FijiTime March April 2019 Edition

MAR | APR 2019

FIJITIME WE LC OM E TO O U R HO M E

2018 Australasia's Leading Inflight Magazine

Urban Island Living Fiji, Singapore and New Zealand’s urban appeal

VANUATU DISCOVERIES Diving Old Wrecks in Santo

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Reconnoitering Viti Levu on foot

HAPPY ISLES The Solomon Islands Encounter

Discover the South Pacific's secret for beautiful skin and hair

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FIJITIME WELCOM E TO OU R H OM E ISSUE 33 | 2019 FijiTime is the complimentary inflight magazine of Fiji Airways, the national airline of Fiji. It is published six times a year in January, March, May, July, September and November by Cover Story Ltd. PUBLISHER Naziah Ali EDITORIAL EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS Shane Hussein Jessan Doton CONSULTING EDITOR Seona Smiles DESIGNER Albert Rolls PHOTOGRAPHER Jone Luvenitoga CONTRIBUTORS Andria Mitsakos Becca Hensley Benjamin Mack Bert Tolhurst Drue Slatter Feroz Khalil Imere Nadrudru Jorah McKinley Marita Manley Sharon Bhagwan Rolls Vincent Long Editorial enquiries publisher@coverstory.com.fj Advertising enquiries sales@coverstory.com.fj COVER STORY LTD 46 Gordon Street, Suva PO Box 18357, Suva, Fiji +679 3312061 | mailife.com.fj Correspondence to the airline Chief Executive Officer Fiji Airways PO Box 9266, Nadi Airport Fiji +679 6720777 fjceo@fijiairways.com

© All rights reserved. Copyrighted by Fiji Airways Ltd and Cover Story Limited respectively.

Opinions expressed in FijiTime are solely those of the writers and are not necessarily endorsed by Fiji Airways Ltd and/or Cover Story Limited and their related companies. They are not responsible or liable in any way for the contents of any of advertisements, articles, photographs or illustrations contained in this publication. Unsolicited material will not be returned. All information was correct at time of publication.

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For flight reservations or more information on Fiji Airways and Fiji Link, please visit fijiairways.com We are available 24 hours a day on the following numbers: Fiji 3304388 or 6720888 Australia 1 800 230 150 New Zealand 0800 800 178 USA and Canada 1 800 227 4446 Mainland China 4001206268 Hong Kong 3192 7568

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INTERNATIONAL

COMPANY DIRECTORS COURSE™ YOUR COURSE , YOUR WAY. Take a global view of governance with our tailored international director course.

International Company Directors Course: Monday 10 to Friday 14 June 2019 – Nadi, Fiji The world’s largest director institute.

Learn more at companydirectors.com.au/fiji-icdc FIJITIME

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CONTENTS

ON THE COVER

MAR \ APR 19

FEATURES

Singapore, the cosmopolitan urban island nation and the hub of Asia is remarkable for business and pleasure.

REGULARS 16 SNAPSHOTS Catch up on the latest updates from Fiji Airways

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MEET THE LOCALS

TREKKING TAVEUNI

ABOUT AUCKLAND

Kula Eco Park introduces rare Fijian birds

Hiking up Lake Tagimoucia

The City of Sails Beyond Business

and more

85 ENTERTAINMENT Your inflight movies, TV and music

90 FLY WELL Inflight excercise

Discover the arty wire coral, a type of black coral, found in Natewa Bay and more inside. Photo MATTHEW NORMAL

Fiji Discovery Cruises “I highly recommend this for all ages instead of a resort stay. You visit a different place every day and have ample opportunity to snorkel, swim, relax and participate in a wide variety of Fijian experiences.”

Toni, ACT Australia Oct 2013

Remote North, Lau & Kadavu Discovery Cruises

3, 4 & 7 Night Yasawa Cruises

Sunset Dinner Cruises

Tivua Island Full day Cruises

Reservations & Enquiries

See your travel agent, tour desk or call us in Fiji on 6701 823 or call in at our Port Denarau or Nadi Airport desk

Or book online at www.captaincook.com.fj or email us Fiji@captaincook.com.fj 6 this FIJITIME Mention advertisement to receive your free gift when booking your cruise

F I J I ’ S

C R U I S E

L I N E

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BULA

Andre

Shaenaz

Managing Director and CEO Fiji Airways fjceo@fijiairways.com @fijiairways

Executive General Manager Fiji Link gm@fijilink.com @fijiairways

Bula to all friends of Fiji Airways. Thank you for flying Fiji’s National Airline today, and I welcome you onboard by saying, Welcome to Our Home.

Fiji is well known as an aspirational destination for travel, one of the last pure bastions where nature is as pristine as it was hundreds of years ago.

However, it is much less known for being an attractive destination for business events such as conferences, meetings and incentive group. With a growing focus over the last decade on work-life balance, business holidays, digital nomads, and business events that fuel recharge and inspiration, Fiji is now also making its mark in this area.

In this issue, we showcase this aspect of Fiji- the perfect destination mix for both business and pleasure.

On the international front, we take you hotel hopping in Europe, starting from London, which is only a quick two stops away from Fiji via L.A on Fiji Airways and our codeshare and oneworld connect partner, American Airlines.

Also in this FijiTime, explore India in pictures, Singapore and Auckland beyond business, and cool American cities Houston and New Orleans in culture, cuisine and character.

Thank you for your business and for choosing to fly Fiji’s National Airline. We look forward to your continued feedback regarding our service. This greatly helps us assess our performance and make improvements where necessary. Please write to fjceo@fijiairways.com with anything you’ve noted on this flight

Bula vinaka to all our guests, from all of us here at Fiji Link, the domestic subsidiary of Fiji Airways. Thank you for choosing to travel to this special piece of paradise we call home, Fiji. To our local travellers flying with us today, ni sa bula vinaka and welcome onboard.

Fiji has been the overwhelming favourite location for CBS’ reality TV show, Survivor. In fact, the popular series has been coming back to film here for a total of seven seasons so far.

Ashley Gedye from Melbourne won a prize to come and visit the sites where the high-rating Channel Ten TV series Australian Survivor was filmed in Savusavu last year.

Read all about his adventures inside.

Continuing the tradition of intrepid exploration, sans self-made shelter, we trek up to Lake Tagimoucia, one of Fiji’s most challenging hikes to find one of the rarest flowers in the world. A nine-day hike traversing Fiji’s biggest island, Viti Levu also gives a good dose of endorphins for nature seekers.

For those looking for a more kid-friendly adventure, Kula Eco Park has a few great additions to their park that will occupy both the young and the young at heart.

It’s great to share more of our home with you in another edition of FijiTime, and we hope you enjoy what we have in store for you.

If there’s anything we can do to make your flight more comfortable, please do not hesitate to let our crew know.

VILJOEN

Vinaka.

Andre

VOSS

Vinaka Shaenaz

About Us: Founded in 1951, Fiji Airways Group comprises of Fiji Airways, Fiji’s National Airline and its subsidiaries: Fiji Link, its domestic and regional carrier, Pacific Call Comm Ltd, and a 38.75% stake in the Sofitel Fiji Resort & Spa on Denarau Island, Nadi. Fiji Airways has a fleet of brand new wide body A330s and refreshed B737 aircrafts. Fiji Link has a fleet of ATR 72, ATR42 and DHC-6 Twin Otter aircraft. From its hubs at both Nadi and Suva International Airports, Fiji Airways and Fiji Link serve 64 destinations in 13 countries (including code-share). Destinations include Australia, New Zealand, the USA, the UK, Hong Kong, Singapore, Samoa, Tonga, Tuvalu, Kiribati, Vanuatu and Solomon Islands. The Fiji Airways Group brings in 64 percent of all visitors who fly to Fiji, employs over 1000 employees, earn revenues of over FJD$815 million (USD $390m), and directly contribute a significant portion of the country’s Gross Domestic Product (GDP). Fiji Airways rebranded from Air Pacific in June 2013.

Visit fijiairways.com for more information.

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DIsCOvER

Discover the rise of Fijian Fashion on page 24. Photo SANDHYA DUSK DEVI

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UPdATeS FLEXIBLE SEAT SELECTION OPTIONS Guests can now select and pre-purchase their preferred seat online using the ‘Manage Your Booking’ option.

The options include: • Bulkhead Seats – are Economy cabin seats in the front of the cabin with more legroom to stretch. Highly recommended if you are tall and want to be amongst the first to board, disembark or experience our inflight service.

• Exit Seats – with more room to stretch, these seats are situated either next to, adjacent to or immediately behind an Emergency Exit door. *Suitability criteria applies.

• Up Front Seats – be amongst the first economy passengers to experience our Fijian hospitality and disembark from a flight. This option is affordable and ideal for transiting passengers.

• Forward Seats – Located just behind the Up Front Seats. Good for transit passengers and those wanting to be amongst the first to disembark.

• Bassinet Seats – These seats may be pre-purchased in advance for adults travelling with infants. This is only available via our Call Centre or Sales Office. Non pre-booked bassinet seats can be requested and allocated at the airport based on availability.

To find out more about the Seat Selection options and its Terms and Conditions, please visit our Fiji Airways website on www.fijiairways.com

EXPERIENCE NEW UPDATES ON OUR FIJI AIRWAYS TRAVEL APP With the introduction of our Fiji Airways travel App, guests can now manage their flight journey on the go with ease through their mobile devices. As part of the Airline’s ongoing initiative to enhance our customer experience, we are delighted to introduce new enhancements and features, which will add more value to their journey including codeshare, and interline guests. The enhancements and added features includes: • Ability to scan their passport details which gets auto-filled when scanned • Option to allowing user to scan their payment credit card details which gets auto-filled when scanned • 3rd Party Ancillaries which includes car hire and hotel booking integration • Users can now share their trip details with whomever they want via an entry point on the My Trips screen. Once selected, the user can enter one or many email addresses for the people with whom they would like to share their trip itinerary details • Through Check-In Support which enables Journeys that include partner airlines (i.e. interline and codeshare flight legs) The Fiji Airways App is available for free download from Google Play and App store.

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HIGH FLYER

Travel like a local with these handy tips from a Fiji Airways insider

ROY KRISHNA BRAND AMBASSADOR Professional athletes around the world know the miles of airtime required by their career. Fiji Airways Ambassador and Wellington Phoenix striker Roy Krishna is one such athlete. Roy shares his travel tips and preferences with us, focusing on staying relaxed and keeping your body as comfortable as possible.

Tell us a little bit about yourself I’m a striker for the Wellington Phoenix football team based in New Zealand and I’m originally from Labasa, Fiji.

Tell us about what you do with the airline I’m privileged to be one of the brand ambassadors for Fiji Airways.

Did you always want to be a soccer player?

I’ve always wanted to be one but I didn’t think back then that I could go professional.

Favourite destination to visit and why?

I love Queenstown in New Zealand for its natural beauty and it’s even more charming during winter when it snows.

Favourite spot/place in Fiji?

It would be Vanua Levu because nothing beats home. It’s still very raw and untouched. There are a lot of natural open spaces without a building in sight. I get a sense of freedom when I’m there. It’s something I miss when I’m living between cities during the A League season.

Vanua Levu has natural beauty worth exploring from the sea to the mountains.

Do you have a personal mantra/philosophy?

Give your all.

Places/activities in Fiji you would recommend to visitors?

I would recommend the following: For adventure, Dirt Biking in Nadi. You get the adrenaline rush as you ride past vehicles on the main road then veer off to the highlands.

You meet locals on the way, go through rivers and creeks then eventually reach mountain peaks for some of the most beautiful views of western Viti Levu.

For romance, Savusavu is a nice place to relax and unwind. Luxury resorts like Namale add a bit of magic to the experience.

For family fun, road tripping around Vanua Levu, must include a picnic stop at Vuadomo falls. (Last time we went, it was hard to get the family to leave).

Best thing about your job?

Meeting new people especially my young fans.

They are very passionate and I love their enthusiasm. It makes me appreciate and value my job even more.

Most challenging thing about your job?

Being consistent with my performance week after week as the expectation to perform is high. It’s also a challenge being on the road almost every weekend as we spent a lot of time flying to various cities in Australia during the season for matches.

The most interesting experience you’ve had at work?

Going back home with Fiji Airways and New Zealand’s TV3 to do a short documentary where I went back to my school and met the teachers who guided me in the early stages of my career.

Who’s your favourite superhero?

Spiderman

What can’t you travel without?

I can’t travel without a good book, my face cream and moisturiser and my water bottle.

Your personal travel tips Don’t over pack, you don’t want to lug around too much luggage. Arrive early to avoid unnecessary stress and panic. Carry a moisturiser your skin will thank you for it.

How do you unwind?

I take a walk by the beach or get my friends together for a FIFA competition on PlayStation.

What do you like to do in your free time?

I love to go out to explore nature and capture it on camera.

How do you keep fit and healthy?

I have a balanced diet that I stick to which includes a lot of greens and lean meat.

How do you maintain your fitness routine when travelling?

I usually go to the gym, run along a beach or scenic track and I also get massages to help with any tension in my body.

Constant travelling can take its toll on the body. Are there any exercises you would recommend while travelling?

I would recommend walking around the airport to get the muscles active. On the plane, walk on the aisle when it’s clear and stretch your lower legs.

LEFT: Roy recommends charming Queenstown for a winter escape in New Zealand RIGHT: Vuadomo Falls in Savusavu is good for family picnics and a short hike. Photos: FEROZ KHALIL

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M O R E CO U N T R IE S I N CL U D E D

roam like you’re home

DIAL *100# Activate Your Roaming Passport 100 Mins 100 MB 100 SMS

$15 PE R D A Y

DIGICELFIJI.COM Terms & Conditions Apply: 100 Mins can be used to make calls back to anyone in Fiji, within the roaming country and for receiving calls.

100 SMS can be used to send text anywhere. 100mb for data browsing in above countries only. Roaming passport costs $15 and is valid FIJITIME for 24 hours. Offer auto renews upon expiry. To Opt out dial *100#. Out of bundle rates apply. Visit www.digicelfiji.com for more details.

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SNAPSHOTS

RUGBY SEASON IS ON!

With the HSBC World Rugby 7s series well underway, and the Super Rugby Season commencing in late February, rugby season has well and truly begun for us at Fiji Airways.

Our 7s gladiators have won two of the four tournaments, Cape Town and Hamilton respectively, which saw the NZ 7s leg taken over by Fiji supporters in their tens of thousands. The back-to-back win in the second and third 7s tournament puts Fiji in third place, with 72 points, and USA and New

INTRODUCING DINE ON THE GROUND

From January Fiji Airways announced a bevy of exciting changes for our onboard Business Class dining experience. We are progressively introducing the bespoke ‘Dine on the Ground’ concept for Business Class Guests departing Nadi on early morning and night flights.

This new concept was a result of the feedback received from guests for these particularly timed flights, which was for lighter meals in the air to allow for more work and rest.

We wanted to be able to offer guests preference but still provide a great dining experience. That’s when the team came up with ‘dine-on-the-ground’.

Business Class guests will be invited to a full breakfast or dinner at our flagship Fiji Airways Premier Lounge before boarding their flight. This

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Zealand tied at 76 points.

Fiji Airways is also the Official Airline (and official crewsaders) of the BNZ Crusaders, who started off the Super Rugby season in February with a hard-fought win against the Blues, edging out the Auckland side by just 2 points in a 24-22 win.

We wish both our teams all the very best for the rest of the season, we’ll be cheering from wherever we are!

Make sure to visit our Fiji Airways Holidays page for flights and packages to watch your favourite sporting team!

includes barista-made coffee, made-to-order breakfast items, a full bakery and a wide selection of fresh fruit juices. For dinner, guests will also enjoy hot meals designed by Fiji Airways executive in-house and guest chefs, complemented by signature cocktails, mocktails, a full service bar and the exclusive ‘Fiji Bean Cart’.

Onboard express dining offers guests light brunch or supper to better reflect the time of day inflight. Brunch and supper options will include fruit bowls, gourmet panini, fresh salads, international style tapas and soups.

This concept gives guests more time and space to work, to maximise their relaxation and rest onboard.

For flights over nine hours, the second meal will be a full three-course meal designed by guest and in-house chefs catering to the keen palates of our Business Class guests.

The Business Class dining experience for all other flights remain unchanged.

2 OF 5 MAX 8s OFFER NEW FLYING EXPERIENCE We now have two of five Boeing 737 MAX 8s added to our narrowbody fleet. Island of Kadavu was followed by the Island of Gau in early January, offering our guests an exciting new way to fly between Fiji and some of our most popular destinations in Australia, New Zealand, and the South Pacific.

The introduction of the 737 MAX is the beginning of a new chapter for Fiji Airways and we look forward to taking advantage of the airplane’s superior performance and economics incorporating the latest technology CFM International LEAP-1B engines, Advanced Technology winglets, and other

airframe enhancements to improve performance and reduce operating costs.

The feedback for these new aircraft has been overwhelmingly positive all around. Everyone from the operating crew to the customers are delighted with the aircraft, its features and amenities.

The personal entertainment screens and inflight WIFI have been an absolute hit with guests. And our pilots report extremely efficient fuel burn on this aircraft, which is good for us not only in terms of cost, but good for the environment as well given its reduced carbon footprint.

The remaining three aircraft will arrive in July, August and November 2019, marking the completion of our narrowbody fleet renewal.

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ARRIVAL BIOSECURITY Fiji laws require everyone arriving from overseas to declare all biosecurity risk goods including food, plant, plant products, used material and animal products to biosecurity officers at its borders. These goods could harbour exotic weeds, pests and diseases that could damage and destroy Fiji’s unique flora and fauna, environment, agriculture, livestock and tourism industries as well as the health of local communities. When arriving in Fiji you will be given a passenger arrival card. This is a legal document and required by law. It is important that you read and fill out this card carefully and truthfully.

CASH AND CREDIT CARDS Cash is generally used in the smaller stores around the country. Larger shops, hotels and restaurants will accept most credit cards.

CHECK-IN For all international flights, check-in counters open three hours prior, and close one hour before departure. Domestic flights open 90 minutes before departure and close 30 minutes before departure. You can also check-in online between 4-24hrs before your flight.

CLIMATE Fiji enjoys a mild tropical climate averaging 31°C (88°F) during the summer months of November to April and 29°C (84°F) during the winter months of May to October.

COMMUNICATION Mobile outlets are located at Nadi Airport international arrivals. You can purchase a prepaid SIM card for local and international calls and internet data.

CULTURAL There are many cultural activities you can engage in whilst on holiday. Check with your hotel reception or activity desk on what is available in your area and ask about cultural tips on dress code for visiting villages and more.

If participating in a kava (yaqona) session, clap once before accepting the bowl, and then three times, after handing back the empty bowl. It is

customary to accept the first bowl, but you may respectfully decline the second bowl, if offered.

CURRENCY Fiji Dollar (FJD). Banks include ANZ, Bank of Baroda, Bank of South Pacific, HFC, BRED and Westpac.

DRESS Dress is casual and informal throughout the islands. The wraparound sulu (sarong) is Fiji’s most distinctive form of dress. Modest dress is advised in towns and villages in respect of the culture.

DUTY FREE ALLOWANCE 2.25 litres of spirits or 4.5 litres of beer or 4.5 litres of wine. 200 cigarettes or 200 grams of tobacco. For a full list of all countries we fly to, please refer to our Lomalagi magazine. Please note, for passengers who are transiting through Nadi, your Duty Free will be confiscated as part of liquids, aerosols and gels (LAGS) restrictions in place by Civil Aviation Authority.

ELECTRICITY The electrical current in Fiji is 240 volts AC/50 cycles. Fiji has three pin power outlets identical to Australia and New Zealand.

EMERGENCY NUMBERS Police: 917, Fire and ambulance: 911 When staying in any rural areas, ask a local person for the number and location for the nearest police station and medical centre.

TRANSPORT Getting around the islands is easy with our subsidiary airline Fiji Link or jump aboard a sea transfer to the islands. On the main island of Viti Levu, taxis, private cars and coach transfers are available.

PASSPORT AND VISA REQUIREMENTS Passports must be valid for at least six months beyond the intended period of stay in Fiji and a return or onward travel ticket is required. Entry visas are granted on arrival for visitors from eligible countries.

LANGUAGE English is the official language of Fiji. However, indigenous Fijians also speak iTaukei while Indo-Fijians speak Fiji Hindi.

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ITAUKEI (INDIGENOUS FIJIAN)

Bula – Hello Bula Vinaka – A warm Hello Ni sa moce (ni sa mothey) – Good bye Vinaka – Thank you Kerekere – Please Mai Kana – Let’s eat

FIJI BAAT (HINDI)

Namaste – Polite greeting, polite farewell Goodbye – Bye (English commonly used) Kaise hai (kaise hey) – Informal, how are you?

Dhanyavaad / Shukriya – Formal thank you Thank you – English commonly used Please – English commonly used Kaana kao – Eat

GENERAL INFO

There’s a wide range of quality golf courses in Fiji, from international championship golf courses to small “pitch and putts”. You can play a round at the Denarau Golf and Racquet Club, Natadola Bay Golf Course (Coral Coast), Fiji Golf Club (Suva), the Ba, Labasa, Lautoka, Suncoast and Nadi Airport Clubs, Novotel Nadi and the Robert Trent Jones (Jnr) designed course at Pacific Harbour.

Fiji is a multicultural nation and dining options in towns and within hotels and resorts reflect this.

Dishes from India and Asia and local seafood can be found in most restaurants, along with international favourites to please every palate.

Fiji’s best known and distinctive outdoor feast, the lovo, is an inground oven of heated rocks used for cooking a variety of foods wrapped in banana leaves.

Known as the ‘Soft Coral Capital of the World’, Fiji is home to a vivid array of reef life and a wide spectrum of underwater creatures including sharks, manta rays and over 1000 species of fish. Visitors can swim with manta rays in the Yasawas or feed tiger and bull sharks in Beqa Lagoon. Fiji ranks consistently in the top five dive spots in the world with Taveuni, Beqa, Kadavu and Suncoast being areas of note.

GOLF DINE

SHOP

THINGS TO DO DIVE

ADVENTURE

SURF

Some popular Fiji items to bring home for friends and family include Fijian inspired designer T-shirts and Bula shirts, replica war clubs, cannibal forks, Fijian combs and carved tanoa bowls, from which the national drink yaqona is mixed and served. Handicrafts like traditional woven baskets and mats, masi (tapa cloth), wood carving and pottery items are also popular.

A bestseller for both men and women is the sulu (Fijian sarong). Most stores are closed on Sundays.

Explore Class ll to lll whitewater rapids aboard inflatable kayaks and whitewater rafts along two of the country’s premier liquid pathways, the Upper Navua Gorge and Wainikoroiluva. River rafting offers a great way to experience some of Fiji’s most spectacular terrain. For those wanting to reach new heights, there are ziplines at the Sleeping Giant mountain range in Nadi and AIR AMBULANCE Wainadoi near Suva.

