Gucci AW18 Appraisal

SS/18

AW/18

Appraisal Fleur Robinson

Word Count: 1982 Figure 1

Introduction Founded in Florence in 1921, Gucci is one of the world’s leading luxury fashion brands, with a renowned reputation for creativity, innovation and Italian craftsmanship. Today, current creative director Alessandro Michele has re-established the brands eccentric, decadent persona through bold prints and imagery; taking inspiration from by-gone eras - increasing Gucci’s relevance amongst the contemporary fashion crowd (Open for Vintage. 2019).

This appraisal will examine the trends from previous decades that have inspired the SS/18 and AW/18 Gucci collections. The recent rise in vintage fashion has arguably led to houses looking at archival collections for inspiration; charity Oxfam recently launched its vintage section online and saw sales through its website shoot up by 400% (Kasprzak, E. 2012). It is these past trends of many eras that provide great inspiration and are utilised by designer Alessandro as a foundation for current looks, skilfully reworked to appeal to modern day society.

Figure 2

Figure 3

AW/1 8

Look 16

Lace Dress

The AW/18 collection embodies many of Alessandro Michele’s signature designs; the vintage inspired aesthetic is enhanced through rich embroidery, head scarves and oversized sunglasses; taking influence from a plethora of past eras.

The Overcoat

Figure 4

Alessandro has taken inspiration from a multitude of eras in the design of the NY Yankees coat. The overcoat mirrors the style of the 1950s full coat - adopting a swing style.

The longline design of these coats was popular following WWII, particularly with women whom were pregnant during the ‘baby boom’ era; due to the oversize nature of the coat.

Many coats of the 50s featured detailing such as contrast stitching and embroidery, similar to that displayed in look 16 (Vintage Dancer. 2018). The use of Mountmellick embroidery, a technique popular during the 1970s creating a 3D effect exemplifies how Alessandro has adapted the 1950s overcoat to include a plethora of influence from differing eras (V&A. 2019). This is further exemplified by the large collars incorporated in the design, resembling that of the 1920s Bertha collar. The fluted sleeve featured in Alessandro’s design, assimilates inspiration from the 1970s also, whereby the late 60s had made loose fitting, flowy clothing popular - as clothing widened, so did the sleeve. The houses collaboration with The New York Yankees is exhibited through the vintage 1906 logo embroidered featured; “the logo takes inspiration from the creative directors Yankees baseball hat” (Gucci. 2019).

The incorporation of this modern-day inspiration juxtaposes the vintage feel of other elements of the garment - yet emphasises the creativity in Michaels designs in the amalgamation of influences reworked to produce an on-trend garment appealing to modern day customers.

Figure 5. 1950s Fullcoat

Figure 6. 1906 NY Yankees logo Figure 8. Queen Elizabeth I portrait. 1595.

The flower lace dress is realized in rebrodé lace, an emblem of renaissance fashion (Gucci.

2019). Beginning in the 15th century lace was laboriously handmade. Available to only the elite; the intricate pattern was regarded as an indicator of social status, favoured by royals such as Queen Elizabeth I whom adorned lace ruffs throughout her reign (Kanagy-Loux, E. 2017). The incorporation of the ruffle at the foot of the dress connotes influence from the Victorian era whereby women’s dresses were decorated with tiers and ruffles, synonymous with a greater femininity (Newland, C. 2017).

Figure 7. Lace Dress AW/18

Tiger Head Brooch

It would be nonsensical to overlook the incorporation of the Babushka headscarf within the collection and the past influences which inspire this look. It was in the 19th Century when the head scarf first became a popular fashion accessory. The bold print of the Gucci AW/18 headscarf denotes pattern inspiration of the 1920s, whereby the introduction of screen printing manufactured the experimentation of pattern and design (Berg Encyclopaedia. 2015). The fashion scarf sees its emergence in Post-World War I Europe and America whereby the modern women’s fashion aesthetic emphasised austerity, for much of the 20th century the headscarf represented a subtle means of social distinction.

