Teton and Yellowstone Adventure Guide 2017

2017

ADVENTURE Guide GRAND TETON & YELLOWSTONE

101 Things To Do

Activities, Events, Scenic Drives

Shopping

Jackson, Teton Village, Wilson

Resorts

Snow King, Targhee, Jackson Hole

Wildlife

Solar Eclipse Viewing Tips

America’s Serengeti

Water Sports SUP, Kayak, Raft

Fishing

Tips From the Pros

Climbing yellowstoneadventureguide.com

Guides Take You There

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Contents

NATURE 6 16 18 20

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101 Things To Do Total Solar Eclipse The Moulton Barns Bert Raynes – Nature Yet Preserved in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center Wildlife Tours in Grand Teton & Yellowstone national parks National Museum of Wildlife Art

28 32 35 36

Jackson Cody Buffalo Bill Dam Cody Nite Rodeo

40 44 48

Snow King Mountain Resort Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Grand Targhee Mountain Resort

52 53 54 56

What’s In Your Pack?

Bear Safety Alpine Medical Advice Foot Care

38 39 58 60 64 66 72 76 78 80 82 84 87

Treetop Adventure at Snow King Sleeping Giant Ziplines Sea Kayaking Whitewater & Scenic Rafting Stand Up Paddle Boarding Fishing Climbing Via Ferrata Motorcycle Touring Shooting Sports Horseback Riding Mountain Biking Community Pathways

88 88 89 90

Lodging Directory Map – Town of Jackson Index of Advertisers Map – Greater Yellowstone

21 22

TOWNS

RESORTS

PREPARATION

RECREATION

Publishers: Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy, dba Focus Productions, Inc. (fpi) Editors: Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall, Mike Calabrese Photo Editor: Eric Rohr Art Director: Wade McKoy Graphic Artist: Janet Melvin Advertising Sales: Debra Snyder focusgroup@focusproductions.com, 307-733-6995

Contributing Photographers: Taylor Phillips, John Waller, Josh Metten, Sue Ernisse, Scott Smith, Bob Woodall, Wade McKoy

Copyright 2017 by Focus Productions, Inc. P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, WY 83001.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publishers.

Cover photo by Wade McKoy, hiker Mari Hanson, Grand Teton National Park Contents photo by Wade McKoy, biker Holly McKoy, Teton Pass, Wyoming

MAPS & DIRECTORIES

101 Things Vacation Adventures

Big

To Do

in Mountain Country

playgound up here in the Teton/Yellowstone region. Sometimes even the locals struggle over all the choices in this epic backyard.

Visitors aren’t the only folks who dip into the guide you’re holding. Locals sometimes need a reminder of the generous opportunities nature and enterprise hold for them. And, like visitors, we’ll stop by our first-rate visitor centers, libraries, bookstores, and restaurants to pick up new insights into our playground. Following are some of the activities worthy of a list and a look!

Hiking—An almost endless array of trails radiate into the mountains. The only limits are your legs and longing. The views? You supply the adjectives.

Camping—The great outdoors was made for camping. Get away from the car or motor home and rough it! Cook out on an open fire and sleep under the stars. Nothing like it under the sun, of course.

Climb the Grand—Often listed in the 100 things to do in your life, and for a good reason.

Despite a peak 7,000 feet above the valley, topping the Grand is an attainable goal for anyone in good physical condition and among the right companions. Some of the world’s best guides and instructors live here.

Mountain biking—Our single-track trails on Teton Pass and in Cache Creek are among the finest in the country. Maps at friendsofpathways.org.

Pathways—Walk, ride a bike, rollerblade.

Jackson Hole’s extensive pathway system rewards all users with a peaceful state of mind.

The valley parkway’s new R Park awaits at the stunning crossroads of the Snake River and the thoroughfare between town, Wilson, and Teton Village.

Skateboard Park—Concrete has its place, even in Jackson Hole. Very cool skateboard park, located on West High School Road, south of town and right next to the pathways system. Tennis courts, softball fields, picnic shelter and restrooms round out the complex.

Shooting—Certified pistol- and rifle-use instruction, skeet and trap shooting with shotguns, all at the Jackson Hole Gun Club site

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

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south of Jackson. A wide selection of guns, covered shooting area, two separate pistol bays, and a classroom.

Mountain man rendezvous—The 81st Annual Green River Rendezvous, July 6-9, 2017, in Pinedale, Wyoming, is a pageant that educates visitors about the history of fur-trade era events. Rendezvous also take place throughout the summer in Jackson, Alpine, and West

GET WESTERN

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Yellowstone and are open to the public. Great places to find unique items. Or outfit yourself and join in the fun!

Indian Pow-wows—This is Indian country, too, and perfect for a traditional Pow-wow. The most prominent one is the Annual Plains Indian Museum Pow-wow, June 17, 18 this year, in Cody, Wyoming. Indian dancers try to catch the judges’ eyes with personal style, footwork falling on the beat of the music, and beautifully crafted dance attire.

Wade McKoy

Scott Sanchez hooks a Snake River fine-spotted cutthroat trout in Granite Creek.

The Jackson Hole Aerial Tram carries sightseers and hikers into the alpine zone.

Chuckwagon dinners and shows—Ranging from dinner under the Tetons at Dornan’s to polished performances showcasing cowboy musicians and theater in many of our mountain towns. Grab the young ones and board covered Conestoga wagons heading up a scenic canyon for an old-fashioned wrangler’s dinner and Western music show.

Horseback trail rides and pack trips—You are in the West after all, so what better way to experience it than astride a horse. Head to the hills for an hour, a day, or even a week.

Stagecoach rides—In Jackson Hole, a short stagecoach ride around downtown Jackson will light up the faces of young and old.

From Roosevelt Lodge in YNP, stagecoaches, replicas of those used in early park days, course through four miles of sagebrush and flower-embroidered flats.

Cody Trolley Tours—A 60-minute, 22-mile tour in a comfortable red and green trolley.

Narrators recount the story of William F. “Buffalo Bill” Cody while highlighting historical sites, scenic vistas, geology, wildlife, and Oldand New-West attractions.

Dude ranches—The quintessential Western vacation. From rustic to polished, these weeklong emersions into the lore of the Old West are the perfect family getaway.

Rodeo—The Old West rides into arenas nightly in Cody and several times a week in Jackson and West Yellowstone. Rodeos, like fireworks and parades, are also integral to July 4th celebrations throughout the West.

Shootout—The legendary Old West shootout is re-enacted nightly on the streets of Jackson and Cody. For real-action shooting, though, check out Cody’s Wild West Shootout competition in June. No blanks at this event.

Visit a ghost town—Tour the abandoned

Bob Woodall

Wade McKoy photo; Hikers: Monica Purington, Hadley Hammer

Below: Rodeo cowboys help one another ready in the chute for a wild ride.

gold-mining town of Kirwin in the mountains southwest of Meeteetse. Four-wheel drive recommended.

Cody’s Old Trail Town—One-of-a-kind buildings from the past, including the famous hideout used by Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. Colorful characters might still haunt nearby gravesites, too.

Mule Days—Don’t be stubborn! Check out Jake Clark’s Mule Days in Ralston, near Cody, June 14-18, 2017. The venerable saddle mule

is front and center in its own parade, rodeo, and auction, all highlighting a true Western character.

Hop on the Bus—The Jackson Hole START Bus system makes getting around easy. In Jackson ride all over town for free.

Buses are on a half-hour schedule. Hourly departures to Teton Village. Three bucks for adults, half price for seniors and students

GET A LIFT

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Wade McKoy

Jackson Hole’s singletrack — abundant, varied, and renowned.

Bob Woodall

Below: An historic stagecoach carries travelers around Jackson’s Western town square.

through 12th grade. Buses also run south to Star Valley and west to Teton Valley. Visit startbus.com for a complete fee/time schedule and maps.

Yellow buses in Yellowstone—Their lineage is from the 1930s but their appeal remains as strong today as it was back then. Grab the camera and all the fun and leave the driving to a pro. Highlights of the park’s most notable features and then some. A busload of tour op-

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tions is available, too.

Aerial Tram—Climb 4,139 feet above the valley floor aboard the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram. At the summit of Rendezvous Mountain, a lofty 10,450 feet, tram passengers step out into the Alpine zone, right at the tree-line’s edge. Take in a 360-degree panorama of the Jackson Hole valley and nearby and distant mountain features. Ride the tram, hike the trails or “fly” back to the valley floor.

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Tandem paragliding—From the top of the tram, sprout wings on a 20-minute tandem flight with Jackson Hole Paragliding. Certified pilots with hundreds of hours flying in the Tetons are eager to introduce first-timers to the exhilarating experience of tandem paragliding.

Chairlifts—Not only do these lifts get you up above it all for an impressive view of the scenery, but they also provide quick backcountry access for hikers and mountain bikers.

Boardwalks and wide-open shop-lined streets from the old West are central to every gateway town in Teton / Yellowstone country. Jackson’s town square is set off by elk-antler archways and ringed by boardwalks and historic buildings (again, don’t forget the camera). Unique shops, eateries, and galleries characterize these mountain towns.

Both Snow King and Grand Targhee mountain resorts offer rides.

Dine on a mountainside—Ride the Bridger Gondola at Teton Village up to the five restauarants in the Rendezvous Lodge for a peak dining experience 2,730 feet above the valley. Or head up for afternoon cocktails on the Deck and marvel at a high-altitude Jackson Hole sunset. The ride is free.

Balloon rides—Greet the morning by lofting into crisp mountain air under a colorful hotair balloon.

Bungee-trampolining—Give your youngster the thrill of a trampoline with the lift and spring of bungee cords.

Alpine slide—Take the chairlift up, then board a sled for a journey down a mountain slide that curves and dips through the glade at Snow King.

Mountain Coaster— Forget the aerial acrobatics! The Snow King roller coaster is all about breathtaking moves right on some of terra firma’s most spectacular landscape. Getting up couldn’t be easier! Except for getting down.

Glider rides—Mountains create updrafts, and that means good gliding. Check the Driggs, Idaho, airport for information on glider rides.

tage cars displayed at the Silver Collector Car Show and Auction, July 1-2 in Teton Village.

Rendezvous Royale—Here’s a Western extravaganza that combines it all: Western art, Western music, Western dining, Western fashion, and Western food, right in the heart of

Cody, Wyoming, a town with a name as Western as they come. Events start in August and run through September.

Fall Arts Festival—A major Jackson Hole shindig, commencing around Labor Day and running through mid September. The confab is

Music festivals—A score of music events await mountain-country travelers. The worldclass Grand Targhee Bluegrass and Targhee Fest and music camps fill the hills with tunes.

Jackson’s Center for the Arts hosts summer music and dance concerts, stage presentations, and art shows. Teton Village continues its popular free Concert on the Commons performance series, and in Victor, Idaho, free highprofile concerts in the park bring weekly gatherings to its Music on Main events. Jackson Hole Live! will be staging a series of 4 outdoor concerts at the base of Snow King Mountain.

Art fairs—There’s no better way to celebrate nature’s art-inspiring elements than at one of the many artists’ fairs highlighting summer weekends throughout mountain country.

Wander through festive outdoor galleries and watch artisans in the creative act.

Antique shows—Snap up a bargain, maybe even a piece of history, at one of the many antique road shows hosted in our mountain towns.

Classic car shows—Americans love their cars, and none more so than the auto buffs who stage the Jackson Hole Rendezvous in June on the main street lawn of the Virginian Hotel. Sponsored by the Eastern Idaho Early Iron Organization, the event dazzles young and old with restored gems from the golden age of the U.S. auto industry. Want more than just window-shopping? Then view or bid on vin-

CULTURE

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“You can enjoy the smell of the sage, the sounds of the forest, listen to streams, and drink in the landscape.

Horses can cover lots of territory, and in a short time riders can be deep into the mountains. And doing it the way it was done by Indians, mountain men, and cowboys.”

Bob Woodall photos

— Cameron Garnick

highlighted by ranch tours, culinary events, and endless activities.

Gallery walks—Stroll through the many art galleries in mountain towns. It doesn’t cost to look! Join the organized “walks,” often complete with free food!

Walk around the town—Boardwalks and wide-open shop-lined streets from the old West are central to every gateway town in Teton / Yellowstone country. Jackson’s town square is set off by elk-antler archways and ringed by boardwalks and historic buildings (again, don’t forget the camera). Unique shops, eateries, and galleries characterize these mountain towns.

Go shopping—Therapeutic, patriotic, and

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economically stimulating, shopping in mountain country is a gas. From carved bears to elk antler items to unique clothing to everyday dining delights, regional enterprises know how to treat the customer right.

Drive-in theaters—Not many of these left in the world, but one of the more famous, the Spud Drive-in Theatre, just south of Driggs, Idaho, is a trip back in time. Look for the giant spud on the old red flatbed truck, just off the highway between Victor and Driggs, Idaho.

Film festivals—Fall film festivals this season include the Jackson Hole Wildlife Film Festival, September 25-29. Showcased at the Jackson Center for the Arts downtown. Local hint: Watch the local paper for Frank’s Annual

G r a n d T e To n & Ye l lo w s To n e a d v e n T u r e G u i d e 2 0 1 7

Top left: American bison roam the high plains of Davey Jackson’s Hole.

Bottom left: Rodeo cowboys sometimes get a wilder ride than they’d like.

Fall Film Festival. Those in the know go!

Live theater—Family fun right in the heart of towns like Jackson Hole, Cody, and West Yellowstone, some even hosting dinner theater for eats and antics.

Go out to eat—An army runs on its stomach, and an army of tourists has countless dining opportunities out West. Take advantage of mountain country’s diverse gustatory offerings.

Pick up a Jackson Hole Dining Guide, or go online at jhdiningguide.com.

Fire department chicken fries and barbecues—Throughout summer volunteer fire departments throw fundraising chicken-fries and BBQs. All visitors are welcomed, of course. A great way to meet locals and experience a

Morning fog sinks into the river bottom below the Snake River Overlook.

sweet slice of American pie—and to keep many of the volunteers well equipped.

Dance to the music—Don’t just dance to the music, dance to live music. Many bars and taverns offer nightly live music. Get out and kick up your heels! Learn to Western Swing: free lessons at 7:30 on Thursday nights at Jackson’s Cowboy Bar. Learn to Square Dance: another Western tradition, master the dosido and allemande left on Tuesday nights at the Rustic Pine Tavern in Dubois, Wyoming.

Families welcome. Watch for info in all our western towns.

NATIONAL PARKS

Still America’s best idea—for now. A single entrance fee gains access to both Grand Teton

National Park (GTNP) and Yellowstone National Park (YNP). The entrance stations are not information booths, though; better to visit the many well-cached information centers found in the parks themselves and gateway towns. The folks queuing behind your vehicle will appreciate your efficiency and courtesy.

Especially those shuttling a boatload of restless youngsters.

The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem (GYE), the largest intact ecosystem in the lower 48 states, includes a dozen mountain ranges along the Great Divide, the country’s first and largest national park and national forest, the farthest point from a road outside Alaska, and, not surprisingly, wildlife galore.

Picnic—Hey, you’re in the land of countless settings for that outdoor table. Pick up some sammies, cookies, and drinks from grab-n-go establishments and head for the riverbanks, lakeshores, or scenic overlooks. Put that camera to good use on the scenery and your group celebrating life in the Rockies.

Slow down and watch for wildlife— Sometimes called the American Serengeti, YNP and GTNP are home to bison, elk, deer, moose, grizzly and black bear, wolves, mountain lion, wolverine, osprey, eagles, and myriad small animals. Go early in the morning and keep your eyes peeled and, in many places, bear spray at the ready! Lamar and Hayden valleys in YNP are good bets for sighting

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Walk, ride a bike, rollerblade. Pathways reward all users with a peaceful state of mind. Jackson Hole’s Park

new

R

awaits

at

the

stunning

crossroads

of

the Snake River and

the

thorBob Woodall

oughfare between town, Wilson, and Teton Village.

Above left: A walk along the shores of the area’s alpine lakes can provide a myriad of fun opportunities.

Jackson Hole’s Community Pathways provide a safe place for non-motorized travel and recreation.

bison, wolves, and grizzly bears. Moose frequent willowed bottomlands. Stay alert, though, even on strolls around park developments. And never approach or feed wildlife! Up your odds for great photos or experiences by taking a wildlife tour with qualified guides.

Wildlife Tours—Jackson Hole is home to wildlife tour companies that can help reveal the region’s flora and fauna for wildlife enthusiasts, photographers, and folks who simply want to soak up the area’s natural wonders. Tours

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range from part to full-day excursions in both Grand Teton and Yellowstone parks and surrounding national forest.

Waterfalls—The 308-foot Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River is the granddaddy of the park’s many roadside water features, but a hike can reveal its more obscure, dramatic torrents. In the Tetons, thousands of sightseers trek to Hidden Falls, which, for many, begins with a boat ride across glorious Jenny Lake.

Smell the wild roses—The mountains are

G r a n d T e To n & Ye l lo w s To n e a d v e n T u r e G u i d e 2 0 1 7

famous for a profusion of wildflowers. Some are tiny, especially the ones above timberline, so look closely. The show starts in late May and June, when dazzling displays of color chase the snowline as it recedes into the mountains.

Old Faithful Inn—Of course the Old Faithful Geyser is on your must-see list, but don’t pass up the spectacular Old Faithful Inn. Well over 100 years old, rich in history, the inn is “considered the largest log structure in the world.”

Wade McKoy photo; Hiker: Liza Sarychev; Bikers: Hadley Hammer, Monica Purington

Above: Pilot Peak towers over the Beartooth Scenic Biway northeast of Yellowstone National Park.

Wade McKoy photo; SUP: Tommy Moe, Aaron Pruzan

The rapids in the Snake River Canyon provide plenty of variety for whitewater enthusiasts.

Ranger Programs—From Ranger Adventure Hikes to Family Campfire Evenings to Stars Over Yellowstone, these programs offer something for the whole family. The park newspaper contains all the schedules. Online http://www.nps. gov/yell/index.htm, go to Plan Your Visit.

Get on the bus—Tired of having to watch the road while everyone else gets to look for bears? Then savor Yellowstone from the same perspective as early park visitors by touring in the luxury of a refurbished “Historic Yellow Bus.” Photograph the sights—Digital, film, recorder, whatever. Everybody’s a pro out here.

Get a long lens, too. Again, don’t ever approach wild animals! They can easily outrun humans and simply aren’t as fond of us as we are of them.

Passport to your national parks—Buy a “Passport Book” at the park visitor center. A colorful way to track your lifetime travels across America. After each visit to a park or monument (there are 390), take the passport book to the Cancellation Station and get it stamped.

GTNP’s Oxbow Bend channels of the Snake River, just below Jackson Lake Dam. Locals love this section’s calm beauty and window into wildlife. Bring the camera!

Whitewater kayaking—To get really personal with the river, nothing beats being in a kayak, splashing through rapids or surfing a wave for as long as you can hold on.

Stand Up Paddle Boards (SUP)—Feel like Hawaiian royalty standing on a long surfboard

propelling yourself along the river currents.

Paddling while standing affords a bird’s-eye view into the clear waters and stunning terrain.

Rent one and find out why SUP is the fastestgrowing water sport in the world.

Water slide and pool—Rained out or just want to get some exercise? Then head to the J.H. Rec. Center, complete with lap pool, kids’ pool, Jacuzzi, steam room, and three-story water slide. Take the entire family. Supervised,

Fast, Affordable and On Your Way. McDonald’s® of Jackson Hole

WE HAD SNOW AND NOW WE’VE GOT WATER!

Go fish—Mountain country holds some of the best trout streams and lakes in the lower 48 states. The area abounds with angling shops and guide services. Hire a guide or just get out and explore.

Whitewater rafting—The Snake, Shoshone, Yellowstone, and Clark’s Fork rivers sport miles of whitewater action. Lots of commercial services are available, or rent a raft and go get wet.

Scenic raft trips—Not into getting wet?

Then how about a sublime sunrise voyage on the Snake River in front of the Grand Tetons?

Watch a bald eagle soar or dive for breakfast.

Canoeing & sea kayaking—Want to be a little more intimate with the water? The possibilities are almost endless. Rent boats in the town of Jackson to explore our many lakes and streams. For a visual feast and relaxing glide beneath the Tetons, launch that craft at

Open & Serving your favorites 5:00am - Midnight Daily

Free Wi-Fi 1110 W. Broadway, Jackson, WY • 1 mile west of Town Square

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The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River, headed by the Lower Falls.

Top right: Artificial climbing rock in Teton Village, part of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s Grand Adventure Park.

Bottom right: Whitewater rafting in the Snake River Canyon.

adult-led day-adventure programs for kids available, too. Ask about public swimming pools in all mountain country towns.

Swim al fresco—You’ll find a number of unique options for outdoor swimming around mountain country. In YNP, check out the Firehole River near Madison Junction or the Boiling River near Gardiner, where hot springs flow into the river (swimming in hot springs themselves is prohibited and dangerous). In GTNP, String Lake is an outstanding swimming hole, safe for the whole family. If you want it hot and in a commercial swimming pool, visit Granite Hot Springs, south of Jackson.

Sailing and windsurfing—Slide Lake below the historic Gros Ventre landslide above the town of Kelly pulls in the windsurfers as soon as the ice is off. Jackson Lake in GTNP, Yellowstone Lake, and Fremont Lake outside Pinedale all have sailboats in the docks and on the water. Local windsurfers show up when the waves reach whitecap status.

Best dam views—Completed in 1910, the Buffalo Bill Dam near Cody is the most impressive one this side of the Hoover Dam. Stroll across the dam and peer 325 feet into the canyon bottom. In GTNP, drive over Jackson

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Lake Dam, gaze across the lake at the Tetons and marvel at the thundering waters churning out of the spillways. Maybe toss a dry fly or a streamer into those fat-boy holding waters.

But get a license! Rangers and game and fish folks take their jobs seriously.

Teton Park Inner Loop—This idyllic roadway takes you as close to the mountains as you can get in a vehicle. For the best glimpses of wildlife, try early morning and sunset. Camera hounds will enjoy capturing the alpenglow at sunrise or the shadows lengthening at sunset.

Beartooth Pass—Truly one of the most spectacular, not-to-be-missed drives in the U.S. Between Red Lodge, Montana, and the Northeast Entrance of YNP, the highway switchbacks up the slope to above timberline and a 10,940-foot summit. Along the way, cold mountain streams, crashing waterfalls, and deep-blue alpine lakes dot the landscape, while jagged granite peaks stab the sky. The excursion passes from sub-alpine to alpine environments. Allow plenty of time, though; a parade of continuous vistas beckon—and a snowball fight in July is traditional!

SCENIC DRIVES

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Chief Joseph Scenic Highway—Between Cody and the Northeast Entrance of YNP, another zigzagging traverse heads over Dead Indian Hill and into Sunlight Basin. Its isolation and incredible vistas make this wide but infrequently used highway a pleasure to travel along. From the summit you can look deep into both the mountains and the Clarks Fork River Canyon.

Elkhart Park—From Pinedale, the Fremont Lake Road heads north out of town, crosses a glacial moraine, and then climbs past 10-milelong Fremont Lake and on to Elkhart Park.

From this popular trailhead, views are afforded well into the Wind River Mountains and down 2,000 feet to Fremont Lake itself.

Trail Lake Road—Just east of Dubois, Trail Lake Road heads south into the Wind River Mountains and past three jewel-like lakes.

Look for petroglyphs on the boulders along the way. At the end of the road, hike 3 miles to stunning Lake Louise.

