has stopped spraying weeds for the duration of this exhibition, so it will be interesting to see what and where they grow. Laura has always been attracted to the ‘arc’ shape and is perpetually fascinated by river bends. She sees them as spaces of water flow changes, transformation, filtering, and wind breaks; a place where rivers embrace the land with meandering riparian zones.

Watercourse speaks to the area’s saltwater and freshwater ecologies, and the natural environment’s enduring right to exist (preserved) within the conundrum of moving between public and private land. In time it will leave a trace installation that will carry its narrative’s momentum until it disappears – a sobering thought.

Contextualised within an environment that – as is the predicament of most regional centres – is surrounded by growing urban development, Woven Acts and Spoken Maps embodies the importance of tuning into the experiences, stories and histories lived by the land’s bio-network, and to take responsibility for its future.

Contemplating the ecosystem, from trees and rocks to riverbed, Laura asks us: ‘what have they witnessed?’ In posing questions about what might be in store, her works encourage us to listen, to feel, and to refocus the way we see, experience, and treat our own natural environments.

Fulvia Mantelli is a Curator & Project Manager and currently Associate Curator, Samstag Museum of Art, University of South Australia.

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NEED A LOCAL BUILDER YOU CAN TRUST? Welcome to Catalyst Homes

Call 0448 033 709 or email info@catalysthomes.com.au www.catalysthomes.com.au buildwithcatalysthomes

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BOOKS & WORDS

Spring Book Reviews

by Mark Laurie of South Seas Books, Port Elliot these are the true stories of tragedy and terror which underpin so much of our memorable fiction. From Patrick White’s Voss or Tree of Man and Randolph Stow’s Tourmaline, to Kenneth Cook’s Wake in Fright and, most recently, The Shepherd’s Hut by Tim Winton, we are fascinated by stories of faith, folly and fury in a setting few of us inhabit and fewer still try to understand.

In this short, compelling book, the author presents us with stories we may have largely forgotten or may never have known, but which have nevertheless both informed and mirrored how we view our country and ourselves. The ferocity he describes, emanating from a dead heart, continues to command our attention, to draw us even as it repels. If the heart is dead at its centre, perhaps we should look to our own as much as to our country’s.

The Fierce Country: True Stories from Australia’s Unsettled Heart, 1830 to today

by Stephen Orr

Published by Wakefield Press ISBN 9781743055748 $27.95 Stephen Orr has compiled a series of short, true stories of our confrontation with the country’s arid centre and the conflicts between us it has borne witness to. Channelling the antipathy and fear which dominated the European settler reaction to Australia’s hostile geography from the beginning, he presents us with a harsh landscape beyond the edge of ready habitation and the characters who cross over into it. The stories he tells are of people both fleeing and pursuing, driven by need, wanderlust, or the demons within them far from the comforts of temperate coastal settlement. Spanning almost two centuries,

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The Bookshop of the Broken Hearted

by Robert Hillman Published by Text Publishing ISBN 9781925603439 $29.99 In the late 1960s, on the farm he has inherited from his uncle in Victoria’s north, Tom Hope endeavours to live a tranquil life.

The type of person who allocates scarce time to running over acorns with a tractor to enable them to be eaten by visiting wild ducks, he seems unlikely to prosper in agriculture. An unsuccessful marriage to flighty Trudy increases his humility before a largely empathetic rural community and places Trudy’s infant son in his care for a time. Tom discovers a talent for fatherhood in the short period before the child is taken to live with his mother in a faith community, far away to the south.

Hannah Babel, an Hungarian Jew, has endured the horrors of Auschwitz where she lost her husband and son, and lived through the Russian occupation and nihilism that characterised the aftermath of the war in Budapest. She has battled her way to Australia with wit, beauty and reserves of strength, and after some time spent teaching in a series of rural towns, opens a bookshop. The bookshop, symbol of folly and opportunity, a magnetic meeting place for those sensitive to the past and all the potential of the future, is a natural fulcrum for this book.

Told in the matter-of-fact, laconic tone which often characterises the dialect of much of rural Australia, where wry humour and understatement shroud reservoirs of emotional depth, this story visits various forms of extremism upon big-hearted people and explores the impacts on them.

Robert Hillman brings to us the quiet joy we all experience when two likeable people find one another amongst all the chaos of the world.

geographic terrain. Pearl, an Australian journalist relegated to the women’s pages after having been seen participating in an anti-war march, struggles to reunify the family she has failed to hold together.

Axel, a Swedish glass maker, strives to create art which will be worthy of Jørn Utzon’s vision and signal to the sadness in his own and his country’s past. A third main character is of course the Opera House which is both defined and damned by its aspiration, its symbolism, its artistry and the high craft of its construction.

In this highly evolved literary work, Olsson employs beautiful language and a contemplative tone, evoking our universal humanity even as she speaks to national identity. She measures the distance which exists between who we are and who we might be, whether derived from family, country, or from the vagaries of chance or choice.

Shell

by Kristina Olsson Published by Scribner Australia ISBN 9781925685329 $35.00 The turbulent 1960s: a time when Australians were wrestling with dramatic social change, participation in the Vietnam war and a new form of symbolism embodied in the design of Sydney’s Opera House. In this fertile setting, multi-awardwinning author, Kristina Ollson explores our national identity through the dual lens of conscription and construction, of low politics and high art. An adolescent country is revealed, assaulting difference and shunning grandeur, struggling to compose a meaningful narrative of itself.

Drawing from her own origins and from considerable research, the author has created two central characters: an Australian insider and Swedish outsider, whose histories, actions and thoughts illuminate readily recognisable social and

Wild Sea: A History of the Southern Ocean

by Joy McCann Published by NewSouth Books ISBN 9781742235738 $32.99 The Southern Ocean has long been shaded by its Pacific, Atlantic and Indian counterparts in human consciousness, even here in southern Australia where its moods and features form part of our every day. Our northern histories, an inhospitable climate, blurred geographic definition and sparse human habitation have combined to marginalise the Southern Ocean in our thoughts and in how we view ourselves.

With this fascinating and erudite book, historian Joy McCann seeks to redirect our gaze, rendering this sweeping space with a fine brush, taking in its natural wonders and often-forgotten stories of its cultural history. Portraits of whales of all kinds, of the majestic wandering albatross and guileless

emperor penguin are blended effortlessly with Indigenous folklore, Coleridge’s ancient mariner, legendary sea monsters and the spirit of the Flying Dutchman. Less poetic is the confrontation with ravening colonial predation on the natural world, an early testament to insensate man and the effects of ungoverned economic activity.

Following in the footsteps of Rachel Carson, whose environmental works in the 1950s awoke a generation to the joys of and perils faced by the natural world, the author seeks to engage a wide audience. Employing a flowing, lyrical style interweaving history, science and storytelling, she succeeds handsomely, demonstrating that far from being a wild sea at the uttermost end of earth, the Southern Ocean is deeply entangled with humanity’s past and the world’s future.

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FOOD & WINE

Uncorked Wine reviews by Gill Gordon-Smith CSW FWS

One of the most exciting things about the Fleurieu as a wine region is its ability to produce such a diverse range of grapes, wines and styles. Blessed with so many different microclimates, talented producers and wineries, there is something for everyone’s taste. In this edition, we showcase some ‘new school’ Mediterranean beauties from long-time local growers.

Wirra Wirra 2018 Mrs Wigley Grenache Rosé Grenache has long been used in red and rosé wines in Spain and southern France. Here in Australia, rosé is becoming more popular as a style, rather than an afterthought. This purpose-made pink is one hundred per cent glorious grenache and a heady nose full of lifted ripe strawberry, rose hips, fresh cut red apple and a touch of spice. In the mouth, those red fruits are followed by a wave of Campari, blood orange and spice, with a long, long finish. This is a beautifully balanced Rosé with just a hint of sweetness that is crying out for lazy days, cheese platters, smoked salmon and terrines. *Grenache noir is known as Garnacha tinta in Spain. Evidence suggests it is indeed a Spanish grape that jumped the border into France and grows exceptionally well in South Australia. We have some of the oldest vines in the world here in SA. Kay Brothers 2017 Nero d’Avola In Italy, the widely planted Sicilian grape Nero d’Avola is also known as Calabrese. This is a delicious wine with bright and intense colour, lifted black cherry, florals, blackberry and a whiff of dried herbs. In the mouth it is a medium-bodied mouthful of juicy cherry, pomegranate and plums, with a lovely line of fresh acidity. An extremely drinkable wine that will disappear at an alarming rate from your glass. Match this with grilled meats, herbed sausages, beetroot, smoked red capsicum and eggplant dishes. *With a great capacity to tolerate heat along with drought resistance, Nero has lovely flavour ripeness at lower sugar levels and is becoming popular with producers and growers.

Ivybrook Farm McLaren Vale Tempranillo 2017 The ocean side of South Road is becoming home to more cellar doors. Long-time farmers and grape growers, the Hunt family, have 36

taken ten years to renovate the stunning 1898 Ivybrook Farm, which includes a cellar door and venue space. Here, winemaker Nick Hunt crafts small-batch wines with provenance on a working farm. The Tempranillo for this wine is grown using biodynamic principles and made with minimal intervention … just the way I like it! Ruby-red in colour with cherry cola, anise, black fruits and savoury dried herb notes. Honest flavours of plum skin, black cherry, licorice and dried herbs are balanced by soft, chalky tannins. A lovely, softly-fruity, textural wine, that would be fabulous with lamb curry with raisins. *Tempranillo is another Spanish variety that has quite a few different names, from Aragonez to Tinta Roriz, depending on where it is grown on the Iberian Peninsula. If you have seen the name Rioja on bottles and wine lists then you are drinking Tempranillo from the Rioja region of Spain.

Scarpantoni 2013 Barbera On my last trip to north-west Italy, I was lucky enough to taste through most of the region’s wines and I fell in love all over again with Barbera. With high natural acidity, it seems to handle the heat well and produces delicious wines with great drinkability.

This deep ruby version from the Scarpantoni family hardly shows its age and is perfect drinking right now, with notes of black cherry, plum and ripe red fruits, overlaid with savoury spice. Rich but juicy fruits splashed with ripe oranges and dark chocolate flavours, balanced with bright acidity, make this delicious drinking and the perfect partner for bolognese and mushroom-based dishes. *Barbera is usually known as the second-best red grape and the poor cousin to Piedmont Nebbiolo, but is one of the five most widely planted red grapes in Italy.

Seek your fresh horizon in 2019 Enrolment vacancies are now available for your child in Reception, Year 1 and Years 7-12 in 2019.

To join us for our next tour on Friday 21 September at 9.30am, register online. A fresh horizon awaits. | tatachilla.sa.edu.au

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The house of imagination Story by Kate Le Gallez. Photography by Heidi Lewis.

Previous page: The ambling garden path leads past the studio to the charming home of Jo Eastaff. Above: Jo spends hours in her studio: drawing, painting, making jewelry or holding informal classes with friends.

It doesn’t take long to realise that Jo Eastaff delights in finding beauty and utility in the old and the discarded. As an artist, school teacher and curio-collector, her particular brand of optimism infuses all aspects of her life. And nowhere is this more abundantly apparent than in her Middleton home.

Originally bought as a weekender in 1997, the house was then just a tiny pink-asbestos shack, half-clad in timber. Tucked away in the older part of Middleton just west of the Point, it was exactly what Jo was looking for: full of character but ripe for extension. In the years since, Jo has slowly made good on her vision and the shack has gently grown, and at the same time transformed from a weekender to a permanent home. The little shack is no longer recognisable but you can sense its character has evolved rather than been extinguished.

I visit Jo a couple of days before she leaves for a two-week holiday in Fiji. She’s just finished another term teaching art at Encounter Lutheran College and is in mid-preparation for an exhibition of her prints, paintings, drawings and jewellery, which will see her home morph into a gallery for the duration of the South Australian Living Artists Festival shortly after her return. The exhibition, titled Flotsam and Jetsam, is inspired by Jo’s coastal life and affinity for the ocean.

It’s fitting then, that her works are displayed in her living room, which

itself showcases exquisite sea views via large windows that draw the eye up and out towards the horizon. The living room was an early addition to the original structure, followed by a lighter, brighter bedroom, workroom and expanded bathroom.

But first came the pantry. Usually the most utilitarian of rooms, pantries are hardly the stuff of lifestyle magazines. But this pantry – and particularly the floor mosaic of repurposed parquetry, leftover tiles and stones collected from the beach – is emblematic of Jo’s approach to renovation, in which found and rescued materials far outnumber the new. ‘These things seem to have a character of their own because they’ve had a life with other people,’ Jo tells me. She points to a white cupboard in the living area, ‘I taught at St Peter’s Girls’ for 18 years – that was the old science cupboard.’ On one of the shelves, a faded label still reads ‘magnesium’. ‘That’s just so precious,’ she says. >

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Previous page top left and right: The home and studio are full of collections, curios and supplies all there ready to inspire the prolific Jo. This page top left and right: Jo’s deck becomes an extension of her living room in the summer. With glorious views of Middleton Beach – it is a gorgeous spot to while away a morning, afternoon or evening.

