Teton and Yellowstone Adventure Guide 2014 by Bob Woodall

Adventure Guide 2014

GRAND TETON & YELLOWSTONE

Mountain Towns National Parks Vacation Excursions Regional Map

yellowstoneadventureguide.com

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JEWELRY ORIGINALS

38 YEARS OF INSPIRATION AT 6000 FT. Gaslight Alley • Downtown Jackson Hole • 125 N. Cache

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ACTIVITIES 6 17 20 22 26 32 33 35 36 41 42 45 46 48 51 52 54 55 56 57 58 60

101 Things To Do Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center Snow King Mountain Resort Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Grand Targhee Resort Rodeo: Cody Nite Rodeo Buffalo Bill Dam Green River Rendezvous Wildlife Watching Skateboarding Hiking Climbing Pathways Mountain Biking Shooting Range Fishing Scenic & Whitewater Rafting Jenny Lake Boat Cruises Stand Up Paddle Boarding Waterway Access Sea Kayaking Horseback Riding

MUSEUMS 7 7 30 35

Jackson Hole Historical Society National Museum of Wildlife Art Buffalo Bill Center of the West Museum of the Mountain Man

Mountain TOWNS 18 22 26 28 29 30 34

Jackson Teton Village Grand Targhee Teton Valley Dubois Cody Pinedale

MAPS & DIRECTORIES Cover: Lynsey Dyer, professional athlete, photographer, filmmaker, and non-profit founder steals a moment away from directing her upcoming ski film to shred some single track at home in Idaho. Look for Pretty Faces set to release this fall. UnicornPicnic.com Support getting more girls outside at the 501(c)3 Lynsey co-founded at Shejumps.org Contents: Caroline Schou stand up paddleboarding on Leigh Lake in Grand Teton National Park. Cover, contents photos by Wade McKoy Publishers: Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy, dba Focus Productions, Inc. (FPI) Editors: Mike Calabrese, Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall Photo Editor: Eric Rohr Art Direction: Janet Melvin Advertising Sales: Debra Snyder focus.ads@bresnan.net, 307-733-6995

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Grand Teton / Yellowstone Adventure Guide is a free visitorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s guide published annually in May and distributed all summer at hundreds of locations throughout Jackson Hole, Cody, West Yellowstone, Pinedale, Dubois, and other regional communities, and at information centers throughout the Greater Yellowstone area. focus.info@bresnan.net Copyright 2014 by Focus Productions, Inc. P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, WY 83001. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publishers.

Adventure Directory Lodging Directory Greater Yellowstone Map

Go online and easily view our mobile-friendly websites: Jackson Hole Dining & Restaurant Guide, Jackson Hole Skier & Summer Adventure Guide facebook.com/focusjh focusproductions.com tetonadventureguide.com yellowstoneadventureguide.com Order magazines, posters, postcards, and photos online. To mail-order the current set of three magazines, send $12 to: FPI Magazines, P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, WY 83001

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Get ready. Get set. Then go on all of your outdoor adventures!

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101 Things To Do

Bob Woodall photos

Vacation Adventures in Mountain Country

Shooting rapids on the Snake River as it winds through the canyon south of Jackson Hole

Photography by Bob Woodall and Wade McKoy

Relax.

That’s what vacations are all about. Flip through Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide and discover an array of activities for this vast region. As you head out to the sights, stop by our first-rate visitor centers, some regional tourist attractions themselves. Local bookstores and libraries are great resources, too. Dancing the Western swing at the Cowboy

NATIONAL PARKS

A single entrance fee gains access to both Grand Teton National Park (GTNP) and Yellowstone National Park (YNP). The entrance stations are not information booths, though; better to visit the many well-cached information centers found in the parks themselves and gateway towns. The folks queuing behind your vehicle will appreciate your efficiency and courtesy. Especially those shuttling a boatload of restless youngsters. The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem (GYE), the largest intact ecosystem in the lower 48 states, includes a dozen mountain ranges along the Great Divide, the country’s first and largest national park and national forest, the farthest point from a road outside Alaska, and, not surprisingly, wildlife galore. Slow down and watch for wildlife—Sometimes called the American Serengeti, YNP and

Wade McKoy

Swinging in the trees on the slopes of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort at Teton Village

GTNP are home to bison, elk, deer, moose, grizzly and black bear, wolves, mountain lion, wolverine, osprey, eagles, and myriad other small animals. Go early in the morning and keep your eyes peeled. Lamar and Hayden valleys in YNP are good bets for sighting bison, wolves, and grizzly bears. Moose frequent willowed bottomlands. Stay alert, though, even on strolls around park developments. And never approach or feed wildlife! Up your odds for great photos or experiences by taking a wildlife tour with qualified guides. Wildlife Tours—Wildlife Expeditions of Teton Science Schools has pretty much set the standard in this area. The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem is huge, but this outfit brings it all into view through tours, hikes, workshops and pathways into one of North America’s most vibrant biospheres. Waterfalls—The 308-foot Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River is the granddaddy of the many roadside water features, but a hike can reveal the park’s more obscure, dramatic torrents.

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In the Tetons thousands of sightseers trek to Hidden Falls, which, for many, begins with a boat ride across Jenny Lake (pg. 55). Smell the wild roses—The mountains are famous for a profusion of wildflowers. Starting in late May and June, dazzling displays of color follow the snowline into the mountains. Some are tiny, especially the ones above timberline, so look closely. Old Faithful Inn—Of course the Old Faithful Geyser is on your must-see list, but don’t pass up a venture into the spectacular Old Faithful Inn. It’s well over 100 years old and bathed in a rich history. Ranger Programs—From Ranger Adventure Hikes to Family Campfire Evenings to Stars Over Yellowstone, these programs offer something for the whole family. The park newspaper contains all the schedules. Online http://www.nps. gov/yell/index.htm, go to Plan Your Visit. Get on the bus—Tired of having to watch the road while everyone else gets to look for bears?

Then savor Yellowstone from the same perspective as early park visitors by touring in the luxury of a refurbished “Historic Yellow Bus.” Photograph the sights—Digital, film, recorder, whatever. Everybody’s a pro out here. Get a long lens, too. Again, don’t ever approach wild animals! They can easily outrun humans and simply aren’t as fond of us as we are of them. Passport to your national parks—Buy a “Passport Book” at the park visitor center. A colorful way to track your lifetime travels across America. After each visit to a park or monument (there are 390), take the passport book to the Cancellation Station and get it stamped.

EDUCATION

Muse on!—The Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum recently opened its new facility two blocks north of the Jackson Town Square. View the settlement of Jackson Hole through artifacts, documents, photos, books and the oral histories of trappers, homesteaders, dude ranchers, and adventurers.

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Bob Woodall / Grand Teton National Park Foundation

101 Things To Do

Cascade Canyon’s rushing creek reveals the power of nature to summer hikers on this front-country trail.

Then there’s the big boy: the National Museum of Wildlife Art. Only minutes from the town square on Cache Street and dramatically perched above the National Elk Refuge, the National Museum of Wildlife Art is more an event than a place. Home to over 5,000 works of art on wildlife and nature– many historic– it also brims with a full summer of festive events. This season’s “Art in Action” series runs through July, showcasing prominent artists at work, both indoors and outdoors. The world-renowned edifice is eminently approachable, too. The valley’s premier bike pathway, right next to the museum and its popular Rising Sage café, now also attracts recreationists looking to stimulate the mind and the heart. Ample parking, jaw-dropping views, and vivid works make this museum irresistible. For hours, fees, and a schedule of festivities, go online at www.wildlifeart.org. Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center—Got skunked in Yellowstone, never spotting a wolf or bear? Don’t despair. Head to West Yellowstone and say hello to Sam the Grizzly or Takoda the Wolf at this lifelike viewing facility. Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center—In downtown Dubois, Wyoming, experience these stunning, full-size bighorns in breathtaking realism set amidst their natural flora and geology. Photos and hands-on exhibits transport visitors into the majestic range and habits of these powerful animals. Set aside some time for the kids to take in the center’s engaging interactive displays and information (pg. 17). Libraries—Books, music, movies, lectures, computers, and insight into just about every community in mountain country. Great havens for tired travelers and curious kids, especially if the weather is a tad uncooperative. Bookstores—Some with coffee, pastries, newspapers, wi-fi—but all with books and settings that enrich readers young and old!

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CULTURE

Music festivals—A score of music events await mountain country travelers. The world-class Grand Targhee Bluegrass and Targhee Fest and music camps fill the hills with tunes and Jackson’s Center for the Arts hosts summer music and dance concerts, stage presentations, and art shows. Teton Village continues its popular free Concert on the Commons performance series, and in Victor, Idaho, free high-profile concerts in the park bring weekly gatherings to its Music on Main events. Art fairs—There’s no better way to celebrate nature’s art-inspiring elements than at one of the many artists’ fairs highlighting summer weekends throughout mountain country. Wander through festive outdoor galleries and watch artisans in the creative act. Antique shows—Snap up a bargain, maybe even a piece of history, at one of the many antique road shows hosted in our mountain towns. Classic car shows— Americans love their cars, and none more so than the auto buffs who stage the Jackson Hole Rendezvous from June 7-9 on the main street lawn of the Virginian Hotel. Sponsored by the Eastern Idaho Early Iron Organization, the event dazzles young and old with restored gems from the golden age of the U.S. auto industry. Want more than just windowshopping? Then view or bid on vintage cars displayed at the Silver Collector Car Show and Auction, July 7-8 in Teton Village. Fall Arts Festival—A major Jackson Hole shindig, commencing around Labor Day and running through mid September. The confab is highlighted by ranch tours, culinary events, and endless activities. Gallery walks—Stroll through the many art galleries in mountain towns. It doesn’t cost to look! Join the organized “walks,” often complete with free food!

Walk around the town—Boardwalks and wide-open shop-lined streets from the old West are central to every gateway town in Teton / Yellowstone country. Jackson’s town square is set off by elk-antler archways and ringed by boardwalks and historic buildings. Unique shops, eateries, and galleries characterize these mountain towns. Go shopping—Therapeutic, patriotic, and economically stimulating, shopping in mountain country is a gas. From carved bears to elk antler items to unique clothing to everyday dining delights, regional enterprises know how to treat the customer right. Drive-in theaters—Not many of these left in the world, but one of the more famous, the Spud Drive-in Theatre, just south of Driggs, Idaho, is a trip back in time. Look for the giant spud on the old red flatbed truck, just off the highway between Victor and Driggs, Idaho. Film festivals—Fall film festivals this season include the Jackson Hole Wildlife Film Festival’s off-year gathering “Wild Science,” October 4-6. Showcased at the Jackson Center for the Arts downtown, the program will also feature the increasingly popular TEDxJacksonHole. Local hint: Watch for Frank’s 24th Annual Fall Film Festival. Those in the know go! Live theater—Family fun right in the heart of towns like Jackson Hole, West Yellowstone, and Cody, some even hosting dinner theater for eats and antics. Go out to eat—An army runs on its stomach, and an army of tourists has countless dining opportunities not available in many areas. Take advantage of mountain country’s diverse gustatory offerings. Pick up a Jackson Hole Dining Guide, online at jhdiningguide.com Fire department chicken fries and barbecues—Throughout summer volunteer fire departments throw fundraising chicken-fries and BBQs. All visitors are welcome. A great way to meet locals and experience a sweet slice of American pie. Dance to the music—Don’t just dance to the music, dance to live music. Many bars and taverns offer nightly live music. Get out and kick up your heels! Learn to Western Swing: free lessons at 7:30 on Thursday nights at Jackson’s Cowboy Bar. Learn to Square Dance: another Western tradition, master the dosido and allemande left on Tuesday nights at the Rustic Pine Tavern in Dubois, Wyoming. Families welcome. Watch for info in all our western towns.

Motorboat cruises—Board a scenic motorboat and cruise Jenny Lake to the base of the Tetons. An hour spent as a passenger on a comfortable lake craft reveals a wealth of insight into regional history, geology, plants, and animals. Or ride the shuttle boat across the lake and hike to nearby Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point in Cascade Canyon (pg. 55). Canoeing & sea kayaking—Want to be a little more intimate with the water? The possibilities are almost endless. Rent a canoe or kayak on Jenny Lake and take the family for a paddle

on crystal-clear mountain waters at the base of the Tetons (pg. 55). Rent boats in the town of Jackson to explore our many lakes and streams (pg. 57). Whitewater kayaking—To get really personal with the river, there’s nothing like being in a kayak, splashing through rapids or surfing a wave for as long as you can hold on. Stand Up Paddle Boards (SUP)—Feel like Hawaiian royalty standing on a long surfboard propelling yourself along the river currents. Paddling while standing affords a bird’s-eye view

WATER, WATER, EVERYWHERE

Go fish—Mountain country holds some of the best fishing streams and lakes in the lower 48 states. The area abounds with angling shops and guide services. Hire a guide or just get out and explore (pg. 52). Whitewater rafting—The Snake, Yellowstone, and Shoshone rivers sport miles of whitewater action. Lots of commercial services are available, or rent a raft and go get wet (pg. 54). Scenic raft trips—Not into getting wet? Then how about a sublime sunrise voyage on the Snake River in front of the Grand Tetons? Watch a bald eagle soar or dive for breakfast. (pg. 54). w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m

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101 Things To Do into the clear waters and stunning vistas. Rent one and find out why SUP is the fastest growing water sport in the world (pg. 56). Water slide and pool—Rained out or just want to get some exercise? Then head to the J.H. Rec. Center, complete with lap pool, kids’ pool, Jacuzzi, steam room, and three-story water slide. Take the entire family. Supervised, adult-led day-adventure programs for kids available, too. Ask about public swimming pools in all mountain country towns. Swim alfresco—You’ll find a number of unique options for outdoor swimming around mountain country. In YNP, check out the Firehole River near Madison Junction or the Boiling River near Gardiner, where hot springs flow into the river (swimming in hot springs themselves is prohibited and dangerous). In GTNP, String Lake is an outstanding swimming hole, safe for the whole family. If you want it hot and in a commercial swimming pool, visit Granite Hot Springs, south of Jackson. Sailing—Fremont Lake outside Pinedale, Jackson Lake in GTNP, and Yellowstone Lake all have sailboats in the docks and on the water. Local windsurfers show up when the waves reach whitecap status. Best dam views—Completed in 1910, the Buffalo Bill Dam near Cody is the most impressive one this side of the Hoover Dam. Stroll across the dam and peer 325 feet into the canyon bottom. In GTNP, drive over Jackson Lake Dam, gaze across the lake at the Tetons and marvel at the thundering waters churning out of the spillways.

Wade McKoy photo

GET A LIFT

Hop on the Bus—The Jackson Hole START Bus system makes getting around easy. In Jackson ride all over town for free. Buses are on a half-hour schedule. Hourly departures to Teton Village. Three bucks for adults, half price for seniors and students through 12th grade. Buses also run south to Star Valley and west to Teton Valley. Visit startbus.com for a complete fee/time schedule and maps. Tram—Climb 4,139 feet above the valley floor aboard the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram. At the summit of Rendezvous Mountain, a lofty 10,450 feet, tram passengers step out into the Alpine zone, right at the tree-line’s edge. Take in a 360-degree panorama of the Jackson Hole valley and nearby and distant mountain features. Ride the tram, hike the trails or “fly” (pg. 22) back to the valley floor. Tandem paragliding—From the top of the tram, sprout wings on a 20-minute tandem flight with Jackson Hole Paragliding. Certified pilots with hundreds of hours flying in the Tetons are eager to introduce first-timers to the exhilarating experience of tandem paragliding (pg. 22). Chairlifts—Not only do these lifts get you up above it all for an impressive view of the scenery, but they also provide quick backcountry access for hikers and mountain bikers. Both Snow King (pg. 20) and Grand Targhee (pg. 26) mountain resorts offer rides. Dine on a mountainside—Ride the Bridger Gondola at Teton Village up to the Couloir Restaurant for a peak dining experience 2,730 feet above the valley. Or head up for afternoon cocktails on the Deck and marvel at a high-altitude Jackson Hole sunset. The ride is free (pg. 22). Balloon rides—Greet the morning by lofting

into crisp mountain air under a colorful hot-air balloon. Bungee-trampolining—Give your youngster the thrill of a trampoline with the lift and spring of bungee cords (pg. 20, 22). Alpine slide—Take the chairlift up, then board a sled for a journey down a mountain slide that curves and dips through the forest at Snow King (pg. 20). Glider rides—Mountains create updrafts, and that means good gliding. Check the Driggs, Idaho, airport for information on glider rides.

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

Hiking—An almost endless array of trails radiate into the mountains. The only limits are your legs and longing. The views? You supply the adjectives (pg. 42).

Caring for You on Both Sides of the Tetons St John’s

Family Health & Urgent Care

Appointments and walk-ins welcome Jim Little, Jr., MD April North, MD Jenny Fritch, PA-C Tessa Enright FNP-BC Mon - Fri: 9:00 am - 7:00 pm; Sat, Sun: 10:00 am - 4:00 pm

307 739 8999

1415 S Hwy 89, Jackson, WY

Turn at Smith’s Food Store Plaza

St John’s

4 Peaks Clinic

Appointments and walk-ins welcome Scott Thomas, MD Cecelia Tramburg, FNP Mon - Fri: 8:30 am - 6:00 pm; Sat: 8:30 am - 12:30 pm

208 354 4757 852 Valley Center Drive, Driggs, ID Turn at Broken Spur store north of the Driggs stoplight

Andrew Whiteford rides one of the many jumps safely designed into The Bike Park at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort.

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Wade McKoy

Bob Woodall photos

Jackson Lake in the foreground, with Leigh Lake (right) and Jenny Lake (left) at the foot of the Grand Tetons

A Quick Draw at the Fall Arts Festival

The Harvest Festival, one of many area farmers markets held thoughout summer

Camping—The great outdoors was made for camping. Get away from the car or motor home and rough it! Cook out on an open fire and sleep under the stars. Nothing like it under the sun, of course. Climb the Grand—Often listed in the 100 things to do in your life, and for a good reason! Despite a peak 7,000 feet above the valley, topping the Grand is an attainable goal for anyone in good physical condition and among the right companions. Some of the world’s best guides and instructors live here (pg. 45). Mountain biking—Our trail systems are among the finest in the country (pg. 46). Pathways—Walk, ride a bike, rollerblade. Jackson Hole’s extensive pathway system rewards all users with a peaceful state of mind (pg. 50). Shooting—Certified pistol- and rifle-use instruction, skeet and trap shooting with shotguns, all at the Jackson Hole Gun Club site south of the town of Jackson. A wide selection of guns, covered shooting area, two separate pistol bays, and a classroom (pg. 49).

ATHLETIC EVENTS

Enter a marathon—If you’re a vacationing runner, make a race part of the fun. The annual Jackson Hole Marathon is slated for August 30 this

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year. The event also includes a half-marathon division. Learn about this “cup-free” competition online at jacksonholemarathon.com. Three major hill-climb footraces are held in during summer. The Run To The Summit Series includes the Snow King Hill Climb in Jackson, the Rendezvous Mountain Hill Climb at Teton Village in August, and in the Targhee region, the Targhee Hill Climb Wrun For Wray in June. The Grand Teton Relay, slated for August 15-16, is a 12- or 6-person running relay covering 180 miles from Ashton, Idaho, to Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Visit www.grandteton.relay.com. Run a 24-hour relay—In the Cache-Teton Relay, August 8-9, 12-person teams start in Logan, Utah, pad 205 miles through four national forests along the historic Oregon Trail and the shoreline of Blackfoot Reservoir, then through Star Valley and finally along the Snake River to finish at the foot of the Tetons (www.epicrelays.com). Many other regional towns sponsor marathons, half-marathons, and fun runs as part of holiday events and fairs. Posters and papers should catch your eye. Mountain bike and running races—No surprise to find plenty of mountain bike and running events in the Rockies. Teton Village alone

Bob Woodall / Grand Teton National Park Foundation

Waist-high wildflowers garnish hiking trails ringed by snow-capped peaks

hosts four competitions, including the 12-hour downhill Red Bull Final Descent and the ultimate hill climb up 4,139 vertical feet to the top of Rendezvous Mountain. The Victor/Driggs biking community also hosts a variety of mountain bike fests to keep the quiet side of the Tetons buzzing: Pierre’s Hole 50/100 Endurance Mountain Bike Race, August 16, 2014; Wydaho Mountain Bike Festival August 29-Sept. 1; and the Targhee Enduro Mountain Bike Race, a huge downhill race series in September. Bikers and runners in Jackson line up to tackle the challenging course at the annual Cache-to-Game-Creek race. And the ever-popular annual Snow King Hill Climb starts on the Town Square, as does the wildly successful September fundraiser, Old Bill’s. In Wilson, a new race on the Arrow, Phillips Ridge, and Phillips Canyon trails gives bikers both 50- and 100-mile options, while runners attack the 50-mile course. For local info check in with bike shops and resorts throughout mountain country. Road bike races—One of the few – and possibly the best – is the LOTOJA (Logan to Jackson). Slated for September 6, 2014, this 206-mile contest, a European-style road classic competition, attracts nearly 1,000 cyclists (www.lotojaclassic.com).

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Kayak events—Top-tier paddlers test their whitewater skills on the Hoback, Snake, and Greys rivers while roadside spectators enjoy the thrills of competition at the Wyoming Whitewater Championships in early summer. Additional racing includes canoeing, stand-up paddle boarding (SUP), and rafting. A film festival and party round out the fundraiser’s activities. Around mid-June enjoy a free boating demo day on historic Slide Lake at the Intermountain Paddle Sports Symposium. Bring the family to the Atherton Creek boat ramp, where you can try kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, canoes, and sailing kayaks. Instruction, paddling clinics, a barbeque, and an SUP race round out the family fun, all amid the rugged Gros Ventre Mountain range.

TEE TIME

Mini golf—Everyone can enjoy this activity, without breaking the bank, either! Cody, West Yellowstone, Jackson Hole, and more tucked away at motels all over mountain country. Frisbee golf—What a combo! Can you imagine it? At both JHMR and Grand Targhee (pg. 22, 26). Real golf—More golf courses than you can shake a club at! Jackson

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Bob Woodall photos

Cowpokes singin’ ‘round the campfire

Yellowstone River’s Grand Canyon and Lower Falls, its yellow stone rightly glowing

An outfitter waters his mount and feeds his soul at a pristine Washakie Wilderness meadow.

Hole sports four, Teton Valley is home to a couple, and the loop from Cody to West Yellowstone to Ashton, Idaho, to Jackson to Dubois, Wyoming, must hold a dozen more. Naturally, the prices range from family to fortune.

