ADVENTURE Guide 2019
GRAND TETON & YELLOWSTONE 101 Things To Do
Activities, events, scenic drives
Wildlife
America’s Serengeti
Resorts
Jackson Hole, Snow King, Grand Targhee
Photography Tips from the pros
Water Sports SUP, kayak, raft
Fishing
Angling for the wily cutthroat
Climbing
Because it’s there
Via Ferrata
Mountaineering the Iron Road
FREE
26 Years
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JEWELRY ORIGINALS 44 YEARS OF INSPIRATION AT 6000 FT. Gaslight Alley • Downtown Jackson Hole • 125 N.Cache
www.danshelley.com • info@danshelley.com •307.733.2259 ALL DESIGNS COPYRIGHTED
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CHO OSE YOUR OWN
GRAND ADVENTURE G E T $7 O F F Y O U R G R A N D A D V E N T U R E PA S S O R $1 0 O F F A FA M I LY PA S S * J AC K S O N H O L E . C O M * R AT E AVA I L A B L E O N L I N E O N LY
The Jackson Hole Grand Adventure Park delivers summer adventure for all in a majestic natural setting — just 12 miles from Jackson Hole on the way to Grand Teton National Park. Spend a day building your own adventure with activities that include riding the Aerial Tram, tackling our ropes course, soaring on the bungee trampoline, scaling the climbing wall and much more. Come experience a day’s worth of fun for the entire family. The park is open June 8 to Sept. 2, 2019, from 10:00 a.m to 6:00 p.m.
NATURE 26 30 30 31
101 Things To Do Wildlife Tours in Grand Teton & Yellowstone National Parks Photography Tips Bert Raynes – Nature Yet Preserved Bear Safety Photo Etiquette Regarding Wildlife
RESORTS
RECREATION
86 92
Cody Jackson
89 90 92
Buffalo Bill Dam Buffalo Bill Center of the West JH Historical Society & Museum
48 50
What’s In Your Pack? Alpine Medical Advice
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Greater Yellowstone Area
8 24
TOWNS
MUSEUMS
PREPARATION MAP
34 40 44
Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Snow King Mountain Resort Grand Targhee Resort
19 20 22 32 52 54 56 58 62 66 74 78 80 82 84
Zipline at Sleeping Giant The TGR Experience Fall Arts Festival in Jackson Hole Scenic Flights Sea Kayaking Whitewater & Scenic Rafting Stand Up Paddle Boarding Mountain Biking Pathways Fly Fishing Climbing Via Ferrata Shooting Horseback Riding Rodeo in Jackson Hole
Publishers: Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy, dba Focus Productions, Inc. (fpi) Editors: Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall, Mike Calabrese Photo Manager: Eric Rohr Photo Editors: Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall, Eric Rohr Graphic Design: Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall, Janet Melvin Advertising Sales: Bob Woodall, Debra Snyder Distribution Manager: Mark Hassler focusgroup@focusproductions.com, 307-733-6995 Copyright 2019 by Focus Productions, Inc. P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, WY 83001. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publishers. Cover & Contents photos: Wade McKoy Biker: Quinn Trainer; SUP: Aaron Pruzan
Contributing Photographers: Chris Figenshau, Todd Glaser, James Kaiser, Jeffrey Kaphan, Florence McCall, Wade McKoy, Josh Metten, Patrick Nelson, Taylor Phillips, Baker Salsbury, Andrew Schrum, Eric Seymour, Isaac Spotts, Dustin Varga, John Waller, Bob Woodall.
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Contents
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101 THINGS TO DO
Vacation Adventures in Mountain Country
NATIONAL PARKS
Still America’s best idea. A single entrance fee used to gain access to both Grand Teton National Park (GTNP) and Yellowstone National Park (YNP). No more, so budget accordingly. Parks are parks for good reason: they’re loaded with awesome wildlife, rich flora, and magnificent landscape. The en-
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Photo courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort trance stations are not information booths, though; better to visit the many well-cached information centers found in the parks themselves and gateway towns. The folks queuing behind your vehicle will appreciate your efficiency and courtesy. Especially those shuttling a boatload of restless youngsters.
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The proprietor of Menor’s Ferry General Supplies checks on his potted flowers. This historic store still sells refreshments, local artisans goods, and displays items from the lives of the original homesteaders. Black bears may look friendly, but they’re wild and unpredictable, so give them plenty of space.
The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem (GYE), the largest intact ecosystem in the lower 48 states, includes a dozen mountain ranges along the Great Divide, the country’s first and largest national park and national forest, the farthest point from a road outside Alaska, and wild animals. Emphasis on wild. Continued page 10
Wade McKoy photos (both pages)
Big
playground up here in the Teton/Yellowstone region. Even the locals struggle over all the choices in this epic backyard. Visitors aren’t the only folks who dip into the guide you’re holding. And, like visitors, we’ll also stop by our first-rate visitor centers, libraries, bookstores, and restaurants to pick up new insights into our playground. Here’s an inspiring list for the listless.
The trail along Jenny Lake leads hikers to the many wonders of Cascade Canyon. Pictured: Sasha Bogdanovics. The Fall Arts Festival is a major Jackson Hole shindig. Don’t miss the QuickDraw art sale and auction that follows the exciting 90-minute spectacle. Pictured: Duke Beardsley.
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Fish on — Mountain country holds some of the best trout streams and lakes in the lower 48 states. Pictured: Jack Shaw. Whitewater rafting — The Snake, Green, Shoshone, Yellowstone, and Clark’s Fork rivers sport miles of whitewater action.
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Waterfalls—The 308-foot Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River is the granddaddy of the park’s many roadside water features, but a hike can reveal its more obscure dramatic torrents. In the Tetons, thousands of sightseers trek to Hidden Falls, which, for many, begins with a boat ride across glorious Jenny Lake. Smell the wild roses—The mountains are famous for a profusion of wildflowers. Some are tiny, especially the ones above timberline, so look closely. The show starts in late May and June, when dazzling displays of color chase the snowline as it recedes into the mountains. California had a banner bloom this year, our area produces them yearly. Old Faithful Inn—Of course the Old Faithful Geyser is on your must-see list, but don’t pass up the spectacular Old Faithful Inn. Well over 100 years old, rich in history, the inn is “considered the largest log structure in the world.” Smartphone App—Digitally explore the world's first national park by map or by topic of interest with a free download of the new NPS Yellowstone App. Discover the natural and cultural stories in context with their locations. Find the information you need about visitor centers, events, lodging, places to eat and shop, and services throughout the park.
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The NPS Yellowstone App is free and available on the App Store and on Google Play. Ranger Programs—From Ranger Adventure Hikes to Family Campfire Evenings to Stars Over Yellowstone, these programs offer something for the whole family. The park newspaper contains all the schedules. Online: nps. gov/yell/index.htm, go to Plan Your Visit. Photograph the sights—Digital, film, recorder, whatever. Everybody’s a pro out here. Get a long lens, too. Again, don’t ever approach wild animals! They can easily outrun humans and simply aren’t as fond of us as we are of them. See page 25.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Hiking—An almost endless array of trails radiate into the mountains. The only limits are your legs and longing. The views? You supply the adjectives. Camping—The great outdoors was made for camping. Get away from the car or motor home and rough it! Cook out on an open fire and sleep beneath the stars. Nothing like it under the sun, of course. Climb the Tetons—Climbing the Grand is often listed in the 100 Things To do In Your Life, and for a good reason. Despite a peak 7,000 feet above the valley, topping the tetonadventureguide.com
Wade McKoy (fish); Bob Woodall (raft)
Picnic—Hey, you’re in the land of countless settings for that outdoor table. Pick up some sammies, cookies, and drinks from grab-n-go establishments and head for the riverbanks, lakeshores, or scenic overlooks. Put the camera to good use on the scenery and your group celebrating life in the Rockies. Slow down and watch for wildlife—Both YNP and GTNP are home to bison, elk, deer, moose, grizzly and black bear, wolves, mountain lion, wolverine, osprey, eagles, and myriad small animals. Go early in the morning and keep your eyes peeled and, in many places, bear spray at the ready! Lamar and Hayden valleys in YNP are good bets for sighting bison, wolves, and grizzly bear. Moose frequent willowed bottomlands. Stay alert, though, even on strolls around park developments. And never approach or feed wildlife! Up your odds for great photos or experiences by taking a wildlife tour with qualified guides. Wildlife Tours—Jackson Hole is home to wildlife tour companies that can help reveal the region’s treasures for wildlife enthusiasts, photographers, and folks who simply want to soak up the area’s natural wonders. Tours range from part- to full-day excursions in both Grand Teton and Yellowstone parks and surrounding national forest. See page 24.
Grand, or any Teton peak, is attainable for anyone in good physical condition and among the right companions. Some of the world’s best guides and instructors live here. Mountain biking—Our frontcountry single-track trails on Teton Pass and in the Cache/Game Area, for example, are among the finest in the country. Detailed color maps at friendsofpathways.org. Pathways—Stroll with kids or friends, walk, ride a bike, rollerblade. Jackson Hole’s extensive pathway system rewards all users with a moving state of mind. This scenic artery system, coursing along 70 miles of the valley floor and still growing, is solid proof of a love affair with the outdoors. See page 94. R Park—The only non-profit, privately owned public site in the county, R Park depends on donors to help cover maintenance and programming costs but is without question a prize for everyone. Among its outreach activities: Kids to Parks Day on May 18; Wyoming Game and Fish Kids Fishing Day on June 1; and the starting point for the Teton Food Tour, a pedal-powered event working up and satisfying appetites along a route from the park to Teton Village on Sunday, July 28 (preregistration required—online at rpark.org). The R Park may be the community’s most popular gathering spot. It rests nearly up against the Wilson Snake River boat launch and the stunning pathways bridge arcing over the famous waters. Leaving the camera behind would be a mistake. Views of the river rushing below and the long expanse of the Teton Range warrant framing. Bulb-outs on the bridge allow for simply taking in the sights, too. The park, in another example of cooperative spirit, offers a passel of activities from the ground up, especially in summer. Visit rpark.org for pix, videos, and an events calendar. Skateboard Park—Concrete has its place, even in Jackson Hole. Very cool skateboard park, located on West High School Road, south of town and right next to the pathways system. Tennis courts, softball fields, picnic shelter and restrooms round out the complex.
GET WESTERN
Shooting—Certified pistol- and rifle-use instruction, skeet and trap shooting with shotguns, all at the Jackson Hole Gun Club site south of Jackson. Covered shooting area, two separate pistol bays, and a classroom. See page 88. Mountain man rendezvous—The 83rd Annual Green River Rendezvous, July 11-14, 2019, in Pinedale, Wyoming, is a pageant that educates visitors about the history of fur-trade era events. Rendezvous also take place throughout the summer in Jackson, Alpine, and West Yellowstone and are open to the public. Great places to find unique items. Or outfit yourself and join in the fun! Indian Pow-wows—This is Indian country, too, and perfect for a traditional Pow-wow. The most prominent one is the Annual Plains Indian Museum Pow-wow, June 15-16 this year, in Cody, Wyoming. Indian dancers try to catch the judges’ eyes with personal style, footwork falling on the beat of the music, and beautifully crafted dance attire. Numerous Pow-wows are held on the Wind River Indian Reservation throughout the summer. Online at https://windriver.org Heart Mountain Pilgrimage—The Heart Mountain Pilgrimage, July 25-27, sheds life and light on Heart Mountain’s profound place in U.S. and Japanese-American history. Held at the Heart Mountain WWII Interpretive Center, just 14 miles outside of Cody, Wyoming, the Pilgrimage seeks to introduce new generations to and remind an aging population of an indelible historic moment in U.S. history. Visit heartmountain.org for info on the center’s many programs Chuckwagon dinners and shows—Ranging from dinner under the Tetons at Dornan’s to polished performances showcasing cowboy musicians and theater in many of our mountain towns. Grab the young ones and board covered Conestoga wagons heading up a scenic canyon for an old-fashioned wrangler’s dinner and Western music show. Horseback trail rides and pack trips—You’re in the West, so what better way to experience it than astride a horse. Head to the hills for an hour, a day, or even a week. See page 82. Stagecoach rides—In Jackson Hole, a short stagecoach ride around downtown Jackson will light up the faces of young and old. From Roosevelt Lodge in YNP, stagecoaches, replicas of those used in early park days, course through four miles of sagebrush and flower-embroidered flats. Dude ranches—The quintessential Western vacation. From rustic yellowstoneadventureguide.com
Visit our website for more Jewelry, Glass, & Crystal
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In Jackson Hole, a short stagecoach ride around downtown Jackson will light up the faces of young and old. You’re in the West, so what better way to experience it than astride a horse. Pictured: Triangle C wranglers.
to polished, these weeklong immersions into the lore of the Old West are the perfect family getaway. Rodeo—The Old West rides into arenas nightly in Cody and several times a week in Jackson and West Yellowstone. Rodeos, like fireworks and parades, are also part and parcel of July 4th celebrations throughout the West. Shootout—The legendary Old West shootout is re-enacted nightly on the streets of Jackson and Cody. High street theatre for old and young. Visit a ghost town—Tour the abandoned gold-mining town of Kirwin in the mountains southwest of Meeteetse. Four-wheel drive recommended. Cody’s Old Trail Town—One-of-a-kind buildings from the past, including the famous hideout used by Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. Colorful characters are rumored to haunt the town’s nearby gravesites. Mule Days—Don’t be stubborn! Check out Jake Clark’s Mule Days in Ralston, near Cody, June 10-16, 2019. The venerable saddle mule is front and center in its own parade, rodeo, and auction, all highlighting a true Western character.
GET A LIFT
Bill” Cody while highlighting historical sites, scenic vistas, geology, wildlife, and Old- and New-West attractions. Scenic Airplane Tour — For the ultimate lift, Fly Jackson Hole offers expansive views high above the valley and mountains. Soar along peaks and espy glittering alpine lakes, distant waterfalls, and wild canyons.
Bob Woodall photos (both pages)
Hop on the bus—The Jackson Hole START Bus system makes getting around easy. In Jackson ride all over town for free. Buses are on a half-hour schedule. Hourly departures to Teton Village. Three bucks for adults and half price for seniors and kids age 5 to 12. Four-year olds and younger ride free, as do all students of Teton County, Wyoming, schools. Buses also run south to Star Valley and west to Teton Valley. Visit startbus.com for a complete fee/time schedule and maps. Cody Trolley Tours—A 60-minute, 22-mile tour in a comfortable red and green trolley. Narrators recount the story of William F. “Buffalo
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This airborne journey overflies the Snake River and the Gros Ventre Range before crossing Jackson Hole and the Tetons. A variety of tours depart from the JH Airport. See page 32. Glider rides—Mountains create updrafts, and that means good gliding. Check the Driggs, Idaho, airport for information on glider rides. Aerial Tram—Climb 4,139 feet above the valley floor aboard the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram. At the summit of Rendezvous Mountain, a lofty 10,450 feet, tram passengers step out into the Alpine zone, right at the tree-line’s edge. Take in a 360-degree panorama of the Jackson Hole valley and nearby and distant mountain features. Ride the tram, hike the trails, or “fly” back to the valley floor. Tandem paragliding—From the top of the tram, sprout wings on a 20-minute tandem flight with Jackson Hole Paragliding. Certified pilots with hundreds of hours flying in the Tetons are eager to introduce first-timers to the exhilarating experience of tandem paragliding. Chairlifts—These lifts get folks up above it all for an impressive view of the scenery and also provide quick backcountry access for hikers and mountain bikers. Both Snow King and Grand Targhee mountain resorts offer rides. Dine on a mountainside—Ride the Bridger Gondola at Teton Village up to the restaurants in the Rendezvous Lodge for a peak dining experience 2,730 feet above the valley. Piste Mountain Bistro, Off-Piste, and the Deck @ Piste boast a wide range of offerings. Head up for afternoon cocktails on The Deck and marvel at a high-altitude Jackson Hole sunset. The gondola ride is free. For tram riders, Corbet’s Cabin serves gourmet waffles from its outpost on the 10,450-foot summit of Rendezvous Mountain. Balloon rides—Greet the morning by lofting into crisp mountain air in the gondola of a colorful hot-air balloon. Bungee-trampolining—Give your youngster the thrill of a trampoline with the lift and spring of bungee cords. Alpine slide—Ride the chairlift up, then pilot a sled for a journey down a mountain slide that snakes and dips through the glade at Snow King. Mountain Coaster—Forget the aerial acrobatics! The Snow King roller coaster is all about breathtaking moves right on some of terra firma’s most spectacular landscape. Getting up couldn’t be easier! Except for getting down. Get a line on this!—Zip lines are tugging at the hearts of young and old at Snow King and Sleeping Giant. Air on the side of fun! On the ropes!—Treetop adventures lead everyone to a higher place. Both the JHMR and Snow King Mountain have extensive rope courses. Climbing Walls—Kids and parents ready to climb walls can grapple with fun at JHMR, Snow King, and Targhee. Clip in and climb on—Challenge yourself and the kids to scaling the heights in the latest climbing craze, the Via Ferrata. See page 82. Frisbee Golf & Mini-Golf —Toss one off at Frisbee golf greens! All three resorts have options. Maximize family fun with a round of mini-golf at Snow King. yellowstoneadventureguide.com
An aerial view of the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River.
Get amazed—Nothing like a maze to put the fun in being lost. Navigate Snow King’s Amaze’n Maze.
CULTURE
Music festivals—A score of music events await mountain-country travelers. The world-
class Grand Targhee Bluegrass and Targhee Fest and music camps fill the hills with tunes. Jackson’s Center for the Arts hosts summer music and dance concerts, stage presentations, and art shows. In addition to the Grand Teton Music Festival, Teton Village continues its popular free Concert on the Commons per-
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Western tanager (above). The Cowboy Coaster at Snow King Mountain Resort (right). Snow King’s Treetop Adventure (left). Pictured: Mia Rider.
Wade McKoy photos; Bob Woodall (bird).
Community Pathways (below). Pictured: Dustin Varga
formance series, and in Victor, Idaho, free highprofile concerts in the park bring weekly gatherings to its Music on Main events. And Cody, not to be outdone, carries on its long tradition of free Concerts in the Park. In Jackson, the Jackson Hole Live outdoor concerts unfold at the foot of Snow King Resort. The 2019 season opens on Father’s Day, Sunday, June 16, and includes the annual Crawfish Boil. Art fairs—There’s no better way to celebrate nature’s art-inspiring elements than at one of the many artists’ fairs. These gatherings highlight summer weekends throughout mountain country. Wander through festive outdoor galleries and watch artisans in the creative act. Muse on!—Museums offer reflection and refuge. Mountain country is home to some major collections.
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The Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum recently opened its new facility two blocks north of the Jackson Town Square. View the settlement of Jackson Hole through artifacts, documents, photos, books and the oral histories of trappers, homesteaders, dude ranchers, and adventurers. Visit its store to buy historic photos, books, music, videos, and gifts. Cody’s world-class Buffalo Bill Center of the West boasts five vibrant museums in a single structure and celebrates the rich, epochal American West. An hour from Yellowstone National Park, this museum complex is a trove of the West’s natural, cultural, and historical facets. William F. “Buffalo Bill” Cody, the town and museum’s namesake, holds a prominent place in the history of the West and this museum does justice to both. See page 90.
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Jackson’s National Museum of Wildlife Art holds more than 5,000 artworks celebrating the natural world’s inhabitants. Featuring work by Georgia O’Keeffe, Andy Warhol, Robert Kuhn, John James Audubon, and Carl Rungius, the Museum’s permanent collection chronicles much of the history of wildlife in art, from 2500 B.C. to the present. The awardwinning museum also hosts a wide range of events and programs. wildlifeart.org. Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center—In downtown Dubois, Wyoming, experience these stunning, full-size bighorns in breathtaking realism set amidst their natural flora and geology. Photos and hands-on exhibits transport visitors into the majestic range and habits of these powerful animals. bighorn.org Libraries—Books, music, movies, lectures, computers, and insight into just about
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Bob Woodall A tranquil side-channel of the Snake, Schwabacher Landing’s calm waters create something rare in Jackson Hole — a mirror to reflect the Grand Tetons. every community in mountain country. Great havens for tired travelers and curious kids, especially if the weather is a bit uncooperative. Bookstores—Some with coffee, pastries, newspapers, Wi-Fi—but all with books and settings that enrich readers young and old! Antique shows—Snap up a bargain, maybe even a piece of history, at one of the many antique road shows hosted in our mountain towns. Classic car shows—Americans love their cars, and none more so than the auto buffs
who stage the Jackson Hole Rendezvous in June on the main street lawn of the Virginian Hotel. Sponsored by the Eastern Idaho Early Iron Organization, the event dazzles young and old with restored gems from the golden age of the U.S. auto industry. Want more than just window-shopping? Then view or bid on vintage cars displayed at the Silver Collector Car Show and Auction, July 5-6 in Teton Village. Rendezvous Royale—Here’s a Western extravaganza that combines it all: Western art, Western music, Western dining, Western fash-
ion, and Western food, right in the heart of Cody, Wyoming, a town with a name as Western as they come. September 16-21, 2019. Fall Arts Festival—A major Jackson Hole shindig, the 2019 series of events take place from September 4-15. The confab is highlighted by a design conference and exhibit, gallery walks, historic ranch tours, culinary events, and endless activities. Don’t miss the QuickDraw art sale and auction that follows the exciting 90-minute spectacle as a couple dozen artists create a work from start to finish. Continued next page
THE TETON RING
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Jackson Hole Playhouse, just a block off the Jackson town square, is home to Western musical productions like last summer’s Cat Ballou (pictured). Windsurfing in Wyoming is for the hardy few. Windsurfer: Mike Maples. The American bison, commonly called buffalo, frequent the steppes around Blacktail Butte north of Jackson.
From page 15 Or eat your fill at the open-air Taste of the Tetons, where valley chefs, restaurants, and caterers put their best culinary work on display, accompanied by live music, pinky painting, and the Takin' It to the Streets art fair. Drive-in theater—Not many of these left in the world, but one of the more famous, the Spud Drive-in Theatre, just south of Driggs, Idaho, is a trip back in time. Look for the giant spud on the old red flatbed truck, just off the highway between Victor and Driggs, Idaho. Film festivals—Fall film festivals this season include the Jackson Hole Wildlife Film Festival, late September. Showcased at the Jackson Center for the Arts downtown. Local hint: Watch the local paper for Frank’s Annual Fall Film Festival. Those in the know go! Live theater—The Old West has come and gone, but more than enough of it is still showcased in the vintage Jackson Hole Playhouse.
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Bob Woodall photos (Top, bison); Wade McKoy photos ( windsurfer , SUP)
Surf the Snake River Canyon (facing page) via SUP. Pictured: Aaron Pruzan.
Just a block off the Jackson town square, this year’s musical, “Big River: The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn,” features bluegrass and country arrangements in keeping with the setting of Mark Twain's classic novel. The original 1985 Broadway production ran for more than 1,000 performances, a rare success for an American musical. The playhouse’s Saddle Rock Saloon warms up patrons with song, food, and exuberance, and enough energy to light up anyone’s day. Go out to eat—An army runs on its stomach, and an army of tourists has countless dining opportunities out West. Take advantage of mountain country’s diverse gustatory offerings. Pick up a Jackson Hole Dining Guide or go online at jhdiningguide.com for the most comprehensive listing in the region. Fire department chicken fries and barbecues—Volunteer fire departments, when
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they’re not tossing water on flames, throw fundraising chicken-fries and BBQs throughout summer. A great way to meet locals and experience a sweet slice of American pie— and to keep many of the volunteers well equipped. Dance to the music—Don’t just dance to the music, dance to live music. Many bars and taverns offer nightly live music. Get out and kick up your heels! Learn to Western Swing: free lessons at 7:30 on Thursday nights at Jackson’s Cowboy Bar. Watch for info in all our Western towns.
