Food + Home Magazine - Fall 2022

FOOD + HOME

ASADO-STYLE!

ARGENTINE BBQ AND THE FLAVORS OF LATE SUMMER

PLUS:

STORM WINERY PROFILE

ARTIST KATIE UPTON

MARGARITA MAN

THIRD WINDOW SMASH SPACES FOR LIVING RECIPES AND MORE!

HOME

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KATIE UPTON

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PublIsher & PresIdent

Philip Kirkwood

phil@food-home.com

dInIng & CoPy edItor

Jeff Miller

WIne edItor

Hana-Lee Sedgwick

travel edItor

Leslie A . Westbrook

ContrIbutors

Raymond Bloom

Angela Borda

Christine Cowles

Lisa Cullen

Danielle Fahrenkrug

Nick Franklin

Laurence Hauben

Geneva Ives

Lynette La Mere

Nancy Ransohoff

Megan Waldrep

PhotograPhy

Jim Bartsch

Michael Brown

Joshua Curry

Eliot Crowley

Mehosh Dziadzio

Braulio Godinez

Ashley Hardin

Kim Reierson

Alexander Siegel

Shelly Vinson

soCIal medIa Consultant

Kara Pearson

ContaCt InformatIon

P.O . Box 20025, Santa Barbara, CA 93120 (805) 455-4756

www .food–home .com

Food and hoMe (ISSN# 1533-693X) is published quarterly by Metro Inc and single copies are provided to selected homeowners free of charge Unless otherwise noted, all photographs, artwork, and designs printed in Food & Home are the sole property of Metro Inc and may not be duplicated or reprinted without Metro Inc ’s express written permission Food & hoMe and Metro Inc are not liable for typographical or production errors or the accuracy of information provided by advertisers Readers should verify advertised information with the advertisers Food & hoMe and Metro Inc reserve the right to refuse any advertising Food & hoMe® is a registered trademark of Metro, Inc Copyright © 2019 All inquiries may be sent to: Metro Media Services, P O Box 20025, Santa Barbara, CA 93120, or call (805) 455-4756, or e-mail: info@food-home com Unless otherwise noted, all photographs, artwork, and designs printed in Food & Home are the sole property of Metro Inc and may not be duplicated or reprinted without Metro Inc ’s express written permission Food & Home and Metro Inc are not liable for typographical or production errors or the accuracy of information provided by advertisers Readers should verify advertised information with the advertisers

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Quality & Craftsmanship

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Montecito Kitchens is an accomplished design and construction firm delivering skilled and proven craftsmanship from start to finish. Our workmanship is guaranteed. References are gladly furnished.

Montecito Kitchens is an accomplished design and construction firm delivering skilled and proven craftsmanship from start to finish. Our workmanship is guaranteed. References are gladly furnished.

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Laurence Hauben

Born and raised in France, Laurence began her culinary training at age three A cooking teacher and chef, she is available for small group and private events, specializing in seasonal menus centered around Santa Barbara’s organic produce and local seafood To learn more, visit www marketforays com

Geneva Ives

Geneva Ives is a local writer with a big appetite, cute little boy, and sweet ’66 El Camino . She also writes for USA Today and is the author of “Unique Eats and Eateries of Santa Barbara .” Feast along on Instagram: @hi_geneva

Jeff Miller

Jeff Miller is a longtime newspaper writer/editor who now writes books and plays His novels can be found at amazon com/author/ jdmillerauthor or at Lulu com under J D Miller

Nancy Ransohoff

Nancy Ransohoff is a writer and editor who’s worked at Bon Appetit, Architectural Digest, and Frommer’s guidebooks She currently writes for 805 Living magazine and covers Santa Barbara area restaurants for Westways magazine . She was a writer and editor for the guidebook “Hometown Santa Barbara,” and loves to help show off this beautiful place we’re lucky enough to call home .

Hana-Lee Sedgwick

Hana-Lee Sedgwick is a writer, editor, and marketing consultant born and raised in Santa Barbara A certified specialist of wine and sommelier, she loves sharing the world of wine with people, and happily spends her downtime eating, drinking, and wandering throughout California wine country and beyond Follow her on Instagram @wanderandwine

Megan Waldrep

Megan Waldrep is a writer based in Ojai, CA, and Wilmington, NC Her husband, Chris Dabney, is a second-generation California spiny lobsterman and Bristol Bay fisherman, which gives Megan plenty to dish about on her lifestyle blog for partners of commercial fishermen at meganwaldrep .com

Leslie A. Westbrook

Leslie A Westbrook is an award-winning journalist who covers travel, food, design, and people She also assists clients around the globe desiring to sell fine art, antiques, and collectibles via international auction houses Leslie can be reached for a complimentary consultation at LeslieAWestbrook@gmail com

TURN YOUR HOLIDAY GET-TOGETHER INTO A TROPICAL GETAWAY

This year, celebrate the season on an award-winning Caribbean or Mexican Riviera vacation, and leave the holiday hassle in your wake. Escape to breathtaking places—like St. Thomas, Tortola, Cozumel, Cabo San Lucas, and Grand Cayman—on a ship that’s a destination itself. We’ll take care of every festive detail on board. Savor delicious holiday meals with menus crafted by our Michelin-starred chef. Enjoy stunning decorations and entertainment that will get the whole family in the spirit. Ring in the New Year at a ship-wide champagne gala. And the best part? You don’t have to do a thing but relax.

Seated in history

A working museum of vintage barber chairs

by raymond bloom

Jorge Salgado bought his first vintage barber shop chair in 2011 from an online auction It was a Koken, made in the United States in the late 1890s The frame was made of wood with copper and nickel trimmed accessories It had hydraulics with a pull lever to raise and lower the chair … state of the art for that era It had a round seat and a round back with a cowboy theme . In the 1920s, Koken switched their chair materials

from wood to porcelain, never to use wood again This made Salgado’s Koken a rare find, indeed

Over the next 10 years, Salgado successfully searched and shopped for additional chairs (he now has over 50) from the same era to fill his two popular shops on State Street downtown “I’ve been all over the country collecting chairs from that time period,” he said “I find them on Craigslist, at auctions, even garage sales . Some are pretty

beat up when I first find them, and it takes some time to get them in shape I consider the task to be an honor and my way of paying homage to a noble trade ” Restoring these chairs is not for the faint of heart or pocket, as the price tag for labor and materials is often north of $6,000

Of all his chairs, Salgado’s favorite is a Koch wood Lion’s Head . (Koch was a competitor of Koken back in the day ) It

features a round back and round seat with copper and nickel trim, and, of course, it’s framed in wood with a cowboy theme from the late 1800s “It’s my gem,” he said “The rarest of them all There might be only three remaining in the world I’m still debating putting the chair into service [in the shop] Every part is original It might just be mine to look at .” Salgado says he has no intention of ever selling his chairs and is always looking to

Santa Barbara native, Jorge Salgado, with his vintage barber chairs of which he now owns over 50 and counting.

Photo by Kim Reierson

build his collection and open new locations

It’s more than just a haircut when customers sit down in Salgado’s shop . It’s a working museum and the barbercustomer conversation is usually about the wooden aesthetic and the shop’s early Santa Barbara vibe Salgado usually offers a beer or margarita (free of charge) as part of the experience “We have a professional standard in our appearance and service: old school,” he said “After all, we’re on State Street and we like to put on a show ”

During most of the Covid virus shutdown, Salgado moved three of his best chairs (all weighing in at 300-plus pounds) to the sidewalk in front of the 1223 State Street location . Dressed in early Americana attire, complete with vintage vest and hat, he and his staff offered passers by a “smokin’ deal” on a professional haircut and shave Within a few days, lines began to form www.thebarbeshopca.com @thebarbershopca

Margarita man has arrived M

arcos Altamirano has been working in the restaurant business since 1996 when he arrived from his hometown in Oaxaca, Mexico . Not speaking a word of English, he landed at Pascual’s on Victoria Street as a dishwasher, pulling the late-night shift Fast forward 26 years and Altamirano has bettered his skills to become one of Santa Barbara’s premier mixologists . Known best for his array of signature margaritas, he has loyal following among locals and visitors and is a fixture behind the bar at Flor De Maiz on Cabrillo Blvd .