GET WESTERN

Mountain man rendezvous—The 79th Annual Green River Rendezvous, July 10-13, 2014, in Pinedale, Wyoming, is a pageant that educates visitors about the history of fur-trade era events. Rendezvous also take place throughout the summer in Jackson, Alpine, and West Yellowstone and are open to the public. Great places to find unique items. Or outfit yourself and join in the fun! Indian Pow-wows—This is Indian country, too, and perfect for a traditional Pow-wow. The most prominent one is the Annual Plains Indian Museum Pow-wow, June 21-22, 2014, in Cody, Wyoming. Indian dancers try to catch the judges’ eyes with personal style, footwork falling on the beat of the music, and beautifully crafted dance attire (pg. 30).

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Indian Pow-wows—This is Indian country, too, and perfect for a traditional Pow-wow. The most prominent one is the Annual Plains Indian Museum Pow-wow, June 15-16, 2013, in Cody, Wyoming. Indian dancers try to catch the judges’ eyes with personal style, footwork falling on the beat of the music, and beautifully crafted dance attire (pg. 30). Chuckwagon dinners and shows—Ranging from dinner under the Tetons at Dornan’s to polished performances showcasing cowboy musicians and theater in most of our mountain towns. In Teton Village mount a gentle horse or board a covered wagon to a hearty Dutch oven dinner complete with campfire entertainment. Horseback trail rides and pack trips—You are in the West after all, so what better way to experience it than astride a horse! Head to the hills for an hour, a day, or even a week (pg. 60). Stagecoach rides—In Jackson Hole, a short stagecoach ride around downtown Jackson will light up the faces of young and old. From Roosevelt Lodge in YNP, stagecoaches, replicas of those used in early park

days, course through four miles of sagebrush and flower-embroidered flats. Cody Trolley Toursâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;A 60-minute, 22-mile tour in a comfortable red & green trolley. Narrators recount the story of world-famous William F. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Buffalo Billâ&#x20AC;? Cody while highlighting historical sites, scenic vistas, geology, wildlife, and Old- and New-West attractions. Dude ranchesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;The quintessential Western vacation. From rustic to polished, these weeklong emersions into the lore of the Old West are the perfect family getaway. Rodeoâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;The Old West rides into arenas nightly in Cody and several times a week in Jackson and West Yellowstone. Rodeos, like fireworks and parades, are also integral to July 4th celebrations throughout the West (pg. 32). Shootoutâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;The legendary Old West shootout is re-enacted nightly on the streets of Jackson and Cody. For real-action shooting, though, check out Codyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wild West Shootout competition in June. No blanks at this event. Visit a ghost townâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Tour the abandoned gold-mining town of Kirwin in the mountains southwest of Meeteetse. Four-wheel drive recommended. Codyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Old Trail Townâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;One-of-a-kind buildings from the past, including the famous hideout used by Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. Colorful characters might still haunt nearby gravesites, too. Mule Daysâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be stubborn! Check out Jake Clarkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Mule Days in Ralston, near Cody, June 11-15, 2014. Not just a pack â&#x20AC;&#x153;ani-mule,â&#x20AC;? the venerable saddle mule is front and center in its own parade, rodeo, and auction, all highlighting the abilities of a true Western character.

SPECIAL EVENTS

Elk antler auctionâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Jacksonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is the King of the Heap, held every year in late May. A down-home Western-town gathering and kickoff to spring in mountain country.

Farmers Marketsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;No reason to strike out for the mega marketâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s comestibles. Locavores can get their fresh-food fix right on the beaten path. Watch for popular farmers markets throughout the region. Fourth of Julyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Music, rodeos, community picnics, parades, foot races, and of course fireworks. What more can we say! Local papers post complete lists of events. County fairsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;These are true community events out here in the West. Horses, cows, pigs, sheep, and the best-grown produce of locals, as well as fiddle contests, magic shows, even carnival rides and stands complete with corn dogs and cotton candy.

SCENIC DRIVES

Teton Park Inner Loopâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;This idyllic roadway takes you as close to the mountains as you can get in a vehicle. For the best glimpses of wildlife, come early, stay late. Catch the alpenglow at sunrise or the shadows lengthening at sunset. Beartooth Passâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Truly one of the most spectacular, not-to-be-missed drives in America. Between Red Lodge, Montana, and the Northeast Entrance of YNP, the highway switchbacks up the mountainside to above timberline and a 10,940-foot summit. Along the way, cold mountain streams, crashing waterfalls, and deep-blue alpine lakes dot the landscape, while jagged granite peaks jut into the sky. The excursion passes from sub-alpine to alpine environments. Give yourself plenty of time, though; a parade of continuous vistas beckon â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and a snowball fight in July is traditional! Chief Joseph Scenic Highwayâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Between Cody and the Northeast Entrance of YNP, another zigzagging traverse heads over Dead Indian Hill and into Sunlight Basin. Its isolation and incredible vistas make this wide but infrequently used highway a pleasure to travel along. From the summit you can look deep into both the mountains and the Clarks Fork River Canyon. Wapiti Valleyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Between the East Entrance of YNP and Cody, this

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101 Things To Do

A fine-spotted cutthroat trout on the line

Opalescent Pool in Yellowstone

Ashton to Victor, Idaho—This delightful rural byway undulates over the rolling hills of eastern Idaho farmlands, the ever-present Teton Range looming magnificently in the distance. Best time to enjoy it is in late afternoon, heading toward the mountains. Look Up at the Stars Now that night has fallen, don’t just hit the sack. Head outside and cast those eyes skyward! If you’re a city dweller, you really shouldn’t miss this experience. The Milky Way sweeps across the clear western heavens in a blaze of glittering light and confirms the existence of real stars and astronomical delights.

Photos: Wade McKoy (2); Bob Woodall (1)

spectacular valley is a treat for the eyes. The many strange, eroded rock formations look like, well, whatever your imagination can come up with. Kids excel at this kind of travel creativity. Keep an eye out for the Cookie Monster somewhere up there. Elkhart Park—From Pinedale, the Fremont Lake Road heads north out of town, crosses a glacial moraine, and then climbs past 10-mile-long Fremont Lake and on to Elkhart Park. From this popular trailhead, views are afforded well into the Wind River Mountains and down 2,000 feet to Fremont Lake itself. Trail Lake Road—A short bit east of Dubois, Trail Lake Road heads south into the Wind River Mountains and past three jewel-like lakes. Look for petroglyphs on the large boulders along the way. At the end of the road, hike 3 miles to stunning Lake Louise.

— Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide

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Hiking from the top of the Aerial Tram.

Bob Woodall

Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center

Bighorn sheep take center stage at Wyoming’s 2014 Destination/Attraction of the year, right in downtown Dubois, Wyoming.

ew mammals can match the sure-footedness of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep. Powerful and nimble, even at 250 to 300 pounds, they tread crags and rocky trails like no other creatures on earth. But the survival of these magnificent animals is threatened all over the West. Fortunately, their beauty and tenuous existence are showcased graphically and elegantly in the National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center, right in downtown Dubois, Wyoming. Wyoming’s winner of the 2014 Destination/Attraction of the Year, the center’s appeal is well founded. Stunning, full-size bighorns – set amidst their natural flora and geology – lend a breathtaking realism to the center’s displays. Photos and hands-on exhibits draw visitors into the majestic habitat of these magnificent animals. Other dioramas showcase grizzly bears, marmots, wolves, mountain lions, and a host of smaller intriguing wildlife. Set aside some time for the kids to take in the center’s engaging interactive displays and information. Celebrating its 21st year, the center now provides young tech-savvy naturalists a way to lead the grownups around. A very cool printable PDF self-guided tour can be accessed from the center’s website. Or the neophyte guide can direct the vehicle and crew along a colorful

Stunning, full-size bighorns – set amidst their natural flora and geology – lend a breathtaking realism to the center’s displays. Dioramas showcase grizzly bears, marmots, wolves, mountain lions, and a host of smaller intriguing wildlife. seven-mile stretch of Bighorn geography just outside of town. Simply point that mobile device to www.bighorn.org. Dubois, of course, hosts this interpretive center for good reason: nearby Whiskey Mountain is home to the largest wintering herd (around 900) of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep in North America. During winter, the staff offers fully guided tours into the snowy landscape. The center’s website also accesses a biologist’s journal describing the sheep’s slow recovery from the population “crash” of 1990. Web links to recent informative articles in local and national publications (The New York Times, for example) are also provided. Located right on the main street of Dubois (Wyoming Highway 287/26), the National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center is open daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. during the summer. Admission fees are $2.50 for adults, 75¢ for children, or $6 for families. For more information, call toll free (888) 2092795, go on-line at www.bighorn.org, or e-mail the center at info@bighorn.org. — Mike Calabrese

Commitment to Wild Sheep since 1993 2014 Destination/Attraction of the Year from the Wyoming Office of Tourism

Summer Hours: 9 a.m. — 6 p.m. 907 W. Ramshorn Street Dubois, Wyoming 307-455-3429 www.bighorn.org email : info@bighorn.org

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WYOMING

Photo 1958.0390.001 courtesy Jackson Hole Historical Society

JACKSON

In 1914, Jackson’s birthdate, Lavern Winegar, Hazel Knutsen Francis, and Pearl Curtis Stahn were photographed on West Deloney Avenue in front of where the Jackson Hole Playhouse now stands.

ven by the standard of the American West, settlers E came late to Jackson Hole. The valley was (and still is) high, dry, cold, and far removed from the trails and rails that opened most of the rest of the western United States decades earlier.

Jackson’s stagecoach ride, carrying passengers for more than 50 years.

The first three pioneers to make the valley their yearround home arrived in 1884, and it was not until 1889 that the first substantial group—five families totaling only about 20 individuals—arrived. This explains why Jackson, which has grown to be Jackson Hole’s largest community, is only this year celebrating its Centennial. Once begun, however, Jackson moved forward steadily. One of the earliest photographs of the town, taken in 1907, shows a couple of dozen widely scattered structures. A couple of those buildings still stand. Deloney’s General Merchandise opened in a log structure in 1898. That building was replaced in 1906 with one made of locally produced brick. Located at the corner of Deloney

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and Glenwood streets, a cutout in the plaster now covering the building shows a section of that brick wall. The other building, The Clubhouse, sits on Center Street facing the east side of the Jackson Town Square. Built of logs and later framed in and plastered, The Clubhouse is now flanked by newer structures, although its distinctive roofline and extra-thick walls are easily recognized. The Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum offers guided walking tours to these and other historic town buildings and sites each Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday throughout the summer. Tours begin at 10:30 a.m. and last about an hour. Individuals and small groups simply meet at the center of the Town Square. Call ahead to (307)733-2414 to make arrangements for groups of 10 or larger. Later photographs showing more and more buildings and census tallies prove Jackson grew quickly. In 1900, the census counted just 59 people in Jackson and the other small communities in the valley. In 1910, the population had more than tripled, to 264. (In 2012 it reached 9,838.) Jackson looked forward from its earliest days. Telecommuters today are not as cutting-edge as they believe. Telephone lines into Jackson were built in the first decade of the 20th century and it was not long after that one town booster remarked “suppose a New Yorker wishes to spend his summer (in) his camp among the pines. He need have not fear about being able to send telegrams and cablegrams,” to remain abreast of his business in the city. It wasn’t long before residents began to formally organize their small community. In 1894 Margaret “Maggie” Simpson became the second postmistress of the settlement. Operating the post office out of her home she chose to name it Jackson. In 1900, Maggie took out a homestead patent on 40 nearby acres. She soon sold 10 acres to Grace Miller, wife of Robert Miller—founder of the first bank in town. Between 1901 and 1905, Maggie and “Mrs. Miller” planned and platted the original town site. In 1914, perhaps with a nudge or two from his wife, Robert Miller and the board and employees of his bank spearheaded a plebiscite to establish Jackson as

Bob Woodall photos

By Joseph Piccoli

an incorporated town. On August 21, 1914, the vote was taken, passing by a solid majority of 48 yea, 21 nay. An election for town officers—a mayor and four councilmen—followed in November. Early ordinances addressed some of the problems facing the new town. One required all pigs and pigpens be moved beyond town limits within 10 days. Another directed that residents clean up piles of rubbish and manure on their properties and remove large stones from any adjacent streets. A third decreed Jackson to be a dry town and fixed a fine of $25 or up to 90 days in jail for violations. One of the new laws indicating Jackson’s status as a haven for eccentrics and unconventional personalities has a long history. It banned anyone going about “in a state of nudity or in any dress not belonging to his or her sex.” But the first electeds were lackadaisical at best. Frequently council meetings were cancelled due to lack of a quorum. Many records from the early years of town government are lost or were never kept. Taxes were established, but not collected. The council also had little luck enforcing many of the new ordinances. Minutes of council meetings show one resident petitioning the council for three additional weeks to remove his hogs—more than a month after the original deadline had passed. And one old-timer re- The colorful dramatization of the gunslinging Old West delights visitors to Jackson’s Town Square called bootleg liquor in Jackson of a better quality “than nightly (except Sundays). This song and dance rendition is the nation’s longest running gunfight extravaganza. you can buy today from the factory.” Perhaps it should not be surprising then that in 1920 voters seated an started actually collecting taxes, they got the streets cleaned and began maintaining them, and they applied for and received title from the federal entirely new government, the first of its kind in the nation in fact, an allgovernment for land that had for years been used as the town’s cemetery. woman council. As one observer wrote, “clearly the early town fathers had nowhere near They did such good work that they were all reelected for a second term. For information about centennial events and celebrations, visit www.jackthe…tenacity that the town mothers had. After five years of increasing fecksonholecentennial.com. less government, the women took control of town politics.” The women, with Grace Miller as mayor, increased the tax base and Joseph Piccoli is a writer and editor living in Jackson Hole.

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Snow King

JACKSON, WYOMING

By Joseph Piccoli

King Mountain Resort celebrated its S75thnowanniversary last winter, but the ski area

locals fondly refer to as the Town Hill isn’t acting like a septuagenarian.

Snow King presents an idyllic backdrop to Jackson as Flat Creek meanders on the town outskirts.

The Ferrins Trail contours up the north face of Cache Creek and links to the summit of Snow King. Photos courtesy Snow King Mountain Reosrt (1,3); Wade McKoy (2,4,5)

In fact, it’s probably not accurate anymore to refer to Snow King as just a ski area. These days the lifts don’t stop running simply because the snow has melted. With the slopes now green, let’s turn our attention first to what you can do on a summer’s day at the King. Perhaps its most popular summer attraction is the Alpine Slide. You control the speed of a wheeled sled and gravity does all the work as you roll down a special track through conifers and wildflowers with views of the Teton mountain range and the National Elk Refuge in the distance. Other activities available at Snow King include a scenic chairlift ride on the Summit lift that carries you 1,571 feet to the top of the mountain. There you will enjoy one of the most panoramic vistas of the Tetons to be found, as well as access to a selfguided nature trail and many miles of hiking trails. But don’t be surprised if you find yourself sharing those trails with equestrians and mountain bikers. If you want, you can easily slip your feet into stirrups or climb on a bike and join those folks. Jackson Hole Trail Rides has stables right at the foot of the mountain and your ticket to ride can be found at the booth at the Summit lift’s base. Bike rentals, trail maps, and advice are available at Hoback Sports in the adjacent Snow King Hotel. There is also a miniature golf course, a bungee trampoline, and—for the really adventurous— paragliding. For a tandem flight with an experienced pilot off the top of Snow King, contact Scott Harris of Jackson Hole Paragliding at (307) 690-8726. The Alpine Slide, Summit scenic chairlift ride, horseback riding, bungee trampoline and miniature golf are open seven days a week, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., weather permitting. For more information call (307) 734-3194, or visit www.snowkingmountain.com. Only six blocks from the landmark Jackson Town Square, at 330 E. Snow King Ave., it’s easy to get to all the fun. And you don’t have to venture up the mountain to find enjoyment either. Summer 2014 will mark the third season of JacksonHoleLive! This concert series brings free–for everyone–outdoor music to the base of the mountain all summer long. For information, check www.jacksonholelivemusic.com. Also energizing the base area this summer will be the People’s Market and a new season of BikeIn Movies. The People’s Market is a farmer’s market-style outdoor food enterprise featuring locally-grown produce as well as baked goods, meat and dairy products, and crafts from some two dozen area vendors. The People’s Market pitches its tents near the base of the Cougar chairlift every Wednesday, 4-7 p.m., from mid-June to

Bungee trampoline, JacksonHoleLive! concert

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Next generation climbers, Teton Boulder Park

mid-September. And during the month of August, catch a free movie after the Farmer’s Market closes by rolling over to the adjacent Snow King Ball Park at dusk for a Bike-In Movie. It’s like a drive-in, minus the cars. For details on both the People’s Market and Bike-In Movies, visit www.jhpeoplesmarket.org. Also at the base of Snow King is the Teton Boulder Park, featuring two artificial climbing boulders, one for kids and one which is said to be the largest artificial climbing rock in the world. The big one includes realistic cracks and flakes and both are covered with artificial climbing holds. In the warm months of summer it isn’t uncommon to see both covered with climbers as well. Next to the climbing boulders is a circle of stones that mimics a feature built by Native Americans on The Enclosure, a 13,000-foot subsidiary summit of the Grand Teton. Created with 21 slabs of granite, the Enclosure at the Boulder Park surrounds a stone carved with the words, “In honor of those we have lost to the mountains.” Next to the Enclosure is a series of carved steel panels delineating the history of climbing in the Tetons. The Snow King Hotel is the lodging closest to the resort, just steps from the Alpine Slide, miniature golf, and bungee trampoline. Just a few minutes more brings you to the horseback riding, sce-

nic chairlift, the People’s Market and the Teton Boulder Park. The hotel’s 200+ rooms, along with the lobby, restaurant, bar, and pool were fully renovated in 2013. As if all this were not enough, Ryan Stanley, Snow King Mountain’s general manager, says much more is coming, including an aerial adventure course built tree-to-tree in the forest near the top of the Alpine Slide that will feature rope bridges and short zip lines. Other zip lines, including one going all the way from the summit of Snow King to the base are on the drawing board. Also planned are downhill mountain biking trails, a “mountain coaster” (think the mother of all amusement park roller coasters) and a gondola to replace the Summit chairlift. The big project this summer will be a $3 million snowmaking and lighting project. Stanley says the new snowmaking will double current capacity, and the new lighting will extend coverage for night skiing and be brighter and far more energyefficient than the current system. Better snowmaking will allow Snow King to improve and expand its terrain park, attract ski racers for both training and racing, and extend the season for recreational skiers, Stanley says. Joseph Piccoli is a writer and editor living in Jackson Hole. Hiking up Snow King, a daily ritual for many townsfolk.

Summer at Snow King

Alpine Slide Scenic Lift Rides Horseback Rides Miniature Golf Hiking & Biking Paragliding

www.snowkingmountain.com w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m

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TETON VILLAGE

WYOMING

A year-round adventure outpost highly prized for its winter attractions, the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort in Teton Village, Wyoming, offers an equally impressive array of summer activities.

Topping the list this summer is the new Aerial Adventure Course. That’s in addition to downhill mountain biking, tandem paragliding, horseback riding, guided rock climbing, kids’ programs, outdoor concerts and more – all just one mile from Grand Teton National Park.

The Village Its slogan, “Come for the day, stay for the night!” hints at Teton Village’s irresistible appeal. The Village Commons, a stone amphitheater in the heart of Teton Village offering shade and seating for hot summer days, a kids’ playground, and a cooling popThe tram glides past the deck at Nick Wilson’s and over the green lawns and babbling brooks of Teton Village, beginning its 10-minute, 4,139-verticle-foot journey to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain. jet fountain, might be just the place to relax. The gathering spot is also home to Concerts On The Commons, a summer live-music series featuring national touring artists every Sunday at 5 p.m. in July and August. Sidewalks head off in every direction from the village center, leading to a variety of dining, shopping, lodging, and spa options. The pathways often point to the perfect ending of a perfect day in the mountains. Enjoy a glass of wine and sushi on the patio at the Four Seasons Resort, or a well-deserved beer and tavern-style fare at Nick Wilson’s. Looking for an elegant evening at one of the best restaurants in Jackson Hole? Head up the Bridger Gondola for an unforgettable culinary experience high atop Jackson Hole at Couloir Restaurant. The Teton Village retail community comprises many locally owned specialty shops. Rodeo, a women’s clothing boutique, will no doubt please the ladies, while the guys might linger at Wool and Whiskey’s fully stocked whiskey bar and men’s mercantile. The local-artisan boutique MADE, a specialty handmade-goods shop located inside Hotel Terra, has achieved something of a cult following. Teton Village also boasts some of the best outdoor apparel and gear stores in the valley – Teton Village Sports, Jackson Hole Sports, Jackson Treehouse, and Pepi Stiegler Sports – each with its own personality and specialty brands. Before heading out to the Kids love playing in the pop-fountain on the Village Commons. day’s activities, pick up those last-minute items at the new Jackson Hole General Store located next to the Aerial Tram. Grab-and-go snacks, beer, souvenirs, and a full-service coffee bar and ice cream counter mark this convenient enterprise.

Hiking The tram opens up a hiking experience unlike any other in the Jackson Hole area. Ascending 4,139 feet in just 9 minutes, the tram settles trav-

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Wade McKoy photos

Aerial Tram This is the ticket – to the top of the Tetons! Ride the famous 100-passenger Jackson Hole Aerial Tram from Teton Village to Rendezvous Mountain’s 10,450 summit and stand on top of the Teton Range. The tram whisks passengers a breathtaking 4,139 vertical feet for unbeatable 360degree views of the Tetons and nearby Grand Teton National Park below. During the stunning journey, passengers glide over diverse alpine terrain and sometimes glimpse bears, moose, eagles, mule deer and other valley wildlife. The summit accesses various hiking trails that allow hikers to explore Rendezvous Mountain and join the Teton Crest Trail, a favorite route into Grand Teton National Park. Those looking for more of an adrenaline rush can board tandem paragliding flights that launch from the tram summit and offer riders unparalleled valley views as well as the largest vertical drop in America. A new Family (pricing) Package for the Aerial Tram allows everyone to experience the million-dollar views at affordable prices.

Sail over tabletops, course around corners and then catch the Teewinot lift for a five-minute ride back to the top of the bike park.

Nature trails wind through the moraine fields below Cody Peak, a relatively easy hike – albeit in thin air – from the top of the tram.

elers at 10,450 feet amidst the high peaks of the Southern Tetons. From there hikers are free to explore a vast trail network connecting Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, Bridger-Teton National Forest, and Grand Teton National Park – all without the 4,139-foot trek to the top. The new Wildflower trail links the Lower Faces trails from the bottom of the mountain all the way up to Casper. Several ideally placed scenic-point benches allow the weary or the wonderstruck to soak in the wildflower-strewn views of the valley while comfortably seated. A shaded picnic table offers one of the best views this side of heaven. Two hours should do for this round trip. From the top of the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram hikers can wind through the spectacular Tensleep Bowl, traverse The Cirque, and descend the Headwall to end up at The Couloir Restaurant and The Deck for a beer or signature cocktail and a bite to eat. Because Jackson Hole Mountain Resort shares a boundary with Grand Teton National Park (GTNP), its visitors are ideally placed to experience an incredible natural environment. A detailed trail-guide book and topographical map are musts, though, for those planning on heading into GTNP. All backcountry camping requires a permit and park-approved bear canister, which can be obtained at park ranger stations or visitor centers.