WE HAD SNOW AND NOW WE’VE GOT WATER!
Go fish—Mountain country holds some of the best trout streams and lakes in the lower 48 states. The area abounds with angling shops and guide services. Hire a guide or just tetonadventureguide.com
on the water. Local windsurfers show up when the waves reach whitecap status. Best dam views—Completed in 1910, the Buffalo Bill Dam near Cody is the most impressive one this side of the Hoover Dam. Stroll across the dam and peer 325 feet into the canyon bottom. In GTNP, drive over Jackson Lake Dam, gaze across the lake at the Tetons and marvel at the thundering waters churning out of the spillways. Maybe toss a dry fly or a streamer into those fat-boy holding waters. But get a license! Park rangers and Game and Fish folks take their jobs seriously. See page 89.
LOOK UP AT THE STARS
get out and explore. Whitewater rafting—The Snake, Green, Shoshone, Yellowstone, and Clark’s Fork rivers sport miles of whitewater action. Lots of commercial services are available, or rent a raft and go get wet. Scenic raft trips—Not into getting wet? Then how about a sublime sunrise voyage on the Snake River in front of the Grand Tetons? A host of wildlife in the air, on the land, and in the water. Canoeing & sea kayaking—If a little more intimacy with the water appeals, the possibilities are almost endless. Rent boats in Jackson to explore our many lakes and streams. For a visual feast and relaxing glide beneath the Tetons, launch that craft at GTNP’s Oxbow Bend channels of the Snake River, just below Jackson Lake Dam. Locals love this section’s calm beauty and window into wildlife. Bring the camera! Whitewater kayaking—To get really personal with the river, nothing beats being in a kayak, blasting through rapids or surfing a wave for as long as you can hold on. Stand Up Paddle Boards (SUP)—Feel like Hawaiian royalty standing on a long surfboard propelling yourself along the river currents. Paddling while standing yields a bird’s-eye view into the clear waters and stunning terrain. Rent one at Rendezvous River Sports and find out why SUP is the fastest-growing water sport in the world. See page 52. Water slide and pool—Rained out or just want to get some exercise? Then head to the J.H. Rec. Center, newly remodeled and complete with lap pool, kids’ pool, Jacuzzi, steam room, and three-story water slide. Take the entire family. Supervised, adult-led day-adventure programs for kids available, too (tetonparksandrec.org). Ask about public swimming pools in all mountain country towns. Swim al fresco—You’ll find a number of unique options for outdoor swimming around mountain country. In YNP, check out the Firehole River near Madison Junction or the Boiling River near Gardiner, where hot springs flow into the river (swimming in hot springs them-
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selves is prohibited and dangerous). In GTNP, String Lake is an outstanding swimming hole, safe for the whole family. If you want it hot and in a commercial swimming pool, visit Granite Hot Springs, south of Jackson. Sailing and windsurfing—Slide Lake, below the historic Gros Ventre landslide above the town of Kelly, pulls in the windsurfers as soon as the ice is off. Jackson Lake in GTNP, Yellowstone Lake, and Fremont Lake outside Pinedale all have sailboats in the docks and
Now that night has fallen, don’t just hit the sack. Head outside and cast those eyes skyward. If you’re a city dweller, you really shouldn’t miss this experience. The Milky Way sweeps across the clear western heavens in a blaze of glittering light and confirms the existence of real stars and astronomical delights. If you find yourself lost in space and need some help finding the North Star or Aldebaran, then join Wyoming Stargazers in Teton Park and get connected to the cosmos with astronomical experts. Find them at wyomingstargazine.org, 844-WYO-STAR.
SPECIAL EVENTS
Farmers Markets—No reason to strike out for the mega market’s comestibles. Locavores can get their fresh-food fix right on the beaten
Fast, Affordable and On Your Way. McDonald’s® of Jackson Hole
Open & Serving your favorites 5:00am - Midnight Daily
Free Wi-Fi 1110 W. Broadway, Jackson, WY • 1 mile west of Town Square
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Jackson Hole Live outdoor concerts (above) unfold at the foot of Snow King Mountain. Grace Potter (right), pictured here in 2016 at Targhee Music Fest, played a free concert on the Town Square last spring as part of the Jackson Hole Rendezvous Spring Festival.
SCENIC DRIVES
Teton Park Inner Loop—This idyllic roadway takes you as close to the mountains as you can get in a vehicle. For the best glimpses of wildlife, try early morning or sunset. Camera hounds will enjoy capturing the alpenglow at sunrise or the shadows lengthening at sunset. Beartooth Pass—Truly one of the most spectacular, not-to-be-missed drives in the U.S. Between Red Lodge, Montana, and the Northeast Entrance of YNP, the highway switchbacks up the slope to above timberline and a 10,940-foot summit. Along the way, cold mountain streams, crashing waterfalls, and deep-blue alpine lakes dot the landscape, while jagged granite peaks stab the sky. The excursion passes from sub-alpine to alpine
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Wade McKoy photos
path. Watch for popular farmers markets throughout the region. Fourth of July—Music, rodeos, community, parades, foot races, and of course fireworks. What more can we say! Local papers post complete lists of events. County fairs—These are true community events out here in the West. Horses, cows, pigs, sheep, and the best-grown produce of locals, as well as fiddle contests, magic shows, carnival rides, and stands complete with corn dogs and cotton candy. environments. Allow plenty of time, though; a parade of continuous vistas beckon—and a snowball fight in July is traditional! Chief Joseph Scenic Highway—Between Cody and the Northeast Entrance of YNP, another zigzagging traverse heads over Dead Indian Hill and into Sunlight Basin. Its isolation and incredible vistas make this wide but infrequently used highway a pleasure to travel along. From the summit you can look deep into both the mountains and the Clarks Fork River Canyon. Elkhart Park—From Pinedale, the Fremont Lake Road heads north out of town, crosses a glacial moraine, and then climbs past 10mile-long Fremont Lake and on to Elkhart Park. From this popular trailhead, views are
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afforded well into the Wind River Mountains and down 2,000 feet to Fremont Lake itself. Trail Lake Road—Just east of Dubois, Trail Lake Road heads south into the Wind River Mountains and past three jewel-like lakes. Look for petroglyphs on the boulders along the way. At the end of the road, hike 3 miles to stunning Lake Louise. Wapiti Valley—Between the East Entrance of YNP and Cody, this spectacular valley is a treat for the eyes. The many strange, eroded rock formations look like, well, whatever your imagination can come up with. Kids excel at this kind of travel creativity. Keep an eye out for the Cookie Monster somewhere up there. —Adventure Guide
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ZIPLINE AT THE SLEEPING GIANT Experience Wyoming’s rare air
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ust three miles from the East Gate of Yellowstone National Park at the head of spectacular Wapiti Valley and 50 miles west of Cody, Wyoming, lies Sleeping Giant Ski Area. Rest assured, though, it’s wide-awake in summer, and providing an exciting new twist for park visitors: a zipline over some of the West’s most spectacular landscape. There may be debate about the zip line’s origins, but there’s no denying its rapidly growing appeal. Some attribute the zipline’s arrival on the recreational vista to a biologist studying the canopy of Costa Rican rainforests. From there it Flying high above the Shoshone River, dual ziplines introduce a competitive flair to recreation.
Photos courtesy Sleeping Giant
(12 & under) with a multiple-ride discount of $37.50 available. A full tour family rate is $250 (4-member minimum). A single ride on Zip #1 across the Shoshone River costs only $20 and
is upgradeable. Reservations are not required but are highly recommended. More info at www.zipsg.com. — Adventure Guide
evolved into eco-friendly tourism in that lush landscape. But ziplining is now right at home thanks to Wyoming’s Sleeping Giant ski resort. Sleeping Giant Zipline’s promise of adventure is realized with a series of five “zips.” Covering more than 3,520 feet, the dual lines allow side-by-side whisking above breathtaking terrain at speeds that can reach up to 45 mph. The resort’s aerial course was built to blend in with the scenery and afford riders the opportunity to view the topography from a totally new perspective—from the mountains and the Shoshone National Forest. Following an orientation, enthusiasts clip onto Zip #1 for a 360-foot test zip over the North Fork of the Shoshone River. “Zippers” then ride the Big Horn Double chairlift to the top of the main zip-line course. The longest of the four lines is 930 feet, the final line ending atop a 45-foot tower near the main lodge. Adrenaline junkies can take the 35-foot free fall “Quick Drop” to the ground or descend the stairs to complete the adventure. The zipline is open daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., June 15 to September 15. The tour is led by well-trained guides who work to ensure that the two-hour adventure is safe and exciting. The full tour runs $85 per person (13+), $65 yellowstoneadventureguide.com
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Teton Gravity Research
Wade McKoy
Renowned movie company opens town shop
Todd Jones and Corey Gavitt film Jason Tattersall in the company’s early days.
It began with a dream.
Adventure Guide: What is the concept for your Jackson TGR store? Steve Jones: This is the flagship brand store that we refer to as the “TGR Experience.” Our goal has been to create something unique here on the town square. More than just a tchotchke shop, it’s a place where people can come in and touch and feel and interact with the TGR brand. There’s all kinds of things here that are historical elements representing the TGR brand heritage. The full history and timeline story of TGR is displayed here. From the inception of TGR a store was inevitable, so finally opening a custom experience shop was a big deal. We’re stoked. What’s new this summer? We have a newly renovated space that utilizes beetle-kill pine décor and displays and features a line of products made from recycled materials, recycled plastic bottles, organic fabric – environmentally friendly merchandise. Environmental responsibility
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Bob Woodall
In 1995 brothers Steve and Todd Jones and Dirk Collins scraped together money they had earned as heli-ski guides and commercial fishermen in Alaska and purchased some camera equipment. Joined by longtime friend Corey Gavitt, they founded Teton Gravity Research (TGR) and began to make ski movies. By showcasing some of the world’s top athletes, TGR fueled the progression taking place in action sports. From its headquarters in Jackson Hole, TGR started producing premier ski, snowboard, and surf films. But TGR has moved beyond just filmmaking; it has emerged as a media force in action-sports culture. TGR’s Tangerine Dream. From right: Todd Jones, Corey Gavitt, Steve Jone, Dirk Collins. and consciousness have been a large part of our brand ethos since the beginning so we’re excited to translate that into our products. We’ve been working with the Grateful Dead and Warner Music Group on a collaboration that is close to our hearts. We’ve created a collection of official Grateful Dead x TGR collaborative products that feature original Dead artwork, along with our own interpretations through our own network of artists. In addition to other TGR-branded items, we launched TGR Optics last winter. Working with the Zeiss Lens company we have highend polarized sunglasses and goggles that have been developed with the help of athletes and tested in the real world through years of filming in adverse environments. TGR is about movies. What does the shop offer in that realm? It wouldn’t be a true TGR experience without a theater. We’ve got a world class, 22-seat theater that we show our films in daily. We
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also have a Virtual Reality station with immersive surf and snow experiences. What can we see through VR? The cool thing about VR is that it literally puts you right there. The VR stuff is really cool and really unique, it is amazing. You can ride a wave with Kelly Slater, you can swim with seals and dolphins, you're underwater in the Marshall Islands with sharks. You can literally be inside the helicopter with the TGR athletes, watching them pick out lines and looking at terrain—it is pretty amazing. Typically, most people, when they put the glasses on, go to grab something to hold on. What do you show in the theater? The vision on this is that people can come in here and watch trailers from over 24 years of making movies. Then, every hour on the hour from noon to 6 p.m., we have a free screening of Wild Jackson Hole, an 18-minute 4K film. It's a four-season film that’s got everything from powder skiing to mountain biking tetonadventureguide.com
Photo courtesy of Todd Glaser, TGR film Proximity in Marshall Islands. TGR made the transition from ski flicks to surf flicks early in its evolution as a sports action film company. to surfing the wave on the Snake River. It has wildlife and aerials of Grand Teton and Yellowstone parks. It’s an epic take-home gift too, all TGR footage of ski, bike, snowboard, and river surf. Just boom! Here’s Jackson Hole. Is the theater available for private parties? If you call in advance and pre-book, you can request a screening of any of our shows. It’s great for private parties and things like that or a birthday party for the kids. Book the whole theater for the evening, even get it catered and bring in whatever beverages you want—we just can’t sell those things.
What is “movie night” about? Yeah, another cool thing we started is movie nights at 7 p.m. Lots of the guys living out here will come with their friends. They bring beers and pizza in from Pinky G's and sit down and they watch a flick. Anything for families? Bring their kids in and while they watch a 70-to 90-minute movie, the parents can go shopping, have a bite to eat or grab a cocktail. The kids just have to be independent enough that they can handle themselves on their own. We’re not a babysitting service.
Any special events happening? There will be a monthly featured artist displaying custom work by a TGR athlete. There’s a pretty constant flow of athletes coming through, so we'll do stuff in the shop where we have poster signings and serve drinks and appetizers where you can meet some of the TGR movie stars and interact with them. Typically we have some type of a promotion going; folks can sign up to win something pretty cool. Last winter people won skis, snowboards, and TGR Gear. This summer we will be giving away a mountain bike. — Adventure Guide
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Falls Arts Festival
Wade McKoy photos
Jackson Hole, the place to be September 4-15
QuickDraw Art Sale and Auction showcases nationally recognized artists who gather on the Jackson Town Square to paint and sculpt as spectators observe. Immediately afterwards, the artworks are sold at auction (facing page). Pictured: John Potter.
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ow in its 35th year, the annual Jackson Hole Fall Arts Festival fills 12 days of September with art, design, music, food, and wine and spirits. Widely recognized as one of the premier cultural events in the Rocky Mountain West, the Festival runs September 4-15 for 2019.
Western Design Exhibit and Sale, Opening Preview Party and Fashion Show–Early entry into the exhibit and sale allows a first glance at one-of-a-kind creations in furniture, fashion, jewelry, and home and lifestyle accessories. Guests can meet the artisans, walk through the Designer Show House, experience a Runway Fashion Show, and get in on the live auction. Culinary creations by Genevieve Catering and signature cocktails are served during the festive night of shopping and entertainment. Tickets in advance online or at the door are $125 for VIP seats or $50 general, 6-10 p.m. at the Snow King Center admission. WesternDesignConference.com
Bob Woodall
Thousands of art enthusiasts are drawn each year from around the world to experience the diverse media and breathtaking natural surroundings that make Jackson Hole a leading cultural center. Visitors get to appreciate the works of nationally and internationally acclaimed artists along with an exceptional array of events (50 or more). Thursday, September 5
Western Design Conference Exhibit and Sale–The 26th Annual Exhibit and Sale is the preeminent exhibition of the finest Western design in the world, but with a twist. Attendees can meet the designers and shop direct at every price point. Creations range from cowboy to contemporary during this colorful event. Over 100 national artists present contemporary and traditional handcrafted furniture, fashion, jewelry,
Friday-Sunday, September 6, 7 & 8
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Jackson Hole High School culinary students at the 2009 Taste of the Tetons. and accessories for the home. Not to be missed is the Designer Show House, spotlighting a custom interior design in a home environment. Design conference-goers can also sip libations at Artitude Adjustment, the gathering’s happy hour, and enjoy food catered by Jackson restaurant E. Leaven. Tickets at the door are $15; 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. at the Snow King Center. Friday, Benefit Night, runs 4-7 p.m., with 10% of the sales donated to the Art Association. WesternDesignConference.com Palates & Palettes Gallery Walk–The Chamber of Commerce’s signature event showcases the art of over 30 galleries. Food, wine, and music round out this experience. Participants can stroll along the boardwalks to visit the various locations, take in the art and sample locally sourced culinary treats. The journey kicks off at the National Museum of Wildlife Art, runs 3-5 p.m., and then shifts to various locations in downtown Jackson before concluding at 8 p.m.
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Friday, September 6
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Historic Ranch Tours–Visit two historic valley ranches where Jackson Hole’s cowboy heritage still thrives. The tour of the Lockhart Ranch and the Snake River Ranch is complete with cowboys, Western entertainment, and a good ol’ fashion barbecue from Moe's Original BBQ. The tour is hosted by Mountain Living magazine. Buses leave Jackson’s Home Ranch parking lot at 2 p.m. The ticketed event costs $60. To register for the ranch tour, e-mail caitlin@jacksonholechamber.com.
Saturday, September 7
20th Annual Takin’ It to the Streets–This juried open-air art fair on the Jackson Town Square is presented by the Jackson Hole Art Association and presents 40 local artists, some of Jackson’s finest among them, selling an array of fine artwork. 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. artistinfo@jhartfair.org. A lively art auction follows the Jackson Hole QuickDraw on the Town Square. Taste of the Tetons–Valley chefs, restaurants, tion has been recognized as one of the premier art sales events in the and caterers offer up their best culinary gems at this open-air tasting country. The auction, prized for the high standard of works offered in a fair. Live music, pinky painting, and the "Takin' It To the Streets" art fair variety of genres, including wildlife, sporting, figurative, landscape and round out this event. From 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. on the Jackson Town Western art, boasts both renowned past masters and contemporary Square. artists. The auction takes place over the course of two days. Session I Rotary Supper Club's Sips on the Square–The Jackson Rotary is set fort Friday, September 13. A shorter sale, its offerings are priced Club links up with Taste of the Tetons and Takin' It to the Streets to promore accessibly for the emerging collector. Session II runs on Saturday, duce its Wine Tasting and Silent Auction. All proceeds benefit Central September 14, and will highlight a wide range of artwork, from conserWyoming College's nursing program. From 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. on the vatively priced small works to museum-quality masterpieces. Jackson Town Square. The auction gets underway at noon at the Jackson Center for the Friday, September 13 Arts. Register to attend at jacksonholeartauction.com. The Jackson Hole Showcase of Homes–The Jackson Hole Show-
Sunday, September 8
case of Homes is a one-day, self-guided fundraising tour revealing the craftsmanship of some of Jackson’s most spectacular homes. More than the ordinary walk-through, the Jackson Hole Showcase of Homes boasts a unique benefit: face-to-face conversations with the finest professionals in architecture, construction, interior design, and landscaping. They share the art—and perhaps the magic—behind their achievements in some of the West’s most exciting living spaces. Hosted by Homestead magazine. Limited tickets available. Western Visions 31st Show & Sale–Notable for its works by the country’s leading wildlife artists, this show provides the final opportunity to place bids before a drawing that determines who will go home with an original new work of art. Tickets include admission to the National Museum of Wildlife Art for the exhibit’s duration, and to the show and sales event. A bidding number is assigned with the ticket purchase. Cost is $150 ($125 for Members). From 5-8 p.m. at the NMWA, www.westernvisions.org. Jackson Hole Art Auction–Since 2007, the Jackson Hole Art Auc-
24th Annual Jackson Hole QuickDraw Art Sale and Auction–Nationally, regionally, and locally recognized artists gather on the Jackson Town Square to paint and sculpt as spectators look on and observe a creative process limited to just 90 minutes. Immediately afterwards, the one-of a-kind artworks will be auctioned off along with the sale of this year's featured Fall Artist poster design. This popular unique event starts at 9 a.m. on the Jackson Town Square and is open to the public.
Saturday, September 14
Sunday Art Brunch Gallery Walk–Everyone is welcome to join this closing-day celebration, held throughout Jackson’s art galleries for brunch and festive beverages at the festival’s grand finale. At various locations and open to the public, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Schedule is Subject to Change. Contact the participating organizations or call the Chamber at 307.733.3316 for the latest information.
Sunday, September 15
— Adventure Guide
35TH ANNUAL
FALL ARTS FESTIVAL SEPTEMBER 4 – 15, 2019 EXPERIENCE ONE OF THE PREMIER CULTURAL EVENTS IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN WEST. Widely recognized by artists and enthusiasts, the Jackson Hole Fall Arts Festival brings together nationally and internationally acclaimed artists along with an exceptional array of events featuring music, cuisine and wine.
John Simms, Sculptor 3 07. 7 3 3 . 3 3 1 6 + jacksonholechamber.com
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The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem E ncompassing nearly 35,000
square miles, the magnificent
Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem
(GYE) is one of the largest nearly
intact temperate-zone ecosystems on earth. Yellowstone and Grand
Teton national parks are at the core of this vast and diverse landscape.
Punctuated by the Grand Teton, which soars 7,000 feet above the Jackson Hole valley floor, the GYE harbors the largest collection of hydrothermal features on earth, including about half the world’s active geysers. It sprawls across three states and is home to two national parks, portions of five national forests, three national wildlife refuges, and other public, tribal, and private lands. This habitat is a vital sanctuary for the greatest concentration of wildlife in the lower 48 states, among them the largest free-roaming bison herd in the United States, one of the largest elk herds in North America, and one of the few grizzly bear populations in the contiguous United States. That’s a lot to take in. It can be a little overwhelming for visitors with a limited amount of time. One way to maximize that
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Photography by Taylor Phillips & Josh Metten, EcoTour Adventures time and enhance the experience is to hook up with a professional naturalist for a tour of the parks. “People are looking for knowledge,” said Taylor Phillips, owner of Eco Tour Adventures. “With such a rich amount of cultural and natural history, there is much to know of and share about this area.” The GYE’s natural history now includes growing political controversy as well. Because of issues surrounding wolf and grizzly bear management, forest-fire management, and political decision-making, “it is important that we provide both sides of the story and let people decide for themselves,” said Phillips. Taylor’s enthusiasm for knowledge is just one reason that wildlife/eco-tours have be-
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come a popular activity for folks looking to explore their national parks. “I want them to understand the uniqueness of this area,” he said.
Above: In Yellowstone’s Lower Geyser Basin, along Firehole Lake Drive, travertine pools of Great Fountain Geyser mirror a golden sunset. Left: Where the buffalo roam. Grand Teton and Yellowstone National parks are home to over 4,000 bison, some of the largest remaining wild heards left on earth. Below: Just hours after birth, moose calves learn to walk and follow mothers closely. Rather than hiding from predators, they rely on mom to protect them from danger. Be sure to give moose plenty of space, they can be dangerous.
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“Our main focus is to maximize our guests’ time in the parks,” he noted. “Grand Teton National Park is known for wildlife and stunning scenery, but it is so much more. We enjoy educating our guests on the region’s wildlife, history, and geology as we take them to the great wildlife hotspots. “In Yellowstone we go to favorite thermal spots and do our best to keep away from the crush of crowds. We keep track of eruption schedules, so no waiting around,” Phillips
pointed out. “We want to connect our guests to these incredible national parks, the larger ecosystem, and the natural world in general. Our programs can be life changing. We love to serve up the best spots for viewing wildlife and the stunning landscape that our guides know and cherish.” Half- and full-day tours include transportation from the guest’s lodging. Half-day trips include snacks and beverages. Full-day trips
include lunches, served either in the field or an indoor lodge. If a guest wants to set up a tripod and wait for the perfect picture, Phillips suggests booking a private photo tour with his company. — Adventure Guide
Above: The eagle is an opportunist carnivore and consumes a wide variety of prey, although fish comprise the bulk of its diet. Top Left: Pine martin are elusive, agile, cat-size predators. They climb trees easily and can jump from treetop to treetop without breaking a limb or falling to the ground. Generally nocturnal, pine marten normally hunt through the night. Center left: Look carefuly in the sagebrush flats of Grand Teton and Yellowstone National parks and you may spot a badger. These muscle-bound weasels use large, strong digging claws to hunt and dig up small rodents that live in underground burrows. Below: Highly social animals, river otters work together to find food and protect themselves from potential predators. They reinforce bonds with social grooming and frequent vocal communications.