The cupboard itself houses one of Jo’s many collections of shells, crockery and all manner of other trinkets she has amassed during her travels abroad – and to the local op-shop. On another wall there’s a display of paintings of the local area while an old pair of wooden oars rescued from hard rubbish hang nearby. The mix is incredibly eclectic, which is just the way Jo likes it. She finds joy in coming across things that make her heart sing and gathering them around her. ‘And as you can see,’ she laughs, ‘a lot makes my heart sing!’

‘I feel I’m a better person for having met all these extraordinary people,’ she says. ‘You tend to be increasingly less insular and realise what’s actually going on in the world.’ This desire for ongoing connection with the outside world is evident in the thoughtful renovations that have slowly transformed the shack into a truly bespoke indoor-outdoor home; the windows in the living area don’t simply frame the view but invite the outside in (‘you never get cabin fever in there, never’) and the adjacent wall opens up onto a sheltered deck (‘I live out there in summer’.)

For Jo, these collections aren’t merely decorative, they’re inspiring; they represent connection to the wider world, not just because they might come from one of her repeat trips to Sri Lanka or Fiji, but because they’re reminders of the people Jo’s met along the way.

Same goes for the bathroom, where bi-fold doors open to reveal an outdoor shower. ‘I shower out there every morning, rain, hail or shine,’ Jo tells me. ‘There’s something about standing out in the cold air under hot water. It’s just fabulous.’ In contrast to the busy > 41

Top left: The daybed was made by Jo from repurposed timber. Styled by Little Road Home. Top right: The cat, Trevor, sees us off. Bottom left and right: Jo’s studio is full of colourful supplies.

interior, the exterior of the home is quiet and unassuming but it too has a story. Jo continued the original timber cladding, managing to get her hands on cypress boards milled from local trees. The living room extension is clad in cypress from trees felled in Victor Harbor, while the timber for the detached art studio (added in 2011) came from a tree that once towered over Strangways Terrace in Port Elliot.

Moving through the studio, I feel a little like I’m stepping directly into Jo’s artistic imagination. There are shelves stacked with every colour and shape of bead for jewellery making, spools of thread in every colour of the rainbow, small palettes of water colour paints next to a stack of prints she intends to turn into greeting cards and perhaps most bewilderingly, a bird’s wing hanging from the ceiling – turns out it used to belong to a young albatross Jo found washed up on Bashams Beach after a storm. ‘I thought it would come in handy as I was drawing birds at the time,’ she explains. ‘Photographs don’t really show the details of a wing, so having the opportunity to have the real deal for reference was too good to pass up.’

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While idiosyncratically Jo’s own space, the studio is also a place of community. The project was only half-finished when difficult personal circumstances brought building to a standstill. ‘One day my neighbour came over and said ‘You need to paint, you need your studio – this is from all your friends to finish it’ and she gave me an envelope of money,’ Jo recalls. ‘The coast built this studio.

Isn’t that amazing?’

I notice an old CD with an etching on the underside. A remnant of a school art class, ‘it’s about looking for beauty in the things other people have discarded,’ she tells me. ‘But also, I try and encourage the kids to take it one step forward and look at the people society has discarded … you’re going to come across people your whole life who just seem to have fallen out of the community. Don’t let them be discarded, they’ve got beauty too, you just need that bit of love and care to bring them back.’ Words to live – and build – by.

4-9 September 2018 FEATURE EVENTS: Chef Outta Water dining events, 4 - 8 September | Indulge your tastebuds with local food, wine & beer prepared by international chefs. Open Homes, Farms & Gardens, Saturday 8 September | Meet and chat with homeowners who have embraced sustainability. Sustainable Living Expo, Sunday 9 September | Gather ideas and inspiration with stalls, pop-up workshops, kids nature play and live music. Â For the full Festival of Nature program and information on guided walks, workshops, panel discussions and wellbeing classes contact Fleurieu Coast Visitor Centre 8558 0240 | www.visitfleurieucoast.com.au 43

RETAIL THERAPY

Coastal hues

A collection of unique pieces to introduce into your home and daily rituals, with the Fleurieu coastline as our muse. Be inspired...

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01: Sabella faux-leather Bag from Beaches $115. 02: Yeti Rambler bottles from Beaches $24.99-$54.99. 03: Mango Body Yogurt from The Body Shop $16. 04: Ripcurl Circa leather watch from Beaches $199.95. 05: Wall hanging from Ishka $49.95. 06: Tie-dye chair from Ishka $599. 07: Raww Cosmetics from Go Vita POA. 08: Woven basket from Canopy $49.95. 09: Fish serving bowls from Canopy $39.95.

10: Boston cement planter from Canopy $109.95.

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Meet, shop, eat & indulge Colonnades Shopping Centre | Noarlunga

Since its inception in 1979, Colonnades has evolved to become a shopping and foodie hub for the Fleurieu. Housing both boutique offerings and anchored by some of your favourite national stores, it is a destination for the stores you want and the amenities you expect. Here are some highlights we recommend ...

Cibo ‘ ... But first, coffee!’ Start your shopping experience with a slice of la dolce vita - espresso and a bite of biscotti. This little piece of Italy was brought to Adelaide in 2000 and Colonnades houses the only Cibo located on the Fleurieu, positioned in a cozy pocket of the Fresh Food Market. This particular locale is rich with personalised service, a sense of community and conveniently has a kids’ play area close by. Whether you are on the go with your KeepCup, or savouring the time with an old friend, it will be with an aromatic, perfectly extracted coffee.

Canopy Home Fashion This lifestyle boutique has long been a destination for its unique curation of homewares, gifts, decor, fashion and accessories, including brands such as Eb & Ive, Holiday Trading Co, Palas Jewellery, Rhicreative, and a collection of bespoke locally-made items. Their warm service and styling advice coupled with an inviting and inspiring space is akin to a friend’s place. Treat yourself, your living space or a loved one and enjoy the perks of their complimentary gift wrapping.

Cocolat At the centre-point of the Fresh Food Market, you will discover this mecca of indulgence. Every morning, Cocolat’s selection of award-winning delicacies are prepared by skilled chocolatiers and bakers in a cosy artisan kitchen. Cocolat treats are handcrafted using the finest local ingredients. Choose a decadent cake for your next special event or simply stop by and sink into one of their comfy lounges for a sweet moment of indulgence.

Endota Spa If relaxation and pampering is what you are seeking, then here is your haven for replenishment. Conveniently positioned near the Fresh Food Market means you can take your sensory journey further with calming fragrances and herbal tea, organic treatments inspired by the local coastal environments. Their relaxation massage is a perfect way to instil some calm. With an array of organic beauty and skincare products, candles and gifts you take some of the luxury home with you.

@colonnadesshopping 45

Above: Sarah Mitford-Burgess and Luke Schenscher.

The Fleurieu Future Leaders 2018 The Fleurieu Future Leaders (FFL) program was initiated by Charles and Janice Manning of Face the World – a boutique consulting firm. Charles and Janice are behavioural scientists. They moved to the region in 2012 and created FFL for the community in 2017.

‘The program is designed to create a pipeline of leaders to be there for the community and local businesses,’ Charles says. The people have spoken and the positive outcomes are already rolling out. Out of the 2017 participants, six new businesses were created locally including the unique offerings of the MV Meeting Place (McLaren Vale) and Tealicious Cakes (Willunga). Also, gun accountant Anita Bailetti has set up Bailetti Consulting. In addition, a few of the 2017 participants have formed a forum for local influencers called Ideas on the Fleurieu.

The program comprises of four modules, the first being a fourday intensive, in which participants spend fourteen hours a day involved in diligent learning, sharing and playing. Outreach into the community is created via guest speakers from local business leaders and entrepreneurs. This year there was also the heartfelt contributions from last year’s participants. These had many of the 2018 participants weeping. All of them are working in the community, applying their skills and working towards new goals set in part due to their conscientious learning from FFL.

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Charles and Janice have created the program so that there is a real balance of rigorous learning but also testing of abilities to both lead and to look at the specifics of their leadership style. Also what blocks them from moving ahead both personally and professionally.

This is done in part by being put into situations normally avoided.

Anyone want to go abseiling?

‘You can learn more about a person in an hour’s worth of play than in a day of conversation.’ – Plato.

And so they played, There was juggling, team challenges, walking and talking, boot camp, and games invented to challenge the team approach. Through these activities participants have to work their way through a large problem solving component. Obstacles are set up, both mental and physical. This is where different leadership styles emerge and participants start to understand how they roll when challenged. All of this work is discussed as a group. Through analysis residents learn whether they are an introvert or an extrovert, who are the diplomats and who are the bulldozers.

The twenty 2018 leaders will complete a further three learning modules before completion. We talked to four of this years’ participants to see why they applied for the FFL and how they found the four-day foundations program: Sarah Mitford-Burgess moved to the Fleurieu from Sydney in 2013 and settled in Encounter Bay where she lives with her two children. Her passion for healthy food and living prompted her to start her own small business, Real Food Life, which offers wholefood takeaway meals and raw desserts. Bringing healthy living to the community, work-life balance and a willingness to welcome change are all part of Sarah’s vision. She found the introduction module of

Above: Meagan Harrison and Steven Reeves.

‘You can learn more about a person in an hour’s worth of play than in a day of conversation.’ Plato. the Fleurieu Future Leaders Course both challenging and inspiring.

‘I hadn’t done anything like this for myself before, so the first four days were really confronting,’ she says. ‘I feel lucky to be part of this group of people. We’ve shared our stories, our vulnerabilities and our hopes. The energy has been amazing!’

Luke Schenscher enjoyed a successful basketball career playing for the Chicago Bulls, Portland Trailblazers and Adelaide 36ers. Now back on Fleurieu Peninsula soil, he is living in Inman Valley while completing a degree in secondary education. He says participating in the Fleurieu Future Leaders course is another step towards being the best version of himself. He tells me that good leadership, he believes, requires a strong understanding of your inner psyche.

‘Figure out who you are and what your personality is and how you can best incorporate that into your leadership style,’ he says. ‘Having an inclusive vision for the future that incorporates all the different interests is key. Fleurieu leaders should make decisions that aren’t based purely on immediate economic gains, but think about how any decisions are going to affect the area into the future.’

Meagan Harrison has lived in Mount Compass for the past twenty years with her husband and now two children. She’s a committed member of the local soccer club where she’s been everything from sports trainer to club president. She also works for a local community bank and is enthusiastic about investing back into a vibrant business environment. For Meagan, the Fleurieu Future Leaders has created an opportunity for her to meet like-minded people and challenge herself. ‘I feel like it’s just opened my eyes to an entirely new group of people on the Fleurieu who share the same passions, hopes, fears and dreams,’ she says. ‘The Fleurieu has so

many different areas within the region, so being inclusive of all those different areas and groups is the challenge.’

Life-long Fleurieu resident Steven Reeves runs his own construction company, SR Construct. He’s found a niche market for his business, making custom home modifications to help people living with a disability remain in their own home. Steve believes the Fleurieu Future Leaders course has already improved his management skills. ‘I definitely am more aware of where my weaknesses and strengths are and what I need to work on, and how these could have been a block in the past,’ he says. ‘A good leader needs to look into the future far enough to see where they want the area to head. They also need to be approachable for people who may not be able to lead themselves, but need someone to push issues that they may feel strongly about.’

The Fleurieu Future Leaders of 2018 come from a diverse range of backgrounds including hospitality, art, interior design, carpentry, healthcare, the wine sector, publishing and banking. The list continues with a strategist, an exercise physiologist, youth workers and a musician. There is even a space planner! With ages ranging from early twenties to near retirement, the team behind Fleurieu Future Leaders is conscious of assembling a good mix so that outcomes from the program have a positive impact on various areas of life in the region. The group is now in the midst of the three learning modules and are beginning to plan how they will create outreach into the community.

The Fleurieu Future Leaders of 2018 have only just begun to shine their light on Fleurieu life.

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exhibitions

workshops

events

Dedicated to celebrating the culture of the camera and the art of photography.

FEATURING BARAT ALI BATOOR ROBERT MCFARLANE JEFF MOORFOOT

MILTON WORDLEY

DAVE LASLETT AND INKATJA YUSEF HAYAT

ILLUMINART

ALICE BLANCH

NEVILLE CICHON

AIPP

MELISSA LITTLE

HOLLY WILSON RAYMOND MATHER ALEX MAUSOLF STEVE DUNCAN

Image: Artifact #6, Jeff Moorfoot, 2017, 100% cotton rag paper, 42 x 59.4cm

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ONKAPARINGA YOUTH

PNCC

WWW.ONKAPARINGACITY.COM/SHIMMER

More than a Wine Shop Our unique retail cellar door and tasting bar specialises in Artisan Local Producers, Organic, Bio-dynamic and International wines and more. Our Summer tasting series is a great way to try new things and talk with the producers.

Want to learn more about wine and spirits? All our people love what they do and are here to assist you. Gill is 2017 WCA Wine Educator and Communicator of the year. Our wine education workshops are affordable, inclusive and empowering and for all levels of knowledge.

