Jackson Hole Skier Magazine 2009

Jackson Hole

skier

2009

WINTER VISITOR’S GUIDE

FREE

. . . Inviting you to our

35th Anniversary

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Est. 1973

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862 W. BROADWAY • 733-3287

CUSTOM JEWELRY

BY JETER CASE In the log cabin next to Teton Theatre just off the town square 132 N. Cache Jackson Hole, Wyoming

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SKI • BIKE • BOARD • HIKE

“The Locals’ Shop” 520 W. BROADWAY OPEN DAILY

SKIS, BOOTS, & BINDINGS:

On Broadway across from Bubba’s

SNOWBOARDS:

Burton • Arbor • Prior Nitro • Salomon • Vans CLOTHING:

Obermeyer • Orage • Bonfire Sherpa • Burton • Oakley DEMOS A RENTALS A REPAIR A SKIS

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OUTWEAR

Photo: Wade McKoy / Focus Productions Skier: Jeff Leger

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Volkl • Rossignol Dalbello • Tecnica Marker • Salomon • Full Tilt

32 years of inspiration at 6,000 feet

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jackson hole2008/2009 skier the resorts

24 Jackson Hole

34 The Tram Builders

38 Vertical-Foot Ski Records 40 Open-Boundary Protocol

41 Terrain Park & Superpipe 42 Snow King

46 Grand Targhee 52 White Pine

the backcountry 12 Teton Skiing

54 Mountain Guides

64 Teton Pass Ambassador 66 Avalanche Education Skiers: Cover—Jason Tattersall Contents—Lynsey Dyer

Cover and contents photos: Wade McKoy

staff

Publishers: Bob Woodall and Wade McKoy d.b.a. Focus Productions, Inc.(FPI) Editors: Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall, Mike Calabrese Copy Editor: Mike Calabrese Photo Editors: Eric Rohr, Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall Art Director: Janet Melvin Advertising Sales: Kyli Fox, FPI Distribution Manager: Jeff Leger Editorial Assistant: Eric Rohr

contributing photographers

Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall, Henry H. Holdsworth, Jimmy Chin, Jonathan Selkowitz, Tristan Grezsko, Reed Finlay, Matt Haines

The JACKSON HOLE SKIER annual winter visitor’s guide is free when picked up at one of 160 distribution points throughout Jackson Hole. Receive one in the mail by sending $5 to Focus Productions Inc, P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming 83001.

Copyright—2008/2009 by Focus Productions, Inc. (FPI). All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher.

68 Helicopter & Snowcat Skiing

other stuff

8 Wildlife and National Parks

17 Activities Beyond the Slopes 18 XC Ski Centers

20 Made in Jackson Hole 72 Snowmobiling

76 Mushers & Sled Dogs 79 Business Directory 82 Lodging Directory 84 Resort Maps

86 Town of Jackson Map

See JH SKIER online @ focusproductions.com and jhskier.net

Watching Winter

N

Story by Ben Kinkade

o other region in the country can touch the breadth of natural wonders, wildlife, and scenery embraced by the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem (GYE).

The GYE, 18 million acres of the largest intact temperate-zone ecosystems on earth, comprises the National Elk Refuge, Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks, and six national forests. The GYE is home to a breathtaking diversity of flora and fauna, including the country’s largest free-roaming herds of bison and elk, and a recovering population of large predators, including grizzly bear, gray wolves, and mountain lions.

With so much to see, where does one start?

A good place is near the picturesque mountain town of Jackson, Wyoming. The town lies on the south end of Jackson Hole, a 50-mile-long valley dividing Grand Teton National Park, and is bordered by the National Elk Refuge, the Caribou-Targhee and BridgerTeton national forests.

The jump-off spot for wildlife viewing is the National Elk Refuge. The nearly 25,000-acre refuge was established in 1912 to set aside shrinking critical winter habitat for elk and other species.

Rocky Mountain elk make their way to the refuge starting in October and will often stay until early April. During the most severe months, refuge personnel, working from horse-drawn sleighs, provide feed for an average of 7,500 wintering elk. Visitors can see the process up close and personal by hopping on one of the sleighs, which leave several times daily across from the National Museum of Wildlife Art. Alternatively, drive or travel with an area guide service onto the east side of the refuge to view red fox, golden eagles, bighorn sheep and, possibly, gray wolves or a mountain lion. The refuge is also winter home to an impressive herd of bison, and its buttes keep deer within easy range of predators all winter long.

More adventurous winter enthusiasts might consider guided dog sled runs or snowmobile trips. Outfitters depart from Jackson or Teton Village and journey onto area national forests, where bountiful pristine wilderness vistas await.

Next stop north, Grand Teton National Park (GTNP). Created

Bison crossing the steaming landscape of Roaring Mountain, Yellowstone National Park. Below: Pelican, beaver, owl.

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Photos by Henry H. Holdsworth, Wild by Nature Gallery

In Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks

From top: Elk herd on the National Elk Refuge; bison herd on the run in Yellowstone National Park; sleepy coyote in Grand Teton; travertine terraces and dead lodgepole pine trees, Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone; black fox, magpies, and moose in Wilson.

in 1950, it has been voted the best park in our country for wildlife viewing and tabbed the "Alps of North America." One could easily spend an entire vacation here.

Even in winter countless opportunities and destinations attract all types and levels of skiers, climbers, hikers, and snowshoers. See a park ranger at the stunning new Moose Visitor Center for more details and to schedule an informative, ranger-led snowshoe hike in the park.

Winter is the best time to see moose in and around Grand Teton Teton National Park. Because of the cold temperatures and extensive mountain snow cover, these ungainly but appealing ungulates move to the sagebrush flats to feed on bitterbrush and rabbit brush. Red fox, long-tailed weasels (ermines), the occasional bison, and coyote can also be seen here. Scan high perches for rough-legged hawks and eagles.

If your time in the southern GYE hasn't knocked your (two layers) of socks off, you're in for a treat should you decide to journey north to the world's first national park, Yellowstone.

Every inch of Yellowstone's more than two million acres is phenomenal. And though it's one of the coldest spots in the Lower 48, Yellowstone truly blossoms in winter.

Board a snow coach or snowmobile at Flagg Ranch (north of GTNP), the only way in from the south. Travelers can also enter through West Yellowstone and Mammoth, Montana, however. Drivers and guides provide a thorough overview along the trip.

The main destination for many visitors, regardless of the season, is Old Faithful, in the Upper Geyser Basin. Yellowstone boasts approximately half of the world's hydrothermal features and these warm areas are the destination for many wintering bison, elk, and moose. The heated thermal springs keep snow cover at bay and ed-

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Grand Teton National Park has been voted the best park in our country for wildlife viewing and tabbed the "Alps of North America." One could easily spend an entire vacation here.

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From top: Mount Moran at sunrise; wolf, moose, bighorn sheep in Yellowstone; bison in Jackson Hole.

park and Montana Department of Livestock personnel have gone to expensive measures to drive bison back into the park. The fear is that bison could spread disease to nearby domestic cattle. Bison re-exiting the park are often shipped to slaughter. Although disease is a valid concern, it's interesting to note that several private property owners have taken legal action against the government agencies in defense of bison and property rights.

This bison problem has been made more newsworthy by the large decrease in Yellowstone's bison population this year. Last au-

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tumn saw over 4,000 bison, while post-winter numbers dropped to just over 2,500. Slaughter and a hard winter are culprits.

Finally, visitors and wildlife enthusiasts can drive or join our guides to journey to the legendary Lamar Valley in Northern Range Yellowstone.

Dubbed "the Serengeti of North America," this is the best place to see the gray wolf. Re-introduced in 1995 and slowly making a comeback, this almost mythic species remains intriguing and controversial.

Our only prerequisites are that you have fun and travel safely.

Being prepared with survival tools like blankets, food, water, chains, etc., is key. Give animals and other vehicles plenty of space. Winter is hard on everybody and staying at least 50 yards away from most wintering animals is a good rule of thumb when viewing and enjoying the amazing array of winter wildlife.

Henry Holdsworth / Wild by Nature Gallery

ible plants exposed, making travel and dining a bit easier for animals.

Hydrothermal basins can be risky, however. Weak spots in the crust occur and wildlife sometimes crash through, scalding themselves with superheated water and steam.

The same goes for humans. Pay attention to the warnings posted around the geysers and thermal areas.

Appealing as the accommodating thermal areas are to large animals in winter, there might be a downside. Scientists have recently discovered that a concentrated amount of fluoride present in hydrothermal basins shortens by five years or more the lifespan of elk wintering here. The waters’ concentrated fluoride wears elk's teeth down at a much faster rate than those animals not wintering here.

If gregarious mega fauna isn’t your main thing, snowshoe around the geyser basins and check out the multi-colored bacterial mats that appear to be crawling along the edges of thermal features. Thermophiles, heat-loving microorganisms like bacteria, live in these sub-boiling zones with a variety of algaes and archaea.

A newly discovered enzyme called Xtreme Xylanase, also found in Yellowstone’s waters, can tolerate extreme temperatures and very acidic environments. This enzyme may help us produce an alternative fuel and other chemicals using biomass. The findings are fascinating and the idea of one day replacing polluting and foreign fuel by a discovery made in the park is thrilling.

Onto Mammoth, the lowest elevation spot in Yellowstone, where wintering pronghorn antelope and bison often wander just outside the park. A concern for many years,

Ben Kinkade is a wildlife biologist guide with Wildlife Expeditions, a freelance photojournalist, and a ghostwriter. In his spare time, he works on photography shows, songwriting, and volunteering.

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Stories from the Wild

Teton Skiing “Many mountain buffs enter the Tetons during winter and spring.

With skis as their mode of transport, these wayward adventurers set objectives as spectacular as the mountains themselves. And though skiers have wandered among these walls and spires since the 1930s, each trip feels like a pioneering effort.”

— Tom Turiano, from his book Teton Skiing, A History & Guide to the Teton Range

North-facing couloirs hold good snow for skier Dave Coon. Among the massive jumble of granite on the skyline: the South Teton, Middle Teton, Grand Teton, Nez Perce, and other peaks.

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Pepi Stiegler Backcountry touring is the kind of sport that doesn’t need any promotion, it seems to me, like mountain climbing doesn’t need any promotion. It promotes itself by the people that are doing it. Promotion, advertisement, commercialization spoils the whole thing. The citizens who appreciate this kind of quiet and remote activity, they don’t want it promoted. They just go up and enjoy it.

The conditions last year were exceptionally good. However, sometimes, like in late winter, you could get yourself into breakable crust, which I did. The funny thing is, when you tour up the mountain, breakable crust is just fine. It makes you actually go faster. Then, when you turn around— my god! It took me coming down as long as it took me going up. Just about every turn, my butt went into the snow. Ha! That’s something backcountry skiers will do, though.

They don’t just go up for the quality of skiing. They go up for the quality of the experience. Seeing the mountains, blue sky or not, it’s a great experience. As long as you don’t get hurt.

I never had a close call with an avalanche. I never put myself into an iffy situation. I may ski onto a slope that’s not good, by misjudging. But when the conditions are iffy, if they ever were iffy last year, then I wouldn’t ski. If the snow amount is so enormous, I wait a day or two. Because if you go too quick, the danger is high. I don’t play the risky game at all. That’s not the point of my touring. If you wait another day, so what? It doesn’t matter.

Dave Coon A lot of my ski tours are a mix of nature and skiing. With so much of the day spent in tour mode, we see stuff not normally noticed from the car. Like hundreds of giant, glistening hoar frosts at our feet, untouched by the sun. Or the hue of the moon setting over the Tetons while the sun’s first light illuminates the highest peaks. Most days feature endless soli-

Wade McKoy photos

Joe Egolf follows his friends into the wild.

Coner Horigan hikes a windswept ridge in the southern Tetons.

Left: Dave Coon and Gail Jensen admire the view of Buck and Wister mountains. w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

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Nate Siegler in powder snow, southern Tetons.

Kit DesLauriers in the Ford Couloir, Grand Teton.

tude, untracked snow, and countless wildlife observations. You see such cool stuff.

One morning last May we got an alpine start for a day trip into the Tetons. The skinning was easy, the snow hard enough to support us but not too hard for our skins to bite. We picked up a set of wolverine tracks at about 9,500 feet. It had walked up the ridge and we followed its tracks for about a mile. It was ducking in and out of rock crevasses on either side of the ridge with no apparent regard for the exposure. It’s amazing that wolverines can cover that much ground on steep terrain, and go all day, all night long.

At one point on top of the ridge, the tracks took a steep line down into Avalanche Canyon via a line we deemed to gnarly to ski. We picked up the tracks again after skiing a more reasonable line down through excellent powder and stopping near the forks of Avalanche Canyon.

While we didn’t have an actual sighting, it was a special experience to witness the romp of a wolverine in search of food. It made us look a little wimpy after realizing how much terrain they can cover without skis.

That day was special.

Dustin Varga

Photographers, clockwise from top left: Reed Finlay; Wade McKoy; Bob Woodall; Henry Holdsworth / Wild by Nature Gallery; Jimmy Chin

Steve Romeo in the Southeast Couloir, Buck Mountain.

Me and my buddy Rocky decided we would snowboard the Northeast Ramp of Mount St. Johns, an amazing line in the Tetons I’ve been looking at for almost 20 years. Unfortunately, the night before we went up there we got six inches of snow—this was early April—but we decided we’d go ahead and go for it.

We left the car at 4:30 a.m., but by the time we got to the plateau below the east face we were already in waist-deep powder and we were like, “Uhoh,” and I said, “Rocky, we’re a little out of control.” It took us four-and-a-

Sunrise can create ethereal light on the Tetons, like this alpenglow on Cloudveil Dome, the Middle and Grand Tetons, Mt. Owen, and Teewinot.

that rule is kind of out the window these days.

It was quite strange and random. I remember one kid saying, “Holy Smoke! I had no idea where I was!” And Rocky and I are like, “Dude!”

“Most days feature endless solitude, untracked snow, and countless wildlife observations.

You see such cool stuff.”

—Dave Coon

Steve Romeo Jeff Leger on a steep southern Teton pitch.

half hours to get to the bottom of the ramp—that’s a long time—but conditions looked pretty good.

We were getting our crampons on and getting ready to start, looking up there…and that entire thing rips. The entire thing! And I said, “This thing’s gonna come and kill us right now!” And the next thing you know, I see some dude ripping turns all the way down that sucker—man— releasing the biggest avalanches that came pouring over that thing. The whole time he’s skiing it, we’re like, “Holy crap!”

About an hour later, after four more people came down and kicked every bit of snow that was up there down onto our heads, it made me stop and think about the way we used to ski things in the mountains: you climb what you ski. I think

This was our third attempt on the Southeast Couloir of Buck Mountain. Reed Finlay and I decided not to climb the route this time, but to go up the standard East Face route instead, mainly to reduce our exposure in the couloir. With moderate-to-considerable avalanche danger that day, we didn’t want to be in the direct line of snow and rock above the couloir when the sun came out.

Everything went smoothly on the climb. We began our descent and peered down the couloir, looked at each other, and said, “Well, are we gonna do it?”

It’s always a mystery, not climbing what you ski, especially if it’s a rappel situation. You’ve got to find clues: What are you getting into? What is the availability of anchors? What are the snow

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conditions? It’s a little nerve-wracking standing up there wondering what to do.

But Reed said he was up for it. He made a few turns and went down into the couloir. We slowly leap-frogged our way down. We had a little bit of excitement when a six-to-ten inch slab ripped out on one of my turns. It could have done some damage. Reed ducked behind a safe zone—which luckily was truly safe—and got out of the way.

Luckily for me, it didn’t rip higher up in the couloir. If it had, there is a good chance it would’ve taken me down with it.

The couloir rolls over steeply at the lower cliff band. It was a little intimidating, so we played it safe and skied one-at-a-time down to the edge. As

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the East Face They looked puzzled about where “It’s cool to look up at your our tracks went, wondering what in the world was going on there. tracks when you’re done, a real satisfying feeling of acKit DesLauriers I skied the Grand with Jimmy Chin in June on complishment.”—Steve Romeo we built the anchor, the weather deteriorated a bit.

That’s stressful—freezing your rear end off, building an anchor, doing all the rope work.

It’s cool to look up at your tracks when you’re done, a real satisfying feeling of accomplishment.

Another Teton descent off the tick list. We saw other people hiking, following our boot-pack up

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the six-month birthday of my newborn-daughter Grace. Afterwards, I called it Triple Tribute in honor of Bill Briggs, Doug Coombs, and Grace.

We paid tribute to Bill by climbing his original route, the Stettner Couloir, instead of the usual route of the Stettner, Chevy, and Ford couloirs.

Jimmy was leading, and when he suggested we keep going up Briggs’s route I laughed, because it gets really steep at the top of the Stettner. On the other climbs I’d look up and say, “Whew! I’m glad I’m not going that way!” But I took a deep breath and said, “Okay.” I knew I was not in over my head. It was so filled-in that it was much easier than usual.”

We summited and skied the normal route, and it was unbelievably gorgeous. At the bottom of the Ford Couloir, Jimmy wanted to rap the Chevy with his skis on, and I’m like, “Why?” It can be awkward. He wanted to because he had done it with Coombs, and that was good enough for me.

It took some advanced yoga moves, the two of us moving around each other while half hanging from the anchors and half standing on our skis, taking turns facing down the slope in the figure11 position. But the rappel with skis on was the second tribute, to Doug. And it was fun, just like he would’ve found it to be.

I called it the Triple Tribute because I was home by 2 p.m. to breast feed my little baby, who’d survived on puréed peaches and water since I’d been gone. I’m not running off on huge expeditions right now, and my alpine starts have been of a different sort, getting up numerous times at night with her. So I paid tribute to Grace for picking me as her mom—as I walk the line of motherhood and mountain mama.

Wildlife Friendly Driving Tips

• Expect wildlife on our roads. This is Jackson Hole and we share this valley with wildlife.

• If you encounter an animal on a road with high snow banks, allow it to move down the road at its own pace, until it finds a place to jump off the road.

• Scan the sides of the roads for wildlife.

• Stay alert while driving; be prepared to stop.

• Wildlife cross roads primarily during dawn, dusk, and at night.

• If you see one elk, deer, or moose along a roadway, you are likely to see more.

• If you see an animal on the road, expect the unexpected. It doesn’t instinctively know how to react to your car. Give the animal time and room to move off the road. Do not try to outrun it.

• If you see a wildlife-crossing sign, pay attention. It’s there for a reason.

Beyond the Slopes Other activities and events to enjoy during your ski vacation

By Mike Calabrese

Bob Woodall (2); Henry Holdsworth / Wild by Nature Gallery (coyote)

Stroll the boardwalks on Jackson’s Town Square and see the elk arches, shops, and night skiing on Snow King Mountain.

whole shebang can be arranged at the center. And Shopping?

It may not be at the top of everyone’s list, but don’t forget the camera! it is on everyone’s list! And why not? I’m still shipWildlife Safari ping out Hungry Jack’s logo mugs and Mangy If you landed at our airport, or drove into our Moose t-shirts to relatives and friends after 35 valley from any direction, more than likely you years of living in Jackson Hole. And my wife and spotted some of our internationally famous I are still buying outdoor gear, art, and jewelry wildlife: the obvious notables, the big ones–the proffered right here in the valley. Sure, some of the elk, the deer, the moose, the national chains have cast bison. The very fauna that down their lot among the make Jackson Hole the cenJackson Hole enterprises, but ter of the universe for wildlife local businesses have created viewing. But the complex and maintained their own Yellowstone/Teton region is niches—all to the benefit of home to an ecosystem’s shoppers searching for that worth of equally impressive special something for themsmaller residents, including selves or the folks back home. wolves, lynx, bald eagles, otNo mega-malls in our valley— Prancing to the tune of life: a coyote ters, mountain lions, bighorn just real commerce, with real (above) and dancers (below). sheep, creatures that may be people, in real stores, in downrevealed only to a persistent few, or those smart town Jackson or right in the heart of Teton Village. enough to sign on to

Elk Refuge The only thing perhaps more breathtaking around here than the Tetons is the wildlife that inhabits the surrounding valley. To take them both in—at the same time, no less—climb aboard a horse-drawn sleigh and glide gracefully through thousands of majestic elk wintering on the National Elk Refuge. Sleighs are run seven days a week from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. by the same folks who provide food and fun at their Bar T Five chuckwagon shows all summer. Adults pay $18; youngsters 6-12, $14; and tikes under 5 pay nothing. Visitors can call 733-5386 or go online at BarT5.com to reserve a seat on the sleigh. No need for reservations, though, unless a large private tour would better fit the bill. Or simply drop by the Greater Yellowstone Region Visitor Center on north Cache, right next to the elk refuge. The

w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

a tour with Teton Science School’s Wildlife Expeditions. Start here: www.wildlifeexpeditions.org or call 1888-945-3567.

Western Dancing Restless legs?

Work ‘em out with a two-step or cowboy waltz at the Cowboy Bar on Thursday evenings between 7:30-9 p.m. The Cowboy and the

Dancers’ Workshop Country Western Dance Program sponsor free instruction to anyone showing up before the band hits the stage.

Ice Skating Broomball league fanatics can take a turn for the better at the indoor rink housed in the Teton County Fairgrounds Arena, right next to where cowpokes test their mettle all summer. Teton County Parks and Recreation Department also maintains rinks for everyone: one at the base of Snow King Ski Area in Jackson, the other at Owen Bircher Park in Wilson. Both are local family favorites. For more info. call 733-5056.

Another indoor rink, this one at the Snow King Center, is open to the public for one-and-ahalf-hour sessions. Call 734-3000 for a complete rundown of hours and fees.

Hockey You’ll hear it soon enough: “Go Moose!” the battle cry for the Jackson Hole Moose, who play full-check hockey in the Elite Senior A division of the USA Hockey Association. Grab all the home action on 20 Friday and Saturday nights at 7:30 p.m. in Snow King’s Ice Arena/Center. $8 for adults and $4 for children. Call 734-5300 or go online at jacksonholemoose.com.

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Paragliders fly at the Jackson Hole Mt. Resort

Jackson Hole: from a paraglider! And the experts children over eight. Reservations are recomat Jackson Hole Paragliding take full advantage of mended. Call 739-3399 for more info. these conditions. They’ll happily help launch Tubing Park novices and veterans alike over the valley in tanSave the river running for summer; hop an dem paragliding flights that lift off from the top of the resort’s Bridger Gondola. This breathtaking inner tube and run the King in winter. Tons of fun experience requires no athletic ability and the ex- at Snow King, Mon.-Fri. from 2 p.m. to 8 p.m., perienced pilots with Jackson Hole Paragliding weekends from noon till 8 p.m. Adults pay $16 for can even help those a bit daunted by heights. The one hour or $21 for two hrs., kids 13 and under outfit offers flights from 10 sites in the area. Call pay $13 for one hour and $18 for two hrs.

690-tram or visit jhparagliding.com.

Cross-country skiing at JHMR’s Nordic Center

Snowshoeing

Recreation Center Of course we have heated indoor recreation outlets! Even the hardiest of locals come in from the cold every now and then. Located two blocks north of the town square on 155 East Gill, Jackson’s first-rate rec. center has a gymnasium with full-size basketball and volleyball courts, an aquatic center, locker rooms, and a public meeting room. The aquatic center consists of an eightlane competitive-workout pool, a therapeutic pool, a leisure-water pool, a hot tub, a water slide, a teaching pool, and sauna and steam rooms.

Open 6 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday through Friday, from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Saturday, and noon to 7 p.m., Sunday. For daily fees, call 739-9025.

In case you haven’t noticed, our playground in winter boasts a lovely white wardrobe. The region is blessed with snow and lots to do out there, especially for those donning skinny skis, skate skis, or snowshoes.

Paragliding Clear days and light winds in Jackson help set the stage for another, equally astonishing view of

Walk softly but carry a good camera, especially in mountain country!

Grand Teton National Park offers ranger-led snowshoe hikes at 2 p.m. every day, from late December to March, weather and conditions permitting. A $5 donation is requested but snowshoes are provided. Park rangers touch briefly on the lore of snowshoeing and the winter adaptation of plants and animals in the park as trekkers cover the one-and-a-half miles along the river bottom in about two hours. Dress warmly, using the layer system, and wear warm footwear. For those who would prefer to wander around indoors instead of outdoors, the visitors’ center houses exhibits on the natural history of the park.

The snowshoe outings leave from the stunning, brand-spanking-new Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center at Moose, just north of the Jackson Hole Airport. No experience is necessary. Groups are limited to 20 adults and

Cross-country Skiing Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks Two of the nation’s most famous parks are true wonderlands under winter’s white mantle.

The solitude and spectacle of landscape will leave indelible memories on those who venture out in it during winter.

Grand Teton boasts 15 miles of stunning, groomed cross-country skiing from Taggart Lake trailhead to Signal Mt. and a skied-in track north along Cottonwood Creek. Trails and trail maps can be viewed and downloaded at www.nps.gov/grte . For info, call 739-3300.

double h bar national elk refuge sleigh rides

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Enjoy a piece of Western History while riding in a horse drawn sleigh

See Wildlife up close, surrounded by the scenic landscapes of Jackson Hole

Call Today!

307-733-0277 or 800-772-5386

Departs From Jackson Hole Visitor Center 532 N. Cache St.

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Adaptive Snow Sports at Jackson Hole

Bob Woodall (3); Lucas Gilman / JHMR (X-C); Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (adaptive ski)

In Yellowstone, over 100 miles of skied-in cross-country track adorn the park. Use snowcoaches as access to more remote parts. Information: 307-344-7381; Web: www.nps.gov/yell; roads: 307-344-2117.

EVENTS Shriners’ All-American Cutter Races This Western version of horse-drawn chariot racing always draws a huge crowd during President’s Day Weekend every February. Teams run two abreast in a 1/4-mile sprint to the finish at the polo grounds south of Jackson. Teams are auctioned in a Calcutta wager before each heat, so high stakes and excitement mark this event. 7333316, jacksonholechamber.com.

World Championship Snowmobile Hillclimb 2009 marks the 34th year for the World Championship Snowmobile Hillclimb, held annually on Snow King’s slopes. Starting from the bottom of the resort’s steepest ski run, contestants throttle their way straight up the mountain, trying to nail the speediest high-mark. Competitors come from all over the country to vie for “King/Queen of the Hill” in a four-day worldclass event that benefits St. John’s Hospital in Jackson Hole. Slated for March 26 through March 29, this year. Call 734-9653 or go online at snowdevils.org.

Jackson Hole Resort Nordic Center Seventeen km of groomed skating and classic lanes. Alpine lift tickets are also valid for the Nordic Center. Lessons and rentals available for cross-country, skate skiing, telemarking, and snowshoeing. Guided nature tours into Grand Teton National Park are available, as well as overnighters and lunches at the OB Rock Springs Yurt. 739-2629 Teton County / Jackson Parks and Recreation Dept.

It’s just about the best and busiest rec. outfit this side of the Mississippi. In addition to its rec. center, the department maintains seven crosscountry tracks, about 15 miles of both classic and skate, snow conditions permitting: 10 km in Cache Creek, 8 km in Game Creek, and shorter sections on the Snake River Levee (starting at Emily’s Pond), the Russ Garaman Trail, the Wilson Centennial School Trail, and the Melody Ranch Trail. To make tracks under the lights, drop by the trail between the valley’s middle school and Summit High School, illuminated nightly from 510 p.m. Novices can also sign up for skate-skiing

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Serving All Day!