“I learned from the best,” he said That meant first watching the fast-paced bartenders at Pascual’s (one of Santa Barbara’s busiest night spots in the 1990s) and then later moving to bartending at Mesa Café “They showed me their secrets and I’ve learned over time to add some of my own to make the flavors one of a kind ”

Altamirano says you can’t cut corners when good margaritas are concerned It starts with 100 percent blue agave tequila, nothing less Then fresh-squeezed lime juice and pure agave nectar “When you have that as a base, everything else, spices, liqueurs, juices, or just straight up, will work for the right taste ” The “straight up” version is the House, Flor De Maiz Margarita, of which he crafts over 300 on a slow day He says on one “magic Saturday” he and his team made over 1,000 “I honestly lost count it was so busy ”

One of his signature favorites is the Margarita Guadalajara, which features blended watermelon-cucumber juice, fresh lime, organic agave syrup, and mint, and is finished with Hawaiian black lava salt on the rim

On the spicy side, he offers his Margarita Tamaarindo con Chile, which features a serrano-infused tequila, tamarindo syrup, juice from fresh limes and garnished with a red chile de arbol

Altamirano says he has a passion for the work he does … always learning, and hopes he can continue for years to come Margarita aficionados everywhere are rooting for him to do just that –RB

East Cabrillo Blvd., www.flordemaizsb.com

Photo by Kim Reierson

Photo by Emmond

Los Olivos: Sidestepping the predictable

by geneva Ives

About once a month, usually on a weekend day when we have nothing particular to do (and I’m avoiding the laundry), we bundle into the car and take the 154 from Santa Barbara to Los Olivos Sometimes we bring the dogs with us, sometimes not

Los Olivos has a small downtown with no stoplights and more than two dozen wine-tasting rooms We’ve been visiting for over 15 years and are wine club members at few places, but there’s still always something new to discover .

Our last trip was particularly spontaneous . At 11:30, someone asked the inevitable: “What’s for lunch?” And by noon we had

booked a 12:45 reservation at Bar Le Côte, picked up a friend, and were on our way

If you haven’t been to Bar Le Côte yet, this is your sign to go It’s simultaneously gorgeous and casual, serving some of the best seafood in Santa Barbara, albeit from a rather landlocked location*

“Dining at Bar Le Côte should be fun,” said chef and co-owner Brad Matthews “I love when the dining room is full and ‘Lighting Girl’ by Nancy Sinatra is blasting through the speakers . We want our guests to be in a positive, rocking atmosphere while enjoying Morro Bay oysters and whole roasted fish .”

After a heat-busting lunch of

chilled peel-and-eat shrimp, some crispy sea bream sandwiches, and a bottle of Blanc de BLC made exclusively for the restaurant by Justin Willett of Tyler Winery — plus the kiddo’s yummy fish n’ chips that we stole bites of — we strolled two blocks over to Dreamcôte

Owned by local winemaking couple Britt and Ryan Zotovich, Dreamcôte is side project for both of them, a home for small batches of wine and cider that focus on rarer, locally sourced fruit . The tasting menu varies widely and changes often, emphasizing the Zotovich’s “life is short, drink what you like” motto .

This visit, we lucked into a cold, refreshing prickly pear cider

(Britt says it pairs excellently with tacos) and took home some of the last bottles of 2020 Gamay Asked what she likes about Los Olivos, Britt shared, “There’s so much to explore in this town Check out Jedlicka’s for western wear, duck into Nella for the best pesto tagliolini, and grab a glass of equally delicious Gamay at Storm or Story of Soil ”

We headed home for a nap after this, but I can vouch for all of the above Happy exploring!

P S . A kind of funny joke when you consider that this story features two businesses with “côte” in the name (“côte” is French for a few things, including “side” and “coast ”

Photo credit for Dreamcote: Nicole Crawford Photo credit for Bar le Cote is Bonjwing Lee

(Left) Bar Le Côte. (Above) Dreamcôte

A culture for excellence

by Jeff mIller

What’s the toughest challenge for a restaurant? Attracting customers? Creating a delicious menu?

Those count, for sure, but topping the list is getting and keeping a great crew . And one of the best ways to do that is to hire good people, bring them along, and then promote them to key positions when the time is right

That’s the story of Mitchell Sjerven, who started as a dishwasher at age 16 in Minnesota, worked his way up, and eventually created bouchon, rated by many as the best restaurant in Santa Barbara It’s also the story of bouchon’s new executive chef, Nate Van Etten, and chef de cuisine, Vicken Tavitian, both of whom have stepped up the in-house ladder

Promoting from within is “absolutely” better for morale, Sjerven said

“That’s always my intention . It inspires people One day it could be them .”

Chef Van Etten agrees wholeheartedly . “Bring in somebody new to tell you what to do in your restaurant and morale can go south pretty fast,” he said .

Van Etten follows in the footsteps of Greg Murphy, bouchon’s executive chef for 13 years before moving to Ventura in March For his long service and long notice of the plan to move, Murphy left under the best of terms “I’m extremely grateful to him,” Sjerven said

Van Etten also has reason for Murphy gratitude He worked as a chef at nearby Petit Valentien for 14 years before deciding to try something else “Maybe even construction,” Van Etten said Then, out of the blue, came a call from Murphy “Word was out on the street That was

Photos by Kim Reierson @kmonosan

Bouchon’s new executive chef, Nate Van Etten (left), and chef de cuisine, Vicken Tavitian. Popular house starters (right): Tutti Frutti Farms heirloom tomato salad with rustic country pate, all paired with Margerum Wine Company Rose.

nice .” And so, Van Etten came on board at bouchon, working his way up to sous chef and now exec

The owner describes Van Etten’s style as less is more “Inexperienced chefs try to compensate for their lack of experience with lots of ingredients ” Sjerven said Such crutches “can lead to truffle oil on everything ”

To the contrary, Van Etten “just wants it to be correct,” Sjerven said “He’s not pretentious He avoids the trends, the items where the ingredients aren’t pronounceable That aligns with my philosophy perfectly ”

The new chef de cuisine, Tavitian, is in tune too “Vicken is great,” Sjerven said “He’s been with me four years, and he’s really into food as well His charge is to make sure every meal comes out right every time He and Nate work very well together ”

What’s Van Etten’s favorite item to prepare at bouchon? “I love charcuterie,” he said “And I really love slow-braised dishes, like pork shanks and short ribs . Things that take time I find I enjoy more .”

And then there are the experiences that takes all day Those are the “Foodie Strolls,” during which a few diners accompany Van Etten on a ramble through a farmers’ market, watching him select items for that night’s menu He brings a paring knife along, so strollers can taste the difference between, say, a regular tomato and an heirloom Then that night they come to bouchon to dine on the ingredients they witnessed going into the wagon

“A lot of people, surprisingly, don’t know how to cook at all,” Van Etten said “It’s hard to fathom They were just never taught to take the time and enjoy the process ” The Foodie Strolls truly show the “farm to plate aspect,” Van Etten said “The

connection and camaraderie and support of people who work hard to bring good produce to them ” (Van Etten said he was a shy person in the past, but the Strolls have “pushed me past that ”)

Van Etten’s restaurant career began at age 16, at a KFC in Manteca, CA Now he’s 39 and the executive chef at the restaurant rated the best in Santa Barbara by many reviewers The trick to thriving in the kitchen, is “keeping passionate about it,” he said . “When it becomes work it’s no good .” And like his ingredients, his goal is simple . “My goal is to be recognized as good at my job,” Van Etten said www.bouchonsantabarbara.com

The Foodie Strolls truly show the “farm to plate aspect,” Van Etten said. “The connection and camaraderie and support of people who work hard to bring good produce to them."

ASADO STYLE!