& MEDICAL SERVICES

Fiji is one of the world’s premier surf destinations, bringing the world’s best surfers to its waves. The Mamanuca Islands, Beqa, Kadavu and Sigatoka are home to some great surf breaks with islands like Tavarua and Namotu Experienced multi-disciplinary health catering specifically for surfers. Stand up paddle boarding is also becoming increasingly popular.

team, incorporating doctors, nurses a paramedics that can rapidly respond a provide lifesaving treatment, covering Fiji and South Pacific Islands.

AIR AMBULANCE & MEDICAL SERVICES

AIR AMBULANCE & MEDICAL SERVICES

Experienced multi-disciplinary health

Experienced multi-disciplinary health team, incorporating doctors, nurses and paramedics that can rapidly respond and provide lifesaving treatment, covering Fiji and South Pacific Islands.

team, incorporating doctors, nurses and Hot Line: +(679) 770 77 00 24/7/365 Emergency paramedics that can rapidly respond and provide lifesaving treatment, covering Fiji and South Pacific Islands.

With our Land Ambulance, Medevac Jet and Air Ambulance Helicopter, HELIPRO FIJI offers medevac services, Search & Rescue, medical standby for events and filming sets throughout the South Pacific. Our fleet is crewed by highly trained ICU medical staff including flight crew, doctors, nurses and paramedics to provide professional emergency treatment with a seamless transition to further care.

STAY SAFE! Use our QR code to save our emergency details.

24/7/365 Emergency Hot Line: +(679) 770 77 www.helipro.com.fj 00 With our Land Ambulance, Medevac Jet and Air Ambulance

Helicopter, HELIPRO FIJI offers 24/7/365 Emergency Hot Line: +(679) 770 77 medevac 00 services, Search & Rescue, medical standby for events and filming sets throughout the South Pacific. Our fleet is crewed by highly trained ICU medical staff

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LEGEND

TURTLE-CALLING On Kadavu

On the island of Kadavu, one of the larger islands of the Fiji group, the village of Namuana nestles on a beautiful bay where the island narrows to an isthmus.

The women of Namuana still practise a strange ritual, turtle calling.

To see it, you arrive at the village by boat and anchor beneath a rocky headland. You land and either sit on the rocks on the beach or climb a track to a splendid viewpoint. While the maidens of the village chant a strange song, in the waters of the bay you will see giant turtles rising one by one to lie on the surface, apparently listening to the music.

As with most such ceremonies and customs in Fiji, the turtle calling is attached to an ancient legend passed from father to son on Kadavu. It goes that many years ago at Namuana, a lovely princess named Tinaicaboga lived. She was the wife of Namuana’s chief and they had a charming daughter, Raudalice. The two women often went fishing on the reefs around their home.

On one occasion, Tinaicaboga and Raudalice went further afield than usual to the reef jutting out from the rocky headland. They became so engrossed in their fishing they did not notice the stealthy approach of a great war canoe filled with men from the nearby village of Nabukelevu.

Suddenly the men leapt from their canoe and seized the women, bound their hands and feet with vines, tossed them into the bottom of the canoe and set off in great haste for home. The cruel warriors were deaf to the women’s pleas to be spared The God of the sea, however, was kind and soon a great storm arose. The canoe was tossed about by huge waves, almost swamping it. As it foundered

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the two women lying in the water at the bottom changed into turtles. To save their own lives, the men threw them into the sea. The sea then calmed and the Nabukelevu men were able to continue on back to their home. The two women of Namuana who had been changed into turtles lived on in the waters of the bay. It is their descendants that today rise when the maidens of their own village chant to them from the cliffs.

The translation of the song is: “The women of Namuana are all dressed in mourning Each carries a sacred club; each is tattooed in a strange pattern Do rise to the surface Raudalice so we may look at you Do rise to the surface Tinaicaboga so we may look at you”.

People may doubt the truth of this legend, but no one can doubt that when this this strange song is chanted, giant turtles rise to the surface of the blue waters of the bay at Namuana. The power of calling these turtles is possessed only by the people of Namuana village, but should a member of their traditional enemy tribe from Nabukelevu be present, no turtles will rise and the calling will be abandoned.

Source: Fiji Museum, National Archives of Fiji

ART

Portrait of an Artist

WARWICK MARLOW

By SHARON BHAGWAN ROLLS

Warwick Marlow has a creative lineage that ranges from construction and engineering to carpentry and dressmaking: “Right next to our bedroom along the verandah was mum’s craft room. It was heaven for a budding craftsperson. My mother was an amazing creative individual. Always completely thinking outside the box. She wins Miss Hibiscus and that just gave her an amazing platform for national action on all sorts of levels. She was very involved in tourism. Always insisting on the cultural component of tourism” His mother is of course Liebling Marlow who remains a strong influence on his artistic expression and values including the need to produce more artistic content for the tourism market here in Fiji, but not necessarily for profit sake: “Being an artist is more than having talent. You need to have empathy. You need to make your way in the world with a small a footprint as possible.”

Emerging from a wide network of friends and artists a young 18 year old Marlow decided to venture into the creative arts with fabric painting and hand-painting tee shirt designs but carefully steering away from mass produced commercial art: “For me I like to create an original object and put my signature to it and that was going to be the only one of its kind in the whole of the universe. No one is ever going to replicate this.”

The thrill of conceptualising and producing a piece of art is what drives Marlow: “There is a magical aspect to dig into the invisible realm, conceive something there and bring it into the world as a physical object that did not exist until you put your mind and spirit into the process. It’s a magical, creative process.”

Marlow has been inspired by nature adding an esoteric value to images communicated through his work, carefully respecting the traditional ownership of the masi designs in his contemporary interpretations.

Over a 40 year journey, Marlow has developed a collection skills and techniques, rather than limiting himself to one definitive style. Most recently he has been working with creative plaster, which is a very dimensional style of plasterwork that he has created allowing him to merge different methods:

A SUVA MUST VISIT, HERITAGE BUILDING, FORMER HOME OF FIJIAN HIGH CHIEF & STATESMAN

BREAKFAST (MON. TO FRI.) 9AM – 12PM (SAT. TO SUN.) 8AM – 12PM LUNCH 7 DAYS A WEEK 12PM – 2:30PM DINNER 4 NIGHTS (WED. TO SAT.) 6PM – 9PM 46-50 KNOLLY STREET, SUVA RESERVATIONS PH: 3375 050

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SPORTS

Gallagher Chiefs adopt Fiji as home side for 2019 clash against

CRUSADERS Two New Zealand Super Rugby franchises return to Fiji in 2019, with the Gallagher Chiefs adopting Fiji as their home ground for the Fiji hosted Super rugby match which will be played on Saturday 1st of June, 2019 at the ANZ Stadium in Suva.

Heading into the fourth consecutive year, Fiji is excited to be hosting the Gallagher Chiefs who, have played as the home team in 2016 and 2017 and are again ready to adopt Fiji’s capital city venue as theirs for this 2019 Super rugby round.

For this game, Colin Cooper, Head Coach of the Gallagher Chiefs will have their colours dominating Laucala Bay in their selected fixture against the BNZ Crusaders.

Colin Cooper, who heads a settled coaching line-up of assistants Neil Barnes, Tabai Matson, Andrew Strawbridge and Nick White is looking forward to a home side match in Fiji, and admits it should prove interesting.

“We’re definitely excited to be bringing this game to the ANZ Stadium, Suva in 2019, we did well to win our last match and trust we will come back even stronger given we will have the home side advantage this time around.”

Shaheen Ali, Permanent Secretary for the Ministry of Industry, Trade, Tourism is “is “delighted that the Gallagher Chiefs will be coming back to Fiji for this match in 2019 as this is a reflection of the trend for many of our visitors, with return trips once they have experienced the Fijian hospitality,

and we look forward to once again, hosting the annual Super Rugby feature.”

“We encourage everyone to come out and enjoy this special event in Fiji’s annual Calendar” says Ali. The 2019 Super Rugby Steering Committee Chair Litiana Loabuka is ecstatic about being able to bring the both the Gallagher Chiefs and BNZ Crusaders under Fiji’s banner next year.

“The Gallagher Chiefs and Crusaders have a solid fan base in Fiji and given we have previously hosted the Gallagher Chiefs, we look forward to working with Cathy Newman and her team from the Gallagher Chiefs”.

Loabuka adds, “It is great that the Gallagher Chiefs will be the Host team this time around as they have played at the ANZ Stadium in Suva with a home ground advantage and as visitors and we look forward to making this, their fourth visit to our shores, a success.”

“It is a given that the support that our team provides to the Gallagher Chief’s Operational team on the ground is vital and our organization is as always grateful for this opportunity so Save the Date Fiji – Saturday, 1st of June is going to be a spectacular night of rugby entertainment,” Loabuka added.

Tickets are available online via www.ticketdirect.com.fj or can be physically purchased from the Fiji Sports Council headquarters in Laucala Bay, Suva.

Naturally Fiji’s new additions

Naturally Fiji are proud of their association with some of Fiji’s prestigious spa’s, international hotels and top end tourism retailers. Our product range is infused with natural ingredients, including Black & White Orchid, Virgin Coconut Oil, Neem & Noni extracts & Dilo Oil to create fragrant body lotions, skin protecting oils, luxury spa soaps, sugar scrubs and shower essentials like shampoo, conditioner and shower gels. Our range of Body Lotions are now available in 150ml tubes, with the smaller 60ml & 30ml tubes targeted for hotel room amenities. Our recent introductions are Body Butter infused with Virgin Coconut Oil which nourishes and hydrates your skin naturally and Lip Balm to naturally protect your sensitive lips from the ravaging sun and wind.

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FIJITIME

EVENTS CALENDAR PASIFIKA FESTIVAL 23- 24March Discover, experience and enjoy island vibes, the colorful sights and not forge ing the tantalizing tastes of the Paci c at this year’s Pasifika Festival, also celebrating its 26th birthday. A two day event to be staged at Western Springs, Auckland in celebration of Pacific Island culture and heritage. During the festival, Western Springs will be transformed into 11 Pacific island villages. With performances from around the Paci c and over 230 food and craft stalls offering authentic Pacific products.

Stalls open from 9am to 5pm on Saturday 23March and 10am to 4pm on Sunday 45 March. pasifika@aucklandnz.com MELBOURNE INTERNATIONAL COMEDY FESTIVAL 27 March - 21 April Known as the third largest comedy festival in the world, set to take place in Melbourne, Australia. Offering some of the best stand-up and cabaret acts including sketch shows, plays, improvisational theatre, debates, musicals and art exhibitions. comedyfestival.com.au APOLIMA STRAIT SWIM 2019 28 March The international swim across Apolima Strait from Upolu island to Savaii Island stretching over 22.3km. Join enthusiasts as they take on the annual challenge that draws thousands of spectators to the small island nation.

For More information contact +685 7603454

COMING UP CHIEFS –CRUSADERS SUPER RUGBY CLASH 1 June Super Rugby returns to Fiji Shores on the 1st of June where the Gallagher Chiefs face the BNZ Crusaders at the ANZ Stadium in the capital, Suva. (Story next page)

FIJITIME

23

FASHION

On Fiji Fashion

TIME

Word and Images by SANDHYA DUSK NAND Fiji, a premier destination for holidays, coconuts, seashells, flowers in your hair, crystal clear water, sandy beaches, cocktails at sunset, ‘Fiji time’...and high fashion. Yes, really.

Fiji is like all the other tourist destinations with the ubiquitous ‘island print’ on everything from shirts (FYI, it’s not called an Aloha shirt in Fiji...it’s Bula!) and on t-shirts, sarongs, dresses and the kitchen sink. But what gets bought on holiday often stays on holiday, getting relegated to the ‘might wear again someday’ pile and then eventually looking pretty on a charity shop rack.

Fiji may not be the first country that comes to mind when thinking fashion shopping trip but the lively island country has had a thriving fashion industry for more than 50 years, with iconic brands, designer boutiques, a fashion council, prestigious fashion events (Fijian Fashion Festival, Style Fiji) and household name top models.

The garment industry is serious business with globally renowned ‘high street’ names like Kookai Australia, Scanlan and Theodore and Gap to name some that are all manufacturing their wares in Fiji.

Despite Nadi being the international gateway and reputable hotels are, is not quite as sophisticated as the capital Suva, which is a bustling “meTROPPOlis”.

Suva is hardly ever more than day trip on the holidaymakers’ itinerary, which is a shame. The fashion shopping options in Suva are endless, from shops that stock imported street fashion and coveted labels, to boutiques specialising in local designers, department stores, Indian wear houses and even extremely well stocked recycled clothing stores from which many a luxury label ‘holy grail’ is found.

However there are boutiques scattered around the various resorts and at Port Denarau, also in satellite shopping complexes such as Namaka, where you can find an eponymous boutique cum café and co-working space.

In the Suva CBD, at the famous longstanding Palm Court, is located the crème de la crème of Fiji fashion designer brands, including Zuber, Hupfeld Hoerder, Jadeine Whiteside and Rachel Fairfax. Aladdin’s Cave is also there, which as it name suggests is a treasure trove.

Across the way is Pacific Island Arts, which has brilliantly created a fusion brand of traditional prints and sexy, modern silhouettes for females and males of all ages. PIA is a Pacific label success story with stores all over the Pacific and now in Australia.

Up the street is Samson Lee boutique, which not only houses his eponymous, label but also two of Fiji’s fashion icons, Naina and Zilda. Samson Lee has also recently opened his bespoke bridal shop, so an entire trousseau can be found next door to each other.

Veteran designers such as Naina and Zilda have been delivering seasonal resort collections and signature staples for close to three decades, while newer designers like Samson Lee pay homage to iconic names such as Tiki Togs that was started by Cherie Whiteside in the 1950s, but with a more body conscious and urban feel to the ethnic fusion.

Zuber too mixes unexpected combinations of traditional and edgy while Aisea Konrote is the Valentino of the Pacific with sensual, versatile gowns that complement women of all ages; Rfx designs are bold and sexy and Shanghai based Jadeine Whiteside continues her family legacy of tropical elegance but influenced by global trends.

Fiji has a plethora of pleasures to offer. Add fashion to that list.

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TASTE

Waterfront dining in the

CAPITAL

By IMERE NADRUDRU PHOTOS SUPPLIED

If you’re in Suva and looking for something away from the city’s hustle and bustle, don’t go past the Galley Restaurant. Located in a unique setting by the ocean at the Royal Suva Yacht Club, this little bistro-style establishment prides itself in serving fresh and delicious local cuisine.

“It’s important to us to use local products and I would say 90% of the food we use is from Fiji”, co-owner Jarrel Kamea said.

Their ranges goes from burgers and pizzas to salmon and steak under their mains menu and cassava wedges to a seafood chowder served in a bun as entrees. They have recently added a selection of Chinese dishes with the addition of a Chinese chef.

Owned by a local couple, entrepreneurs Kamea and Pauline Benson, the Galley also offers outside catering and has done so on a number of movies being filmed on Fiji locations. The movie work led to the purchase of a truck, which has been transformed into a fully-loaded commercial kitchen.

“We’ve always loved the Food Truck concept and thought it would be a great addition to our business. It’s been especially valuable to Jarrel, who’s

taken it on the movie sets where he’s been providing food and coffees to hundreds of people daily”, Ms Benson said.“We can do just about anything a commercial kitchen does on our food truck because it has a stove, oven, hot plates and a commercial coffee machine.”

The Galley, both on site and truck catering service, is also known for desserts. Their pastry chefs produce quality treats daily, which are also supplied to a number of cafes in the city. The sweet selection includes kumquat or mango cheesecake, tiramisu, chocolate brownies and chocolate eclairs.

The couple say that while their location outside of the main city area is in such a beautiful spot, they rely on social media daily to promote their food specials and coffee.

“We have a good following of both people living locally and Fijians living overseas,” Ms Benson said.

“We have more exciting plans for the Galley and the food truck, which is currently on a movie set with Jarrel. Once it’s back in Suva, we’ll promote it across social media.”

You can follow the Galley and the Food Truck’s journey under “thegalleyfiji”.

FIJITIME

25

ADVERTORIAL

BEAUTIFUL Naturally

Dilo Oil reaches all three layers of skin

A world away, the South Pacific is one of the last remaining anchors of natural beauty. Our turquoise lagoons teem with colourful sea life and pristine rainforests luxuriant with tropical flora and fauna. Deep in the heart of this idyllic setting lies Fiji, an archipelago of 333 sun-kissed islands, and the birthplace of our Naturally Fiji skin and hair care.

Home to an ancient culture that lives close to nature, we didn’t have to go far for inspiration. Fijians have a centuries-old practice of using indigenous plants in healing and beauty rituals. Chief among them is the coconut palm, known in the South Pacific as the Tree of Life for the many gifts it yields.

Naturally Fiji products are hand crafted from natural ingredients sourced locally and around the world. These handpicked, raw ingredients are brought to a modern production facility, and this combination ensures an environmentally and socially sustainable product that delivers exceptional qualities to our customers.

Our production philosophy not only benefits small island communities by providing employment, but extends to minimising our carbon footprint by the sustainable harvesting of our natural ingredients, from their natural habitat, negating the dependence on irrigation and fertilisation.

Even today, virgin coconut oil is pressed throughout the remote outlying Fijian islands, to which plant and floral essences are added for a variety of uses: as an after-sun tonic, moisturiser and massage oil.

This nutrient dense wonder oil, rich in Vitamin E and powerful antioxidants, is at the heart of Naturally Fiji hair and skin care, to which we’ve added the essence of our natural ingredients.

The power flowers, the Black and White Orchid, are a rare bloom that’s

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FIJITIME

been revered through the ages for its hypnotic beauty. Orchids have been found to reverse the signs of aging, calm inflammation and help increase cell turnover.

Known as “the tree of a thousand virtues”, the sacred oil of Dilo (Tamanu) has remarkable regenerative and curative properties. Tamanu oil is able to reach all three layers of the skin: epidermis, dermis and hypodermis, promoting the growth of healthy skin.

The Neem tree is known as the “Village pharmacy”. The medicinal and cosmetic properties attributed to Neem Oil are so numerous that they invoke disbelief! The seed inside the Neem fruit is rich in oil and is extracted and cold pressed for healing skin disorders.

We add Noni extracts which are considered one of the best treatments for most types of skin conditions as well as hair. It promotes healthy hair and scalp and contains antifungal and antibacterial properties.

Other ingredients like Tumeric, Rosemary Oil, Lavendar Oil, Honey and Sugar, add beneficial properties resulting in firmer and better skin tone for both oily and dry disposition.

The combination of our Virgin Coconut oil & natural extracts and oils, produce a potent fusion that is nourishing, moisturising, protecting and rejuvenating for skin and hair.

Naturally Fiji brings you “all the essences of Fiji” sourced from the finest pure coconut oil, orchid extracts and natural ingredients. Created with only one true objective: “Where the body meets the soul”

FIJITIME

27

ADVERTORIAL

REASONS

TO INVEST IN FIJI Investment Fiji operates independently as the Facilitation arm of the Fijian Government, providing services and assistance to promote and stimulate investments and exports. Today, the Acting General Manager of Investment Fiji, Mr. Ritesh Gosai highlights reasons to invest in Fiji and how investors can take advantage of the conducive business environment.

Fiji’s strategic location, stable political & favorable macroeconomic environment, young & educated workforce, well-developed infrastructure, attractive business incentives, access to global & regional market and our brand image for quality, positions Fiji as one of the first class investment destinations in the region.

Geographically, Fiji is the center of trading in the South Pacific and has transformed into a hub for regional communications, transportation and tourism. In fact, Fiji is the most dominant tourism market in the South Pacific, ranked No. 1 in the Colliers Visitor/Supply Ranking, capturing over 43% of all inbound visitors to the South Pacific region.

Over the last 9 years, Fiji has witnessed strong and sustained economic growth. This year the economy is envisaged to grow by 3.4 percent supported by robust consumption and public spending and further improvement in private investment spending post elections. Fiji has a strong and stable banking sector with the two largest banks ANZ and Westpac being in the Top 30 of the Global Financial World’s Safe Banks Index.

With 46.1% of population under 25 years of age and literacy rate of 94%, Fiji has young and talented, multicultural and multilingual workforce to drive innovation and grow businesses.

Fiji has well-developed road networks, seaport, airport and has state of the art telecommunication infrastructure that provides links through fibre optic cable connections and satellites to the rest of the world. The lately completed Suva-Savusavu submarine cable connection provides a high-capacity and highavailability fiber optic link between Viti Levu and Vanua Levu.

Fiji’s business friendly tax structure supports innovation and investment with 10% tax rate for companies listed on the South Pacific Stock Exchange. Businesses established in the

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FIJITIME

STRATEGIC global location

Ideal for Setting up Businesses

GLOBAL & REGIONAL LINKS

20%

CORPORATE TAX RATE

POSITIVE ECONOMIC GROWTH SINCE 2010

AUDIO VISUAL

ENERGY

94% literacy rate

following areas; Vanua Levu – included Taveuni, Rabi, Kioa and other islands, Rotuma, Kadavu, Levuka, Lomaiviti, Lau and Nausori-Lautoka region (from Nausori Airport side of the Rewa River (excluding township boundary) to the Ba side of the Matawalu River can enjoy up to 13 years of tax holiday including duty exemptions on the importation of raw materials, machinery and equipment that are required for the establishment of the business.

Fiji has entered into Regional Trade Agreements such as the Melanesian Spearhead Group Trade Agreement (MSGTA) and Pacific Island Countries Trade Agreement (PICTA), gaining access to the wider Pacific market of more than 10 million people. Fiji also benefits from Preferential Trade Arrangement (PTA’S) such as the Generalized System of Preferences (GSP) offered by the USA and the Developing Country Preferential Scheme (DCPS) offered by Australia & New Zealand.

47%

TAX REBATE

5 YEAR

TAX HOLIDAY ON RENEWABLE ENERGY VENTURES

40 & UNDER 69% OF total population

Fiji has established a brand reputation in high end international markets such as the USA, through its mineral water, cocoa & TV/Film production. Fiji is esteemed for delivering both quality and value for products around the globe.

The continuous enhancement of infrastructure, growth of our tourism industry, advantages of a young population, a first class English-speaking workforce, natural flair of services and conducive business environment are key ingredients of Fiji’s continued success.

To learn more about how Investment Fiji can assist your business, please visit our website www.investmentfiji.org.fj or contact us on (679) 3315988 or email info@investmentfiji.org.fj

ExPerIEncE

Travelling in style and comfort

Fijian urban centres are fast growing and the perfect way to explore the local lifestyle would be on foot. More on page 42. Photo FEROZ KHALIL

FIJITIME

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STAY

Laidback at

LAWAKI

By SEONA SMILES Photos SUPPLIED Shoes come off to step from the boat into ankle deep, pellucid Pacific Ocean, walk onto the golden strand and then across soft, green grass to the shady wooden verandah – and don’t bother to put them on again until getting off the boat at Navua jetty on mainland Viti Levu to go home .