Bakery & Restaurant roudly Br e eP

w

The Jackson Hole Mountain Sports School offers opportunities to “Ride the Big One” to individuals of all abilities, from first-day beginners to advanced levels, including the disabled. The J.H. Adaptive Program serves people of all ages and any form of disability, including, but not limited to, amputees, and those with autism, cerebral palsy, developmental and cognitive disabilities, hearing-impairments, spinal cord injuries, traumatic brain injuries, strokes, and visual impairments. All lessons are one-onone, with specially trained instructors in skiing, snowboarding, XC skiing, and snowshoeing, and include an all-day, allmountain lift ticket, and the use of any equipment needed. Please call Ryan Burke at 307-690-4774 for more information.

White Pine Resort Nordic Trail Sixty km of trails (25 km of groomed, 40 km of skied-in track) originate from Skyline Drive (Fremont Lake Road), and some trails start right from the White Pine parking lot. Access to over 2 million acres of public land, including the famous Wind River Mountains. 307-367-6606 or visit the website: www.whitepineski.com. Lessons and equipment rental also available.

Jackson’s Great Breakfast & Lunch

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instruction at this groomed site, just south of town and off the South Park Loop Road. For a trail map and more info. visit the website: tetonwyo.org/parks. Dial up the activity hotline, 7396789, for track grooming schedules and ski conditions, or call 733-5056 for more information about skate-skiing instruction.

®

Open 7 Days a Week Breakfast & Lunch: 7am-3pm Coffee & Pastries: 3pm-7pm 130 N. Cache 734-0075 www.bunnery.com

WESTSIDE

WINE & SPIRITS The biggest and best selection of fine wines, beers and spirits on the West Bank Located at The Aspens, Teton Village Rd.

307-733-5038 World Championship Snowmobile Hillclimb

westside@wyoming.com westsidewineandspirits.com 2 0 0 9 J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R

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MADE IN JACKSON HOLE The Tetons have inspired many to explore, some to settle. But making ends meet while putting down roots in Jackson Hole has always been a challenge. How to keep the belly full, the rent paid, the car running, and Christmas presents under the tree without neglecting

skis, resort passes, and after-ski hobnobbing?

These entrepreneurs have made it in Jackson Hole by actually creating something in Jackson Hole. Or at least by transforming a Teton-inspired idea into a regular paycheck!

CLIMBING SKINS DIRECT Principal: Rick Liu developed telemark skiing’s first cable binding in 1981 and was Life-Link’s Head of Product Development from 1986 to 1995. He then became a partner in Ascension Enterprises, manufacturer of the successful "purple climbing skins." In 2004 he developed Climbing Skins Direct: climbing skins with direct Internet sales.

Product: Climbing skins for skis Mission Statement: Provide tough, lightweight climbing skins directly to the backcountry skier.

Business Plan: Sell climbing skins directly to backcountry skiers while minimizing packaging and trash.

Years in Business: Three Reach of company: Worldwide Market Innovation: Providing tough skins without making them stiff and heavy.

Future Vision for Product: Continue to innovate, make skins lighter, tougher, and easier to take on and off in the field.

Climbing Skins Direct owner Rick Liu

POWDERHORN

Principal: Switzerland’s Christian Baettig was living in Mammoth, California, “back in the day,” wearing original Powderhorn clothing designed and sewn in Jackson Hole. Still passionate about the brand and his heroes who wore it, he bought the license in 2006 and reopened the Jackson shop.

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Mission Statement: Open new terrain in ski fashion and functionality, answering the call of every hardcore skier with true performance outerwear.

Business Plan: Bring back the Powderhorn brand with the same spirit, innovation, and Western design as the original classic pieces.

Years in Business: Reborn two years ago after a 15-year dormancy Reach of company: Worldwide—North America, Switzerland, Germany, Austria, France, Italy, Australia, United Kingdom, Asia, Russia, Sweden Market Innovation: Introduced many new features to ski apparel, including: powder skirts, high collars, inside pockets for goggles and stashes, zipper flap, Velcro closures on cuffs, incorporating down fabric into ski jackets, and, of course, the ever famous zip-off sleeves!

Future Vision for Product: We will always keep a collection of Western fashion with flare, but as we grow, we will create other collections that trend away from Western styling in order to appeal to a broader market.

McKoy; Woodall

Powderhorn Marketing Manager Katie Jackson

Product: Comprehensive collection of base and mid-weight layers, and outerwear tops and bottoms utilizing technical fabrics such as Schoeller, waterproof corduroy, natural alpaca wool, and Primaloft and down insulations.

Powderhorn originally staked its claim in the world of ski fashion with Western-inspired down-filled ski parkas, notable for their colorful shoulder yokes. In the rebirth of the brand we continue to be meticulous about the fashion details with our contrast stitching, Western rivets, and jean-snap button closures.

JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT COMPANY Principals: Dan and Suzanne Marino Product: Buffalo and elk steaks, jerky, salami, whole tenderloins, sausage, burgers, prime rib, brisket, ribs, all cuts available.

Mission Statement: To provide, at a fair price, highly nutritious and well-prepared food items using only quality ingredients. To educate the public on the health benefits of buffalo and elk products.

Dan and Suzanne Marino, owners Jackson Hole Buffalo Meat Company

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Business Plan: To continue to grow the company and educate the public on our healthy and nutritious products. To franchise the business in the future with outlets in selected areas around the USA. Promote sustainable made-in-Wyoming, made-inthe USA products.

Years in Business: The company has been in business since 1947.

We have owned Jackson Hole Buffalo Meat for the last 11 years.

Market Innovation: The most significant market innovation we have come up with is our Wild Times Buffalo Jerky. It is like a Power or Energy Bar in jerky form. Fortified with white ginseng and the highest grade vitamin B12, this product is healthy, nutritious, tastes great, and may really help increase energy levels.

Future Vision for Product: Franchising the business to make the product more readily available to other markets around the country.

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MADE IN JACKSON HOLE

Jason Tattersall

IGNEOUS Principal: Michael Parris quit his job building robots for NASA to live in a cardboard box and make skis.

Product: Handcrafted custom skis, snowboards, and skateboards

Business Plan: Continue to refine our product through extensive testing.

Our ability to design, manufacture, and ride in Jackson Hole allows us to innovate and customize to meet specific needs. Each pair of skis is custom-designed and built to the specifications of an individual rider. Developing relationships with our riders informs our design and construction processes. Our craftsmen are lifelong skiers with passion that is evident in the product.

Years in Business: We’ve been making skis since 1994; we hesitate to call it a business.

Reach of company: 60% Jackson Hole, 25% other Rocky Mountains, 10% Northeast, 4% Europe, 1% Japan Market Innovation: The concept of custom skis handmade by skiers.

Ski-shape geometry to match the style of the turn: Carver, GS, FallLine, StraightLine. Custom-tailored construction to dial in the feel of the ride: hardwood maple and ash cores, custom-profiled to stiffness and flex pattern; stitched triaxial fiberglass to adjust torsion and stability; Aramid fiber to deflect rock shots; oversized edges for durability and tuning longevity; wood veneer top-sheets for good looks and a lively ride.

Future Vision for Product: 100 Igneous riders aboard the new tram 22

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Igneous owner Mike Parris

McKoy (this page); courtesy Cloudveil (facing page)

Mission Statement: Igneous strives to produce the finest skis on the planet.

CLOUDVEIL MOUNTAIN WORKS any outdoor adventure in the Tetons and that no one else in the U.S. outdoor apparel industry was providing this innovative fabric, we created our first jacket prototype, the Serendipity. Since then we’ve progressed with other great fabrics, distributors, and styles, but the soft-shell fabric is still our calling card.

Future Vision for Product: Continue providing gear that people are psyched to wear for their outdoor adventures, whether it’s a yurt trip in B.C. or simply throwing on a favorite puffy to get a coffee. We love Jackson Hole, and being able to make it work in this valley is the icing on the cake.

COME BY THE

CLOUDVEIL STORE TODAY Brian Cousins and Stephen Sullivan, co-founders Cloudveil

TO GET READY FOR THOSE DEEP SHOTS THIS WINTER!

Principals: Brian “Cuzz” Cousins, president and co-founder; Stephen “Sulli” Sullivan, vice president and co-founder Product: Technical Backcountry Apparel Mission Statement: Dedicated to producing the highest-quality, technically innovative performance mountain apparel in the world.

Business Plan: At this point we have a good grasp on the intricacies of cash flows and supply chains, but if anyone who’s trying to start up their own business knew all of this before they started, there’s a good chance they’d be scared off and probably never do it.

It was a “learn as you go” operation and getting to this point has definitely been a trip.

Years in Business: Twelve years and running with our outdoor apparel line, three years with our angling program.

120 West Pearl JACKSON, WYOMING

307-739-3930

Reach of company: Worldwide Market Innovation: The spark was ignited when a friend brought over a pair of stretchwoven climbing pants from Chamonix, France. Realizing these pants fit the bill for w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

across from Pearl Street Bagels Free Parking Available Gabe Rogel

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Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Ski stories from a phenomenal winter

The testimonials are unanimous: last winter Jackson Hole skiers and snowboarders saw the Nordic Ski God, Ullr, every day!

“The conditions were so exceptionally good,” says Pepi Stiegler. “I could rave about it on and on and on, and everybody does. It was just heavenly.”

Fellow former Olympian Tommy Moe saw it too. “After living in Jackson Hole for thirteen years, it seemed like I skied more powder last winter than ever before in my life,” he says. “The whole season, everywhere we went, the backcountry, inbounds, it was all good. A dream-come-true winter.”

The dream continues. A new tram. A fresh winter. Reliving old ski stories as we make new ones. The heart of our existence ringing out like the chorus once sung by the U.S. Army 10th Mountain Division: “Two boards upon cold powder snow, Yo Ho! What else does a man need to know?”

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Tommy Moe

Charlotte Moats

Jeff Leger

Last year I skied a lot with my wife Megan, who was pregnant. We laughed because the baby was skiing powder—not born yet, but already skiing a lot of powder.

And ever since she was born, she likes to be bounced around a lot and taken on bike rides. I bet it’s from all the movement of skiing while she was in the womb. Our baby girl, Taylor, is going to be a tough little Tomgirl. I’m looking forward to getting out there and skiing with her in a backpack.

One day it was so deep, it was eerie. I sunk down to my shoulders when I stopped. I remember standing there in the beautiful silence in total disbelief that so much snow could be so perfectly stable.

And yet, it was. I was with two friends and no matter how fast we lapped, Mother Nature was faster. We had first tracks on the same favorite line, over and over and over, with no one and nothing in sight except the very top of my partner’s pom pom.

I managed to get first tracks in Corbet’s and S&S on the same day, with a Bamboozler in between! Everybody was lagging, not wanting to get after it too quickly because we’d had so much snow all winter. So after Corbet’s, instead of doing the sneak back to East Ridge chair, I had time to hit Meet Your Maker, Broadway, and Toilet Bowl—a combination I like to call The Bamboozler—then ride three lifts back up to the top, and still get first tracks in S&S! Sweet!

McKoy

continued next page Kevin Brazell, JH Resort backcountry 2 0 0 9 J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R

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26

TOTAL

Jess McMillan

Every skier in Jackson Hole has a list of lines we’d like to SNOW ski someday. We start talking about our lists in September FALL and try to have them finished by April 5—an impossible task, 105” since Jackson contains a lifetime of ski lines. That’s what keeps skiers skiing in Jackson, year after year.

One line on my list from the beginning, a rite of passage for me, is S&S Couloir. Maybe we shouldn’t even call it a line. It’s more of a 25-foot-crack drop. From the top it looks like you are launching yourself into oblivion. If that is not intimidating enough, you must first sign in with patrol to ski the line. This is really weird, because you are basically letting the patrol know that you are throwing caution to the wind and about to huck yourself into a really big chasm.

One morning, after it had snowed a couple feet, we walked into the patrol shack, signed our lives away, and headed to the drop.

When we arrived, local ski legend Wild Bill was already there, peering into the chasm. “Do you think it’s soft?” I asked. He gave us that crazy look of his and dropped in. We couldn’t see him land but heard his shouts at the bottom of the couloir. “It must be soft,” we all said. Next, Eric Seymour launched himself without hesitation and Bob Kilmane followed—lemmings hucking off the cliff.

Everyone had jumped. Now I was up there by myself, peerTOTAL ing into the crack that seemed to have no bottom. It would SNOW have been easy to back away and save it for another day, but DEPTH I really wanted to check it off my list. I stepped away from the 53” lip of the drop and took a deep breath. I gave myself a little pep talk, counted to three, and skied off the edge.

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Conor Horigan drops into the “chasm” known as S&S Couloir.

Jeff Leger skis the vast expanse below Rendezvous Peak.

McKoy photos

Calendar of Snowfall

Our snowfall calendar lists some of the weather data posted last winter by the BridgerTeton National Forest Backcountry Avalanche Hazard & Weather Forecast. The current daily forecast can be viewed at jhavalanche.com or heard by calling 307-733-2664. It includes: area Mountain Weather Forecast and General Avalanche Forecast; past 24-hour temperature and wind data from a weather station near the tram’s summit at 10,400’; snowfall/precipitation data from two weather stations—the Raymer Plot between the Headwall and Casper Bowl at elevation 9,300’, and the Rendezvous Bowl Plot at 9,580’.

I stepped away from the lip of the drop and took a deep breath. I gave myself a little pep talk, counted to three, and skied off the edge.

The free-fall was quick, the landing soft.

My body buzzed with adrenaline and my mind was relieved. Maybe lemmings do know something that few humans will ever experience: a sense of complete and unfettered freedom.

Chris Figenshau

One day, a powerful storm blew in from the south. It didn’t dump a lot of snow and actually scraped snow off most aspects. But it blew in S&S Couloir as deep as I’ve ever seen it. Just unbelievable! Four or five feet deep in there. I jumped in and the snow was so deep it took my ski goggles from my face and pushed them halfway up my head.

That was the first of three times I did S&S that day. I had it to myself for some reason. It was one of those great moments where you luck out, make the right call and nobody else seems to clue into it.

I remember calling my friend Marvin because he wanted to go in. He was on the gondola, trying to get up there as fast as he could.

I went in a second time and called him again from the Thunder lift line. We hooked up and went to the top. He looked into S&S and said, “It’s all bombed out, you can’t go in there.” So we skied away, but I went back around and found one more little nugget in there and did it a third time.

Then I called Marvin again!

Kevin Brazell

It was a mid-February morning, and we began our ski patrol day in the dark, as usual, going up the lifts to do snow control. We got to the bottom of Thunder chair lift and it was closed due to high wind at the saddle. We radioed our bottom-feeder base patrol for a tow and skijored behind his ‘bile up to Rendezvous Bowl.

There, on the leeward slope, it was nice, and calm, and quiet. We rode the East Ridge chair lift and assessed the snow-control situation. The stiff north wind seemed to be resolving our snow-stability issues within the resort.

The wind just kept going and going, and sure enough, nothing but the gondola opened. We stayed at the Top of the World and did our daily jobs: checking the status of touring gates, mending tattered boundary lines and other blown-away signage, digging out toboggans, and preparing rescue equipment.

The work finally done, the wind still blowing hard out of the north and still totally calm in Rendezvous Bowl, the East Ridge lift spinning, we finally got some of the white stuff under us, over us, and in that pocket we probably left open.

The breakable wind slab in the bowl led us to start lapping Corbet’s Couloir. A steady 35-to-40-mph wind blew straight up the couloir, scouring and hardening the snow and making the entrance a virtual wheelchair 2 0 0 9 J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R

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JANUARY

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TOTAL

SNOW FALL 210”

Kevin Brazell, Moran Face

ramp. The snow inside was chalky and buffed smooth.

It didn’t matter how we skied it—blindfolded, hands in pockets, right side, left side, old-school-skiers’ entrance, newschool entrance off the nose—it was all butter! Every turn was like ripping Bounce softener sheets from the box—into the cave, over the fin, spray a wall, scope Piggies—it was all moist!

Hanging a right-hand turn at TOTAL Tensleep, the wind was nuking esSNOW pecially hard. We opened our arms DEPTH and held our poles out—full spread98” eagle style—and the wind pushed us uphill on the low-grade Marky Mark Traverse, back around to the East Ridge.

And we had it to ourselves all morning!

After awhile, we started talking to some of the old-dog ‘trollers who hadn’t been in the couloir for a good 10 or 15 years. It took a bit of money on the table, but we got them in. Epic!

Charlotte Moats, Four Pines

Hannah Horigan

One day I was skiing alone and I went over to Corbet’s. A man there from North Carolina was just looking in, and he said, “I don’t know if I’m going to do it.” And I was like, “Oh come on, it’s easy. Just TOTAL SNOW watch me.” So I jumped in and he FALL said, “I don’t know if I can do it.”

305” And I said, “Come on, you got it!”

And I totally encouraged him and he flopped his way in. He did it! He was so excited, he took our picture together! He said, “I wouldn’t have done it if you hadn’t made me.” And I said, “Well, now you can check it off your list.” One of the magazines listed it in the “Top 100 Things You Should Do Before You Die.” Continued page 30

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Jess McMillan, The Crags

McKoy photos

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FEBRUARY TOTAL INCHES

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MARCH

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Lance Cygielman

SNOW DEPTH 105”

I skied in a hurricane.

Yeah, we get storms in Jackson and we get winds. Sometimes big winds! But this particular mid-January morning, it went off the charts.

It had snowed 12-to-14 inches overnight, so I got in the “Gondi” line early. I figured on a late opening, but lo and behold, the lift loaded on time and I was only nine cars back. “Stoked” is an understatement.

I did my usual routine, hitting the Study Plots from the Gondola, and the snow was deeeep! As I rode up Thunder, it began to get a little windy. I

McKoy (2); Woodall (Newson)

DATE

TOTAL

SNOW FALL 404”

TOTAL

SNOW DEPTH 100” Danny Felice, Little Fat Bastard

Chris Newson, Pepi’s Bench

Peter Pilafian

One of the ironies of filming my Corbet’s movie: I spent many hours hanging out at the top of the couloir, filming people going in, trying to capture the feeling of first-time Corbet’s skiers. Day after day I’d find myself up there right after first tram, looking at fabulous conditions. But I was so dedicated, just hanging out with the camera, and shooting and shooting. By the time I’d get my stories Corbet’s was totally tracked out. Unskiable! I paid my dues on that one.

Darrell Miller

April Fools Day…remember in Sleeping Giants, the shot of Cora’s Couloir and the 20foot air out of it? But this year it was totally a ski-through. So I went back and did that again, and that felt really good. Still, definitely the scary stuff, the first top few turns, but once you’re in, it’s more manageable. And then the fact of no air at the bottom from such an insane snow year that filled it in, it was kind of heartwarming.

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Jeff Leger, Zero G

jumped into Laramie Bowl and looked across at the Sublette chair to see if was running—it’s highly susceptible to wind closure and the winds were definitely increasing.

It was running, so I fast-tracked down Laramie Bowl, traversed to yet another epic untracked run under the Alta Chutes, and beelined for the chair. We loaded—no singles allowed, the wind now howling—and off we went, envisioning untracked runs down Cheyenne Bowl and the Hobacks.

Then it hit. The wind went nuclear! The chair lift stopped, our chair over a cliff, and we started swinging. Now it really had my attention and I started praying for this chair not to loop over the cable. We finally started creeping uphill very slowly and we all prayed we would get to the top, because if this lift went down, ours would be one sick evacuation.

Finally, we got off at the top and my first instinct was to ski into the woods and out of the wind and enjoy the pow’. I was 110-percent sure Sublette chair was going to close.

The light, the snow, the wind—it was all surreal. I got back to the bottom of Sublette chair lift, and not only had the lift closed, but I was advised that the entire mountain was shutting down and the ski patrol had recorded 90-to-100 mph winds.

I skied a lower face, the wind screaming like a freight train chasing me down the mountain, and took shelter indoors.

could experience it from all three dimensions, this incredible storm out there on the flats.

And then the power went out.

Mike Tierney I ski some crazy lines. Sometimes I get into trouble—and then I have to get myself out of trouble. I had one of those moments while skiing Talk to Rocks, a line off the front of Cody Peak that had never been done before. All I can say is, I wouldn’t really recommend it.

It’s a connect-the-dots route and includes some really sketchy rock scrambling and a 40-foot

air that I had to jump while standing on rocks and pushing off with my poles. It was a pretty awkward move.

I had done a variation of the route a couple times: ski down Shirley’s Face and, right before the big cliff, sneak around a little corner into Igneous Rocks. It looked like I could come in from the other side: ski Talk is Cheap, traverse across a ledge, and jump into a deep pocket of snow in the top of Igneous Rocks.

It was a beautiful day, super sunny. I had some really good friends in town that are rad skiers who were hitting Central for the first time, and, you know, I couldn’t let them down. But when I skied

“en it hit. e wind went nuclear! e chair lift stopped with us swinging over a cliff. I started praying for this chair not to loop over the cable.”— Lance Cygielman Mike Maples The Friday Afternoon Ski Club was in session. The chair lifts were all closed from fierce upper-mountain winds. It was blowing so hard as we rode up the Gondola, the consensus was, “Boy, I don’t think they’re going to be able to keep the Gondola open either.” And sure enough, before we left the top, they stopped sending people up that lift, too. The mountain was closed.

We did the Blowzinski Traverse, went way around to the south side of the mountain, and the storm was raging so hard you couldn’t hear anything but the wind. We skied Sublette to the bottom and it was untracked, just like first thing in the morning. Ski tracks got blown in right behind the last person who skied it. But no one was skiing it. No one was up there but us.

I got home by three o’clock, then they closed the Village Road and a lot of people got stuck out there. It was such an intense storm, so violent in our neighborhood. I climbed up on my roof so I w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

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out for the rocks at the bottom, and do the final jump, an 80-footer. “Sweet, I’m home free.”

I made my way down to the jump at the bottom, trying to be smooth about it. Then it got crazy again right before the takeoff. It turned to sugar snow and I poked through and scraped some rock. I’d done the air before and had landed it, but this time, even though I thought I might still pull it off and was like, “Oh sweet,” at the last second my body just shifted, and I was like, “Uh oh!” I hit and just exploded.

I dropped a pole—my lucky poles—so I had to walk back up to the landing zone to get it. I didn’t get hurt. I was real fired up. My friends were stoked. Definitely my most magic moment of the winter, for sure. I was super bummed that I didn’t land the jump, so I wanted to go back and do it again.

But not that way. Not Talk to Rocks.

TOTAL

SNOW FALL 505”

McKoy (2); Woodall (TGR)

DATE

Conor Horigan, The Diagonal

down the face, the snow in Talk is Cheap was heavy. It was a bad place to be and I wanted to get off the route quickly.

I got to the ledge and realized it was too steep to ski across. There were corners that roll off, way more severely than they appear to from below. It’s so steep, and those ledges are really narrow. All I could see were the cliffs below me and the really big set of cliffs at the bottom. “Oh, man! Whew! What have I gotten myTOTAL self into?”

SNOW I took my skis off and started rock climbing.

DEPTH I’m walking across, and I’m like, “Holy smoke, I 140” hope this works. I hope I know what I’m “It’s so steep, and doing.” I had one of APRIL those panic moments, those ledges are 1 3 but still tried to mainreally narrow.

2 1 tain focus so I could do the scramble Oh, man!

3 2 moves. Free climbing.

No protection.

Whew! What 4 0 I made it to the have I gotten 5 3 TOTAL jump and had to put my skis myself into?”— 6 4 SNOW back on while FALL 605” standing on 7 2 rocks. I made those Mike Tierney moves very delicately, 8 4 not wanting to lose my balance, kick a ski and have it 9 1 go shooting off, or drop it. I couldn’t see the jump very and I thought, “Oh, my god, it’s a lot bigger than I 10 1 well, thought.” Even though I’d seen my landing zone from 11 1 the other side and I knew it was deep, I thought, “That better be deep.” Because if I punched through and hit 12 .1 rocks, I’d be crushed up there with no way anyone could 13 0 get to me. I’d be really bumming. I’d shatter my hip, because it’s one of those jumps where you have to hip 16 6 TOTAL check to spill all your speed. It’s a pretty steep little pocket. I was like, “Oh, man! I hope I don’t 17 .1 SNOW FALL bounce. I hope I don’t punch through to rocks.”

615” But it was primo. It was super deep. I made and on that jump count. Didn’t fall. Absorbed all my speed. I like this was wedged into the top of the Igneous Rocks hanging till mid-June snowfield. I was psyched, in familiar territory from then on. All I had to do was make some steep turns, watch

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TOTAL

SNOW DEPTH 130”

J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R 2 0 0 9

Eric Roner, TGR, Pucker Face

Lisa Watson Two years ago, Kit DesLauriers and I did a “countdown to Central,” skiing Once is Enough, Twice is Nice, Shady Lady, and Horseshoe. She helped me make sure I had the skills to do Central and the ability to deal with any problems I might have on tele’s. But that year the weather turned bad on the day I was planning to go in, and since then I’ve been dying to do it.

So last year I asked my friend AJ Cargill if she’d take me in. She’s skied it every year, pretty much. Tristan, my co-worker, went first, then I climbed down into it and put my skis on. Then AJ went and, because it’s so steep, she disappeared

this is a day to go skiing!” I tucked the camera away for awhile and just enjoyed a bunch of deep powder runs.

Lynsey Dyer

Early in the season I did a huge 12-hour day in the backcountry, from boarding the Gondola at 8:00 to finally into the bar at 8:00. The bushwhack out was like wilderness trekking. We got out in the dark and squished eight people in a little Subaru.

And, of course, we had to finish it off with a beer at the Coach, which went straight to the head.

I had been peering at the North Shore from afar for so long, for years. The skiing was great,

dropping in over those cliff bands—they seem so big from far away and then you drop in and they’re not that big.

Next we hiked back up over the north flank below Rendezvous Peak, toward Saint Patty’s, and—it’s just so amazing how many different snow textures you can get in one run—it looked like the moon. Sastruga and blue ice. If you took a tumble there you’d be in big trouble.

Jensen Canyon was really spooky. Across the canyon everything had ripped earlier that day. We got down in there and heard a ‘whumph.’ It was a big ‘whumph,’ too! That beer at the Coach never tasted so good!

Jason Tattersall, Four Shadows

out of sight. At the very top it was pretty nice, but in the crux it’s so super steep you couldn’t make a turn. I saw how I needed to line up and jump out of the crux, and I did it and landed where AJ and Tristan were waiting. People were in front of and behind us, so we had to keep moving.

From there it was great—really nice powder turns down to the bottom, where you had to back up and line up your exit. At that point, I was just so excited and wasn’t even remotely scared for some reason and just went flying out.

I did two front flips, landed on my skis, and fist-pumped my way out of it with blood running down my lip from a ski hitting me in the face.

It wasn’t easy, but I didn’t feel like I was going to die. It’s a tough one. I’m not running back to do it again.

Greg Von Doersten

One storm I remember was incredible, it was puking so hard. I pulled my camera out and tried to shoot on the Sublette quad lift. By the time I got to the top, the whole thing was just caked. It snowed an inch while we were on the lift.