Our Cellar Door is open Sundays 12 - 4 from October. Friday Night Tastings from November & available for Private Functions on Saturdays

South Seas Books

South Seas Trading

53 North Terrace, Port Elliot P: 8554 2301 www.southseasbooks.com.au

56 North Terrace, Port Elliot P: 8554 3540

is an independent bookshop on the Fleurieu’s south coast.

South Seas will ignite your imagination.

offers a selection of vintage art and design pieces · clothing · jewellery · giftware and books in an evolving Arcadian haven.

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Affectionately known as

Victor

Story by Kate Le Gallez. Photography by Heidi Lewis.

Previous page: The eclectic street sign and idyllic blue skies of Ocean Street, Victor Harbor. Above: Modern-day explorers crossing the causeway to Granite Island on the iconic horse-drawn tram.

When you ask the locals of Victor Harbor what they love about the town, they can’t always put it into words straight away.

There’s the natural beauty of the area of course. The laid-back lifestyle just a short drive south of Adelaide. The supportive community of people always willing to stop for a chat. But what quickly becomes clear to me, is the passion that Victor Harbor people have for their town; how invested they are in its future, and the sense that the phrase ‘community spirit’, so often overused, was created to describe towns like Victor.

trade from Goolwa to Port Elliot) was extended to Victor, bringing the lucrative wheat and wool trade with it.

It was around this time that the horse-drawn railway was constructed along the causeway to Granite Island to service ships coming into the harbour. This lasted until the 1890s, when rail took over from the river trade, sending Australia’s wheat and wool to alternative ports. Victor Harbor settled into life as a seaside holiday destination, while the journey of the horse-drawn rail was transformed from working route to the leisure trail that still operates today. The town’s rebirth as a strong and proud seaside community had begun.

This place has always provided for the people who’ve lived here.

Long before the famous 1802 meeting between Matthew Flinders and Nicolas Baudin, which gave Encounter Bay its current name, the Ramindjeri people hunted and gathered among the area’s fertile valleys and calm waters.

Then as now, it seems, Granite Island looms large in the community consciousness, but I struggle to remember the last time I crossed the causeway out to the island. My 34-year-old legs now make easy work of the 630m amble from the Victor Harbor foreshore. Beside me, my three-year-old skips along, taking twice the number of steps I do, as he crosses the causeway for the first time.

When South Australia was later occupied, Victor Harbor – first known as Victor Harbour and later, briefly, Port Victor – was considered as a possible site for the capital of the new colony, before Light’s vision won the day. The first non-Indigenous settlers were whalers, fisherman and sealers, drawn by the rich marine life. Then, in 1864 after a series of wrecks at Port Elliot, the railway (built to connect the river

He’s excited to be exploring somewhere new and, in some ways, I’m doing the same. Like many South Australians, I’ve visited Victor Harbor countless times before, but it was always as a visitor. Now, as of just a few months ago, I’m a Fleurieu local and Victor is my nearest metropolis. So, I’m intrigued by the signs that invite me to rediscover Granite Island. > 51

Top: The Oceanic Victor tuna diving ring taken on a day perfect for the unique underwater experience. Photo courtesy of Oceanic Victor.

Bottom left: The new street scape of Ocean Street. Middle Right: The original Steam Ranger station and railway. Bottom Right: Diners enjoying the Mexican fare at Loco.

Photo by Angela Lisman.

We’re visiting the island during a time of transition. It’s recently taken a public relations beating, following the closure of the penguin centre in 2016. But there are signs of life, not least among the small remaining population of little penguins which, though still very fragile, has stabilised with reports of new chicks just days after we visit.

Crossing the causeway, the circular form of Oceanic Victor’s in-sea aquarium comes into view, housing the so-called Ferraris of the sea, Southern bluefin tuna. The nature-based tourism business offers the chance to swim with these sleek and speedy creatures, though it’s far too cool for a dip on our visit. The operator has also established a new café on the island and runs twilight penguin spotting tours.

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Reaching the island, the eponymous rocks, crusted with orange lichen, come into view. They’ve been joined more recently by eight permanent (and a number of temporary) sculptures as part of the Sculpture Encounters – Granite Island exhibition, developed in partnership between the South Australian State Government and arts not-for-profit, Sculpture by the Sea. The sculptures are dotted along the just under three kilometre Kaiki Trail, which also takes in the magnificent views up and down the south coast.

Back on the mainland, another feature of Victor Harbor’s heritage – the railway turntable – is located just a short walk away along Flinders Parade past the towering Norfolk Island pines. The turntable, which marks the turnaround point for the beloved Cockle Train, has recently

Top left: An irresistible bowl of local seafood from Eat @ Whalers restaurant. Top right: A colourful collection of hand-crafted chocolates by Harbor Chocolate.

Bottom right: Stop by artisan coffee bar Wood for the perfectly extracted coffee. Bottom left: A small selection from the huge array of local and imported lollies, sweets and hand made fudge at All Sweets and Treats. Middle left: The art deco interior of the original Victa Cinema. Photo courtesy of Victa Cinema.

benefited from a $460,000 redevelopment. The site now includes a shelter in the shape of a train carriage, with interpretive signage for the forty-thousand passengers ferried along the line each year. But it’s the striking blue sheep, a celebration of the former wool trade, that steal my three-year-old’s heart.

Victor’s heritage and natural beauty are complemented by the many dining options. Eat at Whaler’s with its beachfront location provides the perfect setting for a menu focused on local produce. Closer to the town centre, long-time favourite Nino’s Café has been joined more recently by sister-restaurant Loco Mexican, both owned by Simon and Kirsten Pitman. Describing herself as ‘fiercely local’, Kirsten is proud of the quality and service provided in her restaurants at the same time

championing the collective spirit of the business community: ‘People care about what happens outside their front gate,’ she tells me.

Another local business owner, Glenn Wade of Raw and Harbor Chocolate echoes Kirsten’s sentiment. ‘Ninety per cent of our business is local community rather than tourism,’ he explains.

‘Without them, we wouldn’t exist.’

The level of local support has seen perennial Victor favourites like the Victa Cinema and All Sweets and Treats continue to thrive on a rejuvenating Ocean Street. More recently, a number of creative new businesses have opened, including the delightful indoor plants and homewares shop Charlie & Jack and coffee havens Qahwa and Wood Rustic Roastery, continuing to diversify the local scene. > 53

Above: Sculpture Encounters on Granite Island at dusk. Ocean Lace by Britt Mikkelsen (WA). Photo by Ron Langman.

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Then as now, it seems, Granite Island looms large in the community consciousness, but I struggle to remember the last time I crossed the causeway out to the island.

Top left: One of the beauties who pulls the horse-drawn tram. Top right: The original Steam Ranger Station. Above: Kleinigs Hill Lookout.

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Top left: Charlie & Jack owner Kristy, surrounded by plants and homewares in her light-filled store. Top right: View from the counter at Qahwa Espresso Bar, with tables and umbrellas spilling into the sunshine and sand of the adjacent beach-volleyball courts. Bottom left: The serene space of The Joyful Buddhas Wellness and Yoga Studio. Bottom right: Unique hand cut ‘Community Dogs’ from the collective artists of Warlukurlangu from Yuendumu. Available at Kiri Kiri Art.

Victor Harbor’s unique mix of natural beauty, laidback lifestyle and vibrant community spirit is something to be treasured and enjoyed, now and in the years to come.

Alongside, these ventures, Victoria MacKirdy, CEO City of Victor Harbor, touts the burgeoning local arts movement which, as well as Sculpture Encounters, includes a digital art projector on the main street, the Railway Terrace Artisan Markets, and new public artworks being incorporated into Victor’s public spaces. ‘It means that there is now so much more for people to discover in Victor Harbor, and I can

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see that this is something that will only grow into the future, making it a destination for the arts, as well as nature and fun,’ Victoria says.

As a new resident on her own tour of discovery, I can only concur.

Victor Harbor’s unique mix of natural beauty, laidback lifestyle and vibrant community spirit is something to be treasured and enjoyed, now and in the years to come.

Want insurance that suits your needs?

At Elders Insurance our objective is to provide an easy, streamlined process delivered by friendly local people who take the time to understand your needs, so you have the right cover for your situation.

With this in mind, you can turn to Adam Bowden at Elders Insurance Southern Fleurieu.

As a local, Adam has a strong understanding of our region and all it has to offer. Adam is enthusiastic about all he does and is passionate about supporting local business and the community.

If local knowledge, open and honest communication, and an efficient hassle-free claims service are important to you, give Adam a call for a fresh approach to your insurance needs.

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Call Adam Bowden on 0436 412 695 Underwritten by QBE Insurance (Australia) Limited ABN 78003191035 AFSL 239545. Call us for a Product Disclosure Statement to decide if a product is right for you.

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A home with a heart

Story by Esther Thorn. Photography by Robert Geh. Styling by Little Road Home.

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Previous page: The old shed was rescued from the overgrowth and lovingly restored. Above: The elegantly designed extension gives a new lease of life to this historic cottage. Photo by Jason Porter.

‘Are you up for the challenge?’ reads the real estate brochure. It depicts a badly framed photo of a dilapidated, old house surrounded by overgrown shrubs. It’s the same Willunga cottage I’m sitting in, eating waffles and drinking tea at the kitchen table, but it’s almost unrecognisable, after an epic transformation by owners Kerstin and Jay Holata.

Kerstin has detailed the labour of love in a scrapbook, which opens with that somewhat ominous real estate ad. ‘It was just so rundown,’ Kerstin explains. ‘When we rang the agent about it, he told us he wouldn’t even speak to us until we’d called the council and found out everything that was wrong with it.’

The list of problems was jaw-dropping: an incorrect boundary dissecting the house, a local heritage encumbrance, an asbestos lean-to, no foundations and a veritable possum graveyard in the ceiling. But Kerstin and Jay were ‘up for the challenge’.

They’d been living in Melbourne, and after the birth of their third son, they were looking for a big backyard and a slower-paced life. ‘We’d owned a vineyard at Blewitt Springs and we loved the Fleurieu,’ Kerstin says. ‘We looked and looked for something with a decent amount of space, but we just couldn’t find anything.’

Then Jay stumbled across the Willunga cottage. ‘I turned a corner, parked the car at the top of the drive and saw the view and it was love at first sight,’ he tells me with a smile. ‘The views were breathtaking and I thought, “I can do this”.’

That was six years ago. Today the property is a warm, light-filled, family home, that seamlessly blends old with new. The asbestos addition has been replaced with an elegantly designed extension that gives a new lease of life to this historic cottage.

I flip to the next page of scrapbook photos and find a picture of Kerstin’s father and Jay carefully taking off the enormous slabs of slate from the floor. They numbered each piece in position before removing it, levelling the dirt and then replacing the slate. It’s just one example of the energy and care they put into preserving as much of the original building as possible. > 59

Above left: Lovebirds loving their new home. Above right: Kerstin is in the midst of creating a lovely mosaic design on the stairs leading up to the road. Next page: The large deck is oriented northwest and captures views of the townships of Willunga and Aldinga – all the way down to the coast.

Kerstin and Jay have applied the same mix of hard work and tenacity to the exterior of the home, including the garden.

The cottage was built in 1847 by the Rielly family, Irish labourers who’d fled the potato famine. It had stayed in the same family for generations, until Jay and Kerstin bought it.

The Holatas are erudite, hardworking and intelligent, but they admit that when they were given the keys to the cottage, the task ahead was daunting. ‘The only thing I liked about the place was the kitchen fireplace,’ Kerstin says. ‘The bedroom was still full of the furniture of the old lady who lived here, including her slippers under the bed.’

Every piece of wood or slate in the cottage was covered in layers of paint, which Kerstin painstakingly scraped off, while her three young children played at her feet. ‘We couldn’t live in the cottage so we rented and any spare minute we had, we’d go there and work on it,’ Kerstin says. ‘It was like an archaeological dig — we pulled back the carpet and underneath it there was lino, and then magazines from the 1950s and finally the slate.’

When they cut back the overgrown shrubs and brambles they uncovered an old, stone shed, which Jay rebuilt by hand. They learned to create dry stone walls and discovered the best way to apply a lime render. ‘I’m a scientist so I researched everything,’ Kerstin tells me. ‘I looked at every type of lime until someone told me to use French lime, which actually self heals.’ It’s given a softness and fluidity to the building, imbuing the walls with humanity.

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Jay and Kerstin made only two major changes to the original structure. They knocked out a wall dividing the kitchen and bedroom, to create a larger kitchen. They also took apart a small slate wall at the back of the house. ‘When we did that I was very mindful of the hands that had built it in the first place,’ Kerstin says. ‘It gave us a real understanding of how the house was made.’ When the restoration was finally complete, Jay and Kerstin were rewarded with a heritage award from the Onkaparinga Council. ‘It was actually a huge thing for us, because it had been such an enormous amount of work, over such a long time, and it was really wonderful to have acknowledgement of that,’ Kerstin says.

