Adventure Guide 2013
GRAND TETON & YELLOWSTONE COUNTRY
Mountain Towns • National Parks Vacation Excursions • Regional Map
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ACTIVITIES 6 16 17 20 24 30 31 33 35 37 38 40 42 44 45 46 47 48 50 52
101 Things To Do Northern Arapaho Experience Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Grand Targhee Resort Cody Nite Rodeo Buffalo Bill Dam Green River Rendezvous Hiking Climbing Mountain Biking Pathways Fishing Scenic & Whitewater Rafting Jenny Lake Boat Cruises Stand Up Paddle Boarding Waterway Access Sea Kayaking Horseback Riding Shooting Range
MUSEUMS 6 6 28 33
Jackson Hole Historical Society National Museum of Wildlife Art Buffalo Bill Center of the West Museum of the Mountain Man
Mountain TOWNS 18 20 24 26 27 32 34
Jackson Teton Village Grand Targhee Teton Valley Cody Pinedale Dubois
MAPS & DIRECTORIES 54 57 58
Cover: Triangle C Ranch cowboys wrangle in the stock. Contents: An avid cyclist nears the summit of Beartooth Pass, elevation 10,940 feet. Bob Woodall photos
Publishers: Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy, dba Focus Productions, Inc. (FPI) Editors: Mike Calabrese, Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall Photo Editor: Eric Rohr Art Director: Janet Melvin Advertising Sales: Nanci Montgomery, Bob Woodall, Teri Quigley, focus.ads@bresnan.net, 307-733-6995
Grand Teton / Yellowstone Adventure Guide is a free visitor’s guide published annually in May and distributed all summer at hundreds of locations throughout Jackson Hole, Cody, West Yellowstone, Pinedale, Dubois, and other regional communities, and at information centers throughout the Greater Yellowstone area. focus.info@bresnan.net
Copyright 2013 by Focus Productions, Inc., P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, WY 83001. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publishers.
Business Directory Lodging Guide Greater Yellowstone Map
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101 Things To Do
Vacation Adventures in Mountain Country
Beneath the Tetons in Grand Teton National Park, a perfect place to begin that adventure
Photographs by Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild by Nature Gallery, Bob Woodall and Wade McKoy
That’s what vacations are all about. Flip through Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide and discover an array of activities for this vast region. As you head out to the sights, stop by our first-rate visitor centers, some regional tourist attractions themselves. Local bookstores and libraries are great resources, too. Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks are home to hundreds of grizzly bears.
NATIONAL PARKS
A single entrance fee gains access to both Grand Teton National Park (GTNP) and Yellowstone National Park (YNP). The entrance stations are not information booths, though; better to visit the many well-cached information centers found in the parks themselves and gateway towns. The folks queuing behind your vehicle will appreciate your efficiency and courtesy. Especially those shuttling a boatload of restless youngsters. The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem (GYE), the largest intact ecosystem in the lower 48 states, includes a dozen mountain ranges along the Great Divide, the country’s first and largest national park and national forest, the farthest point from a road outside Alaska, and, not surprisingly, wildlife galore. Slow down and watch for wildlife—Sometimes called the American Serengeti, YNP and GTNP are home to bison, elk, deer, moose, griz-
Photos: Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild by Nature Gallery
Relax.
zly and black bear, wolves, mountain lion, wolverine, osprey, eagles, and a myriad of other small animals. Go early in the morning and keep your eyes peeled. Lamar and Hayden valleys in YNP are good bets for sighting bison, wolves, and grizzly bears. Moose frequent willowed bottomlands. Stay alert, though, even on strolls around park developments. And never approach or feed wildlife! Up your odds for great photos or experiences by taking a wildlife tour with qualified guides. Waterfalls—The 308-foot Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River is the granddaddy of the many roadside water features, but a hike can reveal the park’s more obscure, dramatic torrents. In the Tetons thousands of sightseers trek to Hidden Falls, which, for many, begins with a boat ride across Jenny Lake (pg. 45). Smell the wild roses—The mountains are famous for a profusion of wildflowers. Starting in late May and June, dazzling displays of color follow the snowline into the mountains. Some are tiny, especially the ones above timberline, so look closely. Old Faithful Inn—Of course the Old Faithful Geyser is on your must-see list, but don’t pass up a venture into the spectacular Old Faithful Inn. It’s well over 100 years old and bathed in a rich history. Ranger Programs—From Ranger Adventure Hikes to Family Campfire Evenings to Stars Over Yellowstone, these programs offer something for the whole family. The park newspaper contains all the schedules. Online http://www.nps. gov/yell/index.htm, go to Plan Your Visit. Get on the bus—Tired of having to watch the road while everyone else gets to look for bears? Then savor Yellowstone from the same perspective as early park visitors by touring in the luxury of a refurbished “Historic Yellow Bus.” Photograph the sights—Digital, film, recorder, whatever. Everybody’s a pro out here. Get a long lens, too. Again, don’t ever approach wild animals! They can easily outrun humans and simply aren’t as fond of us as we are of them. Passport to your national parks—Buy a “Passport Book” at the park visitor center. A colorful way to track your lifetime travels across America. After each visit to a park or monument (there are 390), take the passport book to the Cancellation Station and get it stamped.
Wolf at this lifelike viewing facility (pg. 14). Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center—In downtown Dubois, Wyoming, experience these stunning, full-size bighorns in breathtaking realism set amidst their natural flora and geology. Photos and hands-on exhibits transport visitors into the majestic range and habits of these powerful animals. Set aside some time for the kids to take in the center’s engaging interactive displays and information.
Libraries—Books, music, movies, lectures, computers, and insight into just about every community in mountain country. Great havens for tired travelers and curious kids, especially if the weather is a tad uncooperative. Bookstores—Some with coffee, pastries, newspapers, wi-fi—but all with books and settings that enrich readers young and old!
EDUCATION
Museums—The Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum recently opened its new facility two blocks north of the Jackson Town Square. View the settlement of Jackson Hole through artifacts, documents, photos, books and the oral histories of trappers, homesteaders, dude ranchers, and adventurers. Then there are the big boys. Cody’s Buffalo Bill Center of the West (pg. 28) “Inside the Museum” treks will inspire kids and adults alike at the Buffalo Bill site, as participants engage in a hunt for historical-object details. Jackson Hole’s National Museum of Wildlife Art exhibits over 5,000 works of art on wildlife and nature, many historic. The world-renowned museum’s grounds and building incorporate art both subtle and dramatic. Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center—Got skunked in Yellowstone, never spotting a wolf or bear? Don’t despair. Head to West Yellowstone and say hello to Sam the Grizzly or Takoda the w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
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101 Things To Do
Barrel racing at the rodeo
Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild by Nature Gallery
Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River
Teton Boulder Project climbing park in Jackson
CULTURE
Music festivals—A score of music events await mountain country travelers, including the 26th Annual Yellowstone Jazz Festival, with its ensemble performances at various locations in Cody and Powell; the world-class Grand Teton Music Festival in Jackson Hole; and Grand Targhee’s Bluegrass and Targhee Fest and music camps. Jackson’s Center for the Arts also hosts a number of summer music and dance concerts, stage presentations, and art shows. Teton Village continues its popular free Concert on the Commons performance series, and in Victor, Idaho, free concerts in the park bring weekly gatherings to its Music on Main events. Art fairs—There’s no better way to celebrate nature’s art-inspiring elements than at one of the many artists’ fairs highlighting summer weekends throughout mountain country. Watch artisans at work and wander through festive outdoor galleries.
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Sandhill crane
Farmers Market
Antique shows—Snap up a bargain, maybe even a piece of history, at one of the many antique road shows hosted in our mountain towns. Classic car shows— Americans love their cars, and none more so than the auto buffs who stage the Jackson Hole Rendezvous from June 79 on the main street lawn of the Virginian Hotel. Sponsored by the Eastern Idaho Early Iron Organization, the event dazzles young and old with restored gems from the golden age of the U.S. auto industry. Want more than just window-shopping? Then view or bid on vintage cars displayed at the Silver Collector Car Show and Auction, July 7-8 in Teton Village. Fall Arts Festival—Jackson’s runs through early fall, highlighted by ranch tours, culinary events, and endless activities. On the Targhee side, folks gather at the Annual Spuds and Suds celebration of fall. Games, events for kids of all ages, live music and, because it’s in Idaho, an all-
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you-can-eat potato bar and beer garden hosted by local breweries. Gallery walks—Stroll through the many art galleries in mountain towns. It doesn’t cost to look! Join the organized “walks,” often complete with free food! Walk around the town—Boardwalks and wide-open shop-lined streets from the old West are central to every gateway town in Teton / Yellowstone country. Jackson’s town square is set off by elk-antler archways and ringed by boardwalks and historic buildings. Unique shops, eateries, and galleries characterize these mountain towns. Go shopping—Therapeutic, patriotic, and economically stimulating, shopping in mountain country is a gas. From carved bears to elk antler items to unique clothing to everyday dining delights, regional enterprises know how to treat the customer right. Drive-in theaters—Not many of these left in
The 308-foot Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River is the granddaddy of the many roadside water features, but a hike can reveal the park’s more obscure, dramatic torrents.
Summer picnic treats
Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild by Nature Gallery
Fine-spotted Snake River cutthroat trout
Bull moose
the world, but one of the more famous, the Spud Drive-in Theatre, just south of Driggs, Idaho, is a trip back in time. Look for the giant spud on the old red flatbed truck, just off the highway between Victor and Driggs, Idaho. Imax—The IMAX theater in West Yellowstone shows special releases on the parks. Film festivals—Fall film festivals include the Jackson Hole Wildlife Film Festival Sept 23-27, Teton Theater Frank’s Fest, the Jackson Hole Film Institute’s offerings, and the August Spud Fest, a real spectacle at the Spud Drive-in. Teton Gravity Research, one of the country’s fastest-growing action-sports brands always has something cooking, too. Live theater—Family fun right in the heart of towns like Jackson Hole, West Yellowstone, and Cody, some even hosting dinner theater for eats and antics. Go out to eat—An army runs on its stomach, and an army of tourists has countless dining opportunities not available in many areas. Take advantage of mountain country’s diverse gustatory offerings. Pick up a Jackson Hole Dining Guide, online at jhdiningguide.com Fire department chicken fries and barbecues—Throughout summer volunteer fire departments throw fundraising chicken-fries and BBQs. All visitors are welcome. A great way to meet locals and experience a sweet slice
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Dude ranch
101 Things To Do
Dude ranches—The quintessential Western vacation. From rustic to polished, these weeklong emersions into the lore of the Old West are the perfect family getaway.
WATER, WATER, EVERYWHERE
Go fish—Mountain country holds some of the best fishing streams and lakes in the lower 48 states. The area abounds with angling shops and guide services. Hire a guide or just get out and explore (pg. 42). Whitewater rafting—The Snake, Yellowstone, and Shoshone rivers sport miles of whitewater action. Lots of commercial services are available, or rent a raft and go get wet (pg. 44). Scenic raft trips—Not into getting wet? Then how about a Black bear cub sublime sunrise voyage on the Snake River in front of the Grand Tetons? Watch a bald eagle soar or dive for breakfast. (pg. 44). Motorboat cruises—Board a scenic motorboat and cruise Jenny Lake to the base of the Tetons. An hour spent as a passenger on a comfortable lake craft reveals a wealth of insight into regional history, geology, plants, and animals. Or ride the shuttle boat across the lake and hike to nearby Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point in Cascade Canyon. (pg. 45) Canoeing & sea kayaking—Want to be a little more intimate with the water? The possibilities are almost endless. Rent a canoe or kayak on Jenny Lake and take the family for a paddle on crystalclear mountain waters at the base of the Tetons. (pg. 45) Rent boats in the town of Jackson to explore our many lakes and streams. (pg. 47) Whitewater kayaking—To get really personal with the river, there’s nothing like being in a kayak, splashing through rapids or surfing a wave for as long as you can hold on. Stand Up Paddle Boards (SUP)—Feel like Hawaiian royalty standing on a long surfboard propelling yourself along the river currents. Paddling while standing affords a bird’s-eye view into the clear waters and stunning vistas. Rent one and find out why SUP is the fastest growing water sport in the world. (pg. 46) Water slide and pool—Rained out or just want to get some exercise? Then head to the J.H. Rec. Center, complete with lap pool, kids’ pool, Jacuzzi, steam room, and three-story water slide. w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
Take the entire family. Supervised, adult-led dayadventure programs for kids available, too. Ask about public swimming pools in all mountain country towns. Swim alfresco—You’ll find a number of unique options for outdoor swimming around mountain country. In YNP, check out the Firehole River near Madison Junction or the Boiling River near Gardiner, where hot springs flow into the river (swimming in hot springs themselves is prohibited and dangerous). In GTNP, String Lake is an outstanding swimming hole, safe for the whole family. If you want it hot and in a commercial swimming pool, visit Granite Hot Springs, south of Jackson. Sailing—Fremont Lake outside Pinedale, Jackson Lake in GTNP, and Yellowstone Lake all have sailboats in the docks and on the water. Local windsurfers show up when the waves reach whitecap status. Best dam views—Completed in 1910, the Buffalo Bill Dam near Cody is the most impressive one this side of the Hoover Dam. Stroll across the dam and peer 325 feet into the canyon bottom. In GTNP, drive over Jackson Lake Dam, gaze across the lake at the Tetons and marvel at the thundering waters churning out of the spillways. Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild by Nature Gallery
of American pie. Dance to the music—Don’t just dance to the music, dance to live music. Many bars and taverns offer nightly live music. Get out and kick up your heels! Learn to Western Swing: free lessons at 7:30 on Thursday nights at Jackson’s Cowboy Bar. Learn to Square Dance: another Western tradition, master the dosido and allemande left on Tuesday nights at the Rustic Pine Tavern in Dubois, Wyoming. Families welcome. Watch for info in all our western towns.
GET A LIFT
Hop on the Bus—The Jackson Hole START Bus system makes getting around easy. In Jackson ride all over town for free. Buses are on a halfhour schedule. Hourly departures to Teton Village. Three bucks for adults, half price for seniors and students through 12th grade. Buses also run south to Star Valley and west to Teton Valley. Visit startbus.com for a complete fee/time schedule and maps. Tram—Climb 4,139 feet above the valley floor aboard the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram. At the summit of Rendezvous Mountain, a lofty 10,450 feet, tram passengers step out into the Alpine zone, right at the tree-line’s edge. Take in a 360-degree panorama of the Jackson Hole valley and nearby and distant mountain features. Ride the tram, hike the trails or “fly” (pg. 20) back to the valley floor. Tandem paragliding—From the top of the tram, sprout wings on a 20-minute tandem flight with Jackson Hole Paragliding. Certified pilots with hundreds of hours flying in the Tetons are eager to introduce first-timers to the exhilarating 2 0 1 3 T E TO N & Y E L L OW STO N E A DV E N T U R E G U I D E
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101 Things To Do Sometimes called the American Serengeti, YNP and GTNP are home to bison, elk, deer, moose, grizzly and black bear, wolves, mountain lion, wolverine, osprey, eagles, and a myriad of other small animals.
Snow King Alpine Slide Old Faithful Inn and its equally faithful geyser
Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild by Nature Gallery
Hot air balloon
Robert Randolf and the Family Band performing at the free Jackson Hole Live concert series.
experience of tandem paragliding (pg. 20). Chairlifts—Not only do these lifts get you up above it all for an impressive view of the scenery, but they also provide quick backcountry access for hikers and mountain bikers. Both Snow King (pg. 41) and Grand Targhee (pg. 24) mountain resorts offer rides. Dine on a mountainside—Ride the Bridger Gondola at Teton Village up to the Couloir Restaurant for a peak dining experience 2,730 feet above the valley. Or head up for afternoon cocktails on the Deck and marvel at a high-altitude Jackson Hole sunset. The ride is free (pg. 20). Balloon rides—Greet the morning by lofting into crisp mountain air under a colorful hot-air balloon (pg. 41). Bungee-trampolining—Give your youngster the thrill of a trampoline with the lift and spring of bungee cords (pg. 20).
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Alpine slide—Take the chairlift up, then board a sled for a journey down a mountain slide that curves and dips through the forest at Snow King (pg. 41). Glider rides—Mountains create updrafts, and that means good gliding. Check the Driggs, Idaho, airport for information on glider rides.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Hiking—An almost endless array of trails radiate into the mountains. The only limits are your legs and longing. The views? You supply the adjectives (pg. 35). Camping—The great outdoors was made for camping. Get away from the motor home and rough it! Cook out on an open fire and sleep under the stars. Nothing like it under the sun, of course. Climb the Grand—Often listed in the 100 things to do in your life, and for a good reason! Despite a peak 7,000 feet above the valley, top-
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Mother goose with goslings
ping the Grand is an attainable goal for anyone in good physical condition and among the right companions. Some of the world’s best guides and instructors live here (pg. 37). Mountain biking—Our trail systems are among the finest in the country (pg. 38). Pathways—Walk, ride a bike, rollerblade. Jackson Hole’s extensive pathway system rewards all users with a peaceful state of mind (pg. 40). Shooting—Certified pistol- and rifle-use instruction, skeet and trap shooting with shotguns, all at the Jackson Hole Gun Club site south of the town of Jackson. A wide selection of guns, covered shooting area, two separate pistol bays, and a classroom (pg. 52).
ATHLETIC EVENTS
Enter a marathon—If you’re a vacationing runner, make a race part of the fun. The third annual Jackson Hole Marathon is slated for September 22.
Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild by Nature Gallery
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River
American bison
Chuckwagon cowboy cookout
The great outdoors was made for camping. Cook out on an open fire and sleep under the stars. Nothing like it under the sun, of course.
The event has relay and half-marathon divisions, too. Learn about this “cup-free” competition online at jacksonholemarathon.com. Three major hill-climb footraces are held in during summer. The Run To The Summit Series includes the Snow King Hill Climb in Jackson, the Rendezvous Mountain Hill Climb at Teton Village on August 24, and in the Targhee region, the Targhee Hill Climb Wrun For Wray on June 29. The Grand Teton Relay, slated for August 1617, is a 12- or 6-person running relay covering 180 miles from Ashton, Idaho, to Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Visit www.grandteton.relay.com. Run a 24-hour relay—In the Cache-Teton Relay, August 9-10, 2013, 12-person teams start in Logan, Utah, pad 200 miles through four national forests along the historic Oregon Trail and the shoreline of Blackfoot Reservoir, then through Star Valley and finally along the Snake River to fin-
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ish at the foot of the Tetons (www.epicrelays.com). Many other regional towns sponsor marathons, half-marathons, and fun runs as part of holiday events and fairs. Posters and papers should catch your eye. Mountain bike and running races—No surprise to find plenty of mountain bike and running events in the Rockies. Teton Village alone hosts four competitions, including the 12-hour downhill Red Bull Final Descent and the ultimate hill climb up 4,139 vertical feet to the top of Rendezvous Mountain. The Victor/Driggs biking community also hosts a variety of mountain bike fests to keep the quiet side of the Tetons buzzing: Pierre’s Hole 50/100 Endurance Mountain Bike Race, August 3, 2013; Wydaho Mountain Bike Festival July 27-29; and the Targhee Enduro Mountain Bike Race, a huge downhill race series in September. Bikers and runners in Jackson line up to tackle
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101 Things To Do Photo courtesy Teton Raptor Center
You are in the West after all, so what better way to experience it than astride a horse! Head to the hills for an hour, a day, or even a week.
Teton Raptor Center
Dutch oven cooking
Jake Clark’s Mule Days
American bison ford Yellowstone River
the challenging course at the annual Cache-toGame-Creek race. And the ever-popular annual Snow King Hill Climb starts on the Town Square, as does the wildly successful September fundraiser, Old Bill’s. In Wilson, a new race on the Arrow, Phillips Ridge, and Phillips Canyon trails gives bikers both 50- and 100-mile options, while runners attack the 50-mile course. For local info check in with bike shops and resorts throughout mountain country. Road bike races—One of the few – and possibly the best – is the LOTOJA (Logan to Jackson). Slated for September 7, 2013, this 206-mile contest, a European-style road classic competition, attracts nearly 1,000 cyclists (www.lotojaclassic.com). Kayak events—Top-tier paddlers test their whitewater skills on the Hoback, Snake, and Greys rivers while roadside spectators enjoy the thrills of competition at the Wyoming Whitewater
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A mountain town parade
Championships in early summer. Additional racing includes canoeing, stand-up paddle boarding (SUP), and rafting. A film festival and party round out the festivities. Around mid-June enjoy a free boating demo day on historic Slide Lake at the Intermountain Paddle Sports Symposium. Bring the family to the Atherton Creek boat ramp, where you can try kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, canoes, and sailing kayaks. Instruction, paddling clinics, a barbeque, and an SUP race round out the family fun, all amid the rugged Gros Ventre Mountain range.
TEE TIME
Mini golf—Everyone can enjoy this activity, without breaking the bank, either! Cody, West Yellowstone, Jackson Hole, and more tucked away at motels all over mountain country. Frisbee golf—What a combo! Can you imagine it? At both JHMR and Grand Targhee (pg. 20, 24). Real golf—More golf courses than you can
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shake a club at! Jackson Hole sports four, Teton Valley is home to a couple, and the loop from Cody to West Yellowstone to Ashton, Idaho, to Jackson to Dubois, Wyoming, must hold a dozen more. Naturally, the prices range from family to fortune.
