FijiTime July/August 2019 edition

JUL | AUG 2019

FIJITIME WE LC O M E TO O U R HO M E

2018 Australasia's Leading Inflight Magazine

LUXE LIVING Odyssey Of Indulgence

CICIA CALLING Exploring The Pacific’s First Organic Island

WONDER WORLD Exploring The Fijian Shallows

TONGAN TALES Whale Watching In Vava’u

Discover the South Pacific's secret for beautiful skin and hair

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FIJITIME WELCOM E TO OU R H OME ISSUE 34 | 2019 FijiTime is the complimentary inflight magazine of Fiji Airways, the national airline of Fiji. It is published six times a year in January, March, May, July, September and November by Cover Story Ltd. PUBLISHER Naziah Ali EDITORIAL EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS Shane Hussein Jessan Doton CONSULTING EDITOR Seona Smiles DESIGNER Albert Rolls CONTRIBUTORS Allan Stephen Becca Hensley Benjamin Mack Drue Slatter Feroz Khalil Imere Nadrudru Jorah McKinley Marita Manley Editorial enquiries publisher@coverstory.com.fj Advertising enquiries sales@coverstory.com.fj COVER STORY LTD 46 Gordon Street, Suva PO Box 18357, Suva, Fiji +679 3312061 | mailife.com.fj Correspondence to the airline Chief Executive Officer Fiji Airways PO Box 9266, Nadi Airport Fiji +679 6720777 fjceo@fijiairways.com

© All rights reserved. Copyrighted by Fiji Airways Ltd and Cover Story Limited respectively.

Opinions expressed in FijiTime are solely those of the writers and are not necessarily endorsed by Fiji Airways Ltd and/or Cover Story Limited and their related companies. They are not responsible or liable in any way for the contents of any of advertisements, articles, photographs or illustrations contained in this publication. Unsolicited material will not be returned. All information was correct at time of publication.

For flight reservations or more information on Fiji Airways and Fiji Link, please visit fijiairways.com We are available 24 hours a day on the following numbers: Fiji 3304388 or 6720888 Australia 1 800 230 150 New Zealand 0800 800 178 USA and Canada 1 800 227 4446 Mainland China 4001206268 Hong Kong 3192 7568

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This magazine is proudly produced using environmentally friendly and sustainably sourced material.

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ON THE COVER

CONTENTS JUL \ AUG 19

Discover Six Senses and other luxury destinations in Fiji and beyond. Photo Six Senses Resort w

FEATURES

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VEGETARIAN GOODNESS A Vegetarian’s Guide to Fiji Foods

REGULARS

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16 SNAPSHOTS

NATURAL BEAUTY

Catch up on the latest

Discover Sea squirts

updates from Fiji Airways

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ENTERTAINMENT Your inflight movies, TV and music

IN TRANSIT

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Weekend in Nukua’lofa, Tonga

FLY WELL Inflight excercise

Discover beautiful Samoa, host of the 2019 Pacific Games. Photo David Kirkland Courtesy of Samoa Tourism Authority

Fiji Discovery Cruises “I highly recommend this for all ages instead of a resort stay. You visit a different place every day and have ample opportunity to snorkel, swim, relax and participate in a wide variety of Fijian experiences.”

Toni, ACT Australia Oct 2013

Remote North, Lau & Kadavu Discovery Cruises

3, 4 & 7 Night Yasawa Cruises

Sunset Dinner Cruises

Tivua Island Full day Cruises

Reservations & Enquiries

See your travel agent, tour desk or call us in Fiji on 6701 823 or call in at our Port Denarau or Nadi Airport desk

Or book online at www.captaincook.com.fj or email us Fiji@captaincook.com.fj 6 this FIJITIME Mention advertisement to receive your free gift when booking your cruise

F I J I ’ S

C R U I S E

L I N E

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BULA

Andre

Shaenaz

Managing Director and CEO Fiji Airways fjceo@fijiairways.com @fijiairways

Executive General Manager Fiji Link gm@fijilink.com @fijiairways

Bula to all friends of Fiji Airways. Thank you for flying Fiji’s National Airline today, and I welcome you onboard by saying, Welcome to Our Home.

I greet you in this edition of FijiTime with some exciting news to share. In May this year, we announced our acquisition of two new state-of-the-art Airbus A350 XWB aircraft which will join our fleet as our flagship aircraft in November and December this year.

Combining the latest aerodynamics, new Rolls-Royce Trent XWB generation engines and use of lightweight materials, the A350 XWB brings a 25% advantage in fuel burn compared to previous generation similar-sized aircraft, meaning a significant reduction to the airline’s carbon footprint and fuel cost.

These aircraft, with Airspace by Airbus cabin is the quietest of any twin-aisle aircraft and offers passengers and crews the most modern in-flight products for the most comfortable flying experience. Not only will the aircraft provide the ultimate in luxury air travel to Fiji, it’s also perfect for passengers taking long-haul connecting flights to other destinations. Boasting the latest generation AVANT inflight entertainment system and WiFi connectivity, guests will be able to enjoy live channels, movies, tv and music on-demand, all whilst remaining connected in the air.

Once the aircraft enter commercial service later this year, our customers will enjoy a truly world class onboard experience, supported by the authentic Fijian hospitality of our crews. We hope you are as excited as we are about our latest addition, and look forward to welcoming you onboard to experience them for yourselves.

Thank you for your business and for choosing to fly Fiji’s National Airline. We look forward to your continued feedback regarding our service. Please write to fjceo@ fijiairways.com with anything you’ve noted on this flight.

Bula vinaka to all our guests, from all of us here at Fiji Link, the domestic subsidiary of Fiji Airways. Thank you for choosing to travel to this special piece of paradise we call home, Fiji. To our local travellers flying with us today, ni sa bula vinaka and welcome onboard.

We know we live in a beautiful part of the world, and that extends to our Pacific Island neighbours in addition to our home, Fiji.

Our idyllic location is complemented by the wonderful people and rich cultural diversity.

In this edition we explore a number of the most prominent Pacific Island festivals that form a big part of the social scene in their respective communities, showcasing local talent, cuisine and art.

These festivals are a great way to experience the local scene and make new friends with some of the world’s most welcoming people.

While we’re in the Pacific, we check out how to score luxury at a price that won’t bust budgets.

From air, to land, to sea, we go on marine adventures to the North with Captain Cook Cruises, to beautiful Savusavu with Quixotic Cruises, and some subterranean discovery onboard the Naia Dive ship.

It’s great to share more of our home with you in another edition of FijiTime, and we hope you enjoy what we have in store for you.

If there’s anything we can do to make your flight more comfortable, please do not hesitate to let our crew know.

VILJOEN

VOSS

Vinaka Shaenaz

Vinaka.

Andre

About Us: Founded in 1951, Fiji Airways Group comprises of Fiji Airways, Fiji’s National Airline and its subsidiaries: Fiji Link, its domestic and regional carrier, Pacific Call Comm Ltd, and a 38.75% stake in the Sofitel Fiji Resort & Spa on Denarau Island, Nadi. Fiji Airways has a fleet of brand new wide body A330s and refreshed B737 aircrafts. Fiji Link has a fleet of ATR 72, ATR42 and DHC-6 Twin Otter aircraft. From its hubs at both Nadi and Suva International Airports, Fiji Airways and Fiji Link serve 64 destinations in 13 countries (including code-share). Destinations include Australia, New Zealand, the USA, the UK, Hong Kong, Singapore, Samoa, Tonga, Tuvalu, Kiribati, Vanuatu and Solomon Islands. The Fiji Airways Group brings in 64 percent of all visitors who fly to Fiji, employs over 1000 employees, earn revenues of over FJD$815 million (USD $390m), and directly contribute a significant portion of the country’s Gross Domestic Product (GDP). Fiji Airways rebranded from Air Pacific in June 2013.

Visit fijiairways.com for more information.

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DIsCOvER

Are you vegan traveller looking for grub tips? Read the guide for the vegetarian traveller on Page 26.

Photo VITTORIA PASCA

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DIVE

ENCOURAGING US ALL TO BE AMBASSADORS FOR THE OCEAN Slip below the surface of the sea at Namena Island Marine Reserve, the largest marine protected area in Fiji and you will find yourself in an aquatic realm filled with a rich diversity of life of every shape, size and color. At first sight it might seem like a scene of complete chaos with fish darting about, predators closing in on their prey, bright coloration used as advertising and communication and many well camouflaged animals, concealed against the backdrop of the colorful coral reef.

But what I always love telling people is when you take the time to learn some interesting and fascinating facts about the life style of many of the reef community members you will start to realize and appreciate how this most diverse ecosystem in our world’s ocean is a great example of a well managed sustainable underwater city. Just about every dive I am pleasantly surprised to see something new at Namena Marine Reserve and I have come to appreciate that it takes a skilled local divemaster to point out some of the secretive and allusive animals.

Even for some of the most sought after animals divers are hoping to witness: sharks, manta rays, sea turtles, it is the locals who know the

Fiji is known as the soft coral capital of the world and supports a large network of reefs around most of the three hundred and thirtythree islands that make up Fiji. It is with the graciousness and warm hospitality of the Fijians that we appreciate this special invitation to enjoy world-class diving and learn from many local experts about beauty and fragility of all the different nature experiences in Fiji.

Not only are world-class scuba diving adventures available but many other beautiful ecotourism opportunities are worth the time and effort to enjoy: hikes through the lush rainforests, kayaking the mangroves, sailing, bird watching, surfing, star gazing or just enjoying a breathtaking sunset over the South Pacific horizon.

I hold a deep respect and admiration for the Fijians and their beautiful island home. We are all caretakers of the natural environment and the oceans that sustain all life. Increasingly we are becoming aware of how our life-style choices are effecting a rapidly changing environment. May every exploration here in Fiji reveal how important it is to protect and cherish the rich diversity of all life.

Fiji is becoming a global leader in demonstrating the importance of sustaining their cultural diversity and their environmental quality of life. After your visit to these island jewels, may you take home with you a sense of curiosity, inspiration and a new desire to take the responsibility to create a sea of change of ocean stewardship for us all, now and for future generations. I always say, ‘protect the ocean and you protect yourself’.

reefs intimately well to know where best to take the tourists.

This is one of the many reasons why I appreciate the opportunity to be an Ambassador for Fiji Airways. I want to encourage people everywhere to experience this unique Pacific Island Nation. By seeing for ourselves the richness of coral reefs, I hope we all seek our own personal connection to urgency of ocean protection.

© Brett Monroe Garner

© Brett Monroe Garner

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© Brett Monroe Garner

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© Tom Ordway, Ocean Futures Society

© Carrie Vonderhaar, Ocean Futures Society

STAR FLYER Travel like a local with these handy tips from a Fiji Airways insider

HENRY PATTERSON A330 FIRST OFFICER

BEST THING ABOUT BEING A PILOT The travelling. I enjoy exploring the different cities on our routes.

ON THE MOST CHALLENGING THING ABOUT BEING A PILOT Adapting to a different time zone and acclimating.

FAVOURITE DESTINATION TO VISIT OUTSIDE FIJI I consider LA home away from home because I know the place quite well now, and there’s always so much to do. I enjoy the little beachside cafés, bars and restaurants that run along Manhattan Beach. They have a great vibe, and a more relaxed atmosphere. If I have a few days’ layover in LA, I like to rent a car and drive around the city taking in all the sights, finding new places to check out and of course do a little shopping.

WHY FIJI WILL ALWAYS BE HOME In all my travels, I have come to appreciate Fiji even more. Fiji’s tropical beauty, the friendliness of the people, and our way of life is truly unique and not something I take for granted.

In this edition of High Flyer, we chat to Henry Patterson, one of our A330 First Officers who moonlights as a travel photographer when he’s not flying a plane. We talk travel, finding a home away from home in Los Angeles, and what makes flying so fascinating even after six and a half years.

FAVOURITE SPOT/PLACE IN FIJI Visiting the old capital - Levuka.

FAVOURITE SUPERHERO Thor.

THREE TRAVEL ESSENTIALS My phone, a light jacket, and comfortable sneakers.

ON UNWINDING AFTER A HECTIC WORK WEEK It’s the simple pleasures. I like catching up with family and friends. I also love watching sports, especially rugby and the NBA.

PERSONAL TRAVEL TIPS Staying well hydrated and getting adequate rest before a flight.

ON THE MOST INTERESTING EXPERIENCE AT WORK It would be the first time I experienced an automatic landing on the Airbus. Just the fact that a 180 tonne aircraft approaching the runway at around 140 knots (260km/hr) can touchdown on its own is nothing short of amazing for me.

IF NOT FLYING THEN… I love my career and wouldn’t change it, but if I wasn’t flying, I’d give sailing a go.

ADVICE FOR THOSE WISHING TO JOIN THE AIRLINE INDUSTRY The aviation industry is exciting and ever changing, with no two days being the same. If a sense of adventure is what you’re seeking, join the airline industry.

PERSONAL WORK MANTRA/PHILOSOPHY Appreciation for the opportunity I have by putting in the work, always having a willingness to learn and taking advice from fellow colleagues.

FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: A majestic view of Sydney Harbour from the flight deck. Capturing Singapore from Marina Bay Sands.

View from the office. INSET PHOTOS by Henry Patterson. BACKGROUND: The old capital of Fiji, Levuka is Patterson’s hometown and one of his favourite destinations Photo: Kama Catch Me FIJITIME

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SNAPSHOTS

BULA A350!

FIJI RUGBY WORLD 7S CHAMPIONS Huge congratulations to our Fiji Airways 7s team who were crowned champions of the World Rugby Sevens Series this year.

This victory follows back-to-back wins at the London 7s beating Australia 43-7 in the final at Twickenham, and the final 7s leg in Paris beating New Zealand 35-24. The Fiji Airways 7s team closed the series on top with a total of five wins which includes Cape Town (South Africa), Hamilton (New Zealand), Hong Kong, London (England), and Paris (France).

Our Fiji Airways 7s team have earned their spot for the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo, which is the cherry on top of an amazing season.

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In November and December, we will be adding two exciting additions to our fleet.

Two new state-of-the-art Airbus A350 XWB aircraft will become our flagship aircraft as part of our widebody aircraft expansion plans.

Combining the latest aerodynamics, new Rolls-Royce Trent XWB generation engines and use of lightweight materials, the A350 XWB brings a 25% advantage in fuel burn, operating costs and carbon dioxide emissions compared to previous generation similar-sized aircraft, meaning a significant reduction to the airline’s carbon footprint and fuel cost.

Ultimately, a luxury, world-class destination, like Fiji, deserves a luxury, world-class travel

CRUSADERS HELP US PLANT 12,000 MANGROVES

We were delighted to host the Crusaders in June when they were in town for their Super Rugby match against the Chiefs in Suva.

Israel Dagg, Manasa Mataele and Ere Enari received a rapturous reception from hundreds of eager students at Holy Trinity

experience and that’s exactly what these aircraft will deliver. For our guests, the holiday starts the moment they board the aircraft.

The Airbus A350 will feature 33 B/E Aerospace Super Diamond, fully lie-flat Business Class beds, with each offering direct aisle access. While Economy Class will feature 301 Recaro CL3710 seats, which are ranked among the most comfortable long-haul economy class seats on the market.

The A350 XWB’s Airspace by Airbus cabin is the quietest of any twin-aisle aircraft and offers passengers and crews the most modern in-flight products for the most comfortable flying experience. Not only will the aircraft

provide the ultimate in luxury air travel to Fiji, it’s also perfect for passengers taking longhaul connecting flights to other destinations.

Boasting the latest generation AVANT inflight entertainment system and Wi-Fi connectivity, guests will be able to enjoy live TV channels, movies, tv and music on-demand, all whilst remaining connected in the air.

The two new A350 XWB aircraft will complement Fiji Airways’ existing wide body fleet of six Airbus A330s, with delivery set for November and December this year, and the commencement of commercial flights from January 1, 2020.

and Jai Narayan College.

The players also got their hands dirty when they helped us plant 12,000 mangrove seedlings along the Suva foreshore as part of our Every Take-off One Tree initiative. This year, the goal is to plant 23,000 mangroves.

Although not glamorous, mangroves are the unsung heroes of our coasts, sequestering up to four times more carbon than rainforests of equal area. They act as heavy metal sinks and protect delicate coastlines from erosion, tidal waves, and provide a rich ecosystem for many organisms.

We were honoured to have the Crusaders join us for this important activity.

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ARRIVAL BIOSECURITY Fiji laws require everyone arriving from overseas to declare all biosecurity risk goods including food, plant, plant products, used material and animal products to biosecurity officers at its borders. These goods could harbour exotic weeds, pests and diseases that could damage and destroy Fiji’s unique flora and fauna, environment, agriculture, livestock and tourism industries as well as the health of local communities. When arriving in Fiji you will be given a passenger arrival card. This is a legal document and required by law. It is important that you read and fill out this card carefully and truthfully.

CASH AND CREDIT CARDS Cash is generally used in the smaller stores around the country. Larger shops, hotels and restaurants will accept most credit cards.

CHECK-IN For all international flights, check-in counters open three hours prior, and close one hour before departure. Domestic flights open 90 minutes before departure and close 30 minutes before departure. You can also check-in online between 4-24hrs before your flight.

CLIMATE Fiji enjoys a mild tropical climate averaging 31°C (88°F) during the summer months of November to April and 29°C (84°F) during the winter months of May to October.

COMMUNICATION Mobile outlets are located at Nadi Airport international arrivals. You can purchase a prepaid SIM card for local and international calls and internet data.

CULTURAL There are many cultural activities you can engage in whilst on holiday. Check with your hotel reception or activity desk on what is available in your area and ask about cultural tips on dress code for visiting villages and more.

If participating in a kava (yaqona) session, clap once before accepting the bowl, and then three times, after handing back the empty bowl. It is

customary to accept the first bowl, but you may respectfully decline the second bowl, if offered.

CURRENCY Fiji Dollar (FJD). Banks include ANZ, Bank of Baroda, Bank of South Pacific, HFC, BRED and Westpac.

DRESS Dress is casual and informal throughout the islands. The wraparound sulu (sarong) is Fiji’s most distinctive form of dress. Modest dress is advised in towns and villages in respect of the culture.

DUTY FREE ALLOWANCE 2.25 litres of spirits or 4.5 litres of beer or 4.5 litres of wine. 200 cigarettes or 200 grams of tobacco. For a full list of all countries we fly to, please refer to our Lomalagi magazine. Please note, for passengers who are transiting through Nadi, your Duty Free will be confiscated as part of liquids, aerosols and gels (LAGS) restrictions in place by Civil Aviation Authority.

ELECTRICITY The electrical current in Fiji is 240 volts AC/50 cycles. Fiji has three pin power outlets identical to Australia and New Zealand.

EMERGENCY NUMBERS Police: 917, Fire and ambulance: 911 When staying in any rural areas, ask a local person for the number and location for the nearest police station and medical centre.

TRANSPORT Getting around the islands is easy with our subsidiary airline Fiji Link or jump aboard a sea transfer to the islands. On the main island of Viti Levu, taxis, private cars and coach transfers are available.

PASSPORT AND VISA REQUIREMENTS Passports must be valid for at least six months beyond the intended period of stay in Fiji and a return or onward travel ticket is required. Entry visas are granted on arrival for visitors from eligible countries.

LANGUAGE English is the official language of Fiji. However, indigenous Fijians also speak iTaukei while Indo-Fijians speak Fiji Hindi.

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ITAUKEI (INDIGENOUS FIJIAN)

Bula – Hello Bula Vinaka – A warm Hello Ni sa moce (ni sa mothey) – Good bye Vinaka – Thank you Kerekere – Please Mai Kana – Let’s eat

FIJI BAAT (HINDI)

Namaste – Polite greeting, polite farewell Goodbye – Bye (English commonly used) Kaise hai (kaise hey) – Informal, how are you?

Dhanyavaad / Shukriya – Formal thank you Thank you – English commonly used Please – English commonly used Kaana kao – Eat

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With Heli

GENERAL INFO

There’s a wide range of quality golf courses in Fiji, from international championship golf courses to small “pitch and putts”. You can play a round at the Denarau Golf and Racquet Club, Natadola Bay Golf Course (Coral Coast), Fiji Golf Club (Suva), the Ba, Labasa, Lautoka, Suncoast and Nadi Airport Clubs, Novotel Nadi and the Robert Trent Jones (Jnr) designed course at Pacific Harbour.

Fiji is a multicultural nation and dining options in towns and within hotels and resorts reflect this.

Dishes from India and Asia and local seafood can be found in most restaurants, along with international favourites to please every palate.

Fiji’s best known and distinctive outdoor feast, the lovo, is an inground oven of heated rocks used for cooking a variety of foods wrapped in banana leaves.

Known as the ‘Soft Coral Capital of the World’, Fiji is home to a vivid array of reef life and a wide spectrum of underwater creatures including sharks, manta rays and over 1000 species of fish. Visitors can swim with manta rays in the Yasawas or feed tiger and bull sharks in Beqa Lagoon. Fiji ranks consistently in the top five dive spots in the world with Taveuni, Beqa, Kadavu and Suncoast being areas of note.

GOLF DINE

SHOP

THINGS TO DO DIVE

ADVENTURE

SURF

Some popular Fiji items to bring home for friends and family include Fijian inspired designer T-shirts and Bula shirts, replica war clubs, cannibal forks, Fijian combs and carved tanoa bowls, from which the national drink yaqona is mixed and served. Handicrafts like traditional woven baskets and mats, masi (tapa cloth), wood carving and pottery items are also popular.

A bestseller for both men and women is the sulu (Fijian sarong). Most stores are closed on Sundays.

Explore Class ll to lll whitewater rapids aboard inflatable kayaks and whitewater rafts along two of the country’s premier liquid pathways, the Upper Navua Gorge and Wainikoroiluva. River rafting offers a great way to experience some of Fiji’s most spectacular terrain. For those wanting to reach new heights, there are ziplines at the Sleeping Giant mountain range in Nadi and AIR AMBULANCE Wainadoi near Suva.

& MEDICAL SERVICES

Fiji is one of the world’s premier surf destinations, bringing the world’s best surfers to its waves. The Mamanuca Islands, Beqa, Kadavu and Sigatoka are home to some great surf breaks with islands like Tavarua and Namotu Experienced multi-disciplinary health catering specifically for surfers. Stand up paddle boarding is also becoming increasingly popular.

team, incorporating doctors, nurses and paramedics that can rapidly respond and provide lifesaving treatment, covering Fiji and South Pacific Islands.

AIR AMBULANCE & MEDICAL SERVICES

AIR AMBULANCE & MEDICAL SERVICES

Experienced multi-disciplinary health

Experienced multi-disciplinary health team, incorporating doctors, nurses and paramedics that can rapidly respond and provide lifesaving treatment, covering Fiji and South Pacific Islands.

team, incorporating doctors, nurses and Hot Line: +(679) 770 77 00 24/7/365 Emergency paramedics that can rapidly respond and provide lifesaving treatment, covering Fiji and South Pacific Islands.

With our Land Ambulance, Medevac Jet and Air Ambulance Helicopter, HELIPRO FIJI offers medevac services, Search & Rescue, medical standby for events and filming sets throughout the South Pacific. Our fleet is crewed by highly trained ICU medical staff including flight crew, doctors, nurses and paramedics to provide professional emergency treatment with a seamless transition to further care.

STAY SAFE! Use our QR code to save our emergency details.

24/7/365 Emergency Hot Line: +(679) 770 77 www.helipro.com.fj 00 With our Land Ambulance, Medevac Jet and Air Ambulance

Helicopter, HELIPRO FIJI offers 24/7/365 Emergency Hot Line: +(679) 770 77 medevac 00 services, Search & Rescue, medical standby for events and filming sets throughout the South Pacific. Our fleet is crewed by highly trained ICU medical staff

including flight crew, doctors, nurses and paramedics to provide With our Land Ambulance, Medevac Jet and Air Ambulance professional Helicopter, HELIPRO FIJI offers medevac services, Search & Rescue,emergency treatment with a seamless transition to

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LEGEND ADVERTORIAL

BUROTU

BUROTOKULA LEGEND Story by EZRA PICKERING Illustration by ALBERT ROLLS

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The belief is that if a shooting star is sighted

The existence of life after death is a mystery many minds have pondered. Burotu is the underworld paradise in Fijian mythology that

falling into the valley, a villager is about to die.