But there was little time to bask in the glory; they now had to turn the 170-year-old cottage into a comfortable family home for their rapidly growing boys. ‘We had to have a house that would accommodate five adults, because we planned to be here for the long haul,’ Jay says.

The cottage is perched on the top of a sloping block, with a winter creek at the bottom of it. Jay knew at first glance that the only way to extend would be to build down the hill. But how to do that, while safeguarding the integrity of the cottage, posed a problem.

The Holatas sought advice from Council’s heritage advisor and then went to local builder Bailey Homes with a challenging brief. The extension had to be modern and big enough for their large family, but it couldn’t detract from, or overshadow the cottage. Jay and Kerstin were clear that the cottage had to remain the ‘heart’ of the home. >

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Top: The outdoor area behind the old cottage is full of charm, with a beautiful little garden and sheltered seating area carved out of the hillside. Bottom: The upstairs bathroom is an exercise in elegance, with floor-to-ceiling travertine tiles.

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Top left: The earthiness of the old cottage wall on the right in hand-rendered French lime transitions well to the new build through careful use of colour. Top right and bottom left: The old cottage houses the kitchen and a quaint eating area. Kerstin carefully selected the materials, appliances and furnishings to sit comfortably in the the earthy interior. Bottom right: A room with a view.

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Above: The new living space transitions into a large balcony that makes the most of the sweeping views that first captured Jay’s imagination.

‘It was like an archaeological dig – we pulled back the carpet and underneath it there was lino, and then magazines from the 1950s, and finally the slate.’

‘I was really proud that they felt confident in us, because it was such a complex project,’ Managing Director Don Bailey explains.

‘We hadn’t worked on anything like this before and I was really excited about it.’

The new addition is connected to the old cottage in a feat of engineering that’s all the more impressive because you barely notice it. Before building could begin, tonnes of rock had to be removed from the hillside below the cottage. ‘There were a few hold-yourbreath moments,’ Don says. ‘We couldn’t use big machinery because of the risk of causing damage to the walls, which are basically just made of mud-pie.’

Using just a small jack-hammer and an innovative chemical rocksplitting technique, Don and his team were able to complete the excavation without a single crack in the walls. They then installed huge concrete pylons into the hill, on which the extension is built.

Thus, by a combination of clever planning, careful work and a bit of good luck, the floor of the new building meets the level of the original slate slabs within a millimetre.

Step through the kitchen door and you enter a light-filled corridor, which opens out into a generous living space. Recycled messmate floorboards span the length of the room, and bring a complementary warmth to the slate floors of the cottage. The walls of the new building aren’t uniformly at right angles and the different facets are a nod to the irregularity of the old walls.

The roofline of the extension is broken up into similar, small angles.

It’s the joint brainchild of Council’s heritage advisor Andrew Stevens and Don Bailey, who both recognised the importance of a roofline that didn’t ‘swamp’ the cottage. ‘It was quite an unconventional project,’ says Don. ‘Kerstin and Jay were great to work with and we shared a lot of ideas.’ Every obstacle became an opportunity for ‘out 64

of the box’ thinking. The result is an abundance of beautiful and creative features in the home.

The new living space transitions into a large balcony that makes the most of the sweeping views that first captured Jay’s imagination. In the main bedroom, double-glazed windows, imported from Europe, frame the tapestry of green vineyards rolling into a blue-grey ocean.

The upstairs bathroom is an exercise in elegance, with floor-toceiling travertine tiles. ‘I do love this bathroom,’ Kerstin admits.

‘Everyone told me we couldn’t use travertine because it’s too irregular, but I knew we could.’ The end result is spectacular; more rustic than marble, but with similar colouring and concentric lines. Down the timber stairs are another two bedrooms, a bathroom and a living space, where the boys are lounging during the school holidays.

Kerstin and Jay have applied the same mix of hard work and tenacity to the exterior of the home, including the garden. Brambles and weeds have been replaced with lawn, flowers and veggie beds.

The creek bed has been cleverly defined with native plants and rocks from the excavation.

We’ve reached the end of the scrapbook, but I flick back to the beginning; the real estate ad where it all began. Underneath Kerstin has scrawled: ‘This is the beautifully presented property that made us think ‘yes, we’ve found our dream home.’ It’s a bit of a joke, a light-hearted remark about the derelict state of the house they bought. But the comment also encompasses the couple’s ability to see beauty where others see despair. ‘We really hope to inspire people to preserve these old homes,’ Kerstin says. ‘With a bit of work and creative thinking they can be really liveable.’

With the help of a clever builder, the Holatas have put the heart back into a forlorn little cottage, and in doing so, they’ve created a family home filled with warmth and love.

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Captured – From Dark Room to Digital – The Tradition Lives On at Signal Point Gallery, Goolwa Wharf Precinct from 1 to 23 September String Fever* at Centenary Hall, Goolwa on 22 September Genesis – Brenda Holden and David Hamilton at Signal Point Gallery, Goolwa Wharf Precinct from 24 September to 4 November Solastalgia at South Coast Regional Art Centre, Goolwa from 4 October to 25 November Making Mozart – The da Ponte Project* at Centenary Hall, Goolwa on 13 October

Band of The South Australian Police* at Centenary Hall, Goolwa on 27 October Youth Showcase Extravaganza at Centenary Hall, Goolwa on 2 November Annual Regional Youth Art Exhibition at Signal Point Gallery, Goolwa Wharf Precinct from 9 November to 2 December Laklinyeri – Family at Signal Point Gallery, Goolwa Wharf Precinct from 9 November to 9 December 39 Forever - Amity Dry* at Centenary Hall, Goolwa on 17 November * tickets/ booking required

For bookings and enquiries please visit www.visitalexandrina.com or call Council’s Visitor Information Centre on 1300 466 592. Alexandrina Council continues the ‘Just Add Water’ arts and culture program in 2018. View a copy online for more events in the region at www.alexandrina.sa.gov.au/JAW 65

Above: Marie Sulda in her home office.

Changing the game Story by Corrina Wright. Photograph by Angela Lisman.

Sometimes you can pinpoint the exact moment that gives you the impetus to turn a business idea into reality. For Marie Sulda, that moment was three years ago when she attended a glamorous travel industry awards night. While collecting a number of accolades, she looked out over the audience and noticed that the room was filled with men in suits – there were very few women. She commented to a colleague that it seemed a bit strange, especially given the majority of travel consultants were female.

It was the oh-so-quick reply, ‘oh no, that’s just because these are all the owners,’ that Marie remembers as being the final push she needed. Not happy with the status quo, she made the decision then and there to begin her journey creating her own business, Kaleidoscopic Travel, changing the game entirely as she went along.

Marie has lived on the Fleurieu for most of her life; she travelled extensively and lived abroad and interstate before deciding to embark on a career in tourism. By 2007 she had moved back to Adelaide and was working in business development for Phil Hoffmann Travel. One thing that became apparent, however, was the stress and anxiety that her predominantly female staff were under, as they struggled to juggle family life and their work. That old chestnut called work-life balance seemed to raise its ugly head on a regular basis. With two children herself, Marie began to think that there must be a better way.

Around the same time, the travel business landscape was starting to change. She heard tales of stores closing as companies struggled to deal with rising overhead costs. It was then that Marie’s idea began to take shape. What if there was a way for experienced women to be their own bosses – was it possible that travel consultants could work from their own space, with their own networks of customers all over the country, but still be part of a team? Marie knew she was onto something and decided to make the jump into her own business, with dreams of franchising, in 2013. She knew she wanted her business to be flexible, multifaceted and ever-changing, so the business was christened as Kaleidoscopic Travel. Travel consultants

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became ‘travel designers’, and five years later, Marie now has thirteen franchisees.

Launching her business using the previously-untapped social media space also proved a windfall. Social media had not been used very effectively by the travel industry, and Marie saw huge potential to advertise packages. This guerrilla marketing tactic made the industry suppliers and customers alike sit up and take notice quickly and the business rapidly gained traction.

Underlying all of this was Marie’s strong conviction that travel is vital to creating a more tolerant society. She is convinced that by immersing yourself in other cultures, you cannot help but have your mindset changed and eyes opened to other people and ways of doing things. In short, travel changes people, and Marie loves being able to facilitate that change – it is her ultimate driver. She is also determined to give back, and for each international booking, a birthing kit is donated to those in need in developing countries.

Award after award has followed Marie along the way, including the SA Owner/Entrepreneur Leader of the Year for the Institute of Managers and Leaders in 2017. So what’s next for this dynamo?

Marie has one franchisee in Queensland, so she wants to focus on expanding the business there, ensuring the owner has a local network to bounce off. The bigger dream is to set up 20 franchisees in every state, or as Marie puts it, ‘an Australia-wide tribe of happy and successful small business gurus.’

Marie has certainly ticked a lot of the boxes she aimed to achieve.

She wanted to enable women to own their own businesses. Tick.

She wanted to make sure the business had flexibility for women needing to juggle the demands of family. Tick. She wanted to cut overheads out of the travel business and get rid of bricks and mortar.

Tick. She wanted to shake up traditional marketing. Tick. She wanted to live and work from her beautiful Fleurieu region with her girls, winemaker husband and new puppy. Tick. I for one can’t wait to see what the next five years has in store. Just like her namesake, Kaleidoscope, I’m sure she won’t be sitting still for one second.

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A work of life, love and memories Story by Petra de Mooy. Photography by Angela Lisman.

Previous page and above: Janet’s watercolour studies from a very important part of her work.

As I drive up the steep single-lane road that leads to Janet Ayliffe’s home and studio, I am aware that the views are spectacular, but I dare not take my eyes off the road as I may go over the steep embankment. What if someone is coming down while I go up? The ascent creates anticipation. Where am I going to end up?

And how many times does this road wind up the hill before I can stop gripping the steering wheel with white knuckles?

Finally I’m at the the peak of the hill and there are three homes in front of me. The winter rains have created a lush pasture across the gentler slope at the top. As I wind my way down Janet’s driveway, I see her two donkeys Mary and Munch.

It’s a truly special place. Janet and her husband, artist Glen Ash, bought this land over forty years ago with a group of friends – most of whom are still their neighbours. It’s kind of like a suburban strata

title, but on an acreage. The like-minded souls who had the foresight to create this little paradise are now well settled in their private haven just above the Kangarilla township.

Janet greets me at the bottom of her rambling garden. After being there for only a few minutes, I begin to sense that she is a woman of great integrity and grace. She lovingly acknowledges all of her children within minutes and has a great love and appreciation of her parents. She is also conscious of paying homage to her influences and sources; if she borrows an image of a map or chart she always asks permission.

Janet puts a high value on reusing and recycling. Much of the home and studio is created from recycled products. ‘Our son Gabriel made this whole studio while he was studying architecture out of second-hand stuff,’ Janet proudly tells me. The building has excellent features, like good natural light and high ceilings. Glen’s painting studio is downstairs and Janet has a small studio upstairs. There are windows facing north, south, east and west, giving a nice even light, with gorgeous views of the landscape.

Janet’s drawings are created in this formal studio. ‘This is one of my new ones,’ she says, pointing to a finely detailed work on a large table. Native birds are often the central image in the work. > 69

Top left: Signs of Grace – watercolour painting. Top right: The Southern Pygmy Possums and the Carpenter Bee – etching and lino print. Bottom left: The Banded Stilts – etching. Middle left: The Black Glossy and Red tailed Black Cockatoos – etching. Middle right: The long walk of welcome – etching. Right: Albert and the Constellations – etching.

This one is of nankeen night herons. She uses pen and ink and brush and renders the etchings onto architectural tracing paper. The inspiration always comes from places she knows, and the works have a strong narrative theme, inspired by her personal experiences.

They have great appeal in their use of layering and colour. Janet is a master at creating mesmerising compositions. In the images you will find fragments of landscapes, beautifully illustrated plants, trees, waterways, skies and many birds. ‘I love birds,’ she explains. She also draws inspiration from her home, including images of her pets, her house and her gardens. The compositions are created using multiple plate etchings, printmaking and watercolour.

Inside her home Janet has another lovely little studio that she calls her ‘factory.’ It has a large printing press and is full of supplies and books. It also has photos of her family and countless interesting curios. Things that matter, things that have meaning ... and things Janet needs.

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For some time Janet taught alongside her art enterprise, but she has made a good living from selling her work. ‘Glen and I both do,’ she says honestly. ‘Not company cars but absolutely keeping afloat.

I am saying that not to be boastful or immodest, but people have a stereotypical view of artists – that we are all starving and love to starve. Well, I don’t love to starve. Also there is a misconception that we might be layabouts waiting for inspiration, but most of us work very hard.’ Janet has good representation through galleries both interstate and overseas, and she is very careful to maintain those relationships.

