Adventure Guide 2012
GRAND TETON & YELLOWSTONE COUNTRY
Mountain Towns • National Parks Vacation Excursions • Regional Map yellowstoneadventureguide.com
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JEWELRY ORIGINALS 36 YEARS OF INSPIRATION AT 6000 FT. Gaslight Alley • Downtown Jackson Hole • 125 N.Cache
www.danshelley.com • info@danshelley.com • 307.733.2259 ALL DESIGNS COPYRIGHTED
ACTIVITIES 6 16 20 24 28 29 31 35 36 38 40 42 44 45 46 47 48 50 52
101 Things To Do Grand Teton Music Festival Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Grand Targhee Resort Cody Nite Rodeo Buffalo Bill Dam Green River Rendezvous Climbing Hiking Mountain Biking Pathways Fishing Scenic & Whitewater Rafting Jenny Lake Boat Cruises Stand Up Paddle Boarding Waterway Access Sea Kayaking Horseback Riding Shooting Range
NATURE 14 14 15
Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center Teton Raptor Center National Bighorn Sheep Center
MUSEUMS 6 6 26 31
Jackson Hole Historical Society National Museum of Wildlife Art Buffalo Bill Historical Center Museum of the Mountain Man
WYOMING TOWNS 18 20 24 26 30 33 34
Jackson Teton Village Grand Targhee Cody Pinedale Dubois Alpine
MAPS & DIRECTORIES 54 55 58 Cover: Katie Hubbard paddles her sea kayak on Leigh Lake in Grand Teton National Park. Contents: Casey Cox launches her kite beside Jackson Lake, Grand Teton National Park. Wade McKoy photos
Publishers: Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy, dba Focus Productions, Inc. (FPI) Editors: Mike Calabrese, Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall Photo Editor: Eric Rohr Art Director: Janet Melvin Advertising Sales: Nanci Montgomery, Andy LaBonte, Bob Woodall, Teri Quigley, focus.ads@bresnan.net, 307-733-6995
Grand Teton / Yellowstone Adventure Guide is a free visitor’s guide published annually in May and distributed all summer at hundreds of locations throughout Jackson Hole, Cody, West Yellowstone, Pinedale, Dubois, and other regional communities, and at information centers throughout the Greater Yellowstone area. focus.info@bresnan.net
Copyright 2012 by Focus Productions, Inc., P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, WY 83001. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publishers.
Lodging Guide Business Directory Greater Yellowstone Map Go online and easily view our three magazines— the Jackson Hole Dining Guide, the Jackson Hole Skier, and the Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide: facebook.com/focusjh focusproductions.com tetonadventureguide.com yellowstoneadventureguide.com
Order magazines, posters, postcards, and photos online. To mail-order the current set of three magazines, send $12 to: FPI Magazines, P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, WY 83001.
Hungry? Find the meal you’re looking for in the
Jackson Hole Dining Guide Jackson Hole’s go-to menu book for 25 years Pick it up at lodging properties, information centers, and retail outlets
Check out the new website,
jhdiningguide.com • Smartphone and mobile device friendly • Search restaurants by cuisine, meals, price range • Make reservations • Get directions • View menus, maps, recipes, blogs, and videos Scan QR code and visit our website at jhdiningguide.com focusjh@focusproductions.com
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Vacation Adventures 1 ★ 0 1 GS in Mountain Country THIN TO DO
The pathway from Moose to Jenny Lake in Grand Teton National Park promises eye-popping landscapes and safe travels.
Photographs by Bob Woodall, Wade McKoy, and Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild by Nature Gallery
Relax. That’s what vacations are all about. Flip through Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide and discover an array of activities for this vast region. As you head out to the sights, stop by our first-rate visitor centers, some regional tourist attractions themselves. Local bookstores and libraries are great resources, too. Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks are home to hundreds of grizzly bears.
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NATIONAL PARKS
A single entrance fee gains access to both Grand Teton National Park (GTNP) and Yellowstone National Park (YNP). The entrance stations are not information booths, though; better to visit the many well-cached information centers found in the parks themselves and gateway towns. The folks queuing behind your vehicle will appreciate your efficiency and courtesy. Especially those shuttling a boatload of restless youngsters. The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem (GYE), the largest intact ecosystem in the lower 48 states, includes a dozen mountain ranges along the Great Divide, the country’s first and largest national park and national forest, the farthest point from a road outside Alaska, and, not surprisingly, wildlife galore. Slow down and watch for wildlife—Sometimes called the American Serengeti, YNP and GTNP are home to bison, elk, deer, moose, grizzly and black bear, wolves, mountain lion, wolverine, osprey, eagles, and a myriad of other small animals. Go early in the morning and keep your eyes peeled. Lamar and Hayden valleys in YNP are good bets for sighting bison, wolves, and grizzly bears. Moose frequent willowed bottomlands. Stay alert,
Family fun at the marshmallow roast Inspiration Point overlooking Jenny Lake
Chuckwagon cookout
though, even on strolls around park developments. And never approach or feed wildlife! Up your odds for great photos or experiences by taking a wildlife tour with qualified guides. Waterfalls—The 308-foot Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River is the granddaddy of the many roadside water features, but a hike can reveal the park’s more obscure, dramatic torrents. In the Tetons thousands of sightseers trek to Hidden Falls, which, for many, begins with a boat ride across Jenny Lake (pg. 45). Smell the wild roses—The mountains are famous for a profusion of wildflowers. Starting in late May and June, dazzling displays of color follow the snowline into the mountains. Some are tiny, especially the ones above timberline, so look closely. Old Faithful Inn—Of course the Old Faithful Geyser is on your must-see list, but don’t pass up a venture into the spectacular Old Faithful Inn. It’s well over 100 years old and bathed in a rich history. Ranger Programs—From Ranger Adventure Hikes to Family Campfire Evenings to Stars Over Yellowstone, these programs offer something for w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
The Snake River is one of several regional waterways that offer whitewater boating.
the whole family. The park newspaper contains all the schedules. Get on the bus—Tired of having to watch the road while everyone else gets to look for bears? Then savor Yellowstone from the perspective of early park visitors by touring in the luxury of a refurbished “Historic Yellow Bus.” Photograph the sights—Digital, film, recorder, whatever. Everybody’s a pro out here. Get a long lens, too. Again, don’t ever approach wild animals! They can easily outrun humans and simply aren’t as fond of us as we are of them. Passport to your national parks—Buy a “Passport Book” at the park visitor center. A colorful way to track your lifetime travels across America. After each visit to a park or monument (there are 390), take the passport book to the Cancellation Station and get it stamped.
EDUCATION
Museums—The Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum recently opened its new facility two blocks north of the Jackson Town Square.
View the settlement of Jackson Hole through artifacts, documents, photos, books and the oral histories of trappers, homesteaders, dude ranchers, and adventurers. Then there’s the big boys. Cody’s Buffalo Bill Historical Center (pg. 26) “Inside the Museum” treks will inspire kids and adults alike at the Buffalo Bill site, as participants engage in a hunt for historical-object details. Jackson’s National Museum of Wildlife Art exhibits over 5,000 works of art on wildlife and nature, many historic. The world-renowned museum’s grounds and building incorporate art both subtle and dramatic. Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center—Got skunked in Yellowstone, never spotting a wolf or bear? Don’t despair. Head to West Yellowstone and say hello to Sam the Grizzly or Takoda the Wolf at this lifelike viewing facility (pg. 14). Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center—In downtown Dubois, Wyoming, experience these stunning, full-size bighorns in breathtaking realism set amidst their natural flora and geology. Photos and hands-on exhibits transport visitors into the majestic range and habits of these powerful animals.
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Inspiration Point in Grand Teton National Park
Yellowstone and Grand Teton are home to bison, elk, deer, moose, grizzly and black bear, wolves, mountain lion, wolverine, osprey, eagles, and a myriad of other small animals. A young red fox
Fine-spotted Snake River cutthroat trout
Set aside some time for the kids to take in the center’s engaging interactive displays and information. Libraries—Books, music, movies, lectures, computers, and insight into just about every community in mountain country. Great havens for tired travelers and curious kids, especially if the weather is a tad uncooperative. Bookstores—Some with coffee, pastries, newspapers, wi-fi, but all with books and settings that enrich readers young and old!
CULTURE
Music festivals—A score of music events await mountain country travelers, including the 25th Annual Yellowstone Jazz Festival, with its ensemble performances at various locations in Cody and Powell; the world-class Grand Teton Music Festival in Jackson Hole (pg. 16); and Grand Targhee’s Bluegrass and Targhee Fest and music camps. Jackson’s Center for the Arts also hosts a number of summer music and dance concerts, stage presentations, and art shows. Teton Village continues its popular free Concert on the Commons performance series, and in Victor, Idaho, free concerts in the park bring weekly gatherings to the Music on Main events. Art fairs—There’s no better way to celebrate nature’s art-inspiring elements than at one of the many artists’ fairs highlighting summer weekends throughout mountain country. Watch artisans at work or just wander through festive outdoor galleries. Antique shows—Snap up a bargain, maybe even a piece of history, at one of the many antique road shows hosted in our mountain towns.
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Classic car show—View or bid on vintage cars displayed at the Silver Collector Car Show and Auction, July 7-8 in Teton Village. Early Iron and the Rod Run—Keep your eyes peeled for vintage and antique cars and pickups cruising “The Strip” around Jackson Hole in June and in early August in West Yellowstone. Fall Arts Festival—Jackson’s runs through early fall, highlighted by ranch tours, culinary events, and endless activities. On the Targhee side, folks gather at the Annual Spuds and Suds celebration of fall. Games, events for kids of all ages, live music and, because it’s in Idaho, an allyou-can-eat potato bar and beer garden hosted by local breweries. Gallery walks—Stroll through the many art galleries in mountain towns. It doesn’t cost to look! Join the organized “walks,” often complete with free food! Walk around the town—Boardwalks and wide-open shop-lined streets from the old West are central to every gateway town in Teton / Yellowstone country. Jackson’s town square is set off by elk-antler archways and ringed by boardwalks and historic buildings. Unique shops, eateries, and galleries characterize these mountain towns. Go shopping—Therapeutic, patriotic, and economically stimulating, shopping in mountain country is a gas. From carved bears to elk antler items to unique clothing to everyday dining delights, regional enterprises know how to treat the customer right. Drive-in theaters—Not many of these left in the world, but one of the more famous, the Spud Drive-in Theatre, just south of Driggs, Idaho, is a
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trip back in time. Look for the giant spud on the old red flatbed truck, just off the highway between Victor and Driggs, Idaho. Imax—The IMAX theater in West Yellowstone shows special releases on the parks. Film festivals—Fall film festivals include the Jackson Hole Wildlife Film Festival, Teton Theater Frank’s Fest, the Jackson Hole Film Institute’s offerings, and the August Spud Fest, a real spectacle at the Spud Drive-in. Teton Gravity Research, one of the country’s fastest growing action sports brands always has something cooking, too. Live theater—Family fun right in the heart of towns like Jackson Hole, West Yellowstone, and Cody, some even hosting dinner theater for eats and antics. Go out to eat—An army runs on its stomach, and an army of tourists has countless dining opportunities not available in many areas. Take advantage of mountain country’s diverse gustatory offerings. Fire department chicken fries and barbecues—Throughout summer volunteer fire departments throw fundraising chicken-fries and BBQs. All visitors are welcome. A great way to meet locals and experience a sweet slice of American pie. Dance to the music—Don’t just dance to the music, dance to live music. Many bars and taverns offer nightly live music. Get out and kick up your heels! Learn to Western Swing: free lessons at 7:30 on Thursday nights at Jackson’s Cowboy Bar. Learn to Square Dance: another Western tradition, master the dosido and allemande left on Tuesday nights at the Rustic Pine
The Right Care Right Now Family Health & Urgent Care Snow King’s alpine slide, a fun ride for all ages
Driggs Gary Dotson, MD Gayle Hoffarth, LPN
Deb Daugherty
Scott Thomas, MD
Visiting Specialists: Angus “Gus” Goetz, DO - Orthopaedics William Ramsey, MD - Ophthalmology Appointments and walk-ins welcome Mon - Fri: 8:30 am - 6:30 pm; Sat: 12:00 pm - 5:00 pm 208 354 4757 852 Valley Center Drive Driggs, ID
St John’s
Cowboys “wranglin’ in the horses” for another day on the trail.
Tavern in Dubois, Wyoming. Families welcome. Watch for info in all our western towns.
4 Peaks Clinic
WATER, WATER, EVERYWHERE
Go fish—Mountain country holds some of the best fishing streams and lakes in the lower 48 states. The area abounds with angling shops and guide services. Hire a guide or just get out and explore (pg. 42). Whitewater rafting—The Snake, Yellowstone, and Shoshone rivers sport miles of whitewater action. Lots of commercial services are available, or rent a raft and go get wet (pg. 44). Scenic raft trips—Not into getting wet? Then how about a sublime sunrise voyage on the Snake River in front of the Grand Tetons? Watch a bald eagle soar or dive for breakfast. (pg. 44). Motorboat cruises—Board a scenic motorboat and cruise Jenny Lake to the base of the Tetons. An hour spent as a passenger on a comfortable lake craft reveals a wealth of insight into regional history, geology, plants, and animals. Or ride the shuttle boat across the lake and hike to nearby Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point in Cascade Canyon. (pg. 45) Canoeing & sea kayaking—Want to be a little more intimate with the water? The possibilities are almost endless. Rent a canoe or kayak on Jenny Lake and take the family for a paddle on crystal-clear mountain waters at the base of the Tetons. (pg. 45) Rent boats in the town of Jackson to explore our many lakes and streams. (pg. 46) Whitewater kayaking—To get really personal with the river, there’s nothing like being in a kayak, splashing through rapids or surfing a wave for as long as you can hold on. Stand Up Paddle Boards (SUP)—Feel like Hawaiian royalty standing on a long surfboard propelling yourself along the river currents. Paddling while standing affords a bird’s-eye view into the clear waters and stunning vistas. Rent one and find out why it’s the fastest growing water sport in the world. (pg. 46) Water slide and pool—Rained out or just want to get some exercise? Then head to the J.H. Rec. Center, complete with lap pool, kids’ pool, Jacuzzi, steam room, and three-story water slide. Take the entire family. Supervised, adult-led day-adventure programs for kids available, too. Ask w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
Jackson April North, MD
Jenny Fritch, PA-C
Jim Little, Jr., MD
Appointments and walk-ins welcome Mon - Fri: 9 am - 7 pm; Sat, Sun: 10 am - 4 pm 307 739 8999 Smith’s Food Store Plaza Jackson, WY
St John’s
Family & Urgent Care
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Stand up paddle boarding
String Lake at the foot of the Tetons offers easy, peaceful paddling.
about public swimming pools in all mountain country towns. Swim alfresco—You’ll find a number of unique options for outdoor swimming around mountain country. In YNP, check out the Firehole River near Madison Junction or the Boiling River near Gardiner, where hot springs flow into the river (swimming in hot springs themselves is prohibited and dangerous). In GTNP, String Lake is an outstanding swimming hole, safe for the whole family. If you want it hot and in a commercial swimming pool, visit Granite Hot Springs, south of Jackson. Sailing—Fremont Lake outside Pinedale, Jackson Lake in GTNP, and Yellowstone Lake all have sailboats in the docks and on the water. Local windsurfers show up when the waves reach whitecap status. Best dam views—Completed in 1910, the Buffalo Bill Dam near Cody is the most impressive one this side of the Hoover Dam. Stroll across the dam and peer 350 feet into the canyon bottom. In GTNP, drive over Jackson Lake Dam, peer across the lake at the Tetons, and marvel at the thundering waters churning out of the spillways.
GET A LIFT
Hop on the Bus—The Jackson Hole START Bus system makes getting around easy. In Jackson ride all over town for free. Buses are on a halfhour schedule. Hourly departures to Teton Village. Three bucks for adults, half price for seniors and students through 12th grade. Buses also run south to Star Valley and west to Teton Valley. Visit startbus.com for a complete fee/time schedule and maps.
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Yellowstone’s geysers and hot pools delight millions of visitors.
Tram—Climb 4,139 feet above the valley floor aboard the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram. At the summit of Rendezvous Mountain, a lofty 10,450 feet, tram passengers step out into the Alpine zone, right at the tree-line’s edge. Take in a 360-degree panorama of the Jackson Hole valley and nearby and distant mountain features. Ride the tram, hike the trails or “fly” (pg. 20) back to the valley floor. Tandem paragliding—From the top of the tram, sprout wings on a 20-minute tandem flight with Jackson Hole Paragliding. Certified pilots with hundreds of hours flying in the Tetons are eager to introduce first-timers to the exhilarating experience of tandem paragliding (pg. 20). Chairlifts—Not only do these lifts get you up above it all for an impressive view of the scenery, but they also provide quick backcountry access for hikers and mountain bikers. Both Snow King and Grand Targhee mountain resorts offer rides (pg. 24). Dine on a mountainside—Ride the Bridger Gondola at Teton Village up to the Couloir Restaurant for a peak dining experience 2,730 feet above the valley. Or head up for afternoon cocktails on the Deck and marvel at a high-altitude Jackson Hole sunset. The ride is free. Balloon rides—Greet the morning by lofting into crisp mountain air under a colorful hot-air balloon. Bungee-trampolining—Give your youngster the thrill of a trampoline with the lift and spring of bungee cords (pg. 20). Alpine slide—Ride the chairlift up, then board a sled for a journey down a mountain slide that curves and dips through the forest at Snow King.
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Glider rides—Mountains create updrafts, and that means good gliding. Check the Driggs, Idaho, airport for information on glider rides.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Hiking—An almost endless array of trails radiate into the mountains. The only limits are your legs and longing. The views? You supply the adjectives (pg. 36). Camping—The great outdoors were made for camping. Get away from the motor home and rough it! Cook out on an open fire and sleep under the stars. Nothing like it under the sun, of course. Climb the Grand—Often listed in the 100 things to do in your life, and for a good reason! Despite a peak 7,000 feet above the valley, topping the Grand is an attainable goal for anyone in good physical condition and among the right companions. Some of the world’s best guides and instructors live here (pg. 35). Mountain biking—Our trail systems are among the finest in the country (pg. 38). Pathways—Walk, ride a bike, rollerblade. Jackson Hole’s extensive pathway system rewards all users with a peaceful state of mind (pg. 40). Shooting—Certified pistol- and rifle-use instruction, skeet and trap shooting with shotguns, all at the Jackson Hole Gun Club site south of the town of Jackson. A wide selection of guns, covered shooting area, two separate pistol bays, and a classroom (pg. 52).
ATHLETIC EVENTS
Enter a marathon—If you’re a vacationing
Shooting star
Camping
The mountains are famous for a profusion of wildflowers. Starting in late May and June, dazzling displays of color follow the snowline into the mountains. Some are tiny, especially the ones above timberline, so look closely. Jackson’s Farmers’ Market
A cow moose and calf cross a pond.
runner, make a race part of the fun. Charge up Snow King Mountain in Jackson or 4,139-foot Rendezvous Peak at Teton Village. Major races are slated for August 18 and August 25 at Teton Village and September 23 in Jackson. Learn about “cup-free” marathon competitions online at jacksonholemarathon.eventbrite.com. Just over the hill, in the Targhee region, runners can get their legs moving at Fred’s Hill climb on June 30 or on August 17-18 as part of the new Grand Teton Relay event. For clips and details of this new and colorful relay-team competition, visit www.grandteton.relay.com. Run a 24-hour relay—In the Cache-Teton Relay, August 10-11, 2012, 12-person teams start in Logan, Utah, pad 200 miles through four national forests along the historic Oregon Trail and the shoreline of Blackfoot Reservoir, then through Star Valley and finally along the Snake River to finish at the foot of the Tetons (www.epicrelays.com). Many other regional towns sponsor marathons, half-marathons, and fun runs as part of holiday events and fairs. Posters and papers should catch your eye. Mountain bike and running races—No surprise to find plenty of mountain bike and running events in the Rockies. Teton Village alone hosts four competitions, including a cycle-cross and the ultimate hill climb up 4,139 vertical feet to the top of Rendezvous Mountain. The Victor/Driggs biking community also hosts a variety of mountain bike fests: June 30, July 27, July 29, August 4, and September 15-16 events will have the quiet side of the Tetons buzzing.
Bikers and runners in Jackson line up to tackle the challenging course at the annual Cache-to-Game-Creek race. And the ever-popular annual Snow King Hill Climb starts on Town Square, as does the wildly successful September fundraiser, Old Bill’s. In Wilson, a new race on the Arrow, Phillips Ridge, and Phillips Canyon trails gives bikers both 50- and 100-mile options, while runners attack the 50-mile course. August 25. For local info check in with bike shops and resorts throughout mountain country. Road bike races—One of the few – and possibly the best – is the LOTOJA (Logan to Jackson). Slated for September 8, 2012, this 206-mile contest, a European-style road classic competition, attracts nearly 1,000 cyclists (www.lotojaclassic.com). Kayak events—Top-tier paddlers test their whitewater skills on the Hoback, Snake, and Greys rivers while roadside spectators enjoy the thrills of competition at the Wyoming Whitewater Championships May 25-27. This year, the U.S. Downriver Kayaking National Championships add heft to the weekend already sporting traditional freestyle and head-to-head boater-cross events. Additional racing includes canoeing, stand-up paddle boarding (SUP), and rafting. A film festival and party round out the festivities. On June 16 enjoy a free boating demo day on historic Slide Lake at the Intermountain Paddle Sports Symposium. Bring the family to the Atherton Creek boat ramp, where you can try kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, canoes,
w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
since 1970
FINE JEWELRY
O n t h e To w n S q u a r e 80 Center Stre et Jack son Hole, W yoming 3 07. 7 33 . 559 9 w w w. h i n e s g o l d . c o m
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Ferrin’s trail near Jackson, one of hundreds in the region for mountain bikers.
Dude ranches, the quintessential Western vacation, emerse travelers in the lore of the Old West and provide a perfect family getaway.
Cow elk with calves
The Cody Nite Rodeo is fun for all ages.
and sailing kayaks. Instruction, paddling clinics, a barbeque, and an SUP race round out the family fun, all amid the rugged Gros Ventre Mounain range.
TEE TIME
Mini golf—Everyone can enjoy this activity, without breaking the bank, either! Cody, West Yellowstone, Jackson Hole, and more tucked away at motels all over mountain country. Frisbee golf—What a combo! Can you imagine it? At both JHMR and Grand Targhee (pg. 20 & 24). Real golf—More golf courses than you can shake a club at! Jackson Hole sports four, Teton Valley is home to a couple, and the loop from Cody to West Yellowstone to Ashton, Idaho, to Jackson to Dubois, Wyoming, must hold a dozen more. Naturally, the prices range from family to fortune.