GUIDED WILDLIFE TOURS
JHEcoTourAdventures.com 307•690•9533 yellowstoneadventureguide.com
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Capturing the Wild Splendor Photography by Isaac Spotts Story by Bob Woodall
Photographer Isaac Spotts was on the hunt in Yellowstone last summer. He’d parked at a place that looked promising and headed off into the woods. He ended up finding a family of great grey owls. “I’ll photograph anything, but great greys are my favorite. They are so hard to find, their camouflage is amazing,” he said. “I’ve spent hundreds of hours looking for them. They are such amazing birds, so when I find them, I get such a rush.” The rush that day was about to get better. “I was in this open meadow surrounded by pine trees, photographing this owl perched in a tree, when all of a sudden he looked right at me,” Spotts recalled. “He then dove down right at me—he came so close to my head that he nearly tipped my hat off and I could feel the wind from the wings. He dove down right behind me and pounced on a vole and flew off. It was super cool.” In Orlando, Florida, where Spotts grew up, there was little wildlife, mostly lizards and squirrels. “My family would rescue injured squirrels and turtles,” he said. “That started my passion for wildlife.” When Spotts was 10 his grandparents gave him a point-and-shoot camera and he began taking pictures of the animals. “I realized I could capture these really cool moments in the wildlife’s lives, and to me that was really super cool and extremely special,” he said. “Ever since then, I’ve been hooked— it has been my passion and obsession.” In an ironic twist, at age 13, Spotts landed an acting role in the play The Voyages of Dr. Doolittle. “I was paid to ‘talk to the animals.’ I then used the money to purchase my first DSLR and I started taking photography a little more seriously,” he said. Mostly self-taught, Spotts’s biggest chal-
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The leucistic great grey owl is a rare sight in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. lenge as a wildlife photographer is in just finding it. “I spend hundreds of hours out there in the field, week after week. People see my website and think this kid is seeing this stuff every day,” he said. “That is just not the case at all. Ninety percent of the time I don’t come away with any pictures. But on the days I do, something crazy could happen and it makes all the searching worth it.” Spotts insisted that, “You have to go out early. The fact of the matter is, wildlife are out in the morning. Most of time I have a rough draft of a plan for the day. If things are not going well, I’ll just wing it and play it by ear.” As for shooting locations, “A lot of people
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are afraid to photograph the hot spots, just because they are over-photographed,” he said. “But don’t be afraid to photograph them. Then you have your own photos of the iconic places, like Schwabacher’s Landing, the Snake River Overlook, and the Moulton Barns. Then you can venture out and do your own thing.” His favorite lens is a 500mm f/4. “I am a sucker for ‘bokeh,’ the separation of the subject from the background that you get at f/4,” said Spotts. “It renders a blurred-out background with no detail. I always keep my camera at f/4 just to get that.” Spotts cautions photographers to keep their distance from wildlife. “If you just have a tetonadventureguide.com
Top: A summer thunderstorm rolls over the Tetons and across the Jackson Hole valley. Above: The moutain bluebird is one of many songbirds that summer in the GYE. Right: A mother red fox carries a meal back to the den for her hungry kits. shorter lens, don’t let the temptation drive you to get closer and closer to the subject,” he emphasized. “A lot of people feel that just because they don’t have a telephoto lens, it shouldn’t stop them from getting closeups. Walking up to bison and elk can end up in disaster.” Official park rules require a minimum disyellowstoneadventureguide.com
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The bull moose, one of the GYE’s most majestic animals, frequents meadows and willow bottom lands.
When not out in the woods, Isaac can often be tracked down at Wyoming Camera Outfitters or on instagram @isaacspicz.
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Isaac Spotts – Instagram:@isaacspicz
tance of 100 yards from bears and wolves and 25 yards from all other wildlife. “Even 25 yards is pretty close,” he warned. “If I am out in an open field, I always have to picture an escape route—just in case. If a bison is in the flats with nothing around and it decides to turn on you, all of a sudden it is catching up to you in a heartbeat.” “You can tell a lot about an animal by their body language,” said Spotts. “With moose, their hair will stand up, their ears will pin back—things like this indicate that you should step back a little bit, even further than 25 yards at times.” Spotts’s dedication to wildlife photography has been rewarding. The prestigious Smithsonian Magazine named him Natures’s Best Youth Photographer of the Year for 2018. His photo, “Battle of the Bulls,” captured three bull moose sparring in the Kelly Warm Springs. Spotts acknowledges that even that shot was the luck of the draw. “That situation was definitely luck,” he admitted. “And most of wildlife photography is that.”
A yearling black bear gorges on hawthorn berries to fatten up for the coming winter.
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Wild America Nature thrives in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem By Bert Raynes
In all too many places on earth, man has altered his preexisting habitat so drastically that many animal and plant species have vanished. Extirpated, gone forever. Overall, worldwide, the scene and scenario for wildlife verges on the tragic—innumerable species disappearing each year, each day, far above previous rates of extinction in prehistoric times. Deforestation, desertization, single-crop farming practices, overfishing, human overpopulation, and pollution are responsible. Some surviving species were forced to move elsewhere, if they could, or to modify their behavior to exist—or coexist—within the confines or interstices of their new situation. Come to that, man increasingly is forced to do the same. Yet our understanding of and compassion for wildlife’s welfare appear to be declining at an accelerating rate. Thankfully, in a few places on the planet, for reasons of enlightened thought and concern, or more likely, a disinterest in them or their habitat, wildlife yet flourish in a relatively natural state. A few places only, despite an increasing body of knowledge which points to the need for there to be very large areas set aside for many animals even to have a chance to exist in something like their pre-homoerectus situations. This is one of those places. When you visit large parks like Yellowstone and Grand Teton National parks, yet buffered from urbanization by surrounding national forests and all together making up the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, take every opportunity to absorb all the scenery you can lay your eyes on: endless
vistas and small scenes, bear and vole and squirrel and bison; vast expanses not altered by man; wild animals going about their lives largely as they have been doing for thousands of years, behaving in response to instincts which evolved over millions of years (modified to various extents by the presence of post-industrial man during the last two centuries). Preserving what you see hasn’t been easy. By 1872, when America created Yellowstone as the world’s first national park, much of the continental eastern United States had been altered, or defiled. Forests had been denuded, soil erosion in the plains was deliberate and would become deadly, animal and fish species were or would shortly be decimated. A sorry record, which extends into today, and not compensated for by a slow-growing awareness of the absolute need for conservation and protection. Look ye while ye may at the wonders of Greater Yellowstone and reflect that it could be lost, as it is always under attack, always coveted for other uses. You might want to ally yourself with some of the organizations that devote their energies to retaining or reclaiming some of the continent’s natural resources and treasures. While it’s not possible to return even the Yellowstone region to prehistoric splendor, there have been steps taken in that direction. The wolf was absent for most of the 20th century, man having eliminated and subsequently reintroduced the region’s top predator. Its return is to be celebrated. The wolf belongs in Yellowstone, along with grizzly and black bears, the largest herds of elk in North America, bighorn sheep, and over 60 other mammal species. It’s now recognized that biodiversity requires large areas in which to behave normally: even large parks like Yellowstone aren’t guarantees for wildlife, or for those who wish to observe wildlife literally wild...especially when these parks are crocheted with roadways and trails. The effects of a road, a visitors’ center, or campgrounds are manifold. Foot or horse trails are major dislocations. Isolation is, except for the exceptionally hardy, lost. Ah, but what is left is splendid; you can wait until you get home to join the conservation movement. Right now, fill your eyes and mind with the shining mountains, the snow-capped peaks, the blue skies, the play of light and distance in the forests, the animals braving the season. Wild animals in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem require luck, skill, and good instincts and genes. So, look ye while ye may. And you still can, in the GYE, see various animals responding primarily to long-held instinctual behavior and relatively little to modern man and his many implements. It’s important and rewarding to observe them. Bert Raynes writes a weekly column in the Jackson Hole News & Guide. He has penned five publications covering the birds and animals of Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks. His latest book, Winter Wings, joins Valley So Sweet and Curmudgeon Chronicles in receiving well-deserved, wide acclaim.
The park bear tops many a Yellowstone visitor’s must-see list. Lovable cartoon characters Yogi and Boo Boo got into trouble lifting “pick-anick baskets” from tourists, but things are quite different when bears and humans mix for real. In Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks, bears can show up most anywhere, but it’s crucial to view them from a distance. The parks enforce strict guidelines and rules for viewing wildlife, especially grizzlies. When it comes to bear safety, park rangers don’t cut violators much slack. Read the information in the parks’ newspaper that is given out at all entrance stations and visitor centers. “Bear jams” along the highway can be spectacles in themselves, and viewing from a vehicle can ensure a safe encounter—for bears and for park visitors. When heading out for a hike in bear country, things are not so easily controlled. Safe travel begins before visitors hit the trail. Bear attacks are
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rare, and visitors’ safety cannot be guaranteed. There are a number of things that help reduce the risks. First, check with the nearest backcountry office or visitor center for current bear activity or incidents. Second, always carry bear spray on the trail. Bear spray canisters run $30 to $55 and are available at many retail outlets in the greater Yellowstone region. Make sure to familiarize yourself with their proper usage before hitting the trail. Canisters are also now available for rental and return on a daily or longer basis at the Jackson Hole Airport and the Bear Aware kiosk at Canyon Village in Yellowstone. Bears are one of Yellowstone and Teton parks’ great treasures; their survival, though, requires that humans act responsibly. After all, it is their home we’re visiting. To get more vital and detailed information visit www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/bearsafety.
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— Bob Woodall
Isaac Spotts – Instagram: @ isaacspicz
Safety in Bear Country
Grizzly bears should always be viewed from a distance.
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Give Wildlife Space
rocco a number of years ago, I inquired of our guide about its wildlife. “Oh, we don’t really have any,” he said. As beautiful and romantic as it was there, the scenery offered scant evidence of wild fauna. Not so in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. The abundant wildlife and stunning scenery of the GYE are magnets for people from around the world, drawing visitors to select places, at times overcrowding the iconic spots and posing challenges for the region’s animal population. Many of the GYE’s visitors, beguiled by the scenery and its inhabitants, are looking for great photos to hang on their walls or post to their social media pages. Today’s camera technology and gear can put stunning photographs easily within reach of both amateurs and professionals. Even smartphones are now capable of taking memorable photos. But it’s not a free-for-all out here in the wilds. Most professional photographers have guidelines about how to conduct themselves in crowded locations; many visitors, however, don’t understand how to share the space. Here are a few points to consider while out in the field. When it comes to wildlife, remember: You are a spectator—not a participant, so be comfortable as a witness of animals. Jumping out of a vehicle and acting like a paparazzi is not appreciated by anyone—or the wildlife. Careless actions by a few can cut off opportunities for all, especially in our national parks. You should be trying to document wildlife behavior, not creating a situation. Strive to be that fly on the wall. Use the appropriate lenses to photograph wild animals. If an animal appears stressed, move back
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Bob Woodall
While traveling across the Atlas Mountains of Mo-
These people could be in serious danger. and use a longer lens. NEVER approach wildlife to get a closer shot. It is dangerous and, quite often, illegal as well. Park rangers will cite violators. Acquaint yourself with the fragility of this ecosystem. You are in a natural place, so treat it with respect. Stay on trails that are intended to lessen visitor impact. Be courteous to other photographers and non-photographers. They have as much right to be there as you do. Give them some space. Respect photographers who have arrived before you; stay out of their way and don’t walk into their composition. Very often photographers are using wide-angle lenses. Don’t assume that you will not be in someone’s frame. Ask, and if you are, move a little bit and don’t shadow or horn in on their photo. Many photographers are motivated to photograph in part to experience peace and solitude. Talking to them or disrupting their efforts could be affecting their creative process and diminishing their outdoor experience. To help maintain solitude in both wild and not-so wild natural places, avoid yelling or loud conversation. Finally, remember that you are probably on public land. It’s likely to be shared by others. Be aware of other photographers and other people and what they are doing—don’t intrude on their scene. Your photo is no more important than the other person’s. — Bob Woodall
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The Grand Teton, 7,000 feet above the valley floor, dominates the Jackson Hole landscape. For travelers arriving by plane, a window seat may provide a short, tantalizing birds-eye view of the towering peak—if they’re on the mountain side of the aircraft. For most other visitors, that first glimpse of the Teton is from a roadside overlook. But at that low terrestrial level, it’s difficult to truly appreciate the lay of the land. However, there is a way to rise above the crowded roadways and enjoy the ultimate window seat while soaring over the stunning mountains and valley. Enter Fly Jackson Hole. “We give people an amazing experience that you can’t really have anywhere else in the lower 48,” said Pete Lindell, Fly Jackson Hole owner. “This gets you up into the big mountains to experience these dramatic landscapes.” A variety of scenic tours, all originating at the Jackson Hole Airport, offer passengers sweeping vistas of the mountains, lakes, canyons, and valleys. “We cover a
lot of country in a short period of time,” Lindell pointed out. Carefully avoiding the noise-sensitive environs of Grand Teton National Park, the revealing flights head north along the east boundary of the park before circling over the Gros Ventre Mountains. “They are a beautiful mountain range in and of themselves,” said Lindell, “and if they weren’t in the shadow of the Tetons, they would be a tourist destination.” The tour down the Gros Ventre River, and over the Gros Ventre Slide and the Sleeping Indian, yields endless panoramic views of landscape and photo opportunities of the Tetons. Making its way back over the town of Jackson, the scenic flight then heads west over Teton Pass before turning north along the west side of the range and GTNP’s west boundary. “We go north past the Cathedral Group and do a 180-degree turn and make another pass along the mountains,” said Lindell. “That way the people on the left side of the airplane get the view.” Then it’s back over Teton Pass and a gradual descent to the airport. Longer excursions head farther north and turn just south of Yellowstone. “I try to emphasize the shared experience aspect of it.” Lindell said. “Where so many things around here are so individualistic, this is something that the whole family can relish together. It is a family-friendly, fun, safe, and comfortable activity—and a way to get up and experience the big mountains without having to be a world-class athlete or mountaineer.” Pilots are long-time local residents who share their knowledge of the natural and cultural history of the area, along with colorful facts about the valley. “Most people come back and say ‘That was the coolest thing we have done here in Jackson Hole,’” Lindell noted. Fly Jackson Hole has 60-minute, 75-minute, and 90-minute tours in either a 4-seat Cessna Hawk XP II, or an 8-seat Cessna Turbo Station Air 8. The windows on both planes swing open for clear views and photography. Rates start at $295 per adult, but children under 12 fly for $195. Custom photo trips are available for photographers looking to capture more selective images. Because of noise restrictions, tours directly over Grand Teton and Yellowstone parks themselves are not offered. — Adventure Guide
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Bob Woodall photos
Flying High with the ultimate window seat
Top: This sweeping aerial panoramic view of Jackson Hole covers over 60 miles from north (right) to south (left). The town of Jackson, Snow King Mountain, and the National Elk Refuge are to the far left. The Snake River Range and Teton Pass are to the center left, the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort to their right. At the center of it all, the Teton Range, dominated by the 13,770-foot Grand Teton. Jackson Hole Airport lies in front of the spectacular range. Jackson Lake and Yellowstone National Park are on the far right horizon. The Snake River and the Gros Ventre River flow south from right to the left. Left Center: Summer’s greenery in the high mountains of the Snake River Range is accented by dwindling snowfields. The Tetons rise far to the north. Left bottom: At the north end of Jackson Hole, jewels of the front range—Two Ocean Lake and Jackson Lake. Right: Graphic patterns emerge when landscape is viewed from above. Flat Creek on the National Elk Refuge, beguiling at ground level, becomes a dramatic subject for aerial photography.
EXPERIENCE THE TETONS LIKE NEVER BEFORE
flyjacksonhole.com | 844.359.5499 1250 E Jackson Hole Airport Road | Jackson Hole, WY 83001 yellowstoneadventureguide.com
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Jackson Hole Mountain Resort
All photos courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort
INSPIRING SUMMER TRAVELERS
The Cirque Trail winds down through spectacular Tensleep Bowl, traverses The Cirque, descends the Headwall, and arrives at the Bridger Gondola top-station.
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The winter resort gushed over by
skiers and snowboarders for epic slope-side features like Corbet’s Couloir and the Hobacks inspires equal enthusiasm among summer visitors. And right below its worldclass topography lies Teton Village.
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Bustling with year-round activities, restaurants, and hotels—all right at a doorway to Grand Teton National Park—it’s a well-provisioned base camp during a summer sojourn to Jackson Hole.
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Pathways offer a pleasant route to ride a bike from Teton Village to as far as you want to go. Go one-way to town and ride START back to where you started. The Jackson Hole Aerial Tram takes its passengers to 10,139 feet and docks at the top station on Rendezvous Mountain’s summit. All photos courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort
renowned artists every Sunday at 5 p.m. during July and August. Bring a blanket, grab a seat in the natural amphitheater, or dance on with family and friends.
Aerial Tram The ticket to the top of the Tetons, the dazzling 100-passenger Jackson Hole Aerial Tram links Teton Village to Rendezvous Mountain’s 10,450-foot summit and operates daily, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. The big red car whisks passengers up a breathtaking 4,139 vertical feet to a summit opening onto unbeatable 360-degree views of the Tetons, Snake River, and Grand Teton National Park. Tram riders glide over diverse alpine terrain and at times can glimpse bears, moose, eagles, mule deer. The topography might also quicken the pulse of those thinking of next winter’s vacation. Debuting this summer is the Family Grand Adventure Pass, a combination special pricing for the aerial tram and the resort’s Grand Adventure Park. Up to 6 individuals (2 adults, 4 children) can score this package for one set price. Recreationists can traverse the downhill mountain biking park, pad trails of alpine splendor, or step it up a notch on the resort’s new Via Ferrata. The adventurous or curious can also soar with a tandem paragliding pilot, saddle up on a horse, take in outdoor concerts, even enroll the kids in an array of programs.
Teton Village The Village Commons, a stone amphitheater in the heart of Teton Village, offers shade and seating for those hot summer days, a kids’ playground, and a pop-jet fountain. This gathering spot is also home to Concerts on the Commons, a live-music series showcasing nationally
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Bridger Gondola & Teewinot Chairlift In addition to the aerial tram, Teewinot chairlift and the Bridger gondola are open for daytime and evening lift service. Bridger gondola operates daily, June 9 through September 9, with free evening service nightly from June 15 through September 9. These three lifts access a full range of hiking options and link dining stops at Corbet’s Cabin, OffPiste, and Piste restaurants.
Mountain Sports School A variety of programs created by the Mountain Sports School provide lots of options for families with kids. The Kids’ Ranch Day Camp, the 2 0 1 9 G R A N D T E TO N & YE L LOWS TO N E A DV E N T U R E G U I D E
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Kids’ Adventure Guides, and the Mountain Bike Camp highlight summer’s lineup.
Grand Adventure Pass The Grand Adventure Pass is an economical way for visitors to explore the passel of activities and dining options in Teton Village. It affords visitors and families all-day unlimited access to the resort’s aerial tram ride, its aerial ropes course, and its bike park. Best of all, kids also receive unlimited activity tickets good for the bungee trampoline and the climbing wall.
The Lookout Tower Visitors craving a greater view of the scenery can gain an elevated perspective of the Jackson Hole valley in just minutes by climbing the stairs to the top of the Lookout Tower! The perch offers a birds-eye view of Teton Village, distant mountaintops, the Snake River and, sometimes, animals that may be roaming nearby. The Lookout Tower is free to all guests and may be the best picnic location in Teton Village.
Top: Go “on belay” with the climbing-wall attendant and scale the artificial rock positioned near the base of the Village Clock Tower. Below: Seven miles of single-track traverse the entire lower mountain, from Après Vous to the Hobacks.
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All photos courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort
Mountain Biking In its constant pursuit to expand recreational opportunities, the resort worked with Gravity Logic to build the best mountain-bike destination in the Tetons. Options abound for every skill level: from novice trails for the uninitiated to advanced trails and jump tracks for daredevils. Bikers can sail over tabletops, own the corners, and then catch the Teewinot lift for a five-minute ride back to the top. Riders can top it all off on Friday Night Bikes, from 5 to 7 p.m., June 14 to August 30, complete with discounted lift tickets, two-for-one bike rentals, and happy-hour specials at the Tin Can Cantina. For the mountain bike touring crowd, seven miles of single-track traverse the entire lower mountain, from Après Vous to the Hobacks. This route, rolling and winding along rich ski terrain, was designed and built by year-round resort workers who really know this mountain. And no need for a ticket! Ask a resort employee for a trail map. Bring your own bike or rent one from JH Sports or Teton Village Sports, where you can also purchase lift tickets or in-
quire about bike lessons and bike-specific camps for children. The Mountain Bike Camp will expand a child’s horizons with video and photography instruction and enticing activities. Pathway cruisers can take advantage of the bike rentals at TVS or Nomad Sports.
All photos courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort
Bike Rental – Teton Village/Jackson An extensive, separated pathways network connects Teton Village to Jackson 12 miles to the south and downtown Wilson, six miles southwest. Road-bike rentals in Teton Village at Teton Village Sports allow visitors to enjoy the carless/truckless/RV-less thoroughfare. If a one-way 12-mile scenic bike holds more appeal than a 24-mile round trip, rent a bike at Teton Village Sports or Hoback Sports in town, bike to the other shop, then hop aboard the START Bus at either the beginning or the end of the excursion. Rentals through these outfits include a complimentary one-way bus pass. It’s up to cyclists to shop, recreate, and dine. Details at Hoback Sports or Teton Village Sports.
Climbing Wall Go “on belay” with the climbing-wall attendant and scale the artificial rock positioned near the base of the Village Clock Tower. Activity tickets for the bungee trampoline and climbing wall are available at the Guest Service Center and JH Sports.
Aerial Ropes Course This is the opportunity to experience a thrilling elevated adventure in the forest. Great for kids and adults alike, the Aerial Ropes Course is a network of zip lines, balance beams, cargo nets, and other challenges – all suspended 25 feet above the ground. The course offers a range of features and varying levels of difficulty to allow recreationists to stretch their limits—all while harnessed safely on belay.
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Via Ferrata is Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s newest outdoor adventure. This activity leads visitors high above the valley floor, across suspended bridges, and along granite walls for a memorable adventure—all with a knowledgeable guide.
Via Ferrata Via Ferrata is Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s newest outdoor adventure. This activity leads visitors high above the valley floor, across suspended bridges, and along granite walls for a memorable adventure—all with a knowledgeable guide. Perfect for families, groups, and individuals. Phase I of the Jackson Hole Ferrata was completed in the fall of 2016 on Ranger Ridge and in Casper Bowl, and is America’s first U.S. Forest Service-approved Via Ferrata. It presents classic Teton terrain – steep and rugged – through guided ascents. Call 307-739-2779 for reservations. See page 78 for feature article.
Hiking The aerial tram opens up a hiking experience unlike any other in the Jackson Hole area. Ascending 4,139 feet in just 9 minutes, the tram settles travelers at 10,450 feet amidst the high peaks of the Southern Tetons. From this lofty starting point hikers can explore a vast trail network connecting Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, Bridger-Teton National Forest, and Grand Teton National Park. The Cirque Trail winds down through spectacular Tensleep Bowl, traverses The Cirque, descends the Headwall, and arrives at the Bridger Gondola top-station. There the traveler might linger at The Deck for a signature cocktail and a bite to eat or ride the Gondola back to the Village base. Teewinot chairlift conveys those out for a more modest stroll to the beautiful Valley Trail and the Seven Bridges Trail. Continued next page
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A 20-minute tandem flight with Jackson Hole Paragliding’s certified pilots guarantees one of the more memorable ways to descend from the mountain’s summit.
Tandem Paragliding A 20-minute tandem flight with Jackson Hole Paragliding guarantees one of the more memorable ways to descend from the mountain’s summit. Certified pilots who’ve logged hundreds of hours flying in the Tetons are well equipped to introduce first-timers to the unique experience of tandem paragliding. For more information or to make a reservation, call (307) 739-2626.