Janet grew up on Kangaroo Island and it has remained an important influence on her work. The Ayliffes now go back five generations on the island. Closer to Adelaide the family history is also evident, with one of the city’s main arterial roads named in their honour. ‘That was after my great-grandmother bought land and sent her sons over,’ says Janet. ‘I was born in a very fine place on KI. I was really well cared for and looked after and it was wonderful growing up. My

Top: Janet Ayliffe in her studio. Bottom left: Meeting the Owl Family again – etching. Middle left: Molly and Milly consider the possum – etching. Middle right: Norman and Milly count the possum – etching. Right: Of the Carpenter Bee – etching.

mother made an arrangement with the school that we only had to go if we wanted to and she gave us all a wall in the house to draw and paint on.’

The children were quite free, but they did have to keep themselves busy so that work could get done. Despite this freedom, Janet actually did want to go to school and went a fair bit. ‘But it was lovely having a choice,’ she says. ‘So we drew and painted and roamed around and became filthy – we were so lucky.’

Once they entered middle school all of the children were sent to boarding school. ‘So we went to Australia (referring to Adelaide) to finish school,’ says Janet. ‘I was so homesick, almost crippled by it, but I made lovely friends and had amazing teachers.’

As a young adult, Janet thought she might study microbiology and had put all the plans in place. ‘I remember being at the KI airport with Dad and suddenly saying, “I have changed my mind, I want to go to art school”.’ Janet appreciates that her father was happy to hear this

and supported her decision. ‘I went at a time when it was very formal and learned great technique,’ she says. Janet learned printmaking and had a wonderful teacher in Franz Kempf. Janet deliberately chose printmaking and likes the democratic approach, where she can sell both original works and also prints, which she creates in limited editions.

Some forty years on from the fateful decision, Janet has created a life of work, love and reflection. ‘That work is about where I live and what I have known,’ she says. ‘It is about the island and here (Kangarilla) and our travels.’ Janet has a deep connection and care for the natural world, and she imbues her artwork with this, gently paying homage to all of the places, people and animals she holds in her memories old and new.

Janet’s work is available on the Fleurieu at Artworx Gallery in Goolwa.

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Paige Olsen extols

The importance of a daily practice Let the beauty we love be what we do. There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground.

Rumi

‘The physics of devotion,’ Tai Chi Master Zi says, ‘is the undeniable benefit to one’s life through applied knowledge put into constant practice.’ This statement naturally leads one to question: what am I devoted to? What do I want to cultivate?

What wakes up my spirit and tickles my soul? What makes me want to get out of bed in the morning, or calms my anxious mind if I am struggling to face the day?

What is it that gives me access to the deepest essence of who I am and brings it forth to shine in the world?

And if I know the answer, how can I incorporate that into my daily life?

We all have unique paths that lead us to recovery or enlightenment.

In 1997, after years of seeking advice from an array of medical specialists, I was diagnosed with Chronic Fatigue Syndrome. At that time, minimal research had been conducted on the condition and I was left with little in the way of answers or possible cures. As luck would have it, I came across an ad that said something about wanting more energy and the ancient practice of Qi Gong.

Classes began the following weekend so I committed to showing up. We didn’t learn many movements that first day, however I took everything to heart and practiced morning and night, as instructed, and within a week I realised I wasn’t sleeping in the middle of the 72

day anymore; my digestion had improved and I was retaining body weight. This moment in time was pivotal for me – there was finally something I could do about my health.

I grew to love the practice of Qi Gong but more importantly I grew to realise the importance of having a daily practice. This can be anything you love to do or want to master – it can even be a means to an end if you are working towards a goal or trying to crawl out of a dark place. So, what could yours be? Some choose meditation or painting while others may sway towards rock climbing or gardening. I even know a woman whose daily practice is ironing her partner’s shirts. It may sound strange, but her intention is to cultivate presence in the daily things she does around loving her partner. Whatever you choose – no matter how big or small – do it with intention and the physics of devotion will give you a deeper understanding of self, purely by means of repetition. It’s true what they say ... repetition is the mother of insight.

Over the past twenty years of having a variety of daily practices, I have found these routines and rituals to be valuable in times of struggle. A daily practice is easy when I’m on top of the world but once times are tough it can take an army to make me show up. And to be completely honest, sometimes I fail.

As tricky as it is to get moving when we are sick, overworked, grieving or even in shock, this is precisely when a daily practice is most important. Even if it means modification to suit the situation, the cumulative effects of ‘sweat equity’ kick in to carry me through and every single time, I am better for it. No joke, it’s true. Just show up ... to class, to your altar, or even to the ironing board.

Paige Olsen (pictured above) teaches Qi Gong at Fleurieu Yoga on Friday mornings.

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Above: Large cuttlefish wall hanging from the Alpine Peaks series.

Hanging memories

Story by Kimberley Goodman. Photograph by Angela Lisman.

Like many of Bernadette Kelly’s creative projects, her latest venture wasn’t intended for sale. It was while on maternity leave that she began searching the Fleurieu’s beaches for cuttlebone; she wanted to use them in a wall hanging for her home.

When she posted a photo on social media of the manicured structure entwined with palm fronds, it caught the eye of friends – that’s when Bernadette knew she had stumbled across a unique market.

This unexpected interest from friends is where her new project began, and Bernadette quickly began juggling her new role as the creative behind this new art form with her other jobs as a mother and hairdresser.

Bernadette’s innate artistic flair, resourceful nature and signature coastal style are visible in every sculpture; each taking on its own personality. They are carefully structured to obtain a refined balance that captures the essence of minimal style, while showcasing the raw and earthy edge of the region. With these different character traits making each piece individual, Bernadette finds that her pieces naturally fall into the right home, elevating their surrounds with strong textural contrasts and impressionistic designs. ‘They’ve definitely become bigger and more refined as time goes on,’ Bernadette says.

‘I love that really fibrous look but I’m all about balance.’

While eccentric in style, Bernadette’s pieces also hold an intangible narrative. Natural resources come with an unpredictability that attaches stories and memories to each piece. She often finds herself connected to the end product – taken back to the moments and places that encapsulate their creation.

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As Bernadette shares those memories with me, she recalls one hot summer’s day when her small family journeyed to a deserted area of the Fleurieu coastline – at the time, the cuttlebone count was low.

It had been an epic trip by four-wheel drive, barge, and kilometres on foot, before they found what they were looking for. They returned home exhausted. ‘It was 38 degrees and I had a garbage bag (filled with cuttlebones) over my back,’ she laughs. That memory is now captured in a wall hanging she created in the days after.

With each piece taking time and energy, Bernadette intends on keeping the availability of her hangings limited, which is why she only sells them at Mist in Port Elliot.

A connection to her home environment and the people within it are part of Bernadette’s distinguished style, and she has every intention of retaining this idiosyncratic flair. Each one is made within the safe space of her home, while still juggling the rest of her world. ‘I like the freedom of taking over my house with bits and pieces,’ she tells me.

‘I don’t think I could ever work in a studio space or have certain days where I commit to only my wall-hangings.’

Bernadette has creativity in her bones. Every activity she pursues transforms into an outlet for her mind, which is evident in the modern and natural aesthetic of her home. ‘If you’re a creative person I think it just flows into all aspects of your life,’ she says. ‘Whether it’s how you dress, or how you design your home.’

While she developed her eye for detail while taking in the fine architecture of Italy, Bernadette tells me that Sydney is a place which strongly resonates with her design aesthetic. ‘They’ve got a really clever blend of very modern and spacious interiors, with a lot of natural textures that warm the space as well,’ she says. ‘I like to think I’m doing a little bit of that by using natural materials in my creations.’

Seeing her creations hanging in different homes still excites Bernadette, once again bringing back those memories attached to each piece; it fuels the fire in her, to take on the next creative project.

Note: When we arrived at Bernadette’s to take a photo of her wall sculptures we loved her home so much we decided we had to feature it as well. (See page 16.)

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The magic of biodynamics Story by Melissa Brown of Gemtree Wines.

Previous page: Nettle drying and hanging ready for biodynamic compost preparation 504 at Paxton Wines. Above: Ulli Spranz co-founded B.-d. Farm Paris Creek 30 years ago (now under new ownership) and spearheaded the biodynamic movement on the Fleurieu.

Spraying manure when the moon is opposite Saturn or burying cow horns on winter solstice may sound to many like the workings of witchcraft or some kind of cult. However, it’s far from either of these and, believe it or not, has been growing in popularity, especially here on the Fleurieu. So, what exactly is ‘moon juice’ spray, as some call it? Why are farmers adopting these practices and how does it differ from organic farming?

As a biodynamic grape grower, I often get asked many questions like these, about a practice which has been in existence since the 1920s.

Biodynamic farming began from a series of eight agricultural lectures given by philosopher Rudolf Steiner in 1942 at the estate of Count and Countess Keyserlingk in Koberwitz, Germany. The lectures were held in response to farmers’ concerns about the dramatic depletion of soil, despite the recently developed NPK (Nitrogen-PhosphorusPotassium) fertilisers which became more broadly available at that time. Steiner pointed out the importance of increasing the health of microorganisms and therefore creating a balance in the soil, rather than only feeding the plants with artificial nutrients.

Steiner also developed anthroposophical medicine. It’s widely practised in Europe, where there are several hospitals entirely under anthroposophical management, as well as a highly accredited medical university integrated at the Herdecke Hospital. He was founder of the Waldorf Educational Movement, which has become one of the most popular global education systems (also known as the ‘Steiner school system’, which is growing in popularity in South Australia) and he practised a specific architectural system on which many famous buildings are based. The Goetheanum in Dornach,

Switzerland, his first and most impressive of the buildings, today hosts many international congresses.

So, what exactly is biodynamic farming and is it really such a good model for sustainability? Personally, I made the switch to biodynamics because of its focus on soil improvement – it makes sense to me and I also think it’s better for the vineyard in the long term. It came from a desire to minimise the toxic load on the environment around me, on the people working in our vineyards and the people consuming our wines.

Ulli and Helmut Spranz founded B.-d Farm Paris Creek 30 years ago, the biodynamic-organic dairy manufacturer between Meadows and Strathalbyn. Ulli tells me there are no nasty chemicals used in biodynamic practices. The spray is produced by burying manurefilled cow horns on the summer solstice ever year and digging them up on the winter solstice. ‘We make so-called preparations, they are prepared in some cases over one year,’ Ulli says. ‘The preparations are made from herbs and minerals and they benefit soil and plants.

They are sprayed out on a regular basis.’ >

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Top: Gemtree’s striking mural is the centrepiece of their biodynamic hut. Above left: Old vine shiraz at Paxton Wines. Above right and below: Cow horns are filled with cow manure and buried underground for twelve months. They are then emptied and the contents are used as fertiliser – mixed with water and sprayed throughout the vineyards when required.

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Top: At Gemtree Vineyards they rely heavily on sheep for weed control both post-harvest and over winter. It’s a low-cost method that also yields the benefits of manure by fertilising the vines. Bottom left: BD work on preparations. Right: A Scottish Highland cow: ‘I am just here for show. Don’t mess with me.’

The spray doesn’t only enhance a balance in the soil, it also regulates minerals by releasing trace elements in the soil, and increases the strength of plant growth and plant health. ‘This way, we don’t destroy what we don’t want, but we strengthen what we do want,’ Ulli explains. ‘All creatures, bacteria, fungi as well as plants including so called weeds, and everything part of nature, has its place, it just depends on a healthy balance. Biodynamics is a win-win for everyone. Soil, plants, animals, farmers, consumers, flora and fauna and providing the best for the environment.’

Ok. So, that sounds like a good philosophy, but what has the moon got to do with it? Madeleine and Liam Burns have been practising biodynamics on their beef cattle property in Finniss since 2004.

Their business is called Triple B, Burns Biodynamic Beef – they make fortnightly deliveries of biodynamic beef to customers all over Adelaide. When it comes to the moon’s influence, Madeleine explains that most people understand that it affects gravity and tides around the world. Well, it also affects the rise and fall of moisture in the soil. ‘Biodynamics also takes into consideration the movement and position of planets which, when in line, increases the gravity pull on

earth and moisture,’ Madeleine says. ‘This is evident during a full moon when there is high water potential, which is why rainfall often occurs around a full moon.’

Ben Paxton from Paxton Wines helped me further understand how the moon helps the growth of plants. ‘As the moon draws away from the earth (ascending) there is more activity above the ground,’ he says. ‘This is when we will concentrate on the foliage and fruiting areas of the vines. The best times to harvest fruit are during an ascending moon. When the moon is pushing closer (descending) to the earth the subsurface is most active and this when the roots will be most responsive.’

Converting a farm to the biodynamic regime requires a high level of commitment. Moving away from using herbicides and fungicides is a big leap of faith for a conventional farmer – there is also a certain level of risk involved in the conversion process when you are still learning the ropes. I can speak from my own personal experience in that I had to convince everybody involved in the vineyard – from my father, the property owner, our vineyard manager and workers > 79

Top: The biodynamic vineyards of Paxton Wines. Bottom left: The TripleB – Burns’ Biodynamic Beef cows at their Finniss property. Above: Alpaca photo bomber at Gemtree Vineyards.

that herbicides were no longer an option to control weeds, and we had to find another way. Convincing people to view weeds as part of the farm’s ecosystem, rather than an enemy that had to be obliterated, required determination and a strong commitment to find alternative methods to work with them. Madeleine Burns agrees, telling me that a ‘high level of commitment and vigilance is required to maintain the overall health of the soil, farm and animals’.