GET WESTERN
Mountain man rendezvous—The 75th Annual Green River Rendezvous, July 11-14, 2013, in Pinedale, Wyoming, is a pageant that educates visitors about the history of fur-trade era events. Rendezvous also take place throughout the summer in Jackson, Alpine, and West Yellowstone and are open to the public. Great places to find unique items. Or outfit yourself and join in the fun! Indian Pow-wows—This is Indian country, too, and perfect for a traditional Pow-wow. The most prominent one is the Annual Plains Indian Museum Pow-wow, June 15-16, 2013, in Cody, Wyoming. Indian dancers try to catch the judges’
Henry H. Holdsworth / Wild by Nature Gallery
eyes with personal style, footwork falling on the beat of the music, and beautifully crafted dance attire (pg. 27). Chuckwagon dinners and shows—Ranging from dinner under the Tetons at Dornan’s to polished performances showcasing cowboy musicians and theater in most of our mountain towns. In Teton Village mount a gentle horse or board a covered wagon to a hearty Dutch oven dinner complete with campfire entertainment. Horseback trail rides and pack trips—You are in the West after all, so what better way to experience it than astride a horse! Head to the hills for an hour, a day, or even a week (pg. 50). Stagecoach rides—In Jackson Hole, a short stagecoach ride around downtown Jackson will light up the faces of young and old. From Roosevelt Lodge in YNP, stagecoaches, replicas of those used in early park days, course through four miles of sagebrush and flower-embroidered flats. Cody Trolley Tours—A 60-minute, 22-mile tour in a comfortable red & green trolley. Narrators recount the story of world-famous William F.
WILD by NATURE Saw-whet owls
“Buffalo Bill” Cody while highlighting historical sites, scenic vistas, geology, wildlife, and Old- and New-West attractions. Dude ranches—The quintessential Western vacation. From rustic to polished, these weeklong emersions into the lore of the Old West are the perfect family getaway. Rodeo—The Old West rides into arenas nightly in Cody and several times a week in Jackson and West Yellowstone. Rodeos, like fireworks and parades, are also integral to July 4th celebrations throughout the West (pg. 30). Shootout—The legendary Old West shootout is re-enacted nightly on the streets of Jackson and Cody. For real-action shooting, though, check out Cody’s Wild West Shootout competition in June. No blanks at this event. Visit a ghost town—Tour the abandoned goldmining town of Kirwin in the mountains southwest of Meeteetse. Four-wheel drive recommended. Cody’s Old Trail Town—One-of-a-kind buildings from the past, including the famous hideout used by Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. Colorful characters might still haunt nearby gravesites, too. Mule Days—Don’t be stubborn! Check out Jake Clark’s Mule Days in Ralston, near Cody, June 12-16, 2013. Not just a pack “ani-mule,” the venerable saddle mule is front and center in its own parade, rodeo, and auction, all highlighting the abilities of a true Western character. w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
G A L L E R Y
Wildlife & Landscape Photographs by Henry H. Holdsworth Limited Edition Photographs, Books, Note Cards 95 W. Deloney • Behind the Wort Hotel • Box 2673 • Jackson, WY 83001 • 733-8877 www.wildbynaturegallery.com
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L
ocated in the heart of Wyoming, the Wind River Hotel and Casino is, appropriately, owned and operated by the Northern Arapaho Tribe. The Wind River Mountain Range provides a stunning backdrop for visitors to experience the rich cultural history of the Northern Arapaho. The newly built Wind River Hotel also houses the Northern Arapaho Experience Cultural Room, where hotel guests, visitors, and travelers can journey deep into the lore of the tribe through storytelling, paintings, artifacts, and photos. A path made all the more revealing by the voices of friendly Northern Arapaho elders. As guides to the past, the elders share an intimate account of the tribe’s unique path in history. Storytelling, almost a forgotten art today, is central to Arapaho culture, which still nurtures kindness, consideration, and humility among its young. During the summer months of June, July, and August the dance element of the Northern Arapaho Experience takes on new life. Under Wyoming’s big blue skies highlighting the Wind River itself, local dancers perform every Tuesday free of charge at 6 p.m. A must-see event, this visual feast for
the eyes affords visitors a taste of Pow-wow dancing style and colorful, traditional garb. The Northern Arapaho Experience features dancers of all different ages and style and has gained a national following noted in both print and television stories. Starting June 4, the Northern Arapaho Experience will also be home to a summer art series that will showcase the highly regarded artwork of local Arapaho artists. The Northern Arapaho Art Series proudly displays and promotes the unique artistic flair of many notable up-and-coming talents. The Wind River Hotel and Casino is the largest gaming facility in Wyoming and home to over 700 Vegas-style slot machines and 10 table games. The 90room hotel features two 24-hour restaurants, an espresso bar, and two gift shops. Only a few scenic hours away from Yellowstone National Park, the Wind River Hotel and Casino might be the perfect place to start that Wyoming vacation. —GT&Y Adventure Guide
101 Things To Do
Enjoy traditional Native American dancing Tuesday nights at no charge.
SPECIAL EVENTS
Elk antler auction—Jackson’s is the King of the Heap, held every year in late May. A downhome Western-town gathering and kickoff to spring in mountain country. Farmers Markets—No reason to strike out for the mega market’s comestibles. Locavores can get their fresh-food fix right on the beaten path. Watch for popular farmers markets throughout the region. Fourth of July—Music, rodeos, community picnics, parades, foot races, and of course fireworks. What more can we say! Local papers post complete lists of events. County fairs—These are true community events out here in the West. Horses, cows, pigs, sheep, and the best-grown produce of locals, as well as fiddle contests, magic shows, even carnival rides and stands complete with corn dogs and cotton candy.
SCENIC DRIVES
Teton Park Inner Loop—This idyllic roadway takes you as close to the mountains as you can get in a vehicle. For the best glimpses of wildlife, come early, stay late. Catch the alpenglow at sunrise or the shadows lengthening at sunset. Beartooth Pass—Truly one of the most spectacular, not-to-be-missed drives in America. Be-
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Courtesy Northern Arapaho Experience
Northern Arapaho Experience
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tween Red Lodge, Montana, and the Northeast Entrance of YNP, the highway switchbacks up the mountainside to above timberline and a 10,940foot summit. Along the way, cold mountain streams, crashing waterfalls, and deep-blue alpine lakes dot the landscape, while jagged granite peaks jut into the sky. The excursion passes from sub-alpine to alpine environments. Give yourself plenty of time, though; a parade of continuous vistas beckon – and a snowball fight in July is traditional! Chief Joseph Scenic Highway—Between Cody and the Northeast Entrance of YNP, another zigzagging traverse heads over Dead Indian Hill and into Sunlight Basin. Its isolation and incredible vistas make this wide but infrequently used highway a pleasure to travel along. From the summit you can look deep into both the mountains and the Clarks Fork River Canyon. Wapiti Valley—Between the East Entrance of YNP and Cody, this spectacular valley is a treat for the eyes. The many strange, eroded rock formations look like, well, whatever your imagination can come up with. Kids excel at this kind of travel creativity. Keep an eye out for the Cookie Monster somewhere up there. Elkhart Park—From Pinedale, the Fremont Lake Road heads north out of town, crosses a gla-
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cial moraine, and then climbs past 10-mile-long Fremont Lake and on to Elkhart Park. From this popular trailhead, views are afforded well into the Wind River Mountains and down 2,000 feet to Fremont Lake itself. Trail Lake Road—A short bit east of Dubois, Trail Lake Road heads south into the Wind River Mountains and past three jewel-like lakes. Look for petroglyphs on the large boulders along the way. At the end of the road, hike 3 miles to stunning Lake Louise. Ashton to Victor, Idaho—This delightful rural byway undulates over the rolling hills of eastern Idaho farmlands, the ever-present Teton Range looming magnificently in the distance. Best time to enjoy it is in late afternoon, heading toward the mountains. Look Up at the Stars Now that night has fallen, don’t just hit the sack. Head outside and cast those eyes skyward! If you’re a city dweller, you really shouldn’t miss this experience. The Milky Way sweeps across the clear western heavens in a blaze of glittering light and confirms the existence of real stars and astronomical delights. — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide
Bob Woodall
Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center
Full-size bighorns – set amidst their natural flora and geology – lend a breathtaking realism to the center’s displays.
F
ew mammals can match the sure-footedness of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep. Powerful and nimble, even at 250 to 300 pounds, they tread crags and rocky trails like no other creatures on earth. But the survival of these magnificent animals is threatened all over the West. Fortunately, their beauty and tenuous existence have been showcased graphically and elegantly in the National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center, right in downtown Dubois, Wyoming. Stunning, full-size bighorns – set amidst their natural flora and geology – lend a breathtaking realism to the center’s displays. Photos and hands-on exhibits draw visitors into the majestic range and habits of these magnificent animals. Other dioramas showcase grizzly bears, marmots, wolves, mountain lions, and a host of smaller intriguing wildlife. Set aside some time for the kids to take in the center’s engaging interactive displays and information. Celebrating it 20th year, the center now provides young (or not-so young) tech-savvy naturalists a way to lead the grownups around. A very cool printable PDF self-guided tour can be accessed from the center’s website. Or the young guide can direct the vehicle and crew along a colorful seven-mile stretch of habitat just outside of town. Simply point that mobile device to www.bighorn.org. Dubois, of course, hosts this interpretive center for good reason: nearby Whiskey Mountain is home to the largest wintering herd of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep in North America. And, during winter, the staff offers fully guided tours into the snowy habitat. The center’s website also accesses a biologist’s journal describing the sheep’s slow recovery from the population “crash” of 1990. Located right on the main street of Dubois (which just happens to be Wyoming Highway 287/26), the National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center is open daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. during the summer. Admission fees are $2.50 for adults, 75¢ for children, or $6 for families. For more information, call toll free (888) 209-2795, go on-line at www.bighorn.org, or e-mail the center at info@bighorn.org. — Mike Calabrese
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Commitment to Wild Sheep since 1993 Summer Hours: 9 a.m. — 6 p.m. 907 W. Ramshorn Street Dubois, Wyoming 307-455-3429 www.bighorn.org email : info@bighorn.org
Fast, Affordable and On Your Way. McDonald’s® of Jackson Hole
Open & Serving your favorites 5:00am - Midnight Daily
Free Wi-Fi 1110 W. Broadway, Jackson, WY • 1 mile west of Town Square
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WYOMING
Photos: Bob Woodall; Sign photo courtesy Jackson Hole Historical Society
JACKSON
This bird’s-eye view of Jackson shows the small town cradled between Snow King mountain (top) and the National Elk Refuge (bottom).
M
By Joseph Piccoli
ore than a few old-timers say the real Jackson Hole disappeared along with the sign.
A trail ride on Snow King Mountain
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only – to small bands of Indians. The first nonNatives to see the valley were a handful of fur trappers and even they did not reside yearround. Erected atop Teton Pass in the 1930s, it Later, trappers and Indians were replaced showed the figure of a cowboy in big chaps by homesteaders. These hardy folks manand a bigger hat pointing toward the valley aged to endure year-round residency while below. It read raising beef cattle “Howdy Stranger. and cultivating Yonder is Jackson what few crops Hole, the Last of could mature durthe Old West.” The ing a growing seacowboy is said to son that – in a have been modeled really good year – after a Jackson might be as long as mayor of the era, three months. Harry Clissold, but It was a tough pretty much everylife and it truly was body was a cowa slice of the Old boy back then. West. But Jackson Times sure have Hole’s future changed. There are (“hole” was trapper a few real cowboys slang for a mounleft, of course. tain valley) was deLive theater at the Jackson Hole Playhouse (Check out the termined when the twice-weekly rodeo homesteaders realif you don’t believe me.) But Jackson Hole ized that dudes (homesteader slang for sumhas become a place where an “old-timer” is mer tourists) were “easier to keep than cattle.” anyone who has lived in the valley longer than There are still dude ranches in the valley, you. The sign is back, though, recreated by and you can still saddle up a horse and ride local history buff Bob Rudd and the Rotary off into the sunset while staying at one. But Club in the year 2000. today’s dudes have choices that would beJackson’s real old-timers, however, were fuddle those of yore: will it be a horseback Native Americans. Scarcely 150 years ago, ride today, or tennis? Perhaps a round of golf, Jackson Hole was home – in summer and fall or a symphony concert?
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“old-timer”) says she likes them because they give her a great reason not to wear high heels. Jackson, you see, retains enough Western heritage so that you’ll spot folks wearing blue jeans at even the most formal events. Some of what keeps Jackson a real Western town is simply the stuff of small towns everywhere. Quite awhile back the U.S. Postal Service tried to introduce home delivery of mail to Jackson. Residents objected because they did not want to lose the contact with friends and neighbors afforded by regular excursions to pick up their mail. Shop for local produce at the Farmers Market on Jackson’s The Postal Service dropped its plans for Town Square every Saturday. home delivery of the mail and even after opening a large post office in west Jackson a few years later, it bowed to public pressure and has Take the Shootout for example. A bunch of loJackson Hole is now also a year-round vacakept the “old” downtown post office open. tion destination. The town of Jackson is a gate- cals don their big chaps and bigger hats every Probably the most important thing about Jackway to Yellowstone and Grand Teton national night at 6 p.m. (except Sunday) from Memorial son’s heritage, and the thing that has remained parks, to national forests, and to wilderness areas. Day to Labor Day, head down to the Town Square, unchanged, is its location. Sure, this is Wyoming, and pretend to shoot each Visitors hike, bike, fish, the state that issues automobile license plates other. In the best spaghetti climb mountains, marvel featuring a picture of a cowboy on a bucking Western tradition there’s a at the geysers of Yellowbronco. But Jackson is also surrounded by some bit of corny melodrama stone, and gape at the of the most spectacular and unspoiled terrain in performed to set the stunning Teton mountains. the West. scene, then guns blaze They ski (at one of There are millions of acres here (in wilderness and the street is suddenly three area ski resorts or in areas and the backcountry of Yellowstone and strewn with bodies. the backcountry) and they Grand Teton parks) where travel on foot or by After a moment, the browse through art galhorseback is the only travel possible. bodies stir, then stand and leries and museums by For many people, the real West is found in such dust themselves off. The the dozen. places: where the impact of humans is least evitourists think it’s great and So while the wide-open dent. In Jackson Hole, those places can be found you might think the event spaces of Old Jackson in literally every direction. From the Jackson Town is pure Chamber of ComHole really were populated Square, the hub of urban life in the valley, you can merce boosterism. But for by cowboys and bad guys, reach a roadless wilderness in less time than it by schoolmarms and The 1930s wooden sign on Teton Pass was the locals who produce takes a person to reach a shopping mall in most replicated and reset in 2000. the show it is a labor of shady ladies, clearly much American cities. love. Many have performed every summer for of the Old has packed up and pulled out of town. So as glitzy as Jackson may seem to some, Not all of it is gone, however, although a hand- years and turn out in historically accurate cosyou’ll never be far from its roots – nor from the real tumes that are perhaps too valuable to be worn ful of what’s left is simply a show put on to enterWest. tain some of the 30,000 or so visitors who crowd while rolling around on the street. Joseph Piccoli is a writer and editor living in Another example is the wooden sidewalks in the streets of downtown Jackson on an average Jackson Hole. the downtown area. One woman I know (she’s an summer day.
From the Jackson Town Square, the hub of urban life in the valley, you can reach a roadless wilderness in less time than it takes a person to reach a shopping mall in most American cities.
An extraordinary array of fashionable clothing for women, fabulous concho belts, famous Anna Konya skirts, retro styles, unique leather vests & jackets, great tapestry blanket jackets & vests.
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Best Toy Store in the World! Summer hours: 9-10
Winter hours: 9-8
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WYOMING
Bob Woodall
TETON VILLAGE
Step off the tram onto Rendezvous Mountain summit, where hiking trails lead in many directions, each a feast for the senses.
eton Village is a destination unto itself, T complete with lodging and dining that ranges from four-star luxury to economy fare and a wide array of resort activities available as turnkey adventures or do-ityourself excursions. Henry Holdsworth, Wild By Nature
Tucked up against a 4,100-foot-tall mountain bedecked with forests, flowers, cliffs and crags, laced with trams and gondolas, bordering Grand Teton National Park – well, you get the picture.
The Village “Come for the day, stay for the night!” the slogan entices, hinting at Teton Village’s endless appeal. Fact is, “The Village” has finally come into its own as a quaint mountain hamlet. The Village Commons brings it all together. The stone plaza – surrounded by lush lawns, manicured gardens, and a babbling brook – invites travelers to sit down and soak everything up. In the sun or in the shade, tables and chairs await. A metal fire-pit, itself a work of art, warms those who sit on its benches. A large kid’s play structure stays busy, of course. And it’s just a step away from the biggest treat of all – the pop-up fountain. This beguiling water feature’s unpredictable spurts often lure kids and playful adults into a novel game of catch. Sidewalks head off in every direction, leading to a variety of dining, shopping, lodging, and spa options. Follow these pathways to find the perfect ending to a perfect day in the mountains. Enjoy a glass of wine and sushi on the patio of the Four Seasons, or go casual at the famous Mangy Moose with a buffalo burger and a beer. Mangi authentic Italian in the refined ambiance
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Picas: cute, curious, shy, and endangered.
of Osteria. At the Alpenhof, partake of traditional Austrian cuisine in the dining room, followed up with a Spaten on the deck overlooking the tram. Wander into Masa Sushi for top-rate Asian fare, or opt for hip lodge-style dining, bar, and deck at The Spur. Game Fish treats travelers to fine dining in elegance and style, while the RMO surprises with unique lunch and breakfast items. The baked goods of the Village Café round out the tour. Full yet? The Teton Village retail community comprises many locally owned specialty shops. Rodeo, a women’s clothing boutique, will no doubt please the ladies, while the guys may linger at Wool and Whiskey’s fully stocked whiskey bar and men’s mercantile. Then visit the local-artisan boutique MADE and find out why it’s achieved such a cult following.
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One essential mountain-town specialty, outdoor apparel, boasts a wide range of top purveyors – TVS, Wilderness, Jackson Hole Sports, Jackson Treehouse, and Pepi Stiegler Sports – each with it’s own unique personality in store design and wears. Before heading out to the day’s activities, pick up those last-minute items at the new Jackson Hole General Store next to the Aerial Tram, offering grab-and-go snacks, beer, souvenirs, and a full-service coffee bar and ice cream counter. Or dash in and out of the Village Bottle Shop and Gas Station for those lastminute items.
Aerial Tram The same Jackson Hole Aerial Tram that whisks skiers and snowboarders up 4,139 vertical feet during ski season also conveys summer vacationers on a round-trip journey into the high alpine landscape of flowers and granite. The eye-popping journey might include spotting a moose, deer, or even the occasional black bear foraging on the mountainside. The sleek cabins, which carry 100 passengers in ski season, easily accommodate 60 people in the summer, standing and seated. An entire bus tour can board the tram all at once. At the summit, take in the unrivaled 360-degree views of Jackson Hole, the Snake River, and Grand Teton National Park. High-altitude weather can change quickly, from sunshine to thunderstorms and vice versa, so pack a jacket, water, and sunscreen, even for a short walk.
Hiking Trails lead from the top of the tram into the Cody Peak Basin and Grand Teton National Park. The Mountain Road courses seven miles
down to Teton Village (hint: a local favorite is to hike this trail from the village below to the mountaintop and then ride the tram back down for free). A spectacular new trail links the summit of Rendezvous Mountain with the top of the Bridger Gondola, dropping 1,350 vertical feet in just under two
The Village Commons brings it all together. The stone plaza – surrounded by lush lawns, manicured gardens, and a babbling brook – invites travelers to sit down and soak it up. miles. Hike from the top of the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram through the spectacular Tensleep Bowl, traverse The Cirque, and descend the Headwall. Then step into Headwall Pizza at the Bridger Gondola, also housing The Couloir Restaurant and The Deck. Quiet and civilized, this hike.
Tandem Paragliding Flights Descend the mountain’s heights on a 20minute tandem flight with Jackson Hole Paragliding. Certified pilots who’ve logged hundreds of hours flying in the Tetons are eager to introduce first-timers to the unique experience of tandem paragliding.
Free live music weekly in Teton Village brings out dancers, picnickers, and just plain old music lovers.
Trail Rides Saddle up and experience a trail ride at the corrals on the east side of the village. Head out on hourly trail rides astride a quality mountain horse in the company of a real cowboy wrangler.
Photos from top: Wade McKoy; courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (2)
Mountain Biking The Jackson Hole Bike Park is family friendly, and any novice biker can enjoy it. Board Teewinot chairlift, your mountain bike resting on its own retrofitted chair for the ascent. Then, from the top, cruise down one of six different trails with difficulty ratings similar to those of ski trails. Wide, smooth “green” trails cater to the largest number of riders, who might work their way up in difficulty to the banked turns of “blue” trails. “Dark blue” and “black” trails harbor tight turns, drop features, and jumps. Join in the fun of Friday-night evening rides, complete with a DJ spinning tunes in the plaza while bikers spin laps through the park. For mountain bike touring, no ticket required, ride seven miles of single-track and traverse the entire lower mountain, from Après Vous to the The open fields surrounding Teton Village give Hobacks. Rolling and winding along the ski terfolks lots of room to roam – or fly like Superman. rain, this route was designed and built by year-round resort workers – skiers. Expert cyclists might choose to climb the rocky dirt road to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain and ride the tram back down free of charge (downhill riding is prohibited above the top of the Gondola). Ask a resort employee for a trail map. Bring your own bike or rent one from Jackson Hole Sports or Teton Village Sports, where you may also purchase lift tickets or inquire about bike lessons and bike-specific camps for children. For pathway cruisers, check out the bike rentals at Wilderness Sports, Pepi Stiegler Sports, and Jackson “On belay!” “Climbing!” Kids love the artificial climbing wall. Treehouse.
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Disc Golf Play nine holes of Frisbee golf on the free course near the base of the resort. Bring your own discs or buy them at one of the resort’s many shops.
Bungee Trampoline You might be surprised at how high you can jump and the tricks you can pull off with this wildly buoyant summer activity. Fly up to 24 feet in the air, safely. Kids and adults flock to this fun recreational activity.