A melding of flavors and tradition

by PhIl KIrKWood

Photos by Eliot Cowley

When the Spanish began colonizing Argentina in the 1600s, they brought with them cattle and a cooking method called asado, which literally means roast or roasted The asado-style BBQ can be a 10-hour, slow roasting of beef, pork, or lamb over an outdoor fire pit of oak coals Santa Barbara private chef Aimee Cornejo is an experienced veteran at cooking large-scale asado-style events The most recent was a late-summer grill in the Santa Barbara foothills at the home of David and Wendy Laub, both longtime members of the local medical community .

“I would say my style of barbecuing comes from my Chilean culture roots around food as well as my time spent in Greece,” she said “These experiences have opened my eyes to my love for cooking outdoors with family and friends I have some South African friends and every year we get together and celebrate Braai Day by gathering and grilling a whole lamb or pig over a wood fire all day long . It doesn’t matter what I am cooking outside, a big paella or a shrimp boil, I very much enjoy sharing the process with others .

For the Laub party, Cornejo featured asado-style lamb and pork and served with Argentine chimichurri She also utilized the hot ashes of the fire pit to bury and cook whole vegetables, including sweet potatoes, eggplant, peppers, and onions This cooking method is called “rescoldo ” Wendy contributed fresh summer salads and homemade sausages braised in tomato sauce and a crudite platter with grilled pita bread as a starter For the spices, Cornejo used fresh Italian parsley, cumin, crushed garlic, and lots of lemon juice as the core of her go-to spice mix . “They seem to go into just about everything I cook,” she said Cornejo graduated from the Culinary Arts School at Santa Barbara City College . For the last 20 years she’s been working as a chef in various locations, including owning her own catering company in California and in Chile, as well as head chef position in a resort town on the Island of Corfu

in Greece For her favorite “side gig,” she enjoys gardening and creating intimate sit-down suppers with seasonal menus for friends when they can truly relax, taste the food, and enjoy the company “It doesn’t get much better than that ”

CHIMICHURRI RECIPE

The key to this day’s asado menu was the chimichurri sauce and here is how chef Aimee prepared it

“My go-to recipe for a traditional Chimichurri comes from none other than Francis Mallmann, author of ‘Seven Fires, Grilling the Argentine way ’ I find his recipe sticks to the traditions He uses fresh parsley and oregano instead of dried, which is what the Gauchos would use This recipe calls for a ‘salmuera’ for salt seasoning A salmuera is a brine solution . Simply salt and water . In Argentina, they use it to season their meats while grilling them and for use in sauces This recipe is not mine .

Chef Aimee Cornejo tends to the lamb and vegetables roasting over a bed of oak wood coals. Opposite: The fruits of a nine-hour cooking day, which included pork, lamb, vegetables, herbs, and traditional Argentine chimichurri sauce.

Chef

ChImIChurrI

The salmuera:

1 cup water

1 tablespoon coarse salt

1 head of garlic, separated into cloves and peeled

1 cup packed fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 cup fresh oregano

2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

To make the salmuera, bring the water to a boil in a small saucepan . Add the salt and stir until it dissolves Remove from heat and allow to cool

Mince the garlic very fine and put in a medium bowl . Mince the parsley and oregano and add to the garlic, along with the red pepper flakes Whisk in the salmuera Transfer to a jar with a tight-fitting lid, and keep in the refrigerator . Best made at least a day in advance The chimichurri can be kept refrigerated for up to 2 to 3 weeks

Aimee enjoys gardening and creating intimate sit-down suppers with seasonal menus for friends when they can truly relax, taste the food, and enjoy the company. “It doesn’t get much better than that.”

Pear-shaped is beautiful

by laurenCe hauben

Pears, a sensuous harbinger of fall, tend to get overlooked, squeezed between the luscious peaches of summer and the uncomplicated crunch of apples Yet this often misunderstood fruit is deliciously versatile and deserves pride of place on our autumnal tables

Many pear cultivars, Bartlett, D’Anjou, Bosc, and the treasured Doyenne du Comice (commercialized in this country as Royal Riviera by Harry & David), are antique varieties, some dating back to medieval times Perhaps because pears don’t enjoy the same broad-based market as apples or strawberries, breeding programs have not bothered to “improve” them, and when cultivated with care, they are still the same full-flavored fruits that were available over a century ago

Two main types of pears are available this time of year:

Asian pears, sometimes called apple pears, are meant to be eaten crisp . Very juicy and sweet, they are enjoyed raw . They shine as a refreshing snack, diced in salads, or sliced thick on a sandwich . I scored high marks when I layered a lightly toasted focaccia with fresh chevre, fig jam, Asian pear, prosciutto, basil, and arugula Stored well-chilled, Asian pears keep for several weeks

European pears are more demanding but reward you with a delicately melting texture and rich flavor They are far more aromatic than Asian pears, and meant to be eaten when tender They ripen from the core outward, so to test a European pear for readiness, press gently near the stem A slight give indicates that the pear is ready to be enjoyed A pear that is soft in its fleshy part is overripe and ready for compost

Serve Comice chilled and peeled for dessert or with artisan cheeses . Roast Bosc and pair it with pork or duck . Poach Bartlett in a light syrup or in spiced wine, add a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of dark chocolate sauce . Bartlett is also the star of this classic French tart

tarte bourdaloue

Pear and almond tart

There are many versions of this classic French tart. This is my interpretation of it. Ingredients for one 11-inch tart, serves 8 to 12

sugar Crust

1 large egg

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

3/4 cup powdered sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

8 oz pastry flour (by weight, not by volume)

5 ounces unsalted butter

Sieve the powdered sugar and flour, separately In a food processor, mix together the egg and butter

Add the sugar and process until mixed Then add the salt and the flour, pulsing as briefly as possible to bring the dough together

Flatten your dough into a disk, and press the dough evenly into the sides of the pan Don’t trim off the top, sugar crust tends to slump when placed

in the oven You can trim it after it has been baked Chill it in the fridge for a minimum of one hour

Preheat your oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit Blind bake, covered with a disk of parchment and baking weights in a preheated oven for about 15 minutes, until lightly colored, before adding the filling .

aLMond CreaM (Frangipane) & pear FiLLing

3 ounces ground blanched almonds

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1/4 cup cream

1/4 cup milk

1/2 cup sugar

scant 1/8 teaspoon almond extract (optional)

2 large eggs

pinch of salt

About 3 Bartlett pears, peeled, cored, and halved, then poached (see below)

1/4 cup sliced almonds

2 tablespoons sugar for dusting

Beat all the frangipane ingredients together until well mixed Pour the filling into the pan Place the poached pear halves on the tart shell, pushing them into the almond cream . Traditionally the pears are sliced crosswise but I prefer the look of pears sliced lengthwise and fanned out . Top with sliced almonds and sprinkle with sugar . Bake at 400 degrees until the tart is golden, about 25 minutes . Serve warm or cold .

Note: to poach the pears, choose pears that are still a bit firm Peel, core, and halve them Prepare a medium syrup (1/2 cup sugar to 1 cup water), bring to a simmer, and gently poach the pears at a simmer for 10 minutes Keep the syrup and use it to make peartinis

grIlled PorK rIbs WIth stICKy mango sauCe

Recipe by Robin Goldstein (Serves 4)

A huge part of making amazing ribs is buying the right kind of meat. Look for meaty spare ribs for this recipe rather than the typical baby back ribs. Spare ribs are taken from the bottom of the ribs, on the underside of the belly of the pig. This is why they are a bigger, meatier cut of meat. With this slow-roasting method on the grill, these ribs come out smokin’ amazing. The sticky mango sauce is a great combination of tropical flavors and the chipotle gives this recipe a smoky chile flavor with a bit of a kick.