What about the cost of running a biodynamic farm? Is it expensive? Ben Paxton says while they have saved on some costs, more hours in the vineyard are needed. ‘It does cost more and we continue to adjust our systems and methods,’ he says. ‘To be certified as biodynamic requires a high level of commitment and takes a lot of time and effort.’ At Gemtree Wines, we rely heavily on sheep for weed control post-harvest. It’s the same over winter, as it’s a low-cost method in which we also reap the benefits of their manure. During the growing season, however, we use a combination of mechanical methods which are slow and require a number of passes, so what we save on the one hand, we lose on the other.

Supporters of the biodynamic philosophy believe there are benefits to both the earth and consumers. ‘We have many loyal consumers with multiple health issues in their families, from a variety of

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syndromes such as food allergies; auto-immune deficiencies and they are adamant that the benefits they get from our biodynamic beef are real and noticeable’ Madeleine Burns says.

Many believe that biodynamics has a beneficial effect on the quality of the final product as well. Ben Paxton tells me that his vines are more disease resistant as well as drought tolerant. ‘In the winery we have high success with wild (natural) ferments due to the fact we do not wipe out all of the natural yeasts in the vineyard with high rates of fungicides,’ he says. At Gemtree, we have less pest and disease problems now than when we were running the vineyard conventionally, and the quality of our grapes and wine continue to improve year-on-year.

The number of businesses which are biodynamic on the Fleurieu are continuing to grow, including Hedonist Wines, Yangarra Winery and more recently, d’Arenberg Wines. From wine and beef to dairy products, it is a growing movement. Ulli and Helmut Spranz have been influential from the early days, offering regular workshops, co-ordinating monthly meetings and, in general, gathering momentum for the movement. Ben Paxton really sums why it’s so prominent here: ‘Who wouldn’t want to produce the highest quality offering, utilising proven sustainable methods in one of the most beautiful regions around the world?’ My thoughts exactly.

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Above: Lisa and Mark McCarthy of McLaren Vale Orchards have had a spot at the market since day one.

More than a market There’s something special about the Willunga Farmers’ Market. You can feel it as you walk past the colourful stalls, all abuzz with activity. It feels comfortable, friendly and relaxed.

While it’s built a fine reputation statewide, this market blossomed from humble beginnings. It was in 2002 that a brave handful of farmers and producers pitched shelters and trestle tables in the hotel car park.

Jen Hanna from Piccolo Espresso tells us that, at the time, the local pub offered to supply the coffee. However, organisers discovered the publicans were not in fact ‘morning people’ when they simply brought out a large tin of Nescafe. ‘I offered to bring down my small Cimbali coffee machine and set it up on a trestle until we found a coffee replacement,’ Jen says. Famous last words, sixteen years on she is still there!

And so, Jen’s Piccolo Espresso was born at the same time as the market, as was Bickleigh Vale Farm and McLaren Vale Orchards.

These stallholders, along with many others, are part of the fabric of this market. It’s what makes it so special. In all those years, Jen has only missed one market. ‘As a single mum with a four-year-old about to start school, the weekly alarm to get us up and off to the market became a way of life,’ Jen says. ‘Usually dark and often cold, I cannot recall a single word of complaint from my daughter, as she grew up with the market. It was a fun place, always welcoming and where we both made new and eventually life long friends.’

For Jo Reschke, the market is one of the few shopping experiences which she undertakes on an empty stomach, just so she can munch

on some local treats while there. ‘The comfort and crunch of Jim’s Little Acre mushroom and gruyere toastie – oh the stretch of the melted cheese!’ she says with excitement. What’s made the place special for Jo, though, is its community feel. ‘Even though the market is a public place, it feels like everybody’s private back yard,’ she says.

‘You can’t walk more than a couple of steps without encountering someone you know.’

Many of them are the stall holders themselves who welcome all with smiles that melt the frost from even the most bitter of winter mornings. After only a couple of visits, she tells me, most stallholders will start greeting you by name. Market member, Paul Richards, sees the market in the same light, as a positive place full of smiling people.

Even in its early days, the sense of community at the market was strong. With the market, catch ups with friends become a weekly occurrence. The friendly village-like atmosphere pairs brilliantly with the amazing quality of local produce. For shopper Airlie Waller, the core elements of the market – the freshness, the people and the shopping environment – blend seamlessly together. ‘The stall holders make it great.’ she says. ‘Being there every week before sunrise to set up and actually being a farmer – it’s not a job for everyone – but we can’t live without them.’

Another shopper, David Montgomery, admits From Humble Grounds’ coffee and muffnuts are his weekly guilty pleasure. ‘You meet all your friends and catch up on what has been going on in their lives, have a coffee, breakfast and take a break,’ he says.

Whether it’s the freshness of Jill’s herbs and salad leaves at Herbivorous, sipping on a kombucha or eating what is in season and picked fresh locally – the simple pleasures of life are what you’ll find here.

Every Saturday 8am ‘til 12:30pm

Meet the grower, TASTE THE REGION Follow us: @willungafarmersmarket Located at Willunga Town Square, Willunga www.willungafarmersmarket.com.au Members save 10% at all stalls – sign up now! willungafarmersmarket.com.au/membership 82

Deep Water Medicine

Acupuncture | Chinese Herbs | Counselling Chinese medicine for a flourishing community

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Paddock to plate Nose to tail Root to leaf

SMILING SAMOYED BREWERY Open for lunch every day Hansen Street, Myponga. Telephone 8558 6166 bookings@smilingsamoyed.com.au www.smilingsamoyed.com.au

Lunch: Wednesday ~ Sunday Dinner: Friday & Saturday 7869 Main South Rd, Second Valley, 5204 Ph: 8598 4184 www.leonardsmill.com

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Living it up (sustainably) at the Hotel California Story by Nicole Leedham. Photography by Heidi Lewis.

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Previous page: Dreaming of a wine and cheese arvo at Hotel California Road. This page: The exterior of the cellar door / accommodation has clean graphic elements that are designed to break up the corrugation pattern of the container.

Driving south along McLaren Vale’s California Road, a patchwork of vineyards, dotted with stone cottages and old gums, extends as far as the eye can see.

Turn right into Inkwell Wines, just a few kilometres out of the township, and the scenery changes. The vines are still there, but dominating the view is a magnificent architectural delight, made from twenty-one shipping containers and housing a cellar door, office and micro-hotel.

It’s a rare sunny day during the winter when I arrive at Inkwell Wines, and the vines are demanding attention. The label’s organic certification means it’s vital to prune when the sun shines to avoid ‘dead arm,’ a dieback disease caused by the combination of two fungi that love moist conditions.

Inkwell is committed to sustainable farming principles. The vines are grown biologically using compost, with no chemical additives or pesticides. Nothing is added in production – no diammonium phosphate, tartaric acid, tannin or extra yeast. This means timing is crucial for pruning, hand picking and processing. The vines certainly won’t wait for my interview to be over!

After we inspect the vineyard, Dr Irina Santiago-Brown, who owns and manages Inkwell alongside her husband Dudley Brown, describes the vision for the cellar door and accommodation. ‘The cellar door was necessary to have a point of direct contact with the customers, because it’s difficult to sell online, and for people to find you randomly and book an appointment,’ she explains. ‘We wanted to diversify and integrate vertically. If you are just grape growers, it’s a tough business. And if you are producing wine, you get money from your grapes about three years later. Accommodation spreads the risk of the business and it also gives us an opportunity to showcase our wines.’

With Irina holding a PhD in sustainability in viticulture, and her role in developing McLaren Vale’s Sustainable Australia Winegrowing Program, it didn’t make sense for her to build something that didn’t follow the same philosophy. It was a given that any development on the winery site needed to be as environmentally friendly as possible.

‘I had this idea to use beautiful shipping containers – the ultimate sustainable material,’ says Irina. ‘They are already built, and they might not be any good to transport any more, because they might be a little rusty or have a little bit of usage already so are going to be thrown away. It’s a massive way to avoid waste.’ >

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Previous page top and bottom right: The cellar door has large windows and a viewing deck looking out over the vineyard and the ocean beyond. Bottom left: Irina Santiago-Brown and Dudley Brown are enjoying the calm after the hard miles getting to the completion of their cellar door. This page: The cellar door is full of character, style, good wine and magnificent views.

When Dudley had knee replacement surgery and was quite immobile, he discovered that two Lego pieces with five dots on top could be used as a scaled-down model of a twenty-foot shipping container. ‘So, he was playing with Lego, with inspiration from millions of things we have seen and liked and discussed, and he developed a little model,’ Irina says. ‘And then we tried to find engineers to help.’ This was no easy task, with many turning down the project, until a Melbourne-based structural engineering firm caught Dudley and Irina’s enthusiasm.

The couple engaged local architect Steve Layton to do the drawings for the structural engineers to work from. A team of engineers, including McLaren Vale company Oliver Engineers, worked on the final building, which was prefabricated before being moved onto the site late last year. All up, the process took about six months, from buying the containers in June 2017 to attaching the second layer and starting to work on the interior.

Irina and Dudley’s commitment to sustainability continues inside the cellar door and the three luxury rooms that comprise Hotel California Road. ‘We stuck with the original plan of using as much recycled and upcycled material as we could without compromising the luxury feel,’ Irina says. The floor of the cellar door is recycled timber, the chairs are old German school chairs, the solid iron table bases are machinery parts from India and the table tops are Japanese kimonofold tables. In keeping with the green theme, all new furniture is made from sustainable birch plywood, beautifully treated to give it a luxe look.

While the hotel and cellar door are not completely off the electricity grid, solar panels and battery storage mean they are about ninety to ninety five per cent powered by renewable energy. ‘We can’t risk telling guests, “hey today we didn’t have enough sun so there’s no electricity”,’ smiles Irina. ‘We capture rainwater so every single tap is rainwater, double-filtered and UV-treated. There are no plastic bottles for water.’ Meanwhile, all waste water is recycled for irrigation. > 87

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Previous page and above: The Hotel California Road Hotel is a boutique-five-star accommodation. The gorgeous sheltered outdoor entertaining area enables guests to mingle over a glass of wine while enjoying the tranquil view.

‘We stuck with the original plan of using as much recycled and upcycled material as we could without compromising the luxury feel.’

The cellar door, with its magnificent viewing platform, is on the first floor of the building, and offers timed tastings for visitors, as well as an immersion experience by appointment.

For those who want to wake up to panoramic views of the vineyards, the hotel rooms downstairs are simply sublime. Each is fitted out with a double rainfall shower, deep stand-alone soaking tub and a floating king-sized bed. One room can be configured to include an accessible bathroom and wheelchair-friendly entry. ‘We thought about all the things we love and hate about hotels and we tried to get the best and get rid of the worst,’ Irina says. Like the cellar door upstairs, the hotel furnishings are a mix of old and new, without compromising quality. ‘I make the joke that we reuse everything we can … but the sheets and the towels are new,’ Irina laughs.

Although neither Dudley or Irina have any hospitality experience, they have travelled extensively for work. Irina has also worked in Protocol – a government department involved in upholding diplomatic customs and hosting formal international visitors – in her home country of Brazil. ‘We had someone who came from a five-star hotel to teach me how to make the perfect bed and clean efficiently,’ Irina says. ‘I can clean, and Dudley can clean, but we were highly inefficient. This is a special event for our guests, there is no excuse not to be perfect.’

The lessons obviously worked because, since its opening in May 2018, Inkwell and the Hotel California Road have enjoyed a steady stream of visitors and five-star reviews, proving that sustainability and luxury can indeed successfully go hand-in-hand.

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Taken an amazing photo on the Fleurieu lately? Send us an email or upload it to our Facebook page and you could see your handiwork in print. Each issue we’ll choose an image to publish right here in the pages of FLM: facebook.com/FleurieuLivingMagazine.

This 8 minute long exposure was taken by Angus Northeast at Ingalalla Falls.

FOOD & WINE

Fresh whites Here we have four exemplary white wines – young, refreshing, light and aromatic.

Explore these diverse styles until you find one that strikes your fancy. If you find one that you really like – buy it in quantity – drink it with friends and celebrate the arrival of spring. Santé.

Paxton Wines 2018 Pinot Gris Spring marks the beginning of new life, when we turn our backs on winter and get ready for the sun to shine. Biodynamics is similar – producers have turned their backs on chemicals and fertilisers, bringing new life to vineyards. Paxton’s Pinot Gris is a great example of life and spring in a bottle of wine; a bright sun-lit colour with light fragrances of frangipani, nashi pear and a delicious citrus finish.

Perfect on a lovely spring day.

Spring Seed Wine Co 2016 Forget-Me-Not Sauvignon Blanc Semillon A blend of two of the most delicate yet brilliantly aromatic varieties, this wine produces a fine effect in the glass. A nose of cut grass and fig leads to a balanced, middleweight palate and finishes with a crisp, fresh, lime and lemon persistence. This creation makes an ideal aperitif when chilled or may be enjoyed with a variety of Asian foods, cheeses, white meat, poultry or even dessert.