All photos courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort
For a revealing trek from the base area, head uphill under the tramline to the Wildflower Trail. Hardy hikers can link Teton Village to the top of the Bridger Gondola, and the hardiest can even link it to the tram’s summit. For short hikes, though, this trail works well as an out-and-back. Several scenic-point benches allow the weary or wonderstruck to take in the wildflower-strewn views of the valley while comfortably seated. Because Jackson Hole Mountain Resort shares a boundary with Grand Teton National Park (GTNP), its visitors are ideally placed to experience a flourishing natural environment. A detailed trail-guide book and topographical map are musts for those planning to head into GTNP. All backcountry camping requires a permit and park-approved bear-spray canister, which can be obtained at park ranger stations or visitor centers. During the 2019 summer operating season, on-mountain construction may limit or alter routes on hiking/biking trails. Please ask the guest service center for an updated map.
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Concerts on the Commons is a live-music series featuring nationally renowned artists every Sunday at 5 p.m. during July and August.
All photos courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort
Bungee Trampoline Kids and adults alike enthusiastically flock to the trampolines for allaround family fun. Surprising how high one can jump (24 feet, safely) or the tricks that can be achieved through this fun-packed summer activity.
Disc Golf Play 18 holes of Frisbee golf on the free course near the base of the resort. Bring your own discs or buy them at JH Sports.
Alive @ Five The entire family will enjoy these free weekly programs on the Village Commons, from 5 to 6 p.m., Tuesday through Thursday, June 25 to August 15. On Raptor Tuesdays stop by the Village Commons amphitheater anytime between 5-6 pm for a unique and up-close learning experience with live raptors from Teton Raptor Center. On Winged Wednesdays, hawks, falcons, eagles, and owls take center stage with an educational and engaging presentation from the Teton Raptor Center beginning at 5 p.m. Visit the center’s website at tetonraptorcenter.org. On Wild Things Thursdays, visitors can join Wild Things of Wyoming at 5 p.m. for an interactive and engaging experience about the animals that make Wyoming their home. More info at wildthingsofwyoming.com. RPK-3 Kitchen, Bar & Aprés – RPK-3 is the newest slope-side dining establishment in Teton Village. Conveniently located adjacent to the Tram, RPK 3 is the kitchen and bar offering fast casual lunch, a lively après scene, and everything in-between. RPK-3’s menu will satisfy any outdoor adventure seeker, and boasts a mix of healthful comfort food and hot and cold beverages. Open daily for lunch! Rendezvous Lodge at Bridger Gondola Summit – At the 9,095foot summit of the Bridger Gondola, the Rendezvous Lodge invites patrons into three unique offerings. Piste Mountain Bistro – Piste is a French word meaning “a marked path down a mountain for snow skiing and snowboarding.” For many,
On-mountain Dining
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a journey along this type of mountain trail is a reward in its own right, but in the Rendezvous Lodge at the top of the Bridger Gondola, it takes on a new meaning. Open daily for dinner, 5-9 p.m.; reservations recommended. The Deck @ Piste – The best view in Jackson Hole can be found at The Deck, and so can one of the valley’s best happy hours. Grab a free Gondola ride up and enjoy Teton views while looking for wildlife below. The al fresco kitchen boasts a summer menu of appetizers and shared plates. Off Piste – Off Piste Market is the newest addition to the Rendezvous Lodge. Pick up a snack for the backpack or sit down and take in mountain views over a hot slice of Sicilian pizza. Full espresso bar, gourmet food, beer, wine, and small essentials like sunscreen, batteries, and even phone-charging stations. Open 9 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Corbet’s Cabin – Ride the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram to the summit and enter Corbet’s Cabin at “The Top of the World” for a lasting visual and gustatory memory of sweet or savory waffles made on the spot. The Cabin also serves up hot drinks, cold beverages, beer, grab-n-goitems, and tram souvenirs. Relax and enjoy snacks on the outdoor deck while soaking up expansive valley views. — Adventure Guide
Hostel
Enjoy a comfortable & affordable stay in Teton Village at the base of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. We have private rooms & beds in shared bunkrooms, both include a private bathroom. WiFi and organic coffee service included. High season: $99–$139 (Sleeps 1-4 people) Low season: $49–$89 (Sleeps 1-4 people) Bunk room: $32–$47 3315 Village Drive, Teton Village, WY 307-733-3415 www.thehostel.us, info@thehostel.us 2 0 1 9 G R A N D T E TO N & YE L LOWS TO N E A DV E N T U R E G U I D E
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Snow King Mountain Resort
Wade McKoy photos
HAPPY 80 T H BIRTHDAY
J ackson
Boy, that Cowboy Coaster sure has been a ski looks like fun! town since the 1900s, when The designers of Cache/Game’s residents cured cabin fever singletrack are mountain bikers themselves, so it’s no surprise during the long winters by that this link to Snow King rates getting out on skis to visit among the world’s best. neighbors and the general store. In 1939, enterprising locals built a rope tow, and dowhhill skiing was born in Jackson Hole. Cobbled together from an old cable used for drilling in Casper, Wyoming, it was powered by an old Ford tractor. Wyoming’s first single chairlift followed in 1947. For decades Snow King Mountain has served as a training ground for everyone from local kids learning to ski to the nation’s top racers and Olympians. And as with most ski areas, the development of new attractions and warmweather offerings has helped keep the lifts spinning. Eighty years on, the “Town Hill” is a year-round hub where everyone gathers to get their adrenalin pumping.
This small but mighty mountain has it all: stunning views, skiing and snowboarding, hiking, mountain biking, and myriad summer and winter attractions.
Treetop Adventure Park, Ropes Course, and Ziplines Built by world-class mountain guides, this fantastical adventure park features almost 100 aerial challenges (and the only ziplines in the Tetons) snaking through pine forests affording views of the Grand Teton. After a safety briefing, participants test their limits in this secure, natural environment. They clip in and ride zip lines, shimmy over suspended bridges, scramble up nets, cross swinging logs, and even ride an aerial skateboard. The kids-only Flying Squirrel course is the ultimate playground for the 7-12 crowd. Its massive side-by-side Tarzan Swing complements Snow King’s first-rate Leadership Development and Teambuilding programs.
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Cowboy Coaster Summer and winter, the thrilling Cowboy Coaster, a state-of-the-art alpine coaster designed in Austria, takes riders 456 feet up the mountain, then lets them loose to twist and turn down through the trees. This exhilarating roller-coaster ride sports four 360-degree corkscrew turns—some four stories tall. And because riders control their speed on this attraction, kids as young as three years old can ride with a parent.
Alpine Slide
The Treetop Adventure features almost 100 aerial challenges that snake through the pine forests on Snow King Mountain.
The Alpine Slide, predecessor to the mountain coaster, starts with a relaxing ride up the mountain on the Raffety chairlift and is followed by a cruise on a wheeled sled through wildflowers. Flying through twists and turns on one of two side-by-side tracks, pi2 0 1 9 G R A N D T E TO N & YE L LOWS TO N E A DV E N T U R E G U I D E
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Hiking up Snow King, right, is an activity many locals repeat daily. The zip line, below, provides a final rush as the dismount for Treetop Adventure participants. lots negotiate banked turns and hairpin thrills at their own pace. It’s an exciting journey down 350 feet over the halfmile track at speeds up to 25 miles per hour.
Scenic Chairlift Ride This leisurely ride conveys folks 1,571 feet to Snow King Mountain’s summit for 360-degree views of the Tetons, the Elk Refuge, and Jackson. On a clear day riders can see all the way to Yellowstone. Folks of all ages and fitness levels can enjoy the breathtaking natural beauty of Jackson Hole and access a self-guided nature trail and miles of hiking.
Bungee Trampoline A high-energy activity for those as young as three years old, the bungee trampoline at the Rafferty Activities area makes backflips and belly flops possible for kids and adults strapped into a harness attached to bungee towers.
Miniature Golf
Bob Woodall
Miniature golf, an American classic, has returned to the base of Snow King. The 18-hole course features a waterfall and a pond as it travels through multiple levels and unique challenges.
Amaze’n Maze From farm-field extravaganzas to garden creations to nuts-and-bolts urban attractions, mazes are drawing enthusiasts. Snow King’s Amaze’n Maze aims to sharpen the maze runners’ navigational skills while they compete for the fastest time. Find the four checkpoints that spell “maze” and exit as quickly as possible. Fastest times win prizes.
Paragliding Join professional paragliding pilots for an exhilarating tandem flight with a professional paragliding pilot. This one-of-a-kind experience from the summit of Snow King Mountain will have sky pilots soaring over the town of Jackson while taking in breathtaking views of the valley, the National Elk Refuge, and the Grand Teton.
Hiking Get that heart pumping on the 1.8-mile Summit Trail, ascending 1,571 vertical feet. Gorgeous views of the town and valley of Jackson Hole reveal why locals “Climb the King” on a weekly or even a daily basis. The Snow King Mountain trail system, popular with local hikers and cyclists, is also a connector for the Cache Creek and Game Creek trail systems.
Biking The single-track trail system in the Greater Snow King Area holds some of the world’s best mountain biking. Riders can choose short, medium, long, and even epic routes. Mountain bikes, electric bikes, pathways bikes, and child trailers can be rented at Snow King Mountain Sports at Snow King Hotel.
Wade McKoy
Bouldering
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Teton Boulder Park at the base of Snow King boasts two artificial climbing boulders, one for kids and one that is said to be the largest artificial climbing rock in the world. The bigger one includes realistic cracks and flakes, and both features are covered with artificial climbing holds. In summer, it isn’t uncommon to see either covered
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The Scenic Chairlift Ride conveys folks 1,571 feet to Snow King Mountain’s summit – and back down – for 360-degree views of the Tetons, the Elk Refuge, and Jackson. Photo courtesy Snow King Mountain Resort
of the Summit chairlift every Wednesday, from 4-7 p.m., May 29 to September 18. This is a big draw—for hominids, so leave the canines home. For details, go online at tetonslowfood.org.
Dining
with elite climbers. And it’s free! Built by a nonprofit, volunteer organization, it also celebrates the climbing history of the Teton Range.
Big King Pass Spend a full day and sample all of Snow King Mountain’s activities by purchasing this baby for unlimited access to the Cowboy Coaster, Mini-Golf, Alpine Slide, Amaze’n Maze, Bungee Trampoline, the Scenic Chairlift, and a run through the Tree Top Adventure Park. Nab great deals by booking online at snowkingmountain.com.
People’s Market Also enlivening the base area is the People’s Market, a farmers’ market/outdoor food enterprise offering locally grown produce as well as baked goods, meat and dairy products, and crafts from some two dozen area vendors. The People’s Market pitches its tents near the base
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Dining in the Snow King Resort District provides a reprieve from the busy Town Square and adds outdoor seating and inspiring panoramic vistas. King’s Grill in the Rafferty Base area—boasting fast, casual, up-styled American café fare, cold beer, wine and ice cream—might be the best place to sit and watch the kids have fun. Hayden’s Post in the Snow King Hotel is a bit more sophisticated, a sit-down restaurant where local ingredients are the star of every course: for example, eggs benedict with farm-fresh eggs for breakfast, bison chili for lunch, and trout almandine with fried brussels sprouts for dinner. The new StillWest Brewery and Grill offers open-air, mountain-side dining on the patio overlooking Snow King Mountain. Artfully crafted beers, inspired cocktails, and top-notch wine and spirits are paired with comestibles made from scratch and sourced from local purveyors. StillWest’s ground floor is home to Brewhouse Coffee, retail shopping, and a Growler/ Crowler fill station.
Live Music JacksonHoleLive, a free family-friendly outdoor concert series at Snow King Ball Park, kicks off on Father’s Day (Sunday, June 16) with its annual Crawfish Boil. The best opportunity to rub elbows and dance with the locals, but be sure to check the schedule of artists at jackonholelive.com. — Adventure Guide
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Grand Targhee Resort CELEBRATING 50 YEARS
High on the western slope of the Teton Range, settled
among spruce, fir, pine, and aspen, sits Grand Targhee, a complete, year-round resort. Over 2,600 acres of terrain perfect for hiking, biking, horseback riding, music festivals and, of course, skiing lie upon three mountain peaks. From the tops of those peaks, visitors can easily imagine reaching out and touching the nearby magnificent Tetons.
Scenic Chairlift Ride A ride up the Dreamcatcher chairlift to the 9,862-foot summit of Fred’s Mountain guarantees the best Teton views possible – and without ever breaking a sweat. The lift can jump-start a spectacular high-altitude hike or access relaxed inspiring sightseeing. At the top, visit with Nature Center staff. Take a bike up the lift, too, as long as it’s of the downhill variety. Habitat, Grand Targhee’s go-to biking shop located at the base of the mountain during the summer months, has everything needed to enjoy the downhill and cross-country bike trails.
Mountain Bike Explore 61-plus miles of multi-use trails, including a new “flow park,” ideal for perfecting downhill and cross-country bike skills. The Grand
Wade McKoy
The Grand Targhee Loop is a 27-mile venture listed an Epic Ride by the International Mountain Bicycling Association. Riders: Holly McKoy and Pam Weiss.
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Wade McKoy photos
Rhiannon Giddens performs at Targhee Fest last summer (both photos). Targhee Bike Park offers every style of riding for every level of mountain biker: gentle banked cruisers, tight and twisty single-track, cross-country, and gnarly, rock-strewn downhill with drop-offs. Lift-assisted rides start with Sidewinder to Lightning Ridge and Loop trails. Then, finish with Colter’s Escape for the longest descent on the mountain. The resort hosts a variety of downhill and cross-country races and closes out the summer with the annual Wydaho Rendezvous Mountain Bike Festival. Check out Targhee’s Bike School for lessons and tours. Roadies will love riding the 12-mile paved section from Driggs up to the resort, where they’ll enjoy breathtaking views of the Grand Tetons. Bike rentals, sales, and service are available through Habitat at the resort and also at Habitat in downtown Driggs.
Climbing Wall & Bungee Trampoline The fun and challenge of sport climbing is available right at the base area. The resort’s experienced staff will help coach recreationists to the top of its specially designed climbing wall. Suitable for all ages and great for learning, the outdoor climbing wall offers six different routes. Good for children and first-timers or exContinued next page
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The Tetons lay at the doorstep of Grand Targhee. Pictured: Charlotte Moats and Dave Coon. perienced climbers. Each climb includes instructor, harness, and belay. EuroBungy, the resort’s bungee trampoline hybrid, provides an exhilarating experience where novices can bounce and flip while safely tethered.
Disc Golf The 18-hole Grand Targhee Disc Golf Course plays through rolling aspen meadows at 8,000 feet! Frisbees seem to float farther at highalpine elevation, promising drives that are sometimes over 550 feet. Long holes, short holes, and everything in between—this is not your standard wide-open area. The course favors players with an arsenal of throwing techniques, from standard backhand and forehand to tomahawks. Beginners and experts alike will be challenged!
Hike Hikes at the resort vary in length, from a half-mile to 3.2 miles, and wind through wildflower-laced meadows, aspen forests, and may even offer a glimpse of the local wildlife. All ensure stunning views of the
Grand Targhee Resort
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Grand Tetons. Stop at the Nature Center to learn about the local ecology and wildlife, and sign up for a guided hike.
Horseback Trail Rides A good horse is still a prized Western companion and the best mode of travel for a long tour through these mountains. The local cowboys at Haviland’s Western Horseback Riding Adventures can saddle up a trusty steed and show riders the mountains the old-fashioned way. Explore the Tetons and the Caribou-Targhee National Forest by horseback. Face it: horses can take cowpokes a lot farther than their own two feet can. Private horseback riding is not allowed on any hiking or mountain biking trails. Children must be 6 years old for the trail rides. Children 5 and under may do the corral rides.
Nature Center & Naturalist Programs During summer months, that Rocky Mountain journey can start at the resort’s Nature Center, located just off the plaza, or at its new Summit Nature Center at the top of Dreamcatcher. Both sites offer a feel for the critters and plants found there. From moose to pine martin, lupine to forget-me-not, the center provides a feast for the eyes, ears, and nose on some of the Lower 48’s purest landscape.
Grand Targhee Resort offers affordable lodging options at the base of the mountain or vacation rentals in Teton Valley. Enjoy convenient access to summer adventures including mountain biking, hiking, horseback riding, fly fishing, and much more.
Gemstone mining and archeological discoveries come to life with Grand Targhee Mining Co. Each bag of mining rough gives kids the opportunity to uncover and find real treasures while panning their claim in the interactive sluice.
Alta, Wyoming 83414 1-800-TARGHEE 307-353-2300 www.GrandTarghee.com
No one goes hungry at Grand Targhee, no matter what time it is. The Branding Iron Grill, the resort’s signature dining experience, offers a menu inspired by fresh and locally farmed ingredients. The Trap Bar & Grill, an après-ski institution for over 40 years, serves pub fare and more
Grand Targhee Mining Company
Dining & Shopping
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Mark O’Connor Band, Sam Bush Band. Saturday: Jeff Austin Band, Tommy Emmanuel & Jerry Douglas, David Bromberg Quintet, Railroad Earth, The Infamous Stringdusters. Sunday: Town Mountain, Travelin’ McCourys, Del McCoury Band and Travelin’ McCourys, Greensky Bluegrass. Pickers and fiddlers can even come early for the 14th Annual Targhee Music Camp, Aug 5-8, to learn from some of the music world’s best acoustic musicians and teachers.
than 12 beers on tap, including many from local breweries. Snorkels Bistro and Wild Bill’s round out the eateries. The latest styles and gear are just steps away from Targhee lodging at Teton Mountain Outfitters and The Board Shop. Or stock up on staples at The General Store. Habitat in nearby Driggs carries a full complement of lifestyle soft goods.
Music
Wade McKoy photos
15th Annual Targhee Music Fest From Friday to Sunday, July 12-14, an eclectic gathering of bands take the stage in a natural outdoor amphitheater adjacent to Targhee’s base-area plaza. Catch these performances Friday: The Commonheart, Nicki Bluhm, Taj Mahal Quartet, and Los Lobos. Saturday: Hawthorne Roots, Anders Osborne, Larkin Poe, Dumpstaphunk, Galactic, Drive-By Truckers fill the stage. Sunday: Amy Helm, Ryan Bingham, The Motet, Trombone Shorty, and Orleans Avenue go to work under the Tetons. Games and on-site activities are all a part of this summer music festival. On-site tent camping is available during the festival weekend. Take advantage of the free shuttle service and leave your vehicle in Driggs.
Lodging Three Western-style lodges are located in the high alpine village, just steps from the lifts and trails. A wide range of condominiums, vacation homes, and town homes are available a short distance from the resort.
The Grand Targhee Activity Pass Sample the ‘Ghee’s climbing wall, its EuroBungy, and its scenic chairlift ride into slope-side landscape through this ticket into adventure. And get this: the pass also includes a Prospector’s 2pound bag of gemstone mining rough. Kids can even pan for fun at Grand Targhee Mining Co. sluice.
32nd Annual Targhee Bluegrass Festival
— Adventure Guide
From Friday to Sunday, August 9-11, here’s this summer’s lineup. Friday: Laney Lou and the Bird Dogs, The Lil Smokies,
Targhee’s singletrack bike trails reveal nature’s fullness. Pictured: Pam Weiss and Holly McKoy
SUMMER IN THE TETONS HIKE. BIKE. ADVENTURE. • TARGHEE FEST JULY 12 - 14 • BLUEGRASS FESTIVAL AUGUST 9 - 11 • AWARD-WINNING BIKE PARK
• • • • •
HIKING DISC GOLF HORSEBACK RIDES SUMMER CAMPS AND MORE!
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HOW TO KEEP A GREAT DAY GREAT What’s in your pack? By David Swift
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t’s tempting to ignore signage or common sense around enthralling landscape, brushing off nature’s potential for lethality. You would not do that. Still, you don’t have to disobey signage to risk a major oopsie — it’s that free and wild out here. Welcome to our lovely, deep, high, and peril-rich mountains.
Headlamp. At least a flashlight. The latest LED lamps are cheap, efficient, and nearly weightless. Knife. Extra points for it having a corkscrew. Map. Plus compass. Trails around here are well marked, well worn. The moment a trail looks specious, calmly do a 180 and return to the spot where you stopped paying attention. Unguents. Bug juice. Pepper spray for bears. (Please don’t go looking to actually use it.) Sun block. Lipschmeer. Ponder taking . . . Sunglasses. Blister protection; if you feel a bit of rubbing within the first mile of your hike, a blister is imminent. One hundred feet of 1/4-inch parachute cord — I carry it, use it once every three years. Heavy-duty plastic trash bags weigh nada, take no space, and separate dry things from wet things. Mobile phone. Don’t fall for those purity-of-backcountry sentiments. Carry it but turn it off. If you really need it you want battery life. It’s harder than ever in the West to find a place with no signal. To get a signal, find a place on the mountain that gives most line of sight to civilization. Just don’t call because someone’s tired. Expect to be invoiced for a rescue. Changeable terrain. Somewhere up the trail you may enter a parallel dimension where an ice axe is essential. Welcome to mountaineering. Mountaineering requires training in the use of this elegant and sharp stick, which is often accessorized with shoe spikes, aka crampons. If you come across steep snow with no way to stick to it, turn around lest you court an injury of all-too-common an origin. Mammals gone wild. Deer and elk usually have the common sense to bolt well before you see them. Moose and bison don’t have such a huge personal space. They’ll pretend to ignore you, sucking you in for a tighter shot. Hence the term “sucker.” Once they decide you are a threat, you are too close for any retreat. Bison go from zero-to-your-spleen in scarcely more than a nanosecond. With their hooves and antlers, moose are preprogrammed to turn you into a free-form sculpture. Bear confrontations forever spark disagreement on the best coping strategy; I won’t pretend to have the last word on that. Best to avoid that predicament in the first place. Make noise as you amble. Bears are not shy about breaking and entering for food, either tents or cars. There’s no shortage of preventive techniques available courtesy of park rangers. If you can manage to be attacked by a wolf, be prepared to become the star of a nationwide media feeding frenzy. Now you know enough to be not as dangerous. Plan your route, tell people where you are going, and err on the side of leisure rather than heroics. (You can embellish later.) This is for three reasons: for the benefit of your loved ones near and far whose lives you don’t wish to disrupt; for the benefit of society at large because we all have better things to do than to go looking for you; and for the good name of your progeny, who don’t want to Google a family member and have the Darwin Awards website come up as the first hit.
Wade McKoy photos
Perhaps you gaze at their majesty, raring to become intimate with that which remains well hidden from roadside turnouts. Perhaps you don’t feel much at all—just an urge to wander in the woods, to see what the big deal is. Whether you are tuned-in or oblivious, you may also have an urge to feel free, to shun encumbrances. Remember this: they shoot those wildin-nature SUV commercials with an enormous crew cropped out of the money shot. In order of probability, your bad day will be due to weather, crummy planning, getting lost, overconfidence, bad luck, or wildlife. Land two or three of these happenstances simultaneously and you’re a goner. By far, bad weather leads to most epics simply because becoming wet quickly complicates matters. Wetness leads to slower progress, rapid loss of body heat, disorientation, falls, early darkness and the occasional 50,000-degree F bolt of lightning. Cruelly, high exposed places that offer the best cell phone reception also offer the best lightning reception. Hiking in the steep-walled Tetons is a classic trap. You won’t see clouds until they’re literally on top of you. Leave your car under all-blue skies, scramble to a lofty perch by lunchtime, unwrap your PB&J, and a gloaming canopy of wetness appears as if by magic. Happens all the time. Acknowledging the ever-shifting nature of “necessity,” the following are high up on the list of things to haul:
Water. Sip water constantly. You’re probably at a higher altitude than accustomed, so your heart and lungs are working to adjust. Constant hydration keeps you cooler in heat and warmer in cold. If you’re not peeing a bit more than usual, you’re not drinking enough water. If you’re wondering whether they are utilitarian or merely fashionable, Camelbacks and similar water packs have become a standard feature amongst serious roamers. For a day trip or longer, tote a water filter or similar purifying scheme. Food. Splurge, taking more than you need. Make it real food. Current trend: protein and fat with a side of electrolytes, fresh fruit for dessert. Eschew sugar-waters — expensive water — which is nearly every bottled drink out there. Layers. A base layer, pile jacket, and a shell means you’ll withstand a long picnic on a breezy, exposed ridge. If the shell is waterproof, all the better. Add a foam butt pad, hat, gloves, and bottom layers and the always-miraculous puffy jacket and suddenly you’re prepared for quite the ordeal. Lighter. Fire good—but for desperate situations only. If you’re reading this in the far future: did the entire West finally go up in one big beetle-kill inferno?