Tandem Paragliding Flights A 20-minute tandem flight with Jackson Hole Paragliding might just be one of the more memorable ways to descend the mountain’s heights. Certified pilots who’ve logged hundreds of hours flying in the Tetons are well equipped to introduce first-timers to the unique experience of tandem paragliding. For information or to make a reservation, call (307) 739-2626.

Mountain Biking In its constant pursuit to expand recreational opportunities, the resort has been hard at work with Gravity Logic mapping, designing, and building the best mountain-bike destination in the Tetons. Options abound for every skill level, among them novice trails for the uninitiated and eye-opening advanced trails and jump tracks. Sail over tabletops, course around corners and then catch the Teewinot lift for a five-minute ride back to the top. Join in the fun of Friday-night evening rides, from 5-7 p.m., complete with discounted lift tickets, a DJ spinning tunes, and happy-hour specials at the Tin Can Cantina. For mountain bike touring – no ticket required – ride seven miles of single-track and traverse the entire lower mountain, from Après Vous to the Hobacks. This route, rolling and winding along incredible ski terrain, was designed and built by year-round resort workers who really know this mountain:

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skiers. Expert cyclists might decide to climb the rocky dirt road to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain and ride the tram back down free of charge (downhill riding is prohibited above the top of the Gondola). Ask a resort employee for a trail map. Bring your own bike or rent one from Jackson Hole Sports or Teton Village Sports, where you can also purchase lift tickets or inquire about bike lessons and bike-specific camps for children, like the Techtonics Camp, an enterprise combining fun activities and video and photography learning. For pathway cruisers, check out the bike rentals at TVS, Pepi Stiegler Sports, and Jackson Treehouse.

Aerial Adventure Course (New) The newest draw this summer is an elevated obstacle course, opening in mid-June. Great for kids and adults alike, the Aerial Adventure Course boasts a network of zip lines, balance beams, cargo nets, and other challenges – all suspended 25 feet above the ground. The course offers a range of features and varying levels of difficulty, allowing participants to stretch their limits, both physical and mental, while harnessed and safely on belay. The Aerial Adventure course costs $25 for roughly a one-hour experience, or can be purchased as part of the resort’s Grand Adventure Pass. Keep your eye out for the future installation of the 50-foot Drop Tower.

Grand Adventure Pass The Grand Adventure Pass, also new this summer, allows visitors and families to explore the many aspects of the Grand Adventure Park in Teton Village. Adults receive an Aerial Tram ride, ticket to the new Aerial Adventure course, and $15 lunch card. Children receive all that plus two activity tickets good for the bungee trampoline and the climbing wall. The pass offers an economical way for visitors to explore the many exciting activities and dining options in Teton Village.

Bungee Trampoline You might be surprised at how high you can jump (24 feet–safely!) and the tricks you can pull off with this fun-packed summer activity. Kids and adults enthusiastically flock to this new recreational activity.

Climbing Wall Artificial climbing walls are springing up everywhere now. But Teton Village got into the act over a decade ago with its 25-foot freestanding climbing wall. Go “on belay” with the climbing-wall attendant and scale the artificial rock positioned near the base of the Clock Tower. Activity tickets for the bungee trampoline and climbing wall are available at the Bridger Activities Center continued next page and Jackson Hole Sports. 2 0 1 4 T E TO N & Y E L L OW STO N E A DV E N T U R E G U I D E

On-mountain Dining Bridger Gondola & the Couloir Restaurant

Fireworks top off the Concert On The Commons July 4th celebration.

Trail Rides Saddle up and experience a trail ride at the corrals on the east side of the village. Head out on hourly trail rides astride a real working horse in the company of a real cowboy wrangler.

Disc Golf Play ten holes of Frisbee golf on the free course near the base of the resort. Bring your own discs or buy them at Jackson Hole Sports.

Mountain Sports School A variety of programs through the year-round Mountain Sports School provide lots of options for families with kids. The Kids’ Ranch Day Camp, the Kids’ Adventure Guides, and the 10-Speed Bike Camp are some highlights for this summer.

Alive@Five The entire family will enjoy these free weekly programs on the Village Commons, from 5–5:45 p.m. On Tuesdays a biologist from the Teton Science School conducts an engaging and interactive educational presentation on the wildlife and ecology of Jackson Hole. On Wednesdays view the Teton Raptor Center’s live hawks, falcons, eagles, and owls while learning about the unique adaptations that make raptors the unparalleled hunters of the sky. View birds of prey both at arm’s length and flying free overhead. On Thursdays listen to a rotating music schedule featuring local musicians of varying styles and genres.

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Enjoy an unforgettable culinary experience at 9,095’ atop the Bridger Gondola at Couloir Restaurant. Recognized by Food and Wine Magazine (Feb 2008), Men’s Health Magazine as the “Manliest Restaurant,” and named on the Condé Nast Hot Tables List (2008) for its exceptional hospitality, Couloir offers a delectable seasonal menu featuring American cuisine with Rocky Mountain roots. Executive Chef Wes Hamilton adheres to a sustainable policy, the majority of his ingredients procured from a 250-mile radius to ensure fresh natural flavors, and superior products sourced from local purveyors. Open June 22 to Sept. 12, Sunday - Friday at 4:30 p.m. Closed Saturdays and during private events.

The Deck Enjoy happy-hour specials like 2-for-1 margaritas, mojitos, draft beers, and wine by the glass. Corbet’s Couloir, the expansive Jackson Hole Valley and Snake River can all be taken in from The Deck. It’s the perfect spot to unwind after an adventure-filled day. Offering a creative summer menu of appetizers and shared plates from the Al Fresco kitchen, the Deck is open from June 22 to Sept. 12, Sunday - Friday at 4:30 p.m. Closed Saturdays and private events.

Top of the World Waffles Ride the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram to the summit and enter Corbet’s Cabin at “The Top of the World” for a lasting vacation memory – sweet or savory waffles made on the spot. The Cabin also serves up snow cones, hot drinks, refreshing cold beverages, beer, grab-n-go-items, and tram souvenirs. Relax and enjoy your snacks on the outdoor deck while soaking up amazing valley views.

Tin Can Cantina At the base of the gondola in a small plaza with tables, the Tin Can Cantina serves real homemade tacos. Good eating and easy on the pocketbook. Perhaps “Come for the days, stay for the nights” would better sum up the appeal of this season’s Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide

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Photo by Patrick Nelson, courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

Sleep in a Yurt The modern Rock Springs yurt houses a wood-burning stove, eight bunk beds, a kitchen, and a large dining table. Hike up a wooded, 2.5-mile trail from Teton Village into the mountains and enjoy the scenery on an overnight with friends. Expert guides prepare the food, stoke the stove, and even do the dishes.

WYOMING

Wade McKoy photos

GRAND TARGHEE

igh on the western slope of the Teton H Range, hidden among forests of spruce,

fir, pine, and aspen, sits Grand Targhee, a complete, year-round resort.

Over 2,600 acres of terrain perfect for hiking, biking, horseback riding, music festivals, and, of course, skiing lie upon three mountain peaks that reach skyward from a quaint western village. And from the tops of those peaks, the visitor can easily imagine reaching out and touching the magnificent Tetons.

Scenic Chairlift Ride A ride up the Dreamcatcher chairlift to the 9,862-foot summit of Fred’s Mountain guarantees the best Teton views possible—and without ever breaking a sweat. The lift can jump-start a spectacular high-altitude hike or access relaxing, inspiring sightseeing. Take a bike up the lift, too, as long as it’s of the downhill variety. Mountain Habitat, Targhee’s biking go-to shop located at the base of the mountain during the summer months, has everything needed to enjoy the downhill and cross-country bike trails.

Mountain Bike Explore 46 miles of multi-use trails, including a new flow park, ideal for perfecting downhill and cross-country bike skills. The Targhee Bike Park offers every style of riding for every level of mountain biker: gentle banked cruisers, tight and twisty single-track, cross country, and gnarly, rock-strewn downhill with dropoffs. Lift-assisted rides start with Sidewinder to Lightning Ridge and Loop Trails, then finish

with Colter’s Escape for the longest descent on the mountain. The resort hosts its own downhill and Strava races and closes out the summer with the annual Wydaho Rendezvous Bike Festival. Roadies will love riding the 12-mile paved road from Driggs up to the resort, where they’ll have breathtaking views of the Grand Tetons. Bike rentals, sales, and service are available at Mountain Habitat at the resort and also at Habitat in downtown Driggs.

Photo courtesy Grand Targhee Resort

The slopes above Grand Targhee are home to wildflower-strewn trails perfect for horseback riding, hiking, and bicycling.

Targhee’s village plaza, a quiet place to rest, play, or dine.

Hike Hikes at the resort vary in length and wind through wildflower-laced meadows, aspen forests, and may even offer a glimpse of the local wildlife. Hikes range from a half-mile to 3.2 miles and of course ensure stunning views of the Grand Tetons. Stop at the Nature Center to learn about the local ecology and wildlife, and sign up for a guided hike.

Horseback Trail Rides A good horse is still a prized western companion, and the best mode of travel for a long tour through these mountains. The local cowboys at Crooked Canyon Stables can saddle up a good steed and show you the mountains the old-fashioned way. Aside from walking, riding a horse is the only way to tour the Jedediah Smith Wilderness Area within the Teton Range

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and horses can take you a lot farther than your own two feet.

New Trails Ten new miles of trails were added this past summer, and the resort is gearing up to add 10 more miles this summer. New trails included downhill and cross-country trails, and new features to the skills park, notably, a wall ride. Grand Targhee Resort was recently voted the #1 Mountain Bike Park in the Northwest area by Mtbikesparks.com. For updates on Trail Volunteer Days, special events, and bike camps, visit www.grandtarghee.com.

Climbing Wall Experience the fun and challenge of sport climbing right at the base area. The resort’s experienced staff will help coach recreationists to

the top of its specially designed climbing wall. Fun for all ages and great for learning, the outdoor climbing wall offers six different routes. Good for first-time climbers, children, and those with experience alike. Each climb includes instructor, harness, and belay.

Disc Golf The 18-hole Grand Targhee Disc Golf Course plays through rolling aspen meadows at 8,000 feet! Frisbees seem to float further at high-alpine elevation, promising drives that are sometimes over 550 feet. Long holes, short holes, and everything in between, this is not your standard wideopen area. The course favors players with an arsenal of throwing techniques, from standard backhand and forehand to tomahawks. Beginners and experts alike will be challenged!

Naturalist Programs That Rocky Mountain journey can start at the resort’s Naturalist Center, located just off the plaza, or at its new Summer Summit Nature Center at the top of Dreamcatcher. Both sites offer a feel for the critters and plants found there. From moose to pine martin, lupine to forget-me-not, the center provides a feast for the eyes, ears, and nose on nature’s purest assemblage in the Lower 48.

Dining No one goes hungry at Grand Targhee, no matter what time it is. The Branding Iron Grill, the resort’s signature dining experience, offers a menu inspired by fresh and locally farmed ingredients. The Trap Bar, an après-ski institution for over 40 years, serves pub fare and offers more than 12 beers on tap, including brews from the local breweries. All winter long, this is the stop after a day

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on the slopes. Live music most Fridays and Saturdays is only one reason to drop in and kick up the heels. Another? The Trap’s eight flat-screen TVs– perfect for catching any sporting event.

10th Annual Targhee Music Fest From Friday to Sunday, July 18-20, an eclectic gathering of bands perform in a natural, outdoor amphitheater adjacent to Targhee’s base-area plaza. Catch performances by Tedeschi Trucks Band, Grace Potter and the Royal Southern Brotherhood, The Wood Brothers, Charlie Hunter & Scott Amendola, Amy Helm & the Handsome Strangers, Big Head Todd & the Monsters, The Hardworking Americans, Chris Robinson Brotherhood, Nicki Bluhm & the Gramblers, Trigger Hippy, Sister Sparrow and the Dirty Birds, The Hooligans, and more. Food, games, and onsite activities are all a part of this summer music festival. Tent camping on-site is available during the festival weekend. Take advantage of the free shuttle service and leave your vehicle in Driggs.

27th Annual Targhee Bluegrass Festival From Friday to Sunday, August 8-10, this summer’s lineup at the Grand Targhee Bluegrass Festival includes the Sam Bush Band, Nickel Creek, Greensky Bluegrass, Town Mountain, Jayme

Nocturnals performing at the 2010 Music Fest.

Stone’s Lomax Project, Tim O’Brien & Darrel Scott, Haas Kowert Tice, New Reeltime Travelers, David Bromberg, Jeff Austin with Danny Barnes, Eric Thorin and Ross Martin, Leftover Salmon with Bill Payne, Chris Jones & Night Drivers, The Travelin’ McCoury’s, and more. Picker and fiddlers can even come early for the 9th Annual Targhee Music Camp, August 4-7, to learn from some of the best acoustic musicians and teachers out there.

Lodging Three western-style lodges are located in the high alpine village, just steps from the lifts and trails. A wide range of condominiums, vacation homes, and town homes are available a short distance from the resort. — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide

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TETON VALLEY

IDAHO

wilderness below the Tetons, the Jedediah Smith area, is only minutes from Driggs and a sparkling lure for hikers of all ages. Adventurous trekkers employ the trails near Targhee Resort to access and cross over into Grand Teton National Park. The go-to site for leg-stretching info belongs to Teton Valley Trails and Pathways: tvtap.org. Maps for cycling, bike lanes, hiking trails and, just in case, a Nordic map to help those who decide to winter over in this play land can all be accessed on the site. Anglers can ply the valley’s Blue Ribbon water, the Teton River. Given the basin’s proximity to the prized South Fork of the Snake River or the iconic Henry’s Fork River, fly-fishing enthusiasts might struggle helplessly to leave Teton Valley. And the local chamber of commerce has also made sure that its calendar is packed with fun right in the towns themselves. Teton Valley’s Summer Festival slated for the week of July 4th, brims with activities. The annual 4th of July celebration, for instance, welcomes summer visitors in grand style: Tetonia hosts Mountain biking in the Big Hole Mountains, rider Lynsey Dyer by Mike Calabrese a rodeo, Driggs launches its annual Hot eton Valley, Idaho, the breathtakingly hiking, trekking, biking, camping, horseback rid- Air Balloon Festival, and Victor lights up Indeing, socializing, and concert-going barely tap the pendence Day with a parade and fireworks. beautiful basin just over the hill from Jackson list of what every Teton Valley resident—and Chamber doings are available online at tetonvalHole, is replete with recreational, cultural, and pretty much every Jackson Hole outdoor enthusi- lychamber.com. ast—takes advantage of in summer. resort opportunities. The valley’s charming towns of Victor, Color-suffused sunrises and sunsets mark Driggs, and Tetonia, Idaho, lie just to the summer days on “the quiet side of the Tetons.” But don’t let the valley’s relaxed tempo fool you: west of 8,429-foot Teton Pass. True, one this outdoor playground almost seems designed of the only traffic lights in the entire valley by a providential band of recreationists. Angling, is right there in the middle of Victor. But a stoplight couldn’t be more helpfully placed. This well-known crossroads affords travelers the choice of routes to Jackson Hole, the expanse of Teton Basin and its mountain country, or a backdoor into Yellowstone National Park. Travelers heading on to Driggs sometimes nearly run off the road when the Tetons loom into view on the right (the east side of the valley). Just about the time drivers regain their composure, another certifiable landmark pops up, The Spud Drive-in Theater. This enterprise is almost a national The Spud Drive-in movie mascot, Old Murphy treasure. Folks looking for a little romance, or famMusic is, naturally, a mainstay of summer ilies yearning for a movie and an evening under a pretty much everywhere. And nowhere more so billion stars, shouldn’t pass up the Spud. A Spud than in Teton Valley. The hugely popular Music on “Gladysburger,” a stunning sunset, and a movie Main Street concert series draws national top-tier add up to a perfect summer evening under the performers and attracts audience members from Tetons. The Spud’s efforts to keep it up and run- the entire Greater Yellowstone Region. Seven ning are further ensuring its place in movie-going headliner acts take to the stage in the classic history. Fundraising to make the switch from film small-town Victor City Park from June 26 through to digital projection equipment has created a August 14. This year’s lineup includes the Young cause célébre for this regional landmark. After a Dubliners, James McMurtry, Paper Bird, and noday of chasing fun in the basin’s topography, set- table regional acts. Plan on hitting one of these tling in for a movie, a brew, and big-screen enterfestivals by going online at tetonvalleyfoundatainment seals the deal for locals and visitors tion.org. alike. Obviously, “quiet” in Teton Valley has taken on Of course, deciding on how to burn those life- a whole new meaning. And travelers and regional nourishing calories during daylight presents its adventure seekers are taking advantage of it. own challenges. The Teton Range on the east and Mike Calabrese is a musician, editor, and writer the Big Hole Mountains on the valley’s west side living in Jackson Hole. (home to some of the region’s best single-track mountain biking) just beg for exploring. The

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Photos: Wade McKoy

dubois

WYOMING

Bob Woodall photos

Ross Lake, one of many stunning aquatic bodies that dot the Wind River Mountain Range.

By Mike Calabrese

et in the upper Wind River valley, the gemlike town of Dubois, Wyoming, is framed by Butch Cassidy’s haunting Dubois Badlands to the east, the stark Absaroka Range to the north, and the majestic Wind River Range to the south.

And it’s only an hour’s scenic drive from Jackson (to the west) and Riverton (to the east). A stroll down the main street, most of it still appointed with boardwalks, yields a taste of Wyoming’s Old West flavor. Log buildings, saloons, quaint shops, and even tipis welcome the travel-weary visitor. A vibrant arts community nourishes visitors and residents alike. No wonder that American Cowboy Magazine recently named Dubois one of the “Best Rural Towns in the West.” The nearby Wind River Range, revered by Native Americans for years before the white man’s arrival, is replete with colorful history and wildlife. Shoshone and Sheepeater Indians traveled and hunted throughout this range, which borders the 2.2-million-acre Wind River Reservation, today home to Northern Arapaho and Eastern Shoshone tribes. Backpackers and hikers to the Winds can choose from nearly 800 miles of trails lacing the range’s vast, stunning beauty. Over 150 glaciers work the Winds, beckoning hikers and climbers

alike. The Winds are studded with lakes and creeks, themselves teeming with rainbow, cutthroat, golden, brook, German brown, and Mackinaw trout. Anglers should come well supplied and ready to reel. And much of the wildlife that Yellowstone visitors can spy also roams the Winds. The park itself is a mere 55 miles distant. A layover in Dubois for those heading Western flair always marks parades in Dubois. west also provides travelers with a bracing early downtown Dubois, provides an awe-inspiring morning view of the Tetons by way of stunning venue for the country’s most impressive display Togwotee Pass. Keep the camera at hand every- of these noble creatures. Dubois is not some sleepy little Wyoming where in Dubois country. One of the world’s most magnificent big town scrambling for tourists. Dubois is that little game animals, the Rocky Mountain bighorn diamond doorway into the historic past and the sheep, is showcased in the Dubois area, both in- region’s endlessly picturesque outdoors. Want to know more? On the Web at doors and outdoors. The Whiskey Mountain www.duboiswyoming.org or call 307-455-2556. Wildlife Habitat Area, just minutes from town, is home to North America’s largest wintering herd Mike Calabrese is a musician, editor, and of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep. And the Na- writer living in Jackson Hole. tional Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center, in

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cody

A mural depicting Cody’s Western heritage adorns the side of a downtown building.

Photos: Bob Woodall

Western personality colors Cody’s mainstreet.

WYOMING

The Wapiti Valley highway winds along the Shoshone River’s North Fork.

Nightly shootouts next to Buffalo Bill’s Irma Hotel dramatize the Old West.

by Mike Calabrese

ody, Wyoming, has a lot to live up to. Barely an hour from the C nation’s foremost national park, the town and its namesake, the nearly mythic Colonel William F. (Buffalo Bill) Cody, are central to the great American West’s history.

But its billing as a “get after it community” might just be Cody’s greatest asset. A visit to this living museum of the Old and New West leaves little doubt about the town’s place in the pantheon of mountain-country treasures. Cody lies at the hub of many breathtaking roadways. Arriving at, traveling around, or leaving the town affords visitors journeys into scenery unsurpassed anywhere. For starters: The Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway courses alongside the Shoshone River’s north fork, through the Wapiti (a Native American word for elk) Valley and leads to Yellowstone National Park. Another, The Chief Joseph Scenic Highway, besides recalling one of the most heartbreaking events in U.S. history, winds through the Clark’s Fork region, past Sunlight Basin and to the top of Dead Indian Pass. Neither the area’s history nor the lay of the land can be ignored here. One byway, the Beartooth All-American Road, is not for the faint of heart. Its crest at 10,947 feet, some have

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called it “the most beautiful highway in America.” The vistas here are unequalled and worth their weight in gold – or camera equipment. And those are just for starters. Or “leavers,” if you can pull yourself away from the town itself. A stay in Cody is something like a dig for archaeologists, revealing layer upon layer of life’s insights and adventures. Anglers, bikers, river runners, hunters, hikers, horse enthusiasts––pretty much anyone drawn to the region’s rich landscape––will all uncover its treasures. The North and South forks of the Shoshone River, their waters roiling and teeming with life, play host to adventurers of all ages and abilities. On the river in kayaks or rafts, or casting a line from a bank or into a pool of cutthroat, water recreationists can put their energies to work sun up to sundown. Families looking for a quick hike into Buffalo Bill’s beloved country can trek pretty much right from the town environs on the Paul Stock Nature Trail. The pathway parallels the Shoshone River and affords views of Heart, Rattlesnake, Cedar, and Carter mountains. Cameras and kids will love this jaunt. Bikers, too, find quick easy access into trails, again right from town. Beck Lake Park, Red Lakes, and of course the Paul Stock Nature Trail, make crafting a colorful family outing a snap.