2 racks pork spare ribs

sea salt and freshly ground pepper

For the sauCe:

1 cup sherry wine

½ cup soy sauce

¼ cup toasted sesame oil

1 cup mango chutney

1 cup fresh mango, peeled + cut off the pit

2 tablespoons honey

2 green onions, white parts, chopped

1 tablespoon fresh ginger, root chopped

4 garlic cloves

½ teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon chipotle chile powder

1 teaspoon hot sauce, your favorite brand

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

Preheat the grill to 350°F, medium heat Lay the ribs onto a large baking pan, rub the meat all over with 2 teaspoons salt and a few grinds of pepper and place into the preheated grill covered for 30 minutes . Meanwhile, blend all the sauce ingredients in a blender Reduce the temperature of the grill to low and generously baste the ribs with the sauce every 20 minutes or so Slowly ‘roast’ inside the grill for 2 hours, basting and rotating the pan for uniform cooking

We all love the charred flavor of barbecued ribs, cook the ribs covered on the grill until the meat is done, then remove them, turn up the heat and char them on the hot grill for a nice, crusty sear on the outside

Cut the ribs into portions and serve garnished with sliced raw green onion, with some extra sauce on the side

Robin Goldstein is a local private chef and author of 4 local cookbooks who works her culinary magic by combining unique flavors and seasonal ingredients with classic techniques inspired by her extensive travel around the Mediterranean. privatechefrobin.com

Grilled Pork Ribs with Sticky Mango Sauce

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California ridgeback prawns

Tales from the Big Easy

by megan WaldreP

It may sound funny, but one of the reasons I love seafood is that it tastes like other seafood It makes life easier when your favorite fish is out of season or if you’re craving a taste from another part of the country

The California ridgeback prawn is a yummy option because it resembles shrimp but has the texture and taste of a sweet and decadent crawfish You can sauté them in butter to eat right out of the pan or steam them for a few minutes for a peel-’n’-eat meal, which is how my husband and I prepared this batch (pictured) in our tiny Airstream kitchen However, you can give a Creole twist with just a few more ingredients

New Orleans-Inspired BBQ California Ridgeback Prawns*

(*Original recipe is called New Orleans Barbecue Shrimp.)

Toss peeled and deveined prawns with paprika, ancho chili powder, cumin, salt, and a pinch of sugar In a cast-iron skillet, melt about five tablespoons of butter on low to medium heat, then add minced garlic Continue until the prawns are almost done, then add a squeeze of lemon, dashes of Worcestershire sauce, and a splash of water When seasoned to taste, serve over mounds of fluffy rice and top with thinly sliced green onions Or, serve with crunchy bread to

soak up the savory juices Accompany with a butter lettuce salad lightly tossed with olive oil, dijon, avocado, and lemon to brighten the palette .

The California ridgeback prawn season runs from October until the end of May, and you can find commercial fishermen selling fresh ridgeback and spot prawns at the Ventura Farmers Market every Saturday until spring (Pro tip: Buy from your local fishermen and seafood markets for the highest quality catch ) Happy seafood eating and, as they say in New Orleans, Laissez le bon temps rouler — Let the good times roll!

Megan Waldrep

Grill it!

Fall in SB is a great time to fire up the grill! This colorful blend of beefy swordfish grilled perfectly with zucchini, tomatoes, onion and peppers is a delicious way to enjoy. But it doesn’t stop there. Serve it with creamy cilantro cashew dipping sauce and grilled corn and your palate will thank you all year long!

grIlled sWordfIsh vegetable

Kabobs WIth Corn & Creamy

CIlantro CasheW dIP

(Serves 4)

1 lb wild caught swordfish steaks

4 ears of corn in their husks

1 green bell pepper

1 yellow bell pepper

1 red or orange bell pepper

1 yellow squash

1 zucchini

½ cup grape tomatoes

¼ red onion

¼ teaspoon of chili powder

¼ cup olive oil

¼ teaspoon of Himalayan salt

lemon or lime wedges

DIPPING SAUCE:

1 cup raw whole cashews

1 ¼ cup fresh water

1 large handful of cilantro leaves

1 large handful of basil leaves

½ cup mint leaves

¼ cup olive oil

1 garlic clove

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

1 teaspoon Himalayan salt

1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar

3 Tablespoons lemon or lime juice

1 teaspoon of lemon zest or lime zest

For the sauce: Soak the cashews in 1 cup of water for 3 hours After 3 hours drain the water and rinse the cashews . In a blender or food processor add the drained cashews, ¼ cup of water, cilantro, basil, mint, ¼ cup olive oil, garlic, 1/8 teaspoon black pepper, 1 teaspoon Himalayan salt, apple cider vinegar, lemon or lime juice and lemon zest . Set aside until ready to use or store in the refrigerator

For the fish: Slice off any skin from the steaks then slice the fish into 2” cubes In a large zip-lock bag add the cubed fish, ¼ teaspoon chili powder, salt, pepper and ¼ cup olive oil Seal closed then mix around to cover the fish and set it in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes

Meanwhile soak skewers in water for 30 minutes to help prevent them from burning on the grill Also wet the corn with the husks still on

Cut the peppers by removing the tops and seeds then cutting them into chunks Slice the onions into chunks and cut the zucchini and squash into 1-inch slices Now you are ready to make the skewers Start by mixing up the vegetables and about 2-3 fish pieces per skewer and vegetables evenly in-between You will end up with about 6-7 skewers with extra leftover vegetables Use the vegetables to make just vegetable skewers Drizzle the leftover oil in the bag over the skewers and using your hands mix it to coat the vegetables and fish . Preheat the grill and grill the corn on high for 15-20 minutes flipping every 5 minutes . The kernels should be nice and soft but not wrinkly. Wrap in foil until ready to serve .

Grill the skewers on medium heat for 4 minutes and flip for another 3-5 minutes Check the fish after a total of 6 minutes When the fish is done it will be opaque in color and slightly flaky with grill marks

Squeeze lemon or lime on top of the skewers and serve them with the corn and creamy cilantro sauce for dipping and over the corn

Recipe by Danielle Fahrenkrug www.delightfulmomfood.com

Danielle Fahrenkrug

Mole-inspired BBQ sauce with a kick!

Yield 16 ounces

10 mg THC

3 dry guajillo chiles

2 dry ancho chiles

1 chile arbol

1 shallot (quartered)

1/4 cup almonds

1/4 cup pumpkin seeds

1 tablespoon sesame seeds or toasted sesame oil

1/4 cup neutral oil such as avocado

1/4 teaspoon cumin seed

2 cloves

1/4 tsp Mexican oregano

2 5 boiling veg or chicken stock

2 Dose of Saucy Roadies (infused BBQ sauce pictured here)

3/4 cup chopped bittersweet chocolate

1/4 cup maple syrup

Splash of red wine vinegar

Salt to taste

Begin by wiping the dry chiles with a damp cloth, then you may remove the stems and seeds You do this by either pulling their little heads off or using small scissors

Heat high-sided sauté pan, toast nuts and seeds moving constantly until they begin to smell slightly toasty If they get too much color, they will turn bitter so mind that Also, if you’re using sesame oil instead of sesame seeds, you’ll want to reserve that and add it later Place toasted nuts and seeds in heatproof bowl

To the same pan, heat the 1/4 cup of neutral oil Then, briefly toast your chiles in the oil You’ll want to turn them constantly and quickly until they appear bright in color This process is quick, under a minute; too long on the heat turns dry chiles bitter (except árbol, they like a little char)

Remove chiles from the pan and add them to the same bowl as the nuts In the same pan that you removed the chiles from you can toast the cumin, cloves, and char the shallot . Once spices smell fragrant and the shallot is charred add them to the rest of the ingredients in the bowl .

In the same pan (YES THE SAME PAN!) heat up your stock (you can also use water and bouillon) just taste for salt along the way Once boiling pour into the bowl with all your other ingredients At this point sprinkle the

oregano over it, cover, and allow everything to do its thing for about 15 minutes or until it cools down a bit

Once cool, pour everything into a blender and blend until smooth Heat another tablespoon of oil (if using sesame oil you’ll use it here) in that same pan you’ve been using Once oil heats up, but not smoking, pour in your blended salsa Careful it will splatter! Once it’s nice and hot mix in your chocolate, saucy BBQ sauce, and sweetener (I used maple but use what you like!) Take it off the heat but keep stirring until all chocolate has melted Taste for salt and finish with a splash of red wine vinegar

I pour it over charred fennel which makes a great vegetarian entree or an amazing side dish . It’s also fabulous with chicken, beef, or pork too .