Lawaki Beach House is that kind of place – so easy and laid back it’s like being home, if home had a blissful beach beneath ancient shade trees, exciting reef to swim and interesting meals laid on.

You don’t have to be Swiss to appreciate moonlight on palm fronds, gentle sea breezes, and a lagoon just steps away from your bedroom. But perhaps it helps to truly value them.

Christine Tawake-Bachofner from Berne in Switzerland is one such person; her Fijian husband Sam another.

They met in 1987 when Christine’s ‘round the world’ air ticket took her to Fiji for a homestay visit with a family at Vunitogaloa, Rakiraki.

Fiji’s first coup failed to impinge on her enjoyment. As far as Christine was concerned, it was “the way the world should be”. On her final day in Fiji she was window shopping in Lautoka with a girlfriend from the Fijian family she had stayed with when they ran into Sam and his Army friend in the street. The pair invited the girls out for a drink that evening, they said yes, and so began a long story.

Christine left next day, but Sam had made an impression and they kept up a pen friendship while he was posted to Lebanon. They soon met up again, and in 1989 she went to her husband’s island of Beqa for the first time. It was not to be the last, but not for a while.

In January 1990 Sam went to Switzerland where he took German language lessons, got a job in his occupation as a welder and got married.

“He always intended to go back to Fiji, but not until we were ready, when I was over wanting this or not wanting that if we went,” Christine said, well aware that village life on an island accessible only by small boats could be tough.

They moved to Fiji in 1998 and first lived in Pacific Harbour, but soon decided that if they wanted to travel occasionally to Switzerland to see Christine’s family they would have to establish an income earning enterprise. Sam had a prime asset in a piece of land right on a beautiful bay adjacent to his village, Naceva.

Sam began regular boat trips from Navua to Beqa hauling all the building materials and equipment necessary to renovate a home for them, build guest accommodation and a dining area to cater for visitors.

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“Finally in 2000, with five dogs, three cows and a great deal of stuff I had brought from Switzerland, we moved to Lawaki,” Christine said.“I even insisted on bringing my knitting stuff, including balls of wool that eventually went to the cockroaches or to fringe mats – and I had never even liked knitting!”

They had, she said, an awful lot to learn: “We weren’t professionals, we had to find our way through getting all the proper paperwork and permissions and gain experience on the job. I had to tell people what to do – which was really difficult for me, especially as I was also learning.”

There was also another coup and for a time they worried about the wisdom of trying to enter the tourism industry – but then decided they were probably better off in their pleasant island hideaway than anywhere else.

There were three years of hard work, acquiring an adjoining lease from the landowner, clearing thick bush and landscaping the site, building three bures with nine beds, setting up the kitchen and catering and all that went with a resort, even a small one. They finally opened to guests in 2003 and now have more bures that can cater for families, the new trend in family reunions and other groups up to 18 guests.

They come, most often through word of mouth passed around amongst work colleagues or through organisations such as the Fiji Rucksack Club but also from as far as Europe, often repeat guests over years. Among them during the recent holiday season were a young woman from Kyrgyzstan currently working with a United Nations organisation in Fiji; a cousin of Christine’s who has been escaping the snows of Switzerland to visit every season for the past five years; a Suva family, one of whom remembered the pleasant time she had on a visit 10 years previously and wanted to bring her children to the safe beach and family friendly accommodation; and Dr Peter Nuttall, University of the South Pacific academic and researcher into wind transport and traditional sailing techniques who lives aboard his yacht with his family, who enjoy Lawaki hospitality and meals onshore.

The food is limited choice but excellent meals of predominantly local produce served well, such as rourou with delicate dalo chips, a savoury tomato soup and of course, the freshest of fish.

After dinner there is often a yaqona bowl on the go or a game of cards to join and Christine and Sam ready with a smile and story or two of life on the island.

There are the usual activities available, including snorkelling, kayaking, village and school visits and romantic candlelight dining. Or do your own thing, relaxing on the never-crowded beach or swimming in the inviting water.

If lucky, the three turtles which inhabit a particular swimming spot at dusk will emerge, or the young reef sharks will show their fins cutting through the water at the other end of the beach.

But don’t be alarmed, as Nuttall’s lively sea sprite son Jack says: “There’s nothing on this reef that will harm you.”

Just in case, there is a notice board that points out possible dangers to the unwary, including cone shells that should be handled only by the blunt end. Nor should swimmers poke their fingers into live clam shells, a group of which display their colourful lips surprisingly close to shore.

Lawaki Beach House is, on the usual scale of Fiji resorts, a small operation not in the ‘de luxe’ bracket – that is for places like the Royal Davui, that perches on an islet opposite Lawaki and shares the same sort of clear sea and vibrant marine life.

But it is real luxury the way their guests see it, especially the Fiji locals who value solar powered electricity 24/7, including hot water in the bathrooms, and an unlimited supply of excellent water that includes beachside showers, taps at all verandas to wash feet free of sand and is sweetly drinkable – and importantly, a place with a clear policy of care for the environment, fostering sharing relationships with neighbouring communities and support for the marine reserve area that surrounds it.

Lawaki Beach House www.lawakibeachhjousefiji.com info@lawakibeachhousefiji.com Tel (m): 679 9921621

FIJITIME

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STAY

Surviving in

SAVUSAVU

Words & Images DELIA ROTHNIE-JONES “Dad, you could so not survive here!”

“Mum, could you?”

“No, no, no. Not for a minute.”

“How would you manage it, Dad?” “He wouldn’t….”

Actually, he might…

Ashley Gedye from Melbourne won a prize to come and see the sites where the high-rating Channel Ten TV series Australian Survivor was filmed in Savusavu last year. He brought his family along: wife Ann and kids Christian and Dana. They were all huge Survivor fans, and no one more so than Ashley who vividly remembered everything that had happened in the series at every location. A big man with a great sense of humour, boundless

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enthusiasm and an attitude that he could do just about anything if he put his mind to it, he’d even thought about applying to be in the TV series himself. It’s a big ask - anyone who is accepted needs to be able to take 3 months off work. Maybe next time…

This visit was planned to be a much easier experience: a heady trip with remote beaches, plunging in to salt and fresh water, reef snorkeling, and sun and rain. Even so, Ashley and Ann found themselves attacked by hornets at the Contenders’ beach, Dana had a sea cucumber wrap itself round her legs on a snorkel trip and Christian scared his mother witless as he swam out confidently into the deep on the reef. All part of their own Survivor experience - and in their five days, they managed to bite off a big chunk of Fijian hospitality: eating

nama (sea grapes) straight off the reef outside Vaga Gardens, feasting on fresh fish at Salt Lake where several challenges took place, and relaxing over pizza at La Dolce Vita just round the corner from the site of the Tribal Council.

Getting to the sites is quite a trek: they are mostly on land owned by local mataqalis (clans) or private landowners. Guided by Waisele, who had worked as a security guard and accompanied the group as the mata ni vanua (spokesperson), they made the traditional sevusevu (presentation of kava) at the villages who owned the tribal camps, and then drove and walked through thick jungle to get there.

The beaches are stunning: long stretches of sand fringed by coconut palms. A great place for a walk and a picnic and even a swim…but 50 days in the open? That’s life on a whole different plane. There

just isn’t that much to eat. Plenty of fish – if you have a net or a line. Lots of coconuts – if you have a cane knife to open them. Various bush nuts – if you know which ones are edible. As for fresh water for a shower, forget it. And what do you do all day? No chance of sipping cold drinks on a lounger or going for a relaxing resort massage.

On the sunny days you need to stay in the shade to avoid sunburn; on the rainy days you need to grab some extra palm fronds to reinforce the shelter.

As Ashley and his family rummaged around the sites, the reality of the sheer toughness of it all sank in.

The sites are empty now; the rudimentary shelters of the camps have gone, and the boardwalks into the Tribal Council have been taken away. The Jury Villa of course remains: a magnificent house on the top of a hill at Koro Sun Resort which housed the group of Survivors who had been voted off

but stayed behind to judge the diminishing group who remained. Devodara Beach, where a huge platform dominated the landscape during the shoot, is back to being a quiet beach with a blue lagoon where the locals swim at the weekend.

But there are a few mementoes: a tree at the beach camp where the contenders marked off each day with a small cut in the bark; a pile of charred logs where the Champions kept their fire burning; a shed with six containers where all the construction tools have been left behind in readiness for a return.

Ashley won his prize by writing a line about Survivor that made the Channel Ten judges laugh: he made a crack about how he’d be happy to eat raw crabs as part of his efforts. Now he’s seen what it was like, has he been put off?

“Not a bit. I’d love to do it. Could I survive physically? I’m sure I could. And psychologically?

That’s what the game is all about. I’d find out.”

Hospitality for the Gedye family was provided by: Accommodation and snorkeling by Daku Resort Accommodation and massages by Koro Sun Resort.

Tour of Salt Lake by Salt Lake Lodge Trip to private island by Vaga Gardens (Pettine Simpson) Pizza and relaxing break by La Dolce Vita Pearl Farm tour and snorkel trip by J Hunter Pearls Flights from Melbourne to Savusavu by Fiji Airways More information on Savusavu at http://www.fijisavusavu.com/ Fiji Link, the domestic arm of Fiji Airways flies to Savusavu twice a day from Nadi. https://www. fijiairways.com

FIJITIME

33

ECO

Wilderness and

WONDER

By MICHAEL NEWELL Photos by FEROZ KHALIL There is more to Kula Eco Park than wildlife. It is not just Fiji’s only wildlife park, but also Fiji’s only breeding facility for endangered species and Fiji’s only free environmental facility for local school children. Everything at the park is native to Fiji and there are some amazing creatures, ranging from fish and reptiles to birds and bats and even the occasional Golden Orb spider that spins a golden web.

Visitors have an opportunity to get up close and personal with a crested iguana and or a Pacific Boa. It is an extraordinary experience, getting so intimate with some of the rarest and most endangered animals on the planet.

It is also a perfect photo opportunity, so holiday makers can go home with a ‘selfie’ with an iguana amongst their souvenir snaps.

Crested Iguanas in the wild are secure only on the National Trust of Fiji’s tiny Iguana Sanctuary island of Yadua Taba. On all other islands in Fiji they are extremely rare or already extinct. The island of Monuriki was identified as a rapidly declining iguana population, but with the best chance for their long term survival. The introduction of goats to the island to improve the life of the local landowners led to the natural dry forest being destroyed by grazing, removing the only food source for the herbivorous iguanas. Iguanas are also feared by many Fijians and subject to fanciful urban legend, so they are treated with little tolerance.

The Eco park’s aim is to educate Fiji citizens about these harmless creatures and get rid of their unjustifiable bad reputation.

The breeding programme has been highly successful at helping increase the population of iguanas since it started in 2010. In four years 50 Iguanas have been successfully bred in captivity and 32 of these hatchlings have been released into the regenerating coastal forest of Monuriki.

These youngsters have been fitted with microchips so they can be identified and their weight and size monitored.

Neither the iguana nor boa are venomous so there is nothing to worry about when holding them – even if you have a fear of reptiles or snakes, still give it a go. They are both such placid creatures the experience could help you get over your fears.

There are three feeding sessions a day for the park’s Hawksbill sea turtles in which visitors can take part.

Again, visitors have the experience of getting close to some amazing creatures.

There are five different sorts of Musk Parrot to see, very talkative types that entertain visitors with cheery chat.

There are also cockatoos, one of which featured on Australian television. Flying Fox bats are not at all creepy,

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Fiji Sulphur Breasted Musk Parrot

Crested Iguana

Native Owl

Hawksbill sea turtles

but have endearing faces and are quite friendly.

The aquatic centre not only displays numerous varieties of tropical fish but also the hard and soft coral and all that the Pacific Ocean has to offer a diver, without having to get wet.

Everything in the park has signs with all the information necessary about the animals, allowing those who wish to take the option of a self-guided tour.

The wooden walkways wind through forest and open habitats making the experience like a safari. Here you share the forest park with the

animals.

Visitors can stay as long as they wish while taking in their fill of Fiji’s fascinating wildlife, all in one park. There is also a behind the scenes tour available to see the breeding centre. The staff are knowledgeable and passionate about the park and what goes on there – you will definitely leave knowing more about tropical island wildlife than you did before.

For those holidaying on the Coral Coast, Kula Ecopark is definitely a must visit, especially for the children. It is clear why the park has

won a number of tourism awards in the past few years; plus the money you spend there is going to a good cause, helping fund the breeding programme which has already saved the Monuriki Crested Iguana from what appeared to be inevitable extinction.

Kula Eco Park is located 5 minutes east of Sigatoka, opposite the Outrigger on the Lagoon Resort. www.fijiwild.com | +679 650 0505

FIJITIME

35

NATURE

Antrozous pallidus Pallid bat found in North America

Fiji’s Rare

BATS Words and photos by PADDY RYAN Bats, love ‘em or loathe them, are found on every continent except for Antarctica. They have been associated with evil in some cultures and even today there are folk who are petrified by the sight of one. While it is certainly true that bats can be harmful to humans in several ways (which we’ll explore later), on balance they are very beneficial.

Bats, Chiroptera to biologists, are the only flying mammals and have been around for a long time. The oldest bat fossil hails from 52 million years ago and they have probably been around much longer than that.

Bats can be neatly divided into two main groupings: the fruit bats, typically referred to as the Megachiroptera, and the insectivorous/carnivorous bats known as Microchiroptera. More recently, DNA evidence has come up with a slightly different classification with all the fruit bats plus a few odd-balls from the Microchiroptera grouped together and with the “traditional” microbats left in the Microchiroptera.

The fruit bats typically have large eyes and venture out from their day time roosts in search of fruit, flowers, and nectar. The expression “blind as a bat” certainly doesn’t apply to these guys who can see well at night. While a few fruit bat species roost in caves, most of them can’t navigate in the absence of light. Until recently it was considered that only one group of fruit bats could fly in complete darkness. This species produces a primitive form of sonar using tongue clicks. But new research has revealed some exciting new twists. Researchers have discovered that some fruit bats can fly in total darkness avoiding obstacles by producing “wing clicks”. How they carry out this feat is still unknown. The biologists conducting this experiment eliminated tongue clicks as a possibility by sealing the bat’s mouth and anaesthetizing the tongue (this was a temporary situation and didn’t seem to harm the bat). Subtle interference with wing beats eliminated the echo-location ability so it is almost certain the sound is wing-produced.

The megabats, sometimes known as flying foxes because of a fancied facial resemblance, include the world’s biggest bat, the clumsily named giant golden-crowned flying fox. This beauty, found only in the Philippines, is a rare animal weighing up to 1.2 kg (2.6 lbs.) and has a wingspan of up to 1.7 m (5.6’).

While some fruit bats roost in caves (but typically not very far in) most of them aggregate in trees where they form large, smelly, and noisy colonies. Hundreds of pairs of eyes easily detect approaching predators so there is safety in numbers. There are frequent social interactions

Flying fox

Pteropus samoensis Samoan fruit bat photo by Nunia Thomas

Bats roosting in rock overhang, Near Atta, Guyana

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Fruit bats, Madidi National Park, Bolivian Amazon

Desmodus rotundus, Vampire bat

as they squabble over the best roosting spot.

While normally upside down, they rotate when they need to defaecate. Some species will urinate on their wings to take advantage of the cooling effect as it evaporates. Sadly, fruit bats seem to overheat quite easily and there have been mass deaths during the recent Australian heat waves.

Fruit bats are typically beneficial to humans (although this should be irrelevant) because of their pollinating and fruit spreading abilities. Many rainforest tree species are totally dependent on fruit bats for both pollination and seed spreading. Tropical cyclones typically rip off fruit and flowers which leaves flying foxes without a food supply. After Cyclone Winston I saw a dayflying fruit bat gnaw into the bark of a leafless tree to gain access to the sap. This behavior is dangerous for the bats as Fijian peregrine falcons will take bats in flight and eat them. Starving fruit bats are often seen in the aftermath of such storms and with climate change, the damage inflicted on forest is more severe and longer lasting.

Female bats typically only give birth to one baby each year so recovery from these disasters can take decades. In addition, fruit bats are considered a delicacy in many parts of the Pacific so human hunting pressure adds an additional threat. I admit to having eaten fruit bat while camping at Lake Tagimaucia in Fiji’s Taveuni Island. But it was a long time ago and I didn’t know any better.

Fiji has one fruit bat that is not found anywhere else. This species, Mirimiri acrodonta, was discovered by Bill and Ruth Beckon in 1976 on Des Voeux Peak on Taveuni. Since that initial discovery only a few specimens have been found and it is considered very rare and is probably endangered.

The other two large species are the Pacific flying fox, Pteropus tonganus and the Samoan flying fox, Pteropus samoensis. The Pacific flying fox is widespread in the Pacific, ranging from New Guinea to the Cook Islands. The Samoan flying fox is restricted to Fiji, and the Samoas. In Samoa, which lacks peregrine falcons, it typically flies and feeds during the day. In Fiji it tends to be more nocturnal.

Fiji’s fourth fruit bat is considerably smaller than the others and mostly roosts in caves. The Fiji blossom bat, Notopteris mcdonaldi, is probably

vulnerable. This species has a long tongue which is adapted to remove nectar and pollen from flowers. Unfortunately, it is still sometimes killed and eaten by villagers which does little for its long term survival.

The Microchiroptera navigate at night using high frequency sonar. The bats produce an extremely loud (but mostly inaudible to us) burst of sound which reflects off obstacles. The bat analyses the echo to determine distance and position. To avoid being deafened by their own sound emissions, a muscle in their inner ear separates the ear bones momentarily but relaxes quickly enough to allow returning sound to be analysed.

There has been an evolutionary war between some insectivorous bats and their moth prey.

Several moth species have evolved ears that are tuned to the bat sonar frequency. When they detect that they have been sonared by a hunting bat they close their wings and drop to the ground.

But not all microbats hunt insects. Several species specialise in hunting frogs. They home in on the mating calls of male frogs. If it becomes too noisy to hear, at least one bat species can detect the movements of the frog’s vocal sac and still target the amphibian.

Fishing bats do exactly that. These bats fly over bodies of water and detect surface ripples caused by their prey. The echolocation doesn’t work under water so the bat attacks “blind”.

Fishing bats have large feet with sharp claws and they drag their feet through the water. If they are lucky the fish is still below the ripple and is snagged by the claws.

The largest carnivorous bat hails from South America. The spectral bat, Vampyrum spectrum, can reach a wing span of almost one meter (39 inches). While it primarily eats birds, including doves almost as heavy as themselves, they will also eat other bats.

Possibly the best known of the bats is the vampire. There are three species, all found in South America. The common vampire has infrared receptors on its nose and these detect areas on its victim where blood flows close to the surface. Unlike almost all other bats, vampires are adept at moving on the ground; presumably this aids them in reaching victims. They are also sensitive to the breathing sounds of their hosts.

They feed using their upper incisors which lack enamel. These teeth are extraordinarily sharp

and museum researchers are frequently cut from handling vampire skulls.

Once on the victim, the bat shaves away hair and then skin, secreting an anticoagulant saliva into the wound. A 40-gm bat can drink 20 gm of blood in 20 minutes. Flying with such a load is difficult; within 2 minutes of starting to feed, the bat is already extracting water from the blood and urinating, which reduces weight. Blood as food represents a challenge, including the risk of iron poisoning. Digestion of the blood is highly dependent on symbiotic gut bacteria. While all of this may be off-putting, vampires have a highly developed social system. Vampires may starve if deprived of food for more than a few days.

Recently fed bats will regurgitate some of their blood meal to share with sick compatriots. These recipients are often not even closely related to the donor and such altruism is considered vanishingly rare in the animal kingdom. Ailing bats can recognize donors and presumably reciprocate should roles become reversed.

Although bats may carry rabies and act as a repository for the Ebola virus and Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome, the benefits they bring to humans outweigh the negatives. An insectivorous bat can eat its own weight of insects during one night and prey includes mosquitoes and many other economically devastating species.

Fiji has two insectivorous bats; the sheath-tailed bat, Emballonura semicaudata and the Fijian freetailed bat Tadarida bregullae which is also found in low numbers in Vanuatu. Both species roost in caves and this makes them vulnerable to human interference. Recognising this fact, the Rainforest Trust and Bat Conservation International, together with local partner the National Trust of Fiji, purchased over 8 hectares (20 acres) around and including Nakanacagi Cave on Vanua Levu, Fiji’s second largest island. Dedicated in July 2018 this represents an enormous step forward for bat conservation in Fiji.

While you are here enjoy the sight of fruit bats heading out to feed at dusk. If you visit one of the smaller offshore islands watch for insectivorous bats feeding around the lights. If you are on Taveuni you maybe lucky enough to see the Fiji fruit bat, but unless you can see its eyes (which are orange) you may never know for sure. Happy batting.

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EAT

Ramen

ROUSING

By PRIYA DARSNI The world’s fourth largest economy belongs to Japan, a country that ranks only sixty-third in the world by size. This small island nation pulls its weight on the global scale with exports unrivalled by other countries — one look at the key exports list to a production powerhouse like China reveals how Japan managed to hit $4.8 trillion in GDP last year.

Today, Japan exports key products such as machinery, electronics, vehicles, iron, copper and steel to China; however, it wasn’t long ago that one of China’s products landed on the shores of Japan and transformed their identity.

In 1859, the Chinese brought over a product called la (to pull) main (noodle) — noodles made of wheat flour, alkaline water and eggs, which the Chinese served in a chicken soup broth. This dish spread like wildfire in popularity and quickly became the staple in Japanese diets with the name eventually morphing from la-main to “ramen”. The Japanese experimented with different flavours in the broth, the first one being shout ramen which has soy sauce flavoured soup and a variety of toppings to suit each broth.

I was scrolling through the aforementioned history of ramen as my watch ticked over

swarmed by me as I stood in line for a seat and a bowl of ramen at Rokurinsha, the best the city has to offer I was told. Every preconceived element of Japanese pop culture was coming to life before my eyes — huddled teenagers with noses deep in Nintendo Switches, adolescents perched against walls in their own restaurant lines reading comics, families with little children wearing white cotton breathing masks marching through for the next train and a herd of working men slurping down their meals before heading back to their jobs. The Japanese phenomenon of Karōshi, translated to “death by overworking” came to my mind as I took three steps forward in the line without breaking my trance.

Rokurinsha had been recommended by a friend from Japan whom I had met through work — Nobu and his wife had spent 18 months in New Zealand on an office exchange between the Tokyo and Auckland. I would be meeting them for a day out tomorrow exploring the historical landmarks of Tokyo — Meiji Shrine in Harajuku, Sensō-ji Temple in the Asakusa district and the Imperial Palace in Marunouchi.

