Adventure Guide 2011
GRAND TETON & YELLOWSTONE COUNTRY
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Mountain Towns • National Parks Vacation Excursions • Regional Map yellowstoneadventureguide.com
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JEWELRY ORIGINALS
35 YEARS OF INSPIRATION AT 6000 FT.
Gaslight Alley • Downtown Jackson Hole • 125 N.Cache
www.danshelley.com • info@danshelley.com • 307.733.2259 ALL DESIGNS COPYRIGHTED
ACTIVITIES 6 14 16 18 20 22 23 24 25 26 30 32 34 36 42 46 48
101 Things To Do Northern Arapaho Experience Paragliding Hiking Fishing Invasive Aquatic Species Rafting the Snake River Kayaking Alpine Lakes Boating Information Biking Climbing Horseback Riding Shooting Range Made in Wyoming Cody Nite Rodeo Jackson Hole Resort Grand Targhee Resort
MAPS & DIRECTORIES 54 55 56 58
Dining Guide Lodging Guide Business Directory Greater Yellowstone Map
NATURE 6 6 14 15 17
Greater Yellowstone Ecosytem Wildlife Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center National Bighorn Sheep Center Risks to Nature
MUSEUMS 40 43 44 51
Buffalo Bill Historical Center Buffalo Bill Dam Jackson Hole Historical Society Museum of the Mountain Man
TOWNS 38 39 44 46 48 50 53
Alpine Cody Jackson Teton Village Grand Targhee Pinedale Dubois
Cover: Jess McMillan bushwacks the steep benches of Cascade Canyon, with Mt Owen (center left), and the Grand Teton (far left) in the background; photo by Wade McKoy
Contents: Rainbow, Two Ocean Peak, Togwotee Pass; photo by Bob Woodall Publishers: Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy, dba Focus Productions, Inc. (FPI) Editors: Mike Calabrese, Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall Photo Editor: Eric Rohr Art Director: Janet Melvin Distribution Manager: Brandon Arbour Advertising Sales: Nanci Montgomery, 307-699-1607 Ike Faust, Bob Woodall, Teri Quigley, Katie Hubbard focus.ads@bresnan.net, 307-733-6995
Grand Teton & Yellowstone Country Adventure Guide is a free visitor’s guide published annually in May and distributed all summer at hundreds of locations throughout Jackson Hole, Cody, West Yellowstone, Pinedale, Dubois, and other regional communities, and at information centers throughout the Greater Yellowstone area. focus.info@bresnan.net
Copyright 2011 by Focus Productions, Inc., P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming 83001. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publishers.
Go online and easily view our three magazines— the Jackson Hole Dining Guide, the Jackson Hole Skier, and the Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide: facebook.com/focusjh focusproductions.com tetonadventureguide.com yellowstoneadventureguide.com
Order magazines, posters, and photos online. For mail-order copies of the current set of three magazines,send $12 to FPI Magazines, P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming 83001.
INTEGRITY, KNOWLEDGE and CREATIVITY In the log cabin next to Teton Theatre just off the town square 132 North Cache Jackson Hole, Wyoming
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1O1 THINGS TO DO Vacation Adventures in Mountain Country
Hiking in Grand Teton National Park brings majestic peaks close at hand.
That’s what vacations are all about. Soak in the sights. Flip through the Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide and check out the fun things to do in this vast land. Utilize the area’s wonderful visitor centers, some tourist attractions themselves. Local bookstores and libraries provide great resources, too. Dogtooth violet
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Photography by Bob Woodall, Wade McKoy, and Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild by Nature Gallery
A black bear forages for fall berries.
Snake River spotted cutthroat trout, the prize of local waters.
NATIONAL PARKS First, get in the gate. A single entrance fee gains access to both Grand Teton National Park (GTNP) and Yellowstone National Park (YNP). These entrance gates are not information booths, though, so be sure to visit the wellstaffed, well-stocked information centers found in our parks and gateway towns. The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem (GYE), the largest intact ecosystem in the lower 48 states, includes a dozen mountain ranges along the Great Divide, the first and largest national park and national forest, the farthest point from a road outside Alaska, and, not surprisingly, wildlife galore. Slow down and watch for wildlife—Sometimes called the American Serengeti, YNP and GTNP are home to bison, elk, deer, moose, grizzly and black bear, wolves, mountain lion, wolverine, osprey, eagles, and a myriad of other small animals, too. Go early in the morning and keep your eyes peeled. Lamar and Hayden valleys in YNP are sure bets for bison, wolves, and grizzly bears. Moose frequent willowed bottomlands. Be careful, though, and never approach or feed wildlife. For great results, take a wildlife tour with qualified guides. w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
Teton-Yellowstone country’s mountain bike trail systems rival the world’s best.
Waterfalls—The 308-foot Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River is the granddaddy of the many roadside water features, but a hike can reveal the park’s more obscure, spectacular torrents. In the Tetons thousands of sightseers trek to Hidden Falls, which, for many, begins with a scenery-drenched boat ride across Jenny Lake. Smell the wild roses—The mountains are famous for a profusion of wildflowers. Starting in late May and June, dazzling displays of color follow the snowline into the mountains. Some are tiny, especially the ones above timberline, so look closely. Old Faithful Inn—Of course the Old Faithful Geyser is on your mustsee list, but don’t forget to step inside the spectacular Old Faithful Inn. Nearly 110 years old and bathed in a rich history, it’s recently undergone a $22 million renovation. Ranger Programs—From Ranger Adventure Hikes to Family Campfire Evenings to Stars Over Yellowstone, these programs offer something for the whole family. The park newspaper contains all the schedules. Get on the bus—Tired of having to watch the road while everyone else 2 0 1 1 T E TO N & Y E L L OW STO N E A DV E N T U R E G U I D E
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1O1 THINGS TO DO
White-water rafting is tops in the Snake River and Shoshone River canyons.
Rock Camp at the Jackson Hole Music Experience
Swan and cygnet
gets to look for bears? Then view Yellowstone from the perspective of early park visitors by touring in the luxury of a refurbished “Historic Yellow Bus.” Photograph the sights—Digital, film, recorder, whatever. Everybody’s a pro out here. Get a long lens, too. Again, don’t ever approach wild animals! They can easily outrun people and simply aren’t as fond of us as we are of them. Need some help with your photography? Hook up with Paul Martin for a photo safari. Passport to your national parks—A fun way to track your lifetime travels across America, buy a “Passport Book” at the park visitor center. Each time you visit a park or monument (there are 390), take the passport book to the Cancellation Station and get it stamped. Road closures—Summer is construction season in the mountains. Expect road improvement projects on many of the major routes in YNP and GTNP. These include pavement preservation projects—each lasts 2-to-4 weeks. Thirty-minute delays and pilot vehicles mark these spots. Plan accordingly.
EDUCATION Museums—Not surprisingly, most mountain country communities house local museums, rich in area history, quaint and colorful in setting. Then there’s the big boys: Cody’s Buffalo Bill Historical Center (pg. 40) and Jackson’s National Museum of Wildlife Art. “Inside the Museum” treks will inspire kids and adults alike at the Buffalo Bill site, as participants engage in a hunt for historical-object details. Jackson’s National Museum of Wildlife Art exhibits over 5,000 works of art on wildlife and nature, many historic. The world-renowned museum’s grounds and building incorporate art both subtle and dramatic. Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center—Got skunked in Yellowstone, never spotting a wolf or bear? Don’t despair. Head to West Yellowstone and say hello to Sam the grizzly or Takoda the wolf at this increasingly spectacular viewing facility (pg. 14).
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A rodeo queen makes her Grand Entrance.
Libraries—Books, music, movies, lectures, computers, and insight into just about every community in mountain country. Great havens for tired travelers and curious kids, especially if the weather is a tad uncooperative. Bookstores—Some with coffee, pastries, newspapers, wi-fi, but all with books and settings that enrich readers young and old!
CULTURE Rock Camp—Teen musicians learn to perform in a rock-and-roll band under the tutelage of Steve Bailey, Cameron Morgan, Dudley Taft, and a staff of professional musicians at the Jackson Hole Music Experience. During the week-long camp, student drummers, bassists, guitar players, vocalists, and horn players form bands, select and practice songs to perform at the Friday Participants Concert, and go to daily clinics in their chosen instrument(s). The highlight of the week is the Experience Party, open to the public, where food and drink mix with music by the world-renowned faculty. Rock Camp is open to 6th graders and older with a minimum one year study in their instrument. July 11-15. Web: www.jhme.org Email: info@jhme.org Music festivals—A whole score of music awaits mountain country travelers, including the 24th Annual Yellowstone Jazz Festival, with performances at various locations in Cody and Powell; the Jackson Hole Cowboy Jubilee in September; the Grand Teton Music Festival in Jackson Hole; and Grand Targhee’s Bluegrass and Targhee Fest and music camps. Jackson’s Center for the Arts hosts a number of music and dance concerts, stage presentations, and art shows. Art fairs—There’s no better way to celebrate nature’s art-inspiring elements than at one of the many artists’ fairs highlighting summer weekends throughout mountain country. Watch artisans at work while wandering through festive outdoor galleries. Antique shows—Snap up a bargain and perhaps a piece of history at one
Photograph the sights. Everybody’s a pro out here. Get a long lens, too, and don’t ever approach wild animals! They can easily outrun people and simply aren’t as fond of us as we are of them. Bull moose among rocky mountain wildflowers
Tandem paraglide flights, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort
The late Cameron Garnick leads a pack string through the Teton Wilderness.
of the many antique road shows hosted in mountain country. Classic car show— View or bid on vintage cars displayed at the Silver Collector Car Show and Auction, July 3-5 at Jackson’s Snow King Resort. Early Iron and the Rod Run—Keep your eyes peeled for vintage and antique cars and pickups cruising “the strip” around Jackson Hole in June and in West Yellowstone, early August. Gallery walks—Stroll through the many art galleries in mountain towns. It doesn’t cost to look! Join the organized “walks.” Drive-in theaters—Not many of these left in the world, but one of the more famous, the Spud Drive-in Theatre, just south of Driggs, Idaho, is a trip back in time. Look for the giant spud on the old red flatbed truck, just off the highway between Victor and Driggs, Idaho. IMAX—The IMAX theater in West Yellowstone shows special releases on the parks. Film festivals—Fall film festivals include the Jackson Hole Wildlife Film Festival, Frank’s Fest at Teton Theater, the Jackson Hole Film Institute’s offerings, and the August Spud Fest, a real spectacle at the Spud Drive-in. Teton Gravity Research, one of the country’s fastest growing action sports brands, always has something cooking, too. Live theater—Family fun right in the heart of towns like Jackson Hole, West Yellowstone, and Cody, some even hosting dinner theater for eats and antics. Go out to eat—An army runs on its stomach, and an army of tourists has countless dining opportunities not available in many areas. Take advantage of mountain country’s diverse gustatory offerings. Fire department chicken fries and barbecues—Throughout summer volunteer fire departments throw fundraising chicken-fries and BBQs. All visitors are welcomed. A great way to meet locals and experience a sweet slice of American pie. Dance to the music—Don’t just dance to the music, dance to live music. w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
Many bars and taverns offer nightly live music. Get out and kick up your heels! Learn to Western Swing: free lessons at 7:30 on Thursday nights at Jackson’s Cowboy Bar. Learn to Square Dance: another Western tradition, master the dosido and allemande left on Tuesday nights at the Rustic Pine Tavern in Dubois, Wyoming. Families welcomed. Watch for info in all our western towns.
WATER, WATER, EVERYWHERE Go fish—Mountain country holds some of the best fishing steams and lakes in the lower 48 states. The area abounds with fishing shops and guide services. Hire a guide or just get out and explore (pg. 20). White-water rafting—The Snake, Yellowstone, and Shoshone rivers sport miles of white-water action. Myriad commercial services are available, or rent a raft and go get wet (pg. 23). Scenic raft trips—Not into getting wet? How about a sublime sunrise voyage on the Snake River in front of the Grand Tetons? Watch bald eagles soar or dive for breakfast. Canoeing—Want to be a little more intimate with the water? The possibilities are almost endless. Take the family to String Lake in GTNP for a paddle on crystal-clear mountain waters. White-water kayaking—To get really personal with the river, there’s nothing like being in a kayak, splashing through rapids or surfing a wave for as long as you can hold on. Sea kayaking—Not just for the ocean, sea kayaks are more stable than the white-water version, and are a great way to explore lakes and steams (pg. 24). Stand Up Paddle Boards—SUP for short, this fast growing sport is gaining popularity in land locked places like Wyoming. Rent one and take a walk in the park on a lake or river. Cruise—Scenic cruises depart from marinas on Jackson Lake and Jenny 2 0 1 1 T E TO N & Y E L L OW STO N E A DV E N T U R E G U I D E
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1O1 THINGS TO DO
Swimming in Jackson Lake
A Yellowstone wolf
A drive over Beartooth Pass transports motorists to an elevation of 10,947 feet.
Lake in GTNP, and on Yellowstone Lake in YNP. On Jackson Lake, breakfast and dinner cruises fill out the day’s menu. Water slide and pool—Rained out or just want to get some exercise? Then head to the J.H. Rec. Center. Complete with lap pool, kids’ pool, Jacuzzi, steam room, and three-story water slide. Bring the whole family. Supervised, adultled day-adventure programs for kids are available, too. Ask about public swimming pools in all mountain country towns. Swim alfresco—You’ll find a number of unique options for outdoor swimming around mountain country. In YNP, check out the Firehole River near Madison Jct. or the Boiling River near Gardiner, where hot springs flow into the river (swimming in hot springs themselves is prohibited and dangerous). In GTNP, String Lake is an outstanding swimming hole, safe for the whole family. If you want it hot and in a commercial swimming pool, visit Granite Hot Springs, south of Jackson. Water ski—The water may be chilly, but the summer sun provides warmth if you want to try the other skiing option. Jackson Lake in GTNP and Fremont Lake near Pinedale offer a number of possibilities for these sports. Sailing—Fremont Lake outside Pinedale, Jackson Lake in GTNP, and Yellowstone Lake all have sailboats in the docks and on the water. Best dam views—Completed in 1910, the Buffalo Bill Dam near Cody is the most impressive one this side of the Hoover Dam. Stroll across the dam and peer 350 feet into the canyon bottom (pg. 43). In GTNP, drive over the Jackson Lake Dam, gaze across the lake at the Tetons, and marvel at the thundering waters churning from the spillways below.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS Hiking—An almost endless supply of trails radiate into the mountains. The only limits are your legs and longing. The views? You supply the adjectives (pg. 18). Camping—The great outdoors were made for camping. Get away from
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Yellowstone River’s Lower Falls
the motor home and rough it! Cook out on an open fire and sleep under the stars. Nothing like it under the sun, of course. Climb the Grand—Often listed in the 100 things to do in your life, and for a good reason! Its peak 7,000 feet above the valley, topping the Grand is an attainable goal for anyone in good physical condition and among the right companions. Climbing lessons—If you’re going to climb the Grand, or something not quite as grand, you might want a few of these. Some of the world’s best guides and instructors live here (pg. 30). Mountain biking—Our trail systems are among the best in the country (pg. 26). Pathways—Walk, ride a bike, rollerblade. Jackson Hole’s pathway system rewards all users with a peaceful state of mind (pg. 26).
RUNNING, BIKING RACES Running a marathon—If you’re a runner on vacation, make a foot race part of the fun. Quite a few towns sponsor marathons and half-marathon as part of holiday events and fairs. In Jackson, run up Snow King Mountain or 4,139-foot Rendezvous Peak. Enter a 24-hour relay—In the Cache-Teton Relay from August 12-13, 2011, 12-person teams start in Logan, Utah, run 190 miles through four national forests along the historic Oregon Trail and shoreline of the Blackfoot Reservoir, then course through Star Valley and finally tear along the Snake River to finish at the foot of the Tetons (www.epicrelays.com). Mountain bike races—No surprise to find plenty of mountain bike races in the Rockies. Teton Village alone hosts four races, including a cycle-cross and the ultimate hill climb up 4,139 vertical feet to the top of Rendezvous Mountain. The Victor/Driggs biking community hosts as many. For local info check in with bike shops throughout mountain country.
Learn toWestern Swing: free lessons at 7:30 onThursday nights at Jackson’s Cowboy Bar. Learn to Square Dance: another Western tradition, master the dosido and allemande left on Tuesday nights at the Rustic Pine Tavern in Dubois, Wyoming.
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Western Swing dancing at the Cowboy Bar
Road bike races—One of the few – and possibly the best – is the LOTOJA (Logan to Jackson, www. lotojaclassic.com). This 206-mile European-style road/classic competition attracts nearly 1,000 cyclists on September 10, 2011.
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GET A LIFT Hop on the bus—In Jackson Hole the START Bus makes getting around easy. Ride all over Jackson for free. Buses are on a half-hour schedule. Hourly departures go to Teton Village. Adults are $3 and seniors and grades 12 and under are half price. Go to startbus.com for a complete schedule and maps. Tram—Ascend 4,139 feet above the valley floor aboard the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram. At the summit of Rendezvous Mountain, a lofty 10,450 feet, tram passengers step out into the Alpine zone at the edge of the tree line. Take in the 360-degree panorama of the Jackson Hole valley and gaze deep into the mountains. From the top there are several ways to get back to the valley: ride the tram, hike the trails, even fly (pg. 46). Tandem paragliding—From the top of the tram, sprout wings on a 20-minute tandem flight with Jackson Hole Paragliding. Certified pilots with hundreds of hours flying in the Tetons are eager to introduce first-timers to the exhilarating experience of tandem paragliding (pg. 46). w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
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1O1 THINGS TO DO
Surfing the wave at Lunch Counter, Snake River Canyon
Red fox kit on a buck-and-rail fence
Campfires under the stars, a highlight of backcountry ventures
Chair lifts—Not only do these lifts get you up above it all for an impressive view of the scenery, but they also provide a quick access for hikers and mountain bikers. Both Snow King and Grand Targhee mountain resorts offer rides (pg. 48). Dine on a mountainside—Ride the Bridger Gondola at Teton Village to the Couloir Restaurant for a peak dining experience, 2,730 feet above the valley. Or head up for afternoon cocktails on The Deck and take in the sunset over Jackson Hole. The ride is free. Balloon rides—Greet the morning by lofting into the crisp mountain air under a colorful hot-air balloon. Bungee-trampolining—Give your child the thrill of a trampoline with the lift and spring of bungee cords (pg. 46). Alpine slide—Ride the chair lift up, then board a sled for a journey down a mountain slide that curves and dips through the forest at Snow King. Glider rides—Mountains create updrafts, and that means good gliding. Check the Driggs, Idaho, airport for information on glider rides.
GET WESTERN Mountain man rendezvous—The Green River Rendezvous on July 10, 2011, in Pinedale, Wyoming, is a pageant that educates visitors about the history of fur-trade era events. Rendezvous also take place throughout the summer in Jackson, Alpine, and West Yellowstone and are open to the public. Great places to find unique items. Or, outfit yourself and join in the fun! Indian Powwows—This is Indian country, too, so take in a traditional Powwow. The most prominent one is the 30th Annual Plains Indian Powwow, June 18-19, 2011, in Cody, at the BBHC. Indian dancers attempt to catch the judges’ eyes with personal style, footwork falling on the beat of the music, and beautifully crafted dance attire (pg. 39). Indian dancing—On the Wind River Reservation just south of Riverton,
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Family friendly hiking at Bradley Lake
Wyoming, the Northern Arapaho Experience showcases traditional dancing. At 6 p.m. every Tuesday and Thursday all summer, it’s free to the public (pg. 14). Chuckwagon dinners and shows—Ranging from dinner under the Tetons at Dornan’s to polished shows with cowboy musicians and theater in most mountain country towns. In Teton Village, mount a gentle horse or ride in a covered wagon to a hearty Dutch-oven dinner complete with campfire entertainment. Trail rides, pack trips, and horseback rides—You are in the West after all, so what better way to experience it than astride a horse! Head to the hills for an hour, a day, or even a week (pg. 32). Wagon trains on Togwotee—Just like a pioneer of old, head out into the wilderness in a covered wagon. Experience a campfire under spectacular Western skies. Stagecoach rides—In Jackson Hole, a short ride around downtown Jackson is a great activity for the kids. From Roosevelt Lodge in YNP, stagecoaches, replicas of those used in early park days, course through four miles of sagebrush and flower-embroidered flats. Cody Trolley Tours—A 60-minute, 22-mile tour in a comfortable red and green trolley. Narrators share the story of world-famous William F. “Buffalo Bill” Cody while highlighting historical sites, scenic vistas, geology, wildlife, and Old- and New-West attractions. Dude ranches—The quintessential Western vacation. From rustic to polished, these weeklong immersions into the lore of the Old West are the perfect family getaway. Rodeo—The Old West rides into the arena nightly in Cody and several times a week in Jackson and West Yellowstone. Rodeos are also an integral part of July 4th celebrations throughout the West (pg. 42). Shootout—The legendary Old West shootout is re-enacted nightly on the streets of Jackson and Cody. For real-action shooting, though, check out
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The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, the largest intact ecosystem in the lower 48 states, includes a dozen mountain ranges along the Great Divide, the first and largest national park and national forest, the farthest point from a road outside Alaska, and, not surprisingly, wildlife galore. Jenny Lake boaters get close to the Tetons.
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Covered wagon rides carry vacationers back to the pioneer days.
Cody’s Wild West Shootout competition in June. No blanks for this event. Visit a ghost town—Tour the abandoned goldmining town of Kirwin in the mountains southwest of Meeteetse. Four-wheel drive recommended. Cody’s Old Trail Town—One-of-a-kind buildings from the past, including the hideout used by Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. Some historic graves, too! Mule Days—Don’t be stubborn, check out Jake Clark’s Mule Days in Cody, June 16-19, 2011. Not just a pack “ani-mule,” this event has a mule parade, rodeo, and auction that highlight the abilities of the venerable saddle mule.
TEE TIME Mini golf—Everyone can enjoy this one, without breaking the bank, either! Cody, West Yellowstone, Jackson Hole, and more tucked away at motels all over mountain country. Frisbee golf—What a combo! Can you imagine it? At both JHMR and Grand Targhee (pg. 46 & 48). Real golf—More golf courses than you can shake a stick (or a club) at! Jackson Hole sports four, Teton Valley is home to a couple, and the loop from Cody to West Yellowstone to Ashton, Idaho, to Jackson to Dubois, Wyoming, must hold w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
a dozen more. Naturally, the prices range from family to fortune.