Recipe by Andres Alulema, chef and creator of Micuna restaurant in San Francisco. Micuna is a Latin American vegan concept that prides itself in keeping food accessible through a community-funded-pay-what-you-can program. @micunakitchensf

STYLE + DESIGN

Dive into an ocean of tile! Large-format porcelain from Spain made in the likeness of rare agate. The line of tile is Soho Studio, featuring one of the largest diversified collections of mosaic tiles and unique building products. Available at Tileco.

Modern look

TheEMPRESSA

BRIDGE faucet combines traditional bridge characteristics with modern refinements . Vintage, wine-press-inspired dual handles and a functional pull-down spray head define this unique faucet style

Available at Economy Supply. 632 Haley St. www.economysb.com

Shade sailing

Shade sails are a great solution for that special place on your property that could use a little sun relief Custom built to last and made overly stout to handle the “sail” and wind load Made with fade-resistant fabric that breathes instead of locking in the heat .

Available at Van Nuys Awning. www. vannuysawning.com @ vannuysawning

Domecil

by leslIe a. WestbrooK

It’s perfectly “natural” to want to touch everything in Stephanie Payne-Campbell’s lovely home and natural lifestyle boutique, domecíl, tucked into Santa Barbara’s Victoria Court Each and every beautiful and interesting item is made by hand and from natural materials Items are sourced from local makers, as well as from other states (like handmade whisk brooms and leather dust pans from Kentucky) and countries, including carved jacaranda wood spoons from the Congo that show the maker’s hand . There are lovely ceramic bud vases and planters from Carpinterian Laurie Stout and earthy charcoal soap balls (oat

and honey and Sonoran date and clay) and kokedoma, live trees planted in moss balls, handmade from Santa Barbara’s Rafael Adón

“I’m focused on items with integrity,” said Payne-Campbell, who grew up in Santa Barbara and returned in 2020 In between, her travels took her to Paris and San Francisco, and on bi-annual trips to Chilean Patagonia, where she sources baskets from women weavers

Then came many years in Los Angeles with her musician/film industry husband and three children Returning to her SB roots, she opened domecíl in September 2021, after a

successful pop-up on Santa Claus Lane, following friend Alyssa Remington of Folly to help downtown Santa Barbara’s Arts District thrive

It began with aprons designed by Payne-Campbell and grew to “supporting artists ” Her sturdy aprons and linens have enjoyed a strong online and wholesale presence and she recently collaborated with Japanese chef Sonoko Sakai on a beautiful linen apron . She’s also recently expanded the domecíl line to include women’s clothing .

First Thursday events every month are always interesting Sonoko did a recent cooking demo . And there have been

poetry readings, live music, and featured artists including Ray Gabaldon, who creates driftwood spirit figures from Thomas Fire remnants

Many other goodies await discovery: beautiful items for the home, shelter magazines, books of poetry, and a children’s book corner But perhaps the best discovery is Payne-Campbell herself Her taste, passion for connecting people, personal warmth, and good conversation make domecíl well worth seeking out .

domecíl, 1221 State St., Suite 7, (805) 234.4971, www.domecil. com IG @domecil

By hand, beautiful and natural

Photo Eamond McGeough

Stephanie Payne-Campbell

Beautifully Crafted in Vermont of Solid Cherry or Walnut ...

MichaelKate features a wide range of solid hardwood furniture beautifully designed, crafted and made in the United States.

The Astrid bedroom in solid cherry, pictured above, is by Copeland and it is made in Vermont.

This is just one of the extraordinary designs we carry for bedroom, dining and living that are constructed of solid hardwood and crafted in the United States.

Visit MichaelKate to discover a whole new world of beautiful contemporary furniture for your home and office.

Inset: Astrid bedroom shown in solid walnut

SPACES

Kurt Jordan Photography

Bento Box at night; the steel framed floor-to-ceiling windows with large pivot door give the space a precise design. Design by Architect CJ Paone. www.cjpaone.com

Kurt Jordan Photography

Kitchen design and construction by Santa Barbara Design & Build. www.santabarbaradesignandbuild.com

Design available at Santa Barbara Interiors. www.santabarbarainteriors.com

Project designed by Reed Interiors of Santa Barbara. www.rd.homes

Patio space with built in fireplace, constructed with stone materials from Angelus pavers, is an excellent way to finish off your back yard. Designs and construction available from Montecito Landscape. www.montecito-landscape.squarespace.com Angelus paving materials are sold at Goleta Building Materials. www.gbm-goleta.com

Construction and design by Projects General Construction of Santa Barbara. www.projectsgc.com

Modern kitchen design by The Kitchen Company.

Jim Bartsch

The Beauty of Natural Stone

Drought Fighters

Top ten plants for water-wise gardens

by lIsa Cullen

With the majority of State of California experiencing severe drought conditions, the County of Santa Barbara has issued a drought emergency All residents are being asked to reduce water use by 15 percent The easiest way to accomplish this is to reduce water use in your garden However, no matter the demands to reduce water, a garden is meant to bring joy And,

since everyone has different points of view on beauty, don’t select plants only because they are low water, select them because they bring you joy! This list of plants is not meant to be the definitive list; it’s a list of plants I think can be easily combined into a beautiful garden

Here are my top 10 plants for a beautiful, drought tolerant garden

1. Olive trees: There are many varieties of olives and they come in many shapes and sizes Olives are extremely drought-tolerant; in fact they are nearly impossible to kill There’s only one truly fruitless olive, Swan Hill, but there are several low-fruiting varieties: Majestic Beauty and Wilsonii One of my favorite olives is a dwarf appropriately named Little Ollie Little Ollie is truly

Left: Agave attenuata with Santa Barbara Daisy, Calendrinia, Senicio and Salvia for the ultimate in drought tolerant beauty.

fruitless and stays very small and in a rounded shape, making it the perfect choice for topiary gardens and low hedges .

2. Bougainvillea: Bougainvillea is an amazing survivor of drought and is a Santa Barbara staple . Take a walk downtown and there will be bougainvillea in every view . The colors range from pastel to vibrant and suit just about anyone’s taste The only mistake one can make is to let it grow out of control Cut it frequently for the most color

3. Lavender is the quintessential Mediterranean garden plant It demands very little water and in fact they most easily die from over-watering! There are many varieties of lavender including culinary and fragrant types The only thing you need to remember to maintain lavender properly is to cut it back hard once a year If you do that, it will survive many, many seasons

4. Rosemary is a great choice for a low-water garden, they can be trimmed into topiary, made into hedges (as a boxwood replacement) and there’s a low-growing variety that’s perfect for tumbling over rock walls .

5. Salvia (sage) opens the door to a near infinite of beautiful opportunities and there is a myriad of them to choose from the ever-present Mexican sage to California natives like white sage and Cleveland sage Sages are an important addition to any hummingbird or pollinator garden and are magnificently drought tolerant

6. Low-growing border plants: This is a category rather than a single plant These plants are wellsuited to bordering garden paths and patios; Santa Barbara daisy, Nepeta (catmint), Teucrium, thyme, and culinary sage all stay quite low and can be used in various combinations to create fabulous and colorful garden borders

7. California native plants: These are well-suited to drought for obvious reasons They are dormant in the summer when typically, there is no rain and their peak growing season in winter and spring There are so many to choose from, I’d suggest doing your own research Be aware that California natives can be touchy They need good drainage and will perish with over-watering Manzanita, oak, coffee berry, arbutus, ceanothus, toyon are just a few of the options California natives come in many sizes and shapes, from upright to ground cover California natives should be planted in the fall

8. Groundcovers and lawn replacements: There are a few drought-tolerant groundcovers that will suit when you are looking for an expanse of green Falkia repens is a spreading dense green groundcover with bright white flowers in the spring It should be mowed periodically to keep it low and compact . Creeping myoporum is a spreading ground cover

that forms a dense mat of foliage, making it a good choice for use in larger areas where you want green coverage, however it will not withstand foot traffic Dymondia, with its grey-green leaves and yellow flowers stays low and is best suited for small areas as it is susceptible to gopher intrusion

9. Ivy geranium: This traditional Mediterranean plant is a sure thing for year-round color, planted in containers or as ground cover, they come in many different

hues from different pinks, red and white Ivy geraniums are surprisingly drought tolerant and give more joy than they require in terms of maintenance just a bit of dead heading to keep them blooming

10. Succulents: Finally, succulents are the obvious choice for low-water gardens There are thousands of varieties to choose from, a few of my favorites are Calandrinia, Agave attenuata, Senicio, sedums, and aeoniums They work well when planted amongst

boulders and need good drainage

With this pallet of plants, you can create endless combinations of color, textures, and fragrance for a truly drought tolerant garden You won’t ever miss your lawn and other water-thirsty plants

Lisa Cullen, landscape designer and organic gardener, owns Montecito Landscape with her husband, Chris. She can be reached at 805.969.3984 or www.montecitolandscape. com

Dramatic landscaping can be achieved by replacing the lawn with California native plants, hardscapes, succulents, and lighting.