The West and horses, both symbols of the region’s landscape, go hand in hand and still tug at travelers to Cody country. Hundreds of miles of trails, full- or half-day rides, or full-blown multiday pack trips await those chomping at the bit to sit a horse. As with any notable community, Cody is proud of its cultural life. But Cody’s palette of offerings has the added benefit of geography and history. Its gem, the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, a constantly growing museum, showcases and celebrates the rich, epochal American West. The town’s complex of historical edifices gives life to Cody’s connection to one of America’s most prized eras, the settling of the West. Buffalo Bill’s Irma Hotel, nearby historic Old Town, Tecumseh’s Old West Village, the Dug Up Cody Museum, to name just a few, should easily keep kids and adults alike wondering about and celebrating history’s eye into the past. Music, too, is permanently etched into Cody’s living fabric. From cowboy music reviews to chuckwagon dinners with live music, the town bubbles with aural and visual delights. And, finally, there’s the Cody Nite Rodeo, with all its spectacle, drama, and just plain old family fun. Billed as the Rodeo Capitol of the World, a lodestone of Americana in the Wild West, Cody’s rodeo season runs nightly from June 1 through August 31. Sometimes, though, the simple things in life yield the greatest treasures. In a move the town’s founders would be proud of, the chamber of com-

Anglers, bikers, river runners, hunters, hikers, horse enthusiasts, no one drawn to the region’s rich landscape will be disappointed. The North and South forks of the Shoshone River, their waters roiling and teeming with life, play host to adventurers of all ages and abilities. merce has created an audio tour narrated by hometown boy and former U.S. Senator Alan Simpson. An audio clip and a PDF map, both downloadable from www.codychamber.org., allow visitors with their feet on the ground a relaxing view into Cody’s downtown history. Simpson’s folksy, heartfelt narration is the perfect companion for a rewarding walking tour into Cody’s history and its landmarks in town and on the horizons. Travelers with smartphones or access to a computer can log onto the Cody chamber’s website. Second to none, the site hosts a colorful compendium of photos, information, and opportunities for the visitor to Cody country. Just right for families planning the trip of a lifetime into the living West—old and new.

HE DIDN’T TAME THE WEST. HE MADE IT WILDER.

uffalo Bill celebrated the West and everything it stood for. Freedom. Adventure. Wide-open excitement. All of that lives on in the town he created, Cody, Wyoming. So saddle up your mountain bike, break out your hiking boots or get on board a whitewater river raft, it’s time for fun. Enjoy the nightly rodeo, live music, great dining and shopping. Just down the road, you’ll find all that’s wild in Yellowstone National Park. Yes folks, Cody is the wildest way into Yellowstone. Fly into Cody via DELTA and UNITED AIRLINES

Plan your trip at 1-800-393-2639 Or Yellowstonecountry.org

Mike Calabrese is a musician, editor, and writer living in Jackson Hole.

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CODY NITE RODEO

Original cowboy sport in the Rodeo Capitol of the World

Hanging on for an 8-second ride is the challenge for bronc and bull riders. Kids calf scramble provides great entertainment for both youngters and adults.

By Joy Ufford

It’s the most magical moment of the night, when a microphone crackles to life and the inspiring lyrics of our national anthem lift hearts around the arena as many sing along with the words that stir them deeply every time –“the land of the free and the home of the brave…” Rodeo is so thoroughly American now (despite roots in vaquero and ranching traditions of Mexico and old California) that it’s mandatory to see the star-spangled banner grasped in a rodeo queen’s hand as she gallops around the arena on her horse, both showing off for appreciative crowds. That’s what rodeo is all about, in a way – showing off. From snaky bulls to snorting broncs, born to buck and born to run; from a glittering rhinestone-studded belt here to some turquoise-fringed leather there. It’s about showing off in a good way, because there’s nothing wrong with living to kick higher, run faster, ride longer, rope quicker. For bull and bronc riders it’s about getting better scores, keeping a tighter handle on their ride. For the bulls and broncs, it’s about putting on a show trying to launch cowboys into outer space. When the sparkling gals tear around on their stretched-out horses, burning turns around three barrels set in sand, speed and style command attention. For the more taciturn ropers, it’s the quick elegance of a rope sailing through the air to catch a steer or calf in a heartbeat or two. Man, woman, or animal, it’s a great way to be alive. There’s nothing like it. Rodeo hasn’t changed much over the years,

Photos: Bob Woodall

ust puffs underfoot as cowgirls and cowboys, little to large, expectant crowds, and rodeo clowns shuffle their boots and silently clutch hats to chests. The setting sun sends shafts of warm light through the evening air and bathes everyone – rider, roper, racer – in a golden glow and sharpens the silhouettes of waiting horses and swaggering bulls.

except to get even better – better horses, meaner bulls, faster times, and more money. But one thing that never changes about rodeo is the contestants’ heartfelt desires to be good, even great, at something they love. The same can be said of their horses, whether buckin’ broncs or muscled mounts: that good feeling of doing a job well holds as true for the animals as it does for the men and women who ride them and for the rodeo clowns who risk life and limb to entertain the crowd. Cody has been called the “Rodeo Capital of the World,” and that isn’t stretching things. Talented cowboys and girls come from Peru, Australia, Canada – even Japan – to test their skills in Cody Stampede Park vying for big cash and big buckles. And to have an exciting show every night, the rough stock has to buck. Nightly events include bareback and saddle broncs, calf and team roping, steer wrestling, breakaway roping, barrel racing and bull riding, as well as a calf scramble for the kids. The youngsters are also treated to trick-roping demonstrations, meeting bullfighters, getting their face painted by rodeo clowns and more. All grandstand seating is covered and affords great views of the arena.

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Special events include Xtreme Bulls on June 30 at 7 p.m., when 40 of the best riders in the world shoot for the $45,000 purse as well as the Cody-Yellowstone Xtreme Bulls title. Then there’s the Buffalo Bill Cody Stampede, one of the country’s premiere Fourth of July rodeo celebrations. It’s been playing host to the top cowboys and cowgirls for more than 80 years and is one of nine stops on the Million Dollar Gold Tour Series. Often called "Cowboy Christmas" by the contestants, it’s one of rodeo's crown jewels. For top cowboys and cowgirls, this is the place to win big purses and ride the best stock. The Cody Stampede gets kicked off on June 30 with the Cody/Yellowstone Xtreme Bulls event. July 1, 2, & 3 rodeo performances are at 8:00 p.m., July 4th performance is at 5:00 p.m. Cody Nite Rodeo tickets are $20 for adults, $10 for kids 7-12. Cody Stampede tickets range from $20-$25. All can be reserved by calling 1800-207-0744, going online at codystampederodeo.com, or stopping at the Stampede Park on the west side of Cody. Joy Ufford lives in Bondurant, where she is a ranch hand and a writer for Pinedale’s Sublette Examiner.

BUFFALO BILL DAM Inspired engineering among the crags By Mike Calabrese

Bob Woodall

In the heart of Colonel William F. Cody’s old haunt, in fact right on some of Cody’s own land, one piece of Wyoming reflects nature and man at work together, albeit reluctantly. The Buffalo Bill Dam, fashioned from almost 83,000 cubic yards of concrete over five years, sits on the bed of the Shoshone River, in a canyon carved by nature over millions of years. The spectacular undertaking in the Shoshone Canyon claimed the lives of seven men during its construction, no small cost when compared to the pittance (by today’s standards) of the project’s final bill: $929,658. At 325 feet high and 200 feet across, the impressive structure was the tallest of its kind back in its early days, when it was known as the Shoshone Dam. Water flowed from the dam, providing lifeblood to farmers, ranchers, and residents in the region upon its completion in 1910. More than 93,000 acres of land in the surrounding Bighorn Basin depend on the liquid gold stored behind the dam for irrigation. In 1922, the completion of Perched atop the 353-foot-tall Buffalo Bill Dam, the visithe Shoshone Power Plant brought tor center affords a spectacular view. the dam to its full potential. of nature’s and man’s combined efforts. In 1946 the dam was renamed in honor of The visitor center is staffed and open from Buffalo Bill, who immediately knew the value of May to September, affording visitors jaw-dropthe West and perhaps its most coveted element: ping views of both the dam and the river. Best water. A visionary, Cody realized that canals of all, admission is free! A nonprofit enterprise, could never really supply enough water to effithe center also offers travelers the chance to ciently nurture settlement and growth in the regrab a cup of coffee while viewing exhibits, engion. He gave up on his own plan for an joying a movie in its theater, or even purchasing extensive canal system and redirected his efforts tickets to Cody’s Nite Rodeo. The Buffalo Bill and support to the construction of the dam. Dam is designated a National Civil Engineering While still reliably fulfilling its original purpose, the dam today draws thousands of ad- Landmark and is listed on the National Register mirers and recreationists as well. Buffalo Bill of Historic Places. For more information, visit the website at: State Park and the reservoir’s waters play host www.bbdvc.com. to anglers, boaters, campers, photographers, windsurfers, hikers, cyclists, and those simply Mike Calabrese is a musician, editor, and seeking a breathtaking place to view the results writer living in Jackson Hole.

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WYOMING

Stunning terrain lures hikers into in the Wind River Mountains above Pinedale.

About 180 years ago Pinedale began hosting conventions – of sorts.

Most notably, “The Green River Rendezvous” in 1833. This now iconic mountain man gathering was the first of six to convene just a few miles from present-day Pinedale. There was no chamber of commerce welcome wagon back then. And the convention center itself stretched along the Green River. That original, boisterous conclave clearly captured the attention of John Kirk Townsend, a scientist traveling with the Nathaniel Wyeth expedition of 1832: “There is … a great variety of personages amongst us, most of them calling themselves white men, French-Canadians, half-breeds, etc., their color nearly as dark, and their manners wholly as wild, as the Indians with whom they constantly associate. These people, with their obstreperous mirth, their whooping and howling, and quarrelling, added to the mounted Indians, who are constantly dashing into and through our camp, yelling like fiends, the barking and baying of savage wolf-dogs, and the incessant cracking of rifles and carbines, render our camp a perfect bedlam.” Things are a tad more civilized today, but the Old West lives on in the Upper Green River Valley. Previously traversed only by Indians, mountain men, and explorers, the region was eventually settled in the late 1800s by cattlemen taking advantage of its wide-open spaces. Ranching today remains an integral part of the economy, but visitors have now discovered the magical town and valley. Founded in 1904, Pinedale rests at an elevation of 7,175 feet in crisp mountain air. A few miles away, the magnificent Wind River Mountain Range towers over the settlement like a crown tipped with white gold and bejeweled by azure mountain lakes and emerald forests. This is a classic Western town, sitting 100 miles north of Rock Springs and a mere 80 scenic miles south of Jackson Hole. Western hospitality, abundant wildlife, and stunning scenery make it the perfect base camp for summer activities.

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The list of possibilities for adventurers is impressive. Sightseeing, shopping, exploring history, fishing, hiking, climbing, camping, horseback riding, hunting, boating, sailing, and biking are all on the Pinedale-region bucket list. And The Green River Rendezvous Pageant is a highthere’s plenty of light of the summer in the Pinedale area. space to do it in: 80 percent of the country surrounding Pinedale is public land, most of it protected by the Bridger-Teton National Forest and the Bureau of Land Management. In fact, Sublette County embraces two wilderness areas and vast tracks of open spaces. More than enough room to roam in and for discovering that special hideaway.

Shopping Before heading out in search of adventure, though, check with the chamber of commerce for more detailed regional information. If you’re not yet outfitted for that trip into the great outdoors, town shops can get you fixed up with everything from a cowboy hat to a climbing helmet. Even the local brewpub offers “fishing supplies.” Area artisans, of course, craft ample unique items. More than one visitor has proudly taken home a hand-hewn lodgepole log bed.

Water Water Everywhere Water, for those in the know, is the West’s lifeblood. Clear mountain creeks, rivers, and lakes are as ubiquitous as the antelope roaming the high

Photos: Fred Pflughoft (hikers in the Winds) ; PinedaleOnline.com (Green River Rendezvous)

PINEDALE

plains. Aquatic recreation ranges from fly-fishing to waterskiing. A good place to start is Fremont Lake, just four miles from Pinedale. Eleven miles long and 685 feet deep, it’s the second largest natural lake in Wyoming. Fremont sports several public boat launches, a marina, a lodge and restaurant, and numerous campsites. Fishing, waterskiing, sailing, canoeing, kayaking, and swimming are some of the ways to ply its waters. But Fremont is just one of 10 large glacial lakes strung like a jeweled necklace along the foothills of the Winds. Deeper in the mountains, over 1,300 lakes, many teeming with trout, dot the landscape. From one of these mountain lakes, a major artery of the West, the historic Green River, begins its journey. The main tributary of the Colorado River, the Green’s coveted waters sustain many a Western town. Not surprisingly, the Green is a favorite of anglers hoping to hook one of its six trout species. The upper stretches can be accessed from the road, but floating is a preferred access for vast reaches of isolated river. Many other streams emanating from the mountains also boast prime fishing waters.

Horseback Riding Pinedale is a natural place to “get Western.” Several nearby outfitters provide reliable horses and all the equipment needed for a day in the saddle. You might want to bring your own Stetson, though. Cowboys, even outfitter types, don’t part lightly with their hats.

For the buckaroo seeking more than a short trail ride, consider booking a week at one of the several area dude ranches. This is a classic way to dip into Old West Americana. Some working cattle ranches even offer the chance to cowpoke on a real cattle drive!

Hiking and Backpacking One of the best ways to experience the Winds is through their spectacular hiking trails. From dozens of trailheads, a vast network of paths reaches into these mountains. They range from easy strolls to arduous treks—some right into the heart of the wilderness. A great way to ease the strain of a 50-pound pack is to rent a llama. These friendly animals can haul up to 60 pounds of gear, freeing the backpacker to enjoy the journey without the burden.

Camping Over 20 developed public campgrounds serve the Pinedale area, most managed by either the BTNF or BLM. But away from these established campgrounds trekkers can pitch a tent most anywhere on public lands. Check regulations first, however; there are some restrictions—and cautions: this is bear country.

Climbing The Wind River Range offers all levels of rock climbing and mountaineering challenges, from simple bouldering to extended ascents of mountain peaks. Sitting astride the Continental Divide, the granitic rock of the Winds provides excellent climbing routes. Gannett Peak, in the northern

section, highlights some of nature’s ice-cold maneuvers. At 13,804 feet, it’s the highest point in Wyoming and shelters the largest glacier in the U.S. Rocky Mountains. The Cirque of the Towers at the southern end of the range is nationally, if not internationally, renowned for its sheer rock walls and scenic grandeur. Pingora, Lizard Head, Shark’s Nose, and Warbonnet are some of the challenging peaks to scale.

Mountain Biking The Pinedale region harbors hundreds of miles of backcountry roads and trails, affording mountain-biking enthusiasts plenty of options. Elevation ranges from 7,000 to well over 10,000 feet, the terrain varying from flat and gentle prairie to steep mountain slopes. And although biking is allowed on the BTNF and BLM lands, it’s prohibited in the Bridger Wilderness area.

Defining Your Own Vacation From exploring history to exploring the peaks, from mounting a trusty steed to mounting a modern mountain bike, Pinedale and the Upper Green River Valley can provide most of what anyone would desire in a Western vacation. Heck, you might not even miss seeing Old Faithful Geyser. For a calendar of events marking rodeos, live music and entertainment, cultural demonstrations and even their annual sailing regatta, go to www.visitpinedale.org/events, or www.sublettechamber.com. — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide

Green River Rendezvous and Museum of the Mountain Man By Mike Calabrese The mountain man’s cry “Meet me on the Green!” was a reminder and an inspiration to early trappers, who spent long and isolated winters gathering beaver pelts. Cowboys once roamed pretty much everywhere west of the Mississippi and have outlived even their almost mythical epoch of the late 1800s. But mountain men, who made do with less (after all, cowboys always had their horses and cattle), pretty much went the way of the beaver hat by the late 1850s. The mountain man’s story, though, is every bit the match of the cowboy’s for color and lore, especially when it comes to the “Winning of the West.” For every Bat Masterson, Bill Hickok, and Wyatt Earp, there was an equally notable mountain man. John C. Fremont and William Sublette have a couple of Wyoming counties and mountain peaks named after them. Jedediah Smith and Kit Carson both certainly garnered enough press to earn their places in popular Western culture. And mountain man Jim Bridger is so revered around here that visitors to Wyoming will find no fewer than 21 places honoring him. Fitting, then, that a .403 caliber halfstock rifle of his should end up in the region’s most famous collection of mountain man history and memorabilia – the Museum of the Mountain Man in Pinedale, Wyoming. Even more fitting, the museum is situated on a hill not far from the site of the original Green River Rendezvous, held in 1833 in the “Valley of the Green.” Over 3,000 Indians, hundreds of mountain men, fur trappers, and missionaries assembled there to barter and trade their goods. The call to gather on “The Green” drew traders who traveled countless miles on hazardous, often life-threatening

trails. These rendezvous sometimes lasted for months. Time enough to get supplies, renew friendships, swap stories, trade, tipple and, of course, debauch. Of the 16 rendezvous held during the height of the Rocky Mountain fur trade, six were located in the Green River Valley. Exhibits at the museum provide a good starting point for visitors heading to the 79th Annual Green River Rendezvous, a re-creation of those original mountain man gatherings. This year’s rendezvous, replete with activities for the entire family, runs July 10-13. The Rendezvous Pageant, where over 200 members of the community perform in original costumes, is held at the Pinedale Rodeo Grounds. For more information visit the Green River Rendezvous Pageant Association’s website at meetmeonthegreen.com or call (307) 367-2242. The museum captures the ways and lore of these hardy individuals. Clothing, artifacts, rare documents, photos, mounted animals, even the Chief American Horse Warrior Society tipi help bring the days of the mountain man alive. The museum also colorfully showcases western wildlife, Indians, fur trapping, wagon trains, mountain men, and bison in its spacious 15,000-square-foot facility. Bridger’s rifle, given to him in 1853, was at one time part of the Buffalo Bill collection. Fortunately, it has found a permanent home in this rewarding and informative setting. The Museum of the Mountain Man is open daily from 9 a.m. until 5 p.m., through September 30. Admission fees are $7 for adults, $5 for seniors, and $3 for kids 6-12 years old. For more information call toll free (877) 686-6266, go online at museumofthemountainman.com. or visit the museum’s Facebook page. Mike Calabrese is a musician, editor, and writer living in Jackson Hole.

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Whether you're fly-fishing, backpacking, or climbing, we offer the finest outdoor equipment to outfit the whole family. Paddleboard and canoe rentals provide access to gorgeous lakes, and experienced guides offer fishing trips down picturesque rivers. Our enthusiastic staff is knowledgeable, friendly, and willing to assist. 332 West Pine Pinedale, Wyoming 307-367-2440 www.greatoutdoorshop.com

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LIFE AT THE BOW

xcited by the potential for a beautiful sunrise, I arrived one crisp

fall morning at the Oxbow Bend. A hint of dawn illuminated the eastern horizon, and my senses came alive as I stepped out of the car.

The unmistakable smell of wet leaves reached me almost immediately, followed quickly by the sounds that carried in the stillness of

oxbow bend

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Photography & Text by Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild By Nature Gallery

the twilight. A bull elk bugled back and forth with his rival on the riverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s far side as a pair of sandhill cranes chimed in with their raucous prehistoric call. Not long after, coyotes howled in the distance and the shrill cry of a bald eagle rounded out the new dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chorus. The soundtrack alone was a welcome bonus at this early hour.

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As the day brightened and the fog lifted, I began to see Mount Moran, outlined with a dusting of new snow. I could faintly make out the shapes of a cow and calf moose wading in the shallows under a grove of aspen trees painted with fall colors. A flock of white pelicans came floating in from their nightly roost, and just ahead of them a pair of trumpeter swans glided in for a landing on the undisturbed water. This was Oxbow Bend at its finest. I felt privileged to witness such a stunning natural display.

GREAT GREY OWL

Located in the northern portion of Grand Teton National Park, Oxbow Bend is a wide section of the Snake River just a few miles downstream from the Jackson Lake dam. The Snake River, at some point in its history, cut a new channel, leaving the older, wider channel to meander around the island that now divides the two streams. If viewed from above, it looks much like a hunterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bow, or the U-shaped collar for MOOSE COW AND CALF

PAIR OF WESTERN GREBES

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Limited Edition Photographs, Books, Note Cards 95 W. Deloney • Behind the Wort Hotel • Box 2673 • Jackson, WY 83001 • 733-8877 www.wildbynaturegallery.com 2 0 1 4 T E TO N & Y E L L OW STO N E A DV E N T U R E G U I D E

Henry H. Holdsworth

A biologist with a background in animal behavior and environmental education, Henry has spent over 25 years photographing wildlife and wilderness landscapes. Much of his work is centered on the natural history of threatened species such as the grizzly bear, bald eagle, bison and trumpeter swan. His images are used regularly by leading publications including National Geographic, Nature’s Best, National Wildlife and Wildlife Conservation. His work has also been displayed in galleries and museums such as the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History in Washington D.C. and The National Museum of

a grand teton view from the oxbow

Life at the Oxbow is forever interesting and changing.

seasons. Springtime may bring a family of grizzly bears chasing a flock of pelicans. A herd of cow elk with newborn calves might swim to safety and away from predators during the summer months. A bald eagle tries to steal a trout from an osprey in the fall, while winter brings a family of otters diving under the ice in search of fish. I never tire of this special place; life at the Oxbow is forever interesting and changing. It is one of my favorite locations in Grand Teton National Park.

osprey

Henry and friends

Wildlife Art in Jackson, Wyoming. His first book on grizzlies was published in 1997, and has been followed by sixteen other photographic books on the mountains and wildlife of Alaska, Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons. His latest portfolio, “Moose of Yellowstone and Grand Teton” was released in June of 2009. Henry now divides his time between running his Wild by Nature Gallery and photographing remote and wild areas. He and his family make their home in Jackson Hole, Wyoming.

Mother elk and their young

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JH Skatepark features classic hits

Photos: William Whitfield Skater: Andy "Salmon" Skinner

SKATEBOARDING

Front Side Air

ackson Hole Skatepark, hidden away on the west side of Jackson, contains classic features found in most parks, but the popular town hot spot also holds a variety of unique ones. Street features that mimic those found in public areas are augmented with shaped features like corners and escalators, rails, and bowls. The smaller concrete depressions are three-feet deep, the largest bowl, though, comes in at 11 feet deep. The Skatepark has been around since 2001 and was funded entirely by donations and private money. The Town of Jackson granted land from the school district to make room for the park. Located at 1374 Gregory Lane, the Skatepark is just beyond the outfields of the town softball fields and is open during daylight hours. During softball season, with the lights on, skateboarders are able to enjoy it during the cooler summer evenings. A Jackson skate shop, The Boardroom, even has a skate team. Asked why a team, owner Lauri Aittola replied “That’s what a skate shop should do. We wanted to give the kids a sense of team

Ollie To Fakie

Backside Smith Grind

and to have peers for those new to the sport to look up to in such an individual sport. Our goal is to give them a sense of family within skateboarding.” Last summer saw beginning of the Wild West Skate Series. A group of competitors skate in regional parks while judges watch and score the skaters. This year, the second annual series is set for July 26 at JH Skatepark; August 9 at the Ketchum, Idaho, Skatepark; August 16 at the Driggs, Idaho, Skatepark, with the finals on September 6 at the JH Skatepark. For more information contact the Boardroom at 307-733-8327. — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide

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HIKING

Some of my favorite places

Wade McKoy photos (2-Wilderness Ventures); Headline photo: Bob Woodall

The Tetons’ natural splendor can be experienced during a short walk or a long hike into the wild.

by Becky Woods

xperiencing the landscape of Greater Yellowstone from inside your vehicle is akin to window-shopping: it only offers a glimpse of the treasures that wait within. Incomparable scenic vistas, wildflowers, and wildlife lie beyond the asphalt. Put on your walking shoes and hit the dirt on the favored trails suggested below. They won’t disappoint.

