FijiTime May June 2019 Edition by FijiTime

MAY | JUN 2019

FIJITIME WE LC O M E TO O U R HO M E

2018 Australasia's Leading Inflight Magazine

Food Foray

Take a gastronomic tour around Fiji and beyond

TASMANIA TOUR Meet the Tasmanian Devils

REMOTE ROUTES Exploring Far Flung Mavana

CITY CLIMB Hiking Suvaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Mount Korobaba

Discover the South Pacific's secret for beautiful skin and hair

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Galaxy S10+

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FIJITIME WELCOM E TO OU R H OME ISSUE 34 | 2019 FijiTime is the complimentary inflight magazine of Fiji Airways, the national airline of Fiji. It is published six times a year in January, March, May, July, September and November by Cover Story Ltd. PUBLISHER Naziah Ali EDITORIAL EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS Shane Hussein Jessan Doton CONSULTING EDITOR Seona Smiles DESIGNER Albert Rolls CONTRIBUTORS Allan Stephen Becca Hensley Benjamin Mack Drue Slatter Feroz Khalil Imere Nadrudru Jorah McKinley Marita Manley Editorial enquiries publisher@coverstory.com.fj Advertising enquiries sales@coverstory.com.fj COVER STORY LTD 46 Gordon Street, Suva PO Box 18357, Suva, Fiji +679 3312061 | mailife.com.fj Correspondence to the airline Chief Executive Officer Fiji Airways PO Box 9266, Nadi Airport Fiji +679 6720777 fjceo@fijiairways.com

Â© All rights reserved. Copyrighted by Fiji Airways Ltd and Cover Story Limited respectively. Opinions expressed in FijiTime are solely those of the writers and are not necessarily endorsed by Fiji Airways Ltd and/or Cover Story Limited and their related companies. They are not responsible or liable in any way for the contents of any of advertisements, articles, photographs or illustrations contained in this publication. Unsolicited material will not be returned. All information was correct at time of publication.

For flight reservations or more information on Fiji Airways and Fiji Link, please visit fijiairways.com We are available 24 hours a day on the following numbers: Fiji 3304388 or 6720888 Australia 1 800 230 150 New Zealand 0800 800 178 USA and Canada 1 800 227 4446 Mainland China 4001206268 Hong Kong 3192 7568

This magazine is proudly produced using environmentally friendly and sustainably sourced material.

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RECEIVER

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ON THE COVER

CONTENTS MAY \ JUN 19

Kokoda, one of the most popular Fijian dishes served on a miniature tanoa (kava bowl). More stories of Fijian flavours inside. PHOTO Allan Stephen - Infinity Images Fiji

FEATURES

ADVENTURE ABOUND Explore the heart of Viti Levu on a ten-day walk through stunning Fijian highlands, gushing rivers and meet the locals. Photo: Daniel Gerecke

REGULARS

16 SNAPSHOTS

FOOD FOCUS

Catch up on the latest

Auckland’s Chef Stefania Ugolini invites you to Pasta

updates from Fiji Airways

& Cuore

HONG KONG HIKES

COOL CHRISTCHURCH

A Guide to Hiking in Lantau Island and more

24 hours exploring vibrant Christchurch and its exciting neighbourhoods

85 ENTERTAINMENT Your inflight movies, TV and music

90 FLY WELL Inflight excercise

Fiji Discovery Cruises “I highly recommend this for all ages instead of a resort stay. You visit a different place every day and have ample opportunity to snorkel, swim, relax and participate in a wide variety of Fijian experiences.”

Toni, ACT Australia Oct 2013

Remote North, Lau & Kadavu Discovery Cruises

3, 4 & 7 Night Yasawa Cruises

Sunset Dinner Cruises

Tivua Island Full day Cruises

Reservations & Enquiries

F I J I ’ S

C R U I S E

L I N E

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See your travel agent, tour desk or call us in Fiji on 6701 823 or call in at our Port Denarau or Nadi Airport desk

Or book online at www.captaincook.com.fj or email us Fiji@captaincook.com.fj 8 this FIJITIME Mention advertisement to receive your free gift when booking your cruise

INTERNATIONAL

COMPANY DIRECTORS COURSE™ YOUR COURSE , YOUR WAY. Take a global view of governance with our tailored international director course. International Company Directors Course: Monday 10 to Friday 14 June 2019 – Nadi, Fiji The world’s largest director institute.

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Learn more at companydirectors.com.au/fiji-icdc FIJITIME

BULA

Andre

Shaenaz

Managing Director and CEO Fiji Airways fjceo@fijiairways.com @fijiairways

Executive General Manager Fiji Link gm@fijilink.com @fijiairways

VILJOEN

VOSS

Bula to all friends of Fiji Airways. Thank you for flying Fiji’s National Airline today, and I welcome you onboard by saying, Welcome to Our Home. Welcome to our food edition, where we take you on a gastronomic journey across our network, near, far and everywhere in between. We try out new kid on the block, Award winning Chef, Stefania Ugolini’s newly opened Pasta & Coure in Auckland. Regular contributor Ben Mack explores the most romantic restaurants in New Zealand and the South Pacific that will be sure to win you some brownie points with your significant other. The contrast of candle light dinners in the city and laid back settings in the islands gives many options for the romantics. From romance to rugby, we’ve been on a high since our Fiji Airways 7s team created history by winning the Hong Kong 7s five years in a row-the only team to achieve such a feat. They call us rugby crazy, we don’t disagree. We go on a discovery of this exciting city that perfectly melds sports, shopping, culture and cuisine. Thank you for your business and for choosing to fly Fiji’s National Airline. We look forward to your continued feedback regarding our service. This greatly helps us assess our performance and make improvements where necessary. Please write to fjceo@fijiairways.com with anything you’ve noted on this flight.

Bula vinaka to all our guests, from all of us here at Fiji Link, the domestic subsidiary of Fiji Airways. Thank you for choosing to travel to this special piece of paradise we call home, Fiji. To our local travellers flying with us today, ni sa bula vinaka and welcome onboard. They say people travel for experiences, and in this issue, we have three big experiences covered- romance, adventure, and cuisine. Romance takes us to the most dreamy spots in Fiji to get married and honeymoon, and appropriately followed by the top places for some spa pampering. In the local food scene, we feature some up and coming Fijian chefs who are redefining local cuisine and turning heads for the most delicious reasons. On a more grassroots level, we explore the organic delights of the Tavua and Suva markets. And once you’ve had your fill and need to work off the food, we show you the best free-dive sites in Savusavu and a hike up to Mount Korobaba in the capital. It’s great to share more of our home with you in another edition of FijiTime, and we hope you enjoy what we have in store for you. If there’s anything we can do to make your flight more comfortable, please do not hesitate to let our crew know. Vinaka Shaenaz

Vinaka. Andre

About Us: Founded in 1951, Fiji Airways Group comprises of Fiji Airways, Fiji’s National Airline and its subsidiaries: Fiji Link, its domestic and regional carrier, Pacific Call Comm Ltd, and a 38.75% stake in the Sofitel Fiji Resort & Spa on Denarau Island, Nadi. Fiji Airways has a fleet of brand new wide body A330s and refreshed B737 aircrafts. Fiji Link has a fleet of ATR 72, ATR42 and DHC-6 Twin Otter aircraft. From its hubs at both Nadi and Suva International Airports, Fiji Airways and Fiji Link serve 64 destinations in 13 countries (including code-share). Destinations include Australia, New Zealand, the USA, the UK, Hong Kong, Singapore, Samoa, Tonga, Tuvalu, Kiribati, Vanuatu and Solomon Islands. The Fiji Airways Group brings in 64 percent of all visitors who fly to Fiji, employs over 1000 employees, earn revenues of over FJD$815 million (USD $390m), and directly contribute a significant portion of the country’s Gross Domestic Product (GDP). Fiji Airways rebranded from Air Pacific in June 2013. Visit fijiairways.com for more information.

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DIsCOvER

Explore short cruises to idyllic Fijian Islands with Captain Cook. Story on page page 26

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UPdATeS FIJI AIRWAYS AND JAPAN AIRLINES ANNOUNCE CODESHARE AGREEMENT We are pleased to announce a new partnership with Japan’s flag carrier airline, Japan Airlines. As part of the airline’s initiative, this agreement will make travel between Fiji and Japan more convenient for travellers with both airlines being members of the oneworld alliance family. The codeshare agreement will allow Japan Airlines to offer almost daily flights between Nadi and Tokyo Narita, with two direct services, and seamless connection options via our other Asian gateways, Singapore (SIN) and Hong Kong (HKG), utilising the ‘JL’ designator code on flights operated by Fiji Airways*. *Subject to regulatory approvals EXCITING CHANGES FOR ONBOARD BUSINESS CLASS DINING We are delighted to announce some exciting changes for our onboard Business Class dining experience for Business Class Guests departing Nadi on early morning and night flights. The ‘Dine on the Ground’ concept was a result of the feedback received from guests for these particularly timed flights, which was for lighter meals in the air to allow for more work and rest. Business Class guests will be invited to a full breakfast or dinner at our flagship Fiji Airways Premier Lounge before boarding their flight. This includes barista-made coffee, made-to-order breakfast items, a full bakery and a wide selection of fresh fruit juices. For dinner, guests will also enjoy hot meals designed by Fiji Airways executive in-house and guest chefs, complemented by signature cocktails, mocktails, a full service bar and the exclusive ‘Fiji Bean Cart’. Onboard express dining offers guests light brunch or supper to better reflect the time of day inflight. Brunch and supper options will include continental breakfast, assorted fresh fruit, gourmet paninis, fresh salads, international style tapas and soups. This concept gives guests more time and space to work, to maximise their relaxation and rest onboard. For flights over nine hours, the second meal will be a full three-course meal designed by guest and in-house chefs catering to the keen palates of our Business Class guests. The Business Class dining experience for all other flights remain unchanged.

FLEXIBLE SEAT SELECTION OPTIONS We are excited to introduce more selection opportunities for our customers to request their preferred seat online using the ‘Manage your booking’ option. The five respective options include: 1. Bulkhead Seats –Economy cabin seats in the front of the cabin with more legroom to stretch and is highly recommended if you are tall and want to be amongst the first to board, disembark or experience our inflight service. 2. Exit Row Seats – with more room to stretch, these seats are situated either next to, adjacent to or immediately behind an Emergency Exit door. 3. Up Front Seats – be among the first economy passengers to experience

our Fijian hospitality and disembark from a flight. This option is affordable and ideal for transiting passengers. 4. Forward Seats – Located just behind the Up Front Seats and highly recommendable for transit passengers and for passengers wanting to be among the first to disembark. 5. Bassinet Seats – while these seats may be pre-purchased in advance as reassurance for adults travelling with infants, this is only available via our Call Centre or Sales Office. To find out more about the Seat Selection options and its Terms and Conditions, please visit our Fiji Airways website on www.fijiairways.com

EXPERIENCE NEW UPDATES ON OUR FIJI AIRWAYS TRAVEL APP With the introduction of our Fiji Airways travel App, guests can now manage their flight journey on the go with ease through their mobile devices. As part of the Airline’s ongoing initiative to enhance our customer experience, we are delighted to introduce new enhancements and features, which will add more value to their journey including codeshare, and interline guests. The enhancements and added features includes: • Ability to scan passport and autofill details on forms • Option to scan payment credit card and autofill details on forms • 3rd Party Ancillaries which includes car hire and hotel booking integration • Users can now share their trip details with whomever they want via an entry point on the My Trips screen. Once selected, the user can enter one or many email addresses for the people with whom they would like to share their trip itinerary details • Through Check-In Support which enables Journeys that include partner airlines (i.e. interline and codeshare flight legs) The Fiji Airways App is available for free download from Google Play and App store.

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M O R E COU NT R IE S I N CLU DE D

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DIGICELFIJI.COM Terms & Conditions Apply: 100 Mins can be used to make calls back to anyone in Fiji, within the roaming country and for receiving calls. 100 SMS can be used to send text anywhere. 100mb for data browsing in above countries only. Roaming passport costs $15 and is valid FIJITIME for 24 hours. Offer auto renews upon expiry. To Opt out dial *100#. Out of bundle rates apply. Visit www.digicelﬁji.com for more details.

STAR FLYER

Travel like a local with these handy tips from a Fiji Airways insider

KIMBRA MUSICIAN Our Star Flyer for this edition needs no introduction; Grammy Award winning artist and one of New Zealand’s finest exports, Kimbra. Now based in New York, and no stranger to Fiji Airways whenever she heads back home for a break, the multi-talented singer, songwriter and producer speaks to FijiTime and shares some of her most defining moments, and some valuable travel tips from her years of travelling around the world. A little bit about Kimbra I am a singer, songwriter, producer born in New Zealand. I am 28 and currently writing my fourth album and living in New York! Did you always want to be an artist? I always wanted to pursue something that gave me the ability to make a difference in people’s lives. Music came as a natural language to me at a young age and I recognised early on that it made me feel very fulfilled and also seemed to fulfill others. I felt as though it was a calling for me; to impact the world through the connection I could have as an artist. What’s the best thing about what you do and what have been some of your most memorable moments? The best thing is getting to touch people from all around the world and feel like you have a connection to them without ever having met them! Music unifies people in a mystical way. Personally, my greatest achievement has been to perform at Riverside Church in a tribute to Martin Luther King, singing Aretha Franklin with a huge gospel choir after Nelson Mandela’s son spoke! That felt like a very definingt and powerful moment. Favourite destination to visit and why? I would have to say New Zealand, it is my spiritual home, and since living in New York, I crave the sounds of native birds

and black sand beaches more than ever! You’ve been to Fiji a few times now. What’s your favourite thing to do here and what do you recommend doing? I recommend going to see some of the surrounding islands! My absolute favorite experience was scuba diving in Savusavu. I definitely recommend that. What are three things people must do if they visit New Zealand? New Zealand is absolutely beautiful. I recommend visiting Waitomo Caves, Raglan Peach and Punakaiki Pancake Rocks! Do you have a personal mantra? Currently it is : Just do the next right thing, one thing at a time.

Kimbra trying her hand at the local cuisine on one of her trips to Savusavu. PC @Kimbramusic on instagram

Who inspires you? Helen Keller. Because she defied all expectations by proving you don’t need sight, sound or speech to be a visionary. Personal travel tips for long haul flights. Stay hydrated, stretch at baggage claim to kill time and feel rejuvenated, read a lot before trying to sleep (it helps rest your eyes!) Favourite city to perform at? New York! You’ve been living in New York for a number of years now. What are some of the things you enjoy most about it? The people, Central Park, the Kimbra performs at Riverside Church in a tribute to Martin Luther King. PC Kimbramusic on Instagram

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One of the most significant experiences in her career, performing at the Riverside Church. PC @Kimbramusic on Instagram.

architecture, the variety of seasons and the undercurrent of creativity all around the city. You have a pretty hectic life in one of the biggest cities. How do you unwind? I paint with watercolors or do yoga! You created a song for Fiji Airways within a short span of time. How did you find inspiration in creating this theme song? I closed my eyes and tried to imagine the feeling of being up in the air and about to land in a magical place where all limitations and expectations fall away. This helped me to create the sound of the synths then I wrote the vocals on top when I felt like the music set the right â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;sceneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. I tried to remember my experience in Fiji which was a very beautiful one! What advice would you give to the young generation? Never stop being curious about the world! Kimbra is no stranger to Fiji & Fiji Airways; flying with us on some of her trips back home to NZ. PC @Kimbramusic on Instagram

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SNAPSHOTS

SPREADING HAPPINESS.

Our men’s 7s team brought their off-field talent by bringing a slice of true Fijian happiness to children at the KK Women’s and Children’s Hospital (KKH) during Singapore 7s week. The visit saw the team spending their morning with children at KKH. Newly-appointed team captain of Fiji 7s, Paula Dranisinukula commented, “It was an honour to be able to meet the children here and be greeted by their smiling faces. Happiness is something that we truly treasure as Fijians and we always make it a point to share our Fijian brand of happiness with everyone we meet. We hope we managed to do that today with the children.”

HISTORIC WIN FOR FIJI 7S!

Our Fiji Airways men’s 7s team achieved another historic win in Hong Kong this year but this time around they became the only team to have won the prestigious Hong Kong 7s title five times in a row! They put on a fantastic display of superior skill and sportsmanship and we couldn’t be happier for them! Congratulations to our team and we wish them the best for the upcoming London (May 25- 26) and Paris 7s (June 1 – 3) not forgetting our Fiji Airways Fijiana team who have the Langford 7s (May 11-12) and Paris 7s (May 31 –June 1) as both teams hope to qualify for Tokyo 2020.

INTRODUCING THE BULANAIRES!

The December 2017 Gallup International’s Happiness, Hope and Economic Optimism Survey found that happiness seems to be disappearing across the world at a time when more people are richer than ever, and it also identified that people in Fiji were the happiest in the world. On this basis the idea was formed that Fiji could create a rich list of a different definition, a list to celebrate the ‘Bula Spirit’, those rich in happiness and share more happiness with the world…a list of Bulanaires! The Bulanaire List is a list celebrating people from around the globe who are rich in happiness; those that reflect Fiji’s ‘Bula Spirit’. It’s a creative twist of the popular billionaires’ lists that are globally distributed around the same time. Being rich in happiness embodies qualities such as authentic, inclusivity, warm, welcoming, open and curious, family and community oriented, humorous and playful, lives in the moment, has an appreciation of the simple things in life, has a spirit of philanthropy and charity, humble and respectable, and a resilient nature. It is befitting that the Bulanaires campaign is launched today on the International Day of Happiness by Tourism Fiji, in partnership with industry stakeholders, including Fiji Airways as the National Airline. The vision is that ‘Bulanaires’ will share their happiness with the world, at a time when the world needs it the most. We are delighted that our cabin crew, Karolina Cakacaka, has been selected as a Bulanaire ambassador. These people are being recognised as ‘Bulanaires’ with the vision that they will share their happiness and the ‘Bula Spirit’ with the world. The 2019 Bulanaires include representatives from Fiji, Australia, New Zealand, USA, Asia and Europe. To learn more about this campaign and our Bulanaires’ stories, please visit bulanaires.com.

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BULANAIRES at the Nadi International Airport

Tourism Fiji staff share the Bulanaire spirit with H.E the President and his wife.

DIVE

OCEAN FUTURES SOCIETY

There are marine species who navigate and cross entire ocean basins to return to a special place to either mate, breed, eat and/or for other callings we still do not fully understand. And then there is us, who love to travel, seek out new adventures and return to a special place we hold near and dear to our hearts. For me Fiji this special place I an1 always reinvigorated diving awesome corals reefs and I am recharged spending time with the friendliest people on the planet! I am honored to be a Fiji Airways Ambassador and share my love and appreciation for a place and people who enrich the lives of so many travelers from around the world. But we cannot take these diverse and special places for granted. As visitors it is up to us to value and learn our connection to the greater natural world. It is up to every single one of us to realize the important fact that our future survival depends on the sustainable action we choose today. If we think of nature like a business then we realize all the free services mother nature provides for us needs to be sustainably managed for our longterm survival. We need to live off the interest of the capital nature provides. We cannot afford to use up the natural capital faster than what nature can replenish itself. This leads to bankruptcy and no one wants to go there.

From the amazing moments of watching manta rays being cleaned by small cleaning wrasses (reef fish) to witnessing different species of seabirds return year after year to their same nesting area high in the trees of the mangrove; we can appreciate that we are the only species that can protect all these sacred places. Fiji is that perfect place to take in the rich sights and sounds of nature. We are all a part of the intricate web of life. As we put increasing amount of pressure on the natural world, we all need to be accountable for understanding our environmental footprint, from the food we consume to the life-style choices we make on a daily basis. I think this is a very exciting time for us all. We have at our fingertips the amazing communication revolution that literally gives us access to any and all information at any given moment in time. It is exciting to know that we get to be life long learners and continuously educate ourselves to be active participants in shaping the future of our planet, striving for a more sustainable world. Fiji is the perfect eco destination, empowering us all to be a part of the sea of change. As I always say, protect the ocean and you protect yourself. Vinaka Vaka levu

ÂŠ Carrie Vonderhaar, Ocean Futures Society

ÂŠ Tom Ordway, Ocean Futures Society

ÂŠ Carrie Vonderhaar, Ocean Futures Society

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ARRIVAL BIOSECURITY Fiji laws require everyone arriving from overseas to declare all biosecurity risk goods including food, plant, plant products, used material and animal products to biosecurity officers at its borders. These goods could harbour exotic weeds, pests and diseases that could damage and destroy Fiji’s unique flora and fauna, environment, agriculture, livestock and tourism industries as well as the health of local communities. When arriving in Fiji you will be given a passenger arrival card. This is a legal document and required by law. It is important that you read and fill out this card carefully and truthfully. CASH AND CREDIT CARDS Cash is generally used in the smaller stores around the country. Larger shops, hotels and restaurants will accept most credit cards. CHECK-IN For all international flights, check-in counters open three hours prior, and close one hour before departure. Domestic flights open 90 minutes before departure and close 30 minutes before departure. You can also check-in online between 4-24hrs before your flight. CLIMATE Fiji enjoys a mild tropical climate averaging 31°C (88°F) during the summer months of November to April and 29°C (84°F) during the winter months of May to October. COMMUNICATION Mobile outlets are located at Nadi Airport international arrivals. You can purchase a prepaid SIM card for local and international calls and internet data. CULTURAL There are many cultural activities you can engage in whilst on holiday. Check with your hotel reception or activity desk on what is available in your area and ask about cultural tips on dress code for visiting villages and more. If participating in a kava (yaqona) session, clap once before accepting the bowl, and then three times, after handing back the empty bowl. It is

customary to accept the first bowl, but you may respectfully decline the second bowl, if offered. CURRENCY Fiji Dollar (FJD). Banks include ANZ, Bank of Baroda, Bank of South Pacific, HFC, BRED and Westpac. DRESS Dress is casual and informal throughout the islands. The wraparound sulu (sarong) is Fiji’s most distinctive form of dress. Modest dress is advised in towns and villages in respect of the culture. DUTY FREE ALLOWANCE 2.25 litres of spirits or 4.5 litres of beer or 4.5 litres of wine. 200 cigarettes or 200 grams of tobacco. For a full list of all countries we fly to, please refer to our Lomalagi magazine. Please note, for passengers who are transiting through Nadi, your Duty Free will be confiscated as part of liquids, aerosols and gels (LAGS) restrictions in place by Civil Aviation Authority. ELECTRICITY The electrical current in Fiji is 240 volts AC/50 cycles. Fiji has three pin power outlets identical to Australia and New Zealand. EMERGENCY NUMBERS Police: 917, Fire and ambulance: 911 When staying in any rural areas, ask a local person for the number and location for the nearest police station and medical centre. TRANSPORT Getting around the islands is easy with our subsidiary airline Fiji Link or jump aboard a sea transfer to the islands. On the main island of Viti Levu, taxis, private cars and coach transfers are available. PASSPORT AND VISA REQUIREMENTS Passports must be valid for at least six months beyond the intended period of stay in Fiji and a return or onward travel ticket is required. Entry visas are granted on arrival for visitors from eligible countries.

LANGUAGE English is the official language of Fiji. However, indigenous Fijians also speak iTaukei while Indo-Fijians speak Fiji Hindi.