SPECIAL EVENTS Elk antler auction—Jackson’s is the King of the Heap, held in late May every year. A real downhome Western-town gathering and kickoff to spring in mountain country. Farmers Market—No reason to head to the mega market for your fresh food. Watch for popular Farmers Markets throughout the area. Fourth of July—Music, rodeos, community picnics, parades, foot races, and of course fireworks. What more can we say? Check the local papers for complete lists of events. County fairs—These are real community events out here in the West. Horses, cows, pigs, sheep, and the best-grown produce of locals as well as fiddle contests, magic shows, even carnival rides and stands complete with corn dogs and cotton candy.
LOOK UP AT THE STARS Now that night has fallen, don’t just hit the sack. Make sure you go out and look up! If you’re a city dweller, this is an experience you shouldn’t miss. The Milky Way sweeps across the clear western sky in a blaze of light and confirms the existence of real stars and astronomical delights. — Teton Yellowstone Adventure Guide
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Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center a live rainbow from the habitat’s stocked pond beats looking at even the most famous and widespread photos of Kodiaks swatting at salmon. Impressive as those images are, they simply can’t convey the deft quickness of an 800-pound grizzly. The center’s wolves roam in their own River Valley Wolf Habitat, separate from that of the grizzlies. But the two groups, the River Valley and High Country packs, are just as easily and productively viewed from the outdoors viewing deck. And, thanks to the floor-to-ceiling windows of the new Naturalist Cabin, kids as well as adults can be safely mesmerized by the wolves. The recently added Birds of Prey exhibit will also hold visitors rapt, as staff introduce avian residents from the hawk, falcon, owl, and eagle families. There is a lot to take in and, because passes to the center are good for two consecutive days, visitors often return, as if to confirm the reality and proximity of these vibrant animals. The GWDC is American Zoo and Aquarium Association certified, a much-prized and hard-earned endorsement. A visit to the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center will easily win over the hearts and minds of visitors of any age. For more information, call the GWDC at 800-257-2570 or go online its site: www.grizzlydiscoveryctr.org. — Mike Calabrese Photo courtesy Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center
Nothing can prepare visitors to West Yellowstone’s Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center (GWDC) for the startling, up-close experience of viewing these epic, almost mythic, animals. The regal pelage and majesty of grizzlies and the haunting, intelligent eyes of gray wolves are breathtaking, even in this carefully controlled and maintained habitat. A visit to this center can be every bit as moving and educational as a journey through the park itself, especially for folks who never venture away from cars or campgrounds. The not-for-profit Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center, also host to a first-class educational exhibit center and theater, is the last stop for some of nature’s most recognizable and yet most threatened creatures. But it should be a first-stop for visitors to the park. All of the center’s grizzlies were otherwise doomed, thanks in no small part to their unfortunate adjustment to, or run-ins with, humans. Foolish interactions – like feeding them – or the misguided killing of One of the center’s grizzlies, massive and healthy. predatory sows by ranchers, put these bears on a path toward certain destruction. The phrase plished outdoorsmen will find the exhibit area’s “a fed bear is a dead bear” is not empty rhetoric. interactive stations intriguing and challenging. Watching these massive ursine mammals (the Opened in 1993 as “Bears: Imagination and Reality,” the center compellingly draws visitors playful Sam tips the scales at 1,000 pounds) tusinto the world of bruins, both “real and imagi- sle with each other or rummage for food hidden nary.” The 25 taxidermic specimens highlight the throughout the habitat by both the center’s staff richly diverse coloration of grizzlies and the awe- and visiting kids, reveals behavior that few park inspiring girth of the polar bear. Even accom- visitors ever witness. Seeing Illie actually snatch
Photo courtesy Northern Arapaho Experience
The Northern Arapaho Experience
Native American boy performs traditional dance.
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The Northern Arapaho Experience is a live exhibit celebrating the rich culture and heritage that is still practiced by the Arapaho people. Through singing, dancing, and storytelling the Arapaho people share their unique story with travelers from near and far. The Northern Arapaho tribe is located on the Wind River Indian Reservation in central Wyoming. All summer long, visitors can step into this world every Tuesday and Thursday at 6 p.m. at the Wind River Casino. Arapaho historical oral traditions continue today through songs and storytelling. Some of the songs are hundreds of years old and have been passed down from one generation to the next. Many of the contemporary songs capture the emotions of today’s Arapaho people and their unique view on life, love, and pride. Storytelling has always played an important role in Arapaho history. Stories were told to help nurture young Arapaho people to be kind, considerate, and humble. A portion of the show includes different
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styles of dance that Arapaho men and women continue to practice today. Fancy, grass, and traditional are styles of dance that both men and young boys perform. Women and young girls dance in the jingle, traditional, and fancy styles. The regalia is designed by each dancer and is made up of intricate beadwork designs. Each dancer takes ownership of their regalia and dance performance. These types of dancing are seen at social events known as powwows and held throughout Indian Country. The Northern Arapaho Experience offers visitors a glimpse into the rich world of the Arapaho people. Locals participate in the presentations and take pride in sharing the culture. Since 2007, The Wind River Casino has been a proud sponsor and host of the Northern Arapaho Experience. Join us for these free performances every Tuesday and Thursday at 6 p.m. this summer at the Wind River Casino, located south of Riverton. Call for more information at 1-866-657-1604. — Northern Arapaho Experience
Photo courtesy Michael P. Flaherty
Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center
Bighorn sheep in the wild near Dubois
Powerful and nimble, even at 250 to 300 pounds, Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep tread crags and rocky trails like no other creatures on earth. Few mammals can match them for their sure-footedness. But the survival of these magnificent animals is threatened all over the West. Fortunately, their beauty and tenuous existence have been showcased graphically and elegantly in the National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center, right in downtown Dubois, Wyoming. Stunning, full-size bighorns—set amidst their natural flora and geology—lend to the center a breathtaking realism. Photos and hands-on exhibits draw visitors into the majestic range and habits of these powerful animals. Set aside some time for the kids to take in the center’s engaging interactive displays and information. Dubois, of course, hosts this interpretive center for good reason: nearby Whiskey Mountain is home to the largest wintering herd of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep in North America. And, during winter, the staff offers fully guided tours to the snowy habitat. The center’s website also accesses a biologist’s journal describing the sheep’s slow recovery from the population “crash” of 1990. Located right on the main street of Dubois (which just happens to be Wyoming Highway 287/26), the National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center is open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. during the summer. Admission fees are $2.50 for adults and $6 for families. For more information, call toll free (888) 209-2795, go on-line at www.bighorn.org, or e-mail the center at info@bighorn.org. — Mike Calabrese w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
Summer Hours: 9 a.m. — 7 p.m. 907 W. Ramshorn Street Dubois, Wyoming 307-455-3429 www.bighorn.org email : info@bighorn.org
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PARAGLIDING Soaring beyond the old record
C
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To fly long distances, paragliding pilots must look for clues to solve the riddle of thermal lift.
Jon Hunt flies over Mt. Leidy (en route to Crow Heart), with Jackson Lake and the Teton Range on the skyline.
John Patterson reaches cloud base in the Tetons.
skies behind him. The two parties lost visual contact after that, each focusing on their eastward objective. At the end of the day, Hunt reached Riverton while Riggs landed 20 miles out in the remote prairie. Eventually the three rejoined for a ride home. “I called our friend, Nick Greece, and he drove over and picked the three of us up,” recalls Hunt, speaking of another top-ranked pilot who six years ago moved to Jackson Hole because of its thriving flying community. Last summer Greece distinguished himself as North American Champion at the Paragliding World Cup in Roldanillo, Columbia, placing 7th overall in the 130-person event. To fly long distances, paragliding pilots must
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look for clues to solve the riddle of thermal lift. “When close to the ground,” says Hunt, “you look at the terrain to find where heat is wicking off, mountains that are shaped just right to catch lots of sun in protected places. At the bottom of a thermal you can feel the air drawing in from all directions. You’ll feel your speed increase, feel it pulling you in the right direction. Stay in that, and it will draw you up to cloud base.” Once the pilots are over halfway between the ground and cloud base, they stop looking at features on the ground. “You don’t have to worry where the lift is coming from anymore,” says Hunt. “You just look where it’s going and you’ll start going there, too.” When they reach cloud base, usually at about 18,000 feet – the legal altitude limit imposed on paragliding by the FAA – they work upwind and look for the downwind shot to the next cloud. “It’s like swimming downriver,” said Hunt. “At that point you want to stay up high and connect cloud to cloud.” All clouds, of course, are not created equal. And even the ideal cumulous variety have an optimal growth phase for pilots seeking lift. Timing is everything. Pilots look for developing cumulus clouds, at how big they’re getting, and how long it’s taking them to form. “You have to look where you’re going, to see when you want to go and how fast you want to get there,” Hildebrand points out. “It’s important to time your moves – never be behind or too early. If you time it right you can stay in the sweet spot.” Chip Hildebrand stayed in the sweet spot on his record day, all day long. — Teton Yellowstone Adventure Guide
Photos: John Patterson (top); Jon Hunt (below)
Chip Hildebrand could taste victory the night before he captured Wyoming’s paragliding distance record. “The weather had been setting up and setting up,” he says. “You could see it coming like waves on the ocean.” The next morning he told his boss, “I’m probably going to break the record today,” and secured an early leave. Then, at 1 p.m. on August 2, 2010, Hildebrand launched from Phillips Ridge above the town of Wilson and flew to Thermopolis, Wyoming, a straight-line distance of 137 miles. He’d broken the old record by 17 miles. “I’d been chasing that state record since my third year of flying,” says Hildebrand. A rookie pilot in 1996, he learned from local masters Jon Hunt, Tom Bartlett, and a “whole lot of ski patrollers.” Piloting paragliders became a passion, as it commonly does. Often flying with Hunt, he soon realized how much distance could be traveled. “We’re the same kind of pilot,” Hildebrand observes. “We like to go high and we like to go far.” Hildebrand soon jumped into the distance game. “When I started flying, the distance record was 60 miles,” he notes. “Jon Hunt and John Patterson kept upping it every year or so, 20 more miles, 30 more miles, and eventually they set it at over a hundred.” In 2008 another Jackson Hole pilot, Josh Riggs, finally made it to Lander, Wyoming, the town these pilots had been targeting for a over a decade, extending the mark to120 miles. “I just kept chasing these guys. I wanted that state record,” says Hildebrand. He dedicated years in preparation for the attempt, including a couple summers “basically not working.” It paid off – and this time it was Hunt and Riggs who were chasing Hildebrand. Commercial pilots for Jackson Hole Paragliding, their tandem flights had kept them occupied until past noon when they raced to Phillips and launched a scant but critical 45 minutes after Hildebrand. “We have a short launch window,” says Hildebrand, “especially at Phillips: between 12:30 and 1:15.” Hunt spotted his protégé flying high above Sleeping Indian just as he and Riggs were almost forced to land. “We flew across the valley but then got really low. Josh was only 50 feet over the hillside. We lucked out, though, got a thermal and got out of there together. Josh really had to crank and bank.” As Hunt and Riggs flew over the remote Gros Ventre range they sighted Hildebrand again, who likewise spotted his two friends in the western
Risks to Nature Ah Yellowstone. Pristine. Unchanged — since yesterday.
Photos: Bob Woodall
By Bert Raynes You’ve arrived. You’ve entered Yellowstone National Park. The fabled, renowned first-nationalpark-in-the-world. There it is, Yellowstone, just as it has been for 15,000 years, since the last Ice Age. Untouched, pristine, unchanging, permanent. Hardly. Yellowstone is a living organism – as are all the surfaces of Earth – and thus in constant change. The region sits atop a plume of molten magma over which the North American tectonic plate Visitors and photographers can’t resist Yellowstone’s Grand Prismatic Spring. moves to the southwest at about an inch a year. Geologic history tells of many early volcanic erup- than a century will be needed to return to vigorous inadvertent introduction of invasive mussels arriving on gear used by out-of-area anglers and tions; others are inevitable. Yellowstone’s climate mature forest, changing almost every day. Fire. Natural fires, lightning caused, are frequent recreationists. Efforts to stop the unwanted ecochanges periodically. Fire alters forests and open spaces periodically. Insects can affect vast areas of in warm seasons. Man-caused fires are infrequent, logical change in Yellowstone will be noticeable to trees and plants. Ungulate population cycles in- but can occur. Recovery from the fires of 1988, visitors in season. Animals. In nature, animal populations will fluence both habitat and also predator numbers. which affected many zones of Yellowstone, can be cycle, sometimes abruptly, sometimes with regularWhat looks superficially to be unruffled and con- noticed, as plants return. Many remnants remain. Climate change. Changes in climate affect the ity. In the last 15 years, wolves have been reintrostant is actually pulsating with activity. In fact, should you be of a mind to dwell on all planet: Yellowstone isn’t exempt. Evidence is nec- duced after having been eradicated from of the vectors that can alter your vision of and ex- essarily obtained gradually – a loss of some animal Yellowstone about 90 years prior. Wolves have become one of two top predators in the perience in Yellowstone National Park ecosystem (grizzly bears are the and its surrounds, and at the risk of other) and the entire ecosystem has putting a damper on your visit, one been affected. It has not achieved an could enumerate many of the risks to equilibrium and is in constant, if this day’s and the future’s scene. largely unseen, flux. Curious? Humans. But let’s face it. The OK. Here are just some of the biggest change factor in Yellownatural and man-made agents of stone is man, particularly 21st Cenchange affecting Yellowstone contury man. So-called civilized man. stantly and inevitably: You and me with our numbers in Geology. Yellowstone is primathe millions, with our motorized rily a large caldera, a depression in vehicles and demands for roads and the earth left following a volcanic amenities, with our inevitable preseruption 1.2 million years ago. Unsure on limited resources. derground, a “hot spot” of molten You’re in Yellowstone country magma remains; the earth above reon vacation, to see the natural wonsponds, shifting and oscillating. As ders, perhaps to learn. Certainly not one result, Yellowstone experiences to cause harm. Yet, inevitably, you daily swarms of minor earthquakes. will alter the environment. Nature Occasionally the quakes affect these Massive forest fires often create their own weather and clouds. will try to repair herself, given time. surface manifestations, the thermal features. The occasional larger earthquake affects species or a change in its population or vigor. Sub- Take notice and be kind. tle, but already in evidence in Yellowstone. Enviman-made structures and infrastructures. Bert Raynes writes a weekly column in the Insects. Small instruments of major change. ronmental biologists are busily identifying them: Jackson Hole News & Guide. He has penned Yellowstone (indeed huge areas of the Northwest) animal behavior, plant distribution. Even average four publications covering the birds and aniis under attack presently by an irruption of pine dates of phenological phenomena. mals of Grand Teton and Yellowstone national Aquatics. The introduction in the past of non- parks. His two favorite books, Valley So Sweet bark beetles. Look carefully at vast reaches of Yellowstone’s forests and marvel at the innumerable native fish threatens native species, requiring and Curmudgeon Chronicles, have received beetle-killed trees. They are likely ultimately to changes in fish management in the park and has well-deserved, wide acclaim. Bert’s latest burn in substantial entire forest fires, or to simply affected those animals that have evolved to prey book, Birds of Sage and Scree with Greg fall to earth and slowly decay before a new, differ- on native species. Also, underwater and seldom McHuron, has just been released. ent succession of plant growth. Whichever, more noticed, until recently, a new threat results from w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
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HIKING E
Some of my favorite places
by Becky Woods
xperiencing the landscape of Greater Yellowstone from inside your vehicle is akin to window-shopping: it only offers a glimpse of the treasures that wait within. Incomparable scenic vistas, wildflowers, and wildlife lie beyond the asphalt. Put on your walking shoes and hit the dirt on the favored trails suggested below. They won’t disappoint. Grand Teton National Park
Photos, from top left: Wade McKoy (2); Wade McKoy courtesy Wilderness Ventures
Begin your park exploration at the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center in Moose. A free orientation film, exhibits, helpful staff, and a selection of maps and guidebooks will enrich your time spent in the Tetons. Fill your water bottle and head down the inner park road to the turnout for String Lake at North Jenny Lake Junction. The signed Leigh Lake Trail begins at the north end of String Lake parking area. This pleasantly wooded path parallels first String, then Leigh Lake – framed by the best close-up views of Mount Moran in the park. If this spectacular hike whets your appetite for more (and it will!) check out the Lake Creek/Woodland Trail Loop in Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve or the perennial favorite trail to Hidden Falls departing from the South Jenny Lake parking area. An early start is recommended for both these justly popular trails, to secure both parking and relative solitude.
Jackson and Teton Village Visitors lodging in the town of Jackson or Teton Village will find rewarding hiking in their respective “backyard” ski areas. A network of trails honeycombs the summit and base of Snow King Mountain in Jackson; download a free map at friendsofpathways.org/resources. Riding the chair lift to the summit of Snow King and hiking 1.8-miles down to the base is a popular op-
This pleasantly wooded path parallels first String, then Leigh Lake – framed by the best close-up views of Mount Moran in the park.
tion. The panoramic view showcases Jackson and the five mountain ranges surrounding this mountain town. The tram ride to the summit of 10,400-foot Rendezvous Peak in Teton Village instantly transports you to the alpine zone and tremendous views
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Cascade Canyon, Grand Teton National Park. Peaks from left: Teewinot, the Grand, Mt. Owen
of the Gros Ventre Range enclosing the east side of Jackson Hole. Set off on the Top of the World Trail to the Cody Bowl Spur Trail and Green River Overlook for views of the Tetons and the valley floor far below. Double-back, or continue of the Rock Springs Trail to the Summit Trail to complete the memorable 4.2-mile Cody Bowl/ Rock Springs Loop. Trail maps are available at jacksonhole.com.
Yellowstone The nation’s first national park deserves a lifetime of exploration. Assuming your vacation isn’t quite that long, one has to be selective. Luckily, some of the best short hikes in the park bring you
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up-close-and-personal with its major attractions. Cerulean blue Grand Prismatic Spring – the world’s largest known hot spring – commands attention as you near Old Faithful. Dubbed the “Earth’s Eye,” it can be reached via the boardwalk at Midway Geyser Basin. Check the geyser eruption schedule at the Old Faithful Visitor’s Center when you arrive: if you’re lucky, you’ll be able to hike to impressive Castle Geyser to witness it spout off, an event that only occurs twice a day. Elephant Back Loop Trail, south of Fishing Bridge, offers an elevated view of Yellowstone Lake backed by Mt. Sheridan, snow-capped well into summer. Trails to the bottom of thundering Tower Falls and
Hardy wildflowers flourish in the rarified air and high alpine tundra of 10,000 feet.
through the terraces at Mammoth Hot Springs both earn spots on the don’t-miss list. This author’s personal favorite, however, is Uncle Tom’s Trail at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. This path, the oldest in the park, drops into the canyon for so-close-you-get-wet views of 308-foot Lower Falls. Early park visitors held onto a knotted rope to make the steep descent. Today’s visitors hike on open-mesh, steel steps. Inexpensive trail maps can be purchased at various visitor centers or downloaded in advance at www.yellowstone-natlpark.com/maps.htm.
Pinedale Pinedale is the portal to the Wind River Range, arguably the best backpacking range in the lower
Grand Targhee/Teton Valley The west slope of the Teton Range lies predominantly in Wyoming, but is accessed through Idaho’s Teton Valley. “Wydaho” Yellowstone’s thermal features highlight surreal park hikes. boasts spectacular hiking. The level hike up South Teton Canyon provides a 48 and home to 15 of Wyoming’s 16 highest peaks. world-class warm-up before moving on to knock- Day hikers will want to check out Green River your-socks off views at Grand Targhee Ski Resort. Lakes. These comely bodies of water attract caThe new Bannock Trail skirts the lip of South noeists and anglers and provide reflecting pools Leigh Canyon as it climbs to the top of Fred’s for impressive Squaretop Mountain, an oft-phoMountain. Outstanding wildflowers and views tographed Wyoming landmark as recognizable as the Grand Teton. An attainable panorama of the make it the trail of choice. Winds’ high peaks is found at Photographer’s w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
Point. The trail begins at Elkhart Park, located at the end of Fremont Lake Road.
Cody The heart of the Old West and eastern gateway town to Yellowstone, Cody’s charm is multifaceted. Both the Paul Stock Natural Trail and the Shoshone Riverway parallel the Shoshone River, offering a kid- and petfriendly means to stretch your legs and perhaps sight waterfowl and wildlife. Inquire locally for directions. More adventurous is a hike and easy scramble to the top of Heart Mountain, located equidistant between Cody and Powell off Hwy. 14. This geologic anomaly rises above the sage, its 8,123foot summit offering a scenic peek into Big Horn Basin. Explore remnants of the Heart Mountain Camp at the conclusion of your outing. A WWII Japanese internment camp, it’s a state historic site under consideration for national park status. Rebecca Woods has penned numerous highly regarded guidebooks to the Greater Yellowstone region, including Jackson Hole Hikes, Targhee Trails, and Beyond the Tetons.
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FISHING D
Water on the brain
By Mike Calabrese
espite a nearly 50-year phobia of water, I find myself assigned to writing a piece on fishing. Money makes the world go round. It also pays for what is now my feverish and ironic devotion to water. More accurately, fly fishing in that water. So the age of miracles is not dead. Few clerics will celebrate my conversion, though, because I now spend even Sundays plying rivers. Blame my best friend for this. Undaunted by either my ignorance or my reluctance to even approach a river, he one day 10 years ago coaxed me onto his raft. Not surprisingly, the raft was on water, the celebrated Snake River. At low levels, the Snake is lovely – crystal clear, babbling, charming, occasionally even chatty. At high levels, the turbid
Clear waters give anglers, and fish, good views of one another. Patience and stealth pay off.
Landing a feisty Snake River spotted cutthroat takes practice.