I finally reached the front of the line after a whopping two hours and gladly took a seat on a stool at the bench facing the kitchen.

were a bowl was steaming hot broth made of pork stock and seafood.

My peripherals scanned the behaviours around this small ramen shop and I quickly learnt that I was meant to place noodles onto my soup spoon then dip the spoon into the broth before eating — it would have been a cardinal sin for me to dip the entire bowl of chilled noodles into the hot soup, I was told the next day

by Nobu. The rich, punchy flavour of the broth was uplifting and I instantly forgot about the hours I had spent waiting. I was equally glad that I had ordered 750 grams of these incredibly textured noodles — never in my life have I eaten that much ramen in one sitting, which in itself is a testament to the mastery of Rokurinsha.

The famous Japanese comic book and anime character, Naruto, loves ramen and more than anything loves ramen served at Ichiraku’s, which is a local ramen shop in the fictional Hidden Leaf Village. Throughout my time in Tokyo, I tried many other ramen shops and there were a few that stood out— but none matched that meal. I would have waited days for the Tsukemen at Rokurinsha — it is my Ichiraku and a top recommendation to anyone visiting Japan’s capital.

another minute — I had been standing in line for the last twenty-five minutes and my feet had just landed on a blue circle painted onto the floor reading, “Waiting time is about 45 minutes from here”. I was on the ground floor of Tokyo Station, which in itself is a bustling underground metropolis.

A whole world of after-hours Tokyo

The most popular dish on their menu, and the one recommended by Nobu, was the Tsukemen, ramen noodles that were served separately to the broth. I ordered 750 grams with a sense of gusto — I had waited so long, I was going to get my times worth! Within minutes, cold and thick buckwheat noodles layered gracefully together came before me and next to them

TOKYO Rokurinsha AFURI Ebisu Fuunji Ichiran Shibuya Nakiryu

TOP 5 RAMEN RECOMMENDATIONS IN

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CORPORATE

Fijian Corporate

RETREATS The growing number of business travellers to Fiji is a testament to the appeal the island country has for corporates. It’s no secret that corporate retreats are gaining popularity in the international business circles. Cue, the destination corporate retreat to Fiji. A retreat is an excellent way to unite the team and what better way to celebrate corporate success. Fiji has ideal locations to combine business and leisure, or to just chill out and leave the corporate life behind for some well deserved relaxation time in corporate friendly Fiji.

SUVA: GRAND PACIFIC HOTEL The elegant ‘Grand Old Lady’, the Grand Pacific Hotel retains some of its historic colonial era sections between more recently built wings. It is popular for a-list events and state visits including the recent stay by the Duke and Duchess of Sussex, who were following in the footsteps of Prince Harry’s grandmother, Queen Elizabeth II, who stayed at the GPH many decades ago during a Royal Visit.

Located on the Suva foreshore this architectural beauty offers many conference rooms with a wide range of options. It has easy access to the lively Suva CBD and to the museum, markets and shopping district. Return to dinner at Levuka, GPH’s fine dinning restaurant.

PACIFIC HARBOUR: NANUKU AUBERGE RESORT Nanuku Auberge Resort at Pacific Harbour adventure capital tops our list and those of large multi-nationals that have repeatedly booked the entire resort for their best performing staff. Beachside location, private island and cheerful staff all the ingredients to activate and rejuvenate.

Team building activities are a strong part of a ‘workation’ stay at Nanuku with exercises that fuel light hearted competition while firming friendships between colleagues.

Activities include being marooned on the resort’s private cay, learning about Fijian culture by participating in making a traditional lovo (earth oven cooking) and hearing Fijian history through storytelling. There are also visits to local organic farms, diving, a jungle skirmish and zip lining, or cruising up river on a Fijian stand-up paddle board called a bamboo bilibili.

THE INTERCONTINENTAL FIJI RESORT & SPA The Intercontinental Fiji Resort and Spa is a world-class corporate facility situated on the Coral Coast. An awardwinning venue and an experienced team ensures seamless organisation for a corporate retreat/business meet. If mixing business and leisure, the Watercourt Conference Centre is right to host your meeting of minds. Air-conditioned conference and meeting rooms include a ballroom seating up to 450, three 125 delegate theatre style meeting rooms

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Photos NANUKU AUBERGE RESORT

Photo INTERCONTINENTAL FIJI RESORT & SPA

and plenty of space for displays or trade exhibits.

For leisure think drinks at the private club lounge with an infinity pool, five star on site day spa, water activities and the famous Natadola Bay championship golf course. Plus Navo, the highly acclaimed fine dining restaurant.

TROPICA ISLAND RESORT – MAMANUCA ISLANDS Low-key luxury is a secluded island home at Tropica Island resort, an intimate sanctuary catering for group bookings. The small-scale corporate retreat focuses on balancing health, wellness and fun with tailored packages. Privacy is paramount, there are beachfront villas with private plunge pools anyone and only 17 suites. This is an adults only resort.

Guests can use kayaks, stand up paddleboards and hobie cats to explore the calm beaches and crystal lagoons, a peaceful vibe permeates the sprawling gardens while reef excursions and yoga sessions encourage bonding

Photos TROPICA ISLAND RESORT

and connection with the environment. Far away from the business scene, Tropica Island revitalises and refreshes.

Tip: book in for a massage at the quaint day spa here and let all your work worries slide away.

More companies are looking to strike a harmonious balance between holiday and health. An incentive and reward based corporate retreat is a smart choice to increase job satisfaction and efficiency, while relaxation can lead to increased revenue when staff return to work refreshed and with a positive attitude. www.grandpacifichotel.com.fj www.nanukuauberge.com www.tropicaisland.com www.fiji.intercontinental.com

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URBAN

URBAN FIJI

Exploring the Fijian towns and cities

Labasa

Savusavu

Ba Lautoka Nadi

Levuka Sigatoka Suva

Beyond the brilliant beaches, striking blue waters and the rain forested mountain ranges, Fiji has an often-unacknowledged attraction — the growing, pulsating urban centres that teem with vibrant island business life. There are laptop wielding millennials, multistorey department stores, exciting arcades and thriving enterprises everywhere. As Fiji develops further as the hub of the South Pacific and as international business expands, including the evergrowing MICE industry (meetings, incentives, conferences and exhibitions tourism), there is more of Fiji worth exploring for business and pleasure.

From the capital Suva to the old capital Levuka, there is a little bit of urban Fiji that will suit your fancy.

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SUVA

By RUTH CORNISH and EMILY BELL As you walk down the main street in Suva, Victoria Parade, you will see many friendly, smiling faces. “Bula!” you hear them say as you walk by. Family businesses line side by side with popular Fijian brands, such as Jack’s clothing store. The smell of freshly baked bread from Bread Kitchen lazes in the air.

The sun is out, but you are not going to the beach.

You are about to discover a different side of Fiji, one that is often not experienced by visitors who stick to the beaches and resorts.

If you like to shop you have come to the right place. There are two large shopping centres: Tapoo City, a modern development boasting four floor’s worth of browsing material, including a food court and a bar. The other, MHCC, located across the road, offers a centre with three floors.

It is is a little less international and has more of a Fijian feel to it.

If you are, however, looking to step away from modern franchises and experience the true Fijian shopping culture, then the Municipal markets are for you. Located near the Capital’s bus station, there is a flea market, selling all kinds of locally sourced and fashioned materials. There are clothes and trinkets available that would make great gifts for those back home. Perhaps you will buy a sulu, or a traditional Fijian woven fan?

Across the road, there is also a food market offering a wide variety of locally grown fruits and vegetables, offering a colourful culinary paradise.

Perhaps you will stop by at one of Suva’s many coffee shops for an iced latte or fruity smoothie, in need of a break from the crowds and the sun.

If the weather isn’t in your favour then go to the Village 6 Cinema, located next to Tappoo. A large development, Village 6 shows all the latest releases from Hollywood and Bollywood for a very reasonable price.

If the weather is in your favour, however, as it most usually is, you can relax in Ratu Sukana Park. This small sea front park, located just off the Main Street in Suva, always has people basking in the sun and taking in the beautiful view of the harbour and the surrounding mountains.

Go on, join them.

Although excitingly busy, Suva still runs on ‘Fiji Time’; everyone possesses the happy and relaxed manner that emulates Fijian residents.

GETTING THERE From Nadi: a three and a half hour coach journey. Sunbeam Transport and Fiji Express Buses offer the most reliable service and depart every couple of hours.

By ferry: there are regular services to and from Vanua Levu and Taveuni.

By plane: Suva does not have an airport but Nausori International Airport is only 23km away and Nadi Airport a 4 hour bus ride away.

SEE & DO SCUBA DIVING CLUB If you are a regular diver, an expert or a beginner, Suva’s scuba diving club offers day trips, excursions and weekends away along the mesmerising coral coast. Go on, jump in.

Location: Royal Suva Yacht Club, Suva.

Contact: 927 9938 Opening times: Mon – Sat. 10am – 4pm.

THE FLEA MARKET A variety of colourful original Fijian clothes and trinkets await you.

Location: Howell Road, Suva.

Contact: 331 3749 USP FITNESS CENTRE The University of the South Pacific is a short walk from Suva’s city centre, and offers a wide range of fitness equipment available to use at a low cost, without a nasty contract.

Contact: (679) 323 2625 Opening times: Mon – Fri. 5am – 9pm.

Saturday & Sunday. 7am – 6pm.

COLO-I-SUVA FOREST PARK Experience a sub-tropical rainforest that offers hiking trails, bird watching and swimming, all leading to a series of ethereal waterfalls.

Contact: (679) 3320211 Opening times: 8am -4pm WHITE WATER RAFTING Indulge your adventurous side and experience Fiji’s waterfalls and rainforest. Pick up from Pacific harbour (an hour’s bus ride away).

Location: Highlands in Viti Levu. Pick up point: Pacific Harbour, Rivers Fiji Office.

Contact: 3450147 Opening times: Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday at 6:45am- 6pm.

VILLAGE 6 CINEMA Located on Scott St in the heart of the city is Village 6 Cinema, showing all the latest Western and Bollywood releases. Go on a Tuesday for discounted ticket prices.

Location: 6 Scott Street, Suva Contact: 3306006.

FIJI MUSEUM Located amongst Suva’s botanical gardens, the Fiji museum has an archaeological archive of cultural findings dating back 3,700 years. If you are not satisfied with the surface material of Fiji, come and dig a little deeper on this fantastic family day out.

Location: Govt. Bldgs, Suva.

Contact: 3315944

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SIGATOKA

By CLAIRE POYNTON Photos by FEROZ KHALIL At the mouth of the longest river in Viti Levu that exits at the famous Fiji Coral Coastline lies the scenic town of Sigatoka. About an hour from Nadi and Fiji’s international airport, this charming rural centre is not far from your aircraft’s touchdown and has as much to offer as you have time.

After being officially incorporated as a town in 1959 and run by a small town council, Sigatoka has developed from a banana plantation centre to Fiji’s ‘salad bowl’ because of the bounteous production of fruit, vegetables and spices in the adjacent Sigatoka Valley.

This small municipality has also produced some of Fiji’s most successful sportsmen and women. The local Nadroga Rugby Union Team has won a number of locally sponsored rugby competitions and has taken home the coveted Llyod-Farebrother trophy a grand total of 81 times. Such as the success in the sport and the influence of the provincial rugby team on the national side that Sigatoka has been named the ‘Rugby Town’ of Fiji. Not to mention the first Fijian Paralympic gold medalist Iliesa Dalana was born and raised in Sigatoka.

With such an interesting background, it is not really astonishing that small Sigatoka has adapted

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to host the grand number of tourists who come to visit. It’s a mere five minute drive from central Sigatoka to Hideaway Hotel, a tropical resort in featuring lush surroundings with the opportunity to go snorkeling and diving. For a high end stay, Intercontinental Fiji Resort and Spa, Shangri-La Fijian Resort and Spa, Outrigger Beach Resort and Warwick Fiji Resort and Spa all offer a luxury stay, all within a 20 minute drive of the town.

A visit to Sigatoka is incomplete without investigating the activities scene. Near the small village of KuluKulu two kilometres away is where to find the enchanting Sigatoka sand dunes, with a wealth of information about the early inhabitants and the unique flora and fauna of the area. Fiji’s first international model, Philippa Steele also calls Kulukulu home. Then there is Kula Eco Park, an award winning ecological preserve which houses more than 500 birds, all species from various tropical islands. If a day exploring the Sigatoka River appeals, a jet boat safari powers through 17 kilometers of fascinating riverside scenery and includes lunch, a village tour and traditional Fijian kava ceremony. For those who constantly seek adventure, the Naihehe Caves will provide an Indiana Jones experience to remember. It begins going by four wheel drive vehicle up and off road ending with a greeting and kava ceremonial by a priest before entering the caves for a guided tour. Then lose yourself,

although not literally, in the 170 metre stretch of mysterious cave with its foreboding atmosphere, somewhere in which lies a cannibal oven use by the last tribe that lived in there many years ago.

If just passing through Sigatoka town, Beach Bar n’ Grill is worth a stop to fill up. With fresh local fish given a stunning presentation, this place has scored rave reviews. Le Cafe Fiji is another place to grab a quick, satisfying bite. Those looking for a night out may have to venture to Nadi as Sigatoka is primarily a peaceful, laid back place, especially after dark, so grab a few drinks at dinner and just enjoy your time.

PLACES TO EAT Navo restaurant at Intercontinental Fiji Golf Resort and Spa Le Cafe Fiji Gecko’s Restaurant Beach Bar n’ Grill Grill Seekers Cafe Beach Cocomo Vakacegu THINGS TO DO Sigatoka Sand Dunes Kula Eco Park Naihehe Caves Sigatoka River Safari

NADI

By CLAIRE POYNTON & BRONWYN DONOVAN Photos by FEROZ KHALIL & NAZIAH ALI As the closest city to Fiji’s main international airport, Nadi has become one of the most visited tourist destinations in the country, with the highest concentration of hotels in the whole 330 islands. Once a bustling sugar cane town, Nadi has transformed over the years to cater for the continuous stream of tourists that arrive daily through Nadi Airport.

Nadi’s population has grown to around 50, 000 and continues to increase. With a large number of townspeople of Indian descent, Nadi is home to the colourful Sri Siva Subramaniva Temple, the largest Hindu temple in the Southern hemisphere.

Nadi’s economy is based mainly on tourism, so it is no surprise to find some of the best hotels in the area. Smugglers Cove Beach Resort and Bluewater Lodge are both popular backpackers’ choices, offering shared dorms or a private room options. Other hotels include Bamboo Hostel, Oasis Palms, the Novotel, Tanoa International and Mercure Nadi in the mid range, all within a short taxi ride of the international airport.

For a more luxurious stay, try Denarau Island, connected to the mainland by a short causeway.

Only 5km from Nadi and 10km from the airport, Denarau is the site of the Hilton Fiji Resort and Spa, Sofitel Fiji Resort and Spa, Sheraton Fiji Resort Denarau, The Westin Denarau Island Resort and Spa, Wyndham Resort Denarau, Golf Terraces, and Radisson Blu Fiji Resort.

Any of Nadi’s hotels or hostels will have a touristbooking desk, a necessity as there is too much to do in and around the local area. Choices include a day aboard a speedboat, island hopping to the Manamuca group (22 islands boasting adventure activities and sunbathing opportunities) or even dropping anchor for some fishing. Visitors can also spend the day on Cloud 9, a floating restaurant and bar in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. For a day of both tranquility and adventure, head to the Garden of the Sleeping Giant and participate in one of their famous zipline tours. About 10 minutes further along the same road, treat your skin to some TLC at Sabeto Hot Springs and Mud Pool. For a more traditional Fijian feel, don’t miss Navala Village. Navala is three combined settlements located in the Ba

Highlands, nestled between tall mountains and ridges. It is the only village that has maintained the traditional use of thatched buildings (bure) and traditional iTaukei architecture. Going higher still, get that adrenaline rush that can only come from skydiving. Get dirty and explore the highlands and rivers of Nadi on a quad bike or buggy from Westside Motorbike rentals. It’s a fun and adventurous way to explore the beautiful scenery, splash into the rivers and meet some locals. Whatever you’re wanting, Nadi will have something for you to enjoy.

For good quality local cuisine try Tu’s Place in Martintar. You will be rolling out the door full and satisfied from their large portions and fresh produce. You can hop across to Taste Fiji for their delicious breakfast or better still, try their desserts. For an outdoor dining experience try Small Plates a short distance walk along the main street in Martintar. The ambience and the delicious food will keep you there for a couple of hours. To opt for something different, there’s Japanese chain restaurant Daikoku on Northern Press Road in Martintar. The taste, quality, service and price of Daikoku are more than reasonable. Good old Italian and large tasty pizzas are served at Mama’s Pizza on Main St. The New Farmers Club on Ashram Road in Nadi town is a well-loved restaurant that serves good value pub grub. New Farmers Club often serves traditional Fijian Lovo lunch and dinner specials for only $20. After a hearty lunch don’t miss exploring the rest of the town. There are numerous handicraft stores with local art and fashion; get a massage at one of the day spas around town before picking up fresh sliced pineapples or watermelons from the fruit and vegetable market. For Chinese Cuisine, LC’s Restaurant in Namaka is good for lunch and dinner.

Hilton Fiji Beach Resort Sheraton Fiji Westin Resort and Spa PLACES TO EAT IN NADI Tu’s Place Daikoku (Japanese) The New Farmers Club Bulaccino Cafe & Hemisphere Bar Mama’s Pizza PLACES TO EAT IN DENARAU Nadina (authentic Fijian cuisine) Rhum Ba Indigo (Indian and Asian cuisine) Cardos Steakhouse Amalfi (Italian cuisine) THINGS TO DO Go Dirty with Westside Motorcycles Sabeto Hot Springs and Mud Pool Garden of the Sleeping Giant and Zipline tours Sri Siva Subramaniya Temple Cloud 9 Sky Dive

PLACES TO STAY IN NADI Novotel (mid range) Tanoa International Hotel (mid range) Mercure (mid range) Smugglers Cove Beach Resort (budget) Trans International Hotel (mid range) PLACES TO STAY IN DENARAU Radisson Blu Fiji Resort Sofitel Resort and Spa

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LEVUKA

By MARGO LEGER Photos by KAMA CATCH ME Levuka, on the scenic island of Ovalau, shows the intrepid traveller a different side of Fiji. Steeped in history, this recently appointed World Heritage site adds a new layer of understanding to the Fiji experience. This historical Port of the Pacific was settled by Europeans in the early 1800s, and served as a hub of commercial activity for the Americans and British. Their influence on the style and the feel of this seaside town is still visible in the architecture. It is difficult to walk anywhere around town without coming across quaint buildings, old schools and historic churches. Part of Levuka’s distinction is through

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its central role in the creation of the Fiji of today . It has seen many firsts - the first police station, bank, post office. It was even the first place in Fiji to get electricity - three days before the lights went on in Suva. Levuka, Fiji’s capital from 1871 – 1877 and once an important commercial and political centre, has retired to a relaxed lifestyle.

In some ways, the town is showing signs of age, with paint flaking off the wooden walls of the beautiful old buildings. A couple of shops have closed, and tourism has slowed in recent years.

The recent World Heritage site naming expresses the potential of the town, but hasn’t dramatically increased the flow of visitors. Yet instead of being a negative, the slow charm of Levuka creates amongst those who do make the visit a sense of

authenticity and a desire to stop and stay a while.

From the groups of school children walking along the sea wall, to the men watching rugby in a local convenience store, there is a sense that this is a place that values people. My taxi driver told me: “Levuka is my hidden paradise and its treasure is its people.” My visit to Levuka came alive when I started meeting the characters in the community.

From John and Marilyn at the Levuka Homestay, to Knox my tour guide, the colorful restaurant managers and shop owners, I felt like I could connect to this sleepy frontier town through their warmth and openness. Come to Levuka for the history and its photogenic charm. But stay a while for the people. It is in this connection that you’ll find many reasons to return.

BA

By Naziah Ali Photos by FEROZ KHALIL Surrounded by mountain ranges that boast dramatic peaks and rolling hills, and perched on the edge of the river with the same name, Ba town attracts the intrepid traveller.

Blessed with the astonishing beauty of its valley setting, Ba has banked a store of good fortune by being a town often overlooked. While not your typical holiday destination, its small-town charm means visitors get to experience the raw authenticity of it all, a place full of interesting characters and a whole lot of soul.

Ba is considered an old town in Fiji and celebrated its 75th anniversary last year.

Residents experience daily what travellers come to see: the historic Rarawai sugar mill and a lively downtown filled with restaurants, shops and a museum.

Well off the beaten track, Ba was a thriving cane-growing centre during the peak years of the sugar industry and still retains a traditional character that has been lost by most small towns.

Small, colorful, old wooden buildings continue to line the main square undisturbed as they did 75 years ago. The old cinema with its faded paint and art deco style was never updated, and the old civic building continues to stand in the centre of town, still a symbol of pride for the people.

And all along, there has lived a core of Ba residents, farmers and a scattering of

On a hot day, dozens of juice corners around the market make popular hangouts for those wanting to feel cool and refreshed. In its square there is a tree providing shade for visitors while children brave the heat to slide and play in the park. A monument commemorating ex-servicemen of Ba also stands proudly in the town square.

newcomers who always understood they resided in a special place. Even on a single visit it is obvious how this old place and its timeless style has been rediscovered and carefully tended by those who call it home.

Ba is an agricultural centre, populated mostly by Indo-Fijians, which makes it a cultural point for tourists.

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URBAN

LABASA

By ANA VURU Secluded on the sunny north shore of Vanua Levu in Fiji with three sister mountains as a backdrop lies the sleepy, tree-fringed town of Labasa. A smell of molasses leads to a large sugar mill on the other side of the river about 1.5km out of town, an indication of the area’s sugar rich history. Most of Labasa’s population are the descendants of the Indian indentured laborers who were brought to Fiji to work on sugar plantations.

Labasa is still a relaxed place compared to the busy life of Fiji’s capital, Suva, but today this vintage town is a service and administrative

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centre with industries that are slowly picking up pace as new shopping centres and stores pop up along the main drag, Nasekula Road.

There are comfortable places to stay with attractive views, including the newly refurbished North Pole Hotel in the centre of town, which has a good restaurant and bar. The Grand Eastern Hotel, one of the oldest in Labasa, is located on Rosawa Street near the river. Hotel Takia, located centrally on Nasekula road has modest rates, a nightclub and is walking distance to many facilities.

Palmlea Farmers Lodge, at 1 Yalava Rd is a unique property operating on solar power and using fresh water from the nearby mountain. The

luxurious wood villas offer breathtaking views of the outer reef and turquoise lagoon.