It was one of those quintessential Jackson Hole powder days where you go, “You know, man, w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

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Living Legends:

The Tram Builders

By Lauren M. Whaley

34

J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R 2 0 0 9

One day on top of Tower Three, as ice pellets, snow, and sleet battered their faces, a bolt of lightning hit the crane. The hair on their arms and the back of their necks tingled. Time stopped for a second.

“One of our guys got a small shock,” Schneider remembered. “And then we went running fast, fast as we could down the mountain.” His eyes twinkled as he described the harrowing feats that come with such work.

Because of the steep location of Tower Two, crews had to winch its pieces up for assembly rather than using the crane. One of Schneider’s coworkers found himself in the precarious position of having to free a five-ton piece of steel from a tree.

Schneider said the piece leapt up and fell down, almost crushing his coworker.

“He had to run for it!” Schneider said, smiling.

Austrian born Hans Burkhart had the unenviable role of crane operator. He lifted up tower pieces, formed the top terminal, and assembled a temporary bridge on the track ropes for local Norm Duke, a cable technician of international renown, to splice the haul rope in midair.

Perched in a 90-ton crane above a cliff, the

Tristan Greszko (left, facing page); Bob Woodall (top)

They braved lightning, snow, winds, sleet, and dizzying heights to construct the western ski world’s newest living legacy: the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s replacement tram. Nothing less than a team of the world’s best tram builders would do.

The resort had decided to decommission its signature tram because it had simply worn out and safety would have become a chief concern for the 40-year-old symbol of high-mountain skiing.

After the legend was removed, the real work of constructing the area’s next landmark began. The Swiss-made replacement tram would transport 100 skiers at a time to Rendezvous Mountain’s 10,940-foot summit in about eight minutes, nearly doubling its predecessor’s capacity and cutting the ride time by about three minutes.

The new car #1 goes up in October.

Tim Mason, vice president of mountain operations for the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, speaking boss, indicated that all the Swiss workhelped turn the blueprints and renderings into ers won’t soon forget Jackson Hole either. brick-and-mortar-and-steel. With his Puritan “I like it very much here,” Eberhard said, his work ethic, gentle sarcasm, and deep knowledge white hardhat shading his light-blue eyes as he of all parts electrical, Mason became the prover- spoke through replacement interpreter and Swiss bial player-coach. crewman Heinz Schneider. “I’m thirty years in the “We’re all really proud of this crazy, big effort,” he said. “Everyone did their part and we all helped each other out.”

Swiss workers from Garaventa—the company that manufactured all the tram’s parts—completed much of their work from the sides of cliffs or hanging in midair. Wearing wool caps under hardhats, chain-smoking cigarettes and downing soda by the 2-liter bottle, Garaventa’s crews worked 12-hour days, six days a week.

“The Swiss,” Mason said, “work in any weather, in any condition.” He was especially impressed with Aschi, Garaventa’s interpreter (many of the Swiss didn’t speak English). “Aschi had the ability to work fourteen hours a Norm Duke splices the haul cable. day, seven days a week,” Mason said. “We can’t business and think it’s like Switzerland to work forget him.” Unfortunately, a car accident forced here. The culture is the same, so I prefer this to his premature return to Switzerland for recovery. other job sites.”

Hanspeter Eberhard, Garaventa’s SwissThe weather always challenged the workers.

same one rived by Corbet’s Couloir, at what Jackson Hole workers call “The Top of the World,” Burkhart delicately hoisted giant pieces of aluminum sheets to be bolted down as decking for the new upper tram terminal.

“Operating a crane in the parking lot is one thing; operating a crane on the mountain is another thing,” said the 73year-old. “You’d like to get as close to a tower or platform as you can. Most of the time, you can’t. So you have to take chances by being on the edge of something very steep.”

Taking chances has led this tall, tanned, world-renowned crane expert to balance his machine on loose rock near the upper terminal, to perch in a tiny needle crane stuck to the side of the mountain beside Tower Two, and to pivot on a boom crane at the base.

Burkhart has worked in the ski business for 45 years, and helped raise trams for Squaw Valley, Snowbird, and Vancouver. He was also instrumental in constructing Squaw Valley’s 1998 Funitel: a “complicated lift” of 46 28-passenger cabins with a capacity of 4,000 passengers an hour.

One day on top of Tower Three, as ice pellets, snow, and sleet battered their faces, a bolt of lightning hit the crane.

Tristan Greszko

Yet after 45 years as a crane operator, 20 of those spent as general manager for Squaw Valley USA, Burkhart found himself drenched with snow, operating on the side of a mountain in Wyoming’s Teton Range.

“This Swiss guy comes out to Squaw Valley and says, ‘We are having difficulties building at Jackson Hole. We need you. Would you come out?’” Burkhart recalled. “I got three daughters, and they say, ‘Dad you’re crazy. Why the hell do

w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

A worker scales Tower One. 2 0 0 9 J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R

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The New York Times reported that no major tram in the United States has been built since 1992; Snowbird, Sandia Peak, and Squaw built trams in the ‘70s.

Installing the slack carriers

36

J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R 2 0 0 9

Tristan Greszko (bottom); Wade McKoy (top); Bob Woodall (facing page)

New Tower One, old Tower One

you want to go to Jackson?’ And, of course, when they tell me I’m crazy, that’s when I say, ‘Then, I have to go.’ ” Jackson Hole Mountain Resort crews spent most of April plowing roads and chopping ice. By mid-May there were still 122 inches at the bottom of Rendezvous Bowl.

“We built Tower One, Tower Three, and Tower Four in the snow,” Burkhart said. “But we just kept working no matter what. Every day, we were in the snow fighting the weather. Crews plowed the road up on top in midJune with snow banks ten feet high.”

Shane Ward, Rick Grant, and Curt Willard, locally born Jackson Hole High School classmates with a combined 60 years of service at the resort, rebuilt the roads with materials imported from gravel pits in the valley. They also used this material to fashion a road into Tower Four so crews could get a crane to the site.

Jake Elkins, self-proclaimed “dirt guy” who directs the ski patrol in winter and in-house construction in summer, said the whole area turned into a quagmire.

"The sub base of our road pretty much went to mud," he said. "Once that goes away, you can't get the heavy trucks through."

After several weeks of setbacks, Elkins and resort crews finally rebuilt the road and put a crane in to Tower Four just in time for a three-day snowstorm that brought seven-foot drifts to the area.

Elkins and ski patrollers also intentionally triggered two avalanches in mid-June, so the snow wouldn’t slide on its own. The debris again wrecked the access roads.

“Winter never quit; it just kept coming and coming and coming,” Elkins said. “We were in the business of snow removal until about the fifteenth of June. May and June were a significant struggle.”

Still, Elkins, who came here in 1973 to “ski bum for a season,” said the tram is the most exciting project he’s ever worked on.

“To see this one through two construction seasons, including a winter, is really incredible,” he said. “I think everybody on the crew has been pretty jazzed about working on a project of this magnitude. We’re each doing our little portion of it.”

As these men worked 12-hour days for the icon's resurgence, the hype built in a country where only 19 public tramways exist, including those for sightseeing. The New York Times reported that no major tram in the United States has been built since 1992; Snowbird, Sandia Peak, and Squaw built trams in the ‘70s.

Resort President Jerry Blann said the new tram is an “engineering feat.”

And lift maintenance mechanic Jeff Wilson noted that there is “nothing human-sized about the tram.”

Not only are the new tram cars nearly twice the size of the old ones, coming in at 15,700 pounds each, but all the tram components feel giant compared to the old ones.

The drive room under the lower terminal houses the bollards—huge cement spools lined with Beachwood that anchor the track and haul cables. The electrical systems for the tram live in this room. Resort electrician Troy Stoker worked with other contractors to install the system’s wiring and drive. When everything is blinking and pumping and grinding, the room feels like it’s set deep in the heart of a mountain.

Up above, the loading platform at the lower terminal glides back and forth with effortless grace.

Mason credits Jackson Hole general contractor Stan Zaist for coordinating about 25 different trades to construct the top and bottom terminals.

Old & New

The original tram cars (left) carried 63 skiers.

Replaced with larger cars in 1989, the number of passengers was eventually reduced to 52 to further alleviate crowding. The new cars (artist’s rendition right) carry 100 skiers.

Anchored in the bottom terminal and stretching up the mountain are the 100-ton cables. The four enormous track ropes and one haul rope are strung taut between each of the five galvanized-steel towers, each of which is bigger than its predecessor.

Three backup systems, including a massive generator, are in place at the lower terminal so tram riders never have to evacuate the cars. But despite the tram’s brutish feel, it is run on delicate controls, said Nic Gladd, former lift electrician.

“The operation will actually be taking place in an incredibly sterile, medical-like lab, complete with white lab coats,” he said, describing the control room in the lower terminal building. “That’s how you have to operate a thirty-million-dollar machine.”

The big machine brings out the sentimental side of some tram builders, like Chuck Melichar, a charismatic storyteller with a bushy mustache and a big laugh. Melichar built lifts all over the country in the 1980s.

“To be building one of the top tramways in the world, it’s something you always dream about,” Melichar said. He added that the new tram has reignited in him the pride he felt in those early days of being part of something new and innovative.

“The tram is unique; it’s like a Phoenix for me,” he said, smiling and looking up the mountain. “This is the firebrand of Jackson Hole rising out of the wreckage of the old tramway and flying people up to the top of the mountain again.”

To help the Phoenix rise, unsung heroes like “Big Steve” Parker have to work out the kinks.

“Whenever anything breaks, I fix it,” said the vehicle maintenance manager. “I helped support all the equipment that went to ‘The Top of the World.’ ” One of Parker’s biggest projects was to help fix a crane axel that broke in June en route between Towers Three and Four. It broke just before the Laramie traverse. Parker’s co-worker Tim Carberry helped him by driving up a Cat to investigate.

“We just kept everything going up the hill,” said Carberry, a Wyoming native. “All summer, I just used the 730 rock truck with a flat bed. I’d make several trips a day: load, drive, unload, and drive. I was a trucker.”

“If it wasn’t for the dump trucks, nothing would have gotten done,” Mason said.

After an estimated $25 million, the project

wound up costing over $31 million. That’s over 12 times the original tram construction cost of $2.5 million in 1966.

“What is the market value of such a machine?” pondered resort president Jerry Blann.

“The economic return is hard to calculate, but it’s worth it because of the icon factor.”

The workers that have dismantled the old red legend and built a new one will never forget the snow that wouldn’t stop, the roads that washed out, and the six-days-per-week work schedule.

“These guys are the hardest workers I’ve seen in my life,” Mason said. “And we’re all here for the same reason. We all love this incredible mountain.”

Lauren Whaley is a writer living in Jackson Hole. She wrote “Tram Diaries” on the resort’s TramFormation website.

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2 0 0 9 J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R

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Jackson Hole tram inspires vertical-foot tallies

S

Seekers of maximum vertical have long employed the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram. To this day, thousands of skiers and snowboarders celebrate their lofty achievements by wearing testimonial pins and belt buckles awarded by the Jackson Hole Resort for logging 100,000, 300,000, 500,000, or a million vertical feet.

In 1968, one quest set the benchmark. A team of five Jackson Hole skiers claimed the World Marathon Ski Record: 25 trams, 103,475 vertical feet, in eight hours. This topped a 1966 record set at Taos Ski Valley, New Mexico, when ski instructor and lodge owner Jean Mayer skied a total of 97,200 vertical feet by completing 60 rides in one day on the area’s high-speed chair lift.

The record day in Jackson got off to a rough start, though. Ski instructors Ferdi Fettig, Paul Perner, Bruce Morley, Dean Anderson, and mountain manager Dick Randolph lost a halfhour’s time on the first two runs.

“Morley came out of his bindings on the first trip down and broke his skis,” the 1968 press release revealed. “Anderson fell and broke his skis on the second run. Then the five skiers completed 23 straight runs without a single fall.”

In a recent letter, Ferdi Fettig wrote his memories of the event: “The route of the descent was Rendezvous Bowl, Laramie Traverse, Amphitheater, and lower Tramline. The fastest run I made was about 4 minutes, 30 seconds. One time I skied Rendezvous Bowl straight down! It was a fantastic day of skiing, flying down the mountain with almost no turns, enjoying the speed.”

The former German National Giant Slalom

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J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R 2 0 0 9

champion continued, saying, “We finished skiing at about 3:45, and if you also consider the lost time at the beginning, we could have done two or three more runs. Afterward, I felt a little bit tired, but not more than skiing with Pepi Stiegler at a Nastar Trial Handicap on Après Vous—10 runs in a row, and 35 degrees below!”

And where was Stiegler, Jackson’s ski school director and Austria’s Olympic Gold and Silver Medalist? “Pepi was going to join us that day, but his Porsche wouldn't start,” said Morley in a quote from Jackson Hole on a Grand Scale. When asked about it recently, Pepi concurred, saying, “That’s how things were with the Porsche. Air-cooled.

Not exactly a winter vehicle.”

The 1968 event inspired many personal attempts, one such by ski guide Dave Miller and instructor Chris Leveroni in the 1980s.

“Dave Miller and I did one, impromptu, on a crummy day in April,” said Leveroni. “Conditions were lunar—frozen coral reef, nobody else on the hill. I did 20 trams, starting and ending with ski patrol cars at 8:00 and 3:40. We did a no-repeat day, including Tower Three, Lower Faces, Corbet’s to the Cirque, the Hobacks. We were going all the way over to Jackson Face, even onto Ashley Ridge.

We went at a furious pace, and it was a panic each time. We made every tram, except Miller missed one when he threw a shoe on the Hobacks. It wasn’t anything official, though.”

Surprisingly, over 30 years passed before the next official event. In a tribute to Pepi Stiegler, a team of three men skied a whopping 26 trams. Ski School Assistant Director Doug Perieni, ski instructor Mike Janssen, and ski patrolman Curt

Woodall (left); McKoy (rt); Paul Ryan (Pepi poster)

World Marathon Ski Records

Chris Newson

1960s-vintage poster of Pepi Stiegler

Speckles each racked up 107,614 vertical in the February 2001 event, a fundraiser for Teton County Search and Rescue.

“We asked for a quarter, fifty cents, a dollar, five or ten dollars per run, whatever people could afford,” said Janssen, “and we raised four or five thousand dollars.”

They began at 7:00 a.m. and skied seven trams at downhill-racer speeds before the mountain opened at 9:00, after which they rode the same public car all day long.

“We always did the same run: the Bowl, to

East Ridge Traverse, into Tensleep, the Downhill Chute, Amphitheater, and the Gros Ventre,” Janssen said. “The day was pretty nasty. High winds up top.

Sublette blew down a couple times, and the tram ran slow at some points. Up high we had limited visibility, blowing snow, fresh powder. Below The Cirque it was groomers all the way down. It was really, really fun. People would join us for a few runs here and there, and if there was no tram line they could lap with us.”

Two years later, the unimaginable happened. Jackson Hole lost to Snowbird, Utah, in a SKIING magazine contest billed in epic terms.

“With their snow, vertical, steeps, and trams, Snowbird and Jackson Hole have become legends in American skiing,” the press release announced, and continued with a bold challenge: “But which resort has the toughest skiers and riders? In what will begin the greatest rivalry in skiing, four Snowbird athletes riding the Snowbird tram will race four Jackson Hole athletes riding the Jackson Hole tram in a headto-head, most-vertical-skied-in-a-day-wins competition: SKIING magazine’s Tram Off!” A Tram Off! On January 7, 2003, the Snowbird team skied a record 30 trams on the groomed Chip’s Run, from 9 a.m. to 3:45 p.m., receiving massages on each afternoon tram ride.

“Massages on the tram? We didn’t have that,” said Nordic Center Director Scott McGee. “And skiing groomers top to bottom isn’t really an option here. We’re just a little rougher and tougher up here in Jackson Hole, I guess.”

Tommy Moe

The Snowbird team of four women skied and snowboarded a combined total of 348,000 vertical to Jackson’s team effort of 347, 676. Each team consisted of two alpine skiers, one telemark skier, and one snowboarder. Jackson’s ski ambassador and Olympic Gold Medalist Tommy Moe, freeski champ AJ Cargill, snowboard mountaineer John Griber, and McGee competed against Snowbird’s pro alpine skiers Shannan Yates and Nora Pincus, pro telemark skier Kasha Rigby, and Sarah Clemensen.

“I remember skiing untracked powder,” said McGee, “following Tommy Moe down Hoppy’s Hole, into Lonnie’s Chute—that was a beautiful thing. We were following Tommy Bartlett around, he was our rabbit, we were the greyhounds. Brilliant weather, good powder, good groomers, no wind, traffic was low, Christmas rush over. Tucking down the Gros Ventre, pointing ‘em, putting my arms out to the side for a little air brake, then going into a tuck again.

The groomers were like butter.”

“I didn’t drop Corbet’s on the tele’s,” McGee said of the race route, “but the others did a few times. Mostly we did the Bowl to East Ridge, the Downhill Chute, to Amphitheater, to the Gros Ventre. We also did some variations, going to Lonnie’s, or Broadway, or The Cirque. It didn’t really matter after a while because we knew we could make every tram. Bartlett got 26 that day.”

“But you know how everybody hangs back, trying to get the window seat,” McGee lamented. “That cost us about thirty seconds each tram, so we probably could have gotten one more. That’s all it would’ve taken to win.”

Or a bigger, faster tram. Jackson, with its new tram, has challenged Snowbird to a rematch this winter. Stay tuned. — JH Skier w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

© 2008 Wolverine World Wide, Inc.

Surprisingly, over 30 years passed before the next official event. In a tribute to Pepi Stiegler, a team of three men skied a whopping 26 trams.

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Beyond Resort Boundaries

Movie skiers regularly and purposely trigger avalanches, their edgy feats neatly packaged on film to the beats of remixed hip-hop. But real life out-of-bounds skiing may not be so entertaining and often paints a potentially chilling picture.

Those who venture beyond the boundary gates at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort should know that Teton County has led the nation in avalanche deaths since 2000, said Bob Comey, ski patroller and chief avalanche forecaster at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort and director of the Bridger-Teton National Forest Avalanche Center.

While this startling figure will send some snowplowing back to Aprés-Vous, others will still crave the open-boundary freedom.

If you do choose to leave the ski-area boundary, you should know the risks of skiing on terrain the ski patrol does not manage. If necessary, Teton County Sheriff ’s Office and Grand Teton National Park–not the ski patrollers on the mountain–will coordinate a rescue.

Jake Elkins, ski patrol dire c t or, summed up risk-management advice for out-of-bounds skiing in one word: knowledge.

“The best thing they can do when they head out into the backcountry is have knowledge,” he

advised. “Knowledge of the terrain, where they’re going, the most recent weather, a stability evaluation. They should have knowledge of transceivers and how to use them and know the weather forecast.”

If you’re the least bit unsure of your knowledge or your partners’, hire a guide, suggested Comey. They are knowledgeable, and local and cool to boot! They can lead you to deep cowboy powder with less risk than if you venture out on your own.

Sometimes, though, you don’t even need to leave the ski area to find the best snow, Comey said.

“I’ve been skiing here for twentyfive years and often the best snow is not in the avalanche paths,” he added.

“Being open terrain, avalanche paths are subject to wind deposition and the effects of the sun.”

Comey also noted that even if you’re a great skier, know the area and weather conditions, have perfect equipment and knowledgeable partners, you’re still not guaranteed a no-avalanche ski run.

“What’s really important is knowing when not to go, and who not to go with,” Comey said.

“Know the limitations of your partners, know the risks, and manage those risks. The really big thing is not getting caught. Some people die in a shallow burial, with no trauma.”

Big: Jeff Leger, No Name Peak Inset: Jess McMillan, Once is Enough; hikers on Cody Face; Corey Felton, No Name Face

McKoy; Woodall

M

By Lauren M. Whaley

simple

fresh

ita lia n

Tristan Greszko / JHMR

C A F é

Terrain Park and

Superpipe

Beginning skiers and riders could visit the Little Britches terrain park on Antelope Flats, which features rails, little jumps, and mini-table tops.

“The mini-park is one of the big attractions on any given day at Jackson Hole, where all levels of people can come through and hit some small, fun jumps and rails,” pro snowboarder Rob Kingwill said.

Experts can check out the Rodeo Grounds terrain park off the Aprés Vous lift. “There is a great assortment of rails and boxes to choose from,” Kingwill said, “all linked together with fun medium-sized jumps. The park is a great place to get some experience under your belt before you head off into the backcountry to build that big jump and land the trick of your dreams.”

Tips for Safe(er) out-of-bounds travel For a daily avalanche-hazard forecast go to www.jhavalanche.org or call 734-2664.

PONZA Gideon LeGros

“The pipe is a full-size superpipe, extra long for being able to link together all your tricks,” Kingwill said. “The great thing is, you can ride the pipe all day and never hike once, thanks to the handle-tow right next to the pipe. This lets you focus on your tricks and not your cardio.”

Resort administrators remind skiers and riders that skiing and riding in control applies to park and pipe areas too. They advise park and pipe visitors to look before they leap, make sure landings are clear, and clear themselves out of the landing area after sticking their tricks.

For more information on the two terrain parks, superpipe, and upcoming competitions and events, visit jacksonhole.com/info/ski.freeride.asp — Lauren M. Whaley

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Knowledge:

• Know the area and the terrain where you plan to ski.

• Know the area above and below where you plan to ski; sometimes small avalanches carry people over cliffs or into terrain traps.

• Know the weather and weather forecast.

• Know how to use your rescue equipment (and make sure your partners do too).

• Know how to read snow conditions and terrain.

• Know how to ski expertly; out-of-bounds terrain is expert skiing, even in the sunniest of conditions.

Equipment and Companion:

• Always check jhavalanche.org or call the hot line before venturing out of bounds.

• Always wear a transceiver and carry a probe, shovel, and extra layers.

• Always check your transceiver’s batteries before venturing out.

• Always ski with a partner.

• Always tell someone in-bounds where you’re going and check in when you return.

• Always go with someone who knows what they’re doing. If unsure, hire a guide.

• Never go alone!

w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

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Unwind, rewind and plan new adventures.

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Snow King Resort

Jess McMillan, who grew up running gates on the King, returns on a pow’ day. Below: The resort’s proximity to town, the elk refuge, and the Tetons paints a pretty picture.

by Jeff Burke

The backdrop for much of the valley’s history, Snow King has witnessed it all. But for Jackson Hole’s town hill, the future begins now.

Jonathan Selkowitz (top left); Bob Woodall (2)

Snow King got its first lift from Neil Rafferty in 1939, when he moved a rope tow across the valley from nearby Teton Pass. Its lifts and fame grew slowly over the decades as the hill gained a devoted following of ski jumpers and racers. More recently, though, an exploding mountain-lifestyle culture has helped earn Jackson Hole a reputation for its world-class recreational opportunities, rife with wildlife, adventure, and wide-open spaces. At the center, poised to take advantage of that culture, is Snow King itself.

At a glance, the resort has been undergoing a facelift. The proliferation of Love Ridge condominiums over the last few years has changed the landscape of the hill’s base area. And this coming spring, Snow King will launch the Grand View Lodge and Spa at Love Ridge, a sophisticated property featuring an 11,000-square foot wellness spa— “Spa Verde”—in an eco-luxury setting, “creating a natural, modern and environmentally friendly responsible retreat,” says Erin Ennis, Director of Sales and Marketing.

“The spa’s contemporary design incorporates a water feature from a natural hillside spring, encouraging harmony with our environment.”

A destination itself, Spa Verde is also designed for the local community to take advantage of all its offerings. “The luxury property will offer a unique Jackson Hole experience,” says Ennis, “featuring a fine-dining restaurant, fireside lounge, 25,000 sq. ft. of [special] function space, including outdoor venues with expansive views of the National Elk Refuge and Teton Mountain Range.”

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F o r O v e r 3 0 Ye a r s

Lunch 11:30-2:30 UNIQUE SANDWICHES PHYLLO PIES, HOMEMADE SOUP & SALAD

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Extensive wine list Full Bar Open 7 days a week sweetwaterrest.com Call 733-3553 Corner of King & Pearl Sean Clark, another homeboy and four-time Town DH champ, carves up the untracked groomers.

Future King makes its own history Part of Snow King’s walk into the future is introducing a new director of recreation, Tom Fortune, who comes to Snow King from Schweitzer Mountain in Idaho. “I’m excited to be here,” says Fortune. “I’ve never worked on a community ski hill, and I’m looking forward to moving to Jackson Hole.”

But stepping into a new position will have its challenges. “Definitely,” says Fortune. “Growing the business is always a challenge. But I’m seeing big opportunities for summer activities. For winter, I’d like to get some glading done (thinning forested areas between established ski runs) to keep things fresh for the locals.” Jacksonites who milk every little secret line through the woods could soon have many more options for skiing the trees. And while Fortune focuses on increasing business and creating efficiencies on the expenses end, “I’m also looking forward to integrating into the community,” he adds.

There are some things, however, that won’t change. The Town Downhill, a favorite local event, is held every March and welcomes skiers, w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

snowboarders, and telemarkers in pro and various recreation categories. “Fat and Baggy” tops the list of colorful competitions, but feature names like “pro bump,” shitz n pantz,” and the “steilhung,” help create something of an Olympicsounding event. The top speed so far, reached by local competitor Josh Daigle, is 76 mph.

The ski area’s manager from 1984-2008, Jim Sullivan first raced the Town Downhill in 1982.

He’s missed the race only once (in 1993) and has been on skis an average of 100-plus days a season for the last 35 years. “And I’ve never had a bad year,” he says. “It feels like a whole new mountain each season.”

In addition to racing, Snow King is expanding its terrain park to attract all mountain enthusiasts. “The expansion gives skiers and riders of all abilities the opportunity to develop their skills in a spacious, centralized location,” says Ennis.

“We are proud to work closely with the Jackson Hole Ski and Snowboard Club to support up-andcoming local skiers and riders.”

In his second year as head coach for JH Ski

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Jonathan Selkowitz (left); Bob Woodall (torchlight) Torchlight parades on Snow King are impressive from all over town.

With two new snowcats for grooming, The King maintains prime conditions for guests and racers alike.

Gladed tree runs—a Town Hill feature with a future

SKI JACKSON HOLE

and Snowboard Club, Todd Travis lauds Snow King’s service to the club. “They pretty much bend over backwards for us,” he says.

“And you just don’t get that anywhere else.”

With two new snowcats for grooming, The King maintains prime conditions for guests and racers alike. “It’s one of the best training venues anywhere,” he adds. “It’s great snow for training and racing.” Ennis echoes Travis’s sentiments: “We want to continue our progress with gains in grooming capabilities and snowmaking, striving to provide a better snow experience for skiers and riders.”

Despite the changing times, Snow King also maintains friendly prices for locals and visitors. Early season pass prices total $129, including either a patch or pint. Enjoy $2 pints at The Lounge, the King’s in-house bar, 3-6 p.m daily when you purchase an early season pass. Day tickets are still an affordable

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The Town Square Inns are located in the heart of Jackson Hole, just minutes from world-renowned skiing at the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort.

www.townsquareinns.com . Jackson, Wyoming Reservations 1-800-4-TETONS

option: full-day $41, half $31, and two-hour $22. If you have to work days, Snow King also offers a $20 night-skiing pass, beginning at 4 p.m. every Tuesday through Saturday.

Apart from skiing and riding, Snow King Center is home to the Jackson Hole Moose Hockey Club, and the valley’s only full-size ice rink. Backed by a devoted fan base, the “Moose” often play to sold-out crowds on Friday nights.