Following World War II, scarfs grew bolder; with many fashion houses beginning to incorporate the accessory in ready-to-wear collections. In 1961 Gucci employed illustrator Vittorio Accornero to designs scarfs for the fashion house, leading to the emergence of more graphic and geometric styles (Berg Encyclopaedia. 2015) similar to that seen in look 16. The horse print of the AW/18 scarf shows Alessandro Michael’s adaptation of this geometric style - highlighting the influence of the 1960s and inspiration taken from archival Gucci prints to produce current collections.

The Tiger head brooch takes its inspiration from the 1940 jewellery designs of Hattie Carnegie. “The roaring tiger head design is bought back from the designers archives and reworked within the Gucci narrative” (Gucci. 2019).

Whilst the design of the brooch takes inspiration from the 1940s, Alessandro Michael has taken inspiration from the 1920s whereby the brooch became popular; no longer utilised for its functionality but for its decorative features (Vintage Dancer. 2019). The coloured enamelled tiger head embellished with sparkling crystals is used by Michael as a feature of the outfit and reworked from a purely functional garment to a fashion accessory.

The Babushka Headscarf

Figure 9

Figure 12. 1940s Hattie Carnegie Tiger brooch; taken as inspiration for the Gucci design.

Figure 10

Figure 11. 1950s Audrey Hepburn

Figure 13. GUCCI AW/18 Rajah Brooch.

Figure 14. 1950s Marilyn Monroe Cateye.

Figure 15. GUCCI AW/18 Sunglasses

The cat eye sunglasses are symbolic of the 1950s, whereby the frame shape is regarded as a reflection of the post war economic boom; a symbol of prosperity (Webb, A. 2018). Alessandro has reworked the classic pointed cat eye shape with the flat edge design. The cherry coloured lense pays homage to the disco era of the late 70s where lighter tinted lenses were more in style than the anonymity of dark sunglasses (DiValentino, A. 2018).

Sunglasses

The 1960s saw the arrival of the handbag as a fashion statement, no longer used for just practicality but adding to an outfit. The ‘Tifosa bag’ connotes references to the athletic world; “the spherical body recalls the shape of a basketball” (Gucci.

2019) thus adding to the modern NY Yankees reference of the overcoat. The double ‘G’ hardware featured was introduced in 1964 exemplifying how Alessandro Michael oftentimes takes inspiration from vintage, archival Gucci designs, reworked with the modern sport inspired design (Open for vintage. 2019).

Figure 16

Flashtrek trainers

Tifosa Bag

The chunky style trainer shown by Gucci takes its stylistic que from the 80s ‘Dad trainer’; featuring an oversized shape and thick sole. The extreme chunkiness and mismatching colours of Gucci’s ‘Flashtrek’ trainers have taken inspiration from what is labelled as the ‘ugly fashions’ of the 80s. Alessandro juxtaposes the functionality of the 80s sports trainer through the embellishment of the multicoloured crystal strap, revamping the trainer once branded “the epitome of uncool” (McInnis, K. 2018).

Figure 17

Figure 18

Figure 19

Figure 20

S S/ 18

Figure 21

The Gucci SS/18 collection pays great homage to Elton John’s 70s style, taking inspiration from “Elton’s archive of starry ’70s glam rock stage clothes” (Mower, S. 2017).

Reinvigorating the vintage, the esoteric and the dated Alessandro Michael has bought back pieces long consigned to fashion’s graveyard (Pithers, E. 2017).

The Shell Suit Incontestably, Alessandro has derived maximum inspiration from the 1970s; the Shell suit epitomises the dress code of the 70s and early 80s taking inspiration from Elton John - seen in the matching suit in figure 22. The great jogging trend of the 70s lead to the rise of the matching pants and top; considered a hybrid between athletic and hobby wear, whilst the burgeoning hip-hop scene of the 80s gave way to tracksuits utilizing an array of brighter colours and graphics as well as lighter more breathable materials. Whilst it in was the 1970s that’s this style of sportswear was introduced to Europe, due to the greater desire to be in shape (Martin, 2009 p53). It was the 80s was when the active lifestyle became prominent within fashion, through the influence of the likes of Hip Hop artists such as Run DMC (Dallabona, A. 2017). The nylon material can be regarded as a nod to the 80s, where newly developed synthetic fabrics of the 80s such as sympatex made way to the “shell suit” consisting of thinner nylon layers, more suitable for active wear and similar to that used in Alessandro’s design.