Katie Upton

Bold Beauties

by nanCy ransohoff

“I am still under the impression that there is nothing alive quite so beautiful as a thoroughbred horse.” — John gaLsworthy, twentieth-century English novelist and playwright

Santa Barbara-based artist Katie Upton may agree with Galsworthy, but would probably add the caveat that she finds beauty in all horses “I’ve always loved horses,” said Upton, who grew up surrounded by them at her family’s home in Mission Canyon

Upton has been observing, studying, drawing, and painting horses for decades She earned her BFA and MFA with a focus on painting and drawing at UCSB The artist’s first solo exhibition took place in Los Angeles in 1989; over the years her work has been shown around the country and is collected worldwide Now known as a large-scale equine painter, Upton uses acrylics and drawing mediums in her distinctive bold, vibrant style . Her knowledge and understanding of her equine subjects allow Upton to simplify and distill the figure to its essence and to exaggerate certain features to better capture who they are “Horses are definitely my muse,” said Upton “But they are also a medium to use to push the boundaries of realism and experiment with light, color, negative space, and abstraction You recognize that it’s a horse but there is some exaggeration to it ”

Instead of depicting her horses as part of a landscape, Upton puts them front and center against a background of

solid color “I want to take them out of their environment,” she said “I use multiple horizon lines and viewpoints to express the enormity of my subjects For example, I use the forms of weight-bearing hooves and the edges of the canvas to indicate the ground and anchor the figure .”

The creative process also fascinates Upton, who observed, “I paint like a builder . I’ll put something down, realize it doesn’t work, and have to rebuild it to create a strong composition That element is kind of exciting to me I love backing myself into a corner because then I have to be super creative to solve the problem ”

Many of Upton’s horse subjects gallop from her imagination, but she also works on commissions from clients around the country and abroad “If I can’t meet the horse in person, I ask for about 10 photos taken from different angles,” she said . “Then I come up with my own interpretation . You can kind of get the gist of a horse and a sense of their personality from photos — if they have an attitude, for instance ”

Upton’s work offered in her online store includes original paintings, giclée prints, limitededition prints on metal, posters, greeting cards, and calendars

When asked what she aims to convey in her work, Upton said, “I hope that it makes people happy…that in a sometimes-bleak world, my work brings joy .”

Studio visits are welcome by appointment. www.katieupton. com

Katie Upton in studio with her horses. Opposite: “Magie,” 2021 acrylic on canvas; 72X48.” Above: “Cruz” acrylic on Canvas; 72”X48.” Both paintings commissioned by Barry and Jennifer Waitte, Tamber Bey Winery, Calistoga,CA.

Hank Pitcher

Q + A with Leslie A. Westbrook

Although born in Pasadena in 1949, Hank Pitcher may as well be called a native Santa Barbarian, as he’s lived here most of his life From Miramar Beach (where his iconic Pacific coastline/surf imagery was inspired early on) to downtown Santa Barbara (where he shows his work at Sullivan Goss) to UCSB where he’s been teaching at the College of Creative Studies since 1971 and inspired thousands of students, the painter is well-known, admired and loved He’s also undeniably one of the nicest people on the planet

An avid environmentalist, Pitcher founded the Institute for Landscape Painting, which has brought distinguished visitors from multiple disciplines to the UCSB campus to discuss the evolution of man’s relationship to nature as evidenced in art We asked him a few questions

When did you know you wanted to be an artist?

When I was young, I didn’t know anything about being an artist or about the art world I just wanted to paint pictures and go surfing . As I got older and was exposed to the art world, it felt pretentious to call myself an artist . If a painting is good enough, someone else can call it art . Were you encouraged by your parents?

My parents lived through the Great Depression My dad survived the invasion of Poland by Russia in WWI and he spent all off WW2 in a Japanese Prisoner of war camp, being tortured and starved Having enough to eat, being safe, and being happy was what was important to my parents They supported and encouraged me to do whatever I wanted to do

What medium(s) and scale do you work in?

I paint in oil primarily, from small to mural sizes depending on what I’m going for .

What artists are you influenced by, look up to and/or are inspired by?

In the late 1960s, as a student at the College of Creative Studies, I met many important contemporary artists I studied with Paul Wonner, who was part of the Bay Area Figurative Painting Movement He taught me a lot about that influential movement He also introduced me to In-

dian Miniature paintings After college, I was very fortunate to become close friends with and be mentored by Paul Georges and Charles Garabedian . Through them I got to know many of the major LA and New York painters What influenced me most was how educated they were and how hard they worked, how many hours they put into their work every day. A Buddhist once shared a saying with me: “A large pot takes a long time to make ” Studio: indoor or outdoor?

I work both outdoors and indoors . Where do you go to get inspired in the art world?

I have a serious collection of art books, and I read everything I can, but what interests me is seeing the real thing One summer, my wife Susan and I drove to New York by way of art museums we wanted to visit It made for a long and interesting route, and maybe my all-time favorite trip

As a teacher, what are you most proud of?

When I can say something useful and true

Any pet peeves?

When people copy me .

Do you paint to music and if so, what?

I listen to music while I work . Thelonious Monk, John Adams, Nino Rota, and Howling Wolf, are some of my favorites, but I enjoy a range of music from all times and places . I am interested in how concepts like interval, melody, harmony, consonance, and dissonance can apply to painting

(Top) “Lis Fish”, 2020 (68 x 36 inches, Oil on canvas); “East from Perkos,” February 7, 2006 (24 x 36 inches, Oil on canvas.)

Hank Pitcher is represented by Sullivan Goss Gallery, www.sullivangoss.com

A joyful focused state

Getting Jazzy with Abstract Artist

Marlene

Struss

The titles to painter Marlene Struss’s colorful abstract images offer big clues to some of her work/thought process . There’s “Hot Jazz Jam,” a mixed, swirling palette of eye-popping complementary reds and greens; “Away We Go,” a calm blue amoeba-like swirl that has appeared in the sets of several television programs; and “A Gathering of Friends,” which evokes a walk through the springtime green hills of Santa Barbara

Struss is inspired by jazz while she works, often painting at night, but also cites classical, Indian, African, Japanese and other “wordless music” that allows her imagination to respond to the sounds as integral to her process The UCSB graduate, who studied with Irma Cavat, Howard Warshaw, and Larry Rivers, describes her layered acrylic style as “biomorphic abstract expressionism with an Asian influence” and likens her playful painting process to the “game of life where the

future is unpredictable while the past never completely disappears ”

“I first choose four to five colors and throw down a first layer of paint,” says Strauss “I just need to start After that all my cues come from the painting itself I blow, dab, scratch, wipe, and then the magic happens . It’s not a planned process; it’s improvised, like jazz .”