David Swift, who passed away recently, described himself as “a selfdeployed image-oriented propagandist who exists in Jackson, Wyoming, a small resort town noted for its recent outbreak of $2 coffee, no refills.”
Be prepared. GET THE APP www.BackcountrySOS.com
Quickly & accurately provide your status & location to first-responders in a backcountry emergency. Free. No account setup required. yellowstoneadventureguide.com
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ALPINE MEDICAL ADVICE An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure
St. John’s Medical Center Medical Director, Emergency Department
A
nybody can have an accident. People hurt themselves all the time just walking around the Town Square. Lacerations, twisted ankles, burns from the campfire, and other minor traumas are still the main reasons we see summertime adventurers in the emergency room. It’s the other range of preventable issues that we’d hope to see less of. Here’s some practical advice that will help keep your interactions with our hospital staff on a social level and far away from the Emergency Room.
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TREKKING IN THE TETONS
Some of the most dramatic accidents occur in the high mountains of GTNP when an individual takes a big fall. Usually this occurs on the descent from an otherwise enjoyable day of hiking and climbing. To avoid this scenario make sure to save enough energy for the way down—don’t become passive or inattentive while descending. Also, if you are going to encounter snow or ice on your trek, bring an ice axe. This is a lightweight piece of equipment that you will appreciate when it’s needed.
ALTITUDE SICKNESS
Acute mountain sickness (AMS). Symptoms, which may be mild or severe, include headache, fatigue, lightheadedness, lack of appetite, frequent waking from sleep, and nausea. The most common prevention for AMS is to ascend slowly over a period of several days, which allows the body to adjust. For vacationers to Jackson Hole, though, hydration is the number-one protection against altitude sickness. Avoid over-exertion the day before you travel and during the first few days at altitude. Arrive on your vacation rested, not exhausted. Avoid alcoholic beverages and sleeping pills. They inhibit proper acclimatization. If you drink coffee or other beverages with caffeine, don’t stop. It’s safe at high altitudes and stopping suddenly can actually cause AMS-like symptoms. If you develop signs of AMS, you should return to valley elevations. Do not go higher until your symptoms have resolved, which usually occurs within 24 hours. Rest and avoid drinking alcohol and taking sedatives or sleeping pills as you recover. Aspirin and other anti-inflammatories, like ibuprofen, can help prevent a headache that often occurs with AMS.
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Wade McKoy; SUP: Aaron Pruzan
By Jeffrey Greenbaum, MD
TIPS TO HELP KEEP YOU SAFE
The Upper Snake River runs the length of Jackson Hole and then flows into the Snake River Canyon, where Class III+ whitewater draws many recreationists. The river is fed by snowmelt from the mountains, so the water temperature can be frigid. If you are going rafting or kayaking, you can avoid hypothermia by dressing in specialty clothing such as a wet suit or a dry top. Also, it’s important to know that cold water alone can cause certain individuals to go into a cardiac arrest. If you have a history of heart disease, you should consider this before venturing out.
MOUNTAIN BIKING
Mountain biking falls are inevitable, even for those with a wealth of experience. As in much of life, it’s not whether you fall but how you land that will determine your fate. Collar bone injuries are common with this activity, but they can be avoided with proper technique and practice. Start off slowly and avoid taking chances until you learn how to balance your bike in all conditions. Ride within your ability and don’t let friends or family push you too hard. Body armor and padding is recommended.
Bob Woodall
THE UPPER SNAKE RIVER
GENERAL SUMMER ADVICE
Most accidents in Jackson Hole will be complicated by our local climate and geography. Summertime temperatures in the mountains can change from warm to cold quickly, and your location in the mountains might preclude communication via cell phone and therefore delay rescue. Always bring warm clothing and extra food and water. When in doubt hire a guide or outfitter.
Dr. Jeffrey Greenbaum
Dr. AJ Wheeler
Dr. Dan Nelson
“When going for a hike in the Tetons and surrounding forests always bring extra clothing and be prepared for sudden changes in weather. Even though its 80 degrees in the valley, temperatures in the mountains can dip rapidly if a storm moves in.” — Dr. Jeff Greenbaum—Medical Director SJMC Emergency Dept. “You never know when an emergency may occur and you will need to call for help. Download the free Backcountry SOS app that can help rescuers in Teton County find you.”
— Dr. AJ Wheeler—Medical Director GTNP Emergency Medical Services
“Leave your headphones at home when traveling in the backcountry. Your ability to detect wildlife and others recreating is substantially limited and could result in dangerous collisions or encounters.” — Dr. Dan Nelson—Medical Director Grand Targhee Ski Patrol
Quality Medical Care Away From Home Immediate medical attention for injuries and illnesses Walk-ins welcome Same day appointments available On-site x-ray and lab Hours: Monday–Friday: 9 am–7 pm Saturday–Sunday: 10 am–4 pm
307.739.8999 tetonhospital.org/urgent
1415 S Highway 89, Jackson (Smith’s Food Center Plaza) yellowstoneadventureguide.com
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WATER WORLD T
Explore the liquid gems of mountain country
eton and Yellowstone country is blessed with water, lots of it. Perfectly clear and startlingly cold, runoff cascades down mountains as winter snows melt throughout spring, summer, and fall. It pools hundreds of feet deep in lakes and reservoirs at times mirror smooth, at other
times furious and white-capped. But rivers of snowmelt also braid the landscape, creating sparkling flat water, riffles, and, of course, rapids. Summer fun in mountain country should include an outing on the water. Choose a craft and get going on an unforgettable adventure.
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WHITEWATER FLOAT TRIPS
The eight-mile whitewater stretch of the Snake River just below Jackson Hole may offer the country’s finest one-day introduction to rapids. Book early, though, especially during those hot summer afternoons, when everybody is looking for a splash in the face.
SCENIC FLOAT TRIPS
NATIONAL WILD AND SCENIC RIVER
Spearheaded in recent years by the local river community, over 400 miles of the Snake River now receive federal protection, including stretches through Grand Teton National Park, the canyon, and conflu-
James Kaiser photo courtesy OARS
Wade McKoy photos
The scenic upper section of the Snake is much different than its whitewater counterpart. The OARS (Outdoor Adventure River Specialists) outfit knows that, and has been guiding whitewater rafting in the western U.S. since 1969. The river’s upper reaches are calmer, but still fast-moving, coursing through a network of side and main channels. The shoreline varies
greatly along these sections of river. Dense forests of spruce and lodge pole pine give way to stands of cottonwood and aspen, home ground for beavers. All the animal species of Jackson Hole use this river-bottom habitat at one time or another. Rafters frequently spy moose, elk, deer, bison, pronghorn antelope, eagle, osprey, duck, river otter, muskrat and – for the sharp-eyed – fine-spotted Snake River cutthroat trout. Occasionally a black or grizzly bear makes an appearance, sometimes even a wolf.
Paddling a sea kayak on Jenny Lake combines the peace and serenity of the great outdoors with an easy and pleasant physical activity. Kayaker: Sasha Bogdanovics (left). Stand Up Paddelboarding in the Snake River Canyon at low flow gives watermen another way to play (top). Pictured: Aaron Pruzan (rt), Corey Milligan (left). Scenic float trips on the upper Snake River through Grand Teton National Park are easy on the eyes and the pocketbook (above).
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At 7,732 feet above sea level, Yellowstone Lake is the largest freshwater body above 7,000 feet in North America. Kayaker: Bissell Hazen in the Southest Arm. Continued from page 53
ences with a dozen tributaries. The regulations enacted by this designation should help the sensitive ecosystem remain healthy and vibrant, ensuring that future generations may also enjoy this remarkable river. (Visit snakeriverfund.org.)
SEA KAYAKING
Sea kayaking the alpine lakes of Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks promises an unusual mix of tranquility and excitement. “Our lake-kayaking experiences are comparable to the world-renowned areas of the Baja, Maine, the San Juan Islands, and Alaska,” said Aaron Pruzan, co-founder of Rendezvous River Sports. Pruzan began kayaking and exploring the rivers of Wyoming and Idaho in the early 1990s.
White-water kayakers revere the opportunities available in the Snake River Canyon, a Wild and Scenic designated waterway.
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Wade McKoy (top)
Bob Woodall
Jackson Lake, Grand Teton National Park With a stunning Teton backdrop, this 40-squaremile reservoir has numerous put-ins to access a variety of day-trip options. Paddlers enjoy seemingly endless shorelines, and numerous inlets and islands frequented by moose, elk, deer, bear, and bald eagles. OARS offers several paddling trips into GTNP that include overnight camping. One excursion includes either one or two nights on Jackson Lake and a Snake River float trip. Campsites dot the broad shoreline where guests bed down under star-studded skies at the base of the Tetons. Grassy Island, an idyllic campsite in Moran Bay, sits directly beneath the towering peaks. From there, guests can hike deep into the Teton backcountry, wander up Moran Canyon, or stroll over to Leigh Lake — and then take a dip in the snow-fed
Shoshone Lake, Yellowstone NP Restricted to paddle craft only, the distant waters of Shoshone Lake guarantee peace and quiet for visitors. “There are no motorboats once you leave Lewis Lake,” said Pruzan. “The remoteness, the quiet, the hiking in Shoshone Geyser Basin—it’s sublime.” The three-day excursion launches from Lewis Lake boat ramp. Paddlers follow the shoreline’s fields, forests, and hot pools to the inlet. After navigating a few miles of small river channel, boaters glide into Shoshone Lake.
James Kaiser photo courtesy OARS
waters once back in camp. Another package includes four or five nights on Jackson Lake and provides for exploring both GTNP and Yellowstone National Park. Jackson Lake Dam raises the natural lake’s level by 30 feet and provides 847,000 acre feet of water used for irrigation on Idaho farms. Before its waters head south, though, paddlers can enjoy the expanded horizon and beckoning shorelines.
Exploring the large alpine lakes in Yellowstone promises an unusual mix of tranquility and excitement.
Yellowstone Lake At 7,732 feet above sea level, Yellowstone Lake is the largest freshwater body above 7,000 feet in North America. The stunning waters rest a thousand feet higher than Jackson Lake and claim nearly three times the acreage. It’s a natural lake, too, with a surface area of 136 square miles. The lake’s average depth is 139 feet, but some portions plumb 390 feet.
Half-day tours – Boaters can probe these waters safely along the shores of West Thumb on a short paddling excursion offered by OARS. Guests paddle next to caves where boiling water drips into the cold lake while bubbles from lake-bottom thermal vents steam up around their boats. Guides recount the origins of sites like Fishing Cone Geyser, for example, where early visitors caught cutthroat trout and cooked them in the geyser. Continued next page
SEA KAYAKING IN YELLOWSTONE & GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARKS JOIN OARS FOR VIP ACCESS TO GRAND TETON & YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARKS ON A ½- TO 6-DAY SEA KAYAK ADVENTURE Ȕ Paddle the pristine waters of Jackson Lake Ȕ Enjoy cozy, catered camping under a star-filled sky Ȕ ([SORUH WKH DUHDȍV JHRORJLF DQG QDWXUDO history with our knowledgeable guides Ȕ 'LVFRYHU <HOORZVWRQH /DNHȍV JHRWKHUPDO wonders from your kayak! O.A.R.S. West Inc. is an authorized concessioner of Grand Teton National Park and a licensed commercial permit holder in Yellowstone National Park
“Perfect vacation without the hassle of planning or driving. All equipment and food is provided and excellent guides!” Read more reviews like this on TripAdvisor.com
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CALL US TODAY!
1-800-446-7238 or book online at oars.com/wyoming
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Wade McKoy Paddling a boat on Jenny Lake might include a quick dip – with the right attitude and gear. Pictured: Sasha Bogdanovics. Rendezvous River Sports also guides day-paddling tours in West Thumb. The outfit knows Yellowstone Lake well, and for full immersion, recommends camping: Backcountry Overnights – “We go along the south shore of West
Thumb, through The Narrows, and around Breeze Point to a really nice campsite,” said Pruzan. “It’s a great one-night if people want to get into the backcountry a little ways. Not many power boats in that zone. In two days we can access Flat Mountain Arm. It’s really pretty, with amazing views of the Absaroka Range, the Trident Peaks, Mount Stevenson, and Doane Peak.” A circumnavigation of Yellowstone Lake’s roadless shoreline, from Sedge Creek Bay to West Thumb, takes five to seven days. The five-day version involves cutting across the imposing open water of the South Arm. A guide can help. The end of the the interior compartments with scalding Southeast Arm of Yellowstone Lake is about as far (140 degrees F) water to remove and kill away from people as you can get in the Lower 48. any AIS that may be on the watercraft. Slide Lake, Bridger-Teton National Forest After decontamination, the watercraft Slide Lake, created in 1925 when a landslide will be inspected again to ensure the dedammed the Gros Ventre River, is an ideal place for contamination was successful. WaterRendezvous River Sports to teach kayaking. Off the craft that are heavily infested with AIS beaten path, the lake’s quiet waters also afford may require a quarantine to kill any AIS tremendous views of the Red Hills to the east and that may not have been killed during a the Tetons to the west. decontamination. Only an authorized inspector can deSTAND UP PADDLE BOARD contaminate watercraft in Wyoming. The Stand-up paddle boarding, also called SUP, water used at car washes does not claimed its fame years ago as the fastest growing reach the high temperatures needed to water sport in the world. It migrated into the Rocky kill AIS; what’s more, the effluent may Mountains from coastal cultures – notably, from its drain into a waterway and spread any ancient Hawaiian roots. Here in mountain country, AIS washed from the watercraft. It is two distinct versions of SUP help enthusiasts ply the best to decontaminate watercraft on a waters. dirt or gravel surface where the effluent River – The Snake River’s many and varied water water can evaporate. features create a first-rate playground for stand-up Hot water or drying are the only appaddle boarders. From its flat water and small riffles, proved decontamination methods in eddies and waves, to its bigger and more powerful Wyoming. Chemicals, such as bleach, whitewater, the Snake delivers the goods to SUP have not been proven to be effective at recreationists of all skill levels. killing all AIS and may damage your wa“All the sections of the Snake are awesome, from tercraft and equipment. the dam to the Palisades,” said Pruzan who, along — www. wgfd.wyo.gov with several fellow kayakers and skiers, pioneered SUP river use in Jackson Hole in 2008.
Don’t Spread Aquatic Nuisance Species.
Clean, inspect, and dry your equipment before launching. If you are transporting watercraft into Wyoming from March 1 through November 30, your watercraft must be inspected before launching in any Wyoming waters. At all other times of the year, your watercraft must be inspected for aquatic invasive species (AIS) if it has been on any water known to be infested with zebra or quagga mussels within the last 30 days. If you encounter a watercraft check station on your route of travel, you stop at it and have your watercraft inspected for AIS. Details on inspection locations and hours of operation can be found at www. wgfd.wyo.gov Before and after you launch in Wyoming, make sure you follow the “Drain, Clean, and Dry” procedure. Transporting a clean and dry watercraft will allow you to quickly move through the inspection process. One tip – leave the bilge plug out until you reach the boat ramp. If on inspection your watercraft is found to be contaminated with AIS, it will be put through a decontamination procedure. An authorized inspector will thoroughly spray the exterior and flush
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tetonadventureguide.com
Wade McKoy photos
James Kaiser photo courtesy OARS
Bob Woodall
Aaron Pruzan, SUP, Snake River Canyon (top); Unknown river surfer, Snake River Canyon (left); OARS family on Jackson Lake (middle); Chris Hoeft, Slide Lake (right).
Lake â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Some SUP enthusiasts, like local skier-turned-waterman Ward Blanch, prefer paddling on lakes. â&#x20AC;&#x153;For me,â&#x20AC;? said Blanch, â&#x20AC;&#x153;itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all about long tours on Jackson Lake, going forever along the shore and out into the open water. You can cover some miles. And you get such a great full-body workout.â&#x20AC;? Not to mention startling views into the water from the elevated perspective that SUP provides. Wear polarized glasses (fitted with a head strap so as not to lose them) and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll likely pick out some fish.
WHITEWATER KAYAKING
A national treasure, the Snake River Canyon south of Jackson and Hoback Junction is ground zero for whitewater kayaking. Easy access, deep water, and rapids from Class 1 to Class 3 create a recipe for fun and thrills. Rendezvous River Sports teaches whitewater kayaking on
the Snake and Hoback rivers and Flat Creek. They offer group and private lessons ranging from a half day to four days on the water for all ability levels. Adventurous beginners will love inflatable kayaking through the Snake River Canyon.
BOAT RENTAL & LESSONS
Rendezvous River Sports rents many types of hand-powered watercraft: sea kayaks, whitewater kayaks, rafts, and stand-up paddleboards. Even a small catamaran is available from the rental fleet. RRS also offers lessons for all paddle sports and rafting. Slide Lake serves as a quiet place to learn sea kayaking. For whitewater and SUP, the Snake Riverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s calmer stretches near Hoback Junction provide a good mix of flat water, small waves, and eddies â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the perfect outdoor classroom. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Adventure Guide
*OTUSVDUJPO 5PVST 3FOUBMT 4BMFT 4FSWJDF
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M iles of singletrack on Teton Pass and in the
Cache/Game Creek area offer mountain bikers many options for cross-country and downhill rides. These world-class trails were designed and built by volunteers and employees of Bridger Teton National Forest, Friends of Pathways, and Teton Freedom Riders. Individuals from these public/private sectors manned the
Phillips Ridge (above) gives mountain bikers a deep look into the valley below. Riders: Quinn and Myles Trainer. The Cache/Game Creek network (facing page) of singletrack trails trace miles of rugged terrain shared by mountain lions, bears, and other animals. Riders: Brendon Newton, Lynsey Dyer.
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A treasure trove of singletrack trail crews and labored alongside volunteers from a wide range of organizations, including the Boy Scouts of America. The downhill-only trails on Teton Pass reflect the enthusiasm of volunteers from Teton Freedom Riders who were instrumental in their design and construction. Check out these invaluable organizations at friendsofpathways.org and tetonfreedomriders.org.
TETON PASS
Cyclists can ride from downtown Wilson up a pathway to the Old Pass Road, and then ride that paved, non-motorized route to the top of 8,416-foot Teton Pass – a climb of over 2,000 feet. Or, short of the summit but still on the Old Pass Road, turn right two switchbacks above Crater Lake and take the Phillips Canyon cutoff to access a magnificent network of high-alpine singletrack. These trails – Arrow, Sno-Tel, Phillips Ridge,
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and Phillips Canyon – rival America’s finest cross-country mountain bike rides. And for those cyclists not inclined to climb a couple thousand extra vertical, the Phillips Canyon parking area awaits two-thirds up Teton Pass on highway 22. At the top of the pass, another trailhead leads to the Black Canyon trail and Lithium downhill trail. The Black Canyon trail climbs a long ridge and then descends the mileslong canyon back to the Wilson pathway. tetonadventureguide.com
Wade McKoy
MOUNTAIN BIKING
Wade McKoy photos
Lithium is a long downhill-only route that leaves riders energized as they arrive at the bottom of Old Pass Road trailhead. Or, also from the top of Teton Pass, head west to Mail Cabin Creek or Idaho’s Mike Harris trailhead for two more long, alpine rides. Downhill specialists often drive up the pass to the Phillips Canyon trailhead to access Jimmy’s Mom, a super fun and tech-y downhill-only trail.
maintains seven miles of singletrack that traverse the lower mountain from Après Vous to the Hobacks. Rolling and winding with the ski terrain, this route was designed and built by year-round resort workers – skiers – and is a fun, short mountain-bike tour. Expert cyclists might choose to climb the rocky dirt road to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain and ride the tram back down free of charge (downhill riding is prohibited above the top of the Gondola). Pick up a map from any employee.
GRAND TARGHEE
With a base elevation of 8,000 feet, Targhee remains cool even on the hottest days. Explore 61-plus miles of multi-use trails, including a new “flow park,” ideal for perfecting downhill and cross-country bike skills. The Grand Targhee Loop is a 27-mile ride that winds through wildflower-strewn alpine meadows, forests of conifer and aspen, and high-alpine terrain. Majestic views of the Tetons and Teton Valley enhancer this outstanding local favorite, tabbed a favorite Epic Ride by the International Mountain Bicycling Association. The resort hosts a variety of downhill and cross-country races and closes out the summer with the annual Wydaho Rendezvous Mountain Bike Festival. Check out Targhee’s Bike School for lessons and tours. Pick up a map at the activity center. Continued page 61
TETON VILLAGE
Designed to accommodate experts and novices alike, the Jackson Hole Bike Park in Teton Village is all the rage. Ride up Teewinot chairlift with your bike and then cruise down one of six different trails assigned difficulty ratings similar to those of ski trails. It was designed and built by Gravity Logic, one of the world’s premier mountain-bike park developers. Tabletop jumps allow novice riders to catch air and land safely. Banked-turn sections feel like a roller coaster ride. The flow and rhythm keep bikers coming back to the chairlift for another lap. The Jackson Hole Mountain Resort also yellowstoneadventureguide.com
In Downtown Wilson
At the Base of Teton Pass Next to Pearl Street Bagels
Your Biking Headquarters
SALES • SERVICE • RENTALS
307-733-5228 wilsonbackcountry.com 2 0 1 9 G R A N D T E TO N & YE L LOWS TO N E A DV E N T U R E G U I D E
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Wade McKoy tetonadventureguide.com
GREATER SNOW KING AREA
Visitors to Jackson can ride the Greater Snow King Area directly from their hotel. Or drive to the Cache Creek trailhead, where numerous singletracks veer off in every direction. Large maps at trailhead kiosks give bikers a bird’s-eye view of numerous singletracks throughout Cache Creek, Game Creek, and Snow King Mountain. Riders can combine trails to create journeys that are short, long, or epic. Several possibilities make for day-long rides that cover dozens of miles, with big climbs and long, winding descents. New separate-use trails from the Putt-Putt trailhead on Nelson Drive improve safety and enjoyment for walkers, horse riders, and mountain bikers. The new Skyline Trail provides a scenic route through rugged alpine terrain. As it follows the ridge from upper Snow King to the CacheGame divide, the trail at times drops onto the steep north-facing side, thus leaving the south-facing slopes as quiet wildlife habitat. Plan accordingly. Free maps at friendsofpathways.org /resources, a local nonprofit advocacy group.
Wade McKoy
ETIQUETTE
Bikers must yield to all other users on forest trails. Expect to see hikers and horse riders on many of these routes. Cyclists riding downhill should yield to cyclists riding up. No trail user should be deaf. Turn down those tunes so you can still hear other people coming…and the lions, moose, and bears that, rest assured, are out there, too. Ride open trails only. Respect wilderness and national park closures and private property. Give wildlife a wide berth. While cycling on the paved pathway system, alert others (bells and an audible indicating which side—left or right—should be standard for cyclists). When approaching from behind, pass others respectfully and safely. Pedestrians have the right of way—and they too help fund the maintenance and existence of pathways! Happy trails! — Adventure Guide
Phillips Ridge rewards mountain bikers with winding singletrack, sharing the elevation with hot-air balloons. (above). Riders: Quinn and Myles Trainer. The downhill trails on Teton Pass (facing bottom). Rider: Myles Trainer.