Grand Teton National Park Begin your park exploration at the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center in Moose. A free orientation film, exhibits, helpful staff and a selection of maps and guidebooks will enrich your time spent in the Tetons. Fill your water bottle and head down the inner park road to the turnout for String Lake at North Jenny Lake Junction. The signed Leigh Lake trail begins at the north end of String Lake parking area. This

pleasantly wooded path parallels first String, then Leigh lakes—framed by the best close-up views of Mount Moran in the park. If this spectacular hike whets your appetite for more (and it will!) check out the Lake Creek/Woodland Trail Loop in Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve or the perennial favorite trail to Hidden Falls departing from the South Jenny Lake parking area. An early start is recommended for both these justly popular trails, to secure both parking and relative solitude.

Jackson and Teton Village Visitors lodging in the town of Jackson or Teton Village will find rewarding hiking in their respective “backyard” ski areas. A network of trails honeycombs the summit and base of Snow King Mountain in Jackson; download a free map at friendsofpathways.org/resources. Riding the chairlift to the summit of Snow King and hiking 1.8-miles down to the base is a popular option. The panoramic view showcases

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Rushing streams drain the winter snowpack all summer long in mountain country.

Above treeline, Teton hikers enter a landscape of sparse vegetation and living geology.

Jackson and the five mountain ranges surrounding this mountain town. The tram ride to the summit of 10,400-foot Rendezvous Peak in Teton Village instantly transports you to the alpine zone and tremendous views of the Gros Ventre Range enclosing the east side of Jackson Hole. Set off on the Top of the World Trail to the Cody Bowl Spur Trail and Green River Overlook for views of the Tetons and the valley floor far below. Double-back, or continue on the Rock Springs Trail to the Summit Trail to complete the memorable 4.2-mile Cody Bowl/ Rock Springs Loop. A spectacular new trail links the summit of Rendezvous Mountain with the top of the Bridger Gondola, dropping 1,350 vertical feet as it winds through the spectacular Tensleep Bowl, traverses The Cirque and descends the Headwall. From there the gondola ride down is free. Trail maps are available at jacksonhole.com.

Yellowstone The nation’s first national park deserves a lifetime of exploration. Assuming your vacation isn’t quite that long, one has to be selective. Luckily, some of the best short hikes in the park bring you up-close-and-personal with its major attractions. Cerulean blue Grand Prismatic Spring—the world’s largest known hot spring— commands attention as you near Old Faithful.

Dubbed the “Earth’s Eye,” it can be reached via the boardwalk at Midway Geyser Basin. Check the geyser eruption schedule at the Old Faithful Visitor’s Center when you arrive: if you’re lucky, you’ll be able to hike to impressive Castle Geyser to witness it spout off, an event that only

Falls. Early park visitors held onto a knotted rope to make the steep descent. Today’s visitors hike on open-mesh, steel steps. Inexpensive trail maps can be purchased at various visitor centers, or downloaded in advance at www. yellowstone-natl-park. com/maps.htm.

Grand Targhee/Teton Valley

Luckily for vacationers, many of the best short hikes get up-close-and-personal with some major attractions. occurs twice a day. Elephant Back Loop Trail, south of Fishing Bridge, offers an elevated view of Yellowstone Lake backed by Mt. Sheridan, snow-capped well into summer. Trails to the bottom of thundering Tower Falls and through the terraces at Mammoth Hot Springs both earn spots on the don’t-miss list. This author’s personal favorite, however, is Uncle Tom’s Trail at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. This path, the oldest in the park, drops into the canyon for so-close-you-get-wet views of 308-foot Lower

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The west slope of the Teton Range lies predominantly in Wyoming, but is accessed through Idaho’s Teton Valley. “Wydaho” boasts spectacular hiking. The level hike up South Teton Canyon provides a world-class warm-up before moving on to knock-your-socks-off views at Grand Targhee Ski Resort. The new Bannock Trail skirts the lip of South Leigh Canyon as it climbs to the top of Fred’s Mountain. Outstanding wildflowers and views make it the trail of choice.

Pinedale Pinedale is the portal to the Wind River Range, arguably the best backpacking range in the lower 48 and home to 15 of Wyoming’s 16 highest peaks. Day hikers will want to check out Green River Lakes. These comely bodies of water attract canoeists and anglers, and provide reflecting pools for impressive Squaretop Mountain, an oft-photographed Wyoming landmark as recognizable as the Grand Teton. An attainable panorama of the Winds’ high peaks is found at

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Photographer’s Point. The trail begins at Elkhart Park, located at the end of Fremont Lake Road.

Cody The heart of the Old West and eastern gateway town to Yellowstone, Cody’s charm is multi-faceted. Both the Paul Stock Natural

Both the Paul Stock Natural Trail and the Shoshone Riverway parallel the Shoshone River, offering a kid- and pet-friendly means to stretch your legs and perhaps sight waterfowl and wildlife. Trail and the Shoshone Riverway parallel the Shoshone River, offering a kid- and petfriendly means to stretch your legs and perhaps sight waterfowl and wildlife. Inquire locally for directions. More adventurous is a hike/easy scramble to the top of Heart Mountain, located equidistant between Cody and Powell off Hwy. 14. This geologic anomaly rises above the sage, its 8,123-foot summit offering a scenic peek into Big Horn Basin. Explore remnants of the Heart Mountain Camp at the conclusion of your outing. This WWII Japanese internment camp is a state historic site under consideration for national park status.

Large alpine lakes are another mountain country specialty.

Rebecca Woods has penned numerous highly regarded guidebooks to the Greater Yellowstone region, including Jackson Hole Hikes, Targhee Trails, and Beyond the Tetons.

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The Tetons can be approached from countless trails, all of them rewarding.

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CLIMBING

Wade McKoy / Wilderness Ventures photos

Enter the ramparts of the Gods

A student climber rappels in Grand Teton National Parkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cascade Canyon.

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A guided climber ascends Wall Street on the Grand Teton.

The Tetons have drawn mountaineers to scale her peaks for well over 100 years. Photographs made by Henry Jackson in the 1800s seared this magnificent range into Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s consciousness. Early adventurers pioneered routes up these crags, some now named in their honor â&#x20AC;&#x201D; William Owen, the Reverend Spalding, Glenn Exum, and Paul Petzoldt among them. Compelling today as ever before, these majestic spires still beckon valley visitors. Those who heed the call are enriched by the process of work, achievement, rest, and reflection. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The initial lure of climbing, and still the bottom line for many of us, is it allows us to be in a lot of places that a lot of people donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get to be,â&#x20AC;? said Jackson Hole Mountain Guidesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; head man Rob Hess. This sense of privileged passage, revered in the lives of mountaineers, fuels the fires of dedication. Those who havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t had a chance to let climbing into their lives on such an intimate level â&#x20AC;&#x201C; yet â&#x20AC;&#x201C; can especially benefit by hiring a guide. A smart move that helps keep the taskâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s many demands in perspective. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The initial adrenaline becomes euphoria when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve worked through a climb,â&#x20AC;? Hess said, â&#x20AC;&#x153;especially if you make it up something where you

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went through some fear.â&#x20AC;? A strong mindset gains traction better even than physical fitness. â&#x20AC;&#x153;For any discipline, you have to train your mind and your body to work at a high level,â&#x20AC;? he said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;But physical strength alone doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t work, and doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t account for all that much if you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t also have the necessary mental strength and fortitude.â&#x20AC;? Climbers like fun, too, but they need discipline. In climbing, many have found a discipline that transcends the sport. â&#x20AC;&#x153;When Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m up on a route, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m completely in the moment,â&#x20AC;? Hess said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not thinking of anything else. All the distractions, the baggage of life, the various forms of stress, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re leaving everything else behind, thinking fully on climbing whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in front of you, focused on the right-then-and-there.â&#x20AC;? Hess said this total focus is cleansing. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s freedom â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and that there arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t many things like that in life. Many guides look at the job as a way to give back to a lifestyle they love. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Fundamentally, mountain guides develop our own physical and mental selves,â&#x20AC;? said Hess. â&#x20AC;&#x153;And through guiding we give some of that back, that knowledge, that exuberance, and that enjoyment of the mountains, by helping others enjoy it.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide

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PATHWAYS

Jackson Hole Community Pathways a national leader

ackson Hole Community Pathways are closing in on a stratospheric landmark this summer as work continues on a new pedestrian bridge spanning the Snake River alongside WY Highway 22. Once completed, along with a new Highway 22 pathway, all Jackson Hole communities will be connected by a non-motorized travel option. “This link will fundamentally alter our community,” said Friends Of Pathways Executive Director Mike Welch. “Residents and visitors will be able to explore Jackson Hole without relying on their cars or RVs. Imagine people walking and biking around the valley, freed from their automobiles.” Nationally recognized by the League of American Bicyclists as a gold-level Bicycle Friendly Community, Jackson Hole’s notable pathway system grew out of nearly two decades of work by locals who formed the advocacy group Friends of Pathways and town officials. At the federal level, the late Wyoming U.S. Senator Craig Thomas’s efforts were essential. The National Park Service also became a valued partner. Veteran local cyclists happily note their unqualified appreciation for the current pathway system.

“We are so lucky,” said Walt Berling, a resident cyclist since 1976 and a pathways representative to the county task force. “Wherever I travel, I look at pathway systems. Ours is one of the best, really well designed and interesting to ride.” And it covers a lot of ground. Bicyclists can now ride an auto-free asphalt lane from South Park to Jackson, all the way up to Moose, and then to Jenny Lake. Or from Wilson to Teton Village, and then up to Poker Flats (and, it’s hoped, one day on to Moose).

“Wherever I travel, I look at pathway systems. Ours is one of the best, well designed and interesting to ride.” — Walt Berling Last summer another milestone pathway section in Grand Teton National Park, connecting the Elk Refuge pathway (and Jackson) to Moose, opened for cyclists and all non-motorized users. “That was definitely a landmark,” noted Tim Young, former Friends of Pathways executive director. Communities throughout America are in-

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creasingly getting into the pathways frame of mind. By our count, there are now 238 Bicycle Friendly Communities (BFC) in all 50 states and another 59 Bicycle Friendly Universities in 27 states. The League of American Bicyclists website (www.bikeleague.org) sanctions the program and lists and profiles the BFC awardees. “Cities are choosing to invest in bicycling, even in these tough economic times, as a key element of places people want to live, work, and visit,” the league said. Teton County pathways program coordinator Brian Schilling reapplies every four years for the BFC designation, as do all the participating communities. Jackson and Teton County are among 16 gold-level communities. “We worked our way up from Silver, our inaugural designation in 2006 to Gold in 2008 and 2012,” he said. “As the construction of missing links occurs over the next few years we are also beginning to develop the other necessary elements that will enable us to reach for the platinum.” To reach that top level – only four places have it: Boulder, Colorado; Davis, California; Portland, Oregon, and Fort Collins, Colorado – Jackson would begin to focus on outreach and education. “Those platinum communities do a lot more

Photos: Wade McKoy (1,3,); Bob Woodall (2)

Jackson Hole’s growing pathway system affords bike commuters safe, scenic passage throughout the valley’s vibrant landscape.

Cycling to Jenny Lake from Moose is an easy ride filled with splender.

to help people shift modes away from driving a car to riding a bike,” said Schilling. “They do the outreach, walk people through it. Soon it becomes as simple as jumping in the car.” It’s not all about the bikes, though. Hundreds of people use pathways to walk, roller skate, exercise the dog, stroll with the baby, or recreate as families. Cross-country skiers even use pathways for roller skiing in summer. Berling, who for 25 years coached the Jackson Hole High School Nordic team, began using pathways for the team’s summer training program. “Willie Neal was a member of our team,” Berling said. “He was killed roller skiing in Maine on a quiet road. We don’t roller ski on the roads at all anymore. “Willie would be excited to see the Pathway progress on our pathway and trail system. He was the first high school ambassador on the county Pathways task force and was a section leader during the construction of the Phillips trail system by the Arrow Scouts (this Boy Scouts of America troop mobilized 650

use includes local team riders like Dustin Varga.

scouts to work alongside Forest Service and Pathways trail crews and built 10 miles of single-track mountain bike trail on Teton Pass in a mere five days).” Lots of kids take to the pathways, too, as an-

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other veteran cyclist, Wilson resident Ellen Fales, has noticed. “Parents feel safe letting their kids go out on bikes,” said Fales. “In the beginning, people thought it would devalue their property. But it became an asset, continued bottom page 50

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MOUNTAIN BIKING

Jackson Hole’s single track a biker’s Nirvana

Backcountry roads can be as fun as singletrack. Wade McKoy photos; riders top photo: Laura Quinlivan, Holly McKoy

ention Cache Creek or Teton Pass to mountain bikers and watch them beam with admiration. That’s because miles of single-track were designed and built by some of the best minds in Jackson Hole when it comes to mountain-bike aesthetics. A combined staff from the Bridger Teton National Forest and Friends of Pathways manned the trail crews and labored alongside volunteers from a wide range of institutions, including the Boy Scouts of America and the Teton Freedom Riders.

Greater Snow King Area Visitors to Jackson can ride the Greater Snow King Area from the hotel. Or drive to the Cache Creek trailhead, where numerous single tracks veer off in every direction. Large maps at trailhead kiosks not only look impressive, but they give bikers a bird’s

Snowcapped Mount Glory rises above the spring green trails on Teton Pass. Rider: Brendon Newton.

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eye view of bike trails that traverse the slopes cruise down one of six different trails above Cache Creek and travel far into the moun- assigned difficulty ratings similar to those of ski trails. Built by Gravity tains. A variety of rides can be put together to suit Logic, one of the world’s premier all comers – families, cruisers, and hard-cores. A short, effective familiarization loop heads up mountain-bike park developers, this Sidewalk as it traverses the flower-strewn hillside new site represents the finest in trail above Cache Creek itself, branches onto Wiggle design and construction. Tabletop jumps allow novice ridand up the banked-turn switchbacks to Putt Putt, ers to catch air and land safely even then rolls through the meadowlands high above if they don’t make it the creek as it takes riders back to all the way to the the trailhead. Volunteer dig days, landing. Banked-turn Easier still, ride Cache Creek’s held every Friday sections feel like a mellow-grade dirt road as it climbs coaster ride. lazily up-canyon to the Gros Ventre from 8 a.m. to noon, roller The flow and rhythm Wilderness boundary (leave your bike at the boundary for a bike-hike are essential to trail keep bikers coming back to the chairlift combo – no bikes allowed in the maintenance – and for another lap. wilderness area!). The chairlift bike Longer rides continue through fun too. rack is easy to use. sunny fields of wildflowers and asSimply roll your bike into the rack pens on the south-facing Putt Putt Trail extensions and among shadowy tall timber on the north-fac- with no lifting, seat yourself in the ing Hagen Trail. Climb Ferrin’s and connect with next chair, and the top lift attendant Game Creek for a 20-plus-mile loop back to town hands you your bike. This system delivers lap after lap of downhill on the paved Von Gontard, Paul Merritt, and Russ mountain biking in a seamless, enGaraman pathways. Or climb up Game Creek and ergy-saving fashion. Check out the descend into Cache Creek for a long, mellow 12-hour endurance race in August, downhill ride back to town. Downhill-specific mountain-bike trails on Teton Pass, built and the Red Bull Final Descent, where Teton Village maintained by the Teton Freedom Riders. Rider: Jeff Brines riders rack up laps non-stop from The Jackson Hole Bike Park in Teton Village is early morning to early evening. was designed and built by year-round resort all the rage among many mountain bikers this The Jackson Hole Mountain Resort also mainworkers – skiers – and is a fun, short mountain year. It’s a family-friendly experience, and one that tains seven miles of single-track that traverse the bike tour. any novice biker can enjoy. lower mountain from Après Vous to the Hobacks. Expert cyclists might choose to climb the rocky Ride up Teewinot chairlift with your bike and Rolling and winding with the ski terrain, this route dirt road to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain

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Mountain biking continued and ride the tram back down free of charge (downhill riding is prohibited above the top of the Gondola). Pick up a map from any employee.

Grand Targhee

Wilson Cyclists can ride from downtown Wilson up the paved Old Pass Road (non-motorized vehicles only, 2,000-plus-foot climb) to the top of 8,416-foot Teton Pass. Downhill specialists often drive up the pass to the Phillips Canyon trailhead to access Jimmy’s Mom, a super fun and tech-y downhillonly trail. Either way, the ride options in the Teton Pass Area are many, with the Arrow Trail, Sno-Tel, Phillips Ridge, and Phillips Canyon trails in the mix. The trailhead at the top of the pass accesses loop possibilities with the Black Canyon trail, and Lithium – another downhill-only route. Or head west to Mail Cabin Creek or Idaho’s Mike Harris trailhead.

Etiquette Bikers must yield to all other users on forest trails. Expect to see hikers and horse riders on many of these routes. Cyclists riding downhill should yield to cyclists riding up. No trail user should be deaf. It’s dumb––and dangerous. Turn down those tunes so you can still hear other people coming…and the lions, moose, and bears that, rest assured, are out there, too. Ride open trails only. Respect wilderness and national park closures and private property. Give wildlife a wide berth. When cycling on the paved pathway system, alert others when approaching from behind and pass them respectfully and safely.

Wade McKoy

When it’s June, July, or August and the West is sweltering, Targhee and the Tetons might offer the most extraordinary cool-temperature riding in the lower 48. At 8,000 feet, base-area cruisers include Ricks Basin and Quakie Ridge. Experts can take their downhill mountain bike up the chairlift and bomb down the jumps and berms on Easy Rider, or ride their cross-country bike out to Mary’s Saddle and the Teton Vista Traverse. Over a dozen double-track and single-track bike trails give riders great views in the company of wildflowers and aspens. The Mountain Bike Skills Park has multi-use and downhill-specific mountain biking. The Peaked Trail is for biking and hiking, and it climbs 1,300 feet onto Peaked Mountain, where big views of the Tetons await. The Lightning Ridge Loop is designated for biking, hiking, and horseback riding. Aptly named for its high-altitude exposure, Lightning Ridge delivers unobstructed views. Novice cyclists can ease into trail riding on the new 1.5-mile beginner trail from the Teewinot Lodge to the horse stables. And cyclists of all levels will enjoy the new Mountain Bike Skills Park as they practice and improve their riding technique on a variety of routes and features located near the base of the Dreamcatcher lift. For updates on Trail Volunteer Days, special events, and bike camps, visit www.grandtarghee.com. Pick up a map at the activity center.

Rolling single-track and table-top jumps give downhill bikers ample thrills. Rider: Kyle Dowman

Maps Free maps at friendsofpathways.org/resources, a local nonprofit advocacy group, are also available at bike and outdoor shops, along with several good local guidebooks. Volunteer trail-crew workdays are posted at Friends of Pathways on Facebook.