The legend of the doorway to Burotu arose when Degei was angered by the villagers who occupied this valley. Degei, also known as the

is thought to be the final place of judgement for newly departed souls.

Judgement is made by the snake god Degei, the supreme god of Viti (Fiji), of the ancient days. Only a few are granted entrance into Burotu, the rest are thrown into another part of the underworld: a lake, Murimuria, where souls sink to the bottom to be dealt either punishment or reward. Burotu is believed to be filled with the truly good, be looked upon by an unclouded sky and have an abundance of every heart’s desire.

Legend tells of the existence of a doorway to Burotu called Nadrio, meaning ‘darkness’, that is located in a small valley in the sand dunes of Sigatoka.

god of wrath, displayed his fury in a terrible way. He sent a huge tidal wave to hit the coast, burying the village in sand and killing all its inhabitants. The neighboring villagers of Kulukulu claim to see and hear spirits of those who were buried alive in the sand.

In earlier versions of the myth, Burotu was believed to be fitting only for those who had taken lives and consumed the roasted flesh of their enemies.

As time moved on and missionaries arrived in the islands, ideas and beliefs about this underworld paradise become merely stories.

Today, the legend of Burotu is told around the fire or when family members relax on the mat, as a bed time tale by those who remember it.

FESTIVALS

FESTIVALS of the South Pacific

By PRIYA DARSNI There is not a region in the world that brings dance, art, food and celebration together quite like the South Pacific Islands. With each island celebrating many festivals throughout the year — some stemming from religion or tradition and some from harvest seasons – there are a few stand-out festivities that should be on every traveller’s bucket list.

THE VODAFONE FIJI HIBISCUS FESTIVAL - FIJI An annual affair which started in 1956, The Vodafone Fiji Hibiscus Festival is celebrated in Fiji’s capital city, Suva. The popular event brings people together from all over the main island, Viti Levu and packs an itinerary with cultural performances and the coveted Miss Hibiscus beauty pageant. Over the years, the festival has evolved to crown a Hibiscus King, Teen, Prince and Princess as well and takes the Hibiscus queen title holder to regional and international pageants. Spanning more than a week, the festival has something for everyone — amusement park rides, colourful float processions, cultural performances reflecting Fiji’s diverse population, live music and numerous food stalls. The event has become a powerful social tool with themes such as 2017’s “Climate Change – Telling Our Own Narrative”, and multiple fundraisers for charities during the week.

The Vodafone Fiji Hibiscus Festival is usually held around mid-August in the capital city, Suva.

THE TEUILA FESTIVAL - SAMOA Despite starting 35 years after Fiji’s Hibiscus Festival, the Teuila Festival of Samoa has since caught up and found it’s rightful place as one of the largest cultural events in the South Pacific region. Named after the Teuila flower, this event is a snapshot of the Samoan culture with displays of traditional wood carvings and live Samoan tatau (tattoo) exhibitions. The Samoan tatau process is infamous for being exceptionally painful compared to western tattoo methods. It is undertaken only by tufuga ta tatau (master tattooists), who use traditional handmade tools of bone, turtle shell and wood. The acclaimed Samoan Police band also performs each year with the full brass band line up.

The best choir groups on the island come together for friendly competition.

Much like the Hibiscus Festival, Samoa holds their Miss Teuila pageant at this time each year. Before the title winner is crowned, the Miss Tutti Frutti contestants compete for a crown. These contestants are fa’afafine (translates to ‘like a lady’), men who identify as women. Fa’afafine have been in Samoa long before colonisation and are at the centre of their families and church to this day.

The Teuila Festival is usually held in late August in the capital city, Apia.

THE HEILALA FESTIVAL - TONGA Another South Pacific Festival named after a national flower, the Heilala Festival of Tonga is the biggest event in the country. Unlike any other festival, the Heilala is a week long celebration with a special purpose — to celebrate the birthday of the Tongan King. With festivities to honour the reigning monarch, the whole country celebrates with traditional food cooked in earth ovens, historic myths performed in song and dance, gospel choir competitions as well as the infamous fire dancing performances. There is, of course, a Miss Heilala beauty pageant, where young women from all over the island come together to show the best of their culture, talents and heritage. There is a royal kava ceremony which takes place mid-week and the celebration of the national flower continues with a floral arrangement competition.

The Heilala Festival usually takes place around July 4th each year in Nuku’alofa.

THE FARA FESTIVAL - ROTUMA Although it is part of Fiji, the island of Rotuma is a prominent presence of its own in the South Pacific. The annual festival of Fara is considered the highlight of the Rotuman year. A unique event in itself, Fara is all about song and dance without the embellishments of the larger annual festivals in the South Pacific. The term Fara means to ’to ask’ and traditionally, groups of singers would travel to houses in their neighbourhood, asking everyone to come outside and join them in song. The modern day version of Fara is a collective affair with groups of all sizes gathering at homes and halls with their ukeleles, guitars, and drums to spend the night in song. The musicians are accompanied by dancers who will be covered in talcum powder by the end of the night — a tradition at most South Pacific festivities.

The Fara Festival usually takes place in the summer period in Rotuma.

THE TAKA TONA FESTIVAL - VANUATU Only the fortunate have timing good enough to have their stay in Vanuatu coincide with the Taka Tona Festival. The three to five day affair takes place only at the word of the highest chief, whenever he deems the time to be auspicious.

Tribes from all over the country come together for food and specifically, to dance. The traditional roots of Tanna island are brought to life with the exuberant designs on the faces of women. Rich hues of purple, pink, blue and yellow on a contrasting white base animate the faces of the dancers. In villages all over the country, hundreds of colourful dancers will perform without stopping over an entire 24 hours. The final dance is followed by an elaborate feast enjoyed by all.

The Taka Tona Festival takes place sporadically at the choosing of the high chief in Vanuatu, with lapses of up to three years between festivals.

SPEAR FESTIVAL - SOLOMON ISLANDS The Solomon Islands were first visited by the Spanish navigator, Álvaro de Mendaña, and it is on the Spanish named Santa Catalina Island (known also as Owa Riki) within the Solomon archipelago that the annual Spear Throwing Festival is held.

Spear Throwing is a prestigious artform for the Solomon Islanders, in which men adorn their bodies with symbols and designs before taking up traditionally crafted spears. In contrast to the light-hearted festivals on other islands, the Wogasia has a much more serious purpose with actual spear battles taking place on the beach before a feast is held. Although there is little damage or injury, the cry of the conch shell, the beating of the ground to call the warriors and seriousness of the bystanders adds an air of solemnity to the event. The purpose of the festivals is to rid the land of bad spirits and settle any animosity between neighbours before the new planting season arrives.

The Wogasia Spear Festival takes place at the end of May every year on Santa Catalina Island, a short boat trip from Honiara.

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EVENTS CALENDAR

HEILALA FESTIVAL – NUKUA’LOFA, TONGA 22 June - 11 July As the Heilala flowers bloom, Tongans celebrate the birthday of their King, followed by a week long festival. The events over the three week extravaganza include the Miss Heilala Pageant, processions and music festivals. A block party, Tongan cultural night, float parade and a grand ball are part of the programme.

For more info contact: Tourism Tonga, +676 25334, info@ tourism-tonga.com 2019 Pacific Games – Apia, Samoa 7 July - 20 July The Pacific games will be held in Apia, Samoa and is expected to bring over 3500 athletes from about 24 countries in the region.

The opening will be held on the 7th of July with the two week event closing on the 20th.

ISLAND CHILL SUVA MARATHON - SUVA, FIJI July 27 Suva’s very own marathon is t for all ages and abilities. You are able to choose between the full marathon, a half marathon, team marathon and a fun run. The marathon begins at 5:30am with all the other races following, ending at around 12 when all runners should be finished. Everyone is encouraged to come and cheer on participants with crafts and music going on as well. The event will start off from Albert Park Stadium. www.suvamarathon.org VODAFONE HIBISCUS FESTIVAL - SUVA FIJI August 11 to August 19 SUVA, Fiji Held annually in the month of August to coincide with the second term school break in Fiji. The annual beauty pageant and the crowning of the Hibiscus Queen are amongst the chief draws, but families also flock to the festival for the rides in the amusement park, browse stalls and listen to the free entertainment. The festival, now 63 years old is a fun event for visitors from abroad as well as for Fiji family and friends. Suva citizens rate it the ‘Mother of all Festivals’, ‘Pride of the Capital City’, and ‘Premier in the South Pacific.’

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Hibiscus Festival Every year, during August, excitement fills Fiji’s capital city of Suva as the Pacific’s premier festival comes to town. The Vodafone Hibiscus Festival is Fiji’s longest running, since 1956.

The first festival was held for one night only in Suva Town Hall, a venerable colonial building that has since become a restaurant venue.

Due to its huge success the festival ran for three days the next year and it wasn’t long before it become a weeklong event. Although highly successful, after 30 years it began to lack vigour and took a lapse in the mid-80s. Renamed the Hibiscus Carnival, it again delighted substantial crowds over many more years until early in the millennium, when much of its lustre and energy began to fade. That was when Suva City Council and the Suva Retailers Association collaborated to establish the Hibiscus Events Group Inc and successfully revive the spirit of the Hibiscus Festival.

During the first week of Fiji’s second term school holidays, people from all across Fiji travel with their families to Suva to join the revelry. Many sport new outfits in colourful ‘Hibiscus print’ fabric for the occasion, women in traditional sulu tiaba (long skirt and top) and men in matching bula shirts.

Visitors have likened it to “the town fair on caffeine”. One week of food, rides, marches, sporting activities, float procession, exhibits, arts and culture make it the highlight of Suva’s calendar. The city is awash with activities, but the main draw of the festival is the pageant that ends with the crowning of “Miss Hibiscus”.

Young women between 18 and 25 compete in a series of events to determine the winner. Miss Hibiscus then goes on to the Miss Fiji pageant.

Over the years, the Hibiscus pageant has evolved and added other categories such as Hibiscus Kings and Hibiscus Teens. Each night of the festival is themed, with contestants either performing or discussing issues relevant to the festival theme of the year. Social and environmental issues such as climate change, non-communicable diseases and mental health have all been festival themes and a certain level of advocacy is associated with the Hibiscus Festival, alongside all of the merriment.

Previously held in Albert Park on Victoria Parade, this year the festival will be moved to the Vodafone Arena in Laucala Bay. The indoor location guarantees that festivities continue regardless of weather conditions, allowing revellers to enjoy each day unaffected.

If you are around the capital city during this week, head down to Laucala Bay to experience Suva city in all its glory. As a fun outing for family or an interesting exploration for the solo traveller to see the characters of Suva out and about, the Vodafone Hibiscus Festival is the place to go.

Ocean Swim Fiji

From breathtaking beach and island locations to dreamy relaxation, cultural encounters and classic Fijian hospitality, Ocean Swim Fiji is a world-class event and the ultimate swimcation for 2019. From the 22nd to the 26th of August, an incredible five-day luxury experience and swim in crystal clear waters, relax on the beaches with hosted dinners and social events will be held in Fiji. Both 1km and 3km swim options are available at three breathtaking beach and island locations, plus Olympic swimming legend Shane Gould is joining is for a swimming masterclass and to share her career highlights. All-inclusive packages are available and numbers are strictly limited to only 200 swim spots, so find out more and save your spot now. www.oceanswimfiji.com

Naturally Fiji’s new additions

Naturally Fiji are proud of their association with some of Fiji’s prestigious spa’s, international hotels and top end tourism retailers. Our product range is infused with natural ingredients, including Black & White Orchid, Virgin Coconut Oil, Neem & Noni extracts & Dilo Oil to create fragrant body lotions, skin protecting oils, luxury spa soaps, sugar scrubs and shower essentials like shampoo, conditioner and shower gels.

Our range of Body Lotions are now available in 150ml tubes, with the smaller 60ml & 30ml tubes targeted for hotel room amenities. Our recent introductions are Body Butter infused with Virgin Coconut Oil which nourishes and hydrates your skin naturally and Lip Balm to naturally protect your sensitive lips from the ravaging sun and wind.

A SUVA MUST VISIT, HERITAGE BUILDING, FORMER HOME OF FIJIAN HIGH CHIEF & STATESMAN

BREAKFAST (MON. TO FRI.) 9AM – 12PM (SAT. TO SUN.) 8AM – 12PM LUNCH 7 DAYS A WEEK 12PM – 2:30PM DINNER 4 NIGHTS (WED. TO SAT.) 6PM – 9PM 46-50 KNOLLY STREET, SUVA RESERVATIONS PH: 3375 050

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Portrait of an Artist

LAMBERT HO

By SHARON BHAGWAN ROLLS “I am Lambert Ho the artist from the barracks. The FSC barracks” referring to his humble family beginnings in Lautoka: “I started at kindergarten. I was always painting and when we had our nap time I didn’t sleep.”

With older siblings who invested in colours and paper to support his creativity, Ho surprised his family by winning a television for his family from one of the many colouring competitions he was encouraged to enter!

We had first met when Ho was a commercial artist with the advertising agency Wilson Addison: “Dominic Sansom was a family friend and he invited me to join the team in ‘92” The advertising world taught Ho to design purposefully for the company’s clients from designing logos to creating advertisements: “That was good because that was a good mixture of combining my raw talent in drawing and combining that with aspects in advertising” It was an important time of learning about the range of medium formats at a time when production was hands on – rather than having the ease of computer graphics and publishing: “Advertising was a good tool to expand my artistic horizon, developing skills to meet the deadlines” Over the years his portfolio has expanded to cover visual art, fashion, sculpture and murals: “I am an artist who has dealt in all different mediums” “When I was in advertising I used to go back home to our shop in Nasese and paint while serving customers. That was my release”.

Painting remains his primary medium but there remains a fluidity to his work through the years: “None of my pieces are the same. I can go from a very dark piece to a very bright and colourful one. “I can’t stick to one style, it just flows” he says.

An exhibition of his work at Leleuvia Island in October (2018), was a collection that seemed to come from ten different artists. Each collection, each exhibition, represents a different time and moment in the journey of life as an artist. What stands out is the detail to colours and movement.

During a journey aboard the Uto-ni-Yalo, that took him to five Pacific Island countries, it was that moment on the ocean that guided his painting: “I was sailing, painting the ocean and painting the creatures that I saw, At every port that we came to, I would paint and gift it to the people of the land. I would gift them a picture of the ‘Uto” Each piece featured a distinct and varied representation of the ‘Uto ni Yalo that communicates the soul of the vaka.

Each piece, whether it is a commissioned piece or a personal piece begins with a free flow of energy: “When I paint sometimes there is a blockage. But there is always an inclination to paint. It is you, your thought processes and your paintbrush.

For me I don’t think too much about it. It just flows out of my left hand, I

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just paint. It evolves. It is a free flow of energy It clears my head” Then comes the detailing, which can also mean confronting dark moments: “When that happens then my mind is opening up to what can be seen, done, improved, washed over. When the painting progresses then I start to feel my emotions coming to play. Images relate to past experiences, memories. This evolves.”

The process is a deeply emotional that can make him happy, sad or even disconnected. He admits there have been dark moments: “(that is why) After I paint a picture I have to step out of that space” Lambert Ho and I are meeting surrounded by the Pacific blue ocean and the lush tropical nature at Leleuvia Island home of the Waisiliva Art Gallery a tribute to the work of artists including Jaabi Faarai and Josie Crick: “In fact the gallery was Jaabi’s idea when was the resident artist. This is now a dedicated space” says Ho Ho has seen many galleries open and close. Today there is the Tagimoucia Gallery associated with the Suva Prisons art programme for inmates. Out west there are a few galleries as well. Some restaurants and resorts offer wall space.

It is one of places where he returns regularly to create and he explains plans for his next collection and exhibition: “I am trying to find a style that’s what I’m working on”. The plan is to produce up to fifteen pieces that include the fusion of traditional art, monochrome and vivid contemporary pieces: “It will have a distinct look of being ‘a Lambert Ho’” Ho agrees with many of his contemporaries that there is a need for more dedicated spaces to exhibit and celebrate the history of Fiji’s contemporary art, to provide a space for heritage artists, working exhibition foor children to learn and experience different art forms as well as support local artists in selling their pieces.

To support the development of Fiji’s art scene he adds requires greater investments in art programmes in schools: “You need that to balance academics and sports, to awaken the creativity” Community art programmes, like mural productions, can be an engaging way to involve young people, to add colour to local neighbourhoods: “There are opportunities. The governance of the towns and cities need to support these, to link artists to visits by cruise ships” Local initiatives can also be a way to connect tourists with local artists, particularly young artists, who are also connected to an income generating stream.

The journey of Lambert Ho continues to evolve, as he looks ahead at Fiji’s art scene he hopes that there will be greater cohesion between traditional and contemporary artists: “We need all the communication lines open to talk to each other more frequently. We are all part of the same journey. We need to keep it going by educating the younger generations”

ENJOY

Fun

HUB Photos by VOU FIJI Fun Hub Fiji is the new epicenter for Arts! Culture! And Activities! just minutes away from Denarau Island, Nadi. The idea was the brainchild of husband and wife duo Sachiko and Edward Soro – the founders of VOU Dance Company. VOU is widely known in Fiji, in operation since 2007 and also touring major festivals in more than 25 countries internationally. The VOU team realised that they had no artistic home in Fiji where they could showcase what they love to do best – so they decided to create one and the Fun Hub Fiji was born.

The Fun Hub is a five year plan to create five different, unique, arts venues for different interests. The first is the Big Top Arena in which a circus meets traditional Fijian story telling.

The exciting first show being staged at the Big Top Arena every Wednesday to Sunday at 8pm to 10pm will be “Fiji Untold”.

This performance is a story of mystical giant women, octopus gods of the vast Fijian ocean, and a shape shifting iguana spirit adorned in the long-lost dance sticks of a village crying out for a hero. A young girl of chiefly Fijian heritage is plunged into a journey of daring self-discovery: one that takes her far beyond the soil from which she was born and into the dreamy Fijian underworld she has only ever heard of through the half-whispered, half-remembered dance stories of aunties and uncles around late night kava sessions.

Fun Hub is the only venue in Fiji to see traditional Fijian concepts and stories told in exciting modern and innovative ways.

An enticing performance awakens the senses and leads into a state of the art Big Top arena to see the story of FIJI UNTOLD, ignited by a passion of song and dance.

Become completely immersed in this contemporary and traditional world of a Fiji long ago and leave with a deeper cultural connection to Fiji.

At Fun Hub Fiji the desire is to offer the highest standard of Fijian performing arts possible to guests to come and experience evenings of delight. After fun by the pool or cruising the islands in the day there is now something equally exciting to experience in the evening.

The meaning of VOU in Fijian is “new” and the VOU Dance company strives to achieve the blending of old and new, bringing ancient knowledge to life in new ways. Keeping up with this name, VOU Company aims to launch a new full length production every year, so that audiences can experience something completely new and different every time they make a return visit to Fiji – and the Fun Hub. The founding philosophy of VOU Dance company is to provide fulfilling and sustainable career paths for Fijian artists. VOU dancers have found opportunities both locally and internationally, but the company wanted to find a home and a place to show the highest quality of Fijian performing arts to guests while providing stable employment for the artists.

To provide career pathways for our dancers we have also founded the Conservatorium of Dance which offers a two-year tertiary dance Diploma Program. There are no fees for talented local dancers to undertake the course and when they graduate they have guaranteed employment with VOU at the Fun Hub Fiji.

Make a visit to the Fun Hub to be taken to a magical world by the imaginative performances and also be supporting Fijian artists to continue to fulfill their dreams to dance with passion and perfection.

Tickets available through VOU website or through hotel tour desks.

Contact: Fun Hub Fiji - Maqelevu, Denarau Road, Nadi, Fiji T: +679 7416592 E: bookings@funhubfiji.com W: www.funhubfiji.com

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eat

AN INSIDER’S Guide to Vegetarian Travelling in Fiji Words & Images by VITTORIA PASCA One of the main questions vegetarians and vegans have before travelling overseas is: will I find any good plantbased food there?

If you’re asking this question right now about your travel to Fiji, then we have some good news for you: yes, you’ll find some great tropical produce in Fiji, as well as many delicious ways to taste it at its best!

Here are some tips on how to make the most of the vegetarian food Fiji has to offer.

TRADITIONAL CUISINE Fijian village food has traditionally been largely plant-based as starchy crops, coconut milk, fruits and vegetables used to be extremely common in local meals. For this reason, even though the diet of Fijians nowadays is relying more and more on animal products, you’ll still be able to find some yummy vegan options.

Earth oven-cooked taro (dalo), sweet potato (kumala) and cassava can be easily found in restaurants and resorts and are often served with palusami and ota miti. Palusami is a local delicacy made from taro leaves (rourou), cooked in coconut milk. Ota miti is a great way to taste Fiji’s very own edible fern with

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a raw coconut milk dressing (often prepared with onions and tomatoes).

If you’re feeling adventurous, it’s definitely worth heading to the market.

Suva central market is one of the best in the South Pacific and there you’ll find an amazing variety of local fruits, vegetables and flowers, as well as take away cooked dishes. Vegan sweet options include babakau (fried bread), lolo buns (buns cooked in coconut milk) and vakalolo (cassava and coconut cake).

Fiji also has two traditional types of vegan “cheese”! Kora is made from grated coconut marinated in seawater and can be sprinkled on food just like Parmesan. Semi-hard lumi and coconut “cheese” is made from local seaweed (lumi) cooked with coconut milk.

INDIAN RESTAURANTS If you like Indian food, Fiji won’t disappoint! Most Indian restaurants will have a vegetarian section on the menu, with several lacto-vegetarian and vegan options (eggs are not considered vegetarian). Local favourites include: dhal (lentil soup), chana masala (chickpea curry) and vegetable curries.

Some great snacks include vegetarian samosa, bhajia (chickpea flour and greens fritter) and bara (coarse

lentil flour fritters). These are all vegetarian and can be made vegan if you ask for the dairy (and ghee) free version.

In bigger cities you’ll also find vegetarian dishes or vegetarianfriendly restaurants such as Chinese, Italian, Japanese, Korean or Mexican. On the HappyCow app you’ll find the best options near you. As a general rule, don’t be afraid to ask for changes to the menu as Fijians are particularly friendly and will do whatever they can to make you happy.

RESORTS If you’re vegan or vegetarian, it’s better to ask the resort ahead of time if they can cater for your needs. It’s also a good idea to remind them one week before your travel, as resorts in remote locations need to order the ingredients in advance.

When you get there, feel free to talk to the chef directly to let him/her

know what you eat (and don’t eat) and what you like. Some common dishes most resorts should be able to prepare are: dhal, chana masala, vegetarian curries, pawpaw curry, palusami with starchy crops, ota miti, roasted eggplant with coconut milk, stir-fried tofu with vegetables and vegetable fried rice or noodles (just make sure they’re egg-free if you’re vegan).

FARM TO TABLE If you’re heading to Taveuni, you can enjoy a delicious farm-to-table lunch at a jungle farm. At Bobby’s Farm (Nabogiono) and Gaiatree Sanctuary you can do a guided tour of the tropical farm and eat a delicious vegetarian meal prepared with the farm produce. It couldn’t be any fresher! Gaiatree Sanctuary serves a more upscale type of fusion cuisine; while at Bobby’s farm you’ll enjoy a home-cooked Indian and Chinese inspired meal.

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ADVERTORIAL

BEAUTIFUL Naturally

Dilo Oil reaches all three layers of skin

A world away, the South Pacific is one of the last remaining anchors of natural beauty. Our turquoise lagoons teem with colourful sea life and pristine rainforests luxuriant with tropical flora and fauna. Deep in the heart of this idyllic setting lies Fiji, an archipelago of 333 sun-kissed islands, and the birthplace of our Naturally Fiji skin and hair care.