Wapiti Valley—Between the East Entrance of YNP and Cody, this spectacular valley is a treat for the eyes. The many strange, eroded rock formations look like, well, whatever your imagination can come up with. Kids excel at

The Greater Yellowstone

Ecosystem, the largest intact ecosystem in the lower

48 states, includes a dozen

mountain ranges along the

Great Divide, the country’s

first and largest national

park and national forest, and

Wade McKoy

the farthest point from a

Bob Woodall photos

road outside Alaska.

this kind of travel creativity. Keep an eye out for the Cookie Monster somewhere up there.

LOOK UP AT THE STARS

Now that night has fallen, don’t just hit the sack. Head outside and cast those eyes skyward. If you’re a city dweller, you really shouldn’t miss this experience. The Milky Way sweeps across the clear western heavens in a blaze of glittering light and confirms the existence of real stars and astronomical delights.

Eclipse 2017—There are few natural spectacles that compare to the rare total eclipse of the sun, and few scenic areas that compare to Grand Teton National Park. On August 21, 2017, folks lucky enough to be in Jackson Hole can experience both when a total solar eclipse of the sun crosses the U.S. See story on page 16. For more information and maps visit tetoneclipse.com National Museum of Wildlife Art— Perched dramatically above the National Elk Refuge, and only minutes from the town square, the National Museum of Wildlife Art of the United States is more an event than a place. Celebrating its 30th year, the museum

EDUCATION

is home to over 5,000 works of art on wildlife and nature – many historic – it also brims with a full summer of festive events. The worldrenowned edifice is eminently approachable, too. Just two miles north of Jackson and along the valley’s premier bike pathway it now also attracts recreationists looking to stimulate the mind and the heart. Ample parking, jaw-dropping views, vivid works of art, and new restaurant Palate make this museum irresistible (pg.

26). For hours, fees, and a schedule of festivities, go online at www.wildlifeart.org, Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center—In downtown Dubois, Wyoming, experience these stunning, full-size bighorns in breathtaking realism set amidst their natural flora and geology. Photos and hands-on exhibits transport visitors into the majestic range and habits of these powerful animals. Set aside some time for the kids to take in the center’s engaging interactive displays and information Muse on!—The Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum recently opened its new facility two blocks north of the Jackson Town Square. View the settlement of Jackson Hole through artifacts, documents, photos, books and the oral histories of trappers, homestead-

ers, dude ranchers, and adventurers.

Libraries—Books, music, movies, lectures, computers, and insight into just about every community in mountain country. Great havens for tired travelers and curious kids, especially if the weather is a bit uncooperative.

Bookstores—Some with coffee, pastries, newspapers, Wi-Fi—but all with books and settings that enrich readers young and old!

Farmers Markets—No reason to strike out for the mega market’s comestibles. Locavores can get their fresh-food fix right on the beaten path. Watch for popular farmers’ markets throughout the region.

Fourth of July—Music, rodeos, community, parades, foot races, and of course fireworks. What more can we say! Local papers post complete lists of events.

County fairs—These are true community events out here in the West. Horses, cows, pigs, sheep, and the best-grown produce of locals, as well as fiddle contests, magic shows, carnival rides and stands complete with corn dogs and cotton candy.

SPECIAL EVENTS

— Adventure Guide

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NASA

The Great American Eclipse

W

By Bob Woodall

hen the Great American Eclipse passes through Jackson Hole this summer, its centerline will bisect Gate Nine at the Jackson Hole Airport. Don’t count on glimpsing the big sun blackout from there, though—it’s likely already spoken for. And if you haven’t yet made viewing plans, better hurry before every other spot in the valley is nabbed!

Few natural spectacles compare to a total eclipse of the sun, and few scenic locales compare to those around Grand Teton National Park. On Monday, August 21, 2017, both will take center stage in Jackson Hole as this astronomical event unfolds directly over the valley. The eclipse’s centerline path extends through Teton Valley, Idaho, across the Tetons and Jackson Hole, then up the Gros Ventre River Valley and onward to the east. Viewing along this line affords the longest duration.

Thousands of locals and visitors to the valley have already set their sights on the spectacle.

If you haven’t, you’d better. So read on.

Although all of the continental United States will experience some degree of the eclipse, totality will only cover a 60-70 mile-wide swath from the Pacific coast of Oregon to the Atlantic Ocean. The solar production will begin at about 10:17 a.m., its first hour and eighteen minutes just a partial eclipse. Then, at approximately 11:34 a.m., the moon will pass directly in front of the sun, completely shadowing mountains and valley for two minutes and twenty-two seconds.

Excitement over the eclipse has been building for years and will peak that Monday as untold millions of people flock to the 60-mile wide path of totality that crosses North America. Festivals and special events have been planned for countless points along that swath of darkness. The solar eclipse will be over in a

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matter of hours, but the gatherings of people before and after will span several days.

Jackson, at the height of its summer tourist season by August, went to the drawing board pretty early on to plan for the seismic boost of tourists. The challenges were obvious enough that the town and county created a special coordinator’s position just to address the event’s anticipated drawing power and consequent logistical challenges.

Kathryn Brackenridge, eclipse coordinator for Jackson and Teton County, noted the difficulty in trying to accurately estimate total visitation, but acknowledged that a large number of people could congregate in the area. Local lodging facilities have long been booked. But

“It’s a pretty visceral experience, a sixty-mile wide shadow careening across the landscape.” the Bridger-Teton National Forest is making available nine additional temporary RV camping sites and nine field stations. “A lot of people will be pulling over and plopping down too,” she pointed out.

That makes planning critical. The caprice of mountain weather also underscores the need for a “Plan A”—and even a “Plan B.” “This is one of the first solar eclipses of its scope in the digital age, where you have social media and instant messaging driving decision making at the last minute,” said Brackenridge.

“If you are making a game-time decision, it is vital to educate oneself about the weather and the transit obstacles,” she continued.

Aaron Linsdau, author of Jackson Hole Total Eclipse Guide, also weighed in about planning for the sky-high celebration. “Do not

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be caught in the Jackson area without some sort of plan. The whole area brims with people on a normal summer day. August 21 will be anything but a normal day.”

“We are anticipating Internet and cell service to possibly go out because of so much usage—everyone is going to be streaming,” Brackenridge said. She recommends text messaging rather than calling because it will get through.

So just where is the best place for sun gazing? There’s already a host of public viewing events where people can experience the eclipse in a communal way, but miles of mountain country allow for many other options.

“Some say the higher ground is great because you can actually see the impact of the shadow on the landscape,” stated Brackenridge. “It’s a pretty visceral experience, a sixtymile wide shadow careening across the landscape.”

Jackson Hole, Snow King, and Grand Targhee mountain resorts will be utilizing their lifts to transport viewers to summits. But tickets may be sold out before the event.

One vantage point not likely to be sold out: Wyoming mountaintops—some easy to access, some not so much. Beginning a hike to a summit or remote location in pre-dawn may provide a full-day eclipse experience. Take a picnic basket—and don’t forget the bear spray.

Throngs of viewers could pose a huge safety concern. Search and Rescue will be on high alert and Grand Teton National Park will amp up staffing with 75 additional rangers.

Brackenridge worries about “people going out there and breaking their ankles. Although it’s nothing too severe, it requires manpower to deal with the evacuation.” A reminder: 911 is for real emergencies.

Expect roads and highways to be jammed with traffic. Parking lots will be overflowing; arrive well before the darkness begins to cover the landscape. “For an event of this magnitude, you’ll need to find your parking space early,” said Linsdau. “Think four a.m.”

ViEwinG SafETy One of the most important considerations is viewing safety. Simply put: it is not dangerous to look directly at the sun without proper eye protection. Normal sunglasses ARE NOT safe. Blindness may be the result. Special “Eclipse Glasses” will be widely available. Safe viewing through telescopes or binoculars requires special solar filters.

Only during totality is it safe to view the sun directly.

PHoToGraPHy For those planning on photographing the sun show, it is imperative that proper filters be used; otherwise, damage will occur to the camera’s sensor—the sun can even melt the inside of the camera.

Here, too, planning is vital. It is “important to practice photographing before the actual phenomenon arrives,” Linsdau points out in his book. “Rehearse over and over.”

For current information and maps visit: tetoneclipse.com, wyomingstargazing.org, greatamericaneclipse.com, eclipse2017.nasa.gov.

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N HOLE

The Moulton Barns

The perfect setting links two landmarks. wo of the most photographed structures in the U.S., the Moulton Barns just north of Jackson, have become almost as iconic as the majestic mountains towering in the distance. Reminders of Mormon pioneer homesteaders who settled near Blacktail Butte around the turn of the 19th Century, the revered aged wood buildings rest on landscape in another American icon, Grand Teton National Park.

Those first homesteaders arrived in Jackson Hole from Idaho and established a community that came to be known as “Mormon Row.” Settlers Thomas Alma (T.A.) and John Moulton built the barns on adjacent homesteads between 1912 and 1945.

John Moulton’s grandson, Jim, explained that John filed his claim when he was only 16 or 17, demonstrating the enterprising spirit typical of early homesteaders. “You had to be twenty one, so he lied about his age, but back then nobody cared,” Jim said, chuckling. “So he came back when he was twenty one and proved up on it” (officially took possession of the tract).

Today the barns and a few houses are about all that remain of the community that thrived for nearly 100 years along Mormon Row. But memories linger, especially for John Moulton’s grandson. Born at Jackson’s old St. John’s Hospital in 1954, Jim was one of 6 children raised at the north end of Mormon Row. They all went to school in a one-room schoolhouse down the road and attended the LDS church next door. That old church structure now functions as the saloon at the Calico Restaurant on the Teton Village Road.

Along with his wife Suzan and children Reed, Sara, TJ, and Chase, they were among the last families to inhabit Mormon Row. “We had about a one-hundred cow-calf operation and raised really good cattle,” recalled Jim. “My dad and Roy Chambers (a neighbor to the south) had good bulls and good Herefords.

People look at the beauty of the barns, and what people don’t understand is that real people grew up there. Real people scraped out a hardscrabble living. Real people lived and died out there. Back then it was harsh—it was without mercy.

“For most people back then it was totally about survival,” he continued.“You had to get your wood in, you had to get the hay in, you had to get your cattle fed—you had to get things done.”

Mother Nature in Jackson Hole can be demanding. She was no less so during his family’s time on Mormon Row. “Winter didn’t wait for us, it came no matter what,” Jim explained. “It was long and hard and you had to survive; you had elk in the freezer and elk hanging in the barn.

“People look at the beauty of the barns, and what people don’t understand is that real people grew up there. Real people scraped out a hardscrabble living. Real people had their dreams out there, real people sacrificed. Real people lived and died out there. It was all about surviving.

Back then it was harsh—it was without mercy.”

Still, life below the Tetons was not without its appeal.

“It is beautiful, beautiful country, and I think they appreciated that.

They liked it and were enamored by the beauty—but they were working ranchers,” Jim pointed out.

“When I was in my late teens, I talked about going climbing,” he recalled. “My father asked, ‘Why you doing that, why you need to go climb-

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Photo Courtisy Sue Ernisse and the Pounian Family

T

By Bob Woodall

Barn builders John Moulton and wife Bartha ing? You haven’t lost anything up there you need to go find.’” And his dad wouldn’t stand for rodeo. There wasn’t enough time in the summer for rodeo, it took too much energy. “We had to get ready for winter,” he said.

But winter provided some relief in a way. “In winter we could relax, it gave a break from the tedium,” Jim said. “I saw blizzards as a child where we were literally snowed in for two weeks at a time, snow that came to the top of the house with fifteen-foot snow banks.”

And there was an upside to those epic snowfalls, too.

“Most of us grew up skiing on Snow King. When we couldn’t get to town, there was a little fifty-foot bump of a hill next to the Chambers’ homestead. We would ski it all day long,” he remembered.

“I have been looking at the Grand Tetons all my life,” Jim mused. “So many sunrises, so many sunsets—some so shockingly beautiful.” His wife Suzan, Jim added, “always refered to them as my mistress because they are such a big part of our life.”

Folks today are also taken with the beauty of the old Moulton barns.

Recently, someone photographed the northernmost barn, posted its photo on Facebook, and compared its roof line to the exact details of the Teton horizon.

“You just go, ‘Wow! You think someone actually gave a crap when they built the barn that it matched architecturally with the Tetons?’” Jim asked, rhetorically. “It was just happenstance. People read too much into it.”

Jim, too, often takes photos of his barn, sometimes while a tourist happens to be doing the same thing. He related one incident that caught him a bit off guard.

“This lady turns to us and says, ‘They faced this the wrong way; this barn is totally oriented the wrong direction.’ I said, ‘Really? And Why?’ She went into an explanation of how they were the wrong angle for mountains.

“I was beginning to get mad. Here she was insulting what my granddad did—haven’t heard too many other people complaining about the way they are situated out there.”

“I had to literally grab his arm and pull him back,” said Suzan, laughing.

“Jokingly I have said this quite a bit: A lot of people have their claim to fame, and mine is being in association with one of the most famous barns in the world,” said Jim. “What my granddad built is something to be proud of. And it’s a signature of the valley that is a big part, almost in a way that the Tetons are an icon.”

Again, Jim’s association with the barn and Mormon Row is more than just a conversation starter. “As an outfitter and a guest ranch manager,

Bob Woodall photo

The John Moulton Barn sits at the north end of Mormon Row in Grand Teton National Park.

I take people there. Some people recognize the name and ask, ‘Do you have anything to do with the barns?’ I go, ‘Yeaaaah.’”

Jim’s grandfather sold the ranch to the park in the late ‘50s but had retained a lifetime lease. After his grandfather’s death in 1991—at nearly 104—Jim and his family moved out in 1996, capping nearly a century of Moultons living on Mormon Row. “My family, my children, are the last kids, the last family, the last kids that lived there, the last kids that got out of the bus. The last kids that started their life there are my children,” Jim added proudly.

Two are still living in the valley and are very much part of the Jackson Hole culture. “They are making it happen here, they are making their Jackson Hole dream—not unlike we did then,” said Jim. “Making a living here they are a continuing story of the generations, this continuation of family in the valley.”

The Moulton Barns are still a gold mine—for photographers. For Jim? “If I had anything I wish I could change,” he joked, “it would be that I had a camera fee or a penny for every picture taken—then I could live the lifestyle I want to.”

For more history and photographs of the Moulton Barns go to: bestofthetetons.com/2014/04/08/the-moulton-barns-1963-1965/

digging for dollars The Moulton Barns and homesite still lie comfortably close to another of the valley’s icons, the Snake River. Today the Snake, parts of it Blue Ribbon waters, attract boatloads of fly fishers, especially within park boundaries. Years ago, the Snake’s prized cutthroats and whitefish often yielded to something more organic than artificial flies, though: worms. The Moultons, ever enterprising in the valley’s struggle to make ends meet, took notice.

Jim revealed a family venture that, quite naturally, made sense.

“One of the ways we made extra money,” he revealed, “we also became a worm farm—the worm providers for the fishermen, primarly in Grand Teton. Dad would spread the cow manure along the irrigation ditches and the worms flourished. Every other night we were digging two hundred to three hundred dozen worms, that were sold over at Moose tackle shop.

“We dug worms for years and years and years. It bought us our first color TV. It bought a camper, it bought a movie camera, it bought all the little things that the ranch didn’t have money for. If you were a guest, you dug worms, everybody dug worms.”

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Wild America

Nature thrives in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem

By Bert Raynes

n all too many places on earth, man has altered his pre-existing habitat so drastically that many animal and plant species have vanished.

Extirpated, gone forever. Overall, worldwide, the scene and scenario for wildlife verges on the tragic—innumerable species disappearing each year, each day, far above previous rates

American Bison on the Yellowstone River

of extinction in prehistoric times. Deforestation, desertization, single-crop farming practices, overfishing, human overpopulation, and pollution are responsible.

Some surviving species were forced to move elsewhere, if they could, or to modify their behavior to exist—or coexist—within the confines or interstices of their new situation.

Come to that, man increasingly is forced to do

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the same. Yet our understanding of and compassion for wildlife’s welfare appear to be declining at an accelerating rate.

Thankfully, in a few places on the planet, for reasons of enlightened thought and concern, or more likely, a disinterest in them or their habitat, wildlife yet flourish in a relatively natural state. A few places only, despite an increasing body of knowledge which points to the need for there to be very large areas set aside for many animals even to have a chance to exist in something like their prehomoerectus situations.

This is one of those places.

When you visit large parks like Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks, yet buffered from urbanization by surrounding national forests and all together making up the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, take every opportunity to absorb all the scenery you can lay your eyes on: endless vistas and small scenes, bear and vole and squirrel and bison; vast expanses not altered by man; wild animals going about their lives largely as they have been doing for thousands of years, behaving in response to instincts which evolved over millions of years (modified to various extents by the presence of post-industrial man during the last two centuries).

Preserving what you see hasn’t been easy.

By 1872, when America created Yellowstone as the world’s first national park, much of the continental eastern United States had been altered, or defiled. Forests had been denuded,

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soil erosion in the plains was deliberate and would become deadly, animal and fish species were or would shortly be decimated.

A sorry record, which extends into today, and not compensated for by a slow-growing awareness of the absolute need for conservation and protection. Look ye while ye may at the wonders of Greater Yellowstone and reflect that it could be lost, as it is always under attack, always coveted for other uses. You might want to ally yourself with some of the organizations that devote their energies to retaining or reclaiming some of the continent’s natural resources and treasures.

While it’s not possible to return even the Yellowstone region to prehistoric splendor, there have been steps taken in that direction.

The wolf was absent for most of the 20th century, man having eliminated and subsequently reintroduced the region’s top predator. Its return is to be celebrated. The wolf belongs in Yellowstone, along with grizzly and black bears, the largest herds of elk in North America, bighorn sheep, and over 60 other mammal species.

It’s now recognized that biodiversity requires large areas in which to behave normally: even large parks like Yellowstone aren’t guarantees for wildlife, or for those who wish to observe wildlife literally wild...especially when these parks are crocheted with roadways and trails. The effects of a road, a visitors’ center, or campgrounds are manifold. Foot or horse trails are major dislocations. Isolation is, except for the exceptionally hardy, lost.

Ah, but what is left is splendid; you can wait until you get home to join the conservation movement. Right now, fill your eyes and mind with the shining mountains, the snow-capped peaks, the blue skies, the play of light and distance in the forests, the animals braving the season. Wild animals in the Greater Yellow-

Bob Woodall photos

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stone Ecosystem require luck, skill, and good instincts and genes.

So, look ye while ye may. And you still can, in the GYE, see various animals responding primarily to long-held instinctual behavior and relatively little to modern man and his many implements. It’s important and rewarding to observe them.

Bert Raynes writes a weekly column in the Jackson Hole News & Guide. He has penned five publications covering the birds and animals of Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks.

His latest book, Winter Wings, joins Valley So Sweet and Curmudgeon Chronicles in receiving well-deserved, wide acclaim.

Visit the

Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center Few mammals can match the sure-footedness of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep. Powerful and nimble, even at 250 to 300 pounds, they tread crags and rocky trails like no other creatures on earth.

But the survival of these magnificent animals is threatened all over the West because of disease and habitat loss. Fortunately, their beauty and tenuous existence are elegantly showcased in the National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center, right in downtown Dubois, Wyoming.

Wyoming’s winner of the 2014 Destination/Attraction of the Year, the center’s appeal is well founded.

Stunning, full-size bighorns – set amidst their natural flora and geology – lend a breathtaking realism to the center’s displays. Photos and hands-on exhibits draw visitors into the majestic landscape of these magnificent animals. Other dioramas showcase grizzly bears, marmots, wolves, mountain lions, and a host of smaller intriguing wildlife. Set aside some time for the kids to take in the center’s engaging interactive displays and information.

Above: In the center of the Teton Range, the Grand Teton towers 7,000 feet above Jackson Hole. At 13,770, it is the second tallest peak in Wyoming. The lakes Taggart, Bradley, Jenny, String, Leigh and Jackson dot the front of the range.

Celebrating its 23rd year, the center now provides young naturalists a way to lead the grownups around. A printable self-guided tour can be accessed from the center’s website to direct visitors along a colorful seven-mile stretch of bighorn habitat just outside of town.

Dubois, of course, hosts this interpretive center for good reason: nearby Whiskey Mountain is home to the largest wintering herd (around 900) of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep in North America. During fall and winter, the staff offers fully guided tours into the snowy landscape. The center’s website also links to recent informative articles in local and national publications about bighorn sheep biology and habitat.

Located right on the main street of Dubois (Wyoming Highway 287/26), the National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center is open daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. during the summer. Admission fees are $4 for adults, $2 for children, and is free for kids under 8.

For more information, call toll free (888) 209-2795, go on-line at www.bighorn.org, or e-mail the center at info@bighorn.org.

— Mike Calabrese

National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center In beautiful Dubois, Wyoming Wildlife Exhibits • Gift Shop Guided Tours

Home to one of the largest herds of Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep in North America & a short 55-mile drive from Teton National Park !

Summer Hours: 9am-6pm 10 Bighorn Lane • Dubois, WY 307-455-3429 www/bighorn.org photo courtesy of Jeff Vanuga

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Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem Behold the richest habitat in the lower 48 Photography by Taylor Phillips & Josh Metten, Eco Tour Adventures

Encompassing nearly 35,000 square miles, the

magnificent Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem

(GYE) is one of the largest nearly intact temper-

ate-zone ecosystems on earth. With Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks at its core, the GYE’s diversity and natural wealth are vast.

Punctuated by the Grand Teton, which soars 7,000 feet above the Jackson Hole valley floor, the GYE encompasses the largest collection of hydrothermal features on earth, including about half the world’s active geysers. It sprawls across three states, and is home to the two national parks, portions of five national forests, three national wildlife refuges, and other public, tribal, and private lands.

This habitat is a vital sanctuary for the largest concentration of wildlife in the lower 48 states, among them the largest free-roaming, wild bison herd in the United States, one of the largest elk herds in North America, and one of the few grizzly bear populations in the contiguous United States.

With so much to take in, it can be a little overwhelming for visitors with a limited amount of time for their visit. One way to

Top: A Grizzly Bear's nasal mucosa is 100 times the size of human’s. Because of its large nose, the grizzly’s sense of smell is perhaps seven times keener than a bloodhound’s.

Above: Widely regarded as symbols of the wild, wolves were reintroduced into Yellowstone National Park in 1995 after a 60-year absence. They are now found across the western U.S., a conservation success story. Pairs form in winter as breeding is occurring.

Right: Just hours after birth, moose calves learn to walk and follow their mothers closely. Rather than hiding from predators, they rely on mom to protect them from danger. Be sure to give moose, especially females with calves, plenty of space.

They can be dangerous.

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maximize that time and enhance the experience is to hook up with a professional naturalist for a tour of the parks.

“People are looking for knowledge,” said Taylor Phillips, owner of Eco Tour Adventures. “With such a rich amount of cultural and natural history there is much to know of and share about this area.”

The GYE’s natural history now includes growing political controversy as well. Because of issues surrounding wolf and grizzly bear management, forest fire management, and political decision-making, “it is important that we provide both sides of the story and let people decide for themselves,” said Phillips.

Taylor’s enthusiasm for knowledge is just one reason that wildlife/eco-tours have become a popular activity for folks looking to explore their national parks. “I want them to understand the uniqueness of this area,” he said.

Phillips studied environmental science and philosophy in college and did his thesis on eco-tourism.

While on a summer road trip in 2002, he found Jackson Hole and decided to stick around, establishing his company in 2008.