GET WESTERN
Mountain man rendezvous—The Green River Rendezvous, July 12-15, 2012, in Pinedale, Wyoming, is a pageant that educates visitors about the history of fur-trade era events. Rendezvous also take place throughout the summer in Jackson, Alpine, and West Yellowstone and are open to the public. Great places to find unique items. Or outfit yourself and join in the fun! Indian powwows—This is Indian country, too, and perfect for a traditional Powwow. The most prominent one is the 31st Annual Plains Indian Powwow, June 16-17, 2012, in Cody, Wyoming. Indian dancers try to catch the judges’ eyes with
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personal style, footwork falling on the beat of the music, and beautifully crafted dance attire (pg. 26). Chuckwagon dinners and shows—Ranging from dinner under the Tetons at Dornan’s to polished performances showcasing cowboy musicians and theater in most of our mountain towns. In Teton Village mount a gentle horse or board a covered wagon to a hearty Dutch oven dinner complete with campfire entertainment Horseback trail rides and pack trips—You are in the West after all, so what better way to experience it than astride a horse! Head to the hills for an hour, a day, or even a week (pg. 50). Stagecoach rides—In Jackson Hole, a short stagecoach ride around downtown Jackson will light up the faces of young and old. From Roosevelt Lodge in YNP, stagecoaches, replicas of those used in early park days, course through four miles of sagebrush and flower-embroidered flats. Cody Trolley Tours—A 60-minute, 22-mile tour in a comfortable red & green trolley. Narrators recount the story of world-famous William F. “Buffalo Bill” Cody while highlighting historical sites, scenic vistas, geology, wildlife, and Old- and NewWest attractions. Dude ranches—The quintessential Western vacation. From rustic to polished, these weeklong emersions into the lore of the Old West are the perfect family getaway. Rodeo—The Old West rides into arenas nightly in Cody and several times a week in Jackson and West Yellowstone. Rodeos, like fireworks and parades, are also integral to July 4th celebrations throughout the West (pg. 28). Shootout—The legendary Old West shootout
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is re-enacted nightly on the streets of Jackson and Cody. For real-action shooting, though, check out Cody’s Wild West Shootout competition in June. No blanks at this event. Visit a ghost town—Tour the abandoned goldmining town of Kirwin in the mountains southwest of Meeteetse. Four-wheel drive recommended. Cody’s Old Trail Town—One-of-a-kind buildings from the past, including the famous hideout used by Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. Colorful characters might still haunt nearby gravesites, too. Mule Days—Don’t be stubborn! Check out Jake Clark’s Mule Days in Cody, June 15-17, 2012. Not just a pack “ani-mule,” the venerable saddle mule is front and center in its own parade, rodeo, and auction, all highlighting the abilities of a true Western character.
SPECIAL EVENTS
Elk antler auction—Jackson’s is the King of the Heap, held every year in late May. A downhome Western-town gathering and kickoff to spring in mountain country. Farmers Markets—No reason to strike out for the mega market’s comestibles. Locavores can get their fresh-food fix right on the beaten path. Watch for popular Farmers Markets throughout the region. Fourth of July—Music, rodeos, community picnics, parades, foot races, and of course fireworks. What more can we say! Local papers post complete lists of events. County fairs—These are true community events out here in the West. Horses, cows, pigs,
Petroglyph near Dubois
Old Faithful Inn was opened in 1903.
Area lakes provide countless chances for family fun.
sheep, and the best-grown produce of locals, as well as fiddle contests, magic shows, even carnival rides and stands complete with corn dogs and cotton candy.
SCENIC DRIVES
Teton Park Inner Loop—This idyllic roadway takes you as close to the mountains as you can get in a vehicle. For the best glimpses of wildlife, come early, stay late. Catch the alpenglow at sunrise or the shadows lengthening at sunset. Beartooth Pass—Truly one of the most spectacular, not-to-be-missed drives in America. Between Red Lodge, Montana, and the Northeast Entrance of YNP, the highway switchbacks up the mountainside to above timberline and a 10,940-foot summit. Along the way, cold mountain streams, crashing waterfalls, and deep-blue alpine lakes dot the landscape, while jagged granite peaks jut into the sky. The excursion passes from subalpine to alpine environments. Give yourself plenty of time, though; a parade of continuous vistas beckon – and a snowball fight in July is traditional! Chief Joseph Scenic Highway—Between Cody and the Northeast Entrance of YNP, another zigzagging traverse heads over Dead Indian Hill and into Sunlight Basin. Its isolation and incredible vistas make this wide but infrequently used highway a pleasure to travel along. From the summit you can look deep into both the mountains and the Clarks Fork River Canyon. Wapiti Valley—Between the East Entrance
of YNP and Cody, this spectacular valley is a treat for the eyes. The many strange, eroded rock formations look like, well, whatever your imagination can come up with. Kids excel at this kind of travel creativity. Keep an eye out for the Cookie Monster somewhere up there. Elkhart Park—From Pinedale, the Fremont Lake Road heads north out of town, crosses a glacial moraine, and then climbs past 10-milelong Fremont Lake and on to Elkhart Park. From this popular trailhead, views are afforded well into the Wind River Mountains and down 2,000 feet to Fremont Lake itself. Trail Lake Road—A short bit east of Dubois, Trail Lake Road heads south into the Wind River Mountains and past three jewel-like lakes. Look for petroglyphs on the large boulders along the way. At the end of the road, hike 3 miles to stunning Lake Louise. Ashton to Victor, Idaho—This delightful rural byway undulates over the rolling hills of eastern Idaho farmlands, the ever-present Teton Range looming magnificently in the distance. Best time to enjoy it is in late afternoon, heading toward the mountains.
LOOK UP AT THE STARS
Now that night has fallen, don’t just hit the sack. Head outside and cast those eyes skyward! If you’re a city dweller, you really shouldn’t miss this experience. The Milky Way sweeps across the clear western heavens in a blaze of glittering light and confirms the existence of real stars and astronomical delights.
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playful Sam tips the othing can prescales at 1,000 pare visitors to pounds) tussle with West Yellowstone’s each other or rumGrizzly and Wolf Dismage for food hidden covery Center throughout the habitat (GWDC) for the starby both the center’s tling, up-close experistaff and visiting kids, ence of viewing these reveals behavior that epic, almost mythic, few park visitors ever animals. The regal witness. Seeing Illie pelage and majesty of actually snatch a live grizzlies and the rainbow from the haunting, intelligent habitat’s stocked eyes of gray wolves pond beats looking at are breathtaking, even even the most famous in this carefully conand widespread photrolled and maintained tos of Kodiaks swathabitat. A visit to this ting at salmon. center can be every Impressive as those bit as moving and edimages are, they simucational as a journey ply can’t convey the through the park itself, deft quickness of an especially for folks 800-pound grizzly. who never venture The center’s away from cars or wolves roam in their campgrounds. own River Valley Wolf The not-for-profit habitat, separate from Grizzly and Wolf Disthat of the grizzlies. covery Center, also host to a first-class In 2002 Spirit became the first Montana grizzly to But the two groups, educational exhibit be placed at the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center. the River Valley and High Country packs, center and theater, is the last stop for some of nature’s most recogniz- are just as easily and productively viewed from the able and yet most threatened creatures. But it outdoors viewing deck. And, thanks to the floorto-ceiling windows of the new Naturalist Cabin, should be a first-stop for visitors to the park. All of the center’s grizzlies were otherwise kids as well as adults can be safely mesmerized by the wolves. doomed, thanks in no small part to their unfortuThe recently added Birds of Prey exhibit will also nate adjustment to, or run-ins with, humans. Foolish interactions – like feeding them – or the hold visitors rapt, as staff introduce avian residents misguided killing of predatory sows by ranchers, from the hawk, falcon, owl, and eagle families. There is a lot to take in and, because passes put these bears on a path toward certain destruction. The phrase “a fed bear is a dead bear” is not to the center are good for two consecutive days, visitors often return, as if to confirm the reality and empty rhetoric. Opened in 1993 as “Bears: Imagination and proximity of these vibrant animals. The GWDC is American Zoo and Aquarium AsReality,” the center compellingly draws visitors into the world of bruins, both “real and imaginary.” sociation certified, a much prized and hardThe 25 taxidermic specimens highlight the richly earned endorsement. A visit to the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center will easily win over the diverse coloration of grizzlies and the awe-inspiring girth of the polar bear. Even accomplished out- hearts and minds of visitors of any age. For more information, call the GWDC at 800doorsmen will find the exhibit area’s interactive 257-2570 or go online its site: www.grizzlydiscovstations intriguing and challenging. Watching these massive ursine mammals (the eryctr.org. — Mike Calabrese
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Photo courtesy Teton Raptor Center
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Teton Raptor Center
TRC’s Roger Smith with a red-tailed hawk.
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esides its stirring landscape, visitors to Yellowstone country hope to experience its abundant wildlife. A grizzly bear or moose may be the big draw, but spotting a soaring eagle or hawk can be just as rewarding, even if fleeting. But thanks to the Teton Raptor Center (TRC), wildlife enthusiasts can enjoy more than a fleeting look at these formidable birds of prey. Established in 1997 by field biologists and environmental educators Roger Smith and Margaret Creel, the TRC is a non-profit organization of conservation biologists, veterinarians, wildlife rehabilitators and volunteers. Its mission is to aid birds of prey and promote environmental health through veterinary care and rehabilitation, educational programs, and conservation research. The TRC takes in injured, ill, and orphaned raptors year-round, providing veterinary care and rehabilitation in an effort to return them to the wild. The TRC also gives visitors the chance to have an up-close experience with these impressive birds. “We offer a really unique learning opportunity, and it is something that really adds to and complements what people experience as they travel through the parks,” said Amy Brennan McCarthy, executive directory of the TRC. “To see them up and close and have that proximity to them makes those wild encounters even more meaningful.” There are several ways to get up-close with these magnificent birds. Every Thursday, June 21 though August, The Teton Village Commons hosts “Alive @ 5,” a free program where visitors can watch hawks and falcons soar into the sky. At the Teton Raptor Center itself, next to the big red barns just east of Wilson, Wyoming, tours are conducted every Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday at noon and 2 p.m. The cost is $10. More info online at www.tetonraptorcenter.org or call 307-203-2551. — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide
Photos Bob Woodall
Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center
Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center
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ew mammals can match the sure-footedness of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep. Powerful and nimble, even at 250 to 300 pounds, they tread crags and rocky trails like no other creatures on earth. But the survival of these magnificent animals is threatened all over the West. Fortunately, their beauty and tenuous existence have been showcased graphically and elegantly in the National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center, right in downtown Dubois, Wyoming. Stunning, full-size bighorns – set amidst their natural flora and geology – lend a breathtaking realism to the center’s displays. Photos and handson exhibits draw visitors into the majestic range and habits of these magnificent animals. Other dioramas showcase grizzly bears, marmots, wolves, mountain lions, and a host of smaller intriguing wildlife. Set aside some time for the kids to take in the center’s engaging interactive displays and information.
Summer Hours: 9 a.m. — 6 p.m. 907 W. Ramshorn Street Dubois, Wyoming 307-455-3429 www.bighorn.org email : info@bighorn.org
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Full-size bighorns – set amidst their natural flora and geology – lend a breathtaking realism to the center’s displays.
Dubois, of course, hosts this interpretive center for good reason: nearby Whiskey Mountain is home to the largest wintering herd of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep in North America. And, during winter, the staff offers fully guided tours into the snowy habitat. The center’s website also accesses a biologist’s journal describing the sheep’s slow recovery from the population “crash” of 1990. Located right on the main street of Dubois (which just happens to be Wyoming Highway 287/26), the National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center is open daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. during the summer. Admission fees are $2.50 for adults, 75¢ for children, or $6 for families. For more information, call toll free (888) 2092795, go on-line at www.bighorn.org, or e-mail the center at info@bighorn.org. — Mike Calabrese w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
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Photo courtesy Grand Teton Music Festival
Magnificent orchestra performances highlight summer weekends at Teton Village’s Walk Hall.
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Grand Teton Music Festival By Mike Calabrese
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f you’re visiting Jackson Hole, one of the world’s most iconic pieces of landscape, you also owe yourself an encounter with one of the country’s most spectacularly entertaining venues, the Grand Teton Music Festival. Very little in modern life, when shorn of its technological dross, truly takes our breath away anymore. Cinema, for example, often relies on visual pyrotechnics and bloated soundtracks completely removed from reality. This year’s best picture nod to a nearly silent film being the exception to the rule. Even television is now forced to manufacture spectacles at major sporting events that could almost prod millennium-dead coliseum spectators from the grave. But an orchestra, brimming with human virtuosity, under the direction of yet another virtuoso is something else altogether. An orchestra like the Grand Teton Music Festival’s is a human landscape, as compelling and protean as any in nature. A live symphony performance is a gift holding all the emotional rewards of the most profound love affair. In Jackson Hole that love affair, now in its 51st year, continues to touch audiences young and old no less profoundly than the region’s captivating natural wonders. Festival music performances nicely parallel the height of the Jackson Hole summer season, too. Perfect for anyone lucky enough to be in Jackson Hole as it shakes off winter’s chill. From the blockbuster July 4 outdoor concert to the final strains of its “Celestial Bliss” closing concert on August 18, this top-tier concert series provides music to match the mountains. And any time is the right time for visitors and locals looking to make the most of summer in mountain country. Full orchestra performances adorn 7 weekends, on Friday and Saturday evenings, from July 7 through August 18. Each week also shimmers with Spotlight Concerts every Wednesday, while Musicians’ Choice ensemble productions ensure that Thursday evenings are just as dazzling. The seven-week window affords visitors and locals
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alike right-around 30 opportunities to truly experience live music. These are sonic and eye-popping events to complement or complete the beauty of any day in the Tetons. Except that these transpire at the foot of the Tetons. Set in Teton Village, a thrumming summer hamlet in its own right, Walk Festival Hall’s brilliant acoustic qualities are matched by its comfortable seating and clear sightlines. Listeners of all ages will find themselves transported by the music and the hall’s window into the magic of musicians at their craft. These are world-class players, too, from the Maestro himself right through every section of the orchestra. Within the festival’s seven-week offerings are unforgettable pieces by the giants of the classical world as well as gems by minor historical giants. Although the arcs of many orchestras and festivals have completed themselves, the GTMF’s has remained ascendant. The passing of the festival’s baton from founder Ling Tung on through to current Maestro Donald Runnicles has with each season breathed exhilarating life into programming and performance. Alongside full orchestral performances of icons like Beethoven, Wagner, Bruckner, Schubert, Prokofiev, Mozart, Handel, Ravel, Rachmaninoff, Mussorgsky, and Brahms, Runnicles has included stirring new works by contemporary composers. But any given week also provides audiences a chance to enjoy music’s glorious past and its flourishing present. There really is something here for listeners of any age—or attention span. The Wednesday Spotlight concerts might be the perfect way to mine the deep veins of musical riches, only with smaller nuggets than the Mother Lode. The diversity of the Spotlight Concerts illustrates the GTMF’s insight into both Jackson Hole’s cultural tapestry and that of the larger, national and international scene. The music world, even the classical world, reflects and reacts to society’s interest in live music. Ex-
perienced listeners and now a growing troupe of younger audience members are being drawn to this festival’s diverse entertainment. For example, works by Miles Davis, The Beatles, even Bob Dylan have been arranged and performed with an unmistakable freshness and creativity by the Turtle Island String Quartet. Musicians at the top of their game, classical or otherwise, refuse to be boxed in by narrow interests. That kind of curiosity could also explain the success and appeal of The 5 Browns, a sibling ensemble from down the road in Utah who have shot to prominence by risking an unusual approach to live music. Five Steinway grand pianos are front and center in their performances as the three sisters and their two brothers ply the keys at the same time. That’s 10 hands, 50 digits, diving into pieces that range from classical to jazz to movie scores. From Gershwin to Bernstein to John Williams to Scott Joplin. Other Spotlight Concerts reveal artistry and music both international and homegrown. The HBO series Tremé helped reignite an interest in the signature sounds of New Orleans. And the Original N’Awlins Jazz Orchestra promises to march some of that infectious second-line syncopation right into the heart of the Tetons, with a repertoire that celebrates the soul of American Jazz. It’s almost impossible to listen to
embraced the acoustic guitar long before Norteamericanos did. Under the flawless musical command of this duo, the pure tonal beauty of the instrument is expressed to perfection, especially in Walk Hall. Notably, many of the festival musicians, including Maestro Runnicles himself, don’t pass up the opportunity to perform outside the orchestra setting, either. Thursday evenings afford audiences a more intimate experience into what major orchestra players themselves select for musical expression. Aptly tabbed Musicians’ Choice, these concerts can truly highlight strings, piano, percussion, horns, and woodwinds. And because the ensembles are smaller, listeners often gain new insight into different musical elements and into the performers’ approach to their instruments.
Whatever the material, whatever the musician or ensemble, the sound of live music is pushed to the heavens when performed in a setting as intimate as Walk Hall. Visitors and locals of all ages owe it to themselves to match a mountain-country experience with a musical one at the Grand Teton Music Festival. Ticket prices range from $10 to $54, including student prices. For more information, visit the festival online at www.gtmf.org, call 307-7331128, or drop by the ticket office at Walk Hall in Teton Village. Wilson resident Mike Calabrese, a working musician himself, is also a writer, editor, and fly-fishing addict. Almost a local, after 39 years, he’s been a fan of the GTMF since moving here in 1973. He owns Noteworthy Music Booking Agency.
Any given week also provides audiences a chance to enjoy music’s glorious past and its flourishing present. There really is something here for listeners of any age – or attention span. tunes like “Bogalusa Strut” or “Way Down Yonder in New Orleans” and resist the urge to get up out of that seat! The same could be said for the infectious lyrical stylings of Ruth Moody and the Wailin’ Jennys. Moody’s bluegrass and roots music have propelled her into the national spotlight. But listeners of that truly American treasure, “A Prairie Home Companion,” already may be well aware of Moody’s liquid vocals and dazzling musicianship. Those fortunate enough to catch her live at this concert won’t forget her either. And if there’s one instrument that seems to capture the eyes and ears of budding musicians everywhere, it would have to be the guitar. Some reports indicate that a quarter of a million acoustic guitars are built yearly in the U.S. Audiences who witness the artistry of The Brazil Guitar Duo won’t be surprised that South Americans
NOTEWORTHY MUSIC BOOKING AGENCY • The finest live music acts in the region • Jazz, Swing, Rock, Country, Solos, Duos, Trios & Big Band • Impeccable references Michael Calabrese • 307-733-5459 P.O. Box 289 • Wilson, WY 83014 E-mail: Noteworthy@blissnet.com
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Add a little nightlife to your wildlife! Concerts nightly at the base of Rendezvous Mountain in Teton Village—just south of Grand Teton National Park. SUMMER SEASON: JULY 4 – AUGUST 18, 2012 TUESDAYS INSIDE THE MUSIC FREE concerts are fun for everyone—from classical music aficionados to novices! Kids over 6 welcome. FREE, tickets required WEDNESDAYS SPOTLIGHT Concerts include jazz to bluegrass and beyond. $40 & $50 / $10 STUDENTS
THURSDAYS MUSICIANS’ CHOICE Chamber music handpicked by Festival Musicians showcasing favorite works. $25 / $10 STUDENTS
FRI & SAT ORCHESTRA Festival Orchestra in concert with today’s top artists. $54 / $10 STUDENTS 10% OFF YOUR TICKET PRICE! MENTION THIS AD WHEN YOU CALL OR USE THE CODE “ADVGD” WHEN ORDERING ONLINE.
307-733-1128 WWW.GTMF.ORG
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An historic stagecoach circles Town Square, where intricate elk antler arches stand on each corner.
JACKSON,WYOMING here are more than a few oldtimers who say their community disappeared along with the sign. “Howdy Stranger, Yonder is Jackson Hole, the Last of the Old West,” said the 1930s wooden sign on Teton Pass, its cowboy fashioned after Jackson Mayor Harry Clissold. Pretty much everybody was a cowboy back then.
The 1930s wooden sign on Teton Pass was
Times sure have changed. replicated and reset in 2000. There’re a few real cowboys left, but Jackson Hole has become a place where an “old-timer” is anyone who has lived in the valley longer than you. The sign is back, though, recreated by Bob Rudd and the Rotary Club in the year 2000. Jackson’s history began before the cowboy, of course. Scarcely 150 years ago, Jackson Hole was home – in summer and fall only – to small bands of Native Americans and a handful of fur trappers. Later, the trappers and Indians were replaced by homesteaders who managed to endure here while raising beef cattle and cultivating what few crops could mature during a growing season that – in a really good year – might be as long as three months. It was a tough life and it truly was a slice of the Old West. But Jackson Hole’s future (“hole” was trapper slang for a mountain valley) was determined when those homesteaders realized that dudes (rancher slang for summer tourists) were easier to keep than cattle. There are still dude ranches in the valley, and although you can still saddle up a horse and ride off into the sunset while staying at one, you will have choices that would befuddle a trapper: will it be a horseback ride today, or tennis? Or perhaps a round of golf? Jackson Hole is now a year-round vacation destination. The town of Jackson is a gateway to Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks, to national forests, and to wilderness areas. Visitors hike, bike, ride horseback, fish, climb mountains, Jackson and the Tetons as viewed from Snow King Mountain; Farmers Market
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Photos: Bob Woodall; Wade McKoy (market); Jackson Hole Historical Society
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By Joseph Piccoli
marvel at the geysers of Yellowstone, and gape at the stunning Teton mountains. They attend symphony orchestra concerts and browse through art galleries and museums by the dozen. So if the wide-open spaces of the Old West really were populated by cowboys and bad guys, by
lose the contact with friends and neighbors afforded by regular excursions to pick up their mail. The Postal Service dropped its plans for home delivery of the mail and even after opening a large post office in west Jackson a few years later, it bowed to public pressure and has kept the “old” downtown post office open. Probably the most important thing about Jackson’s Western heritage, and the thing that has remained unchanged, is its location. Sure, this is Wyoming, the state with license plates that feature a picture of a cowboy on a bucking bronco. But Jackson is also surrounded by some of the most spectacular and unspoiled lands in the West. There are millions of acres surrounding Jackson (in wilderness areas and the backcountry of
Yellowstone and Grand Teton parks) where travel on foot or by horseback is the only travel possible. For many people, the real West is found in those places where the impact of humans is least in evidence. In Jackson Hole, those places can be found in literally every direction. From the Jackson Town Square, the hub of urban life in the valley, you can reach a roadless wilderness in less time than it takes a person to reach a shopping mall in most American cities. So as glitzy as Jackson may seem to some, you’ll never be far from its roots – nor from the real West. Joseph Piccoli is a writer and editor living in Jackson Hole.