Home to an ancient culture that lives close to nature, we didn’t have to go far for inspiration. Fijians have a centuries-old practice of using indigenous plants in healing and beauty rituals. Chief among them is the coconut palm, known in the South Pacific as the Tree of Life for the many gifts it yields.

Naturally Fiji products are hand crafted from natural ingredients sourced locally and around the world. These handpicked, raw ingredients are brought to a modern production facility, and this combination ensures an environmentally and socially sustainable product that delivers exceptional qualities to our customers.

Our production philosophy not only benefits small island communities by providing employment, but extends to minimising our carbon footprint by the sustainable harvesting of our natural ingredients, from their natural habitat, negating the dependence on irrigation and fertilisation.

Even today, virgin coconut oil is pressed throughout the remote outlying Fijian islands, to which plant and floral essences are added for a variety of uses: as an after-sun tonic, moisturiser and massage oil.

This nutrient dense wonder oil, rich in Vitamin E and powerful antioxidants, is at the heart of Naturally Fiji hair and skin care, to which we’ve added the essence of our natural ingredients.

The power flowers, the Black and White Orchid, are a rare bloom that’s

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been revered through the ages for its hypnotic beauty. Orchids have been found to reverse the signs of aging, calm inflammation and help increase cell turnover.

Known as “the tree of a thousand virtues”, the sacred oil of Dilo (Tamanu) has remarkable regenerative and curative properties. Tamanu oil is able to reach all three layers of the skin: epidermis, dermis and hypodermis, promoting the growth of healthy skin.

The Neem tree is known as the “Village pharmacy”. The medicinal and cosmetic properties attributed to Neem Oil are so numerous that they invoke disbelief! The seed inside the Neem fruit is rich in oil and is extracted and cold pressed for healing skin disorders.

We add Noni extracts which are considered one of the best treatments for most types of skin conditions as well as hair. It promotes healthy hair and scalp and contains antifungal and antibacterial properties.

Other ingredients like Tumeric, Rosemary Oil, Lavendar Oil, Honey and Sugar, add beneficial properties resulting in firmer and better skin tone for both oily and dry disposition.

The combination of our Virgin Coconut oil & natural extracts and oils, produce a potent fusion that is nourishing, moisturising, protecting and rejuvenating for skin and hair.

Naturally Fiji brings you “all the essences of Fiji” sourced from the finest pure coconut oil, orchid extracts and natural ingredients. Created with only one true objective: “Where the body meets the soul”

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ADVERTORIAL

INCENTIVES TO

BENEFIT INVESTORS

As a statutory organization, Investment Fiji operates independently as the facilitation arm of the Fijian Government, providing services and assistance to promote and stimulate investments and exports. Today the Acting General Manager of Investment Fiji, Mr. Ritesh Gosai talks about the recent new attractive business Incentives announced by the Fijian Government in 2019/2020 national budget and how investors can take advantage of sector-based incentives.

Incentives can and do affect investment location decisions and Fiji is offering a number of incentives aimed at increasing investor confidence, encouraging innovation, growth and investment. The 2019-2020 National Budget has provided a spectrum of opportunities for investors to invest in targeted sectors together with friendly tax incentives, creating a conducive investment environment. Investor confidence remains high with investments of substantial financial resources in infrastructure and capital projects both by Government and private sector thus, long term, forward thinking and pro-growth policies of the Fijian Government have made the strong growth of investments possible.

Government recognizes the importance of encouraging both local and foreign investors in Fiji to create employment, generate export earnings and provide income support for Fijians.

In order to support the private sector and provide a conducive environment for investment, Government in the 2019-2020 National Budget has maintained a low and attractive tax regime to support investments and streamline business processes through the adoption of digital platforms.

Investment activity has been a key driver of Fiji’s growth over the last 10 years. Private sector led investment made up the major component of total investments and is expected to increase further in the years ahead.

Government is currently in the process of reviewing the Investment Act, which will harness private sector investments in Fiji. To support expansion of businesses and entice new investments in Fiji, the 2019-2020 Budget has introduced a number of new taxation and customs incentives together with streamlining existing incentive packages. These incentives will support growth in the areas of tourism, manufacturing, transportation, housing, retirement villages & aged care, ICT and waste recycling.

More film productions can be expected in Fiji with the Budget announcement of an increase in Film Tax Rebate from 47% to 75% and 200% tax deduction to companies investing in camera

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and other filming equipment for audio-visual productions.

Other tax incentives include any private sector business investing in multi-rental housing development will be granted an income tax holiday for the entire duration of the Private Public Partnership (PPP) agreement with Government. A new incentive package will also be available to investment in retirement villages and aged-care facilities.

Government is also encouraging investment in the business of warehousing and storage facilities given the increasing business needs.

ICT investments will no longer have conditions on employing a minimum of 50 employees and exporting 60% of the services to qualify for ICT incentive.

Government is also streamlining updated information across government departments through its Digital Fiji App, which will see easy access to citizen information, business information and land information.

Given the announcement of incentives for waste management at Naboro Landfill, Warehousing & Storage facilities and Pharmaceutical Manufacturing, there is anticipation for some interesting projects to be

implemented by both locals and foreigners.

Investment Fiji will continue to strengthen facilitation of both local and foreign investment projects in the country, undertake investment and export promotion and provide after-care services.

Fiji offers significant investment opportunities across a number of sectors and the Fijian Government has gone to great lengths to create a stable and conducive business environment that encourages growth and development for investors.

To learn more about how Investment Fiji can assist your business, please visit our website www.investmentfiji.org.fj or contact us on (679) 3315988 or email info@investmentfiji.org.fj

ExPerIEncE

Discover Laucala Island and other luxury escapes on page 36. Photo LAUCALA ISLAND Travelling in style and comfort

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CONSERVATION

Conservation &

EDUCATION International Students travel to Vanua Levu for the experience of a lifetime Words & Images SARA CARLSON & MATTHEW NORMAN Natewa Bay in Fiji, the largest bay in the South Pacific, is known for its staggering amounts of healthy hard corals and its shores are home to some creatures found nowhere else on earth.

But at present not much is known about species abundance and diversity.

Through international conservation research organisation Operation Wallacea and local non-profit Nambu Conservation Trust, more than 170 students will take part in an expedition on the Natewa peninsula in a remote area of Vanua Levu, Fiji’s largest island. For a third year the expedition is bringing together students from countries around the world to spend two weeks in Fiji to learn about village life, help with habitat analysis, biodiversity surveys, and complete a reef ecology course. The students will have two nights in village homestays before trekking to a remote forest camp for forest habitat surveys, followed by a week at a marine camp on Natewa Bay shore.

Each homestay village gives students the opportunity to help prepare lovo earth oven dinners, learn something of mat weaving and coconut husking while getting a glimpse of Fijian village life. It is an experience that will stay with them for the rest of their lives, as well as providing direct economic benefit to the people living in those remote villages.

The Natewa peninsula may only cover around 3.1% of the total land area within the Fiji archipelago, but so far 59% of terrestrial birds, 33% of native terrestrial mammals and 35% of reptiles known to occur nationally have been found there. Many species found

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in this area are found nowhere else on earth. A portion of the organisms endemic to the Natewa peninsula includes 15 species of birds, 4 species of butterflies, and 26 species of trees.

With depths exceeding 1000m in some locations there is a wide range of habitats found in the bay, including barrier and fringing coral reefs, mangroves, deep pelagic areas and seagrass beds.

With the Nambu Conservation Trust, the marine portion of the expedition is run by Ocean Ventures Fiji, who have provided SCUBA training for several locals involved with the project.

Students and locals participate in a reef ecology course to learn about the common species of fish and invertebrates found in the bay, along with global and local threats to their populations and ecosystems. Students also learn about scientific methodology such as stereo-video surveys to determine fish abundance and diversity, and 3D modelling of the coral reefs.

They will be assisting in a project called the Allen Coral Atlas, which uses satellites to map and monitor shallow coral reefs on a global scale.

The long-term goal of the Nambu Conservation Trust, Operation Wallacea and Ocean Ventures Fiji is to establish protection in the form of a national park that extends from the mountain ridge to the reef. The biodiversity of this region possesses extremely high conservation value. Through conservation management techniques the Natewa Peninsula and Natewa Bay can maintain their ecological importance to Fiji and the global community.

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CULTURE

The

FIJIAN WAY How much do you know about Fijian traditions? Emma Castle catches up with Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort cultural ambassador Kini Sarai to find out more.

FIJIAN WEDDINGS The Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort hosts hundreds of weddings every year and Kini Sarai, the in-house cultural ambassador, is on hand to help guests understand how the Fijians say ‘I do’.

Kini says, “It is very rare to see arranged marriages in the Fijian villages now but we still try to observe the formalities after a young man informs his father of his intentions.

“A delegation from the man’s family will be sent to the young woman’s family to inform them of their daughter’s whereabouts. When the father has received the information and is happy with the approach the man has made, a date will be set for the official presentation to ask for her hand in marriage,” says Kini.

On the presentation day, the bride-to-be presents a whale’s tooth to the groom’s father and a wedding date is set.

On the day of the wedding, the groom’s side will prepare the feasting, organise what they will collect and present, and arrange for tribal narrators to create the Fijian equivalent of vows.

Kini says, “Gifts will include hand woven mats, a whale’s tooth, yams and dalo (also known as taro), drums of kerosene, bales and bales of floral clothes, and a lot of yaqona (kava).

“These would normally be used by the girl’s family to thank the guests from their side who came on the day to witness the marriage, thus keeping the family ties strong and, in many ways, renewed because many only come together on occasions like these.”

The obvious question out of all of this is: where do you get a whale’s tooth?

Kini explains: “We get them from dead

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whales that get beached on our shores.

Because the instances are very rare, the whale’s tooth has become the most valuable of all Fijian artefacts.”

Weddings will usually take place at either the bride or groom’s parents’ house.

FUNERALS Funerals are a community affair in Fiji, with guest lists numbering in the hundreds.

Kini says, “The protocols differ around the country. In some parts, everybody gathers on funeral day and the family prepares a big feast for everyone that comes to the funeral.

“In our district [Sigatoka on the Coral Coast], a funeral is a time to honour the mother’s side of the deceased’s family.

There are gifts presented to the mother’s side, and the de-ceased’s grandmother and great grandmother are honoured in front of everyone.

“The deceased is carried to the village green as a way of honouring their contribution to the land during their lifetime. On a normal day, nobody walks on the village green - only the chief’s family. It is always reserved for functions like weddings and funeral gatherings,” he says.

COMMUNITY LIFE Villages were originally formed because of safety in numbers. That is why you will normally have two or more extended families living together.

“Many of these alliances were built during our tribal war era and have continued to this day,” says Kini.

Things that will benefit the whole village are done communally. For example, putting in water pipes and building houses.

“We always give each other a hand because one day you will need that hand too. When fishing for feasts, celebrating

5 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT FIJIAN LIFE 1. DON’T TOUCH ANYONE’S HAIR OR HEAD The head is regarded as sacred.

2. WAIT TO SIT DOWN AT THE TANOA (KAVA BOWL) It is offensive to walk into a group of seated people and sit down anywhere. The elders will invite you to occupy a space in the sitting.

3. IT’S OK FOR VISITORS TO GET FIJIAN TATTOOS Fijian tattoos are now widely available but they were originally the mark of very high birth (majesty). Women of chiefly families had tattoos on their hips.

4. PLANTS AND ANIMALS HAVE SPECIAL MEANING TO FIJIANS Kini explains: “As we grow up, we are told of our identities. We are identified through our fish, a bird, a plant and fruit. When you visit someplace, the elders will ask you to identify yourself and you will begin by saying your name, your father’s name, your grandfather’s name, what tribe you come from and your role in your tribe. Straight away the elders will point where you sit in that gathering. There some places in Fiji where they are not allowed to eat fish if there are certain people from another tribe present in that gathering because they can suffocate from the fish. It is still very true today.”

5. SPECIAL DATES The annual Secondary School Athletics Meet is a massive day in the Fijian calendar. Visitors are welcome to attend and there is a very fun atmosphere.

annual church calendars, or when there is a death in a family, the whole village comes together to show their love and support for the grieving family.

When there is a wedding the whole village helps with food and cooking to cater for visitors. Nearly everything is done communally.

When it comes to religion, Fijians are predominantly Christian, Hindu and Muslim.

Kini says, “People of the same faith tend to live together. Christians live in the villages, and Muslims and Hindus live in settlements or in towns. We do our own things according to our faiths and there is respect for the different faiths.”

There is also a unique tradition that solves the problem of childlessness for people who are longing for a baby.

“Those that do not have children will have to ask their close relatives if they can bring up one of their children. If the family is OK with it, the child is then shared between the fami-lies. This still happens in the villages and is considered an investment in your old age. Taking old people to homes is still foreign to us which is why it’s considered important to have children. We make the time for our elderly because they cared for us when we were little,” says Kini.

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Pacific Luxury

FOR LESS in Fiji

Words and images BEN MACK Escaping to warm weather, blue water and incredible luxury are big reasons the South Pacific is such a popular holiday destination. That all can come with an equally high price – but doesn’t have to. Here are some picks for hidden gems that won’t break the bank – yet where the lodgings are no less luxurious than even the most envy-inducing Instagram images or glossy magazine spreads.

MATANGI PRIVATE ISLAND RESORT FIJI Here’s the thing about resorts on private islands: they can often be prohibitively expensive. Not here, however.

Simply getting to the award-winning (recognised by the likes of Conde Nast Traveller, Islands Magazine and the Travel Channel), adults-only resort is a bit of an adventure. After arriving at Taveuni Island’s Matei Airport, it’s about a 20-minute drive in a minibus to a boat landing. After wading out into the water to hop on the boat (be prepared to get a little wet!), it’s another 20 minutes across the crystal waters to the resort. But the journey is worth it: once you’re there, you might never want to leave.After all, with such options as dining under the stars, thatched-roof bures to sleep in that look they belong in a movie, and what might very well be the most indulgent spa in the South Pacific – not to mention more active offerings like scuba diving and snorkelling – why would you ever want to go anywhere else?

THE GEORGE HOTEL BETIO, KIRIBATI Just steps from the sea, The George’s regal name extends to its lodgings, too. Like a funky boutique hotel dropped into the middle of the South Pacific, no matter what tickles your fancy when visiting Kiribati, this place makes a great base from which to explore the coral reefs, World War II ruins, lively town life, or whatever else you feel like doing once you wake up from the large and comfortable beds. There’s also a newly opened “branch” located on Abemama Island that’s right on the water.

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LUSIA’S LAGOON CHALETS SALELOLOGA, SAMOA Sleeping in an overwater bungalow at least once is a lifelong dream for many. Not only can you do that here, but you can do so for less than even nonoverwater lodgings in many South Pacific locales.

Then there’s the sheer adventure of arriving: after landing in Samoa’s main airport on the island of Upolu, you board a ferry on the western side of the island at the Mulifanua Wharf to sail across the Apolima Strait to the island of Savai’i. From there, it’s a leisurely stroll down the narrow street, until you reach a collection of buildings on your left marked by a bright sign for Lusia’s.

There’s a lot to do while you’re here (check out the natural rock swimming hole, go for a snorkel in the sea beyond, and dine at the laidback restaurant, where a very friendly cat will sometimes jump up on tables and steal people’s food when they’re not looking). But a must-do: make sure you wake up early enough to see the sunrise.

Words can barely do it justice, but suffice it to say you’ll never forget it.

CHESTER REST HOUSE HONIARA, SOLOMON ISLANDS When you think about staying with monks, you might think of Italy or somewhere in Europe, not the Solomon Islands. But monks, in a manner of speaking, are who run the Chester Rest House in Honiara.

The rest house is staffed by volunteers from the Melanesian Brotherhood, a group of Christian men who take vows such as living simply, helping others, remaining celibate, and not drinking or chewing the popular betel nut. The Brothers are incredibly friendly, and can even offer to show you around places like the bustling central market (and offer for you to join them for dinner or even go to church). That alone might make for an unforgettable experience, but the lodgings themselves are among the best in Honiara, too. And the enormous, wraparound balcony has spectacular views of the city and cerulean blue water below.

WATERFRONT LODGE NUKUʻALOFA, TONGA An elegant seaside lodge, there aren’t a lot of rooms here – meaning it’s a whole lot quieter than a much larger hotel or resort might be. The building looks like a huge, European-style mansion, a throwback to when most people came to Samoa by boat instead of plane. The rooms are large with smooth hardwood floors, with seaview balconies perfect for simply relaxing and taking in the beauty of it all.

VAIAKU LAGI HOTEL FUNAFUTI, TUVALU The reviews speak for themselves; the phrase “best hotel in Tuvalu” appears often. But the best doesn’t mean the most expensive – and that makes it even better for visitors. The waterfront property built in 1993 has views of the sapphire-blue Funafuti Lagoon too pretty even for a postcard, all the modern amenities one would expect, and incredibly friendly staff. What else does one need for a perfectly relaxing holiday? Extra tip: be sure to stay on a Wednesday, when dinner is followed by traditional Tuvaluan dancing.

BARRIER BEACH RESORT SARAOTOU, VANUATU Away from the hustle and bustle of the capital of Port Vila on Efate, make your way to the southeast of the island of Espiritu Santo to step into another world – a world where luxury, relaxation, and unforgettable memories merge into one, and one where having enough money to enjoy life isn’t a concern. While good for families too, the resort is especially ideal for couples – the vistas you can drink in from the restaurant are simply magical. Of course, there is a downside: eventually, you’ll have to leave.

Fiji Airways flies direct to destinations throughout the Pacific from Nadi and Suva, including Kiribati, Samoa, the Solomon Islands, Tonga, Tuvalu, Vanuatu and more.

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An UltraLux Fijian

EXPERIENCE

By BECCA HENSLEY You can’t stay disgruntled for long in Fiji, where the all pervasive ocean, alive with blues, looks as textured as a Turkish carpet rolled out to meet the horizon. I’ve spent the morning on my private beach, located steps from my personal villa, somewhere near my own yoga platform and its adjacent swimming pool, in ruminative solitude, focused on artistic endeavor. With a kid’s size box of colored pencils, I’ve been at work attempting to re-create the vista I see before me. Like a bikini-clad Monet,

indigenous Oceanic population. So bellicose in ancient times that they garnered the nickname “Cannibal Islands,” today’s Fijians couldn’t be more affable. Kind hearted and down to earth, with a zeal for education and an intuitive desire to connect with others, Fijians generously adopt you into their way of life. “Bula!” cry out various staff members as I pass them on my bicycle.

“Bula, I exclaim back, trying not to crash into a coconut tree, while raising both arms into the air —the sometimes physical part of this classic greeting.

(Bula, an exuberant, multi-use word is

I’ve watched the light change, noticed the waters begin to glitter as faceted gems, seen the colorful birds and fat frogs come and go. Unlike Monet, I can’t capture it at all.

At Laucala Island, one of 300 variedsized islands that compose this archipelago nation, I had other options.

I could have ridden a horse along a craggy ridge, been ensconced in the cliffside spa, teed off on the undulating, oceanside greens or been submerged amid schools of rainbow-colored fish in the private island resort’s diminutive submarine.

Reproaching myself for wasting time at this all-inclusive hideaway (owned and operated as an eye-popping eco resort by the founder of Red Bull), I suddenly realize that being one with Fiji’s untarnished landscape is hardly misspent moments. I’ve smelled the flower-flecked wind, listened to the clapping hands of the waves, and felt the sun’s caresses on my (increasingly more) golden skin. Putting away my pencils, mounting the bike I’ve borrowed for the tenure of my stay, I pedal across some of Laucala’s 3,500-acres. Since my sketching didn’t work out so well, I think I’ll head out now to watch some other artists at work.

Fiji, a patchwork of cultures that includes European, Indian and Chinese, manifested in elements from food to festivals, has its foundation in its

most often uttered to say hello or when making a toast.)

After a few minutes, I reach my destination—the Cultural Village.

Perhaps the heartbeat of Laucala, it sits on a grassy plain, shaded by trees, and marked by three bure, a Fijian version of a home or hut. Wooden-beamed and thatched-roofed, these open air houses reflect the way of life in a traditional Fijian hamlet. Today, few of these all bure villages remain; most have been replaced by structures of painted, stacked concrete blocks, crowned with corrugated tin. At Laucaula, the Cultural Village holds three traditional structures: the Spirit House, Chief’s House and the Village Hall. Meant to be a quiet, educational alternative to jet skis or swimming pools, the village operates without pretense. It aims to immerse guests into Fijian sensibilities. During every guest’s stay, Lacaula Island offers a typical Fijian night, which brings staff and locals to sit among you for a family-style dinner, join in the singing and dancing and personally explain traditions, legends and history.

I approach the village, noting that it feels stuck in time. A man pensively whittles a dugout canoe and two women work diligently, side by side, on disparate crafts, shaded beneath the thatched rooftops. One woman weaves baskets, while the other wields a primitive looking

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Photo LAUCALA ISLAND

Photo LAUCALA ISLAND

Photo LAUCALA ISLAND

Photo ROYAL DAVUI ISLAND

paintbrush made from Pandanus seeds, swabbing it across a caramelcolored canvas. “Bula,” says the later, grinning widely. “What’s your name?”

When I tell her, she squeals with joy. “I am the one who made your tapa,” she says, pointing at her herself, and simultaneously beginning to unroll beautiful scrolls of tapa-cloth, a product made from the bark of mulberry or breadfruit trees. “I am your artist,” she says, explaining that she made the tapa scroll I received the night before as a gift from a friend, a beautiful map-like square etched with my name.

With pride, she shows me how she darkens the tapa cloth with milkycoffee-brown paint made from the koka tree to give it background color. It looks like layered, pressed paper from medieval times—or papyrus; thick, overlapping with fibers, and smooth to the touch. I watch as she takes black and chocolate-hued paint (gleaned from the mangrove) to stencil, smudge and stamp designs. She tells me that Fijians once wore clothing made from tapa—explaining that nowadays they don it only for special occasions— such as weddings. Forget sketching. By the time I bike back to my villa, I’m formulating a plan to move to Fiji, live in a bure and design tapa cloth wedding dresses for the rest of my life.

And, then, there’s kava. “It makes my face turn numb,” says my helicopter pilot as we chop over a dozen emerald gumdrops poised in the rumbling Delft-blue South Pacific en route to Royal Davui, another seductive, private island resort. He’s trying to explain the effects of kava, Fiji’s national drink, a slightly narcotic, but not mind altering, beverage, made from soaking a root in water. Denizens in Fiji knock it back all day long, much like the rest of the world puts away coffee. And, if you want to do a business deal, impress a village chief, or hang with the cool kids, you better be prepared to partake of this earthy tasting, cloudy libation. “Wait wait until you see how they make it” continues the pilot. I can tell by his face this will be good; he looks like a lunatic teenager. “They filter it with dirty socks!”

As it turns out, he’s wrong about the dirty socks—and on point about the mouth numbing results. I find kava leads to powerful dreams (not nightmares).

When I ask a Fijian about that, he just looks at me as if I were crazy. “I never

Photo ROYAL DAVUI ISLAND

between individuals—even tourists. At Royal Davui (an 8-acre island with 16 villas, owned by 6th generation Fijians), I sit cross-legged on the floor of their treehouse-like Banyan Tree restaurant as an honorary chief strains the liquid through a cloth filter. A woody aroma fills the air. I wait my turn, holding an empty coconut bowl in my hands. As each participant drinks before me, a ritual of clapping and shouts of “bula” follow. When my cup’s filled to the top, my kava friends clap—and I down it in one gulp. I don’t feel woozy or weird, just happy to be amid a crowd of new friends. The kava bonding ritual makes you part of the Fijian family.

Don’t leave Fiji without cruising to some of the islands that aren’t resorts. One Sunday, I sail across a lagoon to participate in a tiny village’s church service.