Male, female, and co-ed hockey is a popular pastime at the center and public skating is also available, both indoors and out.

The resort’s King Tubes Park enters its 11th season and remains one of the most cherished family activities in the valley. Situated adjacent to the base summit lift, the tube ride is a rush down the barrel of a gun, with guests soaring down the course at dizzying, yet safe, speeds.

The tube park is open weekdays 2 p.m. to 8 p.m., beginning Dec. 13, but opens at noon on weekends.

As Jackson Hole continues to grow as a winter destination, Snow King resort is keeping pace. An all-inclusive resort with proximity to activities, nightlife, and adventure, convenience is the hallmark of the King experience. Snow King is keeping community at the center of its future, striking a balance between local loyalties and destination allure.

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Jeff Burke is a freelance writer living in Jackson, Wyoming.

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Looking for

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Snow King Resort offers exciting winter recreation for all ages!

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Located in the town of Jackson at Snow King Mountain.

From the town square, take Cache Street south to Snow King Avenue, turn left and continue to Resort. w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

restaurant & lounge WINTER ACTIVITIES: skiing, snowboarding, night skiing, terrain park, King Tubes snow tube park, ice skating, and more!

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Grand Targhee Resort

Progressive march matched by local communities

by Brigid Mander

Targhee quietly receives over 500 inches during an average season, but rarely will you find yourself stuck in a buzz-killing, mind-numbing lift line. Even on the deepest powder days, the ski hill manages to keep its relaxed vibe, and its lift lines at a minimum. Maybe that is owed in part to the fact that over here, powder days are pretty common on what is known as the snowier side of the Tetons. The nearby towns of Driggs, Victor, and Tetonia, Idaho, help nurture the laid-back feeling that ski towns risk losing when their slopes become so famous. Locals and visitors alike revel in the fact that they can stroll up to the chair in the mornings and slide right on. After all, it’s pretty nice not to have to shower in your coffee and inhale breakfast while running to the lift line, at a full sprint, in pre-dawn light.

A ride up Dreamcatcher, the area’s only quad lift, will bring you to the top of Fred’s Mountain. Wide-open groomers drop off in all directions, eventually curving back to the base. Powder reserves can usually be found on Mary’s Nipple or Peaked Peak, which are hiking only, but controlled for avalanches by the ski area.

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McKoy photos

Viewed from the west, the imposing Teton Range has a distinctly different feel from the jagged sight looming on the massif’s eastern side. The giant peaks appear smoother, more defined, and even the air, rushing around in a wide-open sky, seems different. Beneath this view, sits Grand Targhee Resort, basking in grandeur, isolation, and most importantly during winter, deep, deep, powder.

Powder days are pretty common on what is known as the snowier side of the Tetons. Powder reserves can usually be found on Maryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Nipple or Peaked Peak, which are hiking only. Skiers: Bissell Hazen, Jeff Leger, Jason Tattersall, and Todd Jones (TGR)

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™

If you’ve got bigger plans (and the proper gear), you can always stop in at the patrol shacks for a quick rundown on recent snow activity, stability, and whether the boundary gates are open at that time.

Compared with the backcountry around Jackson, most of the out-ofbounds at Targhee is smaller—and friendlier—to less-experienced backcountry travelers. But beware: following tracks might bring you down a line left by one of the many local skiers who think little of a 50-foot air, since Targhee’s famed backside is the secret haunt of many a professional bigmountain extreme skier. Despite being able to claim itself the proving grounds of one of the world’s top big-mountain skiers, Sage CattabrigaAlosa, Targhee keeps its mellow, inviting feeling.

With a reputation for some of the most family-friendly terrain in the region, intermediate skiers feel comfortable exploring much of the in-bounds terrain. The classic Targhee-style run features rolling open-terrain, groomers, and glades. And let’s be honest, there is pretty much no level of skier who can’t fully appreciate the good times to be had on a long, smooth, fat (and uncrowded!) groomed run. A day spent lapping Dreamcatcher lift, however, is definitely enough to tire out even everyday skiers.

The littlest skiers haven’t been shortchanged either; there is a whole section of fun short trails through the woods, like Eye Ball Forest and Wacky Weasel Way. Grownups have been known to ski through here—even without kids to chaperone. Professional skier Jason following tracks Tattersall (who has been spotted on aforementioned kids’ trails) sums up a trip might bring you down a line to Targhee in this way: “Check out Jackson for the left by one of the many local hype, then head over to ‘Mom and Pop’ Targhee; skiers who think little of a 50you might just get one of the best powder days you’ll foot air, since Targhee’s famed ever have.”

At the end of the day, backside is the secret haunt of skiers converge at the famous Trap Bar, currently many a professional bigthe only bar at the base.

But that just makes it bet- mountain extreme skier. ter. Great bar food, beers, and often live music—any more than this just makes après ski too complicated.

But for even more local flavor, join some of the ski bums and head down to Victor or Driggs for burgers and beers at the town grills.

The tenacity of all this mellow, however, is about to be put to its first big test, following the Teton County Commission’s approval of an expansion of base area lodging from 96 beds to 450, and the addition of a new lift up Peaked Peak, both of which will see groundbreaking next spring. The new chairlift will provide access to 1,000 acres of terrain that is currently used for SnowCat Adventures, the resort’s cat-skiing operation, spreading out the skiers at Targhee even more.

Beware:

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Skiers, from top: Jason Tattersall; Jeff Leger; unknown local

McKoy (2); Woodall (left)

The resort is trying to stay as green as possible in the face of its expansion. The new buildings will be LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certified, and Targhee “is doing every single possible thing we can to be environmentally sound,” notes Dave Hudacsko, a Targhee spokesman. Targhee also retains a sustainability director and is a founding member of the Climate Registry, where businesses voluntarily track and report their greenhouse gas emissions in order to reduce them. Also in the works, added Hudacsko, are small research projects to see what sort of alternative energies will benefit the resort.

The progressive march of Targhee is matched by its nearest local communities, Victor and Driggs. For years, these areas remained sleepy little western farm towns, and while they have so far managed to retain their quaint, under-the-radar feel, they are also at a crossroads for new development. An influx of people to the area has brought new restaurants, music, art

Leon Weston lives the heritage

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by Brigid Mander

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Getting onto Leon â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Slimâ&#x20AC;? movies and innumerable Westonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chairlift is something press clippings. that Targhee visitors usually Even with the inevitable donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget. Smiling from changes, Targhee retains the under the brim of his Western local-hill feeling with its staff, hat, greeting skiers like long many of whom are farmers lost family, he doles out mini down in the valley in the sumshoulder massages, inquires mer. People who come from after your skiing happiness, far away states to work here and remembers your name. figure things out right away, And so things have gone for notes Carol Eck, lift supervifour decades, although, acsor and herself a veteran of 15 cording to Slim, who has years. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have a problasted through four different lem with people fittinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; right resort owners, things have in,â&#x20AC;? she says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t take changed â&#x20AC;&#x153;a whole bunch.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;em long to see how things An Idaho farmer and work. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a great place, and lots horseman himself, Slim Leon â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Slimâ&#x20AC;? Weston of fun.â&#x20AC;? She and Slim agree the started running lifts on Targheeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s opening day, best part of their jobs is seeing the people, espein December 1969. The third generation of the cially those who come back year after year. original families that came are still skiing As for Slim, he may be getting the travel bug Targhee, and saying hello to Slim at Dream- himself after greeting people from all over the catcher. Perhaps the most famous personage at world for 40 years. Although he wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t say how Targhee now, Slim actually got his nickname much longer he will be at Targhee, for now, you from Warren Miller when he rode up to the ski can still catch him smiling at the base of Dreamhill on horseback, landing a spot in Millerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s catcher.

right on Main Street somehow fits right into the quiet thoroughfares and one, blinking, traffic light.

Yes, valley farms still irrigate lush crops, cows low on neighboring ranches, local produce abounds, and everybody knows everybody else.

But when the snow flies, farmers become skiers, and ski bums head not across the pass but up to Targhee, where the friendly rural vibe from their towns is matched by the mellow ski hill with the big terrain, nicely tucked away from the hype.

Brigid Mander is a writer based in Wilson, Wyoming.

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Grand Targhee continued... galleries, different cultures, and businesses supplying an ever-expanding array of options. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Ten or twenty years ago, living in Victor or Driggs was like living in the Twilight Zone,â&#x20AC;? says Sara Deutsch, a skier and entrepreneur based in Victor.

But now it is totally feasible to live, ski, work, and have a great time without crossing the pass to Jackson every day, she adds.

Despite the new businesses and influences, the towns are still far from being cosmopolitan.

Which, over here, is a good thing. Being able to get great Thai food or inspired nouveau cuisine from a chic urban bistro, or buy stylish ski gear

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Pinedale, Wyoming Home of White Pine Ski Resort

by Joy Ufford

• Indoor Pool & Jacuzzi • Free Continental Breakfast • Free High-Speed Internet • Refrigerator and microwave in every room • Located minutes from White Pine Ski Area

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Reservations 1-866-995-6343 52

J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R 2 0 0 9

The LODGE AT PINEDALE

said Mindi Crabb, marketing director for the Pinedale Tourism Bureau. “And White Pine is our own wonderful familyfriendly ski area.”

White Pine Resort owners Stuart and Mary Thompson hold an image in mind as they painstakingly develop the ski area into a jewel of the mountains just 10 miles from Pinedale. Stuart, also the resort mountain manager, describes their endeavors to spotlight the excellent skiing and snowboarding by crafting a welcoming atmosphere reminiscent of “the old days.”

Part of their snow success is due to the resort’s base elevation–at 8,400 feet almost a thousand feet higher than Snow King’s peak, Stuart explained.

“That makes the difference between our snow and theirs,” Thompson said, matter-of-factly. “That’s just the way it is.

We have the best skiing for the greatest part of the year—that’s what White Pine is all about.”

Although White Pine doesn’t pile up the snow all at once, what falls at White Pine is called “cowboy powder” because it’s easy for anyone to ski. And being tucked 88 miles away from Jackson Hole holds advantages, one being that a week after a snowstorm, skiers can still find untouched powder at White Pine.

The alpine terrain consists of over 26 trails on Fortification Mountain, with a summit elevation of 9,500 feet. Two triple-chairs transport riders to both the summit and the beginner and intermediate trails. A wide variety of beginner-through-expert runs for alpine skiers, telemarkers, and snowboarders await guests. There are groomed trails as well as bump and powder runs.

Atop the resort’s Fortification Mountain is a contemplative overlook for ogling the rest of the world. Those who take in the summit can view Fremont Lake (a prime ice-fishing body), the Wind River Range and the Continental Divide (with its #1-rated 600-mile snowmobile trail system), and the Wyoming and Gros Ventre mountains, home to hundreds of miles of trails for skiing, wildlife watching, or snowmobiling.

Just outside the lodge runs part of an extensive and free 60-kilometer cross-country trail system that loops along groomed routes in and out of the resort and affords breathtaking views of the Wind River Range. “These are some of Wyoming’s best cross-country trails,” noted Thompson.

“They wind through the mountains in a beautiful, natural setting.”

Head into Pinedale for more dining and shopping. Catch a movie or visit one of the many special small-town events, whether in Pinedale or

Woodall

Imagine Wyoming’s old-time mountain men like Jim Bridger or William Sublette waking after a 250-year sleep, breaking trail down the mountainside through deep snowdrifts and finding themselves on the outskirts of Pinedale.

They’d probably whoop it up after discovering that their old stomping ground on the vast mountain-ringed sagebrush plain in the early 1800s is today a small, old-fashioned classic Western town.

Modern visitors to the heart of the Upper Green River Valley will feel just as festive. Pinedale’s unique character, ranching lifestyle, and scenic splendor remain entrenched in what we call “Mountain Man Country.” In spite of inevitable growth in both population and nearby energy industries, Pinedale—and the surrounding Sublette County—are among those increasingly rare places that have kept their Western identity and rural roots intact.

Where else but in Pinedale would you find that the local landmark is a mural of cows painted on a downtown building, then learn that the beautiful new Sublette County Visitor Center next door was specifically designed to preserve that larger-than-life artwork?

Outside, the new visitor center is dominated by an oversized “mountain man” cast in bronze, easily spotted by those seeking more information for their visit to Pinedale, the Upper Green River Valley, Jeff Leger and Hoback Basin.

Winter in the Pinedale region hints at an Mountain men and their colorful history are showcased inside, along with displays on wildlife, inner sense of isolation, but not loneliness, a sense local history, trapping, snowmobiling, skiing, fish- of personal adventure that isn’t defeating. Winter ing, hunting, the arts, and backcountry explo- is long enough, cold enough, and gorgeous enough to convert anyone into a modern-day ration.

That’s in part because Pinedale and surround- mountain man or woman.

The wintry diamond in the rough, so to ing communities carry on in their old-fashioned ways as did those rugged mountain men, but with speak, is White Pine Ski Resort, which is really more creature comforts when it comes to lodging, anything but rough.

“There are so many gorgeous places here,” dining, shopping, and having good fun.

farther afield in Boulder, Daniel, Big Piney, Marbleton, or Bondurant. A variety of entertainment awaits explorers who will find “all the civilization you need” in town.

In early December, check out the Wreath and Chocolate auction at the Museum of the Mountain Man (closed in winter except by advance reservations). Downtown Pinedale, of course, turns festive during the holidays with a lighted Christmas parade, tree-lighting ceremony and caroling, plus a “parade of homes” decorated inside and out.

Late December will see the Sonny Korfanta Giant Slalom, the “One-Lunger,” with vintage snowmachine races, the heartwarming “Celebration on Ice,” and more hometown fun. More info. at www.pinedaleonline.com/snowexplorers.

Back at White Pine, the old year fades into the new every Dec. 31 with a nighttime torchlight parade down the mountain. A chili feed helps fuel the excitement and warm the belly. Visit the website: www.whitepineski.com.

Mountain men of old would surely appreciate the Green River Classic, where sled dog mushers from around the country gather to test their mettle and that of their exuberant canines. Both 6and 12-dog teams are piloted around a snowy course in nearby Cora, Wyoming, on January 34, 2009. For more info. go to www.greenriverclassic.com The Green River Classic is a perfect warmup for the big one, though, the International Pedigree Stage Stop Sled Dog Race, set for February 2-3 this year. If you’re lucky enough to be in the area for this regional event, you can cheer on competitors and join in the festivities. This reallife event covers 500-plus miles in 11 days and highlights the small welcoming towns of Sublette and neighboring counties.

White Pine comes through again in February by hosting the Wyoming Senior Winter Games, featuring downhill and cross country skiing, a rifle biathlon, hockey, and more for competitors 50 and over. But the fun is for spectators of all ages. The games are slated for February 6-15 this year. For more info. go to www.wyswintergames.com

By March, the snow is melting in downtown Pinedale, but elsewhere it’s time for more ice fishing derbies, special ski events, and community “cabin fever” celebrations.

There are also ice-fishing derbies at Fremont Lake, skating and hockey at the Pinedale Ice Rink, Bondurant’s Mountain West Racing Sno-Cross extravaganza, cross-country and downhill ski contests for young and old, and special smalltown, big-fun community events. To get the upto-the-minute insight, go to Mountain ManCountry.com.

Would those old-time mountain men be whooping it up if they arrived in Pinedale today?

You can bet your long johns they would!

Writer Joy Ufford lives in Bondurant, where she helps feed cows, horses, and elk all winter. She is also a part-time writer for the Sublette Examiner in Pinedale. w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

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Mountain Guides

Bill Briggs

Mason Cassidy and Bissell Hazen on Spalding Peak

My most memorable time guiding was back in the late ‘70s with a group of three dozen Japanese that were skiing around the western United States.

They had a miserable time at all the ski areas. It was a bad year, miserable skiing. But it was a planned vacation and they couldn’t change anything. So the trip organizer came to me and said, “What can we do with these people?” and I said we’d take ‘em up on the Pass and get some good snow. He said, “Well, they will follow you until you make a mistake, and then I can’t predict what’s gonna happen.” I told him that was fine. You can’t go wrong on Teton Pass!

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We loaded them up in vans and took ‘em up to the Pass. And they were absolutely silent. They didn’t understand English anyway, and didn’t speak English, so we didn’t even try to get conversation going. I’m running shuttle, just driving. Other guides are guiding and they go out.

The first ones I pick up are over on the far side at Coal Creek, and they’re coming out and they’re jabbering like crazy. They get in the vehicle and it’s crowded—they are really jammed together. We start going back up the Pass and they start singing John Denver songs in English! Ahhhh!

Woodall (Briggs); McKoy (ski, climb)

Mountain guides experience their environment with an uncanny depth of feeling.

They seem to possess a sixth sense and have eyes in the backs of their heads. They’ve learned to see the world with a clarity and perception that focuses on success and safety.

That’s why we hire them, especially when success necessitates some failure, too.

We asked a few of Jackson Hole’s top mountain guides to tell us some stories. Stories that illustrate something poignant about guiding— the day’s beauty, ugliness, or otherwise unusual nature; mishaps or danger; joy or surprise; the quality of skiing, anything unique about a winter mountaineering experience.

We got some good ones.

They entertain, illustrate, educate, reveal historical perspective—all the things we hoped they’d do. Read them and gain some insight into the mountaineering life.

Ushers of the fantastic

Bill Briggs, recently inducted into the Skiing Hall of Fame, is perhaps best known for the first ski descent of the Grand Teton in 1971. His accomplishments don’t stop there, though.

I get them up to the top of the Pass and now I have to come back down this side to pick up the next group. It’s a race back and forth picking them up, and they’re all having a wonderful time. One fellow was a ski instructor from Japan, and he had gone with his wife in the slower group. After his first run he said, “Could I move up into the other group now? They guide my wife very well!” We passed muster with him. Did we ever!

They had a wonderful time, so we get back and have a student card we have everybody fill out with a success that they had. Well, it was all in Japanese, so I had to go to the tour leader and have him translate it. For that first group, it said of their guide, “John is a very good human being!” It

“We start going back up the Pass and they start singing John Denver songs in English! Ahhhh!”

Br iggs’s Résumé

was the first time they’d been treated as human beings in this country!

That was the most memorable one—it went so well. We didn’t have grooming in those days and Teton Pass was, well, it is still, excellent.

Another time we had a group of executives from Carrier, the air conditioning company. The higher ups had warned them not to go skiing because conditions were bad. I think the Village was closed. They were afraid someone might get hurt and then it would destroy the week’s meetings.

They had the Snow King Ski Patrol do a death and danger lecture! That didn’t help out the situation at all, so I gave ‘em a followup reading from my ski school manual on self determinism, saying essentially that a person is responsible for his own safety.

These are executives and, oh boy, they thought that was great. They jumped up and headed for the vehicles, all ready to go. And their higher-ups were still trying to stop ‘em, trying to talk ‘em out of it! One fellow says, “Okay, but you have to get me a car to bring me back ahead of the others.” Fine, we’ll arrange that. No problem.

So we take ‘em up skiing, ski ‘em down—and it was terrible. It was not good snow, but they had a great time. The one fellow that needed a car, we had a Subaru for him. And he was totally offended because it was not a limousine! The only car for him was a limousine! The other guys thought that this was great! They were patting me on the back!

I got fired at the Village, a misunderstanding basically, but anyway I got fired, so the question was: What to do? Betty Woolsey said, “Well, why w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

1955

1955 1956

First to ski the Bugaboos, solo

Full-certified ski instructor

Ski School Director, Sugarloaf, Maine

57-60 Owner/Director ski school, Suicide 6, Vermont Crystal Wright, southern Tetons

don’t you come guide with my clients,” her dudes, which she takes up on the Pass. So I did. I did that, and also started teaching for Bill Ashley at Snow King.

I went up with Betty, and that was a beautiful treat ‘cause she’d take the group around to where the best snow was—she knew the Pass better than anybody. We’d go around to different places, every day a new place to ski, with wonderful snow. Betty would use me as an example for her clients as to how to improve their skiing. Well, I don’t think I improved anyone’s skiing, but I had a wonderful time showing off! Betty would say, “Bill, go ski that,” and everyone would say, “That’s wonderful!”

It was a wonderful time.

I essentially didn’t make any money out of the whole thing, but I did get a personal showing of where was the best snow on a particular day, where to avoid the avalanches, all of the backcountry type of stuff, from Betty Woolsey. Okay?

That was a wonderful treat.

One of the best, most-memorable times on that was meeting Fritz Wiesner, a great mountain climber. I’d done some of his rock climbing routes in the East, and he’d done many routes in Europe before he came to this country. He was on an attempt to climb K2 in the late ‘30s and had climbed in the Tetons and all around the West. It was wonderful to meet him. We were up at the top of Shivers and going over to Olympic, and somebody had left something in the car. Fritz turned around to

1958

Led 100-mile ski traverse from Bugaboos to Rodgers Pass, BC

59-82 Exum mountain guide 1961

1962

1966 1967

1967

1968 1971

1973

1976

Second ski descent, Mt Rainier

Founding Scientologist Ski guide, Teton Pass

Owner/Director, Great American Ski School, Snow King

Second ski descent, Buck Mt

First descent, Middle Teton & Mt Moran First descent, Grand Teton Mt Owen Descent

Wrote and published Skier's Manual

1979

Wrote and published Ski Dictionary

1981

Ski area manager, Snow King

1979

Co-Founder Stagecoach Band

1980s Co-founder, American Mountain Guide Association

1993

Co-founder, Jackson Hole Hoot

2003

Inducted into Intermountain Ski Hall Of Fame

2006

International Skiing History Assoc. Special Ski Song Award

2005

2006

2009

Wrote and published Beginner-Intermediate Rhythmics , DVD

Ski Songs From the Dartmouth Era, song book and CD

Inducted into Skiing Hall of Fame

get it—old man goes back to get it and catches back up with us. Now, the stamina of this guy, at his age, was wonderful. And he did it just for fun.

A remarkable thing. Then we go ski with him and he can ski anything. And strong, at that age! It was inspiring to me. He came up with one of the best philosophies for doing risky things, which he called “calculated risk.” That was something he wrote about and came up with the idea on it, and I had based what I had done on it. And then to be able to go ski with the guy…

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Doug Workman

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“I keep the rope handy, but clearly am not going to need it.

With the climbing behind us, Simone is in his element, and for the time being it is easy to forget who is the client and who is the guide.”

The Grand Teton’s Ford Couloir (center of photo), “...a 1,500-foot-long, 52-degree funnel that ends with a 2,000-foot drop-off.”

Doug Workman is a mountain guide in the Tetons for Jackson Hole Mountain Guides and High Mountain Helicopter Skiing and in Alaska for Valdez Heli Ski Guides.

Bob Woodall (Grand); Tim Nickles (Workman)

Almost two years from the day we met, Simone Blei and I sit atop the Ford Couloir, about 100 feet shy of the Grand Teton’s 13,770-foot summit. Huddled in our down coats, we wait for the sun to soften the snow, which we spent the last six hours climbing. My eyes scan from Simone, sitting silently, to the summit. What we came for—the Ford—is now below us, but the summit still has its draw. Simone knows what I am thinking but doesn't share my summit fever. "Relax, Doug,” the Milano instructs. “The skiing looks like shit up there. This is the Italian summit."

Blei is among a growing breed of ski clients capable of descending runs that, until recently, were considered off-limits to recreational skiers. Years of skiing with guides in the Alps, Chugach, and Tetons have prepared Simone for some of the world’s most coveted descents. In between bouts with his office desk in Milan, he hopes to ski runs like the Marinelli Couloir on the Monta Rosa—a 6,600-foot, 45-degree face riddled with crevasses— and the Ford Couloir on the Grand Teton.

In fact, his tick list could be mistaken for my own.

Simone knows that such runs must be skied in perfect conditions, so he hires guides who track conditions and study stability while he plans marketing campaigns and monitors consumer indices. When the time is right, Simone grabs his skis and goes. He leaves his job and girlfriend behind—always somewhat unsure if they will be there upon his return—and heads for the mountains.

Despite his ambition, Simone still needs some prodding from time to time.

So, letting him rest a moment longer, I throw my skis over my shoulder and begin plodding to the top, slowly at first, to give him time to settle into the idea that we are not in Italy. We’re gonna ski from the top.

On the summit, Simone admits that this one was an ass-kicker. In fact, he concedes that there was a point, while slogging up the boot-deep, 50-degree snow in the Ford, that he was unsure if he would make it. Below us is a 1,500-foot-long, 52degree funnel that ends with a 2,000-foot drop-off. While Simone had his doubts on the ascent, he clicks into his K2s with complete confidence.

Off the top, I suggest Simone make some warmup turns. He smiles confidently, humoring me with a couple gentle arcs before heading for the Ford’s steeper right flank. I keep the rope handy, but clearly am not going to need it. With the climbing behind us, Simone is in his element, and for the time being it is easy to forget who is the client and who is the guide.

Diane Verna

Jeff Jung

Every year in May we with, but rain on a ski trip take a group of high school can really dampen the spirseniors from Colorado its. Especially high school Academy on a school-sponspirits. So we built a fire in sored camping and skiing the snow and taught the stutrip up Teton Canyon. The dents how to stay warm and treks combine education dry despite the weather. We and experience. These indemonstrated how layering trepid youngsters shoulder one’s clothing and huddling their heavy backpacks filled under a tarp can help keep with winter camping gear, one comfortable. However, Diane Verna has been an outdoor food, skis, and boots, and by the second day of rain the educator for over two decades. She and hike up the canyon through students were not buying the her husband own and operate Renvariable weather and snow fun factor and we were faced dezvous Backcountry Tours, based in conditions until we hit the with a Mutiny on the Bounty Alta, Wyoming. When not working snow line. We then change situation.

One student actushe likes to ski, bike, climb, and surf as into ski boots, put climbing ally tried to bribe us, saying, much as possible. skins on our skis, and tour “How much would it cost for seven miles into Alaska us to pack up right now and Basin. There we pitch our tents and create a small hike out of here tonight?” village in the wilderness.

They hung in there, though, and once we got One year, a change in the weather tried the back to Driggs, after hot showers and pizza, the mettle of these young skiers. We had had a perfect students were beaming from ear to ear from the day of skiing corn snow from Mt. Meek Pass below experience. They had accomplished something the rock face of Buck Mountain, and from Sheep’s that they never thought they could and had perseStep down to our camp, with no other ski lines in vered even when they wanted to give up. sight but our own. But then the sunny skies As instructors, we derive a great amount of clouded over and it began snowing. Unfortunately, pleasure from watching folks move beyond a comwhat was falling as snow a few hundred feet above fort zone, learn new skills, achieve goals, and have us was rain at our camp. an experience that will last with them for a lifeNow, rain is never all that much fun to deal time. It’s why we do what we do!

w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

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When Lynne Wolfe isn’t ski guiding for Rendezvous Ski Tours in the winter, she is teaching avalanche courses or editing The Avalanche Review. During the summer she is a mountain guide for Exum Mountain Guides in the Tetons.

Some of my best ski memories seem to repeat themselves yearly—and with the same group of clients, no less. These six ladies, all Jackson locals, can really ski. They are strong, love the powder, and don’t mind breaking trail when the conditions get really deep.

On our first excursion together, we toured into the Plummer Yurt on the western slope of the Tetons. We rounded out our arrival day by skiing deep powder on several short lines near the yurt. It was great skiing, but the next day— after a cozy and restful night in the yurt—was truly memorable.