Climbing Wall Artificial climbing walls have sprung up everywhere, it seems. Over a decade ago Teton Village got into the act with its 25-foot freestanding climbing wall. Go “on belay” with the climbing wall attendant and scale the artificial rock positioned near the base of the Clock Tower. Kids and adults get pumped on the activity. Activity tickets for the bungee trampoline and climbing wall are available at the Bridger Activities Center and Jackson Hole Sports.
Mountain Sports School A variety of programs through the year-round Mountain Sports School provide lots of options for families with kids. The Kid’s Ranch Day Camp, the Kid’s Adventure Guides, and the 10-Speed Bike Camp are some highlights for this summer.
Alive@Five The entire family will enjoy these free weekly programs on the Village Commons from 5–5:45 p.m. On Tuesdays see an engaging and interactive educational presentation on the wildlife and ecology of Jackson Hole by a biologist from the Teton Science Schools. On Wednesdays view the Teton Raptor Center’s live hawks, falcons, eagles, and owls while learning about the unique adaptations that make raptors the unparalleled hunters of the sky. See
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Wade McKoy photos
Kids can’t resist the fountainheads on the Village Commons.
birds of prey both at arm’s length and flying free overhead. On Thursdays listen to a rotating music schedule featuring GTMF Orchestra members as well as local musicians.
Sleep in a Yurt The modern Rock Springs yurt houses a wood-burning stove, eight bunk beds, a kitchen, and a large dining table. Hike up a wooded, 2.5mile trail from Teton Village into the mountains and enjoy the scenery on an overnight with friends. Expert guides prepare the food, stoke the stove, and even do the dishes.
On-mountain Dining Bridger Gondola & the Couloir Restaurant With evening comes the Bridger Gondola as it fires up to transport diners to the Couloir Restaurant. At 9,095 feet, the contemporary and hip restaurant rests nearly 3,000 feet above the valley floor and provides a unique setting for evening
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Rock climbers and guides frequent the granite walls of Corbet’s Couloir.
cocktails or dinner. The outdoor deck is a great place for gazing at Corbet’s Couloir and the soaring heights of the Headwall and Tensleep Bowl.
The Deck Enjoy happy-hour specials like 2 for 1 margaritas, mojitos, draft beers, and wine by the glass. Corbet’s Couloir, the Headwall, and Tensleep Bowl can also be taken in from The Deck. It’s the perfect spot to unwind after an adventurous day. Offering a creative summer menu of appetizers and shared plates from the Al Fresco kitchen. Open from June 24 - Sept 12, Sunday - Friday at 4:30 p.m. Closed Saturday.
Top of the World Waffles Ride the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram to the summit and enter Corbet’s Cabin at “The Top of the World” for a lasting vacation memory – sweet or savory waffles made on the spot. The Cabin also serves up snow cones, hot drinks, refreshing cold beverages, beer, grab-n-go-items, and tram sou-
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venirs. Relax and enjoy your snacks on the outdoor deck while soaking up amazing valley views.
The Taco Truck At the base of the gondola in a small plaza with tables, the Tin Can Cantina serves real homemade tacos. Good eating and easy on the pocketbook.
Rancher Cookout Take a step back in time and enjoy a night in the Old West. Ride in a covered wagon to a historic barn at the base of the Tetons for a cowboy dinner and entertainment. Chef Wes Hamilton and his staff create a night of fun and great grub. The menu includes BBQ chicken, slow roasted tri-tip, cowboy beans, cornbread, salads, grilled corn, dessert, water, lemonade, coffee, and hot chocolate. (June 15 - Sept 15, Tues-Sat; call 739-2654 to make a reservation). — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide, with Lauren Whaley and Anna Cole
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GRAND TARGHEE
IDAHO
The slopes above Grand Targhee are home to wildflower-strewn trails perfect for horseback riding, hiking, and bicycling.
fir, pine, and aspen, sits Grand Targhee, a full-service, year-round resort. Over 2,600 acres of terrain perfect for hiking, biking, horse-riding, music festivals, and, of course, skiing lie upon three mountain peaks that stretch upward from the quaint Western village. And from the tops of those peaks, the rugged Tetons seem close enough to reach out and touch.
Scenic Chairlift Ride For the best Teton views possible anywhere, without breaking a sweat, that is, ride the Dreamcatcher chairlift to the 9,862-foot summit of Fred’s Mountain. Use the lift for sightseeing or as a jump-start to a spectacular, high-altitude hike. Take your bike up the lift, too – as long as it’s the downhill variety. Learn about these special bikes and trails at Targhee’s own bike shops: Teton Mountain Outfitters in the village Main Plaza and Habitat in downtown Driggs, Idaho.
Mountain Bike Explore nearly 3,000 feet of lift-serviced downhill and over 19 miles of cross-country mountain bike trails. The Targhee Bike Park offers every style of riding for every level of mountain bike rider: gentle banked cruisers, tight and twisty single-track, cross-country, and gnarly, rock-strewn downhill with drop offs. Lift-assisted rides start with Sidewinder to Lightning Ridge & Loop Trails and finish with Colter’s Escape for the longest descent on the mountain.
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And roadies love to ride from Driggs up to the resort, then cruise back down again. Bike rentals, sales, and service are also available at Targhee’s bike shops, Teton Mountain Outfitters in the village Main Plaza, and Habitat in downtown Driggs, Idaho.
Hike Hikes from 30 minutes to several hours – to days, weeks, or months for that matter – start from Grand Targhee. Take the Dreamcatcher chairlift and look out upon the Tetons during a moderate two-mile hike to Mary’s Saddle. Rick’s Basin is an easy loop through aspen meadows affording valley views and options ranging from two to four miles. Lightning Peak’s nine-mile round trip brings hikers breathtakingly close to the massive west face of the Grand Teton. Guided hikes are available, too.
Horseback Trail Rides A good horse is still the best companion – and the best mode of travel – for a long tour through these mountains. The local cowboys at Crooked Canyon Stables can saddle up a good steed and show you these mountains the old-fashioned way. Aside from walking, riding a horse is the only way to tour the Jedediah Smith Wilderness Area within the Teton Range. And horses can take you a lot farther than your own two feet.
New Trails Five new trails and a Mountain Bike Skills Park opened last summer. Three trails are multi-use and two trails are specific to downhill mountain biking. The Peaked Trail is for biking
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and hiking and climbs 1,300 feet onto Peaked Mountain, where big views of the Tetons await. The Lightning Ridge Loop is designated for biking, hiking, and horseback riding. Aptly named for its high-altitude exposure, Lightning Ridge delivers unobstructed views. Downhill mountain bikers will love two of the new trails that were built specifically for this exciting and growing sport. Features include enhanced terrain berms, ladder sections, and jumps. Novice cyclists can ease into trail riding on the new 1.5-mile beginner trail from the Teewinot Lodge to the horse stables. And cyclists of all levels will enjoy the new Mountain Bike Skills Park as they practice and improve their riding technique on a variety of routes and features located near the base of the Dreamcatcher lift. For updates on Trail Volunteer Days, special events, and bike camps visit www.grandtarghee.com.
Climbing Wall The fun and challenge of sport climbing is at your fingertips at Grand Targhee. Coached by the experienced staff, participants can probe six different routes on an artificial climbing wall in the base area.
Disc Golf Disc golf, a perfect activity for the whole family, is free to all Targhee guests. An 18-hole disc golf course begins at the base of the mountain and meanders through its lower reaches. Rent discs at the Activity Center, where scorecards and maps are also available. An annual Disc Golf Tournament is held late July.
Photos: Wade McKoy
igh on the western slope of the Teton H Range, hidden among forests of spruce,
Bruce Hornsby and the Noisemakers, Los Lobos, John Hiatt and the Combo, JJ Grey and Mofro, the Wood Brothers, the Courtyard Hounds, Son Volt, Dave Alvin and the Guilty Ones, Sister Sparrow and the Dirty Birds, Anders Osborne, Holly Williams, and The Hooligans. Food, games, and on-site activities are all a part of this summer music festival. Tent camping on-site is available during the festival weekend. Take advantage of the free shuttle service and leave your vehicle in Driggs.
Start your Rocky Mountain journey at the Naturalist Center located just off the plaza and get a feel for what critters and plants you may find here – from moose to pine martin, from lupine to forget-me-not. Naturalist Programs Start your Rocky Mountain journey at the Naturalist Center located just off the plaza or at the new Summer Summit Nature Center at the top of Dreamcatcher and get a feel for what critters and plants you may find here. From moose to pine martin, from lupine to forget-me-not, feast your eyes, ears, and nose on nature’s purest assemblage in the Lower 48 – and learn a little more about it.
Dining You won’t go hungry at Grand Targhee, no matter what time it is. The Branding Iron Grill is the resort’s signature dining experience, offering house specialties to suit any persuasion. The breakfast buffet is included for lodging guests who booked the breakfast and lodging package. And it’s a great reason to travel up Ski Hill Road for a hearty morning meal. The Trap Bar, an après-ski institution for over 40 years, serves pub fare amid live
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Grace Potter and the Nocturnals, 2010
entertainment and eight flat-screen televisions for sports days.
Widespread Panic, 4th of July Festival The legendary Widespread Panic band is joined by Slightly Stoopid, Sons of Fathers, Motion Potion (aka MoPo - San Francisco) MoPo (aka Robbie Kowal), Futurebirds, Bloodkin, Diarrhea Planet, and J Boogie.
Ninth Annual Targhee Music Fest From Friday to Sunday, July 19-21, an eclectic gathering of bands perform in a natural outdoor amphitheater adjacent to Targhee’s base-area plaza. Catch performances by Alabama Shakes,
26th Annual Targhee Bluegrass Festival From Friday to Sunday, Aug. 9-11, this summer’s lineup at the granddaddy of northern Rocky Mountain bluegrass festivals includes The Infamous Stringdusters, Trampled by Turtles, Elephant Revival, Greensky Bluegrass, the Foghorn Stringband, Run Boy Run, the Sam Bush Band, the Nashville Bluegrass Band, Della Mae, and Hayes Carll.
Lodging Two Western-style lodges are located in the alpine village. A wide range of condominiums, vacation homes, and town homes are available a short distance from the resort. — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide
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TETON VALLEY
Teton Valley, Idaho, “the quiet Isidet’sofofficial: the Tetons,” has become a destination hotspot all its own. Small wonder. The breathtakingly beautiful basin just over the hill from Jackson Hole is replete
All natural Jackson Hole beef raised on conservation land and finished with spent grains. Our beef are steroid and antibiotic free and are always humanely treated by gentle cowboys. Mead Beef is dry-aged for 21 days for the most succulent steaks and bodacious burgers.
For more than 100 years, in the shadows of the Tetons, the Hansen/Mead Family has raised the highest quality beef available. Available at the Jackson Hole Farmers Market and at these fine Jackson Restaurants & Grocers: Pearl Street Market • Snake River Grill Rendezvous Bistro • Q Roadhouse • Ignite Il Villaggio Osteria • The Calico • Teton Pines The Kitchen • Snake River Brew Pub
Jackson Hole Natural Beef, LLC Jackson, Wyoming • 307.734.3911 www.meadranchbeef.com
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with recreational, cultural, and resort opportunities. Color-suffused sunrises and sunsets mark summer days in this outdoor playground that almost seems designed by a providential band of recreationists. Angling, hiking, trekking, biking, camping, horseback riding, socializing, and concert-going barely tap the list of what every Teton Valley resident—and pretty much every Jackson Hole outdoor enthusiast—takes advantage of in summer. The valley’s charming towns of Victor, Driggs, and Tetonia, Idaho, lie just to the west of 8,429foot Teton Pass. True, one of the only traffic lights in the entire valley is right there in the middle of Victor. But a stoplight couldn’t be more helpfully placed. This well-known crossroads affords travelers the choice of routes to Jackson Hole, the expanse of Teton Basin and its mountain country, or a backdoor into Yellowstone National Park. Travelers heading on to Driggs sometimes nearly run off the road when the Tetons loom into view on the right (the east side of the valley). Just about the time drivers regain their composure, another certifiable landmark pops up, The Spud Drive-in Theater. This enterprise is almost a national treasure. Folks looking for a little romance, or families yearning for a movie and an evening under a billion stars, shouldn’t pass up the Spud. A Spud “Gladysburger,” a stunning sunset, and a movie add up to a perfect summer evening under the Tetons. The Spud’s efforts to keep it up and running are further ensuring its place in movie-going history. Fundraising to make the switch from film to digital projection equipment has created a cause célébre for this regional landmark. After a day of chasing fun in the basin’s topography, settling in for a movie, a brew, and big-screen entertainment seals the deal for locals and visitors alike.
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Of course, deciding on how to burn those lifenourishing calories during daylight presents its own challenges. The Teton Range on the east and the Big Hole Mountains on the valley’s west side (home to some of the region’s best single-track mountain biking) just beg for exploring. The wilderness below the Tetons, the Jedediah Smith area, is only minutes from Driggs and a sparkling lure for hikers of all ages. Adventurous trekkers employ the trails near Targhee Resort (see story on page 24) to access and cross over into Grand Teton National Park. The go-to site for leg-stretching info belongs to Teton Valley Trails and Pathways: tvtap.org. Maps for cycling, bike lanes, hiking trails and, just in case, a Nordic map to help those who decide to winter over in this playland can all be accessed on the site. Anglers can ply the valley’s Blue Ribbon water, the Teton River. Given the basin’s proximity to the prized South Fork of the Snake River or the iconic Henry’s Fork River, fly-fishing enthusiasts might struggle helplessly to leave Teton Valley. And the local chamber of commerce has also made sure that its calendar is packed with fun right in the towns themselves. Teton Valley’s Summer Festival, slated for the week of July 4th, brims with activities. The annual 4th of July celebration,
Photos: Wade McKoy
Fishing on the Teton River
by Mike Calabrese
IDAHO
The Spud Drive-in movie mascot, Old Murphy
for instance, welcomes summer visitors in grand style: Tetonia hosts a rodeo, Driggs launches its annual Hot Air Balloon Festival, and Victor lights up Independence Day with a parade and fireworks. Chamber doings are available at: tetonvallychamber.com. Music is, naturally, a mainstay of summer pretty much everywhere. And nowhere more than in Teton Valley. The hugely popular Music on Main Street concert series draws national top-tier performers and attracts audience members from the entire Greater Yellowstone Region. Seven headliner acts, from June 27-August 15, take to the stage in the classic small-town Victor City Park. This year’s lineup will again fill the evening air with funk, jamband music, dancegrass, outlaw country, and even a vaudeville-like talent show. Plan on hitting one of these festivals by going online at: tetonvalleyfoundation.org. Obviously, “quiet” in Teton Valley has taken on a whole new meaning. And travelers and regional adventure seekers are taking advantage of it.
Color-suffused sunrises and sunsets mark summer days in this outdoor playground.
— Mike Calabrese
cody
WYOMING
The highway follows the North Fork of the Shoshone River as it winds through Wapiti Valley outside Cody.
by Mike Calabrese
ody, Wyoming, has a lot to live up to. Barely an hour C from the nation’s foremost national park, the town and its namesake, the nearly mythic Colonel William F. (Buffalo Bill) Cody, are central to the great American West’s history.
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Cody’s Plains Indian Pow-wow celebrates the culture of Native Americans.
Photos: Bob Woodall
But its billing as a “get after it community” might just be Cody’s greatest asset. A visit to this living museum of the Old and New West leaves little doubt about the town’s place in the pantheon of mountain-country treasures. Because Cody lies at the hub of many breathtaking roadways, arriving at, traveling around, or leaving the town affords visitors journeys into scenery unsurpassed anywhere. For starters: The Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway courses alongside the Shoshone River’s north fork, through the Wapiti (a Native American word for elk) Valley and leads to Yellowstone National Park. Another, The Chief Joseph Scenic Highway, besides recalling one of the most heartbreaking events in U.S. history, winds through the Clark’s Fork region, past Sunlight Basin and to the top of Dead Indian Pass. Neither the area’s history nor the lay of the land can be ignored here. One byway, the Beartooth All-American Road, is not for the faint of heart. Its crest at 10,947 feet, some have called it “the most beautiful highway in America.” The vistas here are unequalled and worth their weight in gold – or camera equipment. And those are just for starters. Or “leavers,” if you can pull yourself away from the town itself. A stay in Cody is something like a dig for archaeologists, revealing layer upon layer of life’s insights and adventures. Anglers, bikers, river runners, hunters, hikers, horse enthusiasts, pretty much anyone drawn to the region’s rich landscape, will all uncover its treasure. The North and South forks of the Shoshone River, their waters roiling and teeming with life, play host to adventurers of all ages and abilities. On the river in kayaks or rafts, or casting a line from a bank or into a pool of cutthroat, water recreationists can put their energies to work, sun up to sundown. Families looking for a quick hike into Buffalo Bill’s beloved country can trek pretty much right from the town environs on the Paul Stock Nature Trail. The pathway parallels the Shoshone River and affords views of Heart, Rattlesnake, Cedar, and Carter mountains. Cameras and kids will love this jaunt. Bikers, too, find quick easy access into trails, again right from town. Beck Lake Park, Red Lakes, and of course the Paul Stock
Nightly “shootouts” next to Buffalo Bill’s Irma Hotel dramatize the Old West.
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Buffalo Bill Center of the West
The Old West itself may be a century-and-a-half distant, but the museum’s proximity to our first and grandest national park reveals why “the journey to Yellowstone National Park begins here.” A mere 50 miles from Yellowstone’s East Gate, and housing five exhibition areas, the Buffalo Bill Center of the West can easily fill a traveler’s hours—or day—with insight into the West, its inhabitants old and new, and its place on the landscape of today. Wildlife, geology, and the forests of Yellowstone, showcased in the Museum of Natural History, provide a “framework” for a park visit unequaled anywhere else. And an impressive live birds-of-prey presentation––the “Greater Yellowstone Raptor Experience”––will hold the attention of even the weariest of travelers. This is the stuff not only of museums, but also of the region’s fauna itself. The museum’s namesake, William F. “Buffalo Bill” Cody himself, is colorfully revealed in the
Bob Woodall
new name says it all: The Buffalo Bill Center of the West. The man himself, the West, and the iconic, indelible symbol of a vanished way of life in America’s past are all revealed in this stunning Cody, Wyoming, museum.
The Buffalo Bill Center of the West showcases the Wild West.
newly renovated Buffalo Bill Museum section. Cody’s boundless affection for the area was and still is contagious, touching museum-goers young old today. And the challenge of surviving those early days is evident in the display of period rifles housed in the Cody Firearms Museum wing. Art, particularly of the American West, captured both the spirit and the substance of the landscape
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www.centerofthewest.org • Cody, Wyoming 28
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Art, particularly of the American West, captured both the spirit and the substance of the landscape and culture of Yellowstone. and culture of Yellowstone. Something about early Western art transfixed Americans even more than photos. Treasured masterworks by notables like Thomas Moran, Albert Bierstadt and many others inspired by Yellowstone’s wonders are on display in the Center’s Whitney Western Art Museum. Of course the region’s true settlers, Native Americans, are brought to life in the Plains Indian Museum. Their stories take flight through recordings, art, and artifacts as the Yellowstone where they lived, hunted, and explored is all breathtakingly depicted. The museum’s single admission price is a bargain. The research library, the store, and the eatery are all accessed through the museum’s complex, and help guarantee a visitor’s journey into the Center of the West will be worth every second spent there. — Mike Calabrese
even a jazz festival, the town brims with aural and visual delights. And, finally, there’s the Cody Nite Rodeo, with all its spectacle, drama, and just plain old family fun. Billed as the Rodeo Capitol of the World, a lodestone of Americana in the Wild West, Cody’s rodeo season runs nightly from June 1 through August 31. (For more information, see story on next page.) Sometimes, though, the simple things in life yield the greatest treasures. In a move the town’s founders would be proud of, the chamber of commerce has created an audio tour narrated by hometown boy and former U.S. Senator Alan Simpson. An audio clip and a PDF map, both downloadable from www.codychamber.org., allow
visitors with their feet on the ground a relaxing view into Cody’s downtown history. Simpson’s folksy, heartfelt narration is the perfect companion for a rewarding walking tour into Cody’s history and its landmarks in town and on the horizons. Travelers with smartphones or access to a computer can log onto the Cody chamber’s website. Second to none, the site hosts a colorful compendium of photos, information, and opportunities for the visitor to Cody country. Just right for families planning the trip of a lifetime into the living West—old and new. Mike Calabrese is a musician, editor, and writer living in Jackson Hole.
Bob Woodall
Cody, continued from previous page
A shootout actor portrays Col. William F. Cody.
Nature Trail, make crafting a colorful family outing a snap. The West and horses, both symbols of the region’s landscape, go hand in hand and still tug at travelers to Cody country. Hundreds of miles of
Anglers, bikers, river runners, hunters, hikers, horse enthusiasts, no one drawn to the region’s rich landscape will be disappointed. The North and South forks of the Shoshone River, their waters roiling and teeming with life, play host to adventurers of all ages and abilities. trails, full- or half-day rides, or full-blown multiday pack trips await those chomping at the bit to sit a horse. Cody, of course, is no less proud of its cultural features than any other community. But Cody’s palette of offerings has the added benefit of geography and history. Its gem, the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, a constantly growing museum, showcases and celebrates the rich, epochal American West. The town’s complex of historical edifices gives life to Cody’s connection to one of America’s most prized eras, the settling of the West. Buffalo Bill’s Irma Hotel, nearby historic Old Town, Tecumseh’s Old West Village, the Dug Up Cody Museum, to name just a few, should easily keep kids and adults alike wondering about and celebrating history’s eye into the past. Music, too, is permanently etched into Cody’s living fabric. From cowboy music reviews to chuckwagon dinners with live music, and
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ell them you stayed three days and had one heckuva good time in Cody, Wyoming. That you let your hair down, so to speak. You let Cody be your hub while you ventured out on five spectacular loop tours. You went hiking and fishing and took amazing pictures in Yellowstone. You rode the rapids and the horses. You stepped back in time and got to know the real Buffalo Bill at the Buffalo Bill Center of the West. You liked him. Call 1-800-393-2639 or visit yellowstonecountry.org
Fly into Cody via Delta and United Airlines
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CODY NITE RODEO
Original cowboy sport in the Rodeo Capitol of the World
Hanging on for an 8-second ride is the challenge for bronc and bull riders (above). A cowboy’s rope, or lariet, an honest-to-goodness tool of the trade (left).