There, inside a simple wooden building, I listen to a choir of children croon and harmonize with such passion and verve, that I’m moved to tears. Another day I visit a school, and spend the morning reading to eager first graders, who later lead me around their village to show me their homes. (Fiji’s literacy rate stands at nearly 94% and its official language is English.) One day I travel to Taveuni to Bouma National Heritage Park to hike a mountain trail that leads to three stunning waterfalls. There local families picnic and frolic in the swimming holes beneath the falls, just as I do.

I end a recent trip to Fiji at Wakaya Club and Spa, another private island paradise with just a handful of rooms. At this onetime coconut plantation, I live the life of barefoot privilege. Though lazily in repose, I tour the farm, snorkel the pellucid lagoon, hike the mountain and tour fascinating archeological sites. Heady with James Michener visions of the South Pacific, I keep trying to sketch the panorama. When it’s time to go home, I haven’t succeeded with a likeness. As I skulk to the jeep, which will whisk me to the airstrip, I see a crowd gathering. Surrounding me, stands each person I’ve met on this island, from maids to waiters to hiking guides. Together they begin to sing Isa Lei, a traditional Fijian farewell song. The dulcet tune has been passed down for generations. Sorrowful and joyful simultaneously, it feels like love.

Who need a perfect sketch when you have the jubilation of Fiji in your heart?

dream,” he says. What’s true is that kava acts as a threshold to connection

Photo ROYAL DAVUI ISLAND

Photo ROYAL DAVUI ISLAND

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Romancing the

REMOTE

Vatuvara Private Islands Photos courtesy of VATUVARA PRIVATE ISLANDS Away from Fiji’s bustling towns, tourist hot spots and beaten tracks lies another world not often seen or heard of. A world of epic landscapes in the northern Lau archipelago where picturesque limestone rocks jut out of pure azure waters, where white powered sand stretch for miles and native birds sing rare tunes. What more could you add to that? Your own private infinity pool, the pampering and the awesome cuisine offered at the ultra luxurious Vatuvara Private Islands. It’s the stuff of which tropical daydreams are made, perfect for honeymooners and couples looking for celebrity style luxury and those seeking a bespoke VIP experience, as Naziah Ali discovers.

A luxury private island escape is the ultimate antidote to high paced, urban lifestyles. Something to allow us to soak into a Robinson Crusoe lifestyle without skimping on the style and luxe quotient.

Vatuvara Private Islands are masters at getting the priorities in perfect balance. Being able to frolic undisturbed on a beach is just as important as, say, a private massage in your own spa bure – preferably with a delightful cocktail close by.

We first laid eyes on Vatuvara Private Islands when we pressed our faces to the windows of the resort’s own Twin Otter aircraft as it descended upon Kaibu, the idyllic Lau island where the resort is located. Before us spread a breathtakingly beautiful vision perfect for postcards. It’s almost impossible to count the shades of blue that surround the islands we approach.

The sea changes from translucent hues of midnight blue to turquoise

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around the shoreline, identifying the calm shallows for swimming that slide into deeper water. Kaibu is a 800-acre exclusive island nestled in one of the world’s most pristine biospheres, home to tropical fish, turtles and migratory whales.

The five minutes it takes to fly over the circling reef and the beautiful villas perched on limestone rocks effect a mystical mental transformation. As the ocean breeze whisks through your hair when you step off the plane, and the sun shines just a bit brighter than you remember, and the harmonious sounds of a Fijian welcome song reaches your ear, the understanding dawns that here, in this lavish hideaway, your every wish will be someone’s command – and even some wishes you didn’t know you had. All this - the unspoiled beaches, the electric-coloured coral and fish flickering beneath the crystal water, the intriguing geological activity of eons – for now exists only for you.

The greeting party including Resort General Managers Rob Miller and wife Lynda, accompanied by singing staff, offer us welcoming flower garlands and welcome fresh coconut water. Rob takes us on a jeep tour before settling us into Vatu Villa, one of the three villas on the island.

Dubbed the most exclusive island in Fiji, Vatuvara Private Islands is owned

by Oakley founder Jim Jannard, who fell in love with Lau some twenty years ago when he came on holiday. He bought neighbouring Vatuvara Island before purchasing Kaibu from US fiberglass magnate Jay Johnson.

The Millers previously ran Wakaya Island Resort, then the epitome of Fijian luxury before moving to this remote enclave and spending the past five years realising Jannard’s dream of

creating the ultimate island getaway.

In just a few short years, Kaibu has been completely transformed from a deserted island into an outstanding getaway. Resort architecture exudes Fijian glamour sourced from a rich nature that has supplied unique and striking materials for the villas. Each of the islands expansive Villas affords a level of handcrafted detail by local artisans in a comfortably elegant interior designed and selected by the Millers.

The Millers have worked with nature instead of against it, resulting in awe-inspiring, pavilionstyle Fijian traditional designs that keep their cool throughout the year. They also knew how to keep the calm, scattering their landscape, and in the case of Delana Villa, the interiors with exquisite water features that delight the eye and soothe time-driven souls.

Valhalla, the main restaurant and bar, is at the centre of the island. Its soaring ceilings are constructed from much-admired native hardwood and there is a large wooden bar.

The professional kitchen was designed by Rob. Guests can opt to dine inside or out on the spacious patio to enjoy a gentle breath from the trade winds and the soothing sounds of the ocean. The menu has also been meticulously designed by Rob, who first put his foot in the luxury tourism door as a young chef. He is promoting a new concept called ‘Zero Mile Food’ to give an assurance that the food is sourced fresh and organic. The resort is one of the few in Fiji that is organically certified by both the US and Australian Organic Certification body. Guests get a taste of his rich coconut cake on arrival at the villa, awaiting with a chilled bottled of Tattinger. This decadent cake is moist and rich in flavor, with caramelised, shaved coconut topping.

Throughout your stay you enjoy delicious meals such as the Fijian ceviche called Kokoda, perfectly made New Zealand lamb (my fiancé says it’s the best he’s ever had) from artfully created menus. An additional building, Jim’s Bar and Grill sits close to the beach for casual dining and lounging.

The three villas on the island, Delana Villa,

Vatu Villa and Saku Villa, are comfortable one bedroom constructions that feature generous en suites, a kitchen, indoor dining and living room area, a dedicated villa spa, tropical courtyard and bionised heated pools, indoor and outdoor showers, outdoor entertaining areas, stocked bar, verandah, complimentary Wi-Fi, satellite TV, air conditioning and ceiling fans.

As in any good intimate relationship, these villas are discreet – just like the staff. Small in scale by way of number of villas, this allows staff to take the time to know guests’ special needs and desires and do their utmost to fulfill them.

They try to pre-empt them, firing your imagination with their own offerings. Their calling card is peace and quiet. Nevertheless, knowing the individual nature of guests, beyond seclusion usually lies a hankering for an element of escape and adventure.

The three villas clinging to the cliffs with pools that drip over the edge speak to this hankering.

But if that doesn’t answer the need for a little excitement, try the cliffside dining at Valhalla, edging out over the rocks.

The organic produce, fruit and vegetable gardens are sustainably incorporated into the islands’ lush landscape and are the main source of ingredients for meals during your stay. An island tour will show how young plants are propagated in the landscape nursery while more fragile tropical treasures are grown in the orchid house, carefully tended by staff under the guidance of Lynda, who has degrees in Conservation and Horticulture. As for coconuts – groves full of the graceful palms and their sweet nuts abound.

But the truth is that none of it will ever match the magnificence of the world beneath the surface of the sea. The basic reason for the existence of a resort on Kaibu is the phenomenal clarity of the water and intense colour of its reefs that harbour manta rays, turtles, whales, gaudy anemones, gem-like fish and so much more.

Little wonder Vatuvara Foundation was set up to protect the waters and have stewardship of the area. The islands are home to several rare

and endemic plant and marine species like the endangered giant clams, rare coconut crabs and host a variety of sea and shore birds. The Lau group of islands is also home to some of the most well-preserved reef systems in the world. Diving enthusiasts will be enchanted by the myriad of soft-coral colours and exotic marine life. Immediately off the beach, warm tropical waters and an abundance of aquatic life makes for unforgettable snorkelling experiences.

Waters beyond the reef offer pelagic fish, whales, dolphins and sailfish.

One of the most appealing spots to bask in this tropical glory is Vatuvara Island, known for its silvery beaches that stretch for miles without a soul in sight.

Just a 30-minute boat trip from Kaibu provides a front row seat to view an unspoiled landscape covered in mangroves and jungle foliage. Abundant wildlife calls Vatuvara and the surrounding waters home, including unusual crabs and rare birds.

A noteworthy, must-do visit is Yacata Island, a quaint Fijian village 20 minutes away across the water. It is home to most of the resort staff, who are happy for guests to visit the school, meet other villagers and enjoy some cultural activities.

There is always time to take advantage of the area’s great reputation with anglers aboard Houdini, the resort’s private boat.

The island also features its own organic fourhole golf course, with fantastic views of the Lau waters. A red prawn filled limestone grotto also exists on the island. Just ask one of the staff to show you the way there.

A fourth villa is in the works but even in its present glory, the island represents the ultimate status symbol – a romantic place to escape under the Fijian sun.

And if you really want privacy, you can hire the entire island. www.vatuvara.com Phone: +679 7075017

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LIKULIKU Island Resort Photos by HAMILTON LUND Likuliku Lagoon Resort is a captivating piece of paradise where beguiling natural beauty and a proud Bula spirit live hand in hand. A laid-back pace is interwoven into the everyday life of this luxury couplesonly resort. Whether you decide to spend your time lounging on the balcony of your overwater bure (villa), share a snorkeling adventure on the rich reef or hike together up the mountains, Likuliku is the perfect romantic getaway.

Waking up the first morning at Likuliku Lagoon Resort, the silence engulfed me – frankly a shock after the busy Suva life – and journeys through bustling airports. A few minutes later my ears attune and I hear the waves rhythmically washing the tide line at the edge of the beach. The sun slowly peers from behind the densely jungled mountains just as a delightful breeze tickles my skin awake.

There’s no one around and for a while I just bask on the daybed and soak up the quiet moment. That’s when it dawns on me that this is how the resort got its name. Likuliku in the local dialect means ‘calm waters’. In ancient times, the lagoon provided safe harbour for war canoes during rough weather. And for the first

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Likuliku Infinity Pool. Photos: HAMILTON LUND

Fresh, clean and creative cuisine from the finest local and international produce

Likuliku overwater

Deluxe Beachfront Bure plunge pool

time in a long time, I’m feeling calm and relaxed.

Ten overwater bures line up over the pristine clear blue of the lagoon.

They feature the thatched-roof traditional Fijian architecture, but with enchanting contemporary highlights: a glass floor that gives fascinating views of the marine life below; windows that can retract into walls to create an open-air pavilion to capture cooling sea breezes and wonderfully, give no views of anyone else. A ladder leads directly into the lagoon below where you can swim with the fishes as you wish. These bures allow guests to quite literally surround themselves with ocean and sky.

A boardwalk connects the overwater bures to the island, where the reception area, restaurant and bar are housed in a surprising boat shaped building. There’s also a large infinity pool, spa and gym. And did I mention the Masima Bar on its own island for sundowners?

All the resort’s 45 bures have the sustainable thatched-roof architecture of Fiji, woven from the leaves of the indigenous pandanus tree by local craftsmen. Local inspirations include traditional motifs stylised into textile patterns as well as hand carved wood accents on walls and light fixtures. All furniture use local hardwood timber and their coastal-cool all-white colour scheme features bed linens with touches of earthy toned traditional Fijian motifs on cushions and carvings on mirrors.

Furnishings and artifacts were created in partnership with the knowledge and skills of local craftsmen. The outdoor showers incorporate volcanic-stone masonry walls built by the highland people of Naitasiri. The magimagi (coconut sinnet ropes) that are artistically woven across the exposed rafters and columns throughout the resort are the handiwork of the people of Lau. But this meticulous attention to Fijian design doesn’t for a moment skimp on luxury. The beds are oversize, and villas come with their own pool decks.

The beachfront bures on land have terraces with plunge pools, hammocks and a private beachfront. To match the mood, a chilled bottle of champagne awaits guests on arrival.

Life in and around the resort presents a smoothly flowing coastal experience. It encourages laid back ease with a refreshing cocktail, a crisp white wine or an icy cold beer at the Masima bar after an exciting actionpacked day of scuba diving, jet skiing, deep sea fishing or swimming over coral reefs.

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ExPerIence

Private Island

PAMPERING

By RAJAN SAMI Photos NANUKU AURBEGE RESORT At Nanuku Auberge Resort on Fiji’s Pacific Coast, the ultimate luxury for guests is being whisked away to a small, uninhabited island in the middle of stunning Beqa Lagoon, one of the world’s top dive spots teeming with marine life.

Only a single couple or family at a time get exclusive use of this lush

On this glorious paradise, you are like a castaway, yet you have creature comforts like chilled champagne, running water, a flush toilet, and are being waited on hand and foot.

At lunch, guests have the option of making their own meals – fresh shrimp steamed in green bamboo tubes over hot coals on the beach and kokoda (the Fijian version of ceviche) where raw chunks of surface fish are cured in citrus, then bathed in fresh coconut

two-acre private island, which has a pristine wrap-around white sand beach with crystal clear turquoise waters.

But while unoccupied islands are a dime a dozen in Fiji and the South Pacific (only a hundred of Fiji’s 333 islands are inhabited), what makes Nanuku Auberge’s remote island experience particularly noteworthy is the unabashed and indulgent pampering you’ll receive.

Once guests are welcomed aboard the resort’s sporty yet comfortable jet boat (the “Nanuku 1”), it’s a refreshing 25-minute ride on mostly calm, open sea to Nanuku’s private island.

As you explore the idyllic island on foot with your resort “buddy” (guide), the boat captain and crew set about constructing a bamboo sun-hut with fresh coconut palm fronds from the island. They lay out beach mats and towels under its shade and this offers a cool respite between dips in the ocean.

The resort staff remain at a comfortable, unobtrusive distance throughout, ready to fetch you another drink, answer questions about the flora and fauna you encounter, or accompany you on an excursion – kayaking, paddle boarding, snorkelling, or jet skiing if you wish. (And yes, they’ll take photos for you. Because there’s no way you aren’t taking at least 100.)

milk and seasoned with tomatoes, onions and chillies.

Four hours can fly by quickly on the remote island, as an adventurous family from New York recently found out. Dan, Hillary and their two children, 8 and 14, loved the secluded island experience so much, they asked the resort if they could stay overnight, a first for Nanuku Auberge, which now offers it as an option to guests.

“The private island overnight was one of our most memorable experiences in Fiji,” they said, adding: “You feel like you are the only people on earth. We enjoyed exploring and the solitude. The staff had transformed the island to include tents, a bonfire, tables, and tons of food and beverages. We had a fabulous meal, they brought a guitar and we all sang songs and drank. As the sun went down, we went to watch the fish come in to feed and the hermit crabs scurry about. They taught us how to weave plates out of coconut leaves, how to open a coconut and roast it on a fire. They went spear fishing for dinner, and cooked an amazing meal. We woke to the peaceful sound of waves and a cool morning breeze. We had a breakfast which was just as incredible and fresh as the dinner.”

On the return trip to the mainland, guests are often given a tour of the

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enchanting Lalati Bay and nearby Beqa Island, with its thick, undisturbed coast of virgin rainforest, which resembles something out of Jurassic Park.

Guests are told tales of cannibals, the arrival of Christianity in the late 1800s, and how warring Fijian spirit gods split Beqa Island (which is known for its customary fire walkers) into two. You become an insider to Fiji’s history.

This remote island experience perfectly captures the essence of Nanuku Auberge’s overall offering, which combines luxury, culture, and adventure into soul-enriching experiences you will never forget.

A true boutique resort, Nanuku Auberge offers just 24 all-suite villas, along the wide sandy beach of its sprawling 500-acre oceanfront property.

There is a real sense of space – and spaciousness, allowing guests to unwind at their own pace and choose their level of activity.

Each of Nanuku Auberge’s enchanting, high-ceilinged beachfront villas is well-appointed and invites the breezy tropics in with architectural inspiration culled from traditional Fijian thatched dwellings. There’s plenty of tribal art and craft on display and each villa comes with its own beachfront plunge pool.

For the ultimate in lavish escapes, try Nanuku Auberge’s Owner’s Residence, a sprawling split-level penthouse on the resort’s highest point.

(Some staff call it “Vunikau” which means “Treehouse”.) It’s myriad rooms and spaces open onto the crowns of coastal trees and towering bamboo forest with majestic views of volcanic mountains, the expansive Pacific Ocean, and imposing Beqa and Yanuya Islands in the near distance.

Fijians are known to be some of the world’s warmest and friendliest people, and the Nanuku Auberge staff are no exception. Given the resort’s smaller size, limited number of villas, and favourable staff-to-guest ratio, the

interactions are truly grounded and genuine.

“The staff treats you like family, anticipating your every need, and “no” isn’t part of their vocabulary,” said Dan and Hillary. “In terms of activities, the staff is open to and encourages new adventures. They make you feel like you are a long lost friend instead of a short-term guest.”

The Auberge Resorts Collection, who manage the resort, have roots in Napa Valley, California and understandably, a strong food and wine reputation. This is something that carries across all Auberge properties including Nanuku Auberge, where a team of local chefs deliver creative, market-driven, fusion menus that change every few days based on what’s in season.

Guests are able to sample exotic island ingredients such as ota (wild fiddlefern), nama (seagrapes) and rourou (taro leaves cooked in coconut cream) to name a few, alongside more classic Western fare. The resort can cater to any food allergies or preferences. It’s all part of the bespoke experience here.

Located in Pacific Harbour on Fiji’s largest island Viti Levu, the highlylauded boutique resort is a two-hour car ride or 30-minute flight (Nanuku Auberge has its own airstrip) from Nadi Airport. The location puts Nanuku Auberge in the ideal position to offer an authentic small island experience with all of the conveniences of the mainland just outside the resort gates.

Known as the adventure capital of Fiji, Pacific Harbour is home to a number of adrenalin-inducing thrills such as world-famous shark dives, river rafting through the island’s tropical interior, and ziplining above rainforest canopy to name a few.

This is nature’s playground, and Nanuku Auberge Resort Fiji makes it possible for you to experience it in the most wildly civilised way.

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SPA

Spa

THERAPY in Fiji

By ROXANNE WILLIAMS Pacific Islanders have known about the therapeutic benefits of virgin coconut oil for eons.

Local wildflower remedies are also known to have healing properties and the two are often combined in many a Fijian spa ritual. Of course, the ocean itself delivers multiple health benefits too. For it is said that saltwater is the cure for all. Massage techniques such as the traditional Fijian ‘Bobo’ style have been passed down from generation to generation and are an ideal way to destress while on holiday. Do take time out and treat yourself to a rejuvenating mind, body and soul experience at one of the unique day spas listed below. From 5 star luxe to earthy indulgence, we’ve got you covered.

BEBE SPA - located at the Outrigger Resort on Fiji’s Coral Coast, the Bebe Spa sanctuary features eight private treatment rooms with open-air balconies, all facing the sea. Any spa ritual selected here is guaranteed to be the utmost in high class indulgence. Bebe’s highly skilled therapists use both Pevonia Botanicals and Pure Fiji products. To do; head next door to Kalokalo, a hilltop tapas bar with panoramic ocean views and superb cocktails.

HEAVENLY DAY SPA – the awarding winning Heavenly Spa by Westin™ at Denarau is accessible to guests staying at either the Sheraton or Westin and accommodates day visitors. Each secluded spa treatment room is set amid lush tropical gardens.

Your sophisticated Heavenly Spa journey begins with their signature serenity welcome to ease any tension and awaken the senses. Hint; try the Hydra Marina facial for lasting hydration and a glowing complexion.

THE MANA SPA – The word ‘Mana’ means magic in Fijian language and you can expect to experience just that during your treatment here. Situated within the stunning Mamanuca Island group at Mana Island Resort, this spa is a real delight. A tranquil energy permeates the place and time simply slips away. A treatment at Mana Spa leaves one feeling lighter, brighter and ultimately refreshed. Tip; the Fijian Bobo massage here is next level amazing.

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Tokoriki Island Resort and Spa

Tokoriki Island Resort and Spa

Koro Sun Rainforest Spa

TOKORIKI ISLAND RESORT & SPA – Tokoriki is Fiji’s number one adults only resort thus their spa is a peaceful experience that favours romantic encounters. Boasting four individual couples’ treatment bures that all feature gentle falling water over freestanding volcanic rock walls. Try; an ‘Indulgence Package’ that combines a one-hour relaxing couples massage followed by a decadent Moet & Chandon 3 course dinner in your own villa!

MAKARE SPA AT MUSKET COVE RESORT - The name ‘Makare’ describes clear calm waters which is apt since a calm energy is truly embraced within the spa walls here. Their traditional Makare Facial is simply divine, cleansing minerals, soothing fruits, and nourishing plant extracts are used to cleanse, refine, restore and hydrate the skin. Makara Spa is adjacent to the Musket Cove marina. Sail up, anchor down & book in quick.

THE RAINFOREST SPA AT KORO SUN RESORT – What a stunning tropical setting! The three rainforest treatment bures are lit by lanterns and decorated with giant ferns. There’s many specialised treatments on the menu that utilize sublime ingredients like organic papaya, virgin coconut oil, rich aloe and cooling cucumber.

Cocoon yourself in their signature Banana Leaf Body Wrap under the forest canopy and leave feeling refreshed, balanced and no doubt likely to return. A truly native Fijian experience.

VALENI SASAUNI SPA SANCTUARY – Nestled into volcanic cliffs, this award- winning spa overlooks the Koro Sea from the majestic Namale resort.

Spanning 10,000 square feet this expansive spa features a host of ocean-view treatment rooms.

Enjoy the sea breeze and the gentle sound of waves. It’s a leading luxury spa in Fiji with plenty of choice when it comes to R&R options including a hydrotherapy room, aromatherapy pools and a waterfall massage to revitalise your life.

THE OCEAN SPA AT MATANGI PRIVATE ISLAND RESORT - Located on gorgeous Tavenui Island the Ocean Spa sits gracefully upon the water’s edge. Picture perfect! The treatments intertwine traditional Fijian massage and authentically crafted Fijian therapeutic rituals with the purest products available. Features two couples’ treatment rooms with a Vichy styled tropical rain shower and a unique over-water deck. Incredible and memorable.

Bebe Spa

ESSENCE OF FIJI REJUVENATION CENTRE – Just 3 minutes from Nadi airport, the centre allows travellers in transit to begin or end a Fijian holiday in the most relaxing way. There’s on-site shopping, a great café and a supervised children’s play area here too. Convenient, indulgent and affordable.

Includes free airport transfers.

BARAVI SPA – if you are fortunate enough to find yourself nearby to Yasawa Island Resort ensure to book into Baravi. The spa recently received a commendable recognition at the 2016 World Luxury Spa Awards. Sure, it’s epic beachfront location is inspiration enough to visit, however, it really is their stand out range of healing therapies and beauty treatments that take the proverbial cake.

Mana Spa

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Luxury

The

KOKOMO Difference

By RAJAN SAMI The devil, it’s said, is in the details.

That’s certainly the case at Fiji’s newest billionaire island, Kokomo, in the still off-the-radar (and therefore pristine) Kadavu chain of islands in the country’s south.

When it came to sourcing artwork for the luxury island resort, Kokomo’s Australian property magnate owner Lang Walker spared no expense, commissioning Sydney-based Chris Kenyon, a contemporary impressionist, to live and create original artworks out of a beachfront studio on the island for a year. The resulting 234 paintings that adorn both private and communal spaces brilliantly capture the very essence of Kokomo (the effervescent colours of the ocean, the island’s crisp air and the light as it changes from dusk till dawn). Since the resort opened in late March, guests have been asking to buy the paintings, which are not for sale.