Snake bellows and tosses rafts, dories, and unlucky anglers around like farts in a hurricane. Not a waterway to be taken lightly. My wife and he had conspired earlier to goad me into picking up my fly rod, which had lain dormant in my garage for nearly 30 years, mostly because of its obvious connection to all things water.(Did I mention my grave disaffection for water?) Patiently he guided, prodded, encouraged – and doubtless held his breath – while I chucked line and barbed fly around, often perilously close to his $5,000 piece of rubber and, more significantly, his head. At times I managed to hit the
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The author casts for cutthroat, his companions safe from the backcast.
water with my fly. Now that I think of it, he’s either the truest of friends or a tad masochistic. Dropping anchor at some of the Snake’s lowwater gravel bars, he spent time shaping my casting and teaching me to read the water. The water wasn’t very revealing, and although it generally demurred, it wasn’t altogether mute. I hooked a few fish, and landed even fewer. But the tug, as they say, was the drug. Few moments in sport are as pivotal as a new angler’s precarious connection to a hooked fish. We were all (my wife, a non-angler at the time, had accompanied us) safer on that gravel bar than on the water itself. Casting from a raft or boat re-
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quires skill, from both the angler and whoever’s at the oars. For the more advanced fly fisher, there is access to plentiful good water and, thereby, more fish, especially on Western rivers like the Snake. For the novice, casting from a moving craft poses challenges. It’s bit like trying to juggle while riding a bike. Errant hooks, of course, add an unwelcome element of danger. I now use only barbless or crimped hooks. I can vouch for the assurance of their easy (although not always painless) removal. Seems reasonable, too, that the fish would appreciate the absence of those barbs. The instruments of angling, though, the rods
Photos, from top left: Wade McKoy (3); Bob Woodall
and reels, are things of true beauty and efficiency – and power – even in the hands of klutzes. Somewhat as with rifles, although lacking the element of lethality. I’ve hunted, too. I prefer fly rods. Even when employed poorly, I’d risk a fly rod in the mitts of a clumsy companion over a 7mm mag. Same thing for golf clubs. But, despite, their vi-
or may not work well. (I’ve yet to cull my assortment, even after 10 years.) Fly fishing, like hunting and golf, also contends with weather, which can beautifully color a day on the water. Brilliant midday sunlight on the Madison River’s endless riffles; bracing, mist-filled early mornings on Yellowstone’s mysterious Firehole River; sublime dead-still evenings on Idaho’s Henry’s Fork, where dusk settles slowly, drenched in hues so subtle and breathtaking that naming them is impossible. But weather in mountain country is also capricious. The bliss of balmy, breeze-gilded afternoons can be ransacked by frightening storms, some almost biblical in their ferocity.
There is clothing for all of this, however – not exactly swaddling or, for that matter, inexpensive. Much of it redounds to Mr. Gore (of Tex fame, not of global-warming notoriety). Here, too, I’ve acquired a vast amount of it, but have put all of it to good use, and often. At the risk of offending the less devout, another reference to items biblical: insects. The preferred meal of trout, insects can be both a blessing and a curse (but only a soft oath). When a hatch of caddis or blue-winged olives covers the waters and the angler, it’s almost a blessing. Other hatches, mosquitoes for example, are simply pestilential. Pretty much under any conditions. But especially during early and late evening calm, when all of nature’s
Release fish quickly and gently.
sual appeal and use of similar high-tech graphite composites, golf clubs seem almost expendable to some. I’ve seen apoplectic players launch clubs, even bags, into ponds, down fairways, and at fellow golfers – usually a companion whose gift for goading was little protection against another’s volcanic temper. Honestly, I’ve never known an angler to toss his rod and reel in a fit of pique – at either fish or friend. Golfers and anglers do share one tendency. They both lie. And not very well, frankly. Especially in the early stages of taking up either sport. Artfulness in regaling others with mendacious and
I now use only barbless or
crimped hooks. I can vouch
for the assurance of their easy
(although not always painless) removal. Seems reasonable, too, that the fish would
appreciate the absence of those barbs.
epic tales of conquest comes with experience. (That would be another story. I’d need to brush up on my artifice.) And yes, angling, like golf, is dear – and gear-intensive: waders, rods, reels, sunglasses (the type sported by Brad or Angelina for a trip to the market are especially popular among the well-heeled), vest or pack, boots, wading staff, and of course a half-dozen fly boxes replete with an ever-growing collection of artificials that may w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
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beauty, bounty, and opportunity bathe the grateful fly fisher like a gift from some deity. These competing conditions can seem fiendish to some. The well-documented persistence of devoted anglers under assault from the devil’s contribution (that would be the mosquitoes) can be heart rending – or staggeringly stupid. If fish are rising, either sentiment is completely irrelevant. Fortunately, fly fishing doesn’t require genius. Genus, yes, maybe even genies. Baetis (pronounced bait us – see above section on lying), Ephemerella, Paraleptophlebia, Hydropsyche, Pteronarcys, Isoperla are only several whose imitations the fly-fishing entomologist will reach for. The observant lay angler will instead plunder his box for blue-winged olives, PMDs, caddis, stone-
The Complete Resource For All of Your Fly Fishing Needs in Jackson Hole.
The instruments of angling,
though, the rods and reels, are things of true beauty and
efficiency – and power – even in the hands of klutzes.
flies, yellow sallies and such. Trout, although untutored in the naming of any of these bugs, nonetheless consume them with great abandon. It’s a matter of faith for all concerned. Finally, there are the fish themselves, some of nature’s most beautiful and perfectly evolved creations. The major representatives: Prosopium williamsoni (whitefish), Salvelinus fontinalis (brookie), Salmo trutta (brown trout – these can reach monster dimensions and are often described employing techniques alluded to in the above section on lying), Onchorhyncus mykiss (rainbows – and yes, I have bussed these on occasion, especially when there was no need to resort to artifice – again, refer to the section on lying), and the real
beauties, the ones indigenous to our little valley, Onchorhyncus clarki ssp, the fine-spotted cutthroat. These take on true importance, especially when recounting their apprehension (see again above section on lying). Rounding out the assortment is Onchorhyncus clarki bouvieri (Yellowstone cutthroat – and unrelated to that late paparrazi-hounded icon of American royalty). Now, one final note. Fly fishing with a companion or two yields the greatest pleasures, both during and afterwards. My friend’s tutelage has more than paid off for both of us. There are dangers, though. About six or seven years ago, I teased my wife into the fly-fishing arena. It was a mixed blessing. I never have to resort to long-winded excuses for heading off in search of trout, since she herself is now completely addicted to the sport. But come late October, when winter’s chill and early season snows prick at us, dragging her off the river is like trying to steer a drug addict toward a methadone clinic. Have I mentioned that tug and drug thing? Mike Calabrese is a musician, editor, and writer living in Jackson Hole.
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Racing across the wild natural resources of North America, a horrifying invasion of aquatic nuisance and invasive species is creating environmental destruction. Rapidly growing aquarium weeds thoughtlessly discarded into local waterways – as well as dozens of exotic shellfish, snail, and fish species that have arrived and have been poured mostly into the Great Lakes as foreign shipping ballast – are choking out native species. Recreational boaters, hikers, canoeists, kayakers, hunters, rafters, and campers can unknowingly pick up and relocate everything from the tiny New Zealand mud snail, zebra and quagga mussels to strands of Eurasian milfoil, hydrilla and water hyacinth aquatic grasses and hundreds of other invasives. A growing number of western states that have
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lagged behind in education, prevention, and legal prohibition dealing with these deadly aquatic nuisance species are now moving ahead quickly with new programs. Idaho and Wyoming are the latest entrants and join Arizona, Utah, Colorado, and Montana. Before launching any watercraft, clean, inspect, and dry equipment that is wet from previous trips. Scrub wading boots, Aqua Sox, and wader gear. Put watercraft, trailers, ropes, and anchors through approved hot-water power washes. Check each planned travel state for its requirements. Internet web sites for state game and fish departments have the latest information to stop aquatic invasives. For more info on Wyoming regulations: www.gf.state.wy.us/fish/AIS/Decal. MC2011 — Paul Bruun
RAFTING
White-water and scenic float trips top vacation adventures
T
he Snake River rushes down the canyon south of Jackson Hole in grand style: rapids, eddies, lazy runs and riffles, deep-green pools, and always more rapids. River runners call it the finest one-day introduction to white-water rafting in the country. The rapids of Lunch Counter, Big Kahuna, Rope, and Champagne offer plenty of proof for that claim. “It’s a nice, family-oriented river, a Class III, not white-knuckle stuff,� says Charlie Sands, who’s been rafting the Snake and other western rivers for the past 47 years. “It’s the same experience now that it was in the 1960s.� That quality should remain intact for future generations since, two years ago, the Snake River was designated a National
Photos: Bob Woodall (right); Wade McKoy (left)
. t on a river ter ride, bu A roller coas
Wild and Scenic River. At long last, special sections of the river – including those running through the canyon and Grand Teton National Park – and over a dozen of its tributaries are under federal protection (see snakeriverfund.org). The river’s nature – big and high-volume – presents rafters with large waves that lack the inherent and dangerous obstacles that would require technical maneuvers to avoid. KC Bess, 10-year Mad River boatman, says, “You can take anyone, from grandparents to kids, and have a good time getting wet and experiencing the excitement of hitting the bigger waves.� Seasoned river boatmen know that excitement well. There is a golden moment, just as the raft enters the smooth, slick tongue of a big rapid, when time stands still and the world is quiet despite the surrounding chaos. Boatmen relish, too, the river’s changes throughout the seasons. “The most notable time is spring runoff,� says Bess. “The river gets up to its higher levels and even the guides get butterflies. Everybody is buzzing. I enjoy late summer too. It’s warmer and w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
the evening light on the water is just amazing. People can really enjoy each other’s company in that setting.� The two companies also offer scenic float trips on an especially peaceful section of river, Wilson Bridge to South Park. “We see more eagles there than on any other stretch of the river,� notes Sands. “People enjoy it. It’s a good way to spend a couple hours of your vacation.� Vacationers in Jackson Hole typically seek some kind of outdoor experience. A float trip provides that in a wild, yet peaceful setting, as witnessed by Mad River boatman Gray Hamlin. “They feel on their own, going down the river with nothing but nature around them,� he says. “It’s quiet down in the canyon. The only thing you hear is the churning white water.� Scenic sections are quiet, too, the tranquility further enhanced by wildness and wild creatures: eagles, ospreys, elk, river otters, goats, beaver, an occasional moose or bear, and ducks unlimited. The animals are just Lunch Counter rapid does n’t disappoi nt. as plentiful and the water just as pure as it was Anyalmost 50 years ago when Charlie Sands caught one who wants to sit back, relax, and the river-running bug. stay dry. In that half-century, the biggest change Sands Young or old, wet or dry, once a river rafter, alsees is improved equipment. ways a river rafter. “Originally we all ran oar boats, which I still “What really impresses me are our wonderful prefer,� he says. “Now we also have paddle boats, returnees,� says Sands. “I had a guy last year that’s which give people a sense of participation.� Pad- been with me for over 30 years. Now he’s bringing dle boaters get wetter, too, the smaller pontoons grandchildren upon grandchildren. He comes in more easily washed over by waves. every year and says, “Good to see you, Charlie, I The broad range of equipment helps floaters had a nice trip.� enjoy the Snake’s white-water and scenic sections. The Snake River is one of those special places “Customers can choose,� Hamlin says, “Laid back where Mother Nature looks the same as she did to and more comfortable, or the rush of going down the pioneers, and generations upon generations of the rapids.� Young children and old folks, all ages people continue to enjoy her wildness. for that matter, especially enjoy the scenic section. — Teton Yellowstone Adventure Guide
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SEAKAYAKING
Touring Wyoming’s Alpine Lakes
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its size with 136 square miles lapping against 110 miles of shoreline. Boaters can test these waters safely with a day-paddle along the wind-protected shore in West Thumb. Those seeking a bigger commitslung seat sets her eyes close to the water ment can reserve one or more backcountry and she imagines herself a pelican in flight, campsites for a life-altering, multi-day tour skimming the surface, wing tips brushing into the pristine outback. The best of both ripples onto the mirror-pond smoothness. worlds, though, can be secured by hiring a All is quiet, broken only by the sounds of round-trip motorboat shuttle from Bridge her breathing, her heart beating, and the Bay to the Southeast Arm. Camp a few days faint gurgle of still waters cut by paddle and in this most remote portion of Yellowstone kayak. Morning alpenglow paints the Lake, where motors are forbidden, bears are snow-capped peaks, the sunbeams slowly numerous, and paddling back to civilization reaching her, too, with their warm embrace. would take days. She drifts, dips the paddle, strokes, and Boat and backcountry campsite percoasts on the crystalline snowmelt waters. mits can be obtained at the South EnShoreline bottoms reveal themselves with trance. Inquire at other entrances for the trout-spotting clarity, then drop away into nearest permitting station. a darkness penetrated by bright sunbeams, Designed to travel on rough waters, the white-hot arrows shooting into the bluesea kayak’s low-profile bow, closed deck, green depths. and spray skirt help keep the craft upright Dense lodgepole forests both hide and and dry in wind and waves. And while sometimes reveal their natural residents. At some boaters rejoice in paddling through times, she has been especially fortunate, a the raw, stormy froth, those who prefer a witness to the sources of aptly named landsmooth-water experience can find solace scape: bear tracks on the shores of Bearpaw in knowing the boat can take it if the wind Bay, for instance, or elk on Elk Island. She’s comes up unexpectedly. paddled alongside a young black bear swim- Moran Bay, Jackson Lake However, if a boater does capsize in ming across a channel, and has watched The low-slung seat sets her eyes close to the water and she cold water, self-rescue must be executed hundreds of sandhill cranes gather and imagines herself a pelican in flight, skimming the surface, wing quickly, or death by exposure may result. prance on a massive sand bar at dusk. DurExceptions include a few weeks in July and tips brushing ripples onto the mirror-pond smoothness. ing one journey she coasted closely past a August (or one week, or none), when water giant golden eagle that sat undisturbed and contin- size in 1911, its dam constructed to provide irri- temperatures may warm sufficiently for swimued pulling apart a succulent cutthroat trout. She’s gation waters for Idaho farmers. The lake’s nu- ming. Stay within 50 yards of the shoreline while heard a wolf howl – or so she thinks, with no one merous put-ins afford a variety of day-trip options circumnavigating these cold alpine lakes. If openelse present to confirm it – and even spied one of for paddling abreast the dreamlike Tetons. Boaters water crossings are desired, make sure to hire a prepared to camp can choose from among a dozen guide and/or practice using self-rescue equipment the lanky canines trotting along the shore. When she leaves these alpine lakes of Jackson backcountry campsites, placing early morning that makes it possible to get back in the boat if you Hole and Yellowstone for another year, her day- paddling at their doorsteps and star-lit, nighttime fall out. dreams, rich with these splendid images, sustain skies overhead. Permits for boats and backcounLandscape, animals, and the alpine waters of try campsites can be obtained at Grand Teton Na- this region, though infinitely arresting, are at bother until her return. tional Park’s visitor center in Moose. tom still wild – and challenging to take in. Sea Access & Resources Yellowstone Lake, far more remote yet still an kayaks help more than a few visitors manage that Jackson Lake’s 40 square miles of water also ac- easy two-hour drive from Jackson, is raw wilder- journey into that wildness. company an abundance of shoreline to explore. ness. At 7,732 feet above sea level, it’s a thousand — Teton Yellowstone Adventure Guide The ancient, glacier-carved lake grew to its present feet higher than Jackson Lake and over three times
Yellowstone Lake’s Southeast Arm
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Photos: Bob Woodall (Yellowstone Lake); Wade McKoy (Jackson Lake)
he paddle feels feather-light in her hands, each easy stroke propelling the kayak forward. The low-
BOATING ACCESS
OVERNIGHT KAYAK TOURS ON JACKSON LAKE
Photo: Wade McKoy
“I would trade a dozen nights in a 4-star hotel for one more night on Jackson Lake.”
Windsurfing on Slide Lake in the Gros Ventre Mountains above Kelly, Wyoming
Grand Teton National Park Boating is restricted to non-motorized craft, except on Jackson and Jenny lakes, where motorboats (10 hp or less on Jenny Lake) are allowed. But leave the jet skis home! Launches along the Snake River access a variety of waters, some dangerous, all beautiful. Life preservers and boat permits are required, and rangers patrol very effectively for enforcement. Info: (307) 739-3399. Canoes, pontoon boats, and small powerboats can be rented at Signal Mountain or Colter Bay marinas on Jackson Lake. Boaters will have to register their craft at the Moose Visitors’ Center, where more information is available in the country’s newest and coolest visitors’ center. Naturally, a host of floating, fishing, kayaking, canoeing, sailboating, and scenic concessionaires operate by permit within the park, all researched by going online at www.nps.gov/grte.
Bridger-Teton National Forest Class III and IV white water on the Snake River begins at West Table and runs eight miles through the Snake River Canyon. Self-registration, while not required, is available at West Table. Permits are required. Scenic float waters that also hold sport fish include the South Fork of the Snake. On the Web: www.snakeriverfund.org. Info: (307) 734-6773. Other rivers in the area offer everything from serene scenery to challenging rapids. On the Web: www.fs.fed.us/r4/btnf. Everything you wanted to know about recreating on regional and national federal land. Or call (307) 739-5500 for information on running the Buffalo Fork, Gros Ventre, Hoback, or Greys rivers. Other lakes in the area: Slide Lake, east of Jackson (windsurfing, sailboats, paddle craft); Palisades Reservoir at Alpine Junction (power and sailboats).
Yellowstone National Park In Yellowstone National Park, motorboats, canoes, rowboats, kayaks, sailboats, and windw w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
surfers are allowed on Yellowstone and Lewis lakes, but only paddle boats on Shoshone Lake. Again, leave the jet skis home! All other rivers and lakes are closed to boaters. Life preservers and permits are required. Boats can be rented at Bridge Bay Marina. Online: www.nps.gov/yell. Info: (307) 344-7381.
West of Yellowstone West of the park, the Madison River provides white water from Ennis Reservoir through Bear Trap Canyon and idyllic (although there’s nothing idyllic about the Bear Trap section) floating to its confluence with the Missouri River. Info: (406) 683-3900.
Green River & Pinedale Area The Green River between Pinedale and Big Piney is primarily utilized for fishing. For information, go to www.blm.gov/wy and pull up a cool map of every BLM field office and district in the state. Just point and click. The short story: Fremont (scads of opportunities and amenities here) and Half Moon lakes, near Pinedale, allow paddle craft and power and sailboats; and Green River Lakes, north of Cora, allow paddle craft only. Pinedale field office: 307-367-5300 or the Pinedale Boat Club, 307-367-2422, for info on a ton of summer boating fun.
Cody & the North Fork In Cody, river runners can catch Class III rapids on the North Fork of the Shoshone River from Yellowstone Park to the reservoir, or combine placid water with Class IV rapids on the main Shoshone from the reservoir to just past town. River info: www.blm.gov/wy is the place to start. For hiking and camping info go to www.fs.fed.us/r2/shoshone/districts/windriver.htm or call (307) 578-5939. Water skiing, fishing, and windsurfing are enjoyed on the Buffalo Bill Reservoir, west of Cody. Info: (307) 587-9227 or online at www.bbdvc.com. —Teton Yellowstone Adventure Guide
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Photos: Wade McKoy (3); Bob Woodall (pathway)
BICYCLING
Building a masterpiece in pathway and trail systems
Some riders venture outside the buffed single-track trail system and into the domain of horsemen.
O
ver a hundred miles of dirt single-track and paved pathways, built over the past 17 years in Jackson Hole, Teton Valley, and the surrounding mountains, rank among America’s best collection of bike tours. Free maps at www.friendsofpathways.org/resources, a local nonprofit advocacy group, are also available at bike and outdoor shops, along with several good local guidebooks.
Paved Pathway Systems Jackson Hole Community Pathways receive widespread use by bicyclists, walkers, skaters, and other enthusiasts of non-motorized transportation and recreation. This ten-foot-wide asphalt byway shadows most of the valley’s highway miles, with sections connecting Wilson to Teton Village and Grand Teton National Park (GTNP), Jackson to its schools, trailheads, and outlying neighborhoods, including – new this summer – GTNP, and Moose to Jenny Lake in the park itself. Future pathways will connect these existing routes and expand the system north to Colter Bay
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and south to Hoback Junction. The section currently under construction and scheduled for completion this fall will make it possible to ride a bicycle on a non-motorized-use pathway from the town of Jackson to Jenny Lake in GTNP. “This is definitely a landmark,” says Tim Young, Friends of Pathways executive director. “The new section, with its Teton views, will be one-of-a-kind in the world.” By 2012, the remaining missing links will be either complete or under construction, rendering a pathway system that stretches from Hoback Junc-
“Within a couple years a core system of pathways in the greater Teton County area will be completed, connecting the entire Jackson Hole valley,” — Tim Young
tion to Jenny Lake (and eventually to Colter Bay), and from Jackson to Wilson and Teton Village. “Essentially, within a couple years a core system of pathways in the greater Teton County area will be completed, connecting the entire Jackson Hole valley,” says Young.
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Wide, winding, and plotted with biking in mind.
Jackson Hole Community Pathways
Banked turns, bermed in good dirt
Jackson Hole Community Pathways is the result of collaborative efforts from the Friends of Pathways and many other bike enthusiasts, including the Town of Jackson and the late Wyoming Senator Craig Thomas and the National Park Service. Teton County, Idaho, has not been left behind in the pathway movement. Built on an old railroad bed, the Driggs-Victor Pathway provides families a place to stroll, bike, and commute between these two towns. Avid road bikers use this pathway during long rides over Teton Pass to reach an excellent climb from Driggs up the scenic, low-angled Ski Hill Road to the Grand Targhee Resort.
Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks Biking in Grand Teton National Park reached new heights two years ago with the completion of the Grand Teton Pathway. The winding route follows the Teton Park Road from Dornan’s in Moose to Jenny Lake. In April, before the snow melts from the pathway, GTNP plows the Teton Park Road but keeps it closed to motorized travel for the first few weeks. This decades-long tradition is quite popular, especially on weekends, when hundreds of cyclists, walkers, and roller-blade skaters recreate on the car-free road. Yellowstone National Park follows suit, plowing the roads in April and allowing cyclists, but not cars, in. Check with the
individual parks for exact dates. Later in the season, safe biking opportunities in Yellowstone are limited; search out a few road spurs open only to cycling and walking, like Fountain Flat Drive between Madison Junction and Old Faithful. Ask for the secret map of 32 miles of old roads closed to motor vehicles.