The Naag Mandir and Cobra Rock is 10km from the turning of Wainikoso Rd in Labasa, past two small temples painted bright blue, red and yellow. Several hundred devotees visit the snake temple every day. It is built around Cobra Rock, a formation that resembles a cobra poised to strike. Beautiful Korovatu beach edges a copra plantation just a few kilometers away.

A visit to Labasa is not complete without seeing the market located next to the Labasa River.

The best of Vanua Levu’s fresh delights from land and sea can be found there. Buy a heap of mangoes, a slice of pineapple or some juicy local watermelon while strolling through. The cheery women in the “parcel” lane serve up helpings of some of the locals’ favourite foods including fish, salad, eggs and cassava. Grab a parcel and sit by the river while watching fishermen come in with a hard day’s catch.

Other interesting places to eat in this quiet town include the Horse Shoe opposite Labasa Civic Centre, which has some of the tastiest fast food in town and a friendly staff. The Banana Leaf in Nasekula Rd serves delicious Indian and Chinese meals and offers good customer service. The Lunch Box, which recently opened in the heart of Labasa, has fast food, pizza and coffee.

Those looking for nightlife should try Pontoon on the main street and Fusion nightclub, where locals hang out for a good time.

SAVUSAVU

By FARAZ ALI Photos FEROZ KHALIL and SKYWARD INDUSTRIES The locals call this town Na Kama, which means the fire or burning owing to the hot springs that were formed during millennia of volcanic activity, surging through the land like blood through

Fiji Link plane. The town’s relative isolation from the main island of Viti Levu has led to its most common moniker ‘The Hidden Paradise’.

Savusavu is also a surprising foodies paradise.

For some of the best pizzas in the Pacific look no further than the local icon, the Captain’s Café at the Copra Shed. Where you can enjoy a slice (or a whole pizza) in the cool beer garden,

happening with the metal sculptor Shane Bower who is from, so appropriately, Na Kama. Twisting and turning metal for installations all over Fiji here in his home town of Savusavu, there’s a chance of bumping into this elusive artist at work in his studio. Alternatively, view his work in the impressive little art gallery at the Copra Shed.

For hand printed kaftans, the Galleria is located

pulsating vessels, ultimately emptying themselves in the sea. At low tide it is mesmerizing to watch the steam rise where the hot springs meet the cool waters of picturesque Savusavu Bay. It is a reminder to all who are lucky enough to call this place home and those fortunate enough to visit that this place is on fire.

The town itself is a perpetual postcard waiting to happen, nestled against a glittering bay and backed by greenest of hills under burning sun. It is an interesting sensation – this heat from above and heat from below. The beauty is framed by rainbow reefs, best seen from the window of a

sipping a sundowner and listening to local musicians play in the open air. For a curry fix, there is none better than the Country Kitchen, and for something a little more serious, Surf and Turf brings the best of a five star meal to a comfortable setting along the bay. Surf and Turf is a “must try before you die” sort of place, with head chef Vijendra Kumar having the experience of working in three of Savusavu’s most exclusive kitchens for 20 years before bringing out his skills for everyone to enjoy. This is typically Savusavu – the best for everyone.

For creative souls there is a definite art scene

in the same building as Surf and Turf and for authentic Fijian carvings, there’s no better place than Island Crafts and Souvenirs.

If the hot springs that burn beneath the town are the ‘pulsating vessels’, then the people of Savusavu are the beating heart that keeps up the heat. Despite all the change around them and the development due to the growing popularity of their town, the people remain the same - free spirited and independant. There is no shortage of the sound of laughter in Savusavu, nor smiles or the all too familiar thundering “bula” said with generous spirit.

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LAUTOKA

By RUTH CORNISH Photos FEROZ KHALIL The sun shines down as I walk Naviti Street in Lautoka, so I stop for a moment to enjoy the refreshing sea breeze. I look down to my side, an old iTaukei man sits on the pavement selling fresh lemons and smiles at me. I pass a variety of eclectic shops and boutiques on my way to the Municipal Markets. Its midday, there is loud, excited chatter and colourful produce everywhere you look. A lively, Fijian atmosphere surrounds the markets, a taste of true Fijian culture.

Palm trees shade almost every roadside in

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Lautoka.. You will never be far from exotic greenery, as small parks and trees are round every corner. Perhaps the most vibrant will be found at the City’s Botanical Gardens, home to a variety of tropical plants and water features.

I leave the market, but being surrounded by all the succulent fresh fruit and veg has made me hungry. Down Vitogo Parade I pass Chinese restaurants, takeaway shops and hot food kiosks but decide to stop at an interesting place on Tukani Street called the Chilli Tree Cafe. My rumbling tummy is delighted by the extensive menu scrawled over a blackboard behind the counter. There is an all day breakfast menu, offering eggs and beans on toast to honey and

pancakes but I’m enticed by the ‘make your own sandwich’ counter, which offers a different selection of meats, cheeses and salads.

The sun continues to shine as I leave the café, so with a full stomach I head to the sea front.

Strolling along the sea wall I watch graceful sailing boats making their way to and from shore and the gorgeous day allows a clear view of beautiful Bekana Island.

Lautoka is a city that offers a different kind of experience of Fiji at a strolling pace. Although close to Nadi, it’s still off the beaten track, and while not necessarily focussing on providing for tourists, the beautiful parks, individual cafes and picturesque sea front make it a city worth visiting.

ADVENTURE

Explore Fiji’s underwater world like Natewa Bay on page 52. Photo SARA CARLSON

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The sandy banks of the Rewa River

STAY

Out on a Top Road

TRIPPING

By SEONA SMILES Photos by MARGARET CHUNG We said 6am and by crikey, there we were, fuelled up and belted into our four wheel drive, setting out to follow the road across the top of Fiji’s main island of Viti Levu, from Suva in the south east corner to Tavua on the north coast. If I was fit enough to climb up into the vehicle I reckoned I was set to do the trip.

The road we set out on was a tarsealed dream, winding first through Colo I Suva, a popular forest reserve with cool mountain water swimming pools.

Then down past a respected girls’ boarding school, Adi Cakobau at Sawani. Still in top condition, the road led on along the upper reaches of the Rewa and later the Wainimala rivers, through ginger and vegetable farms to cattle country.

The early morning mist still lay on the hills ahead – a lot less frightening than when it lifted and we saw what we were going to tackle. Having done the easy bit, I swapped places and let my travelling companion take the wheel because she knew the mountain area by heart. Only later did I realise that she had seen it from walking tracks and bus windows, not drivers’ seats, while doing doctoral research fieldwork.

Crossing Naqali Bridge brought back hilarious memories of an earlier adventure, when we had taken two splendidly built traditional bamboo rafts down the Wainimala with a load of friends. The rafts had been constructed in Nabukaluka village by skilled craftsmen assembled by our friend Kavakini Navuso. They appeared in stunning convey around the river bend where we had waited, resplendent with red ginger decorating the thatched ‘cabins’ with their comfortable grass floors. There were even fireplaces on the back. Surrounded by a nippy flotilla of boys on smaller bilibili rafts, we had floated gently as far as Naqali by nightfall and camped there on a sandbank, drinking wine and eating somebody’s birthday cake. People fell into the river, got stuck in mud and were alarmed by cows, with much hilarity.

The next day, the river was slower and we eventually had to abandon ship at Muaniweni, a

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The fertile foothills and valleys are home to farms and villages

place we could get a carrier truck to take us home. Alas, the nickname for such vessels, HMS No Come Back, is regrettably true, the fine craftsmanship was ultimately dismantled and pieces used for some other purpose.

The way began to look a little more rural, the runway-smooth tarseal disappearing completely.

In a village a duck ushered its brood of fluffy ducklings across the road with fine disregard for vehicles, four wheel or otherwise, and further along a gang of chickens hogged an intersection where we stopped to check our direction.

There were the usual Fijian politenesses to be exchanged, where we were from, where we were going, before being reassured that yes, to the right was the right way.

My companion speaks fluent Fijian, which is a plus for engaging in the niceties of conversation and getting the directions correctly. However almost all Fijians, even in rural outposts, speak excellent English so nobody could be lost for long even without a GPS. Further along we even found a helpful sign, ‘Serea Lasalevu Rd to Ionosavu’, which actually should have read ‘Monosavu’ if someone hadn’t scratched out most of the ‘M’.

Another moment of confusion was cleared by a couple of secondary students in spotlessly clean uniforms, neat hair and skin glowing with coconut oil walking to school for Saturday classes. My companion driver had once been a teacher and pointed out some of the large, wellmaintained schools in villages we passed, telling me of the tremendous efforts made by farming and village parents to have their children well educated. One school had maintained a proud

record of having all 100% of its students sitting one of the annual public exams achieving passes.

One way and another, we made our way along a road that got more and more challenging. For some who are used to Australian outback tracks and those who have driven extreme mountain ranges, the Monosavu-Nadarivatu route is not so bad. There are hairpin bends, sure, and the occasional stray boulder and slippery river gravel, even some deepening ruts. But the road is well bedded with stone and appears well maintained. Compared to many in Fiji that become eroded by the inevitable tropical rain, it is an exciting but safe drive.

A reason could be that it leads to the Monosavu Dam, heart of Viti Levu’s hydro electricity supply built on the Nanuku river and opened in 1983. The road is probably used by the people who keep it all running. We reached the point where there is a distant view of the water and a monument of some sort – what, we never found out because the two presumably metal plaques had apparently been removed. The dam is 60 kilometres (I imagine as the crow flies) from Suva and it was now several hours since we had started out. So would we do a side trip to see the dam? Nah, off to further heights – Nadarivatu.

This former colonial settlement is an access point to Fiji’s highest mountain, Mt Victoria, and has a charming old forestry lodge (www.fiji. travel/us/accommodation/stone-bowl-lodge) now locally owned and well maintained, that provides accommodation. I once stayed there in the cooler weather, and although not really needed, we lit the old open fire and cooked dinner on a wood stove. Also set fire to a teacloth, but

managed to stamp it out before endangering the forest. Nadarivatu is all about the scenery, interesting walks, bird watching and a pleasant village visit can be organised also.

We were then only an hour or so from our destination and beginning to get hungry, so we wound our way down to the rolling hills and flatlands towards Tavua, catching glimpses of the sea and distant islands as we went and the vegetation grew more sparse. Also gone were the winding stretches of shallow, clear river spilling over expanses of smooth, water worn stones that we had crossed and re-crossed.

It was about six hours since we had left home when we rolled into hot and dusty Tavua town, located on the main northern Kings Highway near the gold mine centre of Vatukoula. There is an interesting hotel there that has hints of the colonial past and a curved lounge with a view of the town. There were also quite a few new buildings and cafes since I had been there last, but it still took some time to find a curry house that we both agreed on.

Fortified by spicy chicken, we whizzed up the nicely sealed, scenic highway that would eventually take us back to unload our pictures and argue about what was the best part. My companion driver did some regretful sighing about the distant Nadrau Plateau, high in the mountains in the heart of Viti Levu, but how was I to know it was her longstanding dream destination. It’s not only a wild drive from the western side of the island, I suspect it also involves actual walking.

“Next time,” I lied.

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CORAL

The shallows of

SAVUSAVU Words & Images SARA CARLSON & MATTHEW NORMAN Warm water coral reefs cover less than 0.1% of Earth’s surface, but Fiji boasts some of the best access to this diverse and important ecosystem.

From Savusavu, on Fiji’s big island of Vanua Levu, there is fascinating marine life right offshore that doesn’t necessarily require SCUBA equipment to explore and appreciate, if you just know where to look All the photos in this article have been taken around the Savusavu area on basic compact digital cameras at depths shallower than 5m (15ft), and many have been taken whilst snorkeling. A benefit of taking photos close to the surface is that the light penetration brings out the stunning colors that disappear at depth. Technology has improved to the point where underwater cameras can be very affordable, housings are available for most models of compact and SLR cameras, and even some phones are capable of impressive shots. Of course having expensive equipment and training helps, but you do not need to spend a fortune to get some stunning images underwater.

Being comfortable in the water will go a long way towards seeing more and getting quality photos, as it’s important to take your time and be patient.

Marine life can easily be disturbed by splashing, but gentle fin kicks will allow you to move slowly enough to spot the more unique creatures on the reef. We rarely use our arms to swim, instead keep them by our sides. While many fish species and some invertebrates can be wary of humans, staying in one place for a few minutes will allow them to accept your presence. Most importantly, minimize contact with the reef and avoid touching corals, as they are sensitive creatures prone to diseases and breakage.

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Anthias taking shelter in the soft corals, Natewa Bay. Photo SARA CARLSON

Massive hard coral, Natewa Bay . Photo MATTHEW NORMAN

Close up detail of soft coral, Natewa Bay. Photo SARA CARLSON

Fountain of fish over hard coral formation, Natewa Bay . Photo SARA CARLSON

Coral reefs are highly complex ecosystems.

While they take up less than 0.25% of the ocean, they are home to more than a quarter of all marine fish species. Reef-inhabiting species diversity has been estimated at anywhere from 600,000 to over 9 million species worldwide. Most of this diversity is contained in the shallow waters, as sunlight provides nutrients for many species through photosynthesis.

Many corals have symbiotic algae in their tissues, called Zooxanthellae, that allow them to harness energy from the sun. These micro-algae also contribute to the coral’s coloration; one species of coral may be found in a variety of colors. Corals are related to jellyfish and anemones and they too contain stinging cells for protection; many corals are also predatory feeders and use small tentacles to stun prey, which can even include small fish.

Coral is a perfect subject for beginner underwater photographers as it is sedentary and colorful. Hard corals are made up of hundreds or thousands of tiny polyps that form stony skeletons made of calcium carbonate. These animals are reefbuilders, meaning they provide complex structures that become shelter for other marine organisms.

Known as the ‘architects of the reef’, coral colonies are found in a variety of shapes: large, boulder-like corals, vast table corals, and delicate branching corals compete for space in the light-abundant shallows. We cannot forget the soft corals, as Fiji is known as the soft coral capital of the world. Unlike hard corals, they do not form stony skeletons and usually have a tree-like appearance. While they are not considered reef-builders, these corals also provide shelter to unique marine life including tiny crustaceans and juvenile fish.

Around Savusavu there are some easily accessible sites with stunning corals that have been growing for centuries, and in some cases, millennia. One such location is Natewa Bay, the largest and deepest natural bay in the South Pacific.

The mountainous land surrounding the bay has protected the corals from cyclone damage and typically calm conditions allow for comfortable snorkeling and diving. With guidance you can visit spots that have staggering fish diversity and healthy hard corals, where gorgonian sea fans and spectacular soft corals can be found in abundance in shallow waters.

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Tabular hard corals, photo taken while snorkeling, Natewa Bay. Photo SARA CARLSON

Healthy reef seascape in only a couple of meters of water, Natewa Bay. Photo MATTHEW NORMAN

Hard corals and soft corals, Natewa Bay. Photo MATTHEW NORMAN

Offering impressive landscapes and seascapes, Natewa Bay is a photographer’s dream. Just over a half hour from Savusavu by car, it is easy to get to but feels incredibly remote, with picturesque villages lining the bay and hardly any boat traffic.

Locations like this are increasingly rare, with coral reefs disappearing at an alarming rate worldwide due to various threats such as overfishing, rising sea surface temperatures and coral bleaching, increased disease due to introduced pollutants and chemicals such as those found in sunscreens, and ocean acidification.

Photography has been an important tool in coral reef conservation. Many reef survey techniques rely on photography and videography and photos provide a permanent record that can be compared to show change over time. Sharing photos of marine life raises awareness of the incredible diversity found in the ocean and makes the underwater world more available to those who cannot travel to see it first-hand. With patience and reef awareness, you can produce images that capture the beauty of the underwater world to share with friends and family back home.

About the authors: Matthew Norman & Sara Carlson own and operate Ocean Ventures Fiji (www. oceanventuresfiji.com), a PADI Dive Resort that also focuses on conservation education and snorkeling trips in Natewa Bay, Vanua Levu, approximately 40 minutes outside of Savusavu. They can be found on Instagram: @matthewnormanphotography & @divingsara.

Several species of soft coral colonies in shallow water, Natewa Bay. Photo MATTHEW NORMAN

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HIKE

History and

ADVENTURE

By MARITA MANLEY Photos TALANOA TREKS The mist is thick and drapes the mountains in a cool embrace. The air is crisp and cool, its 5am and 22-year old Adi Bera (standing) rises in her remote village of Nabutatau in the interior of Viti Levu, Fiji’s main island, to prepare for her working day as a part-time tour guide with Fiji’s only dedicated trekking company, the award winning Talanoa Treks.

Since leaving high school, ‘Adi’ as she is known by her friends, has been helping her family with farming and selling woven mats to generate income.

Two years ago, she started guiding part-time as a Nabutautau village guide with Talanoa Treks hikes. It’s a job that would come to her naturally as the undulating terrain of the upper reaches of the Sigatoka river and its adjourning terrain are literally Adi’s backyard.

She is a member of an eight-person trained tour guide team that handles tours about two to four times a month. Tour guides are rotated from within the community as this gives the opportunities for others to also be employed. The guides, like Adi, are trained in basic First Aid, guiding and safety, and customer interaction and service.

Domestic chores were never Adi’s cup of tea and she dreamed of wild adventures and meeting people from exotic places.

“Hardly any outsiders came to our village due its remoteness – tour guiding gives me a chance to meet people from different countries,” she said.

“Being one of the eldest in my family puts a lot of pressure on me from my parents, to help look after our family’s basic needs.”

Known for her buoyant personality, Adi became part of the local tour guide team employed from the community.

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“This is easy money for me as I get paid FJD 40 (USD 20) per tour, even though it’s long nine hours walk. But I am now used to these long walks, when I get to chat with the tourists and tell them all about our village history and about our lifestyle,” she said.

Despite the long journey to reach Nabutautau, the community is regarded as exceptional hosts and welcomes trekkers with local delicacies and ‘talanoa’ story telling around the kava bowl.

Like the rest of the community, Adi’s family also relies on income either from selling farm produce or handmade woven mats in the nearest market – Ba town, about 82 km away from the village, once in week.

“Sometimes we only make around FJD 10 (USD 5) after deducting transportation costs on a not so good marketing day,” Adi said.

This was the scenario until 2005 when the Rucksack Club, consisting of locals and expatriates living in the Suva area, started coming to Nabutautau on a quest for adventure, hiking and community engagement. A few community members were chosen by the Turaga-Ni-Koro (village headman) as tour guides to assist the Rucksack Club and ignited a demand for local tour guides in the area.

The area is infamous for a gruesome incident in the mid 1800s when a missionary was killed and reportedly cannibalised by members of neighbouring villages. This reputation left a blight on the people of Nabutautau for years to follow; however their new found skills as tour guides in their mountainous terrain has changed their plight.

Tour guides now mischieviously recall the story to visitors – enhancing the tourists cultural experience on the trek.

These days, the friendliness of the villages, the local knowledge of the tour guides and the lush terrain has brought more people to the area. It

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Data SIO, NOAA, U.S. Navy, NGA, GEBCO Data LDEO-Columbia, NSF, NOAA Data SIO, NOAA, U.S. Navy, NGA, GEBCO Image Landsat / Copernicus Data LDEO-Columbia, NSF, NOAA Image Landsat / Copernicus

was in that 2011 Talanoa Treks started organising regular hikes to the village as part of their CrossHighland Hike.

Talanoa Treks is a dedicated hiking company, owned by Matt Capper and Marita Manley, expatriates themselves, who first heard of this community through the Rucksack Club. Talanoa Treks started by targeting the domestic market in Suva and they has been pleasantly surprised by the number of Fijians keen to see more of their own country’s beautiful interior. As the popularity increased for this type of niche tourism activity in Fiji, Talanoa Treks’ marketing has focussed on overseas hiking tours through making links with niche hiking travel companies, associations and clubs.

With the interest to provide a modern day authentic Fijian experience through scenic hiking trails, local food and community interaction, Talanoa Treks now works with four local communities and two lodges.

Talanoa Treks has also partnered with the Market Development Facility, the Australian flagship program for private sector development in Fiji, to improve its capacity to reach and cater for the international walking market and working with local communities to raise the standard of services offered to guests.

February’s Tropical Cyclone Winston brought significant damage to communities and hoteliers in the tourism sector in Fiji. Talanoa Treks is engaged with communities who were severely affected and who are keen to rebuild. Despite the personal challenges that each member of each community faced during Winston all communities were hosting visitors again within four weeks of the damaging cyclone.

To support the affected communities with income generation and employment creation, MDF is further supporting Talanoa Treks with infrastructural repair works and training of 30 new tour guides across four communities.

Talanoa Treks has built a good rapport with these communities and envisions more local women employed as tour guides. There are currently five female tour guides. MDF is engaging an expert to assist Talanoa Treks to train more women as tour guides. This training will enable female guides to increase their income and better contribute financially to their households and the community through their direct earnings.

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NATURE

In Search of the

TAGIMOUCIA

By BERT TOLHURST Photos FEROZ KHALIL A secret design of Taveuni’s famed Tagimoucia flower is inscribed on the inside of the engagement ring I gave my fiancée.

Fiji’s ‘garden island’ is its third largest and in the opinion of many, its most beautiful. It will always hold a special place in my affections, for it was on Taveuni that I proposed to my fiancée on our second trip to there. The Tagimoucia design on the underside of the ring’s band is a lifetime reminder of a place we came to know and love during an extraordinary three years in Fiji.

Before departing for the United Kingdom, we agreed on one final Fijian adventure: a return to Taveuni on a quest to find the elusive Tagimoucia.

A NATIONAL EMBLEM The Tagimoucia (Medinilla Waterhousei) is Fiji’s national flower. It is most commonly seen on the Fijian $50 note, where it came to replace the Queen’s image in 2013. But iconic though it is, the Tagimoucia is rarely seen in the wild. It grows at high altitude (over 600m) deep in the rainforest of the island’s interior, mostly around Lake Tagimoucia, a well-known but hard to reach water-filled crater, reputed to be bottomless. The Tagimoucia flowers only in the rainy season, from October to December, forming in clusters of striking crimson bracts, clasped around delicate white flowers, usually high in the branches of host trees.

The flower carries a mythical status in Fiji, inspiring an often told legend.

Like all good legends though, there are competing versions. My preferred account tells of a young girl, wild and disobedient. One day the girl sent her mother into a rage, refusing to do her chores. Furious, the woman beat her daughter with a sasa broom of coconut frond mid ribs and banished her from the house. The girl ran weeping deep into the forest where she encountered a large flowerless vine, wrapped around a great tree. Climbing the vine, she become entangled in it. Unable to free herself the girl wept all the more bitterly until she fell asleep. As tears rolled down her cheeks they turned to blood and where they splashed on the vine they became beautiful red and white Tagimoucia flowers. ‘Tagimoucia’ literally translated means: “to cry in your sleep”.