Live theater at the Jackson Hole Playhouse
From the Jackson Town Square, the hub of urban life in the valley, you can reach a roadless wilderness in less time than it takes a person to reach a shopping mall in most American cities. schoolmarms and shady ladies, clearly much of the Old West has packed up and pulled out of town. Not all of it is gone, however, and not all of what’s left is simply a show put on for the 30,000 or so visitors who crowd the streets of downtown Jackson on an average summer day. Take the Shootout for example. A bunch of locals don classic Western wear every night at 6 p.m. (except Sunday) from Memorial Day to Labor Day, head down to the Town Square, and pretend to shoot each other. In the best spaghetti-Western tradition there’s a bit of corny melodrama performed to set the scene, then guns blaze and the street is suddenly strewn with bodies. After a moment, the bodies stir, then stand and dust themselves off. The tourists think it’s great and you might think the event is pure Chamber of Commerce boosterism. But for the locals who produce the show it is a labor of love. Many have performed every summer for years and turn out in historically accurate costumes that really are too valuable to be worn while rolling around on the street. Another example is the wooden sidewalks in the downtown area. One woman I know (she’s a “local”) says she likes them because they give her a great reason not to wear high heels. Jackson, after all, retains enough of its Western heritage that you’ll see folks wearing blue jeans at even the most formal events. Some of what keeps Jackson a real Western town is simply the stuff of small towns everywhere. A while back the U.S. Postal Service tried to introduce home delivery of mail to Jackson. Residents objected because they did not want to w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
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Photos: Julie Weinberger
Free live music in Teton Village on Sundays brings out dancers, picnickers, and just plain old music lovers.
TETON VILLAGE,WYOMING
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eton Village is a destination unto itself, complete with lodging and dining that ranges from four-star luxury to economy fare and a wide array of resort activities available as turnkey adventures or do-ityourself excursions. Tucked up against a 4,100-foot-tall mountain bedecked with forests, flowers, cliffs and crags, laced with trams and gondolas, bordering Grand Teton National Park – well, you get the picture.
please the ladies, while the men may linger at Wool and Whiskey’s fully stocked whiskey bar and men’s mercantile. Then visit the local artisan boutique MADE and find out why it’s achieved such a cult following. One essential mountain-town specialty, outdoor apparel, has a wide range of top purveyors – TVS, Wilderness, Jackson Hole Sports, Jackson Treehouse, and Pepi Stiegler Sports – each with it’s own unique personality in store design and wears. Before heading out to the day’s activities, pick up those last-minute items at the new Jackson Hole General Store next to the Aerial Tram, offering grab-and-go snacks, beer, souvenirs, and a full-service coffee bar and ice cream counter. Or dash in and out of the Village Bottle Shop and Gas Station for those grab-and-go items.
The Village “Come for the day, stay for the night!” the slogan entices, pulling the reader into the Teton Village mystique. Fact is, “The Village” has finally come into its own as a quaint mountain hamlet. The Village Commons brings it all together. The stone plaza – surrounded by lush lawns, manicured gardens, and a babbling brook – invites travelers to sit down and soak it up. In the sun or in the shade, tables and chairs await. A metal fire-pit, itself a work of art, warms those who sit on its benches. A large kid’s play structure stays busy, of course. And it’s just a step away from the biggest treat of all – the pop-up fountain. This beguiling water feature often lures kids and playful adults into a game of catch with its unpredictable spurts. Sidewalks go in every direction, leading to a variety of great dining, shopping, lodging, and spa options. Follow these pathways to find the perfect ending to your perfect day in the mountains. Enjoy a glass of wine and sushi on the patio of the Four Seasons, or go casual at the famous Mangy Moose with a buffalo burger and a beer. Eat authentic Italian in the refined am-
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Aerial Tram
Banking a turn at the bike park
biance of Osteria, or at the Alpenhof enjoy traditional Austrian cuisine in the dining room followed by a Spaten on the deck overlooking the tram. Wander into Masa Sushi for top-rate Asian fare, or opt for lodge-style dining, bar, and deck at the Cascade. Game Fish treats travelers to fine dining in elegance and style, while the RMO surprises with unique lunch and breakfast items. The baked goods of the Village Café round out the tour. Full yet? The Teton Village retail community includes many locally owned specialty shops. Rodeo womens’ clothing boutique will no doubt
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The same Jackson Hole Aerial Tram that whisks skiers and snowboarders up 4,139 vertical feet during ski season also carries summer vacationers on a round-trip journey into the high alpine landscape of flowers and granite. The ride might include spotting a moose, deer, or even the occasional black bear foraging on the mountainside. The sleek cabins, which carry 100 passengers in ski season, easily accommodate 60 people in the summer, standing and seated. An entire bus tour can board the tram all at once. At the summit, take in the unrivaled 360-degree views of Jackson Hole, the Snake River, and Grand Teton National Park. High-altitude weather changes quickly from sunshine to thunderstorms and vice versa, so pack a jacket, water, and sunscreen, even for a short walk.
Hiking Trails lead from the top of the tram into the Cody Peak Basin and Grand Teton National Park. The Mountain Road courses seven miles down to Teton Village (hint: a local favorite is to hike this trail from the village to the summit and then ride the tram back down for free). A spectacular new trail links the summit of Rendezvous Mountain with the top of the Bridger Gondola, dropping 1,350 vertical feet in just under two miles. Hike from the top of the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram through the spectacular Tensleep Bowl, traverse The Cirque and descend the Head-
The Village Commons brings it all together. The stone plaza – surrounded by lush lawns, manicured gardens, and a babbling brook – invites travelers to sit down and soak it up. wall. Then walk into Headwall Pizza at the Bridger Gondola, also housing The Couloir Restaurant, and The Deck. Quiet and civilized, this hike.
A pathway for non-motorized use connects Teton Village with the Aspens and Wilson.
For pathway cruisers check out the bike rentals at Wilderness Sports, Pepi Stiegler Sports, and Jackson Treehouse.
Tandem Paragliding Flights Descend the mountain’s heights on a 20-minute tandem flight with Jackson Hole Paragliding. Certified pilots who’ve logged hundreds of hours flying in the Tetons are eager to introduce first-timers to the unique experience of tandem paragliding.
Trail Rides Saddle up and experience a trail ride at the corrals on the east side of the village. Head out on hourly trail rides astride a quality mountain horse in the company of a real cowboy wrangler.
Photos: Bob Woodall
Mountain Biking The Jackson Hole Bike Park is family friendly, and any novice biker can enjoy it. Ride up Teewinot chairlift, your mountain bike resting on its own retrofitted chair, and cruise down one of six different trails with difficulty ratings similar to those of ski trails. Wide, smooth “green” trails cater to the largest number of riders, who might work their way up in difficulty to the banked turns of “blue” trails. “Dark blue” and “black” trails harbor tight turns, drop features, and jumps. Join in the fun of Friday-night evening rides, complete with a DJ spinning tunes in the plaza while bikers spin laps through the park. For mountain bike touring, no ticket required, ride seven miles of single-track and traverse the entire lower mountain, from Après Vous to the Hobacks. Rolling and winding along the ski terrain, this route was designed and built by year-round resort workers – skiers. Expert cyclists might choose to climb the rocky dirt road to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain and ride the tram back down free of charge (downhill riding is prohibited above the top of the Gondola). Ask a resort employee for a trail map. Bring your own bike or rent one from Jackson Hole Sports or Teton Village Sports, where you may also purchase lift tickets or inquire about bike lessons and bikespecific camps for children.
Disc Golf Play nine holes of Frisbee golf on the free course near the base of the resort. Bring your own discs or buy them at one of the resort’s many shops.
Bungee Trampoline You might be surprised at how high you can jump and the tricks you can pull off with this wildly buoyant summer activity. Fly up to 24 feet in the air, safely. Kids and adults flock to this fun recreational activity.
Climbing Wall Tandem paragliding flights carry certified pilots and their passengers from Rendezvous Mountain to the valley floor.
Mountain Sports School A variety of programs through the year-round Mountain Sports School provide lots of options for families with kids. The Kid’s Ranch Day Camp, the Kid’s Adventure Guides, and the 10-Speed Bike Camp are some highlights for this summer.
Alive@Five
July 4 fireworks in Teton Village and the Town of Jackson
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Artificial climbing walls have sprung up everywhere, it seems. Over a decade ago Teton Village got into the act with its 25-foot freestanding climbing wall. Go “on belay” with the climbing wall attendant and scale the artificial rock positioned near the base of the Clock Tower. Kids and adults get pumped on the activity. Activity tickets for the bungee trampoline and climbing wall are available at the Bridger Activities Center and Jackson Hole Sports.
The entire family will enjoy these free weekly programs on the Village Commons from 5–5:45 p.m. On Tuesdays see an engaging and interactive educational presentation on the wildlife and ecology of Jackson Hole by a biologist from the Teton Science Schools. On Wednesdays meet a real cowboy from the Snake River Ranch, see roping demonstrations,
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Photos: Bob Woodall
Snake River Ranch cowboys work the herd near the Village.
and learn about ranching and cattle in Wyoming. On Thursdays view live hawks, falcons, eagles, and owls while learning about the unique adaptations that make raptors the unparalleled hunters of the sky. See birds of prey at arm’s length and flying free overhead.
Sleep in a Yurt The modern Rock Springs yurt houses a wood-burning stove, eight bunk beds, a kitchen, and a large dining table. Hike up a wooded, 2.5mile trail from Teton Village into the mountains and enjoy the scenery on an overnight with friends. Expert guides cook the food, stoke the stove, and even do the dishes.
On-Mountain Dining Bridger Gondola & the Couloir Restaurant With evening comes the Bridger Gondola as it fires up to transport diners to the Couloir Restaurant. At 9,095 feet, the contemporary and hip restaurant is nearly 3,000 feet above the valley
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The Jackson Hole Aerial Tram whisks passengers from Teton Village to the 10,400-foot summit of Rendezvous Mountain and a Teton view.
floor and provides a unique setting for evening cocktails or dinner. The outdoor deck is a great place for gazing at Corbet’s Couloir and the soaring heights of the Headwall and Tensleep Bowl. The Deck Enjoy happy hour specials like 2 for 1 margaritas, mojitos, draft beers, and wine by the glass. Cast an eye at Corbet’s Couloir and the soaring heights of the Headwall and Tensleep Bowl. It’s the perfect spot to unwind after an adventurous day. Offering a creative summer menu of appetizers and shared plates from the Al Fresco kitchen. Open from June 24 - Sept 12, Sunday - Friday at 4:30 p.m. Closed Saturday. Top of the World Waffles Ride the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram to the summit and enter Corbet’s Cabin at “The Top of the World” for a lasting vacation memory – sweet or savory waffles made on the spot. Also serving snow cones, hot drinks, refreshing cold beverages, beer, grab-n-go-items, and tram souvenirs.
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Relax and enjoy your snacks on the outdoor deck while taking in amazing valley views.
The Taco Truck At the base of the gondola in a small plaza with tables, the Tin Can Cantina serves real homemade tacos. Good eating and easy on the pocketbook.
Rancher Cookout Take a step back in time and enjoy a night in the Old West. Ride in a covered wagon to a historic barn at the base of the Tetons for a cowboy dinner and entertainment. Chef Wes Hamilton and his staff create a night of fun and great grub. The menu includes BBQ chicken, slow roasted tri-tip, cowboy beans, cornbread, salads, grilled corn, dessert, water, lemonade, coffee, and hot chocolate. (June 15 - Sept 15; Tues-Sat, call 739-2654 to make a reservation). — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide, with Lauren Whaley and Anna Cole
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The slopes above Grand Targhee are home to wildflower-strewn trails perfect for horseback riding, hiking, and bicycling.
GRAND TARGHEE,WYOMING
igh on the western slope of the Teton Range, hidden among forests of spruce, fir, pine, and aspen, sits Grand Targhee, a full-service, year-round resort. Over 2,600 acres of terrain perfect for hiking, biking, horse-riding, music festivals, and, of course, skiing lie upon three mountain peaks that stretch upward from the quaint Western village. And from the tops of those peaks, the rugged Tetons seem close enough to reach out and touch.
Scenic Chairlift Ride For the best Teton views possible anywhere, without breaking a sweat, that is, ride the Dreamcatcher chairlift to the 9,862-foot summit of Fred’s Mountain. Use the lift for sightseeing or as a jump-start to a spectacular, high-altitude hike. Take your bike up the lift, too – as long as it’s the downhill variety. Learn about these special bikes and trails at Targhee’s bike shops, Teton Mountain Outfitters in the village Main Plaza, and Habitat in downtown Driggs, Idaho.
Mountain Bike Spectacular single-track trails wind through wildflower-draped meadows near the village, and miles of technical, lift-serviced downhill trails drop from the summit. Bike rentals, sales, and service are available at Targhee’s bike shops, Teton Mountain Outfitters in the village Main Plaza, and Habitat in downtown Driggs, Idaho.
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Hike Hikes from 30 minutes to several hours – to days, weeks, or months for that matter – start from Grand Targhee. Take the Dreamcatcher chairlift and look out upon the Tetons during a moderate two-mile hike to Mary’s Saddle. Rick’s Basin is an easy loop through aspen meadows with valley views and options ranging from two to four miles. Lightning Peak’s nine-mile round trip brings hikers breathtakingly close to the Targhee’s base-area plaza, the perfect family gathering spot. massive west face of the Grand and hiking and climbs 1,300 feet onto Peaked Teton. Guided hikes are available, too. Mountain, where big views of the Tetons await. The Lightning Ridge Loop is designated for Horseback Trail Rides biking, hiking, and horseback riding. Aptly A good horse is still the best companion – named for its high-altitude exposure, Lightning and the best mode of travel – for a long tour Ridge delivers unobstructed views. Downhill through these mountains. The local cowboys mountain bikers will love two of the new trails at Crooked Canyon Stables can saddle up a that were built specifically for this exciting and good steed and show you these mountains the old-fashioned way. Aside from walking, riding a growing sport. Features include enhanced terhorse is the only way to tour the Jedediah rain berms, ladder sections, and jumps. Novice cyclists can ease into trail riding on the new Smith Wilderness Area within the Teton Range. And horses can take you a lot farther than your 1.5-mile beginner trail from the Teewinot Lodge to the horse stables. And cyclists of all levels own two feet. will enjoy the new Mountain Bike Skills Park as New Trails they practice and improve their riding techFive new trails and a Mountain Bike Skills nique on a variety of routes and features loPark are under construction, set to open later cated near the base of the Dreamcatcher lift. this summer. Three trails are slated for multiFor updates on Trail Volunteer Days, special use and two trails are specific to downhill events, and bike camps visit www.grandmountain biking. The Peaked Trail is for biking targhee.com.
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Photos: Courtesy Grand Targhee Resort; Wade McKoy (concert)
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weekend. Take advantage of the free shuttle service and leave your vehicle in Driggs.
Start your Rocky Mountain journey at the Naturalist Center located just off the plaza and get a feel for what critters and plants you may find here – from moose to pine martin, from lupine to forget-me-not.
25th Annual Targhee Bluegrass Festival From Friday to Sunday, Aug. 10-12, this summer’s lineup at the granddaddy of northern Rocky Mountain bluegrass festivals includes The Infamous Stringdusters, Steep Canyon Rangers, Donna the Buffalo, Kanes River, Hot Rize, and Darrell Scott.
Inaugural Targhee Country Fest Country music fans rejoice. This new music fest, produced in partnership with Knitting Factory Presents on July 26-27, has got some chops, as Targhee’s Director of Dining & Entertainment Peter Baker notes: “We are honored that Dierks Bentley and Dwight Yoakam will be the headlining artists for what is sure to be an annual festival.”
Climbing Wall The fun and challenge of sport climbing is at your fingertips at Grand Targhee. Coached by the experienced staff, participants can probe six different routes on an artificial climbing wall in the base area.
Disc Golf Disc golf, a perfect activity for the whole family, is free to all Targhee guests. An 18-hole disc golf course begins at the base of the mountain and meanders through its lower reaches. Rent discs at the Activity Center, where scorecards and maps are also available. An annual Disc Golf Tournament is held late July.
Naturalist Programs Start your Rocky Mountain journey at the Naturalist Center located just off the plaza or at the new new Summer Summit Nature Center at the top of Dreamcatcher and get a feel for what critters and plants you may find here. From moose to
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Lodging At Targhee’s three music festivals, performers play all day and into the night.
pine martin, from lupine to forget-me-not, feast your eyes, ears, and nose on nature’s purest assemblage in the Lower 48 – and learn a little more about it.
Eighth Annual Targhee Music Fest From Friday to Sunday, July 13-15, an eclectic gathering of bands perform in a natural outdoor amphitheater adjacent to Targhee’s base-area plaza. Catch performances by JJ Grey & Mofro, Black Joe Lewis & the Honeybears, Paul Thorn, Trigger Hippy, Josh Ritter, Joe Pug, Trixie Whitley, and more. Food, games, and on-site activities are all a part of this summer music festival. Tent camping on-site is available during the festival
Two western-style lodges are located in the alpine village. A wide range of condominiums, vacation homes, and town homes are available a short distance from the resort.
Dining You won’t go hungry at Grand Targhee, no matter what time it is. The Branding Iron Grill is the resort’s signature dining experience, offering house specialties to suit any persuasion. The breakfast buffet is included for lodging guests who booked the breakfast and lodging package. And it’s a great reason to travel up Ski Hill Road for a hearty morning meal. The Trap Bar, an après-ski institution for over 40 years, serves pub fare amid live entertainment and eight flat-screen televisions for sports days. — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide
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Cody’s Plains Indian Powwow celebrates the culture of the American Indians.
The Buffalo Bill Historical Center showcases the Wild West.
CODY,WYOMING
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by Mike Calabrese
Because Cody lies at the hub of many breathtaking roadways, arriving at, traveling around, or leaving the town affords visitors journeys into scenery unsurpassed anywhere. For starters: The Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway courses alongside the Shoshone River’s north fork, through the Wapiti (a Native American word for elk) Valley and leads to Yellowstone National Park. Another, The Chief Joseph Scenic Highway, besides recalling one of the most heartbreaking events in U.S. history, winds through the Clark’s Fork region, past Sunlight Basin and to the top of Dead Indian Pass. Neither the area’s history nor the lay of the land can be ignored here. One byway, the Beartooth All-American Road, is not for the faint of heart. Its crest at 10,947 feet, some have called it “the most beautiful highway in America.” The vistas here are unequalled and worth their weight in gold – or camera equipment. And those are just for starters. Or “leavers,” if you can pull yourself away from the town itself. A stay in Cody is something like a dig for archaeologists, revealing layer upon layer of life’s insights and adventures. Anglers, bikers, river runners, hunters, hikers, horse enthusiasts, no one drawn to the region’s rich landscape will be disappointed. The North and South forks of the Shoshone River, their waters roiling and teeming with life, play host to adventurers of all ages and abilities. On the river in kayaks or rafts, or casting a line from a bank or into a pool of cutthroat, water recreationists can put their energies to work, sun up to sundown. Families looking for a quick hike into Buffalo Bill’s beloved country can trek pretty much right from the town environs on the Paul Stock Nature Trail. The pathway parallels the Shoshone River and affords views of Heart, Rattlesnake, Cedar, and Carter mountains. Cameras and kids will love this jaunt.
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Photos: Bob Woodall; Wade McKoy (The Scout)
ody, Wyoming, has a lot to live up to. Barely an hour from the nation’s foremost national park, the town and its namesake, the almost mythic Colonel William F. (Buffalo Bill) Cody, are central to the great American West’s history. But its billing as a “get after it community” might just be Cody’s greatest asset. A visit to this living museum of the Old and New West leaves little doubt about the town’s place in the pantheon of mountain-country treasures.
In “The Scout,” a giant bronze sculpture outside the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, Col. William F. Cody signals his finding a track.
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Anglers, bikers, river runners, hunters, hikers, horse enthusiasts, no one drawn to the region’s rich landscape will be disappointed. The North and South forks of the Shoshone River, their waters roiling and teeming with life, play host to adventurers of all ages and abilities. Nightly “shoot outs” next to Buffalo Bill’s Irma Hotel dramatize the Old West.
Bikers, too, find quick easy access into trails, again right from town. Beck Lake Park, Red Lakes, and of course the Paul Stock Nature Trail, make crafting a colorful family outing a snap. The West and horses, both symbols of the region’s landscape, go hand in hand and still tug at travelers to Cody country. Hundreds of miles of trails, full- or half-day rides, or full-blown multiday pack trips await those chomping at the bit to sit a horse. Cody, of course, is no less proud of its cultural features than any other community. But Cody’s palette of offerings has the added benefit of geography and history. Its gem, the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, a constantly growing museum, showcases and celebrates the rich, epochal American West. The town’s complex of historical edifices gives life to Cody’s connection to one of America’s most prized eras, the settling of the West. Buffalo Bill’s Irma Hotel, nearby historic Old Town, Tecumseh’s Old West Village, the Dug Up Cody Museum, to name just a few, should easily keep kids and adults alike wondering about and celebrating history’s eye into the past. Music, too, is permanently etched into Cody’s
living fabric. From cowboy music reviews to chuckwagon dinners with live music, even a jazz festival, the town brims with aural and visual delights.
Ornate spurs adorn cowboy boots.
And, finally, there’s the Cody Nite Rodeo, with all its spectacle, drama, and just plain old family fun. Billed as the Rodeo Capitol of the World, a lodestone of Americana in the Wild West, Cody’s rodeo season runs nightly from June 1 through August 31. (For more information, see story on
next page.) Sometimes, though, the simple things in life yield the greatest treasures. In a move the town’s founders would be proud of, the chamber of commerce has created an audio tour narrated by hometown boy and former U.S. Senator Alan Simpson. An audio clip and a PDF map, both downloadable from www.codychamber.org., allow visitors with their feet on the ground a relaxing view into Cody’s downtown history. Simpson’s folksy, heartfelt narration is the perfect companion for a rewarding walking tour into Cody’s history and its landmarks in town and on the horizons. Travelers with smartphones or access to a computer can log onto the Cody chamber’s website. Second to none, the site hosts a colorful compendium of photos, information, and opportunities for the visitor to Cody country. Just right for families planning the trip of a lifetime into the living West, old and new. Mike Calabrese is a musician, editor, and writer living in Jackson Hole.
The spectaculor Wapiti Valley stretches from the Buffalo Bill Dam to the East Gate of Yellowstone National Park.