Good Dirt When the first mountain bikes arrived in Jackson Hole in the early 1980s, local road cyclists enthusiastically peddled into the realm of hikers and horseback riders. They soon discovered that the best mountain biking was actually in Sun Valley,
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Trail users should not give up their sense of hearing: turn down those tunes so you can still hear other people coming... and the lions, moose, and bears that, rest assured, are out there, too. Road riding in the Gros Ventres
Idaho. Jackson Hole’s horse trails proved too steep. The national parks remained strictly off limits. Old logging and power-line roads weren’t bad bike routes, but they were few and far between. The popular Putt Putt trail in Cache Creek, however, hinted at the potential joys of single-track riding and it received loads of knobby-tire use. Bikers today, especially those locals who experienced the ragged 1980s, marvel at the quality and quantity of Jackson Hole’s single-track mountain bike trail systems. Last summer the newly completed Ridge Trail on Teton Pass wowed even the most worldly cyclists with its winding, banked descent into Phillips Canyon. These amazing trails are the result of a partnership between the Bridger-Teton National Forest, Friends of Pathways, and a variety of service organizations. The Teton Freedom Riders, a dedicated group of local mountain bikers, have played a critical role in designing and building the downhill-specific mountain bike trails in the Teton Pass area. They continue to log thousands of hours each summer buffing Jackson Hole mountain bike trails. Check out their unique story at tetonfreedomriders.org. Another group of volunteers, The Order of the Arrow, Boy Scouts of America, helped trim the Teton Pass Area construction timetable drastically a couple summers ago, building nearly 10 miles of new single-track (the Arrow Trail) in five
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The Greater Snow King Area in full summer bloom
days by committing 650 trail workers for one week in July 2008. Cyclists can ride from downtown Wilson up the paved Old Pass Road (non-motorized vehicles only, 2,000-plus-foot climb) to the top of 8,416foot Teton Pass. Downhill specialists often drive up the pass to the Phillips Canyon trailhead to access Jimmy’s Mom, a super fun and tech-y downhill-only trail. Either way, the ride options in the Teton Pass area are many, with the Arrow Trail, Sno-Tel, Phillips Ridge, and Phillips Canyon trails in the mix. The trailhead at the top of the pass accesses loop possibilities with the Black Canyon trail, and Lithium – another downhill-only route. Or head west to Mail Cabin Creek or Idaho’s Mike Harris trailhead. The Greater Snow King Trail System in Cache Creek adjacent to Jackson has miles of singletrack, bisected by a mellow-grade dirt road climbing lazily up-canyon to the Gros Ventre Wilderness boundary (leave your bike at the boundary for a bike-hike combo – no bikes allowed in the wilderness area!). Ride the Putt Putt and Sidewalk trails on the north side through sunny fields of wildflowers and aspens. Cruise the southside Hagen and Creekside trails for timbered and shady rides. Climb Ferrin’s trail and connect with Game Creek for a 20-plus-mile loop back to town on the paved Von Gontard, Paul Merritt, and Russ Garaman pathways.
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Photos: Wade McKoy
The Grand Loop Road, early morning, before others hit the road.
Jackson Hole Community Pathways
Teton Village gets in on the new-trail excitement this summer as the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort proudly launches its downhill mountain bike park. It’s a family-friendly experience, one that any novice biker can enjoy. Ride up Teewinot
chair lift with your bike and cruise down one of six different trails with difficulty ratings similar to those of ski trails. Built by Gravity Logic, one of the world’s premier mountain bike park developers, this new park represents the finest in trail design and construction. Additionally, seven miles of super-fun singletrack traverse the entire lower mountain, from Après Vous to the Hobacks. Rolling and winding with the ski terrain, this route was designed and built by year-round resort workers – skiers. Expert cyclists might choose to climb the rocky dirt road to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain and ride the tram back down free of charge (downhill riding is prohibited above the top of the Gondola). Pick up a map from any employee.
Etiquette Please remember, bikes must yield to all other trail users. Expect to see hikers and horse riders on many of these routes. Cyclists riding downhill should yield to cyclists riding up. Trail users should not give up their sense of hearing: turn down those tunes so you can still hear other people coming…and the lions, moose, and bears that, rest assured, are out there, too. Ride open trails only. Respect wilderness and national park closures and private property. Give wildlife a wide berth. Happy trails! — Teton Yellowstone Adventure Guide
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WILD by NATURE Teton Pass area downhill-specific trail
Grand Targhee, high in mountains on the Teton’s western slopes and a short scenic drive through Teton Valley, Idaho, actively keeps pace with the growing bike community with a variety of both rolling cruiser and lift-accessed downhill-specific trails. At 8,000 feet, base-area cruisers include Ricks Basin and Quakie Ridge. Experts can take their downhill mountain bike up the chair lift and bomb down the jumps and berms on Easy Rider, or ride their cross-country bike out to Mary’s Saddle and the Teton Vista Traverse. Over a dozen double-track and single-track bike trails give riders great views in the company of wildflowers and aspens. Pick up a map at the activity center. The old ranching community of Teton Valley went totally new-school three years ago when the nonprofit organization Victor Velo built the Bike Park. Adjacent to Pioneer Park on Elm Street in Victor, Idaho, the Bike Park offers beginner, intermediate, and advanced dirt jumps. It’s free and open to cyclists of all ages and abilities. From Pinedale, Wyoming, cyclists can travel ten miles into the Wind River Mountains above town to the White Pine Ski Area for lift-accessed mountain biking, including advanced riding on downhill trails and more moderate trail riding. Rentals available at the resort. w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
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CLIMBING
Enter the ramparts of the Gods
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A climbing instructor guides his class on Cube Point, the Cathedral Group as backdrop.
he Grand Tetons’ craggy peaks and granite walls have drawn mankind to them since the first Lakota braves ventured upwards from the grassy, flat hunting grounds of Jackson Hole summers into that rock-hard, vertical landscape of rarified air. These Native Americans left their marks from on high. One notable spot attesting to these journeys is at the summit of The Enclosure, a peak so-named for its shrine of flat rocks set on edge and used for Vision Quests.
A student climber learns the ropes.
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By the late 19th Century, the first modern American climbers had also made their own marks, depicted by route and peak names that honor mountaineering pioneers such as William Owen, Paul Petzoldt, the Reverend Spalding, and many others. Potent today as ever before, these majestic peaks still beckon passersby, to walk up a canyon,
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to sit beneath a stand of towering old-growth timber beside a rushing stream, and then to climb toward the summits. Those who heed the call are enriched by the process of work, achievement, rest, and reflection. “The initial lure of climbing, and still the bottom line for many of us, is it allows us to be in a lot of places that a lot of people don’t get to be,” says Jackson Hole Mountain Guides’ head man Rob Hess. This sense of privileged passage, revered in the lives of mountaineers, fuels the fires of dedication. “I would call climbing a discipline rather than a sport,” says Hess. “It incorporates every thought in your life, your physical makeup, and even, I suppose, your spiritual being. It’s all-encompassing. It becomes your identity and drives your life.” Those who haven’t had a chance to let climbing into their lives on such an intimate level – yet – can especially benefit by hiring a guide. And one who puts all the hard work into perspective. “You have to work through the times when it’s not fun, when you’re grinding uphill with a heavy pack,” says Hess. “But once you’ve made it and
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A guide and client traverse Teton Glacier, the Grand Teton in center frame.
been someplace special, it gives you a sense of accomplishment.â&#x20AC;? The hard work and challenge pay high wages, and it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t stop there, either. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The initial adrenaline becomes euphoria when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve worked through a climb,â&#x20AC;? Hess continues, â&#x20AC;&#x153;especially if you make it up something where you went through some fear.â&#x20AC;? And thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s where a strong mindset comes into play. â&#x20AC;&#x153;For any discipline, you have to train your mind and your body to work at a high level,â&#x20AC;? he says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;But physical strength doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t work alone, and doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t account for all that much if you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t also have the necessary mental strength and forti-
â&#x20AC;&#x153;The initial lure of climbing, and still the bottom line for many of us, is it allows us to be in a lot of places that a lot of people donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get to be.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Rob Hess.
tude. There are people who arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t necessarily that strong, but that are super accomplished because mentally theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re so tough, they push so hard.â&#x20AC;? But is it fun? â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s after-thought fun,â&#x20AC;? says Hess. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Not the raw fun of a sport like skiing, for instance. Climbing, necessarily, doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have many moments where itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just raw psyche, where youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re just whooping it up. For me, and I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know why, I need something thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more than just raw fun.â&#x20AC;? Climbers like fun, too, but they need discipline. In climbing, many have found a discipline that transcends the sport. â&#x20AC;&#x153;When Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m up on a route, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m completely in the moment,â&#x20AC;? Hess says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not thinking of anything else. All the distractions, the baggage of life, the various forms of stress, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re leaving everything else behind, thinking fully on climbing whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
front of you, focused on the right-then-and-there.â&#x20AC;? Hess says this total focus is cleansing. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s freedom â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and that there arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t many things like that in life. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Martial arts masters talk about achieving that focus without a discipline,â&#x20AC;? says Hess. â&#x20AC;&#x153;They say Westerners need a discipline to achieve that state of consciousness where youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not thinking about anything else. Where youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re focused.â&#x20AC;? And within the discipline of climbing, there is more: a different kind of adrenaline fix. â&#x20AC;&#x153;For me, the exhilaration comes from working through fear,â&#x20AC;? he says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Controlling fear and not letting it overtake me.â&#x20AC;? He takes ice climbing as the ultimate example. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Anybody who ice climbs a lot will tell you that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kind of a scary pursuit,â&#x20AC;? he points out. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an ethereal sport. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s there and gone. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re climbing on ice at one time of year, and at another time of year the ice route doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even exist. When youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re on it, you have to be very precise. Your protection keeps you from dying, but still, you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fall. Working through your fear and pressing forth is an exhilarating element, I think.â&#x20AC;? Many guides look at the job as a way to give back to the lifestyle they love. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Climbing is self-centered,â&#x20AC;? he observes. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Everything you do is about personal development. Yes, you have partnerships, and those are some of the best parts of being a climber. But, fundamentally, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re developing your own physical and mental self. So for me, to solve the problem of giving something back in life, the obvious solution is being a mountain guide. To take that knowledge, that exuberance, and that enjoyment of the mountains and help someone else enjoy that.â&#x20AC;? Center yourself and heed the call of the mighty Tetons. Hire a climbing guide and find out why indigenous tribes scaled these majestic summits to perform their most revered spiritual ceremonies. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Teton Yellowstone Adventure Guide
Offering guided climbs and rock climbing instruction throughout the Tetons Custom mountaineering trips & alpine treks in the Wind Rivers & Beartooths Kids and families welcome JACKSON â&#x20AC;˘ CODY â&#x20AC;˘ LANDER
! % $
Photos, clockwise from top left: David Stubbs, courtesy Wilderness Ventures; Wade McKoy; Wade McKoy, courtesy Wilderness Ventures
Climb the Grand...
JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN GUIDES & Climbing School Since 1968 165 North Glenwood Street Jackson, Wyoming 83001
800.239.7642 307.733.4979 www.jhmg.com " ! " "! & ! ! !! % ! ! # ! ! ! ! " ! ! !
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HORSEBACKRIDING Western family fun
Trail rides can take horses and riders into the mountains among vibrant wildflowers and windswept views.
here’s west, and there’s The West. Not a direction, mind you, but a place steeped in history and cowboy lore. Images of it flow into your mind like a flash flood in a Western movie. Gunfights at high noon, wagon trains stretched across the high plains, John Wayne hunting down the bad guys, and the cowboy astride his horse, riding into the sunset. Well, here you are in the West, so why not connect with the lore of the past by throwing your leg over the back of a trusty steed and heading for the hills. Although loping off into the horizon may not be on your agenda, finding a horse to mount and ride couldn’t be easier. No matter where the western visitor travels, trail rides are available. And there are many ways to indulge that wanderlust. The simplest is a two-hour ride. If that leaves you hankering for more, consider half-day or full-day rides. For the ultimate Western experience, though, sign on for an overnight or multi-day pack trip. The ultimate cowboy up experience? How about a full week at a dude ranch! “It is good Western family fun,” says Laura Child of the A-OK Corral. “Jackson Hole is known
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for its cowboy and mountain man heritage and that is the way they saw it, so by going on a horseback ride you can step back in time and see it like they would have.” Never been on a horse? “Not a problem,” says Marilyn Dahle of Yellowstone Outfitters and Teton Village Trail Rides. “Seventy-five percent of our riders have never been on a horse; it’s fun to take inexperienced people and see the big smiles on their faces and the satisfaction when they learn to ride.” Yellowstone Outfitters leads riders into the Teton Wilderness, where spectacular views of the Tetons unfold around every bend. “The thrill of just being on the back of a horse,” she says, “is part of the Western adventure that people are after.”
Photos: Bob Woodall / Yellowstone Outfitters & Thunder Mountain Outfitters
T
by Bob Woodall
“The thrill of just being on the back of a horse is part of the Western adventure that people are after.” — Marilyn Dahle
“Agreed,” noted the late Cameron Garnick from the Triangle C Dude Ranch. But that’s not all. “You can see much more,” he pointed out, “because you are not having to watch the trail. You can look around at the 360-degree view, enjoy the
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The camp cook, a pack trip’s prize ingredient.
smell of the sage, the sounds of under the star-filled sky. the forest, listen to streams, and If a couple days in the saddrink in the landscape – and dle have not reined in your dephysical limitations can be sire for an Old West vacation, overcome.” Traveling at 4-5 consider a stay at a dude ranch, miles an hour, horses can cover the ultimate Western experilots of territory, and in a short ence. In the 1880s the term time riders can be deep into “dude” was applied to dressedthe mountains. Plus, “you are up city slickers, especially to doing it the way it was done by Easterners vacationing in the Indians, mountain men, and West and who affected elabocowboys,” said Garnick. rate “Wild West” getups as Now that you’re longing to paying visitors at a “dude hit the trail, what’s next? ranch.” While some places call Well, dress the part. You themselves “guest” ranches don’t need to go out and dude nowadays, seek out ones that yourself up in full cowboy rehave not dropped the “dude” galia, but a few items will make from their name: those will be the ride more enjoyable. Cowthe ranches offering the most boy boots are best, although authentic experience. any closed-toed shoes are fine. A proper dude ranch reHigh-altitude and remote valleys grow lush in prime summer weather. Sandals are not recommended. gales its guests with the roLong pants and a hat are advisable, and because overnight and three- and six-day pack trips, as well mance of the West for a full week. Dudes are the weather can change rapidly here in the real as fishing trips to the Yellowstone River and the pampered in a rustic setting with a full plate of acWest, bring a raincoat. Also on the short list are Gros Ventre Mountains. And if you want the tivities, including daily trail rides, cookouts, insect repellant, sunscreen, sunglasses, water bot- Western adventure without spending the whole campfires, Western sing-alongs, and rodeos. time on a horse, check out the overnight wagon Ranches tailor their weeks for singles, couples, tle, camera, and binoculars. Next, decide how much time you really have train trips. Spend half of the trip on the wagon and families, and groups. for spending in the saddle. Like most outfitters, the rest on horseback. In Teton Village hop on a You’re smack dab in the middle of The West, Yellowstone Outfitters, Teton Village Trail Rides, horse or covered wagon and ride off to a dinner so take advantage of it! Whether it’s for two hours and the A-OK Corral offer two-hour, half-day, and cookout. Campfire cookouts come complete with or a whole week. full-day trips. If that’s not enough, they also offer a singing cowboy serenading campers by a fire Saddle up – and happy trails to you!
Take in the fabulous views from the back of a horse!
HORSEBACK TRAIL RIDES
Guided Horseback Trail Rides
Cowboy fun for the entire family!
2 hour — Half Day — All Day All Day Rides include a Sack Lunch
Yellowstone Outfitters TETON WILDERNESS - HORSEBACK TRAIL RIDES & WAGONS WEST - COVERED WAGON TREKS
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We offer rides for... 1 hr • 2 hr • 1/2 day • All day Over night pack trips. Only 15 minutes south of Jackson
307-733-6556
307-543-2418
www.horsecreekranch.com aok@wyoming.com
Permittee of Bridger Teton National Forest and Teton Wilderness Area • Outfitter License #085
Permitted by BTNF Equal Opportunity Service Provider
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SHOOTING
Learn a pioneer skill from a pro
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shotgun wedding? Really, in this day and age? Yep, and among the following Jackson Hole activities it jumps out at one no less than another rather unusual idea: rafting, fly fishing, hiking, biking, dining, horseback riding, shopping, and (here it comes) “shooting.” In all fairness, it should read, “sport shooting,” a more accurate term for the enterprise, not unlike like the word “wedding” just by itself. But this is the West, and guns, shooting, sport, weddings and yes, even shotguns, are woven into its colorful fabric. Especially in Wyoming, where it’s now carving out a niche in Teton County with the opening of The Jackson Hole Shooting Experience. History is on this business’s side, too. Wyoming and the West figure large in the evolution of firearms and sport. Black powder shoots at mountain men rendezvous, world-class big game hunting, the Buffalo Bill Historical Center’s Cody Firearms Museum, all are testimony to the place of guns in the Old West and New West. Jackson, not surprisingly, has supplied the U.S. Olympic Biathlon team with several members, one of whom is even in the hall of fame. After all, Jackson is the West, nestled right in the snow-flush Rockies, a perfect place for combining the sports of cross-country skiing and target shooting. Ironically, the founder of Jackson Hole Shooting Experience is himself a non-hunter. Former town police officer Shepherd Humphries presides over the company (and some of the “shotgun weddings” of course— more about them later). His introduction to shooting was sparked “as a teenager in the
Our History Grand and Alive! Jackson Hole, Trappers, Dude Ranchers, Homesteaders, Adventurers, and Characters.
Wyoming and the West figure large in the evolution of firearms and sport.
Shooting clay pigeons is a blast and can help bird hunters bag their limit, too.
The Cody Firearms Museum in the Buffalo Bill Historical Center chronicles the evolution of the gun.
hills, where I first became interested in 22 target practice,” he recalls. Target shooting, obviously, predates its entry into the 1924 Olympics. And firearms, as any enthusiast knows, lay claim to a long history, especially here in the U.S. Sport shooting itself dates back to 1872 and those first matches held in
THE VIRGINIAN LODGE & RV PARK Jackson Hole, Wyoming
Saloon & Liquor Store • Restaurant Convention/Meeting Facilities
JACUZZI SUITES OUTDOOR HEATED POOL OUTDOOR HOTTUB RV PARK 750 West Broadway 800-262-4999
225 North Cache • Jackson, WY 307-733-2414
www.jacksonholehistory.org 34
307-733-2792
www.virginianlodge.com
# A Taste of the Old West #
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a home here. He wanted to shoot some of his guns, and he suggested to me, ‘You ought to take out city slickers like me and teach them about shooting.’” And so he does. “There are opportunities for all levels,” he points out. “From both ends of the spectrum. And I do it year-round, even during down times of spring and fall.” Unlike the black powder shoots held only during summer mountain man gatherings, “sport shooting is always in business.” As for that shotgun wedding,
folks looking for something fresh for their guests, should look into one of his outfit’s more novel offerings. “It’s really more for sporting, for a good time. My wife and I got married here about eight years ago, and because all the relatives came here, we were looking for things to do.” Humphries and his crew can even bring shotguns and skeet right to a private gathering for what is arguably one of the more unique services possibly attending a matrimonial or corporate gathering. In addition to shotgun and trap experiences, his company provides certified pistol and rifle use instruction. For more info log on to: www.shootinjh.com or call 307-690-7921. — Teton Yellowstone Adventure Guide
Photos, clockwise from top left: Wade McKoy (Pheasant hunter: Ray Riedman); courtesy The Jackson Hole Shooting Experience; Bob Woodall.
Accurate pistol shooting challenges everyone.
New York. On a more modern note, the 2004 Olympics spotlighted three shooting competitions: rifle, pistol, and shotgun. Humphries notes that his business can provide for all those interests at the Jackson Hole Gun Club site, south of the town of Jackson. “It’s truly one of the best,” he says. “It has a covered shooting area, two separate pistol bays, a classroom.” Jackson, already widely celebrated for its hunting opportunities, was not always on the map for sport-shooting enthusiasts. Humphries stumbled on the idea helping friends when he was a training officer for a sniper team. “A few years ago, I took a friend out; he had
Novice or Experienced Marksmen Welcome! Offering a Wide Range of Firearms • Low Recoil Target & Combat Pistols • Revolvers • AK-47 • Sig 556 Semi-Auto Rifle • Lever Action & Long Range Rifles
We’ll bring the guns and instruction. You’ll leave with the perma-grin.
SEIZE YOUR JACKSON HOLE SHOOTING EXPERIENCE TODAY!
All natural Jackson Hole beef raised on conservation land and finished with spent grains. Our beef are steroid and antibiotic free and are always humanely treated by gentle cowboys. Mead Beef is dry-aged for 21 days for the most succulent steaks and bodacious burgers.
For more than 100 years, in the shadows of the Tetons, the Hansen/Mead Family has raised the highest quality beef available. Available at the Jackson Hole Farmers Market and at these fine Jackson Restaurants & Grocers: Pearl Street Meat and Fish Co. • Snake River Grill Rendezvous Bistro • Q Roadhouse Il Villaggio Osteria • 43 North • Mangy Moose The Calico • Ignite • The Wort Hotel
Jackson Hole Natural Beef, LLC Jackson, Wyoming • 307.734.3911 www.meadranchbeef.com
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www.ShootInJH.com 307-690-7921 Customized Shooting Experiences Year Round
Also check our online calendar for Pre-Dinner Clays, ‘Shotgun Wedding’ Experiences and other special events!