JOURNEY BEGINS Our journey back to Taveuni began in Suva on a grey and overcast morning when we boarded a half full 14 seater at Nausori airport for the hour’s flight into Matei on Taveuni’s north shore. We soon cleared the grey shroud hanging over the Suva peninsular and enjoyed aerial views of the intricate architecture of interlocking coral reefs below, fitting together like opalescent jigsaw pieces the colour of peacock feathers.

Aroha Beachfront Bures in Wairiki would be our accommodation for the night, a 20 minute drive from the airport along the island’s only major road that runs the length of the west coast as far as Vuna on the southern tip of the island. The five stylish bures that accommodate a maximum of 12 guests are set in beautifully kept tropical gardens, each offer unhindered views across the Somosomo Strait to Vanua Levu.

The bures represent excellent value, half the price of similar alternatives.

The addition of a new restaurant means you can now dine on site, the main attraction being the wood fired pizza oven.

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DES VOEUX PEAK The next day we set out early in search of the Tagimoucia. To see the flower in its natural setting involves a demanding hike up Des Voeux Peak. At 1195 metres it is the island’s second highest summit and the third loftiest in the entire Fiji group. It’s a 6 km journey on foot from coast to summit, at least four hours continuously uphill and two hours back down – although with a hardy 4x4 you can make most of the trip in relative comfort and preserve your knees.

The track to the summit starts in Wairiki, turning off the main road shortly before the Catholic mission. Illuminated in the soft, early evening sunlight, Holy Cross Church makes for an awe-inspiring sight. For 150 years this imposing structure with its bright red roof has perched in grandeur on a slope overlooking a broad playing field where teams of young men compete fiercely in a seemingly never-ending game of rugby: perhaps a fitting activity to mark the site where in the 1860s Taveuni warriors once repelled a force of invading Tongans, in a pivotal battle fought in canoes on the foreshore.

The track from Wairiki snakes up the hill, passing through the village of Tavuki, home of our guide and Aroha’s accomplished groundsman, Rafa. After handing over the $5 per person fee, we entered the rainforest reserve. The truck’s suspension got a good workout on the less well traveled path. Soon we entered the band of mist hanging over the peak, where the air became much cooler.

We anticipated rain. Taveuni’s highlands receive heavy falls from the tradewinds and is wetter there than anywhere else in the country.

For this reason a hydro power plant is being constructed in the highlands above Somosomo with a grant from China. It aims to provide a sustainable source of electricity for much of western Taveuni, reducing the reliance on expensive diesel-powered generators.

INTO THE JUNGLE After a bumpy 30 minute scramble we reached the end of the line for the vehicle, the next lap had to be on foot.

I’m not a natural adventurer. In fact on a

previous visit to Taveuni I got seasick on a kayak, which was as embarrassing for me as it was perplexing for our guide. He simply couldn’t believe it when I was forced to abandon ship, green at the gills, after a short paddle on the open sea.

This confusion turned to amusement when I chose, pale-faced and quivering, to drape myself over a rock, rather than venture the final 100 yards into the river mouth to see the “spectacular” waterfall we had set out for originally.

Shrugging off nagging worries about altitude sickness, we set out for Lake Tagimoucia, an hour’s hike through dense, prehistoric forest.

With no wind or rain there was an eerie stillness and near silence, interrupted only by the calls of birds and our muffled footfalls on a carpet of soft, tropical compost. Mist punctuated occasionally by shafts of sunlight, added to the strange fairytale atmosphere – an appropriate setting for a mythical flower.

Birdlife on Taveuni has flourished thanks to the absence of the mongoose. The island is home to over 100 species, several endemic to the island.

We caught a rare glimpse of the Silktail, a dainty black bird with a beautiful silver fan tail visible in flight, while the signature whoop of the barking pigeon was regularly audible. A single iridescent feather was the only evidence of the island’s parrot population.

Rafa knew the path well, navigating various natural hazards with great agility. We advanced ponderously behind, lacking grace while trying to remain upright, only managing to keep half an eye out for what we were looking for.

And we almost missed it. Scanning the forest canopy we failed to notice a sprinkling of small red petals on the path beneath our feet.

Identifying them immediately Rafa gestured upwards. And there they were, a cluster of bright crimson Tagimoucia flowers suspended high in the branches above.

They were well out of reach, defying closer examination. So we pressed on towards the lake, spotting occasional splashes of red in the sea of green. Finally Rafa found a bunch he thought he could get to. They looked unreachable but with

admirable nonchalance he shinned up the tree and cut a branch heavy with the flowers.

So early in the season the white flowers were not fully developed, but they were still magical. I was happy to confirm the design on my fiancée’s engagement ring was a faithful representation of the real thing.

By Christmas the Tagimoucia was in full bloom and the forest received more regular visitors, eager to gather natural adornments for their homes and salusalu garlands.

By now we were close to Lake Tagimoucia, which is as hard to access as its floral namesake.

It is surrounded by muddy swamp and thick vegetation, overlooked by steep and heavily forested peaks. Seemingly content in its isolation, we decided it was better left unexplored, settling for a view from a nearby lookout.

THE WAY DOWN An hour later we rejoined the main summit path, feeling triumphant and deciding walk back down. We were rewarded with spectacular views across the sparkling Strait to the islands of Kioa, Rabi and Vanua Levu.

We passed through plantations of yaqona and taro; gorged ourselves on bananas and mangoes growing by the path; and sampled peppery watercress from a mountain stream.

Breadfruit and avocado trees sagged with fruit, and everywhere there were coconuts.

Back in Tavuki a funeral was taking place.

Men were solemnly drinking yaqona beneath breadfruit trees and children called ‘tagimoucia’ before laughing and running off. We gave a small bunch from those we had collected to one delighted small girl.

A passing villager stopped to offer us a lift the last mile back to Wairiki that we gratefully accepted.

It was a worthy adventure, summarising all that captivates about this rich and beautiful country. We hold onto those memories of the mythical red and white flower that hangs by a bottomless lake, deep in a silent, ancient forest on Fiji’s garden island.

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SOLOMONS

THE UNSPOILT Beauty of Solomon Islands

By JORAH McKINLEY Photos SOLOMON ISLANDS TOURISM BUREAU The paradox of Solomon Islands is this: it’s not a typical tourist destination, and that’s what makes it the perfect tourist destination.

Instead of crowded resorts and kitschy souvenir shops, visitors experience the authentic culture, life, and unspoilt beauty that define the Solomon’s. With what some argue to be the best diving in the world, a plethora of rich Word War II history, world renowned big game fishing, and no shortage of beaches, waterfalls, surf breaks and active volcanoes to explore, it’s no wonder Solomon Islands has been named often as one of the hottest travel destinations to visit.

EVERLASTING TRADITIONS Despite the growing tourism industry, many Solomon Islanders are determined to keep their native culture and traditions alive, and to communicate just how important those traditions are to the people who come to visit.

About a half hour journey from the capital city of Honiara lies a small village named Lumatapopoha.

Those looking for an authentic cultural experience will find it here, where a local family has taken it upon themselves to educate visitors on some of the traditional practices of Solomons culture.

The men stroll barefoot through the homestead in leaf loincloths and the women wear nothing but a short, flowing grass skirt. This is a far cry from the modesty you would encounter these days in a traditional Fijian village, where women are expected to cover their legs and shoulders. After a traditional welcome ceremony, visitors are led inside and shown different cooking practices. Those feeling brave could try one of the beetle larvae that are roasted over the fire in a hollow bamboo. Right off the coals, these little fellas are hot and surprisingly full of flavor. Children demonstrate activities such as mashing nuts with nothing but bamboo, opening coconuts with a stick and a rock, and making a torch with tree sap.

The couple that runs the cultural tour, Primo Puilukesa and his wife Paula, are committed to keeping their old traditions alive by teaching their children about their culture and keeping it as part

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of themselves. Puilukesa is very proud of the fact that he has been able to uphold his identity, even with the influence of modernisation. However it can sometimes be difficult.

“We are on the doorstep of the city,” he said, and with so many changes taking place, he feels it is more important than ever to keep traditions alive. “I feel proud to stand with my identity.” These cultural traditions are very important to the family, but what you see on the tour is not their everyday life. But in the outer islands, in the very rural villages, there are still groups of people who live like this from day to day.

DAYS GONE BY: In 1942 during the Second World War, the Japanese took the island of Tulaghi, which was the capital city at that point. The capital was then moved to Honiara as the allied forces battled against the Japanese. The Japanese had also occupied the island of Guadalcanal and on 7 August 1942, United States Marines stormed the shores and fought for months to take back the island. Many view this battle as a turning point of WWII and evidence of the struggle is strewn across the Solomons.

The bunkers, caves, tunnels, tanks and planes left behind by departing armies are easy to find throughout Honiara and the surrounding islands.

About an hour’s drive west of the city centre, down a bumpy dirt road is Vilu Museum. Amidst beautiful gardens below a stunning mountain range stand dozens of relics from the war. Planes are rusted with bits rotting away, but in many you can still clearly see the seat in the cockpit, where a young man likely sat as he gave his life for his country.

Roaming the outdoor museum visitors see American B17 bombers, Japanese naval guns, the Winds of the Avenger (a US Torpedo bomber), sea planes and mountain guns. In the centre of the garden stand a series of flag poles and memorial stones for each country that lost lives here. The US memorial reads, “governments create wars but young men are called to fight in them...say a prayer in your own way for these gallant men who served so selflessly when their countries called.”

There are other sites of battlefields, army bases, old war cemeteries and memorials to visit also. The national monument of Solomon Islands pays tribute to the local islander scouts who were the Coastwatchers. On the monument these is a

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SOLOMONS quote from a United States naval admiral reading, “the Coastwatchers saved Guadalcanal, and Guadalcanal saved the Pacific.” If you’re a history buff, you won’t run out of things to see in the Solomon’s THE UNDER WATER WORLD: With a combination of breathtaking hard and soft coral reefs and eerie WWII wrecks, the diving in the Solomons is not lacking. These factors and the diverse marine life solidify the Solomons’ status as one of the best snorkeling and diving destinations in the world.

The aptly named Iron Bottom Sound plays host to excellent wreck diving. On the sea floor just off the island of Tulaghi is a sunken Japanese seaplane. As divers descend to 25-30 metres the dark outline of the aircraft emerges from the depths. The plane is rusted and covered in sea life, and one of the wings has fallen to the ocean floor, but it’s not hard to imagine it flying low over the turquoise waters nearly 75 years ago. This plane is but one of the many wrecks in the area. A two-hour ferry ride to Tulaghi takes diving enthusiasts to the water’s edge Raiders Hotel and a cold beverage with a choice plate of fish and chips on Raiders terrace, overlooking the sea. It’s a great spot to spend a few days diving the wrecks in Iron Bottom Sound.

For diving in the Guadalcanal area, Tulaghi Dive is the go-to dive shop in Honiara that runs travel to Tulaghi and day trips into Iron Bottom Sound. For reefs and diverse marine life, the Western Province is the place. There are also great opportunities for snorkeling on some of the more shallow reefs.

Dive Gizo is a good place to start in that area. There are not many other places where you have the opportunity to see sharks, turtles, whales, rays, reefs and wrecks all in one place, but it’s possible in the Solomons.

THE CAPITAL CITY: Honiara is the only actual urban environment in Solomon Islands. Many people quickly catch a connecting flight to the Western Province, but don’t be too hasty, Honiara deserves some time.

There is excellent accommodation such as Heritage Park and the Solomon Kitano Mendana Hotel. At the Heritage you might be lucky enough to get a seaside room, in which case you can step out on your balcony in the morning and see the sun rising over the ships in the harbor. Both have topnotch international cuisine and are in conveniently centrally located. It’s just a walk to the Yacht Club, the national museum, various coffee shops and the Honiara Central Market.

Don’t leave Honiara without walking through the market, where hundreds of vendors daily bring fruit, vegetables, fish, baskets, jewelry and other handcrafts. The bustling atmosphere gives a real taste of what life is like for Solomon Islanders.

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Walk through the city; visitors notice that many people look as if they’ve just finished eating a bright red popsicle. Their lips, teeth, gums, and tongues are dyed a vibrant crimson. It’s actually colour from the famous betel nut. Betel nut, also known as areca nut, is the seed from the fruit from the areca palm tree. It’s commonly rolled into a betel leaf and combined with slaked lime powder. When these elements come together, eating it can produce a mild feeling of euphoria and alertness, and with prolonged use it produces the red color you see in many mouths. Betel nuts are a large part of cultural practices in the Solomons. They’re eaten when welcoming new guests, entertaining friends, and generally on any special occasion. Many Solomon Islanders don’t need an occasion to indulge, as can be seen by their telltale red smiles. Honiara is also a great home base for many different day trips, diving, historical sites, and more.

Solomon Islands is rural and developing and has only around 25,000 visitors annually, compared to Fiji, which gets more than half a million. It’s not loaded with resorts, but that leaves a lot of room for beauty, culture, and adventure. It’s possibly one the most authentic and unique South Pacific experiences available.

Fiji Airways flies to Honiara from Nadi on Tuesdays and Thursdays.

VISiT

Travelling in style and comfort

Explore Vanuatu’s treasures below the sea on page 82. Photo TOM VIERUS

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TEXAS

Texas by the

BUCKETFUL

By BECCA HENSLEY Bigger in Texas. That’s a whale of a legend. But sometimes lore has legs—and don’t doubt that elephantine is a size Texans embrace with gusto. As the Lone Star State’s most populace city, strapping Houston leads the monster-sized mythos with its walloping zest for life. Once the domain of ten-gallon hats and plate-sized belt buckles, the Space City now has an edgier vibe. These days you’re as likely to glimpse Gucci driving loafers, Lilliputian pocket squares, and fedoras, as cow dude and dudette regalia. Groundbreaking chefs, inventive artists, hipster farmers, and citizens with a yen for local and ecology stir life into the mix. Want to experience the enormous in H-Town? Here’s your husky hit list.

Lone Star Beervana: The Beer Can House The beer cans have been long emptied at this architectural marvel, one of Houston’s favorite venues and tourist sites—and a muse to found artists and recyclers everywhere. A project that grew organically and took two decades to complete, this ode to creative inspiration (and adult beverages) was crafted by retired Houston upholsterer John Milkovisch, who transformed his home by sheathing it with flattened beer cans.

With a lawn composed of concrete inlaid with bits of rock, metal and marble, the structure has shredded cans dangling from the eaves, which tinkle in the wind—and reduced the family’s energy bills. Ripley’s Believe It or Not estimates more than 50,000 beer cans contributed to the oeuvre—with no preference to brand.

Biggest One-Stop Shopping: Kuhl Linscomb You’ll need a map to navigate Kuhl-Linscomb, Houston’s largest, privately owned lifestyle and design haven. With 70,000-square feet of display space, it occupies every inch of five separate buildings, three of them retrofitted, old houses full of soul. Italian antiques, fine china, linens, pet supplies, stationery, music skincare items, and picnic benches fill the artfully edited shelves, which glean bounty as tempting Texas roaming Jean Lafitte’s pirate treasure. Expect to leave with items you weren’t planning to purchase. Afterwards, drown those lightened purse sorrows with a customized cocktail at Anvil Bar & Refuge, located in trendy

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Montrose, just minutes eastward.

BIGGEST GREEN LUNG: BUFFALO BAYOU Like a bolt of emerald silk unraveling amid the urban jungle, Buffalo Bayou, a 160-acre expanse, unfurls for 2.3 miles just outside downtown Houston. Such grand parkland may take you by surprise in a city best known for its traffic jams.

But, the already garden-like playground, marked with wetland, got yet better with a recent,58million-dollar expansion. Hike and bike trails, a dog park, statuary and other art, lush perennial commons, and venues for concerts and events constitute part of the fun. Cool kid residential and commercial developments flank this innercity retreat, which will have 14,000 new native trees and 11 acres of wildflowers and prairie.

Canoe, kayak and pontoon boat rides reveal congregations of egrets, clouds of bats and bales of turtles that belie metropolitan locale and soaring adjacent skyline. Buffalobayou.org BIGGEST HEART: OKRA CHARITY SALOON The immense pocketbooks in H-town stay perpetually ajar. According to data compiled

by Charity Navigator, Houston reigns as the second most philanthropic city in the country, with the top 83 charities in the city collecting a median of $4.3 million in 2013, for example.

So, it only makes sense that a joint like OKRA Charity Saloon, founded and run by a coterie of conscientious restaurateurs and bar owners, has become a popular spot to imbibe with good will. Every drink tippled counts in this hip haven, tucked into the historic intersection of Congress and Main Streets, where 100 percent of the proceeds are donated to a different, local nonprofit organization or social cause each month.

Friedokra.org BIGGEST PIONEER SPIRIT: Tenacious pioneers built Houston. Their legacy abounds in a penchant to go against the grain.

Consider the city’s refusal to regulate zoning, and the resulting mish-mash eclecticism of even the burg’s best neighborhoods. That thread of innovation and can do spirit fuels entrepreneurs and artists, too. Chloe Dao, of Bravo Project Runway fame, embodies it. Her shop in Rice Village draws fashionistas, who may glimpse Dao hemming and snipping on site, despite her celebrity status. In The Heights uber cool Revival Market, a repository of local food founded by chef Ryan Pera and hipster farmer Morgan Weber, keeps field-to-fork small and real. In a convenience store-sized space, they sell Weber’s heritage breed, all-natural meats (pork, lamb and chicken) and devise daily menus, such as house-made spam with eggs or Texas cheesefilled kolaches. The creative alimentary boutique also vaunts crackerjack fishmonger P. J Stoops, who specializes in bycatch (what other’s throw back from the nets to the ocean) and whose proselyting on the merits of fin to flipper to fish

jowl has changed the way Houston eats and cooks its plethora of seafood. chloedao.com, Revivalmarket.com LONE STAR MUSEUM STATE: HOUSTON’S MUSEUM DISTRICT Dense, walkable, and encasing mummies, the largest emerald crystal found in North America, paintings, textiles, costumes and a Wizard of Oz-like city teeming with kids, the Houston Museum District fits 19 mind-boggling institutions into an assorted, 1.5 mile expanse southwest of downtown. From the Robert Venturi-designed, bilingual Children’s Museum to the ponderous Holocaust Museum to the graceful Asia Society, the organizations vary. But the Menil Collection, a storied assemblage, which occupies myriad tree-lined blocks in Montrose, may stand out as the most unique amongst them. Plan enough time here to discover the abstract Mark Rothko Chapel—a symphony in black, the graffiti-evoking Cy Twombley Gallery and the spellbinding RenzoPiano main house, which features a lovingly curated private collection with masterpieces that range from Byzantine icons to Jackson Pollack canvasses. Perhaps the best part? Admission is free. Menil.org CREATIVE CAR CALVACADE Wheels up. Prepare to drop your jaw at the annual Houston Art Car Parade, the first and still most colossal event of its kind on the planet. More than 250 motor vehicles adapted to resemble dragons, shoes, bananas, monsters, Barbie Dolls and beyond turn the streets to center stage annually. Watch them this year on April 11-14 when they hit the road to celebrate more than 25 years of decorative and whimsical Houston glory. The adorned cars whiz through the burg, parade style, accompanied by skaters, bike riders, low riders and skateboarders much to the delight of denizens. Four days of folly ensue, including a wacky art ball, masquerade style. Houstonartcarparade.com BIGGEST CHEERLEADER You might know him for his recent James Beard Award. But, Chef Chris Shepherd never has rested on his laurels. First of Underbelly fame, he now helms his new American, culinary adventure One Fifth Houston, a changing motif restaurant, which will do five concepts in five years in one historic building. An advocate for all things local, Shepherd not only supports the Houston-based, mom-and-pop ethnic diners which influence his innovative creole cuisine, he sings their glories. Dine with him, and when you leave, he’ll likely give you a belly full about where to go next.You may even receive a pamphlet that lists a bevy of the culturally diverse cafes (from Mexican to Korean), ground breaking purveyors and foodcentric personalities Shepherd cherishes for the culinary role they play in Houston. At One Fifth Texas’ twang comes

through with carnivore favorites, as well as locally foraged products from the farm crowd. onefifthhouston.com BIGGEST ETHNIC MELANGE Karaoke trumps tumbleweeds in Houston’s vibrant Chinatown—and the surrounding neighborhoods, which comprise the secondlargest Indochinese population in the United States. East of Downtown, this immense international community sprawls through the metropolis’ southwest side, and includes the Mahatma Gandhi hood, a richly Indian district.

In the vicinity, find authentic restaurants such as Fu Fu, Banana Leaf and Mamak, as well as Dun Huang Plaza, a gargantuan condominium complex offering a tea bar, travel agency, wedding photo shop and Chinese medicine office.

Shop at Hong Kong City Market for everything you always wanted, from cell phones to slippers.

Dunhuangplaza.com BIGGEST TEXAS ISLAND It’s not Hawaii, but historic Galveston Island, part of the Houston metro-complex, garnered the nickname “Playground of the South” in Victorian times. With palm-lined beaches, Mansard-roofed mansions, and “The Strand,” a buzzing, nostalgic-intoned shopping district, this back-to-booming barrier islet sits just 45 minutes from downtown Houston. With Pleasure Pier, a boardwalk-style theme park teeming with rides and kid appetite-whetting amusements, Flower Garden Banks National Marine Sanctuary-America’s northernmost coral reef system--, and estuaries and salt marshes sure to bring birders binocular’s to ogle mode, Galveston attracts beachcombers, artists, fishermen and families.

Galveston.com Fiji Airways flies direct to Los Angeles from Nadi daily and connects to Houston via code share partner American Airlines.

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NEW ORLEANS

17 Things to Do in

NEW ORLEANS

By BECCA HENSLEY The Big Easy. There’s no place anywhere quite like it. A bricolage of some of the world’s most titillating cultures—African, Spanish, French, Italian and Native American—the city embraces a dose of Old South, and a portion of provocative folklore, from pirates to voodoo to vampires. A zesty burg on the Mississippi River, it has informed the genres of jazz and blues, inspired legions of literature, and safely guarded its unique traditions in the metaphorical treasure chests of generations of local families. The Big Easy claims responsibility for the Sazerac (and a few other stellar libations), and serves up regional taste treats from jambalaya to po’boys to grilled oysters to muffulettas. Visit for three days, and you’ll leave wanting to linger. Stay for more of that, and you may find yourself a tad too satiated. Here’s a list of what’s new, sprinkled with a hefty serving of must-do icons, too.