ITAUKEI (INDIGENOUS FIJIAN)

Bula – Hello Bula Vinaka – A warm Hello Ni sa moce (ni sa mothey) – Good bye Vinaka – Thank you Kerekere – Please Mai Kana – Let’s eat

FIJI BAAT (HINDI)

Namaste – Polite greeting, polite farewell Goodbye – Bye (English commonly used) Kaise hai (kaise hey) – Informal, how are you? Dhanyavaad / Shukriya – Formal thank you Thank you – English commonly used Please – English commonly used Kaana kao – Eat

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GENERAL INFO

There’s a wide range of quality golf courses in Fiji, from international championship golf courses to small “pitch and putts”. You can play a round at the Denarau Golf and Racquet Club, Natadola Bay Golf Course (Coral Coast), Fiji Golf Club (Suva), the Ba, Labasa, Lautoka, Suncoast and Nadi Airport Clubs, Novotel Nadi and the Robert Trent Jones (Jnr) designed course at Pacific Harbour.

Fiji is a multicultural nation and dining options in towns and within hotels and resorts reflect this. Dishes from India and Asia and local seafood can be found in most restaurants, along with international favourites to please every palate. Fiji’s best known and distinctive outdoor feast, the lovo, is an inground oven of heated rocks used for cooking a variety of foods wrapped in banana leaves.

Known as the ‘Soft Coral Capital of the World’, Fiji is home to a vivid array of reef life and a wide spectrum of underwater creatures including sharks, manta rays and over 1000 species of fish. Visitors can swim with manta rays in the Yasawas or feed tiger and bull sharks in Beqa Lagoon. Fiji ranks consistently in the top five dive spots in the world with Taveuni, Beqa, Kadavu and Suncoast being areas of note.

GOLF DINE

SHOP

THINGS TO DO DIVE

ADVENTURE

SURF

Some popular Fiji items to bring home for friends and family include Fijian inspired designer T-shirts and Bula shirts, replica war clubs, cannibal forks, Fijian combs and carved tanoa bowls, from which the national drink yaqona is mixed and served. Handicrafts like traditional woven baskets and mats, masi (tapa cloth), wood carving and pottery items are also popular. A bestseller for both men and women is the sulu (Fijian sarong). Most stores are closed on Sundays.

Explore Class ll to lll whitewater rapids aboard inflatable kayaks and whitewater rafts along two of the country’s premier liquid pathways, the Upper Navua Gorge and Wainikoroiluva. River rafting offers a great way to experience some of Fiji’s most spectacular terrain. For those wanting to reach new heights, there are ziplines at the Sleeping Giant mountain range in Nadi and AIR AMBULANCE Wainadoi near Suva.

& MEDICAL SERVICES

Fiji is one of the world’s premier surf destinations, bringing the world’s best surfers to its waves. The Mamanuca Islands, Beqa, Kadavu and Sigatoka are home to some great surf breaks with islands like Tavarua and Namotu Experienced multi-disciplinary health catering specifically for surfers. Stand up paddle boarding is also becoming increasingly popular.

team, incorporating doctors, nurses and paramedics that can rapidly respond and provide lifesaving treatment, covering Fiji and South Pacific Islands.

AIR AMBULANCE & MEDICAL SERVICES

Experienced multi-disciplinary health

Experienced multi-disciplinary health team, incorporating doctors, nurses and paramedics that can rapidly respond and provide lifesaving treatment, covering Fiji and South Pacific Islands.

team, incorporating doctors, nurses and Hot Line: +(679) 770 77 00 24/7/365 Emergency paramedics that can rapidly respond and provide lifesaving treatment, covering Fiji and South Pacific Islands. With our Land Ambulance, Medevac Jet and Air Ambulance Helicopter, HELIPRO FIJI offers medevac services, Search & Rescue, medical standby for events and filming sets throughout the South Pacific. Our fleet is crewed by highly trained ICU medical staff including flight crew, doctors, nurses and paramedics to provide professional emergency treatment with a seamless transition to further care.

STAY SAFE! Use our QR code to save our emergency details.

24/7/365 Emergency Hot Line: +(679) 770 77 www.helipro.com.fj 00 With our Land Ambulance, Medevac Jet and Air Ambulance

Helicopter, HELIPRO FIJI offers 24/7/365 Emergency Hot Line: +(679) 770 77 medevac 00 services, Search & Rescue, medical standby for events and filming sets throughout the South Pacific. Our fleet is crewed by highly trained ICU medical staff

including flight crew, doctors, nurses and paramedics to provide With our Land Ambulance, Medevac Jet and Air Ambulance

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EVENTS CALENDAR

THE FOOD SHOW – WELLINGTON, NEW ZEALAND  24- 26 May Wellington is hosting the second stop for the Food Show in New Zealand. If you love cooking, eating and drinking, this is the place for you. Entry tickets will allow your taste buds to take It’s a trip around the world whilst giving you the opportunity to buy the latest kitchen gadgets and learn from celebrity chef demonstrations, all in one weekend. Show runs from 10am to 5pm at Westpac Stadium, Wellington. www.foodshow.nz VODAFONE FIJI FASHION WEEK 20 - 25 May Now in its 12th year, Fiji Fashion Week is set to dazzle the fashion lovers in the tropics which features designers, showing resort separates, classic resort lines and luxury fabrics. Doors open at 6pm and an after party with DJ and live band following each nightly show. Venue: FMF Gymnasium, Laucala Bay Road, Suva  https://www.fijifashionweek.com.fj BOTTEGGA FIJIAN FASHION FESTIVAL 6- 9 June The second Bottegga Gold Fiji Fashion Festival will be held at the iconic Grand Pacific Hotel in Suva, Fiji from the 6th to the 9th of June. The week long event is set to draw crowds keen to discover the latest from the growing fashion scene in Fiji with the likes of established designers like Samson Lee and a number of vibrant emerging designers. Tickets: House of Design in Suva For more info: bula@fijianfashionfest.com HEILALA FESTIVAL – NUKUA’LOFA, TONGA 22 June - 11 July As the Heilala flowers bloom, Tongans celebrate the birthday of their King, followed by a week long festival. The events over the three week extravaganza include the Miss Heilala Pageant, processions and music festivals. A block party, Tongan cultural night, oat parade and a grand ball are part of the programme. For more info contact: Tourism Tonga, +676 25334, info@ tourism-tonga.com

FIJITIME

GALLAGHER CHIEFS ADOPT FIJI AS HOME SIDE FOR 2019 CLASH AGAINST CRUSADERS 1st June Two New Zealand Super Rugby franchises return to Fiji in 2019, with the Gallagher Chiefs adopting Fiji as their home ground for the Fiji hosted Super rugby match which will be played on Saturday 1st of June, 2019 at the ANZ Stadium in Suva. Heading into the fourth consecutive year, Fiji is excited to be hosting the Gallagher Chiefs who, have played as the home team in 2016 and 2017 and are again ready to adopt Fiji’s capital city venue as theirs for this 2019 Super rugby round. For this game, Colin Cooper, Head Coach of the Gallagher Chiefs will have their colours dominating Laucala Bay in their selected fixture against the BNZ Crusaders. Colin Cooper, who heads a settled coaching line-up of assistants Neil Barnes, Tabai Matson, Andrew Strawbridge and Nick White is looking forward to a home side match in Fiji, and admits it should prove interesting. “We’re definitely excited to be bringing this game to the ANZ Stadium, Suva in 2019, we did well to win our last match and trust we will come back even stronger given we will have the home side advantage this time around.” Shaheen Ali, Permanent Secretary for the Ministry of Industry, Trade, Tourism is “is “delighted that the Gallagher Chiefs will be coming back to Fiji for this match in 2019 as this is a reflection of the trend for many of our visitors, with return trips once they have experienced the Fijian hospitality, and we look forward to once again, hosting the annual Super Rugby feature.” “We encourage everyone to come out and enjoy this special event in Fiji’s annual Calendar” says Ali. The 2019 Super Rugby Steering Committee Chair Litiana Loabuka is ecstatic about being able to bring the both the Gallagher Chiefs and BNZ Crusaders under Fiji’s banner next year. “The Gallagher Chiefs and Crusaders have a solid fan base in Fiji and given we have previously hosted the Gallagher Chiefs, we look forward to working with Cathy Newman and her team from the Gallagher Chiefs”. Loabuka adds, “It is great that the Gallagher Chiefs will be the Host team this time around as they have played at the ANZ Stadium in Suva with a home ground advantage and as visitors and we look forward to making this, their fourth visit to our shores, a success.” “It is a given that the support that our team provides to the Gallagher Chief’s Operational team on the ground is vital and our organization is as always grateful for this opportunity so Save the Date Fiji – Saturday, 1st of June is going to be a spectacular night of rugby entertainment,” Loabuka added. Tickets are available online via www.ticketdirect.com.fj or can be physically purchased from the Fiji Sports Council headquarters in Laucala Bay, Suva.

Ocean Swim Fiji

From breathtaking beach and island locations to dreamy relaxation, cultural encounters and classic Fijian hospitality, Ocean Swim Fiji is a world-class event and the ultimate swimcation for 2019. From the 22nd to the 26th of August, an incredible five-day luxury experience and swim in crystal clear waters, relax on the beaches with hosted dinners and social events will be held in Fiji. Both 1km and 3km swim options are available at three breathtaking beach and island locations, plus Olympic swimming legend Shane Gould is joining is for a swimming masterclass and to share her career highlights. Allinclusive packages are available and numbers are strictly limited to only 200 swim spots, so find out more and save your spot now. www. oceanswimfiji.com

Naturally Fiji’s new additions

Naturally Fiji are proud of their association with some of Fiji’s prestigious spa’s, international hotels and top end tourism retailers. Our product range is infused with natural ingredients, including Black & White Orchid, Virgin Coconut Oil, Neem & Noni extracts & Dilo Oil to create fragrant body lotions, skin protecting oils, luxury spa soaps, sugar scrubs and shower essentials like shampoo, conditioner and shower gels. Our range of Body Lotions are now available in 150ml tubes, with the smaller 60ml & 30ml tubes targeted for hotel room amenities. Our recent introductions are Body Butter infused with Virgin Coconut Oil which nourishes and hydrates your skin naturally and Lip Balm to naturally protect your sensitive lips from the ravaging sun and wind.

FIJITIME

FOOD

Restoring a National Heritage and a Family Dream

ASHIYANA Words and Images Darshika Raj Kebabs on the balcony and a shisha bar are part of the dream of restaurateurs and owners of Ashiyana, husband and wife duo, Dhruv Morris and Chandra Prabha. In February 1988, the family opened the Curry House in Suva, offering affordable Indian meals to customers around Suva City. Being in business for nearly 33 years, the Morris family has much experience in food and beverage concerns. Meanwhile Dhruv always had a dream to open a North Indian restaurant. While other Indian restaurants were offering basic Indian meals such as curry, dhal and roti, the Morris’s had to come up with something unique. Ashiyana opened on the ground floor of the Old Town Hall building and began serving authentic Indian cuisine such as butter chicken and naan, which was something quite different back in 1998. Over the years, other Indian restaurants began emerging in Suva, offering similar menus to their customers. Ashiyana began facing intense competition from the other Indian restaurants, which is when Dhruv knew he had to reinvent the entire place and the menu to again deliver a unique experience to their customers. The Old Town Hall Building is a heritage site and Dhruv said it had taken some 20 years of back and forth with the Suva City Council for the family to acquire the restaurant space upstairs from their initial restaurant. Ashiyana had to go through major renovations, which cost the family more than $350, 000 in repairs, and renovations to prepare to operate

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from the top floor. Snehal Morris, the daughter of Dhruv Morris said the renovations included replacing the entire floor, which had become unstable and unsafe due to the age of the building. Heritage buildings need to be preserved as originally built. The young Morris said it had previously had a larger balcony, but since it was not a part of the initial plan, it had to be removed to restore the building as it was originally constructed. This reduced the restaurant’s space as the family had planned to use the larger balcony. One of the key issues that they faced was trying to make the restaurant modern while keeping its heritage look. This included changing the colours Morris had painted the outside of the restaurant back to the original colour at his own expense. “Because it is a heritage building, you are limited to number of things you can do and some things you can’t do. For everything we want to do, we need to take approval from the council. The council goes to the Heritage Association to get approval and then from there we are okay. So it took a long process,” Morris said. The Morris’s have listened to their customers and created a larger space upstairs, which can seat more people and host private parties and corporate events, and Morris said they are already booking in. “Our business is all going to operate from upstairs, we are going to close the bottom for a while and we will open everything upstairs” she said.

On the weekends and on Fridays after a busy day at the office, customers can come and relax for a happy hour while the chefs make tasty kebabs on the balcony. Ashiyana is the first restaurant in Suva to have a Shisha Bar. The shisha, also known, as hookah is a water pipe thought to have originated in medieval India. It was immensely popular with the wealthy during the Mughal rule when it was not only a custom, but also a matter a prestige. Now the hookah is once more becoming popular among young adults, gathering mass attention as a means to socialize. It is also gaining intense popularity in the western world, with shisha coming in unique flavors. Ashiyana wants to bring this experience to Suva people. Ashiyana has also brought in three new chefs who will be offer the customers a whole new range of food. While not everything can fit on the menu, Snehal said the restaurant would have a lot of specials. It will reintroduce Indian food with a modern twist, such as Flumbae Fish, while keeping culture and heritage at heart – especially since the restaurant itself is part of the country’s history. “We want to keep the heritage building the way it is and let people enjoy it, because access to this building wasn’t available to many people”. With a rating of 4 out of 5 stars on Trip Adviser, the restaurant has had positive reviews from satisfied customers praising the atmosphere, service, affordable prices and most importantly, the food.

LEGEND ADVERTORIAL

The mystery of the caves of

SAWA-I-LAU

Story by EPINERI VULA Illustration by ALBERT ROLLS Locals will tell you that Sawa-i-Lau Island is the heart of Yasawa and Fiji, despite its location on the far western edge of the Fiji Group. They believe it to be a hiding place of old Fijian mana or ‘magic’. Locals also believe you have never been to Yasawa if you have not set foot on Sawa-i-Lau and explored the limestone caves. The island - a distinctive limestone mass rising 1000 feet above sea level - is the object of Fijian legends and sacred Fijian mythology. As such, it is shrouded in mysticism and some alternating stories. Reportedly the resting place of Ulutini (the ancient ten-headed Fijian god), the Sawa-i-Lau caves crown the Yasawas at the northern end of the island group. Other ancient stories tell of a young Chief and his lover taking refuge in the limestone atrium after the woman’s family promised her to a rival Chief. With his beloved safely hidden behind the rocky curtain, the young chief would swim in and out of the cave with food

for her. For all our romantic readers, you’ll be happy to know the duo escaped and settled on another island, together forever. There are three different caves. The caves are easily accessible but once entered, one faces a challenge. When the tide is high, you must dive under a rocky curtain and swim through an underwater tunnel. However, the water is clear and at 24°C, only two degrees cooler than the Pacific Ocean outside. There are two chambers in the first cave. First, the tall atrium of the outer cave lit by a huge opening in the ceiling, then the 20m long inner sanctum which has a low ceiling. The second cave is Qara ni Bukete (Pregnancy Cave), named so because it refuses entry to any woman attempting to conceal her pregnancy. Finally there is Qara ni Kasivi (Spitting Cave). It is so called because when a person spits into the crystal clear pool there is a loud whooshing sound apparently created by a small opening that brings in air as the spit hits the water Whatever their story may be, it is certain that no trip to the Yasawa Group is complete until you have been to the caves of Sawa-i-Lau.

FIJITIME

CRUISE

Short

ESCAPES

by STEVEN LANG photos by CAPTAIN COOK CRUISES Escapism. That need to escape the humdrum of our daily lives that are far too often filled with monotony. I fancy myself as a pretty good escape artist so when it came time to pull a Houdini from the routine of my daily life, I didn’t need to look further than what Captain Cook Cruises had to offer. The plan: a full day cruise that heads to Tivua Island for relaxing activities and lunch, then followed by a dinner cruise. Ready, set, go. It started well on arrival at Port Denarau; where there was an impressive village of boutiques, upscale shops and restaurants. Boarding time came upon me and as I gazed upon the ships, feeling I was going back a little in time. The name of the tall ship was Ra Marama, built originally for the Governor of Fiji in the 1950s and converted to an open deck, brigantine rig in the 90s. Like many young children, I’d had a ridiculous fantasy of sailing the South Seas as a pirate and finding treasure on tropical islands. Now firmly planted in adulthood, I realized that the childhood fantasy hadn’t entirely disappeared. I was boarding a pirate style ship and going to Treasure Island. The inner seven year old in me was trying to contain his excessive glee. Finally, with the contemporary me firmly back in place, I sat and enjoyed the complimentary fruit juice being served. The charismatic operator gave us the safety briefing and we cast off, leaving the glitz of Port Denarau and heading into the open seas. I toured the ship and was impressed by the quality and timelessness of the vessel. The mast stood proud and the bow headed ardently forward. As is the tradition in Fiji, we were welcomed with the traditional kava, or as it is known in Fiji, yaqona, and colloquially as grog. In appearance it’s not overtly enticing, a muddy water sort of thing, but the taste ends up being interestingly palatable. A kind of warm minty tea with a slight numbing effect on the tongue and if enough is drunk, also the mind. With my stomach awash with a little kava and a lot of pineapple, we approach Tivua Island after an hour and a half. It was the most beautiful approach to an island. The skies were clear, the sea was azure and the island serene. Tivua is a small coral cay filled with white sand that can be walked around in 15 minutes. There are several traditional Fijian huts which can accommodate day or overnight visitors. Every spot on the island lends itself to an idyllic postcard-esque picture and it’s hard to think of a better place you’d want to spend an afternoon. Later I went snorkeling with the gear provided by the crew. The waters were immaculate in their clarity and the coral looked vibrant and healthy. However

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water enthusiasts need to remember that the Fijian sun is strong and sunscreen should be applied generously, or wear a tshirt. I have the sunburn to prove the wisdom of this. Lunch was a delectable combination of breads, salads, meats and fish. There was an open bar with all the various refreshments you like, including Fiji Bitter and Fiji Gold local brews. With lunch behind me, I managed to somehow move back to the beach and work it off with a vigorous game of volleyball, staff versus crew. Without keeping score, the crew won, ahem. The rest of my afternoon was spent lounging in a hammock, blissfully indulging in my escapism, with a gentle breeze and Fiji Gold keeping me perfectly comfortable. Before you could say ‘bula’ our stay on the island had come to an end and it was time to say ‘moce’. A series of performances by the crew capped off our day as we returned to Port Denarau. My inner seven year old was mildly disappointed no treasure was found but my adult self was thoroughly satisfied. DINNER CRUISE Unlike the Ra Marama, our dinner vessel was a large catamaran with several decks and ample space to explore each. Again, we were greeted with drinks, but this time champagne was an option. Whilst sipping my bubbles we cruised outward as the sun slowly set.

Dinner time arrived and not a moment too soon. As with the day cruise, the food was impeccable. We were served various meats, fish, vegetables and potatoes. The bar offered more variety than the one on Tivua Island but wasn’t free; however I highly recommend paying for the wine as the quality was spectacular. After our dinner concluded, what better way to work it off then by forming a conga line and dancing around the ship? We followed the lead of the man at the front and performed dances that I’d normally consider doing only in the privacy of my own home, or as in this case, in a wine induced gaiety with strangers. If you want to take a significant other with you on a romantic three hour cruise while enjoying some fine Pacific cuisine, then this is the cruise for you. The sunset, coupled with the dinner and relaxing atmosphere, would make for a perfect night out. As we returned to Port Denarau, I reflected on my escapism of the past two days. Fiji seems like the sort of place to escape to, but even those lucky enough to live in the island nation need to escape from their humdrum, daily lives. Captain Cook Cruises can fill that need in an exceptional way that provides not only a fantastic time in the moment, but long lasting memories that will remain for an exceptionally long time.

FIJITIME

CONSCIOUS

Keeping you together

IN STYLE

How New Zealand designer Bridget Scanlan’s bags are making life more fashionable for people with diabetes By BEN MACK For people with diabetes or other medical conditions, always having your medicines on hand is an absolute necessity. But as many people know all too well, there aren’t exactly a lot of fashionable options for carrying medicines. Enter Bridget Scanlan. The Wellington, New Zealand-based designer has created a line of leather bags for people with diabetes to carry around the things they need – proving that fashion can also serve an important function. “I was diagnosed with Type 1 diabetes at 20, while I was at university,” she explains. “I’m sure most people can remember their early twenties as a time when you’re still figuring yourself out, and trying to fit in. Not only is a diabetes diagnosis pretty serious, but it means carrying around a set of life-saving equipment at all times. Problem is: it’s bulky and very medicallooking. I kept all of it loose in a big bag that went with me everywhere – lectures, dinners, nightclubs – and I would stow away in bathrooms to use my equipment, for fear of uncomfortable questions.” This began to give her an idea. “Shortly after my diagnosis, I looked high-and-low for a bag or accessory that worked, and looked, better than what I was using. No luck. The idea stuck with me and seven years later I decided to tackle the problem myself.” Scanlan’s label is called KYT (pronounced “kit”), which she says is short for Keeping You Together. “The name pays homage to the diabetes kit we carry, as well as the emotional burden that often comes with this condition. It also frames our overarching mission to merge medical and fashion needs together, in a way that empowers everyday life with a chronic, demanding condition.” The label launched with KYT Crossbody. Handcrafted in four different leather colours and finished with brass hardware, it has two pouches that pull apart, allowing life essentials and diabetes and other medical equipment to be organised separately. “The pull-apart function actually creates five different iterations for wearing the bag,” says Scanlan. “Key features include a zipper pocket for sharps and empties, a medical ID slot and even blood-resistant lining that can easily be wiped down after blood sugar tests. In short: we’ve designed KYT Crossbody to look great, and work hard.”

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She says more. “Our customers’ favourite part is the portable testing station we’ve created within the diabetes half: equipment is grouped for ease of use and accessibility, and you no longer have to remove all your equipment for every blood test. Just unzip the back, drop it, prop it, and your testing station is ready for action!” Since launching, KYT has been profiled by media throughout the Pacific and beyond, and featured in more than a few magazines. Scanlan was even profiled

vegan-friendly materials, and we’re working on further iterations of the Crossbody style.” So what else is next? Scanlan says around a quarter of the label’s sales currently come from overseas – and there are plans to expand. “A surprising avenue that’s opened is the interest we’ve had in KYT from other health communities. People with conditions such as allergies, cancer and epilepsy – which can also require a lot of medical equipment to be carried around – have been in touch to ask if we could design solutions for

on New Zealand television. “After the TV snippet went live I spent 19 of the following 24 hours replying to emails and Facebook messages – all of which were wishing us well and sharing excitement about our work,” she says. “People with diabetes don’t really exist as an easily accessible ‘group,’ so putting the word about KYT out there through media has made huge steps in introducing us to our current audience.” It helps that KYT has also won heaps of awards, such as a Silver Pin at the most recent Best Design Awards, considered New Zealand’s most prestigious design awards. And all this for a label that first launched about a year ago. “We’ve already embarked on our next design phase, focused primarily on a men’s accessory,” Scanlan says of what she and the team are currently working on. “As we did for KYT Crossbody, we’re working with a group of Type 1 males all around the world to understand their needs, gripes, and design a solution that best addresses them. We’re also on the hunt for

their needs, too,” she says. But no matter what happens in the future, Scanlan says the mission will always remain the same: to help make people’s lives better – and a little bit more fashionable. “By far the most rewarding part of any day is getting a message from a KYT owner telling us about how their bag has impacted daily life with diabetes,” she explains. “At Christmas time, we heard from a school teacher whose entire class had pitched in to get her a KYT bag as an end of year treat. We write out gift messages from family and friends that carry sentiments like ‘we’re so proud of you’ or ‘you deserve this.’ And one of our most special messages to date was from a woman in her eighth decade, telling us that she’s been waiting for a bag like KYT for over 50 years. “The lesson for us is that KYT has the potential to not only impact life with diabetes, but any condition that could be empowered by channelling design towards someone’s daily medical needs. We plan to follow the same method of engaging as many people from the community as we can, to co-design solutions together.”