Trail Crew As noted, these amazing trails are the result of a partnership between the Bridger-Teton National Forest and Friends of Pathways, and a variety of service organizations. But there’s more to be done. And for those interested in gaining some sweat equity, volunteer dig days are essential to trail maintenance – and fun too – as they bring a lot of different people together. More info at friendsofpathways.org The Teton Freedom Riders, a dedicated group of local mountain bikers, have played a critical role in designing and building the downhill-specific mountain bike trails in the Teton Pass Area. They continue to log thousands of hours each summer buffing out those bike trails. Check out their unique story at tetonfreedomriders.org. Teton Freedom Riders host volunteer dig days once month. Happy trails! — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide Pathways from page 47

dining Restaurant guide jhdiningguide.com smartphone-compatible website Focus Productions, Inc. 307-733-6995 focusjh@focusproductions.com • facebook.com/jhdiningguide Search Restaurants by: • Cuisine • Meals • Price Range • Make Reservations • View Menus • Maps • Recipes • News • Blogs • Videos

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especially if they had kids.” With functional systems completed in much of Jackson Hole, the “missing links” are quickly disappearing. “We’re collaborating with the town of Jackson and Teton County to create a fully connected system,” said FOP Communications Manager Lauren Dickey. “The network through town is fully marked with paint on the roads and way-finding signs.” These bike lanes connect the Garaman pathway to Snow King Avenue and the N89 Pathway that parallels the National Elk Refuge into Grand Teton National Park. Jack Koehler, Friends of Pathways vice president, recalled the 1970s conversation that got it all started. “At the first public meeting on pathways,” said Koehler, “the question was, ‘Why don’t we have a better bicycling infrastructure?’ Now it seems pathways are the heart and soul of Jackson Hole.” As with so many others who helped shepherd Jackson Hole’s alternative transportation movement, Koehler feels transformed by their success. “Pathways have become less and less about me as a cyclist,” he said, “and more about the community and how it can function. How people can move about and experience the outside world.” Mike Welch further distills the Friends of Pathways mission: “It’s about health and wellness and a connection to the environment,” he said. “When people choose to leave the car at home, and to walk, ride, or roll to work, to run errands, even to recreate, I think you’re creating a closer connection to your environment and to your community.” — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide

SHOOTING

Learn a pioneer skill from a pro

by Joseph Piccoli

E ven if you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know anything about guns, even if you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t like shooting, you should consider spending some time with the experts at Jackson Hole Shooting Experience during your vacation this year. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Some people think they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t like shooting when they first come to us,â&#x20AC;? Shepard Humphries, co-owner of the Jackson Hole Shooting Experience, said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Sometimes they even say they are â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;anti-gunâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Most of our guests are new to shooting, with many touching a firearm for the first time with us. But because theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re with a group or because theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Out Westâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; they decide to try it anyway.â&#x20AC;? And, Humphries added, by the time they leave, many of those newbies eagerly anticipate their next trip to Jackson for more shooting fun. One reason for this, said co-owner Lynn Sherwood, is that the JH Shooting Experienceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s expert coaches regard customers not as customers but as

Photos Courtesy Jackson Hole Shooting Experience

â&#x20AC;&#x153;High Caliber Womenâ&#x20AC;? meets the call from women for instruction in the shooting sports and personal protection training. personal guests. And the coaches donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t consider the shotguns, rifles, and pistols guests use to be â&#x20AC;&#x153;weapons.â&#x20AC;? That might sound like spin, but Humphries knows weaponsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;he spent over 10 years in law enforcement, including time on a SWAT team and as a SWAT sniper. Instead, Humphries views the guns his guests use as the equivalent of skis, golf clubs, or fishing poles. They are, he said, the tackle of â&#x20AC;&#x153;Luxury Entertainment Shooting.â&#x20AC;? And the Jackson Hole Shooting Experience has a very large tackle box. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We have over 50 different types of guns and our selection is always growing,â&#x20AC;? Humphries said. New to that array this year is a variety of fully-automatic rifles, including the iconic â&#x20AC;&#x153;Tommy Gunâ&#x20AC;?. JH Shooting Experienceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular offering, the Multi-Gun Rifle & Pistol Experience, introduces guests to many of those guns in a single threehour session. Safety is always paramount. Guests don eye and ear protection, get a safety briefing and go through the basics of shooting with hands-on instruction in grip, stance, sight alignment and sight picture before they touch a loaded gun. But itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not all workâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;guests start shooting with their private coach within 15 minutes. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We customize the (program) based on each shooterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s level of experience, the number of shooters in the party and their goals and desiresâ&#x20AC;? Sherwood explained. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Every Shooting Experience is different.â&#x20AC;? The JH Shooting Experience goal is to get all guests comfortable with firearms and what they can do with them. They start by shooting up to 300 rounds using a variety of .22-caliber rimfire rifles and handguns which have little recoil, are easy on the body, and are thus are a good introduction to shooting. Guests then move on to larger-caliber guns. Each sends three to five rounds down range with many different firearms, including two or three different 9mm semi-automatic pistols, several .45 caliber ACP semi-automatic pistols, and an assortment of historic and modern rifles. These can vary widely, from a classic Marlin Lever-Action .357, a gun that a Jackson Hole cowhand of old might have carried, to the infamous AK-47â&#x20AC;&#x201D;probably the most recognizable gun on the planetâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and several rifles capable hitting targets 600 yards away! In addition, the Shotgun Clays Experience introduces shooters to the thrill of shotgun sports. And the Archery Experience leaves gunpowder out of the equation, but gives guests a chance to shootâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and throwâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a variety of weapons, from classic recurve and modern compound bows, and even blow guns, to tomahawks and throwing knives. With more and more women interested in the shooting sports and personal protection training, Sherwood launched â&#x20AC;&#x153;High Caliber Womenâ&#x20AC;? in January to meet the call from women for personalized instruction. Sherwood now leads community courses, corporate group events and bachelorette parties in private gun-safety lessons and defensive skill-building and personal protection courses. One thing you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get at the Jackson Hole Shooting Experience is a single gun and a couple of boxes of ammunition. â&#x20AC;&#x153;A lot of people ask us why they canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just come out and shoot for half an hour,â&#x20AC;? Humphries said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;What w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m

we specialize in are private, personalized interactions. We are proud to be known for quality rather than for being cheap. I mention that because we canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t maintain good student/instructor ratios and keep a large selection of guns on hand for safe use if we just rent guns and sell boxes of ammo.â&#x20AC;? High Caliber Women instructor Lynn Sherwood This philosophy seems to be working. The TripAdvisor travel website currently ranks the JH Shooting Experience third on a list of 97 things to do in Jackson. Of 161 reviews posted on the site, none rate the Shooting Experience lower than â&#x20AC;&#x153;excellentâ&#x20AC;?. Reservations are required for all JH Shooting Experience programs. For more information, visit ShootInJH.com or HighCaliberWomen.com or call 307-690-7921. Joseph Piccoli is a writer and editor living in Jackson Hole.

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Story by Scott Sanchez Photos by Scott Smith

he mesmerizing whisper of the river’s current. The graceful arc of a fly line as it travels through the air, silhouetted against a kaleidoscope of colorful wildflowers and vibrant green cottonwoods, framed by the purple/grey Tetons and deep azure sky. That breathtaking image mirrored at your feet on the water’s surface pleasantly interrupted by the vibrant golden form of a cutthroat trout encircled in its rise form. Fly fishing in Jackson Hole is the captivating combination of catching wild, native Snake River cutthroat in majestic mountain surroundings. And a fine a catch it is! The indigenous Snake River finespotted cutthroat is gold in color, peppered with small black spots, and accented by its sig- This rainbow trout lived to fight another day, caught and released unharmed by proper handling technique. nature crimson throat markings. Thanks in part to evolution and, additionally, don’t imitate anything exactly, but through special regulations, habitat restoration look like many of their foods. The area around Jackson holds a projects, and the Snake River’s Wild and Scenic River Designation, this trout dominates the variety of waters to fish, and the gamut includes streams, high mounSnake River drainage. tain lakes, large valley lakes, mid-size Snake River cutthroats average from six to rivers, and the sprawling majestic twelve inches, but mature fish up to 18 inches are not uncommon. My largest taped in at 27 Snake River. Preference for adventure inches. There are non-native fisheries that yield can be matched with options ranging a larger average trout size, but none compare to from roadside angling to floating to Jackson’s oversized fishing experience, scenery, day hikes to overnight backcountry and tranquility. Regardless of their size, all wild adventures. Teton County is 97 percent Federal land, consisting mainly of native fish are trophies. Plying waters with dry flies is considered the Bridger Teton National Forest and Grand Teton National Park, so the opessence of fly fishing. The intimate encounter of tions are almost unlimited. The antrout and angler transcending their worlds to glers you are most likely to run into are meet at the water’s surface is magical. From eagles, ospreys, and herons. Deer, casting an inch-long Chernobyl into the current of the Snake to matching the hatch for large se- elk, bison and moose are frequent companions, and you just might spot lective cutts on Flat Creek, Jackson offers some a bighorn sheep, bear, or wolf. You of the best dry fly fishing in the world. Overall, Snake River cutts are aggressive surface feed- can experience this on your own or with the assistance of a local guide. ers. This evolved survival trait is needed to take June is spring in Jackson and is advantage of a relatively short summer season fairly limited for stream fishing since and finite food sources. These feeding habits at most waters are swollen with times make for less sophisticated fishing, so an angler with basic skills and a rudimentary fly se- snowmelt. Better fishing options this A fly fisher lands a wild, native trout in a clear mountain river. time of year include area lakes, borlection has a good chance of fooling a fish. It Around the end of June, Snake tributaries like dered by great terrain for early season hiking. might not always be a huge fish, but the opporthe Hoback, Greys, and Gros Ventre rivers start Bradley, Taggart, Bearpaw, Phelps, and Trapper tunities to catch numerous cutts and refine your to clear. This coincides with the huge Salmonfly angling skills are ample. Jackson Hole is one of lakes in Teton Park are easy hikes into fishable hatch on the Hoback, and good quantities of the best places for a complete novice to land a waters. Phelps has trophy size cutthroats and caddis and small stoneflies bring trout to the surlake trout, while the others hold a mix of modersizeable trout on a dry fly. In general our streams face of all three rivers. All three drainages offer ate size cutts’ and brook trout. Bear spray, aren’t hatch-specific but offer fish a variety of incamping, hiking, backpacking, and cycling opsects to feed on. Consequently, visible attractor though, is standard issue when backcountry tions and all have fishable tributaries and lakes. patterns like Trudes, Stimulators, Chernobyl fishing in Jackson Hole. You don’t need to be This combination of waters offers over a hundred Ants, and my Convertible fish very well. They scared, but you should be bear aware.

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Photos courtesy Grand Teton Fly Fishing; Headline photo: Wade McKoy / Wilderness Ventures

FISHING

Catching wild, native trout in majestic mountain surroundings

Proper casting technique comes with practice; enjoying fly fishing seems to come naturally, though.

public accessible miles of fishing. The Gros Ventre is eight miles north of Jackson, the Hoback 13 miles south of town, and the Greys enters the

The intimate encounter of trout and angler transcending their worlds to meet at the water’s surface is magical. Snake about 40 miles south of Jackson. Fishing will be good through mid September. The Snake River clears around the middle of July and can provide good dry fly fishing through mid October. Because of the large stoneflies that hatch during the summer and the importance of terrestrials in the trout’s diet, we can fish very large dry flies that are eagerly eaten by the trout and easy for the novice or us old guys to see. Initially, just after the rivers clear, your catch will be mostly small trout, but as August progresses, larger trout will move out of the tributaries post spawn. The Snake’s size can be intimidating, but much of it is braided with channels and side channels of various sizes. This makes it easier to wade fish some sections of the river, a bit like having a bunch of smaller streams. The best way to fish the

Snake, though, is with a guide and from a drift boat. This affords the most access, and while you will fish from the boat, a good part of the day also can be spent wade fishing areas that the non-boat angler can’t access. This is the best option for trout quality and quantity. September is prime season on the Snake River and I might call this a perfect place and perfect time. Trout feed on Hecuba, blue wing olive, and mahogany mayfly hatches as they fatten up for winter, and the fall colors against the deep blue sky are the icing on the cake. The larger cutts group up as they move towards winter habitat, and when you find them, you can spend considerable time casting to good-size rising fish. With about 90 miles of water between Jackson Lake Dam and the mouth of Palisades Reservoir and many public access points, you can find your own section of the Snake. The sunset reflection of the Tetons in the water as you release a trout back to its home is unbeatable, and the memory is an open invitation back to that spot and place in time. Scott Sanchez, the fly tying columnist for American Angler magazine, has contributed photos and articles to numerous fly fishing magazines in the U.S. and Japan. He has written three books: Intro-

JJackson Jacks acks kson Hole, Hole Hl,W Wyom Wyoming yom ming i

TETON TE ETON GRAND D FLY FL LY FISHI FISHING ING

duction to Salt Water Fly Tying, A New Generation of Trout Flies, and A Never Ending Stream. The Federation of Fly Fishers awarded him the Arnold Gingrich Lifetime Achievement Award for literary accomplishments and the Buz Busek Fly Tying Award for contributions to the world of fly tying. Scott’s books can be found in area fly shops.

The Complete Resource For All of Your Fly Fishing Needs in Jackson Hole.

• Full Service Fly Shop • Guided Fly Fishing • Worldwide Travel Services

Call us at 800.922.3474 for a Detailed Guide Brochure.

Fly Fishing Dreams are Fulfilled

at www.westbank.com Across from the Aspens On the Teton Village Road

grandtetonflyfishing.com gran dtetonflyfishing.co om

307-690-0910 3 07-690-0910 w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m

225 W W.. Broadway 2 0 1 4 T E TO N & Y E L L OW STO N E A DV E N T U R E G U I D E

RIVER RAFTING

Scenic and whitewater float trips top adventures

Scenic Float Trips Sometimes all you may want is unhurried silence, so a float through Grand Teton National Park provides the perfect answer for a quiet, lazy afternoon. The scenic upper section of the Snake is much different than its whitewater counterpart. The water is much calmer, though still fast-moving, and the river is braided with side channels. The shoreline varies greatly along these sections of river, as dense forests of spruce and lodgepole pine give way to the deciduous stands of cottonwoods and aspen, where beavers like to make their home. All the animal species of Jackson Hole use this river-bottom habitat at The Tetons, framed with dense forests of spruce and lodgepole one time or another. Rafters frequently pine, hallmarks of scenic float trips. spy moose, elk, deer, bison, prongchanges. You realize just how different a raft feels horn antelope, eagle, osprey, duck, river otter, than the car you’ve been driving in. As you grip muskrat, and fine-spotted Snake River cutthroat the paddle and peer out over the river, carrying the trout. Occasionally a black or grizzly bear makes collective weight of a long winter, you understand an appearance, sometimes even a wolf. why this is still considered an adventure. Time on Scenic floats allow for more of an interpretive the water is time well spent. trip for passengers, the raft’s pilot often shedding Learn to enjoy that twinge in your gut as you light on the valley’s history, its fur trappers, west- round a bend and hear a roar like the sound of ern heritage, and geography. ocean waves breaking on the beach. If you’re Designated a National Wild and Scenic River, nervous – good, that’s the idea. The anxiety will special sections of the Snake receive federal pro- soon be replaced by exuberance after you’ve tection, including stretches running through the pounded through some beefy waves and come canyon and Grand Teton National Park and through upright and alive. through confluences with a dozen of its tributaries. There is a golden moment, just as you enter the The sensitive regulations should help the ecosys- smooth, slick tongue of a big rapid, when time tem remain healthy and vibrant, ensuring that fu- stands still and the world is quiet despite the ture generations may also enjoy this remarkable chaos around you. These are the moments on a river. (see snakeriverfund.org) river trip that create memories you’ll take home with you. Whitewate Float Trips Call early, though, especially during those hot The eight-mile whitewater stretch of the Snake River just below Jackson Hole may offer the finest summer afternoons when everybody is looking for a splash in the face. one-day introduction to rapids in the country. As you load up to begin your trip, something

— Tom Bie and Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide staff writers

Bob Woodall photos

10 mile float trips inside GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK

www.solitudefloattrips.com Authorized concessioner of Grand Teton National Park

Whitewater rafters experience the exhilaration of pounding through beefy waves.

Photo courtesy O.A.R.S.

et the front seat if you can. That’s the first advice, that’s where the action is. Rafting in the Greater Yellowstone region is not only recommended, it’s practically required. The area is so packed with burly whitewater and peaceful flat water that to return home without getting on the river is like taking a trip to Hawaii and never going to the beach.

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Majestic Jenny Lake beckons

Bob Woodall

SCENIC CRUISES

A deep, glacial body of water formed roughly 12,000 years ago, Jenny Lake lies at the mouth of Cascade Canyon.

by Mike Calabrese

that this part of the Rockies Npileso surprise up the snowfall during long, sometimes epic, winters. We had a good one this year. But that deep white blanket yields quite another treasure come summer: water – lots of it, perfectly clear and startlingly cold. Some of it is held jewel-like right beneath the Tetons in Jenny Lake, one of Grand Teton National Park’s most beloved features. And a scenic boat cruise with park concessioner Jenny Lake Boating affords visitors a unique way to ply those limpid waters and appreciate the Tetons’ splendor. This outfit knows its way around the lake, too. These are the same local folks who expertly shuttle boatloads of sightseers between the dock and Jenny Lake’s prized west side, where Cascade Canyon trailhead begins. The trailhead leads passengers to two of the more revered park attractions, Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point. Thousands of park visitors make this pilgrimage every summer, some on foot around the lake’s southern shore, many by way of the shuttle boat. Sometimes that picture-perfect but brief lake traverse leaves passengers wishing for more. So a longer, more leisurely scenic cruise around this beautiful body of water might be just the ticket. A Jenny Lake Boating cruise offers an alternative way to view the Teton landscape and some of its flora and fauna. The tour on the lake, a glacial body formed roughly 12,000 years ago, enables expansive views of the massive Tetons, their w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m

Held jewel-like right beneath the Tetons is Jenny Lake, one of Grand Teton National Park’s most beloved features. canyons, and alpine landscape. Boat pilots and guides reveal the area’s history and geology during the hour-long scenic cruises where passengers can really put still and video cameras to good use. One-hour scenic cruises run from May 15 through September 21; rates range from $11 to $19.

The aluminum vessels hold up to 44 passengers and can be rented for private events like family reunions, wedding parties, or corporate gatherings. The daily shuttles over to the Cascade Canyon trailhead run every 15-20 minutes. Adults can make the round trip for $15, $9 if only one way; kids ride for $6 to $8; senior round trips are $12, but are free to those over 80. For the independent watercraft pilots out there, Jenny Lake Boating also rents kayaks and canoes. Online at www.jennylakeboating.com. Mike Calabrese is a staff writer and copy editor for Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide.

Scenic cruises on Jenny Lake throughout the day

• Magnificent Teton views • Shuttle service to Hidden Falls & Cascade Canyon • Handicapped accessible boats • Canoe & kayak rentals

www.jennylakeboating.com

307-734-9227 Authorized concessioner of Grand Teton National Park

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STAND UP PADDLE BOARDING

Ancient Hawaiian sport embraced in the Rockies

t’s a strange sight at first. Perhaps not what you expected to see in the Tetons. Someone standing on the water, in the lake, paddling a big surfboard. It gets even stranger down by the river. Helmeted and wearing wetsuits, these paddle surfers ride the waves and eddies like kayakers who’ve decided to walk on water. But it’s for real and it’s here to stay. Stand up paddle boarding, also called SUP, is the fastest growing water sport in the world. Over the past few years, activity has migrated from coastal cultures – ultimately from its ancient Hawaiian roots – and found its way into the Rocky Mountains. As it turns out, the Snake River’s many and varied water features create a first-rate playground for stand up paddle boarders. From its flat water and small riffles, eddies and waves, to its bigger and more powerful white water, the Snake delivers the goods to all levels of SUP recreationists. “All the sections of the Snake are awesome, from the dam to the Palisades,” said Aaron Pruzan, who, along with several fellow kayakers and skiers, pioneered SUP river use in Jackson Hole in 2008. Jackson Hole vacationers interested in SUP are in luck. Pruzan, who owns Rendezvous River Sports

After learning how to propel the board in a straight line, rookies quickly find themselves ferrying across the currents or touring the lakeshores.

— Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide

The clear, cold waters of Leigh Lake in Grand Teton National Park are perfect for paddlers.

Wade McKoy photos

and rents SUP gear, also offers lessons on the Snake’s calmer stretches near Hoback Junction. A good mix of flat water, small waves, and eddies make it the perfect outdoor classroom. “People learn very quickly,” said Pruzan. “I teach paddling technique, how to establish momentum with the board, and the correct balance position for paddling through small waves. Learning to edge the board comes next. You just press your foot down. And if you fall off, it’s easy to climb back on.” After learning how to propel the board in a straight line, rookies quickly find themselves ferrying across the currents or touring the lakeshores. Some SUP enthusiasts, like local skier-turnedwaterman Ward Blanch, even prefer paddling on lakes. “For me,” said Blanch, “it’s all about long tours on Jackson Lake, going forever along the shore and out into the open water. You can cover some miles. And you get such a great, full-body workout.” Not to mention startling views into the water from the elevated perspective that SUP provides (wear polarized glasses and you’ll likely pick out some fish). So the next time you drive by Jackson Lake or the Snake River and spot people seemingly walking on water, imagine how exhilarating it must feel! Consider giving it a try. You just might see for yourself why SUP has grown from its humble, beach-boy origins into the biggest thing since hula-hoops.

An SUP outing can include some hang-time, too.

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BOATING ACCESS info at www.visitpinedale.org. Or call the Pinedale BLM field office: 307-367-5300.

Cody & the North Fork

Wade McKoy photos

In Cody, river runners can catch Class III rapids on the North Fork of the Shoshone River from Yellowstone Park to the reservoir, or combine placid water with Class IV rapids on the main Shoshone from the reservoir to just past town. River info: www.blm.gov/wy is the place to start. For hiking and camping info go to www.fs.fed.us/r2/shoshone/districts/windriver.htm or call (307) 527-6241. Water skiing, fishing, and windsurfing are enjoyed on the Buffalo Bill Reservoir, west of Cody. Info: (307) 587-6076 or online at www.bbdvc.com.

Grand Teton National Park

Yellowstone National Park In Yellowstone National Park, motorboats, canoes, rowboats, kayaks, sailboats, and windsurfers are allowed on Yellowstone and Lewis lakes, but only paddle boats on Shoshone Lake. Leave the jet skis home! Listen up: A permit is required for all vessels on these lakesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;including float tubes. All other rivers and lakes are closed to boaters. Life preservers and permits are required (even for float tubes). Boats can be rented at Bridge Bay Marina. Get the scoop first by Googling boating in Yellowstone. Or call (307) 344-7381 for an automated information line.

West of Yellowstone West of the park, the Madison River provides whitewater from just below Ennis Reservoir through Bear Trap Canyon and idyllic (although thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nothing idyllic about the Bear Trap section) floating to its confluence with the Missouri River. Info: (406) 683-3900.

Green River & Pinedale Area The Green River between Pinedale and Big Piney is primarily utilized for fishing. For information, go to www.blm.gov/wy and pull up a cool map of every BLM field office and district in the state. Just point and click. The short story: Fremont (scads of opportunities and amenities here) and Half Moon lakes, near Pinedale, allow paddle craft and power and sailboats; and Green River Lakes, north of Cora, allow paddle craft only. Boatloads of

Boating is restricted to non-motorized craft, except on Jackson and Jenny lakes, where motorboats (10 hp or less on Jenny Lake) are allowed. Again, leave the jet skis home! Launches along the Snake River access a variety of waters, some dangerous, all beautiful. Life preservers and boat permits are required, and rangers patrol very effectively for enforcement. Info: (307) 739-3399. Canoes, pontoon boats, and small powerboats can be rented at Signal Mountain or Colter Bay marinas on Jackson Lake. Boaters will have to register their craft at the Moose Visitorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Center, where more information is available in one of the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s newest and coolest visitorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; centers. Naturally, a host of floating, fishing, kayaking, canoeing, sailboating, and scenic concessionaires operate by permit within the park, all researched by going online at www.nps.gov/grte.

Bridger-Teton National Forest Class III and IV whitewater on the Snake River begins at West Table and runs eight miles through the Snake River Canyon. Self-registration, while not required, is available at West Table. This section is crowded and dangerous at times. Check regulations and abilities before setting out, especially on this section of the Snake. Permits are required. Scenic float waters that also hold sport fish include the South Fork of the Snake. On the Web: www.snakeriverfund.org. Info: (307) 734-6773. Other rivers in the area offer everything from serene scenery to challenging rapids. On the Web: www.fs.fed.us/r4/btnf. Everything you wanted to know about recreating on regional and national federal land. Or call (307) 739-5500 for information on running the Buffalo Fork, Gros Ventre, Hoback, or Greys rivers. Other lakes in the area: Slide Lake, east of Jackson (windsurfing, sailboats, paddle craft); Palisades Reservoir at Alpine Junction (power and sailboats). â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide

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Touring Wyoming’s Alpine Lakes

Photos courttesy O.A.R.S.; Headline photo: Wade McKoy / Wilderness Ventures

SEA KAYAKING

Mount Moran towers on the horizon, enticing sea kayakers who paddle into Moran Bay on Jackson Lake.

ea kayaking the alpine lakes of Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks promises an unusual mix of tranquility and excitement. And the opportunity to spot native trout, majestic birds of prey, and perhaps even the likes of bears or wolves is driving a growing contingent of avid paddlers to board these sleek high-tech kayaks. “You could go anywhere: Baja, Maine, the San Juan Islands, Alaska – our lake kayaking experiences are just as good,” said Aaron Pruzan of Rendezvous River Sports, a complete paddle sports store, instruction enterprise, and kayak tour company. One classic trip, for example, leads paddlers into the remote Shoshone Lake in Yellowstone National Park. The three-day excursion launches from Lewis Lake boat ramp. Paddlers follow the shoreline’s fields, forests, and hot pools to the inlet. After navigating a few miles of small river channel, boaters glide into Shoshone Lake. “There are no motorboats once you leave Lewis Lake,” said Pruzan. “The remoteness, the quiet, the hiking in Shoshone Geyser Basin – it’s sublime, subtle.” Boaters experience the protected thermal areas on Yellowstone Lake’s West Thumb shoreline. Restricted to paddle craft only, the waters of Shoshone Lake ensure a singular peace and quiet. Jackson Lake is one such place, yet the stunning Teton landscape easOther lakes, beautiful as they are, host a variety of craft and may yield a ily overshadows any distracting company. Forty square miles and numerless isolated experience with nature. ous put-ins provide a variety of day-trip options.