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CODY NITE RODEO
By Joy Ufford
Original cowboy sport in the Rodeo Capitol of the World
Dust puffs underfoot as cowgirls and cowboys, little to large, expectant crowds, and rodeo clowns shuffle their boots and silently clutch hats to chests. The setting sun sends shafts of warm light through the evening air and bathes everyone – rider, roper, racer – in a golden glow and sharpens the silhouettes of waiting horses and swaggering bulls. It’s the most magical moment of the night, when a microphone crackles to life and the inspiring lyrics of our national anthem lift hearts around the arena as many sing along with the words that stir them deeply every time –“the land of the free and the home of the brave…” Rodeo is so thoroughly American now (despite roots in vaquero and ranching traditions of Mexico and old California) that it’s mandatory to see the star-spangled banner grasped in a rodeo queen’s hand as she gallops around the arena on her horse, both showing off for appreciative crowds. That’s what rodeo is all about, in a way – showing off. From snaky bulls to snorting broncs, born to buck and born to run; from a glittering rhinestone-studded belt here to some turquoise-fringed leather there. It’s about showing off in a good way, because there’s nothing wrong with living to kick higher, run faster, ride longer, rope quicker. For bull and bronc riders it’s about getting better scores, keeping a tighter handle on their ride. For the bulls and broncs, it’s about putting on a show trying to launch cowboys into outer space. When the sparkling gals tear around on their stretched-out horses, burning turns around three barrels set in sand, speed and style command attention. For the more taciturn ropers, it’s the quick elegance of a rope sailing through the air to catch a steer or calf in a heartbeat or two. Man, woman, or animal, it’s a great way to be alive. There’s nothing like it. Rodeo hasn’t changed much over the years, except to get even better – better horses, meaner bulls, faster times, and more money. But one thing that never changes about rodeo is the contestants’ heartfelt desires to be good, even great, at something they love. The same can be said of their horses, whether buckin’ broncs or muscled mounts: that good feeling of doing a job well holds as true for the animals as it does for the men and women who ride them and for the rodeo clowns who risk life and limb to entertain the crowd. Cody has been called the “Rodeo Capital of the World,” and that isn’t stretching things. Talented cowboys and girls come from Peru, Aus-
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The kids calf scramble provides great entertainment for both younsters and adults.
tralia, Canada – even Japan – to test their skills in Cody Stampede Park vying for big cash and big buckles. And to have an exciting show every night, the rough stock has to buck. The Sankey Rodeo Company, a longtime, highly respected rough-stock and rodeo contractor, is prominent in the colorful world of the Professional Rodeo Cowboy Association (PRCA). Ike and Roberta Sankey, with their sons Ryan and
Yellowstone Xtreme Bulls title. Then there’s the Buffalo Bill Cody Stampede, one of the country’s premiere Fourth of July rodeo celebrations. It’s been playing host to the top cowboys and cowgirls for more than 80 years and is one of nine stops on the Million Dollar Gold Tour Series. Often called "Cowboy Christmas" by the contestants, it’s one of rodeo's crown jewels. For top cowboys and cowgirls, this is the place to win
Photos: Bob Woodall
Team roping is a fast-paced event.
Hanging on for an 8-second ride is the challenge for bronc and bull riders.
Wade, are noted for their renowned rough-stock breeding programs. You’ll see their champion stock at the Cody Nite Rodeo’s 87 “regular” shows (now a town mainstay for 75 years) from June 1-Aug. 31 at 8 p.m. (gates open at 7 p.m.). Nightly events include bareback and saddle broncs, calf and team roping, steer wrestling, breakaway roping, barrel racing and bull riding, as well as a calf scramble for the kids. The youngsters are also treated to trick-roping demonstrations, meeting bullfighters, getting their face painted by rodeo clowns and more. All grandstand seating is covered and affords great views of the arena. Special events include Xtreme Bulls on June 30 at 7 p.m., when 40 of the best riders in the world shoot for the $50,000 purse as well as the Cody-
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big purses and ride the best stock. On July 2, come see who’s “Tough Enough to Wear Pink,” a special program supported by the Cody Stampede to raise awareness of and help find a cure for breast cancer. July 1, 2, & 3 performances are at 8:00 p.m., July 4th performance is at 5:00 p.m. Cody Nite Rodeo tickets are $18 for adults, $8 for kids 7-12. Cody Stampede tickets range from $16-$24. All can be reserved by calling 1-800207-0744, going online at codystampederodeo.com, or stopping at the Stampede Park on the west side of Cody. Joy Ufford lives in Bondurant, where she is a ranch hand and a writer for Pinedale’s Sublette Examiner.
BUFFALO BILL DAM
By Mike Calabrese
Inspired engineering among the crags
Photos: Wade McKoy (right); Courtesy Buffalo Bill Dam & Visitor Center (left)
Perched atop the 353-foot-tall Buffalo Bill Dam, the visitor center affords a spectacular view.
In the heart of Colonel William F. Cody’s old haunt, in fact right on some of Cody’s own land, one piece of Wyoming reflects nature and man at work together, albeit reluctantly. The Buffalo Bill Dam, fashioned from almost 83,000 cubic yards of concrete over five years, sits on the bed of the Shoshone River, in a canyon carved by nature over millions of years. The spectacular undertaking in the Shoshone Canyon claimed the lives of seven men during its construction, no small cost when compared to the pittance (by today’s standards) of the project’s final bill: $929,658. At 353 feet high and 200 feet across, the impressive structure was the tallest of its kind back in its early days, when it was known as the Shoshone Dam. Power and water flowed from the dam, providing lifeblood to farmers, ranchers, and residents in the region upon its completion in 1910. More than 93,000 acres of land in the surrounding Bighorn Basin depend on the liquid gold stored behind the dam for irrigation. In 1946 the dam was renamed in honor of Buffalo Bill, who even then knew the value of the West and perhaps its most coveted element: water. An American visionary, Cody realized that canals could never really supply
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enough water to efficiently nurture settlement and growth in the region. He gave up on his own plan for an extensive canal system and redirected his efforts and support to the construction of the dam. While still reliably fulfilling its original purpose, the dam today draws thousands of admirers and recreationists as well. Buffalo Bill State Park and the reservoir’s waters play host to anglers, boaters, campers, photographers, windsurfers, hikers, cyclists, and those simply seeking a breathtaking place to view the results of nature’s and man’s combined efforts. The visitor center is staffed and open from May to September, affording visitors jaw-dropping views of both the dam and the river. A nonprofit enterprise, the center also offers travelers the chance to grab a cup of coffee while viewing exhibits, enjoying a movie in its theater, or even purchasing tickets to Cody’s Nite Rodeo. The Buffalo Bill Dam is designated a National Civil Engineering Landmark and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. For more information, visit the website at: www.bbdvc.com. Mike Calabrese is a musician, editor, and writer living in Jackson Hole.
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Western hospitality, abundant wildlife, and stunning scenery make Pinedale the perfect base camp for summer activities.
Passing the Green River Lakes, backpackers head toward Square Top Mountain and the Bridger Wilderness.
PINEDALE,WYOMING
Pinedale. There was no chamber of commerce welcome wagon back then. And the convention center itself stretched along the Green River. John Kirk Townsend, a scientist traveling with the Nathaniel Wyeth expedition, described the camp thusly: “There is … a great variety of personages amongst us, most of them calling themselves white men, French-Canadians, half-breeds, etc., their color nearly as dark, and their manners wholly as wild, as the Indians with whom they constantly associate. These people, with their obstreperous mirth, their whooping and howling, and quarrelling, added to the mounted Indians, who are constantly dashing into and through our camp, yelling like fiends, the barking and baying of savage wolf-dogs, and the incessant cracking of rifles and carbines, render our camp a perfect bedlam.” Things are a little more civilized today, but the Old West lives on in the Upper Green River Valley. Previously traversed by Indians, mountain men, and explorers, the region was first settled in the late 1800s by cattlemen taking advantage of its wide-open spaces. Ranching today remains an integral part of the economy, but visitors have now discovered the magical town and valley. Pinedale was founded in 1904 and sits
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Netting a trout is an angler’s joy.
at an elevation of 7,175 feet in crisp mountain air. A few miles away, the magnificent Wind River Mountain Range towers over the settlement like a crown tipped with white gold and bejeweled with azure mountain lakes and emerald forests. A classic Western town, Pinedale lies 100 miles north of Rock Springs and a mere 80 scenic miles south of Jackson Hole. Western hospitality, abundant wildlife, and stunning scenery make it the perfect base camp for summer activities. The list of possibilities for adventurers is impressive. Sightseeing, shopping, exploring history, fishing, hiking, climbing, camping, horseback riding, hunting, boating, sailing, and biking are all on the Pinedale-region bucket list. And there’s plenty of space to do it in: 80 percent of the country surrounding Pinedale is public land, most of it protected by the Bridger-Teton National Forest and the Bureau of Land Management. In fact, Sublette County harbors two wilderness areas and vast tracks of open spaces. More than enough room to roam in and for discovering that special hideaway.
Photos: Fred Pflughoft (2); Wade McKoy (fishnet)
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bout 180 years ago Pinedale began hosting conventions – of sorts. Dubbed “The Green River Rendezvous,” this 1833 mountain man gathering was the first of six to convene just a few miles from present day
Shopping
Before heading out in search of fun, though, check with the chamber of commerce for more detailed regional information. If you’re not yet outfitted for that trip into the great outdoors, town shops can get you fixed up with everything from a cowboy hat to a climbing helmet. Even the local brewpub offers “fishing supplies.” Area artisans, of course, craft ample unique items. More than one visitor has proudly taken home a hand-hewn lodgepole log bed. Continued page 32
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Some 1,300 lakes, and hundreds of miles of fishing streams mark the Pindale region.
Green River Rendezvous and Museum of the Mountain Man By Mike Calabrese
The cry “Meet me on the Green!” was a reminder and a reassurance to early trappers, who spent long and isolated winters gathering beaver pelts. History of the 1830s fur-trade era recreated
Photos: Courtesy PinedaleOnline.com
Cowboys once roamed pretty much everywhere west of the Mississippi and have outlived even their almost mythical epoch of the late 1800s. But mountain men, who made do with less (after all, cowboys always had their horses and cattle), pretty much went the way of the beaver hat by the late 1850s. And yet, the mountain man’s story is every bit the match of the cowboy’s for color and lore, especially when it comes to the “Winning of the West.” For every Bat Masterson, Bill Hickok, and Wyatt Earp, there was an equally notable mountain man. John C. Fremont and William Sublette have a couple of Wyoming counties and mountain peaks named after them. Jedediah Smith and Kit Carson both certainly garnered enough press to earn their places in popular Western culture. And mountain man Jim Bridger is so revered around here that visitors to Wyoming will find no fewer than 21 places honoring him. Fitting, then, that a .40 caliber half-stock rifle of his should end up in the region’s most famous collection of mountain
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A Museum of the Mountain Men educational moment
man history and memorabilia – the Museum of the Mountain Man in Pinedale, Wyoming. Even more fitting, the museum is situated on a hill not far from the site of the original Green River Rendezvous, held in 1833 in the “Valley of the Green.” Over 3,000 Indians, hundreds of mountain men, fur trappers, and missionaries assembled there to barter and trade their goods. The cry “Meet me on the Green!” was a reminder and a reassurance to early trappers, who spent long and isolated winters gathering beaver pelts. The call reached traders who traveled countless miles on hazardous, often life-threatening trails. These rendezvous sometimes lasted for months. Time enough to get supplies, renew friendships, swap stories, trade, tipple and, of course, debauch. Of the 16 rendezvous held during the height of the Rocky Mountain fur trade, six were located in the Green River Valley. Exhibits at the museum provide a good starting point for visitors heading to the 75th Annual Green River Rendezvous, a re-creation of those original mountain man gatherings. This year’s rendezvous, replete with activities for the entire family, runs July 12-15. The Rendezvous Pageant, where over 200 members of the community perform in origi-
nal costumes, is held at the Pinedale Rodeo Grounds. For more information visit the Green River Rendezvous Pageant Association’s website at meetmeonthegreen.com or call (307) 367-2242. The museum captures the ways and lore of these hardy individuals. Clothing, artifacts, rare documents, photos, mounted animals, even the Chief American Horse Warrior Society tipi help bring the days of the mountain man alive. The museum also colorfully showcases western wildlife, Indians, fur trapping, wagon trains, mountain men, and bison in its spacious 15,000-square-foot facility. Bridger’s rifle, given to him in 1853, was at one time part of the Buffalo Bill collection. Fortunately, it has found a permanent home in this rewarding and informative setting. The Museum of the Mountain Man is open daily from 9 a.m. until 5 p.m., through September 30. Admission fees are $5 for adults, $4 for seniors, and $3 for kids 6-12 years old. For more information call toll free (877) 686-6266, go online at museumofthemountainman.com. or visit the museum’s Facebook page. Mike Calabrese is a musician, editor, and writer living in Jackson Hole.
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Photos: Bob Woodall (ranch), Fred Pflughoft (hike)
The massive Wind River Mountain Range dominates the skyline of the Upper Green River Valley.
Titcomb Valley sits high in the Winds.
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Water Water Everywhere Water, in case you haven’t heard, is the west’s lifeblood. Clear mountain creeks, rivers, and lakes are as ubiquitous as the antelope roaming the high plains. Aquatic recreation ranges from fly fishing to waterskiing. A good place to start is Fremont Lake, just four miles from Pinedale. Eleven miles long and 600 feet deep, it’s the second largest natural lake in Wyoming. Fremont sports several public boat launches, a marina, a lodge and restaurant, and numerous campsites. Fishing, waterskiing, sailing,
canoeing, kayaking, and swimming are some of the ways to ply its waters. But Fremont is just one of 10 large glacial lakes strung like a jeweled necklace along the foothills of the Winds. And deeper in the mountains, over 1,300 lakes, many teeming with trout, dot the landscape. From one of these mountain lakes, a major artery of the West, the historic Green River, begins its journey. The main tributary of the Colorado River, the Green’s coveted waters sustain many a Western town. Not surprisingly, the Green is a favorite of anglers hoping to hook one of its six trout species. The upper stretches can be reached from the road, but floating is a preferred access for vast reaches of isolated river. Keep in mind that many other streams emanating from the mountains also boast prime fishing waters.
Horseback Riding
BEST VACATION VALUE IN THE STATE
You are in the West, so get Western. Mount up and hit the trail. Several nearby outfitters provide reliable horses and all the equipment needed for a day in the saddle. You might want to bring your own Stetson, though. Cowboys, even outfitter types, don’t part lightly with their hats. If you want more than a short trail ride, consider booking a week at one of the several area dude ranches. This is a classic way to be immersed in Old West Americana. Some working cattle ranches even offer the chance to cowpoke on a real cattle drive.
Hiking & Backpacking One of the best ways to experience the Winds is to hit the trail. From dozens of trailheads, a vast network of paths reaches into these mountains. They range from easy strolls to arduous treks— some right into the heart of the wilderness. A great way to ease the strain of a 50-pound pack is to rent a llama. These friendly animals can haul up to 60 pounds of gear, freeing the backpacker to enjoy the hike without the burden.
Camping Over 20 developed public campgrounds mark the area, most managed by either the BTNF or BLM. But away from these established campgrounds trekkers can pitch a tent most anywhere on public lands. Check regulations first, however, as restrictions apply. And remember: this is bear country.
Climbing The Wind River Range offers all levels of rock climbing and mountaineering challenges, from simple bouldering to extended ascents of mountain peaks. Sitting astride the Continental Divide, the granitic rock of the Winds provides many excellent climbing routes. In the northern end lies glaciated Gannett Peak. At 13,804 feet, it’s the highest point in Wyoming and shelters the largest glacier in the U.S. Rocky Mountains. The Cirque of the Towers at the southern end of the range is nationally, if not internationally, renowned for its sheer rock walls and scenic grandeur. Pingora, Lizard Head, Shark’s Nose, and Warbonnet are some of the challenging peaks to scale.
Mountain Biking
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75 miles south of Jackson Hole
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The Pinedale region harbors hundreds of miles of backcountry roads and trails, affording mountain-biking enthusiasts plenty of options. Elevation ranges from 7,000 to well over 10,000 feet, terrain varying from flat and gentle prairie to steep mountain slopes. And although biking is allowed on the BTNF and BLM lands, it’s prohibited in the Bridger Wilderness area.
Defining Your Own Vacation From exploring history to exploring the peaks, from mounting a trusty steed to mounting a modern mountain bike, Pinedale and the Upper Green River Valley can provide most of what anyone would desire in a Western vacation. Heck, you might not even miss seeing Old Faithful Geyser. — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide
Photos: Bob Woodall
The Absaroka Mountains, north of Dubois, are a vast wilderness waiting to be explored.
DUBOIS,WYOMING
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et in the upper Wind River valley, the gemlike town of Dubois, Wyoming, is framed by Butch Cassidy’s haunting Dubois Badlands to the east, the stark Absaroka Range to the north, and the majestic Wind River Range to the south. And it’s only an hour’s scenic drive from Jackson (to the west) and Riverton (to the east).
A stroll down the main street, most of it still appointed with boardwalks, yields a taste of Wyoming’s Old West flavor. Log buildings, saloons, quaint shops, and even tipis welcome the travel-weary visitor. In fact, American Cowboy Magazine recently named Dubois one of the “Best Rural Towns in the West.” The nearby Wind River Range, revered by Native Americans for years before the white man’s arrival, is replete with colorful history and wildlife. Shoshone and Sheepeater Indians traveled and hunted throughout this range, which borders the 2.2-million-acre Wind River Reservation, today home to Northern Arapaho and Eastern Shoshone tribes. Backpackers and hikers to the Winds can choose from nearly 800 miles of trails lacing the range’s vast, stunning beauty. Over 150 glaciers work the Winds, beckoning hikers and climbers alike. The Winds are studded with lakes and creeks, themselves teeming with rainbow, cutthroat, golden, brook, German brown, and Mackinaw trout. Anglers should come well supplied and ready to reel. And much of the wildlife that Yellowstone visitors can spy also roams the Winds. The park itself is a mere 55 miles distant. A layover in Dubois for those heading west also provides travelers with a bracing early morning view of the Tetons by way of Togwotee Pass. Keep the camera at hand everywhere in the Dubois country. One of the world’s most magnificent big game animals, the Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep, is showcased in the Dubois area, both indoors and outdoors. The Whiskey Mountain Wildlife Habitat w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
By Mike Calabrese Area, just minutes from town, is home to North America’s largest wintering herd of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep. And the National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center, in downtown Dubois, provides an awe-inspiring venue for the country’s most impressive display of these noble creatures. Dubois is not some sleepy little Wyoming town
On the banks of the Wind River, Dubois is a doorway into the historic past.
scrambling for tourists. Dubois is that little diamond doorway into the historic past and the region’s endlessly picturesque outdoors. Want to know more? Call: 307-455-2556. Mike Calabrese is a musician, editor, and writer living in Jackson Hole.
All natural Jackson Hole beef raised on conservation land and finished with spent grains. Our beef are steroid and antibiotic free and are always humanely treated by gentle cowboys. Mead Beef is dry-aged for 21 days for the most succulent steaks and bodacious burgers.
For more than 100 years, in the shadows of the Tetons, the Hansen/Mead Family has raised the highest quality beef available. Available at the Jackson Hole Farmers Market and at these fine Jackson Restaurants & Grocers: Pearl Street Meat and Fish Co. • Snake River Grill Rendezvous Bistro • Q Roadhouse Il Villaggio Osteria • 43 North • Mangy Moose The Calico • Ignite • The Wort Hotel
Jackson Hole Natural Beef, LLC Jackson, Wyoming • 307.734.3911 www.meadranchbeef.com
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Photos: Bob Woodall
Boaters recreate on Snake River rapids near Alpine.
On the shores of Palisades Reservoir, Alpine is also surrounded by mountains.
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little over a half-hour from Jackson, the alpine community of, well, Alpine, has been quietly luring residents and travelers for years now. Something of a gateway village, Alpine, Wyoming, boasts every square inch the jaw-dropping scenery of Jackson Hole and pretty much all of the same exhilarating recreational opportunities. What it doesn’t have, though, is the crush of visitors who make their way into Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks. Alpine, then, might be the ideal spot to lay over in, before or after making that push through the region’s high-profile parks. Nestled at the mighty Snake River Canyon’s mouth, the town lies a stone’s skip away from pristine waters just begging for families to cavort in and around. It’s perched alongside the Snake, Greys, and Salt rivers, and opens up onto the vast big-water playground known as the Palisades Reservoir. Campers, anglers, hikers, horseback riders, boaters, kayakers, hunters – pretty much every type of outdoor enthusiast who’s ever romped beneath the Tetons – know that this playground extends well beyond the town limits. For years now, Jackson’s pricey real estate has nudged caravans of folks south along the Snake River to this charming area. Homesites can still be purchased here without taking on a debt
By Mike Calabrese service that might overwhelm average-family budgets. So critical is this bedroom community, that daily weekday START buses shuttle workers and visitors alike between Alpine and Jackson. Something to keep in mind for visitors staying at either location. Travelers, too, are picking up on Alpine’s amenities. The confluence of waters, geography, and accommodations in the community provides ample outlets for visitors to mountain country. RVers, who often come up empty-handed in places with shrinking or disappearing RV parks, have no trouble finding spots to tarry in near Alpine. Just outside the town, travelers can head up the Greys River road or wend their way around the reservoir or into the Snake River Canyon itself to camp, picnic, and recreate. The Palisades Reservoir, claiming 25 square miles of water, 70 miles of shoreline, and yearround fishing, rests right in a bonanza of mountain landscape. Of course, with this much water, one would expect nearby wetlands and waterfowl viewing areas – just like the one a few miles south of town. The Palisades is home to native cutthroat, browns, kokanee, and mackinaw, and because motorized craft are permitted on the lake, anglers can cover a lot of water. Naturally, a reservoir this expansive would be fed by equally impressive sources. Like the Snake
and Salt rivers. But it might be the Greys River that really surprises. Accessible from right downtown, this beguiling, limpid waterway winds through a gorgeous valley and is nearly paralleled by a good national forest roadway. The Wyoming and the Salt River Ranges hem the river’s idyllic setting and help explain its appeal to campers and trekkers. Anglers quickly warm to the river’s accessibility and prized trout population, while kayakers celebrate the Greys’ early season sporting challenges. The town itself serves a diverse, demanding community of natives and transplants alike. Both they and a regiment of resident Jackson workers who happily commute through the Snake River Canyon daily expect what residents in any western town do: restaurants, watering holes, medical services, and a community calendar that nourishes a healthy social life, all the elements that knit together mountain-country towns. They’ve found it in Alpine, Wyoming. And so can anyone else lucky enough to arrive at this notso-hidden valley among the stars. For more info and an introduction to Alpine and its offerings, go online at www.starvalleychamber.com. Mike Calabrese is a musician, editor, and writer living in Jackson Hole.