By Joy Ufford
It’s the most magical moment of the night, when a microphone crackles to life and the inspiring lyrics of our national anthem lift hearts around the arena as many sing along with the words that stir them deeply every time –“the land of the free and the home of the brave…” Rodeo is so thoroughly American now (despite roots in vaquero and ranching traditions of Mexico and old California) that it’s mandatory to see the star-spangled banner grasped in a rodeo queen’s hand as she gallops around the arena on her horse, both showing off for appreciative crowds. That’s what rodeo is all about, in a way – showing off. From snaky bulls to snorting broncs, born to buck and born to run; from a glittering rhinestone-studded belt here to some turquoise-fringed leather there. It’s about showing off in a good way, because there’s nothing wrong with living to kick higher, run faster, ride longer, rope quicker. For bull and bronc riders it’s about getting better scores, keeping a tighter handle on their ride. For the bulls and broncs, it’s about putting on a show trying to launch cowboys into outer space. When the sparkling gals tear around on their stretched-out horses, burning turns around three barrels set in sand, speed and style command attention. For the more taciturn ropers, it’s the quick elegance of a rope sailing through the air to catch a steer or calf in a heartbeat or two. Man, woman, or animal, it’s a great way to be alive. There’s nothing like it. Rodeo hasn’t changed much over the years,
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Photos: Bob Woodall
Dust puffs underfoot as cowgirls and cowboys, little to large, expectant crowds, and rodeo clowns shuffle their boots and silently clutch hats to chests. The setting sun sends shafts of warm light through the evening air and bathes everyone – rider, roper, racer – in a golden glow and sharpens the silhouettes of waiting horses and swaggering bulls. The patriotic opening ceremony
except to get even better – better horses, meaner bulls, faster times, and more money. But one thing that never changes about rodeo is the contestants’ heartfelt desires to be good, even great, at something they love. The same can be said of their horses, whether buckin’ broncs or muscled mounts: that good feeling of doing a job well holds as true for the animals as it does for the men and women who ride them and for the rodeo clowns who risk life and limb to entertain the crowd. Cody has been called the “Rodeo Capital of the World,” and that isn’t stretching things. Talented cowboys and girls come from Peru, Australia, Canada – even Japan – to test their skills in Cody Stampede Park vying for big cash and big buckles. And to have an exciting show every night, the rough stock has to buck. Nightly events include bareback and saddle broncs, calf and team roping, steer wrestling, breakaway roping, barrel racing and bull riding, as well as a calf scramble for the kids. The youngsters are also treated to trick-roping demonstrations, meeting bullfighters, getting their face painted by rodeo clowns and more. All grandstand seating is covered and affords great views of the arena. Special events include Xtreme Bulls on June 30
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at 7 p.m., when 40 of the best riders in the world shoot for the $50,000 purse as well as the CodyYellowstone Xtreme Bulls title. Then there’s the Buffalo Bill Cody Stampede, one of the country’s premiere Fourth of July rodeo celebrations. It’s been playing host to the top cowboys and cowgirls for more than 80 years and is one of nine stops on the Million Dollar Gold Tour Series. Often called "Cowboy Christmas" by the contestants, it’s one of rodeo's crown jewels. For top cowboys and cowgirls, this is the place to win big purses and ride the best stock. On July 2, come see who’s “Tough Enough to Wear Pink,” a special program supported by the Cody Stampede to raise awareness of and help find a cure for breast cancer. July 1, 2, & 3 performances are at 8:00 p.m., July 4th performance is at 5:00 p.m. Cody Nite Rodeo tickets are $18 for adults, $8 for kids 7-12. Cody Stampede tickets range from $16-$24. All can be reserved by calling 1-800207-0744, going online at codystampederodeo.com, or stopping at the Stampede Park on the west side of Cody. Joy Ufford lives in Bondurant, where she is a ranch hand and a writer for Pinedale’s Sublette Examiner.
BUFFALO BILL DAM Inspired engineering among the crags By Mike Calabrese
Bob Woodall
In the heart of Colonel William F. Cody’s old haunt, in fact right on some of Cody’s own land, one piece of Wyoming reflects nature and man at work together, albeit reluctantly. The Buffalo Bill Dam, fashioned from almost 83,000 cubic yards of concrete over five years, sits on the bed of the Shoshone River, in a canyon carved by nature over millions of years. The spectacular undertaking in the Shoshone Canyon claimed the lives of seven men during its construction, no small cost when compared to the pittance (by today’s standards) of the project’s final bill: $929,658. At 325 feet high and 200 feet across, the impressive structure was the tallest of its kind back in its early days, when it was known as the Shoshone Dam. Water flowed from the dam, providing lifeblood to farmers, ranchers, and residents in the region upon its completion in 1910. More than 93,000 acres of land in the surrounding Bighorn Basin depend on the liquid gold stored behind the dam for irrigation. In 1922, Perched atop the 353-foot-tall Buffalo Bill Dam, the visitor the completion of the Shoshone center affords a spectacular view. Power Plant brought the dam to its seeking a breathtaking place to view the results full potential. In 1946 the dam was renamed in honor of of nature’s and man’s combined efforts. The visitor center is staffed and open from Buffalo Bill, who even then knew the value of the West and perhaps its most coveted ele- May to September, affording visitors jaw-dropment: water. An American visionary, Cody real- ping views of both the dam and the river. A nonized that canals could never really supply profit enterprise, the center also offers travelers enough water to efficiently nurture settlement the chance to grab a cup of coffee while viewand growth in the region. He gave up on his ing exhibits, enjoying a movie in its theater, or own plan for an extensive canal system and even purchasing tickets to Cody’s Nite Rodeo. redirected his efforts and support to the con- The Buffalo Bill Dam is designated a National Civil Engineering Landmark and is listed on the struction of the dam. National Register of Historic Places. While still reliably fulfilling its original purFor more information, visit the website at: pose, the dam today draws thousands of adwww.bbdvc.com. mirers and recreationists as well. Buffalo Bill State Park and the reservoir’s waters play host Mike Calabrese is a musician, editor, and to anglers, boaters, campers, photographers, writer living in Jackson Hole. windsurfers, hikers, cyclists, and those simply
Located 6 miles west of Cody, Wyoming Civil Engineering Landmark Travel Information Self-guided historical audio tour Fantastic views, exhibits & bookstore
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PINEDALE
WYOMING
Western hospitality, abundant wildlife, and stunning scenery make Pinedale the perfect base camp for summer activities.
Stunning terrain lures hikers into in the Wind River Mountains above Pinedale.
Dubbed “The Green River Rendezvous,” this 1833 mountain man gathering was the first of six to convene just a few miles from present day Pinedale. There was no chamber of commerce welcome wagon back then. And the convention center itself stretched along the Green River. Here’s the way it looked to John Kirk Townsend, a scientist traveling with the Nathaniel Wyeth expedition of 1832: “There is … a great variety of personages amongst us, most of them calling themselves white men, French-Canadians, half-breeds, etc., their color nearly as dark, and their manners wholly as wild, as the Indians with whom they constantly associate. These people, with their obstreperous mirth, their whooping and howling, and quarrelling, added to the mounted Indians, who are constantly dashing into and through our camp, yelling like fiends, the barking and baying of savage wolf-dogs, and the incessant cracking of rifles and carbines, render our camp a perfect bedlam.” Things are a little more civilized today, but the Old West lives on in the Upper Green River Valley. Previously traversed by Indians, mountain men, and explorers, the region was first settled in the late 1800s by cattlemen taking advantage of its wide-open spaces. Ranching today remains an integral part of the economy, but visitors have now discovered the magical town and valley. Pinedale, founded in 1904, rests at an elevation of 7,175 feet in crisp mountain air. A few miles away, the magnificent Wind River Mountain Range towers over the settlement like a crown tipped with white gold and bejeweled with azure mountain lakes and emer-
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ald forests. A classic Western town, Pinedale lies 100 miles north of Rock Springs and a mere 80 scenic miles south of Jackson Hole. Western hospitality, abundant wildlife, and stunning scenery make it the perfect base camp for summer activities. The list of possibilities for adventurers is impressive. Sightseeing, shopping, exploring history, fishing, hiking, climbing, camping, horseback riding, hunting, boating, sailing, and biking are all on the Pinedale-region bucket list. And there’s plenty of space to do it in: 80 percent of the country surrounding Pinedale is public land, most of it protected by the Bridger-Teton National Forest and the Bureau of Land Management. In fact, Sublette County harbors two wilderness areas and vast tracks of open spaces. More than enough room to roam in and for discovering that special hideaway.
Photos from top: Pinedale Chamber of Commerce - www.roadtothesun.com; Art Institute of Colorado; Wade McKoy (fish)
bout 180 years ago Pinedale began A hosting conventions – of sorts.
Fremont Lake
Shopping Before heading out in search of fun, though, check with the chamber of commerce for more detailed regional information. If you’re not yet outfitted for that trip into the great outdoors, town shops can get you fixed up with everything from a cowboy hat to a climbing helmet. Even the local brewpub offers “fishing supplies.” Area artisans, of course, craft ample unique items. More than one visitor has proudly taken home a handhewn lodgepole log bed.
Water Water Everywhere Water, in case you haven’t heard, is the West’s lifeblood. Clear mountain creeks, rivers, and lakes are as ubiquitous as the antelope roaming the high plains. Aquatic recreation ranges from flyfishing to waterskiing. A good place to Continued page 34
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Some 1,300 lakes and hundreds of miles of fishing streams mark the Pinedale region.
Green River Rendezvous and Museum of the Mountain Man
ALL THE HISTORY YOU NEED.
Photos: Courtesy PinedaleOnline.com
By Mike Calabrese
The 1830s fur-trade era comes alive at the Green River Rendezvous.
The cry “Meet me on the Green!” was a re- lasted for months. Time enough to get supplies, renew friendships, swap stories, trade, tipple minder and a reassurance to early trappers, who and, of course, debauch. Of the 16 rendezvous spent long and isolated winters gathering held during the height of the Rocky Mountain fur beaver pelts. Cowboys once roamed pretty much every- trade, six were located in the Green River Valley. Exhibits at the museum provide a good startwhere west of the Mississippi and have outlived ing point for visitors heading to the 75th Annual even their almost mythical epoch of the late Green River Rendezvous, a 1800s. But mountain men, who re-creation of those original made do with less (after all, The cry “Meet me on the man gatherings. cowboys always had their Green!” was a reminder and mountain This year’s rendezvous, rehorses and cattle), pretty much a reassurance to early trap- plete with activities for the enwent the way of the beaver hat tire family, runs July 11-14. by the late 1850s. And yet, the pers, who spent long and The Rendezvous Pageant, mountain man’s story is every isolated winters where over 200 members of bit the match of the cowboy’s the community perform in for color and lore, especially gathering beaver pelts. original costumes, is held at when it comes to the “Winning the Pinedale Rodeo Grounds. of the West.” For more information visit the Green River RenFor every Bat Masterson, Bill Hickok, and Wyatt Earp, there was an equally notable moun- dezvous Pageant Association’s website at meetmeonthegreen.com or call (307) 367-2242. tain man. John C. Fremont and William Sublette The museum captures the ways and lore of have a couple of Wyoming counties and mounthese hardy individuals. Clothing, artifacts, rare tain peaks named after them. Jedediah Smith documents, photos, mounted animals, even the and Kit Carson both certainly garnered enough Chief American Horse Warrior Society tipi help press to earn their places in popular Western bring the days of the mountain man alive. The culture. And mountain man Jim Bridger is so museum also colorfully showcases western revered around here that visitors to Wyoming wildlife, Indians, fur trapping, wagon trains, will find no fewer than 21 places honoring him. mountain men, and bison in its spacious Fitting, then, that a .40 caliber half-stock rifle of 15,000-square-foot facility. Bridger’s rifle, given his should end up in the region’s most famous collection of mountain man history and memo- to him in 1853, was at one time part of the Buffalo Bill collection. Fortunately, it has found a rabilia – the Museum of the Mountain Man in permanent home in this rewarding and informaPinedale, Wyoming. tive setting. Even more fitting, the museum is situated on The Museum of the Mountain Man is open a hill not far from the site of the original Green River Rendezvous, held in 1833 in the “Valley of daily from 9 a.m. until 5 p.m., through Septemthe Green.” Over 3,000 Indians, hundreds of ber 30. Admission fees are $5 for adults, $4 for mountain men, fur trappers, and missionaries seniors, and $3 for kids 6-12 years old. For more information call toll free (877) 686-6266, go onassembled there to barter and trade their goods. The cry “Meet me on the Green!” was a re- line at museumofthemountainman.com. or visit minder and a reassurance to early trappers, who the museum’s Facebook page. spent long and isolated winters gathering beaver pelts. The call reached traders who travMike Calabrese is a musician, editor, and eled countless miles on hazardous, often life- writer living in Jackson Hole. threatening trails. These rendezvous sometimes w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
JULY 11-14, 2013
MUSEUM of the MOUNTAIN MAN OPEN DAILY MAY 1ST - OCTOBER 31ST P.O. Box 909, 700 E. Hennick St. Pinedale, Wyoming 82941
tel 877-686-6266
info@mmmuseum.com www.mmmuseum.com
ALL THE CIVILIZATION YOU NEED.
VISITPINEDALE.ORG
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Dubois
By Mike Calabrese
dubois
WYOMING
et in the upper Wind River valley, the S gemlike town of Dubois, Wyoming, is framed
And it’s only an hour’s scenic drive from Jackson (to the west) and Riverton (to the east). A stroll down the main street, most of it still appointed with boardwalks, yields a taste of Wyoming’s Old West flavor. Log buildings, saloons, quaint shops, and even tipis welcome the travel-weary visitor. A vibrant arts community nourishes visitors and residents alike. No wonder that American Cowboy Magazine recently named Dubois one of the “Best Rural Towns in the West.” The nearby Wind River Range, revered by Native Americans for years before the white man’s arrival, is replete with colorful history and wildlife. Shoshone and Sheepeater Indians traveled and hunted throughout this range, which borders the 2.2-million-acre Wind River Reservation, today home to Northern Arapaho and Eastern Shoshone tribes. Backpackers and hikers to the Winds can choose from nearly 800 miles of trails lacing the range’s vast, stunning beauty. Over 150 glaciers work the Winds, beckoning hikers and climbers alike. The Winds are studded with lakes and creeks, themselves teeming with rainbow, cutthroat, golden, brook, German brown, and Mackinaw trout. Anglers should come well supplied and ready to reel. And much of the wildlife that Yellowstone visitors can spy also roams the Winds. The park itself is a mere 55 miles distant. A layover in Dubois for those heading west also pro-
Bob Woodall
by Butch Cassidy’s haunting Dubois Badlands to the east, the stark Absaroka Range to the north, and the majestic Wind River Range to the south.
The massive Wind River Mountain Range dominates the skyline of the Upper Green River Valley.
vides travelers with a bracing early morning view of the Tetons by way of stunning Togwotee Pass. Keep the camera at hand everywhere in the Dubois country. One of the world’s most magnificent big game animals, the Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep, is showcased in the Dubois area, both indoors and outdoors. The Whiskey Mountain Wildlife Habitat Area, just minutes from town, is home to North America’s largest wintering herd of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep. And the National Bighorn
Sheep Interpretive Center, in downtown Dubois, provides an awe-inspiring venue for the country’s most impressive display of these noble creatures. Dubois is not some sleepy little Wyoming town scrambling for tourists. Dubois is that little diamond doorway into the historic past and the region’s endlessly picturesque outdoors. Want to know more? On the Web at www.duboiswyoming.org or call 307-455-2556. Mike Calabrese is a musician, editor, and writer living in Jackson Hole.
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start is Fremont Lake, just four miles from Pinedale. Eleven miles long and 600 feet deep, it’s the second largest natural lake in Wyoming. Fremont sports several public boat launches, a marina, a lodge and restaurant, and numerous campsites. Fishing, waterskiing, sailing, canoeing, kayaking, and swimming are some of the ways to ply its waters. But Fremont is just one of 10 large glacial lakes strung like a jeweled necklace along the foothills of the Winds. Deeper in the mountains, over 1,300 lakes, many teeming with trout, dot the landscape. From one of these mountain lakes, a major artery of the West, the historic Green River, begins its journey. The main tributary of the Colorado River, the Green’s coveted waters sustain many a Western town. Not surprisingly, the Green is a favorite of anglers hoping to hook one of its six trout species. The upper stretches can be reached from the road, but floating is a preferred access for vast reaches of isolated river. Keep in mind that many other streams emanating from the mountains also boast prime fishing waters.
Horseback Riding The West is a natural place to get Western. Mount up and hit the trail. Several nearby outfitters provide reliable horses and all the equipment needed for a day in the saddle. You might want to bring your own Stetson, though. Cowboys, even outfitter types, don’t part lightly with their hats.
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If you want more than a short trail ride, consider booking a week at one of the several area dude ranches. This is a classic way to be immersed in Old West Americana. Some working cattle ranches even offer the chance to cowpoke on a real cattle drive.
Hiking and Backpacking One of the best ways to experience the Winds is to hit the trail. From dozens of trailheads, a vast network of paths reaches into these mountains. They range from easy strolls to arduous treks— some right into the heart of the wilderness. A great way to ease the strain of a 50-pound pack is to rent a llama. These friendly animals can haul up to 60 pounds of gear, freeing the backpacker to enjoy the hike without the burden.
Camping Over 20 developed public campgrounds mark the area, most managed by either the BTNF or BLM. But away from these established campgrounds trekkers can pitch a tent most anywhere on public lands. Check regulations first, however, as restrictions apply. And remember: this is bear country.
Climbing The Wind River Range offers all levels of rock climbing and mountaineering challenges, from simple bouldering to extended ascents of mountain peaks. Sitting astride the Continental Divide, the granitic rock of the Winds provides many ex-
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cellent climbing routes. In the northern end lies glaciated Gannett Peak. At 13,804 feet, it’s the highest point in Wyoming and shelters the largest glacier in the U.S. Rocky Mountains. The Cirque of the Towers at the southern end of the range is nationally, if not internationally, renowned for its sheer rock walls and scenic grandeur. Pingora, Lizard Head, Shark’s Nose, and Warbonnet are some of the challenging peaks to scale.
Mountain Biking The Pinedale region harbors hundreds of miles of backcountry roads and trails, affording mountain-biking enthusiasts plenty of options. Elevation ranges from 7,000 to well over 10,000 feet, terrain varying from flat and gentle prairie to steep mountain slopes. And although biking is allowed on the BTNF and BLM lands, it’s prohibited in the Bridger Wilderness area.
Defining Your Own Vacation From exploring history to exploring the peaks, from mounting a trusty steed to mounting a modern mountain bike, Pinedale and the Upper Green River Valley can provide most of what anyone would desire in a Western vacation. Heck, you might not even miss seeing Old Faithful Geyser. For a calendar of events marking rodeos, concerts, chuckwagon gatherings, even a truck-andtractor pull, visit www.sublettechamber.com. — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide
Some of my favorite places
Photos: Wade McKoy (top); Wade McKoy/Wilderness Ventures (right); Janet Melvin (clouds)
HIKING
Bushwacking at 10,000 feet near Hurricane Pass and the Teton Crest Trail, Grand Teton National Park
E
by Becky Woods
xperiencing the landscape of Greater Yellowstone from inside your vehicle is akin to window-shopping: it only offers a glimpse of the treasures that wait within. Incomparable scenic vistas, wildflowers, and wildlife lie beyond the asphalt. Put on your walking shoes and hit the dirt on the favored trails suggested below. They won’t disappoint.
Grand Teton National Park Begin your park exploration at the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center in Moose. A free orientation film, exhibits, helpful staff and a selection of maps and guidebooks will enrich your time spent in the Tetons. Fill your water bottle and head down the inner park road to the turnout for String Lake at North Jenny Lake Junction. The signed Leigh Lake trail begins at the north end of String
Lake parking area. This pleasantly wooded path parallels first String, then Leigh lakes—framed by the best close-up views of Mount Moran in the park. If this spectacular hike
Luckily for vacationers, many of the best short hikes get up-close-andpersonal with some major attractions. whets your appetite for more (and it will!) check out the Lake Creek/Woodland Trail Loop in Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve or the perennial favorite trail to Hidden Falls departing from the South Jenny Lake parking area. An early start is recommended for both these justly popular trails, to secure both parking and relative solitude.
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Cruising the aspen groves, knee deep in wildflowers, Tetons over your shoulder — family fun at its finest. 2 0 1 3 T E TO N & Y E L L OW STO N E A DV E N T U R E G U I D E
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Jackson and Teton Village Visitors lodging in the town of Jackson or Teton Village will find rewarding hiking in their respective “backyard” ski areas. A network of trails honeycombs the summit and base of Snow King Mountain in Jackson; download a free map at friendsofpathways.org/resources. Riding the chairlift to the summit of Snow King and hiking 1.8miles down to the base is a popular option. The panoramic view showcases Jackson and the five mountain ranges surrounding this mountain town. The tram ride to the summit of 10,400-foot Rendezvous Peak in Teton Village instantly transports you to the alpine zone and tremendous views of the Gros Ventre Range enclosing the east side of Jackson Hole. Set off on the Top of the World Trail to the Cody Bowl Spur Trail and Green River Overlook for views of the Tetons and the valley floor far below. Double-back, or continue on the Rock Springs Trail to the Summit Trail to complete the memorable 4.2-mile Cody Bowl/ Rock Springs Loop. A spectacular new trail links the summit of Rendezvous Mountain with the top of the Bridger Gondola, dropping 1,350 vertical feet as it winds through the spectacular Tensleep Bowl, traverses The Cirque and descends the Headwall. From there the gondola ride down is free. Trail maps are available at jacksonhole.com.