FIJITIME

ADVERTORIAL

INVESTING IN

THE TOURISM SECTOR As a statutory organization, Investment Fiji operates independently as the facilitation arm of the Fijian Government, providing services and assistance to promote and stimulate investments and exports. Today the Acting General Manager of Investment Fiji, Mr Ritesh Gosai talks about Investment opportunities in the Tourism sector and how investors can take advantage of the incentives in this booming industry. Fiji’s renowned culture of hospitality and compelling business environment with continued investment in infrastructure, education and training adds value to the growing tourism industry. The tourism industry has contributed significantly to Fiji’s economy being the country’s largest foreign exchange earner at $2.2 billion in 2018. The industry provides employment directly and indirectly to an estimated 42,000 people and is the fastest growing industry in terms of employment. An estimated 76,500 are indirectly employed, equating to 37% of Fiji’s total workforce. With a business friendly tax structure that supports innovation and investment with 20% corporate tax and a lower rate of 10% for companies listed on the South Pacific Stock Exchange, Fiji is globally recognized as a safe and secure tourist destination. The Fijian Tourism 2021 development plan aims to grow the country’s tourism industry to a $2.2billion with 930,000 visitor arrivals by end of 2021. Since 2013, international visitor arrival growth has averaged 6.4% per annum, with 870,309 tourists in 2018. With the resumption of Nadi to Narita flight, Japan recorded the highest percentage increase of 87.4%. Over 42% arrivals were Australian nationals followed by New Zealanders with 23%, USA with 10% and Chinese visitors at 6%. There has been a sharp rise in confidence of the domestic and foreign investors with new bank lending for investment purposes rising consistently. Fiji is also the regions foremost trading hub with excellent shipping routes across the Pacific Islands and our rich and diverse cultural heritage, abundance of natural resources and biodiversity provides countless opportunities. Fiji is witnessing a growing interest from large multinationals and tourism investors in this sector as a lucrative investment. Areas such as ‘meetings, incentives, conferences, and events’ (MICE) market provide investment opportunity to cater for the growing demand for this market segment. In addition, large international sporting events are being hosted

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in Fiji, with increasing interest to include Fiji as a global events calendar across a number of sectors including water sports, golf and rugby and high end retail shopping that looks at the development and enhancement of Fijian Made products to ensure an immersive visitor experience. Tourism areas such as Vanua Levu, Suncoast and outer islands have been identified as higher yielding by visitation. In efforts to complement Governments initiative to spread benefits across the country, these areas have also been declared tax free regions whereby companies can operate without being subject to corporate tax for up to 13 years. Growth in the industry is becoming more broad–based with increased benefits trickling to the grassroots level, expanding eco-tourism and tourism related activities. The industry offers a wide range of services and facilities to suit the needs of its markets ranging from ecotourism to high-end tourism products. Tourist attraction tours to enhance visitor experience such as the provision of nature based activities in developing heritage sites have the potential of becoming popular tourist spots with associated trail networks and recreation activities. Opportunities also exists in the development of inter-island transfer boats, seaplanes, cruise/yacht terminals to cater for the increased demand in accommodation and

island visits. Fiji is known to have a number of critical competitive advantage in relation to tourism sector investment. In fact, Fiji is the most dominant tourism market in the South Pacific, ranking no. 1 in the Colliers Visitor/ Supply ranking, capturing over 43% of all inbound visitors to the South Pacific region. Fiji offers significant investment opportunities across the tourism sector owing to stable political and fiscal environment, continuous enhancement of infrastructure, growth of tourism industry, advantages of a young population, a first –class English speaking nation, a natural flair of services, conducive business environment and low entry cost which make Fiji a first class investment destination.

To learn more about how Investment Fiji can assist your business, please visit our website www.investmentfiji.org.fj or contact us on (679) 3315988 or email info@investmentfiji.org.fj

ExPerIEncE

Travelling in style and comfort

Visit Fiji Spice Gardens to taste Fijian flavours. Story on page 46. Photo Feroz Khalil

FIJITIME

ADVERTORIAL

BEAUTIFUL Naturally

Dilo Oil reaches all three layers of skin

A world away, the South Pacific is one of the last remaining anchors of natural beauty. Our turquoise lagoons teem with colourful sea life and pristine rainforests luxuriant with tropical flora and fauna. Deep in the heart

been revered through the ages for its hypnotic beauty. Orchids have been found to reverse the signs of aging, calm inflammation and help increase cell turnover.

of this idyllic setting lies Fiji, an archipelago of 333 sun-kissed islands, and the birthplace of our Naturally Fiji skin and hair care. Home to an ancient culture that lives close to nature, we didn’t have to go far for inspiration. Fijians have a centuries-old practice of using indigenous plants in healing and beauty rituals. Chief among them is the coconut palm, known in the South Pacific as the Tree of Life for the many gifts it yields. Naturally Fiji products are hand crafted from natural ingredients sourced locally and around the world. These handpicked, raw ingredients are brought to a modern production facility, and this combination ensures an environmentally and socially sustainable product that delivers exceptional qualities to our customers. Our production philosophy not only benefits small island communities by providing employment, but extends to minimising our carbon footprint by the sustainable harvesting of our natural ingredients, from their natural habitat, negating the dependence on irrigation and fertilisation. Even today, virgin coconut oil is pressed throughout the remote outlying Fijian islands, to which plant and floral essences are added for a variety of uses: as an after-sun tonic, moisturiser and massage oil. This nutrient dense wonder oil, rich in Vitamin E and powerful antioxidants, is at the heart of Naturally Fiji hair and skin care, to which we’ve added the essence of our natural ingredients. The power flowers, the Black and White Orchid, are a rare bloom that’s

Known as “the tree of a thousand virtues”, the sacred oil of Dilo (Tamanu) has remarkable regenerative and curative properties. Tamanu oil is able to reach all three layers of the skin: epidermis, dermis and hypodermis, promoting the growth of healthy skin. The Neem tree is known as the “Village pharmacy”. The medicinal and cosmetic properties attributed to Neem Oil are so numerous that they invoke disbelief! The seed inside the Neem fruit is rich in oil and is extracted and cold pressed for healing skin disorders. We add Noni extracts which are considered one of the best treatments for most types of skin conditions as well as hair. It promotes healthy hair and scalp and contains antifungal and antibacterial properties. Other ingredients like Tumeric, Rosemary Oil, Lavendar Oil, Honey and Sugar, add beneficial properties resulting in firmer and better skin tone for both oily and dry disposition. The combination of our Virgin Coconut oil & natural extracts and oils, produce a potent fusion that is nourishing, moisturising, protecting and rejuvenating for skin and hair. Naturally Fiji brings you “all the essences of Fiji” sourced from the finest pure coconut oil, orchid extracts and natural ingredients. Created with only one true objective: “Where the body meets the soul”

FIJITIME

FOOD

Chef Stefania Ugolini

PASTA & CUORE, AUCKLAND Words by PRIYA DARSNI Images by DONATELLA PARISINI Uncharacteristically for a Fijian, I am five minutes early to my appointment with 2018 Metro Peugot Best Chef Award nominee, Stefania Ugolini. We are meeting at her Italian Bistro, Pasta & Cuore, in the cosy village of Mt Eden. The word Cuore, means Heart in Italian, and as I stand by the big glass window looking onto two women expertly kneading and rolling out sheets of pasta, my heart feels a rush of joy — we’re in for a treat today, it tells me. Both eyes fix onto a pair of hands, which belong to a lady much older than the other — her weathered fingertips mould and seal small parcels of handmade pasta filled with ricotta. One, three, five, eight — I count as fast as I can to keep up with the speed at which her hands create beautiful shells before piling them up on her floured work bench. My punctuality is rewarded with this dance of sorts — every ribbon of tagliatelle, puffed shell of tortellini, and strand of spaghetti is created with graceful movements and elegant curves. The clock strikes 3.30pm and I am greeted with a ‘Bongiorno!”, as I push open the door to enter Pasta & Cuore. The bistro is filled with pails of sunlight, streaming through the big glass window and open-air garden in front of me. To my left are the two ladies, who swiftly return to their graceful dance with floured hands after sharing a warm hello in their native Italian. The air around me is thick with the scent of basil and coffee and the open sign has just been swung around to mark the end of lunch-sitting. Amid a calm and melodic bustle of waitstaff preparing for dinner service, Owner and Chef Stefania walks towards me wrapped in a warm and bright smile — I have never seen someone look so sophisticated in an apron. Before an evening of food and wine in the openair garden, I spend an hour with Stefania in the upstairs dining room — the walls are covered with streams of sunlight and singular frames with handwritten pages from her Grandmother Elsa’s recipe book. As the phone rings constantly and people stream in and out to collect supplies from the room behind us, I can’t help but feel that I am in her home, and everyone here is part of one big family. In the sixty minutes we spend together, I learn enough lessons for a lifetime — some of

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which are still running circles in my head. Stefania’s story starts in Bologna, the food capital of Italy, and by logical deduction, the food capital of the world. It is a story of courage which moves a single mother to shift gears from a stable career in costume design for Italian films to a career in handmade pasta. It is a story of matriarchy which brings four generations of women together to launch her first restaurant under a giant oak tree in the hills. It is a story of instinct which moves a successful entrepreneur and chef to close her restaurant and work for a friends wine shop in the city. It is a story of love which takes a proud Italian to the shores of Miami where she learns to make sourdough from one of the world’s best. It is a story of humility which moves an established chef to start at the bottom of the culinary food chain — as a dishwasher at a cafe in New Zealand. It is a story of dreams and relentless pursuit of those dreams which brings the taste of Bologna to the heart of Auckland, at Pasta & Cuore — Auckland’s most loved and multi-award winning Italian bistro. I would love to hear about your roots Stefania, where did you grow up? I am from Bologna which is in the north of Italy, in the historical region of Emilia-Romagna. It was the home of the world’s first ever university, which of course attracted a lot of intellectuals from around the world came to study in Bologna. In those days, education at this university was only for the rich and cultured who studied things like the classical arts, music, philosophy. This created in Bologna, the culture of food and hospitality and that is how Bologna became famous for food — it is called “La Grassa”, which literally means “the fat” — a testament to the high quality, variety and simple indulgence of food in my hometown. Growing up, I was surrounded by women who followed a career in food. My grandmother, who was my first ever mentor, was a private chef for a wealthy family in Bologna and my my mother, was head chef at one of Bologna’s finest restaurants. I can see your grandmother’s recipes framed up on the wall. Are any of them on your menu at Pasta & Cuore? Oh of course, the Tiramisu! We serve it in a glass because my grandmother served it in a glass for

us when we were children. You will also see in our Tiramisu, there is more cream and mascarpone than the coffee-soaked biscuits, because she would not give us children too much coffee at night time. The Bolognese sauce is also my grandmothers. The rest of the recipes are my mothers and some are contemporary dishes which we created here with my head chef, but the root is always our city. My mother and grandmother taught me to use minimal ingredients — the lower the number of ingredients, the better. The Panna Cotta on our menu is my mothers recipe, and it is made with only three ingredients — cream, raw sugar, and egg white to hold the shape instead of gelatine. Most people these days make the mistake with panna cotta — they do not cook the cream and they use gelatine instead. Actually, panna cotta means cooked cream, the recipe is in the name itself. So we cook the cream for an hour and a half and it gives a very special flavour — it is very simple and you will not find this taste anywhere else. Growing up in an atmosphere like that, was it a natural career choice to become a chef? Oh no, food was not my first passion. I studied to be an artist — a painter, this was my first passion. Once I had completed my studies, I worked as a costume and set designer for movie productions in Italy. It was a wonderful career and I was very creative, but after many years in the industry I started to find the work unfulfilling, so I left. I started off by peeling potatoes and washing the dishes for my mother, and it was here, in the kitchen of this restaurant that the passion for food found me. I had my daughter, Clio, and decided that I wanted something of my own. So, I opened my first cafe in Bologna in 1998 and by 1999 I closed the cafe and opened my first restaurant. After just one year, you closed down the cafe? Yes, I was serving coffee mainly with some small snacks. There simply was not enough food for it to satisfy my interest. So, I took the help of my grandmother and mother and Clio, who was twelve years old then, and we opened La Quercia, it means The Oak. This restaurant was infant of a giant oak tree in the hills of Bologna and my mother, Paola, left her job and came to help me

as the head chef. My grandmother, Elsa, and I made fresh handmade pasta in the restaurant and my daughter, Clio, was the waitress. At La Quercia, my knowledge of handmade pasta grew from my grandmother and knowledge of all flavours and recipes grew from my mother. After 10 years I sold my restaurant and decided to go to the centre of Bologna to work for my friend who had opened a wine shop — we call these shops Enoteca in Italy, where you can come and purchase wine to take home, and there is also a restaurant element, but the main focus is wine. What made you close your restaurant after ten years of success, to then go and work for a friend? I think all things in life have a time stamp — a certain period and then they end. Change is a necessary step for a good life. After ten years at La Quercia, I felt like I needed to change and I thought it would be good to know more about wine. My friend offered me a job at his enoteca and I said yes. It was here that I found my love for wine, and today at Pasta & Cuore, we serve wine from vineyards that I visited and worked with during my years at the enoteca. In 2017, we won the Best Wine List award at the Metro Peugeot awards, and last year we were Runners Up in that same category — that would not have been possible without my experience and the relationships I formed at the enoteca. Did you have any doubts? Leaving a stable job you are exceptional at to start again in an industry you didn’t have any experience in? Not really, it was the same with when I left the costume and set design career to peel potatoes. I did not know that one day I will have La Quercia, or Pasta & Cuore many years later, but I left anyway. The same way I also left the enoteca after five years to do something completely different. I like it when my life gives me a chance to change something and gives me a new challenge. So, five years at the enoteca and then you came to New Zealand? Yes, but in a roundabout way. At the enoteca, a Kiwi man, John, came often and he was always alone and could speak Italian. This was important you see, because I couldn’t speak any English and I remember thinking, the first time I saw him ‘this man is very handsome’. John came to the enoteca most days, and we started talking — he was working in Bologna at that time and I would show him around my city after work. This way, we started spending more time with each other and we fell in love. We lived together in Bologna then John had to go back to New Zealand. I came to visit of course, and he came back to Bologna for a visit, then one day he was offered a job in Miami for one year, so he asked me — would you like to come to Miami with me? I told my friend at the enoteca that I was going to Miami for one year, and we will see what happens from there — maybe I will come back, maybe not. I did not come back.

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FOOD Amore! Did you continue to work in the wine industry in Miami? Oh no, again I changed. In Miami, I started to make sourdough bread, at that time, in a little bakery called Zak the Baker — he is very famous now all over the world. With Zak, I found a passion for making bread and food chemistry. I had found that my knowledge for food grew a lot under Zak’s guidance. I studied a lot in Miami and I with this experience I understood what it means to have a restaurant in a developed and english-speaking country — it is very different and I realised that I could not run a restaurant overseas, the same way we do it in Italy. Today at Pasta & Cuore, I make sourdough and the yeast is an important part of the process — my jar of yeast is twenty-five years old, and it is actually from Zak the Baker. When I left his bakery in Miami, he gave me a small jar of his natural yeast, which he brought to Miami from his home in Israel. So my sourdough has yeast which came from Israel to Miami to Auckland! After one year, in 2013, John and I moved to New Zealand — this was three years since we first met at the enoteca in Bologna. The first work I did when I moved to Aukland was as a dishwasher at a cafe in the city because I couldn’t speak English. You have won multiple awards — “One Hat” rating at the 2017 Cuisine New Zealand Good Food awards, and 2018 Metro Peugeot Best Chef award nominee, just to name a few — and you are telling me, that five years ago you were washing dishes at a cafe in Auckland? Yes, after working in Miami, I knew how important it was to learn how hospitality industry worked in any new country, and how important it was for me to speak English. I did not have any experience in the industry here and I wanted to know what the reality of hospitality in New Zealand was, so in my mind I thought it was best to work inside the restaurant and understand what’s happening, but I cannot expect to have a high position because I cannot speak English. There is no question of pride here — I did the best I could do with my circumstances to be back inside a kitchen. I knew I needed to be independent and learn as much as I can on my own. I believe you must be capable on your own so that the people you surround yourself with can help you take your idea to the next level, and I have found many people like that with Pasta & Cuore. How did you get from there to owning Auckland’s best Italian restaurant? The cafe where I was washing dishes was owned by an Italian woman and because of her, my time washing dishes was really short. One day she came to me and said, “you can’t wash dishes. You have too much talent, you can’t do this anymore — it is not possible and you need to find proper work for you.”

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We lived in Titirangi at the the time and one of the oldest cafes in the village, Hardware Cafe, was looking for a chef. I went to the owners and I said, ”I’m ready to start but I don’t speak English well, and I only know authentic Italian cuisine. I have no experience in what New Zealander’s like, but I am ready if you want me — the choice is yours.” They offered me the role of head chef, but only for the night shift which had less customers and only open Thursday to Saturday evenings, so that’s how I found myself back to a challenge — with little knowledge of english, I was head chef at this cafe for one year. Through this experience, I came to understand what Auckland offers it’s people in terms of food. I explored the city and found my favourite neighbourhood to be Mt Eden — I remember walking through these streets and feeling something. I asked John if we should open our own little restaurant in Mt Eden village and together we had the idea of bringing fresh handmade pasta to the people — nobody was doing this in Auckland. Today at Pasta & Cuore, we have many people who come just to buy our handmade pasta to cook at home — our idea worked. Mt Eden Village is one of Auckland’s busiest and popular little streets, was it difficult to find an opening here? Yes, with the idea of handmade pasta, our dream of opening this restaurant of ours had begun. Little by little, we took steps to get closer to turning this dream into a reality — we left Titirangi and moved closer to Mt Eden village so that we can understand what the residents of this area are like and get a feel for the village. Everyday we kept our eye on any openings in the village, which was completely full when we first moved — all the shops were taken. The one day, while my daughter Clio was visiting from Bologna, we were taking a walk and we found a shop with the sign “For Rent”. Clio turned to me and said, “This is your shop!”, and I said, “No, this isn’t built to be a restaurant, it is an antique shop”, but she insisted so we gave the owner a call and started to put our business plan together to present to the owner — she wanted to see this before deciding whether she would rent it to us and as you can imagine, there were many other offers of interest. This part was terrible at first, because it is one thing to have a dream, but it is an entirely different thing to understand what you actually need to do to bring it to life, so it was a crazy time in our lives but we figured it out. The owner gave us three months rent-free, and it ended up taking seven months to build because it had to meet all the health and safety requirements for a restaurant. This period was also very stressful because we were paying rent for four months without making any income — but, we had this idea not to cover any of the windows so people could see something was coming. Day

by day, people walking by would ask us what we were doing and soon we put a sign outside to tell them that fresh handmade pasta was coming. I also started my social media accounts before we opened and I would post photos of the mess we were making, and the walls we were breaking — it created a lot of attention for us. Before we opened, we were already booked out and approached by magazines and journalists. The community really came to support us and within the first year we made it to Auckland’s Top Restaurant List. It was all worth it — sometimes you have doubts along the way when times get hard, but if you just believe in yourself and keep going, it will all work out. You must surround yourself with people who believe in you, believe in your dream, and are willing to work with you through the tough times. I have many of those people around me — from John and my family to everyone who works here today, they are like my family too. It really does feel like you are all a big family here. Being so far away from Bologna, how did you find the right people for Pasta & Cuore? We were brought together I think by destiny. For example, one of the older ladies you can see making fresh pasta at the front of the restaurant, she is from my town in Bologna, but I met her here in Auckland. This is a wonderful story — she wrote me a handwritten letter and it said something like this: “Hi Stefania, I am Theresa, I am from Bologna and I live here now with my family, like you. I am very happy that someone has started a restaurant here to bring our food to this country — I miss our flavours and ingredients. I am working in a restaurant in Auckland as a dishwasher right now, and they ask me sometimes to work in the kitchen, but I really cannot mix Kiwi and Italian flavours. I am like you, I want to stay authentic to the food of Bologna. I would really like it if we can meet so that I can have another friend from Bologna.” When she came here to meet me, I asked her one question, “can you make handmade pasta?”, and she said “of course, my grandmother taught me — everyones story of pasta is the same in Bologna, no?”. So I asked her “please, come and work for me — you know my food, you know my roots, so it will be easy to work together because it is in our blood.” And she is still here today, making fresh pasta for us everyday. My head chef, he also comes from Bologna and my waitstaff are usually young people from Italy on a working-holiday visa in New Zealand. They understand what our food should taste like and this really helps me because this is not something you can teach, it is something you must have tasted

all your life growing up. We bring our cured meat straight from Bologna, and the cheese comes straight from Italy from my region, and the tinned tomatoes are Italian. We make it a point to recreate the flavours that you find in my city and make it here and this took me many months to do with the fresh ingredients here — for example, the milk I have to use fresh from New Zealand but the ricotta needs to have the taste of Italy so I have worked very hard with the process and balance of flavours to recreate the taste of Bologna. The flour as well is from New Zealand, so we spent months adjusting my pasta recipe so that the ratio of ingredients was perfect. Different types of wheat and different fat levels in milk, all of this makes a difference in our flavours and food — we have done everything we can to replicate the real flavours of Bologna in our food, using the freshest ingredients available in New Zealand. Without these people, who understand my roots and my food at this level, I cannot do what I do. They are very important to me, to the food we make, and to the experience being authentic for our customers. P: t-shirt question Most people don’t know that Bolognese sauce comes from Bologna — when you point it out it is obvious right? I write this on the back of shirts because I got into a big fight about this — food is sacred to Italians, and everyone says Spaghetti Bolognese is Italian but it is not. The Bolognese sauce was created for a certain shape of pasta, called Tagliatelle and not with meatballs — it is minced meat cooked in a tomatoes for five hours until the sauce is brown because the bolognese sauce has soaked up all the flavour from the meat. If you go to Bologna, and you ask for Spaghetti Bolognese, it is like a crime.