“Our main focus is to maximize our guests’ time in the parks,” he said. “Grand Teton National Park is known for its wildlife and stunning scenery, but it is so much more. We enjoy educating our guests on the region’s wildlife, history, and geology as we take them to the great wildlife hotspots.

“In Yellowstone we go to favorite thermal spots and do our best to keep away from the crush of crowds. We keep track of eruption schedules, so no

Top: Where the buffalo roam. Grand Teton and Yellowstone National parks are home to over 4,000 bison, some of the largest remaining wild herds left on earth.

Above: American Avocets are found in marshy areas across the western U.S. These beautiful shorebirds are very protective of their nesting habitat and have even been documented attacking larger predatory birds like Northern Harriers and Ravens.

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This habitat is a vital sanctuary for the largest concentration of wildlife in the lower 48 states, among them the largest free-roaming, wild bison herd in the United States, one of the largest elk herds in North America, and one of the few grizzly bear populations in the contiguous United States.

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Top: After shaking off from a fall rainstorm, this juvenile great horned owl stared down the camera before folding its wings.

Above: Look carefully in the sagebrush flats of Grand Teton or Yellowstone National parks and you may spot a badger! These muscle-bound weasels use large, strong digging claws to hunt and dig up small rodents that live in underground burrows.

Right: Fall in Jackson Hole brings early snow flurries and bull moose in the rut or mating season. Look for these giants along rivers in Grand Teton National Park.

waiting around,” Phillips pointed out.

On the 12-hour day trips through the world’s first national park, he said, “there is more focus on geology and the ecosystem rather than wildlife.

“We want to connect our guests to these incredible national parks, the larger ecosystem, and the natural world in general. Our programs can be life changing. We love to serve up the best spots for viewing wildlife and the stunning landscape that our guides know and cherish.”

All of their guides have backgrounds in the sciences and love sharing their knowledge.

Guide Verlin Stephens, a former member of the Interagency Grizzly Bear Recovery Team, likes to ask his group “What are you wanting to see?”

He added, “I like them to ask questions—you ask questions and you will learn more. I treat the trip like a joint venture and a learning experience for both of us.”

The outfit’s four safari-style vehicles feature pop-up roof hatches so guests can stand, observe, and photograph wildlife from a safe location. “This also disturbs wildlife a lot less than if we were outside the vehicle,” said Phillips, “and everyone gets a great view. We also get out of the vehicle, take some short hikes.” Binoculars and spotting scopes are available for guests to use, too. Sliding windows on the vehicle allow for viewing and photographing without having to peer through glass.

Half- and full-day tours include transportation from the guest’s lodging. Half-day sunrise trips include a light breakfast and hot and cold beverages. Sunset trips count beverages and snacks as amenities. Full-day trips include lunches, served either in the field or an indoor lodge. Multi-day tours through Yellowstone are also offered. If a guest wants to set up a tripod and wait for the perfect picture, Phillips suggests booking a private photo tour with his company.

Top: Highly social animals, river otters work together to find food and protect themselves from potential predators. They reinforce bonds with social grooming and frequent vocal communications.

Above: In summertime, red foxes and other mammals shed thick winter coats, slimming down into summer fur which will keep them warm but also allow for comfortable movement under the hot summer sun.

— Bob Woodall 2 0 1 7 G r a n d T e To n & Ye l lo w s To n e a d v e n T u r e G u i d e

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Highlighting spectacular works for 30 years

Museum of Wildlife Art is nothing less than a gem, inside and Tout.he ANational day spent at this spectacular showcase will craft colorful memories

By Mike Calabrese

© Photo by Joel Sartore/National Geographic Photo Ark

Photos courtesy National Museum of Wildlife Art

every bit the equal of those prompted by the landscape surrounding it.

From top right: A collection of John Gould’s avian artworks feature hummingbirds from around the world.

With a stunning backdrop of the National Elk Refuge and Gros Ventre Mountain Range, Bart Walter's "Wapiti Trail" sculpture welcomes guests at the entrance to the NMWA just north of Jackson.

The Plein Air Fest will put 50 artists directly on location as they create their art.

A Florida Panther (Puma concolor coryi) was photographed at Lowry Park Zoo, Tampa, Florida, as part of the National Geographic Photo Ark, natgeophotoark.org.

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John Gould, Campylopterus delattrei: De Lattre's sabre-wing, c. 1855. Gift of John R. Moore.

National Museum of Wildlife Art

The rugged stone-covered edifice, only minutes from downtown Jackson, rests on the butte just above the National Elk Refuge, its iconic trout fishery, Flat Creek, coursing along the savannah-like tract.

Dominating the view from the museum’s perfect vantage point is the majestic Sleeping Indian Mountain, its unmistakable profile compelling visitors to reflect on Jackson Hole’s rich geology and history.

The stunning complex itself has become something of a landmark, having been recently awarded re-accreditation by the prestigious American Alliance of Museums. Considered the “ultimate mark of distinction in the museum field,” only three percent of the country’s 33,000 museums have garnered this laurel.

Not bad as the National Museum of Wildlife Art this summer celebrates its 30th anniversary.

The museum’s 14 jaw-dropping galleries deserve a thoughtful, unhurried visit.

A magnificent treasure chest of over 5,000 catalogued items, showcased to perfection and representing animals from around the world, stuns and engages the visitor. Families will struggle to find a more rewarding encounter with nature’s culture than the one offered here. Immediately outside the museum’s groundbreaking suite of wings, a sculpture trail, three-quarters of a mile in length and graced with inspiring works, begs to be wandered along. The trail and artists’ creations are set amidst a natural world equally inspiring.

Two notable exhibits mark this summer’s additional offerings. First, an electrifying assortment of pulsing screen prints by Andy Warhol illuminates some of the planet’s endangered species. Warhol, always a red-hot force in the art world, recognized early the need to shed light on nature’s conservation issues.

The Herculean efforts of Joel Sartore to “photograph every animal in captivity in the world” are brought to light during this summer’s second major exhibit: national Geographic Photo ark: Photographs by Joel Sartore. Sartore, who employs studio-like portraits, has already captured the images of 6,000 species as he makes his way toward a goal of 12,000.

Elsewhere in the spacious interior, breathtaking works chronicle the history of wildlife art from 2500 B.C. to the present. For some visitors, a personal tour with one of the museum’s knowledgeable volunteers could take a bit of the pressure off Mom and Dad. Let the docents come up with answers to the young ones’ questions prompted by the palette of works among the galleries. Adults, meanwhile, can peer into the depths of art through some of the giants. Among them, Charles M. Russell, Carl Rungius, Albert Bierstadt, and John Clymer.

Laden with low-tech and high-tech interactive attractions, the museum’s award-winning interpretation makes the art relevant to all. The Children’s Discovery Center will put kids on the road to art and nature’s essential part in life.

This kids’ world-within-a-world is proof that museum going, like travel itself, can enrich the family scrapbook.

A day at NMWA could whet more than an appetite for art, though. The museum’s new dining experience, aptly tabbed “Palate,” boasts seating inside and out, and tempts families to dine, relax, and refuel. The restaurant’s views across a valley that is at times home to elk, deer, antelope, bear, coyotes, wolves, and a vibrant trout stream should spark plenty of discussion.

The museum may be the perfect stop before—or after—venturing into a region that continues to inspire artists and visitors alike.

If there’s a more engaging family refuge than the National Museum of Wildlife Art, we haven’t found it. As one gratified father remarked of his visit to the complex: “This is the happiest my kids have been all week.”

For more information, go online at WildlifeArt.org or call 307-733-5771.

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Mike Calabrese is a writer, editor, and musician living in Jackson Hole.

Jackson

WYOMING 83001

By Mike Calabrese

I

gnoring the call of Jackson Hole’s landscape is darn near impossible. Occasionally, though, recreationists have to turn things outside in. Those yearning for a more urban fix in these cool digs will find plenty to do. Here’s the inside scoop: Teton County/Jackson Recreation Center Open all year, this indoor refuge, located two blocks from the Jackson Town Square, is home to a 25-yard lap pool, a therapy pool, a splash pool, a leisure pool, a water slide, and a hot tub. Buckets of equipment can be rented for a field full of recreation (softball and flag football equipment, horseshoes, volleyball, croquet, Bocce ball, broomball), even an onsite birthday party facility. Online at tetonparksandrec.org or call 307-739-9025.

Below: Community Pathways provide a safe and fun route for non-motorized travel and recreation.

Wade McKoy photo; Bicyclist: Dustin Varga

Top: Jackson, a mountain town as unique as it is idyllic.

Bob Woodall

Jackson Town Square Dedicated in 1934, this place is pretty hip for a square. The charming park is bounded by wood fences and is home to iconic elk antler arches and Wyoming’s famous bucking bronc and rider.

You’ll be hard pressed to pass up a photo op underneath those arches. The park, its shade trees, lawn, and benches, ride sidesaddle to the town stagecoach stop, the nightly shootout, and weekly summer farmers’ markets. Jackson elected one of the nation’s first all-women town councils back in 1920. Fitting, then, that nearly 500 of the 1,000 participants

JackSon Town SquarE: DEDicaTED in 1934, THiS PlacE iS PrETTy HiP for a SquarE. THE cHarminG Park iS bounDED by wooD fEncES anD iS HomE To iconic Elk anTlEr arcHES anD wyominG’S famouS buckinG bronc anD riDEr. of Jackson’s Women’s March gathered here on January 21 this year.

Jackson Hole Museum Another valley treasure chest worth exploring—or musing in.

Ken Burns himself took advantage of its trove for his epic, “The National Parks: America’s Best Idea.” The valley’s bucolic ranchlands, charming town, and village areas belie the often brutal demands Mother Nature pressed on Jackson Hole’s earliest Native Americans, settlers, and vistors. The museum offers free town walking tours that depart from the Town Square. (See, we told you it was hip!) A glance at the museum’s online interactive historical atlas of Jackson Hole reveals notable historical sites of dude ranching, homesteading, the National Elk Refuge, archaeology. Books and photos available for the more traditionally curious. Online at jacksonhole.org.

Stagecoach ride There’s a stage leaving town—well, in this case, the Town Square, and everyone wants to be on it. A true-to life, colorfully restored conveyance, complete with working cowpoke driver, this rig gives free rein to everyone’s enthusiasm for the Old West.

Hauled by horses that know their way around the town square, passengers get a feel for Old West travel—minus the dust, dirt, and duration of overland travel more notable for its challenges than comfort. Drop by the Stage Stop at Jackson’s main street intersection for details about rides. No need to ride shotgun; the locals are pretty friendly.

Shootout If there’s strength in numbers, the Jackson Hole Shootout remains pretty much unassailable. As many as 4 million folks have witnessed this piece of street theatre over its 60-year run. Don’t plan on tying up your horse next to the gunfight, though. That parcel is already claimed by the Town Square Stage Coach. Settle yourself and your compadres downtown before the first shots are fired at 6:15. Big attitude by the bad guys, sterling character by the good ones, and flashy costuming from all. Plenty of noise as the villains are laid to rest after being given fair warning.

Evenings, except Sundays, so the outlaws can reflect on their evil ways.

People’s Market It’s what the people want: food that’s good, clean, and fair. Add ‘fun’ to that and the People’s Market is off and running. Last summer, 4,000-5,000 folks showed up for these festive gatherings, held Wednesday evenings from 4-7 at the base of Snow King, the Town Hill. Yep, it’s about food here, and also about food producers, music, micro brews, the nearby park and climbing wall, and a market that’s family friendly. June 14 through Sept. 20, 4-6. More than 50 vendors, local and regional, source food for the People’s Market.

Bring your own glass to help support the market’s zero-waste pilot program.

Jackson Hole Live The valley’s short summer season demands optimal adventures in the

HÄAGEN-DAZS ICE CREAM

PINKY G’s PIZZERIA

All natural ice cream (Gluten-free flavors available). Non-dairy sorbet, huckleberry shakes, smoothies, sundaes, shakes, espresso drinks, ice cream cakes. We make our own waffle cones!

Locally owned and operated.

Since 1993, southeast corner of the Jackson Town Square.

Cozy up at Pinky G’ s Pizzeria! The local favorite, Voted Best Pizza in Jackson Hole 6 years in a row. Located ½ block off Town Square. Seen on Guy Fieri’ s Diners, Dr ive -Ins and Di ve s. Try the menu favorite, The Abe Froman, with Italian sausage, buffalo mozzarella, and basil. With 20 beers to choose from, full bar & live music, we are sure to keep you entertained.

Jackson’ s only place OPEN LATE!

90 E. Broadway | Jackson 307.739.1880 www.haagendazs.com

The widest selection of toys in the area especially Lego, Melissa & Doug, and plush animals.

10 E. Broadway South Side of Jackson Town Square Located Inside of Lee's Tees 307-200-6066

50 W. Broadway | Jackson 307.734.PINK (7465) www.pinkygs.com

Thirsty after an exhilarating day in beautiful Jackson Hole? Stop by Westside Wine & Spirits in the Aspens on Teton Village Road for a savory wine, scrumptious beer, or tempting spirit.

Our knowledgable staff is here everyday from 10 am-9 pm.

At the Aspens | Teton Village Road 307.733.5038 www.westsidewinejh.com

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landscape and culture scape. Jackson Hole Live provides both. Four gatherings, loaded with fun, food, and top-shelf music acts, unfold at the foot of Snow King Resort, home of Jackson’s revered town ski area. Past music acts include Galactic, Karl Denson’s Tiny Universe, Steve Earle, Trombone Shorty, the Young Dubliners, and Grammy winners “Steeldrivers.”

A kid zone, complete with hula hoop instruction, face painting, strider bike zone, and a mountain’s worth of terra firma guarantee quality family time, too. An array of food from the valley’s rich menu of eateries will fuel happy concert-goers. Events begin at 5:30.

Jackson Hole Children’s Museum Through the eyes of a child…. and those eyes will be wide open at this center of wonder. Perhaps the valley’s most unique attraction for kids, there’s nothing childish about the brilliance behind the museum’s summer camp offerings and the facility’s engaging exhibits.

Open year-round, its summer programs transport kids into the worlds of water, land, and air.

A sampling of the week-long programs proves

THE VallEy’S SHorT SummEr SEaSon DEmanDS oPTimal aDVEnTurES in THE lanDScaPE anD culTurE ScaPE.

riES ProViDES boTH. it: Flight Camp, Water Power, Wild Art and Human Nature, and Dwellings, Dens, and Design. A first-rate staff oversees the kids at the museum and on adventures into the valley’s wonders. Weekly camp adventures cost $265.

For more info go to jhchildrensmuseum.org.

Farmers’ Market Jackson Hole’s growing season may be limited, but not its willingness to celebrate the joy of pure, real food. Weekly farmers’ markets, held on that hip square in the center of town, draw as many locals as visitors. More than 40 local venders ply their prized farm-fresh products and homemade baked delights beneath the iconic elk antler arches as live music and the Chef of the Week help feed the festive feeling of shoppers. This homegrown enterprise has raised over $200,000 for local non-profits since it began 16 years ago.

Held 8-noon each Saturday beginning July 4, the season runs through the third Saturday in September.

From top: At Hole Bowl, patrons can roll, dine, and hydrate.

The Quick Draw contest on the Jackson Town Square, just one event from the Fall Arts Festival’s palette.

The Farmer’s Market on the Jackson Town Square has come to define Saturdays for visitors and locals alike.

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Bob Woodall (1)

frEE ouTDoor concErT SE-

Wade McKoy (2); Bowler: Laura Quinlavin

THE “JackSon HolE liVE”

THE olD wEST iS SHowcaSED in THE JackSon HolE PlayHouSE, a VinTaGE THEaTrE, rESTauranT, anD Saloon JuST off THE Town SquarE. aT HomE in onE of JackSon’S olDEST STrucTurES, THiS locally ownED EnTErPriSE SErVES uP buSHElS of fun, fooD, anD liVE muSic for THE EnTirE family.

Hole Bowl An entertainment option right up everyone’s alley—The Hole Bowl.

Ten lanes, 10 big screen TVs, food and drink to please anyone, even private lanes for parties! A boutique bowling experience with none of the pretense. Here it’s all about the fun. Jackson’s weather can turn on a dime but those outdoor adventures needn’t be rained or snowed out. Cool off, warm up, hit your stride on these first-class alleys, or try your hand at darts, pool, or in the video arcade. Parents can join the kids on lanes or settle into a couch while the brood has a blast. Tons of free park-

ing right outside the door.

Jackson Hole Playhouse The Old West has come and gone, but more than enough of it is still showcased in this vintage theatre, restaurant, and saloon just a block off the Jackson town square. At home in one of Jackson’s oldest structures, this locally owned enterprise serves up bushels of fun, food, and live music for the entire family. The only thing vintage about this year’s musical, “The Unsinkable Molly Brown,” is the costuming. The show boasts a stage full of modern talent and production quality. The playhouse’s Saddle Rock Saloon warms up patrons with song, food, and exuberance, and enough energy to light up anyone’s day.

Center for the Arts Nothing fusty about this edifice, home to Jackson’s vibrant cultural community. Its campus, replete with a firsttier performance auditorium, classrooms opening into the worlds of dance, music, theatre, visual and literary arts, and inspiring spaces for celebrations of all types, sets the bar for regional cultural centers. A block off the Jackson town square, the center nourishes cultural appetites year-round, both indoors and outdoors. Something’s always happening here. Like that box of chocolates, you never know what you’ll get. Take a peak by opening the lid online at jhcenterforthearts.org.

Mike Calabrese is a musician, writer, and editor living in Wilson, Wyoming. This is his 36th edition as copy editor for the Adventure Guide.a

ALL TRAILS

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cody WYOMING 82414

By Mike Calabrese

C

American Road, is not for the faint of heart.

Its 10,947-foot crest has led some to call it “the most beautiful highway in America.” The vistas here are unequalled and worth their weight in gold – or camera equipment.

And those are just for starters. Or “leavers,” if you can pull yourself away from the town itself. A stay in Cody is something like a dig for archaeologists, revealing layer

Bob Woodall photos

ody, Wyoming, has a lot to live up to.

Barely an hour from the nation’s foremost national park, the town and its namesake, the nearly mythic Colonel William F. (Buffalo Bill) Cody, hold an undisputed place in the American West’s history.

A visit to this living museum of the Old and New West leaves little doubt about the town’s niche in mountaincountry treasures.

Cody lies at the hub of several breathtaking roadways and affords visitors journeys into scenery unsurpassed anywhere.

For starters: The Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway courses alongside the Shoshone River’s north fork, through the Wapiti (a Native American word for elk) Valley and leads to Yellowstone National Park. Another, The Chief Joseph Scenic Highway, besides recalling one of the most heartbreaking events in U.S. history, winds through the Clark’s Fork region, past Sunlight Basin and to the top of Dead Indian Pass. Neither the area’s history nor the lay of the land can be ignored here. One byway, the Beartooth All-

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Photos from top: Assuming the persona of Colonel William F. “Buffalo Bill” Cody, an actor performs in the nightly shootout just outside of Buffalo Bill’s Irma Hotel.

A waterfall cascades over cliffs along the Beartooth Scenic Highway.

The North Fork of the Shoshone River runs fast through the hoodoos at the Holy City in the spectacular Wapiti Valley.

Cody’s surrounding landscape paints a classic Western picture. upon layer of life’s insights and adventures.

Anglers, bikers, river runners, hunters, hikers, horse enthusiasts—pretty much anyone drawn to the region’s impressive landscape— will all uncover its treasures. The North and South forks of the Shoshone River, their waters roiling and teeming with life, play host to adventurers of all ages and abilities. On the river in kayaks or rafts, or casting a line from a bank or into a pool of cutthroat, water recreationists can put their energies to work sun up to sundown.

Families looking for a quick hike into Buffalo Bill’s beloved country can trek pretty much right from the town environs on the Paul Stock Nature Trail. The pathway parallels the Shoshone River and affords views of Heart, Rattlesnake, Cedar, and Carter mountains.

Cameras and kids will love this jaunt.

THE norTH anD SouTH forkS of THE SHoSHonE riVEr, THEir waTErS roilinG anD TEEminG wiTH lifE, Play HoST To aDVEnTurErS of all aGES. Bikers, too, find quick easy access into trails, again right from town. Beck Lake Park, Red Lakes, and of course the Paul Stock Nature Trail, make crafting a colorful family outing a snap.

The West and horses, both symbols of the region’s landscape, go hand in hand and still tug at travelers to Cody country. Hundreds of miles of trails, full- or half-day rides, or fullblown multi-day pack trips await those chomping at the bit to sit a horse.

As with any healthy community, Cody is proud of its cultural life. But Cody’s palette of offerings has the added benefit of geography and history. The vibrant Buffalo Bill Center of the West, a constantly growing museum, showcases and celebrates the rich, epochal American West. The town’s complex of historical edifices helps preserve Cody’s connection to one of America’s most prized eras, the settling of the West. Buffalo Bill’s Irma Hotel, nearby historic Old Town, Tecumseh’s Old West Village, the Dug Up Cody Museum, to name just a few, should easily keep kids and adults alike wondering about and celebrating history’s eye into the past.

Music, too, is permanently etched into Cody’s living fabric. From cowboy music reviews to chuckwagon dinners with live music, the town bubbles with aural and visual delights.

Cody’s Rendezvous Royale, one of the town’s signature events, is slated for late Sep-

FULL OF WILDNESS. There’s plenty to see and do. Start planning your Cody, Wyoming vacation today.

1-800-393-2639 ~ YELLOWSTONECOUNTRY.ORG

T H E W I L D E S T WAY IN T O Y E L L O W S T O N E

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Wade McKoy tember, a period Westerners consider the most beautiful time of the year.

One Main Street gathering – Boot Scoot ‘N Boogie – draws artists, photographers, sculptors and a festive crowd downtown to sample great food, fashion, and music.

And, finally, there’s the Cody Nite Rodeo, with all its spectacle, drama, and just plain old family fun. Billed as the Rodeo Capitol of the World, Cody’s rodeo season runs nightly from June 1 through August 31.

Sometimes, though, the simple things in life yield the greatest treasures. In a move the town’s founders would be proud of, the chamber of commerce has created an audio tour narrated by hometown boy and former U.S. Senator Alan Simpson. An audio clip and a PDF map, both downloadable from www.codychamber.org, allow visitors with their feet on the ground a relaxing view into Cody’s downtown history. Simpson’s charming, heartfelt narration is the perfect companion for a rewarding walking tour into Cody’s history and its landmarks in town and on the horizons.

The site hosts a colorful compendium of photos, information, and opportunities for the visitor to Cody country. Just right for families planning the trip of a lifetime into the living West – old and new.

Mike Calabrese is a musician, editor, and writer living in Jackson Hole.

From top:

Old Trail Town preserves the historic structures of the early settlers in the Cody region.

Fancy spurs and high boots befit an actor at the nightly shootout in front of the Irma Hotel.

The Calf Scramble at the Cody Nite Rodeo gives kids an opportunity to participate in the rodeo.

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Bob Woodall photos

Buffalo Bill Reservoir, created in the early 1900s with Col. William F. Cody’s support, provides water to farmers, ranchers, and water-sports enthusiasts.

BUFFALO BILL DAM Inspired engineering among the crags

By Mike Calabrese

I

Top: At 325 feet high and 200 feet across, the impressive structure was the tallest of its kind back in its early days, when it was known as the Shoshone Dam.

n the heart of Colonel William F. Cody’s old haunt, in fact right on some of Cody’s own land, one piece of Wyoming reflects nature and man at work together, albeit reluctantly. The Buffalo Bill Dam, fashioned from almost 83,000 cubic yards of concrete over five years, sits on the bed of the Shoshone River, in a canyon carved by nature over millions of years.