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Don’t Spread Aquatic Nuisance Species Racing across the wild natural resources of North America, a horrifying invasion of aquatic nuisance and invasive species is creating environmental destruction. Rapidly growing aquarium weeds thoughtlessly discarded into local waterways—as well as dozens of exotic shellfish, snail, and fish species that have arrived and have been poured mostly into the Great Lakes as foreign shipping ballast—are choking out native species. Recreational boaters, hikers, canoeists, kayakers, hunters, rafters, and campers can unknowingly pick up and relocate everything from the tiny New Zealand mud snail, zebra and quagga mussels to strands of Eurasian milfoil, hydrilla and water hyacinth aquatic grasses and hundreds of other invasives.

Those prepared to camp can choose from among a dozen backcountry campsites. But hiring an experienced outfitter almost guarantees a memorable experience, as proven by O.A.R.S., a veteran company in the kayak-tour business. O.A.R.S. client Amanda Arnold’s posts typify clients’ experiences: “To camp on an island right under the Tetons was just wonderful! We loved traveling into the backcountry with guides who knew what they were doing. It was nice that everything was planned for us, where we would camp, what we would eat.” The Tetons remain just as impressive in the rear-view mirror, however, for paddlers who head back up to America’s first national park to traverse

A growing number of western states are now moving ahead quickly with programs in education, prevention, and legal prohibition dealing with these deadly aquatic nuisance species. Idaho and Wyoming are the latest entrants and join Arizona, Utah, Colorado, and Montana. Before launching any watercraft, clean, inspect, and dry equipment that is wet from previous trips. Scrub wading boots, Aqua Sox, and wader gear. Put watercraft, trailers, ropes, and anchors through approved hotwater power washes. Check each planned travel state for its requirements. Internet web sites for state game and fish departments have the latest information to stop aquatic invasives. More info: www. gf.state. wy.us/ fish/AIS/ Decal. — Paul Bruun

Again, the absence of motorized craft adds to the venture’s sublimity. “In two days we can access Flat Mountain Arm,” Pruzan continued. “It’s really pretty, with amazing views of the Absaroka Range, the Trident Peaks, Stevenson and Doane.” A full circumnavigation of Yellowstone Lake’s roadless shoreline, from Sedge Creek Bay to West Thumb, takes five to seven days. The five-day version involves cutting across the imposing open water of the South Arm. A guide can help. “It’s a pretty significant crossing,” said Pruzan. “At The Promontory we assess the weather. If there are impending thunderstorms we don’t do that crossing.”

The Tetons remain just as impressive in the rear-view mirror for paddlers who head to Yellowstone to traverse the biggest lake of them all. the biggest lake of them all, Yellowstone Lake. With shorelines so remote, and wildlife so complete, many outdoor enthusiasts consider the region the center of the recreational universe. Yellowstone Lake, a scenic two-hour drive from Jackson, is raw wilderness. At 7,732 feet above sea level, Yellowstone Lake rests a thousand feet higher than Jackson Lake and claims three times the acreage, its 136 square miles lapping against 110 miles of shoreline. Boaters can probe these waters safely along the shores of West Thumb. A short paddling excursion offered by O.A.R.S. begins here. “Our clients cherish a break from driving though the park,” said Steve Markle of O.A.R.S. “Getting out of the car for an active, three-hour guided kayaking tour is easy – and a real treat. Being on the water with friends or family, and off the crowded boardwalks, gives people a uniquely active perspective on the geothermal features of the park.” Floating along the shoreline speckled with thermals and wildlife is both peaceful and exciting. And the shoreline need never end. Sea kayaking easily takes people further, out beyond the boardwalks, into the backcountry. “It’s a great one-night if people want to get in the backcountry a little ways,” said Pruzan. “We go along the south shore of West Thumb, through The Narrows, and around Breeze Point to a really nice campsite. Not many power boats in that zone.” w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m

Early mornings are less risky, as with all crossings on the lake. But even the best-laid plans sometimes get scattered by Mother Nature. The Jekyll-to-Hyde transformation of a body of water under strong winds can be both frightening and exhilarating. But the boats are designed to handle wind and rough water, and in the hands of the willing and skilled it can be an adrenaline-fueled success. “How big the waves can get is pretty impressive,” said Pruzan. “Being in a 20-foot tandem sea kayak and to have the waves pick up the whole bow, doing surf-style launches on those windward beaches–it’s exciting.” The sheer sporting nature of sea kayaking aside, the landscape’s the thing. Yellowstone’s and Jackson Hole’s wildness and purity are equally prized among sea kayakers. “We’ve seen elk and moose swimming, that’s pretty cool,” said Pruzan. “And fleets of pelicans flying in formation at one of the world’s largest pelican breeding grounds, that’s an amazing sight in the sky. And, of course, watching the Minute Man geyser go off.” The end of the Southeast Arm of Yellowstone Lake is about as far away from people as you can get in the Lower 48. “In the heart of August, the peak of the busiest season, you get down there and you don’t see anybody,” noted Pruzan. “Not a single other person the whole time. Pretty amazing.” — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide

OVERNIGHT KAYAK TOURS ON JACKSON LAKE “I would trade a dozen nights in a 4-star hotel for one more night on Jackson Lake.”

Best way to see the Tetons and a great value! • Friday & Sunday departures • 1 or 2 nights catered camping (tents provided) on an idyllic island camp • All kayaking gear included • Expert guides & delicious meals provided • Ideal for all ages 4+ • Limited to 12 people/trip! •

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Western family fun

Photos: Bob Woodall / Triangle C Ranch

HORSEBACK RIDING

Pack trips take riders deep into a wilderness of solitude full of life.

There’s west, and there’s The West. Not a direction, mind you, but

a place steeped in history and cowboy lore. Images of it flow into your mind like a flash flood in a Western movie. Gunfights at high noon, wagon trains stretched across the high plains, John Wayne hunting down the bad guys, and the cowboy astride his horse, riding into the sunset. Well, here you are in the West, so why not connect with the lore of the past by throwing your leg over the back of a trusty steed and heading for the hills. Although loping off into the horizon may not be on your agenda, finding a horse to mount and ride couldn’t be easier. No matter where the Western visitor travels, trail rides are available. And there are many ways to indulge that wanderlust. The simplest is a two-hour ride. If that leaves you hankering for more, consider half-day or full-day rides. For the ultimate Western experience, though, sign on for an overnight or multi-day pack trip. The ultimate cowboyup experience? How about a full week at a dude ranch! “You’re in Wyoming,” said outfitter Shane Scott of Jackson Hole Trail Rides. “You can’t not get on a horse when in Wyoming, so amble on over to Snow King Mountain where, as you ride up the trail, the entire Jackson Hole valley is spread out below. And we have gentle horses.” “It is good Western family fun,” said Laura Child of the A-OK Corral. “Jackson Hole is known for its cowboy and mountain man heritage and that is the way they saw it, so by going on a horseback ride you can step back in time and see it like they would have.”

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Rider and horse rest amidst alpine splendor.

Never been on a horse? “Not a problem,” said Marilyn Dahle of Teton Village Trail Rides. “Seventy-five percent of our riders have never been on a horse; it’s fun to take inexperienced people and see the big smiles on their faces and the satisfaction when they learn to ride. The thrill of just being on the back of a horse,” she said, “is part of the Western adventure that people are after.” “Agreed,” noted the late Cameron Garnick of the Triangle C Dude Ranch. But that’s not all. “You can see much more,” he pointed out, “because you are not having to watch the trail. You can look around at the 360-degree view, enjoy the smell of the sage, the sounds of the forest, listen to streams, and drink in the landscape—and physical limitations can be overcome.” Traveling at 4-5

Now that you’re longing to hit the trail, what’s next? Well, dress the part. You don’t need to go out and dude yourself up in full cowboy regalia, but a few items will make the ride more enjoyable. Cowboy boots are best, although any closed-toed shoes are fine. Sandals are not recommended. Long pants and a hat are advisable, and because the weather can change rapidly here in the real West, bring a raincoat. Also on the short list are insect repellant, sunscreen, sunglasses, water bottle, camera, and binoculars. Next, decide how much time you really have for spending in the saddle. Like most outfitters, the AOK Corral, Teton Village Trail Rides, and Scott’s Jackson Hole Trail Rides offer a variety of options, ranging from one hour to all-day rides. If that’s not enough, they also offer overnight and three- and six-day pack trips, as well as fishing trips to the Yellowstone River and the Gros Ventre Mountains. In Teton Village hop on a horse or covered wagon and ride off to a chuckwagon dinner cookout. Campfire cookouts come complete with a singing cowboy serenading diners and campers by a fire under the star-filled sky. If a couple days in the saddle have not reined in your desire for an Old West vacation, consider a stay at a dude ranch, the ultimate Western experience. In the 1880s the term “dude” was applied to dressed-up city slickers, especially to Easterners vacationing in the West and who affected elaborate “Wild West” getups as paying visitors at a “dude ranch.” While some places call themselves “guest” ranches nowadays, seek out ones that have not dropped the “dude” from their name: those will be the ranches offering the most authentic experience. A proper dude ranch regales its guests with the romance of the West for a full week. Dudes are pampered in a rustic setting with a full plate of activities, including daily trail rides, cookouts, campfires, Western sing-alongs, and rodeos. Ranches tailor their weeks for singles, couples, families, and groups. You’re smack dab in the middle of The West, so take advantage of it! Whether it’s for two hours or a whole week. Saddle up—and happy trails to you!

Dudes are pampered in a rustic setting with a full plate of activities, including daily trail rides, cookouts, campfires, Western sing-alongs, and rodeos.

Camp cooking provides food for body and soul.

miles an hour, horses can cover lots of territory, and in a short time riders can be deep into the mountains. Plus, “you are doing it the way it was done by Indians, mountain men, and cowboys,” said Garnick.

— Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide

Scott’s Jackson Hole Trail Rides On Snow King Mountain

Celebrating Jackson's 100th!

• Hourly trail rides - Beautiful views • Located at 330 E. Snow King Ave. • Only riding stable in town - within walking distance of the Town Square • June thru September • Riding lessons by appointment • Fall hunting horses available • Long & short term horse leases available

307-733-6992 www.jhtrailrides.com w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m

Take in the fabulous views from the back of a horse!

HORSEBACK TRAIL RIDES Cowboy fun for the entire family! We offer rides for... 1 hr • 2 hr • 1/2 day • All day Over night pack trips. Only 15 minutes south of Jackson

307-733-6556

www.horsecreekranch.com aok@wyoming.com Permitted by BTNF Equal Opportunity Service Provider

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Crossing the DuNoir River, Photo: Bob Woodall / Triangle C Ranch

Adventure Directory

ALPINE SLIDE, BUNGEE TRAMPOLINE, MINI GOLF GRAND TARGHEE RESORT 18-hole disk golf course. 1-800-TARGHEE pg 27 JACKSON HOLE BUNGEE TRAMPOLINE Soar through the air on the exhilarating Bungee Trampoline! Purchase activity tickets in advance online at www.jacksonhole.com pg 25 AERIAL ADVENTURE COURSE Opening mid-June 2014. Come experience a new type of adventure on this elevated obstacle course. Great for kids and adults alike, the Aerial Adventure Course is a network of zip lines, balance beams, cargo nets and other challenges – all suspended 25 feet above the ground. www.jacksonhole.com pg 25 TETON VILLAGE 10-HOLE FRISBEE GOLF Course starts at Jackson Hole Sports in Teton Village. Course is free, maps, info and discs available in the shop below the Bridger Gondola. 307-739-2687 pg 25 SNOW KING MOUNTAIN offers a wide range of summer recreation activities including the alpine slide, mini-golf course, and bungee trampolines. www.snowkingmountain.com pg 21

ART – APPAREL – GIFTS – JEWELRY – TOYS JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING BAGGIT WESTERN BOUTIQUE is a contemporary Western clothing boutique featuring an extraordinary array of fashionable clothing for women, fabulous concho belts & accessories, famous Anna Konya skirts, retro styles, unique leather vests and jackets, & great tapestry blanket jackets & vests. baggitjacksonhole.com (307) 733-1234, 35 West Broadway, Jackson pg 19 DANSHELLEY JEWELERS Wyoming’s Finest Jewelry Experience since 1976! From diamonds & elk ivory, to Teton & wildlife originals & distinctive wedding sets. This gallery transcends the ordinary! Downtown in Gaslight Alley, just off the Town Square. www.DanShelley.com 125 N. Cache. 307-733-2259 pg 3 HINES GOLDSMITHS Since 1970 Exclusive Designers of the Teton Jewelry Collection from exquisite gold & Diamond pave to sterling silver; handmade gold & silver charms, handetched crystal & barware w/the Tetons, Wyoming Bucking Bronco & wildlife. 80 Center Street, east side of town square. www.hinesgold.com 307-733-5599 pg 9 JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo: jerky, salami, smoked roast, steaks & burger. Elk: steaks, burgers & jerky. Pick up your steak for the BBQ. Gift packs smoked trout & more. WE SHIP! Free Samples south of town in Smith’s Plaza, 800-543-6328 / 7334159. www.jhbuffalomeat.com pg 68 JACKSON HOLE RESORT STORE The official logo store of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Your source for logo apparel & gifts on the east side of the Jackson Town Square. 307-734-6045 pg 25 TETON TOYS Best selection of toys and games in the region with a huge play area for the kids! Located on the Town Square inside of Lee's Tees. 307-200-6066 www.tetontoys.com pg 19 TETON VILLAGE A variety of shops offer apparel, sports equipment, gifts, and equipment rentals. Throughout the summer season Teton Village hosts several art and antique shows. For a list pick up the Free Village Mix brochure or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com or call 1-866-749-4077 pg 25 WOOL AND WHISKEY The official men’s apparel store of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Stop by for a swig of fine whiskey while enjoying your manly shopping experience. www.jacksonhole.com 307-732-4080 pg 25

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BIKING - CAMPING - FISHING - HIKING CODY & PARK COUNTY TRAVEL COUNCIL Fishing on the Shoshone River and in the Absaroka Mountains. For full listing go to www.yellowstonecountry.org 1-800-390-2639. pg 31 BOARD ROOM OF JACKSON HOLE Skateboards, longboards, skate shoes, etc. Hats, shirts, denim, sandals, shorts, 60-plus local artists,and brands. Mens, women's and youth. www.BoardroomJacksonHole.com, 34 South Glenwood Ave. 307-733-8327 pg 41 FAT TIRE TOURS Guided mountain bike adventures for all ability levels. Exclusive lift access to Snow King Mountain, the Elk Refuge, and shuttles to Shadow Mountain, and Mosquito Creek. 520 West Broadway 307-733-5335 pg 49 GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Mountain bike/downhill bike rentals, 46 miles of multi-use trails for biking, hiking and horseback riding. A variety of downhill riding from top of chairlift. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 27 GRAND TETON FLY FISHING We specialize in guided fishing trips to Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks, Snake, Green, New Fork and Salt Rivers. We have a full service fly shop without the attitude, please stop in at 225 W. Broadway, Jackson, (307)690-0910, www.grandtetonflyfishing.com pg 53 JD HIGH COUNTRY OUTFITTERS Extensive selection of brand name products for any outdoor pursuit. Hand-crafted flies, Camping gear, apparel, shoes & superior service. On the Square in Jackson. 307-733-3270. www.jdhcoutfitters.com PG 5 HOBACK SPORTS Jackson's premier full service bike and outdoor store. Professional staff to rent, repair, fit, and accessorize your bike. Hiking shoes and accessories; including bear spray. www.hobacksports.com, 520 West Broadway 307-733-5335 pg 49 JACKSON HOLE’S GENERAL STORE Pickup last minute needs or special treats for your day of adventure. Full espresso bar, ice cream, milk shakes and more! Bear spray and other outdoor gear available. www.jacksonhole.com 307-732-4090 pg 25 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS In the Bridger Center, Teton Village, is your one-stop shop for an active summer outing. Sportswear, shoes, accessories & resort wear for the entire family. Bike rentals for the entire family. Free Teewinot lift access with full day rentals at Jackson Hole Sports. www.jacksonhole.com 307-739-2687 pg 25 RENDEZVOUS RIVER SPORTS The best selection of paddling equipment in the West. Canoes, kayaks, paddle boards & rafts from leading companies. Rentals, demos & lessons. Count on RRS for all your paddling needs. We ship equipment around the world. www.jacksonholekayak.com, 945 W.Broadway, Jackson, 307-733-2471 pg 57 SNOW KING MOUNTAIN offers a wide range of summer recreation activities including the alpine slide, scenic lift rides, horseback rides, paragliding, family photos, mini-golf course, and bungee trampolines. www.snowkingmountain.com pg 21 TETON VILLAGE Several Outdoor stores in Teton Village rent, sell and service bicycles as well as outdoor gear, clothing etc. to outfit you for any adventure. Pick up the Village Mix brochure or on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com. pg 25 TETON VILLAGE SPORTS Bike Rentals, paddleboards, Grand Fishing Guides, apparel and gear all available in store and online www.tetonvillagesports.com 307-732-4058 pg 25 TRIANGLE C RANCH 3-6 day horse-pack, fishing, covered wagon & hunting trips into the Absaroka & Wind River Mountains. www.thundermountainoutfitters.com, 800-6614928 or 307-455-2225 pg 65 WESTBANK ANGLERS Home to Jackson Hole’s most experienced & seasoned fly fishing guides. Full & 1/2 day trips, beginner to experts. Snake, Green, New Fork & South Fork Rivers & Yellowstone National Park. Most complete selection of flies & tackle available. Retail store on the Teton Village Road, just North of the Aspens. www.WestBank.com 307733-6483 or 800-922-3474 pg 53

TETON VALLEY, IDAHO HABITAT HIGH ALTITUDE PROVISIONS Intergalictic headquarters of all things pow, dirt, and style. Your quest for the Teton lifestyle is understood here. Think HABITAT for bike, snow, fish, and mountain style. Main level of the Colter Building, 18 N Main St, Driggs, Idaho 208-354-7669 http://ridethetetons.com pg 28

PINEDALE, WYOMING GREAT OUTDOOR SHOP Make your Wind River adventure inforgettable! Specializing in the finest oudoor equipment with guided fishing trips, shuttles, and rentals, our knowledgeable staff assists with trip-planning to ensure a memorable experience. 332 West Pine, Pinedale, 307-367-2440, greatoutdoorshop.com pg 35 PINEDALE With over 1,300 lakes including Wyoming's second largest, Fremont Lake and incredible fly fishing on the New Fork and Green River. Go to www.visitpinedale.or pg 35

BOATING, SCENIC & WHITEWATER CODY, WYOMING PARK COUNTY TRAVEL COUNCIL Whitewater on the Shoshone River. For full listing go to www.yellowstonecountry.org 1-800-390-2639. pg 31

JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING JACKSON HOLE KAYAK SCHOOL We teach kayaking, canoeing, rafting & SUP – on the Snake & Hoback Rivers, Slide Lake &Yellowstone Lake. Half-day to four day lessons or tours & more ways to have fun on the water than anywhere on the planet. We maintain a low 4-to-1 student to instructor ratio for all skill levels. www.jacksonholekayak.com, 945 W.Broadway, Jackson, 307-733-2471 pg 57 JENNY LAKE BOATING We offer shuttle service across Jenny Lake to access beautiful Cascade Canyon, Hidden Falls, and Inspiration Point. Hour long guided boat tours also run through the day. Or enjoy the lake on your own with a canoe or kayak rental. 307734-9227 jennylakeboating.com pg 55 O.A.R.S. Join O.A.R.S. for a kayaking tour on Yellowstone Lake in Yellowstone National Park or a rafting and kayaking adventure in Grand Teton National Park. www.oars.com/wyoming pg 59 RENDEZVOUS RIVER SPORTS The best selection of paddling equipment in the West. Service-oriented staff specializes in providing precisely what you need for your paddling adventures. Kayaks, stand up paddle boards, rafts & canoes from leading companies. Lessons, tours, rentals. Rivers & lakes – whitewater & scenic www.jacksonholekayak.com, 945 W.Broadway, Jackson, 307-733-2471 pg 57 SANDS WILDWATER RIVER TRIPS In our 5th decade, our boatmen have a deep knowledge of every turn, rapid, & current. We've taken tens of thousands of people safely down river, including the President of the United States. Variety of scenic & whitewater trips, breakfast & overnight trips. 307-733-4410/800-358-8184 pg 54 SOLITUDE FLOAT TRIPS We offer Snake River float trips that are 100% inside Grand Teton National Park. Each trip includes information on the National Park and Jackson Hole's wildlife, history, geology, and any special interest you may want to explore. 888704-2800 solitudefloattrips.com pg 54

CHAIRLIFTS, TRAM – GONDOLA GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Stay and play! Come enjoy a comfortable high alpine mountain getaway with lodging both on-mountain & in Teton Valley. See stunning Teton views and enjoy scenic chairlift rides, biking, hiking, horseback riding, fly fishing, and mountainside dining. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 27 JACKSON HOLE AERIAL TRAM Ride 4,139’ above the valley to 10,450’ and the alpine timberline environment. Take in the 360 degree panorama view into Idaho and the Tetons. Reservations not required. Purchase tickets in advance at www.jacksonhole.com and save $6. 307-739-2654 pg 25 JACKSON HOLE BRIDGER GONDOLA Ride 3,000’ above the valley to 9,095’ to the Bridger Restaurant. Cocktails & appetizers on “The Deck,” open June 22 – September 12, 2014. CLOSED SATURDAYS and private events. Fine dining at the Couloir Restaurant. Ride FREE 4:30-10p.m. 2-for-1 Happy Hour, 4:30-6:00 307-739-2654 pg 25 SNOW KING MOUNTAIN Overlook Jackson Hole and take in the best view of the Tetons from the top of Snow King Scenic Chairlift. Hike or bike on network of trails. www.snowkingmountain.com pg 21 TEEWINOT CHAIRLIFT Ride the chairlift with your bike or on foot to access miles of single track for all types of riders & hiking trails into Grand Teton NP. Tickets (free with rental) & bike rentals at JH Sports in the Bridger Center, at the base of the lift. 307-7392687 pg 25