Yellowstone
Photos, clockwise from top left: Bob Woodal (top left, Wade McKoy (3)
The nation’s first national park deserves a lifetime of exploration. Assuming your vacation isn’t quite that long, one has to be selective. Luckily, some of the best short hikes in the park bring you up-close-and-personal with its major attractions. Cerulean blue Grand Prismatic Spring—the world’s largest known hot spring—commands attention as you near Old Faithful. Dubbed the “Earth’s Eye,” it can be reached via the boardwalk at Midway Geyser Basin. Check the geyser eruption schedule at the Old Faithful Visitor’s Center when you arrive: if you’re lucky, you’ll be able to hike to impressive Castle Geyser to witness it spout off, an event that only occurs twice a day. Elephant Back Loop Trail, south of Fishing Bridge, offers an elevated view of Yellowstone Lake backed by Mt. Sheridan, snow-capped well into summer. Trails to the bottom of thundering Tower Falls and through the terraces at Mammoth Hot Springs both earn spots on the don’t-miss list.
A short hike from the Jenny Lake boat dock at Cascade Canyon leads boatloads of summer hikers toward the Teton’s natural splendor.
This author’s personal favorite, however, is Uncle Tom’s Trail at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. This path, the oldest in the park, drops into the canyon for so-close-you-get-wet views of 308-foot Lower Falls. Early park visitors held onto a knotted rope to make the steep descent. Today’s visitors hike on open-mesh, steel steps. Inexpensive trail maps can be purchased at various visitor centers, or downloaded in advance at www. yellowstone-natl-park. com/maps.htm.
Grand Targhee/Teton Valley
A remote, high-alpine lake, bejeweled in wildflowers, crowns a rugged canyon.
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The west slope of the Teton Range lies predominantly in Wyoming, but is accessed through Idaho’s Teton Valley. “Wydaho” boasts spectacular hiking. The level hike up South Teton Canyon provides a world-class warm-up before moving on to knock-your-socks-off views at Grand Targhee Ski Resort. The new Bannock Trail skirts the lip of
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South Leigh Canyon as it climbs to the top of Fred’s Mountain. Outstanding wildflowers and views make it the trail of choice.
Pinedale Pinedale is the portal to the Wind River Range, arguably the best backpacking range in the lower 48 and home to 15 of Wyoming’s 16 highest peaks. Day hikers will want to check out Green River Lakes. These comely bodies of water attract canoeists and anglers, and provide reflecting pools for impressive Squaretop Mountain, an oftphotographed Wyoming landmark as recognizable as the Grand Teton. An attainable panorama of the Winds’ high peaks is found at Photographer’s Point. The trail begins at Elkhart Park, located at the end of Fremont Lake Road. Continued bottom next page
CLIMBING
Enter the ramparts of the Gods
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he Tetons have drawn mountaineers to scale her peaks for well over 100 years. Photographs made by Henry Jackson in the 1800s seared this magnificent range into America’s consciousness. Early adventurers pioneered routes up these crags, some now named in their honor — William Owen, the Reverend Spalding, Glenn Exum, and Paul Petzoldt among them. Compelling today as ever before, these majestic spires still beckon valley visitors. Those who heed the call are enriched by the process of work, achievement, rest, and reflection. “The initial lure of climbing, and still the bottom line for many of us, is it allows us to be in a
Majestic peaks beckon passersby to climb toward the summits, to work, achieve, rest, and reflect.
Photos: Wade McKoy
lot of places that a lot of people don’t get to be,� said Jackson Hole Mountain Guides’ head man Rob Hess. This sense of privileged passage, revered in the lives of mountaineers, fuels the fires of dedication. Those who haven’t had a chance to let climbing into their lives on such an intimate level – yet – can especially benefit by hiring a guide. A smart move that helps keep the task’s many demands in perspective.
Climbers walk Wall Street on the Grand Teton.
“The initial adrenaline becomes euphoria when you’ve worked through a climb,� Hess said, “especially if you make it up something where you went through some fear.� A strong mindset gains traction better even than physical fitness. “For any discipline, you have to train your mind Hiking continued from previous page
Cody The heart of the Old West and eastern gateway town to Yellowstone, Cody’s charm is multifaceted. Both the Paul Stock Natural Trail and the Shoshone Riverway parallel the Shoshone River, offering a kid- and pet-friendly means to stretch your legs and perhaps sight waterfowl and wildlife. Inquire locally for directions. More advenrous is a hike/easy scramble to the top of Heart Mountain, located equidistant between Cody and
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and your body to work at a high level,� he said. “But physical strength alone doesn’t work, and doesn’t account for all that much if you don’t also have the necessary mental strength and fortitude.� Climbers like fun, too, but they need discipline. In climbing, many have found a discipline that transcends the sport. “When I’m up on a route, I’m completely in the moment,� Hess said. “I’m not thinking of anything else. All the distractions, the baggage of life, the various forms of stress, you’re leaving everything else behind, thinking fully on climbing what’s in front of you, focused on the right-then-andthere.� Hess said this total focus is cleansing. It’s freedom – and that there aren’t many things like that in life. Many guides look at the job as a way to give back to a lifestyle they love. “Fundamentally, mountain guides develop our own physical and mental selves,� said Hess. “And through guiding we give some of that back, that knowledge, that exuberance, and that enjoyment of the mountains, by helping others enjoy it.�
A guided student climber ascends the Grand Teton’s Golden Staircase on Exum Ridge, the Middle Teton Glacier in background.
Climb the Grand! Custom mountaineering trips in Tetons, Wind Rivers, Beartooths Learn to rock climb Kids and families welcome
— Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide
Powell off Hwy. 14. This geologic anomaly rises above the sage, its 8,123-foot summit offering a scenic peek into Big Horn Basin. Explore remnants of the Heart Mountain Camp at the conclusion of your outing. This WWII Japanese internment camp is a state historic site under consideration for national park status. Rebecca Woods has penned numerous highly regarded guidebooks to the Greater Yellowstone region, including Jackson Hole Hikes, Targhee Trails, and Beyond the Tetons.
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MOUNTAIN BIKING
Jackson Hole’s single track a biker’s Nirvana
The Cache-Game single tracks sometimes run along high ridges and give bikers big Wyoming views.
ention Cache Creek or Teton Pass to mountain bikers and watch them beam with admiration. That’s because miles of singletrack were designed and built by some of the best minds in Jackson Hole when it comes to mountain-bike aesthetics. A combined staff from the Bridger Teton National Forest and Friends of Pathways manned the trail crews and labored alongside volunteers from a wide range of institutions, including the Boy Scouts of America, the Freedom Riders, and even a work crew from the state penitentiary.
Greater Snow King Area Visitors to Jackson can ride the Greater Snow King Area from the hotel. Or drive to the Cache Creek trailhead, where numerous single tracks veer off in every direction. Large maps at trailhead kiosks not only look impressive, but they give bikers a bird’s eye view of bike trails that traverse the slopes above Cache Creek and travel far into the mountains. A variety of rides can be put together to suit all comers – families, cruisers, and hard-cores. A short, effective familiarization loop heads up Sidewalk as it traverses the flower-strewn hillside above Cache Creek itself, branches onto Wiggle and up the banked-turn switch-
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backs to Putt Putt, then rolls through the meadowlands high above the creek as it takes riders back to the trailhead. Easier still, ride Cache Creek’s mellowgrade dirt road as it climbs lazily up-canyon to the Gros Ventre Wilderness boundary (leave your bike at the boundary for a bikehike combo – no bikes allowed in the wilderness area!). Longer rides continue through sunny fields of wildflowers and aspens on the south-facing Putt Putt Trail extensions and among shadowy tall timber on the north-facing Hagen Trail. Climb Ferrin’s and connect with Game Creek for a 20-plus-mile loop back to town on the paved Von Gontard, Paul Merritt, and Russ Garaman pathways. Or climb up Game Creek and descend into Cache Creek for a long, mellow downhill ride back to town. Photos: Wade McKoy
M
Teton Village The new Jackson Hole Bike Park in Teton Village is all the rage among many mountain bikers this year. It’s a family-friendly experience, and one that any novice biker can enjoy. Ride up Teewinot chairlift with your bike and cruise down one of six different trails as-
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Good dirt single-track abounds in mountain country.
signed difficulty ratings similar to those of ski trails. Teton’s western slopes and a short Built by Gravity Logic, one of the world’s premier scenic drive through Teton Valley, mountain-bike park developers, this new site rep- Idaho, years ago established itself resents the finest in trail design and construction. as the first downhill mountain bike Table-top jumps allow novice riders to catch air destination in the Tetons through a and land safely even if they don’t make it all the variety of both rolling-cruiser and way to the landing. Banked-turn sections feel like lift-accessed downhill-specific trails. a roller coaster ride. The flow and rhythm keep At 8,000 feet, base-area cruisers inbikers coming back to the chairlift for another lap. clude Ricks Basin and Quakie The chairlift bike rack is easy to Ridge. Experts can use. Simply roll your bike into the take their downhill rack with no lifting, seat yourself in Volunteer dig days, mountain bike up the next chair, and the top lift atchairlift and held every Friday the tendant hands you your bike. This bomb down the system delivers lap after lap of from 8 a.m. to noon, jumps and berms on downhill mountain biking in a Rider, or ride are essential to trail Easy seamless, energy-saving fashion. their cross-country Check out the 12-hour endurance maintenance – and bike out to Mary’s race in August, the Red Bull Final Saddle and the fun too. Descent, where riders rack up laps Teton Vista Traverse. non-stop from early morning to Over a dozen douearly evening. ble-track and single-track bike trails The Jackson Hole Mountain Resort also main- give riders great views in the comtains seven miles of single-track that traverse the pany of wildflowers and aspens. lower mountain from Après Vous to the Hobacks. Five new trails and a Mountain Rolling and winding with the ski terrain, this route Bike Skills Park were added last was designed and built by year-round resort work- summer. Three trails are multi-use ers – skiers – and is a fun, short mountain bike tour. and two trails are specific to downExpert cyclists might choose to climb the rocky hill mountain biking. The Peaked Downhill-specific mountain-bike trails on Teton Pass, built and dirt road to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain Trail is for biking and hiking and it maintained by the Teton Freedom Riders. and ride the tram back down free of charge climbs 1,300 feet onto Peaked Downhill mountain bikers will love two of the (downhill riding is prohibited above the top of the Mountain, where big views of the Tetons await. Gondola). Pick up a map from any employee. The Lightning Ridge Loop is designated for bik- new trails that were built specifically for this exciting and growing sport. Features include enhanced ing, hiking, and horseback riding. Aptly named for Grand Targhee and Teton Valley Grand Targhee, high in mountains on the its high-altitude exposure, Lightning Ridge deliv- terrain berms, ladder sections, and jumps. Novice cyclists can Continued page 53 ers unobstructed views.
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Photos: Wade McKoy
PATHWAYS
Jackson Hole Community Pathways a national leader
Pathways in Grand Teton National Park now link with an extensive pathway system throughout Jackson Hole.
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ackson Hole Community Pathways are closing in on a stratospheric landmark this summer as work continues on a new pedestrian bridge that will cross the Snake River alongside WY Highway 22. Once completed, along with a new Highway 22 pathway, all Jackson Hole communities will be connected by a non-motorized travel option. “This link will fundamentally alter our community,” said Friends Of Pathways Executive Director Mike Welch. “Residents and visitors will be able to explore Jackson Hole without relying on their cars or RVs. Imagine people walking and biking around the valley, freed from their automobiles.” Nationally recognized by the League of American Bicyclists as a gold-level Bicycle Friendly Community, Jackson Hole’s notable pathway system grew out of nearly two decades of work by locals who formed the advocacy group Friends of Pathways and town officials. At the federal level, the late Wyoming U.S. Senator Craig Thomas’s efforts were essential. The National Park Service also became a valued partner. Veteran local cyclists happily note their unqualified appreciation for the current pathway system. “We are so lucky,” said Walt Berling, a resident cyclist since 1976 and a pathways representative to the county task force. “Wherever I travel, I look at pathway systems. Ours is one of the best, really well designed and interesting to ride.”
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And it covers a lot of ground. Bicyclists can now ride an auto-free asphalt lane from South Park to Jackson, all the way up to Moose, and then to Jenny Lake. Or from Wilson to Teton Village, and then up to Poker Flats (and, it’s hoped, one day on to Moose). Last summer another milestone pathway section in Grand Teton National Park, connecting the
“Wherever I travel, I look at pathway systems. Ours is one of the best, well designed and interesting to ride.” — Walt Berling Elk Refuge pathway (and Jackson) to Moose, opened for cyclists and all non-motorized users. “That was definitely a landmark,” noted Tim Young, former Friends of Pathways executive director. Communities throughout America are increasingly getting into the pathways frame of mind. By our count, there are now 238 Bicycle Friendly Communities (BFC) in all 50 states and another 59 Bicycle Friendly Universities in 27 states. The League of American Bicyclists website (www.bikeleague.org) sanctions the program and lists and profiles the BFC awardees. “Cities are choosing to invest in bicycling, even in these tough economic
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times, as a key element of places people want to live, work, and visit,” the League said. Teton County pathways program coordinator Brian Schilling reapplies every four years for the BFC designation, as do all the participating communities. Jackson and Teton County are among 16 gold-level communities. “We worked our way up from Silver, our inaugural designation in 2006 to Gold in 2008 and 2012,” he said. “As the construction of missing links occurs over the next few years we are also beginning to develop the other necessary elements that will enable us to reach for the platinum.” To reach that top level – only three places have it: Boulder, Colorado; Davis, California; Portland, Oregon – Jackson would begin to focus on outreach and education. “Those platinum communities do a lot more to help people shift modes away from driving a car to riding a bike,” said Schilling. “They do the outreach, walk people through it. Soon it becomes as simple as jumping in the car.” It’s not all about the bikes, though. Hundreds of people use pathways to walk, roller skate, exercise the dog, stroll with the baby, or recreate as families. Cross-country skiers even use pathways for roller skiing in summer. Berling, who for 25 years coached the Jackson Hole High School Nordic team, began using path-
ways for the team’s summer training program. “Willie Neal was a member of our team,” Berling said. “He was killed roller skiing in Maine on a quiet road. We don’t roller ski on the roads at all anymore. “Willie would be excited to see the progress on our pathway and trail system. He was the first high school ambassador on the county Pathways task force and was a section leader during the construction of the Phillips trail system by the Arrow Scouts (this Boy Scouts of America troop mobilized 650 scouts to work alongside Forest Service and Pathways trail crews and built 10 miles of singletrack mountain bike trail on Teton Pass in a mere five days).” Lots of kids take to the pathways, too, as another veteran cyclist, Wilson Jenny Lake, the northern end of the pathway — for now. resident Ellen Fales, has noticed. “Parents feel safe letting their kids go out on way-finding signs.” These bike lanes will connect bikes,” said Fales. “In the beginning, people the Garaman pathway to Snow King Avenue and thought it would devalue their property. But it be- the N89 Pathway that follows alongside the National Elk Refuge into Grant Teton National Park, came an asset, especially if they had kids.” a section recently dubbed the Wapiti Pathway. With functional systems completed in much of Jack Koehler, Friends of Pathways vice presiJackson Hole, the “missing links” are quickly disappearing. “We’re collaborating with Town of dent, recalls the 1970s conversation that got it all Jackson and Teton County to create a fully con- started. “At the first public meeting on pathways,” said nected system,” said FOP Communications ManKoehler, “the question was, ‘Why don’t we have a ager Lauren Smith. “The network through town better bicycling infrastructure?’ Now it seems will be fully marked with paint on the roads and
pathways are the heart and soul of Jackson Hole.” As with so many others who helped shepherd Jackson Hole’s alternative transportation movement, Koehler feels transformed by their success. “Pathways have become less and less about me as a cyclist,” he said, “and more about the community and how it can function. How people can move about and experience the outside world.” Mike Welch further distills the Friends of Pathways mission: “It’s about health and wellness and a connection to the environment,” he said. “When people choose to leave the car at home, and to walk, ride, or roll to work, to run errands, even to recreate, I think you’re creating a closer connection to your environment and to your community.” The last word, though, might belong to one of the county’s most colorful and recognized voices in cycling, Keith Benefiel, a pathways advocate since 1975. “We have a great start on the eventual linkage of the whole ‘Jellystone’ ecosystem. Alpine to Gardiner, Driggs to Dubois, and West Yellowstone to Cody,” he said. That grand vision could truly make the herds of summer vehicles a bit easier to bear while at the same time redefining the nation’s ‘park’ concept. — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide
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FISHING
Catching wild, native trout in majestic mountain surroundings
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by Scott Sanchez
he mesmerizing whisper of the river’s current. The graceful arc of a fly line as it travels through the air, silhouetted against a kaleidoscope of colorful wildflowers and vibrant green cottonwoods, framed by the purple/grey Tetons and deep azure sky. That breathtaking image mirrored at your feet on the water’s surface pleasantly interrupted by the vibrant golden form of a cutthroat trout encircled in its rise form. Fly fishing in Jackson Hole is the captivating combination of catching wild, native Snake River cutthroat in majestic mountain surroundings. And a fine a catch it is! The indigenous Snake River fine spotted cutthroat is gold in color, peppered with small The fine-spotted Snake River cutthroat trout black spots and accented by its signature crimson throat markings. Thanks in part to essence of fly fishing. The intimate encounter of evolution, it dominates the waters of the Snake trout and angler transcending their worlds to meet River system. Additionally, the population has at the water’s surface is magical. From casting an been protected and enhanced through special inch-long Chernobyl into the current of the Snake regulations, habitat restoration projects, and the to matching the hatch for large selective cutts on Snake River’s Wild and Scenic River Designation. Flat Creek, Jackson offers some of the best dry fly Snake River cutthroats average from six to fishing in the world. Overall, Snake River cutts are twelve inches, but mature fish up to 18 inches are aggressive surface feeders. This evolved survival not uncommon. My largest taped in at 27 inches. trait is needed to take advantage of a relatively short summer season and finite food sources. There are non-native fisheries that yield a larger average trout size, but none compare to Jackson’s These feeding habits at times make for less sooversized fishing experience, scenery, and tran- phisticated fishing, so an angler with basic skills quility. Regardless of their size, all wild native fish and a rudimentary fly selection has a good chance of fooling a fish. It might not always be a huge fish, are trophies. Plying waters with dry flies is considered the but the opportunities to catch numerous cutts and
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refine your angling skills are very high. Jackson Hole is one of the best places for a complete novice to land a sizeable trout on a dry fly. In general our streams aren’t hatch-specific but offer fish a variety of insects to feed on. Consequently, visible attractor patterns like Trudes, Stimulators, Chernobyl Ants, and my Convertible fish very well. They don’t imitate anything exactly, but look like many of their foods. The area around Jackson holds a variety of waters to fish, and the gamut includes streams, high mountain lakes, large valley lakes, mid-size rivers, and the sprawling majestic Snake River. Preference for adventure can be matched with options ranging from roadside angling to floating to day hikes to overnight backcountry adventures. Teton County is 97 percent Federal land, consisting mainly of Bridger Teton National Forest and Grand Teton National Park, so the options are almost unlimited. The anglers you are most likely to run into are eagles, ospreys and herons. Deer, elk, bison and moose are frequent companions, and you just might spot a bighorn sheep, bear, or wolf. You can experience this on your own or with the assistance of a local guide. June is spring in Jackson and is fairly limited for stream fishing since most waters are swollen with snowmelt. Better fishing options this time of year include area lakes, bordered by great terrain for early season hiking. Bradley, Taggart, Bearpaw, Phelps, and Trapper lakes in Teton Park are easy
Photos: Bob Woodall (top) Scott Sanchez (self; fish); Wade McKoy (cast, fish)
Fishing the Firehole River in Yellowstone includes other-worldly streamside features.
The intimate encounter of trout and angler transcending their worlds to meet at the water’s surface is magical.
A native cutthroat trout, fly in mouth, nearly landed, soon to be released.
July and can provide good dry fly fishing through mid October. Because of the large stoneflies that hatch during the summer and the importance of terrestrials in the trout’s diet, we can fish very large dry flies that are eagerly eaten by the trout and easy for the novice or us old guys to see. Initially, just after the rivers clear, your catch will be mostly small trout, but as August progresses, larger trout will move out of the tributaries post spawn. The Snake’s size can be intimidating, but much of it is braided with channels and Proper casting technique comes with practice. side channels of various hikes into fishable waters. sizes. This makes it easier to Phelps has trophy size cutwade-fish some sections of throats and lake trout, while the river, a bit like having a the others hold a mix of bunch of smaller streams. moderate size cutts and The best way to fish the brook trout. Bear spray, Snake, though, is with a though, is standard issue guide and from a drift boat. when backcountry fishing in This affords the most acJackson Hole. You don’t cess, and while you will fish need to be scared, but you from the boat, a good part of should be bear aware. the day also can be spent Around the end of June, wade fishing areas that the Snake tributaries like the non-boat angler can’t acHoback, Greys, and Gros cess. This is the best option Ventre rivers start to clear. for trout quality and quantity. This coincides with the huge September is prime seaSalmonfly hatch on the son on the Snake River and I Hoback, and good quantities might call this a perfect of caddis and small stoneplace and perfect time. Trout flies bring trout to the surface feed on Hecuba, blue wing of all three rivers. All three olive, and mahogany mayfly drainages offer camping, hatches as they fatten up for hiking, backpacking, and cywinter, and the fall colors cling options and all have against the deep blue sky Scott Sanchez in his element. fishable tributaries and lakes. are the icing on the cake. This combination of waters offers over a hundred The larger cutts group up as they move towards public accessible miles of fishing. The Gros Ventre winter habitat, and when you find them, you can is eight miles north of Jackson, the Hoback 13 spend considerable time casting to good-size rismiles south of town, and the Greys enters the ing fish. With about 90 miles of water between Snake about 40 miles south of Jackson. Fishing Jackson Lake Dam and the mouth of Palisades will be good through mid September. Reservoir and many public access points, you can The Snake River clears around the middle of find your own section of the Snake. w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
The sunset reflection of the Tetons in the water as you release a trout back to its home is unbeatable, and the memory is an open invitation back to that spot and place in time. Scott Sanchez, fly tying columnist for American Angler magazine, has contributed photos and articles to fly fishing magazines worldwide. His three books: Introduction to Salt Water Fly Tying, A New Generation of Trout Flies, and A Never Ending Stream can be found in area fly shops. The Federation of Fly Fishers awarded him the Arnold Gingrich Lifetime Achievement Award for literary accomplishments and the Buz Busek Fly Tying Award.