Chef Stefania’s recommendation for dinner for two: Starter: Cured Meat Board, or for vegetarian the Cheese Board or Bruschetta Main: The expression of my city on a plate is Tortellini, with ricotta inside and we serve this dish with two kind of sauces which are typically found in Bologna — Butter and Sage, or Butter and Tomato. You must also try the Tagliatelle Bolognese. Most people don’t know that Bolognese sauce comes from Bologna — when you point it out it is obvious right? On the back of the t-shirts worn by our waitstaff, it says “Spaghetti Bolognese doesn’t exist”, because I got into a big fight about this. If you go to Bologna, and you ask for Spaghetti Bolognese, it is like a crime. Food is sacred to Italians, and everyone says Spaghetti Bolognese is Italian but it is not. The Bolognese sauce was created for a certain shape of pasta, called Tagliatelle, and it is not served with meatballs — it is minced meat cooked in tomatoes for five hours until the sauce is brown because the tomatoes have soaked up all the flavour from the meat. This is the real Bolognese and at Pasta & Cuore you will find the authentic Tagliatelle Bolognese. Dessert: Tiramisu which is the recipe of my grandmother, or Panna Cotta which is the recipe of my mother

FIJITIME

AWARDS

Moffat Salon Culinaire Awards to Top

LOCAL CHEFS By MARIA LAQETA Photos JONE LUVENITOGA

Three young local talents were awarded prizes at the recent Moffat Salon Culinaire Awards held at Jack’s of Fiji Farm in Legalega in Nadi. Outrigger Fiji’s Chef Navneet Reddy walked away with the top award, the Junior Chef of the Year award went to 21-year-old Chef Ravinesh Prasad of Fiji Marriott Resort Momi Bay while another Outrigger Chef Vikash Chetty won the Moffat Pastry Chef of the Year award. The Moffat Salon Culinaire is an annual event organized by the Fiji Chefs Association. The naming rights sponsor Moffat embarked on their 15th year of support for this annual event, proudly supported by Goodman Fielder Fiji, Fiji Gas and Bakels who have been the partners of Fiji Chefs Association since the inception of the association. Goodman Fielder Fiji sponsors this event for the top 3 classes Chef of the Year, Junior Chef of the Year and Pastry Chef of the Year, they are supporters of all events hosted by the Fiji Chefs Association and engaged with the development of the chefs in our evergrowing tourism sector. CHEF RAVI LISTENED TO HIS PARENTS Dhiren Prasad and Subashni Naicker always wanted their 21-year-old son, Ravinesh Prasad, to be a chef since he was a young lad in Kabisi, Nadroga. They believed it would guarantee him a bright future because it was a competitive career and there was strong demand in Fiji resorts. Ravi, the name he prefers, has no regrets about the career decision his parents encouraged him to make. Last year, he was first runner-up Chef of the Year 2017 and scooped the Junior Chef of the Year award during the Moffat Salon Culinaire 2018, held at Jack’s of Fiji Farm in Legalega in Nadi. His career began back at Nadroga Arya College in 2011 and 2012.

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“High school students were given course options and I choose Home Economics to follow my parents wishes.” He went on to at Lomawai Secondary school in 2013-14 as a vocational student, completing the Certificate I & II in Commercial and Cookery and Certificate Year I & II in Tailoring. While studying he worked part time at a bakery to earn $5 a day. “As years went by, my interest in a culinary career started to flourish and I began to explore my potential,” he said. “After graduating from vocational studies, I managed to get employment at Chicken Express in Nadi and spent five months as a fast food chef before going to Plantation Island resort on Malolo lailai in the Mamanuca group in Yasawa.” In 2016, Ravi met Fiji celebrity chef Lance Seeto at the chef competition held in Nadi and managed to work with him as a commis (junior) chef. “He was like a mentor for me. It was a struggle at first but I took it day by day and got to absorb cooking knowledge from him,” he said. “I sincerely thank Mr. Seeto in securing me a job at Mana island resort as commis chef. I spent four solid months there before I get promoted to demi-chef role.” His next career move was to the Malamala Beach Club, a 25-minute boat ride from Port Denarau. He spent ten months serving classic local food, including Kokoda koko, made with smoked coconut milk, and blackened fish tacos, spiced goat curry pie and sea prawn Caesar salad. Here he learned how to introduce local produce into various dishes. In the past year he has been part of the Fiji Marriott Resort Momi Bay culinary team, and is looking forward to future Culinaire competition after the proud moment of success this year. His advice to young fellow chefs is that that hard work and perseverance are the things to master.

PASSION ON A PLATE Chef Navneet Reddy, 26, delivers his passion on plate. He proved himself this year by being named Fiji’s Best Chef at the annual Moffat Salon Culinaire last month, held at the Fiji National University, Namaka Campus by the Fiji Chefs Association. The outspoken chef grew up as the only boy in a family of three. Parents Durga Reddy, 58, and Salochana Reddy, 52, said there had never been a dull moment with young Navneet. With nine years culinary expertise under his belt, Reddy said his dad, now a retired chef, had originally inspired him. “I always admired my father, dressed in his suit before heading off to work at the Warwick Resort on the Coral Coast, Sigatoka, every day. “Little did I know there would come a day I would follow in his footsteps and learn to wear the chef’s jacket.” Reddy started his career in 2009 after deciding to do a one-year course in Cookery at the Fiji National University in Nasese, Suva. “I managed to excel in my studies, then joined the Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort as an apprentice chef and managed to get promoted to ‘Commis (junior) chef ’ in 2011,” he said. “I was under the supervision of executive chef Shailesh Naidu, the most decorated and talented chef of Fiji. Working under his leadership was a dream come true. Not only did he teach me the basics of the kitchen but the entire chef’s cycle and how this industry works.” He did a spell from 2011 to 2012 as commis chef in the Ivi restaurant in the Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort, cooking and serving fine dining in a three course meal, with dishes classified as ‘Fijian authentic with a modern twist’. The following year, he took part in the Junior Chef of the Year competition and won the prestigious Moffat Salon Culinaire 2013 award. In 2014 to 2016 earned promotion from Demi-chef to Chef-de-parte in the Sundowner bar and grill restaurant of the Outrigger and in 2017 to 2018, he was in charge of one of the award winning, and busiest, steak house restaurant. This year he won Fiji Chef of the Year. He has also won a bronze medal in an international chef’s challenge of global chefs in New Zealand. Reddy said his success is a reflection of a passion that comes with the belief that successful cooking doesn’t rely on ‘know how’ but comes from the heart. “It needs enthusiasm and great love for food to bring it to life,” he said. Reddy advised upcoming chefs to practice daily on day-to-day operations and work hard towards guest satisfaction, meeting high hygiene standards.

Reddy is currently a sous chef at the Outrigger Fiji beach resort. HUMBLE CHEF Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort’s Vikash Chetty won the Moffat Salon Culinaire Pastry Chef of the Year award. The Sigatoka lad aged thirty-two years old with colourful career started his journey as a kitchen hand without qualifications. Since joining the Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort team in late 2012, executive Pastry Chef Chetty has been committed to hand crafting 100 per cent of all the pastry and bakery items produced in his kitchen. Chef Chetty who was born and raised close to the resort now prides himself of developing the next generation of pastry Chefs working tirelessly to teach local apprentices and pass on his craft. “For a year I cleaned pots, plates and cutlery and as part of my journey my other chefs used to encouraged me to study,” Mr. Chetty said. “But all along I always believed in myself. That I will reach my destiny despite all odds,” he said. Chetty’s passion for the career made him to create his own destiny starting from scratch and has allowed the team at Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort to be an industry leader when it comes to catering to guest’s dietary requirements. As part of his achievement, chef Chetty is also a winner for Pastry chef of the year in 2008 at the Moffat salon Culinaire and again after 10 years he gave a go to test his caliber, so proves again that he is a finest pastry chef in Fiji. “For me being nominated and won the competition is not about winning or losing, its about learning,” he smiled. “I will always tell my team the two secret ingredients to put on plate is love and passion for food,” chef Chetty smiled. He sincere thanked Chef Shailesh Naidu, executive chef Outrigger and entire Outrigger team chefs for the support and even his family as part of his journey to success. Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort’s executive chef Shailesh Naidu, said the resort’s performance was a pleasing from a very young team. “The team delivered outstanding results and the comments from judges were phenomenal and this years benchmark has been raised by the Outrigger chefs in all the major categories and Navneet Reddy [2018 Moffat Salon Culinaire Chef of the Year] and Vikash Chetty will represent Fiji at the 2019 Global Chefs semifinal in Melbourne, Australia,” he said. Currently, Vikash Chetty is the Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort’s Head Pastry chef.

FIJITIME

TOWN GUIDE

Main Street, Tavua

Taste of

TAVUA By GAIA SEGANTIN Photos by FEROZ KHALIL Driving King’s Road on the northern side of Fiji’s main island of Viti Levu is one of the best ways to get deep into authentic Fiji. In February 2016, the worst cyclone ever in the southern hemisphere hit this side of the island and devastated it. Homes, crops and trees were destroyed and some people are still living in tents while restoration work continues with the help of governments and aid agencies. Driving by, the damage is apparent and people can truly understand the extent of such a natural disaster. About four hours from Suva is Tavua town, located 91km from Nadi and 9km from the gold mining township of Vatukoula. The weather tends to be hotter and dryer than in Suva, and definitely sunnier. According to the locals, the best thing to eat is ‘Tandoori Fried Chicken’. The Tandoori is a local restaurant serving vegetarian food and chicken fried rice, chicken with fries, and pizza, all tasty. It’s fairly basic, but with good service. Tavua’s main thoroughfares have many thrift shops and small cafes, as well as those stores catering to the needs of farming households. The market is a central spot, a busy hub for local producers who have been growing vegetables in the area for many years. A Tavua woman explained the many and varied types of chili, from the small but very spicy one to the bigger

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but not so “whew!” There is also an excellent choice of yaqona, the traditional Fijian kava brew made from dried roots. Behind the market there is a ‘club’ area where men of Tavua meet daily after work to drink kava. Long benches and tables accommodate all comers in the cooling afternoon, to exchange the news of the day and evaluate the ‘grog’ brew with expert taste. At the end of the school day, students pour into the sleepy streets of Tavua and everything suddenly becomes extremely lively. People are welcoming and become more relaxed as the end of the working day approaches, hanging out in town and around the market for the last hour or two. The students congregate in big groups to chat and laugh in the bright afternoon. Regular buses go from Suva along King’s Road and a leisurely ride is a pleasant way to experience a routine day of real Fijian life and to discover real Fijian towns. Tavua is colorful; people are friendly and curious to talk to visitors, making it a taste of authentic Fiji far from the usual tourist attractions. STAY  TAVUA HOTEL A two story white wooden building a short walking distance from Tavua Town, Tavua Hotel has long been the only hotel in town. Located opposite the local hospital, the 16-room hotel also hosts a small restaurant and bar and also

swimming pool. Nabuna Rd, Tavua, Fiji Phone: +679 668 0522 VATIA BEACH ECO-RESORT  About 10 minutes’ drive from the town, Vatia is an eco-resort with a pleasant beachfront. Vatia Beach is surrounded by nothing but nature and only 90 minutes by shuttle from Nadi International Airport, located on the north side of the main Fiji Island of Viti Levu. The resort is located 2 km up Vatia Road, which runs o the main Kings Road. The intersection is 20 km from Ba Town and 10 km from Tavua. Vatia Road, Tavua| Po Box 1929 Ba, Fiji | Tel: +(679) 625 47 37 | bookings@vatiabeach. GOLDEN POINT RESORT Popular with those “in the know”, Golden Point is a little off the tourist radar about 20 minutes away. But those that are lucky enough to find this place often extend their stay, and return again. Golden Point offers home-style accommodation options on the waterfront that perfectly match the laid back surroundings. Nacilau Point Rakiraki, Kings Rd, 718, Fiji Phone: +679 620 5252 Tavua is about 1 hour 20 mins drive from Nadi Airport

Fresh vegetables at the market

Dried Kava roots for sale

The popular sweets cart along Main Street

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GUIDE

Top Ten Under $10 A Guide to the Food Markets

OF SUVA By PHOEBE SCHENK Illustrations by ALBERT ROLLS

Fiji may be internationally renowned for its distinctive brand of water, but its food markets also house a treasure trove of culinary delights that remains one of the South Pacific’s best kept secrets. Any visit to Suva’s Municipal market promises immediate sensory overload; the vibrancy of colours, smells, and – in true Fijian style – smiles welcome you with warmth to the bustling hub of the capital. Not only unrivalled in freshness, Suva’s markets are unbeaten on price: for $10 and under, expect to taste an array of local produce, or even try some you wouldn’t usually find at home for an authentic and unmissable experience. ‘We have to serve with a smile’, Veronica Eleta beams as she hands over a bundle of fruit. ‘That is the way the world should be.’ Indeed, one trip to the market will have you coming away with smiles of your own. Roti $1 No market visit would be complete without trying one of the infamous Roti. A flatbread with a variety of fillings – the most popular I am informed is tuna, curry and cassava – locals and tourists alike can be seen scarfing one down. For just a dollar, you can’t go wrong for a deliciously homely-tasting wrap. Parcels $2-3 each Neatly presented, the parcels lined up along the first row of kiosks also provide a perfectly packaged meal for on-the-go: cassava in a lightly spiced sauce, accompanied by a fluffy egg, fish or sausage. Though the combination may seem slightly unusual, sceptics are encouraged to try for themselves – a tasty and filling lunch is guaranteed. Corn $1 ‘Good for your teeth,’ Vilimoni Samu grins as he carefully peels open an ear of corn. Boiled last night and brought to the market this morning from Sigatoka, it is freshly peeled and still warm as I bite into it. Though he doesn’t come to the market every year, this year’s bumper crop is not to be missed, and the savoury snack is definitely a firm favourite of many. Juice 30-80 cents The juice stands form a small area of their own opposite the bus station. Here travellers from all distances can be found swapping stories as they drink from an eclectic collection of crystal glasses containing a variety

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of juices. Freshly pressed each morning, the Mandarin can be especially recommended for ice-cold refreshment. Barfi $1 for a small bag Though Ashika insists the Jalebi are her best seller, her colourful Barfi form stiff competition. What they lack in size, they more than make up for in flavour – moreish fudge-like squares that melt in the mouth and will have you asking for another handful. Fruit from 50 cents ($2.50 coconut, $2 for 10 papayas, $1 pineapple) From mouth-watering pineapples expertly carved into impressive shapes to heaps upon heaps of golden papayas, the market in Suva offers an unparalleled selection of tropical fruits. The longest running stall has been trading locally-sourced produce for over 15 years. A particular stand out are the young coconuts, filled to the brim with water incomparable with any store-bought alternative. Cassava cake/Coconut pie $2 and $1 respectively For those with a sweet tooth, the lurid yellow icing of the Coconut Pies draws the eye from a distance. However, the garish colour disguises a delicate and moist sponge that will satisfy any sugar craving. The much-talked about Cassava cake should also be tasted for those that prefer a stickier, syrup-like texture. Bila 50 cents These banana leaf rolls may look unsuspecting to the eye, but house a blend of coconut milk and cassava, that, while popular with locals, will no doubt divide in a love-hate relationship that may not be to everyone’s taste. But you’ll certainly have to try it to see what side you fall on.

Spices range from $4.50-15.00/kg, but can get bags as small as 50 cents Not to be overlooked, the second level of the market offers a plethora of herbs and spices that populate nearly every dish served in Suva. The overwhelming amounts of flavour will suit both lovers of spice and those who enjoy a more milder taste, and are certainly worthy of our Top 10. Kava powdered bags from $5-70 As the national drink, Kava is must for any trip to Fiji. Freshly ground from yaqona grown in Vanua Levu, I watch as Hemant Kumar mixes what he proclaims ‘the strongest Kava in Suva’, and accept the coconut shell with hearty ‘Bula!’ It is easy to see why Kava is so loved: the earthy taste left me with my lips tingling and a smile on my face – though you’d need to be brave to finish the whole tanoa.

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TRIP

Mid year food foray around

VITI LEVU By SEONA SMILES Photos by ALLAN STEPHENS & NAZIAH ALI Sitting in the shade of a roadside stall, dribbling sticky green coconut water down my neck and arm in a hurry to get to the sweet jelly flesh – how much better can it be? Maybe sitting in the warm Pacific sucking on a mango, but it isn’t yet mango season (between November to February). Whatever the season, making a food foray around Fiji’s main island, Viti Levu, is an utterly splendid way of seeing the scenic spots while sampling the gastronomic delights. We couldn’t have picked a better weekend,

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despite it being a holiday meant some of the cafes were closed and resorts booked out. But the sun was shining, the sky was blue and almost cloudless for a change, and we had a reliable car to take us wandering at will. Our travel plans began with skipping breakfast so we could munch what goodies we could find en route. It wasn’t much of a plan, but then you hardly need an elaborate strategy to find fine food in Fiji. We began on King’s Road, possibly the less travelled route although the traffic is increasing now the new highway has been completed, giving a smooth and pleasant ride.

Sigatoka Market

Our focus was the mini markets and roadside produce stalls that featured the specialties of each locality. That it was still duruka season (usually between April to June) soon became obvious. Duruka is a Fiji vegetable, the unopened ‘flower’ of a type of grass or cane. It is tightly wrapped in a cocoon of slightly furry green leaves that is peeled open to reveal the firm, white edible part a little thicker than a thumb and two or three lengths of a finger long. It is traditionally cooked lightly in coconut cream, or crumbled and combined with tinned fish for a lightly flavoured curry. Whatever way, it is welcomed with delight each season.

Duruka season is from April to June

Sigatoka Market

Mango season is from November to February

Duruka is sold in bundles of 10 or 12, tied together at the top by their leaves and stood in tempting rows along the roadway. We eyed them like professionals, felt the stems to estimate how plump they were, and finally bought a fine, fresh bundle that had just been cut. Fortunately we hit banana territory not long after starting to feel peckish. My preference are the small, plump ones known as ladyfingers or sugar bananas, although the larger ones have a delicious flavour. Fiji people justifiably claim that nobody’s bananas taste better, and if you have eaten those cut green and artificially ripened for supermarket shelves, you’d know the difference. Another speciality of the northern route is the avocado. They come straight from tree to stall, carefully picked and no bumping around in the back of a carrier van to the town markets. We found smooth, gleaming, green pears piled on plastic plates for an indecently modest sum that had us greedily grabbing and then stowing gently on the back seat. Another day or so and they would make my favourite breakfast of avocado on toast with salt and pepper, or a splendid salad, or a winning combination with chicken or scrambled egg.

The trick is not to forget that you tucked them in a dim corner or inside a paper bag to complete ripening; there is almost nothing sadder in a kitchen than a soggy brown avocado that once held promise of such indulgent delights. I scored a bowl of chillies, the long, thin kind I like best, that add pep to anything from avocado to goat curry – a dish we succumbed to along the way at a small restaurant in Vaileka. A handsome string of crabs drove us onward to a friendly kitchen on an organic farm near Nadi, after a quick stop at the famed Bhika Bhai to buy Indian sweets for dessert. The farm gave us eggplant and okra (baigan and bhindi), pineapple and pawpaw, grapefruit and limes, and all manner of herbs as well as the indispensable mature coconuts needed for making coconut cream for the crab curry and duruka. On our homeward journey along Queen’s Road, I shopped the stalls for long beans, also known as snake beans, that are best fried gently with a little garlic and salt. There were also tasty orange kumala, the slightly nutty flavoured sweet potatoes that are delicious roasted. Sigatoka market is almost a compulsory stop, this time in a vain search for the much-used

Indian herb, dhania, that looks a little like flat leaf parsley. Instead we got a bundle of the broadleafed variety that looks nothing like the other sort but has the right smell and is called wild dhania. I also got a bundle of ota, fern leaves, that are crunchy and delicious when lightly cooked in coconut cream. All along the way there were heaps of ivi nuts, described as tropical chestnuts that are usually boiled and make a favourite seasonal snack. Paying $1 or $2 a heap, $3 or $4 a bunch or even $5 or $6 a bundle for fruit and vegies brings a few moans and some feeble attempts to bargain down but hey, people pay as much for a single cup of coffee. I resisted a string of fish – I had a fine, fat saqa caught in the sea just off the farm friend’s front verandah that was destined for the baking dish. But honestly, by the time I got home and unloaded the bounty from the car, lugged it upstairs and stowed it away in refrigerator and pantry, I was almost too tired to cook. Thank goodness for the latest reviving cocktail recipe from our friend’s farm: red grapefruit, basil leaves and rather a lot of gin.

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NATUREt

Keeping you together

IN STYLE

By RUTH CORNISH Photos Feroz Khalil I follow the signs for Fiji Spice Gardens along the dirt track off of Queens Road and make my way up the drive. I am greeted by a young Fijian man who introduces himself as my guide, Vito. He tells me he has worked on the farm for as long as he remembers and knows it like the back of his hand. An impressive feat as the farm spans over a huge 48 acres of land. “Managing it is a big job,” Vito admits. We walk down to the farm. Without even opening my eyes I can tell where I am. All the spices mingle together creating a delightful scent. Vito stops at a tree and peels off some of its red bark. He hands it to me and tells me to smell it. “Cinnamon?” I ask, almost tasting Christmas. Vito smiles and nods. Vito continues to pick out various seeds, buds, leaves and barks that made the spices, allowing me to smell, feel and even taste some of them. This gives the tour of the farm an immersive feature, allowing me to be completely engrossed in the experience. I am also made aware of different plant’s histories. Pointing towards a large leafy tree Vito tells me, ‘That is a Vandra Tree. If you shoot an arrow at one of its fruits and the fruit falls, your girl is seeing someone else. If it stays on the branch, she is faithful.’ And what if you miss altogether? I ask, noting the sizeable distance from where we are standing to the tree. ‘We don’t miss,’ Vito says simply, and begins to walk on. Are the spices the only thing the farm is home to? I ask. Vito tells me there is wildlife too, lots of different birds, some boars and snakes. Wait, snakes? ‘Yes. Cobras and red snakes.’ Vito tells me, and then seeing my face says, ‘don’t worry there aren’t any too close by.’ Not entirely reassured, I make a mental note to tread a little more carefully. Vito manoeuvres around the farm expertly, as he lifts vines, and sweeps through shrubs, his bare feet seem to know exactly where to step. Unfortunately I’m not quite as able as the spice farmer. Having ditched the flip flops after getting them stuck in mud for the umpteenth time, my feet are covered in a thick layer of dirt. As I wonder how Vito’s bare feet are spotless after we have been following the exact same path, we stop at a small river. He steps into the clear water and motions me to join him. ‘To wash your feet,’ he says. I edge towards the river. ‘Don’t worry, no snakes!’ Vito laughs. I leave the farm with a Hibscus flower in my hair and a variety of different smelling flowers, buds and seeds in my pocket. Back up at

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their office Vito asks me if I would like to buy any of their freshly grown spices. It’s strange to see them all packeted up, in their usual ground up form after seeing them all as flourishing and colourful plants in the farm. I pick some black pepper and promise to be back soon. Fiji Spice Gardens is one of Fiji’s hidden gems. Very much worth the short taxi ride from Pacific Harbour, the farm boasts a variety of different spices and tropical plants. The land has been a working spice farm for over twenty five years now and has recently opened its gates to the public and started providing guided tours. If you want to experience some real Fijian nature and culture, it’s definitely worth a visit. Contact: It is best to call ahead of visiting. Call (679) 336 2851 or email spices@connect.com.fj Location: Wainadoi Gardens. Off Queens Road. Opposite ZipFiji. Price: $10 per person for a tour. Getting there: Transfers from resorts in Pacific Harbour available. Approx. $30 in taxi from Pacific Harbour.