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Mead Ranch Natural Beef
Brad Mead, Rancher Mission Statement: To continue our family ranching tradition of the highest level of land stewardship and humane animal treatment to produce the finest locally grown beef available. What makes our product special? Five generations of the Hansen/ Mead family have raised beef in Jackson Hole. Our product is locally grown in the shadow of the Tetons and naturally delicious. — Kate Mead
J.C. Jewelers
Jeter Case, Jeweler Mission Statement: To create fine jewelry inspired by the Jackson Hole lifestyle What makes your Made in Wyoming product special? The jewelry is designed and created in Jackson Hole using reclaimed noble metals and fair-trade gems. — Jeter and Jan Case
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DanShelley Jewelers
Daniel Harrison, Jeweler Mission Statement: Inspired designs that reflect our Western lifestyle What makes your Made in Wyoming product special? Over the past 35 years of retail interaction with our customers, we have listened, learned, and created wearable works of art that reflect our environment, made in a variety of gems and metals. This exciting opportunity continues each year with new and wonderful creations that become mementos our customers can cherish for a lifetime. Inspiration truly begins at 6,000 feet. — Daniel Harrison
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Photos: Wade McKoy (5); Wind River photo courtesy Pinedale Roundup
Made inWyoming
Hines Goldsmiths
Gary Smith, Jeweler Mission Statement: To provide our customers with a unique, handmade, high-quality heirloom piece of jewelry that we hope will provide a lifetime of happiness. We want the store experience to be pleasant and leave our clients with fond memories of their trip to Jackson Hole. What makes your Made in Wyoming product special? Since 1970, Hines Goldsmiths are the original designers of the Teton Jewelry line, which includes pendants, charms, rings, and other items. We are also the original designers of the Teton Bangle bracelets, as well as our rendition of the Wyoming Bucking Bronco pendant and charm. Our elk-ivory jewelry is custom made. All of our jewelry is handmade in Jackson Hole, on the premises, each with a unique quality and character. — Carolyn Hines
Jackson Hole Buffalo Meat Company
Dan Marino, Artisan Mission Statement: To provide, at a fair price, highly nutritious and wellprepared food items using only quality ingredients. To educate the public on the health benefits of buffalo and elk products. What makes your Made in Wyoming product special? We have our preferred supplier and have been working with them for 30 years and trust their product. It is a 100% all natural and sustainable product. I really enjoy the fact that I am providing a product that is extremely healthy to eat. It has a lot less fat, calories and cholesterol, while being higher in iron/ protein/ omega 3 and 6. We hand-select, slice, season, and smoke all of our products, in our department of agriculture-inspected plant here in Jackson Hole. We make small batches of jerky and salami to ensure freshness and we custom cut steaks, and grind our own buffalo and elk burger. — Dan and Suzanne Marino
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Wind River Brewing Company
Richie Strom and Eric Berg, Brewmasters Mission Statement: To enrich the lives of our guests and employees through superior quality food and beverages, legendary customer service, and by treating our employees like family. What makes your Made in Wyoming product special? Wind River Brewing Co. is the first and only brewery in Wyoming to package its beer in cans – 16 oz. cans, to be exact. Cans keep out light to better preserve taste and freshness. They transport better than bottles, especially in a backpack while out in the wild. They’re 100% recyclable, too, including the 4-pack rings, which are also re-usable. The water used in the brewing process is also very special. Collected from a local glacier-fed lake, it tests 98.9% pure, so there’s no need to alter or adjust the water chemistry. — Greg Mottashed, General Manager
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little over a half-hour from Jackson, the alpine community of, well, Alpine, has been quietly luring residents and travelers for years now. Something of a gateway village, Alpine,Wyoming, boasts every square inch the jaw-dropping scenery of Jackson Hole and pretty much all of the same exhilarating recreational opportunities. What it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have, though, is the crush of visitors who make their way into Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks. Alpine, then, might be the ideal spot to lay over in, before or after making that push through the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s high-profile parks. Nestled at the mighty Snake River Canyonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mouth, the town lies a stoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s skip away from pristine waters just begging for families to cavort in and around. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perched alongside the Snake, Greys, and Salt rivers, and opens up onto the vast big-water playground known as the Palisades Reservoir. Campers, anglers, hikers, horseback riders, boaters, kayakers, hunters â&#x20AC;&#x201C; pretty much every type of outdoor enthusiast whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ever romped beneath the Tetons â&#x20AC;&#x201C; know that this playground extends well beyond the town limits. For years now, Jacksonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pricey real estate has nudged caravans of folks south along the Snake River to this charming area. Homesites can still be purchased here without taking on a debt service that might overwhelm average-family budgets. So critical is this bedroom community, that daily weekday buses shuttle workers and visitors between Alpine and Jackson. Travelers, too, are picking up on Alpineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s amenities. The confluence of waters, geography,
Photo: Bob Woodall
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Alpine lies at the confluence of the Greys and Snake rivers, on the banks of the Palisades Reservoir.
and accommodations in the community provide gorgeous valley and is nearly paralleled by a good national forest roadway. The Wyoming and the Salt ample outlets for visitors to mountain country. RVers, who often come up empty-handed in River Ranges hem the riverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s idyllic setting and help places with shrinking or disappearing RV parks, explain its appeal to campers and trekkers. Anglers have no trouble finding spots to tarry in or near quickly warm to the riverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s accessibility and prized Alpine. Just outside the town, travelers can head trout population, while kayakers celebrate the Greysâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; early season sporting up the Greys River road or Anglers quickly warm to the challenges. wend their way around the The town itself serves a reservoir or into the Snake riverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s accessibility and diverse and demanding River Canyon itself to camp, prized trout population. community of natives and picnic, and recreate. transplants alike. Both they The Palisades Reservoir, claiming 25 square miles of water, 70 miles of and a regiment of resident Jackson workers who shoreline, and year-round fishing, rests right in a happily commute through the Snake River bonanza of mountain landscape. Of course, with Canyon every day expect what residents in any this much water, one would expect nearby wet- western town do: restaurants, watering holes, lands and waterfowl viewing areas â&#x20AC;&#x201C; just like the medical services, a community calendar that one a few miles south of town. The Palisades is nourishes a healthy social life, all the elements that home to native cutthroat, browns, kokanee, and knit together mountain country towns. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve found it in Alpine, Wyoming. And so mackinaw, and because motorized craft are permitted on the lake, anglers can cover a lot of water. can anyone lucky enough to arrive at this not-soNaturally, a reservoir this expansive would be hidden valley among the stars. For more info, go online at www.starvalleyfed by equally impressive sources. Like the Snake and Salt rivers. But it might be the Greys River that chamber.com for an introduction to Alpine and its really surprises. Accessible from right downtown, offerings. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Mike Calabrese this beguiling, limpid waterway winds through a
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& LODGE Welcome to Greys River Country * LIQUOR STORE * RESTAURANT * NON-SMOKING 877-654-7593
The countryside surrounding Cody inspired early travelers the same way it does today’s visitors.
C
by Mike Calabrese
ody, Wyoming, has a lot to live up to. Barely an hour from the nation’s foremost national park, the town and its namesake, the almost mythic Colonel William F. (Buffalo Bill) Cody are central to the great American West’s history. But its billing
Photos: Bob Woodall
For starters: The Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway courses alongside the Shoshone River’s north fork, through the Wapiti (a Native American word for elk) Valley and leads to Yellowstone National Park. Another, The Chief Joseph Scenic Highway, besides recalling one of the most heartbreaking events in U.S. history, winds through the as a “get after it community” might just be Cody’s Clark’s Fork region, past Sunlight Basin and to the top of Dead Indian Pass. greatest asset. A visit to this Neither the area’s history nor living museum of the Old William Frederick Cody the lay of the land can be igand New West leaves little received the Congressional nored here. One byway, the doubt about the town’s place Beartooth All-American in the pantheon of mounMedal of Honor for bringRoad, is not for the faint of tain-country treasures. ing the West to the world. heart. Cresting at 10,947 Because Cody lies at the feet, it’s been called by some hub of many breathtaking roadways, arriving at, traveling around, or leaving “the most beautiful highway in America.” The visthe town affords visitors journeys into scenery un- tas here are unequalled and worth their weight in gold – or camera equipment. surpassed anywhere.
And those are just for starters. Or “leavers,” if you can pull yourself away from the town itself. A stay in Cody is something like a dig for archaeologists, revealing layer upon layer of life’s insights and adventures. Anglers, bikers, river runners, hunters, hikers, horse enthusiasts, no one drawn to the region’s rich landscape will be disappointed. The North and South forks of the Shoshone River, their waters roiling and teeming with life, play host to adventurers of all ages and abilities. On the river in kayaks or rafts, or casting a line from a bank or into a pool of cutthroat, water recreationists can put their energies to work, sun up to sundown. Families looking for a quick hike into Buffalo Bill’s beloved country can trek pretty much right from the town environs on the Paul Stock Nature Trail. The pathway parallels the Shoshone River continued page 41
The Cowboy Action Shoot at the Cody Wild West Shootout (left); Old Trail Town (right). w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
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BUFFALO BILL HISTORICAL CENTER
Take a few hours or a day or two and come explore the Spirit of the American West with us. You’ll be glad you did.
COME
explore!
Located in the authentic western town of Cody, Wyoming and surrounded by the beauty and majesty of the Greater Yellowstone region, the Buffalo Bill Historical Center tells the stories of the history, nature, and culture of the American West in a way no other museum in the world can.
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720 Sheridan Avenue • Cody, Wyo 82414 Visit us Online: www.bbhc.org • 307.587.4771
BUFFALO BILL HISTORICAL CENTER
Celebrating the Spirit of the American WestTM
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In cooperation with the Park County Travel Council.
Photo: Bob Woodall
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museum, like history itself, cluding apparel and accessories,” the should intrigue, compel, fascinate. BBHC has created the exhibit: The Buffalo Bill Historical Center Dressed Just Right: An Evolution of eminently succeeds at these tasks. Western Style from Function to FlamFrom the moment one enters the boyance. It features five major stunning complex, the history of themes: Origins (Native American), the American West explodes from Working Ranch, Wild West, Dude the past’s pages right before the Ranch, and Rodeo. Eye-catching to visitor’s eyes. say the least. With over 300,000 square feet of Another new for 2011 exhibition, floor space on three levels, the cenArapaho Journeys: Photographs and ter presents a vivid picture of the Stories from the Wind River ReservaWest, an entire vibrant museum tion, is woven into the center’s highly dedicated to each of five themes: the regarded Plains Indian Museum living culture of the Plains Indian, focus. This creation, which spotthe natural wonders of the Yellowlights “contemporary photographs of stone region, the legend of Buffalo Northern Arapaho people…,” can’t Bill Cody, the fine art of Western help but enhance what Crow tribal masters, and the marvelous story of elder Dr. Joseph Medicine Crow has the evolution of the firearm (see re- The Whitney Gallery exhibits art of the Old and New West. already described as a “living, lated story on page 34). breathing place where more than just In addition to already world-renowned permanent exhibits, the BBHC Indian objects are on display.” this year reveals four new exhibitions as it probes deeper into history and Of course, the museum’s proximity to the nation’s first national park culture. Although nearly 70 years in the past, the internment of Japanese lends special significance to another 2011 special exhibition: Yellowstone Americans during World War II remains an important page in U.S. and to Yukon: Freedom to Roam. Western history. Beauty Behind Barbed Wire: Arts and Crafts from Heart A perfect pairing for a visit to the BBHC’s Draper Museum of Natural Mountain Internment Camp “features photographs and artifacts from the History. This makes a great place to launch that expedition into Yellow(BBHC) collection that tell a small part of the story of Japanese Americans stone itself. interned at the Heart Mountain Camp from 1942-1945.” The Buffalo Bill Historical Center has captured a moment in time, a The history of the West, though, begins a bit earlier than the mid Twen- moment that is much longer and larger than some realize. By not resting on tieth Century. “Buffalo Bill” Cody, the namesake for the museum, died in its already notable laurels, the museum continues “Celebrating the Spirit 1917 but remains iconic today for his exploits and his true love of the West. of the American West.” He was and is a picture of the Old West. Cody’s famous flowing mane, genVisitors may purchase reproductions of fine Western art, jewelry, and tlemanly goatee and mustache, and his wardrobe of long coats, boots, and Native American art at the Historical Center’s museum store, Museum Sebroad-brimmed hats are what many think of when the Old West comes to lections. Admission is good for two consecutive days and includes entry to mind. And the museum hasn’t failed to take note. all five museums. For more information call 307.587.4771 or visit In a show that “represents the real West as well as the idealized West, in- www.bbhc.org. — Mike Calabrese
From cowboy music reviews to chuckwagon dinners with live music, even a jazz festival, Cody brims with aural and visual delights. founders would be proud of, the chamber of commerce has created an audio tour narrated by hometown boy and former U.S. Senator Alan Simpson. An audio clip and a pdf map, both downloadable from www.codychamber.org., allow visitors with their feet on the ground a relaxing view into Cody’s downtown history. Simpson’s folksy, heartfelt narration is the perfect companion for a rewarding walking tour into Cody’s history
and its landmarks in town and on the horizons. Travelers with access to a computer can log onto the Cody chamber’s website. Second to none, the site hosts a colorful compendium of photos, information, and opportunities for the visitor to Cody country. Just right for families planning the trip of a lifetime into the living West, old and new. Mike Calabrese is a musician, editor, and writer living in Jackson Hole.
Photo: Bob Woodall
Cody continued and affords views of Heart, Rattlesnake, Cedar, and Carter mountains. Cameras and kids will love this jaunt. Bikers, too, find quick easy access into trails, again right from town. Beck Lake Park, Red Lakes, and of course the Paul Stock Nature Trail, make crafting a colorful family outing a snap. The West and horses, both symbols of the region’s landscape, go hand in hand and still tug at travelers to Cody country. Hundreds of miles of trails, full- or half-day rides, or full-blown multiday pack trips await those chomping at the bit to sit a horse.
Buffalo Bill Cody, portrayed by an actor with the nightly Cody Shootout in front of the Irma Hotel.
Cody, of course, is no less proud of its cultural features than any other community. But Cody’s palette of offerings has the added benefit of geography and history. Its gem, the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, a constantly growing museum, showcases and celebrates the rich, epochal American West (see story on facing page). The town’s complex of historical edifices gives life to Cody’s connection to one of America’s most prized eras, the settling of the West. Buffalo Bill’s Irma Hotel, nearby historic Old Town, Tecumseh’s Old West Village, the Dug Up Cody Museum, to name just a few, should easily keep kids and adults alike wondering about and celebrating history’s eye into the past. Music, too, is permanently etched into Cody’s living fabric. From cowboy music reviews to chuckwagon dinners with live music, even a jazz festival, the town brims with aural and visual delights. And, finally, there’s the Cody Nite Rodeo, with all its spectacle, drama, and just plain old family fun. Billed as the Rodeo Capitol of the World, a lodestone of Americana in the Wild West, Cody’s rodeo season runs nightly from June 1 through August 31. (For more information, see story on next page.) Sometimes, though, the simple things in life yield the greatest treasures. In a move the town’s w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
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ell them you stayed three days and had one heckuva good time in Cody, Wyoming. That you let your hair down, so to speak. You let Cody be your hub while you ventured out on five spectacular loop tours. You went hiking and fishing and took amazing pictures in Yellowstone. You rode the rapids and the horses. You stepped back in time and got to know the real Buffalo Bill at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center. You liked him. Call 1-800-393-2639 or visit yellowstonecountry.org
Fly into Cody via Delta and United Airlines
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Photos: Bob Woodall
CODY NITE RODEO
A cowgirl and her equally talented horse compete in barrel racing.
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The comedy of a rodeo clown’s close work with livestock is mostly serious business.
Original cowboy sport in the Rodeo Capitol of the World
By Joy Ufford ust puffs underfoot as cowgirls and cowboys, Rodeo hasn’t changed much over the years, ex- Wild Card,” and 2000 Saddle Bronc of the Year little to large, expectant crowds, and rodeo clowns cept to get even better – better horses, meaner “Surprise Party Skoal.” shuffle their boots and silently clutch hats to chests. bulls, faster times, and more money. But one thing You’ll see their champion stock at the Cody The setting sun sends shafts of warm light through that never changes about rodeo is the contestants’ Nite Rodeo’s 87 “regular” shows (now a town the evening air and bathes everyone – rider, roper, heartfelt desires to be good, even great, at some- mainstay for almost 80 years) from June 1-Aug. 31 racer – in a golden glow and sharpens the silhou- thing they love. at 8 p.m. (gates open at 7 ettes of waiting horses and swaggering bulls. The same can be said of p.m.), including the celeIt’s the most magical moment of the night, their horses, whether brated PRCA-sanctioned when a microphone crackles to life and the in- buckin’ broncs or muscled Cody Stampede Rodeo, a spiring lyrics of our national anthem lift hearts mounts: that good feeling of tradition since 1937 and around the arena as many sing along with the doing a job well holds as always held July 1-4. words that stir them deeply every time –“the land true for the animals as it Nightly events include of the free and the home of the brave…” does for the men and bareback and saddle Rodeo is so thoroughly American now (despite women who ride them and broncs, calf and team roproots in vaquero and ranching traditions of Mexico for the rodeo clowns who ing, steer wrestling, and old California) that it’s mandatory to see the risk life and limb to enterbreakaway roping, barrel star-spangled banner grasped in a rodeo queen’s tain the crowd. racing and bull riding, as hand as she gallops around the arena on her horse, Cody has been called well as a calf scramble for A rodeo cowboy’s buckaroo boots get the both showing off for appreciative crowds. the “Rodeo Capital of the job done and look the part, too. the kids. The youngsters That’s what rodeo is all about, in a way – show- World,” and that isn’t are also treated to tricking off. From snaky bulls to snorting broncs, born stretching things. Talented cowboys and girls roping demonstrations, meeting bullfighters, getto buck and born to run; from a glittering rhine- come from Peru, Australia, Canada – even Japan – ting their face painted by rodeo clowns and more. stone-studded belt here to some turquoise-fringed to test their skills in Cody Stampede Park vying for All grandstand seating is covered and affords great leather there. It’s about showbig cash and big buck- views of the arena. ing off in a good way, because les. And to have an exSpecial events include Xtreme Bulls on June 30 When the sparkling gals tear there’s nothing wrong with livciting show every at 7 p.m., when 40 of the best riders in the world ing to kick higher, run faster, night, the rough stock shoot for the $50,000 purse as well as the Codyaround on their stretched-out ride longer, rope quicker. has to buck. Yellowstone Xtreme Bulls title. Then, on July 2, horses, burning turns around For bull and bronc riders The Sankey Rodeo come see who’s “Tough Enough to Wear Pink,” a three barrels set in sand, speed it’s about getting better scores, Company, a longtime, special program supported by the Cody Stampede keeping a tighter handle on highly respected to raise awareness of and help find a cure for breast and style command attention. their ride. For the bulls and rough-stock and cancer. On July 3, show your support for our broncs, it’s about putting on a rodeo contractor, is troops on another special evening. show trying to launch cowboys into outer space. prominent in the colorful world of the ProfesCody Nite Rodeo tickets are $18 for adults, $8 When the sparkling gals tear around on their sional Rodeo Cowboy Association (PRCA). Ike for kids 7-12. Cody Stampede tickets range from stretched-out horses, burning turns around three and Roberta Sankey, with their sons Ryan and $16-$24. All can be reserved by calling 1-800-207barrels set in sand, speed and style command at- Wade, are noted for their renowned rough-stock 0744, going online at codystampederodeo.com, or tention. For the more taciturn ropers, it’s the quick breeding programs. The Sankeys have raised stopping at the Stampede Park on the west side of elegance of a rope sailing through the air to catch world-champion horses, including 1994 and 1997 Cody. a steer or calf in a heartbeat or two. Saddle Bronc of the Year “Skitso Skoal,” 1996 and Joy Ufford lives in Bondurant, where she is a Man, woman, or animal, it’s a great way to be 1997 Reserve Bareback Horse of the Year ranch hand and a writer for Pinedale’s Sublette alive. There’s nothing like it. “William,” 1998 Saddle Bronc of the Year “Skoal’s Examiner.
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BUFFALO BILL DAM
Photos: Wade McKoy; Courtesy Buffalo Bill Dam & Visitor Center
Inspired engineering among the crags In the heart of Colonel William F. Codyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s old haunt, in fact right on some of Codyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own land, one piece of Wyoming reflects nature and man at work together, albeit reluctantly. The Buffalo Bill Dam, fashioned from almost 83,000 cubic yards of concrete over five years, sits on the bed of the Shosone River, in a canyon carved by nature over millions of years. The spectacular undertaking in the Shoshone Canyon claimed the lives of seven men during its construction, no small cost when compared to the pittance (by todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s standards) of the projectâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s final bill: $929, 658. At 353 feet high and 200 feet across, the impressive structure was the tallest of its kind back in its early days, when it was known as the Shoshone Dam. Power and water flowed from the dam, providing lifeblood to farmers, ranchers, and residents in the region upon its completion in 1910. More than 93,000 acres of land in the surrounding Bighorn Basin depend on the liquid gold stored behind the dam for irrigation. In 1946 the dam was renamed in honor of Buffalo Bill, who even then knew the value of the West and perhaps its most coveted element: water. The spectacular undertaking cost just under An American visionary, Cody realized that canals $1 million but claimed seven menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lives. The visitor center is staffed and open from could never really supply enough water to efficiently nurture settlement and growth in the re- May to September, affording visitors jaw-dropping gion. He gave up on his own plan for an extensive views of both the dam and the river. A nonprofit enterprise, the center canal system and redialso offers travelers the rected his efforts and chance to grab a cup of support to the construccoffee while viewing tion of the dam. exhibits, enjoying a While still reliably movie in its theater, or fulfilling its original pureven purchasing tickpose, the dam today ets to Codyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Nite draws thousands of adRodeo. The Buffalo mirers and recreationists Bill Dam is designated as well. Buffalo Bill State a National Civil EngiPark and the reservoirâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s waters play host to an- Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s good sailing on the Buffalo Bill Reservoir at times neering Landmark and glers, boaters, campers, of frontal winds, and good water-skiing when calm. is listed on the Naphotographers, windsurfers, hikers, cyclists, and tional Register of Historic Places. For more information, visit the website at: those simply seeking a breathtaking place to view the results of natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s combined efforts. www.bbdvc.com. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Mike Calabrese
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Jackson Town Square, an authentic stagecoach, and Snow King Mountain, the town ski area since 1939
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by Joseph Piccoli
here are more than a few old-timers who say their community disappeared along with the sign.
Photos: Wade McKoy (landscape); Bob Woodall (stagecoach)
“Howdy Stranger, Yonder is Jackson Hole, the Last of the Old West,” said the 1930s wooden sign on Teton Pass, its cowboy fashioned after Jackson Mayor Harry Clissold. Pretty much everybody was a cowboy back then. Times sure have changed. There’re a few real cowboys left, but Jackson Hole has become a place where an “old-timer” is anyone who has lived in the valley longer than you. The sign is back, though, recreated by Bob Rudd and the Rotary Club in the year 2000. Jackson’s history began before the cowboy, of course. Scarcely 150 years ago, Jackson Hole was home – in summer and fall only – to small bands of Native Americans and a handful of fur trappers. Later, the trappers and Indians were replaced by homesteaders who managed to endure here while raising beef cattle and cultivating what few crops could mature during a growing season that – in a really good year – might be as long as three months. It was a tough life and it truly was a slice of the Old West. But Jackson Hole’s future (“hole” was trapper slang for a mountain valley) was determined when those homesteaders realized that dudes (rancher slang for summer tourists) were easier to keep than cattle. There are still many dude ranches in the valley, and although you can still
saddle up a horse and ride off into the sunset while staying at one, you will have choices that would befuddle a trapper: will it be a horseback ride today, or tennis? Or perhaps a round of golf? Jackson Hole is now a year-round vacation destination. The town of Jackson is a gateway to Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks, to national forests, and to wilderness areas. Visitors hike, bike, ride horseback, fish, climb mountains, marvel at the geysers of Yellowstone, and gape at the stunning Teton mountains. They attend symphony orchestra concerts and browse through art galleries and museums by the dozen. So if the wide-open spaces of the Old West really were populated by cowboys and bad guys, by schoolmarms and shady ladies, clearly much of the Old West has packed up and pulled out of town. Not all of it is gone, however, and not all of what’s left is simply a show put on for the 30,000 or so visitors who crowd the streets of downtown Jackson on an average summer day.
Nestled between the National Elk Refuge (right) and Snow King Mountain (left), Jackson draws visitors from around the world.