COURTYARD CODDLING: Like mise en scène from a Tennessee Williams play, Soniat House presents sweet, long-treasured Southern hospitality. Mollycoddling, composed from three, landmarked, French Colonial homes from the 1700’s, a short walk from Bourbon Street’s bawdy buzz and the French Market’s lure of chicory coffee and beignet’s, this Small Luxury Hotel of the World hideaway delivers hot, fluffy homemade biscuits (and marmalade) to your room in the morning, via tuxedo-coated gentlemen, who pour your hot beverage from a silver pot. Modern amenities, antique furnishings, a secret-garden-like courtyard, and a house cat provide a tranquil corner amid the French Quarter’s high-octane antics. soniathouse.com slh.com GLAM GOBBLES Long the place for locals to lunch on Fridays (they have a monthly tab), referred to in any number of literary works (In Streetcar Named Desire, Stella invites Blanche to lunch here) eccentric Galatoires reigns, as a top must do gourmet adventure. The stuff of legends, a jewel box that evokes the past, a gilded, mirrored refuge from the rest of shabby Bourbon, Galatoires considers shorts a shocking transgression, expects men to wear jackets at dinner, and will send you home and back into your closet if you wear the wrong shoes. Lunches here can last all day. And, nobody, not even Scarlet O’Hara, gets in without standing in line. galatoires. com

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NEIGHBORHOOD BISTRO: SALU To your health! You’ll feel the meaning of this restaurant’s name (from the Latin verb salutaris) in its welcoming atmosphere. On Magazine Street, amid the eclectic Irish Channel hood, this bar-style eatery, with a menu intoned by Mediterranean flavors, draws from New Orleans’ melange of heritages, with dishes by Dustin Brien. House-infused vodka means extraordinary cocktails to match a huge variety of mussels and flatbread pizzas—all half-priced during happy hour. saluerestaurant.com MILK PUNCH MECCA: BRENNAns Better than ever, beauteous Brennan’s Restaurant makes the nostalgia of mannerly days deliciously relevant. Swish and glittering with chandeliers and other Creole decor, the landmark breakfast you’ll eat here promises that getting up early after a night on the town is worth it. They’ll bring you a famous Milk Punch or the best Bloody Mary you’ve ever imbibed to start—then you can slurp some turtle soup and nibble some egg yolk carpaccio to fuel the fire. brennansneworleans.com ALLURING ALCHEMY: SOBOU Attached to the chic W, South of Bourbon, on a street not everybody traipses down, this creation from the Commander’s Family of Restaurants fizzes with funk. Embracing NO-LA’s trendier side, the restaurant wins accolades for such sinful dishes as sweet potato beignets filled with foie gras, but it’s in the bar—where congenial Bar Chef Laura Bel-lucci lords over the spirits like the ultimate discerning Voodoo Queen— where magic happens. Tipple her prize-winning The Parakeet Nordeen, a wicked concoction of gin, chartreuse, and Giffard pamplemousse. soubounola.com GARDEN OF EDEN: SHAYA If you haven’t heard already, you might be surprised. What in the world does Israeli food have to do with laissez le bon temps rouler?

Well—absolutely everything. Touted as the best new restaurant to open in the Crescent City this decade, this superlative hot spot will blow your mind. With small plates by dashing, James Beard winning wunderkind Alon Shaya, the cobalt blue interiors invoke a bit of Tel Aviv on Magazine.

Come hungry for the best hummus you’ve ever had (I swoon over the curried fried caulflower variety); but save room for plates such as slow cooked lamb with whipped feta, tomatoey shakshuka, and Persian rice. shayarestaurant. com BUGGY BEDFELLOWS: INSECTARIUM AND BUTTERFLY GARDEN Have you ever wandered through a termite gallery? Creepy crawlers will tickle your fancy at this ultimate insect museum in the old New Orleans Custom House on Canal Street. The

largest museum in the world devoted to bugs (and their kind), this science center provides insight for every member of the family. So, put down your Sazerac long enough to watch the butterflies flutter and the roaches race—if just for a spell. www.auduboninstitute.org OBVIOUSLY OYSTERS: ACME OYSTERS There will be a line. But, just stand in it. Sooner or later, you’ll find yourself at the bar, with a shucker seducing you to oyster ecstasy. He’ll plop them artistically around the plate, back in the shell, then wait as you suck in the briny, juicy, plump goodness. With their own oyster beds, this institution dates back to 1910. Don’t like them raw? Go for the grilled oysters, capped with cheese. Yes. They are as good as they sound.

WORSHIP AT THE ALTAR: CAFE DU MONDE Packed day and night, teeming with history, this al fresco cafe in the French Market serves hot, powdered-sugar-crowned beignets and milky mugs of chicory coffee 24/7. Bring cash, and don’t plan to linger—as there’s always somebody waiting for your table. Come on Fat Tuesday early in the morning to watch local families dressed in their Mardi Gras whimsy. (no website) CIRQUE DE NOLA: CAROUSEL BAR Arguably the Vieux Carré’s most de rigueur bar stop, this treasure within historic Monteleone Hotel holds just 25, highly coveted seats.

A brilliantly hued merry-go-round that spins slowly as you imbibe, the Carousel serves as metaphor for the city’s impetuous heart. Swill a Sazerac cocktail here—and watch the world go by.hotelmonteleone.com REGAL TIPPLE: NAPOLEON HOUSE Named more than 200-years-ago after the Emperor Napoleon in the hopes that he might one day visit (he didn’t), this crusty, slightly worn, totally authentic French Quarter-sited bar has stories to tell. Intuit them from the walls as you knock back its signature cocktail, The Pimm’s Cup, a refreshing gin and lemonade beverage sure to make the heat (seem) to disappear. http:// www.napoleonhouse.com/pimms-cup/ BREAK-THE-FAST: WILLA JEAN John Besh strikes again—this time with a vintage-style, Edison-bulb bedecked, casual homage to Southern kitchens that draws mobs for brunch. Rich and local, hearty and celebratory, this more-than-a-bakery serves indulgences such as blue crab covered biscuits, grits and eggs, brisket hash and slabs of succulent cornbread-served with syrup. Thirsty?

You have to have the f’rose y’all, a frozen rose libation sure to fuel your fire.willajean.com

eat Creole and Cajun everyday. His taco bar on Magazine Street serves up Mexican cuisine with an interior flair meant to give your taste-buds a diversion. Laid-back and saloon-like, the cafe offers everything from burri-tos to beef tongue tacos to Yucatan-style seafood delights. Tequila and mezcal flights go without saying. Ole. https:// www.facebook.com/AranaNola ARTFUL DIVERSION: SCULPTURE GARDEN AND MUSEUM OF FINE ART For a change of pace, take the streetcar to City Park, one of the nation’s oldest urban parks.

Here, lovers gathered for Victorian era picnics and white-coated, Antebellum gentlemen dueled beneath the magnolia and moss draped oak trees. Today, the five-acre park triumphs with the Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden, a collection of 60 works of art, created by some of the world’s most evocative artists. noma.org/sculpture-garden/ VERITABLY VOODOO On elegant Rue Royal, where you can also shop for jaw dropping antiques (from canes to chandeliers to garnet jewelry), Erzulies beckons.

Helmed by authentic voodoo practitioners, filled to bursting with spells and ritual kits, fetish dolls, soaps and spiritual perfume oils, the boutique proffers psychic readings and spiritual services.

Need some advice? Ask for Ann. erzulies.com THE ULTIMATE DAGWOOD: CENTRAL GROCERY Just across from the French Market, the longestablished Central Grocery may have invented the muffuletta, a towering sandwich, layered with Italian-style cold cuts and cheese, and then dolloped with the most piquant olive salad you’ve tasted—ever. A Crescent City tradition, this huge dagwood is immense enough to be shared and perfect for soaking up the far too many cocktails you’re likely to gulp. centralgroceryneworleans.com DETOX DALLIANCE: RITZ CARLTON SPA A Beaux Art bank building on the edge of the French Quarter envelops the impossibly opulent Ritz-Carlton New Orleans. In an oasis of gurgling fountains and glittering chandeliers, the superior Ritz-Carlton Spa New Orleans, with 22 treatment rooms, beckons. Its Big Easy themed treatments keep you in a NOLA mood—try the Marie Laveau Voodoo Love Bath or a candlelit Voodoo Massage, where oils scented with absinthe, bourbon, moss, cypress, and vetiver will transport and renew. ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/new-orleans/ Fiji Airways flies direct to Los Angeles from Nadi daily and connects to New Orleans via code share partner American Airlines.

TEQUILA AND TACOS: ARAÑA Chef Richard Papier knows that you can’t

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ENGLAND

The Old

SMOKE

By IMERE NADRUDRU Photos VINCENT LONG It is one of the biggest, most interesting and most visited cities in the world. With the HSBC Sevens heading to London in a few months, now is the ideal time to rediscover London in all its glory. As British fashion designer, Vivienne Westwood once said, ‘there’s nowhere else like London. Nothing at all, anywhere’. Full of hustle and bustle, style and energy, there’s never a dull moment in England’s capital and it’s the final stop in the world series.

WHERE TO STAY The streets of London are packed with hotels and apartments, so you shouldn’t be short of a place to stay and no matter where you settle, everything is accessible due to the ubiquitous transport links.

Accommodation ranges from the glamorous West End hotels to Bed and Breakfast boutique hotels in the up and coming areas of Shoreditch and Islington. Despite being one of the world’s most expensive cities there is still a style and price range to suit most travellers. If you are on more of a budget then you might want to stay just outside of the city centre, in a rented house or a cheaper hotel in zones 2-5 of London’s tube map, areas less extortionate and equally as cultural. For a lavish city break, areas such as Knightsbridge, home to the exclusive department store Harrods, and then Mayfair, Soho and Chelsea, are upmarket and put you at the heart of London’s culinary and retail delights.

THINGS TO DO It’s impossible to have a boring day in London and you’ll probably find yourself running out of time as there are endless things to do. In terms of tourist attractions, the city is home to several huge museums, ideal for a fix of culture. From one of the world’s oldest museums, the British Museum, to the Victoria & Albert Museum that houses exceptional collections of decorative art, there is something to suit all interests. The Natural History Museum, Science Museum, Imperial War Museum and National Portrait Gallery are other interesting places worth visiting in the city.

Try to get your hands on theatre tickets for a West End show, there is always a must-see comedy,

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drama or musical production on at the Old Vic or along the streets of Covent Garden.

There are of course sight-seeing tours such as Open Top buses, boats along the Thames and a ride around on the London Eye. However if queuing for the famous ferris wheel, London Dungeons or Madame Tussauds waxworks does not appeal, you might want to explore the gems of the city for yourself. Take a walk along the Southbank and stop for a drink at a waterside bar near the National Theatre or explore the kiosks and street art of Camden Market. Be surprised by the beauty of London’s greenery by strolling through Battersea Park and Hyde Park or renting bikes and cycling the expanse of Richmond Park, home to stunning wild deer. Come rain or shine there is never a dull day in London.

SEE You’re going to need your camera for this capital. London is an architectural paradise and landmarks include the Tower of London, the Tower Bridge, Westminster Abbey, The Houses of Parliament, Harrods and of course the Queen’s abode, Buckingham Palace. London’s modern architecture is also something to keep an eye out for, and buildings nicknamed ‘The Gherkin’ and ‘The Walkie- Talkie’, as well as The Shard, the third tallest building in Europe, are amongst those not to miss. Don’t overlook quirky art deco buildings such as The Barbican and Oxo Tower or also the sheer beauty of London’s railway stations including King’s Cross, home to Harry Potter’s platform 9 ¾.

WHERE TO EAT London is arguably the food capital of the world. As a city of diversity, there are plenty of

unusual restaurants from every culture, one being ‘Circus’, a glamourous dining experience accompanied by cabaret and circus acts. The city has everything you can imagine, from underground tapas and cocktail bars to Asian fusion served at the top of The Shard. If you have your finest jewellery with you, why not treat yourself to a traditional British afternoon tea at one of London’s top hotel venues, The Ritz or Claridges? If cafes and coffee shops are more your thing, take a trip to one of London’s Hummingbird Bakeries or find a unique spot for lunch in Soho, or Neal’s Yard in Covent Garden or one of the many delicious restaurants on London’s Brick Lane. If you haven’t got time for a sit down dinner then you’d be foolish not to.

GETTING AROUND Using an Oyster travel smartcard is the easiest way to travel around London. The electronic smartcards come fully charged with credit which can then be spent on the underground tube, London buses, the overground tram and most National Rail services in London. It’s by far the cheapest and easiest way to travel all across the city. Nevertheless, it’s always an experience to ride in one of London’s iconic black cabs or even to take a rickshaw around the busy streets of the city. For the more active, Santander cycles are available for hire from as little as £2 and allow you to explore the back streets and park pathways yourself.

Fiji Airways flies to Hong Kong 5 times weekly from Fiji, and interlines to London with Cathay Pacific, British Airways and Virgin Atlantic.

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EUROPE

25Hours

HOTELS

By ANDRIA MITSAKOS PARIS “I love Paris...” as the song goes, and sounds a true note for the CEO of the 25hours Hotel Company, Christoph Hoffman.

“I love Paris, so the opening of our hotel near the Gare du Nord is a real dream come true.”

25hours Hotel Terminus Nord is located directly opposite the Gare du Nord train station in Paris’s 10th arrondissement, a neighborhood highly attractive as a hotel location and popular with guests from all over the world, including business executives. The hotel welcomed its first guests at the start of this year. It marks the beginning of a new chapter in the relatively young history of the 25hours Hotel Company and is the first time it has opened a hotel in a non-German ¬speaking country. This thirteenth hotel extends the brand beyond locations in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Hotels in Florence and Dubai will follow next year.

Architect Axel Schoenert and his team took great care to retain the traditional charm of the historical building for 25hours Hotel Terminus Nord so that it fits in well with the style of the vibrant Parisian neighborhood.

Alex Toledano, co-founder of the Parisian art consultancy agency Visto Images that curates art collections for hotels, companies and private residences wrote a dissertation on the people and history of the 10th arrondissement. So with his team of artists, historians and storytellers he was able to create an artistic concept that included impressive wall art and a large-format ‘Neighborhood Heroes’ portrait series. This series immortalises people who characterise the district - from hairdressers to mechanics, train station announcers to musicians and artists.

Their life stories are told in an illustrated book that lies open on the beds in the hotel rooms, inviting guests to browse through its pages.

Gare du Nord, the busiest train station in Europe. Local references and inspiration from Africa, Asia and the East are reflected in many details, materials and accessories in the new hotel.

At the heart of the 25hours Hotel Terminus Nord is Neni, where guests gather over IsraeliMediterranean dishes for lunch or dinner.

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Upholstered benches and chairs weave an easy and entirely new interpretation of the legendary French savoir-vivre, while the large community table is the ideal spot to meet new friends. A stylish accompaniment is the Sape Bar with a large counter made of bronze-colored mosaic glass as a central focal element, while the Speakeasy Bar is a hidden snug where up to 10 guests can enjoy sophisticated drinks in a private setting.

While convivial, business offerings are not neglected, with two multifunctional rooms available for small events or meetings.

The 237 rooms on six floors have an eclectic mix of African and Asian influenced design elements by the creative design team at Dreimeta in Augsburg. The interiors include carpets with Asian-inspired patterns, African fabrics and strong wall colours giving a vibrant but cozy atmosphere. Brass colored metal filigree lamps bathe the rooms in a warm light. Instead of wardrobes, mobile stands are provided for guests to hang and store clothes, inspired by the classic hotel trolleys on which garment bags were transported to the catwalks in Paris – the Paris everyone falls in love with.

Other notable 25Hours hotels include Bikini Berlin and Langstrasse Zurich if you are heading that way.

BIKINI / BERLIN Between the Green Zoo and the urban jungle, designer Werner Aisslinger and his team have created 25hours Hotel Bikini Berlin. Half of the rooms look out over the ape and elephant enclosure in Berlin Zoo, while the other half enjoy a stunning view of one of Berlin‘s most history-laden landmarks, the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church. On the tenth floor, apart from offering a phenomenal panoramic view, NENI Berlin and the Monkey Bar serve an eclectic mix of world cuisine in collaboration with trendsetting Austrian restaurateur Haya Molcho. Built in the 1950s by the architects Paul Schwebes and Hans Schoszberger, the Bikini House was the architectural expression of a new attitude to life, hallmarked by dynamism, freedom, and optimism. This architecture – coupled with the building’s unique location – also gives Bikini Berlin its identity for the future. The hotel fully engages with its location to tailor an authentic experience for its guests. The various lovingly designed spaces provide a retreat from the urban jungle and offer individuality, exibility, and aesthetic appeal. This destination is firmly on every design- lover’s radar.

LANGSTRASSE/ZURICH The 25hours hotel Langstrasse is in Zurich’s shiny new Europaallee quarter, an urban construction project led by Swiss Federal Railways. In the heart of the city, this quarter is seeing new accommodation, homes, and office space pop up alongside the central railway station. Being part of the energy that attracted it, the hotel will be a fusion of industrial character, colorful playfulness, and the authenticity Zurich is known for. The hotel’s design and story was developed by Berlin-based Studio Aisslinger, who were inspired by the contrast between what is both the liveliest area of Zurich and an ultra-modern, newly-built district. All of the rooms are themed around precious metals, alluding to Zurich’s reputation as an international banking metropolis. However, this does not detract from the comfort and playfulness incorporated into each room. For instance, if you want, you can even spend the night in a bunk bed. This clash of Zurich’s different cultures lends the hotel a universality, where broad-shouldered bouncers, creatives, academics, and ambitious bankers all feel at home.

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INDIA

India in Pictures

GOA

With coastlines stretching along the Arabian Sea in the western part of India, Goa is a beauty to behold. Its long history as a Portuguese colony prior to 1961 is evident in its preserved 17th-century churches and the area’s tropical spice plantations.

Goa is also known for its beaches, ranging from popular stretches at Baga and Palolem to those in laid-back fishing villages such as Agonda.

Photographer Allan Stephen travelled to the Indian beach destination to soak up the sand, sea, sun and some good Goan delicacies.

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SINGAPORE

Mixing business with adventure in

SINGAPORE

By BEN MACK The frog legs didn’t really look like frog legs, at least not what one usually imagines them to look like. I wasn’t sure what they looked like, really.

Maybe extra-skinny fried chicken legs?

But one thing was more certain: they were absolutely delicious. Oh, and perfectly safe to eat, too, since every stall – like the one selling the frog legs at the large food court, or “hawker centre” as it’s known locally, under a bridge by the side of the road – has to display in large letters at the front its food safety rating from government inspectors. The stall I was at had an “A.” Such street food – and countless other items such as crispy chicken, chewy beef, seafood like octopus and squid, and still other items that defy description – helps make Singapore a far more “adventurous” destination for business travellers than one might initially assume.

But interesting cuisine at very affordable prices is just the tip of the (bejewelled – Singapore boasts seemingly as many gleaming high-rises as Dubai or New York) iceberg. In fact, the city might just be the best place there is to mix urban adventures with business; after all, where else can you travel to a meeting by cable car, then swim with dolphins during your lunch break?

The nexus for many of these adventures is Sentosa Island. There are many ways to quickly reach what’s been branded the southernmost point in continental Asia. It is one reason why Singapore is such a fantastic destination for business travellers: a second-to-none transportation system.

But why opt for a simple drive when you can soar dozens of metres above emerald green tropical trees and the translucent waters of the Pacific dangling by a rope? That’s what you can do on the Singapore Cable Car and the views are quite literally breathtaking. (Maybe it’s not the best idea if you’re scared of heights.)

If heights are your thing, however, a must-visit on Sentosa is Universal Studios Singapore. Chockfull of the oodles of gravity-defying rollercoasters you’d expect at a major theme park, it’s a popular draw for visitors from throughout Southeast Asia and even Australia and New Zealand.

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Photo BRUCE SOUTHWICK

Photo BRUCE SOUTHWICK

Photo BRUCE SOUTHWICK

Photo BEN MACK

A bit more relaxing is a stroll along the countless tree-lined walkways. Likewise, a dip in the warm water, or simply lazing on top the soft golden sand of one of the many beaches, makes a day of negotiations and networking feel like a distant memory.

But Sentosa is far from the only siren calling to visitors to cast their stresses aside. Fans of James Cameron’s Avatar will feel right at home in Gardens by the Bay. A massive, 100+ hectare nature park next to the downtown area and the famed Marina Bay Sands (which has a canal inside a shopping mall you can actually ride down on a gondola like in Venice), a walk through here really does feel like visiting some far-off sci-fi world. Reportedly, it inspired the design of some of the planets seen in the Guardians of the Galaxy films.

Be sure to check out the towering “vertical gardens” that look like trees, the structures that most resemble something that might be built by an alien civilisation, and the largest glass greenhouse in the world. Seemingly endlessly filled with dazzling green lushness, the great thing about Gardens by the Bay is it makes a worthwhile visit no matter how much time you have. It’s also a strangely romantic place to take shelter amidst the frequent midday tropical rainstorms, which have the added boon of freshening the air naturally.

For adventures of a more cultural variety, there are two places that can’t be missed: Chinatown and Little India. These ethnic neighbourhoods are not only stuffed to the gills with traditional architecture from the countries they take their names from, but you’ll also find a profusion of authentic food from there, too. The rich aromas of pungent spices swirling in the air, tangy tastes of various meats and vegetables, the sounds of people speaking a variety of South and East Asian languages, bright signs and various souvenirs for sale – think of it like a quick visit to China or India, but without having to board a flight.

Maybe you’re just looking for someplace interesting to eat between meetings. If that’s the case, then a trip to one of the previously-mentioned hawker centres is not to be passed up. Name the food – especially Asian or Asian fusion – and it can be found in one of the sprawling complexes that seem to be more common than actual weeds in neat Singapore. Even better, with many dishes at the hawker centres going for less than five Singapore dollars, equivalent to about eight Fijian dollars a plate and usually includimng rice and/or noodles along with an entrée, you won’t have to worry about breaking the bank or your company’s expenses budget.

Part of the magic of Singapore is no matter where you turn, there’s something interesting to see, smell, taste, hear and do. And even better: since it straddles the Equator, it’s pleasantly warm year-round. Who says a business trip has to be all about, well, business?

Fiji Airways flies direct to Singapore from Nadi on Mondays and Saturdays, and with stopovers in Brisbane or Hong Kong on Sundays, Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.

Photo BRUCE SOUTHWICK

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AUCKLAND

Acquiescing to adventure in

AUCKLAND

By BEN MACK New Zealand is famous worldwide, of course, for being a paradise for lovers of the great outdoors.

Yet there’s also an insidious stereotype: that such breathtaking natural beauty takes time to get to – too much time for business travellers with only a little while between meetings.

Spoiler: that stereotype is about as artificial as the Sky Tower (the tallest freestanding structure in the Southern Hemisphere) itself. That means there’s no reason a business trip to Auckland can’t be action-packed with the kinds of adventures you won’t find anywhere else – and without having to miss negotiations or networking sessions.