We started with a 1,600-foot shot down into Game Creek. Then, after a spectacular milelong tour up the knife-edged Rhodesia Ridge, we stood above a 2,000-foot shot into a little-

Plummer Yurt

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Hannah Horigan

traveled fork of Game Creek. A bit of wind had blown on top of the old surface hoar, so I poked around in the snow a good amount before deciding that we were good to go.

One at a time, my ladies dropped into the first shot of shady, steep powder. Hoots and whistles followed in their wakes, as I watched carefully from my lookout below. The shot seemed to go on forever, and we finally returned to the yurt under a pink sky.

Now, four years later and two more yurt trips past, we still remember that Rhodesia shot as a ‘best-ever.’ We’ll see what this year’s Baldy Knoll trip brings—hopefully the steep, deep, and stable. But regardless of conditions, it’ll be memorable.

Molly Loomis (Wolfe); McKoy (ski, yurt, Pistono); Jacques Parker (art)

Lynne Wolfe

Lynsey Dyer

Jess McMillan

Jay Pistono

Untracked!

I was working with an Army Special Forces unit on their winter training. What they lack in ski ability, they make up for in persistence. They do some pretty gnarly stuff.

The Teton Crest Trail is a big thing to bite off.

We were coming over Hurricane Pass, heading down the South Fork of Cascade Canyon, when I

Personalized day tours a nd catered hut trips in the serenity of the Teton backcou ntry

“I protested once again, saying, ‘Someone is going to die here.’ He held his ground, though.”

In summer, Jay Pistono guides fishing for Westbank Anglers. In winter he splits his time between Jackson Hole Mountain Guides and his advocacy position, Teton Pass Ambassador.

ClimbingSkinsDirect.com

pulled the commanding officer aside to tell him that we needed to stay on the west side of the stream. Pretty soon we would run out of snow bridges and get pushed up against the northwest ridge of the Grand. Then we’d be stuck, because it turns into a gorge. It was springtime, so the creek was gnarly.

He said, “Oh, this will be a perfect military challenge.”

I said, “It’s crazy. I don’t want to cross that thing.”

But he decided to surprise his men with the obstacle. Every day he set a challenge. The day before, he commanded, “You need to break through, up to that ridge, within twenty minutes!” So they would take turns breaking trail, go as fast as they could, and do it. No matter how difficult.

I protested once again, saying, “Someone is going to die here.” He held his ground, though, and we went across the last snow bridge and skied towards the void.

I showed them how to set up a Tyrolean traverse. The water was upper-chest deep and raging, but they kept trying. It was the gnarliest human thing I’ve ever seen.

Finally, one guy made it across. It was like watching an action hero. I would have bet a million-to-one against it. The place they had chosen was not for the timid.

Once across, he got the Tyrolean going, got all their skis and everything across; it took a long

877.754.4887 www.SkiTheTetons.com

time, but they did it. They made harnesses with their military webbing. We had set up a retrievable Tyrolean and they were psyched to learn that.

They’re not great skiers, but they would cross this amazing terrain with heavy packs. You just didn’t hear any complains. They would fall 40 times just getting down a short slope. They would help each other up, super into the team concept, reluctant to give up any weight. I was so impressed.

Jacques Parker, on his drawings—”As a member of the 10th during World War II, I had the unique opportunity (whenever possible) to capture on paper the scenes as they occurred…the villages, children, people, the Alpini and partisans we worked with; the combat in those mountains. Sixty original illustrations, many with written accounts of the scene, make up my exhibit, “A Mountaineer’s Dream.”

After the war, I continued my art and enjoyed working with Betty Woolsey on a scene for a Jackson Hole ad in SKI magazine.

For more information on “A Mountaineer’s Dream,”contactJacquesParkerat212-243-6416.

GREAT SKINS GREAT PRICES

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Eric Henderson

Eric Henderson is a certified AMGA ski mountaineering guide and Level Three PSIA telemark instructor, the head guide for Jackson Hole Alpine Guides, and the operations director for Valdez Heli Ski Guides. A sponsored athlete for Karhu, Scarpa, and G3, he has been on ski-mountaineering expeditions to Everest and China's Altai Mountains and skied many notable lines in Alaska, B.C., and the Tetons, including the only freeheel descent of the Grand Teton's Otter Body.

Unknown skier

Eric Henderson

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us. So to be out there, setting the charge ourselves, on the anniversary of the day he perished—it’s something that he would’ve been proud of.

A lot of us alpine guides feel like we are stewards of the backcountry, in the sense that we have a good pulse on the snowpack and a good pulse on the community at large.

Clients trust their guides to take them to a safe place, one that also promises good snow.

But, there is a funny saying: “What do condoms and ski guides have in common? It’s safer with, but more fun without!” So I never put myself on a higher pedestal than my clients and I always make sure I’m grounded with them. I have education and experience with guiding, but I’m no better than anyone else out there. If you’re skiing with me, we’re having fun from the moment we click in to the moment we finish, and that’s usually at the bar.

Opening Powder 8 Face is always a highlight for me as a guide. It’s like one of those waves where you paddle out and you don’t really know how big it’s going to be until you’re looking up at that first set rolling in. On January 9, 2008, we had 14 inches overnight and a slabbing layer that was not being very reactive. We left the upper elevations—Cody, Four Shadows— to the public skiers and powered right out to Powder 8 Face. It’s such a big face and there’s so much assessment that goes into it: Wind, new temperature. How

Jeff Leger

McKoy (ski); Dave Barnett (Henderson); Woodall (snowboard); Julie Zell (Weeks)

“This particular day, it was like riding the perfect tube; there was just glassy, glassy, waist-deep, light-density powder; seeing the public on our tails, but knowing we were going to get two laps on that blank canvass.”

One of my favorite all-time days is April 3: Coombs Day. “Cody for Coombs” is a new slogan, and for two years now, with clients, we’ve enjoyed some of the best, light-density spring powder skiing on Cody Peak on that day. We’ve been able to get out ahead of the public, open up Powder 8 Face, and then make our way to No Name Face. The public is out there charging too, and everybody having strong legs in the late spring—we could feel Coombs’s presence among us.

One morning was cold, crisp—great conditions: fat sloughs, but low-to-moderate hazard. Ideal Teton big-line skiing, pretty much exactly how Dougie would have wanted it. He was always the person who set the charge for a lot of

much is the sun going to affect it? Did the wind slab it?

This particular day it was like riding the perfect tube; glassy, waist-deep, light-density powder; seeing the public on our tails, but knowing we were going to get two laps on that blank canvass. Assessing it as you climb, telling your clients to space out, one at a time, give safe distances. Dig a pit. To open a slope like that is what keeps me doing what I do.

Because the clients get such a charge out of it, and I get such a charge out it.

Crystal Wright

Jamie Weeks For the past 10 years I’ve inThere’s a whole new structed and guided a family that learning curve to go has become close, and with through: hiking in deep whom I’ve had so many great snow, not falling in the times. We’ve skied in Jackson flat spots—so many difHole and Alaska. We’ve shared ferent things to consider 100s of lunches. They even threw as a guide. me a surprise party at their After a few trips Teton Village house and invited down Rock Springs and all my friends. I taught them Four Pines, we finally how to fish on a six-day trip in got the bluebird day and Idaho. We’ve been to a lot of Red stable snowpack that I Socks-Yankee games. We have a needed to take them up relationship.

Cody Peak to ski Four Jamie Weeks, seen here with Steve I began teaching the father Shadows, No Shadows, and Ruben Johnson, guides for the and son, Steve and Ruben Johnand Powder 8 Face.

Jackson Hole Mountain Resort and son, through an odd circumThen, last winter, I fiTogwotee Snowcat Guides (lead stance. Steve took the lessons he nally traversed them out guide) in winter, and in spring for originally had purchased for his to No Name Face. For a Valdez Heli Ski Guides in Alaska. He wife and daughter after 11-yearsnowboarder, it’s not is a snowboard-products designer old Emma broke her wrist 30easy to get out there. and tester for K2 Snowboards and a class-five white-water guide. minutes into our first lesson. I still That was one of my get blamed for that to this day. proudest moments— Over the last ten years—while I grew as an in- after 10 years of riding with these guys, to watch structor, became an alpine guide, began guiding them arcing beautiful turns down No Name Face.

Ten years of work went into those turns, on my part and theirs. It made a huge circle complete.

There were bad days, too: bitter cold, wind, no snow, bad snow, sometimes too much powder, and sometimes at those Red Socks-Yankee games!

I don’t think you can have a relationship like this at any other mountain. The terrain progression they’ve accomplished at Jackson Hole could not have happened anywhere else in the country. And after 10 years of that, the Johnsons are close to being family.

Cisco Oldani

“But Ruben had eight-yearold needs: animal trail jumps, and hot chocolate with ungodly amounts of whipped cream.” heli-skiing in Valdez, Alaska, and became the lead guide at Togwotee Snow Cats at the north end of Jackson Hole—Steve and Ruben continued to grow as snowboarders. They hired me on their annual trips to Jackson Hole, improved their skills, and expanded their comfort on the steeps to a point where I felt very comfortable taking them to Valdez, Alaska, the most extreme place I guide.

Most of their progression came from runs like Tower Three, the Alta Chutes, and the Hobacks.

And when the backcountry opened, they had gained the skills to be out there, too. But as any snowboarder in the valley knows, being in the backcountry on a snowboard can be very difficult. w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

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Kent McBride (left); Greg Collins (right); McKoy (bottom)

Greg Collins

Greg Collins, a mountain guide and avalanche educator based in Victor, Idaho, has been climbing in the Tetons since 1976. He has summitted the Grand Teton 260 times, by 30 different routes. He loves to blend skiing and climbing, and has skied from all the major summits in the range.

“World Cup and Olympic slalom skier Arne Hardenberg single-pitched a sunsoftened Sliver Couloir with gatebashing quickness.

Later, from our igloo camp, we made a nerve wracking hardpack descent of the Middle Teton's Chouinard Couloir.”

Generations of skiers have used Jackson Hole's towering mountains to advance the sport of ski mountaineering. Skiing on the tracks of our predecessors, we’ve seen our ski runs grow smoother, speedier, and safer. Evolving equipment, fitness, tactics—and, recently, ski guides— have allowed remarkable runs in technical terrain after arduous climbs.

What will the signatures of the next generation of Teton ski mountaineering freeriders look like?

As a guide and avalanche educator I am honored to help, if only in a small way, advance Teton powder mountaineering. For more than 15 years I have taught and led seasoned ski-area schralpers looking to advance their backcountry awareness in the classrooms, snowpits, couloirs, and rappels of the Tetons.

Some memorable guided classes include the American Avalanche Institute Level II course when Travis Rice and Bryan Iguchi ripped down Nez Perce's West Hourglass Couloir, riding rodeo, in the last light of a November day. And an hour later sparks from their edges illuminated the night as we bounced from rock to rock in the shallow snow of Garnet Canyon.

Then there was Exum Mountain Guides Level III class when World Cup and Olympic slalom skier Arne Hardenberg single-pitched a sun-softened Sliver Couloir with gate-bashing quickness.

Later, from our igloo camp, we made a nerve wracking hard-pack descent of the Middle Teton's Chouinard Couloir.

This past summer, Exum guide Kent McBride invited me to help lead and photograph a ski descent of the Grand. Our client, Kevin Learned, 17, had already mastered the ways of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Kevin is a young freeride team coach from Killington, Vermont, and he and Kent had just skied the Middle Teton's Northwest Couloir. Kevin has now, already, skied and roped his way down two of the Tetons’ highest peaks.

On the other end of the age spectrum, Jan

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Dan Helmstrader summits the Grand Teton.

Grudziak, a 55-yearold surgeon from Pittsburg, grew up skiing the lifts of Eastern Europe. Last season his wife bought him a present from hell, when after five days of skiing the local ski resorts, she booked him a Jackson Hole Mountain Guides trip up Mt. Albright in Grand Teton National Park. Jan was tired; but the beauty of the national park kept him trudging up the mountain. Four thousand feet of untracked snow revitalized him on the descent.

Several years ago, I met young Dan Helmstrader climbing above Teton Pass. As we skied Glory Slide a few times that day, I realized that he was going to be a core climber and skier. But he

was living out of his vehicle and was poorly equipped, so I lent him a shovel and gave him an old Pieps avalanche transceiver.

Two seasons later I found that old yellow beeper tacked to a board at the Jackson Hole Mountain Guides office. His note thanked me for the gear and asked me to guide him on a climb and ski of the Grand Teton.

We climbed and skied the Grand later that April in artistic precision. Conditions were full and excellent. The thick snowpack yielded a stable, dense carpet of snow. Easy skinning and a little ski cramponing brought us to Jackson Hole Mountain Guides Corbet High Camp under the Grand’s Southeast Face. The next morning we set out on the climb. The mountain was cold and quiet. Avalanche hazard was low. The waterfall ice in the Chevy Couloir was wide. On the summit we looked out over all the snow-covered mountains, clicked into our bindings and skied.

Since our run down the Ford and Stettner couloirs three seasons ago, Dan has gone on to solo the route and become one of the most active and seasoned ski mountaineers on the continent. Some of his recent ski runs are web-posted on www.turns-all-year.com.

His remarkable climbs and skis include runs down Mt. Rainier, Mt. Robson, Mt. Hood, and Mt. Moran, among many other peaks. When other skiers thought conditions were too difficult, Dan went ahead and skied—mostly solo.

Even though as Teton ski guides we break the trail, assess the snowpack, lead the climbing pitches, and teach awareness, we often learn as much as we teach. I for one can't wait to see where this newfound knowledge will lead.

World Cup and Olympic skier Tommy Moe, southern Tetons

Stephen Koch (right); Holt Condren (left)

Stephen Koch

Stephen Koch is a senior guide with Exum Mountain Guides, founder and president of the Avalanche Awareness Foundation, a realtor with Art Hazen Real Estate LLC, and a sponsored athlete who loves turning people on to fun and challenging adventures, from the Tetons to Tibet.

Last summer, on June 11, I attempted to climb and snowboard the Grand Teton on the 19th anniversary of my first snowboard descent of the peak with Tom Turiano and Andy Matz. Tom, my good friend and fellow guide, and 63-year-old Yves DesGouttes, a client and friend, and I were particularly excited to be up there together on the anniversary.

It hadn’t stopped snowing all spring, and here we were still experiencing storms halfway into June. But we decided to head up anyway because it was the only time our schedules allowed. The unruly weather prevented safe passage to the Lower Saddle on the Grand, but through the kindness of some fellow guides, we spent the night at the Jackson Hole Mountain Guides camp, descended the next morning in high winds, and reached town under very blustery conditions.

“As Yves prepared for his first turn, I sent him positive energy and strength.”

Three-and-a-half weeks later, the next opportunity Yves and I had to climb and ski together, we chose to tackle Moran’s Skillet Glacier, another classic Teton route on Yves’s wish list. Moran’s massive face loomed before us as we sped across Jackson Lake on the chartered motorboat. We were filled with excitement for the adventure that lay ahead.

Stepping off the bow of the boat, we were immediately challenged to uncover the vague route through the tangled forest. After a couple of hours we had negotiated the worst of it and were making good progress towards our camp, a beautiful exposed ridge high on the south side of the Skillet’s pan. We packed light, carrying only sleeping bags, bivy sacs, a stove, fuel, and food. We reached our camp in the evening, ate, and went to sleep. w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Yves DesGouttes, Skillet Glacier

We rose early the next morning, and laid into the corn snow unroped, crampons and ice axe giving good purchase. The freezing temps made for fast climbing. Near the top of the route, the runnel wasn’t as big as it gets later in the year, and I thought we could ride across it. We climbed up into the crux, with the face falling away beneath us past a couple of steep sections at the top of the handle.

On the flat and expansive summit we enjoyed the view. The Cathedral Group looks pretty small from that far north in the range.

I had skied with Yves before and was confident he could handle this descent. As a guide, it is my job to know my client’s ability, especially on an exposed and consequential big mountain like Moran. I reiterated the importance of being in control, because we were not warmed up and the beginning section is the critical spot, where a flubbed turn would likely send the careless alpinist cartwheeling to his death.

As Yves prepared for his first turn, I sent him positive energy and strength. He made his first turn and was “on it.” I breathed a sigh of relief and started down after him, enjoying the steep and exposed turns as we leapfrogged our way down.

The runnel was crossable without too much trouble, which is not always the case. Later in the year it grows unridable and more challenging. You have to remove boards, put on crampons, and climb across the runnel.

But not that day!

It’s magnificent to be descending the Skillet Glacier, a classic and beautiful line with a commanding view of Jackson Lake. I watched as Yves gracefully turned towards a rollover that had me thinking he would continue right into Jackson Lake!

I like knowing that the snow I am making turns on will melt and feed Jackson Lake, then the Snake River, and eventually the hot shower that beats against my head as I fondly reminisce about the turns I made with Yves that fine summer morning down the Skillet.

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Teton Pass Ambassador Jay Pistono

Skier: Nate Siegler

W

Working for the U.S. Forest Service and Friends of Pathways as an advocate of skier & snowboarder safety, pet control, and a liaison between winter backcountry users and public agencies, Teton Pass Ambassador Jay Pistono is stoked on how things are going.

Then, at least, you look smarter.”

Another big one: Be ready to jump in that car. Don’t make the driver wait. It’s inconsiderate—and it’s dangerous!

“Last year this poor lady, a commuter at the end of her long workday, had to stop behind someone picking up hitchhikers who

Sunrise and a setting moon play on Glory Bowl and Little Tuckerman’s on Teton Pass.

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McKoy photos

“Most of the contacts I have are positive,” he says. “People I talk to about their pets, the kids I talk to about how they ski to keep it safe for everybody else—not jumping in behind people on big days, stuff like that—people are pretty open to, pretty receptive.”

His first priority, though, is providing a liaison between highway workers and skiers, giving a voice to the highway patrol, the sheriff ’s deputies, and the plow drivers.

“They were pretty happy with us last winter,” he notes, relieved. “People tend to have a knee-jerk reaction to those guys, but they’re not up there to bust us. They’ve got a job to do.”

That job is to keep the public safe, and the ambassador would like to see skiers consider that at all times, to use common sense and to think for themselves.

“If your dog doesn’t pay attention to cars, keep it on a leash when you’re walking up the road,” he suggests. “If it’s bad visibility, get up out of the roadbed so if a plow is coming down and a car is coming up, they don’t swerve into each other when they see you at the last second.”

Walking in single file and hitchhiking from safe places top his list of suggestions.

“Last year I was constantly shocked at people hitchhiking at the base of Glory,” he recalls. “Okay, it has a million tracks and it’s not going to slide that day. But why not go up the road a hundred feet?

weren’t ready and didn’t get in the car fast enough,” he laments. “She couldn’t get going again and asked them for a push, and they took off!

Left her! Come on!

“That reflects poorly on all of us.

They could have given her a push.

But instead, they split and she had to put her chains on, crawling under her car, out in the highway. That’s sketch.

The highway patrol is not busting people for hitchhiking (it’s illegal in Wyoming). But they will if it causes an accident.”

Issues stemming from the often overcrowded parking lot seem to have settled down, but room for improvement exists.

“A few people still park below the signs,” he says. “I guess they just want to learn the hard way. It’s a huge ticket, plus your car is gone when you get back from skiing! They don’t give warnings anymore. If you park there, you’re going to get towed. It’s the The early bird gets the worm—or, in this case, the freshies. most expensive ski day possible!

“People should try and park tight— slope nice and light—not heavy on their turns— a door-width is room enough. Things will be doing all the little things experienced backcountry going fine, and then four or five cars will park in skiers do to make their runs safe. If you don’t a super hurry, and there’s room for one more car know what all those little things are, then you within that batch. It adds up, and on most busy need to take a class to be aware of them.” days there could be two or three more parking One bummer that even the best skiers inflict spaces if people kept it together. Having those on Jay’s proposed safety net is “the time factor.” extra spaces would help keep people from having “We have a really active population,” he acto wait. And when you are waiting for a space to knowledges. “Sometimes people are on a time open up, try not to be too close to the eastbound budget. They’ve got to get the work, and that lane. The highway patrol would really appreciate makes them do things they might not normally do. that, especially when there is bad visibility.

If there’re two or three people in the bowl, maybe “It’s such a busy place. If they are staging a res- they’re not going to wait for those people to exit. cue from up there, you might have to stay out of There’re going to be times when multiple people that lot. Go somewhere else, like down to Mail are in that bowl. It’s just the nature of the beast.

Cabin. Don’t try and snake the last spot and make “People then have to identify the potential them ask you to move so they can get one of their slide zone, the number of tracks that have been rescue trucks in there.” put in an area, and if there’s a natural feature that Last winter the highway was closed when a makes the people below safe. You have to be able skier or snowboarder put a small slide across the to guage where that slide path is going to run if road. you put something down and where the people “This year they will fine skiers who put slides below are compared to that. across the road,” he says. “Obviously it’s a safety “That doesn’t really get communicated beissue: you could kill someone. But it’s a resource cause people are in different groups, but you can issue, too. They have to pull equipment from an- be smart enough about it. Sometimes a slide path other job. They like to plan for that situation, with surprises us where it runs but, for the most part, equipment and commuter traffic closures, when you should be able to identify where a slide path they shoot the Pass.” that you put down might run.

As for seeing tracks in Glory Bowl on days “But if somebody is down there standing in with a high-avalanche warning, Jay likes to re- the middle of the bowl, just totally clueless, and mind people that all skiers are not created equal. you’ve been waiting a long time for them to exit He offered an example. “People see tracks out to an island of safety or to continue their run coming down Glory on a huge day and tend to down, and they are doing something that’s totally say, ‘That’s the place to go.’ Maybe it is, maybe it a Gumby move, you can either go ski something isn’t. Depends on how you ski it. Some skiers are else, or ski down to them and give them a little lestalented and knowledgeable. They aren’t affecting son: ‘Dude, you’re standing out in a really dangerthat slope the same way as somebody skiing ‘wide ous spot. If this bowl slides it’s going to come down with pride’—making big turns back and forth on you.’ There’s always a way to present informaacross the slope, like a ‘troller doing a ski cut. tion where people tend to accept it. Don’t jump “Don’t assume those twelve tracks mean it’s down their throat.” safe. Those skiers might have ripped down the That’s how Jay does it. w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

“I let people walk all over me just to get my point across,” he explains.

“If people get ‘agro,’ shouting at me, I’m just gonna be totally chill. I’ve taken that attitude and I’m gonna stick with that. Not be confrontational, even with the ‘bilers who break the boundary.”

“It’s mostly positive up there,” he concludes. “The mutt mitt cans, for instance, which I used to empty once a month, I now empty twice a week.

People are using them.

“I think a lot of people feel like they are deputized. They are not afraid to speak to people, ‘Hey there’s a mutt mitt can right there.

How about putting it to use?’ Because I’m just one guy. And if you give people an idea of how it can work for everybody else, they are going to share that.” — JH Skier The position of Teton Pass Ambassador benefits from the support of several local agencies and businesses, including Tim Young, (Executive Director, Friends of Pathways), Linda Merigliano (Program Manager, United States Forest Service), Cloudveil, Skinny Skis, Wilson Backcountry Sports, and Teton Mountaineering. All of these share a common goal: continued access to public lands via Teton Pass.

COME AND STAY WITH US.

Enjoy a comfortable, pleasant and inexpensive stay at the base of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort.

Enjoy the magnificent and breathtaking country.

1 or 2 persons $109.00 3 or 4 Persons $119.00

Box 583, Teton Village, Wyoming 83025 • 307-733-3415 • FAX: 307-739-1142 http://www.thehostel.us info@thehostel.us 2 0 0 9 J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R

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Avalanche Awareness The numbers are ominous and worth heeding: 13 avalanche-related deaths in the Teton and Snake River Ranges during the last decade. The toll in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem even more unsettling: 57 fatalities at the cold hand of avalanches.

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by Sarah Carpenter

Dave Miller studies the snowpack.

Huckers like this unknown skier triggered several small slabs on No Name that day.

insight into winter safety by attending local avalanche awareness nights in both Jackson (December 4 at Snow King) and Driggs (December 3 in the high school auditorium). These are evenings of presentations, exhibitors, and door prizes all related to snow and avalanches.

The more time folks want to spend in the backcountry, though, the more they should know about it. A Level I program is a three-day intro-

one is caught. By applying these skills, in conjunction with the daily avalanche-hazard forecast from the Bridger-Teton avalanche forecast center, participants begin to understand that snow stability and weather conditions should dictate terrain choices.

The next step, Level II, affords a more indepth look at many Level I topics—snowpack, terrain, rescue—and goes further by focusing on snow-stability analysis. Students spend time examining snow crystals under a hand lens, digging snow pits, and performing stability tests. More time is spent navigating through challenging avalanche terrain in the Tetons during the four-day course.

A relatively small, yet indispensable, number of winter enthusiasts undertake the Level III course, geared towards professionals—guides, ski patrollers, avalanche forecasters, or very experienced and focused recreationists. Level III courses are five-tosix days in length and cover route-finding in complex terrain, efficient stability analysis, and avalanche-forecasting exercises.

But even the experts will agree Sarah Carpenter, in the field that avalanche education and skills ductory course where participants can learn the development are never complete. “As with most basics of avalanche rescue, such as how to organ- backcountry ski locations, the Tetons have a mix ize a rescue and conduct a transceiver search of experienced travelers with avalanche knowlshould a party member get caught in an ava- edge and lots of people who don’t choose the lanche. Participants practice transceiver search smartest routes or employ safe travel procedures. methods, and probing and shoveling techniques Taking an avalanche course is important, but in the field. Basic route-finding, terrain assess- choosing more experienced and trustworthy partment, and safe-travel practices are also taught at ners and mentors may be even more important,” this level, where an emphasis on avalanche avoid- says avalanche educator Don Sharaf. ance balances the training of what to do if some“The Teton area can be challenging to a

McKoy photos, this page

Clearly, the nation’s most prized winter playground can turn deadly. As the backcountry draws more recreationists, the potential for mishaps increases. Skiers, snowboarders, trekkers, and snowmobilers would do well to prepare themselves for the unexpected as they venture into a not-always benign winter wonderland.

“It seems to me that after almost every snowfall event, folks are caught in avalanches,” says Doug Meyer of Teton County Search & Rescue (TCSAR). Meyer estimates that TCSAR responds to six-to-eight avalanche incidents a year. “The equipment that’s available for skiers, riders, and snowmobilers these days can take them into places where their knowledge and mountaineering skills can’t keep up with their equipment.

That’s what gets a lot of people into trouble.”

Meyer, who is in charge of the 39 year-round search and rescue volunteers, emphasizes the need to be ready for anything in the backcountry.

“It’s important for people to be prepared when they venture into the backcountry,” says Meyer.

“Backcountry travelers should have a transceiver, shovel, probe, as well as food and water, extra clothing, a headlamp, a first aid kit, and a lightweight tarp. They need to understand that it may be several hours or the next day when search and rescue can get to them if something goes wrong, depending on location, weather, and avalanche conditions.” Backcountry travelers should also carry a map, compass, and possibly a GPS. But these items do little good to the untrained. Map reading and navigation skills are essential backcountry skills, in both summer and winter, so education is the critical link here.