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INDULGE

SPA LIFE in Fiji

By MARINA KAY A treasure trove in the tropics, Fiji is home to an abundance of natural ingredients—green coconut, white gingerlily, deep sea plants. Add to that a culture rich in traditional therapies, with wellbeing placed at the forefront of healthy living, and you have a spa destination made. These are the top spas in the archipelago. PURE FIJI DAY SPA Pure Fiji is the only cosmetic manufacturer in the South Pacific and produces premium natural products from its custom-built factory in Suva, Fiji’s capital city. The brand’s line of small-batch beauty products made with antioxidant- and enzyme-rich local ingredients—from coconut to macadamia nut oil—is available throughout the world. However, only in Suva can experience treatments at its dedicated spa sanctuary. Nominated as best spa in the 4th Annual World Spa Awards, and renowned among spa professionals and corporate travelers, Pure Fiji Day Spa is comprehensive in its spa offerings, which are highlighted by Signature Rituals that reflect the spirit and traditions of the islands: the combination of dilo nut exfoliation, ginger root masque, and lymphatic drainage massage in the Herbal Detox boosts circulation and metabolism; a Royal Coconut Milk and Honey Firming Ritual uses Fijian honey and fresh coconut milk to hydrate and brighten the skin. In pursuit of holistic wellness, Pure Fiji recently launched an on-site Zenergy Yoga and Fitness Studio, open to its staff and the public. What’s most inspiring is that through such efforts, the company not only promotes the rich resources of its natural environment, but also positively impacts the people and economies of local communities from where the raw materials are sourced. purefiji.com

Pure Fiji Hair and Scalp treatment. Photo: CHRIS MCLENNAN

Pure Fiji Relaxation. Photo: CHRIS MCLENNAN

KORO SUN RESORT, RAINFOREST SPA Just a quick flight hop from Nadi to Savusavu on the island of Vanua Levu is all that’s required to reach lovely Koro Sun Resort, home to its one-of-akind Rainforest Spa. Set in a lush Fijian jungle with waterfalls are three treatment bures, adorned with candles and lanterns and decorated with giant ferns. In addition to the Pure Fiji line, products used during our spa treatments are made with natural, homegrown ingredients including organic papaya, aloe vera, and cucumber. By far, the spa’s most popular treatment is the Banana Leaf Body Wrap, recommended for those needing to curb stress and jet lag. It includes being swaddled in detoxifying leaves sourced from the spa’s very own banana trees. The exfoliating Sensational Scrub makes for an ideal follow-up, made with coconut shavings supplied by a neighbouring plantation. korosunresort.com

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Koro Spa honey almond treatment. Photo: CHRIS MCLENNAN

LOMANA SPA & WELLNESS CENTRE , NANUKU AUBERGE RESORT Located on the southern coast of Viti Levu Island, Nanuku Auberge Resort is situated on Pacific Harbour, deemed the island nation’s “Adventure Capital”. To balance days spent in the surf and sun, the boutique resort offers peace and tranquility at its Lomana Spa & Wellness Centre. Therapists are trained in myriad treatments, from hydrating facials to massages, including the traditional Bobo, whose unique techniques—“thumbing, kneading, and knuckling using the fingertips, forearms and elbows”— are passed down from generation to generation. This is an ancient body treatment that is tailored to the individual and is especially healing. New to Nanuku is its Treetop Spa ‘Treet’ments’, arranged on a treetop platform, lulling guests into complete relaxation as they enjoy the sea breeze and sounds of the calming Pacific Ocean. Also, just introduced is the King & Queen Bee Experience. This immersive three-part journey includes a visit to the Nanuku Hive, home to 2,000 bees including the Queen Bee, Adi Kamica (translation: ‘Sweet Queen’), followed by either a Honey Firming Facial or Massage at Lomana Spa, and later, a honey-based cocktail at sunset and five-course honeythemed degustation dinner for two at Nanuku’s Kanavata Restaurant. Bliss! nanuku.aubergeresorts.com QUAN SPA, MARRIOTT MOMI BAY Located on an unspoiled bay between the Coral Coast and Denarau, just a 45-minute drive from Nadi, is Fiji Marriott Resort Momi Bay. It’s home to Quan Spa— Quan means a source of pure water, be it from a spring, fountain, or spa. With this in mind, guests are welcomed into the hushed spa environment sheathed in soothing décor and visuals of water. Product lines used in treatments are ocean inspired: Thalgo is created with sea ingredients; Pure Fiji champions local ingredients grown in and around Pacific waters. A signature spa treatment is its Heart of the Ocean Facial, which includes a Hydra Marine, Cold marine, or Purite ritual; gentle exfoliation; and signature massage simulating the soothing motions of the sea. Two of the six treatment rooms are fitted for couples, featuring private plunge pools and settings for services such as Coconut Lime Blossom Couples Retreat or Couples Indulgence Experience. Given its location, extensive services, and amenities, Marriott Momi

Bay is an ideal destination for gatherings, and specialises in hens gatherings and weddings: Quan Spa’s salon offers a Totoka Ritual to nourish the scalp and hair, and bridal packages that include up styling and make-up for the wedding day. fijimarriott.com YAUKUVE SPA SANCTUARY, KOKOMO ISLAND Envisioned by renowned Australian property developer Lang Walker, Kokomo Island was designed with an ecoconscious mindset and combines tradition and six-star luxury with wellness. At its heart, surrounded by tropical gardens and the sounds of water, is The Yaukuve Spa Sanctuary. It features a relaxation pavilion—the perfect place to start and end your spa journey—that leads to nine treatment rooms and a dedicated Hammam-inspired body therapy bure for new Hammam new and dry treatments, the only services of their kind to be offered in Fiji. Traditional therapies are also available, such as Pacific mastery massage, rejuvenating facial therapies—a Thermal Botanical Facial using volcanic clay; the Mineral Marine Repair, rich in spirulina and seaweed extracts—and the Kokomo seashell massage. Unique to the Pacific islands and popular at Kokomo, it uses warmed seashells to help relieve muscle stress, aches, and pains. To prolong the effects of relaxation, yoga, meditation, and Pilates classes are offered to restore balance and harmony to mind, body, and spirit. kokomoislandfiji. com SIX SENSES SPA FIJI The newest property in the Six Senses portfolio opened earlier this year on Malolo Island, part of the Mamanuca archipelago. Situated on a secluded bay, the luxurious retreat takes in golden sand beaches, ocean vistas, and a tropical jungle, which surrounds the Six Senses Spa Fiji. Design here is paramount: By creating a spa and wellness area inspired by a traditional Fijian village, Six Senses stays true to its philosophy that health and well-being are positively linked to the calming and rejuvenating effects of nature. The spa’s arrival lounge is configured with a consultation room, nail bar, and gorgeous wood-clad retail section. There’s an alchemy bar where guests can blend their own ingredients, four treatment bures, a fitness center, hot and cold whirlpools, a jungle gym, and an elevated treetop yoga and meditation pavilion. sixsenses.com

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ROMANCE

A Spot of

ROMANCE By SIAN ROLLS If your New year’s resolution was to get hitched or a getaway for some real one-on-one time, FijiTime has picked three romantic destinations that offer stunning views as backdrops for cute couple pics or just to enjoy the moment, not to mention miles of beach for hand-holding walks or other public displays of affection. Whether you want a dreamy honeymoon spot or just need to relax, indulge yourself at these places CLOUD 9 If you and that special someone are already floating on the metaphorical Cloud Nine, the best place for you to head is Fiji’s Cloud 9. Not only is it a heaven-on-earth for windsurfers, but for all lovers who feel the romantic pull of the big wide blue. A perfect place to soak up the sun and appreciate the waters, not to mention wet your beak at the fully licensed bar and grab a bite of the Teppanyaki BBQ and wood fired pizza. Moored on Ro Ro reef, find your way there by speedboat from Port Denarau, Musket Cove Resort, Lomani Resort or Plantation Resort. cloud9.com.fj

nerves by looking over the water and breathing in the ocean air, taking a walk through the forest or head for a relaxing session at the Rainforest Spa. Once you’re soothed and calm, you can enjoy saying your vows with all the trimmings your heart desires. The team at Koro Sun looks after all the details, from special dress requests, flower arrangements and cakes and can even organise an underwater wedding. We recommend tying the knot under the canopy of the beautiful Koro Sun rainforest, where a tinkling waterfall, stream and the songs of native birds create a special atmosphere. Korosunresort.com MANA ISLAND For a wedding by the beach or a beach side chapel, Mana Island is the place. To celebrate the beginning of the rest of your lives together of for a special renewal of your vows, Mana makes sure you have all the magic you need for your romantic moment. Mana Island also takes pride in its photo shoots, so you can immortalise your beachside celebrations the way it really was. . Manafiji.com

LELEUVIA ISLAND RESORT Nestled between Ovalau and Bau, a 35 minute boat ride will take you to Leleuvia Island. Beautiful in a way that inspired a million and one paradise island cliches , the resort is not only a pretty beach, but a great place to totally chillax and live the casual lifestyle of a barefoot bar, good food, private bure accommodation, lots of water activities and plenty of snooze time on the sand – all so close to the capital, Suva. Leleuvia.com CAPTAIN COOK CRUISES all you want is a special night on the water, Captain Cook Cruises offers a dinner package. Setting sail out of Denarau marina, the vessel takes you for several leisurely hours way out on the ocean for some exclusive alone time. Just add lobster to your menu and enjoy the fruits of the sea on this romantic cruise. Captaincook.com.fj KORO SUN RESORT If your priority is photographs and memories that look as wonderful as you feel on the day, the Koro Sun Resort and Spa in Savusavu provides a brilliant setting. Aptly promoted as the place “where the rainforest meets the reef” it has picturesque views both day and night. Get over those wedding

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WEDDING If a wedding is on the top of your to-do list for 2019, the event could be made even more special at Koro Sun Resort or Mana Island with a romantic ceremony just for two, or well organized celebrations with your nearest and dearest.

ADVENTURE

Explore Fijiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s underwater world like Natewa Bay on page 52. Photo SARA CARLSON

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NATURE

Hermit

CRABS Words & Images by PADDY RYAN Perhaps you’ve stayed at one of Fiji’s wonderful resorts? If so, the chances are that you’ve been into a little gambling. Typically, you’ll have bet on a race, usually with giant toads as the “runners”. But on some of the offshore islands where the toads are thankfully absent, a different kind of critter is roped in. Hermit crabs reach high densities and are easy to find so they make the perfect “horses”. Hermit crabs inhabit a variety of environments ranging from lowland rainforest into the ocean depths. They range in size from the tiny to the largest of all the terrestrial arthropods, the coconut crab. Unfortunately, coconut crabs taste good, so they are now rare on inhabited islands. Large coconut crabs (usually male) may have a leg span of up to 0.91m (3 feet) and weigh 4.1 kg (9lbs). There are many myths associated with coconut crabs, some of which I helped perpetuate until I became better educated. Perhaps the most pervasive is that coconut crabs climb coconut palms and cut off a nut using their powerful pincers. No one has ever managed to film this, and it seems dubious that it occurs. It is highly likely however that a ripe nut that would have fallen anyway is released. Once the nut is on the ground the crab can and does strip away the fibrous husk and then attacks one of the three depressions at the end of the nut. One of these is functional and penetrable and is the exit point for the growing seedling. Once the pore is opened the crab can either continue to enlarge the hole or simply pick out flesh using a smaller set of claws. Coconut crabs, also known as robber crabs, are basically vegetarian but will feed opportunistically on dead animals as well as each other. There are records of a coconut crab attacking and eating a booby bird and another one of killing and eating a Polynesian rat. While stories abound of coconut crabs being able to cut off a finger their chelae (pincers) are not sharp enough to do this. They can pinch hard and hang on tenaciously. Apparently tickling their underparts will encourage then to let go. Fortunately, I have no personal knowledge of this procedure. Coconut crabs may well be endangered by harvesting them for food. They are long-lived and grow slowly so stocks take a while to replenish. I can understand why people like to eat them. They taste really good. I have eaten coconut crab on Rennell Island in the Solomon Islands. The locals don’t eat them because of their religious beliefs and several of the ecolodges farm them. Penned in by unclimbable roofing iron walls they are fed household

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food wastes and the occasional coconut. While it may sound hypocritical I would urge you not to eat them except in Rennell Island where the population is quite safe. How do they taste? Like

Blocking the aperture not only deters predators but also seals in moisture which is particularly important when a female is carrying eggs. In a fascinating study on the tiny island of Ugaga

releases its grip on the substrate. The anemone is then placed on top of the shell. Octopuses eat hermit crabs and it is believed that the presence of anemones deters attack. When the hermit

coconut flavored crab. As with all terrestrial hermit crabs, coconut crabs must return to the sea to release their eggs. These hatch and the crab undergoes several planktonic stages before settling out on the bottom and seeking out a small shell with which to protect their vulnerable abdomen. As they grow bigger they must seek larger and larger shells. Once they are big enough they ditch the shell and thicken and calcify their exoskeleton and are then safe from potential predators. Coconut crabs, Birgus latro to scientists, have adapted well to life on land. They possess a branchiostegal lung, essentially highly vascularized tissue. The rearmost legs are tiny and can be used to clean the lung which is adapted to air rather than water. Because the lung must be kept moist for the crab to breathe, coconut crabs tend to live in burrows during the day and only come out at night or on rainy days. Ironically coconut crabs drown if they stay in water too long as the lung doesn’t work well in water. The crabs used for racing are typically members of the genus Coenobita, gale in Fijian. Like the coconut crab these crabs spend nearly all of their life on land where they scavenge organic matter. C. rugosus is the most common of these crabs while the red C. perlatus, ugadamu in Fijian is less frequently encountered. Many terrestrial hermit crabs have a ridge on their pincer and can make rasping noises by rubbing it against their host shell. All hermit crabs must change their shell as they grow but during their occupancy they change the shape of their shell. The entrance becomes more rounded while the shell itself thins, perhaps through repeated abrasion or through bodily secretions. The result is a shell that is lighter to carry and with an aperture that can be more precisely blocked by the large pincer of the crab.

in the Beqa lagoon, Katherine Szabo of the University of Wollongong investigated shells from an ancient midden (essentially a rubbish dump). She found that 63% of all shells in the midden had been inhabited by hermit crabs and that figure reached 85% of the four most preferred species. Here is a quote from the abstract of her paper. At Ugaga, hermit crabs were found to have removed the majority of shells from the midden and had deposited their old, worn shells in return. The behavioural ecology of genus Coenobita suggests a mutualistic interaction whereby humans make available shell and food resources to hermit crabs, which in turn provide a site cleaning service by consuming human and domestic waste. This is an extraordinary finding. Of course, the mutualism is unintentional, but it is a fascinating concept. Not only did the midden provide the hermits with food but also a continual, reliable supply of shells of just the right type. When shells of “just the right type” are not available hermits will avail themselves of whatever is available. There are stories of hermit crabs in the Solomon Islands using Second World War cartridge cases as shells, tinkling melodically as they trudge around the beach forests. I photographed a hermit crab in Fiji using a red plastic detergent bottle cap as a shelter so they are quite adaptable to their surroundings. Hermit crabs in water have fewer challenges than their terrestrial counterparts. They don’t have to worry about water loss for one and there are many different shells available to them because the “fit” isn’t as important. But they may still face challenges from competitors and predators. One species, the anemone hermit crab, attaches live anemones to the top of its shell. It locates an anemone and taps and caresses it until it

has outgrown its shell, it is forced to find a new one. After successful occupation, the hermit painstakingly removes all the anemones from the old shell and puts them on a new one. I have seen six anemones on one crab. In the Sea of Cortez there is a hermit crab that lives in a staghorn coral colony. I was diving here and was amazed to see a coral move along the bottom. Intrigued, I moved closer and spied hermit crab eyes peering from underneath. Although you aren’t supposed to touch marine creatures, my scientific curiosity got the better of me and I picked the coral up and turned it over. The hermit had retreated into a cavity in the coral where its large pincer made a perfect trapdoor. There is another symbiosis at work here, one we know little about yet. For me, one of the most fascinating of the hermit crabs are the coral-dwelling Paguritta species. These tiny crabs (less than a cm) may be completely overlooked by divers, yet they are quite common here in Fiji. They live inside tubes in massive corals. The tubes are probably made by the crab itself, but some species may live in abandoned worm tubes. These tiny crabs have finely divided antennae and they poke these into the water above their holes. The antennae serve as nets and filter organic material from the water. Captive specimens will sometimes use their pincers to manipulate larger food items. Hermit crabs are fascinating beasties and well worth closer examination. Next time you snorkel, or dive keep an eye out for the coral-dwelling hermits. While you enjoy some of that tropical sunshine on a Fijian beach watch for gale. You may be surprised by some of the interactions you see.

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DIVE

The Weird and

WONDERFUL Words and images by MATHEW NORMAN & SARA CARLSON Many visitors already know of Fiji’s status as the ‘soft coral capital of the world’ thanks to myriad of beautiful soft corals found on our pristine coral reefs. Savusavu, on Vanua Levu, provides some of the greatest accessibility to this underwater world in the whole of Fiji, whether by snorkelling or SCUBA diving. As expected with such a healthy marine ecosystem, visitors can see schools of vibrant reef fish of almost every colour imaginable, along with charismatic creatures such as sharks, turtles, and rays. What may come as more of a surprise to many, however, is the sheer variety of exotic and unusual animals that can be found in the reefs around Savusavu. Species so weird and wonderful that discerning visitors are attracted from around the world to catch a glimpse or to try to capture that once-in-a-lifetime photograph. Demonstrating that many of the highlights of the underwater world around Savusavu can be accessed by the majority of visitors, all of the photos in this article have been taken in water shallower than 10m (30ft) with many taken whist snorkelling. Being close to the surface means more light is available to emphasize the vivid colours, and many of the most interesting subjects are actually found in shallow water anyway. Best of all, this environment and its inhabitants can be seen without investing in thousands of dollars worth of equipment and training. Being comfortable in the water, having patience, and trying to be as unintrusive as possible will enhance your own experience, provide more rewarding interactions, and greater opportunity for high quality photos. Most importantly, we minimize contact with the reef and avoid touching any marine organism, as many are sensitive to contact and prone to diseases and damage. Many of these creatures make great subjects for underwater photographers as they are generally less mobile than reef fish or sharks, and will often stay motionless unless they are unduly disturbed. Amongst the most fascinating and unusual of all marine creatures are mantis shrimp, a type of marine crustacean. The eyes of mantis shrimp are mounted on mobile stalks and can move independently of each other. They are thought to have the most complex eyes in the animal kingdom and the most complex visual system ever

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Close up of ornate ghost pipefish, Natewa Bay. Photo: MATTHEW NORMAN

Ornate ghost pipefish sheltering in a sea fan, Natewa Bay. Photo: SARA CARLSON

discovered (having between 12 and 16 types of photoreceptor cells compared to the three types possessed by humans), with some species being able to tune the sensitivity of their colour vision to their environment. Mantis shrimp also possess one of the fastest strikes in the animal kingdom, at speeds of 83kph (51mph), with either rapidly unfolding ‘clubs’ or ‘spears’ that can inflict serious damage on victims significantly greater than their own size. Frogfish and scorpionfish are ambush predators and masters of disguise, blending in effortlessly with the environment around them. Frogfish have the ability to remain motionless for hours, lying in wait for any unsuspecting prey to be tempted by the ‘lure’ located on an antenna on their forehead, and are capable of pouncing with barely perceivable speed and swallowing whole prey almost their own size. Related to seahorses, ghost pipefishes and pipefishes must rank as some of the most exotic creatures found in the shallow water of the IndoPacific. Ghost pipefish, which are no longer than 15cm (6’), float almost motionless facing

Peacock mantis shrimp in burrow, Natewa Bay . Photo: MATTHEW NORMAN

downwards whilst feeding on tiny crustaceans, camouflaged against a backdrop of either coral or algae. It is believed that they live an annual life cycle, spent mostly in the open ocean as larvae, before finding an area on a coral reef or sandy bottom to breed. Around Savusavu there are many easily accessible sites that are home to those creatures already mentioned, plus other fascinating marine animals such as brightly coloured nudibranchs, shrimp, giant clams, sea cucumbers, octopus, jellyfish, and worms. The weird and wonderful can be found on sand, amongst broken coral rubble, or on healthy living reefs. If you snorkel the famous Split Rock in Savusavu Bay, make sure to explore the shallower reefs nearby in search of scorpionfish and pipefish. Ghost pipefish can be found hiding among the stunning sea fans of Natewa Bay, and the healthy reefs there are home to an unimaginable array of species. Even the seemingly deserted sandy bottoms often provide wonderful sightings of creatures like mantis shrimp and garden eels. Photography can be an important tool in

Feather star perched on reef, Natewa Bay. Photo: SARA CARLSON

conservation. Sharing photos of marine life to a wider audience raises awareness of the incredible diversity found in the ocean and makes the underwater world more accessible to those who cannot travel to see it first-hand. Often the larger charismatic species are highly photographed and familiar, but the more unusual marine creatures are every bit as vital to a healthy reef system. As we are more likely to protect what we know and love, increasing awareness of the beauty of our marine environment and the threats it faces has never been more important than today. About the authors: Matthew Norman & Sara Carlson own and operate Ocean Ventures Fiji (www.oceanventuresfiji.com), a PADI Dive Resort that also focuses on conservation education and snorkeling trips in Natewa Bay, Vanua Levu, approximately 40 minutes outside of Savusavu. They can be found on Instagram: @ oceanventuresfiji, @matthewnormanphotography & @divingsara.