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The town of Jackson is a gateway to Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks, to national forests, and to wilderness areas. Take the Shootout for example. A bunch of locals don classic Western wear every night at 6 p.m. (except Sunday) from Memorial Day to Labor Day, head down to the Town Square, and pretend to shoot each other. In the best spaghetti-Western tradition there’s a bit of corny melodrama performed to set the scene, then guns blaze and the street is suddenly strewn with bodies. After a moment, the bodies stir, then stand and dust themselves off. The tourists think it’s great and you might think the event is pure Chamber of Commerce boosterism. But for the locals who produce the show it is a labor of love. Many have performed every summer for years and turn out in historically accurate costumes that really are too valuable to be worn while rolling around on the street. Another example is the wooden sidewalks in the downtown area. One woman I know (she’s a “local”) says she likes them because they give her a
GBNJMZ IFBMUI VSHFOU DBSF
Same-Day Appointments and Walk-ins Welcome
Photo : Bob Woodall
- Walk-in care clinic for acute illnesses, minor wounds and the treatment of bone, joint and other injuries - Primary care for children and adults The Jackson Hole Playhouse features live theater in downtown Jackson.
great reason not to wear high heels. Jackson, after all, retains enough of its Western heritage that you’ll see folks wearing blue jeans at even the most formal events. Some of what keeps Jackson a real Western town is simply the stuff of small towns everywhere. A while back the U.S. Postal Service tried to introduce home delivery of mail to Jackson. Residents objected because they did not want to lose the contact with friends and neighbors afforded by regular excursions to pick up their mail. The Postal Service dropped its plans for home delivery of the mail and even after opening a large post office in west Jackson a few years later, it bowed to public pressure and kept the “old” downtown post office open. Probably the most important thing about Jackson’s Western heritage, and the thing that has remained unchanged, is its location. Sure, this is Wyoming, the state with license plates that feature a picture of a cowboy on a bucking bronco. But Jackson is also surrounded by some of the most spectacular and unspoiled lands in the West. There are millions of acres surrounding Jackson (in wilderness areas and the backcountry of Yellowstone and Grand Teton parks) where travel on foot or by horseback is the only travel possible. For many people, the real West is found in those places where the impact of humans is least in evidence. In Jackson Hole, those places can be found in literally every direction. From the Jackson Town Square, the hub of urban life in the valley, you can reach a roadless wilderness in less time than it takes a person to reach a shopping mall in most American cities. So as glitzy as Jackson may seem to some, you’ll never be far from its roots – nor from the real West. Joseph Piccoli is a writer and editor living in Jackson Hole.
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- On site services: Rapid strep test Rapid flu test Blood draws X- rays - Well child, travel and influenza vaccines - CDL, FAA and school sports physicals - Workers’ Compensation Hours: Mon-Fri: 9am-7pm; Sat, Sun: 10am-4pm
307 739 8999
St John’s Family Health & Urgent Care urgentcare.tetonhospital.org Smith’s Food Store Plaza
Highway 89 and High School Road
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Photos: Bob Woodall (Village Commons); Wade McKoy (hiking)
A creek flows by the new Teton Village Commons (left). Hiking from the tram (right)
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eton Village is a destination unto itself, complete with lodging and dining that ranges from four-star luxury to economy fare and a wide array of resort activities available as turnkey adventures or do-it-yourself excursions. Tucked up against a 4,100-foot-tall mountain bedecked with forests, flowers, cliffs and crags, laced with trams and gondolas, bordering Grand Teton National Park – well, you get the picture.
to the summit and then ride the tram back down Aerial Tram The same Jackson Hole Aerial Tram that whisks for free). skiers and snowboarders up 4,139 vertical feet durA new trail slated to open this fall, sure to being ski season also carries summer vacationers on come a favorite of visitors and locals alike, winds a round-trip journey into the high alpine landscape through the spectacular Tensleep Bowl and takes of flowers and granite. The ride might include hikers to the summit of the Bridger Gondola. spotting a moose, deer, or even the occasional Tandem Paragliding Flights black bear foraging on the mountainside. Descend the mountain’s heights on a 20The sleek cabins, which carry 100 passengers minute tandem flight with Jackson Hole in ski season, easily accommodate 60 people in the Paragliding. Certified pilots who’ve logged hunsummer, standing and seated. dreds of hours flying in An entire bus tour can board the Tetons are eager to inJackson Hole Mountain the tram all at once. troduce first-timers to the At the summit, take in the Resort proudly launches unique experience of tanunrivaled 360-degree views of dem paragliding. its new downhill Jackson Hole, the Snake River, Mountain Biking mountain bike park. and Grand Teton National Park. This summer the JackHigh-altitude weather son Hole Mountain Resort changes quickly from sunshine proudly launches its new downhill mountain bike to thunderstorms and vice versa, so pack a jacket, park. It’s a family friendly experience, one that any water, and sunscreen, even for a short walk. novice biker can enjoy. Ride up Teewinot chair lift Hiking with your bike and cruise down one of six differHikers gain a massive leg up by riding the ent trails assigned difficulty ratings similar to those tram: their first steps begin on the 10,450-foot of ski trails. Wide, smooth “green” trails cater to summit of Rendezvous Mountain. This allows the largest number of riders, who might work their more time in the high-alpine tundra among hardy way up in difficulty to the banked turns of “blue” wildflowers, towering cliffs, and fascinating geo- trails. “Dark blue” and “black” trails harbor tight logical aspects, including fossils from the ancient turns, drop features, and jumps. Built by Gravity oceans that once covered Jackson Hole. Trails lead Logic, one of the world’s premier mountain bike from the top of the tram into the Cody Peak Basin park developers, this new park represents the and Grand Teton National Park. The Mountain finest in trail design and construction. Trail courses 7 miles down to Teton Village (hint: Additionally, seven miles of super-fun singlea local favorite is to hike this trail from the village track traverse the entire lower mountain, from
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Après Vous to the Hobacks. Rolling and winding with the ski terrain, this route was designed and built by year-round resort workers – skiers. Expert cyclists might choose to climb the rocky dirt road to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain and ride the tram back down free of charge (downhill riding is prohibited above the top of the Gondola). Ask a resort employee for a trail map. Bring your own bike or rent one from Jackson Hole Sports or Teton Village Sports, where you may also purchase lift tickets or inquire about bike lessons and bike-specific camps for children. Trail Rides Saddle up and experience a trail ride at the corrals on the east side of the village. Head out on hourly trail rides astride a quality mountain
SEIZE THE
TETON VILLAGE DAYS OF SUMMER! A mecca of wildflowers, wildlife and mountain scenery interspersed with a wonderful sampling of lodging, restaurants, spas, activities and entertainment. Whether you stay for just the day or a week, there is plenty of relaxation and adventure to enjoy for everyone.
Pick up your free copy of The Village Mix in any of the businesses in Teton Village or visit www.gotetonvillage.com
horse in the company of a real cowboy wrangler.
adventures in Teton Village while focusing on the nature, history, and science of Jackson Hole. Junior trekkers hike, play sports, undertake science and arts projects, and frolic in the water.
Disc Golf Play nine holes of Frisbee golf on the free course near the base of the resort. Bring your own discs or buy them at one of the resort’s many shops.
Bridger Gondola & the Couloir Restaurant With evening comes the Bridger Gondola as it fires up to transport diners to the Couloir Restaurant. At 9,095 feet, the contemporary and hip restaurant is nearly 3,000 feet above the valley floor and provides a unique setting for evening cocktails or dinner. The outdoor deck is a great place to gaze at Corbet’s Couloir and the soaring heights of the Headwall and Tensleep Bowl.
Mountain Sports School The year-round Mountain Sports School oversees mountain biking, trail-orientation classes, a children’s climbing wall, and bungee-trampolining. Additionally, they operate the summer yurt and private adventure guide services. Sleep in a Yurt The modern Rock Springs yurt houses a wood-burning stove, eight bunk beds, a kitchen, and a large dining table. Hike up a wooded, 2.5-mile trail from Teton Village into the mountains and enjoy the scenery on an overnight with friends. Expert guides cook the food, stoke the stove, and even do the dishes.
Summer Events Throughout the summer Teton Village is home to many unique gatherings, some in the new Village Commons with its pop-jet fountains, playground, and natural amphitheater, where free outdoor music events are held. Check The Village Mix and local papers for an endless stream of Village happenings.
The map shows the extent of this fabulous trail system.
Kids’ Ranch The Kids’ Ranch operates June 15-August 31, right next to the Bridger Gondola, and is well
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equipped with staff and facilities to handle wee ones from as young as six months old. Licensed day-care providers lead youngsters on
Grand Teton Music Festival Witness epic performances by some of the finest orchestra musicians in the world, including principal players from the world-famous Chicago, San Francisco, Houston, Pittsburgh, Atlanta, and New York symphonies. Conducted by Donald Runnicles, the summer schedule begins July 1. — Teton Yellowstone Adventure Guide
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Photos courtesy Grand Targhee Resort
Targhee’s base-area plaza boasts all the services needed for comfort.
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igh on the western slope of the Teton Range, hidden among forests of spruce, fir, pine, and aspen, sits Grand Targhee, a fullservice, year-round resort. Over 2,500 acres of perfect terrain for hiking, biking, horse-riding, music festivals, and, of course, skiing, lie upon two mountain peaks that stretch upward from the quaint Western village. And from the top of those peaks, the rugged Tetons seem close enough to reach out and touch.
Scenic Chair Lift Ride For the best Teton views possible anywhere, without breaking a sweat, that is, ride the Dreamcatcher chair lift to the 9,862-foot summit of Fred’s Mountain. Use the lift for sight seeing or as a jump-start to a spectacular, high-altitude hike. Take your bike up the lift, too – as long as it’s the downhill variety. Learn about these special bikes and trails at Targhee’s bike shops, Teton Mountain Outfitters in the village Main Plaza and Habitat in downtown Driggs, Idaho. Horseback Trail Rides A good horse is still the best companion – and the best mode of travel – for a long tour through these mountains. The local cowboys at Crooked Canyon Stables can saddle up a good steed and show you these mountains the old-fashioned way. Aside from walking, riding a horse is the only way to tour the Jedediah Smith Wilderness Area within the Teton Range. And horses can take you a lot farther than your own two feet. Mountain Bike Spectacular single-track trails wind through wildflower-draped meadows near the village, and miles of technical, lift-serviced downhill trails drop from the summit. Bike rentals, sales, and service are available at Targhee’s bike shops, Teton
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Bikers and hikers on Fred’s Mountain soak in the views of Peaked Peak (right) and the massive Teton Range stretching into the distance.
Mountain Outfitters in the village Main Plaza and Habitat in downtown Driggs, Idaho. A variety of mountain bike events occur throughout the summer, including the Three-Race Downhill Series, and the Pierre’s Hole 50/100. Targhee also hosts mountain bike demo days where cyclists can test the latest two-wheel technology.
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Hike Hikes from 30 minutes to several hours – to days, weeks, or months for that matter – start from Grand Targhee. Take the Dreamcatcher chair lift and gaze upon the Tetons during a moderate twomile hike to Mary’s Saddle. Rick’s Basin is an easy loop through aspen meadows with valley views
Photo: Wade McKoy
and options ranging from two mer lineup at the granddaddy to four miles. Lightning Peak’s of northern Rocky Mountain nine-mile round trip brings bluegrass festivals is: Friday – hikers breathtakingly close to Rodney Crowell, Donna the the massive west face of the Buffalo, Infamous StringGrand Teton. Guided hikes are dusters. Saturday – Joy Kills available, too. Sorrow, Jim Launderdale, Greencards, Claire Lynch, AbiClimbing Wall The fun and challenge of gale Washburn, Donna the Bufsport climbing is at your finfalo, Tim’Obrien, Yonder gertips at Grand Targhee. Mountain String Band. Sunday Coached by the experienced – LOCAL, Peter Rowan Band, staff, participants may climb Wilders, Railroad Earth. six different routes on an artiLodging ficial climbing wall in the Two western-style lodges base area. are located in the alpine village. The Grand Targhee Music Festival, an annual three-day, 15-band event. A wide range of condominiDisc Golf Seventh Annual Targhee Music Fest Disc golf, a perfect activity for the whole famums, vacation homes, and town homes are availFrom Friday to Sunday, July 15-17, an eclectic able a short distance from the resort. ily, is free to all Targhee guests. An 18-hole disc golf course begins at the base of the mountain and gathering of bands perform in a natural outdoor Dining meanders through its lower reaches. Rent discs at amphitheater adjacent to Targhee’s base-area You won’t go hungry at Grand Targhee, no the Activity Center, where scorecards and maps plaza. Catch performances by Grace Potter and the matter what time it is. The Branding Iron Grill is are also available. An annual Disc Golf Tourna- Nocturnals, Little Feat, James McMurtry, Sharon the resort’s signature dining experience, offering Jones and the Dap Kings, Funky Meters, Jason house specialties to suit any persuasion. The ment is held late July. Spooner, Sarah Bareilles, and Bonerama. Food, breakfast buffet is included for lodging guests and Naturalist Programs Start your Rocky Mountain journey at the Nat- games, and on-site activities are all a part of this a great reason to travel up Ski Hill Road for a uralist Center located just off the plaza and get a summer music festival. Tent camping on-site is hearty morning meal. The Trap Bar, an après-ski feel for what critters and plants you may find here. available during the festival weekend. Take advan- institution for over 40 years, serves pub fare along From moose to pine martin, from lupine to for- tage of the free shuttle service and leave your ve- with live entertainment and eight flat-screen teleget-me-not, feast your eyes, ears, and nose on na- hicle in Driggs. visions for sports days. 24th Annual Targhee Bluegrass Festival ture’s purest assemblage in the Lower 48 – and — Teton Yellowstone Adventure Guide From Friday to Sunday, Aug. 12-14, the sumlearn a little more about it.
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Photos: Courtesy PinedaleOnline.com (left); Bob Woodall (right 2)
Sailing on Fremont Lake (7,400 ft.), Fremont Peak (13,745 ft.) visible over the foothills.
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Gannett Peak, 13,804 feet.
Wyoming’s
tallest
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by Bob Woodall
bout 180 years ago the Pinedale area began hosting conventions.
In 1833 it was called the Green River Rendezvous and was the first of six to convene just a few miles from present day Pinedale. There was no chamber of commerce welcome wagon then. And the convention center stretched along the Green River. John Kirk Townsend, a scientist traveling with the Nathaniel Wyeth expedition, described the camp thusly: “There is … a great variety of personages amongst us, most of them calling themselves white men, French-Canadians, half-breeds, etc., their color nearly as dark, and their manners wholly as wild, as the Indians with whom they constantly associate. These people, with their obstreperous mirth, their whooping and howling, and quarrelling, added to the mounted Indians, who are constantly dashing into and through our camp, yelling like fiends, the barking and baying of savage wolf-dogs, and the incessant cracking of rifles and carbines, render our camp a perfect bedlam.” Things are a little more civilized today, but the Old West still lives on in the Upper Green River Valley. Traversed by Indians, mountain men, and explorers, the region was first settled in the late 1800s by cattlemen taking advantage of the wideopen spaces. Nowadays, ranching remains an in-
tegral part of the economy, but visitors have also discovered the magical town and valley. Founded in 1904, Pinedale sits at an elevation of 7,175 feet. A few miles from town, the magnificent Wind River Mountain Range towers over the valley like a crown tipped with white gold and bejeweled with azure mountain lakes and emerald forests. Pinedale lies 100 miles north of Rock Springs and just 80 miles south of Jackson Hole. Western hospitality, abundant wildlife, few crowds, and fantastic scenery make it the perfect base camp for summer adventures. The list of possibilities for adventurers is impressive. Sightseeing, shopping, exploring history, fishing, hiking, climbing, camping, horseback riding, hunting, boating, sailing, and biking are the major items on the Pinedale-region bucket list. And there’s plenty of space to do it in: 80 percent of the county surrounding Pinedale is public land, most of it protected by the Bridger-Teton National Forest and the Bureau of Land Management. In fact, Sublette County harbors two wilderness areas and vast tracks of open spaces. More than enough room to roam in and for discovering your own special space. Shopping Before heading out in search of fun, though, check with the chamber of commerce for more de-
tailed regional information. If you’re not yet outfitted for that trip into the great outdoors, town shops can get you fixed up with everything from a cowboy hat to a climbing helmet. You can even get “fishing supplies” at the local brewpub. Area artisans also craft many unique items. More than one visitor has taken home a hand-hewn lodgepole log bed. Horseback Riding You are in the West, so get Western. Mount up and hit the trail. Several nearby outfitters provide reliable horses and all the equipment needed for a day in the saddle. Bring your own Stetson and chaps. If you want more than a short trail ride, consider booking a week at one of the several area dude ranches. This is a classic way to be immersed in Old West Americana. Some working cattle ranches even offer the chance to cowpoke on a real cattle drive. Water Water Everywhere Water is the lifeblood of the area. Clear mountain creeks, rivers, and lakes are as ubiquitous as the antelope roaming the high plains. Aquatic continued page 53
Fremont Peak (center left) – thought to be Wyoming’s tallest by its namesake explorer – and the Wind River Mountains stand vigil over Pinedale ranch land.
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Photos courtesy PinedaleOnline.com
GREEN RIVER RENDEZVOUS AND MUSEUM OF THE MOUNTAIN MAN
The Green River Rendezvous re-creates the history of the1830s fur-trade era.
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By Mike Calabrese owboys once roamed pretty much everywhere west of the Mississippi and have outlived even their almost mythical epoch of the late 1800s. But mountain men, who made do with less (after all, cowboys always had their horses and cattle), pretty much went the way of the beaver hat by the late 1850s. And yet, the mountain man’s story is every bit the match of the cowboy’s for color and lore, especially when it comes to the “Winning of the West.” For every Bat Masterson, Bill Hickok, and Wyatt Earp, there was an equally notable mountain man. John C. Fremont and William Sublette have a couple of Wyoming counties and mountain peaks named after them. Jedediah Smith and Kit
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Carson have certainly garnered enough press to River Rendezvous, held in 1833 in the “Valley of earn their places in popular Western culture. And the Green.” Over 3,000 Indians, hundreds of mountain man Jim Bridger is mountain men, fur so revered around here that trappers, and missionThe mountain man’s story is visitors to Wyoming will find aries assembled there to every bit the match of the no fewer than 21 places honorbarter and trade their ing him. Fitting, then, that a goods. The cry “Meet cowboy’s for color and lore, .40 caliber half-stock rifle of me on the Green!” was especially when it comes to his should end up in the rea reminder and a reasgion’s most famous collection surance to early trapthe “Winning of the West.” of mountain man history and pers, who spent long memorabilia – the Museum of and isolated winters the Mountain Man in Pinedale, Wyoming. gathering beaver pelts. The call reached traders Even more fitting, the museum is situated on a who traveled countless miles on hazardous, often hill not far from the site of the original Green life-threatening trails. These rendezvous some-
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Available at the pub and in stores throughout Wyoming
HAPPY HOUR M-F 4-6 PM Full menu with specialty burgers Wine & Liquor • Event Catering Daily Specials • Free Wireless
CALL 307-367-BEER (2337) 402 PINE ST, DOWNTOWN PINEDALE, WY
www.windriverbrewingco.com
76th Annual Green River Rendezvous Thursday July 7 – Sunday July 10, 2011 Pinedale, Wyoming
Main Events...
www.museumofthemountainman.com
www.sublettecountylibrary.org
Photo Courtesy of Pam McCulloch at Pinedale Online!