An avalanche course, once the realm of only hardcore backcountry skiers, has become essential for even weekend outdoor recreationists.

Conveniently, the oldest avalanche school in the country is located right here in Jackson. The American Avalanche Institute (AAI) was founded by local Rod Newcomb in 1974. Additionally, Exum Mountain Guides, Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, and Yostmark Backcountry Tours all offer avalanche courses during the winter. And their courses are well attended.

Those with limited time can gain at least some

In a not-always benign winter wonderland

Chris Peck (Phil skiing); Pat Comfort (portrait)

novice. Even after a basic avalanche course, terrain options in easily accessible areas like Teton Pass generally involve negotiating challenging terrain, often with serious consequences (for mistakes),” continues Sharaf.

Meyer agrees. Search-and-rescue volunteers are well trained and committed to helping. “What brings us all together is our desire to give back to the community that we all love,” he concludes. On average, members go through 300 hours of training per year, from weekly avalanche training in the winter, to wilderness medical training, cave rescue, high-angle rescue, swift-water rescue, navigation, and route-finding training. The local search and rescue team is a valuable resource, but self-sufficiency and competence are even more valuable for backcountry travelers.

Get educated, be prepared, be smart, and practice, practice, practice. If you should need outside help, “Dial 911 on your cell phone if you have reception. But make sure that your numberone focus is to put time into looking for your friends (for) at least an hour before you go for help,” says Meyer.

Pay attention. Check the daily avalanche bulletin. Choose your partners wisely. And donate to your local SAR. Regional avalanche courses start in early December and go through early March.

Sarah Carpenter developed a fascination and love for snow at a young age. She grew up skiing in New Mexico, chose her college because of its proximity to the mountains, and has been based in the Tetons for the last seven years.

Course Schedules

American Avalanche Institute www.avalancheclass.com Level I: Dec. 9-12, Dec. 18-21, Jan. 8-11, Feb. 5-8, Feb. 26-Mar. 1, Mar. 12-15; Level II: Jan. 2-5; Level III: Feb. 11-15

Phil “Fee” Tassinari September 29, 1956 — November 8, 2008

Whoever thought a penguin could ski Unless you saw it, you wouldn't believe The hardest working man on the hill?

No question about it, he was the real deal More free lunches than you could add Always happy and smiling...never mad Haircuts on the lift and a spoon in his pocket An accident on the hill and he was there like a rocket

Work hard, play hard, be happy and smile He did everything with that penguin style We all lost a friend, a huge heart he did have It is so hard not to be sad So grab a drink and lift it to the sky Give a toast to a friend...one hell of a guy Fee, it is so hard to say goodbye.

We will miss you!! — Jackson Hole Ski Patrol

WILD by NATURE G A L L E R Y

Jackson Hole Mountain Guides www.jhmg.com Level I: Dec. 12-4, Jan. 13-15, Jan. 30-Feb. 1, Feb. 13-15; Level II: Feb. 5-8

Yostmark Backcountry Tours Level I: Dec. 5-7, Jan. 16-18; Level II: Feb. 13-16

Exum Mountain Guides www.exumguides.com Level I: Jan. 22-25; Level II Feb. 19-22

Beacon Parks

Local beacon parks typically have 10 transceivers hard-wired into a control panel. These transceivers are buried in containers and remain buried for the season. One can practice searching for 1, 2, 3, or even 10 transceivers at a time, by turning on a given number of beacons at the control panel, locating each transceiver by a probe strike, but leaving them buried. There are two beacon basins in the Tetons: one below the East Ridge Chair at JHMR and one on Phillips Bench up the Phillips Canyon road. w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Wildlife & Landscape Photographs by Henry H. Holdsworth Limited Edition Photographs, Books, Note Cards 95 W. Deloney • Behind the Wort Hotel • Box 2673 • Jackson, WY 83001 • 733-8877 www.wildbynaturegallery.com 2 0 0 9 J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R

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“We are mechanized backcountry skiers. That’s how we feel about it in Alaska. We use airplanes, snowmobiles, snowcats, and helicopters to ski.”

—Theo Meiners

John Verdon

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w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Matt Haines (top); McKoy (bottom)

S

High Mountain Heli-Skiing

ince 1974, High Mountain Heli-Skiing (HMH) has been offering its guests the ultimate deep-powder helicopter-skiing experience in Jackson Hole—untracked snow in the backcountry within a safety cocoon provided by guides. Owner Jon Shick’s 21 winters as the company’s lead guide and avalanche forecaster suit him well as he steers High Mountain Heli-skiing into its 34th season.

Shick’s helicopters, state-of-the-art Bell 407s, convey skiers into some of the region’s finest forest and glades, where they rack up 12,000 to 15,000 vertical feet in a typical day. Terrain options include the Snake River and Palisades mountain ranges and portions of the Hoback, Teton, and Gros Ventre mountain ranges, places that transfix even the locals with their alpine grandeur.

Each HMH guide, trained in outdoor emergency care, CPR, and avalanche-hazard forecasting and mountain rescue, rounds out every group of five skiers. Because the terrain ranges from intermediate to expert, skiers and boarders should be at the advanced level. “If a skier can link turns down Rendezvous Bowl and the Hobacks,” said Shick, “they can ski anything we do.”

Jackson Hole heli-skiers won’t notice much difference this year, despite a recent court decision that, over a three-year period, scales back HMH’s skier days in the Palisades Wilderness Study Area, his most popular and successful terrain. Shick is working with the Forest Service to open new terrain to replace the skier-days he is gradually losing in the Palisades. But the going is slow due to the required environmental studies necessary to survive additional potential lawsuits by the current plaintiffs—the Greater Yellowstone Coalition, the Jackson Hole Conservation Alliance, the Sierra Club, and Earth Justice—all of which have offices in Jackson and are diligently monitoring the subject.

“I am cutting back my bookings,” he said of his business plan, “taking it one year at a time. When they cut us down to 65 skiers two years from now we’ll probably have to close the doors if I haven’t gotten any satisfaction out of the Forest Service by then.”

Over the last 30 years, HMH has lost most of its bread-and-butter terrain to Wilderness Area designation. The slopes on and around Cache Peak, perfect heli-ski terrain a short flight from downtown Jackson, were included in the Gros Ventre Wilderness in 1984 when Congress passed the Wyoming Wilderness Act (WWA). He lost his west-slope terrain near Grand Targhee when the Jedediah Smith Wilderness Area was formed under the same legislation. The Forest Service allowed HMH to continue skiing in the Palisades,

“They all have pyramid-shaped north faces and long slopes, some with 5,200-verticalfoot runs. In a week, my clients ski about 40 runs and 200,000 vertical.”

Theo Meiners and a client look at the vast potential of Clueland, a short flight from the lodge.

a mountain range the bill designated as a Wilderness Study Area, and increased his user days there as his business grew. The coalition of environmental groups sued in 2006 to revoke those permits.

The embattled Shick misses the 1970s. “Going into places for the first time, figuring it out and skiing it,” he recalled. “Those were the adventure days, the pioneering days. It was wide open.”

“I f you can ski the Hobacks, the Lower Faces, or Rendezvous Bowl, you can ski the Chugach and have a great time doing it,” said Alaska Rendezvous Heli Alaska Rendezvous Heli-Guides

Guides owner Theo Meiners.

Theo should know. A 31-year veteran of the Jackson Hole Ski School with 14 years of guiding in Alaska, he has strong ties to both places.

His heli-ski lodge on Thompson Pass, 50 miles from Valdez, Alaska, reflects an affinity for Jackson Hole’s Rendezvous Mountain. “I wanted ‘rendezvous’ part of my name,” Meiners recalled, “and it works because Alaska also has a fur trapper’s rendezvous in February when the sun comes back out.”

His ski season begins on March 12 with a full 12 hours of daylight illuminating the Chugach, and ends with the 17-hour days of early May. The absolute wildness and adventure of heli-skiing in Alaska is iconic, but also unique in a truly Alaskan way. “It’s really upside-down mountaineering,”

State-of-the-art Bell 407s, convey skiers into some of the region’s finest forest and glades, where they rack up 12,000 to 15,000 vertical feet in a typical day. Çharlotte Moats

Jess McMillan 2 0 0 9 J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R

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Lynsey Dyer

noted Meiners in a two-edged proclamation: the guides and clients always start at the top, and they use machines to get there. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We are mechanized backcountry skiers, but thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s how we feel about it in Alaska,â&#x20AC;? he explained. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Alaskans use airplanes, snowmobiles, snowcats, and helicopters to ski.â&#x20AC;?

As far as the helicopters go, they have never been more powerful. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We live in an incredible time for aeronautic development,â&#x20AC;? Meiners continued. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The helicopters we use are fantastic, and the pilotsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; skills are unbelievable, too. They open so much more of the range for us. We can nitpick all the details and do some really exciting skiing in a really short period of time.â&#x20AC;?

Perhaps, though, the key to success is his motel and restaurant / bar / liquor store. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Modern conveniencesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;hot water, comfortable rooms, great food, a secure baseâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all very important,â&#x20AC;? Theo emphasized. â&#x20AC;&#x153;People have to feel really comfortable so they can relax after the stress from being in the wilds.â&#x20AC;?

The motel has a massage area, a workout area, a laundromat, and eight large rooms with queen-size beds, private baths, and telephone/data lines. â&#x20AC;&#x153;People can sit in their rooms and go online with their computers or conve-

niently talk on the phone to friends back home.â&#x20AC;?

Or they can step out onto the porch and view their ski day. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Right out my door is the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;front nine,â&#x20AC;&#x2122; â&#x20AC;? he pointed out. â&#x20AC;&#x153;They all have pyramid-shaped north faces and long slopes, some with 5,200-vertical-foot runs. In a week, my clients ski about 40 runs and 200,000 vertical.â&#x20AC;?

And beyond that doorstep is a wide, wide world of Alaska skiing. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Our permit includes five mountain ranges, and we ski â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;em all,â&#x20AC;? he proudly pointed out.

Jackson Hole skiers love Alaska, but these days clients also come from places like Vail and Aspen, as well as skiers coming as groups. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nice when skiers are familiar with one another,â&#x20AC;? he said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;If you are happy with your group and used to each otherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pace, it really helps soften the required skill sets. You donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to be a daredevil to come up to Alaska.â&#x20AC;?

And the snow? â&#x20AC;&#x153;We get snowstorms like Florida gets hurricanes,â&#x20AC;? he said,

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J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R 2 0 0 9

McKoy

Angle Mountain is a short snowcat drive into the Bridger Teton National Forest, which receives an average annual snowfall of over 300 inches.

laughing. “The average snowfall at sea level is 350 inches, and on Thompson Pass is 600-to-700 inches, with 1,200 inches in some years.”

Clearly, folks comfortable skiing Rendezvous Bowl and the Hobacks should consider a vacation with Alaska Rendezvous Heli Guides and find out what all the hype is really about.

Grand Targhee SnowCat Adventures One of the hallmarks of the Grand Targhee experience is a SnowCat Adventure on Peaked Mountain.

Twelve skiers or snowboarders have a huge powder reserve of 1,000 acres awaiting for up to 20,000 vertical feet in a day. Follow the expert guides through expansive north-facing bowls, mellow, gladed cruisers, and steep treed pitches, with breathtaking views of the Tetons all around.

Ten new trails this year; average run: 2,000 vertical feet; longest run: 2,200 vertical feet; average number of runs per day: 10 to 12.

Riders should be at least intermediate level, able to link turns in all conditions and should be comfortable riding in trees and able to avoid natural obstacles.

Togwotee Mountain Lodge Snowcat Guides As lead guide for Jackson Hole’s first and only snowcat operation, Jamie Weeks can hardly believe his good fortune. “I’m very excited about what we have to offer,” he said of the terrain on Togwotee’s Angle Mountain.

“The views of Jackson Hole and the Teton Range while you are skiing are outstanding.”

Weeks should know a good thing when he sees it, having guided snowboarders and skiers for nine years at the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (JHMR) and eight years in Alaska with Valdez Heli Ski Guides (VHSG).

The big selling points for Weeks are the views, the serenity of this remote location, and being able to easily access all aspects and choose from 360 degrees of skiing. Skiing north, south, east, and west enables the guides to lead clients to the best snow despite any changes in weather conditions or the time of day.

“We encourage both skiers and snowboarders to come ride with us,” Weeks said. “I’m a ‘boarder and I know how to guide them, and I’ve also guided plenty of skiers.”

The terrain varies from super mellow to short, steep shots like JHMR’s Expert Chutes. Much of the 750 acres is similar to HMH terrain—1,600 vertical feet of wideopen bowls and faces, steeps, and trees—great for advanced intermediates. Short hiking tours are also available to get to places the cat can't.

Togwotee Mountain Lodge rests on Togwotee Pass, 48 miles from Jackson. From the lodge, Angle Mountain is a short snowcat drive into the Bridger Teton National Forest, which receives an average annual snowfall of over 300 inches. New ownership of Togwotee Lodge in 2008 will continue the commitment to excellence.

A full day of cat-skiing consists of six to ten runs, depending on the ability of the group, which may include up to 10 clients. Private trips, snowmobile/ski combos, and custom trips are also available, all led by highly trained guides who have advanced avalanche certifications.

— JH Skier w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Jackson’s ONLY snowcat ski/snowboard operation

800-543-2847 www.togwoteelodge.com info@togwoteelodge.com under permit BTNF

HIGH MOUNTAIN HELI - SKIING

Enjoy the pure powder experience.

Ski the high mountains where pristine bowls and forested glades go on forever.

Box 173, Teton Village, Wy 83025 • 307-733-3274 • Fax 307-733-3529 www.heliskijackson.com • email: heli-ski@wyoming.com

2 0 0 9 J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R

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Snowmobiling Story and photos by Bob Woodall

In most of the country, winter and snowstorms are greeted with dread and angst, but not here. After all, this is snow country! With so much of the white stuff carpeting Wyoming’s mountains each winter, learning to love it is a necessity. And a great way to love this plush white carpet is astride a snowmobile. So saddle up and head into the great white open.

N

orthwest Wyoming straddles the stunning continental divide and is blessed with some of the best snowmobile landscapes available in the world, a veritable winter playground for snowmachine enthusiasts.

Snowmachines provide quick access to even the deepest reaches of the winter backcountry. Within a few minutes you can be far from the highway and immersed in the Rocky Mountains’ winter beauty.

Can I ride a snowmobile?

Snowmachines are pretty stable items. If you can drive an automobile and you have an opposable thumb and forefinger, you should be able to ride down a groomed trail to, say, Old Faithful Geyser. You squeeze the throttle with your right thumb and the brake with your left hand. It may take a few miles to get the feel of the trail but most riders can master the basics quickly. Riding off-trail, though, will require a bit more experience. Off-trail snowmobiling, not allowed in national parks, is a skill-intensive sport.And just as driving a car down the road doesn’t qualify one to race in the Monte Carlo Grand Prix, steering a snowmobile along groomed trails is vastly different from

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Top: An explosion of powder rewards Jim Moulton as he bashes through a cornice. Above: The Continental Divide is a vast playground for “kids” like Cameron Garnick.

Snowmobile Tours of

with BEST Adventures Experience Winter in Yellowstone National Park

• Transportation to and from your lodging • Hot breakfast at our location • Hot lunch served in Yellowstone • New Cleaner 4-Stroke Machines • No experience necessary • Guided Tours

Photo by Connie Holdon

TOURS INCLUDE:

BEST ADVENTURES

TOGWOTEE

307-733-4845 •1-800-851-0827 Email: info@Best-Adventure.com

?

GEYSERS ? STEAK COOK-OUT ? ? WILDLIFE ? HOT SPRINGS ?

OFFERING TOURS TO THE FOLLOWING AREAS:

? Yellowstone ? Old Faithful ? Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone ? Granite Hot Springs ? Continental Divide Trail ? Togwotee

1/2 DAYL IA SPbEesC t value Hole

Airport drop off available after rental

in Jackso

n

Your Schedule, Your Pace • Transportation available from your lodging • Ride to mountain lodges for lunch • Ride Togwotee area trail systems • Located on the Continental Divide Snowmobile Trail • Clean 4 Stroke Snowmobiles

• Current Model Powder Snowmobiles; 600, 800 & 1000 RMKs M-6. M-8 & M-10 Arctic Cats • Double Machines Available • Clothing, Helmet and Boots Included

Jackson Hole, Wyoming Located at the G.T.P. RV Resort, Moran

1-800-563-6469 1-307-733-1980 www.yellowstonerv.com

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GRANITE HOT SPRINGS

All inclusive Guided & Self-Guided Tours Extended Overnight Packages Call for more information...

Breakfast, lunch and transportation to and from your lodging.

Let our expert guides show you the beauty of the Teton Mountains this winter.

1-800-633-1733 or 307-733-6850 www.jacksonholesnowmobile.com email: jhst@wyoming.com P.O. Box 11037 • 945 W. Broadway Jackson, WY 83002

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Snowmobiling the Togwotee Pass area provides spectacular vistas of the Tetons.

finessing it through woodlands and powder fields at breakneck speeds.

Guided or go it alone?

If you have never snowmobiled before, by all means go guided. All tour companies offer guided-trip packages. They usually provide transportation from your lodging and they all supply the warm clothes needed for a comfortable experience. Continental or hot breakfasts and hot lunches usually round out the package. The guides, of course, are trained in snowmobile and winter safety and have a handle on the area’s flora, fauna, and history.

Unguided rentals, though, are a great way to see the country at one’s own pace, except in Yellowstone, which is closed to all but commercially guided parties. But be sure to be prepared for severe winter conditions, and know where you are going.

Wyoming winters can be painfully brutal for This is true the unprepared. powder-busting, Just ask Olympic Gold cornice-bashing, Medalist zoom-across-aRulon Gardiner. After wide-open-fieldgetting sepaof-powder rated from his country. snowmobile party, he got disoriented and then bogged down his machine.

After spending a night out in below-zero temperatures, he lost a toe to frostbite. So never head into the backcountry alone.

Where to go?

There are several major snowmobile destinations in northwest Wyoming, each with its own special features.

Some are snowmobile playgrounds while others are primarily for viewing the natural wonders.

Togwotee Pass, Granite Hot Springs, Green River Valley,and the Greys River Valley are the playgrounds, while Yellowstone and Gros Ventre areas are for observing wildlife and the natural world.

Yellowstone National Park Tops on many travelers’ lists is Yellowstone National Park. Snowmobiling through the park is a great way to experience this wonderland. The steam from geysers and hot springs is accentuated by the cold, crisp air.

Herds of bison and elk graze the geyser basins, where the earth’s heat keeps the snow melted away from the summer grasses. If you’ve never been to Yellowstone, then a visit should be on your must-do list.

But make no mistake,Yellowstone is not a snowmobile playground! The machine is merely personal transportation through the scenic and natural wonders of the park. Travel is restricted to the groomed roadways. All off-road travel is prohibited and the speed limit is enforced at 35 mph from West Yellowstone to Old Faithful and at 45 mph on all other park roads. Snowmobiles actually offer less access than do automobiles in the summer. Contrary to some misperceptions, snowmobiles and riders cannot wander wherever they want in the park.All this info will be stressed by your guides,though, as private citizens are no longer allowed to snowmobile

Family Restaurant

“Jackson’s Local Favorite” A place where things are still the same 1 block south of Town Square

307-733-2639

Free Wireless Internet Available 40 W. Pearl St. • corner of Cache & Pearl Jackson, Wyoming

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S TEAKS ~ S EAFOOD ~ C HICKEN ~ C OMBINATION P LATES G REAT S OUP & S ALAD B AR O PEN 7AM B REAKFAST B UFFET L UNCH & D INNER A SK US ABOUT OUR B EER & W INE S ELECTION

Granite Hot Springs

in the park, even if they have the required four-stroke machines.

Granite Hot Springs While Yellowstone abounds with hot springs,the opportunity to take a plunge in one of them is not an option. Not only are most too hot, but swimming in them is illegal.So if you crave a dip in a 100-degree pool in the great outdoors, then head to Granite Hot Springs. The natural hot spring-fed pool, set amidst the imposing Gros Ventre mountains,is just part of a day trip up Granite Creek. Unlike in Yellowstone park, snowmobilers can go off trail and romp in the powder fields that the area offers. This would be a good break-in for those who want to kick it up a notch on the snowmobile learning curve.

Union Pass & Green River Valley Southeast of Togwotee Pass is the sprawling Union Pass and the Upper Green River Valley region. The Continental Divide Snowmobile Trail (CDST) accesses this area from both the Pinedale and Dubois sides of the Wind River Range.The Pinedale/Green River side of the mountains has a trail system of over 135 miles,while the Dubois side has over 150 miles of trails through some of the most scenic country in the West. Breathtaking tracts of open country,with mountains in view everywhere and snow depths reaching 10 feet, just beg to be explored.

Togwotee Pass If you want to really boot it up a notch, head to the Togwotee Pass area, where thousands of square miles of terrain await exploring. This is true powderbusting, cornice-bashing, zoom-across-a-wide-openfield-of-powder country. But there’s more to world-class snowmobiling than wide-open terrain. Amid the Gros Ventre, Absaroka, Wyoming, and Wind River mountain ranges, the scenery is second to none. The visibility on clear days can reach upwards of 150 miles. The Breccia Cliffs and the Pinnacle Buttes tower over this playground and the Tetons loom majestically in the distance.

Snaking its way through the Togwotee Pass area is the CDST. A 350-mile groomed trail, it connects Lan-

Enjoy natural wonders while snowmobiling in the nation’s 1st national park.

GRANITE HOT SPRINGS

Swim in the Granite Hot Springs 104 degree pool!

TOGWOTEE PASS

At 10,00 feet this tour’s powder snow is unmatched.

GROS VENTRE ADVENTURE

View more wildlife & beautiful scenery than on any other High Country tour.

GREYS RIVER

Unforgettable scenery and exciting rides await you at the base of these giant mountains.

Our trips can be specially tailored to suit families and groups. We can combine any or all of the areas we represent.

OVERNIGHT SNOWMOBILE ADVENTURE

ALL TRIPS INCLUDE: Transportation to & from lodging,snowmobile gear, breakfast and lunch.

JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING

800-524-0130 307-733-5017 ALL TRIPS INCLUDE Book Online Transportation to & from lodges, snowmobile suit, helmet, boots & gloves.

Call for reservations. www.hcsnowmobile.com

Rocky O’Neal rips through powder fields along the Continental Divide Snowmobile Trail.

mountains, great trail riding, and unlimited backcountry, the ultimate riding and powder hunting grounds.

Overnight and Multi-day Trips If this menu of options sounds like too much to digest in one day, consider a multi-day excursion. String together several of these destinations with overnight stays in remote, snow-bound lodges. Start at one end of the trail and emerge at the other, never having to backtrack. Consider a three-night excursion through Yellowstone, staying at a different lodge each night.

So whatever you may be seeking in a snowmobile experience, the palette of opportunity is broad. Don’t be afraid of the machine: just jump on and ride the magic carpet of the great white open. w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

RO

Y MOUNT K A C

SNOWMOBILE SNOWMOBIL TOURS T0URS AVAILABLE: • Granite Hot Springs • Continental Divide • Yellowstone – travel by snowmobile or snowcoach • Gros Ventre • Togwotee • Greys River

WE PROVIDE:

• Transportation to and from your Jackson Hole lodging • Breakfast & lunch • Snowmobile Gear • Current model snowmobiles with hand warmers • 4 stroke snowmobiles

733-2237 1-800-647-2561 BOOK ONLINE www.snowmobiletours.net • email: tours@snowmobiletours.net

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Greys River Valley South of Jackson, near the mouth of the Snake River Canyon, lies the Greys River Valley, one of the locals’ favorite spots. This playground serves up everything a snowmobiler could want: towering

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK

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Gros Ventre River Wildlife viewing is high on many visitors’ to-do lists.

And a trip up the Gros Ventre Valley offers riders just that – and then some. Starting just above the Gros Ventre Slide, the trail closely follows the summer road.

Since this is critical winter game habitat, travel is mostly restricted to the roadway. Willow bottom lands are prime moose habitat and bighorn sheep inhabit the cliffs to the north of the trail. Twenty miles up the Gros Ventre is an elk feeding ground. In the past few years these wintering elk have attracted the attention of recently re-introduced wolves, so wolf sightings have become a distinct possibility.

Beyond the elk feeding grounds the terrain opens up and affords some off-trail riding. But please respect the wildlife closure areas. Disturbing wildlife causes stress, and that stress can cause the unnecessary death of an animal.

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IN

der,Wyoming, to Pinedale, Jackson Hole, (machines must be trailered through Grand Teton National Park),and West Yellowstone. This sparkling chain strung among the mountains is decorated with many jewels along its length.

A vast network of groomed side trails connects a patchwork of open meadows.

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SNOWMOBILE TOURS FEATURING TRIPS TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK & TOGWOTEE PASS

ALSO GRANITE HOT SPRINGS, GROS VENTRE & GREYS RIVER • OFFERING UNGUIDED RENTALS

TOGWOTEE MOUNTAIN LODGE 307-543-2847 800-543-2847

GUIDED & UNGUIDED TOURS

Hwy 26-287 Moran, WY 2 convenient Jackson locations to better serve you under permit BTNF an equal opportunity service provider

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What a rush it is, leaning and ducking, kicking and running on the hills behind the dogs, one of the pack!

Sled Dogs Story: Libby Riddles Photos: Bob Woodall

I

grew up skiing, skating, and playing in the snow, so I also enjoy being outside in the winter. And I love animals. This would partly explain why I’ve lived in Alaska for 30-some years, and have logged thousands of miles on a sled pulled by the wildest, coolest dogs on the planet, Alaskan huskies.

These 40- to 60-pound dogs can outrun, out-eat, and outlive most other breeds of dogs.

The northern Natives invented dog sledding, an ingenious style of travel perfect for snow country. Huskies are one of the oldest breeds, and are almost undoubtedly descended from wolves.

Their independence can make them as difficult to train as cats, but they also display the special loyalty and lovability

Taking in Wyoming’s winter wonderland at the speed of dog gives mushers and huskies alike a warm and fuzzy experience. Groomed trails provide easy access for sleds to travel deep into the mountains.

of a dog. It’s the muscle that sometimes gets them into trouble. Don’t they know that a dog nose imploding into a human lip is going to hurt a bit?

Many of these beautiful northern dogs still retain their wolfish markings, even if we have bred them to be smaller and have shorter fur. The blue eyes or mixed blue and brown eyes are famous traits of the husky, although collies and a few other breeds exhibit this coloration as well. Huskies can sometimes be good pets, but be prepared for a dog that can’t be trusted running loose: running away from home is a husky’s favorite hobby! They also sometimes enjoy eating small animals and fighting with other dogs. So if you can accept their wildness and keep them out of trouble, they can be great companions.

Modern-day huskies may be purebreds, but are more likely mixed breed

“Alaskan” huskies. Strains of hunting hound, pointer, saluki, or others may color the bloodlines of the dogs traditionally from the native villages. These dogs can run a hundred miles a day in the big races like the Iditarod and Yukon Quest. And when the urge

The musher has to know all the quirks of each dog, and has to teach them all to get along together while at the same time getting them in shape. strikes them, they throw back their muzzles and sing to the moon like their ancestors, an eerie northern song.