Whether it’s the bold, eyepopping yellows of “Woke Near the Ocean” or images that evoke a microscopic view, Struss’s work is guaranteed to make you, smile, contemplate and maybe even think a bit deeper about your own unique place in the Universe —Leslie

A. Westbrook

Struss is most excited about her work recently being shown at a new gallery in South Korea, but locally her work can be viewed at 10 West Gallery, 10 West Anapamu Street, Santa Barbara, as well as online at www.marlenestruss.com

F+H GALLERY

SCULPTURES BY SUSAN CRONIN

“Shhh! Listen!” Available in either plaster or bronze.

Dimensions: 3.5”H x 5”W x 7.5”D. www.susanreadcronin.com

Oil on

www.cjamesfineart.com

PAINTING BY CYNTHIA JAMES

“Sea Flower II” 42” x 24”

copper

A smashing success!

by Jeff mIller

What you see is a beautiful burger . What you don’t see is the effort that went into making it appear on your plate at Third Window in downtown Santa Barbara .

“When you smash a hamburger, grease goes everywhere,” said Kristopher Parker, who runs the brewery/restaurant in partnership with his wife, Michellene “It hits the brim of your hat and sticks to your eyelids ”

But there’s something special about smashing a burger, as the technique that’s become a rage attests (“I think it’s the best one there is,” Parker said ) Some people go all technical describing it in terms of the Maillard reaction: what happens when heat hits sugars and proteins But the result is simply this: a crunchy creation of nooks and crannies that burger fans find smashing And Santa Barbara does love its burgers . “Cheeseburgers are to Southern California as sausage is to Germany,” Parker observed .

“I’ve lost about 30 pounds doing this,” Parker said . “It’s incredibly hard work . But if you can find artistry in it, it’s worth it . But you have to make every patty as great as it can be .”

And that’s only the effort behind the burger Beyond that is struggle to create the business (located at The Mill, 406 East Haley Street) in the first place The hurdles were high, including the many months of 2015 it took for the brewery license to be approved

Then came some risk: the decision to take on more rent to access some 2,000 more square feet of the Mill courtyard so patrons could enjoy beer or wine outdoors . Unfortunate timing . Along came the pandemic and its constraints . Burdened with the extra rent, “We felt like closing down the brewery was inevitable,” Parker said

But wait The government mandated outdoor seating, and food had to accompany adult beverages Suddenly the risk became the reward “We got lucky,” Parker noted

The turnabout sent Kris and Michelline into the kitchen to figure out the food, which meant “grabbing some ground beef from the ranch,” Parker said Not just any ranch but the Fess Parker Ranch in Los Olivos (Kris is a grandson of the famous actor) And the beef isn’t just any beef; its wagyu, raised by Kris’s sister, Katie Parker McDonald .

“It all just occurred simultaneously,” Parker said . “It was strange and terrible and wonderful .”

And now the Parkers have hired 26 staffers in addition to tasting room manager Austin Allain and lead brewer Eric Hansen, who were on board from the beginning Along the way, “food has become a really important part,” Parker said “Michellene manages that beast every day and does a fantastic job It’s a lot of work and she’s unbelievable at it The reason is she loves to make sourdough ” She

hand-mixes sourdough pizza dough every day . Pizzas are baked (Mondays and Fridays) in an oven fired by oak foraged from the ranch every Monday

And as for brewing, “I think we’ve got the beer thing figured out,” Parker said A glimpse at the menu speaks to that It ranges from lagers and farmhouse beers to Trappist style, hoppy, and stouts Here’s just one heady description: “West Coast IPA — Citra, Galaxy, and Strata added in multiple hot-side additions, then dry-hopped with steam-distilled fresh hop terpene oil from Azacca and Centennial hops ” And it hops

If you thirst for wine, around the shared Mill courtyard space you’ll find Potek Winery, with its super-premium offerings, plus their Municipal Winemakers line, for a “trendier, younger audience,” Parker said Reflecting on all the interplay among the ranch, the brewery, and the shared space offerings made possible by The Mill, Parker said, “There’s really nothing like it in the entire state .”

Looking back at seven years of struggle and breakthroughs, Parker reflected, “As the old saying goes, it’s darkest just before the dawn We were down to our last hope for the brewery It’s funny how that last hope, food, turned out Funny how constraints become strengths ”

www.thirdwindowbrewing.com

406 East Haley St. 805-979-5090

Photo Eamond McGeough

The Big Note

Carhartt famIly WInes

2019 rebel roan

Blend: 45% Syrah - Carhartt/Rancho Real, 30% Grenache - Santa Ynez Vineyard, 20% Mourvedre - Curtis Vineyard, 5% Petite Sirah - Carhartt Vineyard .

Nose (aromas): sagebrush, black currant, hints of lavender

Flavor (palate): black fruit, coffee bean, dried meat, bittersweet chocolate

Winemaker’s notes: This vintage of Rebel Roan is luscious and dark Decant or let this wine “open up” in the bottle for 30-45 minutes prior to consumption For food pairings, use Mediterranean spices like sage and rosemary, or add olives and red pepper spices to almost any dish Gamey meats or grilled vegetables will link up nicely with the savory characteristics in this wine .

Aging Potential: Now - 2035+

Additional Notes: This wine is playfully named after Mike Carhartt’s strawberry roan horse, “Rebel ” He passed away more than a decade ago, but his legacy is everlasting at Rancho Santa Ynez, as seen in this wine Powerful yet elegant, this wine is as trustworthy as Rebel was for Mike Carharttafamilywines.com

Wine as a lifestyle

Storm Wines melds wine with family

by hana-lee sedgWICK

For nearly two decades, South African winemaker Ernst Storm has built a reputation for producing elegant wines that express the diversity of Santa Barbara County — both for his eponymous label and for the various wine projects he’s involved in Leading with his authentic, conscientious approach, Storm has established a career that goes beyond what’s on his resume; rather, it’s a lifestyle that melds his passions for wine and winemaking with family and community .

Storm first studied winemaking at South Africa’s revered Elsenburg Agricultural School After graduating, he worked at wineries in South Africa’s Stellenbosch and Walker Bay regions before moving to California to pursue an opportunity in the Sierra Foothills In 2005, longing to work with cool-climate grapes like he had in South Africa’s Western Cape, Storm made his way to Santa Barbara, taking an assistant winemaking job at Firestone Winery, and later Curtis Winery . “I didn’t know much about the area, but I wanted to experience a harvest somewhere new,” said Storm “Santa Barbara County seemed to have similar climatic conditions to parts of South Africa ”

In 2006, inspired by the diversity of the vineyards in the Santa Ynez Valley, Storm launched his own label on the side, starting with just six barrels of pinot noir Seven years later, while working at Curtis Winery, he decided to venture out on his own so he could put all his efforts into Storm Wines

From the start, Storm’s goal

has been to work with vineyards that show a lot of diversity and personality in order to craft classically styled wines that speak to a specific place and region “I set out to make wines that showcased a certain style, favoring elegance and pure varietal character over power and punch,” he said . “Sourcing from quality vineyards is an essential part of that philosophy . If you start with good fruit, then you shouldn’t have to manipulate it ”

Finding his sweet spot with sauvignon blanc, pinot noir, and syrah from great sites, Storm slowly grew production to the 3,000 cases annually he makes today — a number he was careful not to reach too quickly “Storm has grown significantly but organically over the years,” he explains “Keeping my production smaller has allowed me to stay hands-on in every part of the process, which is impossible to do if you get too big .”