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A mountain town success story
Wade McKoy
COMMUNITY PATHWAYS
By Mike Calabrese
Nothing idle about Jackson Hole’s
landscape—or its residents. The devotion to recreation here is obvious. The Jackson Hole Community Pathways system, coursing along 70 miles of valley floor, is solid proof of a love affair with the great outdoors. A thoughtfully constructed travel-way, it helps explain why Jackson Hole is a national leader in the effort to move people efficiently and healthfully around communities. On any given day of the year, folks in Jackson Hole are walking, cycling, running, skiing, skating, ambling—just plain moving—along
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Path 22 connects Wilson, Teton Village, and Moose-Wilson road settlements with the town of Jackson. some section of the pathways. And safely apart from the stream of motor vehicles at times clogging town, county, state, and national park roadways. Beyond the valley floor pathways—right out the backdoor in fact—lie 125 miles of maintained front-country trails in the Greater Snow King Area, Teton Pass, and Munger Mountain. Jackson Hole’s stunning trail system is part of a nationwide inventory now logging in at 200,000 miles. A sustained cooperative effort between public and private initiative helped move Jackson Hole to the forefront of alternative transportation. The journey began with a task force way back in 1991. Its efforts helped launch a pathways system that now conveys people along all parts of the valley for much of the year. Path 22, its name a nod to Wyoming Highway 22, which runs adjacent to it, recently
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connected Wilson, Teton Village, and MooseWilson road settlements with the town of Jackson. Path 22 is the newest and most visible link, but not the last. Plans to connect the pathways at the valley’s southern end to Hoback Junction could see reality within the next few years. Colorful, hard-to-miss signposts provide a graphic countywide directions system that makes it easy for visitors to navigate the many arteries. For now, though, a few useful insights are offered below.
North of Jackson To the north, the paved asphalt pathway allows users to venture from downtown Jackson, travel along the stunning landscape of the National Elk Refuge, over the Gros Ventre River, and 14 miles into Grand Teton National Park. The park’s namesake glorious peaks are visible the entire journey. Bicyclists often ride
tetonadventureguide.com
Wade McKoy (rt)
Bob Woodall (left)
The Gabriella Axelrad pathway section in Grand Teton National Park takes riders very close to the famed peaks. this section all the way to Jenny Lake and back, enjoying a healthier experience and safer thoroughfare than the nearby highway bristling with traffic. The new roundabout at the junction of the Kelly loop-road and the north highway should prove its worth this year. Cyclists will still need to navigate the intersection carefully. Most drivers haven’t been to Europe, where roundabouts outnumber stoplights and where drivers die on the road at half our rate. Nothing roundabout that.
Town of Jackson and South In town, bike pathways and signage direct cyclists along friendly on-street routes. They eventually hook up with paved and separated pathways at Jackson’s south end. From there, exclusive pathways loop south of town (also known as South Park) and back to Path 22.
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Bike Share—a moving proposition For visitors (and many locals) staying in Jackson, 55 well-tuned bikes are available at 18 strategically located hubs right in town. STARTbike, a bike-share program run by the county’s valley-wide bus transportation system—START—makes these top-quality bikes easily and economically accessible. The easyto-spot Trek bicycles boast front and rear integrated lighting, a heads up display with trip info, and 8 speeds. The front baskets and rear wheel platforms lend themselves to short trips to the grocers, downtown shops, local intown parks, and even to the county library. Eight bucks buys a one-day pass good for unlimited 30-minute trips. Additional time in quarter-hour chunks is available. The BCycle app get riders into the swing of things.
Pathways bridge over the Snake River at Hwy 22. Riders: Hadley Hammer, Monica Purrington.
Rendezvous Park: R Park At the heart of the valley’s most visible crossroads lies the 40-acre R Park. This is where the pathways’ world and the region’s largest citizen-spawned public park converge. The lush refuge holds idyllic trails, beautiful ponds, and native flora. Its landmark flag-topped knoll, accessible to every-
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Bob Woodall The stunning pathways bridge arcs over the Snake River as it enters Rendezvous Park. quired—online at rpark.org). The R Park may be the community’s most popular gathering spot. It rests nearly up against the Wilson Snake River boat launch and the stunning pathways bridge arcing over the famous waters. Leaving the camera behind would be a mistake. Views of the river rushing below and the long expanse of the Teton Range warrant framing. Bulb-outs on the bridge allow for simply taking in the sights, too. The park, in another example of cooperative spirit, offers a passel of activities from the
Creative and informative signposts help travelers find their way.
ground up, especially in summer. Visit rpark.org for pix, videos, and an events calendar.
Safety Demands Etiquette on our Pathways Now, a few words of caution, admonishments if you will. First, to the cyclists: Tour de France wannabes should keep their highspeed histrionics off the pathways. Save it for the highways. Pathways are not roadways, although the advent of motorized E-bikes is heating up the discussion about this point. High-velocity cyclists and pedestrians don’t mix well. It can be, and already has been, a lethal combination in our fair valley. E-bikes, whose weight and mass sometimes close in on 70 pounds, can pose a risk for the moms and dads and the little ones they are often introducing to the outdoors. E-bikes can zip effortlessly along at 25 mph or more. Yes, road bikes can hit 20 mph, but it ain’t effortless. Regardless, it’s not hard to imagine the results of either type slamming into a tike on a bike, an infant in a stroller, or a toddler at the hand of a parent or grandparent walking along these pathways. Disagree all you want, but pedestrians on pathways simply cannot be expected to ply the pathways with the same awareness as careening cyclists. A reminder—not a digression: Pathways’ Official Rule #2: “Pass safely—be prepared to yield and announce your presence before passing.” Most pedestrians will tell you this happens infrequently. Unfortunately, and with the growing numbers of high-velocity, highmass E-bikes plying the Pathways, “unfortunately” may be headed toward “tragically.” Cyclists moving along the pathways should signal their approach with a bell or voice and reveal their intentions to pass (not as they pass!) carefully on the left. yellowstoneadventureguide.com
Wade McKoy
one on foot, boasts a commanding view of the entire preserve. The only non-profit, privately owned public site in the county, R Park depends on donors to help cover maintenance and programming costs but is without question a prize for everyone. Among its outreach activities: Kids to Parks Day on May 18; Wyoming Game and Fish Kids Fishing Day on June 1; and the starting point for the Teton Food Tour, a pedalpowered event working up and satisfying appetites along a route from the park to Teton Village on Sunday, July 28 (preregistration re-
Photo courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort
A Couple Ways To Two-way Teton Village, hidden from view at the base of Apres Vous Mountain, is a great starting point for rides of various lengths. Okay. This communication process is a loop of sorts. Walkers, joggers, amblers, and rollerbladers (and other cyclists) should acknowledge the approaching cyclist’s signal with a raised hand or a head nod. Note to the ear-budded crowd, adrift in your own sonic worlds: Don’t make unwitting drifting targets of yourselves. Deaf to the audible signals of others approaching from behind, this cohort often leaves cyclists wondering if the other pathway user will wander or stagger into them and wreck everyone’s day. And finally, Fido. Some sections of the pathways do not allow dogs, leashed or otherwise. Respect that and come to grips with the concept of “under control.” And bag the dookies and drop them into the repositories at trail-section beginnings. Don’t leave this responsibility to someone else. PAWS, the local pet advocacy and wellness support organization, supplies over 150,000 mutt-mitts at 60 stations throughout the valley. No one, not even a pet owner, enjoys sliding around on dog-greased pathways or sidewalks.
A glance at clogged valley roadways in summer sends some locals to the backyard for a deep-breathing exercise—or a primal scream. Worse, though, the need to leave one’s sanctuary and contend with an armada of motor vehicles merely to run an errand or head to Jackson or Teton Village threatens both blood pressure and sanity. Summer visitors quickly realize that they face the same quotidian delights. Locals by the droves often simply hop on their bikes and contentedly pedal off to coffee, work, a meal, shopping, or just coursing along the valley pathways system. And tourists settled in at Teton Village or town, even if they haven’t hauled their own bikes along, can easily do the same thing by renting from a stable of options at Teton Village Sports (TVS) or Hoback Sports in Jackson. Best of all, their bike rentals include a free one-way START bus ticket. So visiting
folks and families looking for a bike outing won’t need a training regimen just to take a spin out and back along the handy pathways linking Jackson and Teton Village. Rent the bike, traverse the 12 miles of gorgeously revealing pathway between Teton Village and Jackson, and turn it in. Then knock out the shopping, a meal, or a cocktail, or whatever activity offered at that end, and hop on the bus for the return. The shops rent (and sell) them all: road bikes, pathway cruisers, full-suspension mountain bikes, fat-tire cycles, kids bikes and even kid carriers that affix to the grownup’s seat post to turn the trip into a family team effort. And if the altitude is a bit too taxing at first, E-bikes can help ease those needing a bit of powered assistance. Definitely a two-way love affair! — Mike Calabrese
Maps For stellar maps and a complete rundown of the Jackson Hole Community Pathways system and its amenities, visit friendsofpathways.org. Mike Calabrese, a musician, writer, and editor in this valley so sweet, can be found enjoying our pathways all year long. 2 02 10 9 1G T ETTEOTN & & Y EYLELLOL W S TSO NE VE TU RR E EGG UU ID EE 9 RGARNADN D ON OW TO N EA D AD VN EN TU ID
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FLY FISHING On a Grand Scale
O
By Scott Smith
ur magical valley, renowned in the fly-fishing world, teems with wildlife. More to the point, though, its waters, home to the wily and native fine-spotted cutthroat trout, provide angling adventures around nearly every bend.
Rowing a dory on the Snake River, (left) is but one of the many joys of fly fishing. The fly of choice for this moment (above). Playing a Snake River cutthroat (facing page) — yet another great joy of fly fishing. Pictured: Josh Gallivan, Grand Teton Fly Fishing guide. Nearby soaring mountains – the Tetons, Snakes, Gros Ventres, and Absarokas – capture copious amounts of pristine water (in the form of snow) throughout winter. Consequently, the centerpiece watershed, the Snake River, offers a truly unique angling experience. One would imagine that the whole point of fly fishing is to catch fish. But on many occasions the journey yields as much as the catch. The modern angler has become a robust blend of adventurer, conservationist, geographer, naturalist, and artist. In Jackson Hole, we embrace the fly-fishing culture and welcome all the demands that attend it. On an average summer morning you might witness several dozen guides prepping their drift boats for the day. Likely, a dozen or more have pushed off before dawn. These guides take their craft seriously, investing huge amounts of time and money to help unlock and share the area’s best angling secrets. With a guide’s knowledge and expertise, clients can be casting the right fly into the right zone while staying safe in our wild aquatic landscape. Adventure awaits those who are game. A few accounts of some of my most memorable days on the water in recent years, selected for their seasonal variety, are illustrative.
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tetonadventureguide.com
Wade McKoy photos
March 19, 2010
The skiing had been good all season, and it still was. But spring afternoons – for me – are meant to be spent on the water. I received a call from some folks who wanted to try their luck on the river, and fortunately my boat had just melted out of the snow. Most years we get a nice window of early season fishing and, with favorable weather, it’s hard to beat those first floats. We were underway by 10 a.m. with a cooler-than-expected start. Twenty-eight degrees and sunny is not bad, as long as there’s no wind. The day was calm, the stillness breathtaking. The river banks were piled with snow, a reminder that summer was still in the distant future. After an hour of tuning up our casts and getting an eye for the water, we saw our first sign of aquatic life: midges! These true flies are small but often show in good numbers, creating a
Wade McKoy yellowstoneadventureguide.com
Grand Teton Fly Fishing owner/guide Scott Smith works a cutty on the riffles of the Snake.
August 6, 2011
Too much water can crush a guide’s spirit—and his back—and this had been one of those years. Fishing on the Snake had been slow due to cold, high, and turbid flows (2011 was a record snow year) but we were finally getting a reprieve with some hot weather. The guides all felt like the river was about to pop. My clients were a local couple who savored floating beneath the Tetons, enjoying a nice lunch, and casting a few bugs to the banks. To avoid this morning’s rainstorm, we put on at 11 a.m. – quite late in August – but we were behind the other boats and thought the afternoon might produce – or not. The smells along the river in summer are incredible. Most noticeably after a rain, the river rock steeps the air with a fragrant blend of earth and conifers. Mix in a few songs from the Swainson’s thrush and you can feel the fish are going to cooperate. This day we were elated with aggressive grabs from deep-bodied
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finespots lurking under heavy current and wood. The cutties appeared to be weathering the high flows well, likely gorging on a good supply of stonefly nymphs, sculpins, and minnows. An evening beer was going to taste extra special today.
September 20, 2014
Often considered the homestretch of a long guiding season, the weeks after Jackson Hole’s storied One Fly Competition are some of my personal favorites for sneaking in a couple days off to rest and recharge. On this day I found myself with a longtime client who has since become a great friend. We had some nice fishing throughout the week, but we were still looking for that one particular fish. The calm, cloudy afternoon showed mahogany duns and hecuba drakes on the water in decent numbers. The Snake is not known for heavy hatches, but it can surprise you from time to time. September is a good month to witness this phenomenon. Along a slow run lined with gorgeous overhanging grass, we spotted a giant cutthroat feeding. The trout was being quite particular, often refusing naturals right over its head. As the fish rose, it barely broke the surface, sipping with complete efficiency (a game of calorie economics?). We studied the drift, made some passes, changed flies, downsized everything – and alas, a chunk of a cutthroat ate a #20 rusty spinner, wet! This fish was not happy about us interrupting its feeding and fought us well into the next run. The evening light broke through and we were standing there with this magnificent animal in our net, thinking, “How incredible!” After watching the trout swim away – always a gratifying moment – we high-fived and rowed off, knowing we couldn’t top that.
November 18, 2015
The season was a wrap and I had reached out to several guide friends for a fishing partner. I just had that itch, and the 25-degree temps and
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tetonadventureguide.com
Wade McKoy photos
significant feeding opportunity for our finned friends. Like clockwork, the bugs increased as we neared noon, but still no action from the trout. I calmed my anxious clients and suggested we knock out lunch, knowing something was surely to happen soon. As we pulled into a riffle on an inside turn, I noticed a couple figures up shallow. I did a double take, thinking it was a rock with waves lapping over, but to our delight it was several good-size trout positioning to feed. It’s hard to describe the feeling of seeing a trout sipping small insects in shallow water – it’s what fly fishing is truly meant to be. We botched a few attempts on that lunch riffle but did manage some to hand. What started off as a slow day ended up being an afternoon filled with non-stop action. The air temperature warmed to a pleasant 45 degrees, the water barely kissing 41 degrees. Spring fishing on the Snake River is typically very good and this day was no different. We landed a couple dozen 13-18”cutthroats on dry flies, but more importantly we shared the river with no one other than a few eagles, a moose, and a couple beavers.
Scott Smith (left) prepares to release another cutthroat. Josh Gallivan (above) watches for subtle signs of fish on the hunt. guides every four to six casts. The river was peaceful, though, and I worked my way into the tailout of the run where big browns tend to hold in the fall. Methodically swinging and stripping streamers has a mundane tempo that can put you in a trance, and soon I found myself thinking of dry flies and 80-degree weather. Suddenly, my line stopped but then went limp. That was either the bottom or a good swipe on the fly. I gathered myself and let the water rest for a minute or two. Then, with an up-and-across lob, I sent the fly deep. When the line tightened, a monster brown rocketed from the water, leaping like an Atlantic salmon. After an epic battle, the trout came to hand in the shallows. The stunning colors always mesmerize most of us, but to think about what it took to capture that creature with a hand-tied fly was even more remarkable.
high winds forecasted made me think this would be the last day until spring to wet a line. I had a short section in mind to work and, as it turned out, I was alone on this day. This particular area is known to hold brown trout and a few are quite large. It’s hard to stay focused, much less excited, when fighting ice in your
Experiences like these are what guides seek—for clients and themselves. It’s a connection to nature that feeds our souls. It’s a form of hunting that combines science, art, and luck. Wrapping all these elements into a day beneath the Tetons makes for a journey on a grand scale. Scott Smith, a fly fishing guide and managing owner of Grand Teton Fly Fishing, is stoked to live in Jackson Hole with his wife and two daughters. See his blog and website at grandtetonflyfishing.com.
&YQFSJFODFE HVJEF TUBò t #FTU BDDFTT JO +BDLTPO )PMF 8FTUFSO 8ZPNJOH t $POWFOJFOU øZ TIPQ XJUI QBSLJOH t 0QFO EBJMZ BN UP QN GRANDTETONFLYFISHING.COM 225 W BROADWAY, JACKSON, WY 307. 690. 0910 yellowstoneadventureguide.com
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FLY FISHING MECCA Of the Lower 48 “This is the fly-fishing Mecca of
Dustin Varga
Bob Woodall
Wade McKoy
the lower forty-eight,” said Baker Salsbury. He should know. Salsbury owns West Bank Anglers, an enterprise perched not far from the Snake River’s celebrated waters and definitely in the heart of mountain country fly fishing.
Fish on! (top). The arsenal of flies (above). In the Mecca (right).
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“We have so many opportunities around here,” he said, noting the ease for locals and visitors alike to get “out and enjoy nature, get away from people and traffic and get on the river to spend a day with friends in peacefulness.” Local experienced anglers don’t need coaxing. Novices might. And, he continued, “the Snake River
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is just a great spot for all ability levels, beginners to advanced. There is no need for anybody to be intimidated or scared off or think they are not qualified.” Beginning anglers needn’t be overwhelmed by the “secrets” to fly fishing. “Lots of people think it is so hard,” he admitted. “You got to have all this equipment and it costs so much money. That’s not the case at all. tetonadventureguide.com
Baker Salsbury You can get into the sport relatively easy, it just takes time and public-access waters. The best way to get started is to hire a guide or an instructor to point you in the right direction.” Salsbury’s guides “can take a beginner who has never held a rod and have them catching fish at the end of the day. And they just don’t want to stop.” yellowstoneadventureguide.com
Naturally, Westbank offers plenty for the skilled cohort, too. “We can take a seasoned world-traveling angler and put them on the big native cutthroat trout and they can have the challenge of their life.” Salsbury’s fond memories of fishing with his father and grandfather help shape his approach to coaching newcomers, especially families. “We set ‘em up and
Fishing from a drift boat allows anglers easy access to countless miles of the river.
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Seeing that all come together was really rewarding and seeing the smiles on their face and seeing their success. I got them doing something that they had never done before and something that they had always wanted to do. We introduced them to the sport and got them catching fish.”
TIPS FROM BAKER How do you choose a fly? A great thing about the Snake River and our fisheries is that the cutthroats are very opportunistic feeders—they are looking for anything that looks like a meal. And they love to rise to the surface and eat dry flies. If you get a good fly that floats, and put it in a good spot on the river where a fish is likely to be holding and feeding—looking for food— and you get a good drift, then a lot of times the fish will come and look at it and maybe eat it. Know the fish’s habits, know their preference and diets and what they are looking for. Being able to mimic the bugs that are actually out at the time of the fishing trip. Whether aquatic or terrestrial insects, you’ve got to determine which fly and what bugs they are eating that day. It’s a challenge tricking the fish into eating something manmade that imitates their natural food. It doesn’t have to be a hatch.
How long to learn to cast? We can get you casting in a couple hours. Lessons start with basics, but to perfect it can take a lifetime.
Best time to be out? June, July, and August are very popular months. September and October can be a lot of fun. It is a little cooler, the bugs change a little bit; fish know winter is coming on and it’s
time to fatten up. Less traffic on the river.
Forecast for summer? It looks like we will have a pretty normal year. It seems that we will have an average start, and be fishing the rivers south of Jackson in June. Hopefully the Snake will shape up in the first couple weeks of July. The lakes will start fishing by Memorial Day weekend. Just depends on when the ice comes off.
What kinds of mistakes do less experienced anglers make? One of the biggest is a casting mistake. You don’t have to cast 60-70 feet when you are trout fishing. People tend to get too much line out—slack and fly casting don’t work well together. You don’t want any slack.
How critical are barbless hooks? Very important, mainly so you can get the hook out when you hook yourself. De-barbed hooks help take care of the trout. It’s easier to take a hook out of the mouth with barbless hooks. And you are handling the fish out of the water less. Ideally, you are using a good rubber net, so you can keep the fish in the water and just pop the fly out really quick. With barbs, you tend to rip the flesh and it often takes longer to remove the fly.
How important is catch and release? Catch and release is at the heart of fly fishing. There are some situations where science says you want to keep some fish. But here on the Snake River we have a native fishery, which is very special. There aren’t very many in the lower 48 states. We are fishing for our native Snake River fine spotted cutthroat trout. Catch and release of our cutthroat is very important—once you kill one of these fish, they are gone and are not in the system anymore. So we don’t have an opportunity to catch them again. If you catch a fish, handle
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Wade McKoy
we take ‘em out,” he said. “I remember when I was guiding and taking beginners that had never held a fly rod before. I got them casting in the first hour. Then I got them placing the fly where it needed to go and setting the hook.
Bob Woodall
A cutty takes the fly and runs hard (above). Schroder Baker prepares to land a wily cutthroat (below).
Baker Salsbury
An overnight trip on the South Fork Canyon of the Snake River includes a 26-mile float, with the majority of the river accessible only by boat. it properly and use a de-barbed hook. Get the fly out of the fish and get it back in the water quickly; then its chance of survival is pretty great. That way that fish can feed again, and someone else can catch it. Better yet, come spring it can spawn and keep our fishery healthy. We have so many fishermen here that if everybody kept one fish, we wouldn’t have any fish in the river. They would be gone because there is no stocking, it’s all just natural reproduction native fishery. A lot of guides like to say the fish are our co-workers.
What about taking photos of your catch? When touching a fish you must always have your hands wet. It is really important to
be expedient about handling, do not squeeze it too hard. Just cradle the fish and it will relax. Have it near the water and raise it out of the water quickly for a second or two when you are ready to take the photo. Grip and grin and put it back in the water.
Streamside etiquette for anglers? Just be respectful of your fellow anglers. Don’t be crowding. Everybody is out to have a peaceful time, so give others room. If you are floating the river and you see wade anglers give them as much room as you possibly can. If you are wade fishing and come upon others, then give them ample room so you don’t even see them. Keep your comments to yourself—don’t be yelling at people.
Westbank trips An overnight two-day trip on the South Fork Canyon of the Snake River is a tremendous trip if you really want to be immersed in the sport for two days. It’s a 26-mile float, with the majority of the river accessible only by boat. The camp in the middle of the wilderness is 12-miles from put-in and it too is accessible only by boat. Cliff walls tower 400-800 feet high along the canyon that harbors one of the largest contiguous cottonwood forests in the northern Rocky Mountains. The South Fork is also home to songbirds, bald eagles, osprey and, of course, rainbows, browns, and cutthroats. — Adventure Guide
The Complete Resource For All of Your Fly Fishing Needs in Jackson Hole • Full-Service Fly Shop • Guided Fly Fishing • Overnight Adventure on the South Fork of the Snake Call for a detailed guide brochure 800.922.3474 307-733-6483 Across from the Aspens on the Teton Village Road
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CLIMBING Celebrating over 50 years connecting people with adventure in the natural world
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F
Photography by John Waller
or over a half-century, Jackson Hole Mountain Guides has been quenching the publicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s thirst for the great outdoors. The enterprise specializes in rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, hiking, canyoneering, and backcountry skiing and has been offering classes and trips throughout the western U.S. since
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1968. Accredited by the American Mountain Guides Association and a National Park Service concessionaire, JHMG annually undergoes detailed review and always rises to the top. Owned, operated, and staffed by professionals who live and breathe the mountain life, JHMG carries on the tradition of the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s founders: safely seeking adventure in the great outdoors at every opportunity. It remains a premier guide service by hiring the best people.