The Complete Resource For All of Your Fly Fishing Needs in Jackson Hole.
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Fly Fishing Dreams are Fulfilled
at www.westbank.com Across from the Aspens On the Teton Village Road
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G
et the front seat if you can. That’s the first advice, that’s where the action is. Rafting in the Greater Yellowstone region is not only recommended, it’s practically required. The area is so packed with burly whitewater and peaceful flat water that to return home without getting on the river is like taking a trip to Hawaii and never going to the beach.
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Scenic Float Trips Sometimes all you may want is unhurried silence, so a float through Grand Teton National Park provides the perfect answer for a quiet, lazy afternoon. The scenic upper section of the Snake is much different than its whitewater counterpart. The water is much calmer, though still fast-moving, and the river is braided with side channels. The shoreline varies greatly along these sections of river, as dense forests of spruce and lodgepole pine give way to the deciduous stands of cottonwoods and aspen, where beavers like to make their home. All the animal species of Jackson Hole use this river-bottom habitat at one time or another. Rafters frequently The Tetons, framed with dense forests of spruce and lodgepole spy moose, elk, deer, bison, prong- pine, hallmarks of scenic float trips. horn antelope, eagle, osprey, duck, than the car you’ve been driving in. As you grip river otter, muskrat, and fine-spotted Snake River the paddle and peer out over the river, carrying the cutthroat trout. Occasionally a black or grizzly collective weight of a long winter, you understand bear makes an appearance, sometimes even a why this is still considered an adventure. Time on wolf. the water is time well spent. Scenic floats allow for more of an interpretive Learn to enjoy that twinge in your gut as you trip for passengers, the raft’s pilot often shedding round a bend and hear a roar like the sound of light on the valley’s history, its fur trappers, westocean waves breaking on the beach. If you’re ern heritage, and geography. nervous – good, that’s the idea. The anxiety will Designated a National Wild and Scenic River, soon be replaced by exuberance after you’ve special sections of the Snake receive federal propounded through some beefy waves and come tection, including stretches running through the through upright and alive. canyon and Grand Teton National Park and There is a golden moment, just as you enter the through confluences with a dozen of its tributaries. smooth, slick tongue of a big rapid, when time The sensitive regulations should help the ecosysstands still and the world is quiet despite the tem remain healthy and vibrant, ensuring that fuchaos around you. These are the moments on a ture generations may also enjoy this remarkable river trip that create memories you’ll take home river. (see snakeriverfund.org) with you. Whitewate Float Trips Call early, though, especially during those hot The eight-mile whitewater stretch of the Snake summer afternoons when everybody is looking for River just below Jackson Hole may offer the finest a splash in the face. one-day introduction to rapids in the country. — Tom Bie and Grand Teton & Yellowstone As you load up to begin your trip, something Adventure Guide staff writers changes. You realize just how different a raft feels
10 mile float trips inside GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK
www.solitudefloattrips.com Authorized concessioner of Grand Teton National Park
Whitewater rafters experience the exhilaration of pounding through beefy waves.
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Photos, both pages: Bob Woodall; Morgan Colonel (scenic raft)
RIVER RAFTING
Scenic and whitewater float trips top adventures
Majestic Jenny Lake beckons
Bob Woodall
SCENIC CRUISES
Jenny Lake at the mouth of Cascade Canyon is a deep, glacial body of water formed roughly 12,000 years ago.
N
by Mike Calabrese
o surprise that this part of the Rockies piles up the snowfall during long, sometimes epic, winters. But that deep white blanket yields quite another treasure come summer: water – lots of it, perfectly clear and startlingly cold. Some of it is held jewel-like right beneath the Tetons in Jenny Lake, one of Grand Teton National Park’s most beloved features. And a scenic boat cruise with park concessioner Jenny Lake Boating affords visitors a unique way to ply those limpid waters and appreciate the Tetons’ splendor. This outfit knows its way around the lake, too. These are the same local folks who expertly shuttle boatloads of sightseers between the dock and Jenny Lake’s prized west side, where Cascade Canyon trailhead begins. The trailhead leads passengers to two of the more revered park attractions, Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point. Thousands of park visitors make this pilgrimage every summer, some on foot around the lake’s southern shore, many by way of the shuttle boat. Sometimes that picture-perfect but brief lake traverse leaves passengers wishing for more. So a longer, more leisurely scenic cruise around this beautiful body of water might be just the ticket. A Jenny Lake Boating cruise offers an alternative way to view the Teton landscape and some of its flora and fauna. And a longer tour on the lake, a glacial body formed roughly 12,000 years ago, enables expansive views of the massive Tetons, their canyons, and alpine landscape.
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Held jewel-like right beneath the Tetons is Jenny Lake, one of Grand Teton National Park’s most beloved features. Boat pilots and guides reveal the area’s history and geology during the hour-long scenic cruises where passengers can really put still and video cameras to good use. Scenic cruises run from June 16 through September 30. Adults are charged $15 and children ages 2-11, $7. The aluminum vessels hold up to
44 passengers and can be rented for private events like family reunions, wedding parties, or corporate gatherings. The daily shuttles over to the Cascade Canyon trailhead run every 15-20 minutes. Adults can make the roundtrip for $10, $7 if only one way; kids ride for $5 regardless. For the independent watercraft pilots out there, Jenny Lake Boating also rents kayaks and canoes. Online at www.jennylakeboating.com. Mike Calabrese is a staff writer and copy editor for Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide.
Scenic cruises on Jenny Lake throughout the day
• Magnificent Teton views • Shuttle service to Hidden Falls & Cascade Canyon • Handicapped accessible boats • Canoe & kayak rentals
www.jennylakeboating.com
307-734-9227 Authorized concessioner of Grand Teton National Park
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Ancient Hawaiian sport embraced in the Rockies
STAND UP PADDLE BOARDING
Photos: Jonathan Selkowitz (2); Wade McKoy (river)
After learning how to propel the board in a straight line, rookies quickly find themselves ferrying across the currents or touring the lakeshores.
Flat-water paddling on a glassy-calm Spalding Bay in Jackson Lake
I
t’s a strange sight at first. Perhaps not what you skiers in winter, embraced the new sport with relexpected to see in the Tetons. Someone standing ish. And the skiers adapted quickly. “Everybody was figuring it out in different on the water, in the lake, paddling a big surfboard. It gets even stranger down by the river. Hel- ways,” said Pruzan. “We didn’t have a book, just trial and error. A lot of us hadn’t done anything tometed and wearing wetsuits, these paddle surfers tally new for a long, long time. So the river standride the waves and eddies like kayakers who’ve up thing gave us a huge opportunity in that regard. decided to walk on water. But it’s for real and it’s here to stay. Stand up It was pure amusement.” Utilizing their multi-sport experience in balpaddle boarding, also called SUP, is the fastest growing water sport in the world. Over the past ance, edge control, and river features, they few years, activity has migrated from coastal cul- learned quickly. “Our first year we fell through all the rapids,” tures – ultimately from its ancient Hawaiian roots said Pruzan. “Now we fall – and found its way into the Rocky only periodically. We’re Mountains. carving hard eddy turns As it turns out, the Snake River’s and surfing sizable river many and varied water features create waves. It’s so much fun.” a first-rate playground for stand up Jackson Hole vacapaddle boarders. From its flat water tioners interested in SUP and small riffles, eddies and waves, to are in luck. Pruzan, who its bigger and more powerful white owns Rendezvous River water, the Snake delivers the goods to Sports and rents SUP all levels of SUP recreationists. gear, also offers lessons “All the sections of the Snake are on the Snake’s calmer awesome, from the dam to the Palstretches near Hoback isades,” said Aaron Pruzan, who, along Junction. A good mix of with several fellow kayakers and skiers, flat water, small waves, pioneered SUP river use in Jackson and eddies make it the Hole in 2008. perfect outdoor classPruzan continued, “At low water, room. when as kayakers we had no interest, “People learn very with SUP we found an incredible playquickly,” said Pruzan. “I ground with hundreds of features that String Lake, shallow, warmer we’d never considered before. Smaller teach paddling technique, water lends itself to the speed and edging of these how to establish momentum with the board, and boards, as opposed to the modern kayak that’s the correct balance position for paddling through designed for big, powerful features.” small waves. Learning to edge the board comes Pruzan and a Jackson Hole crew of Tommy next. You just press your foot down. And if you fall Moe, Ian MacKay, John Souter, Will Taggart, Bill off, it’s easy to climb back on.” Dyer, and Dave “The Wave” Muccino, all full-time Of course, the locals have lots of practice
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Small rapids and eddies meld with the speed and edging of stand up paddle boards.
falling into the water. And even as advanced practitioners, parting from the SUP is pretty common. “We still fall in a lot,” said local SUP enthusiast Bill Dyer. “We’re always trying new things, and when you do that you often fall.” After learning how to propel the board in a straight line, rookies quickly find themselves ferrying across the currents or touring the lakeshores. Some SUP enthusiasts, like local skier-turnedwaterman Ward Blanch, even prefer paddling on lakes. “For me,” said Blanch, “it’s all about long tours on Jackson Lake, going forever along the shore and out into the open water. You can cover some miles. And you get such a great, full-body workout.” Not to mention startling views into the water from the elevated perspective that SUP provides (wear polarized glasses and you’ll likely pick out some fish). So the next time you drive by Jackson Lake or the Snake River and spot people seemingly walking on water, imagine how exhilarating it must feel! Consider giving it a try. You just might see for yourself why SUP has grown from its humble, beach-boy origins into the biggest thing since hula-hoops. — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide
Don’t Spread Aquatic Nuisance Species
Wade McKoy
BOATING ACCESS
Windsurfers love Slide Lake on a windy afternoon.
Yellowstone National Park In Yellowstone National Park, motorboats, canoes, rowboats, kayaks, sailboats, and windsurfers are allowed on Yellowstone and Lewis lakes, but only paddle boats on Shoshone Lake. Leave the jet skis home! Listen up: A permit is required for all vessels on these lakes—including float tubes. All other rivers and lakes are closed to boaters. Life preservers and permits are required (even for float tubes). Boats can be rented at Bridge Bay Marina. Get the scoop first by Googling boating in Yellowstone. Or call (307) 344-7381 for an automated information line.
West of Yellowstone West of the park, the Madison River provides whitewater from just below Ennis Reservoir through Bear Trap Canyon and idyllic (although there’s nothing idyllic about the Bear Trap section) floating to its confluence with the Missouri River. Info: (406) 683-3900.
Green River & Pinedale Area The Green River between Pinedale and Big Piney is primarily utilized for fishing. For information, go to www.blm.gov/wy and pull up a cool map of every BLM field office and district in the state. Just point and click. The short story: Fremont (scads of opportunities and amenities here) and Half Moon lakes, near Pinedale, allow paddle craft and power and sailboats; and Green River Lakes, north of Cora, allow paddle craft only. Boatloads of info at www.visitpinedale.org. Or call the Pinedale BLM field office: 307-367-5300.
Cody & the North Fork In Cody, river runners can catch Class III rapids on the North Fork of the Shoshone River from Yellowstone Park to the reservoir, or combine placid water with Class IV rapids on the main Shoshone from the reservoir to just past town. River info: www.blm.gov/wy is the place to start. For hiking and camping info go to www.fs.fed.us/r2/shoshone/districts/windriver.htm or call (307) 527-6241. Water skiing, fishing, and windsurfing are enjoyed on the Buffalo Bill Reservoir, west of Cody. Info: (307) 587-6076 or online at www.bbdvc.com. w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
Grand Teton National Park Boating is restricted to non-motorized craft, except on Jackson and Jenny lakes, where motorboats (10 hp or less on Jenny Lake) are allowed. Again, leave the jet skis home! Launches along the Snake River access a variety of waters, some dangerous, all beautiful. Life preservers and boat permits are required, and rangers patrol very effectively for enforcement. Info: (307) 739-3399. Canoes, pontoon boats, and small powerboats can be rented at Signal Mountain or Colter Bay marinas on Jackson Lake. Boaters will have to register their craft at the Moose Visitors’ Center, where more information is available in one of the country’s newest and coolest visitors’ centers. Naturally, a host of floating, fishing, kayaking, canoeing, sailboating, and scenic concessionaires operate by permit within the park, all researched by going online at www.nps.gov/grte.
Racing across the wild natural resources of North America, a horrifying invasion of aquatic nuisance and invasive species is creating environmental destruction. Rapidly growing aquarium weeds thoughtlessly discarded into local waterways—as well as dozens of exotic shellfish, snail, and fish species that have arrived and have been poured mostly into the Great Lakes as foreign shipping ballast—are choking out native species. Recreational boaters, hikers, canoeists, kayakers, hunters, rafters, and campers can unknowingly pick up and relocate everything from the tiny New Zealand mud snail, zebra and quagga mussels to strands of Eurasian milfoil, hydrilla and water hyacinth aquatic grasses and hundreds of other invasives. A growing number of western states are now moving ahead quickly with programs in education, prevention, and legal prohibition dealing with these deadly aquatic nuisance species. Idaho and Wyoming are the latest entrants and join Arizona, Utah, Colorado, and Montana. Before launching any watercraft, clean, inspect, and dry equipment that is wet from previous trips. Scrub wading boots, Aqua Sox, and wader gear. Put watercraft, trailers, ropes, and anchors through approved hot-water power washes. Check each planned travel state for its requirements. Internet web sites for state game and fish departments have the latest information to stop aquatic invasives. For more info on Wyoming regulations: www. gf.state. wy.us/ fish/AIS/ Decal. — Paul Bruun
Bridger-Teton National Forest Class III and IV whitewater on the Snake River begins at West Table and runs eight miles through the Snake River Canyon. Self-registration, while not required, is available at West Table. This section is crowded and dangerous at times. Check regulations and abilities before setting out, especially on this section of the Snake. Permits are required. Scenic float waters that also hold sport fish include the South Fork of the Snake. On the Web: www.snakeriverfund.org. Info: (307) 734-6773. Other rivers in the area offer everything from serene scenery to challenging rapids. On the Web: www.fs.fed.us/r4/btnf. Everything you wanted to know about recreating on regional and national federal land. Or call (307) 739-5500 for information on running the Buffalo Fork, Gros Ventre, Hoback, or Greys rivers. Other lakes in the area: Slide Lake, east of Jackson (windsurfing, sailboats, paddle craft); Palisades Reservoir at Alpine Junction (power and sailboats). — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide
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Touring Wyoming’s Alpine Lakes
Photos: Wade McKoy
SEA KAYAKING
The sometimes-mirrorlike waters of String Lake — one of the many joys that await paddlers. (Wind often strikes in the afternoon, making whitecaps)
S
Restricted to paddle craft ea kayaking the still-pure alpine only, the waters of Shoshone lakes of Yellowstone and Jackson Lake ensure a singular peace Hole promises an unusual mix of tranand quiet. Other lakes, beauquility and excitement. And the optiful as they are, host a variportunity to spot native trout, majestic ety of craft and may yield a birds of prey, and perhaps even the less isolated experience with likes of bears or wolves is driving a nature. growing contingent of avid paddlers Jackson Lake is one to board these sleek high-tech such place, although the kayaks. stunning Teton landscape “You could go anywhere: Baja, easily overshadows any disMaine, the San Juan Islands, Alaska – tracting company. Forty our lake kayaking experiences are just square miles and numerous as good,” said Aaron Pruzan of Renput-ins provide a variety of dezvous River Sports, a complete day-trip options. paddle sports store and kayak tour Those prepared to camp company. can choose from among a One classic trip, for example, leads dozen backcountry camppaddlers into the remote Shoshone sites. But hiring an experiLake in Yellowstone National Park. enced outfitter almost The three-day excursion launches guarantees a memorable from Lewis Lake boat ramp. Paddlers Boating enthusiasts can find quiet solitude paddling sea kayaks on regional waexperience, as proven by follow the shoreline’s fields, forests, ters like Grand Teton National Park’s Leigh Lake. OARS kayak tour company. and hot pools to the inlet. After naviOARS client Amanda Arnold’s posts are typical: “To camp on an island gating a few miles of small river channel, boaters glide into Shoshone Lake. “There are no motorboats once you leave Lewis Lake,” said Pruzan. “The right under the Tetons was just wonderful! We loved traveling into the backremoteness, the quiet, the hiking in Shoshone Geyser Basin – it’s sublime, country with guides who knew what they were doing. It was nice that everything was planned for us, where we would camp, what we would eat.” subtle.”
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OVERNIGHT KAYAK TOURS ON JACKSON LAKE “I would trade a dozen nights in a 4-star hotel for one more night on Jackson Lake.”
Floating from Jackson Lake Dam to Pacific Creek on the Snake River, with a side trip into Oxbow Bend, makes for a fine afternoon of paddling with only a short shuttle from take-out to put-in.
waited it out for 20 minutes, all bundled up. Then The Tetons remain just as impressive in the the weather broke and it became sunny and calm. rear-view mirror, however, for paddlers who head Everything dried and it was beautiful. That’s the to Yellowstone to traverse the biggest lake of them nature of thunderstorms up there.” all. With shorelines so remote, and wildlife so The Jekyll-to-Hyde transformation of a body of complete, many outdoor enthusiasts consider the water under strong winds can be both frightening region the center of the recreational universe. and exhilarating. But the boats are designed to Yellowstone Lake, a scenic two-hour drive handle wind and rough water, and in the hands of from Jackson, is raw wilderness. At 7,732 feet above sea level, Yellowstone Lake rests a thou- the willing and skilled it can be an adrenaline-fueled success. sand feet higher than Jackson Lake and claims “How big the waves can get is pretty impresthree times the acreage, its 136 square miles lapsive,” said Pruzan. “Being in ping against 110 miles of The Tetons remain just as a 20-foot tandem sea kayak shoreline. Boaters can and to have the waves pick probe these waters safely impressive in the rear-view up the whole bow. Doing along the shores of West Thumb. mirror for paddlers who head surf-style launches on those windward beaches. It’s ex“It’s a great one-night if people want to get in the to Yellowstone to traverse the citing.” The sheer sporting nabackcountry a little ways,” biggest lake of them all. ture of sea kayaking aside, said Pruzan. “We go along the landscape’s the thing. the south shore of West Yellowstone’s and Jackson Hole’s wildness and Thumb, through The Narrows, and around Breeze purity are equally prized among sea kayakers. Point to a really nice campsite. Not many power “We’ve seen elk and moose swimming, that’s boats in that zone.” Again, the absence of motorized craft adds to pretty cool,” said Pruzan. “And fleets of pelicans flying in formation at one of the world’s largest pelthe venture’s sublimity. ican breeding grounds, that’s an amazing sight in “In two days we can access Flat Mountain the sky. And, of course, watching the Minute Man Arm,” Pruzan continued. “It’s really pretty, with amazing views of the Absaroka Range, the Trident geyser go off.” The end of the Southeast Arm of Yellowstone Peaks, Stephenson and Dome.” Lake is about as far away from people as you can A full circumnavigation of Yellowstone Lake’s roadless shoreline, from Sedge Creek Bay to West get in the Lower 48. “In the heart of August, the peak of the busiest Thumb, takes five to seven days. The five-day verseason, you get down there and you don’t see sion involves cutting across the imposing open anybody,” noted Pruzan. “Not a single other perwater of the South Arm. A guide can help. “It’s a pretty significant crossing,” said Pruzan. son the whole time. Pretty amazing.” For those with less time, OARS offers half-day “At The Promontory we assess the weather. If guided kayak tours on Yellowstone Lake. there are impending thunderstorms we don’t do Experienced boaters may go it alone but must that crossing.” Early mornings are less risky, as with all cross- obtain permits for boats and backcountry campings on the lake. But even the best-laid plans sites in Yellowstone at the South Entrance. Or inquire at other entrances for the nearest permitting sometimes get scattered by Mother Nature. “I was guiding a family trip with four moms and station. Permits for Jackson Lake can be obtained four kids last August,” said Pruzan. “We launched at Grand Teton National Park’s visitor center in Moose. early but a thunderstorm came out of nowhere. We got back to shore in a sheltered area and — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
Best way to see the Tetons and a great value! • Friday & Sunday departures • 1 or 2 nights catered camping (tents provided) on an idyllic island camp • All kayaking gear included • Expert guides & delicious meals provided • Ideal for all ages 4+ • Limited to 12 people/trip! •
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Western family fun
Photos: Bob Woodall / Triangle C Ranch
HORSEBACK RIDING
Ranch-family life sometimes happily blurs the line between work and play.