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CLIMBING
Enter the ramparts of the Gods
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at a high level,” he said. “But physical strength doesn’t work alone, and doesn’t account for all that much if you don’t also have the necessary mental strength and fortitude. There are people who aren’t necessarily that strong, but that are super accomplished because mentally they’re so tough, they push so hard.” Climbers like fun, too, but they need discipline. In climbing, many have found a discipline that transcends the sport. “When I’m up on a route, I’m completely in the moment,” Hess said. “I’m not thinking of anything else. All the distractions, the baggage of life, the various forms of Other peak and route names stress, you’re leaving everything honor the first “modern” American else behind, thinking fully on climbclimbers, William Owen, the Reving what’s in front of you, focused erend Spalding, Glenn Exum, and on the right-then-and-there.” Paul Petzoldt among them. Hess said this total focus is Compelling today as ever becleansing. It’s freedom – and that fore, these majestic peaks still there aren’t many things like that beckon valley visitors to explore a in life. canyon, to pause beneath a stand “Martial arts masters talk about of towering old-growth timber beachieving that focus without a disside a rushing stream, and then to cipline,” said Hess. “They say Westclimb toward the summits. Those erners need a discipline to achieve who heed the call are enriched by that state of consciousness where the process of work, achievement, you’re not thinking about anything rest, and reflection. else. Where you’re focused.” “The initial lure of climbing, and And within the discipline of still the bottom line for many of us, climbing, there is more: a different is it allows us to be in a lot of kind of adrenaline fix. places that a lot of people don’t get “For me, the exhilaration comes to be,” said Jackson Hole Mounfrom working through fear,” he said. tain Guides’ head man Rob Hess. “Controlling fear and not letting it This sense of privileged pas- A young climbing student ascends the Grand Teton. overtake me.” sage, revered in the Majestic peaks still beckon Many guides lives of mountaineers, look at the job as a fuels the fires of dedipassersby, to walk up a way to give back cation. Those who canyon, to sit beneath a stand to a lifestyle they haven’t had a chance love. of towering old-growth to let climbing into their “Climbing is lives on such an intitimber beside a rushing self-centered,” mate level – yet – can stream, and then to climb said Hess. “Everyespecially benefit by thing you do is hiring a guide. And one toward the summits. about personal dewho puts all the task’s Those who heed the call velopment. Yes, demands into perspecare enriched by the process you have partnertive. ships, and those “You have to work of work, achievement, are some of the through the times rest, and reflection. best parts of being when it’s not fun, when Repeling on the Grand Teton, within “spitting distance” of a climber. But, funyou’re grinding uphill The Enclosure with a heavy pack,” said Hess. “But once you’ve made it and been some- damentally, you’re developing your own physical and mental self. So for me, to solve the problem of giving something back in life, the obvious solution is place special, it gives you a sense of accomplishment.” The hard work and challenge yield high wages, and it doesn’t stop there, being a mountain guide. To take that knowledge, that exuberance, and that enjoyment of the mountains and help someone else enjoy that.” either. Center yourself and heed the timeless call of the Tetons. Hire a climbing “The initial adrenaline becomes euphoria when you’ve worked through a climb,” Hess added, “especially if you make it up something where you went guide and find out why even indigenous peoples scaled these majestic summits to perform their most revered spiritual ceremonies. through some fear.” And that’s where a strong mindset comes into play. — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide “For any discipline, you have to train your mind and your body to work w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
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Photos: Wade McKoy / Wilderness Ventures
he Tetons have drawn body and soul since Lakota braves first looked upon the craggy peaks from their Jackson Hole hunting grounds. Those Native Americans ventured into the vertiginous rocky landscape of rarified air, selected a peak and built a shrine of large, flat stones set on edge – their site for Vision Quests. The Enclosure, a peak within spitting distance of the Grand, is named to honor that historic Lakota temple.
HIKING
Some of my favorite places
Fall colors this Teton view in Cascade Canyon, with Teewinot, the Grand, and Mt. Owen towering in the distance.
by Becky Woods
Grand Teton National Park Begin your park exploration at the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center in Moose. A free orientation film, exhibits, helpful staff and a selection of maps and guidebooks will enrich your time spent in the Tetons. Fill your water bottle and head down the inner park road to the turnout for String Lake at North Jenny Lake Junction. The signed Leigh Lake trail begins at the north end of String Lake parking area. This pleasantly wooded path parallels first String, then Leigh lakes— framed by the best close-up views of Mount Moran in the park. If this spectacular hike whets your appetite for more (and it will!) check out the Lake Creek/Woodland Trail Loop in Laurance S.
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Rockefeller Preserve or the perennial favorite trail to Hidden Falls departing from the South Jenny Lake parking area. An early start is recommended for both these justly popular trails, to secure both parking and relative solitude.
Photos, clockwise from top left: Bob Woodal (1, 4); Wade McKoy (2, 3)
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xperiencing the landscape of Greater Yellowstone from inside your vehicle is akin to window-shopping: it only offers a glimpse of the treasures that wait within. Incomparable scenic vistas, wildflowers, and wildlife lie beyond the asphalt. Put on your walking shoes and hit the dirt on the favored trails suggested below. They won’t disappoint.
Jackson and Teton Village Visitors lodging in the town of Jackson or Teton Village will find rewarding hiking in their respective “backyard” ski areas. A network of trails honeycombs the summit and base of Snow King Mountain in Jackson; download a free map at friendsofpathways.org/resources. Riding the chair lift to the summit of Snow King and hiking 1.8miles down to the base is a popular option. The panoramic view showcases Jackson and the five mountain ranges surrounding this mountain town. The tram ride to the summit of 10,400-foot Rendezvous Peak in Teton Village instantly transports you to the alpine zone and tremendous views of the Gros Ventre Range enclosing the east side of Jackson Hole. Set off on the Top of the World Trail to the Cody Bowl Spur Trail and Green River Overlook for views of the Tetons and the valley floor far below. Double-back, or continue on the Rock Springs Trail to the Summit Trail to com-
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Hidden Falls reveals itself to hikers who venture into Cascade Canyon’s lower reaches.
Cascade Canyon cuts a deep rift in the Tetons.
Hardy wildflowers flourish in the elevated 10,000-foot alpine zone.
plete the memorable 4.2-mile Cody Bowl/ Rock Springs Loop. Trail maps are available at jacksonhole.com.
Idaho’s Teton Valley. “Wydaho� boasts spectacular hiking. The level hike up South Teton Canyon provides a world-class warm-up before moving on to knock-your-socks-off views at Grand Targhee Ski Resort. The new Bannock Trail skirts the lip of South Leigh Canyon as it climbs to the top of Fred’s Mountain. Outstanding wildflowers and views make it the trail of choice.
Yellowstone
The nation’s first national park deserves a lifetime of exploration. Assuming your vacation isn’t quite that long, one has to be selective. Luckily, some of the best short hikes in the park bring you up-close-and-personal with its major attractions. Pinedale Cerulean blue Grand Prismatic Spring—the Pinedale is the portal to the Wind River Range, world’s largest known hot spring—commands at- arguably the best backpacking range in the lower tention as you near Old 48 and home to 15 of Faithful. Dubbed the Wyoming’s 16 highest “Earth’s Eye,� it can be The nation’s first national peaks. Day hikers will want reached via the boardwalk park deserves a lifetime to check out Green River at Midway Geyser Basin. Lakes. These comely bodCheck the geyser eruption of exploration. Luckily for ies of water attract caschedule at the Old Faithful vacationers, many of the noeists and anglers, and Visitor’s Center when you arprovide reflecting pools for best short hikes get up- impressive rive: if you’re lucky, you’ll be Squaretop able to hike to impressive Mountain, an oft-phoclose-and-personal with Castle Geyser to witness it tographed Wyoming landsome major attractions. mark as recognizable as the spout off, an event that only occurs twice a day. Elephant Grand Teton. An attainable Back Loop Trail, south of panorama of the Winds’ Fishing Bridge, offers an elevated view of Yellow- high peaks is found at Photographer’s Point. The stone Lake backed by Mt. Sheridan, snowtrail begins at Elkhart Park, located at the end of capped well into summer. Trails to the bottom of Fremont Lake Road. thundering Tower Falls and through the terraces at Mammoth Hot Springs both earn spots on the Cody don’t-miss list. This author’s personal favorite, The heart of the Old West and eastern gateway however, is Uncle Tom’s Trail at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. This path, the oldest in the town to Yellowstone, Cody’s charm is multipark, drops into the canyon for so-close-you-get- faceted. Both the Paul Stock Natural Trail and the wet views of 308-foot Lower Falls. Early park vis- Shoshone Riverway parallel the Shoshone River, itors held onto a knotted rope to make the steep offering a kid- and pet-friendly means to stretch descent. Today’s visitors hike on open-mesh, steel your legs and perhaps sight waterfowl and steps. Inexpensive trail maps can be purchased wildlife. Inquire locally for directions. More advenat various visitor centers, or downloaded in ad- turous is a hike/easy scramble to the top of Heart vance at www. yellowstone-natl-park. Mountain, located equidistant between Cody and Powell off Hwy. 14. This geologic anomaly rises com/maps.htm. above the sage, its 8,123-foot summit offering a Grand Targhee/Teton Valley scenic peek into Big Horn Basin. Explore remThe west slope of the Teton Range lies pre- nants of the Heart Mountain Camp at the concludominantly in Wyoming, but is accessed through sion of your outing. This WWII Japanese w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
internment camp is a state historic site under consideration for national park status. Rebecca Woods has penned numerous highly regarded guidebooks to the Greater Yellowstone region, including Jackson Hole Hikes, Targhee Trails, and Beyond the Tetons.
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MOUNTAINBIKING
Jackson Hole’s single-track trails a biker’s Nirvana
Game Creek trail sports dozens of banked turns that add fun and thrills to Jackson Hole mountain biking.
and up the banked-turn switchbacks to Putt Putt, then rolls through the meadowlands high above the creek as it takes riders back to the trailhead. Easier still, ride Cache Creek’s mellow-grade dirt road as it climbs lazily up-canyon to the Gros Ventre Wilderness boundary (leave your bike at
Greater Snow King Area Visitors to Jackson can ride the Greater Snow King Area from the hotel. Or drive to the Cache Creek trailhead, where numerous single tracks veer off in every direction. Large maps at trailhead kiosks not only look impressive, but they give bikers a bird’s eye view of bike trails that traverse the slopes above Cache Creek and travel far into the mountains. A variety of rides can be put together to suit all comers – families, cruisers, and hard-cores. A short, effective familiarization loop heads up Sidewalk as it traverses the flower-strewn hillside above Cache Creek itself, branches onto Wiggle
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The Jackson Hole Bike Park in Teton Village is designed for riders of all levels.
the boundary for a bike-hike combo – no bikes allowed in the wilderness area). Longer rides continue through sunny fields of wildflowers and aspens on the south-facing Putt Putt trail extensions and among shadowy tall timber on the north-facing Hagen trail. Climb Ferrin’s and connect with Game Creek for a 20-plus-mile
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loop back to town on the paved Von Gontard, Paul Merritt, and Russ Garaman pathways. Or climb up Game Creek and descend into Cache Creek for a long, mellow downhill ride back to town.
Teton Village The new Jackson Hole Bike Park in Teton Village is all the rage among many mountain bikers this year. It’s a family-friendly experience, and one that any novice biker can enjoy. Ride up Teewinot chairlift with your bike and cruise down one of six different trails assigned difficulty ratings similar to those of ski trails. Built by Gravity Logic, one of the world’s premier mountain bike park developers, this new park represents the finest in trail design and construction. Table-top jumps allow novice riders to catch air and land safely even if they don’t make it all the way to the landing. Banked-turn sections feel like a roller coaster ride. The flow and rhythm keep bikers coming back to the chairlift for another lap. The chairlift bike rack is easy to use. Simply roll your bike into the rack with no lifting, seat yourself in the next chair, and the top lift attendant hands you your bike. This system delivers lap after lap of downhill mountain biking in a seamless, energysaving fashion. One Teton Village resident, 9-year-old Evan Brunner, proved what continual laps in the bike
Photos, clockwise from top left: Wade McKoy (1, 2); Julie Weinberger (3)
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ention Cache Creek or Teton Pass to mountain bikers and watch them go goofy with admiration. That’s because miles of single-track were designed and built by some of the best minds in Jackson Hole when it comes to mountain-bike aesthetics. A combined staff from the Bridger Teton National Forest and Friends of Pathways manned the trail crews and labored alongside volunteers from a wide range of institutions, including the Boy Scouts of America, the Freedom Riders, and even a work crew from the state penitentiary.
For those interested in gaining some sweat equity, volunteer dig days are held every Friday from 8 a.m. to noon. These work parties are essential to trail maintenance – and fun too – as they bring a lot of different people together. park could do for a rider’s skills and endurance. Last summer – after spending all day, every day, riding the park – he tied for third place in the men’s pro division of the 12-hour Red Bull Final Descent downhill mountain bike race. That’s right, guys. A nine-year-old hung with the adults and beat all but three men. Better put in some more laps this year, fellas. The Jackson Hole Mountain Resort also maintains seven miles of single-track that traverse the lower mountain from Après Vous to the Hobacks. Rolling and winding with the ski terrain, this route was designed and built by year-round resort workers – skiers – and is a fun, short mountain bike tour. Expert cyclists might choose to climb the rocky dirt road to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain and ride the tram back down free of charge (downhill riding is prohibited above the top of the Gondola). Pick up a map from any employee.
Grand Targhee Grand Targhee, high in mountains on the Teton’s western slopes and a short scenic drive through Teton Valley, Idaho, actively keeps pace with the growing bike community through a variety of both rolling cruiser and lift-accessed downhillspecific trails. At 8,000 feet, base-area cruisers include Ricks Basin and Quakie Ridge. Experts can take their downhill mountain bike up the chairlift and bomb down the jumps and berms on Easy
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are under construction, set to open later this summer. Three trails are slated for multi-use and two trails are specific to downhill mountain biking. The Peaked Trail is for biking and hiking and climbs 1,300 feet onto Peaked Mountain, where big views of the Tetons await. The Lightning Ridge Loop is designated for biking, hiking, and horseback riding. Aptly named for its high-altitude exposure, Lightning Ridge delivers unobstructed views. Downhill mountain bikers will love two of the new trails that were built specifically for this exciting and growing Old firewood roads, cherished by mountain cyclists in the 1980s, are sport. Features include enovershadowed by today’s smartly designed bike trails. hanced terrain berms, ladRider, or ride their cross-country bike out to der sections, and jumps. Novice cyclists can ease into trail riding on the Mary’s Saddle and the Teton Vista Traverse. Over a dozen double-track and single-track bike trails new 1.5-mile beginner trail from the Teewinot give riders great views in the company of wild- Lodge to the horse stables. And cyclists of all levels will enjoy the new flowers and aspens. Continued page 41 Five new trails and a Mountain Bike Skills Park Mountain Bike Skills
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PATHWAYS
Pathways in Grand Teton National Park stretch all the way from Jenny Lake to the National Elk Refuge.
ackson Hole Community Pathways are a model for success. Nationally recognized by the League of American Bicyclists as a gold-level Bicycle Friendly Community (BFC), Jackson Hole is helping lead America into to a future that includes widespread bicycle use.
The valley’s notable pathway system grew out of nearly two decades of work by locals who formed the advocacy group Friends of Pathways and town officials. And efforts at the federal level by the late Wyoming U.S. Senator Craig Thomas were essential. Even The National Park Service eventually signed on to the concept. Veteran local cyclists happily note their unqualified appreciation for the current pathway system. “We are so lucky,” said Walt Berling, a resident cyclist since 1976 and a pathways representative to the county task force. “Wherever I travel, I look at pathway systems. Ours is one of the best, really well designed and interesting to ride.” And it covers a lot of ground. Bicyclists can now ride an auto-free asphalt lane from South Park to Jackson, all the way up to Moose, and then to Jenny Lake. Or from Wilson to Teton Village, and then up to Poker Flats (and, it’s hoped, one day on to Moose). This summer another milestone pathway section in Grand Teton National Park, connecting the Elk Refuge pathway (and Jackson) to Moose, opened for cyclists and all non-motorized users. “This is definitely a landmark,” noted Tim Young, former Friends of Pathways executive director. “The new section, with its Teton views, will be one of a kind in the world.” Lots of communities are also getting into the pathways frame of mind. The League of American Bicyclists notes that “There are now 190 BFCs in
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46 states. Cities are choosing to invest in bicycling, even in these tough economic times, as a key element of places people want to live, work, and visit.” Teton County pathways program coordinator Brian Schilling reapplied for the BFC four-year designation this year. “We got gold again,” he said. “We’re not at the platinum level quite yet.” To reach that top level – only three places have it: Boulder, Colorado; Davis, California; Portland, Oregon – Jackson would begin to focus on outreach and education.
Riding from Teton Village on the paved pathway makes the kids happy. Moms and dads, too.
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“Those platinum communities do a lot more to help people shift modes away from driving a car to riding a bike,” said Schilling. “They do the outreach, walk people through it. Soon it becomes as simple as jumping in the car.” That transition takes some effort, though, even for dedicated road bikers. “I go though it every spring,” said Schilling of his seasonal move to bike commuting. “It takes me a week to shift my brain from driving mode to biking mode. After four days of logistical retraining, it becomes second nature and my default mode is to jump on the bike.” It’s not all about the bikes, though. Cyclists might be the largest user group, and bicycle-commuting the focus in pathways advocacy, but hundreds of people enter the pathways to walk, roller skate, exercise the dog, stroll with the baby, or recreate as families. Cross-country skiers even use pathways for roller skiing in summer. Walt Berling, for 25 years the Jackson Hole High School Nordic coach, counts on pathways for the team’s summer training. “Willie Neal was a member of our team,” Berling said. “He was killed roller skiing in Maine on a quiet road. We don’t roller ski on the roads at all anymore. “Willie would be excited to see the progress on our pathway and trail system. He was the first high school ambassador on the county Pathways task force and was a section leader during the construction of the Phillips trail system by the Arrow Scouts (this Boy Scouts of America troop mobilized 650 scouts to work alongside Forest Service and Pathways trail crews and built 10 miles of single-track mountain bike trail on Teton Pass in a mere five days).” Lots of kids take to the pathways, too, as an-
Photos, clockwise from top left: Wade McKoy (1, 2); Bob Woodall (3)
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Jackson Hole Community Pathways a national leader
Bicyclists can now ride an auto-free asphalt lane from South Park to Jackson, all the way up to Moose, and then to Jenny Lake. Or from Wilson to Teton Village, and then up to Poker Flats (and, it’s hoped, one day on to Moose).
Pathways make biking to work a cinch.
Mountain Biking Continued from page 39 Park as they practice and improve their riding technique on a variety of routes and features located near the base of the Dreamcatcher lift. For updates on Trail Volunteer Days, special events, and bike camps, visit www.grandtarghee.com. Pick up a map at the activity center.
Wilson Cyclists can ride from downtown Wilson up the paved Old Pass Road (non-motorized vehicles only, 2,000-plus-foot climb) to the top of 8,416foot Teton Pass. Downhill specialists often drive up the pass to the Phillips Canyon trailhead to access Jimmy’s Mom, a super fun and tech-y downhill-only trail. Either way, the ride options in the Teton Pass Area are many, with the Arrow Trail, Sno-Tel, Phillips Ridge, and Phillips Canyon trails in the mix. The trailhead at the top of the pass accesses loop possibilities with the Black Canyon trail, and Lithium – another downhill-only route. Or head west to Mail Cabin Creek or Idaho’s Mike Harris trailhead.
Etiquette Bikers must yield to all other users on forest trails. Expect to see hikers and horse riders on many of these routes. Cyclists riding downhill should yield to cyclists riding up. No trail user should be deaf. It’s dumb, and
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other veteran cyclist, Wilson resident Ellen Fales, has noticed. “Parents feel safe letting their kids go out on bikes,” said Fales. “In the beginning, people thought it would devalue their property. But it became an asset, especially if they had kids.” With functional systems completed in much of Jackson Hole, the “missing link” joining east to west – a pedestrian bridge spanning the Snake River – should see construction begin in 2013. “The bridge will unite both those systems into a complete, connected network,” said Schilling. “We’re on the leading edge, having comprehensive networks for bicycle and pedestrian mobility.” Jack Koehler, Friends of Pathways vice president, recalls the conversation that got it all started. “At the first public meeting on pathways,” said Koehler, “the question was, ‘Why don’t we have a better bicycling infrastructure?’ Now it seems
pathways are the heart and soul of Jackson Hole.” As with so many others who helped shepherd Jackson Hole’s alternative transportation movement, Koehler feels transformed by their success. “Pathways have become less and less about me as a cyclist,” he said, “and more about the community and how it can function. How people can move about and experience the outside world.” Mike Welch, the organization’s executive director, perhaps best distills the Friends of Pathways mission: “It’s about health and wellness and a connection to the environment,” he said. “When people choose to leave the car at home, and to walk, ride, or roll to work, to run errands, even to recreate, I think you’re creating a closer connection to your environment and to your community.”
dangerous, too. Turn down those tunes so you can still hear other people coming…and the lions, moose, and bears that, rest assured, are out there, too. Ride open trails only. Respect wilderness and national park closures and private property. Give wildlife a wide berth. When cycling on the paved pathway system, please alert others when approaching from behind and pass them respectfully and safely.
of local mountain bikers, have played a critical role in designing and building the downhill-specific mountain bike trails in the Teton Pass Area. They continue to log thousands of hours each summer buffing out those bike trails. Check out their unique story at tetonfreedomriders.org. Teton Freedom Riders host volunteer dig days once month. Happy trails!
— Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide
— Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide
Maps Free maps at friendsofpathways.org/resources, a local nonprofit advocacy group, are also available at bike and outdoor shops, along with several good local guidebooks. Volunteer trail-crew workdays are posted at Friends of Pathways on Facebook.