A visionary, Buffalo Bill Cody realized that canals would never supply enough water. He gave up on his own plan for an extensive canal system and redirected his efforts and support to the construction of the dam.

Bob Woodall photos

The massive project in the Shoshone Canyon claimed the lives of seven men during its construction, no small cost when compared to the pittance (by today’s standards) of the project’s final bill: $929,658. At 325 feet high and 200 feet across, the impressive structure was the tallest of its kind back in its early days, when it was known as the Shoshone Dam. Water flowed from the dam, providing lifeblood to farmers, ranchers, and residents in the region upon its completion in 1910. More than 93,000 acres of land in the surrounding Bighorn Basin depend on the liquid gold stored behind the dam for irrigation. In 1922, the completion of the Shoshone Power Plant brought the dam to its full potential.

In 1946 the dam was renamed in honor of Buffalo Bill, who immediately reconized the value of the West and perhaps its most coveted element: water. A visionary, Cody realized that canals could never really supply enough water to efficiently nurture settlement and growth in the region. He gave up on his own plan for an extensive canal system and redirected his efforts and support to the construction of the dam.

While still reliably fulfilling its original purpose, the dam today draws thousands of admirers and recreationists as well. Buffalo Bill State Park and the reservoir’s waters play host to anglers, boaters, campers, photographers, windsurfers, hikers, cyclists, and those simply seeking a breathtaking place to comprehend the results of nature’s and man’s combined efforts.

The visitor center is staffed and open from May to September, affording visitors jaw-dropping views of both the dam and the river. Best of all, admission is free! A nonprofit enterprise, the center also offers travelers the chance to grab a cup of coffee while viewing exhibits, enjoying a movie in its theater, or even purchasing tickets to Cody’s Nite Rodeo. The Buffalo Bill Dam is designated a National Civil Engineering Landmark and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

For more information, visit the website at: www.bbdvc.com.

Bottom: Fashioned from almost 83,000 cubic yards of concrete over five years, the dam sits on the bed of the Shoshone River, in a canyon carved by nature over millions of years. The massive project in the Shoshone Canyon claimed the lives of seven men during its construction, no small cost when compared to the pittance (by today’s standards) of the project’s final bill: $929,658.

■ Located 6 miles west of Cody, Wyoming ■ Civil Engineering Landmark ■ Travel Information

■ Self-guided historical

audio tour

■ Fantastic views, exhibits,

Bookstore & Free Wi-Fi

Mike Calabrese is a musician, editor, and writer living in Jackson Hole.

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CODY NITE RODEO

Rodeo Capital of the World

By Joy Ufford

D

ust puffs underfoot as cowgirls and cowboys, little to large, expectant crowds, and rodeo clowns shuffle their boots and silently clutch hats to chests.

broncs, born to buck and born to run; from a glittering rhinestone-studded belt here to some turquoise-fringed leather there. It’s about showing off in a good way, because there’s nothing wrong with living to kick higher, run faster, ride longer, rope quicker.

For bull and bronc riders it’s about getting better scores, keeping a tighter handle on their ride.

For the bulls and broncs, it’s about putting on a show trying to launch cowboys into outer space.

When the sparkling gals tear around on their stretched-out horses, burning turns around three barrels set in sand, speed and style com-

Bob Woodall photos

The setting sun sends shafts of warm light through the evening air and bathes everyone – rider, roper, racer – in a golden glow and sharpens the silhouettes of waiting horses and swaggering bulls.

It’s the most magical moment of the night, when a microphone crackles to life and the in-

spiring lyrics of our national anthem lift hearts around the arena as many sing along with the words that stir them deeply every time –“the land of the free and the home of the brave…”

Rodeo is so thoroughly American now (despite roots in vaquero and ranching traditions of Mexico and old California) that it’s mandatory to see the star-spangled banner grasped in a rodeo queen’s hand as she gallops around the arena on her horse, both showing off for appreciative crowds.

That’s what rodeo is all about, in a way – showing off. From snaky bulls to snorting

Clockwise from above, both pages: Bull riding, one of the most exciting and dangerous events at the rodeo.

Barrel racing is a fast paced event, requiring both a skilled rider and an agile horse.

In the wings, a cowgirl waits her turn in a roping event.

Calf roping demands precision skills atop a horse moving at full gallop.

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Cody is

RODEO! Cody, Wyoming

Rodeo hasn’t changed much over the years, except to get even better – better horses, meaner bulls, faster times, and more money.

mand attention. For the more taciturn ropers, it’s the quick elegance of a rope sailing through the air to catch a steer or calf in a heartbeat or two.

Man, woman, or animal, it’s a great way to be alive. There’s nothing like it.

Rodeo hasn’t changed much over the years, except to get even better – better horses, meaner bulls, faster times, and more money.

But one thing that never changes about rodeo is the contestants’ heartfelt desires to be good, even great, at something they love.

The same can be said of their horses, whether buckin’ broncs or muscled mounts: that good feeling of doing a job well holds as true for the animals as it does for the men and women who ride them and for the rodeo clowns who risk life and limb to entertain the crowd.

Cody has been called the “Rodeo Capital of the World,” and that isn’t stretching things. Talented cowboys and girls come from Peru, Aus-

tralia, Canada – even Japan – to test their skills in Cody Stampede Park vying for big cash and big buckles. And to have an exciting show every night from June 1 to August 31, the rough stock has to buck.

Nightly events include bareback and saddle broncs, calf and team roping, steer wrestling, breakaway roping, barrel racing and bull riding, as well as a calf scramble for the kids. The youngsters are also treated to trick-roping demonstrations, meeting bullfighters, getting their face painted by rodeo clowns and more.

All grandstand seating is covered and affords great views of the arena.

Then there’s the Buffalo Bill Cody Stampede, one of the country’s premiere Fourth of July rodeo celebrations. It’s been playing host to the top cowboys and cowgirls for 98 years and is one of nine stops on the Million Dollar Gold Tour Series. Often called "Cowboy Christmas" by the contestants, it’s one of rodeo's crown jewels. For top cowboys and cowgirls, this is the place to win big purses and ride the best stock.

The Stampede gets kicked off on June 30 at 8 p.m. with the Xtreme Bulls event where 40 of the world’s top bull riders shoot for the title with its $15,000 purse. July 1, 2, and 3 rodeo performances are at 8 p.m., July 4th performance is at 5 p.m.

Cody Nite Rodeo tickets are $20 for adults, $10 for kids 7-12. Cody Stampede tickets range from $20-$25. All can be reserved by calling 1-800-207-0744, going online at codystampederodeo.com.

Joy Ufford lives in Bondurant, where she is a ranch hand and a writer for Pinedale’s Sublette Examiner.

CODY STAMPEDE & XTREME BULLS JUNE 30 – JULY 4 PLUS: PARADES, ART, MUSIC & MORE!

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CODYSTAMPEDERODEO.COM CODYNIGHTRODEO.COM

June | July | August

Every Nite!• 8pm Since 1938

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TREETOP ADVENTURE AT SNOW KING MOUNTAIN Challenge yourself on an elevated journey through the alpine forest.

O

Five courses of varying difficulty ascend through forests of old-growth fir.

Safely tethered, participants travel from platform to platform via a variety of stepways, cables, obstacles, and ladders. The Flying Squirrel kids’ course takes care of the tikes, while zip lines convey all clients from course to course and back to terra firma.

Top: Safety gear allows adventurers confidence through the many and varied routes.

Right: Platforms, ladders, zip line, v-net route. ple do the green course and say, ‘Wow, that was awesome, but I don’t want to do anything harder.”

A few people complete the green course and say, “This is not for me, I’m outta here!” and skip the zip lines altogether.

“That’s a cool thing about it,” said Santelices. “You can approach it with whatever physical ability you’ve got, or restrictions you might have.”

On average, it takes about three hours to complete all the courses.

The Flying Squirrel is for children not yet tall enough to clip in to the safety equipment on the five adult courses.

Fun and excitement are the most evident benefits, but adventurers also walk away with a more primal satisfaction.

“We have a number of goals,” said Santelices. “We’d like people to challenge themselves personally. Challenge some of their fears, challenge what they perceive as their physical limitations, by walking through

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Photos courtesy Snow King Mountain

nce the province of only winged creatures and arboreal mammals, the tall timber of Snow King Mountain is now accessible to recreationists of all ages thanks to the resort’s newest amenity, the Treetop Adventure.

“It’s a more easily accessible version of the Italians’ Via Ferrata,” said Christian Santelices, who, with his wife Sue Muncaster, brought the idea to Snow King. And although only in its second summer, Snow King’s Treetop Adventure has taken a firm hold in Jackson.

Five courses of varying difficulty ascend through forests of oldgrowth fir. Safely tethered, participants travel from platform to platform via a variety of step-ways, cables, obstacles, and ladders. The Flying Squirrel kids’ course takes care of the tikes, while zip lines convey all clients from course to course and back to terra firma.

As with ski trails, difficulty levels are indicated by green, blue, red, and black. Treetop travelers can choose their own comfort level. The green course, for example, starts beginners off with an easy, close-tothe-ground route. They finish with the orange course, a series of zip lines that eventually return users to the ground. The courses progress in difficulty and height and correspond to the color scheme.

“People get through the green course and they’re like, ‘Wow, that was really cool. I’m going to keep going,’” said Santelices. “Other peo-

the trees.”

One particularly inspiring element, the trapeze logs on the kids’ course, provides lots of drama for the guides, and for the parents, too.

“The kids really have to get their head around the trapeze logs,” Santelices said. “We’re coaching them, and the parents are helping, too. As soon as the kids overcome their fear, get through the obstacle and reach the platform, they all cheer and shout, ‘I did it!’ After that they fly through the rest of the course. It’s really fun to watch.”

No doubt about it, the sport of treetop adventures, although popularized in Europe, is now spreading to mountain resort communities throughout the U.S. But it’s safe to bet that Snow King’s Treetop Adventure will move to the top of the hill as the abundance of summer recreational opportunities continues to grow.

— Adventure Guide

ZIPLINE AT SLEEPING GIANT SKI AREA Fly side-by-side at 45 m.p.h. through the rarified air of Yellowstone Country.

Photo courtesy Sleeping Giant Zipline

scape. But zip-lining is now right at home thanks to Wyoming’s Sleeping Giant ski resort.

Sleeping Giant Zipline’s promise of adventure is realized with a series of five “zips.” Covering more than 3,520 feet, the dual lines allow sideby-side whisking above breathtaking terrain at speeds that can reach up to 45 mph. The resort’s aerial course was built to blend in with the scenery

The course blends in with the scenery and promises riders a birds-eye view of the landscape and a totally new perspective.

Dual ziplines introduce a competitive flair to the recreation.

J

ust three miles from the East Gate of Yellowstone National Park at the head of spectacular Wapiti Valley and 50 miles west of Cody, Wyoming, lies Sleeping Giant Ski Area. Rest assured, though, it’s wide-awake in summer, and providing an exciting new twist for park visitors: a zip line over some of the West’s most spectacular landscape.

There may be debate about the zip line’s origins, but there’s no denying its rapidly growing appeal. Some attribute the zip line’s arrival on the recreational vista to a biologist studying the canopy of Costa Rican rainforests. From there it evolved into eco-friendly tourism in that lush land-

and afford riders the opportunity to view the topography from a totally new perspective—from the mountains and the Shoshone National Forest.

Following an orientation, Zip #1 provides a 360-foot test zip over the North Fork of the Shoshone River. “Zippers” then ride the Big Horn Double Chairlift to the top of the main zip-line course. The longest of the four lines is 930 feet, the final line ending atop a 45-foot tower near the main lodge. Adrenaline junkies can take the 35-foot free fall “Quick Drop” to the ground or descend the stairs to complete the adventure.

The zip line is open daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., June 15 to September 15. The tour is led by well-trained guides who work to ensure that the two-hour adventure is safe and exciting.

The full tour runs $75 per person, with a multiple-ride discount of $37.50 available. A single ride on Zip #1 across the Shoshone River costs only $20 and is upgradeable. Reservations are not required but are highly recommended. More info at www.zipsg.com.

— Adventure Guide

ZIPINTO

zipline

YELLOWSTONE

Located just minutes from the East Gate to Yellowstone National Park

Open Daily from June 15th to September 15th

www.ZipSG.com | (307) 587-3125 348 North Fork Highway | Cody, Wyoming 2 0 1 7 G r a n d T e To n & Ye l lo w s To n e a d v e n T u r e G u i d e

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Photos courtesy Snow King Mountain

Snow King Mountain Resort

A launch from Snow King’s summit opens up a regal view for clients.

S now King Ski Area, one of the oldest in North America,

opened in 1939. But Jackson’s “Town Hill” isn’t acting its age as it continues moving forward with the largest capital improvement projects in the mountain’s venerable history.

Recently, Snow King Mountain Resort stepped up its game, tackling a new, state-of-the-art snowmaking system and, for night skiing, the most advanced slope-slide lighting in the world.

“New” is the operative word for summer attractions, too. Snow King now boasts a new longer, chairlift, a new Treetop Adventure park, a new mountain coaster, a new base lodge featuring a restaurant and bar, and new facilities housing its mountain sports school.

Cowboy Coaster Snow King’s most exciting new attraction, a state-of-the-art alpine coaster, is unique for its individually controlled cars on a fixed track. The Cowboy Coaster takes riders 456 feet up the mountain and then lets ‘em loose to twist and turn down through the trees, an exhilarating roller-coaster ride sporting four 360-degree corkscrew turns, some four stories tall.

Treetop Adventure

Built by world-class mountain guides, the Treetop Adventure features almost 100 aerial challenges that snake through the pine forests on Snow

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King Mountain. The enterprise is the dream child of Christian Santelices and his wife Sue Muncaster, who worked with Outplay Adventures to create this fantastical treetop adventure course for kids and adults. Wobbly bridges, Tarzan swings, and zip lines – all with incredible views of the Tetons and the town of Jackson – characterize this standout attraction.

Alpine Slide

On this predecessor to the mountain coaster, riders control the speed of a wheeled sled as gravity does all the heavy work. Flying through twists and turns on one of two side-by-side tracks, pilots slide through banked turns and hairpin thrills at their own pace. It’s an exciting journey down 350 feet over the half-mile track at speeds up to 25 miles per hour.

This ride begins and ends at the base of the Rafferty Lift.

New Chairlift

Reaching 300 feet higher and 1,000 feet further up the mountain, the new fixed-grip quad chair replaces the Rafferty double-chair built in 1978. It provides access to the Cowboy Coaster, the Alpine Slide, and the Treetop Adventure park in summer, while opening up much-needed intermediate ski and snowboard terrain in winter.

Scenic Chairlift Ride

This leisurely ride conveys folks up 1,571 feet to the summit of Snow King Mountain for 360-degree views of the Tetons, the Elk Refuge, and the town of Jackson. On a clear day riders can see all the way to Yellowstone. It’s a fun and easy way for anyone to enjoy the breathtaking

The Cowboy Coaster takes riders 370 feet up the mountain and then lets ‘em loose to twist and turn down through the trees, an exhilarating roller-coaster ride sporting four 360degree corkscrew turns, some four stories tall. natural beauty of Jackson Hole and accesses a self-guided nature trail and many miles of hiking trails.

Bungee Trampoline

The bungee trampoline makes backflips and belly flops possible for kids and adults strapped into a harness attached to bungee towers. Look for it by the Summit chairlift. This is a high-energy activity for kids as young as three years old.

Miniature Golf

An American classic, miniature golf returns to the base of Snow King in a new location this summer. The new 18-hole course constructed by Harris Miniature Golf is sure to be a big hit.

Paragliding

Join Jackson Hole Paragliding for an exhilarating tandem flight with a professional paragliding pilot. This one-of-a-kind experience from the summit of Snow King Mountain will have sky pilots soaring over the town of Jackson, while affording incredible views of the valley, the National Elk Refuge, the Grand Teton, and beyond.

Hiking

Get that heart pumping on the 1.8-mile Summit Trail, ascending 1,571 vertical feet. Gorgeous views of the Tetons, the Elk Refuge and the town of Jackson reveal why locals “Climb the King” on a weekly or even a daily basis!

The Snow King Mountain trail system is also a connector for the Cache Creek and Game Creek trail systems, and very popular with local hikers and cyclists.

Continued next page Photos from top: Teton Boulder Park is a free bouldering park built by a nonprofit, volunteer organization to commemorate the climbing history of the Teton Range.

Bungee trampoline, a high-energy activity for those as young as three.

Photos courtesy Snow King Mountain

Riders on the Alpine Slide fly through twists and turns on one of two side-by-side tracks.

Photos courtesy Snow King Mountain

The Scenic Chairlift is a relaxing way for anyone to enjoy the breathtaking natural beauty of Jackson Hole and it accesses a self-guided nature trail boasting miles of hiking trails.

Above: The scenic chairlift ride conveys folks up 1,571 feet to the summit of Snow King Mountain for 360-degree views of the Tetons, the Elk Refuge, and the town of Jackson.

Left: The Treetop Adventure features almost 100 aerial challenges that snake through the pine forests on Snow King Mountain.

Facing page: The single-track trail system in the Greater Snow King Area can be accessed from the Cache Creek trailhead and from the ski area base.

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Wade McKoy

Biking

The single-track trail system in the Greater Snow King Area is simply some of the best mountain biking in the world. Riders can choose short, medium, long, and even epic routes. Mountain bikes, city bikes, and pathways bikes can be rented at Snow King Mountain Sports in the adjacent Snow King Hotel.

Bouldering

Teton Boulder Park at the base of Snow King boasts two artificial climbing boulders, one for kids and one that is said to be the largest artificial climbing rock in the world. The big one includes realistic cracks and flakes, and both are covered with artificial climbing

holds. In the warm months of summer it isn’t uncommon to see both covered with climbers.

And it’s free! Built by a nonprofit, volunteer organization, it also commemorates the climbing history of the Teton Range.

Big King Pass

Sample Snow King’s array of activities by purchasing this baby and access Treetop Adventure, Cowboy Coaster, Mini-Golf, Alpine Slide, Bungee Trampoline, and the Scenic Chairlift. Fill your day or evenings with this pass into a potpourri of thrills.

People’s Market

Also enlivening the base area is the Peo-

ple’s Market, a kind of farmers’ market/outdoor food enterprise offering locally grown produce as well as baked goods, meat, dairy products, and crafts from some two dozen area vendors.

The People’s Market pitches its tents near the base of the Cougar chairlift every Wednesday, 4-7 p.m., from mid-June to mid-September.

And during the month of August, catch a free movie after the Farmer’s Market closes at dusk by rolling over to the adjacent Snow King Ball Park for a Bike-In Movie. It’s a drive-in, minus the cars. For details, visit www.jhpeoplesmarket.org.

— Adventure Guide

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Jackson Hole Mountain Resort The

ski area famous for Corbet’s Couloir and the Hobacks holds equal excitement for summer visitors. Teton Village bustles year-round with hotels, restaurants, activities galore, and easy access to Grand Teton National Park.

It’s a great base camp during a summer visit to Jackson Hole.

The views from Rendezvous Mountain summit seem to go on forever.

Below: Ride Teewinot lift up and descend lap after lap of downhill singletrack sporting jumps, berms, and structures.

Travelers can bike the downhill mountain biking park, hike on trails of alpine splender, or step it up a notch on the new Via Ferrata. They can fly with a tandem paragliding pilot, ride a horse, go to outdoor concerts, and enroll the kids in various programs.

Teton Village

The Village Commons, a stone amphitheater in the heart of Teton Village, offers shade and seating for hot summer days, a kids’ playground, and a cooling pop-jet fountain. This gathering spot is also home to Concerts on the Commons, a live music series featuring nationally renowned artists every Sunday at 5 p.m. during July and August. Bring a blanket, grab a seat in the natural amphitheater, or just keep dancing and enjoy the music with family and friends. The Commons also includes a playground and pop-jet fountain for kids.

Aerial Tram

Teewinot & Bridger Gondola

In addition to the Aerial Tram, Teewinot chairlift and the Bridger Gondola are open for daytime and evening lift service. Bridger Gondola operates daily from June 10 through September 11, with free evening service nightly. These three operating lifts access a variety of hiking options and link dining stops at Corbet’s Cabin, Off-Piste, and Piste restaurants.

New Via Ferrata, Open Mid Summer Via Ferrata is Jackson Hole Mountain Resort's newest outdoor adventure. This memorable experience takes visitors high above the valley floor, across suspended bridges and along granite walls, all with a knowledgeable guide. It’s perfect for families, groups, and individuals.

Phase I of the Jackson Hole Ferratas was completed last fall on Ranger Ridge and in Casper Bowl, and is America’s first U.S. Forest Service approved Via Ferrata. It presents classic Teton terrain – steep and rugged – through guided ascents.

See page 76 for feature article.

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Wade McKoy photos; Hadley Hammer (top) ; Biker: Andrew Whiteford

This is the ticket to the top of the Tetons! Ride the famous 100-passenger Jackson Hole Aerial Tram from Teton Village to Rendezvous Mountain’s 10,450-foot summit and straddle the Teton Range, daily, 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. The tram whisks passengers a breathtaking 4,139 vertical feet for unbeatable 360-degree views of the Tetons, Snake River, and Grand Teton National Park. During the stunning journey, passengers glide over diverse alpine terrain and sometimes glimpse bears, moose, eagles, mule deer, and other valley wildlife.

Ride the 100-passenger Jackson Hole Aerial Tram from Teton Village to Rendezvous Mountain’s 10,450-foot summit and straddle the Teton Range.

Above: Jackson Hole Aerial Tram glides over Tensleep Bowl.

Right: A worker inspects the numerous routes at the Aerial Ropes Course.

Wade McKoy photos; Hadley Hammer, Monica Purington (hikers)

A hike down Rendezvous Mountain includes pauses to reflect and refuel.

Grand Adventure Pass

The Grand Adventure Pass allows visitors and families all-day, unlimited access to the Aerial Tram ride, the new Drop Tower and Aerial Ropes course, the Bike Park, complete with a lunch voucher. Children receive all that plus two activity tickets good for the bungee trampoline and the climbing wall. The pass offers an economical way for visitors to ex-

plore the passel of activities and dining options in Teton Village.

The Tower

The Tower boasts a 60-foot drop that is sure to add some thrill to anyone’s day. Visitors can take three jumps from varying heights ranging from 30 to 60 feet off the ground. The Tower is located just uphill from the Aerial Ropes Course.

Aerial Ropes Course

This is the opportunity to experience a thrilling elevated adventure in the forest.

Great for kids and adults alike, the Aerial Ropes Course is a network of zip lines, balance beams, cargo nets and other challenges – all suspended 25 feet above the ground.

The course offers a range of features with varying levels of difficulty to allow recreation-

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Because Jackson Hole Mountain Resort shares a boundary with Grand Teton National Park (GTNP), its visitors are ideally placed to experience an incredible natural environment.

A detailed trail-guide book and topographical map are musts for those planning to head into GTNP. All backcountry camping requires a permit and park-approved bear canister, which can be obtained at park ranger stations or visitor centers.

Community Pathways extend from Teton Village to Grand Teton National Park’s boundary and all points south, including Wilson and Jackson.

Tandem Paragliding

ists to stretch their limits, while harnessed safely on belay.

Bungee Trampoline

You might be surprised by how high you can jump (24 feet, safely) or the tricks you achieve with this fun-packed summer activity.

Kids and adults alike enthusiastically flock to the trampolines for all-around family fun.