Look 52

The decorative chevron motif dates back to the 1800s in Ancient Greece, where it was seen in many forms of art. Although, it is more likely that Alessandro has taken greater inspiration from the 1950s knit print of Missoni, which reached peak influence in the fashion world with the inverted V shape pattern in the 70s (Ritchie, R. 2011). “The era of 70s fashion was about freedom, a variety of colours, eclectic looks and a tendency to mix different styles” reflected by Alessandro through the juxtaposition of the ‘casual’ tracksuit and rhinestone embellishment, creating a sense of ‘sports couture’ wear. The use of these rhinestones also denotes the extravagant accessories of Elton John’s 70s stage outfits whilst also demonstrating the fine craftmanship of the house through the delicate decoration.

Figure 22. Elton John Shellsuit style, 1980s Figure 23. Princess Diana 1989.

The rise of the shell suit coincided with the power dressing movement and physical liberation of women, during the 1980s. Sportwear was soon regarded as a statement; women could exhibit their bodies and power both in the gym and during leisure time (Campo, N. 2009).

The tracksuit was endorsed by women of even the highest status such as Princess Diana as seen in figure 23.

Figure 25 Figure 26. The 1970s ‘jogging craze’.

Figure 24

Loafers A notable element of the look is the loafers, which appear to juxtapose the casual nature of the outfit. Taking inspiration from the horsebit loafer, Alessandro references the brands individual historical trend, reworked with the incorporation of embellished detail giving the typically masculine style shoe a feminine feel. “In 1966 Gucci saw the popularity of the Penny Loafer andadapted it with a metal strap across the front” (Trepanier, D. 2015). This style shoe became popular with business men in the 1970s, becoming a wall street uniform.

When adopted by women in the late 70s, the Gucci loafer maintained much of its masculine appearance with variants in heel heights.

The loafer of look 52 shows an updated version of the traditional loafer style, including the slight heel adding femininity to the traditionally masculine style (Shawcross, R. 2014).

Figure 27

The Crossbody bag features the iconic Gucci bamboo handles, first introduced by the brand in 1947, adorned by their most converted designs, the bamboo lock detailing shows an adaptation of this favoured design. Again, showing the ways in which Alessandro obtains inspiration from previous Gucci trends.

The bamboo is now regarded as a house signature style hailing from the 1940s (Open for vintage. 2019).

Sunglasses

Crossbody Figure 28

Figure 29. The classic Penny Loafer of the 1960s.

Figure 31. 1960s ‘Mod’ style square frame sunglasses.

During the 1960s the youth-quake movement lead to the increased wearing of sunglasses by men and women in the hope of looking younger; youth was in fashion and as too was the square shape frame.

Alessandro has appropriated the style of 1960s sunglasses through the square shape design whilst also incorporating inspiration from the 40s, whereby thick white acetate frames were in fashion (Molomo, K. 2018). The design also suggests a nod to the mod era of the 60s, the streamline silhouette frame imitates the minimalistic approach enhanced by the black and white colourway. The gold double G detailing however allows Alessandro to add a modern feel to the arguably dated shape.

Figure 30. 1960s ‘Mod’ style square frame sunglasses.

Conclusion On reflection, it is clear that Alessandro simultaneously embodies inspiration from multiple past eras in one look.

Whilst the two collections vastly differ, through the reworking and adaptation of past trends, Alessandro Is able to skillfully design garments which create contemporary trends - underpinned by Vintage inspiration. For example, the practicality of the 80s shell suit has been altered through the addition of the embellished detail, whilst the 1950s inspired overcoat of look 16 has been modernized through NY Yankees reference, yet still juxtaposed by both the 20th century embroidery and lace dress worn beneath.