Trail Crew These amazing trails are the result of a partnership between the Bridger-Teton National Forest and Friends of Pathways, and a variety of service organizations. For those interested in gaining some sweat equity, volunteer dig days are held every Friday from 8 a.m. to noon. These work parties are essential to trail maintenance – and fun too – as they bring a lot of different people together. The Teton Freedom Riders, a dedicated group
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FISHING
Catching wild, native trout in majestic mountain surroundings
The One-Fly fishing contest on the Snake River often brings stormy weather, further challenging anglers while perhaps enhancing Teton Views.
he mesmerizing whisper of the river’s current. The graceful arc of a fly line as it travels through the air, silhouetted against a kaleidoscope of colorful wildflowers and vibrant green cottonwoods, framed by the purple/grey Tetons and deep azure sky. That breathtaking image mirrored at your feet on the water’s surface pleasantly interrupted by the vibrant golden form of a cutthroat trout encircled in its rise form. Fly fishing in Jackson Hole is the captivating combination of catching wild, native Snake River cutthroat in majestic mountain surroundings. And a fine a catch it is! The indigenous Snake River fine spotted cutthroat is gold in color, peppered with small The fine-spotted Snake River cutthroat trout black spots and accented by its signature crimson throat markings. Thanks in part to inch-long Chernobyl into the current of the Snake evolution, it dominates the waters of the Snake to matching the hatch for large selective cutts on River system. Additionally, the population has Flat Creek, Jackson offers some of the best dry fly been protected and enhanced through special fishing in the world. Overall, Snake River cutts are regulations, habitat restoration projects, and the aggressive surface feeders. This evolved survival Snake River’s Wild and Scenic River Designation. trait is needed to take advantage of a relatively Snake River cutthroats average from six to short summer season and finite food sources. twelve inches, but mature fish up to 18 inches are These feeding habits at times make for less sonot uncommon. My largest taped in at 27 inches. phisticated fishing, so an angler with basic skills and a rudimentary fly selection has a good chance There are non-native fisheries that yield a larger average trout size, but none compare to Jackson’s of fooling a fish. It might not always be a huge fish, oversized fishing experience, scenery, and tran- but the opportunities to catch numerous cutts and quility. Regardless of their size, all wild native fish refine your angling skills are very high. Jackson Hole is one of the best places for a complete are trophies. Plying waters with dry flies is considered the novice to land a sizeable trout on a dry fly. In genessence of fly fishing. The intimate encounter of eral our streams aren’t hatch-specific but offer fish trout and angler transcending their worlds to meet a variety of insects to feed on. Consequently, visiat the water’s surface is magical. From casting an ble attractor patterns like Trudes, Stimulators,
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Chernobyl Ants, and my Convertible fish very well. They don’t imitate anything exactly, but look like many of their foods. The area around Jackson holds a variety of waters to fish, and the gamut includes streams, high mountain lakes, large valley lakes, mid-size rivers, and the sprawling majestic Snake River. Preference for adventure can be matched with options ranging from roadside angling to floating to day hikes to overnight backcountry adventures. Teton County is 97 percent Federal land, consisting mainly of Bridger Teton National Forest and Grand Teton National Park, so the options are almost unlimited. The anglers you are most likely to run into are eagles, ospreys and herons. Deer, elk, bison and moose are frequent companions, and you just might spot a bighorn sheep, bear, or wolf. You can experience this on your own or with the assistance of a local guide. June is spring in Jackson and is fairly limited for stream fishing since most waters are swollen with snowmelt. Better fishing options this time of year include area lakes, bordered by great terrain for early season hiking. Bradley, Taggart, Bearpaw, Phelps, and Trapper lakes in Teton Park are easy hikes into fishable waters. Phelps has trophy size cutthroats and lake trout, while the others hold a mix of moderate size cutts’ and brook trout. Bear spray, though, is standard issue when backcountry fishing in Jackson Hole. You don’t need to be scared, but you should be bear aware. Around the end of June, Snake tributaries like the Hoback, Greys, and Gros Ventre rivers start to clear. This coincides with the huge Salmonfly hatch
Photos: Scott Sanchez (this page); Wade McKoy (cast); Bob Woodall (fish, flies)
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by Scott Sanchez
A native cutthroat trout takes the bait. Chernobyl Ant, anyone?
Plying waters with dry flies is considered the essence of fly fishing. The intimate encounter of trout and angler transcending their worlds to meet at the water’s surface is magical. trout quality and quantity. on the Hoback, and good quantities of caddis and September is prime season on the Snake River small stoneflies bring trout to the surface of all and I might call this a perfect place and perfect three rivers. All three drainages offer camping, hiktime. Trout feed on Hecuba, blue wing olive, and ing, backpacking, and cycling options and all have mahogany mayfly hatches as they fatten up for fishable tributaries and lakes. This combination of winter, and the fall colors against the deep blue waters offers over a hundred public accessible sky are the icing on the cake. The larger cutts miles of fishing. The Gros Ventre is eight miles group up as they north of Jackson, the move towards winter Hoback 13 miles habitat, and when south of town, and the you find them, you Greys enters the can spend considerSnake about 40 miles able time casting to south of Jackson. good size rising fish. Fishing will be good With about 90 miles through mid Septemof water between ber. Jackson Lake Dam The Snake River and the mouth of Palclears around the isades Reservoir and middle of July and many public access can provide good dry points, you can find fly fishing through mid your own section of October. Because of the Snake. the large stoneflies The sunset reflecthat hatch during the Fly selection takes practice. Will it be a Trude, a tion of the Tetons in summer and the im- Stimulator, or a Convertible? the water as you reportance of terrestrials in the trout’s diet, we can fish very large dry flies lease a trout back to its home is unbeatable, and that are eagerly eaten by the trout and easy for the the memory is an open invitation back to that spot and place in time. novice or us old guys to see. Initially, just after the rivers clear, your catch will Scott Sanchez, the fly tying columnist for Amerbe mostly small trout, but as August progresses, ican Angler magazine, has contributed photos and larger trout will move out of the tributaries post spawn. The Snake’s size can be intimidating, but articles to numerous fly fishing magazines in the much of it is braided with channels and side chan- U.S. and Japan. He has written three books: Intronels of various sizes. This makes it easier to wade duction to Salt Water Fly Tying, A New Generation fish some sections of the river, a bit like having a of Trout Flies, and A Never Ending Stream. The bunch of smaller streams. The best way to fish the Federation of Fly Fishers awarded him the Arnold Snake, though, is with a guide and from a drift Gingrich Lifetime Achievement Award for literary boat. This affords the most access, and while you accomplishments and the Buz Busek Fly Tying will fish from the boat, a good part of the day also Award for contributions to the world of fly tying. can be spent wade fishing areas that the non-boat angler can’t access. This is the best option for Scott’s books can be found in area fly shops. w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
Proper casting technique comes with practice.
The Complete Resource For All of Your Fly Fishing Needs in Jackson Hole.
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RIVERRAFTING
Alpine scenic and whitewater float trips top adventures
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et the front seat if you can. That’s the first advice, that’s where the action is. Rafting in the Greater Yellowstone region is not only recommended, it’s practically required. The area is so packed with burly whitewater and peaceful flat water that to return home without getting on the river is like taking a trip to Hawaii and never going to the beach.
Photos, both pages: Bob Woodall; Morgan Colonel (scenic raft)
Scenic Float Trips Sometimes all you may want is unhurried silence, so a float through Grand Teton National Park provides the perfect answer for a quiet, lazy afternoon. The scenic upper section of the Snake is much different than its whitewater counterpart. The water is much calmer, though still fast-moving, and the river is braided with side channels. The shoreline varies greatly along these sections of river, as dense forests of spruce and lodgepole pine give way to the deciduous stands of cottonwoods and aspen, where beavers like to make their home. All the animal species of Jackson Hole use this riverbottom habitat at one time or another. Rafters frequently spy moose, elk, deer, bison, pronghorn antelope, eagle, osprey, duck, river otter, muskrat, and fine-spotted Snake River cutthroat trout. Occasionally a black or grizzly bear makes an appearance, sometimes even a wolf. Scenic floats allow for more of an interpretive trip for Moose and other animals routinely swim passengers, the raft’s pilot the river to change shores. Right: The often shedding light on the Tetons framed with dense forests of spruce valley’s history, its fur trap- and lodgepole pine – hallmarks of scenic pers, western heritage, and float trips. geography. Designated a National Wild and Scenic River, special sections of the Snake receive federal protection, including stretches running through the canyon and Grand Teton National Park and through confluences with a dozen of its tributaries. The sensitive regulations should help the ecosystem remain healthy and vibrant ensuring that future generations may also enjoy this remarkable river. (see snakeriverfund.org)
Whitewater Float Trips The eight-mile whitewater stretch of the Snake River just below Jackson Hole may offer the finest one-day introduction to rapids in the country. As you load up to begin your trip, something changes. You realize just how different a raft feels than the car you’ve been driving in. As you grip the paddle and peer out over the river, carrying the collective weight of a long winter, you understand why this is still considered an adventure. Time on the water is time well spent. Learn to enjoy that twinge in your gut as you round a bend and hear a roar like the sound of ocean waves breaking on the beach. If you’re nervous – good, that’s the idea. The anxiety will soon be replaced by exuberance after you’ve pounded through some beefy waves and come through upright and alive. There is a golden moment, just as you enter the smooth, slick tongue of a big rapid, when time stands still and the world is quiet despite the chaos around you. These are the moments on a river trip that create memories you’ll take home with you. Call early, though, especially during those hot summer afternoons when everybody is looking for a splash in the face.
Whitewater rafters experience the exhileration of pounding through beefy waves.
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— Tom Bie and Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide staff writers
SCENICCRUISES
Majestic Jenny Lake beckons
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6$1'6:+, 7(:$7(5 &20
by Mike Calabrese
where passengers can really put still and video cameras to good use. o surprise that this part Scenic cruises run from of the Rockies piles up the June 16 through September snowfall during long, some30. Adults are charged $15 times epic, winters. But that and children ages 2-11, $7. deep white blanket yields The aluminum vessels hold up quite another treasure come to 44 passengers and can be rented for private events like summer: water – lots of it, family reunions, wedding parperfectly clear and startlingly ties, or corporate gatherings. cold. Some of it is held jewelThe daily shuttles over to like right beneath the Tetons the Cascade Canyon trailhead in Jenny Lake, one of Grand run every 15-20 minutes. Teton National Park’s most Adults can make the roundtrip beloved features. for $10, $7 if only one way; And a scenic boat cruise with kids ride for $5 regardless. park concessioner Jenny Lake Rent a canoe or hop a motorboat For the independent waterBoating affords visitors a unique for a shuttle or scenic cruise. craft pilots out there, Jenny way to ply those limpid waters and appreciate the Lake Boating also rents kayaks and canoes. OnTetons’ splendor. line at www.jennylakeboating.com. This outfit knows its way around the lake, too. Mike Calabrese is a staff writer and copy editor These are the same local folks who expertly shut- for Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide. tle boatloads of sightseers between the dock and Jenny Lake’s prized west side, where Cascade Canyon trailhead begins. The trailhead leads passengers to two of the more revered park attractions, Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point. Thousands of park visitors make this pilgrimage every summer, some on foot around the lake’s southern shore, many by way of the shuttle boat. Sometimes that picture-perfect but brief lake tra• Magnificent Teton views verse leaves passengers wishing for more. So a • Shuttle service to Hidden longer, more leisurely scenic cruise around this Falls & Cascade Canyon beautiful body of water might be just the ticket. A Jenny Lake Boating cruise offers an alter• Handicapped accessible boats native way to view the Teton landscape and • Canoe & kayak rentals some of its flora and fauna. And a longer tour on the lake, a glacial body formed roughly 12,000 years ago, enables expansive views of the massive Tetons, their canyons, and alpine landscape. www.jennylakeboating.com Boat pilots and guides reveal the area’s history 307-734-9227 and geology during the hour-long scenic cruises Authorized concessioner of Grand Teton National Park
N
10 mile float trips inside GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK
www.solitudefloattrips.com Authorized concessioner of Grand Teton National Park
Scenic cruises on Jenny Lake throughout the day
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STAND UP PADDLE BOARDING
I
Ancient Hawaiian sport comes to the Rockies
It gets even stranger down by the river. Helmeted and wearing wetsuits, these paddle surfers ride the waves and eddies like kayakers who’ve decided to walk on water. But it’s for real and it’s here to stay. Stand up paddle boarding, also called SUP, is the fastest growing water sport in the world. Over the past few years, activity has migrated from coastal cultures – ultimately from its ancient Hawaiian roots – and found its way into the Rocky Mountains. As it turns out, the Snake River’s many and varied water features create a first-rate playground for stand up paddle boarders. From its flat water and small riffles, eddies and waves, to its bigger and more powerful white water, the Snake delivers the goods to all levels of SUP recreationists. “All the sections of the Snake are awesome, from the dam to the Palisades,” said Aaron Pruzan, who, along with several fellow kayakers and skiers, pioneered SUP river use in Jackson Hole in 2008. Pruzan continued, “At low water, when as kayakers we had no interest, with SUP we found an incredible playground with hundreds of features that we’d never considered before. Smaller water lends itself to the speed and edging of these boards, as opposed to the modern kayak that’s designed for big, powerful features.” Pruzan and a Jackson Hole crew of Tommy Moe, Ian MacKay, John Souter, Will Taggart, Bill Dyer, and Dave “The Wave” Muccinno, all full-time skiers in winter, embraced the new sport with relish. And the skiers adapted quickly. “Everybody was figuring it out in different ways,” said Pruzan. “We didn’t have a book, just trial and error. A lot of us hadn’t done anything totally new for a long, long time. So the river standup thing gave us a huge opportunity in that regard. It was pure amusement.” Utilizing their multi-sport experience in balance, edge control, and river features, they learned quickly. “Our first year we fell through all the rapids,” said Pruzan. “Now we fall only periodically. We’re carving hard eddy turns and surfing sizable river waves. It’s so much fun.” Jackson Hole vacationers interested in SUP are in luck. Pruzan, who owns Rendezvous River Sports and rents SUP gear, also offers lessons on the Snake’s calmer stretches near Hoback Junction. A good mix of flat water, small waves, and eddies make it the perfect outdoor classroom. “People learn very quickly,” said Pruzan. “I
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Photos: Bob Woodall (right); Wade McKoy (SUP)
t’s a strange sight at first. Perhaps not what you expected to see in the Tetons. Someone standing on the water, in the lake, paddling a big surfboard.
Small rapids and eddies meld with the speed and edging of stand up paddle boards.
teach paddling technique, how to establish momentum with the board, and the correct balance position for paddling through small waves. Learning to edge the board comes next. You just press your foot down. And if you fall off, it’s easy to climb back on.” Of course, the locals have lots of practice falling into the water. And even as advanced practitioners, parting from the SUP is pretty common. “We still fall in a lot,” said local SUP enthusiast Bill Dyer. “We’re always trying new things, and when you do that you often fall.” After learning how to propel the board in a
straight line, rookies quickly find themselves ferrying across the currents or touring the lakeshores. Some SUP enthusiasts, like local skier-turnedwaterman Ward Blanch, even prefer paddling on lakes. “For me,” said Blanch, “it’s all about long tours on Jackson Lake, going forever along the shore and out into the open water. You can cover some miles. And you get such a great, full-body workout.” Not to mention startling views into the water from the elevated perspective that SUP provides (wear polarized glasses and you’ll likely pick out some fish). So the next time you drive by Jackson Lake or the Snake River and spot people seemingly walking on water, imagine how exhilarating it must feel! Consider giving it a try. You just might see for yourself why SUP has grown from its humble, beach-boy origins into the biggest thing since hula-hoops. — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide
Don’t Spread Aquatic Nuisance Species Racing across the wild natural resources of North America, a horrifying invasion of aquatic nuisance and invasive species is creating environmental destruction. Rapidly growing aquarium weeds thoughtlessly discarded into local waterways—as well as dozens of exotic shellfish, snail, and fish species that have arrived and have been poured mostly into the Great Lakes as foreign shipping ballast—are choking out native species. Recreational boaters, hikers, canoeists, kayakers, hunters, rafters, and campers can unknowingly pick up and relocate everything from the tiny New Zealand mud snail, zebra and quagga mussels to strands of Eurasian milfoil, hydrilla and water hyacinth aquatic grasses and hundreds of other invasives. A growing number of western states that have
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lagged behind in education, prevention, and legal prohibition dealing with these deadly aquatic nuisance species are now moving ahead quickly with new programs. Idaho and Wyoming are the latest entrants and join Arizona, Utah, Colorado, and Montana. Before launching any watercraft, clean, inspect, and dry equipment that is wet from previous trips. Scrub wading boots, Aqua Sox, and wader gear. Put watercraft, trailers, ropes, and anchors through approved hot-water power washes. Check each planned travel state for its requirements. Internet web sites for state game and fish departments have the latest information to stop aquatic invasives. For more info on Wyoming regulations: www. gf.state. wy.us/ fish/AIS/ Decal. — Paul Bruun
BOATING ACCESS
OVERNIGHT KAYAK TOURS ON JACKSON LAKE “I would trade a dozen nights in a 4-star hotel for one more night on Jackson Lake.”
The Snake River’s Lunch Counter Rapid gives surfers and kayakers an exciting ride.
Yellowstone National Park In Yellowstone National Park, motorboats, canoes, rowboats, kayaks, sailboats, and windsurfers are allowed on Yellowstone and Lewis lakes, but only paddle boats on Shoshone Lake. Leave the jet skis home! All other rivers and lakes are closed to boaters. Life preservers and permits are required. Boats can be rented at Bridge Bay Marina. Online: www.nps.gov/yell. Info: (307) 344-7381. West of Yellowstone West of the park, the Madison River provides white water from Ennis Reservoir through Bear Trap Canyon and idyllic (although there’s nothing idyllic about the Bear Trap section) floating to its confluence with the Missouri River. Info: (406) 683-3900. Green River & Pinedale Area The Green River between Pinedale and Big Piney is primarily utilized for fishing. For information, go to www.blm.gov/wy and pull up a cool map of every BLM field office and district in the state. Just point and click. The short story: Fremont (scads of opportunities and amenities here) and Half Moon lakes, near Pinedale, allow paddle craft and power and sailboats; and Green River Lakes, north of Cora, allow paddle craft only. Boatloads of info at www.visitpinedale.org. Or call the Pinedale BLM field office: 307-367-5300. Cody & the North Fork In Cody, river runners can catch Class III rapids on the North Fork of the Shoshone River from Yellowstone Park to the reservoir, or combine placid water with Class IV rapids on the main Shoshone from the reservoir to just past town. River info: www.blm.gov/wy is the place to start. For hiking and camping info go to www.fs.fed.us/r2/shoshone/districts/windriver.htm or call (307) 527-6241. Water skiing, fishing, and windsurfing are enjoyed on the Buffalo Bill Reservoir, west of Cody. Info: (307) 587-6076 or online at www.bbdvc.com.
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Grand Teton National Park Boating is restricted to non-motorized craft, except on Jackson and Jenny lakes, where motorboats (10 hp or less on Jenny Lake) are allowed. Again, leave the jet skis home! Launches along the Snake River access a variety of waters, some dangerous, all beautiful. Life preservers and boat permits are required, and rangers patrol very effectively for enforcement. Info: (307) 739-3399. Canoes, pontoon boats, and small powerboats can be rented at Signal Mountain or Colter Bay marinas on Jackson Lake. Boaters will have to register their craft at the Moose Visitors’ Center, where more information is available in one of the country’s newest and coolest visitors’ centers. Naturally, a host of floating, fishing, kayaking, canoeing, sailboating, and scenic concessionaires operate by permit within the park, all researched by going online at www.nps.gov/grte. Bridger-Teton National Forest Class III and IV whitewater on the Snake River begins at West Table and runs eight miles through the Snake River Canyon. Self-registration, while not required, is available at West Table. This section is crowded and dangerous at times. Check regulations and abilities before setting out, especially on this section of the Snake. Permits are required. Scenic float waters that also hold sport fish include the South Fork of the Snake. On the Web: www.snakeriverfund.org. Info: (307) 734-6773. Other rivers in the area offer everything from serene scenery to challenging rapids. On the Web: www.fs.fed.us/r4/btnf. Everything you wanted to know about recreating on regional and national federal land. Or call (307) 739-5500 for information on running the Buffalo Fork, Gros Ventre, Hoback, or Greys rivers. Other lakes in the area: Slide Lake, east of Jackson (windsurfing, sailboats, paddle craft); Palisades Reservoir at Alpine Junction (power and sailboats). — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide
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SEAKAYAKING
Touring Wyoming’s Alpine Lakes
S
ea kayaking the still-pure alpine lakes of Yellowstone and Jackson Hole promises an unusual mix of tranquility and excitement. And the opportunity to spot native trout, majestic birds of prey, and perhaps even the likes of bears or wolves is driving a growing contingent of avid paddlers to board these sleek high-tech kayaks.
merous put-ins provide a variety of day-trip options. Those prepared to camp can choose from among a dozen backcountry campsites. But hiring an experienced outfitter almost guarantees a memorable experience, as proven by OARS kayak tour company. OARS client Amanda Arnold’s posts are typical: “To camp on an island right under the Tetons was just wonderful! We loved traveling into the backcountry with guides who knew what they were doing. It was nice that everything was “You could go anywhere: Baja, Maine, the San planned for us, where we would camp, what we Juan Islands, Alaska – our lake kayaking experiences would eat.” are just as good,” said Aaron Pruzan of Rendezvous The Tetons remain just as impressive in the rearRiver Sports, a complete paddle sports store and view mirror, however, for paddlers who head to Yelkayak tour company. lowstone to traverse the biggest lake of them all. With One classic trip, for example, leads paddlers into shorelines so remote, and wildlife so complete, many the remote Shoshone Lake in Yellowstone National outdoor enthusiasts consider the region the center of Park. The three-day excursion launches from Lewis the recreational universe. Lake boat ramp. Paddlers follow the shoreline’s Yellowstone Lake, a scenic two-hour drive from fields, forests, and hot pools to the inlet. After naviJackson, is raw wilderness. At 7,732 feet above sea gating a few miles of small river channel, boaters A pelican encounter is a special treat. level, Yellowstone Lake rests a thousand feet higher glide into Shoshone Lake. “There are no motorboats once you leave Lewis Lake,” said Pruzan. “The than Jackson Lake and claims three times the acreage, its 136 square miles remoteness, the quiet, the hiking in Shoshone Geyser Basin – it’s sublime, lapping against 110 miles of shoreline. Boaters can probe these waters safely along the shores of West Thumb. subtle.” “It’s a great one-night if people want to get in the backcountry a little Restricted to paddle craft only, the waters of Shoshone Lake ensure a singular peace and quiet. Other lakes, beautiful as they are, host a variety of ways,” said Pruzan. “We go along the south shore of West Thumb, through The Narrows, and around Breeze Point to a really nice campsite. Not many craft and may yield a less isolated experience with nature. Jackson Lake is one such place, although the stunning Teton landscape power boats in that zone.” Again, the absence of motorized craft adds to the venture’s sublimity. easily overshadows any distracting company. Forty square miles and nu-
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Photos: Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild By Nature Gallery; (pelican); Wade McKoy (kayak)
Boating enthusiasts can find quiet solitude paddling sea kayaks on regional waters like Grand Teton National Park’s Leigh Lake.
The Tetons remain just as impressive in the rear-view mirror for paddlers who head to Yellowstone to traverse the biggest lake of them all.
Glasslike waters – one of the many joys that await paddlers.