Climbing Wall

Go “on belay” with the climbing-wall attendant and scale the artificial rock positioned near the base of the Clock Tower. Activity tickets for the bungee trampoline and climbing wall are available at the Bridger Activities Center and Jackson Hole Sports.

Hiking

The tram opens up a hiking experience unlike any other in the Jackson Hole area. Ascending 4,139 feet in just 9 minutes, the tram settles travelers at 10,450 feet amidst the high

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peaks of the Southern Tetons. From there hikers are free to explore a vast trail network connecting Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, Bridger-Teton National Forest, and Grand Teton National Park – all without the 4,139-foot trek to the top.

The beautiful Valley Trail and the Seven Bridges Trail are accessed via Teewinot chairlift. The new Wildflower Trail links Teton Village to the top of the Bridger Gondola. Several scenic-point benches allow the weary or wonderstruck to take in the wildflower-strewn views of the valley while comfortably seated. Two hours should do for this round trip.

From the top of the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram, hikers can wind through the spectacular Tensleep Bowl, traverse The Cirque, and descend the Headwall to end up at The Rendezvous Lodge at Bridger Gondola summit for a signature cocktail and a bite to eat.

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A 20-minute tandem flight with Jackson Hole Paragliding is one of the more memorable ways to descend from the mountain’s summit.

Certified pilots who’ve logged hundreds of hours flying in the Tetons are well equipped to introduce first-timers to the unique experience of tandem paragliding. For more information or to make a reservation, call (307) 739-2626.

Disc Golf

Play 18 holes of Frisbee golf on the free course near the base of the resort. Bring your own discs or buy them at Jackson Hole Sports.

The Yurt

The modern Rock Springs Yurt houses a wood-burning stove, eight bunk beds, a kitchen, and a large dining table. Hike up a wooded 2.5-mile trail from Teton Village into the mountains and enjoy the scenery on an overnight with friends. Expert guides prepare the food, stoke the stove, and even do the dishes!

Bob Woodall

Above:Concerts on the Commons, a free music series held on Sundays in Teton Village.

Wade McKoy

Mountain Biking

In its constant pursuit to expand recreational opportunities, the resort went to work with Gravity Logic to build the best mountain-bike destination in the Tetons. Options abound for every skill level, ranging from novice trails for the uninitiated to advanced trails and jump tracks for daredevils. Sail over tabletops, course around corners, and then catch the Teewinot lift for a five-minute ride back to the top. Join in the fun of Friday Night Bikes from 5 to 7 p.m., June 19 to Sept. 18 (4 to 6 p.m.

9/11, 9/18), complete with discounted lift tickets, two-for-one bike rentals, and happy-hour specials at the Tin Can Cantina. Register for the Chainless Bike Series (July 17, 31; August 14, 28), a unique twist on downhill riding – the shop will remove and reattach your chain for free.

For mountain bike touring – no ticket required – ride seven miles of single-track and traverse the entire lower mountain, from Après Vous to the Hobacks. This route, rolling and winding along incredible ski terrain, was designed and built by year-round resort workers who really know this mountain. Expert cyclists might decide to climb the rocky dirt road to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain and ride the tram back down free of charge (downhill riding is prohibited above the top of the Gondola).

Ask a resort employee for a trail map. Bring your own bike or rent one from Jackson Hole Sports or Teton Village Sports, where you can also purchase lift tickets or inquire about bike lessons and bike-specific camps for children.

The Mountain Bike Camp will expand a child’s horizons with video and photography instruction and fun activities. For pathway cruisers, check out the bike rentals at TVS, Pepi Stiegler Sports, or Jackson Treehouse.

A 20-minute tandem flight with Jackson Hole Paragliding is one of the more memorable ways to descend from the mountain’s summit. Certified pilots who’ve logged hundreds of hours flying in the Tetons are well equipped to introduce this sport to first-timers.

Mountain Sports School

A variety of programs offered by the Mountain Sports School provide lots of options for families with kids. The Kids’ Ranch Day Camp, the Kids’ Adventure Guides, and the Mountain Bike Camp are some of the programs available this summer.

Alive @ Five

The entire family will enjoy these free weekly programs on the Village Commons, from 5 to 5:45 p.m.Tuesday through Friday, June 27 to August 18.

On Tuesdays, The Past Comes Alive@Five with the Jackson Hole Historical Society. Storytellers, mountain music, and folk artists share the best of the historic West. Step back in Jackson time, tap your foot to the Western beat, belly laugh with valley legends or take home an arrowhead created by a master flintknapper.

On Wednesdays, view the Teton Raptor Center’s live hawks, falcons, eagles, and owls while learning about the unique adaptations that make raptors the unmatched hunters of the sky. View birds of prey both at arm’s length and flying free overhead.

On Thursdays, join Wild Things of Wyoming for an interactive and engaging experience about the animals who make Wyoming their home.

On Fridays, special programs are presented, visit the website tetonvillagewy.org for more information.

On-Mountain Dining

The Rendezvous Lodge at Bridger Gondola summit At the 9,095-foot summit of the Bridger Gondola, the Rendezvous Lodge welcomes its patrons with five unique restaurants.

Piste Mountain Bistro & the Deck @ Piste Piste is a commonly used French word meaning “a marked path down a mountain for snow skiing and snowboarding.” For many, a journey along this type of mountain trail is a reward in its own right, but in the Rendezvous Lodge at the top of the Bridger Gondola, it takes on a new meaning. Open daily for lunch, 11:30 2:30; dinner Thursday-Saturday, reservations start at 5:30.

Off Piste Off-Piste Market is the newest addition to the Rendezvous Lodge. Pick up a snack for the backpack, or sit down and take

in mountain views over a hot slice of Sicilian pizza. Full espresso bar, gourmet food, beer, wine, and small essentials like sunscreen, batteries, and even phone-charging stations.

Open 10:30-3:30.

Rendezvous The open setting of the Rendezvous offers multiple stations featuring house-made soups, a variety of noodle bowls, a fresh grill line, full salad bar, and Idaho Salt-Baked Potatoes with a huge choice of toppings. Floor-to-ceiling windows provide impressive views of Rendezvous Mountain’s summit and the famous "Corbet's Couloir" ski run.

Corbet’s Cabin Ride the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram to the summit and enter Corbet’s Cabin at “The Top of the World” for a lasting vacation memory of sweet or savory waffles made on the spot. The Cabin also serves up snow cones, hot drinks, refreshing cold beverages, beer, grab-n-go-items, and tram souvenirs. Relax and enjoy snacks on the outdoor deck while soaking up expansive valley views.

— Adventure Guide

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Grand Targhee Mountain Resort High on the western slope of the Teton

Range, hidden among forests of spruce, fir, pine, and aspen, sits Grand Targhee, a complete, year-round resort. Over 2,600 acres of terrain perfect for hiking, biking, horseback riding, music festivals

and, of course, skiing lie upon three mountain peaks. And from the tops of those peaks, the visitor can easily imagine reaching out and touching the magnificent Tetons.

Scenic Chairlift Ride

A ride up the Dreamcatcher chairlift to the 9,862-foot summit of Fred’s Mountain guarantees the best Teton views possible – and without ever breaking a sweat. The lift can jump-start a spectacular high-altitude hike or access relaxing, inspiring sightseeing. Take a bike up the lift, too, as long as it’s of the downhill variety. Habitat, Grand Targhee’s go-to biking shop located at the base of the mountain during the summer months, has everything needed to enjoy the downhill and cross-country bike trails. For those planning to be here for

A view of the Grant Tetons is a good reason to ascend Targhee’s slopes on a bike, a hike, or the chairlift.

Top Left: Fun for all ages and great for learning, the outdoor climbing wall offers six different routes.

Bottom Left: Targhee’s Village Plaza, a fun and peaceful hangout for young and old.

the Total Solar Eclipse in August, this could be the ticket to the big one!

Photos courtesy Grand Targhee Resort

Mountain Bike

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Explore 47-plus miles of multi-use trails, including a new “flow park,” ideal for perfecting downhill and cross-country bike skills. The Grand Targhee Bike Park offers every style of riding for every level of mountain biker: gentle banked cruisers, tight and twisty single-track, cross-country, and gnarly, rock-strewn downhill with drop-offs. Lift-assisted rides start with Sidewinder to Lightning Ridge and Loop trails.

Then, finish with Colter’s Escape for the longest descent on the mountain. The resort hosts a variety of downhill and cross-country races and closes out the summer with the annual Wydaho Rendezvous Mountain Bike Festival.

Check out Targhee’s Bike School for lessons and tours.

Roadies will love riding the 12-mile paved section from Driggs up to the resort, where they’ll enjoy breathtaking views of the Grand Tetons.

Bike rentals, sales, and service are available at Habitat at the resort and also at Habitat in downtown Driggs.

Wade McKoy photo

Climbing Wall & EuroBungee

Experience the fun and challenge of sport climbing right at the base area. The resort’s experienced staff will help coach recreationists to the top of its specially designed climbing wall.

Fun for all ages and great for learning, the outdoor climbing wall offers six different routes.

Good for children and first-time or experienced

climbers. Each climb includes instructor, harness, and belay.

The resort’s bungee trampoline hybrid provides an exhilarating experience where novices can bounce and flip while safely tethered.

Disc Golf

The 18-hole Grand Targhee Disc Golf Course plays through rolling aspen meadows at 8,000 feet! Frisbees seem to float farther at high-alpine elevation, promising drives that are sometimes over 550 feet. Long holes, short holes, and everything in between—this is not your standard wide-open area. The course favors players with an arsenal of throwing techniques, from standard backhand and forehand to tomahawks. Beginners and experts alike will be challenged!

Hike

Hikes at the resort vary in length and wind through wildflower-laced meadows, aspen forests, and may even offer a glimpse of the local wildlife. Hikes range from a half-mile to 3.2 miles and of course ensure stunning views of the Grand Tetons. Stop at the Nature Center to learn about the local ecology and wildlife, and sign up for a guided hike.

Horseback Trail Rides

A good horse is still a prized Western companion and the best mode of travel for a long tour through these mountains. The local cowboys at Haviland's Western Adventures can saddle up a trusty steed and show riders the mountains the old-fashioned way. Aside from walking, riding a horse is the only way to tour

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Wade McKoy The music festival, a three-day event sure to please.

Facing page:

The alpine splender of Targhee’s high altitude slopes.

Photo courtesy Grand Targhee Resort

At the 13th Annual Targhee Music Fest an eclectic gathering of bands perform in a natural outdoor amphitheater adjacent to Targhee’s base-area plaza.

Top: Table Mountain, seen on the horizon, affords a close-up view of the Grand Teton for those who hike the wildflower-strewn approach.

Right: A swim in the pool awaits guests staying in Targhee’s slope-side lodging.

Facing page: Grace Potter performing at the 2016 Targhee Music Fest.

the Jedediah Smith Wilderness Area within the Teton Range. Face it: horses can take cowpokes a lot farther than their own two feet can.

Private horseback riding is not allowed.

Naturalist Programs

That Rocky Mountain journey can start at the resort’s Nature Center, located just off the plaza, or at its new Summit Nature Center at the top of Dreamcatcher in the summer months. Both sites offer a feel for the critters and plants found there. From moose to pine martin, lupine to forget-me-not, the center provides a feast for the eyes, ears, and nose on some of the Lower 48’s purest landscape.

Dining & Shopping

No one goes hungry at Grand Targhee, no

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matter what time it is. The Branding Iron Grill, the resort’s signature dining experience, offers a menu inspired by fresh and locally farmed ingredients. The Trap Bar, an après-ski institution for over 40 years, serves pub fare and more than 12 beers on tap, including many from local breweries. All winter long, this is the stop after a day on the slopes. Live music most Fridays and Saturdays is only one reason to drop in and kick up the heels. Another? The Trap’s eight flat-screen TVs–perfect for catching any sporting event.

Shop for the latest styles and gear just steps away from Targhee lodging at Teton Mountain Outfitters and The Board Shop, or stock up on staples at The General Store. Habitat in nearby Driggs carries the best lifestyle soft goods.

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Music

13th Annual Targhee Music Fest From Friday to Sunday, July 14-16, an eclectic gathering of bands perform in a natural outdoor amphitheater adjacent to Targhee’s base-area plaza. Catch performances from groups like Galactic, Leftover Salmon, Booker T’s Stax Review, Lucas Nelson and the Promise of the Real, Karl Denson’s Tiny Universe and a host of others. Games and on-site activities are all a part of this summer music festival. On-site tent camping is available during the festival weekend. Take advantage of the free shuttle service and leave your vehicle in Driggs.

30th Annual Targhee Bluegrass Festival From Friday to Sunday, August 11-13, this summer’s lineup at the Grand Targhee Blue-

Wade McKoy grass Festival includes the Sam Bush Band, The Infamous Stringdusters, Railroad Earth, Greensky Bluegrass, Tim O’Brien Band, Dell McCoury Band, Peter Rowan, and more.

Pickers and fiddlers can even come early for the 12th Annual Targhee Music Camp to learn from some of the music world’s best acoustic musicians and teachers.

Lodging

Three Western-style lodges are located in the high alpine village, just steps from the lifts and trails. A wide range of condominiums, vacation

homes, and town homes are available a short distance from the resort.

The Grand Targhee Pass

Sample the ‘Ghee’s climbing wall, its EuroBungee, and its scenic chairlift ride into slope-side landscape through this ticket into adventure.

And get this: the pass also includes a Prospector’s 2 lbs. bag of gemstone mining rough. Kids can even pan for fun at Grand Targhee Mining Co. sluice.

— Adventure Guide

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HOW TO KEEP A GREAT DAY GREAT What’s in your pack?

n June, 2016, a Portland college kid failed to fully appreciate why a hot spring in Yellowstone would be signed as off-limits. Reportedly hoping for a warm soak, the recent college graduate leaned over to test the forbidden waters, fell in, and quickly succumbed to a fatal scalding in the 200-degree pool. Nothing of the body was ever recovered by park rangers.

It’s tempting to ignore signage or

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A slip and fall into the icy waters of the Tetons’ Delta Lake could end badly for those not prepared for self rescue.

common sense around enthralling landscape, brushing off nature’s potential for lethality.

But let’s talk about you. You would not do that. Still, you don’t have to disobey signage to risk a major oopsie — it’s that free and wild out here. Welcome to our lovely, deep, high, and peril-rich mountains.

Perhaps you gaze at their majesty, raring to become intimate with that which remains well hidden from roadside turnouts.

Perhaps you don’t feel much at all—just an urge to wander in the woods, to see what the big deal is.

Whether you are tuned-in or oblivious, you may also have an urge to feel free, to shun encumbrances. Remember this: they shoot those wild-in-nature SUV commercials with an enormous crew cropped out of the money shot.

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In order of probability, your bad day will be due to weather, crummy planning, getting lost, overconfidence, bad luck, or wildlife. Land two or three of these happenstances simultaneously and you’re a goner.

By far, bad weather leads to most epics simply because becoming wet quickly complicates matters. Wetness leads to slower progress, rapid loss of body heat, disorientation, falls, early darkness and the occasional 50,000-degree F bolt of lightning. Cruelly, high exposed places that offer the best cell phone reception also offer the best lightning reception.

Hiking in the steep-walled Tetons is a classic trap. You won’t see clouds until they’re literally on top of you. Leave your car under all-blue skies, scramble to a lofty perch by lunchtime, unwrap your PB&J, and a gloaming canopy of wetness appears as if by magic.

Happens all the time.

Acknowledging the ever-shifting nature of

Wade McKoy photo

I

By David Swift

The park bear tops many a Yellowstone visitor’s must-see list. Lovable cartoon characters Yogi and Boo Boo got into trouble lifting “pick-a-nick baskets” from tourists, but things are quite different when bears and humans mix for real.

In Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks, bears can show up most anywhere, but it’s crucial to view them from a distance. The parks enforce strict guidelines and rules for viewing wildlife, especially grizzlies. When it comes to bear safety, park rangers don’t cut violators much slack. Read the information in the parks’ newspaper that is given out at all entrance stations and visitor centers.

“Bear jams” along the highway can be spectacles in themselves, and viewing from a vehicle can ensure a safe encounter—for bears and for park visitors. However, when heading out for a hike in bear country, things are not so easily controlled. Safe travel begins before visitors hit the trail. Again, park newsletters can help.

It should be noted that there is on average only a single bear attack in the park each year. In 2011 and 2015, in separate incidents, bears inside the park killed three visitors.

Bear attacks are rare, and visitors’ safety cannot be guaranteed. But there are a number of things that help reduce the risks. First, check with the nearest backcountry office or visitor center for current bear activity or incidents. Second, always carry bear spray.

Bear spray canisters run $30 to $55 and are available at many retail outlets in the greater Yellowstone region. They are also now available for rent on a daily or longer basis at the Bear Aware kiosk at Canyon Village.

Bears are one of Yellowstone and Teton parks’ great treasures; their survival, though, requires that humans act responsibly. After all, it is their home we’re visiting.

For more information visit www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/bearsafety.

“necessity,” the following are high up on the list of things to haul:

Water. Sip water constantly. You’re probably at a higher altitude than accustomed, so your heart and lungs are working to adjust. Constant hydration keeps you cooler in heat and warmer in cold. If you’re not peeing a bit more than usual, you’re not drinking enough water.

If you’re wondering whether they are utilitarian or merely fashionable, Camelbacks and similar water packs have become a standard feature amongst serious roamers. For a day trip or longer, tote a water filter or similar purifying scheme.

Food. Splurge, taking more than you need.

Make it real food. Current trend: protein and fat with a side of electrolytes, fresh fruit for dessert. Eschew sugar-waters — expensive water — which is nearly every bottled drink out there.

Layers. A base layer, pile jacket, and a shell means you’ll withstand a long picnic on a breezy, exposed ridge. If the shell is waterproof, all the better. Add a foam butt pad, hat, gloves, and bottom layers and the alwaysmiraculous puffy jacket and suddenly you’re prepared for quite the ordeal.

Lighter. Fire good—but for desperate situations only. If you’re reading this in the far future: did the entire West finally go up in one big beetle-kill inferno?

Headlamp. At least a flashlight. The latest LED lamps are cheap, efficient, and nearly weightless.

Knife. Extra points for it having a corkscrew.

Photo courtesy Eco Tour Adventures, Taylor Phillips

Bear Safety

A grizzly’s claws are formidable.

Map. Plus compass. Trails around here are well marked, well worn. The moment a trail looks specious, calmly do a 180 and return to the spot where you stopped paying attention.

Unguents. Bug juice. Pepper spray for bears. (Please don’t go looking to actually use it.) Sun block. Lipschmeer.

Ponder taking . . . Sunglasses. Blister protection; if you feel a bit of rubbing within the first mile of your hike, a blister is imminent.

One hundred feet of 1/4-inch parachute cord — I carry it, use it once every three years.

Heavy-duty plastic trash bags weigh nada, take no space, and separate dry things from wet things.

Mobile phone. Don’t fall for those purity-ofbackcountry sentiments. Carry it but turn it off.

If you really need it you want battery life. It’s harder than ever in the West to find a place with no signal. To get a signal, find a place on the mountain that gives most line of sight to civilization. Just don’t call because someone’s tired. Expect to be invoiced for a rescue.

Changeable terrain. Somewhere up the trail you may enter a parallel dimension where an ice axe is essential. Welcome to mountaineering. Mountaineering requires training in the use of this elegant and sharp stick, which is often accessorized with shoe spikes, aka crampons.

If you come across steep snow with no way to stick to it, turn around lest you court an injury of all-too-common an origin.

Mammals gone wild. Deer and elk usually have the common sense to bolt well before you see them. Moose and bison don’t have such a huge personal space. They’ll pretend to ignore

you, sucking you in for a tighter shot. Hence the term “sucker.” Once they decide you are a threat, you are too close for any retreat. Bison go from zero-to-your-spleen in scarcely more than a nanosecond. With their hooves and antlers, moose are preprogrammed to turn you into a free-form sculpture.

Bear confrontations forever spark disagreement on the best coping strategy; I won’t pretend to have the last word on that. Best to avoid that predicament in the first place. Make noise as you amble. Bears are not shy about breaking and entering for food, either tents or cars. There’s no shortage of preventive techniques available courtesy of park rangers.

If you can manage to be attacked by a wolf, be prepared to become the star of a nationwide media feeding frenzy.

Now you know enough to be not as dangerous. Plan your route, tell people where you are going, and err on the side of leisure rather than heroics. (You can embellish later.) This is for three reasons: for the benefit of your loved ones near and far whose lives you don’t wish to disrupt; for the benefit of society at large because we all have better things to do than to go looking for you; and for the good name of your progeny, who don’t want to Google a family member and have the Darwin Awards website come up as the first hit.

David Swift, a self-deployed image-oriented propagandist, exists in Jackson, Wyoming, a small resort town noted for its recent outbreak of $2 coffee, no refills.

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ALPINE MEDICAL ADVICE An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Mountain biking, especially the downhill variety, demands skill, focus, and the proper gear.

A

nybody can have an accident. People

hurt themselves all the time just walking around the Town Square. Lacerations, twisted ankles, burns from the campfire, and other minor traumas are still the main reasons we see summertime adventurers in the emergency room. It’s the other range of preventable issues that we’d hope to see less of.

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Here’s some practical advice that will help keep your interactions with our hospital staff on a social level and far away from the Emergency Room.

TREKKING IN THE TETONS

Some of the most dramatic accidents occur in the high mountains of GTNP when an individual takes a big fall. Usually this occurs on the descent from an otherwise enjoyable day of hiking and climbing. To avoid this scenario make sure to save enough energy for the way down—don’t become passive or inattentive while descending. Also, if you are going to encounter snow or ice on your trek, bring an ice axe. This is a lightweight piece of equipment that you will appreciate when it’s needed.

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ALTITUDE SICKNESS

Acute mountain sickness (AMS). Symptoms, which may be mild or severe, include headache, fatigue, lightheadedness, lack of appetite, frequent waking from sleep, and nausea. The most common prevention for AMS is to ascend slowly over a period of several days, which allows the body to adjust. For vacationers to Jackson Hole, though, hydration is the numberone protection against altitude sickness. Avoid over-exertion the day before you travel and during the first few days at altitude. Arrive on your vacation rested, not exhausted. Avoid alcoholic beverages and sleeping pills. They inhibit proper acclimatization. If you drink coffee or other beverages with caffeine, don’t stop. It’s safe at high altitudes and stopping suddenly

Wade McKoy photo; Rider: Brendon Newton

By Jeffrey Greenbaum, MD St. John’s Medical Center Medical Director, Emergency Department

TIPS TO HELP KEEP YOU SAFE

can actually cause AMS-like symptoms.

If you develop signs of AMS, you should return to valley elevations. Do not go higher until your symptoms have resolved, which usually occurs within 24 hours. Rest and avoid drinking alcohol and taking sedatives or sleeping pills as you recover. Aspirin and other anti-inflammatories, like ibuprofen, can help prevent a headache that often occurs with AMS.

MOUNTAIN BIKING

Mountain biking falls are inevitable, even for those with a wealth of experience. As in much of life, it’s not whether you fall but how you land that will determine your fate. Collar bone injuries are common with this activity, but they can be avoided with proper technique and practice. Start off slowly and avoid taking chances until you learn how to balance your bike in all conditions. Ride within your ability and don’t let friends or family push you too hard. Body armor and padding is recommended.

GENERAL SUMMER ADVICE

Most accidents in Jackson Hole will be complicated by our local climate and geography. Summertime temperatures in the mountains can change from warm to cold quickly, and your location in the mountains might preclude communication via cell phone and therefore delay rescue. Always bring warm clothing and extra food and water. When in doubt hire a guide or outfitter.