Some three years and AU$100m in the making, it’s Kokomo’s commitment to doing things right which shines through. Like Kenyon, head architect Keith Lambert and interior designer Philip Garner resided on the 140acre island for weeks’ at a time while designing the resort. The resulting contemporary Fijian-inspired architecture and chic, neutral interiors blend seamlessly with the island’s lush and undisturbed natural environment, almost like the resort’s always been there, the only giveaway being the young, newly planted trees and scrubs in its landscaped gardens.

ZERO-MILE FOOD Kokomo’s commitment to creating unique gastronomic experiences,

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sourcing and using local and seasonal produce from the island and surrounding islands is the basis of its fine dining experience.

Hot off a three-year stint on another Fijian billionaire island (Red Bull founder Dietrich Mateschitz’s Laucala in the country’s north) young globetrotting Australian executive chef Anthony Healy is spearheading Kokomo’s efforts to grow much of its own fresh produce on 5.25 acres of beautifully-laid out organic gardens.

Some two hundred and fifty freerange egg laying chickens are being raised in what is arguably the bestlooking chook house in all of the South Pacific. Meanwhile, even the cinnamon wood for the garden’s overpath trellises that are covered in passionfruit vines have a boldfaced provenance. They come from Mel Gibson’s private Mago Island in Fiji’s Lauan archipelago, where the resort also sources beef in addition to the Tasmanian Cape Grim beef and Robbins Island wagyu on its menus.

Given that the Great Astrolabe Reef, the fourth largest in the world is on the resort’s doorstep, seafood is bountiful and the resort’s own fishermen return almost daily with the likes of coral trout and the deep sea tuna that frequently ends up in the best sushi joints from Tokyo to New York.

“We have an ambitious plan to have the best food program in Fiji,” says Healy, which the resort hopes to achieve by focusing on fresh produce and quality. Kokomo guests will soon be able to pick their own fresh herbs, collect free-range eggs and meander through the farm gardens to the hilltop heli-pad where Healy will offer cooking lessons.

Building on classical fare that doesn’t

push guests too far out of their culinary comfort zones, Healy is gently incorporating traditional Fijian cooking methods and ingredients. Meats are lightly cooked sous-vide then finished off in the centuries-old method of roasting over cinnamon coals that’s still widely practiced in Fijian villages today. Island stalwarts like the rootcrops cassava (manioc) and dalo (taro) are wrapped up and steamed into delicious desserts served with coconut sugar syrup. “Guests are unsure at first,” says Healy of these new ingredients and dishes, “But we’ve not had any complaints so far.”

THE KOKOMO DIFFERENCE At the resort’s reception hangs a framed black and white photograph of Prince Edward (looking a lot like his nephew Harry) on the island’s white sand beach in 1983 (some 13 years after Fiji gained independence from British colonial rule), as a friendly Fijian couple makes conversation with him. For generations of travellers to Fiji, the country’s main appeal beyond sun, sand and sea has been the genuine warmth and incomparable

generosity of its people. The Kokomo staff are no exception.

At breakfast on our second day, the Dive Centre Manager Charlie comes to see us about an afternoon excursion to explore the Great Astrolabe Reef, one of the world’s most beautiful oceanic environments. One of us wants to dive, the other wants to snorkel and so he offers to send a guide to accompany each of us. We spend a lazy morning and are subsequently late to lunch, where our server Shiva puts us at ease, saying she’s let the dive crew know we’re running a little late. A 20-minute boat ride later and my travel companion is exploring underwater grottos with Dive Master Akuila while I snorkel accompanied by Viliame, taking in the exotic coral gardens and a plethora of brightlyhued tropical fish. There’s a beautiful, mid-sized grey reef shark that catches my eye, it moves gracefully through the water with minimum effort. We return feeling incredibly well looked after throughout the whole experience.

At breakfast on our final day, the neighbouring couple with a young infant expresses interest

in watching the Mayweather vs McGregor fight and the season seven finale of Game of Thrones.

Reservations Manager Nathan returns minutes later having sorted out the first; and promises to look into the second, which will require a bit more work. Turns out you can have it all at Kokomo: a remote edge-of-the-earth experience with some, if not all, of the trappings of the modern world.

Mid-air on the return seaplane flight to Nadi, it suddenly dawns on me that I’ve left my wallet with my house keys in the room safe back in the resort villa. For once I don’t panic. Upon landing, I send the resort an email to try and coordinate its delivery via courier to me in the Fijian capital Suva. The very next morning I get a call on my cell phone; there’s a Kokomo staff member with the wallet at my front door. www.kokomoislandfiji.com @kokomoislandfiji

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SAMOA

Otherworldy

SAVAI’I

By BEN MACK Images SAMOA TOURISM AUTHORITY

I awoke in a tree. Even stranger, it was the nicest place I’d ever woken up.

This requires some explanation. In the tree was also a bungalow, which just so happened to be hanging above spectacular turquoise water.

A gentle breeze carried just the slightest tinge of salt air and a brilliant sun shone overhead, giving everything a shimmer as if it were dusted with glitter. Nothing felt real.

Then again, pretty much all of Savai’i feels otherworldly. The largest island of Samoa, it’s so beautiful it can sometimes feel overwhelming – especially because it’s not hard to feel like you’re all alone, since it has far fewer people than the neighbouring island of Upolu (where most visitors go since that’s where Samoa’s main international airport is sited).

Yet as tranquil as Savai’i is, there’s another word that describes the island perfectly: adventure.

Being a South Pacific paradise, there’s no shortage of adrenaline-soaked activities: snorkeling, diving, fishing, swimming or boating in the clean, warm waters or more land-based activities such as hiking, biking and exploring. Or simply sit somewhere in the shade of a palm tree or in one of those bungalows and watch the world go by. You really can’t go wrong no matter what you decide to do.

Even just getting to Savai’i can be an adventure.

The MV Lady Samoa III may not be a luxury cruise liner, but the ferry is a good value at only 12 tala (less than 10 Fijian dollars or five US dollars) oneway for an adult ticket. The journey takes about an hour from the ferry terminal in the west of Upolu, not far from the airport. It seems that sometimes police will even give you a ride for free if they’re already heading in that direction – it happened to me. The ferry takes you to Salelologa in eastern Savai’i and is it’s a fantastic way to meet incredibly friendly locals. Samoa is known for friendliness and if you’re lucky, someone might even offer to show you around or even invite you to stay with them.

On Savai’i there’s a temptation to simply pick a direction and start adventuring. There’s nothing

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Surfing

Fuipisia falls

Fuipisia falls

To Sua Trench

wrong with that, after all, Savai’i has the largest continuous patch of rainforest in Polynesia. The Central Savai’i Rainforest covers a large part of the island’s interior and encompasses more than 100 volcanic craters. But it’s well worth the effort to make it to Afu Aau Falls in the southeast. Not far from the equally stunning Tafua Rainforest Preserve, the waterfall looks like something out of a science fiction film, it really has to be seen to be believed. It’s usually not too crowded, meaning there’s a good chance of having the place all to yourself.

Back to that tree I woke up in. Lusia’s Lagoon Chalets are just a short walk of about a kilometre from the ferry terminal at Salelologa, but feel like another planet. There are overwater bungalows similar to the ones seen in ultra-luxury resorts in the Maldives or Bora Bora. But unlike Bora Bora, bungalows at Lusia’s can be booked for less than 130 tala per night, even during a holiday as it was when I visited.

As its name might suggest, Lusia’s is run by a kind woman named Lusia who, it just so happened, used to work in the same building back in New Zealand that I lived in. Also wandering around the property is a curious tabby cat that seems to love nothing more than jumping up onto people’s laps or even joining them on the table if there is a meal going fromn the open air kitchen. Speaking of which, the oka – fresh fish in coconut cream – with cucumber is highly recommended and pleasantly cool on a hot day.

While Savai’i may offer almost unlimited outdoor adventure possibilities, the truth is it’s incredibly tempting to spend your entire visit solely at a place like Lusia’s. But a journey southwest to the Alofaaga Blowholes shouldn’t be passed up. Waves breaking against the lower end of a series of rock tubes formed by lava that connect to a flat clifftop along the shore send water blasting up, creating spectacular fountains of spray. It really is an awe-inspiring sight, just be careful because the rocks around the blowholes are extremely slippery.

To indulge in some Indiana Jones-style fantasies, there’s the Pulemelei Mound. Thought to be the largest and most ancient human-made structure in Polynesia, no-one really knows why it was first built in the middle of thick jungle sometime between 1100 and 1400 AD, or why it stopped being used two or three centuries ago.

But what is known is that at the top of the pyramid-like structure constructed of natural basalt stones to about 12 metres high are some of the best views on Savai’i.

Given the density of the surrounding rainforest, you might even discover something that archaeologists haven’t found yet!

With no major cities and the idea of traffic jams absolutely alien, a trip to Savai’i really does feel like taking a break from the world. It’s another world completely – one where sleeping in trees is as magical as a swim by starlight.

Fiji Airways flies direct to Samoa on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays.

Upolu Papaseea Sliding Rocks

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ESCAPE

Adventures in

MOMI BAY

By ROXANNE WILLIAMS Photos FIJI MARRIOTT RESORT MOMI BAY The kind of traveller who wants water sports, excellent food and megawatt Fijian sea views can get it all at the Fiji Marriott Resort at Momi Bay. It is five star sophistication blended with Fiji’s calming tropical energy. Located in Momi Bay on the mainland of Vitu Levu, this stunning coastal front property is enveloped by rolling green hills and the vast expanse of the South Pacific Ocean.

Stoke your cuisine curiosity and water loving sense of adventure and read on…

WATERSPORTS GALORE Momi’s turquoise blue lagoon is ideal for gentle aquatic activities. Enjoy a leisurely swim in the refreshing sea, commandeer a kayak and explore the surroundings or collect a stand-up paddleboard from the friendly (and funny) team at the onsite Water Sports Centre and glide along in the protected lagoon area.

For a dose of adrenaline there’s exciting jet ski tours, offshore scuba diving trips to pristine coral reefs and world class surf breaks super close to the Marriott. Radical waves such as Cloudbreak, Namotu Lefts and Wilkes Pass are just a 15-20 minute boat ride from the resort.

The surf guides are extremely professional. Uri, the local surf guru/ ex-Navy Seal, takes his role as instructor/safety advisor very seriously.

For those more inclined to kick back and relax in classy comfort, the resort also features three distinctively luxe pools. The one adjacent to the Lagoon House eatery is family friendly and has a swim up bar setting.

FANTASTIC FOOD: The Fiji Marriott Resort Momi Bay has all bases covered when it comes delicious meals.

There are three excellent restaurants and each will certainly have a ‘foodie favoured’ dish to cater to any cravings and the ambience to match any mood.

FISH BAR Fish Bar is properly deluxe. Its prime location boasts panoramic views overlooking the ocean and the ‘adults only’ infinity pool is right alongside. Fish Bar has a contemporary look and feel that honours island life with a casual yet superbly elegant design. The seafood fare on the menu includes fresh reef fish expertly prepared with selected sides of nourishing local vegies or a zesty salad; mouth-watering daily

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crayfish catch; and a delicate ceviche with a tropical coco lime touch. For those not huge fans of seafood, Fish Bar also features prime rib steak dishes, marinated duck delights and plenty of others on trendy and inventive flavour packed plates. Book a table at sunset to experience that vivid ‘sea meets horizon’ effect.

LAGOON HOUSE Lagoon House has an elegant presence along the salt water lagoon for coastal casual dining done right. The tables inside are well spaced and there’s even a few sweet seats in the sand outside. The food is congruent with a Mediterranean theme; baby octopus salads, roast vegetable arancini, Italian pizza, fresh pasta and a selection of appetising tapas to share. Children will easily find menu favourites to devour here.

GOJI RESTAURANT Goji Restaurant is the Marriott Fiji’s main dining space while retaining a sense of stylish intimacy. A table with an over-water lagoon view complete with tropical fish is ideal for a a decadent breakfast. breakfast. After ordering a rich coffee blend, there is a choice of gourmet omelettes, amazing pastries, a drool worthy pancake station, huge fruit platters and an exotic Asian tastes section. Come evening at Goji, there’s an extensive a la carte menu and themed buffet evening every night of the week.

LUXURY ROOMS: The five star over water bungalows are a huge drawcard for visitors to the Fiji Marriott at Momi Bay. Peaceful, private and expertly designed, the stilted bungalows are ideal for honeymooners and admirers of unique resort suites. Wake up, scan a glorious sea view, walk directly down the deck stairs and dive into the crystal lagoon.

The deluxe ocean bures also have classy furnishings, heaven-sent king bed and each its own secluded white sand beach just a few steps from the room.

The Fiji Marriott at Momi Bay takes the proverbial cake when it comes to a luxury getaway that incorporates the top three South Pacific holiday dreams; beachfront bures, water sports galore and first class modern cuisine.

ADVENTURE

Explore the Organic island of Cicia on page 68. Photo STEVEN LYON

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NATURE

Sea

SQUIRTS Words and images by PADDY RYAN Most people have never heard of ascidians, except perhaps by their other name, sea squirts. But even then, unless you are a biologist or a diver you could be forgiven for not being aware of their existence. While it may be hard to believe when you look at the photos, sea squirts are chordates, distantly related to us. When I was a zoology student one of the questions on the final was “An ascidian is a sloppy bag of guts that has no right to be called a chordate – discuss”. I was all over this, having been fascinated with these beasties ever since I first heard about them. As adults they do indeed resemble a sloppy bag of guts that has no right to be called a chordate, but it is in their larval stage that their affinities are revealed. Most ascidians have an “ascidian tadpole”.

And yes, it does kind of look like a tadpole, only significantly smaller.

During this stage it possesses four distinct chordate characters, which, thankfully, we won’t go into here.

After ascidian egg and sperm unite, the ascidian tadpole develops. This stage is extremely short-lived, typically less than a day. The young ascidian heads to the bottom where it sticks, head first, to suitable substrate and then undergoes an extraordinary metamorphosis. Within a matter of hours, the tail is completely resorbed, the gut restructured, and the “brain” is broken down. Then the entire body is rebuilt. Important features of the new morph are an inhalant siphon (the branchial siphon), an exhalant siphon (the atrial siphon) and a very large, taking up most of the barrel-shaped body, pharyngeal basket. This is one of those chordate features mentioned above and is essentially a bunch of

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Ascidians and soft corals, Puerto Galera, Philippines

Perophora modificata and Clavelina moluccensis Raja Ampat

Polycarpa aurata and Clavelina moluccensis, Raja Ampat, West Papua

gill slits. While all this rearrangement is going on, the sea squirt is also producing a protective outer coat, the tunic, which gives them their other common name, tunicate.

From this moment on, the tunicate lives a very simple life style. It sucks water into the pharyngeal basket which is lined by a very fine mucus net that is continuously manufactured by the animal. Small food particles are trapped by the net which is rolled up near the oesophagus and passed into the digestive tract where trapped food is digested. This is a tough way to make a living and they must pass a lot of water through the net to gain sustenance. It has been estimated that each ascidian must process one body volume of water per second throughout its life. This seems extraordinarily high to me but then I’m not a tunicate expert.

Once the water has been filtered, it passes out through the exhalant siphon.

Tunicates come in three different types. There are solitary ascidians, which, as the name suggests, are single individuals that live on their own (although many others may live

nearby). Colonial ascidians live in colonies which are typically founded by one individual which then reproduces asexually. It does this by producing “stolons” in much the same way a strawberry plant proliferates through a garden. There may be tens or even hundreds of thousands of cloned individuals occupying large areas. The advantages are manifest. Even if there is a predator that can by-pass any chemical defenses there are simply so many individuals that some will always survive and can rapidly replace their unfortunate identical twins. These guys also reproduce sexually. Compound ascidians round out the body type.

These colonies are made up of individuals which all possess their own inhalant siphon but share a common exhalant siphon. Some are even perched at the end of a long stalk.

The siphons are essential for ascidian survival and they are protected. Nerves on the rim of both siphons detect the presence of potential intruders or food particles that are too large and animal “coughs”.

Clavelina

Diademnid species, Raja Ampat, West Papua

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NATURE This produces a powerful jet of water that takes the offending object well away from the tunicate. Apparently, most tunicates produce biochemicals that discourage predation. But biologists have found that one sea squirt species self-eviscerates. If pinched for a while by a researcher, as it would be if bitten by a fish, it expels most of its digestive tract. After doing so it remains in the “pinched� form for several days and then resumes feeding as if nothing has happened.

The entire gut is regrown in days. Interestingly, the expelled gut is apparently unpalatable to predators and it is hypothesized the intention of the whole exercise is to drive away nibbling fish. This all seems very drastic and it is not yet known how many other tunicate species do this.

And this brings us back to the tunic, which grows as the animal gets bigger. In solitary species, the tunic is tough and leathery. Amazingly it is made of cellulose. Cellulose is typically characteristic of plants and to find it in an animal raises some interesting evolutionary questions.

Cellulose is tough and difficult to digest for most predators so would seem to be an adequate defense on its own.

Clavelina detorta on sponge Raja Ampat

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Unidentified colonial ascidian, Raja Ampat, West Papua

Polycarpa aurata Raja Ampat, West Papua

But many sea squirts bolster their defenses in extraordinary ways.

Vanadium, niobium, lithium and tantalum are all exotic and rare elements.

By some alchemy sea squirts can concentrate these substances by orders of magnitude above the level in the surrounding seawater. In the case of vanadium, it is concentrated ten MILLION times above the concentration in sea water. How, or even why, they do this is not known for sure, but it is believed to deter predation. In the case of the vanadium, it must be stored in an environment with low acidity – a pH of 2 or below (to put

possess what are essentially “jaws” that can trap small invertebrates. There are around 2,000 tunicate species and they come in every colour of the rainbow.

As if all this isn’t enough to at least pique your interest in these extraordinary distant ancestors here’s another useless piece of information.

Every few hours they reverse their blood flow, veins become arteries and vice-versa. Once again, we have no clue as to why they do this. And, in case you are wondering, yes, some cultures do eat them. In Japan and

that in perspective our stomach acid has a pH of around 2). Any predator eating the tunic will not only get a mouth full of vanadium but also a burst of sulphuric acid - yum. Ascidians are currently being studied for a variety of potential medical usages including anti-cancer and anti-viral. But perhaps the most interesting is that tunicates can “fix” cellular abnormalities over generations. According to Wikipedia if we can learn how they do this we may be able to regenerate “compromised human organs”.

Tunicates are found in all the world’s oceans but most of them inhabit shallow water. Indeed a few species require it. Several tunicate species, like reef-forming corals, host symbiotic algae inside their tunic. In these species the tunic is mostly transparent which allows light to travel to their tiny guests. The algae get a safe place to live and it is believed the sea squirt gets lunch. Some of the deep-sea tunicates are a little more sinister and

Korea, they eat Halocynthia roretzi, the sea pineapple in common parlance.

Apparently, they produce an alcohol, cynthiaol, which imparts an interesting flavor. In Korea it is usually eaten with Kim Chi whereas in Japan it is paired with sake. Tasting anything with those pairings would be problematic for most of us. And finally, some species are being researched as a source of biofuel, the cellulose in the test can be fermented to form ethanol.

Next time you go snorkeling or diving, wherever you are, keep an eye out for these venerable, distant relatives. They may just be a “Sloppy bag of guts that has no right to be called a chordate” but you should give them respect, they have been here for around 500 million years and will probably still be here long after we have left.

Five different ascidians, Raja Ampat, West Papua

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SPORTS

What motivates you to

MOVE?

By MARITA MANLEY

We all know that we should be exercising regularly.

We’ve often heard the horrifying statistics about lifestyle diseases. But finding the motivation to start exercising regularly can be difficult.

Running or walking is one of the easiest ways to get started as it can be done anywhere - all you need is a spare 30 minutes, a decent pair of shoes and for me and most women a decent sports bra!

The Island Chill Suva Marathon is both a competitive race and a social event that sees runners come in from around the world to experience Fiji’s capital city in a unique way and gets us all moving, helping in a small way to combat the rise in lifestyle related illnesses.

From humble beginnings in 2014 with 250 runners, the Island Chill Suva Marathon has grown each year and on Saturday 27 July 2019, we hope that a record-breaking 2,000 people will turn out to run, jog, or walk one of the various races. Whether that’s the full 42.2km marathon, the 21.1km half marathon, the team event, where 4 runners each complete a quarter marathon with their times added together, or the fun run, will depend on each person’s individual fitness, personal goals, and motivations.

More and more studies are showing that running and walking are not only good for your physical health, but also for your mental health. The good news is that you don’t need to be a marathon runner to benefit. You just need to take that first step.

We all find our motivation in different places. Flagship events like the Island Chill Suva Marathon can help beginner and experienced runners alike, giving everyone something to aim for. For some, entering a race sets them a challenge, something to work towards, to prove to yourself that can do it. For others, the event is an opportunity to raise money for a charity, driving people to train and to push themselves harder. Save the Children and Walk On Walk Strong Kids are the official event partners and can provide ideas on how to raise funds for the amazing work they do - a fantastic motivator!

For some participants it can be more personal. There’s lots of anecdotal evidence of running helping people overcome mental health issues from grief, to depression or anorexia. And, for some, it’s simply about taking part, being out on the streets amongst friends and family, and in the midst of a big event.

So, in an effort to inspire all of you reading we asked some regular Island Chill Suva Marathon runners what motivates them to get moving. We’re delighted that this year, Binesh Prasad, holder of the national record for the marathon, is coming home to Fiji to run along with wife Nadia who is

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What?

The Island Chill Suva Marathon When?

Saturday 27 July 5:30am Full Marathon (42.2km) 6:30am Half Marathon (21.1km) 7:00am Team Marathon (4 x 10.55km) 7:15am Quarter Marathon (10.55km) and 5km Where?

Race number pickup at Holiday Inn on Friday 26 July Race start/finish at the Albert Park Pavillion on Saturday 27 July How? Register now at www.suvamarathon.org

Top tips?

Set a goal, but be realistic. The easiest way to start running is by walking and running at intervals. Walk for 100m, then run for 100m, and repeat. If you’re not already training for a marathon or a half, aim for a team or quarter marathon (10.55km) or the 5km fun run in 2019 and come back in July 2020 for a longer distance! A marathon distance is a long, long way and requires months of proper training. Always seek advice on how to train for full and half marathon distances.

a former French Olympic athlete. And as you’re leaving the plane look out for Avikash or William on the way out - as Fiji Airways stewards they still manage to juggle a busy schedule with their regular training runs.

‘Running is therapy for my soul. It is where I feel powerful, fearless and free. It is where I build a better version of me.’ Karen Krishnan, Fitness and wellness coach

‘For me running is the best form of exercise.

When I am running I notice so much more of my surroundings. I run a lot when I am on lay-overs so I get explore and see exciting places that you can’t get to in vehicles...a good example is Hong Kong with all its mountain trails. My family motivates me to keep fit and stay healthy. I want to stay fit to be active with my kids especially doing outdoor stuff with them and I want to be on this earth to see them grow old. So many people in Fiji are dying young leaving a young family behind just because we can’t control what we chuck into our mouths and we don’t move around enough or exercise.’ William Simpson, Fiji Airways Steward

‘The good endorphins after the run are a great motivator. I love the feeling of being out in the open, feeling the wind in your face. Whenever I feel tense or blah..a run just shakes out all the tension.’

Gina Houng Lee, Suva Marathon Club President

‘Running is about a lot more than just being in shape. I run because it provides a great mental escape during the run. Running is a great stress reliever, and this motivates me to become more consistent and also helps me to achieve a healthy lifestyle’. Sharmila Lata, Police Officer and Lethal Runners Club

‘Running gives me peace of mind, a sense of clarity and an instant buzz that makes me dance while running! Sometimes I worry I’ll trip over! LOL It’s also about challenging myself and pushing to see how my body can handle being pushed to the limits when I think of giving up. #keeprunning Noeline Mallam, Suva Marathon Club Secretary

Avikash Lal, Jet Runners Club, Fiji Airways Steward and a national Fiji athlete competing at this year’s Pacific Games in July

‘I started running as a hobby, now it’s my passion’.