Peacock-tail anemone shrimp, Natewa Bay. Photo: MATTHEW NORMAN

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DIVE

The New Ancient

WAY TO DIVE Words & Images TOBIAS BERNHARD It’s old news that Fiji is one of the best dive destinations in the South Pacific. Scuba enthusiasts from all over the world flock to our shores to enjoy the underwater sights and scenery. Snorkelers love our shallow, colorful reefs teeming with marine life. And for the serious adrenalin junkie there are world famous shark feeds. Recently, a new yet ancient way of connecting with the sea has made its debut as a tourist attraction on Fiji shores: Freediving, or as the Europeans call it, Apnea or Apnoea. Fiji being an island nation, breath hold diving for food gathering has naturally been an ancient tradition and virtually every young or not so young person living in a village near the sea has some freediving experience. Undoubtedly there are some exceptionally talented divers among them. Yet freediving as a sport is virtually unknown in Fiji and modern freediving training, with emphasis on safety, is in its infancy here. In other parts of the world freediving is now one of the fastest growing water sports. It’s huge in Europe. Freediving schools are popping up like mushrooms in Asia and the Americas. More and more “apneistas” are reaching imressive depths, constantly raising the bar in regularly held freediving competitions. Women in particular stand out for their performances, because self awareness and mental as well as physical control are far more important qualities in a freediver than brawn and bull-headedness. In an age of gadget overload, people are drawn back to simplicity. It is empowering to discover your body’s ability to dive for longer and deeper than you ever thought possible. It’s like acquiring a super power, becoming Aquaman or a real life mermaid. There is no doubt that freedivers experience an intense connection with the ocean. Freediving is no longer the extreme sport as depicted in the 1980s movie “The Big Blue”, wherein the rival-friends Jaques and Enzo plummet to ever greater depths until, in classic French drama fashion, everyone dies. The type of freediving that caught the media’s attention then was called ‘nolimits’. The diver lets himself be dragged down a line by a weighted sled and ascends with the aid of a lift bag. The depths achieved in this way were mind boggling. This discipline is now regarded as too dangerous for a competition sport and also somewhat un-sportsmanlike. Today’s main deep diving discipline is called constant weigh or CWT, with or without fins. This means the diver swims

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down and up wearing the same amount of weight or no weight. Today’s recreational freediving is not so much about the numbers, depth and time, but more about relaxation, introspection and water confidence. As the saying goes: scuba divers dive to look around themselves, freedivers dive to look inside themselves. Freediving can be learned safely by pretty much anyone, because we are actually all born with the ability. Throw an infant of less than three months old into the water and he/ she will hold their breath and swim with eyes open underwater without fear. As we grow towards terrestrial adulthood our bodies forget this ability, but it can be re-awakened with the right training. We even have the remnants of a trait in common with our aquatic cousins, the whales and dolphins. It’s called the ‘mammalian diving reflex’. This is a series of physiological adaptations brought on by facial immersion and other triggers, that prepares us for extended breath hold diving. In the 1990s a group of enthusiastic French freedivers stuck their heads together in an effort to make their sport and passion more accessible to the general public, and came up with a safe and fun education system to teach freediving. They formed AIDA, the international association for the development of apnea, a non-profit organisation to further the sport. Ironically it was the real Jaques Mayol who was depicted as a sexy daredevil in the abovementioned movie, who is the father of modern, safe, freediving education. He was the first to use meditation and yoga to

relax and slow his heart rate as a means to safely extend breath hold and depth performance. Until then hyperventilation (taking a series of deep rapid breaths directly before a dive) of varying degrees was an accepted practice to that end, with often fatal consequences. Hyperventilation leads to misjudging the oxygen reserves we need to sustain consciousness and is therefore dangerous. There are certain advantages freedivers have over their bubble blowing cousins. For example, the ability to approach marine life closer in stealth and silence gives underwater hunters the edge (it is now illegal to gather any kind of seafood in Fiji on breathing apparatus) and can provide a recreational freediver with priceless moments of interaction with mantas, turtles, cetaceans and sharks. Because the cost of freediving training and equipment is far less compared to scuba diving and traveling with only a pair of long fins and a low volume mask is hassle free, freediving also attracts a younger crowd with slightly thinner wallets – but maybe a greater sense of adventure. This is not to say that freediving and scuba diving are incompatible. Quite the contrary, they are complimentary. Many scuba divers go freediving to ‘out-gas’ on the last day of their vacation before flying out. Freediving training helps to reduce air consumption in scuba divers and increases water confidence and therefore safety. Fiji has countless recreational freediving opportunities with spectacular marine life and

topography including walls and caverns. But for learning to freedive and training there is no better place than the calm, clear waters of Savusavu bay on the south side of the island of Vanua Levu. Only a few meters from the shore the bottom slopes away to 90 metres to provide training opportunities for every level. The bay is sheltered from trade winds and ocean swells, perfect conditions for relaxation. A 45-minute boat ride from Savusavu bay, Namena marine reserve offers opportunities to freedive through circling shoals of trevally and peaceful encounters with resident reef sharks. In the summer the oceanic manta rays come to their cleaner station well within range for freedivers. Pilot whales and silky sharks in the Koro sea on the way to Namena regularly approach freedivers for a curious look. On the other side of the island lies the virtually undiscovered Natewa bay with the most spectacular hard coral gardens Fiji has to offer. So whether you are a snorkeler wanting to learn how to spend more time at depth, an intermediate freediver wanting to increase your depth, a spearo wanting to hunt bigger fish, an underwater photographer wanting to get closer, a surfy who needs to increase breath hold confidence, or you are simply interested in the meditative aspects of apnea, Fiji is the place to start your freediving journey. For more info visit www.liquidstatefreediving. com

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HIKE

Over the roofs of

SUVA

Words and Images TOM VIERUS Sometimes it is essential to leave the stress of the city behind oneself and embark on a little outdoor adventure. Suva visitors and residents have an excellent opportunity for that right in front of their city door – Mount Korobaba. The 400+ meter mountain provides an excellent hiking opportunity but does require a certain level of fitness and some solid shoes. Just past Lami’s town centre, at the turning of the cement factory (and easy to miss), there is a little path that leads past the factory towards the actual trail. There are no signs around, so best to ask one of the locals or factory workers that will be happy to point out the way. ESCAPE CITY LIFE – ENJOY NATURE On a sunny Sunday morning we met with a few friends to spend the morning climbing Korobaba. Equipped with our cameras, good sports shoes, and plenty of water we made our way along the clay-laden paths around the cement factory towards the first steep ascent. After a short while, the trek weaves through lush rainforest with plenty of bird calls to listen to. It’s hard to spot them in the thick bush, but with a little bit of luck and patience, you may observe barking pigeons, parakeets, and even parrots! After a one-hour trek, we reach the last steep ascent that takes a good 20-30 minutes to complete. It is a hot day and we are longing for some breeze at the top. Reaching the plateau is not only a rewarding feeling, it also brings a smile to each one of us – the view from up here is breathtaking! Clear blue skies with a few single clouds ensure we can see all the way over Suva to the south-east and even make out hints of Kadavu in the distance. For the next half an hour we enjoy the incredible view of buzzing Suva and the impressive hilly inland landscape of Viti Levu - lush, green and healthy forest as far as the eyes can see! LEAVE NOTHING BUT FOOTPRINTS The only downfall we witness here is the plastic trash discarded by visitors. From flip flops to plastic bottles to all kind of food wrappings spoil the experience a little. If you visit Mount Korobaba, please make sure to leave nothing behind but your footsteps and take everything away that you brought. The way back downhill feels much more comfortable than the way up and after a total time of around three and a half hours we are back at the car in Lami. We all are tired but happy – what a wonderful nature excursion close to town! The hike is a great way to start the day on a weekend and escape the buzzing city. Mount Korobaba – we will be back!

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HIKE

Fiji Beyond the

BEACHES By MARITA MANLEY When I asked my husband what he wanted for his 40th birthday, I thought he might want to upgrade his Garmin, head to New Zealand on holiday or just go to the beach for the weekend. ‘Hike across Viti Levu’ he said. We own a hiking business in Fiji, so to me, this sounded quite a lot like work and not entirely normal. Plus, I really wasn’t in the best shape for a 180km walk. It was with some trepidation that I found myself on standing on Viti Levu’s northern coast, at Yaqara’s office – a cattle farm on the Suncoast – with the lightest pack possible. Just the bare essentials – instant oats for breakfast, crackers and tuna for lunches, vacuumed packed Lami Kava for our sevusevu each night, a few hiking shirts, a first aid kit, a water filter and plenty of snacks. And, of course, a plan: to emerge on the island’s southern coast 10 days from now having crossed some pretty rugged terrain, trekked along various old village tracks, some gravel roads, and cooled off in many refreshing streams. So, 180km, here we go! DAY 1: YAQARA TO NAIVUTU (25KM) As we farewelled the ocean we passed an elderly gentleman driving to work. He apologised that taking us to our destination would make him late for work. We explained we wanted to walk. ‘Isa’ he sighed with a look that we’d become accustomed to over the next nine days! With a relatively straightforward track and a first day spring to our step we made good pace through areas of reforested pine and teak. As the afternoon cooled we reached Naivutu, where our host for the night, Varaone, had generously given up his bed and had been fishing for our fantastic dinner.

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DAY 2: NAIVUTU TO NABALESERE (15KM) Our guide for the day, Ratu, had calves that could only belong to a rugby player – so it was no great surprise to learn that he did indeed play rugby. He joked that he’d run back as part of his training. This was a short day so I tried to hide my relief as the green houses of Nabalesere emerged. Reaching the revitalising waters of the Savulelele falls involved a bit more walking but had the almost instantaneous desired effect on tired muscles. I almost skipped back down to the village! DAY 3: NABALESERE TO NAVAI (20KM) Despite our insistence that our instant oats were breakfast enough, Milika emerged at first light with a plate of babakau. Armed with as many mangoes as we could carry we started the climb, ambitiously aiming for 2km an hour! From the ridgeline it was impossible not to reflect on how blessed Nabalesere’s situation is – surrounded by forest and water that comes straight from nature’s best filter. Cyclone Winston was definitely here though – there’s as much clambering over and under fallen trees as hiking. Paula, our guide for the day, had an amazing ability to disappear into the distance as soon as there was a decent stretch of track. At an opening in the canopy above a waterfall we refill our water supplies for the final 4km along old logging tracks. I’m delighted to see Joji (who is providing vehicle support and restocking our supplies every 3 days) jogging towards us. Knowing that the amazing views and beautiful forest today can only be experienced by hiking through them makes it all the more special. DAY 4: NAVAI TO NAGA (23KM) This area was a centre for forestry operations and old, overgrown logging tracks make for decent hiking trails. Despite the distance we’re at Naga

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HIKE

Yaqara Farm

Nabalesere

Nubutautau

Yalavou

Malevu

village by 2pm, showered (from a shower with the best view in the interior!) and asleep in the community hall by 3pm for a welcome afternoon nap. Naga village is blessed with the perfect climate for temperate crops and we settle down to an evening meal of vegetables and potatoes! Sensing an opportunity, we ask if it would be possible to get a few cooked potatoes for lunch the next day – a welcome change from crackers!

weeks with them learning to plant, harvesting food from the farm and the forest and cooking over open fires is a memorable way to spend the school holidays. On arrival at Korovou, as we’re trying to locate our bed for the night, Joji drives in with our host Simi. Even better – he’s brought an ice box with Magnums up from Sigatoka!

DAY 5: NAGA TO NUBUTAUTAU (11KM) Today is part of our Cross-Highland Hike and it feels great to be walking a route along the river that we know so well. There are a few bilibilis (bamboo rafts) about 8km in, leftover from a charity event we’d helped to organise a few weeks ago. So, we decide to use one as a table – a great idea! As we enjoy a swim the remains of lunch slowly start drifting off and have to be rescued. Thankfully, Matt’s knife (a previous, much easier to organise birthday present!) is easy to locate at the bottom of the river. My approach to hills is slow and steady. The ascent out of the valley to the village of Nubutautau is steep but I refuse to take a break until we can look down the stunning Sigatoka Valley from the ridgeline. I’m pretty proud of my legs - over 90kms done!

DAY 9: KOROVOU TO YALAVOU (25KM) This track doesn’t get a lot of foot traffic and we pass trees laden with mangoes at head height that haven’t been swiped yet. As we approach the village Joji is gathering more for our afternoon tea. I’m definitely making the most of this year’s mango season! We arrive at Yalavou to find that the Head Teacher has patiently waited for us to arrive before heading off for the school holidays. Friends from Suva have joined us for the last day and are sprawled across Iva’s welcoming balcony. Baigani (eggplant) in lolo (coconut) and bele (island cabbage) are devoured for dinner.

DAY 6: VAKACEGU / REST The half-way mark and we have a day in Nubutautau to rest and recover. A cosy valevakaviti (traditional Fijian house) makes for the perfect sanctuary. DAY 7: NUBUTAUTAU TO KOROLEVU (15KM) Another day in the upper reaches of the Sigatoka river valley and the memories flood back as we retrace the steps of a walk we’d first done eleven years ago with Mr Vilitati Rokovesa – or as he’s affectionately known Mr Roko – the inspiration behind Talanoa Treks. He doesn’t guide as much anymore but he’s insistent that he join us on this stretch and it’s a fantastic day of talanoa (conversation and story telling) recalling those initial hikes together and where they eventually took us. DAY 8: KOROLEVU TO KOROVOU (15 KM) Back on the road for a section and the first day that our rain jackets make an appearance. I actually find myself shivering over lunch – and it suddenly feels reminiscent of hiking in New Zealand. The rain is gone as quickly as it arrived and we join grandparents and their grandson on the way to their farm for a few weeks during the school holidays. I can imagine that a few

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Photo by FEROZ KHALIL

DAY 10: YALAVOU TO MALEVU, 31KM We wake up and are surrounded in cloud and enjoy a few precious hours of shade before it burns off. Anticipating the challenge of a long final day, I’d neglected to actually look at the topography of the track and, in my head, the final stretch down to the coast at Malevu is mostly downhill. But no. It’s down then a steep up, down, then up. I’m pretty sure that there are no flat hiking trails in the country! The ocean emerges in the distance, the unfamiliar sound of traffic grows louder and it’s not long before our hiking shoes are off and are toes are digging into the sand beneath the Pacific ocean.

Two hours later and I’m in a bath on a balcony at the Intercontinental sipping a pretty well-deserved glass of champagne. We reflect on ten days of incredible hospitality, amazing views, deserted swimming spots and beautiful forests. Happy 40th birthday Matt! We’re definitely going to remember this one! You can experience part of this hike by joining Talanoa Treks on one of their scheduled hikes. Visit their website for more details.: talanoa-treks-fiji.com.

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REMOTE

Mavana

MAGIC By MARGOT LEGER Photos by STEVEN LYON I opened the guest book. Confidently grabbed the pen and signed my name, leaving an enthusiastic comment. The grounds truly had been spectacular and the view of the Bay of Islands from the top of a sheer cliff face, incredible. I left a smiley face next to my double exclamation mark. My eyes shifted upwards, scanning the other names. “Matt Damon and Lucy.” It couldn’t be, could it? But I wasn’t really shocked that I was visiting the same sites as these top Hollywood stars. The Bay of Islands in the Lau archipelago of Fiji has to be one of the most spectacular places on the planet. Forbes magazine agrees with me, and voted it in the top 12 most beautiful places in the world. The crystal clear waters are dotted with dark grey volcanic rock islands that create mazes through which super yachts lazily sail. The islands reflected in the blue-green waters are all shapes and sorts: some big, some small, some tilted. My favourites had their bases eroded so that the island looked like a wineglass balanced precariously on its rock stem. Definitely a sight that merited sunset champagne. The Bay of Islands may be celebrated by yachties and idyllic nature seekers the world over, but the islands surrounding it deserve discussion as well. Closed to the yachting world until 2010 and aided by its remoteness, the Lau group has managed to keep its culture and traditional ways of life relatively intact. I had been living on Vanuabalavu, one of the islands in the Lau Group for the previous three weeks. I’d arrived at the village of Mavana with my friend and photographer, Steven Lyon. This small coastal village is known as the former prime minister Laisenia Qarase’s home. It is a beautiful place where people work together to create community. We were hosted by the village schoolmasters and had a chance to appreciate the gentle timetable and simple ways of island life. During the day we would entertain ourselves by adventuring on hikes into the mountains around the village or going for picnics

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on the beach. Steven mastered the art of climbing a coconut tree and I learnt how to scrape a coconut. We watched women weave the mats that were integral to important occasions such as weddings and funerals. We were shown how to make our own coconut oil from scratch, delicately scenting it with Mokosoi (ylang ylang) flowers. Our evening kava sessions were interrupted by people bringing us 30kg fish – the head alone fed six of us for dinner. People were generous and shared what they had. It was not unusual to wake up to the sound of someone dropping off fish from the previous night’s catch, or freshly baked buns for breakfast. Sundays were days of rest, and the community prioritised family and home over normal weekday work in the plantations. People had time for each other. A simple trip to the one sporadically stocked shop could take as long as an hour. It was necessary to stop to discuss the day’s goings-on with various neighbours. It seemed that each individual in Mavana had a role to play. Community mattered, and everyone benefited from this attitude. The islands in the Lau Group are a place where Hollywood hotties can appreciate Fiji’s idyllic island paradise. But my time on Vanua Balavu also provided me with a window on a way of life from which the rest of the world could learn. When it was time for me to leave on the Fiji Airways flight that connected this haven to the rest of the world, I was overcome with sadness. As the island of Vanua Balavu disappeared under the clouds, I settled back in my seat with the knowledge that when people, the environment and a respect for culture coexist, humanity can create its own paradise.

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GETTING THERE Fiji Link flies to Vanua Balavu every Wednesday morning: fijiairways.com WHERE TO STAY Moanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Guesthouse in Lomaloma, Vanua Balavu moanas@connect.com.fj, +679 820 1125 To organise a village stay in Mavana contact: Daniel Vakacegu, danvakacegu@yahoo.com, +679 940 6926

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VISiT

Travelling in style and comfort

Explore things to do in Samoaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main island Upolu. Story on page 82. Photo Samoa Tourism Authority

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Eat

The South Pacifics most romantic

RESTAURANTS By BEN MACK The South Pacific is practically synonymous with romance. But visitors aren’t only spoilt for choice when it comes to pristine beaches, crystal-clear waters and warm temperatures. They’re also spoilt with some of the most romantic dining anywhere on earth. Yet with so many all-five-senses-stimulating options, deciding where to have a meal with a loved one isn’t exactly the easiest. To help simplify things, here are some of our picks. TIKO’S FLOATING RESTAURANT Suva, Fiji As the name suggests, this eatery doesn’t just have a fantastic view of the water – it’s literally on the water. A bit of a Suva institution, Tiko’s sways and creaks on a regular basis – after all, the restaurant is inside a former cruise ship (but not the floating cities people usually think of) permanently moored off Stinson Parade in the Fijian capital. Ultra-fresh seafood dishes from its frequently-changing menu are served on white linen and accompanied by fancy glassware. For an elegant, old timey-feeling meal– but without the negatives of what life was like a hundred or more years ago – this is the place. Even better: even though you’re on a boat, the chances of getting seasickness are very, very slim. TURTLE ISLAND (NANUYA LEVU) Fiji The first thing to know about Turtle Island is it isn’t just among the most romantic places in Fiji – it’s one of the most romantic places in the world. A private island paradise populated by only up to 14 couples at a time, everything you do here will be steeped in romance. Meals are no exception. Oh, and with such limited numbers, as much privacy as you desire is guaranteed. MATAGI ISLAND Fiji Also called Matangi Island, this is also a private island (visitors can stay at the Matangi Private Island Resort) where you and your paramour can have as much time to yourselves as your hearts might desire. What could be better than dining under the stars with the scent of a tropical breeze filling the air and the only sounds that of crashing waves, swaying palm trees and squawking seabirds? PORTS O’CALL Denarau Island, Fiji Located inside the Sheraton Fiji Resort on Denarau Island near Nadi, this might just be the most elegant restaurant in the entire South Pacific. Open since 1987 (meaning it’s also one of the oldest), the restaurant specialises in both traditional Fijian and international dishes such as premium steaks. Also boasting an enormous wine list with which to wash it all down, the tableside silver service is legendary. There’s also private booth seating, for that extra feeling of closeness. If you need any more convincing: the word “amazing” features often in online reviews.

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TUKUNI Lautoka, Fiji “A rendezvous for storytellers organised around the common love for traditional Fijian food and the richness of our past,” sustainability drives everything at this restaurant north of Lautoka along Kings Road. The name Tukuni meaning “tales” or “stories” in Fijian, the cuisine is sourced from rural farmers who supply organic produce to the kitchen. The sea views unmatched, it’s a terrific place to go to show you love your partner, the planet and helping local communities all at the same time. CHATTERBOX CAFÉ South Tarawa, Kiribati Sumptuous sandwiches and soups. Postcards and postage stamps for sale to prove to friends and family you have, in fact, been to Kiribati. A very efficient air conditioning system (for those who want to escape the heat, of course). But the best bit? The best coffee in Tarawa, hands down (and pretty good cakes, too). Who says you can’t have a coffee date deep in the South Pacific? LUSIA’S LAGOON CHALETS Salelologa, Samoa Staying in fully furnished overwater bungalows at a tropical resort – like the kind often seen in the most envy-inducting Instagram images – is often expensive. Not here. And the food is just as inexpensive (and, of course, ultra-fresh). Just be warned: there’s a very friendly cat that sometimes will jump up on tables and steal people’s food when they’re not looking! BREAKWATER CAFÉ Honiara, Solomon Islands A fantastic spot for a lazy breakfast, it boasts some of the best vistas of the blue waters and the Nahoniara Reef around. But if you want an even better view, then get a sandwich or some fruit to go and take a short walk up the Vavaea Ridge towards the parliament buildings for a picnic. The stunning views of the city below really can’t be beat. WATERFRONT LODGE Nukuʻalofa, Tonga An elegant seaside lodge, you don’t have to stay here to pop in for a bit to eat. The building itself looks like a large, stately old European-style home – the kind of place where the well-to-do in days of yore would stay amidst a voyage around the world or other fantastic adventures. The food is pretty stately, too – if lobster’s on the menu when you visit, it’s not to be missed! As for where to sit, try and get a spot on the outdoor deck – not only is it shaded by the palm trees, but the regular breeze does a pretty good job keeping you cool. Fancy as the place is, you don’t have to dress up to visit if you don’t want to – though no-one will say anything if you do, either. Plantation Restaurant Vaiaku, Tuvalu “Adventure” is the operative word here. After all, just getting to Vaiaku (Tuvalu’s capital, located on the Funafuti atoll) can be a bit of a quest. So why shouldn’t the food be, too? With both local and international fare with a Tuvaluan twist, the beauty of it is just how understated it is. It might be a good idea to bring cash (Australian dollars are most commonly used) – credit cards are not commonly accepted in Tuvalu! BLUE MARLIN CLUB Port Vila, Vanuatu For 23 years, a derelict building nestled by the sea in Vanuatu’s capital sat vacant. But that was then. Today, the Blue Marlin Club might just be the most romantic restaurant in the country. Head chef/manager Matt Lambert and the team serve modern Vanuatu cuisine using sustainable local produce, which is stunning enough by itself. But the real kicker? Facing west, diners are treated to absolutely incredible sunsets. Is there anything more romantic than a fine meal with a loved one in a tropical paradise while the sky is set aflame? Fiji Airways flies direct to destinations throughout the Pacific from Nadi and Suva, including Kiribati, Samoa, the Solomon Islands, Tonga, Tuvalu, Vanuatu and more.

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Eat

The most romantic restaurants in

NEW ZEALAND By BEN MACK Towering mountains, vast green forests, pristine lakes, picture-perfect waterfalls, soft, sandy beaches – there’s a reason Hollywood films so often feature New Zealand’s stunning scenery. Likewise, it’s also world-renowned for rugged romance – including at its restaurants. From elegant eateries in the middle of the big city to rustic retreats overlooking the sea seemingly at the edge of the world, and one place beyond even that, here are our picks for some of the most romantic of all. OSTRO Auckland In the heart of Auckland’s hip and happening Britomart, stepping into Ostro sort of feels like travelling back in time a few decades, to when men wore dinner jackets on dates and women donned fancy dresses. Times have changed, but even back then diners would’ve probably raved about dishes like lobster and snapper pie. Insider tip: try to get a window table, where you’ll get a stunning view overlooking the Waitematā Harbour. ELLIOT STABLES Auckland First things first: no horses stay here. At least, not anymore. These days Elliot Stables, just a block away from bustling Queen Street in Auckland’s city centre, is possibly the fanciest food court in the country. A big reason is the variety, which defies a typical food court. Feeling like Spanish? Try Besos Latinos. New Orleansstyle Cajun? Bonz Cajun Kitchen has you covered. The list goes on. And once you decide what to dine on, snag a seat underneath the low lights and exposed wooden beams on the ceiling – it’s like a fancy private dinner, but without the fancy private dinner prices. PASTURE Auckland Auckland’s Parnell is chock-full of romantic places to have a bite, but this might be the most romantic. Part of it is its exclusivity – the restaurant can only serve a maximum of about 20 people per night, and reservations are very much recommended, especially as Pasture has received rave reviews from the likes of The New York Times. Atmosphere also plays a role – the smoky scent from a roaring fire swirls about as dozens of courses are prepared right in front of diners. Co-owners Laura and Ed Verner also make visitors feel more like family than strangers. And the food? Local ingredients are used to create some of the most imaginative dishes you’ll ever have – that goes for the drinks, too. THE OYSTER INN Oneroa (Waiheke Island) Waiheke Island in general oozes romance – after all, there’s a reason it’s consistently ranked as one of the most beautiful islands in the world, breathlessly profiled by the likes of Vogue. But for the highest of high romance, a trip to The Oyster Inn is not to be passed up. New Zealand’s answer to a weekend in the Hamptons or trip to Tuscany, the kitchen’s speciality are freshly-shucked oysters, including Waiheke’s world-famous Te Matuku oysters. A popular spot for weddings and other

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well-to-do events – including more than a few celebrities – if it’s a hit among the rich and famous, that could be a sign there’s something to the place, no? Oh, and the sea views are stunning. SHEPHERD Wellington New Zealand’s capital is said to have more bars and restaurants per capita than New York City. One of the city’s most romantic spots is a few blocks away from the postcard-perfect Lambton Harbour. Tucked away off a little laneway, Shepherd feels quite cosy. That might have to do with the overall atmosphere, which like Auckland’s Pasture feels more like visiting a friend’s kitchen. Also similarly, a real treat is the knowledge that co-owner Shepherd Elliot and his staff are able to share while cooking right in front of you. THE CUBAN Christchurch It’s a long way from New Zealand to the Caribbean – but pop in here and you’ll think you’ve arrived. Just as laid-back as you’d expect, the tropical-inspired drinks are a particular highlight – though the sandwiches aren’t too shabby, either. Oh, and the music will make you want to get up and start salsa dancing. What could be more romantic than that? FISHERMAN’S WHARF Lyttelton Basically everywhere in Lyttelton has a million-dollar view and a certain laissezfaire atmosphere. But it’s hard to beat the view here. Ditto the food. Unsurprisingly, seafood is the main attraction. Whether it’s succulent salmon washed down with a glass of fine wine, or hearty seafood chowder or crispy cod, it’ll warm your soul. Even more so since this is the harbour where many research ships that travel to Antarctica are normally moored. Stick around for the sunsets – you won’t be disappointed. THE CABBAGE TREE Invercargill Along the drive from Invercargill’s city centre to Oreti Beach (which, coincidentally, you can drive on in spots – but it’s not uncommon for cars to get stuck in the sand!), The Cabbage Tree has been an institution for a while. As with anywhere in the Southland region, the real difference here is the friendliness – even strangers from overseas are made to feel like family. A popular spot for weddings and functions, the seafood here is especially good. OYSTER COVE Bluff Eating here feels like you’re at the edge of the world – because you almost are. Bluff is the southernmost town on the South Island, and Oyster Cove is its southernmost restaurant. With a jaw-dropping view across the cool waters of the Foveaux Strait, it’s here you can also try local Bluff oysters – considered some of the tastiest in the world (not to mention rather rare outside of Bluff!). If that’s not to you or your loved one’s liking, the locally-sourced lamb (after all, there are still far more sheep than people in New Zealand) is also pretty good. SOUTH SEA HOTEL Oban (Stewart Island) South of the South Island is Stewart Island – a place only reachable by boat or small plane or helicopter. The small town of Oban is the only settlement, and the South Sea Hotel is one of the only restaurants. But to say folks here are friendly would be an understatement; after all, this really is a place where everyone knows everyone. Pop in and there’s a good chance people might even tell you about the time Prince Harry visited in 2015. For mains, don’t miss the locally-caught Stewart Island blue cod or salmon, or pistachio crumbed lamb. Nothing like a fine meal in a remote region at the bottom of the world to really spark that romantic feeling. Fiji Airways flies direct from Nadi and Suva to Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch.