Bob Woodall

THE UPPER SNAKE RIVER

The Upper Snake River runs the length of Jackson Hole and then flows into the Snake River Canyon, where Class III+ whitewater draws many recreationists. The river is fed by snowmelt from the mountains, so the water temperature can be frigid. If you are going rafting or kayaking, you can avoid hypothermia by dressing in specialty clothing such as a wet suit or a dry top. Also, it’s important to know that cold water alone can cause certain individuals to go into a cardiac arrest. If you have a history of heart disease, you should consider this before venturing out.

Dr. AJ Wheeler • Dr. Daniel A. Nelson • Dr. Jeffrey Greenbaum

"Always carry a first aid kit appropriate for your activity.

Nobody ever plans to get hurt but you can be prepared."

— Dr. AJ Wheeler, Emergency Physician

“When recreating on local trails, consider limiting headphone volume so as to increase awareness of other people, pets, and wildlife sharing the trails.”

— Dr. Daniel A. Nelson, Emergency Physician

"If you're going for a hike in the Tetons, trekking poles can relieve the impact on the knees and hips, especially when going downhill."

— Dr. Jeffrey Greenbaum, Emergency Physician

Quality Medical Care Away From Home Immediate medical attention for injuries and illnesses Walk-ins welcome Same day appointments available On-site x-ray and lab Hours: Monday–Friday: 9 am–7 pm Saturday–Sunday: 10 am–4 pm

307.739.8999 tetonhospital.org/urgent

1415 S Highway 89, Jackson (Smith’s Food Center Plaza) 2 0 1 7 G r a n d T e To n & Ye l lo w s To n e a d v e n T u r e G u i d e

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PUT YOUR BEST FOOT FORWARD Four must-dos for happy feet on the trail

by Heidi Jost, M.D. Teton Orthopaedics Orthopaedic Foot & Ankle Specialist

H

iking the trails and in the mountains

around Jackson Hole can be fun and ex-

citing. But preparation can make all the difference in the world for a safe and comfortable experience. A few tips should help you get started.

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Above: Once a hiker reaches the alpine zone, the footwear of choice gets as beefy as the terrain.

Facing page: Lightweight approach shoes and running shoes are perfect for many area hikes.

Let's focus on the foundation of our bodies, our feet. Made up of 52 bones, 1/4 of all the bones in our body, our feet support up to 4-6 times our body weight with each step. We need to protect these assets.

Before you hit the trail: First, find comfortable, supportive footwear. Designs run the spectrum from heavy backpacking/mountaineering boots to lightweight trail-runners.

Your needs may vary, based on terrain, the weight of your pack, and your ankle strength and stability. Treads are designed to provide traction on rocks and dirt trails, with firm soles that also provide a stable platform for torsional rigidity. Harder, more durable rubber soles will protect your feet from sharp rocks or other pressure points that may cause painful bruising.

An ankle collar will provide optimal ankle support while protecting you from the environment.

Gaiters can help prevent pebbles and other debris from finding their way into your boots.

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Some models feature Gore-tex or its equivalent, which provides waterproofness, but at the expense of ventilation.

Fit, though, is most important of all: your feet should not slip around in your shoes. Try them on with the socks you intend to hike in. Assess for pressure points and for toes hitting the front of the boot when pointed downhill. (Remember to keep your toenails trimmed!) Bring the shoes home and, while wearing the socks you plan to hike in, wear the shoes around the house to break them in. Sometimes issues can be resolved by swapping out the insole that came with the shoe/boot for a specialty or custom orthotic. Then take them for a spin on a local trail.

When choosing socks, consider weight, material, cushion, and support. 100% cotton is not recommended; it absorbs sweat, dries slowly, provides no insulation when wet, and it can lead to blisters out on the trail. You may even add a base-layer liner to wick away more

Wade McKoy photos; Hikers: Jess McMillan (left), Liza Sarychev (rt) moisture and decrease friction on your skin.

On the trail: Be aware of your feet. If you feel something not quite right, address it immediately. Remove pebbles, straighten out bunched socks, file down an irritating boot liner. Avoid too much moisture. Our feet have around 250,000 sweat glands. They are moisture-pro-

Angus Goetz, DO

ducing machines capable of generating half a pint of sweat every day. That’s without even adding environmental factors like rain, snow and/or an occasional stream crossing. Consider rotating pairs of socks to stay dry. There are even moisture-absorbing foot powders you can apply pre-hike.

After a long day: Recovery is important for tissue repair. Cool down with low-intensity exercise, stretch, perform active recovery with easy gentle movements, hydrate, and refuel.

Heidi Jost, MD

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WATER WORLD

Paddle into the wild

T

eton and Yellowstone country is blessed with water, lots of it. Perfectly clear and startlingly cold, it cascades down the mountains as winter snows melt throughout spring, summer, and fall. It pools hundreds-of-feet deep in lakes and reservoirs with mirror smoothness that at times also brandish white-capped fury. Rivers of snowmelt braid the landscape, creating riffles, rapids, and flat-water effervescence.

Summer fun in mountain country should include an outing on the water. Choose a craft and get going on an unforgettable adventure.

Wade McKoy photo; Kayaker: Holly McKoy

WHITEWATER FLOAT TRIPS

The eight-mile whitewater stretch of the Snake River just below Jackson Hole may offer the finest one-day introduction to rapids in the country. And the folks at Sands Whitewater have been at it since the beginning. For over 50 years, Sands has been leading river trips that have evolved way beyond merely crashing through waves of whitewater.

A number of combo-trips fill out the complement of water adventures. The ultimate experience is the overnighter. It begins with an eight-mile evening float.

“There is typically no one on the water in the evening,” said Sands Whitewater river manager Danny Suarez, “so at that time you have the river all to yourself.”

When guests arrive at the campsite, dinner is on Continued next page

Sea kayaking on Jackson Lake is relaxing in calm weather.

Experienced boaters know, though, that sudden winds can whip the placid waters into a froth of breaking waves. All boaters should watch the weather and be prepared.

Facing page: Rope Rapids’ long, rolling ride has been exciting floaters for decades, and these days a growing number of SUP enthusiasts have also mastered it.

learn to enjoy that twinge in your gut as you round a bend and hear a roar like the sound of ocean waves breaking on the beach. if you’re nervous – good, that’s the idea.

Bob Woodall

Below: Lunch Counter Rapids, while a serious whitewater feature, provides thrills when safely negotiated by a good guide.

Wade McKoy photo; SUP: Aaron Pruzan Continued from 59

the grill. After selecting a tipi for the night, it’s time to hang out around the campfire before settling in for a night under the stars.

For those not into an overnight stay, Sands serves up a breakfast/whitewater package. Guests start the day with an early morning float to the camp, and then enjoy a hearty riverside breakfast.

The real adventure begins after breakfast. Something changes as the guests load into the boats, slowly realizing just how different a raft feels than the car they’ve been riding around in. As they grip the paddle and peer out over the river, guests understand why this is still considered an adventure. Time on the water is time well spent.

“You’re experiencing the thrill of nature at its best,” said Suarez.

“You’re taming some wild rapids in an uncontrolled environment. It’s great teamwork. Everybody in the boat is paddling and working together to make it through these rapids. It’s pretty sweet that you can tame a wild beast like the Snake River and be able to make it through safely.”

Clients learn to enjoy that twinge in their gut as they round a bend and hear a roar like the sound of ocean waves breaking on the beach.

There’s a golden moment when, just as they enter the smooth, slick tongue of a big rapid, time stands still and the world is quiet despite the surrounding chaos. Exuberance soon replaces anxiety after pounding through some beefy waves and coming through upright and invigorated.

These are the moments on a river trip that create indelible memories.

Book early, though, especially during those hot summer afternoons, when everybody is looking for a splash in the face.

SEA KAYAKING

Sea kayaking the alpine lakes of Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks promises an unusual mix of tranquility and excitement. “Our lake-kayaking experiences are comparable to the world-renowned areas of the Baja, Maine, the San Juan Islands, and Alaska,” said Aaron Pruzan, co-founder of Rendezvous River Sports. Pruzan began kayaking and exploring the rivers of Wyoming and Idaho in the early 1990s.

SCENIC FLOAT TRIPS

The scenic upper section of the Snake is much different than its whitewater counterpart. Sands Scenic Float trips knows this section extremely well. So does O.A.R.S. (Outdoor Adventure River Specialists), which has been guiding whitewater rafting in the western U.S since 1969.

The water is calmer, but still fast-moving, coursing through a network of side and main channels. The shoreline varies greatly along these sections of river, as dense forests of spruce and lodge pole pine give way to stands of cottonwood and aspen, home ground for beavers.

All the animal species of Jackson Hole use this river-bottom habitat at one time or another. Rafters frequently spy moose, elk, deer, bison, pronghorn antelope, eagle, osprey, duck, river otter, muskrat and, for the sharp-eyed, fine-spotted Snake River cutthroat trout. Occasionally a black or grizzly bear makes an appearance, sometimes even a wolf.

Designated a National Wild and Scenic River, special sections of the Snake receive federal protection, including stretches running through Grand Teton National Park, the canyon, and confluences with a dozen tributaries. The sensitive regulations should help the ecosystem remain healthy and vibrant, ensuring that future generations may also enjoy this remarkable river. (Visit snakeriverfund.org.)

WHITEWATER & SCENIC RIVER TRIPS

Celebrating Over 50 Years EXCITING WHITEWATER RELAXING SCENIC FLOATS COMBINATION TRIPS OVERNIGHT ADVENTURES BREAKFAST AND LUNCH COMBO TRIPS

Whether you’re 4 or 104, enjoy wild adventure, quiet water, or a little bit of both. sandswhitewater.com | 800-358-8184 One block south of the Town Square

2017 Grand T e To n & Ye l lo w s To n e a d v e n T u r e G u i d e

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Photo courtesy O.A.R.S. Jackson Lake’s northern arm blends unnoticeably into the Snake River inlet, which in turn is navigable almost to Yellowstone National Park.

Jackson Lake, Grand Teton National Park With a stunning Teton backdrop, this 40square-mile reservoir has numerous put-ins to access a variety of day-trip options. Paddlers enjoy seemingly endless shorelines, inlets, and islands where moose, elk, deer, bear, and bald eagles are common sights.

O.A.R.S. offers overnight trips on Jackson Lake, excursions running from one to four nights. Campsites dot the broad shoreline where guests sleep under the starlit skies at

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the base of the Tetons. Grassy Island, an idyllic campsite in Moran Bay, sits directly beneath the towering peaks. From there, guests can hike deep into the Teton backcountry, or wander up Moran Canyon, or stroll over to Leigh Lake — and then take a dip in the snow-fed waters once back in camp.

Jackson Lake Dam raises the water level of the natural lake by 30 feet and provides 847,000 acre feet of water used for irrigation on Idaho potato farms. Before its waters head south, though, paddlers can enjoy the ex-

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panded horizon and pretty shorelines.

Shoshone Lake, Yellowstone National Park Restricted to paddle craft only, the distant waters of Shoshone Lake guarantee peace and quiet for its visitors. “There are no motorboats once you leave Lewis Lake,” said Pruzan. “The remoteness, the quiet, the hiking in Shoshone Geyser Basin—it’s sublime.”

The three-day excursion launches from Lewis Lake boat ramp. Paddlers follow the shoreline’s fields, forests, and hot pools to the inlet. After navigating a few miles of small river

Photo courtesy O.A.R.S. Yellowstone Lake’s thermal features in West Thumb are accessible only by boat, but landfall is prohibited. channel, boaters glide into Shoshone Lake.

Yellowstone Lake At 7,732 feet above sea level, Yellowstone Lake is the largest freshwater body above 7,000 feet in North America. The stunning waters rest a thousand feet higher than Jackson Lake and claim three times the acreage. It’s a natural lake, too, with a surface area of 136 square miles. Although the lake’s average depth is 139 feet,

some portions plumb 390 feet.

Half-day tours – Boaters can probe these waters safely along the shores of West Thumb on a short paddling excursion offered by O.A.R.S. Guests paddle next to caves where boiling water drips into the cold lake while bubbles from lake-bottom thermal vents steam up around their boats. Guides explain the origins of sites like Fishing Cone Geyser,

where early visitors caught cutthroat trout and cooked them in the geyser.

Rendezvous River Sports also guides daypaddling tours in West Thumb. The outfit knows Yellowstone Lake very well, and for full emersion, recommends camping: Backcountry Overnights – “We go along the south shore of West Thumb, through The Narrows, and around Breeze Point to a really

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“For me,” said suP enthusiast ward Blanch, “it’s all about long tours on Jackson lake, going forever along the shore and out into the open water. You can cover some miles.”

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Bob Woodall

Below: Slide Lake in the Gros Ventre Mountains is a quiet place to fish, paddle, and sail.

the imposing open water of the South Arm. A guide can help. The end of the Southeast Arm of Yellowstone Lake is about as far away from people as you can get in the Lower 48.

Slide Lake, Bridger-Teton National Forest Slide Lake, created in 1925 when a landslide dammed the Gros Ventre River, is an ideal place for Rendezvous River Sports to teach kayaking. Off the beaten path, the lake’s quiet waters also afford tremendous views of the Red Hills to the east and the Tetons to the west.

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Facing page: The Snake River Canyon’s smaller rapids make good surf spots for SUPers.

STAND UP PADDLE BOARD

Stand-up paddle boarding, also called SUP, claimed its fame years ago as the fastest growing water sport in the world. It migrated into the Rocky Mountains from coastal cultures – notably, from its ancient Hawaiian roots. Here in mountain country, two distinct versions of SUP help enthusiasts ply the waters.

River – The Snake River’s many and varied water features create a first-rate playground for stand-up paddle boarders. From its flat

Wade McKoy ; Kayaker: Mari Hanson

nice campsite,” said Pruzan. “It’s a great onenight if people want to get in the backcountry a little ways. Not many power boats in that zone. In two days we can access Flat Mountain Arm. It’s really pretty, with amazing views of the Absaroka Range, the Trident Peaks, Stevenson and Doane.”

A full circumnavigation of Yellowstone Lake’s roadless shoreline, from Sedge Creek Bay to West Thumb, takes five to seven days.

The five-day version involves cutting across

Left: Large rapids in the Snake River Canyon guarantee thrills.

Wade McKoy photo; SUP: Tommy Moe surfing, Aaron Pruzan and Bill Dyer queued up water and small riffles, eddies and waves, to its bigger and more powerful whitewater, the Snake delivers the goods to SUP recreationists of all skill levels.

“All the sections of the Snake are awesome, from the dam to the Palisades,” said Pruzan who, along with several fellow kayakers and skiers, pioneered SUP river use in Jackson Hole in 2008.

Lake – Some SUP enthusiasts, like local skier-turned-waterman Ward Blanch, prefer paddling on lakes. “For me,” said Blanch, “it’s all about long tours on Jackson Lake, going

forever along the shore and out into the open water. You can cover some miles. And you get such a great full-body workout.”

Not to mention startling views into the water from the elevated perspective that SUP provides (wear polarized glasses and you’ll likely pick out some fish).

WHITEWATER KAYAKING

A national treasure, the Snake River Canyon south of Jackson and Hoback Junction is ground zero for whitewater kayaking. Easy access, deep water, and rapids from Class 1 to Class 3 ensures a recipe for fun and thrills.

BOAT RENTAL & LESSONS

Rendezvous River Sports rents many types of hand-powered watercraft: sea kayaks, whitewater kayaks, rafts, and stand-up paddleboards. Even a small catamaran is available from the rental fleet.

RRS also offers lessons for all paddle sports and rafting. Slide Lake serves as a quiet place to learn sea kayaking. For whitewater and SUP, the Snake River’s calmer stretches near Hoback Junction provide a good mix of flat water, small waves, and eddies – the perfect outdoor classroom. — Adventure Guide

*OTUSVDUJPO 5PVST 3FOUBMT 4BMFT 4FSWJDF

945 W Broadway Jackson, Wy

307-733-2471

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Bob Woodall photo

FISHING

Angling for native trout in the best of mountain country

Fly fishing in Jackson Hole is the captivating combination of catching wild, native snake river cutthroat in majestic mountain surroundings.

Facing page: The dory’s maneuverability proves popular among anglers on Jackson Hole’s Snake River.

Left: The author landing a Snake River finespotted cutthroat trout in Granite Creek.

Scott Smith

Wade McKoy

Below: Brawny browns dominate some waters in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem.

By scott sanchez

T

he mesmerizing whisper of the river’s current. The graceful arc of a fly line as it travels through the air, silhouetted against a kaleidoscope of colorful wildflowers and vibrant green cottonwoods, framed by the purple/grey Tetons and deep azure sky.

That breathtaking image mirrored at your feet on the water’s surface pleasantly interrupted by the vibrant golden form of a cutthroat trout encircled in its rise form. Fly fishing in Jackson Hole is the captivating combination of catching wild, native Snake River cutthroat in majestic mountain surroundings.

And a fine a catch it is! The indigenous Snake River fine-spotted cutthroat is gold in color, peppered with small black spots, and accented

by its signature crimson throat markings. Thanks in part to evolution and, additionally, through special regulations, habitat restoration projects, and the Snake River’s Wild and Scenic River Designation, this trout dominates the Snake River drainage.

Snake River cutthroats average from six to twelve inches, but mature fish up to 18 inches are not uncommon. My largest taped in at 27 inches.

There are non-native fisheries that yield a larger average trout size, but none compare to Jackson’s oversized fishing experience, scenery, and tranquility. Regardless of their size, all wild native fish are trophies.

Plying waters with dry flies is considered the essence of fly fishing.

The intimate encounter of trout and angler transcending their worlds to meet at the water’s surface is magical. From casting an inch-long Chernobyl into the current of the Snake to matching the hatch for large se-

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Bob Woodall Above: The Henry’s Fork of the Snake River provides fishing with a view as it meanders through Island Park, Idaho.

Right, in sequence: Attaching a dry fly to the line.

Wade McKoy photos

The author and his trusty companion ply the waters.

The author releasing a trout.

Note the pepper spray: a must when fishing in bear country.

The indigenous snake river fine-spotted cutthroat trout is gold in color, peppered with small black spots, and accented by its signature crimson throat markings. lective cutts on Flat Creek, Jackson offers some of the best dry-fly fishing in the world. Overall, Snake River cutts are aggressive surface feeders. This evolved survival trait is needed to take advantage of a relatively short summer season and finite food sources. These feeding habits at times make for less sophisticated fishing, so an angler with basic skills and a rudimentary fly selection has a good chance of fooling a fish. It might not always be a huge fish, but the opportunities to catch numerous cutts and refine your angling skills are ample. Jackson Hole is one of the best places for a complete novice to land a sizeable trout on a dry fly. In general our streams aren’t hatch-specific but offer fish a variety of insects to feed on. Consequently, visible attractor patterns like Trudes,

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Stimulators, Chernobyl Ants, and my Convertible fish very well. They don’t imitate anything exactly, but look like many of their foods.

The area around Jackson holds a variety of waters to fish, and the gamut includes streams, high-mountain lakes, large valley lakes, midsize rivers, and the sprawling, majestic Snake River. Preference for adventure can be matched with options ranging from roadside angling to floating to day hikes to overnight backcountry adventures. Teton County is 97 percent Federal land, consisting mainly of Bridger Teton National Forest and Grand Teton National Park, so the options are almost unlimited. The anglers you are most likely to run into are eagles, ospreys, and herons. Deer, elk, bison, and moose are frequent companions, and you

Scott Smith photos

Magic On The Fly

The colors of local trout are beautiful to behold.

Scott Smith displays a typical catch (and release) with a happy client.

By scott smith Why “fly fishing” and not just “plain old fishing?” The answer may lie in the art itself, fly-fishing’s opportunity to connect with nature, or just a simple love of wonder.

Traditional fishing, of course, requires plenty of craft and — without a doubt — demands a certain amount of finesse. Fly fishing, though, totally captivates its participants with an undeniable and unique delight: the flow of casting. Many of us became addicts for life, so strong is its pull.

Catching fish became secondary, though it had been everything until we discovered fly fishing’s other joys: tying flies and leaders, casting, the drift — reading the water, finding the magic.

Perhaps the most important aspects of fly fishing — where, when, and with whom — help create its magic. After all, the most

sought-after species reside in Mother Nature’s finest waters. And being surrounded by the great outdoors helps dispel the stress that life sometimes generates.

Seasons for the fly angler can also create a wonderful mystique of promise: the promise of change, and another shot at the fish of a lifetime. Dedicated anglers might find themselves on an uncrowded stream in mid-winter, reaping the benefits of a small window of opportunity, something unique to each season.

Winter, spring, fall, summer all influence the planet’s creatures, and that includes fish and fishers. Nature’s ever-changing conditions create an infinite number of possibilities. In my opinion, it’s the core of fly fishing.

Game fish move as their food does, and an observant angler can learn to recognize

these movements during the hunt.

The fellowship of fly fishing is based on ethics, conservation, and love of the game.

A day on the water can be one of complete silence and concentration, or filled with laughter and fine spirits — both very different yet completely satisfying. Getting started can be easy and need not be expensive. The basics include a rod and reel, a handful of flies, and fish water.

Once you open the door to fly fishing, though, be prepared to immerse yourself in a lifelong journey that could take you much farther than your backyard. Perhaps into the realm of magic.

Scott Smith, a fly fishing guide and managing owner of Grand Teton Fly Fishing, is stoked to live in Jackson Hole with his wife and two daughters.

&YQFSJFODFE HVJEF TUBò t #FTU BDDFTT JO +BDLTPO )PMF 8FTUFSO 8ZPNJOH t $POWFOJFOU øZ TIPQ XJUI QBSLJOH t 0QFO EBJMZ BN UP QN GRANDTETONFLYFISHING.COM 225 W BROADWAY, JACKSON, WY 307. 690. 0910 2 0 1 7 G r a n d T e To n & Ye l lo w s To n e a d v e n T u r e G u i d e

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Bob Woodall (above)

around the end of June, snake tributaries like the Hoback, Greys, and Gros ventre rivers start to clear.

This coincides with the huge salmonfly hatch on the Hoback, and good quantities of caddis and small stoneflies bring trout to the surface of all three rivers Above: An angler tries his luck in String Lake, though a sucker is likely all he’ll catch here.

Right: Scott Sanchez gently releases another cutty as his dog Cookie watches attentively.

Wade McKoy

Facing page: Fish on! Granite Creek produces plenty of small cutties that wander upstream from the Hoback River.

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the non-boat angler can’t access. This is the best option for trout quality and quantity.

September is prime season on the Snake River and I might call this a perfect place and perfect time. Trout feed on Hecuba, blue wing olive, and mahogany mayfly hatches as they fatten up for winter, and the fall colors against the deep blue sky are the icing on the cake.

The larger cutts group up as they move towards winter habitat, and when you find them, you can spend considerable time casting to good-size rising fish. With about 90 miles of water between Jackson Lake Dam and the mouth of Palisades Reservoir and many public access points, you can find your own section of the Snake.

The sunset reflection of the Tetons in the water as you release a trout back to its home is unbeatable, and the memory is an open invitation back to that spot and place in time.

Wade McKoy

Scott Sanchez, the fly tying columnist for American Angler magazine, has contributed photos and articles to numerous fly fishing magazines in the U.S. and Japan. He has written three books: Introduction to Salt Water Fly Tying, A New Generation of Trout Flies, and A Never Ending Stream. The Federation of Fly Fishers awarded him the Arnold Gingrich Lifetime Achievement Award for literary accomplishments and the Buz Busek Fly Tying Award for contributions to the world of fly tying.