Raj Prasad, Suva Marathon Club member

‘Running gave us everything we have today and memories of a lifetime.

Nadia and I are now retired. After a long pause in our running we are getting back into it, to contribute to the sport that gave us so much. The discipline, dedication, consistency and passion of our running made us thrive in everything we did. We are taking running as an adventure now, so we are going to travel and run half and full marathons wherever we can, hence providing support to the charities that most of these races cater to. The most important reason for us to continue to run is to maintain a healthy lifestyle.’

Binesh Prasad, Fiji national marathon record holder Francis Chung, male winner of the wheelchair race in 2019 Not everyone is a marathon runner or looking to beat their personal best. If you’ve never run before, or if it’s been a long time since you last ran, when you pull on your new trainers and get out there, you’re body can feel awkward, uncoordinated and uncomfortable. These are all normal feelings. You’re asking your muscles and joints to move and take the load in new ways.

But, persevere, and you’ll find your body gets used to the movements, and slowly you will find yourself enjoying the feeling of freedom that moving under your own steam gives you, enjoying being out on the Suva sea wall as the sun rises or sets, and enjoying how exercise energises and refreshes you.

Register for a race at the Suva Marathon and get yourself moving!

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ADVENTURE

Rafting up

NAVUA

By AIMEE JANE Photos IVA ROKOVESA Water Rafting in Fiji? The warm weather and a raft down one of the world’s best rivers, I think anyone would be up for that. It doesn’t disappoint and from everyone’s reactions looks like the highlight of your trip to Fiji. With famous names like Ed Sheeran and Shay Mitchell (Pretty Little Liars) rafting down the river, it’s no wonder it’s a must do in Fiji. However our guide did tell us that sadly Ed Sheeran did not sing for them while travelling down the river.

Rivers Fiji Ltd which was established in 1997 to present, the main focus of the project was to highlight the importance of the ecosystem in Fiji as well as the environment but also to show owners how to care for their natural resources whilst also giving them an opportunity to earn a wage by bringing tourism to the area. Rivers Fiji is based in Pacific Harbour, a beautiful area of Fiji which if you wanted to spend time at at the beach as well as inland, is one of one of the best and most beautiful places to catch some rays.

On arriving at Rivers Fiji which is about an hour away from Fiji’s capital, Suva, you are welcomed into a cosy reception room with free coffee to warm you in the winter months. The coffee is also brilliant for waking you up as the day began at 6am, so its very much welcomed. After picking everyone up you’re off again, the van taking you up a gravel trail on route to the river and start destination for rafting. It’s about an hour and a half away so there is plenty of time to sleep and recover from the days early start. However don’t sleep through the break half way through the drive with homemade banana bread and juice and a group photo and talk through the river tour.

On arrival everyone clambers out of the van leaving bags inside and only taking essentials for the river. Getting kitted out with helmets and lifejackets and then making the way down to the river where the boats and guides are waiting for you for a safety brief. The safety brief is efficient but detailed, so not before long everyone is grouped up and inside a boat on the way down the river. The route you raft down is down the Upper Navua River route. It is the most popular tour and is on every Monday, Wednesday and Friday.

It is a simple start and there a no huge waves to begin with, meaning that everyone edges into the rafting and is able to get used to it. With this being said, don’t underestimate this river at points on the way down the

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Thrills in the rapids

One of the many waterfalls down Navua River

White water in the Navua rapids

Break time on the Navua River

Guests break for lunch, surrounded by the inflatable rafts

Navua River, you get absolutely soaked and have to hang on for dear life in fear of falling out. However if you do end up overboard don’t worry as the guides are extremely quick at making sure you get back in the boat safely.

Half way down the river you pull your boat up on the river side and have a little walk around the rocks while the guides set up lunch.

Lunch is a spread of fruit, sandwiches and fillings, crisps and different juices. Peanut butter is also included but don’t worry as the guides check for allergies before you even set off in the morning. Sitting by the river side is very picturesque looking down this beautiful wonder. You can’t help but admire the river the whole way down the rafting tour, from coral fossils in the rocks to looking onto the villages you drift through on your way. Before packing up again and making your way further down the river. The whole day ending at the end point which thankfully has changing rooms and toilets so everyone is able to dry off, change and get warm before hopping on the bus again. There is also juice and snacks provided for finishing the day. The ride back takes about an hour. Everyone falling asleep on the bus on the way home, after such a crazy fun day its understandable for everyone to need a nap, and it’s not just the children but the adults too.

If you are worried about getting your camera wet, don’t worry as there is a photographer taking photos throughout the day and at the end you are able to purchase the photos if you wish. A great memento of a brilliant day out.

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DIVE

Exploring the Shallows of

SAVUSAVU Words & Images SARA CARLSON & MATTHEW NORMAN In many cases you don’t need a boat to see some amazing marine life in the tidal pools and shallows along the shores of Savusavu. Only a few steps off the main road and you’ll be at the water’s edge. At low tide the reef flats emerge, and little pools full of life dot the coast along the Hibiscus Highway.

To avoid harming the beautiful wildlife you have come to see, make sure to tread carefully and avoid picking up anything; some species have defense mechanisms if they are provoked, and many are delicate and sensitive to human contact. The photos in this article were all taken in shallow waters without any contact with the reef or its inhabitants.

Starfish, or sea stars, are common sightings in the shallow reefs and tide pools. Starfish are not a type of fish; rather they belong to the phylum Echinodermata.

Echinoderms are marine invertebrates and include sea urchins, sea stars, and sea cucumbers (among many others), and exhibit radial symmetry. This means they have a top and bottom surface, but no discernable left or right sides. Many of the sea stars we’re familiar with have five arms, but some species have up to 40 arms, and many have the ability to regenerate lost arms.

Sea stars may not have a brain, but they are sensitive to their environments. They use their tube feet to locate food. To eat they invert their stomachs to begin digesting externally. Many sea stars are scavengers and they help to break down dead animals.

Like all reef creatures they have an important role in the ecosystem. They can live for many years in the wild, but are sensitive to touch, temperature and oxygen levels which means the mortality rate is much higher in aquariums.

Fiji is home to a wide variety of the 2,000 or so species of sea stars, perhaps the most easily recognisable being the blue sea star. This is an interesting species as it can reproduce sexually or asexually, meaning it can clone itself.

Reef peepers can also find vibrant crinoids, or ‘feather stars’ which perch on coral or sea fans to feed in the current. If you’re lucky you might spot one free-swimming, using its feather-like appendages in a graceful dance from one coral to another. These beautiful creatures are often referred to as ‘living fossils’ because they are one of Earth’s earliest animals and their relatives once carpeted

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the ocean floor.

Related to sea stars are brittle stars, found in large numbers in the tidal pools around Savusavu while many other species are deep water dwellers living over 200m below the surface. More than 60 of the 2,000+ species of brittle stars are bioluminescent, producing their own green or sometimes blue light, presumably to deter predators. Some brittle stars have a symbiotic relationship with corals and you may find them wrapped around sea fans and sponges.

One sea star you hope not to see in abundance is the Crown of Thorns (CoT) starfish. These large, spiny sea stars can reach up to 80cm in diameter, have between 8-21 arms, and can be found in a variety of bright colors, alerting potential predators to their toxicity. CoTs are voracious corallivores, meaning they eat coral alive. A single CoT can devour over ten square meters per year, and outbreaks can destroy an entire reef within weeks if numbers are large enough. However, these are naturally occurring animals, and play a role in maintaining coral diversity as they favor faster-growing corals. Healthy reefs can eventually recover from occasional CoT outbreaks, but more permanent problems arise when reefs are facing other stressors and climate change.

During your stay in Fiji you can help prevent future CoT outbreaks by avoiding purchasing the beautiful triton shells which are often sold in the markets. Live giant tritons are one of the few known predators of CoTs, as their large, venomous spines are a deterrent to many fish and invertebrates.

Recently, outbreaks of CoTs have become much more frequent. Many iconic reef systems, including the Great Barrier Reef, have experienced prolonged CoT outbreaks that have severely impacted the coral and the myriad of species that rely on healthy coral. It is speculated that agricultural runoff and other nutrient pollution has contributed to CoT outbreaks. Combined with an extremely high reproductive rate (females may produce 50-60 million eggs in a breeding season), over-fishing of their known predators, and rapid growth rates, outbreaks pose a huge threat to coral reefs around the world, including Fiji. These outbreaks not only affect the coral reefs and their inhabitants, but the people who rely on reef ecosystems for food, income, and livelihood.

About the authors: Sara Carlson & Matthew Norman own and operate Ocean Ventures Fiji (www. oceanventuresfiji.com), a PADI Dive Resort that also focuses on conservation education and snorkeling trips in Natewa Bay, Vanua Levu, approximately 40 minutes outside of Savusavu. They can be found on Instagram: @ matthewnormanphotography & @divingsara.

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DIVE

Spoil yourself with scuba

NAI’A

By DRUE SLATTER Photos NAIA Aside from its people, Fiji’s greatest attraction is the ocean that surrounds the islands. The secrets beneath the water are arguably the main act. Aboard the Nai’a you can explore these secrets on world-class scuba diving expeditions along the dramatic reef structures and complex ecosystems of Fiji.

The Nai’a was the first live-aboard dive trip I had been on and I was told it would ruin any future live-aboard diving for me – it was that good.

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When dolphins join you on your first dive, it’s hard to argue with those opinions.

Guests board the luxury live-aboard vessel in Lautoka, an hour from Nadi International Airport. The impressive interior of the vessel features local hardwoord timber and South Sea inspired comfort. It is my home for the next eleven days and the friendly sea-faring Fijian staff is my family. As a local Nadroga girl, I talanoa with the Nai’a crew, discussing family connections and mutual friends. This familiarity is replicated in their conversations with the large number of return guests aboard on this

trip – proof that the Nai’a experience is a hard one to beat. The Nai’a Triangle encompasses Lomaiviti, Bligh Waters and Namena, the central areas of the Fiji group and my underwater playground for the eleven-day trip. Out of Lautoka, our first day of diving is around Samu Reef. The first dive of the journey kicked off with a couple bottlenose dolphins for company. The shallow cluster of bommies near the reef wall allowed the more macro-enthusiasts to explore and gave me time to settle in to the stunning level of diving that was to come. The diving, however, is not Nai’a’s only merit. In the Pacific, food is not

DIVE

just a form of sustenance but also a source of serious enjoyment. We rate our love for a place by the level (or amount) of food we enjoy, either socially or in the intimacy of family. On-board the Nai’a, Chef Mita is the source of all love. Worldclass dining is expected to come with luxury shipboard life, but the heart and conversation that my tauvu Mita offered was something else again. She showered us with it anyway.

The next day on board the Nai’a offered more extraordinary dining and even better diving.

Divers are led underwater by international dive instructors, Amanda and Josh, as well as local divemasters to special spots. We head to Mount Mutiny in Bligh Water, where we are greeted by the blistering Fiji sun and crystal waters surrounding the seamount. This dive sees a few of the bigger-boys – a school of 10 silvertip sharks, grey reef sharks, schooling barracuda, hawksbill turtles and a lone eagle ray, while all the time we’re surrounded by glistening reef fish that thrive among the abundance of soft coral for which Fiji is famous.

The typical Nai’a day includes three dives, all punctuated by either three-course meals or light snacks. At the end of the day, there is also the offer of a night dive under the southern hemisphere stars. That night, divers visited E6’s Cathedrals, a dive I opted out of in favour of a cuppa and quiet read after a lively day. I greatly regretted this when the divers returned,

bearing stories of dramatic reef topography and elusive ghost pipefish.

Over the course of the next few days, we visited dive sites that each offered it’s own slice of Fiji’s diverse marine ecosystem. The waters surrounding luxury island, Wakaya gave us Vatu Vai, Lion’s Den and White Wall to explore. Waking up to the sunrise over Wakaya, I sat on the deck and watched our private world wake up. While birds circled the greenery of the island, ‘Bucksy’ the Chief Officer sat down for a quick talanoa (yarn), having just knocked off his watch. The serenity of Fiji mornings continued into our day’s activities, where I had an intimate experience with the calm, underwater flight of a visiting manta ray as I snorkelled over the pinnacle of Vatu Vai. For divers experiencing underwater difficulties or looking for something different for the day, the boat drivers are more than willing to drop and pick you at prime snorkelling spots near the divers.

Gau and Makogai offer similarly enticing diving, with a natural passage in Gau that is a feeding ground for grey reef sharks. Divers sit around the reef as if they are perched on the bleachers while grey reef, white tip and numerous other sharks, drawn by the schools of fish, go about their day. A village tour of Makogai offers guests a chance to give back to the Fiji that has accommodated their underwater adventures.

The postcard image of sandy beaches and

abundant crystal waters is typically supported

by Fijian villagers, through their conservation of the environment and the education of their children. Guests are allowed a glimpse into their life, with a tour of the village, its turtle-breeding and giant clam programmes. This is all washed down, of course, with a nice big bowl of kava while stories are shared.

As exciting as the first few days on Nai’a have been, it is the famous Namena Marine Reserve that I have been anticipating. A marine protected area for the past twelve years, it exceeded any of the stories I’d heard from marine conservationists and divers alike. From the almost unrecognizable pigmy seahorse to the schools of hammerhead sharks, dive sites such as Grand Central Station, Kansas, and the North and South Save-A-Tack Passages are legendary in the Fiji and international diving community and continue to live up to their reputation.

The rest of the trip is spent in Vuya and doubling back through the Vatu-i-Ra passage. Friends have been made and stories been written, as guests and crew defy the misconception that luxury almost always comes with detachment.

The creature comforts are magnified by the fact that dive staff will remember the names of almost every returnee and Nai’a’s skipper can be found with a tanoa of kava, a guitar and an open handshake on any given night.

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SAIL

QUIXOTIC

Luxury Cruise Utopia

By JOHN MITCHELL Photos by JONE LUVENITOGA Based in Fiji’s relatively undiscovered north, Quixotic Charters offers an irresistible sailing holiday from the moment hosts Lewis and Alyssa welcome passengers on board to the moment they say ‘moce’ (goodbye).

I hopped into an inflatable dingy from Audrey’s Beach two days after arriving on Taveuni island to sample the luxury cruise many others before me have experienced and so much enjoyed.After a brief orientation on board, skipper Lewis announced we were headed for the private island of Matagi, hoping to anchor at Horseshoe Bay by mid-afternoon to catch a glimpse of white sand sparkling in the sun, shimmering blue-green waters and black rock faces that rose high and were crowned with towering trees.

Sitting in the comfort of the cockpit’s beige leather seat, sipping a welcome cocktail in between helpings of my requested favorite snack of potato chips and peanuts, my mind drifted from Matagi to nearby Qamea Island, where I grew up as a young boy in the 1980s.

I last visited our Naiviivi Bay family estate in 2006 to attend an uncle’s funeral. Seeing it drift by as the Voyager class catamaran sliced through the waves roused some deep emotions within me…I am so close to home!

Later when Lewis manoeuvred Quixotic into Horseshoe Bay, we found two New Zealand yachts already at anchor while a pair of honeymooners were soaking up the sun on the beach. The scene was just the way Lewis had described it, in the heart of a secluded marine wonderland. The 43feet long Quixotic is a South African-built openocean sailing catamaran that has been refitted over the past three years to be a sea voyaging yacht capable of making holiday dreams come true.

New Yanmar diesel engines cruise at an average speed of eight knots under power. When wind direction and speed allow, her eyecatching yellow sail can be unfurled for a wind-propelled cruise that looks spectacular from many miles away. ​For an oversized guest like myself, private queensized staterooms and three private bathrooms are

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incredibly spacious.

Each stateroom has a queen-sized berth with high quality linens, excellent ventilation with 12v turbo fans, air conditioning and reading lights.

The private bathrooms feature flushing toilet, sink, mirror and hot water shower.

Quixotic’s fully-equipped galley, the vessel’s veritable heartbeat, is where chef, first mate and stewardess Alyssa whips up the most mouthwatering dishes at meal times. They collect preferences from each guest with a detailed questionnaire before the charter begins to make sure your favorite foods are aboard and your dietary needs are met.

Served a little after midday, our cockpit lunch was as tantalising as Horseshoe Bay’s magnificent views.

“I prepared for you feta watermelon salad with mint and balsamic glaze and chicken sauted skewer,” Alyssa said, teasing our taste buds. She is a talented chef with experience in fine dining in both San Francisco and Oahu, Hawaii.

A long list of activities in which to indulge is available when Quixotic anchors, from snorkelling to observe the amazing underwater life, meeting happy, friendly locals, hiking to enjoy amazing jungle views, kayaking, fishing and sunbathing, to just relaxing and watching the day sail by.

While photographer Jone Luvenitoga hiked to the highest spot on Matagi hoping to get a bird’s eye view of the island, I tried paddle boarding in the bay.

I was going to have a short siesta after that activity but cocktail hour tempted me to instead watch the sunset with a few cans of beer and a snack platter of tropical fruits.

Dinner was perhaps the most intimate time on board. Everyone sat around the table waiting for Alyssa to surprise us with another amazing dish.

For someone who believes in the motto ‘healthy, fresh and memorable’ she didn’t disappoint with a peanut-coated fish dish and lava cake with vanilla bean icecream for dessert.

Alyssa and Lewis’ exposure to high end dining in places they’ve worked and lived is reflected in the fine food typically enjoyed on board, which plays a large part in the inimitable luxury cruise experience.

I slept that night with the deck’s hatch open and from my bed saw stars glittering in the dark skies above. Sleep, and deams, came easy. Tropical scrambled eggs with coconut yogurt sauce and pineapple pico with an accompaniment of crispy strips of passionfruit parfait bacon and toasted bread made a sumptuous breakfast. There were also banana muffins and orange scones which went well with the gluten-free fig and cinnamon jam sourced from the Beerenberg Family Farm at Mt Barker Road, Hahndorf, South Australia. ​Safety at sea shouldn’t be your worry and Quixotic is fully-equipped and well-tested for extended cruises to remote locations. She is also unsinkable, according to Lewis, who holds a commercially-endorsed Master of Yachts captain’s

license issued by the UK-based Maritime and Coastguard Agency (MCA). He is also qualified in maritime safety, firefighting, first aid and sea survival.

Since leaving from his home port of San Francisco, California in 2013, he has sailed over 25,000 nautical miles while exploring the Pacific Ocean – and ultimately found paradise in Fiji.

“On our second day in here, while visiting Savusavu I fell in love with Fiji. I decided this was the place I was going to be.”

He has sailed and explored remote Fiji for the past three years and has knowledge of spectacular hidden anchorages.

Alyssa, a commercially-licensed and experienced blue water sailor also holds qualifications in maritime safety, firefighting, first aid and sea survival.

She has sailed with Lewis for the past four years and together they have journeyed an estimated distance of 50,000 nautical miles.

They have designed flexible Fiji cruise itineraries, from day sailings to 10day trips. Guests’ preferences are paramount including choice of snacks, drinks, food, activities and destination.

“We believe destinations should be left up to you. This is your dream trip and we are here to help it become just that. The charter is tailor made according to your preference,” Lewis explained. ​During the cruising season trips start from either Savusavu or Buca Bay on Vanua Levu or from Taveuni. Some of the most popular routes include sailing to nearby islands such as Qamea, Matagi, the Ringgold Islands, Rabi and Kioa.

Trips to the pristine and spectacular islands of Vanua Balavu in the northern Lau Group are week-long and 10-day cruise itineraries.

During the summer, charters typically start and end in Port Denarau on Viti Levu or from the resorts in the Mamanuca Islands, including Mana, Castaway, Malolo and Malolo Lailai and others.

Quixotic also does day and sunset sailing trips and transfers between Port Denarau and favourite resorts nearby. Weather permitting, you can sail to more remote islands such as Monuriki (“Castaway Island”), Navadra and the Yasawa Islands or do fun trips including stops at Cloud 9 and Island Bar, Musket Cove.

For Vanua Balavu cruises, you can choose to fly in for an exclusive week-long trip or sail from Taveuni to Vanua Balavu via an overnight stop in Qamea on a 10 day trip. ​“The Bay of Islands in Vanua Balavu is our favourite place on earth,” Lewis said, “You owe it to yourself to experience this beautiful place with us before it’s discovered by the rest of the world.​​“With Quixotic we’ve seen some of the most secluded, undisturbed and beautiful places in Fiji. What we want is to share these amazing experiences and make our guests’ dream come true.” ​ It’s all so amazing that by the end of the cruise when it was time to say goodbye, it was difficult to find the words.

Since hopping on board Quixotic 24 hours earlier, I had gotten used to the two obliging hosts, the luxury catamaran and the awesome food, among the many positives. I could only imagine what a farewell would be like after a 10-day charter.

My dreams had come true for a little while, and in another little while they would come true for the next Quixotic group of guests.

For more information: Website: www.QuixoticCharters.com Phone: +679 920 9569 Email: bookings@quixoticcharters.com

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ENJOY

Yasawas Hidden Gem

SAWA-I-LAU Words & Photos by STEVEN LYON The intense desire to reach the furthermost points of the universe dwells in all of us, you could say it’s part of our DNA. Unfortunately planet Earth is so enormous that the fear of not being able to see everything has become a reality for most. How do you see everything this world has to offer in only one lifetime? Or how do you choose if you can only pick a few? Its a question that haunts me regularly. Fortunately after visiting the mysterious Sawai-Lau Caves and meeting the locals, I can happily say I’ve been to the beautiful Yasawas and to the Fiji Islands.

The boat trip to the northern Yasawas was a peaceful journey. With the wind in our hair we cruised through the calm ocean waters and forever changing scenery. Views of flowing green mountain ranges and islands the size of your backyard were among the few. While drifting off to sleep to the sound of the waves, someone tapped me on the shoulder.

“Welcome to the Yasawas sir” said a friendly local with a great big smile. As I look up, I find myself staring right past him into the picturesque blue lagoon. Speechless as to how the blue and turquoise water all merged into one huge masterpiece. We packed our belongings and boarded the smaller boat to head across to Coral View Resort. “Also while you’re here, make sure you go to the caves! if you don’t you haven’t really been to the Yasawas!” the man yelled as we motored away. This really intrigued me. Although I was too far away to ask him why, I couldn’t help but wonder how special this place really was.

As we arrived to Coral View resort you could instantly feel the vibe. The small family run resort built next to the beach was littered with smiles and down to earth staff.

The kind of resort where everyone hangs out together and enjoys each others company. Shortly after settling into to our beach-front bures, our boat was ready to take us to Sawa-i-Lau caves. Although we had been on a few boat journeys already I don’t believe you could ever get sick of seeing deserted islands, flowing mountain ranges and crystal clear water.

The legend says that a young Chief once safely settled with his lover in the cave after her family threatened to marry her off to a rival Chief. Every day he would swim into the Sawa-i-Lau caves with food and water for the girl until eventually they escaped to live happily ever after on another island.

A distinctive mountain on the horizon looked a little different than the others. A huge 1000ft tall limestone mass stood majestically in the lagoon with a small pathway leading inside. Sawa-i-Lau! We had arrived,

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and we were ecstatic to say the least. After a brief safety rundown, our guide from Coral View Resort lead the way into the caves. What we saw next could almost be described as ‘Perfect’. The pure beauty of the first cave made me realise how special this place really was, and that the locals were right, “If you miss out on the caves, you haven’t really been to the Yasawas”. There was a small opening above the cave which allowed just enough light to come in and make the water glow with innocence.

“Hey guys, follow me!” said our guide as we swam to the other side of the cave. He informed us that there were three caves in total and that we were about to enter the 2nd. We were hesitant at the start but decided to follow him into what seemed like an under water tunnel, with the only visible light coming from his dive torch. The cave on the other side was just as perfect as the last. The light from the torch reflecting off the pitch-black limestone cave made for some awe-inspiring colours, along with the enchanting echoes of our voices. We continued to search underwater only to find out that no matter how deep we dove, the torch light would never reach the bottom.