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here’s west, and there’s The West. Not a direction, mind you, but a place steeped in history and cowboy lore. Images of it flow into your mind like a flash flood in a Western movie. Gunfights at high noon, wagon trains stretched across the high plains, John Wayne hunting down the bad guys, and the cowboy astride his horse, riding into the sunset. Well, here you are in the West, so why not connect with the lore of the past by throwing your leg over the back of a trusty steed and heading for the hills. Although loping off into the horizon may not be on your agenda, finding a horse to mount and ride couldn’t be easier. No matter where the Western visitor travels, trail rides are available. And there are many ways to indulge that wanderlust. The simplest is a two-hour ride. If that leaves you hanker-
Dudes are pampered in a rustic setting with a full plate of activities, including daily trail rides, cookouts, campfires, Western sing-alongs, and rodeos. ing for more, consider half-day or full-day rides. For the ultimate Western experience, though, sign on for an overnight or multi-day pack trip. The ultimate cowboy-up experience? How about a full week at a dude ranch! “You’re in Wyoming,” said outfitter Shane Scott of Jackson Hole Trail Rides. “You can’t not get on a horse when in Wyoming” Amble over to Snow King Mountain where the trail ascends the mountain and the entire Jackson Hole Valley is spread out below. And “we have great gentle horses,” Scott added. “It is good Western family fun,” said Laura Child of the A-OK Corral. “Jackson Hole is known for its cowboy and mountain man heritage and that is the way they saw it, so by going on a horseback ride you can step back in time and see it like they would have.” Never been on a horse? “Not a problem,” said Marilyn Dahle of Teton Village Trail Rides. “Seventy-five percent of our riders have never been on a horse; it’s fun to take inexperienced people and see the big smiles on their faces and the satisfaction when they learn to ride. The thrill of just being on the back of a horse,” she said, “is part of the Western adventure that people are after.”
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A horseback ride amidst alpine splendor
“Agreed,” noted the late Cameron Garnick of the Triangle C Dude Ranch. But that’s not all. “You can see much more,” he pointed out, “because you are not having to watch the trail. You can look around at the 360-degree view, enjoy the smell of the sage, the sounds of the forest, listen to streams, and drink in the landscape—and physical limitations can be overcome.” Traveling at 4-5 miles an hour, horses can cover lots of territory, and in a short time riders can be deep into the mountains. Plus, “you are doing it the way it was done by Indians, mountain men, and cowboys,” said Garnick. Now that you’re longing to hit the trail, what’s next? Well, dress the part. You don’t need to go out and dude yourself up in full cowboy regalia, but a few items will make the ride more enjoyable. Cowboy boots are best, although any closed-toed shoes are fine. Sandals are not
Pack trips take riders deep into the wilderness.
out. Campfire cookouts come complete with a singing cowboy serenading diners and campers by a fire under the star-filled sky. If a couple days in the saddle have not reined in your desire for an Old West vacation, consider a stay at a dude ranch, the ultimate Western experience. In the 1880s the term “dude” was applied to dressed-up city slickers, especially to Easterners vacationing in the West and who affected elaborate “Wild West” getups as paying visitors at a “dude ranch.” While some places call themselves “guest” ranches nowadays, seek out ones that have not dropped the “dude” from their name: those will be the ranches offering the most authentic experience. A proper dude ranch regales its guests with the romance of the West for a full week. Dudes are pampered in a rustic setting with a full plate of activities, including daily trail rides, cookouts, campfires, Western sing-alongs, and rodeos. Ranches tailor their weeks for singles, couples, families, and groups. You’re smack dab in the middle of The West, so take advantage of it! Whether it’s for two hours or a whole week. Saddle up—and happy trails to you!
Saddling up in the corral for a ride
recommended. Long pants and a hat are advisable, and because the weather can change rapidly here in the real West, bring a raincoat. Also on the short list are insect repellant, sunscreen, sunglasses, water bottle, camera, and binoculars. Next, decide how much time you really have for spending in the saddle. Like most outfitters, the AOK Corral, Teton Village Trail Rides, and Scott’s Jackson Hole Trail Rides offer a variety of options, ranging from one hour to all-day rides. If that’s not enough, they also offer overnight and three- and six-day pack trips, as well as fishing trips to the Yellowstone River and the Gros Ventre Mountains. In Teton Village hop on a horse or covered wagon and ride off to a chuckwagon dinner cook-
— Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide
Scott’s Jackson Hole Trail Rides On Snow King Mountain
Take in the fabulous views from the back of a horse!
• Hourly trail rides - Beautiful views • Located at 330 E. Snow King Ave. • Only riding stable in town - within walking distance of the Town Square • June thru September • Riding lessons by appointment • Fall hunting horses available • Long & short term horse leases available
307-733-6992 www.jhtrailrides.com w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
HORSEBACK TRAIL RIDES Cowboy fun for the entire family! We offer rides for... 1 hr • 2 hr • 1/2 day • All day Over night pack trips. Only 15 minutes south of Jackson
307-733-6556
www.horsecreekranch.com aok@wyoming.com Permitted by BTNF Equal Opportunity Service Provider
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SHOOTING by Joseph Piccoli
ou don’t have to love guns to have a good time at the Jackson Hole Shooting Experience. In fact, co-owner Shepard Humphries said, even people who don’t like guns end up having a good time at the Shooting Experience. “Many people think they don’t like guns when they come to us,” Humphries said. “Sometimes they even say they are anti-gun. Most of our guests are new to shooting, with many touching a firearm for the first time with us. But because they’re with a group or because they’re ‘Out West’ they decide to try it anyway.” When this sort of person finishes a JH Shooting Experience course, he said, “almost 100 percent say they would do it again.” One reason for this may be that Humphries regards his patrons as guests, not merely clients or customers. Then there is the fact that he doesn’t consider the shotguns, rifles, and pistols his guests use to be weapons. That might sound like spin to some but Humphries knows weapons—he spent 10 years with the Jackson Police Department, including time on the department’s SWAT team and as a SWAT sniper. Instead, he views the guns his guests use to Shotgun wedding anyone? be the equivalent of skis, golf clubs, or fishing poles. They are, he says, the tackle of “luxury en- ment of rifles. These can vary widely, from a classic Marlin Lever-Action .357, a gun that a Jackson tertainment shooting.” And the Jackson Hole Hole cowhand of old might have carried, to the inShooting Experience has a very large tackle box. famous AK-47, probably the most recognizable “We have over 50 different types of gun and our gun on the planet. selection is always growing,” Humphries said. The Multi-Gun Pistol Experience offers much If that sounds like a lot, it is. But the JH Shootthe same, simply eliminating the rifles and adding ing Experience’s most popular offering, the Multimore handguns to the mix. Guests still get plenty Gun Rifle & Pistol Experience, lets guests use of guidance about shooting fundamentals and many of them in just a single three-hour session. they still shoot several hundred .22 caliber The Multi-Gun Rifle & Pistol Experience starts with a safety briefing and basic shooting instruc- rounds, along with several dozen rounds of larger-caliber ammo. tion, and guests start shooting Shepard notes his other The Multi-Gun Rifle & within 15 minutes. “We cusprograms of instruction intomize the (program) based on Pistol Experience starts clude defensive pistol and each shooter’s level of experience, the number of shooters in with a safety briefing and personal protection courses, shotgun sports instruction, the party and their goals and desires” Humphries explained. basic shooting instruction, and National Rifle Association “The first hour and a half or so and guests start shooting and concealed-weapon permit classes. But the bulk of will focus on shooting fundahis business is in the multiwithin 15 minutes. mentals in a safe, educational gun programs, which he said and fun style, Humphries said. are offered by only a very small handful of similar “Following your safety briefing we will fit you with ear and eye protection. We then provide businesses. “There are thousands of places hands-on instruction in grip, stance, sight align- around the world to shoot shotguns; however, our business is a pioneer and remains the internament, and sight picture—and then you’ll jump tional leader in luxury entertainment shooting exright into shooting,” he added. periences with rifles and pistols,” he said. While Humphries emphasizes instruction— So where did the idea for the JH Shooting Exteaching newbies how to shoot and helping more perience model come from? experienced shooters improve accuracy—his goal “A friend retired here in Jackson,” Humphries is to get all guests comfortable with firearms and what they can do with them. Guests shoot up to explained. “He had inherited some guns from his 300 rounds using a variety of .22 caliber rimfire ri- father, but he didn’t know how to use them and fles and handguns which have little recoil and are he asked me to show him the basics. He was the one who said I should make a business out of easy on the body. And that’s just for starters. During the second half of the rifle and handgun teaching people to shoot.” One thing you can’t get at the Jackson Hole program, guests move on to larger-caliber guns. Each shooter gets three to five rounds with many Shooting Experience is a single gun and a couple different firearms, including two or three different of boxes of ammunition. “A lot of people ask us 9mm semi-automatic pistols, two or three .45 cal- why they can’t just come out and shoot for half an iber ACP semi-automatic pistols, and an assort- hour,” Humphries said. “What we specialize in are
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Photos Courtesy Jackson Hole Shooting Experience
Y
Learn a pioneer skill from a pro
Youngsters can also enjoy sport shooting.
private, personalized interactions. We are proud to be known for quality rather than for being cheap. I mention that because we can’t maintain good student/instructor ratios and keep a large selection of guns on hand … if we just rent guns and sell boxes of ammo.” It seems to be working. The TripAdvisor travel website recently ranked the Shooting Experience third on a list of things to do in Jackson. Of 95 reviews posted on the site, all rated the Shooting Experience “excellent” and a typical comment read as follows: “I have been going to Jackson Hole for over 20 years and this was one of the best days I have ever had there. Shepard was ultra-professional and safety conscious while still keeping it fun for our group.” For more info log on to: www.ShootInJH.com or call 307-690-7921. Joseph Piccoli is a writer and editor living in Jackson Hole.
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MOUNTAIN BIKING ease into trail riding on the new 1.5-mile beginner trail from the Teewinot Lodge to the horse stables. And cyclists of all levels will enjoy the new Mountain Bike Skills Park as they practice and improve their riding technique on a variety of routes and features located near the base of the Dreamcatcher lift. For updates on Trail Volunteer Days, special events, and bike camps, visit www.grandtarghee.com. Pick up a map at the activity center. Back down the hill in Teton Valley, bicycle enthusiasts will find an excellent single track on the Aspen Trail in the Teton foothills above Driggs. A fantastic trail network is maintained in the Big Hole mountains to the west. Ride a loop from Victor south into Pole Canyon or head north on a paved pathway to Driggs. Good maps and info at www.tvtap.org.
Wilson Cyclists can ride from downtown Wilson up the paved Old Pass Road (non-motorized vehicles only, 2,000-plus-foot climb) to the top of 8,416-foot Teton Pass. Downhill specialists often drive up the pass to the Phillips Canyon trailhead to access Jimmy’s Mom, a super fun
Bikers must yield to all other users on forest trails. Expect to see hikers and horse riders on many of these routes. Cyclists riding downhill should yield to cyclists riding up. and tech-y downhill-only trail. Either way, the ride options in the Teton Pass Area are many, with the Arrow Trail, Sno-Tel, Phillips Ridge, and Phillips Canyon trails in the mix. The trailhead at the top of the pass accesses loop possibilities with the Black Canyon trail, and Lithium – another downhill-only route. Or head west to Mail Cabin Creek or Idaho’s Mike Harris trailhead.
Etiquette Bikers must yield to all other users on forest trails. Expect to see hikers and horse riders on many of these routes. Cyclists riding downhill should yield to cyclists riding up. No trail user should be deaf. It’s dumb––and dangerous. Turn down those tunes so you can still hear other people coming‌and the lions, moose, and bears that, rest assured, are out there, too. Ride open trails only. Respect wilderness and national park closures and private property. Give wildlife a wide berth. When cycling on the paved pathway system, please alert others when approaching from behind and pass them respectfully and safely.
Maps Free maps at friendsofpathways.org/resources, a local nonprofit advocacy group, are also available at bike and outdoor shops, along with several good local guidebooks. Volunteer trail-crew workdays are posted at Friends of Pathways on Facebook.
Trail Crew As noted, these amazing trails are the result of a partnership between the Bridger-Teton National Forest and Friends of Pathways, and a variety of service organizations. But there’s more to be done. And for those interested in gaining some sweat equity, volunteer dig days are held every Friday from 8 a.m. to noon. These work parties are essential to trail maintenance – and fun too – as they bring a lot of different people together. The Teton Freedom Riders, a dedicated group of local mountain bikers, have played a critical role in designing and building the downhill-specific mountain bike trails in the Teton Pass Area. They continue to log thousands of hours each summer buffing out those bike trails. Check out their unique story at tetonfreedomriders.org. Teton Freedom Riders host volunteer dig days once month. Happy trails! — Grand Teton & Yellowstone Adventure Guide
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dining Restaurant guide jhdiningguide.com smartphone-compatible website Focus Productions, Inc. 307-733-6995 focusjh@focusproductions.com • facebook.com/jhdiningguide Search Restaurants by: • Cuisine • Meals • Price Range • Make Reservations • View Menus • Maps • Recipes • News • Blogs • Videos
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R ECREATION G UIDE GRAND TARGHEE RESORT 18-hole disk golf course. 1-800-TARGHEE pg 25 JACKSON HOLE BUNGEE TRAMPOLINE Soar through the air on the exhilarating Bungee Trampoline! Purchase activity tickets in advance online at www.jacksonhole.com pg 23 TETON VILLAGE 9-HOLE FRISBEE GOLF Course starts at Jackson Hole Sports in Teton Village. Course is free, maps, info and discs available in the shop below the Bridger Gondola. 307-739-2687 pg 23 SNOW KING MOUNTAIN offers a wide range of summer recreation activities including the alpine slide, mini-golf course, and bungee trampolines. www.snowkingmountain.com pg 41
BALLOON RIDES
WYOMING BALLOON COMPANY Jackson Hole’s only provider for 24 safe years. See, feel, touch and hear while flying in an open air gondola. Taste the champagne! 307-7390900, wyomingballoon.com pg 41
BIKING
FAT TIRE TOURS Guided mountain bike adventures for all ability levels. Exclusive lift access to Snow King Mountain, the Elk Refuge, and shuttles to Shadow Mountain, and Mosquito Creek. 520 West Broadway 307-733-5335 pg 39 FITZGERALD’S BICYCLES Get off the beaten path while viewing the "backside" of the Tetons on picturesque roads. Guided or unguided tours and rentals. Mention this ad for 15% off a rental or tour. 208-787-BIKE, FitzgeraldsBicycles.com pg 41 GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Mountain bike rentals, single & double track riding from base. A variety of downhill riding from top of chairlift. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 25 HEADWALL RECYCLE SPORTS We have high quality consignment bikes at great prices. Located in K-Mart Plaza, West Broadway, 307-734-8022. PG 41 HOBACK SPORTS Jackson's premier full service bike shop. Professional staff with the skills to rent, repair, fit, and accessorize your perfect bike. Dealer for Specialized, Trek, Santa Cruz, Electra and Rans. 520 West Broadway 307-733-5335 pg 39 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS Bike Rentals for the entire family in the Bridger Center, Teton Village. Free Teewinot lift access with full day rentals at Jackson Hole Sports. Rent online and save at www.jacksonhole.com 307-739-2687 pg 23 TETON VILLAGE SPORTS Bike Rentals, paddleboards, Grand Fishing Guides, apparel and gear all available in store and online www.tetonvillagesports.com 307-732-4058 pg 23 TETON VILLAGE Several sports stores rent, sell and service bicycles. www.gotetonvillage.com or call 1-866-749-4077 pg 23
BOATING, SCENIC & WHITEWATER CODY, WYOMING
PARK COUNTY TRAVEL COUNCIL Whitewater on the Shoshone River. For full listing go to www.yellowstonecountry.org 1-800-390-2639. pg 29
JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING JACKSON HOLE KAYAK SCHOOL We teach kayaking, canoeing, rafting & SUP – on the Snake & Hoback Rivers, Slide Lake &Yellowstone Lake. Half-day to four day lessons or tours & more ways to have fun on the water than anywhere on the planet. We maintain a low 4-to-1 student to instructor ratio for all skill levels. www.jacksonholekayak.com, 945 W.Broadway, Jackson, 307-733-2471 pg 47 JENNY LAKE BOATING We offer shuttle service across Jenny Lake to access beautiful Cascade Canyon, Hidden Falls, and Inspiration Point. Hour long guided boat tours also run through the day. Or enjoy the lake on your own with a canoe or kayak rental. 307734-9227 jennylakeboating.com pg 45 O.A.R.S. Join O.A.R.S. for a kayaking tour on Yellowstone Lake in Yellowstone National Park or a rafting and kayaking adventure in Grand Teton National Park. www.oars.com/w pg 49 RENDEZVOUS RIVER SPORTS The best selection of paddling equipment in the West. Service-oriented staff specializes in providing precisely what you need for your paddling adventures. Canoes, kayaks, paddle boards & rafts from leading companies. Rentals, demos & lessons. www.jacksonholekayak.com, 945 W.Broadway, Jackson, 307-733-2471 pg 47 SANDS WILDWATER RIVER TRIPS In our 5th decade, our boatmen have a deep knowledge of every turn, rapid, & current. We've taken tens of thousands of people safely down river, including the President of the United States. Variety of scenic & whitewater trips, breakfast & overnight trips. 307-733-4410/800-358-8184 pg 44 SOLITUDE FLOAT TRIPS We offer Snake River float trips that are 100% inside Grand Teton National Park. Each trip includes information on the National Park and Jackson Hole's wildlife, history, geology, and any special interest you may want to explore. 888704-2800 solitudefloattrips.com pg 44
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CHAIRLIFTS, TRAM – GONDOLA GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Stay and play! Come enjoy a comfortable mountain getaway with lodging both on-mountain & in Teton Valley. See stunning Teton views and enjoy scenic chairlift rides, biking, hiking, horse-back riding, fly fishing & family dining. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 25 JACKSON HOLE AERIAL TRAM Ride 4,139’ above the valley to 10,450’ and the alpine timberline environment. Take in the 360 degree panorama view into Idaho and the Tetons. Reservations not required. Purchase tickets in advance at www.jacksonhole.com and save $6. 307-739-2654 pg 23 JACKSON HOLE BRIDGER GONDOLA Ride 3,000’ above the valley to 9,095’ to the Bridger Restaurant. Cocktails & appetizers on “The Deck,” open June 23 – September 13, 2013. CLOSED SATURDAYS. Fine dining at the Couloir Restaurant. Ride FREE 4:30-10p.m. 2-for-1 Happy Hour, 4:30-6:00 307-739-2654 pg 23 SNOW KING MOUNTAIN Overlook Jackson Hole and the Tetons from the top of Snow King Scenic Chairlift. Hike on network of trails. www.snowkingmountain.com pg 41 TEEWINOT CHAIRLIFT Ride the chairlift with your bike or on foot to access miles of single track for all types of riders & hiking trails into Grand Teton NP. Tickets (free with rental) & bike rentals at JH Sports in the Bridger Center, at the base of the lift. 307-7392687 pg 23
CLIMBING WALLS & GUIDES GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING
GRAND TARGHEE CLIMBING WALL Experience the fun and challenge of sport climbing at the base area. Our staff will help coach you to the top of our specially designed climbing wall. pg 25
JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN GUIDES Since 1968 Offering guided climbs and rock climbing instruction in the Tetons, Winds, Beartooths, Red Rocks, Moab & Indian Creek and City of Rocks. 800-239-7642 www.jhmg.com pg 37 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT CLIMBING WALL A variety of climbs from easy to complex. pg 23
PINEDALE, WYOMING SUBLETTE COUNTY Hiking & climbing in the Wind River & Wyoming Ranges. For info go to www.sublettechamber.com or PinedaleOnline.com 888-285-7282 pg 33
FISHING
HIGH COUNTRY OUTFITTERS Celebrating our 44th Anniversary! Extensive selection of brand name products for any outdoor pursuit. Hand-crafted flies, Camping gear, apparel, shoes & superior service. On the Square in Jackson. 307-733-3270. www.jdhcoutfitters.com PG 7 CODY & PARK COUNTY TRAVEL COUNCIL Fishing on the Shoshone River and in the Absaroka Mountains. For full listing go to www.yellowstonecountry.org 1-800-390-2639. pg 29 THUNDER MOUNTAIN OUTFITTERS 3-6 day horse-pack, fishing, covered wagon & hunting trips into the Absaroka & Wind River Mountains. www.thundermountainoutfitters.com, 800-661-4928 or 307-455-2225
Kids’ Calf Scramble - Cody Nite Rodeo Photo: Bob Woodall