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At fifty one years old, JHMG is the second-oldest guide service in America. Long a smooth-running operation, the company’s guides and clients are free to focus on the details of the mountain environment and the tasks at hand. That’s the essence of mountaineering. “The initial lure of climbing—and still the bottom line for many of us—is it allows us to be in a lot of places that a lot of people don’t get to be,” said Rob Hess, JHMG’s co-owner and chief guide. Mountain landscapes create an undeniable lure: water rushing down snowmelt creeks, winds whispering through oldgrowth fir, cliffs towering over redolent meadows, falcons and ravens command-
ing the high currents. In the Tetons, nature’s magnificence is compelling and commanding. But the modern world’s love affair with electronic devices tends to insulate folks against the world of nature. Smart phones, for example, are no longer a luxury but a necessity (although guides must carry them). Some outdoors professionals are concerned that for several generations now, kids haven’t spent much time outside, beyond those phones, computers, or televisions. “It’s come full circle for me,” said JHMG guide John “JD” Douglas. “Climbing is our touchstone – we’re guides and we’re a climbing school – but we’re also
a group of people who just like to be outside with other people. Through climbing we want to set our clients on a course of adventure in the outdoors. If they go outside and into the backcountry enough, they’ll care about the environment for the rest of their lives.” The power of nature, the thrill of adventure are forces that defy imitation. They can spark a sense of wonder, inspiration, and joy that no virtual world can deliver. A small sampling of testimonials from JHMG clients provides ample evidence. It seems clear that Jackson Hole Mountain Guides is succeeding in its quest. Continued page 77
Hiking past old-growth evergreens (facing page), climbers take their time on the approach to the summits. The Enclosure on a western spur of the Grand Teton was likely built by Native Americans. Its age is not known.
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Jackson Hole Mountain Guides
Single-Day Programs Stand on the Summit While the Grand Teton may be the crown jewel of the Teton Range, there are plenty of options for those who aren’t mountaineers or don't have time to summit such a big peak. A range of moderate-to-difficult mountain summits can be reached in a long day. The lengthy approaches also make these climbs attractive overnight adventures. These climbs will get you high into the rarified alpine zone and out of the park’s heavy foot-traffic. Climbing one of these non-technical peaks is one of the most intimate ways to experience Grand Teton National Park. The day starts early to summit Surprise Pinnacle, Disappointment Peak, or Teewinot. Technical Rock Climbing Professional guides take individuals and families on a fun-filled day with breathtaking views. Aesthetic climbing challenges include the guides’ favorites: Symmetry Spire, Disappointment Peak, Ice Point, Irene’s Arete, The Snaz, Guide’s Wall and more. These climbs represent a variety of difficulties and experiences, and are all classics.
John Waller
Climbing School Learn to climb from the pros and make your day on the rocks informative, exciting, and enjoyable. Courses for all ages range from beginner to advanced and include special programs for corporate groups or private clubs. Classes are taught in one of three scenic locations in Grand Teton National Park or the Bridger-Teton National Forest.
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John Waller On the summit, climbers rejoice, rest, and prepare to descend.
Testimonials Although I have plenty of hiking and sport-climbing experience, I had never done any real mountaineering and I was nervous about climbing the Grand. All of my fears and doubts dissolved as we made our way up the mountain. Noah was a complete and total pro â&#x20AC;&#x201D; leading the route with confidence and expertly managing ropes and gear. Transitions were seamless. I felt totally safe and was able to fully enjoy an epic summit day and drink in the incredible views from the top. High camp was also a great place to stay for a couple of nights. Climbing the Grand with JHMG was a truly awesome experience that I will definitely recommend to friends. We canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wait for our next trip with you guys! â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Emily My son and I did this memorable experience together and to have conquered this challenge together was priceless. Everyone should challenge themselves to fulfill their dreams and go for it. The result will be life changing. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Keith
My grandchildren loved their climbing day with Jed. He showed them some basic mountaineering techniques as well as the rock-climbing basics. They learned what they needed to and enjoyed the process. They are both keen to return next year to do the Grand Teton. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Lockhart Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been a climbing-gym rat with little outdoor experience, and now I look forward to getting outdoors again. Matt was a fantastic guide. He kept great pace, had a great sense of humor, and taught me some very valuable things on my first alpine climb. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Alexander I love the Tetons and love hiking, but donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have much mountaineering experience. We had an amazing and successful two-day trip up the Middle Teton. Our guide Chris Brown was skilled and knowledgeable, which allowed me to feel safe and enjoy the adventure! Camping overnight was great, as we were able to enjoy the peaceful, quiet evening and the beautiful stars at night! We are already dreaming about planning our next trip! â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Carol
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T
he summits of lofty mountain peaks have always enticed climbers. And although scaling rocky crags is rife with dangers that have claimed many an adventurer, it hasn’t deterred mountaineers. It has, though, spurred the creation of safer paths to the peaks.
Photos courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort
VIA FERRATA
Rock climbing for everyone
In the 1800s, alpinists began employing a range of climbing aids to assist themselves between peaks—notably, iron pins, hand hooks, carved footholds, and ropes. When the First World War erupted, one of the battle lines lay in the Italian Alps. To help troops move more efficiently about at high altitude and under difficult conditions, permanent lines were sometimes fixed to rock faces so soldiers could ascend them. These routes were dubbed “via ferrata,” an Italian phrase that means “iron way (also route, path, street, and road).” After the war, many more of these “iron roads” were developed as a way to encourage tourism and increase the range of activities available to visitors at mountain resorts. Although most are in the European Alps, North America now claims a few via ferrata routes. In 2017 the Tetons and Jackson Hole Mountain Resort became home to the first U.S. Forest Service-approved via ferrata. Located at the top of the Bridger Gondola in the rocky crags of Casper Bowl, the JHMR Via Ferrata is suitable for all levels of climbers, from beginners to those who already have some alpine experience. An assisted climbing activity, guests travel routes high above the valley floor, across suspended bridges, and along granite walls—always accompanied by an experienced guide. Using a series of steel steps, handles, ladder rungs, and steel cables where the trail steepens, climbers ascend the cliffs along the via ferrata. Participants are secured to the rock by wearing a harness and lanyard that remains attached to the steel cable adjacent to the climbing route. The via ferrata is designed to reduce the probability of falling and to minimize the impacts of a fall. Three different loops, varying in difficulty from an introductory climb to more advanced, comprise the JHMR’s via ferrata. Among the loops are eight routes, including two newly installed for this summer. The four longest routes ascend 500 vertical feet up the rock face. One route includes the crossing of a spectacular 120-foot long suspension bridge. The resort’s via ferrata is suitable for families, groups, or individuals. Customers can choose from a variety of different Alpine climbing experiences. The practice routes require two to three hours, but more experienced or adventurous folks can dig in a bit deeper with the half-day option or spend a whole day exploring all the routes. — Adventure Guide tetonadventureguide.com
In the 1800s, alpinists began using iron pins, hand hooks, carved footholds, and ropes to create permanent routes between peaks. These routes were dubbed “via ferrata,” an Italian phrase that means “iron way (also route, path, street, and road).” The four longest routes ascend 500 vertical feet up the rock face. One route includes the crossing of a spectacular 120-foot long suspension bridge.
Photos courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort
Wade McKoy
Participants are secured to the rock by wearing a harness and lanyard that remains attached to the steel cable adjacent to the climbing route.
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Learn a pioneer skill from the pros
Jeffrey Kaphan Photography: Courtesy Jackson Hole Shooting Experience
SHOOTING
I
With some practice, shooters will be happily hitting the bullseye.
By Joseph Piccoli
f you don’t know anything about guns, or if you‘re an avid shooting enthusiast, you should consider spending some time with the experts at Jackson Hole Shooting Experience during your vacation this year.
coaches also don’t consider the shotguns, rifles, and pistols guests use to be “weapons.” That might sound like spin, but Humphries
knows weapons—he spent over 10 years in law enforcement, including time as a SWAT sniper team leader.
“Many of our arriving shooters say they are ‘anti-gun,’ and most touch a firearm for the very first time with us,” Lynn Sherwood, coowner of Jackson Hole Shooting Experience, said. “Because they’re with a corporate group, or are a family visiting the ‘Wild West,’ they decide to try it anyway—and three hours later they are plastering their pictures with purple guns all over Facebook.” One reason for this, said co-owner Shepard Humphries, is that the JH Shooting Experience’s expert coaches regard customers not as customers but as personal guests. The
“We customize each experience based on each shooter’s level of experience, the number of shooters in the party, and their goals and desires. Every experience is different.” A one-day, long-range precision shooting option is available this summer.
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Instead, Humphries views the guns his guests use as the equivalent of skis, golf clubs, or fishing poles. They are, he said, the tackle of “Luxury Entertainment Shooting.” And the Jackson Hole Shooting Experience has a very large tackle box. “We have over 80 different types of guns and our selection is always growing,” Humphries said. The enterprise’s selection includes cowboy-action revolvers, semi-auto pistols, longrange rifles, WWI battle rifles, modern sporting carbines such as the AR-15, and even a selection of .50 caliber rifles and handguns. JH Shooting Experience’s most popular offering, the customizable Multi-Gun Rifle & Pistol Experience, introduces guests to many of these items in a safe, educational three-hour session billed as a “taste test.” Safety is always paramount. Guests don eye and ear protection, participate in a safety briefing and learn or review the fundamentals of shooting before enjoying hands-on instruction with their private coach. “We customize every experience based on each shooter’s level of experience, the number of shooters in the party, and their goals and desires,” Sherwood explained. “Every experience is different and when you come back next year, you’ll grow your skills even more as well as getting to peek at new guns we’ll have at your ready.” The JH Shooting Experience’s goal is to help its guests “connect with each other,” she explained. The outfit trains its guides in human psychology with a “neurolinguistic twist,” where coaches continuously observe and respond to each group member’s human needs. As a result, all members of the group have what many describe as “the most fun of any vacation activity they have ever done!” Novices start by shooting a variety of .22caliber rifles and handguns, which have little recoil, are easy on the body, and are thus a good introduction to shooting. Guests then move on to larger-caliber guns, including semi-auto pistols, and an assortment of historic and modern rifles. These can vary widely, from a classic Marlin Lever-Action .357, a gun that a Jackson Hole cowhand of old might have carried, to the infamous AK-47—probably the most recognizable gun on the planet— and several rifles capable of hitting targets 600 yards away! Another option, the Shotgun Clays Experience, introduces shooters to the thrill of shotgun sports. Those who have already experienced a firearms activity with JH Shooting Experience can hone their defensive pistol and carbine skills on a dynamic two-day “Next-Level” course. Other guests might be enticed by what Humphries calls “Bespoke Adventures,” which promise two to four days shooting rifles, shotguns, pistols, or bows. The outfit’s “Journey-to-a-Mile” option will answer the question: “What’s the sound of a metal target being plinked at 1,760 yards?” A new program this summer, the private One-day Long-range Precision Shooting option, unfolds at a nearby private ranch. “We shoot out to 1,800 yards in this training at targets as small as one MOA (minute of angle),” Humphries said. Some folks actually hit the target a mile out. He added, “You will leave yellowstoneadventureguide.com
with improved knowledge and skills. You will be challenged and will likely accomplish much more than you expected.”
"Many families and groups are looking for unique outdoor activities in Jackson Hole. We offer a safe, fun and educational multi-gun shooting experience that will strengthen connections and build memories, making your vacation a huge success."
The Jackson Hole Shooting Experience has created a very different firearms experience, one that does not, unlike inexpensive indoor ranges, rent guns or sell a reckless three-minute machine gun activity. Its philosophy seems to be working. The TripAdvisor travel website reveals a 99.7% “5-Star Excellent” rating, the highest of any activity, hotel, restaurant or other Trip Advisor service in Wyoming or any surrounding state. Reservations are required for all family and corporate group JH Shooting Experience adventures, and sometimes next-day or even same day experiences are available. For more information, visit Shootinjh.com or call 307690-7921. Joseph Piccoli is a writer and editor living in Jackson Hole.
LUXURY ENTERTAINMENT SHOOTING EXPERIENCES
It's about Connections...
Families • Wedding Parties • Corporate Events SHOOTINJH.COM 307-690-7921
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HORSEBACK RIDING Western family fun W
By Bob Woodall
elcome to The West, pardner! Not just a direction, mind you, The West is a place steeped in history and cowboy lore. Images of it might flow into your mind like a flash flood in a Western movie. Wagon trains stretched across the high plains, John Wayne hunting down the bad guys, and the cowboy astride his horse riding off into the sunset. So why not connect with the richness of the past by throwing your leg over the back of a trusty steed and heading for the hills? “You can look around at the 360-degree view, enjoy the smell of the sage, the sounds of the forest, listen to streams, and drink in the landscape—and physical limitations can be overcome,” the late Cameron Garnick, of the Triangle C Ranch, once pointed out. “Traveling at four-five miles an hour, horses can cover lots of territory and you can see much more because you are not having to watch the trail.” In no time at all, riders can be deep into the mountains and “you’re doing it the way it was done by Indians, mountain men, and cowboys,” Garnick pointed out.
TRAIL RIDES
Even if loping off into the sunset was not on your agenda, finding a horse to ride couldn’t be easier. No matter where you travel in the West, trail rides are available. They range from one-hour to full-day and multi-day rides. “It is a great Western experience and good family fun,” said Laura Child of the A-OK Corral and Willow Creek Horseback Rides. Jackson Hole is known for its cowboy and mountain man heritage and “that is the way they saw it, so by going on a horseback ride you can step back in time and see it like they would have,” she said. Never been on a horse? Not a problem. The two outfitters accommodate both beginners and seasoned riders from ages six and up. “Most of our riders have never been on a horse. It’s fun to take inexperienced people and see the big smiles on their faces and the satisfaction when they learn to ride,” Child said. “The thrill of just being on the back of a horse,” she added, “is part of the great Western experience, seeing the country like the mountain men did.” Next, decide how much time you have to spend in the saddle. Like most outfitters, the A-OK Corral and Willow Creek offer a variety of options, ranging from one-hour to all-day rides. Their most popular is a two-hour option that takes patrons up to get great views of the
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Trail rides afford easy access to remote mountain vistas and crystal clear mountain streams. valley and mountains. Another of the rides from A-OK Corral leads clients on a one-hour mosey along the banks of the Snake River. “That trail is flat and easy-going, perfect for the beginner,” she said. While outings from the A-OK are more lowkey, Willow Creek rides can be more adventurous. “We have unique trail rides for groups up to eight and are able to customize rides and pack trips to fit your desires,” Child said. All of this outfit’s rides make a full loop and don't take the same trail out and back. Riders, then, are constantly taking in new scenery and views of the forest and wilderness, with some of the trails climbing to over 8,000 feet and affording breathtaking views of the Grand Teton
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Mountain Range in the distance. The mountain trails wind through Douglas firs, lodge pole pine, blue sagebrush, and Alpine wildflowers. “Along the way you may see Rocky Mountain Elk, mule deer, Shiras Moose, red tailed hawks, and American Bald Eagles,” she said.
OVERNIGHT PACK TRIPS
Willow Creek also features extended trips, as well as fishing trips in the Gros Ventre and Snake River ranges. For the ultimate trail ride, sign on for an overnight or multi-day pack experience. “It is a really neat trip,” said Child. “You get the real experience of getting in the backcountry; it takes you back in where the only tetonadventureguide.com
way to get there is either horseback or on foot. It gets you away from it all, away from cellphones, away from all of that.” After a three-hour ride to camp, guests can settle into their wall tents or wander in a
“You get the real experience of the backcountry. It gets you away from it all, away from cellphones, away from all of that.” meadow or forest and experience the quiet of the wilderness on foot or by trail ride. Anglers can grab a rod and hit the stream. Willow Creek's headwaters begin in the Wyoming Range at the south end of Jackson
Under a star-filled sky, the glow and warmth of a crackling campfire help create life-long memories. 8 88 88 8 88 8 West, so take advantage of it! Whether it’s for Extended trips can even accommodate two hours or a whole week. families and travelers who on short notice deSaddle up – and happy trails to you! cide to indulge in the adventure. Those trips usually are available in July and August, after mountain snow has retreated and the hills explode with wildflowers.
DRESS THE PART
Young buckaroos delight being astride a steed. Hole. With 16 miles of pristine water, this beautiful mountain stream boasts excellent habitat for the feisty cutthroat trout. Willow Creek practices catch-and-release fishing trips to help maintain the healthy trout population. After a good ol' Western home-cooked dinner, guests can cozy up to the warm glow of an open campfire for S’mores under a starfilled canopy. Breakfast is served along with real cowboy coffee.
Now that you’re going to hit the trail, dress the part. You don’t need to go out and dude yourself up in full cowboy regalia, but a few items will make the ride more enjoyable. Cowboy boots are best, although any closedtoed shoes are fine. Sandals are not recommended. Long pants and a hat are advisable, and because the weather can change rapidly here in the real West, bring a raincoat. Also on the short list are insect repellant, sunscreen, sunglasses, water bottle, camera, and binoculars. You’re smack dab in the middle of The
Hourly Mountain Trail Rides in the Bridger-Teton National Forest With Beautiful Teton Views Only horseback ride in Jackson Hole that is 100% on Bridger-Teton National Forest
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9500 S. Bryans Flat Rd., Jackson, Wyoming www.fishjacksonwyo.com
www.horsecreekranch.com aok@wyoming.com
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Permitted by BTNF Equal Opportunity Service Provider
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307-733-6556
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JACKSON HOLE RODEO Where the West is still Wild
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n 1890, Sylvester Wilson brought the first group of settlers over Teton Pass to raise cattle in what is now Jackson Hole. One hundred thirty years and six generations later, the Wilson family continues maintaining and preserving Western heritage. And rodeo has been a part of Jackson Hole’s cowboy culture since those first settlers arrived over 100 years ago. These days, the Wilson family operates the Jackson Hole Rodeo and carries on the tradition. For the Wilsons, making rodeo enjoyable runs in the family.
“We try to appeal to families, both those competing and those coming to watch,” said Brandon Wilson, co-owner of the Jackson Hole Rodeo. “We want to make it fun for everybody.” “We can’t be the biggest, with the most prize money, so we really try to be the most fun. We really work hard to make it fun for the competitors, and that makes it a great fun experience for the folks watching it too.” This summer, JH Rodeo will again pack the town arena with action three nights a week for most of the summer. As with rodeos in general, the evening’s events include saddle and bareback bronc riding, barrel racing, calf roping, breakaway and team roping, and the high-action
Steer wrestling requires a cowboy to launch himself from his mount while at full gallop in an attempt to pull the critter to the ground.
Bob Woodall photos
The “Behind the Chute Experience” brings rodeo fans right next to the action as cowboys rig up their mounts and prepare for their ride.
High-flying broncs buck hard attempting to rid themselves of their rider as quickly as they can. Cowboys strive to hang on for the 8-second buzzer.
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The crowd-pleasing Kid’s Calf scramble is an amusing free-for-all. A soft sheep has now replaced the calf in the entertaining event.
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only 20 people a night, this very popular option activity fills up fast. “It works really well for us,” he said. “It is really good for the general public who doesn’t understand rodeo. Our goal for the Behind the Chutes program is to explain everything that people never get the chance to hear, and to dispel any misconception they have.” Wilson continued, “We kind of give visitors a Rodeo-101.” Participants show up an hour before the rodeo to meet and greet the cowboys and cowgirls. They get to go over and see the equipment and rigging used, and then enter the back pens with the stock. “They can see that a horse is just a horse,” said Wilson, “not just a bucking horse. It lets them feel like they can understand it more – they are part of it – because they’re back there with the cowboys. We tell them why the cowboys do what they do and where it developed from.” While at the pens, A bull rider explodes from the chute hoping to hang on till the buzzer. they can take pictures with the bulls. “We favorite—bull riding. have some gentle bulls and some that people Another crowd-pleasing event, the “kids’ can set on and get their picture taken. They calf scramble,” is something of a free-for-all as think that is the real deal for them—and it is a mob of youngsters flood the arena to chase something they won’t do for rest of life,” Wilafter sheep, trying to nab the ribbon from the son said. When the rodeo starts, the VIP tail of a fleeing woolly mammal. “We use a guests can go above and look down on the sheep ‘cause it is a little easier on the kids,” action busting out or stay with cowboys besaid Wilson. hind the chutes. “We have someone stay with “With our philosophy and motto, ‘Grow- them at all times,” he noted. ing Rodeo a Buck at a Time,’ we are geared “The thing that we really try to represent is toward growing the sport by giving partici- that we are a family-oriented type of rodeo and pants the opportunity they haven’t had, so strive to provide an experience that adds to they can learn how to ride. It allows guys to what they are doing here in Jackson Hole,” come here and get better,” Wilson said. “We Wilson said. work really hard to keep rider-friendly stock, Rodeos begin at 8 p.m. on Wednesdays as we are in the business of growing cow- and Saturdays, from Memorial Day weekend boys. There are lots of people that are in- through Labor Day (except on June 29), with volved in getting a bronc rider to a additional rodeos July 4th and every Friday in championship. We like to think that we are July and August, except during Teton County the catalyst to get that started, the little thing Fair week (July 21-27). The regular season that lights a fire and creates the drive to be- ends with the YETI Finals on August 30 and 31. come a champion in the rodeo arena.” Rodeo tickets are available at the gate, online Growing cowboys is one of JH Rodeo’s at jhrodeo.com, or by phone at 307-733-7927. goals, another is to educate the public about The rodeo season will cap off with its secrodeo. The outfit’s “VIP Behind the Chutes ond annual Shriners Benefit Rodeos, SeptemExperience” program helps in that arena. ber 4 and 7. All proceeds go to the Shriners “This is something that very few other places Childrens’ Hospital. offer,” said co-owner Phil Wilson. Limited to — Adventure Guide. yellowstoneadventureguide.com
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cody WYOMING 82414 By Mike Calabrese
C
ody, Wyoming, barely an hour from the nation’s foremost national park, doesn’t shy away from the challenge of living up to the legendary status of its namesake, Colonel William F. “Buffalo Bill” Cody. And a visit to this living museum of the Old and New West leaves little doubt about the town’s niche among mountaincountry treasures.
Another notable byway, the Beartooth AllAmerican Road, is not for the faint of heart— but undeniably worth the traverse. Its 10,947-foot crest has led some to call it “the most beautiful highway in America.” The vistas are unequalled and worth their weight in gold – or camera equipment. And those are just for starters. A stay in Cody is something like a dig for archaeologists, revealing layer upon layer of
Above: Old Trail Town preserves many historic structures of the early settlers in the Cody region. Below left: The Cody Nite Rodeo is now in its 81st year and the historic Cody Stampede will highlight the nation’s July 4th holiday for the 100th year. Below: The colorful 38th Annual Plains Indian Powwow takes place June 15-16, at the Buffalo Bill Center of the West.
Bob Woodall photos
Cody lies at the hub of several breathtaking Western roadways and affords the traveler journeys into scenery unsurpassed anywhere. For starters: The Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway courses alongside the Shoshone River’s north fork, through the Wapiti (a Native American word for elk) Valley, and links up with Yellowstone National Park. Another thoroughfare, The Chief Joseph Scenic Highway, besides recalling one of U.S. history’s most heartbreaking events, winds through the Clark’s Fork region, past Sunlight Basin and to the top of Dead Indian Pass. As the names suggest, neither the area’s history nor the lay of the land can be ignored here.