Pick a direction, and you’ll find an adventure in and around Auckland. Want to relax? Head to one of the many beaches (Sentinel Beach in Herne Bay where the likes of New Zealand-born singer Lorde have houses is especially recommended) or cafes for a warm cuppa of invigorating flat white coffee (Kokako in the bohemian Grey Lynn neighbourhood is great for that). Craving the outdoors? Go west to Muriwai and Piha along the mighty Pacific Ocean – the hiking can’t be beat.

If you’re looking to experience the great indoors, Auckland has no shortage of attractions, either. A fascinating place to visit is the Auckland Art Gallery Toi o Tāmaki. Along with an extensive collection of art from South Pacific and international artists, it is here you can see some of the famous portraits of indigenous Māori people by Gottfried Lindauer.

Gazing at them it becomes easy to see why Lindauer’s portraits are considered some of the most famous pieces of art in Aotearoa (the Māori name for New Zealand).

Another place to duck into is also a place to tuck in. Elliot Stables may not be the most famous of Auckland’s attractions, but this assemblage of eateries has an Old World charm that’s quite surprising for a nation that’s one of the most recent to be inhabited by humans. Essentially a high-end food court, the great thing about this place – aside from its surroundings, which include stone floors and walls, beautiful chandeliers, and a cosiness not exactly expected in a large interior space – is its sheer variety. Craving French crepes with several different types of cheese and walnuts inside?

Photo FEROZ KHALIL

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Photo FEROZ KHALIL

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Photo FEROZ KHALIL

Photo BEN MACK

Reslau is your place. New Orleans-style gumbo with corn bread? Pop into Bonz Cajun Kitchen. Chinese fusion? Bao Baby Bao is a good bet. And on. And on.

But maybe you’d prefer to get some fresh air – or at least escape the big city for a few hours. If that’s your wish, then it can be granted with a ferry ride to Waiheke Island. A trip from the waterfront in Auckland’s city centre takes about 40 minutes or so, but you could be forgiven for thinking you’d been sailing for days. The picturesque island really feels like a world away, to a world where rolling green hills offset by crystal waters is de rigueur, and good food and warm smiles are more common than the chirping birds that provide a soothing soundtrack. You can’t go wrong with whatever pretty café or restaurant you choose, but one of the real attractions of Waiheke is its wineries. There are dozens to choose from and you’ll quickly realise why Waiheke is sometimes referred to as the “Isle of Wine.”

If Waiheke is a bit far to wander to, then a walk along Auckland’s waterfront can be equally de-stressing. The restaurants along the North Wharf area of Wynyard Quarter not only have great variety, but they’re not too expensive, either – and, of course, offer stunning views of the harbour. That makes sense: this is where much of the action for the famed America’s Cup boat race will take place in two years’ time. Recommendation: walk across the Wynyard Crossing pedestrian bridge and pop into Mexicali Fresh on Princes Wharf. It may be a “fast casual” restaurant with locations throughout New Zealand, but they do some of the best Mexican food in town. The gooey, cheese-stuffed quesadillas with various chewy meats and tangy salsa are especially scrumptious.

Depending on what time you prefer to wake up in the morning, a unique Auckland experience happens right at the crack of dawn. Along Karangahape Road, known as K Road by the locals, in a cosy little venue called the Whammy Bar nestled inside the retro-style St Kevins Arcade, you can go to a rave before your first meeting.

No, really.

Featuring local and touring DJs, “Morning People” (as the event is known) occurs every Wednesday morning beginning at 6:30 a.m. At that hour, no-one really cares what you’re wearing – you’ll see everything from pyjamas to workout clothes to even some people in full business suits and ties. It’s a wholesome environment, too: instead of alcohol, there’s free coffee, fresh fruit and juice with admission. Oh, and the mostly house, techno and trance music is some of the best electronic music you’ll hear in the entire Southern Hemisphere.

It’s a fantastic way to start your day. But if all that dancing isn’t enough to wake you up, then a coffee at nearby Bestie Café, followed by a stroll through innercity Myers Park, will certainly do the trick.

A whole book about adventures to be had in and around Auckland could be written and many people have done just that. Yet there’s a particular joy in just picking a direction and seeing where your wanderings take you. When the place you’re wandering in is Auckland, you can be assured that no matter where you wind up, the journey will be unbelievable.

Fiji Airways flies direct to Auckland daily from Nadi.

Photo FEROZ KHALIL

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VANUATU

World War II History in

VANUATU Words and images by TOM VIERUS When the mighty 200m SS President Coolidge was sailing through the main channel of the fringing reef headed for the American military base on Espiritu Santo on 26 October 1942, a loud explosion suddenly shook the ship and its crew. The channel had been mined by the Americans themselves to protect their base in the event of a Japanese invasion, but the information had not been passed on to Captain Henry Nelson. The explosion ripped a massive hole in the engine room of the SS Coolidge and Nelson was immediately aware that his ship was lost. When moments later a second sea mine exploded, the captain ran the ship aground on the nearest reef only a few dozen metres from shore.

The manoeuvre saved almost all of the 5340 people on board - many of them comfortably walking ashore.

Despite the Captain’s efforts, two American soldiers gave their lives that day: Robert Reid, a mechanic who was in the engine room at the time of the first explosion, and Captain Elwood Joseph Euart who lost his life in a heroic rescue operation to save a group of soldiers trapped in the infirmary of the sinking wreck. The young Captain Euart was already ashore when he learned of the fate of his comrades and turned around. He climbed through one of the sea doors, found his trapped comrades and helped them escape the ship. Tragically, he himself did not make it out and died that day in the belly of the SS Coolidge.

PACIFIC DIVE IN LUGANVILLE Nearly 77 years later, standing on the shore overlooking the sea that once swallowed the stateof-the-art ship we met with Scott Stickland, one of the managers of the Luganville-based dive shop, Pacific Dive. From the little town the shipwreck as well as ‘Million Dollar Point’, Espiritu Santo’s second remarkable historic site, can be reached within less than 30 minutes and both are easily accessible from the beach.

We dive with Rex Moli, who has undertaken several thousand dives on the wreck and knows it inside out. He was also the one who found the remains of Captain Euart in 2013. He sent the message to the US military who in turn sent a

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special forces team to recover the remains and fly them back to the USA in February 2014. Back home, Captain Euart received a military funeral and was buried alongside his late parents.

We feel in very capable hands with Rex as a guide and he is the only other human being in the water around the wreck besides my partner and myself.

A small flock of Fusiliers immediately greets us as we descend to 30 meters and look at the former engine room. Around us large mackerels are hunting in the clouds of small reef fish that have found their home here at the wreck.

Rex shows us old ammunition boxes, jeeps inside the cargo hold, even former military helmets and old coral-overgrown rifles and gas masks that are still to be found here. Over the next few dives, we dare to dive deeper into the wreck with Rex, who leads us through the front of the ship. It is pitch black inside, and the diving lights illuminate metal scraps, jeeps, and other equipment that was loaded in the Coolidge’s cargo hulls. We dive through narrow hatches, just big enough to pass through with our dive tanks and finally exit the ship at the anchor hatch. Wow - what a dive!

OVER 100,000 PEOPLE ON ESPIRITU SANTO Vanuatu played an essential role in the Allied struggle against the Japanese army in World War II. After Japan attacked Pearl Harbour on December 7, 1941, and tore a mighty hole in the American fleet, the Allies immediately made arrangements for a sizeable new Pacific base in Vanuatu. Here on Espiritu Santo, several airstrips, barracks and hospitals were built in record time, providing the necessary infrastructure to house more than 100,000 American soldiers and cater for almost all military needs. When the Americans decided to abandon the base after the end of the second World War in 1945, most of the equipment was left behind in a rather uncommon way at a place now referred to as “Million Dollar Point”.

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GRAVEYARD IN THE OCEAN Just a few minutes north of the SS Coolidge a cemetery of military vehicles including tanks, bulldozers, and trucks can be visited. With the surrender of Japan four months after the Germans, World War II was over in the Asian-Pacific region.

Throughout the last two years of the war, the Americans had accumulated vast amounts of military equipment on Espiritu Santo. Ships were scarce after the war and priority was given to the return of soldiers.

On top of that the costs of logistics and transport would have been far too high, and the Americans didn’t want to harm their own economy by flooding the market with retired and cheap military equipment. The army decided to leave it behind and offered everything to the French occupants in Vanuatu at sixty cents on the dollar value of the equipment. The French were unwilling to pay and speculated they would be able to take it all over for free when the Americans left. The American army responded by instead of leaving behind the jeeps, bulldozers, tanks and cannons, driving everything into the sea. Weighted accelerators drove the vehicles into the water while bulldozers pushed everything further into the sea before they suffered the same fate. If the Americans wouldn’t be paid, no one was to have their equipment.

CONTEMPORARY HISTORY IN VANUATU Three years after Vanuatu declared independence in 1980, the government imposed a ban on removing items and other materials from the SS President Coolidge and Million Dollar Point, safeguarding these two important historical sites to be visited by generations to come. With a modern World War II Museum currently being built in Luganville, the little town on Vanuatu’s largest island will likely develop into a popular destination for interested divers and history fans alike. Vanuatu offers far more than just these two wrecks with their 80 islands, but one thing is for sure: Espiritu Santo is well worth a visit - and not only for wreckdivers and history-lovers!

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MOVIES © 2019 WBEI

ENTERTAINMENT

© 2018 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

A STAR IS BORN

136 MIN | R | Comedy, Romance Director: Bradley Cooper Stars: Lady Gaga, Bradley Cooper, Sam Elliott Language: EN Seasoned musician Jackson Maine discovers— and falls in love with—struggling artist Ally.

©

2018

Twentieth

Century

Fox

FANTASTIC BEASTS: CRIMES OF GRINDELWALD

134 MIN | PG13 | Action, Thriller, Sci-Fi Director: David Yates Stars: Eddie Redmayne, Katherine Waterston, Dan Fog Language: EN Grindelwald has made a dramatic escape and has been gathering more followers to his cause

Film

Corporation. All rights reserved.

ROBOTS

91 MIN | PG | Kids, Animation Director: Chris Wedge Stars: Ewan McGregor, Halle Berry, Mel Brooks Language: EN A young and idealistic inventor travels to the big city.

PAD MAN

140 MIN | PG13 | Drama, Romance, History Director: R. Balki Stars: Akshay Kumar, Radhika Apte, Sonam Kapoor Language: HIN Rural welder Lakshmi embarks to manufacture low-cost sanitary pads.

HOUSE OF THE RISING SONS

103 MIN | PG13 | Comedy, Drama, Music Director: Antony Chan Stars: Carlos Chan, TAN Language: MAN The rise of the legendary band “The Wynners.”

SHOPLIFTERS 120 MIN | R | Action Director: Hirokazu Koreeda Stars: Lily Franky, Sakura Andô, Mayu Matsuoka Language: JPN Osamu comes across a little girl and takes her in.

Enjoy a greater selection of movies, TV and music onboard. Please check your inflight entertainment system for a full list of options. *Selection may vary depending on aircraft type and flight route/duration

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TELEVISION

GILMORE GIRLS - A YEAR IN THE LIFE

THE BIG BANG THEORY

45 MIN | PG13 | Drama Stars: Lauren Graham, Alexis Bledel, Scott Patterson

23 MIN | PG | Comedy Stars: Johnny Galecki, Jim Parsons, Kaley Cuoco

Language: EN

Language: EN

Fresh from a career high, Rory pays a visit to Stars Hollow. Emily copes with Richard’s death. The inn keeps Lorelai busy as she ponders her future.

Sheldon and Amy’s honeymoon runs aground in New York, while Penny and Leonard discover they are uncomfortably to Amy’s parents.

LETHAL WEAPON

SPEECHLESS

THIS IS US

SNOWFALL

45 MIN | PG13 | Comedy, Action Stars: Damon Wayans, Keesha Sharp, Kevin Rahm Language: EN Murtaugh and Riggs deal with their changing relationship.

23 MIN | PG | Comedy Stars: Minnie Driver, John Ross Bowie, Cedric Yarbrough Language: EN Ray is miserable after breaking up with Taylor.

45 MIN | PG13 | Drama Language: EN Stars:: Damson Idris, Carter Hudson, Sergio PerisMencheta Franklin struggles to keep up with the demands of his growing organization.

45 MIN | PG13 | Drama Language: EN Stars:: Milo Ventimiglia, Mandy Moore, Sterling K. Brown The Pearsons rally around Kate as she undergoes a medical procedure.

BUSINESS TRAVELLER

2 NATIONS 1 OBSESSION

23 MIN | PG | Lifestyle, Art Language: EN From flying cars to robot butlers and giant airships to self-driving suitcases, Business Traveller investigates what like in the future.

50 MIN | PG | Sport Stars: Allan Border, Sunil Gavaskar Language: EN Two countries are linked by their passion for cricket.

COMEDY CIRCUS

ACE VENTURA

30 MIN | PG | Hindi Comedy Stars: Parineeti Chopra Language: HIN This episode sees Parineeti Chopra as a special guest. The comic acts leave the special guest and the judges in stitches

23 MIN | G | Kids Language: EN Everybody’s favorite pet detective is back! It’s Ace Ventura, on the loose and on the case.

PROGRAMME RATINGS

G General audience: suitable for audiences of all ages PG Parental guidance suggested: some material may not be suitable for children PG-13 Parents strongly cautioned: some material may be

inappropriate for children under 13 R Restricted: viewers under 17 years of age should be

accompanied by a parent or an adult

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CONTENT RATINGS V S L D A SN H

Violence Sex or nudity Coarse language Drug references Adult/mature themes Supernatural themes Horror themes

LANGUAGES EN English CH Chinese MA Mandarin HI Hindi CA Cantonese

MUSIC

THE SEARCH FOR EVERYTHING

HUMAN

John Mayer | Genre: Pop/Easy Listening/Our Choice A very well known contemporary name - It’s easy listening to a large extent, but a go-to new release album on a mid to longhaul flight.

Rag’n’Bone Man | Genre : Pop Big on commercial radio, ‘17 Critic’s Choice winner. A rising star in the mainstream. Top 5 in NZ

AUDIO ON DEMAND

We have over 550 full length of albums from 12 different categories to choose from. Here are some of our favourites. For a full list see your onscreen menu.

POP

EASY LISTENING/ OLD FAVOURITES

ALTERNATIVE

Train - A Girl, a Bottle, a Boat One of the biggest US AC bands ever. Solid mainstream pop.

Roy Orbison - Black & White Night A famous performance beautifully re-released.

One of the all-time greats we currently don’t have onboard.

Holy Holy - Paint Exciting and fresh sounding alternative (rare at the moment!). Great interesting sounds about our the current world and culture. Huge on Triple J.

R&B/SOUL Pitbull - Climate Change Featuring Flo Rida, Ty Dolla $ign, Jason Derulo, Enrique Iglesias - Very high profile talent. A touch of MOR but not necessarily in a bad way,

George Michael - Ladies & Gentlemen Fresh in our minds with his recent passing. We don’t have a best of onboard, he’s one of the all time great pop singers and a must-have.

Khalid - American Teen A fantastic debut - soft synth R&B, a more minimal sound that will sound fresh this year as an antidote to some of the pop trends of 2016.

KIDS Various Artists - Trolls Soundtrack Top 10 in the US and wordwide. A perfect album for the kids’ section. Timberlake, Grande, Stefani..

CLASSICAL François Salque & Eric Le Sage - Beethoven Two fo the great current musicians playing the greatest classical music of all time.

CHANNELS POP/ROCK The Vibe (120 mins) Jase Hawkins brings you the latest and greatest pop music and culture from around the globe.

CHILDREN’S Kid’s Corner (120 mins) Hey kids, come on a mid-air adventure with lots of great, exciting music. It’s guaranteed to be fun.

CLASSICAL Concerto (120 mins) Let the power and art of classical music sweep you away on your journey. During this 2 hour show we present the latest and the best of the classical genre.

WORSHIP Soul Deep (120 mins) Replenish your soul with these praise and worship tracks for travellers.

LOUNGE The Lounge (120 mins) Sit back and relax with this carefully chosen selection of music designed to make you feel blissfully chilled out and laid back during your flight.

HINDI Hindi Harmonium (120 mins) The most exciting and entertaining Hindi hits will take you Bollywood and beyond.

Artist Highlight Spotlight: George Michael (120 mins) In this episode we shine the spotlight on the life and times of George Michael.

FIJIAN HITS Vude FM (120 mins) Join us on Vude FM for 2 hours full of Fijian favourites, from Makare to Kabani.

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London

Fiji Link Routes

Interline Routes

Codeshare Routes

Fiji Airways Routes

ROUTE KEY

Rome

Amsterdam Paris Frankfurt

Dubai

PERTH

Perth

Bangkok

SINGAPORE

Chennai

HONG KONG

ADELAIDE

DARWIN

HOBART

SYDNEY CANBERRA

BRISBANE

CAIRNS TOWNSVILLE ROCKHAMPTON

AUSTRALIAN CODESHARE

Mumbai Hyderabad

New Delhi

Kolkata

PORT VILA

CHRISTCHURCH

AUCKLAND

KIRITIMATI

HONOLULU

WELLINGTON

AUCKLAND

VAVA’U NUKU’ALOFA

APIA SUVA

WELLINGTON

NEW ZEALAND CODESHARE

CHRISTCHURCH

SYDNEY

NADI

FUNAFUTI

TARAWA HONIARA

BRISBANE

Darwin

Taipei

TOKYO

ADELAIDE MELBOURNE

Shanghai

Beijing

NADI

Kahului Kona

San Jose Fresno Monterey Santa Barbara

ROTUMA

KADAVU

Kansas City Denver

SUVA

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Boston

Chicago Indianapolis Nashville

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LAKEBA

CICIA

VANUABALAVU

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FIJI DESTINATIONS

LOS

St. Louise

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New York Albuquerque Philadelphia Charlotte Las Vegas Baltimore Phoenix Raleigh-Durham Atlanta Palm Springs Washington DC ANGELES TucsonDallas Oklahoma Houston Orlando Austin Tampa Bay San Diego

SAN FRANCISCO

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fiji airways destinations

Our FleeT BOEING 737-700 Boeing 737-700 BUSINESS 8 - Economy ECONOMY

8 - Business class 112 class

BOEING 737-800 BUSINESS 8 BUSINESS 8

ECONOMY ECONOMY

112

154 162

Airbus 330-200

AIRBUS A330-200 24 - Business class BUSINESS 24

ECONOMY

249

AIRBUS A330-300 BUSINESS 24

ECONOMY

289

249 - Economy class

Boeing 737-700 8 - Business class

112 - Economy class

Fiji Link DHC6-300 BUSINESS n/a ECONOMY 19

ATR 42-600 BUSINESS n/a ECONOMY 46

ATR 72-600 BUSINESS ECONOMY

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EARN QANTAS FREQUENT FLYER POINTS WITH AVIS*

FLY WELL YOGA FOR AIRPLANES Airplanes and yoga don’t often mix. There’s nothing like a few hours in a restricted space to make your body feel tight and blocked. If you’re on a long haul flight, stretching out and relaxing is even more challenging. Try this in-flight yoga routine to help your body feel restored and rejuvenated during the flight. This way you’ll land with a relaxed body and mind.

MEDITATION Assume any comfortable seated position and straighten your spine. If you’re in a regular seat, scoot slightly forward to avoid rounding your back.

Pivot into the hips and engage the pelvic floor.

Close your eyes, bring your attention to your breath. Count your breath backward from ten.

Repeat a few times. Then let your attention rest on the heart centre. Open your eyes.

SEATED SPINAL TWIST Keeping both sitting bones planted, pivot slightly forward into the hips. Inhale as you maximize the space between the vertebrae, exhale as you gently twist towards the right. Don’t over do it, just allow your spine to elongate. Use the hands to guide and support the movement. Gaze to the right. Stay for five breaths and repeat on the other wise.

To make a reservation, please contact: • Nadi Airport (24 hours) • Port Denarau (Free delivery to all Denarau Resorts)

• Coral Coast • Suva • Nausori Airport (we meet all pre-booked clients)

• Labasa

RESERVATIONS Phone (679) 672 2233 (24 hours) Email info@avis.com.fj Website www.avis.com.fj

* You must be a member of the Qantas Frequent Flyer program to earn points.

Membership and points are subject to the terms and conditions of the Qantas Frequent Flyer program. A joining fee may apply. For more information about earning points with Avis visit qantas.com.au/cars. CT10636

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SEATED LEG LIFTS Pivot slightly forward into your hips. Draw your right knee up into your chest and wrap your arms around your shin. Exhale as you extend your left leg as much as possible. Stay for five breaths. Reach under your thigh and wrap your arms around. Inhale as you suck in the lower abdomen. Exhale as you straighten the leg as much as accessible. Stay for five breaths, then repeat on the other aide. Next try both legs. Lean back on your sacrum and hug both knees into your chest. Tuck the head under and exhale as you round the back. Stay for five breaths. Either wrap the arms around your thighs or hold the feet. Inhale as your straighten the legs as much as accessible. Be aware of overhead space. Stay for five breaths.

TREE POSE From any standing position, Tree Pose is a great way to relieve pressure on your feet and work your balance.

Try it while waiting in line or get up at any time and work your legs! Start off with you feet together. Inhale as you externally rotate your right hip joint and draw the right foot as close to your pelvis as possible. If the foot does not rise up above the knee, then keep it below the knee to avoid applying pressure on the knee. Activate your left leg and feel your balance from the pelvic floor. Either place your hands in prayer or place one hand on the wall to assist your balance. Gaze at the nose. Stay for five breaths and then repeat on the other side.

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Terms and Conditions: Vodafone Fiji Online Web Top Up service can be accessed from around the World using Credit or Debit Cards. Visit www.vodafone.com.fj and select Web Top Up to Recharge Vodafone Fiji numbers online. Compulsory registration will be required in order to use the Online Web Top Up service. On every Online Top Up transaction, Vodafone Fiji Prepaid Customers will get Special Recharge Bonanza promotion benefit i.e Customers in Fiji will get 4UP on Recharge of $15, 5UP on $25 and 5UP plus Free Data Everyday on Recharge of $35 or more. 5UP plus Bonus Free Data is applicable on $35 to $100 recharge denominations and free money for all denominations will expire in 30 days. Customers in Fiji will get Free 5GB data on recharge of $35 valid for 5 days, 10GB free data on recharge of $50 valid for 10 days and 15GB free data on recharge of $65 or more which will be valid for 15 days. Free Money and Free Data expires within the specified time stated above and will not be extended with new recharge. Data roll-over will not apply on the free data. Free money can be used for on-net calls and sms only. On-net means Vodafone to Vodafone and Vodafone to Inkk mobile numbers. Online Web Top Up promotion end date will be communicated to Vodafone Fiji customers via sms broadcast. Vodafone Fiji number range are as follows: 22, 27, 28, 29, 80, 83, 86, 89, 90, 91, 92, FIJITIME 93, 94, 97 and 99. For more information call our customer care line on +679 9902123 (charged) or visit our website www.vodafone.com.fj

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