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AUSTRALIA

24 Hours in

CHRISTCHURCH By NAZIAH ALI and JORAH McKINLEY Photos by FEROZ KHALIL Known as the gateway to the south, Christchurch is more than just a quick stop on the way to tourist hotspots such as Queenstown, Wanaka and Milford Sound. Its popularity is fast growing due to its unique character as an evolving city. The gravel lots that were once sites of demolished high rises are being turned into creative new gardens, art galleries, parks, and buildings. The city is compact and flat which means it’s a great idea to grab a bike and pedal around to see the sights. A region of natural wonders that will beg you to stay longer surrounds the transitional city. Here’s our pick of the best use of a 24-hour transit. STAY To make the most of your stay your best bet would be Novotel Christchurch Cathedral Square. Only 20-minute drive from the airport, it is located smack bang in the city centre across the road from the iconic Christchurch Cathedral. Now a major attraction after the earthquakes, the Cathedral is home to thousands of doves as it awaits renovation. Novotel’s bright, modern rooms gives the space to work or for the weary traveler to relax. The executive rooms have stunning views of the Southern Alps, perfect at sunrise during the winter season when they are covered in snow. For those wishing to keep focus on their well-being, a fully equipped fitness centre is open 24 hours a day. It includes cardiovascular equipment and training machines, exercise bikes, treadmill and other fitness equipment with instant calculation displays. Novotel is a popular choice for business meetings and conventions because of its high-tech equipment and expert support team. Due to Christchurch being in a period of rebuilding, it’s easy to find bargain price accommodation in great hotels. On the other side of Cathedral Square is Hotel Ibis. There are some affordable hotels in the city centre which can go from NZ$130 a night. Centrally located, The George won the 2015 Traveller’s Choice Award on Trip Advisor. The Heritage is also a popular choice. Whatever your taste may be, there is a broad mix of luxury hotels, B&Bs and hostels for every budget. DO For natural beauty, head to the gardens in Hagley Park for a gentle stroll or cycle or a picturesque picnic. The earthquake couldn’t ruin this attraction,

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WHAT NOT TO MISS CHRISTCHURCH TRAM EXPERIENCE Learn about the evolving city of Christchurch by taking a tour on the heritage trams that combine history with sightseeing. Friendly and knowledgeable drivers share information about the city, its landmarks and local sights including emerging hotel, convention centre and entertainment complex developments. The journey begins at Cathedral Square and runs through 17 stops, allowing passengers to get on and off as their interests take them to explore punting on the Avon and the Caterpillar Tour of Christchurch Botanic Gardens, Gothic styled Arts Centre, the Canterbury Museum, Hagley Park, Victoria Square, New Regent Street or the popular Restart Mall for some retail therapy. Tickets are NZ$20 for adults and NZ$12 for children for a day. The Tramway Restaurant departs daily at 7pm from Cathedral Junction. Bookings essential.

considered by some to be one of the world’s most beautiful public parks. It has helped give Christchurch it’s nickname of ‘The Garden City.’ Hagley Park also has a golf course, making it a perfect place for an afternoon of leisure. It’s on the same side of town as the Canterbury Museum, where visitors can have an educational experience before exploring the surrounding Botanical Garden. The famous Caterpillar tour makes the visit even more interesting, being taken through the gardens by guides who share their knowledge of the trees and flowers, including a Rose Garden of 150 varieties where New Zealand’s World Peace Bell stands. If they have the time, visitors can join the groups and couples in the popular pastime of punting along the Avon River that crosses through the gardens.

splurge on an unforgettable meal, it’s very worth it. For an interesting food experience, try C1 Espresso at the Corner of High and Tuams Street. The café has an air tube system that delivers burgers to tables at high speed, shooting food from one end of the café to the other at 140km per hour. A specific pneumatic sliders menu that includes assorted burgers and chips is available. Then you can watch your meal zipping around the ceiling and basement and on to your table. Pedro’s House of Lamb restaurant is, as the name suggests, best for lamb. Explore New Regent Street for some outdoor eating or fine dining options. The Institution is a 45 seat two level bar, a good place to hang out for a craft beer after walking around the city streets.

Continue walking around the city to take in some of Christchurch’s plentiful street art that shows the spirit of a resilient community that’s rebuilding itself. Throughout the central city there are creative and fun pop-up projects such as oversized furniture in small parks or murals to brighten up drab spaces. There are also frequent festivals including music and theatre shows. Head to Cathedral Square to consult the tourist information cart to find out what’s on the agenda for the day. As it’s New Zealand, you’ll find a thrill on nearly every corner. If you want to go skydiving, bungee jumping, boating, biking or on some other adventure, it’s never far off.

At the Restart Mall, there are options aplenty. In this most innovative and diverse shopping place there are food carts and great coffee cafes amongst the boutique retailers and banks doing business inside beautifully bright shipping containers.

EAT The food at Novotel is not to miss if you don’t wish to travel too far looking for food. Enjoy buffet style breakfasts at the stylish Square Restaurant or explore their à la carte meals for lunch and dinner with fresh local ingredients. The comfortable, contemporary Square bar is open till late and local residents often hang out there for an evening catch up. For a very memorable dining experience check out The Christchurch Tramway Restaurant. It’s not just dinner, it’s a sightseeing experience. This working tramcar takes a tour of the inner city while diners enjoy top-notch cuisine. It’s a highly popular attraction so reservations are recommended and if you’re looking to

NIGHT LIFE The fact that the earthquake destroyed many of the central nightlife spots in Christchurch hasn’t stopped locals and visitors from finding fun for a night on the town. The Christchurch casino is the largest on the South Island and features two bars, a restaurant and plenty opportunities to get lucky. It’s one of the only central nightlife hubs still open after the earthquake, but new opportunities have cropped up. Theater, cinema, bars and clubs are all possibilities. The scene is leaning more toward casual bars than pumping nightclubs, but that’s not to say they can’t be found. Many nighttime activities have migrated western suburbs, so head to Riccarton, Merivale, Fendalton or Addington. TOP TIP To explore more of what to see, eat and do in Christchurch, download the free app Find:Chch or visit their website findchch. com Fiji Airways flies to Christchurch from Nadi twice a week on Tuesdays and Saturdays.

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AUSTRALIA

Further

DOWN UNDER By BECCA HENSLEY Photos TOURISM AUSTRALIA Australians call a pack of kangaroos a mob. At the Bonorong Wildlife Park in Tasmania, I learn why. Like an actress being swarmed by the paparazzi, I find myself amid a scrum of hungry, free range kangaroos: boomers, joeys and jills. And every one of them pokes and pulls at the bag of food I balance perilously in my hands. Some are nearly as tall as I am, but even the smallest ones wrangle their way into the assemblage to fight for a snack. One even steals my pen. Before the night ends, I nurture a spiky echidna with a baby bottle, snuggle a sleepy koala, stroke a fat wombat—and dangle a bloody bit of bones above some famished (Tasmanian) Devils in an unforgettable feeding frenzy. Not a zoo, this up close and personal animal sanctuary—founded by animal advocates—caps my trip to Tasmania. All the creatures here have been rescued and rehabilitated—and if they grow strong enough, they will be returned to their natural habitat. Rough hewn with wooden fences and pens that meld into the landscape, Bonorong Wildlife typifies the nature wonderland of Tasmania, Australia’s southern, island state. Bonorong— which means “native companion” in the Aboriginal language--is no nonsense with soul, much like other spots I visit in the pristine wonderland of Tasmania. Best known for its strident 19th century penal colony, Tasmania is, in fact, an abundant land with many faces. Even the former prison is set on a beach that brings to mind tropical Tahiti. A panoply or rustic ports, bucolic meadows, expansive valleys and Alpine peaks, it rolls and rambles in a verdant vastness. A rainforest yields immense trees. Beaches boast outcroppings of ancient rock that rise in ethereal formations. Vineyards thrive, as do olive groves and fruit orchards. And throughout, unique creatures known only to this land—like the Tasmanian Devil—scuttle about with such frequency that road signs caution drivers to watch for them crossing.

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One day I visit the Curringa Farm, a family-owned working farm, recently brilliantly reconfigured for eco-tourism. Here, I join Tim and Jane Parsons, sixth generation Tasmanian farmers, as they go about their sheep shearing and crop management. I stay for lunch, observe the farm dogs at work, and drink water straight from the pond. The Parsons’ farm runs 3,000 sheep and produces crops such as cabbage, poppy and grains. But much of their livelihood, now, is eco-tourism and they revel in sharing their world to visitors. Stay in one of the water-front cottages for night or two, or just drop in for a chat with the farmer. That’s what I’ll do next time. But Tasmania isn’t all rural pleasures. Hobart, the state capital, is a seaside city with an edge. A vision of Georgian houses stacked along beaches, tea shops, bobbing anchored boats and happening bars and restaurants, it has an artsy vibe. Henry Jones Hotel, ensconced in a former jam factory on the quay, fuses modern art and contemporary sensibilities with the skeletons of the past. Mod interiors contrast with the building’s historic façade. Like an exhibition, views of the sea are displayed from panoramic windows—and throughout, modern art works cover nearly all walls, providing an alternative gallery for hotel dwellers. Best of all, Henry Jones embraces Tasmania’s penal history with a little treat for every guest: Before a guest’s arrival, the affable concierge will research your name against the list of convicts who once took up residency at Port Arthur—the prison settlement on the Tasman Peninsula. If a guest’s hereditary status matches up—as mine did--, he’ll receive a full print out, listing convict and deed. It’s a nod to the penal colony past that intrigues and amuses. What could be more titillating than to discover your family’s nefarious history? For art lovers, Hobart’s Museum of Old and New Art is a destination in itself. Gleaned from the personal collection of David Walsh, the works range from Egyptian antiquities to controversial contemporary installations. Oenophiles, too, can spend weeks tasting from the 170 various wineries. But for me, Tasmania will always be about those animals at Bonorong. IF YOU GO: Info:https://www.discovertasmania.com.au/ Stay: Henry Jones Art Hotel: thehenryjones.com Tours: For intimate, luxe wine, nature, and other experiential tours once you arrive, book with Premier Travel Tasmania: premiertraveltasmania.com Bonorong Wildlife Sancturay: .bonorong.com.au Curringa Farm: curringafarm.com.au www.mona.net.au

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ASIA

Prayers and peaks on

LANTAU ISLAND By DRUE SLATTER For many Fiji Airways flyers, Hong Kong is a popular transit point and layovers are often too short to leave Hong Kong’s airport island or too long to hang around your terminal. Lantau Island has a bit of everything – shopping, sand or solitude. We’ve previously covered the task of ’24 Hours in Hong Kong’ and part of that was the famous ‘Big Buddha’ – who also features in the hike I did on Lantau Island. Lantau Island has a system of hikes called the Lantau Trail, that add up to a 70-kilometre stretch of paths, mountains, monasteries and beaches. Most of it is well prepared with dirt track or carved rock steps and stretches from Mui Wo to Tai O. It provides access to excellent hiking and

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camping areas such as the two big peaks and campgrounds around Lantau Peak and Sunset Peak. Despite having the time, I lacked the physical fitness to complete that mother-of-a-trail, as it would take roughly five days to a week to conquer (and as a Fijian, I was there to watch the Hong Kong 7s). However, what is possible is to attempt one of the 12 sections that make up the Lantau Trail. For example, for those more interested in seaside scenery than sweeping peaks, a bus ride to the fishing village of Tai O is the start of Lantau Trail section 7 –Tai O to Kau Ling Chung – a hike past mangroves and villages, leading up to scenic points over looking bays and the most southwesterly waters of Hong Kong. However, I wanted to tackle a summit during my

brief time in Hong Kong, so Lantau Peak it was. After some research and consulting the various public transport routes, I decided to knock two birds with one stone and catch the famous Ngong Ping cable cart up to see the Tian Tan Buddha and start my hike from there. Ngong Ping 360 is a major tourist attraction and thus crawling with visitors and alive with the sound of snapping cameras. The 25-minute cable car ride up the mountain is a brief period of solitude, depending on your co-passengers (a solo ride is available for a heftier price). The journey offers some beautiful panoramic views of the bay and mountain greenery, but once you alight at the Ngong Ping terminal, be ready for an onslaught of iPhone touting tourists. Venture past the Ngong Ping Plaza, and the feeling

of Buddhist deity-turned-disney makes way for the Po Lin Monastery and Tian Tan Buddha. You’ll hear both names mentioned. Big Buddha is the local nickname while the official name is the 34 foot tall Tian Tan Buddha. Weighing over 250 tons, the statue is the biggest seated bronze Buddha in the world - and one of the world’s top ten Buddha statues by scale. Originally built as a source of inspiration and a location for contemplation, its grandiose size has turned it into a tourist magnet and millions of visitors flock here each year. The steps leading up to the famous ‘Big Buddha’ are often highly populated, but standing in the shadow of the majestic bronze casts a calm over me that not even crying babies and snapping cameras can infiltrate. After I’ve had my fill of spiritual sightseeing, it’s

time to brave the Lantau Peak. The two-hour hike up Hong Kong’s second highest peak is as steep as it gets and strong knees are more than handy on the seventy-degree inclined stone steps. Once you’ve left the Big Buddha, follow signs to the Tea Garden. Arriving there, this path gives splendid views of two grand massifs. On the right stands Lantau Peak, Hong Kong’s second highest, while on the left the majestic Nei Lak Shan rears 751m above sea level. The main spur of Lantau Peak is 934m high. Its uplands, shrouded in mist all year round, are a unique local sight named ‘the Illusory Phoenix’. Most spectacular at sunrise, Lantau Peak offers stunning views of the ridges of Lantau Mountains. The best time of year for catching a photo worthy sunrise (or photos at any time of day) on Lantau

Peak is during Hong Kong’s dry winter from December to February. There are fewer clouds and only a thin haze. However, if once on the apex you are confronted by cloud cover, it makes the descent all the more mysterious. It is possible to descend the way you came and catch either a cable cart or bus back down to the bottom. We only recommend the Lantau Peak for intermediate to experienced hikers as the summit is rugged and can require physical exertion. Fiji Airways flies direct to Hong Kong five times a week

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JAPAN

Designed in nature in

JAPAN Words and images RONAN O’CONNELL In autumn they are bathed in a warm palette of seasonal colours, in spring they are decorated by cherry blossoms and at all times of year they are beautiful thanks to ancient landscaping designs. Japan is famed for its classical gardens. These green spaces are meticulously manicured using Japanese landscaping techniques which date back centuries. While early Japanese gardens were sparse places, they gradually became more and more dense with vegetation and man-made ornamentation like bridges and pavilions. KOKOEN GARDEN (HIMEJI) Himeji is renowned as one of Japan’s greenest cities. Nowhere is Himeji’s natural splendour better showcased than in Kokoen, the classical Japanese garden in the south-western corner of the Himeji Castle complex. This garden is unique in that, unlike the others detailed in this article, it is a recent construction, dating back only to 1992. But in keeping with the authenticity of the castle complex, one of the finest ancient fortifications in Japan, Kokoen was designed in the style of gardens from the Edo Period (1602-1868). One of the key features of Japanese gardens from this era is the way in which they were segmented, and Kokoen is split up into nine separate walled gardens. Among the most striking of these are a bamboo garden, tea garden and a pine tree garden. KORAKUEN GARDEN (OKAYAMA) Similar to Kokoen, this garden was built in the shadows of a majestic feudal castle. In this case Korakuen borders Okayama Castle, famous for its unusual, dark grey façade. Constructed in the late 1600s, this 13-hectare garden is embellished by ponds, streams, groves, hills, bridges, shrines and pavilions, as well as a tea field and a rice field. Unlike most classical Japanese gardens, which tend to be intimate spaces, Korakuen has several large, open fields.

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Boasting more than 300 cherry blossom trees, Korakuen is the best place in Okayama to witness the blossom spectacle each April. The garden is equally spectacular in Autumn (October/November) when the autumnal bloom sees it painted in a range of bright colours from gold through to orange, pink and deep red. SHINJUKU GYEON GARDEN (TOKYO) Nestled amid the skyscraper-strewn cityscape of Tokyo is this oasis of calm and natural beauty. In the busy district of Shinjuku, this massive 58-hectare area offers a respite for stressed office workers, a place to gather for students, a romantic venue for couples and a fun environment for families. What started as a private garden for a lord has become one of the biggest green spaces in Tokyo. Scattered across this huge area is a French landscape garden, marked by symmetrical displays of flowers, a very-colourful English-style garden, and a traditional Japanese garden. The latter of these is decorated by a series of ponds connected by bridges and flanked by clusters of carefullypruned shrubs. At the heart of this garden is the historic pavilion Kyu Goryotei. ISUIEN GARDEN (NARA) Known as the cradle of modern Japan, Nara became the country’s first permanent capital some 1,300 years ago. Vestiges of the city’s grand past are scattered across the Nara Historical Park, including the labyrinthine Isuien Garden. While it is not as large as Korakuen or Shinjuku Gyeon, Isuien makes up for this with the intricacy of its design. So dense is its vegetation that while wandering its winding paths beneath willow trees and over stone bridges it is easy to feel as if you have Isuien all to yourself. Isuien was designed to have dozens of small, secluded spaces perfect for meditation. Its front garden was built in the mid-1600s while the larger rear garden dates to the late 1800s.

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TRADITION

Samoan

TATAU

Samoan men display their peâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;a

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A community affair, a Samoan man receives his pe’a.

By JOYCELYN SAHAI Photos by ALLAN STEPHEN As you approach the traditional Samoan fale in the Samoan Tourism Authority grounds, a gentle, repetitive tapping sound can be heard, rather like patting a wooden spoon on a flat surface. But it has nothing to do with spoons. In Polynesia, a fundamental art form is the tattoo. It is believed that the permanently etched skin motifs transmit knowledge and tell the journey of a person’s family history, as is still the practice. For more than 2000 years, the roles, techniques and motifs of the art of Tatau have continued to exist. The word tattoo is believed to have originated from the Samoan word Tatau. Most of what we know today about this ancient art has been passed down through legends, songs, and ritual ceremonies. It was in 1722 when the Samoan islands were first seen by European ships and the Samoans were described in these words: “They are friendly in their speech and courteous in their behavior, they do not paint themselves as do the people of some other islands, but on the lower part of the body they wear artfully woven silk tights or knee breeches…” The ships lay at anchor off for several days and it became noticeable that the Samoans were not wearing silk leggings, but were covered in tattoos. At the fale in the Samoan Tourism Authority grounds, visitors are not allowed to stand around the traditional structure nor take any photographs unless in the unlikely event of permission being granted by the tattooist. We were fortunate to be granted permission and to sit close to the Suluape Brothers. We watched the two engraving the fine detail of geometric

symbols on their human canvas, one working on a man and the other on a young woman. The traditional male tattoo in Samoa is called the pe’a; the traditional female tattoo is called the malu. The Sulu’ape brothers are direct descendants of the renowned Samoan traditional tattoo artist, Su’a Sulu’ape Alaiva’a Petelo. They made the decision to make tattooing their sole career path and are today highly respected master tattooists. TATAU The Tatau represents the spiritual and cultural heritage of Samoa, often regarded as a rite of passage for men. The intricate patterns of the pe’a cover the body from waist to knees and is considered a mark of personal and spiritual maturity and a commitment to Fa’a Samoa. Traditional Samoan tatau artists make the distinctive patterns using traditional tools with the tapping method – no machines. Samoan tatau also carries certain strict taboos during and after the process. The malu was traditionally reserved for the daughters of high chiefs, but has evolved over time to become a mark of pride and identity for Samoan women. The malu and its designs generally reflect the sacred role of a Samoan woman in her family, community and society as a feminine presence, a peacemaker, protector and nurturer. Like the men’s tatau, there are set designs for the malu. As the Masters tapped away, they explained that the process can take two weeks and those who are being tattooed must be accompanied by supporters. The permanent tattoo marks forever celebrate endurance and dedication to cultural traditions. An unfinished tatau is thought to bring shame to the person’s family. The extreme pain

and the risk of infection was a concern, but to back down was to risk being labeled a pala’ai or coward. Those who abandoned the tattooing would be forced to wear the incomplete pattern as a mark of shame throughout their life, so it was avoided at all cost. TOOLS OF THE TRADE In Samoa, the tradition of tatau using traditional handmade tools made from bone, tusk, shark teeth, shell and wood remains unbroken. A number have remained almost unchanged since their first use. Most were made of animal bones for sharpness, such as sharpened boar’s teeth fastened with a portion of turtle shell to a wooden handle “Autapulu” is a wide tattooing comb used to fill in the large dark areas of the tattoo. “Ausogi’aso tele” is a comb used for making thick lines. “Ausogi’aso laititi” is a comb used for making thin lines. “Aumogo” is small comb is used for making small marks. “Sausau” is the mallet is used for striking the combs. It is almost two feet in length and made from the central rib of a coconut palm leaf. “Tuluma” is the pot used for holding the tattooing combs. “Ipulama” is the cup used for holding the dye. The dye is made from the soot collected from burnt lama nuts. “Tu’I” is used to grind up the dye. For a Samoan, to complete a Tatau is a life changing process, teaching not only to endure pain but as a reminder of who you are and where you come from. It reinforces identity and instills a sense of humility and of respect, not just for yourself or your family, but for the art itself.