Both the AW/18 and SS/18 collections display the great craftmanship of Alessandro Michele whilst demonstrating the ideology that fashion certainly is a cycle of past trends.

Figure 32

Figure 33. Creative Director Alessandro Michele

References Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. [Online]. 2015. s.v. Twentieth century fashion scarves. Accessed 15/4/19. Available at: https://www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com/products/berg-fashion-library/encyclopedia/ berg-encyclopedia-of-world-dress-and-fashion-global-perspectives/twentieth-century-fashion-scarves Campo, N. 2009. From Superwomen to Domestic Goddess. The Rise and Fall of Feminism. Peter Lang: Germany.

Dallabona, A. 2019. Week 4 – Fashion through the decades. DESN1375 Fashion In Context. 29/4/19. University of Leeds.

DiValentino, A. 2018. The most popular sunglasses trend the year you were born. [Online] Accessed 19/4/19. Available at: https://www.thisisinsider.com/sunglasses-over-the-years-2018-8 Gucci. 2019. Flower lace dress. [Online] Accessed 16/4/19. Available at: https://www.gucci.com/int/en/pr/women/ womens-ready-to-wear/womens-dresses/short-dresses/flower-lace-dress-p-543331ZLT199303?position=48&listName=ProductGrid&categoryPath=Women/Womens-Ready-to-Wear/Womens-Dresses/Short-Dresses Gucci. 2019. Paradoxical creatures. [Online] Accessed 15/4/19. Available at: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/st/stories/ runway/article/fall-winter-2018-details Gucci. 2019. Rajah brooch in metal. [Online] Accessed 16/4/19. Available at: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/pr/ jewelry-watches/fashion-jewelry/fashion-jewelry-for-women/rajah-brooch-in-metal-p-537756I86W78488?position=83&listName=ProductGrid&categoryPath=Jewelry-Watches/Fashion-Jewelry/Fashion-Jewelry-For-Women

Kanagy-loux, E. 2017. Lace in Fashion. The Fashion Studies Journal. [Online] Accessed 17/4/19. Available at: http:// www.fashionstudiesjournal.org/4-reviews-10/2017/7/30/lace-in-fashion Kasprzak, E. 2012. Vintage style: The rise of retro fashion. [Online] Accessed 29/4/19. Available at: https://www.bbc. co.uk/news/uk-england-17667524 Mcinnis, K. 2018. Dad trainers: Why they’re back in fashion. [Online] Accessed 18/4/19. Available at: https://www. bbc.com/news/newsbeat-45626665 Mower, S. 2017. Gucci. [Online] Accessed 19/4/19. Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018ready-to-wear/gucci Molomo, K. 2018. The fabulous history of sunglasses. [Online] Accessed 26/4/19. Available at: https://www.thetalko. com/the-fabulous-history-of-sunglasses-their-trends-in-25-pics/ Newland, C. 2017. The Peculiar History of the Ruffle. [Online] Accessed 17/4/19. Available at: https://www.racked. com/2017/2/13/14461300/ruffle-history Open for vintage. 2019. Vintage Gucci collection. [Online] Accessed 18/4/19. Available at: https://www.openforvintage.com/gucci Pithers, E. 2017. Why The Shell Suit Is The Most-Grammed Look On The Gucci Catwalk. [Online] Accessed 20/3/19.

Available at: https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/gucci-spring-summer-2018-catwalk-key-look Ritchie, R. 2011. Now & Then: The History of the Chevron Stripe. [Online] Accessed 19/4/19. Available at: http:// ecosalon.com/chevron-trend-missoni-heritage-39/

Shawcross, R. 2014. Shoes: An illustrated history. New York: Bloomsbury publishing plc.