• Green River Rendezvous Pageant • Museum of the Mountain Man Events • Vendor Street Fair • Rendezvous Rodeos • Sublette County Library Rendezvous Book Sale • “Spirit of the Winds” Fireworks Show • 3-on-3 Rendezvous Basketball Tournament • Rendezvous Parade • Kid’s Fishing Derby & BBQ • Trader’s Row • Native American Dance Performance
Sublette County Chamber of Commerce
307-367-2242 888-285-7282 19 East Pine St. PO Box 176 Pinedale, WY 82941
Green River Rendezvous Pageant Association Pinedale Traders
www.meetmeonthegreen.com
Painting By Bonnie Nelson
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Pinedale, Wyoming
Plan a trip to come and see us today! Nestled at the base of the Wind River Mountains, we are the perfect Base Camp to all of your summer and Winter adventures! Please call or go online for more information
www.pinedalesuites.hamptoninn.com
West Side of Pinedale 55 Bloomfield Ave Pinedale, Wyoming 82941
307-367-6700 www.sublettechamber.com
Photo courtesy PinedaleOnline.com
Taste our award winning beers brewed with pure glacier water
Museum continued documents, photos, times lasted for mounted animals, months. Time even the Chief Amerenough to get supican Horse Warrior plies, renew friendSociety tipi help bring ships, swap stories, the days of the mountrade, tipple and, of tain man alive. The course, debauch. museum also colorOf the 16 renfully showcases westdezvous held durern wildlife, Indians, ing the height of fur trapping, wagon the Rocky Mountrains, mountain tain fur trade, six men, and bison in its were located in the spacious 15,000Green River Valley. square-foot facility. Exhibits at the Bridger’s rifle, given museum provide a to him in 1853, was at good starting point one time part of the for visitors heading Buffalo Bill collecto the 74th Annual tion. Fortunately, it Green River Ren- At the Museum of the Mountain Man, demonstrations has found a permadezvous, a re-cre- show visitors various skills, including how to set a trap. nent home in this reation of those original mountain man gatherings. warding and informative setting. This year’s rendezvous, replete with activities for The Museum of the Mountain Man is open the entire family, runs July 7-10. The Rendezvous daily from 9 a.m. until 5 p.m., through September Pageant, where over 200 members of the com- 30. Admission fees are $5 for adults, $4 for seniors, munity perform in original costumes, is held at and $3 for kids 6-12 years old. For more informathe Pinedale Rodeo Grounds. For more informa- tion call toll free (877) 686-6266, go online at mution visit the Green River Rendezvous Pageant seumofthemountainman.com. or visit the Association’s website at meetmeonthegreen.com museum’s Facebook page. or call (307) 367-2242. Mike Calabrese is a musician, editor, and The museum captures the ways and lore of writer living in Jackson Hole. these hardy individuals. Clothing, artifacts, rare
s
Photo: Bob Woodall
et in the upper Wind River valley, the gemlike town of Dubois, Wyoming, is framed by Butch Cassidyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s haunting Dubois Badlands to the east, the stark Absaroka Range to the north, and the majestic Wind River Range to the south. And itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only an hourâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s scenic drive from Jackson (to the west) and Riverton (to the east). A stroll down the main street, most of it still appointed with boardwalks, yields a taste of Wyomingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Old West flavor. Log buildings, saloons, quaint shops, and even tipis welcome the travel-weary visitor. The nearby Wind River Range, revered by Native Americans for years before the white manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s arrival, is replete with colorful history and wildlife. Shoshone and Sheepeater Indians traveled and hunted throughout this range, which borders the 2.2-million-acre Wind River Reservation, today home to Northern Arapaho (see story on â&#x20AC;&#x153;Arapaho Experience,â&#x20AC;? page 14) and Eastern Shoshone tribes. Backpackers and hikers to the Winds can choose from nearly 800 miles of trails lacing the rangeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vast, stunning beauty. Over 150 glaciers work the Winds, beckoning hikers and climbers Pinedale continued recreation ranges from fly fishing to waterskiing. Start with Fremont Lake, just four miles from Pinedale. At 11 miles long and 600 feet deep, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the second largest natural lake in Wyoming. Fremont sports several public boat launches, a marina, a lodge and restaurant, and numerous campsites. Fishing, waterskiing, sailing, canoeing, kayaking, and swimming are some of the ways to ply its waters. Fremont is one of 10 large glacial lakes strung like a jeweled necklace along the foothills of the Winds. Deeper into the mountains, over 1,300 lakes, many teeming with trout, dot the landscape. From one of these mountain lakes, a major artery of the West, the historic Green River, begins its journey. The main tributary of the Colorado River, the Greenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coveted waters sustain many a Western town. And itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a favorite of anglers seeking to hook one of its six species of trout. The upper stretches can be reached from the road, but floating is a preferred access for vast reaches of isolated river. Keep in mind that many other streams emanating from the mountains also hold prime fishing spots. Hiking & Backpacking One of the best ways to experience the Winds is to hit the trail. From dozens of trailheads a vast network of paths spread into the mountains. They range in scope from easy strolls to arduous up-up and then up-some-more treks into the heart of the wilderness. A great way to ease the strain of a 50-pound pack is to rent a llama. These friendly animals can haul up to 60 pounds of gear, freeing the backpacker to enjoy the hike without the burden. w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
alike. The Winds are studded with lakes and creeks, themselves teeming with rainbow, cutthroat, golden, Downtown Dubois, Wyoming brook, German brown, and Mackinaw trout. Anglers should come well supplied and ready to reel. And much of the wildlife that Yellowstone visitors can spy also roams the Winds. One of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most magnificent big game animals, the Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep, is showcased in the Dubois area, both indoors and outdoors. The Whiskey Mountain Wildlife Habitat Area, just minutes from town, is home to North Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest wintering herd of Rocky Mountain
bighorn sheep. And the National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center (page 15), in downtown Dubois, provides an awe-inspiring venue for the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most impressive display of these noble creatures. Dubois is not some sleepy little Wyoming town scrambling for tourists. Dubois is that little diamond doorway into the historic past and todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s great outdoors. Want to know more? Call: 307-455-2556. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Mike Calabrese
Camping Over 20 developed public campgrounds are available throughout the area, most managed by either the BTNF or BLM. Away from these established campgrounds trekkers can pitch a tent most anywhere on public lands. Check regulations first, however, as limitations apply. And remember: this is bear country. Climbing The Wind River Range offers all levels of rock climbing and mountaineering challenges, from simple bouldering to extended ascents of mountain peaks. Sitting astride the Continental Divide, the granitic rock of the Winds provides many excellent climbing routes. In the northern end lies glaciated Gannett Peak. At 13,804 feet itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the highest point in Wyoming and shelters the largest glacier in the U.S. Rocky Mountains. The Cirque of the Towers at the southern end of the range is
nationally, if not internationally, renowned for its sheer rock walls and scenic grandeur. Pingora, Lizard Head, Sharkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Nose, and Warbonnet are some of the challenging peaks to scale. Mountain Biking With hundreds of miles of backcountry roads and trails, mountain-biking enthusiasts have plenty of options. Ranging from 7,000 to well over 10,000 feet, terrain varies from flat and gentle prairie to steep mountain slopes. Biking is allowed on the BTNF and BLM lands, but not in the Bridger Wilderness area. Exploring Your Vacation From exploring history to exploring the peaks, from mounting a trusty steed to mounting a modern mountain bike, Pinedale and the Upper Green River Valley can provide most of what anyone would desire in a Western vacation. Heck, you might not even miss seeing Old Faithful Geyser.
LAKESIDE LODGE Western hospitality, privacy & informal comfort surrounded by pristine wilderness.
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Located on the shore of Fremont Lake 4 miles north of Pinedale, Wyoming
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877-755-LAKE 307-367-2221
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www.lakesidelodge.com
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DINING GUIDE Cadillac Grille
Giovanni’s Italian Restaurant
Serving all natural meat & game, fresh seafood & pasta. Innovative dishes prepared with the freshest ingredients.
FINE ITALIAN DINING WITH OLD WORLD CHARM • Best dining value in Jackson Hole •All entrées include choice of salad for FREE! •Private dining room available for private parties or family gatherings • Separate dining room with bar seating & flat screen TVs •Open daily from 5pm till close •Reservations Welcome •Dine-in or Take-out
Premium well drinks, an excellent wine list & microbrews. Join us nightly in our lounge for Happy Hour 5-7 pm Lunch at 11:30am; Dinner at 5:30pm Next door to BILLY’S GIANT HAMBURGERS served throughout the day & evening. On the Jackson Town Square, 55 N. Cache, 307-733-3279 www.cadillac-grille.com
690 South Hwy 89, Jackson 307-734-1970 www.jhgiovannis.com
Dornan’s Chuckwagon
At the entrance to GTNP In Moose –12 miles North of Jackson 307-733-2415 ext 203 www.dornans.com
Dornan’s Pizza & Pasta Company
Open since 1948 Serving good old-fashioned cowboy food, from all-you-can-eat sourdough pancakes at breakfast to grilled-to-order sandwiches at lunch, & our traditional, all-you-can-eat chuckwagon dinner, cooked over a wood fire in dutch ovens. Dine outside, with our breathtaking views of the Tetons and Snake River or in the Teepee. Open for Breakfast & Lunch only on Friday & Saturdays. Free Hootenanny on Monday’s 6-9pm
Snake River Brewing
Come enjoy our incredible views of the Tetons and Snake River while dining inside or on one of our decks. Serving homemade soups, salads, specialty pizzas, calzones, pastas and sandwiches. Children’s menu available. Open daily – summer hours – 11:30-9:30pm At the entrance to Grand Teton National Park In Moose – 12 miles north of Jackson 307-733-2415 ext 204, www.dornans.com
An American Bistro
Award winning brews & incredible food!
Owned and operated by local chefs with a passion for good food, Trio features a variety of cuisines in a relaxed atmosphere.
Food Served 11:30am–11:00pm Happy Hours 4:00pm–6:00pm Daily Specials!
Extensive Wine Menu • Elixers • Beers Single Malt Scotch Cognac • Liqueurs D i n n e r N i g h t l y a t 5: 3 0 p . m . 4 5 S o u t h G l e nw o o d • J a c k s o n 7 34.8 03 8 for R e s e r va t i o n s w w w. B i s t ro Tr i o . co m
265 S. Millward St., Jackson Hole 307-739-Beer (2337) www.snakeriverbrewing.com
Restaurant & Phone Cadillac Grille & Billy’s Burgers 733-3279 Dornan’s Chuckwagon 307-733-2415 ext. 203 Dornan’s Pizza & Pasta 307-733-2415 ext. 204 Giovanni’s Italian Restaurant 734-1970 Snake River Brewing Company and Restaurant 739-BEER Trio – An American Bistro 734-8038
Reservations
Child, Senior
Credit Cards
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Game, Steaks, Wood-Fired Pizzas Pasta & Seafood Full Breakfast, Lunch, Grilled Sandwiches, Dinner: Dutch Oven Buffet & Salad Bar Pizza, Calzones, Pasta, Soups, Salads Italian Wood Fired Pizza, Pastas,Burgers Sandwiches, Soups & Salads American Bistro
Reservations: RQ-Required; RC-Recommended; AC-Accepted; SG-Suggested; Y-Yes; N-No; OT-Opentable.com. Bar Service: Y-Beer, Wine & Cocktails; B/W-Beer & Wine only; Credit Cards: AE American Express; DC-Diners; DS-Discover; MC-Master Card; VI-Visa Take Out & Delivery: TO-Take-out; DL-Delivery; Child, Senior Citizens: Special menu items or discounts, CH-Children; SR-Seniors.
All Jackson Hole restaurants are voluntarily SMOKE FREE. Pick up a copy of the Jackson Hole Dining Guide or view at www.focusproductions.com
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LODGING GUIDE
Grand Targhee Resort
Hostel
Newly renovated! Enjoy a comfortable & inexpensive stay in Teton Village at the base of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. We have private rooms & beds in shared bunkrooms. Both options come with a private bathroom. High season: 1 or 2 persons $79, 3 or 4 Persons $89. Low season: 1 or 2 persons $69, 3 or 4 Persons $79.Bunk room:$25-32.
Grand Targhee offers convenient, comfortable, and flexible lodging both on-mountain and in Teton Valley. Whether you desire to be at the Resort or on Ski Hill Road you have immediate access to the areaʼs summer adventures including mountain biking, horseback riding, rafting, fly fishing, and much more. Alta, Wyoming 83414 1-800-TARGHEE 307-353-2300 www.GrandTarghee.com
Box 583, Teton Village, Wyoming 83025 307-733-3415 www.thehostel.us, info@thehostel.us
Motel 6 Resort in Jackson
Jackson Hole Super 8
Two miles from historic town square, 1 block from free bus shuttle, Next to Kmart shopping center with shops and restaurants. All guest rooms were completely remodeled spring 2009. Guest rooms surround a park like setting for picnics and our swimming pool. Guest laundries, free local calls, free morning coffee,WIFI access & expanded cable. Pet friendly & kids under 18 stay free 600 So. Hwy 89, Jackson, Wy 83001 307-733-1620 Fax: 307-734-9175 Reservations Number 1-800-466-8356 www.motel6.com
Experience true Western hospitality in the heart of Jackson Hole. Just steps away from the free city bus and ski shuttle. Complimentary breakfast, evening popcorn, free wireless internet, microwave/refrigerator, cable TV with HBO and free local calls. Ski packages & group rates. 750 S Hwy 89, Jackson, WY 83001 800-800-8000 / 307-733-6833 www.jacksonholesuper8.com jacksonholesuper8@wyom.net
Mountain Property Management
Painted Buffalo Inn
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We offer a wide selection of Jackson Hole lodging, featuring vacation rental homes, condos and cabins to suit all tastes and budgets. A broad selection of properties cater to the diverse requirements of visitors. Rentals range in size from one-bedroom condos to custom luxury mountain estates. Many properties are located minutes from Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, Grand Teton National Park or the southern entrance to Yellowstone National Park. Jackson, Wyoming 83001 1-800-992-9948 307-733-1648 www.mpmjh.com
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Discover the color of a great vacation at the Painted Buffalo Inn. We offer comfortable rooms for the budget conscious traveler. Unwind in our sauna or indoor pool and wake up to a continental breakfast. Weʼre located 3 blocks from the town square with a shuttle stop on property. Mention this ad when booking and receive 5% off your stay. 400 West Broadway, Jackson, WY 83001 800-288-3866 / 307-733-4340 www.paintedbuffaloinn.com info@paintedbuffaloinn.com
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($) Cost Per Night up to $100; ($$) Cost Per Night up to $250; ($$$) Cost Per Night over $250 w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
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A C T I V I T I E S –B U S I N E S S E S –S E R V I C E S
ACCOMMODATIONS & RV PARKS A L P I N E , W YO M I N G
BULL MOOSE LODGE 22 cozy rooms furnished with knotty pine paneling, hand made lamps & furniture, red cedar bathrooms. At the entrance to Snake River Canyon on Hwy 26 & 89, 40 minutes from Jackson Hole. 307-654-7593 or 1-877-498-7993 pg 38 FLYING SADDLE RESORT Offers spectacular mountain views, a Steak & Seafood House & Western bar. Convenient access to a wide variety of outdoor activities makes us the perfect choice for your next vacation. www.flyingsaddleresort.com. 877-772-4422 pg 38
CO DY , W YO M I N G BUFFALO BILL’S CODY/YELLOWSTONE COUNTRY Information center, 836 Sheridan Av., 800-393-2639 www.yellowstonecountry.org pg 41
D U B O I S , W YO M I N G TRIANGLE C RANCH 3-6 day traditional summer dude ranch vacations with programs for the whole family. (800) 661-4928 or 307- 455-2225
G R A N D TA R G H E E , W YO M I N G GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Stay and play! Come enjoy a comfortable mountain getaway with lodging both on-mountain & in Teton Valley. See stunning Teton views and enjoy scenic chairlift rides, biking, hiking, horse-back riding, fly fishing & family dining. Call 1-800TARGHEE pg 49 & 55
J AC K S O N , W YO M I N G MOTEL 6 Remodeled! Remarkable! Clean, friendly, affordable. Pet friendly, kids under 18 stay free. Outdoor pool & picnic courtyard open in summer. Guest laundry. WI-FI. 600 So. Hwy 89, motel6.com, 307-733-1620 Reservations call: 800-4MOTEL6 pg 55 MOUNTAIN PROPERTY MANAGEMENT offers a wide selection of Jackson Hole lodging, featuring vacation rental homes, condos, and cabins to suit all tastes and budgets. www.mpmjh.com, 800-9929948 or 307-733-1648 PG 55 PAINTED BUFFALO INN Offers comfortable lodging in the heart of downtown Jackson, 3-blocks from the Town Square. Swimming pool, sauna & shuttle stops are just a few of the conveniences we offer. 400 W. Broadway, www.paintedbuffaloinn.com 800-288-3866 pg 55 SUPER 8 Experience true Western hospitality in the heart of Jackson Hole. Complimentary breakfast, evening popcorn, free wireless internet, microwave/refrigerator. Custom packages & group rates. www.jacksonholesuper8.com, 750 S Hwy 89, Jackson, 800-8008000/307-733-6833 pg 55 VIRGINIAN LODGE 170 rooms, jacuzzi suites, swimming pool, restaurant, saloon, liquor store, convention facilities. 750 W Broadway. 307-733-2792 or 800-262-4999 pg 34 VIRGINIAN RV PARK 105 large spaces, 64 pull-through spaces. 50 amp electric, full sewer hook-up, cable TV, laundry, swimming pool, restaurant, saloon and liquor store. 307-733-7189 pg 34
PINEDALE, WYOMING HAMPTON INN & SUITES PINEDALE, We have 102, comfortable, clean rooms! Amenities include fitness room, pool, business center, complimentary breakfast, laundry/valet service. Call for information on one of our event discounts. West side of Pinedale, www.pinedalesuites.hamptoninn.com 307-367-6700 pg 52 LAKESIDE LODGE RESORT AND MARINA On the shore of Fremont Lake, 4-miles north of Pinedale. Privacy & informal comfort surrounded by pristine wilderness. Resort includes main lodge & restaurant, deluxe log cabins, & marina, with magnificent views of the lake & the Wind River Mountain Range. www.lakesidelodge.com, 307-367-2221 pg 53 SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE For full listing go to www.sublettechamber.com or PinedaleOnline.com 888-285-7282 pg 52
Village Mix brochure or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com or call 1-866-749-4077 pg 46
BICYCLE: RENTAL, SALES, & SERVICE J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G FAT TIRE TOURS Guided mountain-bike adventures on the Elk Refuge, Snow King Mountain, Shadow Mountain, and the BridgerTeton Forest. Beginners thru experts. Great Fun. 520 West Broadway. 307-733-5335 pg 27 FITZGERALD’S BICYCLES Voted “Best Bike Shop” 2009, 2010, & 2011 by Jackson locals! Check us out for all your rental, sales, service, and fitting needs. www.FitzgeraldsBicycles.com 307-734-6886 pg 29 HEADWALL RECYCLE SPORTS Check us out for great gently used outdoor clothing and gear. We have high quality consignment items at great prices for the whole family. Located in K mart Plaza 307-734-8022. PG 29 HOBACK SPORTS Jackson’s largest & complete bike shop. Staffed by professionals who can rent, repair, fit & accessorize. Dealer for Specialized, Trek, Haro and Santa Cruz. Bike tours daily. 520 West Broadway. 307-733-5335 pg 27 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS Bike Rentals for the entire family in the Bridger Center, Teton Village. Free Teewinot lift access with full day rentals at Jackson Hole Sports. 307-739-2687 pg 47 PEPI’S AT THE ALPENHOF Bike rentals, clothing & accessories for biking & hiking, at Alpenhof in Teton Village 307-733-6838. pg 21 TETON VILLAGE Several sports stores rent, sell and service bicycles. www.gotetonvillage.com or call 1-866-749-4077 pg 47
T E TO N V A L L E Y- D R I G G S / V I C TO R , I D A H O GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Mountain bike rentals, single & double track riding from base. A variety of downhill riding from top of chairlift. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 49
BOATING, SCENIC & WHITEWATER J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G MAD RIVER BOAT TRIPS Is it the guide? Is it the river? Is it the experience? Here at Mad River we believe it is all three. Grab a paddle and see for yourself. We guarantee it will be a trip you'll remember for a lifetime. www.mad-river.com, 307-733-6203, rafting@madriver.com pg 23 O.A.R.S. Join O.A.R.S. for a kayaking tour on Yellowstone Lake in Yellowstone National Park or a rafting and kayaking adventure in Grand Teton National Park. www.oars.com/w pg 25 SANDS WILDWATER RIVER TRIPS In our 5th decade, our boatmen have a deep knowledge of every turn, rapid, & current. We've taken tens of thousands of people safely down river, including the President of the United States. Variety of scenic & whitewater trips, breakfast & overnight trips. 307-733-4410/800-358-8184 pg 23
P I N E D A L E , W YO M I N G LAKESIDE LODGE & MARINA Offers marina services, gas, boat slips—seasonal & temporary, pontoon, small fishing boat, canoe, kayak, paddle boat & jet boat rentals. Quick tie ups for those stopping for a meal, purchase beer, or to visit. On Fremont Lake, 4–miles from Pinedale. www.lakesidelodge.com, 307-367-2221 pg 53
CAMERAS, BINOCULARS & PHOTOGRAPHY
CLOTHING-OUTDOOR GEAR & APPAREL D U B O I S , W YO M I N G
WIND RIVER GEAR Technical clothing, footware, rain gear, casual wear, trekking poles, tents, sleeping bags, camp gear, optics, books, GPS, compasses, maps, even canine gear for your best friend. ....where outdoor adventures begin. www.windrivergearshop.com, 19 N. First St., 307-455-3468, pg 13
J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G HEADWALL RECYCLE SPORTS Check us out for great gently used outdoor clothing and gear. We have high quality consignment items at great prices for the whole family. Located in K mart Plaza 307-734-8022. PG 29 JACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 43rd Anniversary! Locally owned & operated, Jackson’s premier outdoor store, extensive selection of brand name products needed for any outdoor pursuit. On the Square in Jackson 307-733-3270, www.jackdennis.com pg 21 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS In the Bridger Center, Teton Village, is your one-stop shop for an active summer outing. Sportswear, shoes, accessories & Resort wear for the entire family. Mountain bike rentals and lift tickets. 307-739-2687 pg 47 PEPI’S AT THE ALPENHOF Clothing & accessories for hiking, biking & bike rentals, at Alpenhof in Teton Village 307-733-6838. pg 21 TETON VILLAGE boasts a wide range of outdoor apparel stores. Pick up the Free Village Mix brochure in all Teton Village businesses for the listings or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com pg 47