CLIMBING WALLS & GUIDES GRAND TARGHEE CLIMBING WALL Experience the fun and challenge of sport climbing at the base area. Our staff will help coach you to the top of our specially designed climbing wall. pg 27 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN GUIDES Since 1968 Offering guided climbs and rock climbing instruction in the Tetons, Winds, Beartooths, Red Rocks, Moab & Indian Creek and City of Rocks. 800-239-7642 www.jhmg.com pg 45 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT CLIMBING WALL A variety of climbs from easy to complex. pg 25 SNOW KING TETON BOULDER PARK pg 21

HORSEBACK RIDING & PACK TRIPS A-OK CORRAL Come saddle up for a great outdoor adventure! We offer one hour, two w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m

hour, half day, and full day horseback rides. Located only 15 minutes south of town. www.horsecreekranch.com 307-733-6556 pg 61 GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons, where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Go horseback riding in our panoramic backcountry. Call 1-800TARGHEE pg 27 CODY & PARK COUNTY TRAVEL COUNCIL Riding in Wapiti Valley & the Absaroka Mountains. Full listing www.yellowstonecountry.org 1-800-390-2639. pg 31 SCOTT’S JACKSON HOLE TRAIL RIDES Experience a horseback tour and a taste of the Old West, with beautiful views of the 'Jackson Hole Valley' & the Grand Tetons. Located within walking distance of Jackson's Town Square~at the base of Snow King Mountain. Hourly rides. Over 40 years experience. 307-733-6992, www.jhtrailrides.com pg 61 SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE Riding in the Wind River & Wyoming Ranges. Full listing – www.sublettechamber.com or PinedaleOnline.com 888-285-7282 pg 65 TETON VILLAGE TRAIL RIDES Take a horseback ride on the Historic Snake River Ranch with a real cowboy. Hourly rides. Quality mountain horses. Next to Teton Village. TetonVillageTrailrides.com, 307-733-2674 pg 61 TRIANGLE C RANCH 3-6 day horse-pack, fishing, covered wagon & hunting trips into the Absaroka & Wind River Mountains. www.thundermountainoutfitters.com, 800-6614928 or 307-455-2225 pg 65

LODGING CODY, WYOMING BUFFALO BILL’S CODY/YELLOWSTONE COUNTRY Information center, 836 Sheridan Av., 800-393-2639 www.yellowstonecountry.org pg 31

GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Stay and play! Come enjoy a comfortable mountain getaway with lodging both on-mountain & in Teton Valley. See stunning Teton views and enjoy scenic chairlift rides, biking, hiking, horse-back riding, fly fishing, and mountainside dining. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 27 & 65

JACKSON, WYOMING PAINTED BUFFALO INN We provide affordable lodging 3 blocks from the Town Square in downtown Jackson. A swimming pool, sauna, free Wi-Fi and a continental breakfast are just a few conveniences we offer. 400 W. Broadway, www.paintedbuffaloinn.com 800-288-3866. pg 65 SUPER 8 Experience true Western hospitality in the heart of Jackson Hole. Complimentary breakfast, evening popcorn, free wireless internet, microwave/refrigerator. Custom packages & group rates. www.jacksonholesuper8.com, 750 S Hwy 89, Jackson, 800-800-8000/307-733-6833 pg 65

PINEDALE VISIT PINEDALE Friendly lodging, western hospitality, affordable rates and amenities at any of our clean hotels, motels, or cabins will meet your travel needs. Pinedale's lodges fill up fast, so consider booking early. www.visitpinedale.org/stay pg 65

TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING HOSTEL A friendly lodge with private & shared bunk rooms, all have private baths & maid service. Renovated in 2011. Rates: Low season $44-$69, high season $79-$99 for private rooms & $18-$36 for shared bunk room. At the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, in Teton Village, Wyoming. www.thehostel.us 307-733-3415 pg 65 JACKSON HOLE RESORT LODGING Conveniently located next to the Teton Village Market, lodging & accommodation for all seasons. Affordable condos to luxury vacation homes, for family getaways and reunions. 800-443-8613, 307-733-3990 pg 25 TETON VILLAGE A wide variety of lodging choices from high end to very affordable are available in Teton Village. Pick up the Free Village Mix brochure in Teton Village or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com or call 1-866-749-4077 pg 25

WIND RIVER VALLEY, WYOMING TRIANGLE C DUDE RANCH Spend 2 nights and 3 days at the historic Triangle C Ranch, on the banks of the Wind River and just 30 miles from Grand Teton National Park. Beautifully designed with Western furnishings and attention to the cowboy way of life. Stay includes meal & activities. 3737 Highway 26, Dubois, 800-661-4928, trianglec.com. pg 65

MEDICAL SERVICES & EMERGENCY CARE ST. JOHN’S FAMILY HEALTH & URGENT CARE Walk-ins welcome. X-ray & laboratory services on-site so doctors can assess & treat your condition promptly. Open extended hours, evenings & weekends. In the Smith’s Plaza, 1415 S. Hwy 89, 307-739-8999 pg 11 ST. JOHN’S EMERGENCY DEPARTMENT Staffed 24/7 by board-certified emergency medicine physicians. St. John’s offers comprehensive hospital care including diagnostic imaging, certified Clinical Laboratory & Surgery Center services. 625 E. Broadway, 307-733-3636 pg 11

MUSIC, ENTERTAINMENT, WEDDINGS, CONVENTIONS & PARTIES CODY, WYOMING PARK COUNTY TRAVEL COUNCIL Facilities for any function, from guest ranches to hotels. yellowstonecountry.org 1-800-390-2639. pg 31

GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 27

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Adventure Directory GRAND TARGHEE MUSIC FESTIVALS Great food, vendors, games, part of our summer music festivals. Tent camp in our beautiful forest during events. It starts with the 10th Annual Targhee Fest – July 18-20 and 27th Annual Bluegrass Festival – August 8-10. www.grandtarghee.com pg 27 GRAND TETON MUSIC FESTIVALS Each summer GTMF showcases musicians from the nation’s top ensembles in seven weeks of orchestra and chamber music. July 4 – August 17, 2013. (307) 733–1128 or gtmf.org pg 25

JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT Full service resort in Teton Village. Hotels, restaurants, lounges, recreation. 307-733-2292 pg 25 JACKSON HOLE PLAYHOUSE & SADDLE ROCK SALOON Experience Rowdy Western Theater with Paint Your Wagon, May 31 - October 4, 2014. All inclusive dinner/theater package, drinks, fresh organic greens, locally sourced dinner entrées. 145 West Deloney Avenue, Jackson, 307-733-6994, jacksonplayhouse.com pg 19

McDONALD’S® OF JACKSON HOLE Great Tastes, Affordable Choices. Featuring McDonald's freshly prepared breakfast & regular menu favorites. Wi-Fi availability for your convenience. 5:00am-midnight daily. 1110 W. Broadway Hwy 22. pg 17 MEAD RANCH NATURAL BEEF For over 100 years, our family raised the highest quality Angus beef in the shadows of Tetons. Grass-fed beef on conservation land, steroid free, antibiotic free, humanely processed, dry aged. Ask for it at finer Jackson Hole restaurants & grocers. 307-734-3911 PG 44 SNAKE RIVER BREWERY & RESTAURANT The Great American Beer Festival’s Small Brewery of The Year, 2000 & 2001. Serving tasty brews, burgers, delicious pizzas, pastas & sandwiches. Free WiFi. From 11:30 am to Midnight, 7 days a week. 7392337. www.snakeriverbrewing.com pg 5 TETON VILLAGE has a wide array of food and drink establishments scattered throughout. Pick up the Village Mix brochure for the listings, or on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com 866-749-4077 pg 25

LEADERSHIP ADVENTURES provides accelerated experiential learning to help them improve leadership skills with greater speed, retention, and upon-return impact. myleadershipadventures.com pg 15 TETON VILLAGE Throughout the summer season Teton Village hosts musical performances. For a list pick up the Free Village Mix brochure or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com or www.jacksonhole.com for events. pg 25 NOTEWORTHY MUSIC BOOKING AGENCY Thirty years in Jackson Hole, impeccable references. Provides entertainment for all types of occasions. NoteWorthyMusicAgency.com Call Mike Calabrese 307-733-5459 pg 64

RODEO

PINEDALE, WYOMING

WILDLIFE, VISITOR CENTERS & MUSEUMS

SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE Facilities for any function, from guest ranches to hotels. Full listing: sublettechamber.com or PinedaleOnline.com, 888-285-7282 pg 65

PARAGLIDING JH PARAGLIDING Take a flight with the professional pilots from Jackson Hole Paragliding! Fly above the Rendezvous Mountain for an experience of a lifetime. Instruction available. Located on the first floor of the Bridger Center below the Bridger Gondola. For rates and reservations 307-739-2626 or visit www.jacksonhole.com pg 25 SNOW KING MOUNTAIN offers a wide range of summer recreation activities including paragliding. www.snowkingmountain.com pg 21

PHOTOGRAPHY & CAMERAS

CODY NITE RODEO Best of Buffalo Bill’s Wild West. All Rodeo Events. Nightly at 8:00, June 1– Aug. 31. Kid’s events, clowns, covered grandstand, free parking. Tickets available at the front gate & various businesses. 307-587-5155 or 800-207-0744 pg 33

SHOOTING JACKSON HOLE SHOOTING EXPERIENCE Whether a novice shooter or experienced marksman, we provide premier shooting instruction and customized experiences year round. Focus on safe and unparalled fun. www.ShootingInJH.com, 307-690-7921 pg 51

CO DY, WYO M I N G BUFFALO BILL DAM & VISITOR CENTER Open daily May 1-Sept. 30. Free admission, enjoy views from the top of the dam. The center includes exhibits, a theater, a self-guided audio tour, bookstore, & restrooms. www.BBDVC.org Located 6 miles west of Cody on way to Yellowstone. pg 33

D U BO I S, WYO M I N G NATIONAL BIGHORN SHEEP INTERPRETIVE CENTER Enjoyable & educational experience."Sheep Mountain,"photos & hands-on exhibits draw visitors into the majestic range & habits of these magnificent animals. Gift shop. 9am-8pm daily. 307-455-3429 pg 17

J AC K SO N H O LE, WYO M I N G J AC K SO N H O LE, WYO M I N G DD CAMERA CORRAL Jackson’s oldest full service camera store. Authorized dealer: Canon, Sony, Nikon, Leica, GoPro & Pentax. Binoculars, film, frames, & accessories. Friendly & knowledgeable staff. 2-hour film & digital processing. 60 So. Cache, across from Eddie Bauer. 307733-3831 pg 2 & 67 FOCUS PRODUCTIONS, INC. Publishers of Teton and Yellowstone Country Adventure Guide, Jackson Hole Skier & JH Dining Guide. Posters, postcards and commercial & editorial photography & stock photo library. 307-733-6995 www.focusproductions.com WILD BY NATURE GALLERY features the wildlife & landscape photography of Henry H. Holdsworth.T Behind the Wort Hotel, 95 West Deloney wildbynaturegallery.com 307-7338877 pg 39

RESTAURANTS & BARS GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING GRAND TARGHEE serves up a variety of fare at reasonable prices. Enjoy a locally inspired menu, serving up fresh enters with a mountainside views from the Branding Iron Grill. The Trap Bar & Grill is home to great food, spirits and local entertainment in a casual atmosphere. pg 27

JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING COULOIR AT JH MOUNTAIN RESORT Step off the Bridger Gondola 3,000’ above the valley at 9,095’ for fine dining at the Couloir Restaurant, a truly unique dining experience. Open evenings June 22-Sept 12. Closed Saturdays & private events. Cocktails & appetizers on the “Deck.” Ride FREE 4:30-10p.m. 307-739-2654 pg 25 JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo: jerky, salami, smoked roast, steaks & burger. Elk: steaks, burgers & jerky. Pick up your steak for the BBQ. Gift packs smoked trout & more. WE SHIP! Free Samples south of town in Smith’s Plaza, 800-543-6328 / 7334159. www.jhbuffalomeat.com pg 68 JACKSON HOLE DINING GUIDE This 96 page magazine is a compendium of menus from the areas restaurants, with index of food types, along with maps to restaurants. Pick up a copy at your lodge or view on line at www.focusproductions.com pg 50 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT At Tetpm Village, over 12 restaurants offer breakfast, lunch & dinner, from gourmet burgers, pizza to distinct American cuisine. pg 25 LIFT JACKSON HOLE A new restaurant in Jackson, LIFT is located on the quiet end of Jackson, the ‘SOBRO’ district (south of Broadway on Cache), at the base of Snow King Mountain. The restaurant boasts amazing views from the decks and roof top seating, no traffic, a rustic rock fireplace and comfort food for you & your family. 307-733-5438, liftjacksonhole.com pg 68

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WILDLIFE EXPEDITIONS OF TETON SCIENC SCHOOLS provides year-round wildlife viewing & natural history interpretation to anyone interested in close-up, ethical, viewing of Greater Yellowstone’s wild animals in their natural habitat. www.wildlifeexpeditions.org 877-404-6626, 307-733-2623 pg 39 JACKSON HOLE MUSEUM Exhibits capture the spirit & culture of the early days of Jackson Hole. It features an outstanding collection of American Indian artifacts, fur trade era tools & firearms, & items from the ranching & pioneer settlement era. In our new location 225 N. Cache. jacksonholehistory.org

P I N E DALE, WYO M I N G 79TH ANNUAL GREEN RIVER RENDEZVOUS July 10-13 Pinedale's historical reenactment brings together famous mountain men, Plains Indians, Father DeSmet and many others who played a pivotal role in opening commerce in the American west. Sunday, July 13, 1:00pm at 9888 US Hwy 191. pg 35 MUSEUM OF THE MOUNTAIN MAN Exhibit highlights include relics from the Rocky Mountain Fur Trade, Jim Bridger's rifle, Native American clothing, a Winchester firearms display, its 5000 BC Archaic Camp, and one of the oldest Shoshone Sheephorn Bows in existence. www.museumofthemountainman.com 307-367-4101 pg 35 SUBLETTE COUNTY VISITOR CENTER Convenient location on US HWY 191 with oversized parking, clean restrooms, maps, area information, free wireless, dining guides, lodging availability, videos, wildlife displays. 888-285-7282 www.sublettechamber.com pg 65

NOTEWORTHY MUSIC BOOKING AGENCY • The finest live music acts in the region • Jazz, Swing, Rock, Country, Solos, Duos, Trios & Big Band • Impeccable references Michael Calabrese • 307-733-5459 P.O. Box 289 • Wilson, WY 83014 E-mail: Noteworthy@blissnet.com

Lodging Directory Hostel

Grand Targhee Resort

Renovated in 2011. Enjoy a comfortable & inexpensive stay in Teton Village at the base of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. We have private rooms & beds in shared bunkrooms. Both options come with a private bathroom. High season: $79–$109. Low season: $45–$69. Bunk room:$20–37.

Grand Targhee offers convenient, comfortable, and flexible lodging both on-mountain and in Teton Valley. Whether you desire to be at the Resort or in Teton Valley, you have immediate access to the area’s summer adventures including mountain biking, horseback riding, rafting, fly fishing, and much more. Alta, Wyoming 83414 1-800-TARGHEE 307-353-2300 www.GrandTarghee.com

Box 583, Teton Village, Wyoming 83025 307-733-3415 www.thehostel.us, info@thehostel.us

Painted Buffalo Inn

Jackson Hole Super 8

Discover the color of a great vacation at the Painted Buffalo Inn. We offer comfortable rooms for the budget conscious traveler. Unwind in our sauna or indoor pool and wake up to a continental breakfast. Weʼre located 3 blocks from the town square with a shuttle stop on property. Mention this ad when booking and receive 5% off your stay. 400 West Broadway, Jackson, WY 83001 800-288-3866 / 307-733-4340 www.paintedbuffaloinn.com info@paintedbuffaloinn.com

Experience true Western hospitality in the heart of Jackson Hole. Just steps away from the free city bus, river rafting, and other recreation. Complimentary breakfast, evening popcorn, free wireless internet, microwave/refrigerator,cable TV with HBO and free local calls. Custom packages & group rates. 750 S Hwy 89, Jackson, WY 83001 800-800-8000 / 307-733-6833 www.jacksonholesuper8.com jacksonholesuper8@wyom.net

Triangle C Dude Ranch

Pinedale, Wyoming

Come spend 2 nights and 3 days at the historic Triangle C Ranch. On the banks of the Wind River, just 30 miles from Grand Teton National Park. We provide accommodations for every type of traveler. Beautifully designed with Western furnishings and attention to the cowboy way of life, we have a room perfect for you! Your stay includes meal and activities. Swap stories, ride the trail with real cowboys & girls and wake up the “Little Cowboy” in you.

In route to Jackson, Grand Teton National Park, and Yellowstone on Wyoming Centennial Scenic Byway...It’s a must for adventurers who want to experience the Wind River Mountains and Fremont Lake. Discover, explore, stay and play in Pinedale, Wyoming...it's all the civilization you need.

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HOTELS ~ MOTELS LODGES ~ RESORTS

LODGING INDEX

3737 Highway 26, Dubois, WY 82513 800-661-4928 trianglec.com, info@trianglec.com

Pinedale, Wyoming 82941 www.visitpinedale.org

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Buffalo Bill Dam Visitors Center

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Torrey Lake

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ADVENTURE GUIDE

BRIDGER-TETON

Star Va

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Union Pass

lley er Va en Riv r Gre Uppe

Alpine t

To Powell

ne ho os Sh

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e Snak

n nyo r Ca e iv R

Triangle C Ranch

26 89

Granite Hot Springs

bac k

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Shooting t JH Experience

Ven tre

tNational Museum of Wildlife Art t Spring Creek Ranch / Amangani

Hoback t A-OK Corral Junction t Á Ho

Palisades Res. Á CARIBOU

Gro s

Slide Lake

120

Mountain Country

ne nti Co

Teton Pass

26 Va lle y

NATIONAL

390

Wilson 23

tKelly

Westbank Anglers t

nd Ri ve r

Pa ss Ro ad

tTeton Science School

296 Á

Brooks Lake

Union

Teton Village

Green River

Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

9,658 feet

Togwotee Pass

Moose

BRIDGER-TETON NATIONAL FOREST Wi

26 89 191

tÁ

Boating

River Buffalo

Driggs

Moran

Leigh Lake Jenny Lake t Jenny Lake

JtAlta

tSignal Mountain Lodge

308 Á 72

FOREST

Yellows tone Outfitters Wagons West

ite

Teton Valley

Grand Targhee Resort

tJackson Lake Lodge

ek re

Tetonia

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Hi gh

Buffalo Bill Res.

er Riv

FOREST

ic cif Pa

hone Rive

NATIONAL

BRIDGER-TETON NATIONAL FOREST

Colter Bay Village

Wapiti Valley

14 16 20

SHOSHONE

Heart Lake

Henry’s Fo rk

tÁ

Mou

Grand 89 Teton 27 National Park Jackson

Sunlight Basin

roka

212

Beartooth Pass h M 10,940 ou nta ins 50

WYOMING

Snake River

South Entrance

Flagg Ranch

toot

Chie f Jo sep hS cen 46

Át Grant tVillage

S h os

ck Ro

tÁ

iv e

tÁ Victor

tÁ

East Entrance

Bear

a bs

Pahaske Tepee

Yellowstone Lake

West Thumb

FOREST

e re

To Greybull

Rive r

Lewis Lake

ls R Fal

IDAHO

Sw an

ar R iver

River Teton 33 55

Át

FOREST

Ashton

Fishing Bridge

Bridge tLake Bayt 21

Shoshone Lake

NATIONAL

Rexburg

To I d a h o F a l l s

Át Old Faithful

Lam

llo Ye

Át

TARGHEE

Át

Junction

Firehole

t Island Park

tMadison Á

Island Park Res.

w st o

r ive

14 West Yellowstone

Yellowstone National Park

West Entrance

t Canyon

Northeast Entrance

R ne

Henrys Lake

Norris

tÁ

llo Ye

tÁ

Át 19

NATIONAL

Cooke City

Tower Junction

Hebgen Lake

R iv

North Entrance

t Hot Springs

Teto n Ra ng

ison

M ad

iv e

287

Gardiner

t Mammoth Á

r ve Ri

FOREST

Highest Point In Montana.

To Billings

a rk

191

Granite Pk. 12,799 ft.

To Billings Red Lodge J 15

Ga lla tin NATIONAL

CUSTER

Gibb on

GALLATIN

eR ton ws llo Ye

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MONTANA

Fo rk

Át

So ut h

Big Sky

Ennis

To Livingston

To Bozeman

• MADISON • MORAN • FIREHOLE • GIBBON • TEEWINOT • ROOSEVELT LODGE • WASHBURN • JENNY LAKE • LEIGH LAKE • NORRIS • GALLATIN • WIND RIVER • ABSAROKA • WAPITI VALLEY

To Three Forks

Burnt Lake

Boulder Lake

Approximate milage between red dots

INFORMATION

BOZEMAN, MONTANA 406-586-5421 CODY, WYOMING 307-587-2297 DUBOIS, WYOMING 307-455-2556 GARDINER, MONTANA 406-848-7971 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK 307-739-3300 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING 307-733-3316 LIVINGSTON, MONTANA 406-222-0850 MEETEESE, WYOMING 307-868-2423 PINEDALE, WYOMING 307-367-2242 POWELL, WYOMING 307-754-3494 RED LODGE, MONTANA 406-446-1718 TETON VALLEY/DRIGGS, IDAHO 208-354-2500 WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA 406-646-7701 WIND RIVER VISITORS COUNCIL 800-645-6233 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 307-344-7381 Map design by Bob Woodall Copyright 2012 – Focus Productions

DUNRAVEN • WASHBURN • SNAKE RIVER • GROS VENTRE • TOGWOTEE PASS • GRAND TETONS • OLD FAITHFUL • PAHASKA • BUFFALO BILL • SHOSHONE • NEZ PERCE • HOBACK • BRIDGER

• CODY • DUBOIS • JACKSON HOLE • RED LODGE • MAMMOTH • GARDINER • PINEDALE • WYOMING • IDAHO • MONTANA • YELLOWSTONE •

SNOW KING • HAYDEN VALLEY • MOOSE • WILSON • TETON VILLAGE • DRIGGS • VICTOR • GRAND TARGHEE • BEARTOOTH • COOKE CITY • T E TO N & Y E L L OW STO N E A DV E N T U R E G U I D E 2 0 1 4

w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Gramd Prismatic Spring, Photo: Bob Woodall