Trepanier, D. 2015. A guide to Mens loafers. [Online] Accessed 26/4/19. Available at: https://www.articlesofstyle.com/ articles/post/a-guide-to-mens-loafer-styles Unknown. 2018. 1950s Coats and Jackets History. [Online] Accessed 18/4/19. Available at: https://vintagedancer. com/1950s/history-1950s-coats-jackets/ Vintage Dancer. 2019. 1920s Jewelry Styles History. [Online] Accessed 20/4/19. Available at: https://vintagedancer. com/1920s/1920s-jewelry-styles/.

Webb, A. 2018. Sunglasses styles through the decades. [Online] Accessed 19/4/189. Available at: https://www.crfashionbook.com/fashion/g21940953/national-sunglasses-day-trends-history/ Young, S. 2018. How the ugly dad trainer became fashionable, according to experts. [Online] Accessed 18/4/19. Available at: https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/dad-trainer-trend-2018-fashionable-how-runway-kendalljenner-bella-hadid-kim-kardashian-a8357231.html

Figures

1. Gucci 2018. Guccy SS18 Hallucinations. [Online] Accessed 24/4/19. Available at: http://springsummer.gucci.com 2. Luchford, G. 2018. Gucci Fall/Winter 2018. The fun and quirky side of collecting. [Online] Accessed 25/4/19.

Available at: https://www.metalmagazine.eu/en/post/article/gucci-fall-slash-winter-2018-the-fun-and-quirky-side-ofcollecting 3. Luchford, G. 2018. Gucci Fall/Winter 2018. The fun and quirky side of collecting. [Online] Accessed 25/4/19.

Available at: https://www.metalmagazine.eu/en/post/article/gucci-fall-slash-winter-2018-the-fun-and-quirky-side-ofcollecting 4. Mower, S. 2018. Fall 2018 Ready To Wear. [Online] Accessed 8/5/19. Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/gucci 5. Pinterest. 2019. Vintage Full coat. [Online] Accessed 8/5/19. Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/326792516683882977/ 6. Fine print art. 2019. History of the New York Yankees Logo. [Online] Accessed 8/5/19. Available at: https:// www.fineprintart.com/art/history-of-the-new-york-yankees-logo 7. Gucci. 2019. Flower lace dress. [Online] Accessed 8/5/19. Available at: https://www.gucci.com/ca/en/pr/women/ womens-ready-to-wear/womens-dresses/womens-shorts-dresses/flower-lace-dress-p-543331ZLT199303

8. Jones, J. 2013. Elizabeth I’s portrait brings us face to face with the ravages of age. Accessed 9/5/19. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/jonathanjonesblog/2013/feb/13/elizabeth-first-portrait-face-age-unhappiness

16. Gucci. 2019. Flashtrek sneaker with removable crystals. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19. Available at: https:// www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/pr/women/womens-shoes/womens-sneakers/flashtrek-sneaker-with-removable-crystals-p-537133DOR608266?rrec=true&position=2&listName=CrossSell&categoryPath=Women/Womens-Shoes/ Womens-Sneakers&pl_pageType=Search&pl_persStrategy=Strategy1&pl_navCategory=

9. Gucci. 2019. Paradoxical creatures. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19. Available at: https://www.gucci.com/hu/en_gb/st/ stories/article/fall-winter-2018-details

17. Harpers Bazaar. 2019. Black Tifosa bag. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19. Available at: https://shop.harpersbazaar.com/ designers/gucci/black-tifosa-small-bag-31795.html

10. Guccious. 2019. Silk Headscarf with horseprint. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19. Available at: https://www.guccious. com/silk-headscarf-with-horse-print-p-89.html

18. Eckardt, S. 2018. Go backstage at Gucci’s Fall 2018 Fashion Show. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19. Available at: https://www.wmagazine.com/gallery/gucci-fashion-show-decapitated-head-dragon

11. The Wall Street Journal. 2012. A lasting trend: Headscarf ’s. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19. Available at: https://www. wsj.com/articles/SB10001424127887324407504578187582609611280