DINING–RESTAURANTS–DELI–GROCERIES CASINO, LOUNGES & LIQUOR STORES A L P I N E , W YO M I N G BULL MOOSE RESTAURANT Great steaks & smoked prime rib, we can accommodate gatherings of all sizes, private dining room available. 307-654-7593 or 1-877-498-7993 pg 38 BULL MOOSE SALOON & LIQUOR STORE Live music & concert series. Large dance floor. Outdoor deck has spectacular views of the mountains. 307-654-7593 or 1-877-498-7993 pg 38 FLYING SADDLE STEAK & SEAFOOD HOUSE serving hand-cut Black Angus beef, our famous all-you-can-eat salad bar, Treat yourself to drinks and a delicious Western meal in an authentic Wyoming atmosphere! 877-772-4422 pg 38 FLYING SADDLE BAR AND LOUNGE Authentic Wyoming atmosphere, complete with saddle bar stools. Lounge menu specials, and an unbeatable happy hour – 4PM to 6PM 877-772-4422 pg 38 MOUNTAIN VIEW NATURAL FOOD MARKET Food for Life! Organic produce, dairy, and breads, groceries, supplements, pet supplies, gluten-free products, bulk foods, personal care products, hormonefree & antibiotic-free meats 140 Hwy 89, 307-654-LIFE (5433) MonSat: 10am-8pm, Sun: 12-6pm pg 38 UDI’S GLUTEN FREE FOOD The # 1 selling Gluten Free Granola at Natural Grocery Stores www.udisglutenfree.com pg 13
G R A N D TA R G H E E , W YO M I N G GRAND TARGHEE serves up a variety of fare at reasonable prices. Find dining at the Branding Iron Grille, quick snacks at Snorkel’s or Wild Bill’s Grille, or a full service cafeteria. The Trap Bar & Grille is home to great food, spirits and local entertainment in a casual atmosphere. pg 49
J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G
J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G
HOSTEL A friendly lodge with private & shared bunk rooms, all have private baths & maid service. Rates range from $69 for private rooms & $25 for shared bunks. At the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, in Teton Village, Wyoming. www.thehostel.us 307-733-3415 pg 55 JACKSON HOLE RESORT LODGING Conveniently located next to the Teton Village Market, lodging & accommodation for all seasons. Affordable condos to luxury vacation homes, for family getaways and reunions. 800-443-8613, 307-733-3990 pg 55 TETON VILLAGE A wide variety of lodging choices from high end to very affordable are available in Teton Village. Pick up the Free Village Mix brochure in Teton Village or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com or call 1-866-749-4077 pg 46
DD CAMERA CORRAL Jackson’s oldest full service camera store. Authorized dealer: Canon, Sony, Nikon, Leica, & Pentax. Binoculars, film, frames, & accessories. Friendly & knowledgeable staff. 2-hour film & digital processing. 60 So. Cache, across from Eddie Bauer. 307-7333831 pg 2 & 59 FOCUS PRODUCTIONS, INC. Publishers of Mountain Country, Jackson Hole Skier & JH Dining Guide. Commercial & editorial photography & stock photo library. 307-733-6995 www.focusproductions.com PAUL MARTIN’S PHOTO SAFARIS Embark on a relaxed, educational photo safari through Teton & Yellowstone. Photographers looking to hone their wildlife & scenic skills and curious environmental observers are welcome on board our Sprinter Van for a journey into the majestic mountains that form the valley of Jackson Hole. 877607-6377 pg 13 WILD BY NATURE GALLERY features the wildlife & landscape photography of Henry H. Holdsworth.T Behind the Wort Hotel, 95 West Deloney wildbynaturegallery.com 307-733-8877 pg 29
ART–ANTIQUES–JEWELRY–FURNITURE
CLIMBING GUIDES & CLIMBING WALL
BILLY’S GIANT HAMBURGERS The locals' first choice for a great half pound burger, hot dogs and sandwiches. In a lively diner atmosphere. Daily from 11:30 thru dinner. Counter service & takeout. Next to the Cadillac Grille, on the Square. 307-733-3279 pg 60 CADILLAC GRILLE A locals' favorite for over 20 years. Choice steaks, game, fresh seafood & pasta. Innovative dishes prepared with care & precision for the discerning palate. Lunch & dinner. Premium well drinks. Bar menu. 2-for-1 happy hour 5-7daily. Opens daily at 11:30. On the Jackson Town Square. 307-733-3279 pg 54 & 60 COULOIR AT JH MOUNTAIN RESORT Step off the Bridger Gondola 3,000’ above the valley at 9,095’ for fine dining at the Couloir Restaurant, a truly unique dining experience. Open evenings June 29-Sept 9 (except Sat), Cocktails & appetizers on the “Deck.” Ride FREE 4:30-10p.m. 307-739-2654 pg 47 DORNAN’S CHUCKWAGON Good old-fashioned cowboy food, allyou-can-eat sourdough pancakes at breakfast, hearty sandwiches at lunch & our all-you-can-eat Chuckwagon dinner, cooked in dutch ovens over a wood fire. Next to the giant teepee in Moose. 12 miles north of Jackson. 733-2415 ext 203 pg 54 DORNAN’S PIZZA & PASTA Enjoy great food & the best view of the Tetons. Full-service bar. Soups, salads, pizza, pastas, calzones,’ & sandwiches. Daily 11:30-9:30pm 733-2415 ext 204. Next to the giant teepee in Moose, 12 miles north of Jackson. 733-2415 ext 204 pg 54 GIOVANNI’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT Fine dining with Old World Charm. Best value in Jackson Hole, all entrées include choice of salad for FREE! Private dining room available. Separate dining room with bar seating & flat screen TVs. Daily from 5pm till close, 690 South Hwy 89, jhgiovannis.com, 307-734-1970 pg 54 JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo: jerky, salami, smoked roast, steaks & burger. Elk: steaks, burgers & jerky. Pick up your steak for the BBQ. Gift packs smoked trout & more. WE SHIP! Free Samples south of town in Smith’s Plaza, 800-543-6328 / 733-4159. www.jhbuffalomeat.com pg 5 JACKSON HOLE DINING GUIDE This 96 page magazine is a compendium of menus from the areas restaurants, with index of food types, along with maps to restaurants. Pick up a copy at your lodge or view on line at www.focusproductions.com pg 4
T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G
J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G DANSHELLEY JEWELERS: Wyoming’s Finest Jewelry Experience since 1976! From diamonds & elk ivory, to Teton & wildlife originals & distinctive wedding sets. This gallery transcends the ordinary! Downtown in Gaslight Alley, just off the Town Square. www.DanShelley.com 125 N. Cache. 307-733-2259 pg 3 HINES GOLDSMITHS Jackson’s premier gallery of fine jewelry designers since 1970. Elegant one-of-a-kind pieces. The original designers of the Teton pendants, charm & rings, plus a large selection of unique charms and charm beads. 80 Center Street, east side of town square. www.hinesgold.com 307-733-5599 PG 11 JC JEWELERS Jackson's premier fine jewelry store. Specializing in custom designs in bridal and fine colored stone jewelry using ecofriendly precious metals and gems. Known for integrity, knowledge, and creativity. PG 5 TETON VILLAGE Throughout the summer season Teton Village hosts several art and antique shows. For a list pick up the Free
56
G R A N D TA R G H E E , W YO M I N G GRAND TARGHEE CLIMBING WALL Experience the fun and challenge of sport climbing at the base area. Our staff will help coach you to the top of our specially designed climbing wall. pg 49
J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN GUIDES Since 1968 Offering guided climbs and rock climbing instruction in the Tetons, Winds, Beartooths, Red Rocks, Moab & Indian Creek and City of Rocks. 800239-7642 www.jhmg.com pg 31 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT CLIMBING WALL A variety of climbs from easy to complex. pg 47
P I N E D A L E , W YO M I N G SUBLETTE COUNTY Hiking & climbing in the Wind River & Wyoming Ranges. For info go to www.sublettechamber.com or PinedaleOnline.com 888-285-7282 pg 52
T E TO N & Y E L L OW STO N E A DV E N T U R E G U I D E 2 0 1 1
JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT At Teton Village, over 12 restaurants offer breakfast, lunch & dinner, from gourmet burgers, pizza to distinct American cuisine. pg 47 McDONALD’S® OF JACKSON HOLE Great Tastes, Affordable Choices. Featuring McDonald's freshly prepared breakfast & regular menu favorites. Wi-Fi availability for your convenience. 5:00am-midnight daily. 1110 W. Broadway Hwy 22. pg 11 MEAD RANCH NATURAL BEEF For over 100 years, our family raised the highest quality Angus Hereford beef in the shadows of Tetons. Grass-fed beef on conservation land, grain finished, steroid free, antibiotic free, humanely processed, dry aged. Ask for it at finer Jackson Hole restaurants & grocers. 307-734-3911 PG 34 SNAKE RIVER BREWERY & RESTAURANT The Great American Beer Festival’s Small Brewery of The Year, 2000 & 2001. Serving tasty brews, burgers, delicious pizzas, pastas & sandwiches. Free WiFi. From 11:30 am to Midnight, 7 days a week. 739-2337 PG 54 TETON VILLAGE has a wide array of food and drink establishments are scattered throughout. Pick up the Village Mix brochure for the listings, or on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com 866-749-4077 pg 46 TETON VILLAGE CHUCKWAGON COOKOUTS Treat yourself to a trail ride or covered wagon ride to a cookout. Western atmosphere with a Dutch oven dinner & campfire entertainment. Tues–Sat. Departures at 5:00 & 5:30pm. tetonvillagetrailrides.com. For reservations 307-733-2674 pg 47 TRIO-AN AMERICAN BISTRO Owned & operated by local chefs with a passion for good food. Trio features a variety of cuisines in a relaxed atmosphere. Extensive wine menu,elixers, beers, single malt scotch, cognac, liqueurs. Dinner Nightly at 5:30p.m., 45 S. Glenwood. www.BistroTrio.com for Reservations 734-8038 pg 54 UDI’S GLUTEN FREE FOOD The # 1 selling Gluten Free Granola at Natural Grocery Stores www.udisglutenfree.com pg 13 VIRGINIAN SALOON Restaurant, saloon, liquor store, convention facilities, 750 W Broadway. 307-733-2792 or 800-262-4999. pg 34
P I N E D A L E , W YO M I N G LAKESIDE LODGE RESTAURANT Dine inside or out on the deck and enjoy fine food and spirits in a casual atmosphere with breathtaking views of Fremont Lake and the Wind River Mountains.www.lakesidelodge.com, 307-367-2221 pg 53 WIND RIVER BREWING COMPANY Located in downtown Pinedale, Wyoming. The pub features handcrafted superior brews and many pub favorites including salads, homemade soups, appetizers, burgers, and fine steaks; all with generous portions.PG 52 WIND RIVER PIZZA & PASTA ”Best Pizza in Wyoming!”Dough & sauces homemade daily, organic and highest quality ingredients make for phenomenal food! Panini’s, incredible salads, pastas, & soup, salad and pizza bar. 4 Country Club Lane, 307-367-6760 pg 53 UDI’S GLUTEN FREE FOOD The # 1 selling Gluten Free Granola at Natural Grocery Stores www.udisglutenfree.com pg 13
R I V E RTO N , W YO M I N G WIND RIVER CASINO Over 750 slot machines, 10 table games, restaurant. 2 miles south of Riverton on HWY 789, windrivercasino.com, 866-657-1604 PG 15
TETON VILLAGE TRAIL RIDES Take a horseback ride on the Historic Snake River Ranch with a real cowboy. Hourly rides. Quality mountain horses. Next to Teton Village. TetonVillageTrailrides.com, 307733-2674 pg 33 WAGONS WEST COVERED WAGON TREKS Relive pioneer days on a 2, 4 or 6 day trek into the Mt. Leidy highlands of Jackson Hole. Horseback riding, chuckwagon meals, campfire entertainment. Sleep in tent or wagon. wagons@silverstar.com 307-886-5284, 800-447-4711 pg 33 WESTBANK ANGLERS Home to Jackson Hole’s most experienced & seasoned fly fishing guides. Full & 1/2 day trips, beginner to experts. Snake, Green, New Fork & South Fork Rivers & Yellowstone National Park. 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474, www.WestBank.com pg 22 YELLOWSTONE OUTFITTERS 2 & 4 hr & all-day horseback rides into Teton Wilderness. 6-day 1st class horse-pack trips into Yellowstone & Thorofare Rivers. Orvis-endorsed outfitter. Box Creek base camp east of Moran Jct. @ 23590 Buffalo Valley Road. June, July, Aug & Sept. Reservations needed, 307-543-2418, 800-447-4711 pg 33 SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE Hiking, fishing, riding in the Wind River & Wyoming Ranges. For full listing go to www.sublettechamber.com or PinedaleOnline.com 888-285-7282 pg 52
MEDICAL SERVICES & EMERGENCY CARE J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G ST. JOHN’S FAMILY HEALTH & URGENT CARE Walk-ins welcome. X-ray & laboratory services on-site so doctors can assess & treat your condition promptly. Open extended hours, evenings & weekends. In the Smith’s Plaza, 1415 S. Hwy 89, 307-739-8999 pg 45 ST. JOHN’S EMERGENCY DEPARTMENT Staffed 24/7 by board-certified emergency medicine physicians. St. John’s offers comprehensive hospital care including diagnostic imaging, certified Clinical Laboratory & Surgery Center services. 625 E. Broadway, 307-733-3636 pg 45
MUSIC GRAND TARGHEE MUSIC FESTIVALS Great food, vendors, games, part of our summer music festivals. Tent camp in our beautiful forest during events. It starts with the 7th Annual Targhee Fest, July 1517. Next is the 24rd Annual Grand Targhee Bluegrass Festival, Aug 12-14. www.grandtarghee.com pg 49 NOTEWORTHY MUSIC AGENCY Provides entertainment for all types of occasions. Call Mike Calabrese, 307-733-5459 pg 22 TETON VILLAGE Throughout the summer season Teton Village hosts musical performances. For a list pick up the Free Village Mix brochure or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com. pg 46
OUTDOOR SHOPS-FISHING-CAMPING-HIKING D U B O I S , W YO M I N G WIND RIVER GEAR Technical clothing, footware, rain gear, casual wear, trekking poles, tents, sleeping bags, camp gear, optics, books, GPS, compasses, maps, even canine gear for your best friend. ....where outdoor adventures begin. www.windrivergearshop.com, 19 N. First St., 307-455-3468, pg 13
FRISBEE GOLF
J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G
G R A N D TA R G H E E , W YO M I N G
HOBACK SPORTS Jackson’s largest & complete bike & outdoor shop. Staffed by professionals who can rent, repair, fit & accessorize. Hiking & running shoes and accessories. 520 West Broadway-#3. 307733-5335 pg 27 JACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 43rd Anniversary! Locally owned and operated. Extensive selection of brand name products for any outdoor pursuit. Hand-crafted flies, & superior service. On the Square in Jackson. 307-733-3270. www.jackdennis.com pg 21 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS In the Bridger Center, Teton Village, is your one-stop shop for an active summer outing. Sportswear, shoes, accessories & resort wear for the entire family. 307-739-2687 pg 47 TETON VILLAGE Several Outdoor stores in Teton Village have gear, clothing etc. to outfit you for any adventure. Pick up the Village Mix brochure or on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com. pg 47 WESTBANK ANGLERS Jackson Hole’s fly fishing experts & seasoned fly fishing guides. Most complete selection of flies & tackle available. Retail store on the Teton Village Road, just North of the Aspens. www.WestBank.com 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474 pg 22
GRAND TARGHEE RESORT 18-hole disk golf course. 1-800TARGHEE pg 49
T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G 9-HOLE FRISBEE GOLF Course starts at Jackson Hole Sports in Teton Village. Course is free, maps, info and discs available in the shop. 307-739-2687 pg 47
GIFTS–RETAIL SPECIALTIES J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G TETON VILLAGE Gift shops, apparel, sports equipment, at Jackson Hole Sports in the Bridger Center. 732-3618 pg 47 JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo & Elk steaks, burgers, jerky, salami & smoked roasts. Pick up your steak for the BBQ. Gift packs available, WE SHIP! SEE FOOD & RESTAURANTS pg 5 JACKSON HOLE RESORT STORE The official logo store of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Your source for logo apparel & gifts on the east side of the Jackson Town Square. 307-734-6045 pg 47
GUIDES & OUTFITTERS FISHING–HORSEBACK RIDING–SHOOTING D U B O I S , W YO M I N G THUNDER MOUNTAIN OUTFITTERS 3-6 day horse-pack, fishing, covered wagon & hunting trips into the Absaroka & Wind River Mountains. 800-661-4928 or 307-455-2225 pg 32
G R A N D TA R G H E E , W YO M I N G GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons, where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Go horseback riding in our panoramic backcountry. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 49
PARAGLIDING JH PARAGLIDING Tandem paragliding rides from the top of the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram—the experience of a lifetime. Instruction available. Reservations & rates in Café 6311 at the Nick Wilson’s at the base of the Bridger Gondola, (307) 690-4948 pg 47
RODEO CO DY , W YO M I N G CODY NITE RODEO Best of Buffalo Bill’s Wild West. All Rodeo Events. Nightly at 8:00, June 1– Aug. 31. Kid’s events, clowns, covered grandstand, free parking. Tickets available at the front gate & various businesses. 307-587-5155 or 800-207-0744 pg 43
TRAM—GONDOLA–CHAIRLIFTS
J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G
G R A N D TA R G H E E , W YO M I N G
A-OK CORRAL Come saddle up for a great outdoor adventure! We offer one hour, two hour, half day, and full day horseback rides. Located only 15 minutes south of town. www.horsecreekranch.com 307-733-6556 pg 33 JACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 43rd Anniversary! Exceptional guided fishing trips, hand-crafted flies, and superior service are the norm. On the Square in Jackson, 307-733-3270 & the Alpenhof in Teton Village, 307-733-6838. www.jackdennis.com pg 21 JACKSON HOLE SHOOTING EXPERIENCE Whether a novice shooter or experienced marksman, we provide premier shooting instruction and customized experiences year round. Focus on safe and unparalled fun. www.ShootingInJH.com, 307-690-7921 pg 35
GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Stay and play! Come enjoy a comfortable mountain getaway with lodging both on-mountain & in Teton Valley. See stunning Teton views and enjoy scenic chairlift rides, biking, hiking, horse-back riding, fly fishing & family dining. Call 1-800TARGHEE pg 49
w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G JACKSON HOLE AERIAL TRAM The NEW tram is here! Ride 4,139’ above the valley to 10,450’ and the alpine timberline environment. Take in the 360 degree panorama, naturalist on duty. The bigger cabins can accommodate up to 60 people. 307-739-2654 pg 47 JACKSON HOLE BRIDGER GONDOLA Ride 3,000’ above the valley
to 9,095’ to the Bridger Restaurant. Cocktails & appetizers on the “Deck,” June 29-Sept 10 (except Sat). Fine dining at the Couloir Restaurant June 27–Sept 9. Ride FREE 4:30-10p.m. 2-for-1 Happy Hour, 4:30-6:00 307-739-2654 pg 47 TEEWINOT CHAIRLIFT Ride the chairlift with your bike or on foot to access miles of single track for all types of riders & hiking trails into Grand Teton NP. Tickets (free with rental) & bike rentals at JH Sports in the Bridger Center, at the base of the lift. 307-739-2687 pg 47
WILDLIFE & PHOTO SAFARIS MUSEUMS & INTERPRETIVE CENTERS CO DY , W YO M I N G BUFFALO BILL HISTORICAL CENTER “One of the finest museums in the world.” Cody Fire Arms Museum, Whitney Gallery of Western Art, Plains Indian Museum, Buffalo Bill Museum & The Draper Museum of Natural History. 720 Sheridan Ave. BBHC.org, 307-5874771 pg 40
D U B O I S , W YO M I N G NATIONAL BIGHORN SHEEP INTERPRETIVE CENTER Enjoyable & educational experience."Sheep Mountain,"photos & hands-on exhibits draw visitors into the majestic range & habits of these magnificent animals. Gift shop. 9am-8pm daily. 307-455-3429 pg 15
J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G JACKSON HOLE MUSEUM Exhibits capture the spirit & culture of the early days of Jackson Hole. It features an outstanding collection of American Indian artifacts, fur trade era tools & firearms, & items from the ranching & pioneer settlement era. In our new location 225 N. Cache. jacksonholehistory.org pg 34 PAUL MARTIN’S PHOTO SAFARIS Embark on a relaxed, educational photo safari through Teton & Yellowstone. Photographers looking to hone their wildlife & scenic skills and curious environmental observers are welcome on board our Sprinter Van for a journey into the majestic mountains that form the valley of Jackson Hole. 877-607-6377 pg 13 RIVER RUNNERS MUSEUM Historic boats, rafts, artifacts & replicas take visitors into another era, when river running was a courageous & risky means of travel. In the Mad River Boat Trips “Wedge,” 1255 S Hwy 89, Jackson 307-733-6203 pg 23
P I N E D A L E , W YO M I N G 76th ANNUAL GREEN RIVER RENDEZVOUS PAGEANT This hourlong re-enactment relives the early mountain man & Indian history of the area. “Meet Me on the Green!” Sunday, July 10, 1pm at the Pinedale Rodeo Grounds. 307-367-2242. pg 52 MUSEUM OF THE MOUNTAIN MAN Exhibits on fur trade, Mountain Men, Plains Indians and Western exploration. Open daily 9am-5pm through September 30. Green River Rendezvous weekend July 7-10, 2011. Toll free-877-686-6266 pg 51
W E S T Y E L LOW S TO N E , M O N TA N A GRIZZLY & WOLF DISCOVERY CENTER See LIVE bears & wolves. Get a glimpse into their worlds at this AZA accredited, Not-forProfit, Wildlife Park & Educational Center. Films, programs & activities for all ages. 1-block from Yellowstone National Park. Open 365 days a year (GWDC bears DO NOT hibernate). 1-800257-2570 pg 15
W I N D R I V E R I N D I A N R E S E RV AT I O N , W YO M I N G NORTHERN ARAPAHO EXPERIENCE A live exhibit through the eyes of the Northern Arapaho People. Celebrate our native heritage through song, dance and storytelling Every Tues. & Thur. at 6 p.m. at the Wind River Casino, 2 miles south of Riverton on HWY 789, windrivercasino.com, 866-657-1604 PG 15
WYOMING HISTORICAL SITE VISITOR CENTER CO DY , W YO M I N G BUFFALO BILL DAM & VISITOR CENTER Open daily May 1-Sept. 30. Free admission, enjoy views from the top of the dam. The center includes exhibits, a theater, a self-guided audio tour, bookstore, & restrooms. www.BBDVC.org Located 6 miles west of Cody on way to Yellowstone. pg 43
WEDDINGS, CONVENTIONS, PARTIES G R A N D TA R G H E E , W YO M I N G GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 45
J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT Full service resort in Teton Village. Hotels, restaurants, lounges, recreation. 307-733-2292 pg 47 NOTEWORTHY MUSIC BOOKING AGENCY Thirty years in Jackson Hole, impeccable references. Provides entertainment for all types of occasions. www.noteworthymusicagency.com Call Mike Calabrese 307-733-5459 pg 22
P I N E D A L E , W YO M I N G HAMPTON INN & SUITES PINEDALE, Banquet rooms seating up to 70 people, business center,102 rooms. Call for information on one of our event discounts. West side of Pinedale, www.pinedalesuites.hamptoninn.com, 307-367-6700 pg 52 LAKESIDE LODGE & RESTAURANT meeting facilities to accommodate up to 100 people for company meeting/convention, weddings, family reunions or special events. Catering available. www.lakesidelodge.com, 1-877-755-LAKE(5253) 307-367-2221 pg 53 SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE Facilities for any function, from guest ranches to hotels. For full listing go to sublettechamber.com or PinedaleOnline.com 888-285-7282 pg 52
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• MADISON • MORAN • FIREHOLE • GIBBON • TEEWINOT • ROOSEVELT LODGE • WASHBURN • JENNY LAKE • LEIGH LAKE • NORRIS • GALLATIN • WIND RIVER • ABSAROKA • WAPITI VALLEY
To Three Forks
Burnt Lake
Boulder Lake
INFORMATION BOZEMAN, MONTANA 406-586-5421 CODY, WYOMING 307-587-2297 DUBOIS, WYOMING 307-455-2556 GARDINER, MONTANA 406-848-7971 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK 307-739-3300 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING 307-733-3316 LIVINGSTON, MONTANA 406-222-0850 MEETEESE, WYOMING 307-868-2423 PINEDALE, WYOMING 307-367-2242 POWELL, WYOMING 307-754-3494 RED LODGE, MONTANA 406-446-1718 TETON VALLEY/DRIGGS, IDAHO 208-354-2500 WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA 406-646-7701 WIND RIVER VISITORS COUNCIL 800-645-6233 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 307-344-7381 Map design by Bob Woodall Copyright 2011 – Focus Productions
DUNRAVEN • WASHBURN • SNAKE RIVER • GROS VENTRE • TOGWOTEE PASS • GRAND TETONS • OLD FAITHFUL • PAHASKA • BUFFALO BILL • SHOSHONE • NEZ PERCE • HOBACK • BRIDGER
• CODY • DUBOIS • JACKSON HOLE • RED LODGE • MAMMOTH • GARDINER • PINEDALE • WYOMING • IDAHO • MONTANA • YELLOWSTONE •
SNOW KING • HAYDEN VALLEY • MOOSE • WILSON • TETON VILLAGE • DRIGGS • VICTOR • GRAND TARGHEE • BEARTOOTH • COOKE CITY •
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T E TO N & Y E L L OW STO N E A DV E N T U R E G U I D E 2 0 1 1
T o Rock Springs
w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m
ON THE WEST SIDE OF THE SQUARE 733-3279 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING L A R G E G R O U P S A N D PA RT I E S A R E W E L C O M E w w w. c a d i l l a c - g r i l l e . c o m
S E E O U R S A M P L E M E N U - PA G E 2 6 I N T H E J A C K S O N H O L E D I N I N G G U I D E