Scott’s books can be found in area fly shops.

just might spot a bighorn sheep, bear, or wolf.

You can experience this on your own or with the assistance of a local guide.

June is spring in Jackson and is fairly limited for stream fishing because most waters are swollen with snowmelt. During runoff, midelevation lakes are a great option and are in beautiful surroundings. Bradley, Taggart, Bearpaw, Phelps, and Trapper lakes in Teton Park are easy hikes into fishable waters.

Phelps has trophy-size cutthroats and lake trout, while the others hold a mix of moderatesize cutts and brook trout. Bear spray, though, is standard issue when backcountry fishing in Jackson Hole. You don’t need to be scared, but you should be bear aware.

Around the end of June, Snake tributaries like the Hoback, Greys, and Gros Ventre rivers start to clear. This coincides with the huge Salmonfly hatch on the Hoback, and good quantities of caddis and small stoneflies bring trout to the surface of all three rivers. All three drainages offer camping, hiking, backpacking, and cycling options and all have fishable tributaries and lakes. This combination of waters offers over a hundred public-accessible miles

of fishing. The Gros Ventre is eight miles north of Jackson, the Hoback 13 miles south of town, and the Greys enters the Snake about 40 miles south of Jackson. Fishing will be good through mid September.

The Snake River usually clears by the end of June and can provide good dry-fly fishing through mid October. Because of the large stoneflies that hatch during the summer and the importance of terrestrials in the trout’s diet, we can fish very large dry flies that are eagerly eaten by the trout and easy for the novice or us old guys to see.

Initially, just after the rivers clear, your catch will be mostly small trout, but as August progresses, larger trout will move out of the tributaries post spawn. The Snake’s size can be intimidating, but much of it is braided with channels and side channels of various sizes.

This makes it easier to wade-fish some sections of the river, and a bit like having a bunch of smaller streams. The best way to fish the Snake, though, is with a guide and from a drift boat. This affords the most access, and while you will fish from the boat, a good part of the day also can be spent wade-fishing areas that 2 0 1 7 G r a n d T e To n & Ye l lo w s To n e a d v e n T u r e G u i d e

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CLIMBING W

hy climb? It’s a question that has dogged mountaineering pioneers for ages. And when George Mallory cast it off with his iconic retort, “Because it’s there,” the punt stuck. But a more likely explanation seems to be the powerful draw of nature, and not just among climbing’s elite.

“The initial lure of climbing—and still the bottom line for many of us—is it allows us to be in a lot of places that a lot of people don’t get to be,” said Rob Hess, Jackson Hole Mountain Guides’ co-owner and chief guide.

The elements of mountain landscapes create an undeniable lure: water rushing down snowmelt creeks, winds whispering through old-growth fir, cliffs towering over redolent meadows, falcons and ravens commanding the high currents.

In the Tetons, nature’s magnificence is compelling and commanding. But the modern world’s love affair with electronic devices tends to insulate folks against the world of nature.

Smart phones, for example, are no longer a luxury but a necessity (guides must have

Guides connect people with adventure in the natural world.

them). Outdoors professionals are concerned that for three generations now, kids don’t spend much time outside anymore beyond those phones, computers, or televisions.

“It’s come full circle for me,” said JHMG guide John “JD” Douglas. “Climbing is our touchstone – we’re guides and we’re a climbing school – but we’re also a group of people who just like to be outside with other people.

Through climbing we want to set our clients on a course of adventure in the outdoors. If they go outside and into the backcountry enough, they’ll care about the environment for the rest of their lives.”

The power of nature, the thrill of adventure are forces that defy imitation. They can spark a sense of wonder, inspiration, and joy that no virtual world can deliver.

A small sampling of testimonials from JHMG clients provides ample evidence. It seems pretty clear that Jackson Hole Mountain Guides is succeeding in its quest.

— Adventure Guide Continued page 74

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Photography by John Waller Facing page: The vast, starlit heavens await climbers at JHMG’s high camp, just below the Grand Teton (Lower Saddle center, Middle Teton left).

Below: Ascending alpine peaks often requires a pre-dawn start.

Bottom: A climber makes his way up to the Enclosure from the Upper Saddle.

Testimonials Although I have plenty of hiking and sport-climbing experience, I had never done any real mountaineering and I was nervous about climbing the Grand. All of my fears and doubts dissolved as we made our way up the mountain. Noah was a complete and total pro — leading the route with confidence and expertly managing ropes and gear. Transitions were seamless. I felt totally safe and was able to fully enjoy an epic summit day and drink in the incredible views from the top. High camp was also a great place to stay for a couple of nights. Climbing the Grand with JHMG was a truly awesome experience that I will definitely recommend to friends.

We can’t wait for our next trip with you guys! — Emily My son and I did this memorable experience together and to have conquered this challenge together was priceless. Everyone should challenge themselves to fulfill their dreams and go for it. The result will be life changing. — Keith Top: Climbers negotiate the fixed lines en route to the Lower Saddle.

Right: A guide belays a climber as the rest of the team monitors his progress.

Facing page: A practice area boasting huge alpine views is but a step away from the tents at the JHMG high camp.

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Testimonials My grandchildren loved their climbing day with Jed. He showed them some basic mountaineering techniques as well as the rock-climbing basics.

They learned what they needed to and enjoyed the process. They are both keen to return next year to do the Grand Teton. — Lockhart I’ve been a climbing-gym rat with little outdoor experience, and now I look forward to getting outdoors again. Matt was a fantastic guide. He kept great pace, had a great sense of humor, and taught me some very valuable things on my first alpine climb. — Alexander I love the Tetons and love hiking, but don’t have much mountaineering experience. We had an amazing and successful two-day trip up the Middle Teton. Our guide Chris Brown was skilled and knowledgeable, which allowed me to feel safe and enjoy the adventure! Camping overnight was great, as we were able to enjoy the peaceful, quiet evening and the beautiful stars at night! We are already dreaming about planning our next trip! — Carol

Single Day Programs

Alpine Summits & Climbing Classes For Everyone

Stand on the Summit While the Grand Teton may be the crown jewel of the Teton Range, there are plenty of options for those who aren’t mountaineers or don't have time to summit such a big peak. A range of moderate-to-difficult mountain summits can be reached in a long day. The lengthy approaches also make these climbs attractive overnight adventures.

These climbs will get you high into the rarified alpine zone and out of the park’s heavy foot-traffic. Climbing one of these non-tech-

nical peaks is one of the most intimate ways to experience Grand Teton National Park. The day starts early to summit Surprise Pinnacle, Disappointment Peak, or Teewinot.

Technical Rock Climbing Professional guides take individuals and families on a fun-filled day with breathtaking views. Aesthetic climbing challenges include the guides’ favorites: Symmetry Spire, Disappointment Peak, Ice Point, Irene’s Arete, The Snaz, Guide’s Wall and more. These

climbs represent a variety of difficulties and experiences, and are all classics.

Climbing School Learn to climb from the pros and make your day on the rocks informative, exciting, and enjoyable. Courses for all ages range from beginner to advanced and include special programs for corporate groups or private clubs. Classes are taught in one of three scenic locations in Grand Teton National Park or the Bridger-Teton National Forest.

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VIA FERRATA

The iron road reaches lofty summits

The 120-foot long suspension bridge spans a gap in the cliffs high above Casper Bowl.

Below: Catherine Cullinane Jackson climbs the steel steps on the sheer cliffs as guide Renny Jackson observes.

Beginning in the 1800s, alpinists began employing a range of climbing aids to assist themselves between peaks—notably, iron pins, hand hooks, carved footholds, and ropes. When the First World War erupted, one of the battle lines lay in the Italian Alps. To help troops move more efficiently about at high altitude and under difficult conditions, permanent lines were sometimes fixed to rock faces so soldiers could ascend steep faces.

These routes were dubbed “via ferrata,” Italian for “iron road.”

After the war, many more of these “iron roads” were developed as a way to encourage tourism and increase the range of activities available to visitors at mountain resorts.

Although most are in the European Alps, North America now claims a few via ferrata routes. But this summer the Tetons and Jackson Hole Mountain Resort will become home to the first U.S. Forest Service-approved via ferrata.

Located at the top of the Bridger Gondola

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in the rocky crags of Casper Bowl, the JHMR Via Ferrata is suitable for all level of climbers, from beginners to those who already have some alpine experience.

An assisted climbing activity, guests travel routes high above the valley floor, across suspended bridges, and along granite walls—always accompanied by an experienced guide.

Using a series of steel steps, handles, ladder rungs, and steel cables where the trail steepens, climbers ascend the cliffs along the via ferrata.

Participants are secured to the rock by

Photos Courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

T

he summits of lofty mountain peaks have enticed humans from time immemorial. Although scaling rocky crags is rife with dangers that have claimed many an adventurer, it has not deterred mountaineers. It has, though, spurred the creation of safer paths to the peaks.

Routes take guests high above the valley floor, across suspended bridges and along granite walls. wearing a harness and lanyard that remains attached to the steel cable adjacent to the climbing route. The via ferrata is designed to reduce the probability of falling and to minimize the impacts of a fall.

Three different loops, varying in difficulty from an introductory climb to more advanced, comprise the JHMR’s via ferrata.

Among the loops are eight routes, ranging in difficulty from easy to challenging, the four longest ascending 500 vertical feet. One route includes the crossing of a spectacular 120-foot long suspension bridge.

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The resort’s via ferrata is suitable for families, groups or individuals. Customers can choose from a variety of different Alpine climbing experiences. The practice routes require two to three hours, but more experienced or adventurous folks can dig in a bit deeper with the half-day option or spend a whole day exploring all the routes.

— Adventure Guide

Riding the high country

Bob Woodall

MOTORCYCLE TOURING

By Bob Woodall

E

very summer, millions of visitors explore the Greater Yellowstone region. Many of them are touring in compact SUVs or large RVs. Some lucky travelers, though, navigate the very same byways never once feeling trapped, hemmed in, or shielded from the great outdoors. Those lucky few are astride motorcycles.

Motorcycles are a great way to tour the dramatic highways and byways in Northwest Wyoming. From Grand Prix-like switchbacks over high mountain passes to rolling hills through farmlands, the jagged Tetons looming on the horizon, regional routes traverse postcard-perfect scenery, some of it braided with crystal clear rivers and punctuated by waterfalls, hot springs, and spouting geysers.

The options are daunting, so a visit to the local motorcycle shop can help find the right course. In Jackson Hole, Chester’s Jackson Hole Harley-Davidson is just off the main drag through town. The shop also offers information on local poker runs and biking events.

While many rides through the parks may seem obvious, a few are notto-be-missed and a couple are gems, albeit a bit out of the way.

Beartooth Highway Without a doubt, the All-American Beartooth Highway tops most every list of best drives, not only in this region but also in all of the U.S. It was voted the best motorcycle road in the United States by the American Motorcycle Association. The inspiring rugged alpine highway offers panoramic views of snow-covered mountains, granite peaks, and glacier lakes. Topping out at 10,977 feet, this road has it all: 67 miles of switchbacks, elevation changes, and spectacular scenery.

“This road is an experienced biker’s dream,” said Chris Pooser, a Jackson Hole realtor. “It is one of the nation’s curviest and most challenging roads.”

The Beartooth’s high alpine climate ensures that severe weather

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Pilot and Index peaks tower above the the Beartooth All-American Road, a National Scenic Byway. conditions can occur almost any month the highway is open. Normally cleared of snow by Memorial Day, the route can temporarily close due to weather at any time before closing for winter in late fall.

Summertime temperatures range from the 70s on sunny days to below freezing during sudden snowstorms. So check the weather— and the gear—before heading over. Reach the Beartooth via the Northeast Gate of Yellowstone National Park through Cooke City, Montana, via highway 212 or south from Red Lodge, Montana.

Chief Joseph Scenic Byway By far, though, the best access to the Beartooth is from the south.

Ride north from Cody, Wyoming, on state highway 120 for about 20 miles. Turn left (west) on the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, state 296, and head up the little-traveled road. The route ascends historic Dead Indian Hill, along the path trod in the late 1870s by Nez Perce Chief Joseph and his people as they made for Canada, the U.S. Army hot on their trail.

The highway switchbacks often as it climbs and descends the pass.

At Sunlight Creek, Wyoming’s highest bridge spans a 1,200-foot chasm.

Well worth stopping here to peer into its depths and take a groupie.

Follow the wide-open road till it junctions with the Beartooth Highway, turn right and head up the pass or left to Yellowstone National Park.

Island Park- Mesa Falls- Teton Scenic Byway This tour is best traversed from West Yellowstone to Jackson, the views of the Teton Range coming into focus as you head south from Montana to Idaho and then into Wyoming. Riding north to the south allows for the best views—all without having to look back over your shoulder.

Head south from West Yellowstone on highway 20. There are plenty of fishing ops along the way. Just south of Island Park, Idaho, turn left onto the Mesa Falls Scenic Byway.

“A refreshing stop is the lower Mesa Falls and visitor center,” said Pooser, an experienced Jackson rider. “The falls and the canyon sur-

From Grand Prix-like switchbacks over high mountain passes to rolling hills through farmlands, the jagged Tetons looming on the horizon, regional routes traverse postcard-perfect scenery, some of it braided with crystal clear rivers and punctuated by waterfalls, hot springs, and spouting geysers. rounding the river below are unbelievably beautiful. The mist that rises and waters the lush green plants and moss reaches the top and refreshes the observers.” Often, a full rainbow spans the 114-foot Upper Falls.

At Ashton, Idaho, turn south onto the Teton Scenic Byway as you make your way to Jackson Hole. Wide-open highway 32 negotiates rolling hills through eastern Idaho farmlands. As the road snakes to the south, the Grand Teton Range continues to rise higher and higher on the horizon, slowly (sometimes quickly) dominating the view with their splendor.

At the south end of the byway are the Teton Valley towns of Driggs and Victor. These small communities offer plenty of dining and shopping options. Or just keep riding and head over Teton Pass and on to Jackson.

The Weather Always a factor for bikers, weather becomes a major consideration in the mountains. Never head out on a ride without foul-weather gear, no matter the forecast or how beautiful the day promises to be. Mountain weather does not answer to the weatherman and storms can develop rapidly. Cold temperatures, even snow, can occur anytime during summer. Consider the unseen weather lurking behind the mountains and know that lightning frequently precedes any rainfall, especially at these high altitudes. Checking in with the National Weather Service can yield insight into the potential for inclement conditions. www.weather.gov/riw/

Wildlife Wildlife draws most visitors here. So watch for it—and watch out for it! The 45-mph speed limit inside the parks is for their safety and yours.

Motorcyclists should be extremely cautious. Bison pose a more serious risk for bikers than for car or RV drivers. The big boys can top 2,000 pounds. They are commonly encountered on park roads, and “buffalo jams” are a frequent occurrence.

“Always look ahead,” advised local biker Steve Reecer. “If there is a pileup of cars or vehicles and animals on the roadway ahead, pull over and wait for the traffic to disperse. And then continue your ride.

“On my first visit to Hayden Valley, I saw a group of vehicles ahead blocking traffic. It was too distant to see any animals and I kept going. I was soon surrounded by bison and had a stare-down with one.”

Park rules require visitors to keep their distance from large wildlife— 25 yards at least. Rangers tend to be sticklers for this rule. Keep your distance: bison are very agile and can move at 35 mph.

Night Travel Motorcyclists should wear brightly colored or reflective clothing to make themselves more visible to cars and RVs. Animals frequently cross roads at night, so drive slowly. On highway 89 through Grand Teton Park, the nighttime speed limit lowers to 45 mph.

“Deer alarms” can also be effective. Animals can hear a high-pitched whistle and are alerted. Keep in mind that alarms don’t work in rain, crosswinds, or while driving slowly.

Bear Spray-Bug Spray You’re in bear country! Recommended for hikers, bear spray could also be very useful for bikers exposed to the wilds of the open road. Keep it handy and know how to use it!

This is also mosquito country. So carry a bottle of repellant, even for a brief lakeside stop. Swarms of these pests are undaunted by bikes or bikers.

— Additional reporting by Debra Snyder

Harley - Davidson CLOTHING GIFTS & GEAR CORNER OF BROADWAY & MILLWARD 40 S. MILLWARD ST. JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING

307.739.1500

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Learn a pioneer skill from the pros

Matt Mellor Photography

SHOOTING

f you don’t know anything about guns, or if you‘re an avid shooting enthusiast, you should consider spending some time with the experts at Jackson Hole Shooting Experience during your vacation this year.

“Many of our arriving shooters say they are ‘anti-gun,’ and most touch a firearm for the very first time with us,” Lynn Sherwood, co-owner of Jackson Hole Shooting Experience, said. “Because they’re with a corporate group, or are a family visiting the ‘Wild West,’ they decide to try it anyway—and three hours later they are plastering their pictures with purple guns all over FaceBook.”

One reason for this, said co-owner Shepard Humphries, is that the JH Shooting Experience’s expert coaches regard customers not as customers but as personal guests.

The coaches also don’t consider the shot-

“We customize each experience based on each shooter’s level of experience, the number of shooters in the party, and their goals and desires. Every experience is different.”

— Lynn Sherwood

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guns, rifles, and pistols guests use to be “weapons.” That might sound like spin, but Humphries knows weapons—he spent over 10 years in law enforcement, including time as a SWAT sniper team leader.

Instead, Humphries views the guns his guests use as the equivalent of skis, golf clubs, or fishing poles. They are, he said, the tackle of “Luxury Entertainment Shooting.”

And the Jackson Hole Shooting Experience has a very large tackle box. “We have over 80 different types of guns and our selection is always growing,” Humphries said.

The enterprise’s selection includes cowboy-action revolvers, semi-auto pistols, long-range rifles, WWI battle rifles, modern sporting carbines such as the AR-15, and even a selection of .50 caliber rifle and handguns. A vintage Tommy Gun rounds out the assortment of fully automatic machine guns.

JH Shooting Experience’s most popular offering, the customizable Multi-Gun Rifle & Pistol Experience, introduces guests to many of these items in a safe, educational three-hour session billed as a “taste test.”

Safety is always paramount. Guests don eye and ear protection, participate in a

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Clockwise from above: The High Caliber Women™ program teaches defensive skills and personal protection.

Regan Kohlhardt and Tom Kohlhardt learn about long-range shooting.

Christian Robertson and Bill Fox enjoy a little shotgun action.

Photos Courtesy Jackson Hole Shooting Experience.

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By Joseph Piccoli

safety briefing and learn or review the fundamentals of shooting before enjoying hands-on instruction with their private coach.

“We customize every experience based on each shooter’s level of experience, the number of shooters in the party, and their goals and desires,” Sherwood explained. “Every experience is different and when you come back next year, you’ll grow your skills even more, as well as getting to peek at new guns we’ll have at your ready.”

Because a growing number of women expressed interest in the shooting sports and personal protection training, Sherwood launched “High Caliber Women™” in 2014. She now leads community courses, corporate group events, and bachelorette parties in private gunsafety sessions, defensive skill building, and personal protection. She conducts the classes in Jackson and around the country.

Two things not available: the rental of a single gun and a couple of boxes of ammunition— the “wam, bam, now move on” machine gun experience popularized in Las Vegas. The Jackson Hole Shooting Experience has created a very different firearms experience, one that does not, unlike inexpensive indoor ranges,

rent guns or sell a reckless three-minute machine gun activity. Its philosophy seems to be working. The TripAdvisor travel website reveals a 99.7% “5-Star Excellent” rating, the highest rating of any activity, hotel, restaurant or other Trip Advisor service in Wyoming or any surrounding state.

Reservations are required for all family and corporate group JH Shooting Experience adventures, and sometimes next-day or even same day experiences are available. For more information, visit ShootInJH.com or call 307690-7921.

Joseph Piccoli is a writer and editor living in Jackson Hole.

Safety is always paramount. Guests don eye and ear protection, participate in a safety briefing, and learn or review the fundamentals of shooting, then enjoy hands-on instruction with their private coach.

The JH Shooting Experience’s goal is to help its guests “connect with each other,” she explained. The outfit trains its guides in human psychology with a “neurolinguistic twist,” where coaches continuously observe and respond to each group member’s human needs.

As a result, all members of the group have what many describe as “the most fun of any vacation activity they have ever done!”

Novices start by shooting a variety of .22caliber rifles and handguns, which have little recoil, are easy on the body, and are thus a good introduction to shooting. Guests then move on to larger-caliber guns, including semiauto pistols, and an assortment of historic and modern rifles. These can vary widely, from a classic Marlin Lever-Action .357, a gun that a Jackson Hole cowhand of old might have carried, to the infamous AK-47—probably the most recognizable gun on the planet—and several rifles capable of hitting targets 600 yards away!

Another option, the Shotgun Clays Experience, introduces shooters to the thrill of shotgun sports. Those who have already experienced a firearms activity with JH Shooting Experience can hone their defensive pistol and carbine skills on a dynamic two-day “Next-Level” course. Other guests might be enticed by what Humphreys calls “Bespoke Adventures,” which promise two to four days shooting rifles, shotguns, pistols, or bows. The outfit’s “Journey-to-a-Mile” option will answer the question: “What’s the sound of a metal target being plugged at 1,760 yards?”

LUXURY ENTERTAINMENT SHOOTING EXPERIENCES

It's about Connections...

Families • Wedding Parties • Corporate Events SHOOTINJH.COM 307-690-7921

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Western family fun

Photo Courtesy Willow Creek Horseback Rides

HORSEBACK RIDING

H

owdy, pardner. Welcome to The West! It’s not just a direction on the compass, mind you, but a place steeped in history and cowboy lore. Images of it flow into your mind like a flash flood in a Western movie. Wagon trains stretched across the high plains, John Wayne hunting down the bad guys, and the cowboy astride his horse riding into the sunset.

So why not connect with the lore of the past by throwing your leg over the back of a trusty steed and heading for the hills?

“You can look around at the 360-degree view, enjoy the smell of the sage, the sounds of the forest, listen to streams, and drink in the landscape—and physical limitations can be overcome,” the late Cameron Garnick, of the Triangle C Ranch, once pointed out. “Traveling at four-five miles an hour, horses can cover lots of territory and you can see much more because you are not having to watch the trail.” In a short time riders can be deep into the mountains and “you’re doing it the way it was done

by Indians, mountain men, and cowboys,” Garnick continued.

TRAIL RIDES

Even if loping off into the horizon was not on your agenda, finding a horse to ride couldn’t be easier. No matter where one travels in the West, trail rides are available. They range from onehour ride to full-day rides. “It is a great Western experience and good family fun,” said Laura

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Child of the A-OK Corral and Willow Creek Horseback Rides. Jackson Hole is known for its cowboy and mountain man heritage and “that is the way they saw it, so by going on a horseback ride you can step back in time and see it like they would have,” she continued.

Never been on a horse? Not a problem. The two outfitters accommodate both beginners and experienced riders from age six and up.

“Most of our riders have never been on a horse.

It’s fun to take inexperienced people and see the big smiles on their faces and the satisfaction when they learn to ride. The thrill of just being on the back of a horse,” she added, “is part of the great Western experience, seeing the country like the mountain men did.”

Next, decide how much time you have to spend in the saddle. Like most outfitters, the A-OK Corral and Willow Creek offer a variety of options, ranging from one-hour to all-day rides. Their most popular is the two-hour ride that takes you up to get great views of the valley and mountains. One of the rides from

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Above: Trail rides afford easy access to remote mountain terrain.

Below: Far from city lights, the star-filled sky above a backcountry camp glows in the night.