19. Livingly. 2019. Milan Fall 2018 - Gucci. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19. Available at: http://www.livingly.com/runway/Milan+Fashion+Week+Fall+2018/Gucci/Backstage/43HQag9bIui

12. Pinterest. 2019. 1940s Hattie Carnegie Tiger Brooch. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19. Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/62487513556071820/?lp=true

20. Livingly. 2019. Milan Fall 2018 - Gucci. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19. Available at: http://www.livingly.com/runway/Milan+Fashion+Week+Fall+2018/Gucci/Backstage/7qvFNuZ0w3f

13. Gucci. 2019. Rajah Brooch. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19. Available at: https://www.gucci.com/ca/en/pr/jewelry-watches/fashion-jewelry/fashion-jewelry-for-women/rajah-brooch-in-metal-p-537756I86W78488

21. Emerson, S. 2019. The Showman. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19. Available at: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/st/stories/inspirations-and-codes/article/spring-summer-2018-elton-john

14. The Girl. 2017. Marilyn Monroe wearing cateye sunglasses. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19. Available at: https://thegirllovesvintage.com/2017/04/11/vintage-and-retro-sunglasses/oulx3u7/

22. Morley, D. 2009. Shellsuits, past and present. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19. Available at: https://www.theguardian. com/lifeandstyle/gallery/2009/aug/25/shellsuits-past-present

15. Barneys. 2019. GUCCI GG0430S Sunglasses. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19. Available at: https://www.barneys.com/ product/gucci-gg0430s-sunglasses-505800943.html

23. Lucci, A. 2018. The 28 Most Iconic Tracksuits Of All Time. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19. Available at: https://www. womenshealthmag.com/style/g23140386/the-28-most-iconic-tracksuits-of-all-time/?slide=8

24. Christian Madsen, A. 2017. Gucci Spring/Summer 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19.

Available at: https://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/spring-summer-2018-ready-to-wear/gucci/collection 25. Christian Madsen, A. 2017. Gucci Spring/Summer 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19.

Available at: https://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/spring-summer-2018-ready-to-wear/gucci/collection 26. Angeles, K. 2017. 1980s Mens fashion. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19. Available at: https://blog.dudepins.com/tag/ activewear/ 27. Farfetch. 2019. Gucci Leather pumps with crystal stripe. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19. Available at: https:// www.farfetch.com/uk/shopping/women/gucci-leather-pumps-with-crystal-stripe-item-12848062.aspx?&clickref=1011l6ecWB9Z&utm_source=skimlinks_phg&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=PHUK&utm_term=UKNetwork&pid=performancehorizon_int&c=skimlinks_phg&clickid=1011l6ecWB9Z&af_siteid=305950&af_sub_ siteid=1011l271&af_cost_model=CPA&af_channel=affiliate&is_retargeting=true 28. Christian Madsen, A. 2017. Gucci Spring/Summer 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19.

Available at: https://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/spring-summer-2018-ready-to-wear/gucci/collection 29. Downs, C. 2017. Slipping Into Something More Comfortable: One Hundred Years of the Modern Loafer. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19. Available at: https://www.grailed.com/drycleanonly/modern-loafer-history 30. Retro Musing. 2019. Crazy 60s Sunglasses. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19. Available at: https://www.ghostofthedoll. co.uk/retromusings/crazy-sixties-sunglasses-1960s/ 31. Reinten, A. 2017. Eye to Eye History of iconic eyewear. [Online] Accessed 9/5/19. Available at: https://styleclinic.co/eye-to-eye-the-history-of-iconic-eye-wear/

32. Rossini, A. 2018. The Gucci SS18 collection is an act of resistance to homologation. [Online]. Accessed 9/5/19.

Available at: https://www.nssmag.com/en/fashion/12372/gucci-ss18 33. Yeung, H. 2016. Gucci’s Alessandro Michele on Inspiration, His Gender-Fluid Approach and How He Got This Job. [Online] Accessed 5/9/19. Available at: https://hypebeast.com/2016/5/gucci-alessandro-michele-fashionista-vogue-festival