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TRAVEL TIPS

UPOLU in 5

By NAZIAH ALI It’s true that Samoa can create the perfect situation for doing absolutely nothing but lying on the beach, listening to the rustle of the winds and waves crashing on to the reef while you drink cocktails straight out of a coconut. There are however, lots more to see and do during your visit. Here’s our top 5 things to see and do if you are staying on the island Upolu that also hosts the Samoan capital, Apia.

1. To Sua Trench

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The To Sua trench justifiably made the list of ‘27 surreal places to visit before you die’. Photo by David Kirkland | Courtesy Samoa Tourism Authority

Pictures alone do not do the To Sua trench at Lotofaga Village justice. You’ve got to see it in person to get a sense of the beauty and scale of this unusual natural attraction — essentially a ginormous, garden-set waterhole that’s accessible only by a long ladder. The more adventurous and advanced swimmers cum divers can access the sea through an underwater lava tube. Lush gardens, dramatic cliffs, striking panoramic views and a number of open-air fale mean you can easily spend the whole day here. Accommodation is available with prior booking. HOURS: Mon to Sat | 8.30 to 17.00

DIRECTIONS: Take the Cross Island Rd and turn left at Siumu and head over to Lotofaga. Alternatively, take the Main East Coast Rd and continue cross island on the Le Mafa Pass to Lotofaga. Look out for signage. 2. Piula Cave Pools Located under a historic Methodist Church built during the German colonial time, the Piula Cave Pools are fed by pristine waters running underground from a deep inland source. A must do for any visitor to cool down, reflect and relax in a peaceful surrounding. Traditional fale and facilities are on site for your comfort with the

12.00 DIRECTIONS: A famous landmark in Samoa, every taxi will know where to find it and if you are driving, it’s half way up the Cross Island Road and well signed. CONTACT: Tel +685 20798 | rlsmuseum.com

Savaia Marine Reserve Manono Island Piula Cave Pools

To Sua Trench

warm Pacific Ocean only a few steps away. The site is run by the Methodist Theological College. HOURS: Mon to Sat, public holidays 08:00 to 16:00 Adults SAT5 | Under13 SAT3 DIRECTIONS: Main East Coast Road to Lufilufi CONTACT: +685 40056 3. Manono Island Experience traditional island life on peaceful Manono, located 3.5 km off the western end of Upolu. A steady paced walk along the coastal track that connects the island’s four main villages lasts two hours unless you stop for a dip in the ocean or chat with locals along the way. See the Grave of 99 Stones, which marks the resting place of a high chief. Atop Mount Tulimanuiva in the middle of the island is the Ancient Star Mound, an archaeological site. There are a few homestays on the isle. DIRECTIONS: Head west past the Faleolo International Airport to Le Vasa Resort at Cape Fatuosofia. Look out for the Manono uta wharf past the resort. Catch a ride on any of the small boats heading to the island. CONTACT: +685 7265176 | 7753143 4) Savaia Marine Reserve Visitors are welcome to swim and check out giant clams and other colourful marine life in a beautiful village setting at the Savaia Marine Biodiversity Conservation Reserve on the picturesque south coast of Upolu. The reserve was set up after severe cyclone damage to coastal resources in the early 90s to improve the health of the coastal and marine environment and protect it from the impacts of cyclones, land-based pollution and unsustainable fishing practices. DIRECTIONS: Take the main South Coast Rd and turn off at Savaia toward the south western region of Upolu, along Lefaga Bay. CONTACT: Reasonably priced village homestays are available via ainsliesoo@lesamoa. net, selesitina.meni@gmail.com and valasifales@

lesamoa.net. 5. A Touch of Samoa This massage haven is just three minutes from Apia on Cross Island Road. Expect deep tissue type work with flowing, gliding movements and a fair bit of full body stretching. Fofo has roots in traditional Samoan healing. HOURS Mon to Sat | 09:00 to 19:00 | Sun | 11:00 to 19:00 DIRECTIONS: Main Beach Rd | Matautu-Tai CONTACT: +685 21819

SEE 1.) Bahai Temple Majestically poised on top of the winding Cross Island Rd, the Bahai Temple architecture and grounds were designed to make you feel serene and at peace. Wander through the 22 acres of picturesque gardens and parkland, pause, sit and mediate. The white domes of the temple are spiritually uplifting and you are welcome to enjoy the temple for reflection and prayer. Enjoy beautiful chanting and singing at the Bahai Service every Sunday at 10am. HOURS: Open daily 6.00 to 18.00 DIRECTIONS: Drive 8 km up the Cross Island Road, you cannot miss the white temple set back from the main road. CONTACT: +685 20385 2.) Robert Louis Stevenson Museum Slip back into Samoa’s colonial past and view mementos of Robert Louis Stevenson, the Scottish author of Treasure Island. Although he only lived in Samoa for the last five years of his life, this fine collection of letters, books, furniture and artefacts offer visitors insights into his family life in Samoa. For the hearty traveller, follow the path up Mt Vaia to his grave and a beautiful view of Apia makes the trudge worth it. Be cautious when it is very wet. HOURS: Mon to Friday 9.00 to 15.30 Sat 8.00 to

3.) Vanya Taule’alo Gallery Hidden away in a peaceful tropical garden only 15 minutes from Apia, The Vanya Taule’alo Gallery gives you a personal insight into Samoan and Pacific art and handcraft. Feast your eyes not only on the prints and paintings on the walls but also on artistic handcrafted wooden bowls and funky jewellery, elegant pearls and unique décor art works. Walk around the beautifully appointed garden or sit on the deck and catch your breath. HOURS: Mon, Wed and Fri 10.00 to 16.00 DIRECTIONS: Drive out of town towards the airport, turn left at gallery sign at corner near Vaitle Market. Continue inland for 2.5 km to Mulivai Lane and make your way to a second gallery sign at a T junction. Turn right at sign, gallery is just along the lane. CONTACT: +685 7772993, 21488 vanyataulealo. com 4) Samoa’s Churches Quite literally, churches are around every corner in Samoa as there are over 1000 and only 300 villages so that pretty much says it all. As you drive from the airport around the islands, the churches line the roads. Each village and denomination is trying to outdo the other in terms of size and beauty. Recently the new Catholic Mulivai Cathedral (Immaculate Conception) opened in the heart of Apia with great fanfare dwarfing independence celebrations. Samoa’s Sistine Chapel, its dome is heavily decorated with culturally significant murals and the church is bedecked with art from dome to floor. 5. Fiafia Nights Apia offers a number of Fiafia cultural nights, which combine Samoan music and dance along with a traditional feast. At Le Manumea, the Thursday Fiafia is a Pacific fusion experience. Owner Luna Paul from Cook Islands has combined the sounds and dances of her homeland with that of her adopted country. Book ahead to guarantee a table and be wowed by the skillful fireknife dancers, the backdrop to a meal prepared with alofa by Luna and her team. Tanoa Tusitala holds its Fiafia nights on Thursdays from 18.30. Adults SAT65 | Kids under 12 half price. Ooh La La Ice Cream Bar hosts the Siva Afi Entertainers on Tuesday and Thursdays from 19.30. Fiji Airways flies to Apia on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays from Nadi and Suva. Visit fijiairways.com

FIJITIME

REMOTE

Samoa

SOUVENIRS Besides loading up on street bargains such as beautiful wood-block printed fabrics on your next trip to Samoa, shoppers should also look to bag a few unique items designed or crafted on the island. The stores featured here are troves of such wares. Have fun browsing them and uncovering products from an eclectic range of local artists, designers and crafters – some quirky, some beautiful but all original and uniquely Pacific. PACIFIC JEWELL Presenting a selection of island treasures from Samoa and beyond, Pacific Jewell has two stores in Apia. The main store is located in Levili complete with a garden café that serves fresh salads, sandwiches and their famous sasalap (soursop) and mint juice. You will find traditional wood blocked papers and intricately carved shell jewellery sitting alongside home décor and men’s and women’s clothing. A smaller store is located in the town centre. Levili, Apia, Samoa | +685 32888 MENA, TAPA Samoa’s homegrown international designer label Mena has two stores in Samoa. The first, Mena stocks men’s and women’s wear that features their signature brand of contemporary Samoan prints. Their second store Tapa carries a well-curated selection of Pacific homeware, jewellery, clothing and handicraft. MENA MacDonald Building Corner of Fugalei St and Beach Rd +685 31293 | menashop.com TAPA Samoa SNFB Plaza, Beach Rd. +685 31294 | tapapacific.com JANET’S SAMOA You will first come across Janet’s Samoa at Faleolo Airport, its bright blue doors and island motifs extend a warm island welcome to its customers. Billing itself as the Pearl of the Pacific, Janet’s offers a variety of gift options from traditional to more modern handicrafts including homeware, jewellery and artifacts. In partnership with one of Samoa’s finest artisans Beau Rasmussen, Janet’s carries some of the best handcarving in Samoa. It also houses works by other local artists who produce real and abstract Pacific art styles often centered around the island environment and its people. In addition, carries clothing such as those by Cook Islands fashion label TAV, which was put on the world map when the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge wore on tour in the Solomon Islands in 2012. APIA STORE 2nd Floor Lotemau Mall Apia, Samoa | +685 23371 AIRPORT STORE Level 2, Faleolo Airport janetssamoa.com

FIJITIME

MOVIES

ENTERTAINMENT

A STAR IS BORN

143 MIN | PG13 | Action, Fantasy Director: James Wan Stars: Jason Momoa, Amber Heard, Willem Dafoe Language: EN The origin story of half-human, half-Atlantean Arthur Curry. Takes him on the journey of his lifetime—one that will not only force him to face who he really is, but to discover if he is worthy of who he was born to be…a king.

THE MULE

116 MIN | R | Drama, Thriller Director: Clint Eastwood Stars: Clint Eastwood, Bradley Cooper, Laurence Fishburne Language: EN Earl Stone is broke when he’s offered a job to drive.Unbeknownst to Earl, he’s just signed on as a drug courier for a Mexican cartel.

CREED II

130 MIN | PG13 | Drama, Sport Director: Steven Caple Jr. Stars: Eddie Redmayne, Katherine Waterston, Dan Fog Language: EN Under the tutelage of Rocky Balboa, newly crowned light heavyweight champion Adonis Creed faces off against Viktor Drago, the son of Ivan Drago.

CODE BLUE

127 MIN | PG13 | Drama Director: Masaki Nishiura Stars: Tomohisa Yamashita, Yui Aragaki, Erika Toda Language: JPN Dr. Aizawa responds to several large-scale accidents.

KEYBOARD WARRIORS

100 MIN | PG13 | Comedy, Drama Director: Ho-Ching Sit Stars: Stephy Tang, Grace Chan, Yiu-Sing Lam Language: MAN Nerds Jay and Ang chance upon a security van’s cash spill.

KARWAAN

114 MIN | PG13 | Comedy, Drama Director: Akarsh Khurana Stars: Irrfan Khan, Dulquer Salmaan, Mithila Palkar Language: HIN Avinash would like nothing more than to break away.

Enjoy a greater selection of movies, TV and music onboard. Please check your inflight entertainment system for a full list of options. *Selection may vary depending on aircraft type and flight route/duration

FIJITIME

TELEVISION

AMERICAN DAD

THE GIFTED 45 MIN | PG13 | Drama Stars: Stephen Moyer, Amy Acker, Sean Teale

23 MIN | PG13 | Comedy Stars: Seth Macfarlane, Wendy Schaal, Scott Grimes

Language: EN

The members of the Mutant Underground have relocated.

Stan finds an outlet for his boring stories while teaching young CIA cadets.

LETHAL WEAPON

THE FRESH PRINCE OF BEL AIR

THE LAST SHIP

RUNNING WILD WITH BEAR GRYLLS

45 MIN | PG13 | Comedy, Drama Stars: Damon Wayans, Keesha Sharp, Kevin Rahm Language: EN Murtaugh and Riggs deal with their changing relationship.

23 MIN | PG | Comedy Stars: Will Smith, James Avery, Alfonso Ribeiro Language: EN Will is back to confound and charm his wealthy relatives.

45 MIN | PG13 | Action Language: EN Stars:: Eric Dane, Adam Baldwin, Bridget Regan The world is finally recovering from the deadly virus that devastated the population. Tom Chandler has retired and his former crew has scattered.

60 MIN | PG13 | Documentary Language: EN Stars: Bear Grylls Joseph Gordon-Levitt tackles Kenya’s unyielding terrain.

GOLFING WORLD

MARTINA’S TABLE

LEGION OF SUPERHEROES

BFFS WITH VOGUE

26 MIN | PG13 | Sport Language: EN We speak to Dustin Johnson to find out how he has become one of the best players. We also analyse the swing of Bryson DeChambeau.

30 MIN | PG | Lifestyle, Food Stars: Martina McBride Language: EN Country music star, Martina McBride finds creative inspiration in her kitchen.

23 MIN | G | Kids Language: EN One thousand years from now, Superman will inspire a group of emerging super heroes from the 31st century to band together

PROGRAMME RATINGS

G General audience: suitable for audiences of all ages PG Parental guidance suggested: some material may not be suitable for children PG-13 Parents strongly cautioned: some material may be inappropriate for children under 13 R Restricted: viewers under 17 years of age should be accompanied by a parent or an adult

FIJITIME

60 MIN | PG | Hindi Lifestyle Language: HIN Diva Sonakshi Sinha and designer Manish Malhotra are BFFs bound by their love of food.

CONTENT RATINGS V S L D A SN H

Violence Sex or nudity Coarse language Drug references Adult/mature themes Supernatural themes Horror themes

LANGUAGES EN English CH Chinese MA Mandarin HI Hindi CA Cantonese

MUSIC

THE SEARCH FOR EVERYTHING

HUMAN

John Mayer | Genre: Pop/Easy Listening/Our Choice A very well known contemporary name - It’s easy listening to a large extent, but a go-to new release album on a mid to longhaul flight.

Rag’n’Bone Man | Genre : Pop Big on commercial radio, ‘17 Critic’s Choice winner. A rising star in the mainstream. Top 5 in NZ

AUDIO ON DEMAND

We have over 550 full length of albums from 12 different categories to choose from. Here are some of our favourites. For a full list see your onscreen menu.

POP

EASY LISTENING/ OLD FAVOURITES

ALTERNATIVE

Train - A Girl, a Bottle, a Boat One of the biggest US AC bands ever. Solid mainstream pop.

Roy Orbison - Black & White Night A famous performance beautifully re-released. One of the all-time greats we currently don’t have onboard.

Holy Holy - Paint Exciting and fresh sounding alternative (rare at the moment!). Great interesting sounds about our the current world and culture. Huge on Triple J.

R&B/SOUL Pitbull - Climate Change Featuring Flo Rida, Ty Dolla $ign, Jason Derulo, Enrique Iglesias - Very high profile talent. A touch of MOR but not necessarily in a bad way,

George Michael - Ladies & Gentlemen Fresh in our minds with his recent passing. We don’t have a best of onboard, he’s one of the all time great pop singers and a must-have.

Khalid - American Teen A fantastic debut - soft synth R&B, a more minimal sound that will sound fresh this year as an antidote to some of the pop trends of 2016.

KIDS Various Artists - Trolls Soundtrack Top 10 in the US and wordwide. A perfect album for the kids’ section. Timberlake, Grande, Stefani..

CLASSICAL François Salque & Eric Le Sage - Beethoven Two fo the great current musicians playing the greatest classical music of all time.

CHANNELS POP/ROCK The Vibe (120 mins) Jase Hawkins brings you the latest and greatest pop music and culture from around the globe. CHILDREN’S Kid’s Corner (120 mins) Hey kids, come on a mid-air adventure with lots of great, exciting music. It’s guaranteed to be fun.

CLASSICAL Concerto (120 mins) Let the power and art of classical music sweep you away on your journey. During this 2 hour show we present the latest and the best of the classical genre. WORSHIP Soul Deep (120 mins) Replenish your soul with these praise and worship tracks for travellers.

LOUNGE The Lounge (120 mins) Sit back and relax with this carefully chosen selection of music designed to make you feel blissfully chilled out and laid back during your flight.

Artist Highlight Spotlight: George Michael (120 mins) In this episode we shine the spotlight on the life and times of George Michael. FIJIAN HITS

HINDI Hindi Harmonium (120 mins) The most exciting and entertaining Hindi hits will take you Bollywood and beyond.

Vude FM (120 mins) Join us on Vude FM for 2 hours full of Fijian favourites, from Makare to Kabani.

FIJITIME

Fiji Link Routes

Interline Routes

Codeshare Routes

Fiji Airways Routes

ROUTE KEY

Rome

Amsterdam Paris Frankfurt

London

Dubai

PERTH

Perth

Bangkok

SINGAPORE

Chennai

ADELAIDE

DARWIN

HOBART

SYDNEY CANBERRA

BRISBANE

CAIRNS TOWNSVILLE ROCKHAMPTON

PORT VILA

CHRISTCHURCH

AUCKLAND

HONOLULU

VAVA’U NUKU’ALOFA

KIRITIMATI

WELLINGTON

AUCKLAND

SUVA

WELLINGTON

NEW ZEALAND CODESHARE

CHRISTCHURCH

SYDNEY

NADI

APIA

FUNAFUTI

TARAWA HONIARA

BRISBANE

Darwin

Taipei

TOKYO

ADELAIDE MELBOURNE

Shanghai

HONG KONG

AUSTRALIAN CODESHARE

Mumbai Hyderabad

New Delhi

Kolkata

Beijing

NADI

St. Louise

Denver

KADAVU

ROTUMA

SUVA

KORO

Chicago Indianapolis

New Orleans Miami

LAKEBA

CICIA

VANUABALAVU

TAVEUNI

SAVUSAVU

LABASA

FIJI DESTINATIONS

SAN FRANCISCO

Kahului Kona

Kansas City

Salt Lake City Sacramento

Toronto

Boston Nashville New York Albuquerque San Jose Philadelphia Charlotte Las Vegas Baltimore Fresno Phoenix Monterey Raleigh-Durham Atlanta Palm Springs Santa Barbara Washington DC LOS ANGELES TucsonDallas Oklahoma Houston Orlando Austin Tampa Bay San Diego

Seattle Reno

Vancouver

fiji airways destinations

Our FleeT BOEING 737-700 Boeing 737-700 BUSINESS 8 - Economy ECONOMY 8 - Business class 112 class

BOEING 737-800 BUSINESS 8 BUSINESS 8

ECONOMY ECONOMY

112

154 162

Airbus 330-200

AIRBUS A330-200 24 - Business class BUSINESS 24

ECONOMY

249

AIRBUS A330-300 BUSINESS 24

ECONOMY

289

249 - Economy class

Boeing 737-700 8 - Business class

112 - Economy class

Fiji Link DHC6-300 BUSINESS n/a ECONOMY 19

ATR 42-600 BUSINESS n/a ECONOMY 46

ATR 72-600 BUSINESS ECONOMY

8 60

FIJITIME

EARN QANTAS FREQUENT FLYER POINTS WITH AVIS*

FLY WELL YOGA FOR AIRPLANES Airplanes and yoga don’t often mix. There’s nothing like a few hours in a restricted space to make your body feel tight and blocked. If you’re on a long haul flight, stretching out and relaxing is even more challenging. Try this in-flight yoga routine to help your body feel restored and rejuvenated during the flight. This way you’ll land with a relaxed body and mind. MEDITATION Assume any comfortable seated position and straighten your spine. If you’re in a regular seat, scoot slightly forward to avoid rounding your back. Pivot into the hips and engage the pelvic floor. Close your eyes, bring your attention to your breath. Count your breath backward from ten. Repeat a few times. Then let your attention rest on the heart centre. Open your eyes.

SEATED SPINAL TWIST Keeping both sitting bones planted, pivot slightly forward into the hips. Inhale as you maximize the space between the vertebrae, exhale as you gently twist towards the right. Don’t over do it, just allow your spine to elongate. Use the hands to guide and support the movement. Gaze to the right. Stay for five breaths and repeat on the other wise.

To make a reservation, please contact: • Nadi Airport (24 hours) • Port Denarau (Free delivery to all Denarau Resorts)

• Coral Coast • Suva • Nausori Airport (we meet all pre-booked clients)

• Labasa

RESERVATIONS Phone (679) 672 2233 (24 hours) Email info@avis.com.fj Website www.avis.com.fj

* You must be a member of the Qantas Frequent Flyer program to earn points. Membership and points are subject to the terms and conditions of the Qantas Frequent Flyer program. A joining fee may apply. For more information about earning points with Avis visit qantas.com.au/cars. CT10636

FIJITIME

SEATED LEG LIFTS Pivot slightly forward into your hips. Draw your right knee up into your chest and wrap your arms around your shin. Exhale as you extend your left leg as much as possible. Stay for five breaths. Reach under your thigh and wrap your arms around. Inhale as you suck in the lower abdomen. Exhale as you straighten the leg as much as accessible. Stay for five breaths, then repeat on the other aide. Next try both legs. Lean back on your sacrum and hug both knees into your chest. Tuck the head under and exhale as you round the back. Stay for five breaths. Either wrap the arms around your thighs or hold the feet. Inhale as your straighten the legs as much as accessible. Be aware of overhead space. Stay for five breaths. TREE POSE From any standing position, Tree Pose is a great way to relieve pressure on your feet and work your balance. Try it while waiting in line or get up at any time and work your legs! Start off with you feet together. Inhale as you externally rotate your right hip joint and draw the right foot as close to your pelvis as possible. If the foot does not rise up above the knee, then keep it below the knee to avoid applying pressure on the knee. Activate your left leg and feel your balance from the pelvic floor. Either place your hands in prayer or place one hand on the wall to assist your balance. Gaze at the nose. Stay for five breaths and then repeat on the other side.

T R

Te Vo Sp ap on be nu 93

Vodafone Fiji

Online Top-Up from around the World.

Vodafone Fiji Web Top-Up

Send Top-Up to your family or friends from anywhere in the world. 2 4 / 7 , 3 6 5 D AY S A Y E A R . The future is exciting. Ready? Terms and Conditions: Vodafone Fiji Online Web Top Up service can be accessed from around the World using Credit or Debit Cards. Visit www.vodafone.com.fj and select Web Top Up to Recharge Vodafone Fiji numbers online. Compulsory registration will be required in order to use the Online Web Top Up service. On every Online Top Up transaction, Vodafone Fiji Prepaid Customers will get Special Recharge Bonanza promotion benefit i.e Customers in Fiji will get 4UP on Recharge of $15, 5UP on $25 and 5UP plus Free Data Everyday on Recharge of $35 or more. 5UP plus Bonus Free Data is applicable on $35 to $100 recharge denominations and free money for all denominations will expire in 30 days. Customers in Fiji will get Free 5GB data on recharge of $35 valid for 5 days, 10GB free data on recharge of $50 valid for 10 days and 15GB free data on recharge of $65 or more which will be valid for 15 days. Free Money and Free Data expires within the specified time stated above and will not be extended with new recharge. Data roll-over will not apply on the free data. Free money can be used for on-net calls and sms only. On-net means Vodafone to Vodafone and Vodafone to Inkk mobile numbers. Online Web Top Up promotion end date will be communicated to Vodafone Fiji customers via sms broadcast. Vodafone Fiji number range are as follows: 22, 27, 28, 29, 80, 83, 86, 89, 90, 91, 92, FIJITIME 93, 94, 97 and 99. For more information call our customer care line on +679 9902123 (charged) or visit our website www.vodafone.com.fj

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