The musher has to know all the quirks of each dog, and has to teach them all to get along together while at the same time getting them in shape. Learning how to care for these high-powered canine athletes is an art. When the team gets to the point of being well trained and cooperating smoothly with the musher, it is an unbelievably satisfying way to travel.

The speed and power of the dogs is a surprise

to some; a well-trained team can really cover some ground. It is almost soundless travel, not much more noise than a wolf pack on the run. A little clinking from dog-collar rings and tags, the creak of the sled, and the whooshing of the runners gliding over the snow are the sole sounds accompanying the musher. Only in Hollywood do sled dogs bark on the run. And the musher speaks only when needed, commanding with a soft “gee” or “haw.” My dogs don’t mind if I also sing a bit, as long as I don’t get too rowdy. A few ears will flick back, and I know it’s time to behave.

It’s true that the musher often gets to stand on the sled runners as the dogs trot down the trail. But if you think this means just standing still, guess again. The musher has to be constantly watching the trail ahead and adjusting her balance accordingly. A miscalculation may throw her over the handle bar if she’s not paying attention. What a rush it is, leaning and ducking, kicking and running on the hills behind the dogs, one of the pack!

And there’s magic in the stories left tracked into the frozen surface of the snow, tales of the few stealthy creatures who inhabit the wintertime. Otter slides, wolf tracks four times the size of my biggest dog.

What are they hunting here? The dogs glide quietly over the snow, making their own tracks, fitting gracefully into the still wilderness. Moose tracks will put us on the alert; a moose in a bad mood can be lethal to sled dogs.

Winter’s short days are conducive to monster sunrises and sunsets. Add golden orange light to drop-dead beautiful wild country, the symmetry of the dogs and their shadows as they run, and the artful aspect of this ancient sport is hard to miss.

Continued next page

JACKSON HOLE IDITAROD SLED DOG TOURS Hosted by Jackson Hole’s own 8-Time Veteran Iditarod Musher, Frank Teasley A recipient of Leonhard Seppala Humanitarian Award • Learn Mushing First Hand Drive your own sled team!

• Jackson based tours in the Bridger-Teton National Forest • Meals, transportation, supplemental clothing provided • Half-Day and Full-Day Tours, Reservation Required • Serving the immediate and surrounding area • Enjoy a soak in a natural 105° hot springs on our famous Granite Creek Canyon tour For Reservations or Information

Call: 307-733-7388

JACKSON HOLE IDITAROD SLED DOG TOURS P.O. Box 1940, Jackson Hole, Wy 83001 www.jhsleddog.com

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Photos by Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy/Focus Productions, Inc.

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p

Stage Stop Sled Dog Race

The Best Brands • Selection • Gear

The ceremonial start of the IPSSSDR, held on the Jackson Town Square, is an exciting part of the Jackson Hole Winter Carnival, which also includes music, food booths, and fireworks.

The 14th annual International Pedigree Stage Stop Sled Dog Race (IPSSSDR) begins in Jackson on January 30, 2009 and ends in Park City, Utah, on February 7. The 2009 Jackson race sendoff takes place at the Jackson Hole Winter Carnival complete with a bonfire, fireworks show, music and food booths, before heading on to stages in Lander, Pinedale, Big Piney/Marbleton, Alpine, Kemmerer/Diamondville, Evanston/Lyman, and the big finish in Park City.

Race Director Frank Teasley anticipates another exciting race. “From the applications I’ve received, it looks as if we’ll be hosting some of the world’s best mushers once again,” he said.

Scheduled between Europe’s La Grande Odyssée and Alaska’s Iditarod, the IPSSSDR is a marquee event on the professional mushing circuit and the largest sled dog race in the lower 48 states.

Many top mushers like to compete in all three events.

With its unique “stage-stop” format, the race stops in a different community each night.

Wyoming’s small towns host festivities for mushers and spectators that include banquets, barbeques, pancake feeds, snowshoe softball, dog parades, and ice sculpture demonstrations.

— wyomingstagestop.org

Miami • Ft. Lauderdale • Palm Beach Delray Beach • Juno Beach • Vero Beach Orlando • Tampa • Naples • Atlanta Columbia • Richmond • Montpelier Order by phone 1-800-749-3203

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Shop anytime at

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It is all so beautiful – and almost impossible to capture on film. But still I try.

When dog mushing started, it was a Native thing. But then the explorers and gold seekers took up the habit. Today there are Native mushers still involved with dog mushing, but the sport has truly gone global. Mushers can be found not only in Alaska, Canada, and Greenland, but also in New Zealand, Scotland, Scandinavia, the Rockies, even in South Africa. In cool climates without reliable snow, mushers train and race “dryland” style by using wheeled rigs such as light-weight titanium trikes, dog scooters, and bicycles. Or they simply run behind the sled dog, a method called cani-crossing. People with just one or two athletic dogs can be mushers, too. A lot of mushers run pointers or pointers crossed with huskies. These types of dogs could never sleep a night out on the snow, but can they ever burn up a trail, even if they don’t look like “sled dogs!”

There is a small number of professional lifelong mushers today, mushers like 2007 champion Lance Mackey, four-time champion Jeff King, cancer survivor Deedee Jonrowe, the “Guy From Montana” (Doug Swingly), and Jackson Hole’s Frank Teasley, to name a few.

Other mushers mostly do tours with their dogs, or a combination of racing and giving tours, a more reliable way to support a sled-dog habit than racing, and a perfect solution for dogs that may not be fast enough for a racing team.

Even the littlest musher in the littlest town is part of the mushing family. We have fun get-togethers and also support each other during the hard times. Too often funerals and memorials are what bring us together, like the one in August ‘06 for Susan Butcher, the four-time Iditarod Champion who had succumbed to leukemia, leaving behind two small children and husband David Monson.

We come from many different walks of life, but share our love for the peaceful moments out on the wild trails – and for winter. But it’s mostly the dogs we love, these beautiful, exuberant spirits, who teach us so much and share their love, their enthusiasm for a job well done, and a life well lived.

Libby Riddles, the first woman to win the Iditarod Sled Dog Race, is a lecturer and author of three books, Race Across Alaska, Storm Run, and Danger: the Dog Yard Cat. She lives in Homer, Alaska, and has a kennel of 40 Alaskan Huskies.

Bob Woodall

LODGING❄SPAS❄ APRÉS SKI❄DINING

JACKSON

A C C O M M O D AT I O N S , LO D G I N G & S PAS GRAND TARGHEE

GRAND TARGHEE Ski-in-ski-out access from 96 lodging rooms, deluxe hotel & condo units. email: Full service spa. 1-800-TARGHEE info@grandtarghee.com PG 48 GRAND TARGHEE SPA Outdoor pool, Jacuzzi, steam, sports massage, mud wraps. 1-800TARGHEE PG 48

GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK DORNAN’S SPUR RANCH CABINS 1 & 2 bedroom log cabins with full kitchen & living room.

Located on the Snake River in Grand Teton National Park at Moose, with breathtaking views of the Tetons. 307-733-2522 PG 16

JACKSON ANTLER INN Downtown Jackson. 100 units, hot tub, some fireplaces & suites, meeting room, fitness room. Ski & snowmobile packages available & ski shuttle. 43 W Pearl. 307-733-2535 or 1-800522-2406 PG 44 & 82 COWBOY VILLAGE RESORT In the heart of Jackson Hole, offers 82 individual log cabins accommodating groups of 2–6 people. Property amenities include kitchens in all cabins and two hot tubs. Ski & snowmobile packages available & ski shuttle.120 South Flat Creek Drive. 307-733-3121or 800-962-4988 PG 44 & 82 ELK COUNTRY INN 88 units with 25 new log cabins. Family units with lofts. Hot tub & guest laundry. Ski & snowmobile packages available & ski shuttle. 480 W Pearl. 733-2364 or 800-4-TETONS PG 44 & 82 49ER INN AND SUITES Downtown Jackson. 142 units, 30 fireplace suites. indoor & outdoor hot tubs—fitness room—meeting facilities—continental breakfast. Ski & snowmobile packages available & ski shuttle. 330 W Pearl. 307-733-7550 or 1-800-4512980 PG 44 & 82 HOMEWOOD SUITES-HILTON All-suite hotel located just off the Town Square, featuring kitchens, gas fireplace, complimentary Suite Start Breakfast, hi-speed internet & indoor pool / hot tub & fitness room, ski shuttle. 260 N. Millward, Jackson 307-739-0808 PG 82 INN ON THE CREEK, 3 blocks from Jackson Town Square & open year round. We offer sumptuously decorated rooms. A homemade signature breakfast is served each morning at the Inn’s beautiful common table. 295 N Millward, Jackson, 307-739-1565 www.innonthecreek.com PG 82 PAINTED BUFFALO INN Discover why the West is wild. 3 blocks from the Jackson Town Square. Swimming pool, sauna and shuttle stop are just a few of the conveniences we offer our guests.

400 W Broadway, www.paintedbuffaloinn.com 800-288-3866 / 307-733-4340 PG 82 SNOW KING RESORT Full service hotel, condominiums, restaurant, room service cocktail lounge, heated pool, whirlpools, fitness room, complimentary airport/ski area transportation, ski-in/ski-out. 733-5200 PG 45 & 82

TETON VILLAGE & VILLAGE ROAD ALPENHOF LODGE European style lodging & dining at the base of JHMR. Hot tub, pool, sauna, massage therapy, all in a cozy lodge setting with friendly professional staff. 307-733-3242 PG 82 THE HOSTEL A friendly lodge, come and stay with us. Enjoy a comfortable, pleasant & inexpensive stay at the base of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. 1 or 2 persons $109, 3 or 4 Persons $119. www.thehostel.us, 307-733-3415 PG 65 JACKSON HOLE RESORT LODGING Conveniently located next to the Teton Village Market, Ski-in/ski-out lodging & accommodation for all seasons. Affordable condos to luxury vacation homes, for family getaways and reunions. 800-443-8613, 307-733-3990 PG 29 & 82 SNAKE RIVER LODGE & SPA, A RockResort, is Jackson’s first AAA Four Diamond Slopeside Lodge.

Indulge in the 17,000 sq.ft.

Avanyu Spa with an indoor/outdoor swimming pool. Enjoy entertainment in the Fireside Lounge & dining in the GameFish Restaurant. Come celebrate the opening of the New Tram this ski season. 307-732-6000 PG 4 & 82 TETON CLUB Ski-in, Ski-out, trailside condo located at the base of the JH Mt Resort. 2 & 3 bedroom exquisitely furnished condominiums and 5-star service make this property the only place to stay while in Jackson Hole. 866-352-9777 PG 29 TETON MOUNTAIN LODGE & SPA Luxury full service resort hotel located slope side at Jackson Hole, AAA 4-diamond property.

Cascade Restaurant, bar on-site, room service, full service Solitude Spa, indoor-outdoor pools, hot tubs, named “Hot Spa 2008” by Conde Nast Traveler. 307-734-7111 PG 3 & 82

snowcoach to Yellowstone, lodging, meals. Transportation available. 800-661-4928 PG 16

APRÉS SKI, BREW PUBS, LOUNGES GRAND TARGHEE THE TRAP BAR & GRILLE Lunch, apres ski snacks, light dinner.

Cocktails, micro-brew beers, wine, apres ski special. Live entertainment and special sports events. 1-800-TARGHEE PG 48

GRAND TETON PARK DORNAN’S PIZZA & PASTA Enjoy great food & the best view of the Tetons. Full-service bar, open for lunch. M-F 11:30-3; Sat/Sun 11:30-5; Bar 10-6. 733-2415 ext 204. PG 16

JACKSON CADILLAC GRILLE LOUNGE “The Spot” for happy hour in Jackson Hole. Happening nightly from 5pm to 7pm. 2 for 1 draft beer and all mixed drinks. Dinner or Billy’s Burger are also available in the bar while you are enjoying happy hour. 307-733-3279.

On the town square next to the Cowboy Bar. PG 87 43 NORTH Slope-side tavern located at the Base of Snow King Mountain. Come enjoy aged steaks, wild game, and fine seafood.

Live music. Fine selections of domestic and imported beer. 307733-0043 / 645 S. Cache PG 45 THE LOUNGE At Snow King Resort is a non-smoking venue where you can enjoy premium martinis, cocktails & rotating drafts on tap, nightly 2 pm to close. Great eats, flat screen TV & live music. 733-5200 PG 45 SNAKE RIVER BREWERY The Great American Beer Festival’s Small Brewery of The Year, 2000 & 2001. Serving tasty brews, delicious pizzas, pastas & sandwiches. Free WiFi. From 11:30 am to Midnight, 7 days a week. 739-2337 PG 43

TETON VILLAGE & VILLAGE ROAD CAFÉ 6311 In the Bridger Center at the base of the Bridger Gondola. Offering hot hoagies, hot bagel sandwiches and a variety of domestic and imported microbrews.PG 29 CASCADE GRILL HOUSE & SPIRITS Located slope-side at the Teton Mountain Lodge & Spa. Featuring daily Aprés Ski specials on microbrews, cocktails and signature appetizers. 732-6932 PG 3 NICK WILSON'S COWBOY CAFE Located next to the Tram.

Breakfast, Smokehouse style lunch, daily specials, burgers, chili, snacks and more. Vibrant Apres Ski Happy Hour 3-6pm with food and drink specials. PG 29 VILLAGE CAFE Next to the JH Tram dock. Breakfast, lunch & Aprés Ski. Espresso, baked goods, wraps, sandwiches & the best pizza.

7am-10pm. Local's aprés ski spot with full bar. 732-CAFE PG 37 WESTSIDE WINE & SPIRITS Offering a wide selection of the finest wines, liquors & beers from around the world. At The Aspens, Teton Village Road. 307-733-5038 PG 19

DINING – RESTAURANTS – CAFÉS GRAND TARGHEE– TETON VALLEY, IDAHO

GRAND TETON – TOGWOTEE PASS

GRAND TARGHEE RESORT 5 restaurants serving a complete variety of food – gourmet dinners to snacks. Breakfast, lunch, dinner & dinner sleigh rides. Fare includes: Pastries, espressos, sandwiches, salads, burgers, pizza, steaks, Mexican & Italian, blackened foods. PG 48 TARGHEE PIZZERIA is a great place for kids 1-100. Arcade games, daily & creative dinner buffets during peak periods. 1-800TARGHEE PG 48 THE TRAP BAR & GRILLE Lunch, apres ski snacks, light dinner.

Cocktails, micro-brew beers, wine, apres ski special. Live entertainment and special sports events. 1-800-TARGHEE PG 48 VICTOR EMPORIUM Sporting goods & Old Fashioned soda fountain.

Home of the World Famous Huckleberry Milkshake, downtown Victor. 208-787-2221. PG 51

TOGWOTEE MOUNTAIN LODGE On the CD Snowmobile Trail, full service lodge, 54 modern cabins, restaurant, lounge, hot tubs, transportation, snowmobile rental, clothing, guides. 307-5432847, info@togwoteelodge.com PG 71, 75 & 82 TRIANGLE C RANCH Complete winter recreation packages, “The Old West In Winter”–dog sled trips, snowmobile excursions,

DORNAN’S PIZZA & PASTA Specialty pizzas, calzones, salads, pastas, sandwiches. Enjoy great food & the best view of the Tetons. Full-service bar, open for lunch. M-F 11:30-3; Sat/Sun 11:30-5; Bar 10-6. 733-2415 ext 204. PG 16

PINEDALE, WYOMING THE LODGE AT PINEDALE Located in the center of Pinedale, 43 rooms, deluxe continental breakfast, indoor pool and jacuzzi, complimentary high-speed internet, refrigerator & microwave in every room. www.lodgeatpinedale.com. 866-995-6343 PG 52 & 82

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GRAND TETON PARK

THE ATRIUM Casual fare located in Snow King Resort. Open daily serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Kid friendly, groups welcome. Breakfast buffet, specializing in Holiday Brunch, full cocktail service.

307-733-5200 PG 45 BILLY’S GIANT HAMBURGERS Jackson’s best, biggest & juiciest burgers. All drinks & plenty of beer. Take-out too. Opens at 11:30. Next to the Cadillac Grille. On the Town Square. 733-3279 PG 87 THE BUNNERY Best breakfast in town, served all day. Fresh baked pastries & we proudly brew Starbucks Coffee. On North Cache, 1 block north of the town square. 734-0075. PG 19 CADILLAC GRILLE Atmosphere, food, service & price make this a Jackson Hole favorite. Excellent steaks, game, seafood & pasta. Fabulous wine list.

Local microbrews & your favorite cocktail. On the Town Square. 733-3279 PG 87 CAFE PONZA ITALIAN RISTORANTE & PIZZERIA Simple–Fresh–Italian Antipasti, pasta, seafood, steak, great wines, napolitean pizza, slices, calzones, lasagna, sandwiches. Delivery & take-out ‘till late.

Pink Garter Plaza, 1/2 block off the Jackson Town Square,50 W Broadway, 734-2720 PG 41 THE GUN BARREL STEAK AND GAME Mesquite-grilled steaks, game & other New West selections, all served in our authentic lodge. Extensive collections of scotch, bourbon, draft beer, & extensive wine selection. 733-3287 PG 2 43 NORTH Slope-side tavern located at the Base of Snow King Mountain. Come enjoy aged steaks, wild game, and fine seafood.

Live music. Fine selections of domestic and imported beer. 307733-0043 / 645 S. Cache PG 45 JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo: jerky, salami, smoked roast, steaks & burger. Elk: steaks, burger & jerky. Gift packs, smoked trout & more! Free Samples. 100% natural or certified organic. We ship. South end of Jackson, in Smith’s Plaza & Downtown in Gasligth Alley. 733-4159/800-543-6328 PG 87 McDONALD’S OF JACKSON HOLE Where quality, service, cleanliness & value are a tradition. Featuring McDonald’s freshly prepared breakfasts & regular menu favorites. Wi-Fi available for your convenience.

5:30am–midnight. 1110 West Broadway at highway 22. PG 41 MOUNTAIN HIGH PIZZA PIE, also subs, salads, calzones.

Traditional, whole wheat, or deep dish crusts. fresh veggie toppings. 11 am to 10 pm. On Broadway across from the Wort Hotel.

WE DELIVER. 733-3646 PG 37 SNAKE RIVER BREWERY & RESTAURANT The Great American Beer Festival’s Small Brewery of The Year, 2000 & 2001. Serving tasty brews, delicious pizzas, pastas & sandwiches. Free WiFi. From 11:30 am to Midnight, 7 days a week. 739-2337 PG 43 SWEETWATER RESTAURANT Local's’ favorite since 1976. Lunch & dinner in a log cabin. Homemade soups, salads, sandwiches, lamb, steaks, full bar, deadly desserts & extensive wine list. Corner King and Pearl. 733-3553 PG 43 TETON STEAKHOUSE Breakfast buffet, lunch & dinner. Steaks, salad bar, chicken, seafood. A local favorite! Corner of Pearl & Cache across from Antler Inn. A place where things are still the same. 733-2639 PG 74

JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT CASCADE GRILL HOUSE & SPIRITS Serving breakfast, lunch Aprés Ski, & dinner. Featuring New Western Cuisine. Located slope-side at the Teton Mountain Lodge. 732-6932 PG 3 GAMEFISH RESTAURANT in the Snake River Lodge & Spa, a RockResort, is Jackson’s first AAA Four Diamond Slopeside Lodge.

Breakfast (with buffet), lunch & dinner. 307-732-6000 PG 4 NICK WILSON’S Cowboy Cafe in the Tram building, daily specials, sandwiches, burgers, chili, snacks & beer, wine & liquor. Breakfastlunch & aprés ski, 7:30am-6pm daily, happy hour 3-6pm. PG 29 VILLAGE CAFE Next to the JH Tram dock. Breakfast, lunch & Aprés Ski. Espresso, baked goods, wraps, sandwiches & the best pizza.

7am-10pm. Local's aprés ski spot with full bar. 732-CAFE PG 37

ON THE MOUNTAIN AT THE JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT BEAR FLATS SNACK SHACK Located at the base of Sublette lift, quick stop for lunch or snacks with on-the-go wraps. PG 29 BRIDGER RESTAURANT-MARKET PLACE AT 9095’ Individual serving stations, gourmet food, quick service. Seating for 150 & an attached south-facing deck. Best views in the valley. PG 31 CASPER RESTAURANT Cozy mid-mountain skiers/boarders retreat. Specialty burgers, burritos, a warm up station serving hot drinks with a kick, and a new Bloody Mary Bar. PG 29 CAFE 6311 Base of the Bridger Gondola, serving hot bagel sandwiches, fresh salads, Deli Sandwiches, espresso and coffee. PG 29 CORBET'S CABIN Top-of-the-World waffles at the top of the tram on Rendezvous Mountain, quick snacks, hot drinks with unlimited views that are on the house. PG 29 COULOIR RESTAURANT FINE dining at 9,095 ft. Step off the Gondola and walk into a contemporary & hip restaurant.

Exceptional hospitality, delectable American cuisine with Rocky Mountain roots. Reservations recommended. 307-739-2675 PG 31 HEADWALL PIZZA AND DELI Casual hangout for skiers and snowboarders, serving breakfast and lunch. Gourmet pizza, sandwiches and hot soups ready to boost your energy. PG 31 RENDEZVOUS RESTAURANT AT 9,095 FT. Action stations, gourmet food, & quick service. Seating for 150 & an attached south facing deck with the best views in the valley. PG 31

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SPORTS SHOPS❄APPAREL ❄GIFTS❄ JEWELRY❄A R T

ARMY. 80 Center Street, 307-733-5599, east side of town square.

PG 15 JC JEWELERS Jeter Case specializes in custom jewelry using platinum or gold and the finest in gem-quality stones. JC Jewelers also carries handcrafted Teton design, Western charms and elk ivory jewelry, in the log cabin just off Town Square, 132 N Cache. jcjewelers.com, 733-5933 or 800-358-5715 PG 3

MEDICAL SERVICES ST JOHN’S TETON VILLAGE CLINIC 739-7346 ST JOHN’S HOSPITAL 733-3636

MUSIC NOTEWORTHY MUSIC AGENCY Provides entertainment for all types of occasions. Call Mike Calabrese, 307-733-5459 pg 37

PHOTOGRAPHY DD CAMERA CORRAL Jackson’s oldest full-service camera store.

Binoculars, digital & film cameras, including Nikon, Canon, Leica.

Friendly & knowledgeable staff. 2-hour film & digital processing. 60 So. Cache, across from Eddie Bauer. 307-733-3831 PG 11, 85 & 86

FOCUS PRODUCTIONS INC. Products include the Jackson Hole Skier, JH Dining Guide, Mountain Country Magazine & ski posters.

Commercial photography, stock photo file & editorial assignment.

307-733-6995. www.focusproductions.com

GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK DORNAN’S GIFT SHOP Rental & sales of crosscountry skis, snow shoes. 733-2415, ext 301 In the Moose Village, Grand Teton National Park.

PG 16

APPAREL & SPORTS SHOPS GRAND TARGHEE – TETON VALLEY, IDAHO GRAND TARGHEE SPORTS & RENTAL SHOPS carry apparel, downhill & Nordic skis, snowboards, and accessories for adults and children. 1-800-TARGHEE, rentals—307-353-2300 PG 48 PEAKED SPORTS Alpine, Tele, AT, XC and Skate skis plus Snowboards. Personal, friendly, expert service. Backcountry info.

Sales, rentals, demos. Overnight tunes and repairs. 208-354-2354, www.peakedsports.com. PG 51 YOSTMARK MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT A full-service backcountry & Nordic specialty shop. We offer guided ski tours and provide a full line of rentals to insure the best tools and information for a quality outdoor experience. Downtown Driggs. 208-354-2828. PG 51 VICTOR EMPORIUM Sporting goods & Old Fashioned soda fountain.

Large selection of outdoor gear, sunglasses, hats, shoes, gifts, t-shirts & jewelry. Merrell, Cloudveil, Carhartt, SmartWool, Smith, Sportif, Dansko, Native Eyewear, Maui Jim. Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221.

PG 51

JACKSON–TETON VILLAGE–WILSON CLOUDVEIL MOUNTAIN WORKS Our Flagship store features the full range of our innovative outdoor apparel, all designed & tested in our hometown of Jackson. From versatile soft shells to authentic casual styles. 120 W Pearl, www.cloudveil.com 739-3930 PG 23 HOBACK SPORTS Featuring the latest Wintersteiger tuning machines. Overnight repairs, full ski & snowboard rental shop, retail sales of major brands, specializing in expert boot-fitting.

Located in Jackson at 520 W. Broadway. 733-5335 PG 4 HOLE IN THE WALL SNOWBOARD SHOP Teton Village's original Snowboard Shop. Boards and Demos from Burton, Option, Nidecker, & Lib Tech. Technical outerwear from Arc’teryx, Burton, 686, Roxy and more, upstairs in the Bridger Center at the base of the gondola. 307-739-2689. PG 29 JACK DENNIS OUTDOOR SHOP The finest outerwear & hard goods for the whole family. Complete rental department, performance demos, overnight repair. Located in Teton Village 7336838 & on the town square 733-3270 PG 33 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS THE mountain ski shop. We stock Marmot, Mountain Hardwear, Spyder, Eider, Fischer, Rossignol, K2, Salomon, Dynastar, and more. Full service mountainside rental shop & experienced repair, tuning & boot-fitting services.

Located in the Bridger Center at the base of the gondola. 307739-2687 PG 29 JOLLY JUMBUCK LEATHERS Since 1973 Jackson’s original Shearling store is the locals favorite for shearlings, leathers, and furs. Jackets, vests, belts, wallets, handbags, jewelry travel bags, gloves, scarves, jewelry and more. 20 W. Broadway, jollyjumbuckleathers.com 733-6562 PG 2 LOWRIDER BOARD SHOP Jackson’s only authorized Burton demo center. Decks & boots by Northwave, Burton, Salomon & Atomic.

Clothes by Burton & Sessions. Tunes by Grindrite. Downstairs in the Pepi Stiegler Sports Plaza,Teton Village. 733-4505 PG 33

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SKIS & CLIMBING SKINS CUSTOM MADE – FACTORY DIRECT JACKSON HOLE CLIMBING SKINS DIRECT Manufacturer, designer and online retailer of climbing skins. Ours are the best gliding, lightest, most packable skins on the market. Super durable skins for factory direct prices. ClimbingSkinsDirect.com PG 59 IGNEOUS Custom Skis, hand-crafted in Jackson Hole. 734-8788 www.igneousskis.com PG 61

CHILD & TEEN SERVICES JACKSON HOLE KIDS RANCH Located in the Cody House at JHMR. Infant & child care: ages 6 month-years. Ski/snowboard programs for ages 3-17 years. Kids Ranch participants experience Fort Wyoming, an outdoor playground with a Magic Carpet surface lift. Teen camps available during Christmas, President's Week and Spring Break. 307-739-2788.PG 29 KIDS CLUB at Grand Targhee Resort has a variety of programs for children from infants to age 14. Baby sitting by appointment. PG 48

GIFTS & GROCERIES JACKSON JH RESORT STORE The official logo store of JH Mountain Resort, the source for logo apparel and gifts. Located on the town square, it is the in-town connection for lift tickets, snow conditions and activities. 734-6045 PG 29

GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK DORNAN’S GIFT SHOP In the Moose Village, Grand Teton National Park. 733-2415, ext 301 PG 16 DORNAN’S TRADING POST Gourmet cheeses & specialty foods, full grocery, 24 hour gas available. ATM 733-2415, ext 201; In the Moose Village, Grand Teton National Park. PG 16

ICE SKATING SNOW KING CENTER at the base of Snow King Ski Area offers indoor daily public skating. For an updated schedule and prices call 734-3000 PG 45 OWEN BIRCHER PARK Outdoor public rink, illuminated 6-10 p.m. nightly, downtown Wilson 733-5056.