We swam back to our first cave and climbed the limestone walls into the Pregnancy Cave. The locals believe that if you are hiding your pregnancy, you will surely get stuck. Being a male I didn’t know whether to be relieved or petrified, it would surely make an interesting story later if I got stuck! Luckily we all made it through, as we continued our journey through the limestone walls.

The journey finished with a 2 metre rock jump back into the main cave where we enjoyed our final moments swimming with our beautiful surroundings. While climbing the stairs to leave, we spotted some interesting art work which we hadn’t see on our way in. Hieroglyphs were carved with great detail into the limestone walls.

Goosebumps! Seeing limestone carvings from an ancient civilisation makes you question a lot of things. How old are they? How did they get here? were they the first people to discover Sawa-i-Lau or even Fiji itself?

We finished off the day back at Coral View Resort where we hiked the sunset trail of Tavewa island. We talked about what an amazing day we had and shared our theories on the inscriptions. Whatever the truth maybe, I urge you to travel to Sawa-i-Lai and experience the true mystery of the Yasawas!

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CRUISE

In Deep with Captain Cook

FINDING FIJI

BY MARINA CHETNER

I’m standing on the edge of the tender boat; dive mask on, regulator in my mouth. I hardly notice the 6-pound air cylinder on my back and weight belt over my waist thanks to the nerves that have taken over. “Just take a big step. Gravity will do the rest,” he says. I’m freaking out; I have a morbid fear of deep water. “What about my flippers? Shouldn’t I put them on now?”

I ask anxiously. “It’ll be easier to put them on in the water. I’m right here,” responds the voice. By this stage, I’ve placed so much trust in the person to whom the American accent belongs that I inhale a few deep breaths, and with one hand on my belt buckle and right leg outstretched, I plunge into the abyss.

It’s the last day of a one-week Yasawa and Manamuca Islands voyage aboard MV Reef Endeavour. Operated by the award-winning Captain Cook Cruises, the family-owned company has been navigating Fiji’s archipelago for over twenty years, visiting some of the most untouched locations in the South Pacific. When I’d boarded, I was a non snorkeler, scuba virgin, and small ship skeptic. Now, attempting my second dive of the day at Waya Islands, I am way out of my comfort zone but staying afloat. Tackling obstacles to reach personal highs has me feeling a little like Jim Carey’s character in Yes Man: Tell me to jump in the deep end, and I will. In this case, the person doing the telling is the ship’s water sports manager, Clayton Purvis.

This unusually adventurous behaviour is in part attributed to my fellow passengers; a mix of young, zany, retired, and well-traveled Australians, Americans, Chinese, Germans, Fijians, and New Zealanders. A convivial onboard atmosphere meant we’d become fast friends within hours of cruising: Caroll and Peter, celebrating their 40th anniversary, live around the corner from my parent’s home in Sydney; Neville and Pam from Perth are the epitome of good Australian fun; I met the gorgeous Greeks, Helen and James, at the Captain’s Table on the first night of dining along with San Diego-based travel agents Susan and George -- the go-to for the GoPro. More to the point, this active group of 40 passengers (the ship can hold up to 130), immediately takes to the water like amphibians. At every remote island stop, they’re snorkeling, diving, paddle boarding and kayaking; putting me, a thirty-something year old, to shame.

Although I had been fitted with flippers and a mask, I’d cast the bag with its contents into a corner of my suite, confident it would go unused for the duration of the trip. “I can’t swim and have a fear of deep water” was the honest excuse I gave every time someone asked me why I wasn’t snorkeling.

Frankly, the rote response was exhausting me. On Day 3, spurred by the intrigue conjured by overheard exclamations about “the best coral viewing ever,” I sheepishly asked Clinton Perkins, the hospitality manager, if one of the diving instructors could accompany me on a snorkel. We were anchored at Blue Lagoon, the inspiration behind the movie of the same name that starred Brooke Shields and a male lead whose name no one on the cruise could recall. Views seen from a hike atop the 763-foot-high Mount Tamasua that morning were sublime, its shimmering turquoise water beckoned, and the unbelievable images I’d Googled of the nearby grotto-like Sawa-I-Lau

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caves begged to be seen. The biggest perk of cruising on a small ship in low season -- apart from the lack of lines; no grappling over deck chairs; ordering every dessert off the menu; and having the entire back deck to yourself each morning - a bonus if you like looking at million-dollar island views -- is an enviable passenger to crew ratio. On this cruise it was 1:1 and within moments of my request, Clayton, an expert diving instructor, taught me the ins and outs of how to snorkel.

On the fifth day -- Valentine’s Day -- we’d anchored by an itty-bitty sand cay, Nuku-I-Mana. With Clayton on a deep sea dive, Mosese Tulele, an AB (“able bodied seaman”), subbed as my snorkeling partner. Entering the choppy sea from the shore, we swam to calmer waters, when, mask to water, we were greeted by a Technicolor scene swathed in aquamarine. It was the most beautiful sight I’d seen. Neon yellow fish darted here and there. Tropical fish suited in pastel blue and black pinstripes traversed an undulating Gaudilike reef decorated with an eclectic collection of Frisbee-shaped corals in oranges and purples, blue starfish, and dancing seaweed. Sergeant fish – dressed in black and white – patrolled the area. In front, a school of glittery TKTK swayed to the motions of my outstretched hand. Art, history, and science merged into a kaleidoscopic showstopper. I felt that in-your-gut flutter that comes with being introduced to a newfound freedom. I wanted to get closer. I challenged myself to a scuba dive.

A few seconds later, I surface and flip onto my back. There’s water up my nose -- it feels uncomfortable but I’m alive. Clayton places on my flippers as I mentally prepare myself for the upcoming dive. Looking around, my eyes are coloured by the lush beauty surrounding us. Rock formations, their craggy sides peaking to nearly 600 feet, are covered in a mélange of felt-green, blush bougainvillea, and palms. I spot some kids running by the shore, likely the children of those ladies tending the nearby Yalobi Village handicraft market. Except for the whirr of the tender’s motor, the scene is serene, quiet, still. The mid-afternoon sun warms my face; I feel weightless in the crystalline water. Beneath me, an otherworld is waiting to be discovered. Clayton turns to me, I nod, and we submerge 29 feet under.

VISIT

Exploring the Pacific’s first organic island

ORGANIC PARADISE Words and images by STEVEN LYON In the modern day world, it’s so easy to run down to the local take away store and fill up on a burger, fries and deep fried chicken. And why not? It’s cheap, tasty and the best part is, there aren’t any dishes to clean afterwords.

I arrived to a small grass landing strip cut between the trees, only a stones throw from the white sandy beach on the other side. The reef glowed with the sun rising, reflecting light through the shimmering coconut trees down to the big happy bula smiles below.

“Yadra Vinaka! (Good Morning). Are you waiting

arms and insisted I join him and his family for breakfast. Laughter was heard from inside the kitchen where the ladies were busy preparing food. We sipped on draunimoli tea (lemon leaf tea) and indulged in traditional bread made from organic cassava and coconut.

The local farmers on Cicia island pride

But as we know, this always comes at a price far greater than money. Recently I got the opportunity to travel to an island filled with unfathomable beauty, cricket pitches and a culture built on eating organically. And the best part of all? Its located right here in Fiji.

The view of the coastline from Tarukua I had just boarded my Fiji Link flight to Cicia island with my surfboard strapped to the seat next to me. Reality set in when I realised I had no idea where I was going to be sleeping or eating for the next week. With butterflies in my stomach, I looked down at the name I’d written on a piece of paper only 12 hours prior, ‘Kolinio’, an uncle of a friend who was going to meet me at the airport.

for someone? or do you need a place to stay?” a kind lady asked. I had a little laugh to myself but soon came to realise she wasn’t joking. I’d only been on the island two minutes and I’d already found a place to stay. Perfect! I met with Kolinio outside the airport, he had already organised a place for me to stay so I kindly had to decline. As we left the airport in a small 4WD I couldn’t help but feel like I was entering a Hollywood movie set. Coconut trees towered over the white sandy road, creating a stunning canopy above.

Tarukua is a small village on the north-west side of the island, built right on the waterfront.

Kolinio welcomed me into his village with open

themselves in being the first organic island in the Pacific. Importation of pesticides and fertilisers stopped in the year 2006 when the elders decided that growing organic and healthy food was going to benefit their physical and mental health not only for themselves, but for their children and future generations to come.

While we were chatting and getting to know each other, one of the kids turned to me with a confused look on her face. “Are you a boy or girl?” she asked. Apparently my deep voice and board-shorts wasn’t convincing anyone. We all laughed.

When breakfast had finished, Kolinio and I went

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Endless amounts of white sandy beaches and vast headlands abound in Cicia

exploring the island on foot. I soon discovered that the island was an untouched beauty.

Endless amounts of white sandy beaches and vast headlands greeted us around every corner. With no resorts on the island, there wasn’t a single soul in sight. On the far reaches of the island, we stumbled upon an enormous rock that was shaped like giant mushroom.

Vatu Soli is famous rock, with many stories dating back to the 1800s when Tongan’s were trying to claim the island under Ma’afu’s leadership.

Eventually we arrived at Mabula, the largest of the five villages on Cicia. It also housed the only secondary school on the island. Despite their lack of resources and isolation, the students’ determination and perseverance landed them a 100% pass rate, one of only two schools in Fiji to do so. All the students grow the food

root crops that they’d grown at the school.

Delicious!

Saturday the 10th of October was the start of a very exciting weekend for all the village kids, not only was it scout weekend, but it also coincided with Fiji Day celebrations (the anniversary of Fiji’s independence). We left early Saturday morning for Natokalau village.

All five villages were getting together for a friendly cricket match. Cricket was introduced as a sport to Fiji during colonial times, but it wasn’t until the 1960’s when the first Prime Minister of Fiji, Ratu Mara, returned to his home in Lakeba, that cricket really took off in the Lau islands.

The kids smashed ball after ball as if they were in the opening game of the Cricket World Cup. They took pride in their game and enjoyed it with their friends from the neighbouring

they eat, and are also taught to manage their resources and take care of the environment, something which is vital in this day and age.

Before hitch-hiking home, we were fed a healthy portion of fresh fish and local organic

villages. The rest of us joined in on the day’s festivities playing card games and drinking a few rounds of Kava (some more than others).

At the end of the day, we gathered round the camp-fire. The scouts presented their songs

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and performances for the evening as stars glittered through the night sky.

While listening to the harmonies of the children, I couldn’t help but think about my journey so far. Where else in the world can you experience this type of hospitality? Just a few days ago I jumped off the plane, got accepted into a Fijian family and became part of their village. They had no idea who I was or where I was from, and some even my gender. But they showed me the greatest hospitality and love that all humans deserve.

If you don’t get the chance to visit the amazing organic island of Cicia, I highly recommend branching out to a local Fijian village to experience the true love and hospitality of the Fijian culture.

I guess you could say my journey worked out as nature intended it to. Organically.

Fiji Link flies Suva to Cicia on Tuesdays

VISiT

Travelling in style and comfort

Use an volcano image and run this caption Get up close and personal with an active volcano in Vanuatu on page 80. Photo Allan Stephen

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TONGA

A weekend in

NUKU’ALOFA Words and photos by SOPHIE FRENCH-CONSTANCE Start the morning off with a trip to Friends café and tourist centre.

Conveniently located in the centre of town, this friendly café opens every morning at 7.30. Here you can orientate yourself over breakfast and a large cup of coffee. As you are already in the shopping area, you can indulge in some retail therapy or head to the nearby Talamahu covered market for something a little more traditional.

An amazing range of local produce of all kinds of delicious fresh fruit and vegetables is on display at the market.

If they don’t take your fancy, you could find an iconic piece of traditional Tongan tapa. This culturally important decorative bark cloth is authentic and utterly unique. Alternative souvenirs are the woven and carved handicrafts including handbags, fans and mats – there’s plenty to choose from.

For a refreshing break from the bustling heat of the market, head to the seafront for a dip in the ocean.

There are particular areas dedicated to swimming off the wharf that provide an easy opportunity to plunge into the warm and welcoming South Pacific sea.

If arriving into Nuku ‘alofa on a Sunday, be warned that almost everything will be closed to respect the religious day of rest. However, don’t be disheartened – why not attend a local church service to see the locals dressed in their best with traditional ta’ovala mats tied around their waists and hear the harmonious hymn singing, often a cappella. Town churches to attend are the Basilica of St. Anthony of Padua, St. Mary’s Cathedral and the Free Church of Tonga.

For lunch head along the coastal walkway to the waterfront café, or

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for something a little more substantial check out Little Italy or one of the many Chinese restaurants in town. A postlunch stroll around the imperial parts of the town will take in the Royal Palace and Royal tombs. Hala Tui, or Pine Road directly links these two important landmarks. To stretch your legs take a half hour walk or hop into a taxi to the Tongan National Museum. This informative museum is conveniently situated next to a cultural centre where visitors can learn more about the history and culture of the country. On Saturdays there is a pop-up market to the south of the museum to explore.

Around 5:00 make your way back to Faua Wharf to see the impressive fish market before heading into Billfish Bar and Restaurant for happy hour. Stay on for a highly recommended meal, with menu choices ranging from fish to steak. Enjoy the hospitality of the ‘friendly islands’ into the night.

Although this basic itinerary would thoroughly familiarise you with Nuku’alofa, extend your stay or be a little more ambitious by taking a trip out of town to explore Tongatapu island itself. Here is my alternative itinerary for 24 hours on Tongatapu!

TONGATAPU ROAD TRIP Tongatapu, the island hosting the capital of the Kingdom of Tonga, is often overlooked by tourists passing through Nuku ‘alofa. Most people stay in the capital, underestimating the island’s astounding natural beauty. The locals claim that it is the under-appreciated jewel of the kingdom. Those who visit Tonga to catch a glimpse of the famous whales should know that they can also be seen off Tongatapu: towards the end of August would be the ideal time to head on a whale spotting trip.

Even if whizzing off to an alternative final destination, it’s certainly not a bad

place to while away 24 hours in transit!

After breakfast, head to one of the many car hire shops such as Avis or Jetsave to get a car for the day or alternatively jump into a taxi to explore the hidden gems that Tongatapu has to offer.

Relax back into ‘Tonga Time’ and cruise along (there’s a maximum speed limit of 40-50km/h).

Begin the trip by heading east. Take a brief stop to imagine Captain Cook’s voyage at his landing place in Tatakamotonga before heading across to ‘Anahulu cave near Haveluliku village. This stunning natural formation makes an unforgettably dramatic place to take a dip in the cool natural pools, so remember swimming gear. The local owners of the land will charge a small fee of 10 Tongan Pa’anga for this privilege, which seems entirely reasonable given that they have managed to install a lighting system throughout the cave to show its vast size and beauty.

After a swim, dry off and head down the coast for five minutes to Oholei Beach. Take time to grab a drink in the resort café on the sand or explore the unspoilt expanse of beach. Carry on along Liku Road, which loops around the island, to soon arrive at the winding pathway leading down to Hufangalupe lookout and natural land bridge. A 4x4 would be preferable for this section of the trip but my standard two wheel drive handled the bumpy terrain with the expertise of the taxi-driver at the wheel.

Enjoy the drive through impressive coconut plantations to reach the bridge. Approaching this extraordinary geological formation, enjoy the blissful sounds of crashing waves and rustling palms. Why not take a picnic and sit out on the cliffs in the shelter of a pandanus tree while watching swallows flit between the palms. Certainly get a

shot of yourself standing on the natural bridge above the pounding waves.

After relaxing through the heat of the day, either head down to the Makeke look-out or carry straight on to see one of the natural highlights of the island: the blow holes.

These dramatic spouts stretch for miles up the coast, a truly breath-taking scene. Dark volcanic rock contrasts with the blasts of white sea spray that burst through. Spend a while to try and get the perfectly timed photograph or perhaps just revel in the power of this natural phenomenon. The blow holes are reached through the charming little village of Houma on the rugged south coast.

By now probably windswept and salty, hop back in the car to reach the north west peak of the island. Stop at Ha’atafu beach for a slice of tropical paradise to sunbathe, snorkel or even surf if the swell is up.

Holty’s Hideaway Ha’afatu café is convenient for a drink whilst watching the sun sink into the sea. You might get lucky as I did and spot a group of whales passing along the horizon, spraying glistening clouds of water into the sunset. Stay on for dinner with a view or head back to Nuku alofa for a little more variety.

On the way back you can’t miss the large families of flying foxes hanging from the trees in Ha’avakatolo, a town famous for these large fluffy fruit bats.

Those with some energy to spare after this day of unforgettable spectacles may want to go to ‘Oholei beach resort’ for their cultural dance displays in Hina cave. If not, settle back into Nuku ‘alofa, either heading to one of the bars such as Billfish, or taking a well-earned early night.

Fiji Airways flies daily between Fiji and Nuku’alofa.

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NATURE

Unexpected Adventures through

VAVA’U Words and photos by STEVEN LYON The sound of the siren wails in the distance as we kick off the first leg of the race. A large gust of wind catches our sail, propelling us forward and we start to heel over, gaining speed. Huge cheers erupt from the shoreline as we take the lead. What have I gotten myself into?

Only minutes earlier I had been enjoying a relaxing afternoon at the picturesque Mango cafe, daydreaming about my next few days swimming with Tonga’s famous humpback whales.

Unexpectedly, a kind gentleman approached me: “We are about to have a yacht race, do you want to join?”.

I briefly considered all my yachting experience, which came to a total of zero hours. I opted to join anyway.

Neiafu Harbour (Port of Refuge) in the Vava’u archipelago is famous for its scenic, deep harbour surrounded by mountains. It’s a perfect, safe haven for those sailing around the world and coincidently hosts a famous Friday afternoon yacht race. We tried to take the race as seriously as we could, heeling and tacking around each check point, but we soon realised that not only were we in first place position, we were also in last place.

Somehow we managed to be the only yacht to enter the race that afternoon.

But despite the lack of competition, we couldn’t help but enjoy each other’s company while sailing through one of the most pristine and beautiful island groups in the pacific.

While tacking around the last checkpoint, a crowd of supporters gathered on the front deck of the restaurant to cheer us over the finish line of our extraordinary voyage.

Delicious local pizzas and a round of locally brewed Royal Ikale were awarded to us on arrival for our

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hilarious first and last place win.

Later that evening I met a quiet, humble Tongan who went by the name of Steve.

He told stories of his island home and the surrounding scenery. He was proud to be from the island and proud to be part of the ancient Polynesian kingdom. I was hooked. I couldn’t wait to discover the island and experience something of the fire I saw in his eyes.

Early the next morning we set off with some scrumptious sandwiches and tasty organic bananas to cruise the white gravel roads. Children were outside playing before school time. No hand-held computer games or mobile phones here, just a bunch of old, used tyres that they propelled down the hill at full speed. The first tyre to cross the finish line would win. So simple, such fun.

After passing through many villages we ventured up another road to a special lookout, Millennium Point. I ran straight to the top as soon as we had parked to view the vast, open Pacific Ocean stretching as far as the eye could see. The water on the reef was a cool blue and the beach below us was a blazing white. Each minute that passed watching this amazing scene was as exciting as the last. It will certainly be a memory hard to forget, the fire in Steve’s eyes was now in mine.

Every year from June to November the great humpback whales make their way back to Vava’u to give birth. The 5,000+ mile journey from their feeding grounds in Antarctica is the longest migration of any mammal on the planet.

Our boat from Whale Song Tonga left Neiafu harbour just after breakfast. The outer reefs glowed against the morning light as we cruised between the small islands and islets. On the horizon our guide spotted what was going to be a life changing experience, our first humpback whale.

Suddenly a huge spray of water shot up into the air right next to our boat.

“Get ready guys!” our guide yelled.

The massive 15 metre creature lay on the surface of the water, as if waiting patiently for us to put on our snorkel gear.

We slowly submerged, just as the 30 ton whale drifted downwards in a gentle dive, pausing about 10 metres below us. As there are no rivers in Tonga to cloud the water with run-off, we could see the enormous creature perfectly clearly.

Our guide said this might be a singing whale, as they often sat just below the surface and came up for a breath of air every 15-20 minutes. Unbelievably, we were soon hearing the beautiful songs of the ocean. The great humpback whale sang graceful melodies that echoed in our ears and vibrated through our chests so loudly that we could have been in a surround sound movie theatre. We took turns diving

down to say hello, to see the huge eyes shine as if acknowledging the greeting.

On the way back to Neiafu harbour we made a quick swim stop at Swallows Cave, carved into the edge of Kapa Island. Thousands upon thousands of tiny bait fish filled the cave and danced around us in the evening light. Floating inside the cave I remember thinking to myself “why haven’t I come here earlier?”

The Vava’u island group in the north of Tonga was something completely unexpected. It may be famous for its whales, but I had never imagined it would offer so much more. The pleasant people, the year round diving, game fishing, sailing, snorkelling, excellent food and deserted beaches drew me in completely.

Fiji Airways flies daily between Fiji and Nuku’alofa. And three times weekly between Nukua’lofa and Vava’u, on Monday, Wednesday and Friday.

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AUSTRALIA

Roadtripping the

HARD WAY A leathered-up senior biker on an impressively powerful machine did a double-take as he overtook a battered ex-Army Landrover on a New South Wales, Australian country road.

The two women inside swathed in headscarves, sunglasses, wraps and rugs gave him cheery smiles. He boggled for a bit, probably trying to decide if they were a couple of potential terrorists on the run. Finally he grinned back and gave them a thumbs up as he thundered on past.

“It was cool, so cool,” Fiji sisters Tara and Kiran Chetty reported on their family social media network that kept the rest of us in touch with their jaunt.

The two are seasoned roadtrippers, spending much of their childhood being bounced around Fiji in the back of vehicles in various states of disrepair.

Over the years they had shared the back seats with mounds of mangoes and cabbages in season, several generations of dogs, once a cat and occasionally a chicken.

So when there was a need to drive from Melbourne, where the current family Landrover had been used by friends to shift house and other adventures, to Sydney to do its registration, it was all the sisters needed to plan another heroic road trip.

Big sister Tara lives and works in Suva, Kiran is a lawyer in Sydney. Some years ago they bought the Landrover in an online auction of Australian army vehicles as a cheering gift for their terminally ill Dad. It delighted his last days and is kept in Sydney for sentimental reasons. Friends help maintain it on the road and rudely refer to it as Chetty Chetty Bang Bang, named after the magical car Chitty Chitty Bang Bang of book and movie fame.

When first bought it was geared for

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action and had likely seen conflict overseas. It had weapon mountings and all sorts of odd fittings. What it didn’t have were seatbelts and keys. It was mortifying to have to ask the army how to start it so it could be driven away. Turns out it was the simple push of a button.

It was quickly fitted with some seat belts, an ignition with keys to foil unauthorized drivers and a little pink plastic stool with a string attached.

The vertically challenged could use the stool to climb in and haul it up after them for use to get out again.

The vehicle had a splendid camouflage canvas top which alas now has many holes. The canvas back has to be rolled up so the driver can see what is behind.

The whole effect is extremely breezy.

The sisters caught flights and duly met in Melbourne in April to plot a route along byways and side roads to Sydney. The weather was cooling into the Australian winter and they had not factored in a frigid early morning start and open vehicle. The first morning they left before dawn and their first online post was an anguished: “It’s three degrees!”

It was obviously going to take more than the Fiji-style cool weather gear of jeans, t-shirt and sandals. They hit the accelerator and headed for the first likely quaint country town to have a department store and warm café –scenic Benalla, Victoria.

We messaged them wise words born of long experience in Fiji of sweating and sitting with feet up in the front seat of Landrovers: “If you do 80kph or so the engine gets hot under the front passenger’s feet. That should help.” Not for them, the army had apparently fixed that problem.

At this point they were reminded not to do over 100kph in any case because old model Landrovers tend to wag their

Fiji Airways has daily direct flights between Sydney, Melbourne and Nadi.

Kingsford Smith and Nadi international airports operate reputable car hire services.

tail at high speed. Hollow laughter was the reply. It was too cold to go faster speeds that would increase the wind factor howling in the back and through numerous gaps and holes in the canvas.