Sew & Sew Wines 2017 Sashiko Adelaide Hills Chardonnay This single-vineyard chardonnay from the Kuitpo sub-region of the Adelaide Hills is light and fresh with a subtle hint of oak. Its touch of French oak gives a delightful flintiness on the nose, leading to a palate which is dominated by white peach and green apple with hints of melon and citrus. Pair it with fresh scallops, whiting meuniere or even chicken terrine. A versatile and refreshing wine.

Karawatta Wines 2017 Anna’s Sauvignon Blanc Handcrafted from the vineyard at Meadows in the Adelaide Hills, Anna’s Sauvignon Blanc contains passionfruit, citrus, cut grass, and snow pea tasting notes. The Sauvignon Blanc grapes are harvested by hand, sorted and then whole-bunch pressed. Wild-fermentation – with partial malolactic fermentation – and an additional four months in old French oak barrels builds the wine’s texture, complexity and softness. Made with a big nod to French tradition and best paired with seafood favourites.

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FOOD & WINE

Settle in to the tastes of spring

Story and photograph by Mel Amos of The Fleurieu Kitchen.

With its promise of warmer weather, longer days and new life, spring is one of my favourite seasons here on the Fleurieu.

The sun shines bright, skies are blue more often than not and bud burst on the vines signals a new vintage on the way.

At this time of year we start to feel the heaviness of winter and begin to move away from the ‘stick to your ribs’ comfort foods. And as we all return to some lighter food options, it’s not difficult to do so with the abundance of beautiful spring produce on offer in our region.

Of course, with lighter food comes lighter wines. A style of wine which is again gaining momentum is rosé – not the super sweet, onedimensional varieties of days gone by, but a drier, crisp, yet full-ofcharacter style with a much broader palate. Rosé is not just pink wine anymore – it also ranges from amber and bronze to salmon and ruby.

It’s a wine made for sunny days and long lunches of shared plates and, let’s face it, it pretty much goes with anything.

Fettuccine with spring vegetables, baked lemon ricotta and jamon Ingredients Baked Ricotta 2 litres good quality full cream milk (yields approx 350-400g ricotta) pinch of salt 1/4 cup lemon juice or white vinegar diluted with 50ml water 70g cream 1 egg finely grated zest of 1 lemon 1 clove garlic, finely sliced 1/2 tsp salt 1/4 tsp cracked black pepper Fettuccine 500g fettuccine 2 bunches asparagus, trimmed and chopped into 3 cm long pieces 2 cups fresh podded baby peas (or frozen if fresh unavailable) 2 garlic cloves, finely minced 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 30g butter zest and juice of 2 lemons 12 slices of jamon torn into smaller pieces (substitute with prosciutto if you prefer) 92

Winemaker Corrina Wright of Oliver’s Taranga Vineyards in McLaren Vale has created a beautiful rosé that personifies spring perfectly. A small-batch production made with grapes of the Mencía (a Spanish variety pronounced Men-thee-a), the Chica Mencía Rosé smacks your senses with aromas of watermelon, raspberries and a hint of lime. With a palate of light, crisp citrus and tart berries, it is the ideal partner for a fettuccine filled with spring vegetables, baked lemon ricotta and jamon.

I usually make my own ricotta for this recipe and I would suggest you to do the same. It’s easy and offers a very different product to the ricotta you will find in the supermarket. If you prefer to buy yours though, be sure to drain it in a fine mesh sieve overnight to get rid of some of the moisture; the ricotta needs to be considerably drier in order to get the desired result when baking it.

The olive oil forms the sauce for this pasta, so make sure it’s good quality. Feel free to add more if necessary, to ensure it coats the fettuccine well.

Garnish 2 tbs each fresh basil, mint & dill, roughly chopped shaved parmesan Method First make the ricotta. Place the milk and salt in a large saucepan and heat to approximately 92/93˚C, stirring regularly to avoid the milk burning on the bottom of the pan. If you don’t have a thermometer, heat to the point where it becomes frothy on top and looks as though it is just about to boil (do not let it boil though). Turn off the heat, stir the milk to create a whirlpool and add the lemon juice/vinegar and water mixture.

Give the milk a gentle stir and allow to sit for 10 minutes whilst the curds form and clump together. Pour into a colander (set over a larger bowl) lined with rinsed muslin (or use a clean, rinsed Chux). Keep the whey (the liquid in your bowl) for another purpose (Google it, there are loads of things you can do with it – I like to make bread).

Preheat oven to 180C. Once the ricotta has drained and is relatively firm, transfer it to a mixing bowl and add the egg, cream, lemon zest, parmesan, garlic, salt and pepper and mix until well combined.

Press the mixture into a well-oiled, small non-stick baking dish (approximately 20x20cm), then drizzle with olive oil and bake for 2025 minutes or until golden. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool until required.

Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil and cook the fettuccine as per packet instructions. While the pasta is cooking, bring a medium saucepan of salted water to the boil and blanch the asparagus and peas for two minutes. Drain into a colander and

set aside. In the same saucepan add the olive oil, butter, garlic and lemon zest and heat gently – do not brown the garlic. Once the garlic starts to sizzle, add the peas and asparagus, heating for one or two minutes.

baked ricotta. Gently mix through, trying not to break up the ricotta too much. Divide into bowls, top with shaved parmesan, cracked black pepper and a generous drizzle of olive oil. Serve with Oliver’s Taranga Chica Mencía Rosé and enjoy!

Place the cooked pasta in a large bowl, add the vegetable and oil mixture, torn jamon, lemon juice, herbs and roughly crumble over the 93

If it fields good – do it For this issue we asked Tatachilla Lutheran College senior students to write an editorial for consideration in FLM. This event feature was written by year twelve student Aysha England.

‘It’s pretty crazy,’ says Benjamin Hewett in an attempt to describe the contribution and support that he and his team have received from the dynamic Fleurieu Peninsula community for the Field Good Festival.

The event has been a long-held dream of Benjamin’s, and with the combined energies and talents of his partners in the project – Sam Lavers and Gerry Bain – it’s sure to be a great success.

Benjamin Hewett is founder of Yeo Haus, an uptrend surf brand located in Port Elliot. Sam Lavers is the lead singer of local band Zen Panda. Both are part of a new generation of creativity in the Fleurieu Peninsula. Add to the mix their mutual friend Gerry Bain from local record label Swirl Records and you have a one-of-its-kind festival on the Fleurieu Peninsula.

The fruit of their labour, Field Good, is a two-day, one-night music, arts and camping event taking place on October 27 and 28.

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The focus of the festival is on showcasing local brands and talent, with the boys agreeing they would rather bring people in who are their friends, rather than ‘big names’ just to draw a crowd. ‘It’s definitely a platform that lots of people have been chipping in (for), says Sam. ‘There’s lots of people down south here who are doing some pretty creative roles.’ says Sam. Alongside established local artists of various genres such as STORK, Druid Fluids and Lucy Zola, the boys also hope to ‘dig up’ talent and deliver a real taste of what the Fleurieu Peninsula has to offer.

The organisers are particularly enthusiastic about the opportunity to host this event close to home, with the festival being held at Alma’s Hems Amphitheatre – a private property owned by their friend Kylie Kain – just east of Inman Valley. They’ve also lined up a number of sponsors including Coopers Brewery and Alpha Box & Dice. And it’s likely to be just the beginning for the boys, who hope the Field Good Festival will become an annual feature. Look out for tickets on their Facebook and Instagram pages. @fieldgoodfest

Sea Front Cafe | Unique Atmosphere | Warm Cozy Fireplace | Wood Oven Pizza | Authentic Indian Curries | Stone Grill | Live Music Venue | Exclusive Bluff Craft Beer | Dine-In or Takeaway

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eat

at whalers

‘Love where we live’

The Barn McLaren Vale is a local institution, operating since 1970; everyone has a story about The Barn. Focusing on contemporary Australian cuisine, our chefs strive to support local producers, sourcing only the best local ingredients to create homestyle dishes with an innovative edge.

In today’s ever changing foodie landscape, catering to all is our number one aim. Newly renovated with an open kitchen, new cellar and new bar area, there’s so much to enjoy and discover.

We’re open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner.

Come for a drink and stay for the whole day.

08 8323 8618 · www.thebarnbistro.com.au

Opening Hours:

Breakfast: Wed - Sun @ 9am Lunch: Wed - Sun @ 12 noon Dinner: Fri & Sat @ 6pm “Anything is possible.

We love the challenge of creating your individual event”, Tenney Parker, Events Manager image: Kate Elmes Photography

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Top: The relentless pummelling of the Great Southern Ocean has created dramatic stalactites in the cave-like underside of Admirals Arch. Bottom left: The old storage sheds at Weirs Cove housed provisions for the lighthouse keepers. It has now been shored-up and restored for tourists to enjoy. Bottom right: Our tour guide, photographer and confirmed KI local, Nikki Redman at Remarkable Rocks.

Through the eyes of a local Story by Petra de Mooy. Photography by Jason Porter.

Pretty much every winter we head over to Kangaroo Island (KI) to appreciate the amazing wildlife and scenery when the bush is regenerating from a hot summer and the paddocks and hills are a verdant green. Previously, it’s just been the three of us. But this time we’ve brought one of our tween Lucy’s friends along for the annual pilgrimage.

We have three days and in order to maximise our time we decide to embark on one of the tours available through Kangaroo Island Odysseys. These all-inclusive packages are great value and we won’t hear a peep from the back seat about how long it is taking, not wanting to ‘go there’ or complaints about food options. As long as it is not being decided upon by Mum or Dad it is AG (All Good). The girls are given a leaflet with the top five KI animals, plus five bonus wildlife 96

species. They are determined to remain vigilant in sighting and ticking off all of the animals they see on the sheet. Top goal for both is to see a short-beaked echidna. ‘So cute.’

Our tour guide is Nikki Redman – a naturalist and an enthusiastic Kangaroo Island promoter. ‘Winter and spring are great times to come to KI,’ says Nikki. ‘You see a lot more wildlife. The animals are more visible in the landscape when it’s green and they are just a lot more active.‘ We meet at Kingscote, the capital of KI. On this Friday morning at half past nine, there is barely a car or person in sight, apart from a few shopkeepers and a group of French tourists waiting for another tour.

Nikki bounces across the road to greet us.

‘We’re over here,’ she waves.

Once aboard our touring vehicle, Nikki is keen to get on the road in front of some of the other tours. ‘That way we can have the place to ourselves,’ she explains. Nikki knows exactly what’s going on and makes us all feel an immediate affinity for this place that she holds so close to her heart.

Top left: The well-travelled KI Odysseys touring vehicle. Middle: Our lunch was enjoyed under a large canopy in Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary. Bottom left: A rarely-seen echidna train. Photo courtesy of Nikki Redman Photos. Right: The lighthouse at Cape du Couedic.

‘I never tire of coming here. It is grand and unperturbed by wind, rain, or the hammering of the Southern Ocean.’

Nikki is a confirmed Kangaroo Island local. When she was sixyears-old her family moved to KI so her dad could pursue his career as a lobster fisherman on the fertile and abundant shores of the coast. ‘It was great growing up here,’ remembers Nikki. ‘You live in a playground – how can you not love nature when you live in an environment like this?’

Nikki’s family spent a lot of the time exploring the bush and camping out, cultivating her passion for the outdoors and her love of animals.

She began her environmental work as a teen and then, as a young adult, she initiated the feral cat management program. ‘I was working for National Parks with the penguins and they were getting decimated by the cats. Birds were also falling prey,’ she says. ‘On my drive home one night I saw a few cats and thought someone needs to do something about this, so I got in touch with the relevant bodies and started a tracking program and a gut analysis program.’ That year (1999) Nikki received the Young Achiever of the Year for KI and was a finalist for the Young Achiever of Australia the following year.

Nearly twenty years on, Nikki’s passion for the island and its wildlife is just as strong. ‘The island is like a magnet,’ says Nikki. ‘I left at one point for just over a year and had to go and see a shrink because I was that depressed. After talking for a while the doctor said “what are you doing here? You need to go home”.’

That was in 2003 and Nikki promptly returned to KI with her two young girls and hasn’t looked back. Soon afterwards she began her career as a tour guide. ‘It seemed like something I should have been doing my whole life,’ says Nikki. She also began to develop her hobby as a photographer, capturing all she loves through her lens. ‘I even take holidays on the island; I go bushwalking or birdwatching or camping,’ she laughs.

Through diligent observation and patience, Nikki has amassed an amazing array of wildlife images and started the Facebook page ‘Kangaroo Island – Nature’s Paradise’ to showcase them.

She also manages the KI Odysseys Instagram page and her own photography page. Some of the images have gone viral and she has an impressive following. > 97

Top: Just hanging around at Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary. Bottom left: Roo spotting ... or is it the other way around? Right: A superb Fairy Wren. Photos this page courtesy of Nikki Redman Photos.