ALPINE SLIDE, BUNGEE TRAMPOLINE, FRISBEE & MINI GOLF
WESTBANK ANGLERS Home to Jackson Hole’s most experienced & seasoned fly fishing guides. Full & 1/2 day trips, beginner to experts. Snake, Green, New Fork & South Fork Rivers & Yellowstone National Park. 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474, www.WestBank.com pg 43 SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE Hiking, fishing, riding in the Wind River & Wyoming Ranges. For full listing go to www.sublettechamber.com or PinedaleOnline.com 888285-7282 pg 33
HORSEBACK RIDING & PACK TRIPS
A-OK CORRAL Come saddle up for a great outdoor adventure! We offer one hour, two hour, half day, and full day horseback rides. Located only 15 minutes south of town. www.horsecreekranch.com 307-733-6556 pg 51 GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons, where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Go horseback riding in our panoramic backcountry. Call 1-800TARGHEE pg 25 CODY & PARK COUNTY TRAVEL COUNCIL Riding in Wapiti Valley & the Absaroka Mountains. Full listing www.yellowstonecountry.org 1-800-390-2639. pg 29 SCOTT’S JACKSON HOLE TRAIL RIDES Experience a horseback tour and a taste of the Old West, with beautiful views of the 'Jackson Hole Valley' & the Grand Tetons. Located within walking distance of Jackson's Town Square~at the base of Snow King Mountain. Hourly rides. Over 40 years experience. 307-733-6992, www.jhtrailrides.com pg 51 SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE Riding in the Wind River & Wyoming Ranges. Full listing – www.sublettechamber.com or PinedaleOnline.com 888-285-7282 pg 33
S HOPPING G UIDE
APPAREL – ART – GIFTS – JEWELRY J AC K SO N H O LE, WYO M I N G BAGGIT WESTERN BOUTIQUE is a contemporary Western clothing boutique featuring an extraordinary array of fashionable clothing for women, fabulous concho belts & accessories, famous Anna Konya skirts, retro styles, unique leather vests and jackets, and great tapestry blanket jackets & vests. baggitjacksonhole.com (307) 733-1234, 35 West Broadway, Jackson pg 19 DANSHELLEY JEWELERS Wyoming’s Finest Jewelry Experience since 1976! From diamonds & elk ivory, to Teton & wildlife originals & distinctive wedding sets. This gallery transcends the ordinary! Downtown in Gaslight Alley, just off the Town Square. www.DanShelley.com 125 N. Cache. 307-733-2259 pg 3 HIDE OUT LEATHERS On the Jackson Town Square, fine designer leather apparel for men & women. Jackets, coats, outerwear, pants, chaps, vests & much more. Quality leather accessories, belts, purses, wallets & leather bags. Also find home leather accessories & jewelry by Jamie Lavenstein. 307-733-2422,hideoutleathers.com. pg 19
HINES GOLDSMITHS Jackson’s premier gallery of fine jewelry designers since 1970. Elegant one-of-a-kind pieces. The original designers of the Teton pendants, charm & rings, plus a large selection of unique charms and charm wheels depicting local wildlife and sports. 80 Center Street, east side of town square. www.hinesgold.com 307-733-5599 PG 11 JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo: jerky, salami, smoked roast, steaks & burger. Elk: steaks, burgers & jerky. Pick up your steak for the BBQ. Gift packs smoked trout & more. WE SHIP! Free Samples south of town in Smith’s Plaza, 800-543-6328 / 7334159. www.jhbuffalomeat.com pg 60 JACKSON HOLE RESORT STORE The official logo store of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Your source for logo apparel & gifts on the east side of the Jackson Town Square. 307734-6045 pg 23 JC JEWELERS Jackson's premier fine jewelry store. Specializing in custom designs in bridal and fine colored stone jewelry using eco-friendly precious metals and gems. Known for integrity, knowledge, & creativity. 132 N. Cache, Jackson, 307-733-5933, 800.358.5715 pg 5 TETON TOYS Best selection of toys and games in the region with a huge play area for the kids! Located on the Town Square inside of Lee's Tees. 307-200-6066 www.teton-toys.com pg 19 TETON VILLAGE A variety of shops offer apparel, sports equipment, gifts, and equipment rentals. Throughout the summer season Teton Village hosts several art and antique shows. For a list pick up the Free Village Mix brochure or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com or call 1-866-749-4077 pg 23 WOOL AND WHISKEY The official men’s apparel store of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Stop by for a swig of fine whiskey while enjoying your manly shopping experience. www.jacksonhole.com 307-732-4080 pg 23
BIKING - CAMPING - FISHING - HIKING J AC K SO N & TETO N V I LL AG E, WYO M I N G
HEADWALL RECYCLE SPORTS Check us out for great gently used outdoor clothing and w w w. y e l l o w s t o n e a d v e n t u r e g u i d e . c o m
TETON VILLAGE TRAIL RIDES Take a horseback ride on the Historic Snake River Ranch with a real cowboy. Hourly rides. Quality mountain horses. Next to Teton Village. TetonVillageTrailrides.com, 307-733-2674 pg 51 THUNDER MOUNTAIN OUTFITTERS 3-6 day horse-pack, fishing, covered wagon & hunting trips into the Absaroka & Wind River Mountains. www.thundermountainoutfitters.com, 800-661-4928 or 307-455-2225
PARAGLIDING
JH PARAGLIDING Take a flight with the professional pilots from Jackson Hole Paragliding! Fly above the Rendezvous Mountain for an experience of a lifetime. Instruction available. Located on the first floor of the Bridger Center below the Bridger Gondola. For rates and reservations 307-739-2626 or visit www.jacksonhole.com pg 23 SNOW KING MOUNTAIN offers a wide range of summer recreation activities including paragliding. www.snowkingmountain.com pg 41
RODEO
CODY NITE RODEO Best of Buffalo Bill’s Wild West. All Rodeo Events. Nightly at 8:00, June 1– Aug. 31. Kid’s events, clowns, covered grandstand, free parking. Tickets available at the front gate & various businesses. 307-587-5155 or 800-207-0744 pg 31
SHOOTING
JACKSON HOLE SHOOTING EXPERIENCE Whether a novice shooter or experienced marksman, we provide premier shooting instruction and customized experiences year round. Focus on safe and unparalled fun. www.ShootingInJH.com, 307-690-7921 pg 53
gear. We have high quality consignment items at great prices for the whole family. Located in K mart Plaza 307-734-8022. PG 41 HIGH COUNTRY OUTFITTERS Celebrating our 44th Anniversary! Extensive selection of brand name products for any outdoor pursuit. Hand-crafted flies, Camping gear, apparel, shoes & superior service. On the Square in Jackson. 307-733-3270. www.jdhcoutfitters.com8 PG 7 HOBACK SPORTS Jackson's premier full service bike and outdoor store. Professional staff to rent, repair, fit, and accessorize your bike. Hiking shoes and accessories; including bear spray. www.hobacksports.com, 520 West Broadway 307-733-5335 pg 39 JACKSON HOLE’S GENERAL STORE Pickup last minute needs or special treats for your day of adventure. Full espresso bar, ice cream, milk shakes and more! Bear spray and other outdoor gear available. www.jacksonhole.com 307-732-4090 pg 23 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS In the Bridger Center, Teton Village, is your one-stop shop for an active summer outing. Sportswear, shoes, accessories & resort wear for the entire family. Bike rentals for the entire family. Free Teewinot lift access with full day rentals at Jackson Hole Sports. www.jacksonhole.com 307-739-2687 pg 23 RENDEZVOUS RIVER SPORTS The best selection of paddling equipment in the West. Canoes, kayaks, paddle boards & rafts from leading companies. Rentals, demos & lessons. Count on RRS for all your paddling needs. We ship equipment around the world. www.jacksonholekayak.com, 945 W.Broadway, Jackson, 307-733-2471 pg 47 SNOW KING MOUNTAIN offers a wide range of summer recreation activities including the alpine slide, mini-golf, horseback rides, scenic lift rides, paragliding, mountain biking, hiking, and bungee trampolines. www.snowkingmountain.com pg 41 TETON VILLAGE Several Outdoor stores in Teton Village rent, sell and service bicycles as well as outdoor gear, clothing etc. to outfit you for any adventure. Pick up the Village Mix brochure or on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com. pg 23 WESTBANK ANGLERS Jackson Hole’s fly fishing experts & seasoned fly fishing guides. Most complete selection of flies & tackle available. Retail store on the Teton Village Road, just North of the Aspens. www.WestBank.com 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474 pg 43
G R AN D TAR G H E E, WYO M I N G GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Mountain bike rentals, single & double track riding from base. A variety of downhill riding from top of chairlift. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 25
CAMERAS, BINOCULARS & PHOTOGRAPHY J AC K SO N H O LE, WYO M I N G
DD CAMERA CORRAL Jackson’s oldest full service camera store. Authorized dealer: Canon, Sony, Nikon, Leica, GoPro & Pentax. Binoculars, film, frames, & accessories. Friendly & knowledgeable staff. 2-hour film & digital processing. 60 So. Cache, across from Eddie Bauer. 307733-3831 pg 2, 13 & 59 FOCUS PRODUCTIONS, INC. Publishers of Teton and Yellowstone Country Adventure Guide, Jackson Hole Skier & JH Dining Guide. Posters, postcards and commercial & editorial photography & stock photo library. 307-733-6995 www.focusproductions.com WILD BY NATURE GALLERY features the wildlife & landscape photography of Henry H. Holdsworth.T Behind the Wort Hotel, 95 West Deloney wildbynaturegallery.com 307-7338877 pg 16 2 0 1 3 T E TO N & Y E L L OW STO N E A DV E N T U R E G U I D E
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TETON VILLAGE CHUCKWAGON COOKOUTS Treat yourself to a trail ride or covered wagon ride to an authentic rancher cookout. Old West atmosphere with a Dutch oven dinner & campfire entertainment. Tues–Sat. Departures at 5:00 & 5:30pm. www.jacksonhole.com For reservations 307-739-2654 pg 23
WILDLIFE INTERPRETIVE CENTERS VISITOR CENTERS & MUSEUMS CO DY, WYO M I N G
MUSIC & ENTERTAINMENT GRAND TARGHEE MUSIC FESTIVALS Great food, vendors, games, part of our summer music festivals. Tent camp in our beautiful forest during events. It starts with the 7th Annual Targhee Fest, July 15-17. Next is the 24rd Annual Grand Targhee Bluegrass Festival, Aug 12-14. www.grandtarghee.com pg 25 GRAND TETON MUSIC FESTIVALS Each summer GTMF showcases musicians from the nation’s top ensembles in seven weeks of orchestra and chamber music. July 4 – August 17, 2013. (307) 733–1128 or gtmf.org pg 23 NOTEWORTHY MUSIC BOOKING AGENCY Thirty years in Jackson Hole, impeccable references. Provides entertainment for all types of occasions. NoteWorthyMusicAgency.com Call Mike Calabrese 307-733-5459 pg 56 TETON VILLAGE Throughout the summer season Teton Village hosts musical performances. For a list pick up the Free Village Mix brochure or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com or www.jacksonhole.com for events. pg 23
MEDICAL SERVICES & EMERGENCY CARE ST. JOHN’S FAMILY HEALTH & URGENT CARE Walk-ins welcome. X-ray & laboratory services on-site so doctors can assess & treat your condition promptly. Open extended hours, evenings & weekends. In the Smith’s Plaza, 1415 S. Hwy 89, 307-739-8999 pg 9 ST. JOHN’S EMERGENCY DEPARTMENT Staffed 24/7 by board-certified emergency medicine physicians. St. John’s offers comprehensive hospital care including diagnostic imaging, certified Clinical Laboratory & Surgery Center services. 625 E. Broadway, 307-733-3636 pg 9
RESTAURANTS & BARS GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING
GRAND TARGHEE serves up a variety of fare at reasonable prices. Find dining at the Branding Iron Grille, quick snacks at Snorkel’s or Wild Bill’s Grille, or a full service cafeteria. The Trap Bar & Grille is home to great food, spirits and local entertainment in a casual atmosphere. pg 25
BUFFALO BILL CENTER OF THE WEST “One of the finest museums in the world.” Cody Fire Arms Museum, Whitney Western Art Museum, Plains Indian Museum, Buffalo Bill Museum & the Draper Natural History Museum. 720 Sheridan Ave. centerofthewest.org, 307587-4771 pg 28 BUFFALO BILL DAM & VISITOR CENTER Open daily May 1-Sept. 30. Free admission, enjoy views from the top of the dam. The center includes exhibits, a theater, a self-guided audio tour, bookstore, & restrooms. www.BBDVC.org Located 6 miles west of Cody on way to Yellowstone. pg 31
D U BO I S, WYO M I N G NATIONAL BIGHORN SHEEP INTERPRETIVE CENTER Enjoyable & educational experience."Sheep Mountain,"photos & hands-on exhibits draw visitors into the majestic range & habits of these magnificent animals. Gift shop. 9am-8pm daily. 307-455-3429 pg 17
J AC K SO N H O LE, WYO M I N G JACKSON HOLE MUSEUM Exhibits capture the spirit & culture of the early days of Jackson Hole. It features an outstanding collection of American Indian artifacts, fur trade era tools & firearms, & items from the ranching & pioneer settlement era. In our new location 225 N. Cache. jacksonholehistory.org
P I N E DALE, WYO M I N G 78th ANNUAL GREEN RIVER RENDEZVOUS PAGEANT This hour-long re-enactment relives the early mountain man & Indian history of the area. “Meet Me on the Green!” Sunday, July 14, 1pm at the Pinedale Rodeo Grounds. 307-367-2242. pg 33 MUSEUM OF THE MOUNTAIN MAN Exhibits on fur trade, Mountain Men, Plains Indians and Western exploration. Open daily 9am-5pm through October 31. Green River Rendezvous weekend July 11-14, 2013.www.mmmuseum.com Toll free-877-686-6266 pg 33
W I N D R IV E R I N D I AN R E S E RVATI O N, WYO M I N G NORTHERN ARAPAHO EXPERIENCE A live exhibit through the eyes of the Northern Arapaho People. Celebrate our native heritage through song, dance and storytelling Every Tues. & Thur. at 6 p.m. at the Wind River Casino, 2 miles south of Riverton on HWY 789, windrivercasino.com, 866-657-1604 PG 17
WEDDINGS, CONVENTIONS, PARTIES
JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING
CODY, WYOMING
COULOIR AT JH MOUNTAIN RESORT at JH Mountain Resort Step off the Bridger Gondola 3,000’ above the valley at 9,095’ for fine dining at the Couloir Restaurant, a truly unique dining experience. Open evenings June 29-Sept 9 (except Sat), Cocktails & appetizers on the “Deck.” Ride FREE 4:30-10p.m. 307-739-2654 pg 23 JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo: jerky, salami, smoked roast, steaks & burger. Elk: steaks, burgers & jerky. Pick up your steak for the BBQ. Gift packs smoked trout & more. WE SHIP! Free Samples south of town in Smith’s Plaza, 800-543-6328 / 7334159. www.jhbuffalomeat.com pg 60 JACKSON HOLE DINING GUIDE This 96 page magazine is a compendium of menus from the areas restaurants, with index of food types, along with maps to restaurants. Pick up a copy at your lodge or view on line at www.focusproductions.com pg 53 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT At Teton Village, over 12 restaurants offer breakfast, lunch & dinner, from gourmet burgers, pizza to distinct American cuisine. pg 23
PARK COUNTY TRAVEL COUNCIL Facilities for any function, from guest ranches to hotels. yellowstonecountry.org 1-800-390-2639. pg 29
LIFT JACKSON HOLE Eat, Drink, Gather and experience the best views & outdoor dining in Jackson. At the base of Snow King Mountain, Jackson Hole’s newest restaurant-pub. Eclectic menu with FAMOUS BURGERS, amazing food, 17 crafted drafts, wine & your favorite cocktail. Continuous dining daily for lunch & dinner, 11:30 a.m. 645 S. Cache Street. 307-733-5438, www.liftjacksonhole.com pg 60 McDONALD’S® OF JACKSON HOLE Great Tastes, Affordable Choices. Featuring McDonald's freshly prepared breakfast & regular menu favorites. Wi-Fi availability for your convenience. 5:00am-midnight daily. 1110 W. Broadway Hwy 22. pg 17 MEAD RANCH NATURAL BEEF For over 100 years, our family raised the highest quality Angus Hereford beef in the shadows of Tetons. Grass-fed beef on conservation land, grain finished, steroid free, antibiotic free, humanely processed, dry aged. Ask for it at finer Jackson Hole restaurants & grocers. 307-734-3911 PG 26 SNAKE RIVER BREWERY & RESTAURANT The Great American Beer Festival’s Small Brewery of The Year, 2000 & 2001. Serving tasty brews, burgers, delicious pizzas, pastas & sandwiches. Free WiFi. From 11:30 am to Midnight, 7 days a week. 7392337. www.snakeriverbrewing.com PG 5 TETON VILLAGE has a wide array of food and drink establishments are scattered throughout. Pick up the Village Mix brochure for the listings, or on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com 866-749-4077 pg 23
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GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 25
JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT Full service resort in Teton Village. Hotels, restaurants, lounges, recreation. 307-733-2292 pg 23 NOTEWORTHY MUSIC BOOKING AGENCY Thirty years in Jackson Hole, impeccable references. Provides entertainment for all types of occasions. NoteWorthyMusicAgency.com Call Mike Calabrese 307-733-5459 pg 56
PINEDALE, WYOMING SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE Facilities for any function, from guest ranches to hotels. Full listing: sublettechamber.com or PinedaleOnline.com, 888-285-7282 pg 33
NOTEWORTHY MUSIC BOOKING AGENCY • The finest live music acts in the region • Jazz, Swing, Rock, Country, Solos, Duos, Trios & Big Band • Impeccable references Michael Calabrese • 307-733-5459 P.O. Box 289 • Wilson, WY 83014 E-mail: Noteworthy@blissnet.com
Fourth of July concert (left), Campfire memories (right) Photo: Bob Woodall
E NTERTAINMENT, D INING , S ERVICES
L ODGING I NDEX
LODGING
JACKSON HOLE RESORT LODGING Conveniently located next to the Teton Village Market, lodging & accommodation for all seasons. Affordable condos to luxury vacation homes, for family getaways and reunions. 800-443-8613, 307-733-3990 pg 23 TETON VILLAGE A wide variety of lodging choices from high end to very affordable are available in Teton Village. Pick up the Free Village Mix brochure in Teton Village or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com or call 1-866-749-4077 pg 23
CODY, WYOMING BUFFALO BILL’S CODY/YELLOWSTONE COUNTRY Information center, 836 Sheridan Av., 800-393-2639 www.yellowstonecountry.org pg 29
DUBOIS, WYOMING TRIANGLE C RANCH 3-6 day traditional summer dude ranch vacations with programs for the whole family. www.trianglec.com (800) 661-4928 or 307- 455-2225
GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Stay and play! Come enjoy a comfortable mountain getaway with lodging both on-mountain & in Teton Valley. See stunning Teton views and enjoy scenic chairlift rides, biking, hiking, horse-back riding, fly fishing & family dining. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 25 & 57
JACKSON, WYOMING PAINTED BUFFALO INN Offers comfortable lodging in the heart of downtown Jackson, 3-blocks from the Town Square. Swimming pool, sauna & shuttle stops are just a few of the conveniences we offer. 400 W. Broadway, www.paintedbuffaloinn.com 800-288-3866 pg 57 SUPER 8 Experience true Western hospitality in the heart of Jackson Hole. Complimentary breakfast, evening popcorn, free wireless internet, microwave/refrigerator. Custom packages & group rates. www.jacksonholesuper8.com, 750 S Hwy 89, Jackson, 800-800-8000/307-733-6833 pg 57
TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING HOSTEL A friendly lodge with private & shared bunk rooms, all have private baths & maid service. Renovated in 2011. Rates: Low season $44-$69, high season $79-$99 for private rooms & $18-$36 for shared bunk room. At the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, in Teton Village, Wyoming. www.thehostel.us 307-733-3415 pg 57
Grand Targhee Resort
Hostel
Renovated in 2011. Enjoy a comfortable & inexpensive stay in Teton Village at the base of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. We have private rooms & beds in shared bunkrooms. Both options come with a private bathroom. High season: $79–$99. Low season: $44–$69. Bunk room:$18–36.
Grand Targhee offers convenient, comfortable, and flexible lodging both on-mountain and in Teton Valley. Whether you desire to be at the Resort or on Ski Hill Road you have immediate access to the areaʼs summer adventures including mountain biking, horseback riding, rafting, fly fishing, and much more. Alta, Wyoming 83414 1-800-TARGHEE 307-353-2300 www.GrandTarghee.com
Box 583,Teton Village, Wyoming 83025 307-733-3415 www.thehostel.us, info@thehostel.us
Painted Buffalo Inn
Jackson Hole Super 8
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Experience true Western hospitality in the heart of Jackson Hole. Just steps away from the free city bus, river rafting, and other recreation. Complimentary breakfast, evening popcorn, free wireless internet, microwave/refrigerator,cable TV with HBO and free local calls. Custom packages & group rates. 750 S Hwy 89, Jackson, WY 83001 800-800-8000 / 307-733-6833 www.jacksonholesuper8.com jacksonholesuper8@wyom.net
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Discover the color of a great vacation at the Painted Buffalo Inn. We offer comfortable rooms for the budget conscious traveler. Unwind in our sauna or indoor pool and wake up to a continental breakfast. Weʼre located 3 blocks from the town square with a shuttle stop on property. Mention this ad when booking and receive 5% off your stay. 400 West Broadway, Jackson, WY 83001 800-288-3866 / 307-733-4340 www.paintedbuffaloinn.com info@paintedbuffaloinn.com
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2 0 1 3 T E TO N & Y E L L OW STO N E A DV E N T U R E G U I D E
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INFORMATION BOZEMAN, MONTANA 406-586-5421 CODY, WYOMING 307-587-2297 DUBOIS, WYOMING 307-455-2556 GARDINER, MONTANA 406-848-7971 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK 307-739-3300 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING 307-733-3316 LIVINGSTON, MONTANA 406-222-0850 MEETEESE, WYOMING 307-868-2423 PINEDALE, WYOMING 307-367-2242 POWELL, WYOMING 307-754-3494 RED LODGE, MONTANA 406-446-1718 TETON VALLEY/DRIGGS, IDAHO 208-354-2500 WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA 406-646-7701 WIND RIVER VISITORS COUNCIL 800-645-6233 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 307-344-7381 Map design by Bob Woodall Copyright 2013 – Focus Productions, Inc.
DUNRAVEN • WASHBURN • SNAKE RIVER • GROS VENTRE • TOGWOTEE PASS • GRAND TETONS • OLD FAITHFUL • PAHASKA • BUFFALO BILL • SHOSHONE • NEZ PERCE • HOBACK • BRIDGER
To Three Forks
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• MADISON • MORAN • FIREHOLE • GIBBON • TEEWINOT • ROOSEVELT LODGE • WASHBURN • JENNY LAKE • LEIGH LAKE • NORRIS • GALLATIN • WIND RIVER • ABSAROKA • WAPITI VALLEY
• CODY • DUBOIS • JACKSON HOLE • RED LODGE • MAMMOTH • GARDINER • PINEDALE • WYOMING • IDAHO • MONTANA • YELLOWSTONE •
SNOW KING • HAYDEN VALLEY • MOOSE • WILSON • TETON VILLAGE • DRIGGS • VICTOR • GRAND TARGHEE • BEARTOOTH • COOKE CITY •
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