Their arrival in downtown Benalla caused a stir, especially as they had to unload and take their luggage with them every time they got out of the open, unlockable vehicle.

The little town proved satisfactory with knee rugs, fluffy pink wrap and luxury length scarves plus hot coffee and strange, hairy-backed vinyl gloves that looked like gorilla mitts.

Fully geared up, muffled in wraps and with the camouflaged Landrover whining away as they do when making good speed, with music bursting from the onboard UE boom, they drew incredulous stares from other road users.

Along with the sisters, those on the family network enjoyed the scenic route that took them through tiny towns that most travelers wouldn’t bother to stop in and bush landscapes that revealed

new vistas and pleasures.

At one point navigator Kiran nodded off and they missed a vital turn-off. But it was all part of the fun and they got back on track after some interesting farmland detours.

A Canberra stop was a satisfactory part of the planned route. Concerned friends who had seen pictures of them rang and advised strongly against touring around in some of the most eminent areas of the Australian capital such as the High Court and parliamentary buildings precincts.

Scarved, wrapped, with gorilla gloves, sinister reflective sunnies and driving a military vehicle was probably not a good look for being in high security places. They drove sedately and made it to the highway home.

It was a short but nonetheless heroic road trip enjoyed by the driver, the navigator and those who watched their progress on the family network. The best bit?

“It was cool. We felt sooo cool,” they said. Probably not referring to the temperatures.

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VANuATU

EARTH and Sky

By DRUE SLATTER Photos by ALLAN STEPHEN On the island of Tanna, sitting on the makeshift balcony of a wooden treehouse, you see her before you hear her. Bright and burning, lava is scattered skyward and a thunderous ‘boom’ is heard seconds later.

“She is our Mother,” my guide, Malakai says, despite the literal translation of ‘Yasur’ being ‘Old Man’ in the local dialect. For centuries, Mount Yasur has been one of the most active volcanos in the world, and Vanuatu’s most accessible one. On the island of Tanna, in the Tafea province of Vanuatu, Yasur has been in more or less continuous strombolian (frequent, moderate eruptions) and vulcanian activity. A vulcanian eruption is a type of explosive activity that ejects new lava fragments that are likely too viscous to take on a

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rounded shape during their flight through the air.

In the middle of the day, the eruptions aren’t as visually apparent. However we can still see the blanket of volcanic ash covering Yasur’s slopes and miles of surrounding area as we arrive from the airport. Yasur is situated on the southeastern side of the island and is roughly a two-hour drive from Whitegrass Airport. To tackle the roads of Tanna Island, one’s weapon of choice must be a four-wheel drive. It is no exaggeration to applaud Tanna’s drivers as some of the best off-road drivers we’ve ever come across. Roads are unsealed and for the most part, fairly level. Closer to the southeastern side of the island, however, you’re driving on roads resembling the surface of the moon and expert navigation of craters is key.

What Tanna Island lacks in road infrastructure, it makes up for in lush vegetation. Pulled out of a scene from Jurassic Park, an assault of greenery

springs from the island’s volcanic soil. I’m being jostled around in the back of a 4WD Toyota Hilux, but can’t help twisting and turning to take in the profusion of ferns and looming banyan trees.

“We are not as badly affected by the El Nino because our Mother provides,” Malakai explains when I comment on the fertility of the land. “She draws the clouds and brings forth the rain and we judge from the eruptions what season it is.

When she spews solid rocks, we know it is time for planting,” he says. While I don’t venture into formulating a scientific theory for his explanation, I see that there is an abundance of root crops,

fresh fruit and vegetables in stalls scattered along the roadside.

Every so often, we stop at a roadside stall to pick up some local snacks (I recommend the pineapple). Our driver also hauls rootcrops, fish and vegetables into the tray of the truck, to deposit them with friends, family or workmates a couple minutes later in nearby villages. The stalls are run by local women and children who smile curiously over heavily laden tables or lie sprawled on mats beneath the banyan trees.

In the middle of this island oasis sits the desert of volcanic ash. During the drive, a stop at the top

of a steep uphill road gives the first glimpse of the volcano. There in the distance, almost always under cloud cover, is Mount Yasur with her coat of ashes – and the sight is magnificent. There’s a light drizzle, but after getting some panoramic shots of the island and sprawling ocean beyond, we hop back in our four-wheeled beast and head deeper into Tanna’s jungles.

Once we emerge from the foliage, these scenes are suddenly replaced by a stark and dusty expanse at the foot of the mountain. There are no roads across the dunes and ash and sand whipped up by wind is flung through our

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unsuspecting car windows. It is barren, but it is fascinating. A groove in the sand shows up, all that remains where Lake Siwi once ran its course to the ocean.

After what seems like a lifetime of driving, we arrive at Tanna Lava View Bungalows. If you’re looking for luxury, you’re on the wrong side of the island. But, if you’re looking for thrills, starry nights and a stunning sunrise, these banyan tree bungalows are the ticket. Twenty-five meters off the ground, two thatched bungalows skim the surrounding treetops and provide an unobstructed view of Mount Yasur. It is both terrifying and exhilarating to climb the wooden stairs (albeit on shaky legs), with every faith in the slightly questionable railings that you cling to, until you finally stand at your bungalow door and take in Tanna’s landscape from above.

Tanna Lava View Bungalows opened in 2014 and are owned and operated by local Daniel Samson. The shower and restaurant facilities are on ground level so we suggest you get your business done prior to turning in to sleep to avoid the moonlit climb down during the night.

There seem to be no definite boundaries to the Lava View lodge, situated right next to Isaka village. A rustic wooden fence marks the compound but ultimately, you’re sharing the jungle with everyone. Birds are heard, passing villagers spotted, so after familiarising ourselves I take a stroll into the village with a 16 year-old village boy intent on helping me charge my phone.

Once we are all settled in, bags carried up the stairs and dusty faces rinsed with spring water, the journey to Yasur begins. A guide is offered but is not necessary if you’re being driven to the top of the trail. Our drive is quite long as the lodge is located roughly twenty minutes from the base of the volcano.

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Access to Mount Yasur costs around 3500vt and once covered, you begin your bumpy ascent.

At 381 meters above sea level, the glow of the volcano that apparently attracted Captain Cook on the first European journey to the island in 1774 becomes visible to us. We had chosen to climb Yasur at sunset, as many people do, and were guaranteed to be safe from disappointment. The volcano was set against a backdrop of amber and purple hues as the glow of lava competed with the fire of the Vanuatu sunset sky.

With volcanic ash whipping across the slopes, you’re reminded that the Pacific is a region of more than just tropical postcard aesthetics, but also one of immense power. Yasur lies on a subduction zone at the boundary of the Indo-Australian and Pacific tectonic plates. Standing on the edge of the 400-metre wide crater at the summit, the proximity of Yasur’s strength and just how comparatively small and vulnerable you are is overwhelming.

According to Malakai, there are four ‘holes’ or openings within this crater, named in the local native dialect as Kaonao, Kasimiiaren, Wahiwahi and the largest, Crisoon. There are no formal records of these names, only in the stories of an old village man by the foot of the volcano.

Should you brave the slopes of Mount Yasur and venture to peer into its molten depths, it is well to do so with humility. We are but temporary, and sometimes feeble, co-inhabitants of this planet, settled between an earth and sky that have existed much longer than humankind have. Mount Yasur will remind you of that and continue to give life (and sometimes death) long after your visit.

Guide to

APIA

Photos SAMOA TOURISM AUTHORITY In July (6th to 20th), the region’s attention will turn to Samoa as it hosts the South Pacific Games in Apia. To reveal the very best this idyllic island city has to offer, we’ve put together an insider travel guide to help explore Apia like a local. Samoans take a lot of pride in themselves

and their living culture. Their capital is a true reflection of that — a vibrant, sophisticated, modern Pacific city with a great dining, arts and shopping scene — and clean to boot. In the years to come, it could be that Apia and Samoa will become internationally recognised as an arts and culture hub for the Pacific.

Samoa’s global style ambassadors, the Loheni

sisters – Agnes, Gina, Jackie and Charlene are the driving force behind Pacific designer label Mena. Here they give us their best tips on Samoa.

Agnes said Samoa is not just about the beautiful scenery, but the rich cultural heritage that is alive and well. For Charlene it’s home, with beautiful beaches, and you would be hard pressed to find

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LOCAL FINDS CHILLI SAUCE Samoa’s Own chilli sauce can be found in most small stores and supermarkets in Samoa.

KOKO SAMOA Buy your Samoan cocoa from the families that make it. Dotted along most villages you will see small stools with white polystyrene cups, these contain delicious, heady smelling chocolate. It’s a solid mass of hardened cocoa that’s a must try for every foodie.

ELEI You can’t miss elei, it’s the hand painted fabric that is sold in two-yard lavalava pieces. If you want to make a puletasi pop into Bartley’s on Beach Rd and choose from an array of overseas printed Samoan designed fabrics.

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EAT AND DRINK Agnes is clear that it’s Home Café for a rustic breakfast or brunch, Bistro Tatau for fine dining (especially desserts), Coffee Bean for best coffee and lasagna, and throws in Scalini’s and Paddles Café on the Marina, where Gina recommends the seared tuna. The sisters added Amanaki’s for reasonable prices, sashimi and poké, while Pacific Jewell café is good for salads, sandwiches and sasalap (soursop) and mint juice. Then there is the Orator Hotel for Samoan Sunday lunch experience complete with palusami made of coconut cream wrapped in taro leaves, Lalah’s café for curry, high tea at Plantation House, killer cocktails at Sheesha’s, and if you are still standing, hit the dance floor at the airconditioned bar Club X.

warmer, more hospitable and humorous people than Samoans. Gina likes the slow pace of life, totally relaxed, while Jackie appreciates the Fa’a Samoa (Samoan way) that she believes will guide the people down the generations – and the humour is quite something.

SEE AND DO Jackie suggests making it to Beach Road on a weekday morning to see the police band raise the flag and sing the national anthem. Agnes and Charlene urge visitors not to miss the immaculate Robert Louis Stevenson Museum to see how the Tusitala lived and even take a walk

up Mt Vaea to his gravesite. The sisters agree on seeing the blowholes at Taga, swimming with turtles at Sato’alepi and the To Sua trench at Lotofaga, a garden set waterhole accessible only by a long ladder that justifiably made the list of ‘27 surreal places to visit before you die’.

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BUY They admit to being biased, but recommend their own shop Tapa for a great selection of homeware, jewelry, clothing, handicrafts and Mailelani products. Apia Market also sells handcrafts, the flea market is an entertaining place to buy gifts and a trip to the supermarket scores Samoa’s Hot Chili Sauce. Behind the Samoan Tourism Fale sisters Sylvie and Sina demonstrate the art of siapo (Samoan tapa) design, which is easily packed in a suitcase. Vanya Taulealo Art Gallery offers fine art and Pacific crafts, with painting, print, carvings and jewellery.

STAY Amanaki’s is the sisters’ pick for a central site while Sinalei Reef is a breathtaking out of town resort. Taufua open beach fales or Litia Sini’s are places to stay in Aleipatpa if you want to wake up to the sound of waves. Tanoa Tusitala in Apia is clean and modern, Aggies Lagoon resort is a legend while Aga Reef resort is a luxury escape.

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MOVIES

ENTERTAINMENT

© 2019 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

©2019 MARVEL

CAPTAIN MARVEL

103 MIN | PG13 | Action, Fantasy Director: Anna Boden, Ryan Fleck Stars: Brie Larson, Samuel L. Jackson, Jude Law Language: EN Set in the 1990s, “Captain Marvel” follows Carol Danvers as she becomes one of the universe’s most powerful heroes when Earth is caught in the middle of a galactic war between two alien races..

THE AFTERMATH

108 MIN | R | Drama, History Director: James Kent Stars: Keira Knightley, Jason Clarke, Alexander Skarsgård Language: EN Rachael Morgan arrives in the ruins of Hamburg to be reunited with her husband Lewis, a British colonel charged with rebuilding the shattered city.

© 2019 WBEI

NANCY DREW AND THE HIDDEN STAIRCASE

89 MIN | PG | Family, Adventure Director: Katt Shea Stars: Sophia Lillis, Zoe Renee, Mackenzie GrahamLaurence Fishburne Language: EN Nancy and her pals set out to solve a mystery.

SANJU

155 MIN | R | Drama, Biography Director: Rajkumar Hirani Stars: Ranbir Kapoor, Paresh Rawal, Manisha Koirala Language: HIN Sanju explores movie star Sanjay Dutt’s dramatic and controversial real life.

It gives a lowdown on his personal dilemmas and vices.

DISTINCTION

99 MIN | PG13 | Drama Director: Jevons Au Stars: Jo Kuk, Eric Kwok, Ka-Ki Sham Language: CAN A musical play of a special education needs school touches the lives of three individuals in different ways.

SHOPLIFTERS

121 MIN | R | Drama Director: Hirokazu Koreeda Stars: Lily Franky, Sakura Andô, Mayu Matsuoka Language: JPN After going shoplifting, Osamu and his son come across a little girl and, reluctantly, take her in. Although they’re poor, they’re happy.

Enjoy a greater selection of movies, TV and music onboard. Please check your inflight entertainment system for a full list of options. *Selection may vary depending on aircraft type and flight route/duration

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©2018 “Code Blue the

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TELEVISION

© 2019 ABC Studios

© 2019 WBEI TM & © DC Comics

GREY’S ANATOMY

BLACK LIGHTNING

45 MIN | PG13 | Drama Stars: Ellen Pompeo, Justin Chambers, Chandra Wilson

45 MIN | PG13 | Drama, Action Stars: Cress Williams, China Anne McClain, Nafessa Williams

Language: EN

Language: EN

Jo and Alex’s honeymoon doesn’t go exactly as planned.

The board considers a motion to shut down the school, forcing Jefferson to go to Napier Frank to sway the vote.

THE RESIDENT © 2018-2019 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

45 MIN | PG13 | Drama Stars: Matt Czuchry, Emily VanCamp, Manish Dayal Language: EN Follows a group of doctors at Chastain Memorial Hospital, as they face personal and professional challenges on a daily basis.

PLANET EARTH II

23 MIN | PG | Documentary, wildlife Stars: David Attenborough Language: EN A look at the remote islands which offer sanctuary with David Attenborough.

© 2017 BBC

MODERN FAMILY © 2018-2019 American Broadcasting Companies.

All rights reserved.

© 2019 WBEI

GOLFING WORLD

45 MIN | PG | Comedy Language: EN Stars:: Ed O’Neill, Sofía Vergara, Julie Bowen Phil may have conquered his biggest real estate challenge when he thinks he found Pepper his dream home.

60 MIN | PG | Sport Language: EN Stars: Anna Whiteley We speak to Brooks Koepka about his major winning streak.

YOUNG SHELDON

RAIDERS OF THE LOST ART

BUNNICULA

BFFS WITH VOGUE

26 MIN | PG | Comedy Language: EN Stars: Iain Armitage, Zoe Perry, Lance Barber When Sheldon is no longer academically challenged at Medford High, he audits a college class taught by a professor.

30 MIN | PG | Lifestyle, Art Stars: Jonathan Kydd Language: EN Through re-enactment, rare archive, and expert comment we see how some of the world’s art treasures vanished or were looted.

60 MIN | PG | Hindi Lifestyle Language: HIN hosted by Neha Dhupia, brings together two celebrities who are best friends in real life. vd.

23 MIN | G | Kids Language: EN Bunnicula drains an old yam and turns invisible. © 2019 WBEI

PROGRAMME RATINGS

G General audience: suitable for audiences of all ages PG Parental guidance suggested: some material may not be suitable for children PG-13 Parents strongly cautioned: some material may be

inappropriate for children under 13 R Restricted: viewers under 17 years of age should be

accompanied by a parent or an adult

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CONTENT RATINGS V S L D A SN H

Violence Sex or nudity Coarse language Drug references Adult/mature themes Supernatural themes Horror themes

LANGUAGES EN English CH Chinese MA Mandarin HI Hindi CA Cantonese

MUSIC

THE SEARCH FOR EVERYTHING

HUMAN

John Mayer | Genre: Pop/Easy Listening/Our Choice A very well known contemporary name - It’s easy listening to a large extent, but a go-to new release album on a mid to longhaul flight.

Rag’n’Bone Man | Genre : Pop Big on commercial radio, ‘17 Critic’s Choice winner. A rising star in the mainstream. Top 5 in NZ

AUDIO ON DEMAND

We have over 550 full length of albums from 12 different categories to choose from. Here are some of our favourites. For a full list see your onscreen menu.

POP

EASY LISTENING/ OLD FAVOURITES

ALTERNATIVE

Train - A Girl, a Bottle, a Boat One of the biggest US AC bands ever. Solid mainstream pop.

Roy Orbison - Black & White Night A famous performance beautifully re-released.

One of the all-time greats we currently don’t have onboard.

Holy Holy - Paint Exciting and fresh sounding alternative (rare at the moment!). Great interesting sounds about our the current world and culture. Huge on Triple J.

R&B/SOUL Pitbull - Climate Change Featuring Flo Rida, Ty Dolla $ign, Jason Derulo, Enrique Iglesias - Very high profile talent. A touch of MOR but not necessarily in a bad way,

George Michael - Ladies & Gentlemen Fresh in our minds with his recent passing. We don’t have a best of onboard, he’s one of the all time great pop singers and a must-have.

Khalid - American Teen A fantastic debut - soft synth R&B, a more minimal sound that will sound fresh this year as an antidote to some of the pop trends of 2016.

KIDS Various Artists - Trolls Soundtrack Top 10 in the US and wordwide. A perfect album for the kids’ section. Timberlake, Grande, Stefani..

CLASSICAL François Salque & Eric Le Sage - Beethoven Two fo the great current musicians playing the greatest classical music of all time.

CHANNELS POP/ROCK The Vibe (120 mins) Jase Hawkins brings you the latest and greatest pop music and culture from around the globe.

CHILDREN’S Kid’s Corner (120 mins) Hey kids, come on a mid-air adventure with lots of great, exciting music. It’s guaranteed to be fun.

CLASSICAL Concerto (120 mins) Let the power and art of classical music sweep you away on your journey. During this 2 hour show we present the latest and the best of the classical genre.

WORSHIP Soul Deep (120 mins) Replenish your soul with these praise and worship tracks for travellers.

LOUNGE The Lounge (120 mins) Sit back and relax with this carefully chosen selection of music designed to make you feel blissfully chilled out and laid back during your flight.

HINDI Hindi Harmonium (120 mins) The most exciting and entertaining Hindi hits will take you Bollywood and beyond.

Artist Highlight Spotlight: George Michael (120 mins) In this episode we shine the spotlight on the life and times of George Michael.

FIJIAN HITS Vude FM (120 mins) Join us on Vude FM for 2 hours full of Fijian favourites, from Makare to Kabani.

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London

Fiji Link Routes

Interline Routes

Codeshare Routes

Fiji Airways Routes

ROUTE KEY

Rome

Amsterdam Paris Frankfurt

Dubai

PERTH

Perth

Bangkok

SINGAPORE

Chennai

ADELAIDE

DARWIN

HOBART

SYDNEY CANBERRA

BRISBANE

CAIRNS TOWNSVILLE ROCKHAMPTON

PORT VILA

CHRISTCHURCH

AUCKLAND

HONOLULU

VAVA’U NUKU’ALOFA

KIRITIMATI

WELLINGTON

AUCKLAND

SUVA

WELLINGTON

NEW ZEALAND CODESHARE

CHRISTCHURCH

SYDNEY

NADI

APIA

FUNAFUTI

TARAWA HONIARA

BRISBANE

Darwin

Taipei

TOKYO

ADELAIDE MELBOURNE

Shanghai

HONG KONG

AUSTRALIAN CODESHARE

Mumbai Hyderabad

New Delhi

Kolkata

Beijing

NADI

Kahului Kona

San Jose Fresno Monterey Santa Barbara

SAN FRANCISCO St. Louise

ROTUMA

KADAVU

Kansas City

Denver

SUVA

KORO

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LAKEBA

CICIA

VANUABALAVU

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SAVUSAVU

LABASA

FIJI DESTINATIONS

LOS

Sacramento

Salt Lake City

Toronto

Boston Nashville New York Albuquerque Philadelphia Charlotte Las Vegas Baltimore Phoenix Raleigh-Durham Atlanta Palm Springs Washington DC ANGELES TucsonDallas Oklahoma Houston Orlando Austin Tampa Bay San Diego

Seattle Reno

Vancouver

fiji airways destinations

Our FleeT BOEING 737-700 Boeing 737-700 BUSINESS 8 - Economy ECONOMY

8 - Business class 112 class

BOEING 737-800 BUSINESS 8 BUSINESS 8

ECONOMY ECONOMY

112

154 162

Airbus 330-200

AIRBUS A330-200 24 - Business class BUSINESS 24

ECONOMY

249

AIRBUS A330-300 BUSINESS 24

ECONOMY

289

249 - Economy class

Boeing 737-700 8 - Business class

112 - Economy class

Fiji Link DHC6-300 BUSINESS n/a ECONOMY 19

ATR 42-600 BUSINESS n/a ECONOMY 46

ATR 72-600 BUSINESS ECONOMY

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EARN QANTAS FREQUENT FLYER POINTS WITH AVIS*

FLY WELL YOGA FOR AIRPLANES Airplanes and yoga don’t often mix. There’s nothing like a few hours in a restricted space to make your body feel tight and blocked. If you’re on a long haul flight, stretching out and relaxing is even more challenging. Try this in-flight yoga routine to help your body feel restored and rejuvenated during the flight. This way you’ll land with a relaxed body and mind.

MEDITATION Assume any comfortable seated position and straighten your spine. If you’re in a regular seat, scoot slightly forward to avoid rounding your back.

Pivot into the hips and engage the pelvic floor.

Close your eyes, bring your attention to your breath. Count your breath backward from ten.

Repeat a few times. Then let your attention rest on the heart centre. Open your eyes.

SEATED SPINAL TWIST Keeping both sitting bones planted, pivot slightly forward into the hips. Inhale as you maximize the space between the vertebrae, exhale as you gently twist towards the right. Don’t over do it, just allow your spine to elongate. Use the hands to guide and support the movement. Gaze to the right. Stay for five breaths and repeat on the other wise.

To make a reservation, please contact: • Nadi Airport (24 hours) • Port Denarau (Free delivery to all Denarau Resorts)

• Coral Coast • Suva • Nausori Airport (we meet all pre-booked clients)

• Labasa

RESERVATIONS Phone (679) 672 2233 (24 hours) Email info@avis.com.fj Website www.avis.com.fj

* You must be a member of the Qantas Frequent Flyer program to earn points.

Membership and points are subject to the terms and conditions of the Qantas Frequent Flyer program. A joining fee may apply. For more information about earning points with Avis visit qantas.com.au/cars. CT10636

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SEATED LEG LIFTS Pivot slightly forward into your hips. Draw your right knee up into your chest and wrap your arms around your shin. Exhale as you extend your left leg as much as possible. Stay for five breaths. Reach under your thigh and wrap your arms around. Inhale as you suck in the lower abdomen. Exhale as you straighten the leg as much as accessible. Stay for five breaths, then repeat on the other aide. Next try both legs. Lean back on your sacrum and hug both knees into your chest. Tuck the head under and exhale as you round the back. Stay for five breaths. Either wrap the arms around your thighs or hold the feet. Inhale as your straighten the legs as much as accessible. Be aware of overhead space. Stay for five breaths.

TREE POSE From any standing position, Tree Pose is a great way to relieve pressure on your feet and work your balance.

Try it while waiting in line or get up at any time and work your legs! Start off with you feet together. Inhale as you externally rotate your right hip joint and draw the right foot as close to your pelvis as possible. If the foot does not rise up above the knee, then keep it below the knee to avoid applying pressure on the knee. Activate your left leg and feel your balance from the pelvic floor. Either place your hands in prayer or place one hand on the wall to assist your balance. Gaze at the nose. Stay for five breaths and then repeat on the other side.

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