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life’s insights and adventures, and well worth the time. Anglers, bikers, river runners, hunters, hikers, horse enthusiasts—pretty much anyone drawn to the region’s impressive landscape— will all uncover its treasures. The North and South forks of the Shoshone River, their waters roiling and teeming with life, play host to adventurers of all ages and abilities. On the river in kayaks or rafts, or casting a line from a bank or into a pool of cutthroat, water recreationists can put their energies to work sunup to sundown. Families looking for a quick hike into Buffalo Bill’s beloved country can trek pretty much right from the town environs on the Paul Stock Nature Trail. The pathway parallels the Shoshone River and reveals views of Heart, Rattlesnake, Cedar, and Carter mountains. Cameras and kids will love this jaunt.
Binge Watch
Nature
MuSic iS peRManenTLy eTcHeD inTo coDy’S coLoRfuL fabRic. THe Town bubbLeS wiTH auRaL anD ViSuaL
For A Change.
DeLiGHTS, fRoM cowboy MuSic ReViewS To cHuck waGon DinneRS wiTH LiVe enTeRTainMenT. Bikers, too, find quick easy access into trails—again, right from town. Beck Lake Park, Red Lakes, and the Paul Stock Nature Trail make crafting a colorful family outing a snap. The West and horses, both symbols of the region, go hand in hand and still tug at travelers to Cody country. Hundreds of miles of trails, full- or half-day rides, or full-blown multi-day pack trips await those chomping at the bit to “sit a horse,” as the cowpokes say. Like any healthy community, Cody is proud of its cultural life. But Cody’s palette of offerings has the added benefit of geography and history. The vibrant Buffalo Bill Center of the West (BBCW), a constantly growing museum, showcases and celebrates the rich, epochal American West. Boasting five museums under one roof, the BBCW is also home to the prized Cody Firearms Museum. Newly refashioned for 2019, it holds no fewer than 7,000 classic and vintage arms. The center’s four other wings celebrate the art, legend, and humanity that made up the Old West. Beyond the museum’s walls, the town’s complex of iconic edifices helps preserve Cody’s connection to one of America’s most prized eras, the settling of the Old West. Buffalo Bill’s Irma Hotel, nearby historic Old Town, Tecumseh’s Old West Village, and the Dug Up Cody Museum, to name just a few, should easily keep kids and adults pondering history’s eye into the past. Music, too, is permanently etched into Cody’s colorful fabric. The town bubbles with aural and visual delights, from cowboy music reviews to chuck wagon dinners with live entertainment. Westerners consider fall the most beautiful time of the year. Appropriately, Cody’s Rendezvous Royale, one of the town’s signature events, is slated for September 16-21 this year. The event draws artists, photographers,
CodyYellowstone.org or call 1-800-393-CODY
Plan your trip today at
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BUFFALO BILL DAM
During peak runoff in June both spillways spout millions of gallons of water.
n the heart of Colonel William F. Cody’s old haunt, in fact right on some of Cody’s own land, one piece of Wyoming reflects nature and man at work together, albeit reluctantly: The Buffalo Bill Dam. Fashioned from almost 83,000 cubic yards of concrete over five years, the dam sits on the bed of the Shoshone River, in a canyon carved by nature over millions of years. The massive project in the Shoshone Canyon required importing many immigrants and claimed the lives of seven men during its construction, no small cost when compared to the pittance (by today’s standards) of the project’s final bill: $929,658. At 325 feet high and 200 feet across, the impressive structure was the tallest of its kind back in its early days, when it was known as the Shoshone Dam. Upon its completion in 1910, water flowed from the dam, providing lifeblood to the region’s farmers, ranchers, and residents. More than 93,000 acres of land in the surrounding Bighorn Basin depend on the liquid gold stored behind the barrier for irrigation. The addition of the structure’s Shoshone Power Plant in 1922 brought the dam to its full potential. In 1946 the dam was renamed in honor of Buffalo Bill, who early on recognized the value of the West and perhaps its most coveted element: water. A visionary, Cody realized that canals could never really supply enough water to efficiently nurture settlement and growth in the region. He gave up on his own plan for an
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extensive canal system and redirected his efforts and support to the dam’s construction. Still reliably fulfilling its original purpose, the dam today also draws thousands of admirers and recreationists as well. Buffalo Bill State Park and the reservoir’s waters play host to anglers, boaters, campers, photographers, windsurfers, hikers, cyclists, and those simply seeking a breathtaking place to comprehend the results of nature’s and man’s combined efforts. The visitor center is staffed and open from May to September, affording visitors jawdropping views of the dam, the canyon, and the river 325 feet below. Best of all, admission is free! On Great Dam Day, August 17, visitors will be permitted to hike down the “old dam road.” From 9 a.m. until 3 p.m., the center will allow access down the normally closed-off road that winds its way to the bottom of the canyon for an awesome view of the structure from below. A nonprofit enterprise, the Buffalo Bill Dam Visitor Center also offers travelers the chance to grab a cup of coffee while viewing exhibits, enjoying a movie in its theater, or even purchasing tickets to nearby Cody’s Nite Rodeo. The Buffalo Bill Dam has been designated a National Civil Engineering Landmark and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. For more information, visit the website at: www.bbdvc.com. —Mike Calabrese
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Inspired engineering among the crags
On Great Dam Day, August 17, visitors can walk down the “old dam road” to the bottom of the Shoshone Canyon to view the structure from river level. tetonadventureguide.com
Bob Woodall photos Top left: The Shoshone River provides miles of challenging waters for paddlers. Top right: The nightly shootout, next to Buffalo Bill’s Irma Hotel, offers an entertaining look at the Old West. Above: Wapiti Valley between Cody and Yellowstone National Park is a 50-mile long scenic drive with ever-changing and amazing vistas. Continued from page 87 sculptors, and a festive crowd downtown and offsite to sample great food, fashion, music and, well, a royal gathering. And, finally, there’s the Cody Nite Rodeo, with all its spectacle, drama, and plain old family fun. Cody hails as the Rodeo Capitol of the World. Its season, now leaving the chute for the 81st year, runs nightly from June 1 through August 31. And the historic Cody Stampede, highlighting the nation’s July 4th holiday, will notch number 100 this year. The Stampede kicks off on June 30 at 8 p.m. with the Xtreme Bulls event, where 40 of the world’s top bull riders shoot for the title and its $15,000 purse. July 1, 2, and 3 rodeo performances are at 8 p.m. and the July 4th performance is at 5 p.m. Sometimes, though, the simple things in life yield the greatest treasures. In a move the town’s founders would be proud of, the chamber of commerce has created an audio tour narrated by hometown boy and former U.S. Senator Alan Simpson. An audio clip and a PDF map, both downloadable from yellowstoneadventureguide.com
www.codychamber.org, afford visitors with their feet on the ground a relaxing view into Cody’s downtown history. Simpson’s charming, heartfelt narration is the perfect companion for a rewarding walking tour into Cody’s legacy and its landmarks—in town
and on the horizons. The chamber’s site hosts a colorful compendium of photos, information, and opportunities for the visitor to Cody country. Just right for families planning the trip of a lifetime into the living West – old and new.
■ Located 6 miles west of Cody, Wyoming ■ Civil Engineering Landmark ■ Travel Information
■ Self-guided historical
audio tour
■ Fantastic views, exhibits,
Bookstore & Free Wi-Fi
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Where History Comes Alive
T
By Mike Calabrese
the 14 million acres of public, tribal, and private lands known as the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem is a monumental task. The Draper manages it handily. Breathtaking displays of grizzly bears, wolves, mountain lions, birds of prey, and even the much-derided magpie are gathered here in stunning depictions that quicken the pulse of museum-goers young and old. No small task when trying to present indoors the sensation of being outdoors in the Yellowstone region’s vibrant habitat. The Old West, of course, was an arena for survival. Daily demands for sustenance and protection spawned a relationship with weapons, notably guns of all types. The Cody Firearms Museum, newly refashioned for 2019, presents the world of personal arms through a massive collection. Rifles, pistols, powderhorns and flasks and their muzzleloaders, bayonets and bayonetted pieces, and ammo reflect the West’s need for and fascination with guns. The big names are here, naturally:
Bob Woodall (chuck wagon); BBCW photo (Draper Natural History Museum)
he American West, epic in so many ways, deserves a worthy portal into its undisputed magnificence. The Buffalo Bill Center of the West can justly lay claim to that role. An hour from Yellowstone National Park, this museum complex is a trove of the West’s natural, cultural, and historical facets. The Center’s stunning structure, set in the historic town of Cody, Wyoming, houses five complete museums, each a gem in its own right. The byways linking the Center and Yellowstone National Park are themselves windows into a world of wonder. Traversing them in either direction yields even more depth to a visit to the Buffalo Bill Center of the West—or to Yellowstone, for that matter. Travelers to the region would be well served by starting at the Center’s Draper Natural History Museum. Spotlighting glories that epitomize
Courtesy BBCW
Buffalo Bill Center of the West
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Bob Woodall photos
Winchester, Colt, Remington, Sharps, Savage, Smith and Wesson, even Daisy. The Crossbow, the Gatling gun, bullet molds, swords and scabbards, and long-revered posters add additional layers to the lore and history of Western weaponry. Those weapons of course reflect an era’s movement into a challenging, at times brutal, frontier. Its terrain, trials, and splendor inspired a genre of art brilliantly preserved in the Whitney Western Art Museum. Visitors familiar with prominent artists like Remington, Russell, Bierstadt, Bama, and others may soon add the likes of Abasaroka (Crow) artist Earl Biss and Montana native T.D. Kelsey to their list of impressive forces in the art world. One of the most powerful dimensions of the American West and its plains were its Indians. More than 40 Indian cultures shaped the vast region before, during, and after the 19th Century collision with the western migration. The Center’s Plains Indian Museum commands the visitor to look into the heart of cultures created by the Hidatsa, Cheyenne, Crow, Arikara, Arapaho, Assiniboine, Blackfoot, Apache, Gros Ventre, and Mandan, among others. As with the rest of the Center’s museums, visual and aural interactivity helps breathe life into the relationship between museum-goer and history exhibited. The yearly Plains Indian Powwow, held on site, lures audience members into a traditional form of celebration so distinctive in many cultures—dance. Indian culture and pride is on full display through the powwow and the Plains Indian Museum. The dancers’ skill and regalia compel the eyes, ears, and hearts of those lucky enough to witness the powwow. Even a museum recognized as the “The Smithsonian of the West” owes it origins to something or someone. Undeniably, William F. “Buffalo Bill” Cody, the town and museum’s namesake, holds a prominent place in the history of the West. Showman, guide, scout, entrepreneur, highly skilled outdoorsman, Cody’s nickname, although well-deserved, seems almost too glib for one of the West’s most iconic figures. Too one-dimensional. The Center’s Buffalo Bill Museum—replete with artifacts, memorabilia, clothing, and documents—helps flesh out his life and times. The wing could easily stand alone and do justice to the complex man himself. The collection’s presentation of Cody and the reach of his fame is a compelling complement to the Center’s other four component exhibitions. Cody embraced and celebrated the West he found. But the gifts of the West, its life-altering and continued magnificence, are nowhere better revealed or more inspiring than at the Buffalo Bill Center of the West. For a dazzling preview of what many regard as the most rewarding museum in the West, go online at centerofthewest.org. Mike Calabrese, a musician, writer, and editor, has lived in Jackson Hole for 46 years. You might catch him performing year-round in the valley or fly fishing GYE’s still beautiful waters alongside his wife, Jeri.
Top Left: The black and white oil on canvas A Post Office in the “Cow Country,” ca. 1901, by Frederic Remington (1861 – 1909) is one of the many treasures housed at the Center. Museum Purchase. 11.76 Bottom left: In front of the Center, chuck wagon cooking demonstrator Ron Reed stirs a pot of Dutch-oven beans that he serves to visitors. Bottom right: A young visitor looks up to an allosaurus cast in the Center’s Draper Natural History Museum. Top: The Whitney Western Art Museum displays masterworks from the great artist of the American West. Center: The bighorn sheep display in the Draper Natural History Museum. Bottom: Young visitors to the Plains Indian Museum view a scene depicting the Cheyenne migration . yellowstoneadventureguide.com
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Jackson
WYOMING 83001
By Mike Calabrese
I gnoring the call of Jackson Hole’s landscape is darn near impossible. Occasionally, though, recreationists have to turn things outside in. Those yearning for a less high-octane fix in these cool digs will find plenty to do. Here’s the inside scoop: Jackson Town Square
Dedicated in 1934, this place is pretty hip for a square. The charming park, bounded by wood fences, is home to the four iconic elk antler arches and Wyoming’s famous bucking bronc and rider. You’ll be hard pressed to pass up a photo op underneath those arches. The park, its shade trees, lawn, and benches all sit sidesaddle to the town stagecoach stop, the nightly shootout, and weekly summer farmers’ markets. Jackson elected one of the nation’s first all-women town councils back in 1920. Fitting, then, that the valley’s first Women’s March—in January 2017—culminated at the town square. March number 3, held in 2019, was dedicated to local federal employees who lost their salaries during the government shutdown. If those councilwomen could only see us now.
Jackson Hole Museum
Another valley treasure chest worth exploring—or musing in. Ken Burns himself took advantage of this museums trove for his epic, “The National Parks: America’s Best Idea.” The valley’s bucolic ranchlands, charming town, and village areas belie the often brutal demands Mother Nature pressed on Jackson Hole’s earliest Native Americans, settlers, and visitors. The museum offers free town walking tours that depart from the Town Square (See, we told you it was hip!) every Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday at 10:30 a.m. Tours happen rain or shine. A glance at the museum’s online interactive atlas of Jackson Hole reveals notable historical sites of dude ranching, homesteading, the National Elk Refuge, and archaeology. Books and photos are available for the more traditionally curious. Online at jacksonholehistory.org.
Stagecoach Ride
There’s a stage leaving town—Well, in this case, the Town Square, and everyone wants to be on it. A true-to-life, colorfully restored conveyance, complete with working cowpoke driver, this rig gives free rein to everyone’s enthusiasm for the Old West. Hauled by horses that know their way around the town square, passengers get a feel for Old West travel—minus the dust, dirt, and duration of overland travel more no-
Downtown Jackson is the hub for activities , shops, and galleries clustered around the town square. Snow King Mountain holds a commanding view of it all.
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Bob Woodall photos Above: Traditional summer theater is continues courtesy of the Jackson Hole Playhouse. This summer’s musical Big River: The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn runs six nights a week. Right: The Grand Teton Range towers over the town of Jackson and Greater Snow King trail system, which offers miles of singletrack for bikers and hikers.
table for its challenges than for comfort. Drop by the Stage Stop at Jackson’s main street intersection from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. for details about rides. No need to ride shotgun—the locals are pretty friendly.
Shootout
If there’s strength in numbers, the Jackson Hole Shootout remains pretty much unassailable. As many as 4 million folks have witnessed this piece of street theatre over its 60-year run. Don’t plan on tying up your horse next to the gunfight, though. That parcel is already claimed by the Town Square Stagecoach. Settle yourself and your compadres downtown before the first shots are fired at 6:00 p.m. Big attitude by the bad guys, sterling character by the good ones, and flashy costuming from all. Plenty of noise as the villains are laid to rest after being given fair warning. Evenings, except Sundays, so the outlaws can reflect on their evil ways.
Teton County/Jackson Recreation Center
Open all year, Monday through Friday 8 a.m to 5 p.m., this newly remodeled indoor refuge, located two blocks from the Jackson Town Square, is home to a 25-yard lap pool, a therapy pool, a splash pool, a leisure pool, a water slide, and a hot tub. Buckets of equip-
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The town of Jackson, itself a scenic treat, is framed by a glorious and diverse landscape.
People’s Market
Center for the Arts
Nothing fusty about this edifice, home to Jackson’s vibrant cultural community. Its campus, replete with a first-tier performance auditorium, is also home to classrooms opening into the worlds of dance, music, theatre,
Cowboy Coaster-Snow King Mountain visual and literary arts, and inspiring spaces for celebrations of all types. Jackson’s showcase for the arts sets the bar for regional cultural venues. A block off the Jackson town square, the center nourishes cultural appetites year-round, both indoors and outdoors.
Bob Woodall, Wade McKoy photos
ment can be rented for a field full of recreation (softball and flag football equipment, horseshoes, volleyball, croquet, Bocce ball, broomball), even an onsite birthday-party facility. Online at tetonparksandrec.org or call 307-739-9025.
Homegrown tomatoes at Farmers Market
Wranglers at the Triangle X Ranch herd the riding stock to pasture for the night.
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The Teton Range northwest of Jackson extends to the boundary of Yellowstone Nationl Park.
Jackson Town Square entertainment Something’s always happening here. Like that box of chocolates, you never know what you’ll get. Take a peak by opening the lid online at jhcenterforthearts.org.
Boy Scouts at Elk Fest Antler Auction
People’s Market
It’s what the people want: food that’s good, clean, and fair. Add ‘fun’ to that and the People’s Market is off and running. Summer draws 4,000-5,000 folks to these festive gatherings, held Wednesday evenings from 4-7 at
July 4th parade the base of Snow King, the Town Hill. Yep, it’s about food here, and also about food producers, music, micro brews, the nearby park and climbing wall, and a market that’s family friendly. May 29-September 18, 2019. More than 50 vendors, local and regional, source
Raised locally by the Hansen/Mead family for over 100 years. All natural Jackson Hole beef raised on conservation land and finished with spent grains.
Our beef are steroid and antibiotic free and are always humanely treated by gentle cowboys.
Mead Beef is dry-aged for 21 days for the most succulent steaks and bodacious burgers. Available at the Jackson Hole Farmers Market
And these fine Jackson establishments: Mangy Moose • Teton Pines Snake River Grill • Snake River Brew Pub Sweet Cheeks Meats yellowstoneadventureguide.com
A s k u s a b o u t ha v i ng yo u r e ve nt a t M e a d Ra nc h i n b e a ut i f ul S pr in g G ul c h • C o r p o r a t e E v e n t s • We d d i n g s • S o c i a l E v e n t s • Jackson Hole Natural Beef, LLC Jackson, Wyoming • 307.734.3911 www.meadranch.net
Bob Woodall The town square’s famous elk antler arches frame the stage for musicians during the weekly Farmers’ Market. food for the People’s Market. Bring your own glass to help support the market’s zero-waste pilot program. But leave Fido home! www.tetonslowfood.org
Farmers’ Market
Jackson Hole’s growing season may be limited, but not its willingness to celebrate the
HÄAGEN-DAZS ICE CREAM
All natural ice cream (Gluten-free flavors available). Non-dairy ice cream and sorbet, huckleberry shakes, smoothies, sundaes, shakes, espresso drinks, ice cream cakes. We make our own waffle cones! Locally owned and operated. Since 1993, on the southeast corner of the Jackson Town Square. 90 E. Broadway | Jackson 307.739.1880 www.haagendazs.com
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joy of pure, real food. Weekly farmers’ markets, held on that hip square in the center of town, draw as many residents as visitors. More than 40 local venders ply their prized farm-fresh products and homemade baked delights beneath the iconic elk antler arches as live music and the Chef of the Week help
feed the festive feeling of shoppers. This homegrown enterprise has raised over $425,000 for local non-profits since it began 19 years ago. Held 8 to noon each Saturday, beginning the first Saturday after July 4, it runs through the third Saturday in September.
PINKY G’s PIZZERIA
Cozy up at Pinky G’s Pizzeria! The local favorite. Located ½ block off Town Square. Televised on Guy Fieri’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. Voted Best Pizza in Jackson Hole. Try the menu favorite, The Abe Froman, with spiced sausage, mozzarella, and basil. With 20 beers to choose from, full bar & live music, we are sure to keep you entertained. Jackson’s only place OPEN LATE! 50 W. Broadway | Jackson 307.734.PINK (7465) www.pinkygs.com
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Thirsty after an exhilarating day in beautiful Jackson Hole? Stop by Westside Wine & Spirits in the Aspens on Teton Village Road for a savory wine, scrumptious beer, or tempting spirit. Our knowledgable staff is here everyday from 10 am-9 pm. At the Aspens | Teton Village Road 307.733.5038 www.westsidewinejh.com tetonadventureguide.com
Hole Bowl
An entertainment option right up everyone’s alley—The Hole Bowl. Ten lanes, 10 bigscreen TVs, food and drink to please anyone, even private lanes for parties! A boutique bowling experience with none of the pretense. Here it’s all about the fun. Jackson’s weather can turn on a dime but those outdoor adventures needn’t be rained or snowed out. Cool off, warm up, hit your stride on these firstclass alleys, or try your hand at darts, pool, or in the video arcade. Parents can join the kids on lanes or settle into a couch while the brood has a blast. Tons of free parking right outside the door.
Jackson Hole Children’s Museum
Through the eyes of a child…. and those eyes will be wide open at this center of wonder. Perhaps the valley’s most unique attraction for kids, there’s nothing childish about the brilliance behind the museum’s summer camp offerings and the facility’s engaging exhibits. Open year-round, its summer programs transport kids into the worlds of water, land, and air. A sampling of previous week-long programs proves it: Flight Camp, Water Power, Wild Art and Human Nature, and Dwellings, Dens, and Design. A first-rate staff oversees the kids at the museum and on adventures into the valley’s wonders. Weekly camp adventures available. For more info go to jhchildrensmuseum.org.
Jackson Hole Playhouse
The Old West has come and gone, but more than enough of it is still showcased in this vintage theater, restaurant, and saloon just a block off the Jackson town square. At home in one of Jackson’s oldest structures, this locally owned enterprise serves up bushels of fun, food, and live music for the entire family. Just a block off the Jackson town square, this year’s musical, “Big River: The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn,” features bluegrass and country arrangements that capture the setting of Mark Twain's classic novel. The original 1985 Broadway production ran for more than 1,000 performances, a rare success for an American musical. The playhouse’s Saddle Rock Saloon warms up patrons with song, food, and exuberance, and enough energy to light up anyone’s day. Mike Calabrese is a musician, writer, and editor living in Wilson, Wyoming. This is his 31st year as copy editor for Focus Productions, Inc.
NOTEWORTHY MUSIC BOOKING AGENCY • The finest live music acts in the region • Jazz • Swing • Rock • Country Solos • Duos • Trios & Big Band • Impeccable references
Michael Calabrese 307-733-5459 P.O. Box 289 • Wilson, WY 83014 www.noteworthymusicagency.com jhnoteworthy@gmail.com yellowstoneadventureguide.com
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• MaDISON • MOraN • FIrEhOLE • GIBBON • TEEWINOT • rOOSEvELT LODGE • WaShBurN • JENNY LakE • LEIGh LakE • NOrrIS • GaLLaTIN • WIND rIvEr • aBSarOka • WapITI vaLLEY
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SNOW kING • haYDEN vaLLEY • MOOSE • WILSON • TETON vILLaGE • DrIGGS • vICTOr • GraND TarGhEE • BEarTOOTh • COOkE CITY •
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G E T $7 O F F Y O U R AERIAL TRAM TICKET OR $1 0 O F F A FA M I LY PA S S * J AC K S O N H O L E . C O M * R AT E AVA I L A B L E O N L I N E O N LY
Jackson Hole Mountain Resort delivers summer adventure for all in our majestic natural setting — just 12 miles from Jackson Hole on the way to Grand Teton National Park. Take a ride on the iconic Aerial Tram to see the Tetons on a grand scale, hike miles of scenic trails dotted with wildflowers, climb high on a guided climbing experience known as Via Ferrata or enjoy a delicious meal with a view at a mountain-top restaurant. If you love exhilaration, you’ll also love the Grand Adventure Park’s Aerial Ropes course, bungee tramp and downhill mountain bike park. The Tetons are calling. Come choose your own adventure.