JEWELRY – ART – WATCHES DANSHELLEY JEWELERS Wearable works of art created by Dan & Shelley, plus other designers using gold & gems. From diamonds to elk ivory & Teton charms. Gaslight Alley, just off the town square. 733-2259 PG 5 HINES GOLDSMITHS Jackson’s premiere gallery of fine jewelry designers since 1970. Elegant one-of-a-kind pieces, diamonds & colored stones. The original Teton pendants & rings, & charms of the area. 80 Center Street, east side of town square. 307-733-5599 PG 15 HINES GOLDSMITHS Authorized dealer of fine Swiss Watches: CARTIER, CHOPARD, BAUME & MERCIER, TAG HEUER, SWISS

Photos: Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy – Chris Newson-top left; Yellowstone National Park, left; Mountaineering in the Tetons, top right; Yellowstone snowcoach trip, right

MERRELL For over 25 years Merrell® has been providing outdoor enthusiasts with quality performance footwear for their active and after sport pursuits. Available at Hoback Sports, Jackson Bootlegger, and Teton Village Sports. pg 39 PEPI STIEGLER SPORTS The most exclusive collection of high performance skis and skiwear for the distinguishing resort shopper. Offering quality service, attention to detail and the best tune in Jackson Hole. Find us in teton Village in the big white building next to Teton Mountain Lodge. 733-45045 PG 33 PETER GLEN SKI & SPORTS Huge selection of ski & snowboard clothing equipment & accessories for men, women, & children, including Spyder, Obermeyer, Bogner, Burton, K2 & more! PG 78 POWDERHORN IS BACK A true ski brand with genuine mountain heritage, Powderhorn relaunches this winter with an authentic line designed with the same spirit originally founded in 1972. www.powderhornworld.com PG 21 TETON VILLAGE SPORTS Jackson Hole’s largest ski & snowboard rental & demo center. Online reservations. Völkl, Tecnica, Head, Rossignol, Salomon, Marker, The North Face, Arcteryx, Cloudveil, Bogner, Black Diamond,Patagonia, and Arbor. Custom footbeds, repair shop, In the Crystal Springs Lodge. 733-2181. PG 88 WILSON BACKCOUNTRY SPORTS Sales and rentals of Telemark, Randonee gear & snowshoes. Quality gear from K2, Black Diamond, Fritschi, Scarpa & Garmont. Free backcountry info. Located in Wilson at the base of Teton Pass, 10 minutes from Jackson and Teton Village. 307733-5228 PG 57

WILD BY NATURE GALLERY features the wildlife & landscape photography of Henry H. Holdsworth. Behind the Wort Hotel, 95 West Deloney. 307-733-8877 PG 67

REAL ESTATE JACKSON HOLE

3 CREEK RANCH Stunning 710 acre community with private Rees Jones golf course, 3 world-class creeks, Clubhouse & fitness center, 3 unique ownership opportunities. 307-739-9292, 888-920-9292 PG 6

SERVICES & INFORMATION

AVALANCHE HAZARD & WEATHER FORECAST 307-733-2664 see story PAGE 66 FOCUSPRODUCTIONS.COM Subscribe to our magazines, order posters & photography. Read the online editions of Jackson Hole Skier, Mountain Country Summer Visitors Guide, & the Jackson Hole Dining Guide. focusproductions.com.

GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK 307-739-3300 INTERNET ACCESS POINTS Snake River Brewery-Free WiFi 7392337; Drive Design 733-7475; Hard Drive Cafe 733-5282; Mountunes Internet Cafe 733-4514, RMO Cafe 734-9438.

JACKSON HOLE & GREATER YELLOWSTONE VISITORS’ CENTER on North Cache Street in Jackson has information on all activities in the area. Mon-Fri 8:00-5:00, Sat-Sun 10-2 pm. or call the JACKSON HOLE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE. 733-3316 JACKSON HOLE GUEST SERVICE CENTER located next to the tram, has information on mountain , valley activities & events, daily snow & weather conditions, Vertical Foot Club, Lost & Found. 739-2753 PG 29 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN HOSTS Complimentary Mountain orientation tours leave from the front of Walk Festival Hall in Teton

GUIDES❄SLED DOGS❄HELI–SKI❄SNOWMOBILING

Village at 9:30 am daily. Hosts can answer questions & assist with anything from airline schedules to off mountain activities. 739-2697 PG 29 JACKSON HOLE TICKET HOSTS at the JHMR are stationed outside the ticket office to help answer questions and acclimate skiers and visitors to Teton Village and the mountain. PG 29 JACKSON HOLE SKI CLUB Since 1938 has provided a ski education foundation for Alpine, Nordic & Snowboard junior racers. For discounts on local services & merchandise, buy a membership at local ski shops. 733-6433 LOST OR STOLEN SKIS should be reported to the Sheriff’s Office 733-4052 or through the Guest Service Center, 739-2753.

SUBLETTE COUNTY VISITOR CENTER Better Than Yellowstone! Leave the crowds behind and discover a wild & remote country surrounded by 3 mountain ranges, abundant snow & wildlife. 1-888-285-7282 PG 53 SKI & SNOWBOARD STORAGE & LOCKERS Leave your gear at the mountain, convenient lockers & basket check available at the Bridger Center. 739-2755 PG 29 TETON COUNTY LIBRARY has 50,000 books including a skiing and mountain climbing section, periodicals, newspapers, historical information and photographs. M-Th 10-9, Fri 10-5:30, Sat 10-5, Sun 1-5. Closed legal holidays. Corner of Snow King & Virginian Lane. 733-2164 TETON VALLEY CHAMBER OF COMMERCE Downtown Driggs, Idaho. 208-354-2500 US POST OFFICE: Teton Village: M-F 9:30-4, Sat 9-12, 733-3575; In Jackson: New P.O.-corner of Powderhorn Ln & Maple Way; Old P.O.-corner of Pearl Av & Millward St. 733-3650.

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 307-344-7381

SKI MOUNTAINEERING, AVALANCHE INFORMATION, GUIDE SERVICES AVALANCHE HAZARD & WEATHER FORECAST 307-733-2664 see story PAGE 66 GRAND TARGHEE GUIDES Guided snowcat trips to Peaked Mountain, mountain tours, X-C, backcountry, and alpine tours, 1800-TARGHEE PG 48 JACKSON HOLE ALPINE GUIDES Lead you to untracked powder & guide you down challenging runs & through the backcountry.

Call Jackson Hole Mountain Sports School, 307-739-2663. PG 29 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN GUIDES Since 1968. Join JHMG for a day of untracked powder & solitude. Novice to expert ski tours, Teton ski mountaineering, Level 1,2 & 3 avalanche courses & ice climbing. AMGA accredited. www.jhmg.com 307-733-4979 PG 57 RENDEZVOUS BACKCOUNTRY TOURS Operates the only hut system in the Tetons, allowing you an unparalleled backcountry experience with our professional guides. Since 1986. Daily Tours for all abilities in Grand Teton Park & Teton Pass. 877-754-4887 www.SkiTheTetons.com PG 59 SNOW KING MOUNTAIN GUIDES We conduct trips off the back of Snow King and Teton Pass for both Nordic and alpine skiers.

734-3030 PG 45 YOSTMARK MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT A full-service backcountry & Nordic specialty shop. We offer guided ski tours & provide a full line of rentals to insure the best tools & information for a quality outdoor experience. Downtown Driggs. 208-354-2828 PG 51

views & wildlife. Age 12 yrs. & up.

Transportation, airport drop-off avail. 307-7331980, 800-563-6469 PG 73 HIGH COUNTRY SNOWMOBILE TOURS Day & multi-day tours to Yellowstone, Togwotee, Gros Ventre, Granite Hot Springs, & Greys River.

Breakfast & hot lunch, clothing, transportation.

An experience of a lifetime. 733-5017, 800-5240130. PG 75 JACKSON HOLE SNOWMOBILE TOURS Over 20 years of family guided tours. Yellowstone, Granite Hot Springs, Togwotee Pass & Continental Divide. Current model powder & 4stroke snowmobiles, experience makes the difference. 733-6850, 800-633-1733 PG 73 LLAMA LOUIE’S RESERVATIONS We can make snowmobiling simple for you. See us for any winter activity - in the Mangy Moose, Teton Village. 733-1617 PG 75 ROCKY MOUNTAIN SNOWMOBILE TOURS Day & multi-day tours of Yellowstone, Gros Ventre, Togwotee, Granite Hot Springs & Greys River.

Day tours include breakfast, lunch & transportation.

733-2237 800-647-2561. email: tours@snowmobiletours.net PG 75

full service X-C operation, with 10 KM of machine groomed trails and track. Full & half day tours into Grand Teton National Park.

Rentals, clinic & lessons. 307-739-2629. PG 29 NORDIC CENTERS Six maintained tracks and centers are open to the public in the Jackson Hole & Yellowstone area. See PAGE 19

TUBE PARKS-TERRAIN PARKS KING TUBES SNOW TUBING PARK A popular wild ride for fun lovers of all ages. Let our lift pull you up, then gravity takes control of your own giant snow tube for the ride of your life. At Snow King Resort. 307-734-TUBE PG 45 GRAND TARGHEE TUBING PARK At the base of Targhee Resort 1800-TARGHEE PG 48 JACKSON HOLE MOUTAIN RESORT On Aprés Vous Mountain, has a 450’ supperpipe, terrain Park. PG 29 SNOW KING HALF PIPE & TERRAIN PARK for snowboarders, served by 2 chairlifts. 307-733-2020 PG 45

HELI & CAT–SKIING ALASKA RENDEZVOUS LODGE & HELI GUIDES, a full-service lodge, operates out of Valdez, Alaska from March 1 through September, offering full-service guides for Heli-skiing, whitewater rafting & fishing. 307-734-0721, 907-822-3300 PG 70 GRAND TARGHEE SNOWCAT POWDER ADVENTURES 500 acres reserved for Snow Cat skiing at Grand Targhee Resort 1-800TARGHEE PG 48 HIGH MOUNTAIN HELI-SKIING flies skiers into the mountains around Jackson Hole for day-long powder-skiing excursions for intermediate to expert skiers. 733-3274 PG 71

TOGWOTEE MOUNTAIN LODGE Premier Snowmobile location. Guided & unguided tours, rentals available, package rates. Featuring trips to Yellowstone & Togwotee Pass.

Cabins, lodge rooms & suites. 307-543-2847 or 800-543-2847, info@togwoteelodge.com PG 75 TRIANGLE C RANCH TOURS Multi-day trips on the Continental Divide Trail. Polaris powder machines, clothing included, transportation available. Lodging, snowmobile from your cabin. 800661-4928 PG 16

SLED DOG ADVENTURES JACKSON HOLE IDITAROD SLED DOG ADVENTURES Half & full day trips into the Teton backcountry & Granite Hot Springs. Learn mushing first hand, drive your own sled team. Meals, transportation, supplemental clothing provided. 307-733-7388 Email-wystagestop@blissnet.com PG 77

TRANSPORTATION – AIR & GROUND GRAND TARGHEE EXPRESS Daily transportation from Jackson Hole & Teton Village to Grand Targhee. PG 48 & 75 LLAMA LOUIE’S RESERVATIONS Targhee Express Bus. 733-1617 See Alpine Skiing & Snowmobiling. PG 75 NEW FLIGHT CHARTERS With a corporate office in Jackson, we are a premium private jet charter brokerage providing ondemand charter flights not only for Jackson Hole, but worldwide.

For more information, visit www.JHAirCharters.com or call (307) 734-7751. PG 63 START BUS Jackson to Teton Village – Schedules , routes & fares are available at bus stops, lodgings & information centers. 733-4521

SKI & SNOWBOARD RESORTS GRAND TARGHEE RESORT On the west side of the Tetons 1-800TARGHEE PG 48 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT 307-733-2292; snow conditions 307-733-2291/1-888-DEE-PSNO see PG 29 NIGHT SKIING AT SNOW KING RESORT Tuesday-Saturday until 8:00pm. Hourly tickets available. Ski report hot line 7342020 PG 45 SNOW KING SKI RESORT Full-day, 1/2 day & 2-hour lift tickets available. Located in the town of Jackson. 307-733-5200 PG 45 WHITE PINE SKI AREA & RESORT 307-367-6606 PG 52

SKI & SNOWBOARD SCHOOLS GRAND TARGHEE SNOWSPORTS SCHOOL is under the direction of Mark Hanson.1-800-TARGHEE (827-4433) PG 48 THE GREAT AMERICAN SKI SCHOOL at Snow King Resort is under the direction of Bill Briggs. A unique down to earth approach to ski instruction. 734-3030 PG 45 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN SPORTS SCHOOL Under the direction of Brian Maguire. The complete mountain experience with children's programs, Alpine guides, snowboarding, private instruction, specialty camps, telemark, & adaptive skiing. 307-739-2663 PG 29

NORDIC SKI CENTERS GRAND TARGHEE NORDIC CENTER Offers 15 KM of groomed and skating lanes. GrandTarghee.com 1-800-TARGHEE PG 48 JACKSON HOLE NORDIC CENTER Located in Teton Village, it is a

w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

LLAMA LOUIE’S RESERVATIONS Snowcat skiing at Grand Targhee can be the ultimate powder experience. The Targhee Express will get you there. See us for any winter activity - in the Mangy Moose, Teton Village. 733-1617 PG 75 TOGWOTEE MOUNTAIN SNOWCAT ADVENTURES Explore the backcounty with the only snowcat ski operation in Jackson Hole.

Steeps, tight trees, open meadows, tons of snow, and the best views in the area. Located on Togwotee Pass. Call for reservations. 1-800-543-2847; 307-543-2847 PG 71

SNOWMOBILING BEST ADVENTURES Your best guided adventure of Yellowstone, no experience necessary. Hot breakfast & hot lunch at Old Faithful. New 4-stroke sleds, & warm clothing provided, double riders. 307-733-4845, 800-851-0827 PG 73 GRAND TETON PARK SNOWMOBILE RENTAL Unguided snowmobile rentals into both National. parks or Togwotee Mt. Your schedule,your pace, 1/2 day specials. Clothing included. Teton

WILDLIFE & PHOTO SAFARIS SLEIGH RIDES — TOURS NATIONAL ELK REFUGE SLEIGH RIDES View elk, mule deer, coyotes, eagles, bison, & more, while riding a horse drawn sleigh thru the National Elk Refuge. Departs from the JH visitor’s center. 532 N Cache 307-733-0277; 1-800-772-5386 PG 18 WILDLIFE EXPEDITIONS OF TETON SCIENCE SCHOOL provides year-round wildlife viewing & natural history interpretation to anyone interested in close-up, ethical viewing of Greater Yellowstone’s wild animals in their natural habitat. www.wildlifeexpeditions.org 307-733-2623 PG 11

YELLOWSTONE SNOWCOACH TOURS YELLOWSTONE SNOWCOACH EXCURSIONS TRIANGLE C RANCH Ride in the luxurious comfort of an over-the-snow Ford Excursion. Breakfast & Lunch. Experienced & knowledgeable guides. Private trips available. 800-661-4928 PG 16

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Bob Woodall

Lodging Directory Alpenhof Lodge

Grand Targhee Resort

The European-style Alpenhof Lodge is located next to the tram in Teton Village. The Alpenhof is known for friendly professional service, cozy rooms and creative Swiss cuisine. Many rooms feature fireplaces and/or balconies and everyone enjoys a complimentary breakfast to start the day.

Each of the three western-style lodges at Grand Targhee are located within steps of the lifts. Ski, board or hike “home” to the Targhee or Teewinot Lodges, or the Sioux Lodge suites. We also offer a wide range of condominiums, vacation homes and townhomes a short distance away.

P.O. Box 288, Teton Village, WY 83025 1-800-732-3244 www.alpenhoflodge.com res@alpenhoflodge.com

Alta, Wyoming 83001 1-800-TARGHEE www.GrandTarghee.com

Dornanʼs Spur Ranch Cabins

Homewood Suites

by Hilton®

On the banks of the Snake River in Moose, Wyoming, we are surrounded by Grand Teton National Park and have stunning views of the Tetons. We are also within easy driving distance of Yellowstone National Park (45 miles) and the town of Jackson (12 miles). X-C ski or snowshoe from your cabin door.

The new Homewood Suites by Hilton® is located just off the Town Square. From our hotel, you'll have easy access to all that Jackson Hole has to offer, from world class snow sports to eclectic shopping, galleries and restaurants. Free airport & ski shuttle.

Grand Teton National Park, Moose, WY 307-733-2522 www.dornans.com

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LODGING INDEX

260 N Millward, Jackson, Wyoming 83001 Tel: 1-307-739-0808 Fax: 1-307-739-9899 www.Jacksonwy.Homewoodsuites.com

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Hostel

We make it cheaper and easier for you to ski the legendary Jackson Hole Mountain Resort while staying slopeside. Filled to the rafters with ambiance, we offer both private rooms with private bathrooms, and the chance to mingle with your fellow travelers, Hostelstyle.1 or 2 persons $109, 3 or 4 Persons $119.

Teton Village, Wyoming 83025 307-733-3415 www.thehostel.us, info@thehostel.us

Inn On The Creek Ideally located 3 blocks from Jackson’s Historic Town Square and open year round, Inn on the Creek offers sumptuously decorated rooms. A homemade signature breakfast is served each morning at the Inn’s beautiful common table where lively conversation is always plentiful. A perfect start to any day.

295 North Millward Jackson, Wyoming, 83001 Tel: 1-307-739-1565 Fax: 1-307-734-9116 www.innonthecreek.com

Jackson Hole Resort Lodging

Snake River Lodge & Spa Snake River Lodge & Spa, a RockResort, is Jackson’s first AAA Four Diamond Slopeside Lodge. Enjoy the ease of slope-side lodging.

Indulge yourself in the 17,000 sq. ft. Avanyu Spa with an indoor/outdoor swimming pool.

Enjoy entertainment in Fireside Lounge and dining in the GameFish Restaurant.

7710 Granite Loop, Teton Village, WY 83025 307-732-6000 www.snakeriverlodge.com

Snow King Resort

Nestled at the base of Snow King Mountain, six blocks from Jackson Hole's historic Town Square, Snow King Resort offers 204 hotel rooms and 1 to 4 bedroom condos in a comfortable, elegant Western style. Full-service property with restaurant, lounge, pool, hot tub, spa, ski rental shop and free wi-fi. On property: skiing, night skiing, snow tube park and ice skating.

P.O. Box SKI, Jackson, Wyoming 83001 800-552-KING / 307-733-5200 www.snowking.com

Terra Resort Group

We offer the largest number of Jackson Hole vacation lodging rental properties in Teton Village, as well as condo rentals and homes at The Aspens and Teton Pines. Whether you’re looking for traditional Jackson Hole mountain charm or a more luxurious lodging experience, we have it all.

3 distinct lodges offer something for everyone.

Eco-luxury Hotel Terra: Terra Café for breakfast & lunch, Italian Osteria, “Chill Spa,” Elegant Teton Mountain Lodge & Spa: 12,000 sq ft. Solitude Spa, pools, hot tubs, fitness center and Cascade restaurant for all meals and après ski. Affordable and comfortable Inn at Jackson Hole.

McCollister Drive, Teton Village, WY 83025 800-443-8613 Fax: 307-734-1077 www.jhrl.com, info@jacksonhole.com

Teton Village, Wyoming www.terraresortgroup.com 800-631-6271

The Lodge At Pinedale

Togwotee Mountain Lodge

Located on west end of Pinedale. Refrigerator & microwave in every room. Children 12 & under free with adult. Guest laundry. Front desk staffed 24 hours. Indoor pool & jacuzzi.

Three story motel with inside hallway access to rooms. Open year round with 43 rooms and up to 150 guests. Complimentary guest voice mail and DSL in every room.

Host for the only snow-cat skiing operation in Jackson Hole. Angle Mountain, located directly behind the lodge provides1600 vertical on 750 acres of terrain. Stay in main lodge or cabins with kitchenettes. One-stop shop for winter fun, including dog sledding & snowmobile tours in the national forest and parks. All inclusive packages or ala carte.

P.O. Box 91, Moran, WY 83013 866-278-4245 / 307-534-2847 www.togwoteelodge.com info@togwoteelodge.com

1054 W Pine, Pinedale WY, 82941 1-866-995-6343 or 307-367-8800 www.lodgeatpinedale.com

Painted Buffalo Inn

Town Square Inns

Discover why the West is wild with adventure.

All of Wyoming’s winter activities await you and the Painted Buffalo Inn, just 3 blocks from the Jackson Town Square, will be there to warm you after a day of snow-filled adventure. Swimming pool, sauna and shuttle stop are just a few of the conveniences we offer our guests.

Our 4 lodging properties, Antler Inn, 49er Inn & Suites, Elk Country Inn and Cowboy Village, are in the heart of downtown Jackson. From beautiful 2-room log cabins, to fireplace suites, to hotel rooms, we have accommodations to fit every desire & budget. Located just off the town square, we are within walking distance of the many fine attractions that Jackson, Grand Teton & Yellowstone parks have to offer.

400 West Broadway, Jackson, WY 83001 800-288-3866 / 307-733-4340 www.paintedbuffaloinn.com info@paintedbuffaloinn.com w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

330 W Pearl, Jackson, WY 83001 1-800-4-TETONS / 307-733-7550 www.townsquareinns.com 2 0 0 9 JAC KS O N H O L E S K I E R

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Mount Moran 12,605 ft.

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Lift serviced terrain: 2,000 acres, 10% beginner, 70% intermediate, 20% advanced.

Vertical rise: 2,000 ft. Longest run: 2.5 miles.

Base elevation: 8,000 ft.

Top elevation: 10,000 ft.

Average annual snowfall: 42 ft. (504 inches).

500 acres groomed terrain.

South Teton 12,514 ft.

Middle Teton 12,804 ft.

Fred's Mt. Elevation 10,000 ft.

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SNOW KING SKI AREA Mountain Characteristics Skiable terrain: 400 plus acres, 15% beginner, 25% intermediate, 60% advanced.

Vertical rise: 1,571 ft. Longest run: 9/10 mile.

Base Elevation: 6,300 ft.

Top elevation 7,871 ft. 300 acres of machine groomed terrain.

• Night Skiing.

• KingTubes Snow Tubing Park.

• Half Pipe & Terrain Park

Ski Lifts 1 triple chair, 2 double chairs 1 surface tow.

WHITE PINE SKI AREA & RESORT Mountain Characteristics Lift serviced terrain: 380 acres, 20% beginner, 60% intermediate, 20% advanced.

Vertical rise: 1,100 ft.

Longest run: 1.5 miles.

Base elevation: 8,400 ft.

Top elevation: 9,500 ft.

Average annual snowfall: 250 inches.

Ski Lifts 2-Triple Chairs, 1-Surface Lift

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JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT Mountain Characteristics Skiable terrain: 2,500 acres, 10% beginner, 40% intermediate, 50% advanced.

Base elevation 6,311 ft.

Summit elevation: 10,450 ft.

Vertical rise: 4,139 ft. (longest continuous in the country).

Longest run: 4.7 miles.

Average annual snowfall: 38 feet (456 inches).

22 miles of machine groomed terrain.

Ski Lifts 1 100-passenger Aerial Tram 1 eight-passenger gondola, 6 quad chairs (2 high speed) 2 triple chairs, 2 double chair 1 magic carpet surface lift

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Jackson Hole & Greater Ye l l o w s t o n e Visitors’ Center

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LODGING 89 To: GRAND TETON & YELLOWSTONE Antler Motel – 20 26 NATIONAL PARKS Cowboy Village Resort – 27 191 JACKSON HOLE AIRPORT 189 Elk Country Inn – 26 TOGWOTEE PASS 49er Inn – 28 Homewood Suites Hilton – 2 Inn on the Creek – 1 PERRY ST Painted Buffalo Inn – 24 TETON COUNTY Snow King Resort – 23 HISTORICAL CENTER MERCELL PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO 1 DD Camera Corral – 17 2 GILL AVE Wild By Nature Gallery – 4 RECREATION MILLER PARK 3 Jackson Hole Mountain Guides – 3 5 King Tube Tubing Park – 22 4 K JH MUSEUM 6 EE Snow King Center & Ice Rink – 22 DELONEY AVE R C Snow King Mountain – 22 9 AT SKI & SPORTING GOODS SHOPS FL Hoback Sports – 25 •• WEST. BROADWAY Jack Dennis Sports – 15 • 14 12 24 13 SNOWMOBILING High Country Snowmobiling – 33 PEARL AVE 16 Jackson Hole ••• 26 $ BANK 19 20 28 Snowmobile Tours – 30 TO W N U.S. POST 25 27 PA R K I N G Rocky Mountain Tours – 33 OFFICE Center LOT For Togwotee Snowmobile – 35 The 29 Arts T FLA

APPAREL Cloudveil Mountain Works – 19 Hoback Sports – 25 Jolly Jumbuck Leather – 14 Jack Dennis Outdoor Shop – 15 ART - JEWELRY - GIFTS -HOME DanShelley Jewelers – 6 Hines Goldsmiths – 10 Jackson Hole Resort Store – 11 JC Jewelers – 8 DINING & ENTERTAINMENT The Atrium @ Snow King Resort – 23 Billy's Giant Hamburgers – 9 The Bunnery – 7 Cadillac Grille – 9 Cafe Ponza – 13 43 North – 21 Gun Barrel Steak & Game House – 31 Jackson Hole Buffalo Meats – 34 & 5 The Lounge @ Snow King Resort – 23 McDonald's of Jackson Hole – 32 Mountain High Pizza – 12 Snake River Brewery – 29 Sweetwater Restaurant – 18 Teton Steakhouse – 16 TO: SPRING

SNOW KING MOUNTAIN & SKI AREA

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Celebrating over 24 years, conveniently located on the town square. Serving Black Angus steaks, game, fresh seafood and pasta.

Innovative dishes prepared with the freshest ingredients makes the Cadillac Grille a local favorite.

The CADILLAC GRILLE

Premium well drinks, an excellent wine list and microbrews. Join us nightly in our lounge for Happy Hour 5-7 p.m.

733-3279. Reservations advised. Large groups are welcome Open daily at 11:30 a.m., dinner at 5:30 p.m.

www.cadillac-grille.com email: jacksoncadillacgrille@yahoo.com

On the Town Square, next to Billy’s Giant Hamburger

307.733.4159 800.543.6328

Smith’s

MADE IN

JACKSON HOLE

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We’re a Jackson Hole MUST-SEE! Try free HHig Highh Schhhooll Rd samples in our factory store on Highway 89 at Smith’s Plaza.

Buffalo & Elk Steak Pack

100% Natural

Hoback

100% Natural

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. . . and don’t forget our NEW RETAIL STORE in Gaslight Alley across from Jackson Town Square

Buffalo Filet 100% Natural

Trapper-Style

Buffalo Jerky

100% Natural

www.buybuffalomeat.com call 800.543.6328 for a free catalog

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Wade McKoy / John Verdon