Bob Woodall

By Bob Woodall

Bob Woodall

A-OK Corral takes clients on a one-hour mosey along the banks of the Snake River. “That trail is flat and easy going, perfect for the beginner,” said Child.

While outings from the A-OK are more lowkey, Willow Creek rides can be more adventurous. “We have unique trail rides for groups up to eight and are able to customize rides and pack trips to fit your desires,” she continued. All of this outfit’s rides make a full loop and don't take the same trail out and back. Riders, then, are constantly taking in new scenery and views of the forest and wilderness, with some of the trails climbing to over 8,000 feet and affording breath-taking views of the Grand Teton Mountain Range in the distance.

The mountain trails wind through the Douglas firs, lodge pole pine, blue sagebrush, and Alpine wildflowers. Child said, “Along the way you may see Rocky Mountain Elk, mule deer, Shiras Moose, red tailed hawks, and American Bald Eagles.”

If that’s not enough, Willow Creek also features extended trips, as well as fishing trips in the Gros Ventre and Snake River ranges.

For the ultimate trail ride, sign on for an overnight or multi-day pack experience.

Clear mountain streams and majestic vistas reward riders who venture away from the crowds astride a horse. ilies and travelers who on short notice decide to indulge in the adventure. Those trips usually are available in July and August after mountain snow has retreated and the hills explode with wildflowers.

DRESS THE PART

“You get the real experience of the backcountry. It gets you away from it all, away from cellphones, away from all of that.”

“It is a really neat trip,” said Child. “You get the real experience of getting in the backcountry as it takes you back in where the only way to get there is either horseback or on foot. It gets you away from it all, away from cellphones, away from all of that.”

After a three-hour ride to camp, guests can settle into their wall tents or, if on a fishing trip, grab their rod and hit the stream, or go for a trail ride. Maybe even wander in a meadow or forest and experience the quiet of the wilderness on foot.

After a good ol' Western home-cooked dinner, cozy up to the warm glow of an open campfire for S’mores under a star-filled canopy. Breakfast is served along with real cowboy coffee.

Extended trips can even accommodate fam-

Now that you’re going to hit the trail, dress the part. You don’t need to go out and dude yourself up in full cowboy regalia, but a few items will make the ride more enjoyable. Cowboy boots are best, although any closed-toed shoes are fine. Sandals are not recommended.

Long pants and a hat are advisable, and because the weather can change rapidly here in the real West, bring a raincoat. Also on the short list are insect repellant, sunscreen, sunglasses, water bottle, camera, and binoculars.

most authentic experience.

A proper dude ranch regales its guests with the romance of the West for a full week. Dudes are pampered in a rustic setting offering a full plate of activities, including daily trail rides, cookouts, campfires, Western sing-alongs, and rodeos. Ranches tailor their weeks for singles, couples, families, and groups.

You’re smack dab in the middle of The West, so take advantage of it! Whether it’s for two hours or a whole week.

Saddle up – and happy trails to you!

DUDE RANCH VACATION

If a couple days in the saddle have not reined in your desire for an Old West vacation, consider the ultimate cowboy-up experience: a full week at a dude ranch.

In the 1880s the term “dude” was applied to dressed-up city slickers, especially to Easterners vacationing in the West and who affected elaborate “Wild West” getups as paying visitors at a “dude ranch.” Some places call themselves “guest” ranches nowadays, but seek out ones that have not scrubbed the “dude” from their name. Those will be the ranches offering the

Hourly Mountain Trail Rides in the Bridger-Teton National Forest With Beautiful Teton Views Only horseback ride in Jackson Hole that is 100% on Bridger-Teton National Forest

307-733-7086 9500 S. Bryans Flat Rd., Jackson, Wyoming www.fishjacksonwyo.com Equal Opportunity Service Provider, Permittee of BTNF

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MOUNTAIN BIKING

Wade McKoy photos; Riders: Laura Quinlivan (left), Holly McKoy (right).

Jackson Hole, a treasure trove of singletrack.

Expansive views of Jackson Hole reward cyclists who pause for a break on Phillips Ridge.

M

iles of singletrack offer mountain bikers many options for cross-country and downhill rides.

Leading the charge in the nascent mountain-bike era, the Bridger Teton National Forest, Friends of Pathways, and Teton Freedom Riders cooperated in the design and construction of the intricate trail systems on Teton Pass and the Cache/Game Creek area. They manned the trail crews, too, and labored alongside volunteers from a wide range of organizations, including the Boy Scouts of America. Teton Freedom Riders volunteers were instrumental in design and construction of the downhill-only trails on Teton Pass.

Check out these invaluable organizations at friendsofpathways.org and tetonfreedomriders.org.

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TETON PASS

Cyclists can ride from downtown Wilson up the paved Old Pass Road (non-motorized vehicles only, 2,000-plus-foot climb) to the top of 8,416-foot Teton Pass. Downhill specialists often drive up the pass to the Phillips Canyon trailhead to access Jimmy’s Mom, a super fun and tech-y downhill-only trail.

Cross-country cyclists also park at Phillips to ride the magnificent, high-alpine Arrow, Sno-Tel, Phillips Ridge, and Phillips Canyon trails. The trailhead at the top of the pass accesses loop possibilities with the Black Canyon trail, and Lithium – another downhillonly route. Or head west to Mail Cabin Creek or Idaho’s Mike Harris trailhead.

TETON VILLAGE

The Jackson Hole Bike Park in Teton Village is all the rage, and it’s designed to ac-

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commodate experts and novices alike. Ride up Teewinot chairlift with your bike and cruise down one of six different trails assigned difficulty ratings similar to those of ski trails. It was designed and built by Gravity Logic, one of the world’s premier mountain-bike park developers. Tabletop jumps allow novice riders to catch air and land safely. Banked-turn sections feel like a roller coaster ride. The flow and rhythm keep bikers coming back to the chairlift for another lap.

The Jackson Hole Mountain Resort also maintains seven miles of single-track that traverse the lower mountain from Après Vous to the Hobacks. Rolling and winding with the ski terrain, this route was designed and built by year-round resort workers – skiers – and is a fun, short mountain bike-tour.

Expert cyclists might choose to climb the

Phillips Ridge Trail on Teton Pass links riders to a long loop from downtown Wilson. rocky dirt road to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain and ride the tram back down free of charge (downhill riding is prohibited above the top of the Gondola).

Pick up a map from any employee.

GRAND TARGHEE

Over the past few years, Grand Targhee Resort has added over 20 miles to their mountain bike trails, which offer spectacular views of the surrounding area. And starting at 8,000 feet in elevation, it’s cool even on the hottest days.

The Grand Targhee Loop is a 27-mile ride that winds through wildflower-strewn alpine meadows, forests of conifer and aspen, and high-alpine terrain. The ride features grand views of the majestic Tetons, the greater Yellowstone region, and Teton Valley. Named an Epic Ride by the International Mountain Bicycling Association, it meets the criteria as a “de-

In Downtown Wilson

At the Base of Teton Pass Next to Pearl Street Bagels

Your Biking Headquarters SALES • SERVICE • RENTALS

307-733-5228

wilsonbackcountry.com

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The Arrow Trail, a popular singletrack on Teton Pass, gives riders a high-altitude tour of the Tetons’ southern terminus.

Wade McKoy photos; Riders: Unknown (top); Lynsey Dyer (left)

manding, single-track adventure in a natural setting, celebrating true backcountry riding experiences that are technically and physically challenging.” Epic Rides must also be more than 80 percent single-track and at least 20 miles in overall length.

Targhee also has a Mountain Bike Skills Park, located near the base of the Dreamcatcher lift, where cyclists of all levels can practice and improve their riding technique on a variety of routes and features.

Pick up a map at the activity center.

GREATER SNOW KING AREA

Visitors to Jackson can ride the Greater Snow King Area directly from their hotel. Or drive to the Cache Creek trailhead, where numerous single tracks veer off in every direction.

Large maps at trailhead kiosks give bikers a bird’s-eye view of numerous single-tracks throughout Cache Creek, Game Creek, and Snow King Mountain. Riders can combine trails to create journeys that are short, long, or epic.

Several possibilities make for day-long rides that cover dozens of miles, with big climbs and long winding descents.

New separate-use trails from the Putt-Putt trailhead on Nelson Drive improve safety and enjoyment for walkers, horse riders, and mountain bikers.

The new Skyline Trail’s first mile was built from the top of Ferrin’s trail. Construction will continue through the summer to connect Skyline Trail with the Game Creek Trail at the CacheGame divide.

Plan accordingly. Free maps at friendsofpathways.org/resources, a local nonprofit advocacy group.

ETIQUETTE

Bikers must yield to all other users on forest trails. Expect to see hikers and horse riders on

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Many area trails send bike riders on a cruise among fields of wildflowers. many of these routes. Cyclists riding downhill should yield to cyclists riding up.

No trail user should be deaf. Turn down those tunes so you can still hear other people coming…and the lions, moose, and bears that, rest assured, are out there, too.

Ride open trails only. Respect wilderness and national park closures and private property.

Give wildlife a wide berth.

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When cycling on the paved pathway system, alert others (bells and an audible indicating which side—left or right—should be standard for cyclists) when approaching from behind and pass them respectfully and safely. Pedestrians have the right of way—and they too help fund the maintenance and existence of pathways!

Happy trails!

— Adventure Guide

COMMUNITY PATHWAYS S

A mountain town success story

By Mike Calabrese

Bob Woodall photos

afe to say, there isn’t a more recreation-oriented community in mountain country than Jackson Hole. And its pathways system, coursing along 56 miles of the valley floor and still growing, is solid proof of a love affair with the outdoors.

On any given day of the year, folks around here are walking, cycling, running, skiing, skating, ambling—just plain moving—along some part of this scenic, non-motorized vehicle pathway system.

On the books, another 15 miles by 2017 and 42 more miles planned for Grand Teton National Park. Not bad, considering the first installment back in 1996 was a scant four miles of completed pathway.

The skyrocketing use of the pathways system helps convey people along all parts of the valley, the result of a healthy cooperative effort between public and private initiative. It’s helped move Jackson Hole to the forefront of alternative transportation. New signage provides a countywide directions system that’s informational and attractive.

National Bike Share Demonstration personnel visited Jackson for three weeks last summer. Bike Share user surveys will supply data to evaluate the potential for a full-time system here.

For more information on pathways and trails, visit the Friends Of Pathways website at friendsofpathways.org.

R Park Pathways Bridge

RENDEZVOUS PARK: R PARK

At the heart of the valley’s newest crossroads lies the 40-acre R Park, where the pathways’ world and the region’s largest citizen-spawned park converge. The charming refuge holds beautiful ponds, trails, open grasslands, and trees. Its landmark flag-topped knoll, accessible to everyone on foot, boasts a commanding view of the entire preserve.

The R Park, rests nearly up against the Wilson Snake River boat launch and the stunning pathways bridge arcing over the famous waters. Leaving the camera behind would be a mistake. Views of the waters rushing below and the long expanse of the Teton Range warrant framing. Recessed rest areas on the bridge allow for simply taking in the sights, too.

In another example of cooperative spirit, R Park offers a passel of activities from the ground up. Stargazing and weekly tours, for example, all kick off with a meeting at the park’s landscaped knoll.

SAFETY ETIQUETTE

High-velocity cyclists and pedestrians don’t mix well. Cyclists moving along the pathways should remember to signal their approach with a bell or voice and reveal their intentions to pass (generally) on the left.

Walkers, joggers, and rollerbladers (and other cyclists) should acknowledge the ap-

Grand Teton National Park Pathways proaching cyclist’s signal with a raised hand or a head nod. All too often, people’s ear-bud music makes them deaf to the audible signals of others approaching from behind. This can leave the cyclist wondering if the other pathway user will abruptly veer into them and wreck everybody’s day.

Next, Fido. Some sections of the pathways do not allow dogs, leashed or otherwise. Respect that. And clean up the dookies. PAWS, the local pet advocacy and wellness support organization, has installed and supplies over

150,000 mutt-mitts at 60 stations throughout the valley. No one, not even a pet owner, enjoys sliding around on dog-greased pathways or sidewalks.

MAPS

For stellar maps and a complete rundown of the pathways system and its amenities, visit friendsofpathways.org. To preview the R Park, drop by rendezvouslandsconservancy.org or just Google R Park in Jackson Hole.

Mike Calabrese is a musician, writer, and editor in this valley so sweet.

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Jackson Hole Lodging Guide Hostel

Grand Targhee Resort Grand Targhee Resort offers affordable lodging options at the base of the mountain or vacation rentals in Teton Valley. Enjoy convenient access to summer adventures including mountain biking, hiking, horseback riding, fly fishing, and much more.

Enjoy a comfortable & affordable stay in Teton Village at the base of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. We have private rooms & beds in shared bunkrooms, both include a private bathroom.

WiFi and organic coffee service included.

High season: $99–$129; Low season: $49–$89 Bunk room: $20–45

Alta, Wyoming 83414 1-800-TARGHEE 307-353-2300 www.GrandTarghee.com

Box 583, Teton Village, Wyoming 83025 307-733-3415 www.thehostel.us, info@thehostel.us

Jackson Hole Super 8

Jackson Hole Hideout B&B

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Hot Tub Sauna

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750 South Hwy 89, POB 1382 Jackson, WY 83001 800-800-8000 / 307-733-6833 www.jacksonholesuper8.com jacksonholesuper8@wyom.net Swimming Pool

Grand Targhee Resort Hostel Jackson Hole Hideout B&B Jackson Hole Super 8

Continental Breakfast

LODGING FACILITY

Restaurant Bar

Conveniently located in the heart of Wilson, this beautifully handcrafted lodge style B&B is sure to please.

Set into the hillside amidst soaring evergreens, the Hideout features five individually decorated guest rooms with private bathrooms and patios, fresh hot breakfasts, and 24/7 access to a coffee and snack bar.

Rates

6175 Heck Of A Hill Road, Wilson 307-733-3233 info@jacksonholehideout.com www.jacksonholehideout.com

Experience true Western hospitality in the heart of Jackson Hole. Just steps away from the free city bus, river rafting, and other recreation. Complimentary breakfast, evening popcorn, free high speed WIFI, microwave/refrigerator, and cable TV with HBO. Group Rates Available.

• •

Based on Double Occupancy:($) Cost Per Night up to $100; ($$) Cost Per Night up to $250; ($$$) Cost Per Night over $250

JEWELRY – ART – GIFTS Dan Shelley Jewelers – 13 Hines Goldsmiths – 22

KIDS SHOPS Teton Toys – 20

LODGING Jackson Hole Super 8 – 4

RECREATION-FISHING-RIVER TRIPS Alpine Slide & Roller Coaster – 28 Grand Teton Flyfishing –15 Hole Bowl – 7 JH Mountain Guides – 1 Rendezvous River Sports – 6 Sands Whitewater – 3 & 18 Snow King Scenic Chairlift – 27 Snow King Mini-Golf – 28 Treetop Adventures – 28

RESTAURANTS – CAFÉS Häagen–Dazs – 24 JH Buffalo Meat Company – 1 JH Playhouse & Saddle Rock Saloon – 9 McDonald’s of Jackson Hole – 5 Pinky G’s Pizzeria – 19 Pinsetter Restaurant – 7 Snake River Brewery & Restaurant – 17

MEDICAL SERVICES St. John’s Family Health & Urgent Care – 2 St. John’s Medical Center – 26 Teton Orthopaedics – 25

SPORTS SHOPS & APPAREL Chester’s JH Harley Davidson – 16 Jackson Hole Resort Store – 23 TO: MEAD RANCH

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Bob Woodall

OF ADVERTISERS IndexINDEX of Advertisers

AERIAL ADVENTURE COURSES, ZIPLINES, TREETOP ADVENTURES

ENTERTAINMENT, MUSIC, WEDDINGS, CONVENTIONS & PARTIES CODY, WYOMING

JACKSON HOLE AERIAL ADVENTURE COURSE pg 92 SLEEPING GIANT ZIP LINE 307-587-3125 pg 39

PARK COUNTY TRAVEL COUNCIL 1-800-390-2639 pg 33

GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING

SNOW KING TREETOP ADVENTURES 307-201-KING PG 38

ALPINE SLIDE, ALPINE ROLLER COASTER, BUNGEE TRAMPOLINE, DISK & MINI-GOLF

GRAND TARGHEE MUSIC FESTIVALS pg 51

COWBOY COASTER-SNOW KING MOUNTAIN 307-201-KING pg 43

MEAD RANCH 307-733-3911 pg 17 TETON VILLAGE 307-733-2292 pg 92 NOTEWORTHY MUSIC BOOKING AGENCY 307-733-5459 pg 89

GRAND TARGHEE RESORT DISK GOLF 1-800-TARGHEE pg 51 JACKSON HOLE BUNGEE TRAMPOLINE 307-739-2654 pg 92

JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT 307-733-2292 pg 92

SNOW KING MOUNTAIN MINI-GOLF 307-201-KING pg 43

HORSEBACK RIDING & PACK TRIPS

APPAREL & GIFTS

A-OK CORRAL 307-733-6556 pg 83

JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT 307-733-4159 pg 17 JACKSON HOLE RESORT STORE 307-739-2654 pg 92 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS 307-739-2687 pg 92 TETON VILLAGE SPORTS307-732-4058 pg 92

JACKSON HOLE’S GENERAL STORE 307-732-4090 pg 92 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS 307-739-2687 pg 92 RENDEZVOUS RIVER SPORTS 307-733-2471 pg 65 SNOW KING MOUNTAIN 307-201-KING pg 43 WESTBANK ANGLERS 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474 pg 71 WILSON BACKCOUNTRY SPORTS 307-733-5228 pg 85

BOWLING LANES & ARCADE HOLE BOWL & PINSETTER RESTAURANT 307-201-5426 pg 31

BOATING, SCENIC & WHITEWATER CODY, WYOMING PARK COUNTY TRAVEL COUNCIL 1-800-390-2639 pg 33

JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING JACKSON HOLE KAYAK SCHOOL 307-733-2471 pg 65 O.A.R.S. 800-346-6277 pg 63 RENDEZVOUS RIVER SPORTS 307-733-2471 pg 65 SANDS WILDWATER RIVER TRIPS 800-358-8184 pg 61

CHAIRLIFTS, TRAM, GONDOLA GRAND TARGHEE RESORT 1-800-TARGHEE pg 51 JACKSON HOLE AERIAL TRAM 307-739-2654 pg 92 JACKSON HOLE BRIDGER GONDOLA 307-739-2654 pg 92 SNOW KING MOUNTAIN 307-201-KING pg 43

CLIMBING GUIDES & CLIMBING WALLS GRAND TARGHEE CLIMBING WALL 1-800-TARGHEE PG 51 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN GUIDES 307-733-4979 pg 75 JH MOUNTAIN RESORT CLIMBING WALL 307-739-2654 pg 92 SNOW KING TETON BOULDER PARK 307-201-KING pg 43 VIA FERATTA 307-739-2654 pg 77

w w w. ye l l ows to n e a d ve n t u re g u i d e. co m

JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT pg 92 McDONALD’S® OF JACKSON HOLE 307-733-7444 pg 13 MEAD RANCH NATURAL BEEF 307-733-3911 pg 17 PALATE @ NMWA 307-733-5771 pg 27 PINSETTER RESTAURANT & HOLE BOWL 307-201-5426 pg 31 PINKY G’S PIZZERIA 307-734-PINK (7465) pg 29 SNAKE RIVER BREWERY & RESTAURANT 307-739-BEER pg 31 WESTSIDE WINE & SPIRITS 307-733-5038 pg 29

RODEO CODY NITE RODEO 307-587-5155 or 800-207-0744 pg 37

GRAND TARGHEE RESORT 1-800-TARGHEE pg 51 CODY & PARK COUNTY TRAVEL COUNCIL 800-390-2639 pg 33 WILLOW CREEK HORSEBACK RIDES 307-733-7086 pg 83

JEWELRY

SHOOTING JACKSON HOLE SHOOTING EXPERIENCE 307-690-7921 pg 81

VISITOR CENTERS & MUSEUMS CO DY, WYO M I N G

JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING

BIKING, CAMPING, FISHING, HIKING PARK COUNTY TRAVEL COUNCIL 800-390-2639 pg 33 FRIENDS OF PATHWAYS 307-733-4534 pg 87 GRAND TARGHEE RESORT 800-TARGHEE pg 51 GRAND TETON FLY FISHING 307-690-0910 pg 69

PISTE MOUNTAIN BISTRO 307-739-2654 pg 92 HÄAGEN-DAZS ICE CREAM 307-739-1880 pg 29 JH BUFFALO MEAT 800-543-6328 / 733-4159 pg 17

DANSHELLEY JEWELERS 307-733-2259 pg 3 HINES GOLDSMITHS 307-733-5599 pg 9

KIDS STORE & TOYS

BUFFALO BILL DAM & VISITOR CENTER 307-727-6076 pg 35 CODY CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 800-390-2639 pg 33

D U BO I S, WYO M I N G NATIONAL BIGHORN 307-455-3429 pg 21

TETON TOYS 307-200-6066 pg 29

SHEEP

INTERPRETIVE

CENTER

J AC K SO N H O LE, WYO M I N G

LODGING CODY, WYOMING

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF WILDLIFE ART OF THE UNITED STATES 307-733-5771 pg 27

CODY & PARK COUNTY TRAVEL COUNCIL 800-390-2639 pg 33

GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING GRAND TARGHEE RESORT 1-800-TARGHEE pg 51 & 88

JACKSON & WILSON, WYOMING

WILDLIFE SAFARIS & SCENIC TOURS J AC K SO N H O LE, WYO M I N G ECOTOUR ADVENTURES 307-690-9533 pg 25 & 91

JACKSON HOLE HIDEOUT B & B 307-733-3233 pg 88 SUPER 8 800-800-8000/307-733-6833 pg 88

TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING HOSTEL 307-733-3415 pg 88 JACKSON HOLE RESORT LODGING 800-443-8613 pg 92

MEDICAL SERVICES & EMERGENCY CARE

NOTEWORTHY MUSIC BOOKING AGENCY

ST. JOHN’S FAMILY HEALTH & URGENT CARE 307-739-8999 pg 55 ST. JOHN’S EMERGENCY DEPARTMENT 307-733-3636 pg 2 ST. JOHN’S MEDICAL CENTER 307-739-6199 pg 2 TETON ORTHOPAEDICS 307-733-3900 pg 57

MOTOR CYCLE SHOP CHESTER’S JACKSON HOLE HARLEY-DAVIDSON 307-7391500 pg 79

PARAGLIDING JH PARAGLIDING 307-739-2626 pg 92 SNOW KING MOUNTAIN 307-201-KING pg 41

RESTAURANTS, BARS & LIQUOR STORES GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING GRAND TARGHEE pg 51

• The finest live music acts in the region • Jazz • Swing • Rock • Country Solos • Duos • Trios & Big Band • Impeccable references

Michael Calabrese 307-733-5459 P.O. Box 289 • Wilson, WY 83014 www.noteworthymusicagency.com jhnoteworthy@gmail.com

JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING

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• MADISON • MORAN • FIREHOLE • GIBBON • TEEWINOT • ROOSEVELT LODGE • WASHBURN • JENNY LAKE • LEIGH LAKE • NORRIS • GALLATIN • WIND RIVER • ABSAROKA • WAPITI VALLEY

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90 90 G R A NG DRTAENTD ON E L&L O WLSLTOOWNSET O AN DE V EANDTVUER GRUEI DGEU I2D0E1 72 0 1 5 T E& T OYN YE NET U 2015

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