“In two days we can access Flat Mountain Arm,” Pruzan continued. “It’s really pretty, with amazing views of the Absaroka Range, the Trident Peaks, Stephenson and Dome.” A full circumnavigation of Yellowstone Lake’s roadless shoreline, from Sedge Creek Bay to West Thumb, takes five to seven days. The five-day version involves cutting across the imposing open water of the South Arm. A guide can help. “It’s a pretty significant crossing,” said Pruzan. “At The Promontory we assess the weather. If there are impending thunderstorms we don’t do that crossing.” Early mornings are less risky, as with all crossings on the lake. But even the best-laid plans sometimes get scattered by Mother Nature. “I was guiding a family trip with four moms and four kids last August,” said Pruzan. “We launched early but a thunderstorm came out of nowhere. We got back to shore in a sheltered area and waited it out for 20 minutes, all bundled up. Then the weather broke and it became sunny and calm. Everything dried and it was beautiful. That’s the nature of thunderstorms up there.” The Jekyll-to-Hyde transformation of a body of water under strong winds can be both frightening and exhilarating. But the boats are designed to handle wind and rough water, and in the hands of the willing and skilled it can be an adrenaline-fueled success. “How big the waves can get is pretty impressive,” said Pruzan. “Being in a 20-foot tandem sea kayak and to have the waves pick up the whole bow. Doing surf-style launches on those windward beaches. It’s exciting.” The sheer sporting nature of sea kayaking aside, the landscape’s the thing. Yellowstone’s and Jackson Hole’s wildness and purity are equally prized among sea kayakers. “We’ve seen elk and moose swimming, that’s pretty cool,” said Pruzan. “And fleets of pelicans flying in formation at one of the world’s largest pelican breeding grounds, that’s an amazing sight in the sky. And, of course, watching the Minute Man geyser go off.” The end of the Southeast Arm of Yellowstone Lake is about as far away from people as you can get in the Lower 48. “In the heart of August, the peak of the busiest season, you get down there and you don’t see anybody,” noted Pruzan. “Not a single other perw w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
son the whole time. Pretty amazing.” For those with less time, OARS offers half-day guided kayak tours on Yellowstone Lake. Experienced boaters may go it alone but must obtain permits for boats and backcountry campsites in Yellowstone at the South Entrance. Or inquire at other entrances for the nearest permitting station. Permits for Jackson Lake can be obtained at Grand Teton National Park’s visitor center in Moose. — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide
WILD by NATURE G A L L E R Y
Wildlife & Landscape Photographs by Henry H. Holdsworth Limited Edition Photographs, Books, Note Cards 95 W. Deloney • Behind the Wort Hotel • Box 2673 • Jackson, WY 83001 • 733-8877 www.wildbynaturegallery.com 2 0 1 2 T E TO N & Y E L L OW STO N E A DV E N T U R E G U I D E
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Photos: Bob Woodall
HORSEBACKRIDING Western family fun
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Trail rides lead visitors and locals into landscape vibrant with wildflowers and wide-open country.
here’s west, and there’s The West. Not a direction, mind you, but a place steeped in history and cowboy lore. Images of it flow into your mind like a flash flood in a Western movie. Gunfights at high noon, wagon trains stretched across the high plains, John Wayne hunting down the bad guys, and the cowboy astride his horse, riding into the sunset. Well, here you are in the West, so why not connect with the lore of the past by throwing your leg over the back of a trusty steed and heading for the hills. Although loping off into the horizon may not be on your agenda, finding a horse to mount and ride couldn’t be easier. No matter where the Western visitor travels, trail rides are available. And there are many ways to indulge that wanderlust. The simplest is a two-hour ride. If that leaves you hankering for more, consider half-day or full-day rides. For the ultimate Western experience, though, sign on for an overnight or multi-day pack trip. The ultimate cowboy-up experience? How about a full week at a dude ranch! “It is good Western family fun,” said Laura Child of the A-OK Corral. “Jackson Hole is known for its cowboy and mountain man heritage and that is the way they saw it, so by going on a horseback ride you can step back in time and see it like
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Ranch-family life sometimes happily blurs the line between work and play.
Dudes are pampered in a rustic setting with a full plate of activities, including daily trail rides, cookouts, campfires, Western sing-alongs, and rodeos.
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they would have.” Never been on a horse? “Not a problem,” said Marilyn Dahle of Yellowstone Outfitters and Teton Village Trail Rides. “Seventy-five percent of our riders have never been on a horse; it’s fun to take inexperienced people and see the big smiles on their faces and the satisfaction when they learn to ride.” Yellowstone Outfitters leads riders into the Teton Wilderness, where spectacular views of the Tetons unfold around every bend. “The thrill of just being on the back of a horse,” she said, “is part of the Western adventure that people are after.” “Agreed,” noted the late Cameron Garnick from the Triangle C Dude Ranch. But that’s not all. “You can see much more,” he pointed out, “because you are not having to watch the trail. You can look around at the 360-degree view, enjoy the smell of the sage, the sounds of the forest, listen to streams, and drink in the landscape—and physical limitations can be overcome.” Traveling at 4-5 miles an hour, horses can cover lots of territory, and in a short time riders can be deep into the mountains. Plus, “you are doing it the way it was done by Indians, mountain men, and cowboys,” said Garnick. Now that you’re longing to hit the trail, what’s next? Well, dress the part. You don’t need to go out and dude yourself up in full cowboy regalia, but a few items will make the ride more enjoyable. Cow-
Cowboy boots usually work best in stirrups, flip flops not so well.
boy boots are best, although any closed-toed shoes are fine. Sandals are not recommended. Long pants and a hat are advisable, and because the weather can change rapidly here in the real West, bring a raincoat. Also on the short list are insect repellant, sunscreen, sunglasses, water bottle, camera, and binoculars. Next, decide how much time you really have for spending in the saddle. Like most outfitters, Yellowstone Outfitters, Teton Village Trail Rides, and the A-OK Corral offer two-hour, half-day, and full-day trips. If that’s not enough, they also offer overnight and three- and six-day pack trips, as well as fishing trips to the Yellowstone River and the Gros Ventre Mountains. And if you want the Western adventure without spending the whole
High-altitude streams are easy to ford astride a trusty steed.
time on a horse, check out the overnight wagon train trips. Spend half of the trip on the wagon and the rest on horseback. In Teton Village hop on a horse or covered wagon and ride off to a dinner cookout. Campfire cookouts come complete with a singing cowboy serenading campers by a fire under the star-filled sky. If a couple days in the saddle have not reined in your desire for an Old West vacation, consider a stay at a dude ranch, the ultimate Western experience. In the 1880s the term “dude” was applied to dressed-up city slickers, especially to Easterners vacationing in the West and who affected elaborate “Wild West” getups as paying visitors at a “dude ranch.” While some places call themselves “guest” ranches nowadays, seek out
ones that have not dropped the “dude” from their name: those will be the ranches offering the most authentic experience. A proper dude ranch regales its guests with the romance of the West for a full week. Dudes are pampered in a rustic setting with a full plate of activities, including daily trail rides, cookouts, campfires, Western sing-alongs, and rodeos. Ranches tailor their weeks for singles, couples, families, and groups. You’re smack dab in the middle of The West, so take advantage of it! Whether it’s for two hours or a whole week. Saddle up—and happy trails to you! — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide
Take in the fabulous views from the back of a horse!
HORSEBACK TRAIL RIDES
Guided Horseback Trail Rides 2 Hour & 4 Hour Rides
Yellowstone Outfitters TETON WILDERNESS - HORSEBACK TRAIL RIDES WILDERNESS 3 TO 6 DAY PACK TRIPS
Cowboy fun for the entire family! We offer rides for... 1 hr • 2 hr • 1/2 day • All day Over night pack trips. Only 15 minutes south of Jackson
307-733-6556
307-543-2418
www.horsecreekranch.com aok@wyoming.com
Permittee of Bridger Teton National Forest and Teton Wilderness Area • Outfitter License #085
Permitted by BTNF Equal Opportunity Service Provider
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A
Many successful bird hunters hone their skills by skeet shooting.
shotgun wedding? Really, in this day and age? It kind of stands apart from the standard fare of Jackson Hole activities, doesn’t it? Apart from, yes, but not alone, now that a new attraction has been added to that list: “shooting.” In all fairness, it should read, “sport shooting,” a more accurate term for the enterprise. This is the West, and guns, shooting, sport, weddings and yes, even shotguns, are woven into its colorful fabric. Especially in this part of Wyoming, where The Jackson Hole Shooting Experience has now carved out a new niche. In fact Trip Adviser now ranks The Jackson Hole Shooting Experience as the #1 attraction in Jackson Hole! No small accomplishment given the stiff competition from Mother Nature and one of the West’s most high-profile resort communities. History might be on this business’s side. Wyoming and the West figure large in the evolution of firearms and sport. Black
Jackson, already widely celebrated for its hunting opportunities, is now on the map for sport-shooting enthusiasts, too. powder shoots at mountain men rendezvous, world-class big game hunting, the Buffalo Bill Historical Center’s Cody Firearms Museum, all are testimony to the place of guns in the Old West The Cody Firearms Museum chronicles the evolution of the gun. and New West. for combining the sports of cross-country skiing and target shooting. Jackson, not surprisingly, has supplied the U.S. Olympic Biathlon team Ironically, the founder of Jackson Hole Shooting Experience is himself a with several members, one of whom is even in the hall of fame. After all, non-hunter. Former town police officer Shepherd Humphries presides over Jackson is the West, nestled right in the snow-flush Rockies, a perfect place
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Photos: Wade McKoy, pheasant hunter Ray Riedman ; Courtesy Buffalo Bill Historical Center; Courtesy Jackson Hole Shooting Experience
SHOOTING
Learn a pioneer skill from a pro
THE VIRGINIAN LODGE & RV PARK Saloon & Liquor Store • Restaurant Convention/Meeting Facilities
Jackson Hole, Wyoming
JACUZZI SUITES OUTDOOR HEATED POOL OUTDOOR HOTTUB RV PARK 750 West Broadway 800-262-4999
307-733-2792
www.virginianlodge.com
# A Taste of the Old West # Youngsters can also enjoy sport shooting.
the company (and some of the “shotgun weddings” of course – more about them later). His introduction to shooting was sparked “as a teenager in the hills, where I first became interested in 22 target practice,” he recalled. Target shooting, obviously, predates its entry into the 1924 Olympics. And firearms, as any enthusiast knows, lay claim to a long history, especially here in the U.S. Sport shooting itself dates back to 1872 and those first matches held in New York. On a more modern note, the 2004 Olympics spotlighted three shooting competitions: rifle, pistol, and shotgun. Humphries notes that his business can provide for all those interests at the Jackson Hole Gun Club site, south of the town of Jackson. “It’s truly one of the best,” he says. “It has a covered shooting area, two separate pistol bays, a classroom.” Jackson, already widely celebrated for its hunting opportunities, was not always on the map for sport-shooting enthusiasts. Humphries stumbled on the idea helping friends when he was a training officer for a sniper team. “A few years ago, I took a friend out; he had a home here. He wanted to shoot some of his guns, and he suggested to me, ‘You ought to take out city slickers like me and teach them about shooting.’” And so he does. “There are opportunities for all levels,” he pointed out. “From both ends of the spectrum. And I do it year-round, even during down times of spring and fall.” Unlike the black powder shoots held only during summer mountain man gatherings, “sport shooting is always in business.” As for that shotgun wedding, folks looking for something fresh for their guests, should look into one of his outfit’s more novel offerings. “It’s really more for sporting, for a good time,” he said. “My wife and I got married here about eight years ago, and because all the relatives came here, we were looking for things to do.” But Humphries and his crew can even bring shotguns and skeet right to private offsite events for what is arguably one of the more unique services possibly attending a matrimonial or corporate gathering. In addition to shotgun and trap experiences, his company provides certified pistol- and rifleuse instruction. For more info log on to: www.shootinjh.com or call 307-690-7921. — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide
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Novice Shooters & Experienced Marksmen Welcome! Multi-Gun Rifle & Pistol Experience (our most popular, well-rounded experience for all ages and skill levels)
The BIG Shot Cowboy Action • Shotgun Clays Youth Introduction Group Rotational Events Customize Your Experience Today!
SEIZE YOUR JACKSON HOLE SHOOTING EXPERIENCE TODAY!
www.ShootInJH.com today to reserve YOUR 307-690-7921 Call unforgettable Experience!
Customized Shooting Experiences Year-Round
Families Wedding Parties Couples • Groups Corporate Events Youth • YOU!
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Hostel
Grand Targhee Resort
Renovated in 2011. Enjoy a comfortable & inexpensive stay in Teton Village at the base of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. We have private rooms & beds in shared bunkrooms. Both options come with a private bathroom. High season: $84–$99. Low season: $39–$54. Bunk room:$18–32.
Grand Targhee offers convenient, comfortable, and flexible lodging both on-mountain and in Teton Valley. Whether you desire to be at the Resort or on Ski Hill Road you have immediate access to the areaʼs summer adventures including mountain biking, horseback riding, rafting, fly fishing, and much more. Alta, Wyoming 83414 1-800-TARGHEE 307-353-2300 www.GrandTarghee.com
Box 583, Teton Village, Wyoming 83025 307-733-3415 www.thehostel.us, info@thehostel.us
Jackson Hole Super 8
Kendall Valley Lodge
A year-round mountain lodge & guest ranch with a bar & restaurant. In the Upper Green River Valley & adjacent to the Bridger-Teton National Forest, it is the closest lodge to Square Top Mountain and Green River Lakes. At the end of Hwy 352, it is located 27 miles north of Pinedale and 79 miles SE of Jackson Hole .
Experience true Western hospitality in the heart of Jackson Hole. Just steps away from the free city bus, river rafting, and other recreation. Complimentary breakfast, evening popcorn, free wireless internet, microwave/refrigerator,cable TV with HBO and free local calls. Custom packages & group rates. 750 S Hwy 89, Jackson, WY 83001 800-800-8000 / 307-733-6833 www.jacksonholesuper8.com jacksonholesuper8@wyom.net
125 Rock Creek Road, Cora, Wyoming P.O. Box 705, Pinedale, Wyoming 82941 307-367-2223 wolflake@centurytel.net
Mountain Property Management
Painted Buffalo Inn
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HOTELS ~ MOTELS LODGES ~ RESORTS
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Discover the color of a great vacation at the Painted Buffalo Inn. We offer comfortable rooms for the budget conscious traveler. Unwind in our sauna or indoor pool and wake up to a continental breakfast. Weʼre located 3 blocks from the town square with a shuttle stop on property. Mention this ad when booking and receive 5% off your stay. 400 West Broadway, Jackson, WY 83001 800-288-3866 / 307-733-4340 www.paintedbuffaloinn.com info@paintedbuffaloinn.com
We offer a wide selection of Jackson Hole lodging, featuring vacation rental homes, condos and cabins to suit all tastes and budgets. A broad selection of properties cater to the diverse requirements of visitors. Rentals range in size from one-bedroom condos to custom luxury mountain estates. Many properties are located minutes from Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, Grand Teton National Park or the southern entrance to Yellowstone National Park. Jackson, Wyoming 83001 1-800-992-9948 307-733-1648 www.mpmjh.com
LODGING INDEX
Photo: Bob Woodall
LODGING GUIDE
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A DVENTURE G UIDE L ODGING & D INING I NDEX
LODGING & RV PARKS ALPINE, WYOMING
BULL MOOSE LODGE 22 cozy rooms furnished with knotty pine paneling, hand made lamps & furniture, red cedar bathrooms. At the entrance to Snake River Canyon on Hwy 26 & 89, 40 minutes from Jackson Hole. 307-654-7593 or 1-877-498-7993 pg 34 FLYING SADDLE RESORT Offers spectacular mountain views, a Steak & Seafood House & Western bar. Convenient access to a wide variety of outdoor activities makes us the perfect choice for your next vacation. www.flyingsaddleresort.com. 877-7724422 pg 34
CODY, WYOMING BUFFALO BILL’S CODY/YELLOWSTONE COUNTRY Information center, 836 Sheridan Av., 800-393-2639 www.yellowstonecountry.org pg 60
DUBOIS, WYOMING TRIANGLE C RANCH 3-6 day traditional summer dude ranch vacations with programs for the whole family. www.trianglec.com (800) 661-4928 or 307- 455-2225
GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Stay and play! Come enjoy a comfortable mountain getaway with lodging both on-mountain & in Teton Valley. See stunning Teton views and enjoy scenic chairlift rides, biking, hiking, horse-back riding, fly fishing & family dining. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 25 & 54
JACKSON, WYOMING MOUNTAIN PROPERTY MANAGEMENT offers a wide selection of Jackson Hole lodging, featuring vacation rental homes, condos, and cabins to suit all tastes and budgets. www.mpmjh.com, 800-992-9948 or 307-733-1648 PG 54 PAINTED BUFFALO INN Offers comfortable lodging in the heart of downtown Jackson, 3-blocks from the Town Square. Swimming pool, sauna & shuttle stops are just a few of the conveniences we offer. 400 W. Broadway, www.paintedbuffaloinn.com 800-288-3866 pg 54 SUPER 8 Experience true Western hospitality in the heart of Jackson Hole. Complimentary breakfast, evening popcorn, free wireless internet, microwave/refrigerator. Custom packages & group rates. www.jacksonholesuper8.com, 750 S Hwy 89, Jackson, 800-800-8000/307-733-6833 pg 54 VIRGINIAN LODGE 170 rooms, jacuzzi suites, swimming pool, restaurant, saloon, liquor store, convention facilities. 750 W Broadway. 307-733-2792 or 800-262-4999 pg 53 VIRGINIAN RV PARK 105 large spaces, 64 pull-through spaces. 50 amp electric, full sewer hook-up, cable TV, laundry, swimming pool, restaurant, saloon and liquor store. 307-733-7189 pg 53
PINEDALE, WYOMING HAMPTON INN & SUITES PINEDALE, We have 102, comfortable, clean rooms! Amenities include fitness room, pool, business center, complimentary breakfast, laundry/valet service. Call for information on one of our event discounts. West side of Pinedale, www.pinedalesuites.hamptoninn.com 307-367-6700 pg 32 KENDALL VALLEY LODGE A year-round mountain lodge & guest ranch with a bar & restaurant. In the Upper Green River Valley & adjacent to the Bridger-Teton National Forest, it is the closest lodge to Square Top Mountain and Green River Lakes. At the end of Hwy 352, it is located 27 miles north of Pinedale and 79 miles SE of Jackson. wolflake@centurytel.net 307-367-2223 pg 54 SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE For full listing go to www.sublettechamber.com or PinedaleOnline.com 888-285-7282 pg 31
TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING HOSTEL A friendly lodge with private & shared bunk rooms, all have private baths & maid service. Renovated in 2011. Rates: Low season $39-$54, high season $84-$99 for private rooms & $18-$34 for shared bunks. At the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, in Teton Village, Wyoming. www.thehostel.us 307-733-3415 pg 54 JACKSON HOLE RESORT LODGING Conveniently located next to the Teton Village Market, lodging & accommodation for all seasons. Affordable condos to luxury vacation homes, for family getaways and reunions. 800-443-8613, 307-733-3990 pg 23 TETON VILLAGE A wide variety of lodging choices from high end to very affordable are available in Teton Village. Pick up the Free Village Mix brochure in Teton Village or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com or call 1-866-749-4077 pg 23
RESTAURANTS & BARS ALPINE, WYOMING BULL MOOSE RESTAURANT, SALOON & LIQUOR STORE Great steaks & smoked prime rib, we can accommodate gatherings of all sizes, private dining room available. Live music & concert series. Large dance floor. Outdoor deck has spectacular views of the mountains.307-654-7593 or 1-877-498-7993 pg 34 FLYING SADDLE STEAK & SEAFOOD HOUSE serving hand-cut Black Angus beef, our famous all-you-can-eat salad bar, Treat yourself to drinks and a delicious Western meal in an authentic Wyoming atmosphere! 877-772-4422 pg 34
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FLYING SADDLE BAR AND LOUNGE Authentic Wyoming atmosphere, complete with saddle bar stools. Lounge menu specials, and an unbeatable happy hour – 4PM to 6PM 877-772-4422 pg 34
GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING GRAND TARGHEE serves up a variety of fare at reasonable prices. Find dining at the Branding Iron Grille, quick snacks at Snorkel’s or Wild Bill’s Grille, or a full service cafeteria. The Trap Bar & Grille is home to great food, spirits and local entertainment in a casual atmosphere. pg 25
JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING COULOIR AT JH MOUNTAIN RESORT Step off the Bridger Gondola 3,000’ above the valley at 9,095’ for fine dining at the Couloir Restaurant, a truly unique dining experience. Open evenings June 29-Sept 9 (except Sat), Cocktails & appetizers on the “Deck.” Ride FREE 4:30-10p.m. 307-739-2654 pg 23 JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo: jerky, salami, smoked roast, steaks & burger. Elk: steaks, burgers & jerky. Pick up your steak for the BBQ. Gift packs smoked trout & more. WE SHIP! Free Samples south of town in Smith’s Plaza, 800-543-6328 / 7334159. www.jhbuffalomeat.com pg 5 JACKSON HOLE DINING GUIDE This 96 page magazine is a compendium of menus from the areas restaurants, with index of food types, along with maps to restaurants. Pick up a copy at your lodge or view on line at www.focusproductions.com pg 5 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT At Teton Village, over 12 restaurants offer breakfast, lunch & dinner, from gourmet burgers, pizza to distinct American cuisine. pg 23 McDONALD’S® OF JACKSON HOLE Great Tastes, Affordable Choices. Featuring McDonald's freshly prepared breakfast & regular menu favorites. Wi-Fi availability for your convenience. 5:00am-midnight daily. 1110 W. Broadway Hwy 22. pg 15 MEAD RANCH NATURAL BEEF For over 100 years, our family raised the highest quality Angus Hereford beef in the shadows of Tetons. Grass-fed beef on conservation land, grain finished, steroid free, antibiotic free, humanely processed, dry aged. Ask for it at finer Jackson Hole restaurants & grocers. 307-734-3911 PG 33 SNAKE RIVER BREWERY & RESTAURANT The Great American Beer Festival’s Small Brewery of The Year, 2000 & 2001. Serving tasty brews, burgers, delicious pizzas, pastas & sandwiches. Free WiFi. From 11:30 am to Midnight, 7 days a week. 7392337 PG 41 TETON VILLAGE has a wide array of food and drink establishments are scattered throughout. Pick up the Village Mix brochure for the listings, or on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com 866-749-4077 pg 23 TETON VILLAGE CHUCKWAGON COOKOUTS Treat yourself to a trail ride or covered wagon ride to a cookout. Western atmosphere with a Dutch oven dinner & campfire entertainment. Tues–Sat. Departures at 5:00 & 5:30pm. tetonvillagetrailrides.com. For reservations 307-733-2674 pg 23 VIRGINIAN SALOON Restaurant, saloon, liquor store, convention facilities, 750 W Broadway. 307-733-2792 or 800-262-4999. pg 53
PINEDALE, WYOMING KENDALL VALLEY LODGE A year-round mountain lodge & guest ranch with a bar & restaurant. In the Upper Green River Valley at the end of Hwy 352,the closest lodge to Square Top Mountain & Green River Lakes, 27 miles north of Pinedale & 79 miles SE of Jackson. wolflake@centurytel.net 307-367-2223 pg 54 WIND RIVER PIZZA & PASTA ”Best Pizza in Wyoming!”Dough & sauces homemade daily, organic and highest quality ingredients make for phenomenal food! Panini’s, incredible salads, pastas, & soup, salad and pizza bar. 4 Country Club Lane, 307-367-6760 pg 32
WEDDINGS, CONVENTIONS, PARTIES CODY, WYOMING PARK COUNTY TRAVEL COUNCIL Facilities for any function, from guest ranches to hotels. yellowstonecountry.org 1-800-390-2639. pg 60
GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 25
JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT Full service resort in Teton Village. Hotels, restaurants, lounges, recreation. 307-733-2292 pg 23 NOTEWORTHY MUSIC BOOKING AGENCY Thirty years in Jackson Hole, impeccable references. Provides entertainment for all types of occasions. NoteWorthyMusicAgency.com Call Mike Calabrese 307-733-5459 pg 17
PINEDALE, WYOMING HAMPTON INN & SUITES PINEDALE, Banquet rooms seating up to 70 people, business center,102 rooms. Call for information on one of our event discounts. West side of Pinedale, www.pinedalesuites.hamptoninn.com, 307-367-6700 pg 32 SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE Facilities for any function, from guest ranches to hotels. Full listing: sublettechamber.com or PinedaleOnline.com, 888-285-7282 pg 31
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BIKING
A DVENTURE G UIDE R ECREATION I NDEX
FAT TIRE TOURS Guided mountain bike adventures for all ability levels. Exclusive lift access to Snow King Mountain, the Elk Refuge, and shuttles to Shadow Mountain, and Mosquito Creek. 520 West Broadway 307-733-5335 pg 39 GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Mountain bike rentals, single & double track riding from base. A variety of downhill riding from top of chairlift. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 25 HEADWALL RECYCLE SPORTS We have high quality consignment bikes at great prices. Located in K-Mart Plaza, West Broadway, 307-734-8022. PG 41 HOBACK SPORTS Jackson's premier full service bike shop. Professional staff with the skills to rent, repair, fit, and accessorize your perfect bike. Dealer for Specialized, Trek, Santa Cruz, Electra and Rans. 520 West Broadway 307-733-5335 pg 39 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS Bike Rentals for the entire family in the Bridger Center, Teton Village. Free Teewinot lift access with full day rentals at Jackson Hole Sports. 307-7392687 pg 23 PEPI’S AT THE ALPENHOF Bike rentals, clothing & accessories for biking & hiking, at Alpenhof in Teton Village 307-733-6838. pg 19 TETON VILLAGE Several sports stores rent, sell and service bicycles. www.gotetonvillage.com or call 1-866-749-4077 pg 23
BOATING, SCENIC & WHITEWATER CODY, WYOMING
PARK COUNTY TRAVEL COUNCIL Whitewater on the Shoshone River. For full listing go to www.yellowstonecountry.org 1-800-390-2639. pg 60
JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING JACKSON HOLE KAYAK SCHOOL We teach kayaking, canoeing, rafting & SUP – on the Snake & Hoback Rivers, Slide Lake &Yellowstone Lake. Half-day to four day lessons or tours & more ways to have fun on the water than anywhere on the planet. We maintain a low 4-to-1 student to instructor ratio for all skill levels. www.jacksonholekayak.com, 945 W.Broadway, Jackson, 307-733-2471 pg 49 JENNY LAKE BOATING We offer shuttle service across Jenny Lake to access beautiful Cascade Canyon, Hidden Falls, and Inspiration Point. Hour long guided boat tours also run through the day. Or enjoy the lake on your own with a canoe or kayak rental. 307734-9227 jennylakeboating.com pg 45 O.A.R.S. Join O.A.R.S. for a kayaking tour on Yellowstone Lake in Yellowstone National Park or a rafting and kayaking adventure in Grand Teton National Park. www.oars.com/w pg 47 RENDEZVOUS RIVER SPORTS The best selection of paddling equipment in the West. Service-oriented staff specializes in providing precisely what you need for your paddling adventures. Canoes, kayaks, paddle boards & rafts from leading companies. Rentals, demos & lessons. www.jacksonholekayak.com, 945 W.Broadway, Jackson, 307-733-2471 pg 49 SANDS WILDWATER RIVER TRIPS In our 5th decade, our boatmen have a deep knowledge of every turn, rapid, & current. We've taken tens of thousands of people safely down river, including the President of the United States. Variety of scenic & whitewater trips, breakfast & overnight trips. 307-733-4410/800-358-8184 pg 45 SOLITUDE FLOAT TRIPS We offer Snake River float trips that are 100% inside Grand Teton National Park. Each trip includes information on the National Park and Jackson Hole's wildlife, history, geology, and any special interest you may want to explore. 888704-2800 solitudefloattrips.com pg 45
CLIMBING
GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING GRAND TARGHEE CLIMBING WALL Experience the fun and challenge of sport climbing at the base area. Our staff will help coach you to the top of our specially designed climbing wall. pg 25
JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN GUIDES Since 1968 Offering guided climbs and rock climbing instruction in the Tetons, Winds, Beartooths, Red Rocks, Moab & Indian Creek and City of Rocks. 800-239-7642 www.jhmg.com pg 37 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT CLIMBING WALL A variety of climbs from easy to complex. pg 23
PINEDALE, WYOMING SUBLETTE COUNTY Hiking & climbing in the Wind River & Wyoming Ranges. For info go to www.sublettechamber.com or PinedaleOnline.com 888-285-7282 pg 31
FISHING
JACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 44rd Anniversary! Exceptional guided fishing trips, hand-crafted flies, and superior service are the norm. On the Square in Jackson, 307-733-3270 & the Alpenhof in Teton Village, jackdennisoutdoors.com, 307-733-6838. pg 19 CODY & PARK COUNTY TRAVEL COUNCIL Fishing on the Shoshone River and in the Absaroka Mountains. For full listing go to www.yellowstonecountry.org 1-800-390-2639. pg 60
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THUNDER MOUNTAIN OUTFITTERS 3-6 day horse-pack, fishing, covered wagon & hunting trips into the Absaroka & Wind River Mountains. www.thundermountainoutfitters.com, 800-661-4928 or 307-455-2225 WESTBANK ANGLERS Home to Jackson Hole’s most experienced & seasoned fly fishing guides. Full & 1/2 day trips, beginner to experts. Snake, Green, New Fork & South Fork Rivers & Yellowstone National Park. 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474, www.WestBank.com pg 43 YELLOWSTONE OUTFITTERS Orvis-endorsed outfitter. 3 to 6-day 1st class horse-pack trips into Yellowstone & Thorofare Rivers. 2 & 4 hour horseback rides into Teton Wilderness. June, July, Aug & Sept. Reservations needed, yellowstoneoutfitters.com 307-5432418, 800-447-4711 pg 51 SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE Hiking, fishing, riding in the Wind River & Wyoming Ranges. For full listing go to www.sublettechamber.com or PinedaleOnline.com 888285-7282 pg 31
FRISBEE GOLF
GRAND TARGHEE RESORT 18-hole disk golf course. 1-800-TARGHEE pg 25 TETON VILLAGE 9-HOLE FRISBEE GOLF Course starts at Jackson Hole Sports in Teton Village. Course is free, maps, info and discs available in the shop. 307-739-2687 pg 23
HORSEBACK RIDING & PACK TRIPS
A-OK CORRAL Come saddle up for a great outdoor adventure! We offer one hour, two hour, half day, and full day horseback rides. Located only 15 minutes south of town. www.horsecreekranch.com 307-733-6556 pg 51 GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons, where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Go horseback riding in our panoramic backcountry. Call 1-800TARGHEE pg 25 CODY & PARK COUNTY TRAVEL COUNCIL Riding in Wapiti Valley & the Absaroka Mountains. Full listing www.yellowstonecountry.org 1-800-390-2639. pg 60 SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE Riding in the Wind River & Wyoming Ranges. Full listing – www.sublettechamber.com or PinedaleOnline.com 888-285-7282 pg 31 TETON VILLAGE TRAIL RIDES Take a horseback ride on the Historic Snake River Ranch with a real cowboy. Hourly rides. Quality mountain horses. Next to Teton Village. TetonVillageTrailrides.com, 307-733-2674 pg 51 THUNDER MOUNTAIN OUTFITTERS 3-6 day horse-pack, fishing, covered wagon & hunting trips into the Absaroka & Wind River Mountains. www.thundermountainoutfitters.com, 800-661-4928 or 307-455-2225 YELLOWSTONE OUTFITTERS 2 & 4 hour horseback rides into Teton Wilderness. Three to six-day 1st class horse-pack trips into the Yellowstone & Thorofare Rivers. Orvis-endorsed outfitter. Buffalo Valley Road. June, July, Aug & Sept. Reservations needed, yellowstoneoutfitters.com, 307-543-2418, 800-447-4711 pg 51
PARAGLIDING
JH PARAGLIDING Tandem paragliding rides from the top of the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram—the experience of a lifetime. Instruction available. Reservations & rates in Café 6311 at the Nick Wilson’s at the base of the Bridger Gondola, (307) 690-4948 pg 23
RODEO
CODY NITE RODEO Best of Buffalo Bill’s Wild West. All Rodeo Events. Nightly at 8:00, June 1– Aug. 31. Kid’s events, clowns, covered grandstand, free parking. Tickets available at the front gate & various businesses. 307-587-5155 or 800-207-0744 pg 29
SHOOTING
JACKSON HOLE SHOOTING EXPERIENCE Whether a novice shooter or experienced marksman, we provide premier shooting instruction and customized experiences year round. Focus on safe and unparalled fun. www.ShootingInJH.com, 307-690-7921 pg 53
TRAM – GONDOLA & CHAIRLIFT RIDES
GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Stay and play! Come enjoy a comfortable mountain getaway with lodging both on-mountain & in Teton Valley. See stunning Teton views and enjoy scenic chairlift rides, biking, hiking, horse-back riding, fly fishing & family dining. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 25 JACKSON HOLE AERIAL TRAM Ride 4,139’ above the valley to 10,450’ and the alpine timberline environment. Take in the 360 degree panorama, naturalist on duty. The bigger cabins can accommodate up to 60 people. 307-739-2654 pg 23 JACKSON HOLE BRIDGER GONDOLA Ride 3,000’ above the valley to 9,095’ to the Bridger Restaurant. Cocktails & appetizers on the “Deck,” June 29-Sept 10 (except Sat). Fine dining at the Couloir Restaurant June 27–Sept 9. Ride FREE 4:30-10p.m. 2-for-1 Happy Hour, 4:30-6:00 307-739-2654 pg 23 TEEWINOT CHAIRLIFT Ride the chairlift with your bike or on foot to access miles of single track for all types of riders & hiking trails into Grand Teton NP. Tickets (free with rental) & bike rentals at JH Sports in the Bridger Center, at the base of the lift. 307-7392687 pg 23
A DVENTURE G UIDE S HOPPING I NDEX
ART – GIFTS – JEWELRY J AC K SO N H O LE, WYO M I N G
DANSHELLEY JEWELERS: Wyoming’s Finest Jewelry Experience since 1976! From diamonds & elk ivory, to Teton & wildlife originals & distinctive wedding sets. This gallery transcends the ordinary! Downtown in Gaslight Alley, just off the Town Square. www.DanShelley.com 125 N. Cache. 307-733-2259 pg 3 HINES GOLDSMITHS Jackson’s premier gallery of fine jewelry designers since 1970. Elegant one-of-a-kind pieces. The original designers of the Teton pendants, charm & rings, plus a large selection of unique charms and charm wheels depicting local wildlife and sports. 80 Center Street, east side of town square. www.hinesgold.com 307-733-5599 PG 11 JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo: jerky, salami, smoked roast, steaks & burger. Elk: steaks, burgers & jerky. Pick up your steak for the BBQ. Gift packs smoked trout & more. WE SHIP! Free Samples south of town in Smith’s Plaza, 800-543-6328 / 7334159. www.jhbuffalomeat.com pg 5 JACKSON HOLE RESORT STORE The official logo store of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Your source for logo apparel & gifts on the east side of the Jackson Town Square. 307734-6045 pg 23 TETON TOYS Best selection of toys and games in the region with a huge play area for the kids! Located on the Town Square inside of Lee's Tees. 307-200-6066 www.teton-toys.com pg 14 TETON VILLAGE A variety of shops offer apparel, sports equipment, gifts, and equipment rentals. Throughout the summer season Teton Village hosts several art and antique shows. For a list pick up the Free Village Mix brochure or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com or call 1-866-749-4077 pg 23
BIKING - CAMPING - FISHING - HIKING D U BO I S, WYO M I N G
to rent, repair, fit, and accesorize your bike. Hiking shoes and accessories; including bear spray. www.hobacksports.com, 520 West Broadway 307-733-5335 pg 39 JACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 44th Anniversary! Locally owned and operated. Extensive selection of brand name products for any outdoor pursuit. Hand-crafted flies, & superior service. On the Square in Jackson. 307-733-3270. www.jackdennis.com pg 19 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS In the Bridger Center, Teton Village, is your one-stop shop for an active summer outing. Sportswear, shoes, accessories & resort wear for the entire family. Bike Rentals for the entire family. Free Teewinot lift access with full day rentals at Jackson Hole Sports. 307-739-2687 pg 23 PEPI’S AT THE ALPENHOF Bike rentals, clothing & accessories for biking & hiking, at Alpenhof in Teton Village 307-733-6838. pg 19 RENDEZVOUS RIVER SPORTS The best selection of paddling equipment in the West. Canoes, kayaks, paddle boards & rafts from leading companies. Rentals, demos & lessons. Count on RRS for all your paddling needs. We ship equipment around the world. www.jacksonholekayak.com, 945 W.Broadway, Jackson, 307-733-2471 pg 49 TETON VILLAGE Several Outdoor stores in Teton Village rent, sell and service bicycles as well as outdoor gear, clothing etc. to outfit you for any adventure. Pick up the Village Mix brochure or on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com. pg 23 WESTBANK ANGLERS Jackson Hole’s fly fishing experts & seasoned fly fishing guides. Most complete selection of flies & tackle available. Retail store on the Teton Village Road, just North of the Aspens. www.WestBank.com 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474 pg 43
G R AN D TAR G H E E, WYO M I N G GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Mountain bike rentals, single & double track riding from base. A variety of downhill riding from top of chairlift. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 25
CAMERAS, BINOCULARS & PHOTOGRAPHY J AC K SO N H O LE, WYO M I N G
HEADWALL RECYCLE SPORTS Check us out for great gently used outdoor clothing and gear. We have high quality consignment items at great prices for the whole family. Located in K mart Plaza 307-734-8022. PG 41 HOBACK SPORTS Jackson's premier full service bike and outdoor store. Professional staff
DD CAMERA CORRAL Jackson’s oldest full service camera store. Authorized dealer: Canon, Sony, Nikon, Leica, & Pentax. Binoculars, film, frames, & accessories. Friendly & knowledgeable staff. 2-hour film & digital processing. 60 So. Cache, across from Eddie Bauer. 307-733-3831 pg 2, 13 & 59 FOCUS PRODUCTIONS, INC. Publishers of Teton and Yellowstone Country Adventure Guide, Jackson Hole Skier & JH Dining Guide. Posters, postcards and commercial & editorial photography & stock photo library. 307-733-6995 www.focusproductions.com WILD BY NATURE GALLERY features the wildlife & landscape photography of Henry H. Holdsworth.T Behind the Wort Hotel, 95 West Deloney wildbynaturegallery.com 307-733-8877 pg 49
MUSIC & ENTERTAINMENT
tools & firearms, & items from the ranching & pioneer settlement era. In our new location 225 N. Cache. jacksonholehistory.org
WIND RIVER GEAR Technical clothing, footware, rain gear, casual wear, trekking poles, tents, sleeping bags, camp gear, optics, books, GPS, compasses, maps, even canine gear for your best friend. ....where outdoor adventures begin. www.windrivergearshop.com, 19 N. First St., 307-455-3468, pg 33
J AC K SO N & TETO N V I LL AG E, WYO M I N G
A DVENTURE G UIDE E NTERTAINMENT & S ERVICES I NDEX
GRAND TARGHEE MUSIC FESTIVALS Great food, vendors, games, part of our summer music festivals. Tent camp in our beautiful forest during events. It starts with the 7th Annual Targhee Fest, July 15-17. Next is the 24rd Annual Grand Targhee Bluegrass Festival, Aug 12-14. www.grandtarghee.com pg 25 GRAND TETON MUSIC FESTIVALS Each summer Grand Teton Music Festival showcases musicians from the nation’s top ensembles in seven weeks of orchestra and chamber music. Eclectic offerings of jazz, bluegrass and pop—as well as free community and family events— round out the summer schedule. July 4 – August 18, 2012. For tickets & information: (307) 733–1128 or gtmf.org pg 17 NOTEWORTHY MUSIC BOOKING AGENCY Thirty years in Jackson Hole, impeccable references. Provides entertainment for all types of occasions. NoteWorthyMusicAgency.com Call Mike Calabrese 307-733-5459 pg 17 TETON VILLAGE Throughout the summer season Teton Village hosts musical performances. For a list pick up the Free Village Mix brochure or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com. pg 23
WILDLIFE INTERPRETIVE CENTERS VISITOR CENTERS & MUSEUMS CO DY, WYO M I N G
BUFFALO BILL DAM & VISITOR CENTER Open daily May 1-Sept. 30. Free admission, enjoy views from the top of the dam. The center includes exhibits, a theater, a self-guided audio tour, bookstore, & restrooms. www.BBDVC.org Located 6 miles west of Cody on way to Yellowstone. pg 29
D U BO I S, WYO M I N G NATIONAL BIGHORN SHEEP INTERPRETIVE CENTER Enjoyable & educational experience."Sheep Mountain,"photos & hands-on exhibits draw visitors into the majestic range & habits of these magnificent animals. Gift shop. 9am-8pm daily. 307-455-3429 pg 15
J AC K SO N H O LE, WYO M I N G JACKSON HOLE MUSEUM Exhibits capture the spirit & culture of the early days of Jackson Hole. It features an outstanding collection of American Indian artifacts, fur trade era w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
P I N E DALE, WYO M I N G 77th ANNUAL GREEN RIVER RENDEZVOUS PAGEANT This hour-long re-enactment relives the early mountain man & Indian history of the area. “Meet Me on the Green!” Sunday, July 15, 1pm at the Pinedale Rodeo Grounds. 307-367-2242. pg 31 MUSEUM OF THE MOUNTAIN MAN Exhibits on fur trade, Mountain Men, Plains Indians and Western exploration. Open daily 9am-5pm through September 30. Green River Rendezvous weekend July 7-10, 2011. Toll free-877-686-6266 pg 31
W E ST YE LLOW STO N E, M O NTAN A GRIZZLY & WOLF DISCOVERY CENTER See LIVE bears & wolves. Get a glimpse into their worlds at this AZA accredited, Not-for-Profit, Wildlife Park & Educational Center. Films, programs & activities for all ages. 1-block from Yellowstone National Park. Open 365 days a year (GWDC bears DO NOT hibernate). 1-800-257-2570 pg 15
MEDICAL SERVICES & EMERGENCY CARE
ST. JOHN’S FAMILY HEALTH & URGENT CARE Walk-ins welcome. X-ray & laboratory services on-site so doctors can assess & treat your condition promptly. Open extended hours, evenings & weekends. In the Smith’s Plaza, 1415 S. Hwy 89, 307-739-8999 pg 9 ST. JOHN’S EMERGENCY DEPARTMENT Staffed 24/7 by board-certified emergency medicine physicians. St. John’s offers comprehensive hospital care including diagnostic imaging, certified Clinical Laboratory & Surgery Center services. 625 E. Broadway, 307-733-3636 pg 9
VETERINARIAN – PET BOARDING & GROOMING
SPRING CREEK ANIMAL HOSPITAL Located in beautiful Jackson Hole, we provide the highest quality veternary care along with pet boarding and day care as well as groomin services, Emergency services available 24 hours a day. www.springcreekanimalhospital.com, 307-7331606, 1035 West Broadway, Jackson. pg 16 HAPPY TAILS PET RESORT Whether it is for an extended stay or just the day, Happy Tails Pet Resort (inside Spring Creek Animal Hospital) will take excellent care of your pets while you enjoy Jackson Hole’s beautiful attractions. Professional grooming services also available by appointment. www.springcreekanimalhospital.com, 307-733-1606, 1035 West Broadway, Jackson. pg 16
2 0 1 2 T E TO N & Y E L L OW STO N E A DV E N T U R E G U I D E
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• MADISON • MORAN • FIREHOLE • GIBBON • TEEWINOT • ROOSEVELT LODGE • WASHBURN • JENNY LAKE • LEIGH LAKE • NORRIS • GALLATIN • WIND RIVER • ABSAROKA • WAPITI VALLEY
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INFORMATION
BOZEMAN, MONTANA 406-586-5421 CODY, WYOMING 307-587-2297 DUBOIS, WYOMING 307-455-2556 GARDINER, MONTANA 406-848-7971 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK 307-739-3300 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING 307-733-3316 LIVINGSTON, MONTANA 406-222-0850 MEETEESE, WYOMING 307-868-2423 PINEDALE, WYOMING 307-367-2242 POWELL, WYOMING 307-754-3494 RED LODGE, MONTANA 406-446-1718 TETON VALLEY/DRIGGS, IDAHO 208-354-2500 WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA 406-646-7701 WIND RIVER VISITORS COUNCIL 800-645-6233 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 307-344-7381 Map design by Bob Woodall Copyright 2012 – Focus Productions
DUNRAVEN • WASHBURN • SNAKE RIVER • GROS VENTRE • TOGWOTEE PASS • GRAND TETONS • OLD FAITHFUL • PAHASKA • BUFFALO BILL • SHOSHONE • NEZ PERCE • HOBACK • BRIDGER
• CODY • DUBOIS • JACKSON HOLE • RED LODGE • MAMMOTH • GARDINER • PINEDALE • WYOMING • IDAHO • MONTANA • YELLOWSTONE •
SNOW KING • HAYDEN VALLEY • MOOSE • WILSON • TETON VILLAGE • DRIGGS • VICTOR • GRAND TARGHEE • BEARTOOTH • COOKE CITY •
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w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m
T
ell them you stayed three days and had one heckuva good time in Cody, Wyoming. That you let your hair down, so to speak. You let Cody be your hub while you ventured out on five spectacular loop tours. You went hiking and fishing and took amazing pictures in Yellowstone. You rode the rapids and the horses. You stepped back in time and got to know the real Buffalo Bill at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center. You liked him. Call 1-800-393-2639 or visit yellowstonecountry.org Fly into Cody via Delta and United Airlines