Now back to the tour. We head to Flinders Chase National Park, the largest uncleared area of bushland in South Australia. ‘It is bigger than Singapore,’ says Nikki. ‘But the only people who live there are two rangers and their families.’

As we approach Admirals Arch on the western tip, the roar of the great Southern Ocean is audible. The azure blue, granite, and crashing waves are stunning. We hold onto our hats and head down to see the colony of Long-nosed Fur Seals. These lucky seals have a thick fur. ‘Fifteen thousand hair follicles per square inch,’ Nikki tells us admiringly. These facts are fascinating, but my big question is do they realise their home is an awe-inspiring outcropping of 500-million-yearold cooked limestone? They seem nonplussed. Our girls are loving this year’s seal pups. Big tick.

Next stop is Weirs Cove. The view is stunning and the dilapidated original jetty and storage sheds are a reminder of the isolation and hardship that must have been endured by the three families who lived here at the turn of the last century. Lucy swears she can see a whale so that gets another tick. (Wink emoji here).

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In the distance we can see Remarkable Rocks, which look like pebbles from where we are. Back in our vehicle we head along Boxer Drive to the rocks. The walk down is gorgeous; along a boardwalk that winds to and fro through the bush and leads to a gentle slope of granite. Finally we’re at the boulders that are one of the most photographed landmarks on the island. I never tire of coming here.

It is grand and unperturbed by wind, rain, or the hammering of the Southern Ocean. We also have spectacular sweeping views along the southern coast.

On our way to lunch we get exclusive access to a bit of private land that the tour company owns. Nikki stops suddenly. ‘Echidna!’ All I can see is a million little outcroppings of grass on a paddock with the odd mob of kangaroos. Years of experience make Nikki a keen wildlife spotter and soon our eyes adjust to notice the subtle change in colour from the grass to the little creature, which is now aware of us and has stuck its nose into the ground to ‘hide.’ The girls are beyond thrilled and immediately name the echidna ‘Iggy’ … naturally.

Top left: KI Roads. Bottom left: Mmmmmm sponge. Photo courtesy of Nikki Redman Photos. Above right: What’s left of the original jetty at Weirs Cove.

We are allowed out to get a little closer. The girls are very taken by this monotreme. ‘Can’t we take him home?’

Lunch is a delicious array of fresh bread, gourmet salads, freshly barbecued chicken (Nikki moonlights as cook for the tour), all complemented by some fine KI wines. We see a few Superb Fairy Wrens hopping about and hear more about Nikki’s history as we enjoy our private lunch under the gum trees.

‘... how can you not love nature when you live in an environment like this?’

Our final stop is the Hanson Bay Sanctuary, where we see kangaroos and koalas – we even see a koala scrambling across the ground from one tree to another.

The tour winds up as we drop off the international guests and Nikki takes us back to our car. The girls are tired but happy and we have all taken hundreds of photos, which will serve as a reminder of this magical island, and the warm and welcoming people who call it home.

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These aerial shots of Pennington Bay were photographed the day before our KI Odysseys tour. They capture the sheer beauty of this rugged landscape. fly-the-fleurieu.com

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Learn to Surf

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Let’s talk hearing.

Jimmy Smith’s Dairy jimmy smith’s dairy style guide

Healthy aging is very dependent on good hearing.

We risk our social skills if we cannot communicate.

A hearing test is simple and informative.

©JIMMY SMITH’S DAIRY STYLE GUIDE / JUNE 2013

For a unique and relaxing getaway at Port Elliot: jimmysmithsdairy.com.au Ph: 0409 690 342 Mentone Road East, Port Elliot, SA (via Brickyard Road.)

For a logo to be effective, it’s essential that it doesn’t change. It needs to be represented the same way over and over again. If a logo is suddenly represented in a different way (for example, a red logo suddenly becomes blue) the audience becomes confused and the strength of the brand diminishes.

Repetition and consistency is the key.

This style guide is a reference for your logo, and will outline how to use elements in different circumstances.

Mary Trowbridge Audiologist 187 Main Rd Mclaren Vale M: 0411 779 916 mary@fleurieuhearing.com.au www.fleurieuhearing.com.au

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Above: Yusef Hayat, Rundle Mall (detail), 2016, archival ink on bamboo. Image courtesy of artist.

Shimmer Photographic It’s a long way from the Middle East, but the City of Onkaparinga is set to display an underground Afghani world, where young boys are forced to dress as women and perform at private parties. Walkley award-winning photojournalist Barat Ali Batoor will headline this year’s Shimmer Photographic Biennale, bringing his world-famous exhibition, The Dancing Boys of Afghanistan, to South Australia for the first time.

The poignant works will be launched at the official Shimmer opening night at the Arts Centre, Port Noarlunga. More than 35 artists from across Australia will exhibit their work across thirteen locations as part of the festival, which kicks off on 14 September. Over a month, audiences can take in a range of exhibitions, workshops, events and artist talks, all of which support the creative talents of amateur, emerging and established artists.

The opening night will also see the unveiling of Lucentide, a community-driven project by Illuminart – in conjunction with Onkaparinga Council – which showcases the nature and

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biodiversity of the Onkaparinga River through luminous digital artwork. Described by the artists as a fusion of photography, moving image and community engagement, the project aims to stimulate awareness of the surrounding environment and inspire the community to connect with and appreciate nature. The works will be projected on the Arts Centre from 6.30pm – 9pm.

In another first for South Australia, the photographic festival also brings Robert McFarlane’s retrospective exhibition, Still Point, to the beautiful Fleurieu Arthouse. Festival coordinator, Jaynie Langford, says the month-long feast of the arts showcases the culture of the

Biennale 2018 camera and all things photographic. ‘Shimmer gives established, emerging and the amateur hobbyist photographers opportunities to exhibit their work and expand their knowledge, as well as providing a platform to discuss and learn more about photography,’ she said. ‘This year’s program is both engaging and thought provoking, reflecting a broad range of genres, experience and content.’

The festival is in its eighth year and has grown each time; it’s now considered an essential part of South Australia’s arts calendar. A number of interactive workshops will also take place, catering for people of all ages, interests and abilities. They include Eat with Your

Eyes: Instagram Dinner, facilitated by acclaimed food photographer Heidi Lewis from Heidi WHO Photos at Red Poles in McLaren Vale; Seascapes Masterclass with Pete Dobre where participants will tour impressive sites of Onkaparinga and learn how to successfully capture the character and ambiance of each destination; and InstaHow where Kate Atkins, with Milton Wordley and Jeff Moorfoot, will discuss how to take a structured approach to using Instagram to extend your brand; and Organising an Exhibition with Gavin Blake from Centre for Creative Photography. >

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Top: Dave Laslett, White Mungata. Above: Robert McFarlane, Loupe Entry, Wilsons Promontory, 1969. Right: Holly Wilson, The Space between us is … 2016, handmade negative, C-Type Print. All images courtesy of artists.

Shimmer’s extensive program, combined with the food and wine offerings in the City of Onkaparinga, makes it the ideal opportunity for photographic discovery. ‘We are very excited to be partnering with a number of fantastic wineries and arts spaces and encourage everyone to explore the many hidden gems in the City of Onkaparinga,’ Jaynie says. You never know, it may just inspire you to get behind the lens yourself.

The 2018 Shimmer Photographic Biennale runs from 14 September until 14 October.

Find out more and download the full program at www.onkaparingacity.com/shimmer

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Fleurieu weddings Carli and David Laws married on 27th April 2018.

Photography by Capture the Present.

When Carli and David Laws met through mutual friends at an Adelaide pub four years ago, they quickly realised their connection was special. ‘We both, however, had overseas trips booked,’Carli says. ‘Mine for five weeks and a week after I returned, David went away for three months.’ But as the saying goes, distance only made the heart grow fonder.

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Dave proposed during a surprise weekend he organised on Kangaroo Island. ‘It was extremely romantic and totally unexpected,’ Carli explains. ‘Our wedding day was just as perfect.’ Although the couple grew up on Yorke Peninsula, they decided to hold their special day in April on the Fleurieu Peninsula; Encounter Bay and Port Elliot were the perfect fit. ’We are both passionate about the beach, so we knew we wanted to be married as close to the water as possible,’ Carli says. ‘And the fact that it’s not far from Adelaide and there are plenty of accommodation options, it made sense to get married there.’

Their ceremony was held at the Soldiers Memorial Gardens at Port Elliot; Sophie Orchard played Mango Tree by Angus and Julia Stone

Above: the reception was held at Eat @ Whalers where there was no shortage of food and wine. Cake by Petal & Cake Co.

as Carli walked down the aisle. ‘The weather was perfect despite a touch of wind which made my veil fly around,’ Carli says. ‘Luckily my maid of honour was there to hold it down for the entire ceremony.’

Family and friends then settled in at Eat @ Whalers ‘where there was no shortage of food and alcohol on the cocktail-style menu. The weather allowed for the bi-fold doors to be opened, which made it feel like a big summer party,’ Carli says. ‘David is a builder and made all of our tables, which added a special element.’ Guests danced the night away to the tunes of Brad Bryksy. ‘It was such a wonderful and fun atmosphere, where our family and friends were all able to hang out and just have fun, ’Carli says. ‘It was special indeed.’

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SOCIAL PAGES

Being Social: FLM 6th anniversary at Inkwell Wines Our sixth anniversary – and launch of this year’s winter edition – was held at the newly-opened Inkwell Wines on June 6. It was a fantastic night spent tasting their wines by the warm fireplace and enjoying stunning views from the observation deck.

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Being Social: Common Ground Exhibition The Fleurieu Arthouse celebrated its first year of operation with the opening of Common Ground, held on July 29. This SALA exhibition was the culmination of 15 resident artists, who’ve worked in neighbouring studios and found a mutuality in their practices.

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01: Dudley Brown and Irina Santiago-Brown 02: Jenette Hewett, Deidre Nieuwenhuis and Judy Edwards 03: Sam and Loui Nicholson 04: Nina Thomsen, Hayley Pember-Calvert and Peter Smit 05: Angela Lisman and Hope Lovelock Deane 06: Graeme Galloway and John Nowland 07: Wayne Flew and Nicky Connolly 08: Anna Small and Eileen Lubiana 09: Bonnie Sandercock and Sarah Lyons. 10: Cate and Nick Foskett 11: Sabine Verhack and Brooke Walker 12: Kellie Ferguson and Annette Rohde.

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SOCIAL PAGES

Being Social: Fleurieu Biennale opening Stump Hill Gallery welcomed guests for the opening of the Fleurieu Biennale on June 16. The event marked the 20th anniversary of the biennale, which had art displayed at Stump Hill Gallery, the Fleurieu Arthouse and Signal Point Gallery.

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01: Carolyn Colling, Alison Russell, Tony Parkinson 02: Joshe Beare, Ady Pearce, Diana Harvey 03: John Lacey, Sally Deans, Carol Bann 04: Judges: Christopher Orchard, Emma Fey, Godwin Bradbeer 05: Nick Mount, Allison Blight 06: Brian O’Malley, David Dridan (Patron), Sylvio Apponyi 07: Jen Wright, David Sherrah and Marchelle Matthew 08: Richard and Elizabeth Grayling 09: Villeré People’s Choice Winner Tom O’Callaghan with sponsors Carol and Jim Banman 10: Meme Thorne and Anna Small 11: Catherine Fitz-Gerald, Meredith Bowman 12: Two unknown attendees enjoying the show.

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SOCIAL PAGES

Being Social: Tatachilla year twelve formal at Serafino June 22 marked a milestone for Tatachilla’s Year 12 students as they celebrated their formal at Serafino. The night was spectacular and thoroughly enjoyed by both staff and students.

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Being Social: Alexandrina ‘Business Life’ breakfast Alexandrina Council hosted a breakfast for business owners at the Mount Compass War Memorial Hall on July 11. It was a great opportunity for locals to make new connections and draw inspiration from an impressive lineup of speakers.

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01: Aysha England and Calvin Warren 02: Georgia Breakey, Teagan Muxlow, Lilliana Widdop, Lily Ingoldby-Craig and Dylan Fountain 03: Chelsea and Taylah Levy 04: Holly Zadow and Tess Cross 05: Matthew Fish, Luke Taylor and Declan Cassidy 06: Teisha Cannell and Amy Callec 07: Mayor Keith Parkes, Alexandrina Council with Karen Lume and Kaarel Lume 08: Glenn Rappensberg, Chief Executive Officer Alexandrina Council with Rebekah McCaul and Rojina McDonald 09: Steve Shotton (RDA) and Rebekah McCaul 10: Lyn and John Clarke 11: Peter and Maria Walters 12: Kym McHugh, Sue Scheiffers and Grant Gartrell.

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Labour of love: An artist’s home in Hayborough Victor Harbor: Affectionately known as Victor The magic of biodynamics A home with a heart in Willunga The China Files: Vinexpo Through the eyes of a local: Kangaroo Island Woven acts and spoken maps: The artwork of Laura Wills Living it up at the Hotel California (Road) Art · Design · Food · Wine · Fashion · Photography · People · Destinations