Staying small in size has also provided the opportunity for Storm’s family to get involved in the brand . His wife, Brooke, now focuses on running the Storm Wines tasting room, which they opened in Los Olivos at the start of the pandemic Their children, Elsa and Owen, not only occasionally accompany Dad in the vineyard and cellar, but create artwork that adorns some of the labels “We are a family-run business in every sense of the word,” Storm said, adding: “Opening a tasting room in the early days of the pandemic was challenging, as you can imagine, but we got through it by staying authentic to who we are and what we want to create as a

family Every person who tastes with us, every person who buys a bottle is sharing a piece of us We are very fortunate to be making wine in Santa Barbara County, and thrilled to be part of the Los Olivos community ”

In addition to making the wines he and his family pour at their two-year-old tasting room — where the Storms host regular burger nights, wine dinners, and other fun events not just for club members but for the community-at-large—Storm keeps busy as the winemaker for

the family-owned Donnachadh and Grimm’s Bluff wineries He’s also the winemaker for Notary Public, a wine partnership with Acme Hospitality’s Sherry Villanueva; winemaker for Cape D’Or, a South African wine label he started with two friends; and consulting winemaker on a few smaller projects . “Being able to create a career you enjoy, that keeps you on your toes, allows you to grow as a person, and work alongside friends and family There’s truly nothing better ”

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Editor’s Choice

Paul Lato “Il Padrino” Syrah ($95)

Winemaker Paul Lato, who is celebrating the 20th anniversary of his eponymous label, is most known for his Burgundian varietal wines, but the breadth of his skillset extends far beyond chardonnay and pinot noir His “Il Padrino” Syrah, sourced from the famed Bien Nacido Vineyard, is a masculine, savory wine that reveals loads of character with each sip Showcasing black pepper, dark berries, violets, iron, and gamey notes, this complex syrah is sure to be a knockout with a fine cut of steak, but if possible, save some for after your meal to sip on well into the night . It’s a pleasurable wine with powerful, yet elegant nuances that evolve over time in the glass .

Peake Ranch Chardonnay ($55)

This expressive chardonnay is

Elevate your next BBQ

7 IMPRESSIVE WINES FOR SIPPING AL FRESCO THIS FALL

by hana-lee sedgWICK

a blend of the most interesting barrels from Peake Ranch Vineyard, featuring grapes that winemaker Wynne Solomon selects from different blocks of clones . Enticing aromas of lemon, stone fruit, and honeysuckle lead to refreshing notes of citrus, sea salt, and crushed stones on the palate, and although the wine is inherently fresh and bright, Malolactic fermentation and oak aging impart creaminess to the mouthfeel Delightful on its own, the Peake Ranch Chardonnay is also incredibly food-friendly; try it with grilled shrimp, salmon, or chicken for the perfect pairing

Penville Enz Vineyard

Mourvèdre ($45)

For his Mourvèdre, winemaker Patton Penhallegon sources fruit from Enz Vineyard, located in San Benito County’s Lime Kiln Valley . Here, the organically grown vines are dry farmed and

over 100 years old – and home to some of the oldest Mourvèdre vines in North America . This unfined and unfiltered red was fermented in a large concrete egg before spending 20 months in neutral oak barrels, resulting in a compelling bottling just as unique as its site With notes of ripe cherries, wild berries, baking spices, and sandalwood, as well as soft tannins and a welcome layer of acidity, this interesting, foodfriendly wine will complement a variety of grilled foods, from chicken to hamburgers

Kimsey Grenache ($72)

The stunning 22-acre Kimsey Vineyard, situated in Ballard Canyon, is a prime location for growing Rhône grapes, which winemaker Matt Dees makes into beautiful wines of power and grace . Though syrah dominates its acreage, Kimsey’s grenache shouldn’t be overlooked Offering

notes of red fruit, rose petal, cigar box, and pepper, this striking wine has a silky texture and persistent finish that’s hard to resist Serve it alongside barbecued meats, such as grilled lamb, pork, or sausage, to impress your friends at your next gathering

A Tribute to Grace Santa Barbara County Grenache ($33)

Winemaker Angela Osborne is a champion of California grenache

Since establishing A Tribute to Grace in 2007, which she named after her grandmother, grenache has been her label’s singular focus While most known for her single-vineyard grenache wines (sought after for their ethereal, nuanced characters), this particular grenache – featuring a blend of different sites in the Santa Barbara County AVA – is an excellent introduction to her delicate winemaking style

Offering red berries, cedar, mint, and exotic spices, along with sublime structure and generous acidity, it’s a lovely wine to serve alongside barbecued foods Try it with grilled

grilled or smoked . Beef, pork sausage, and game are all natural choices, but it’s versatile enough to pair with vegetables, such as grilled or smoked mushrooms

lamb, beef brisket, or grilled chicken .

Epiphany Rodney’s Vineyard Petite Sirah ($40)

This dark, inky wine from Epiphany Cellars is sourced from the SIP Certified Rodney’s Vineyard, located on the Fess Parker Home Ranch Packed with vibrant aromas of smoked meat, baking spice, plum sauce, and tar, it’s balanced by flavors of dried herbs, chocolate, and dark fruit on the palate Compelling on its own, this textural wine by winemaker Blair Fox and team really shines when paired with richer, fattier foods, especially when

Grimm’s Bluff Estate Sauvignon Blanc ($38) A nod to the mineraldriven whites of the Loire Valley, France, this sauvignon blanc from the beautiful, biodynamically farmed Grimm’s Bluff Vineyard charms with aromas of citrus, tropical fruit, and crushed rocks On the palate, tantalizing layers of green apple and lime make way for a zesty backbone of minerality that lingers deliciously on the tongue Serve this crowd-pleasing wine, made by winemaker Ernst Storm, with any lighter barbecue fare, from lightly grilled white fish to grilled octopus, pork tenderloin to asparagus

"Totem" by Keith Haring

LUSH LIFE

More than just a collection of recipes for food and drinks from the garden, Lush Life includes what, when and how to plant a garden that will feed and inspire all year round . In her debut book, Santa Barbara author Valerie Rice brings together her favorite seasonal dishes for entertaining, family meals, snacks, and so much more, including cocktail recipes and, above all great wine advice! Available at Chaucer’s Books 3321 State St.

ADMIRAL DOUBLE OPENER CORKSCREW

Why shouldn’t corkscrews do more? The Admiral integrates a classic bottle opener, double-hinged arm and five-turn helix, then adds a graspable foil cutter, power bottle opener and polished wood inlay to its handle Built like a battle ship, too It will live forever $19 to $28 depending on size Available at Meritage Wine Store. 18 West Anapamu.

JULISKA CHLOE DECANTER

New from Juliska! Whether you are hosting a tasting party with friends or opening a celebratory vintage for a special occasion, this decanter does the work with avant-garde flair and a bit of drama

A striking addition to any entertaining enthusiast’s repertoire, it also makes a fabulous gift Measurements: 8 .0”W x 11 0”H x 8 .0”L Made in: Czech Republic Made of Glass . Available at Coast 2 Coast Collection www.Coast2CoastCollection. com, 805-845-7888

24 BLACKBIRDS

The Chocolate Gift Bundle includes your choice of 16 beautiful and indulgent hand-painted truffles, plus a 5-pack of half-ounce single origin artisan chocolate bars Available at www. twentyfourblackbirds. com

MARGERUM M5

Rich and savory notes of Margerum M5 Reserve always makes for a great corporate and holiday party gift

Available at Margerum Tasting Room 19 East Mason across from the California Hotel. 805-845-8435

Wine+Dine

The perfect pair

HOLDREN’S STEAKHOUSE BURGER.

Topped with melted bleu cheese and spicy house made onion straws, this sandwich is one of the best true steak-house burgers on the Central Coast . Pair it with Lagunitas Hazy Wonder IPA or a glass of Grassini Cabernet Sauvignon, Happy Canyon . www.holdrens.com

In pursuit of perfection

by bob Wesley

I’ve yet to attend the absolutely perfect wine tasting Perhaps such an event will never occur, since I’m flying headlong into my remaining golden years and time is of the essence . This is all despite having long been part of an exceptional end-of-year dinner where the quality of the offerings is theoretically world-class due to the benevolence of generous friends with deep cellars .

Though the last get-together was extraordinary, there were several bottlings of unquestionably 24-karat notoriety that were also unquestionably disappointing

I know that I’ll never be totally happy until my notes read as follows:

Chateau Monumental 2017 Chardonnay... Truly, the alpha and omega of Sonoma Burgundian varietals, this ethereal nectar enchanted from across the room like a bejeweled debutante bathed in aromatherapy candlelight. Thrilling, yet gossamer-like, with greater complexity than Einstein’s grocery list, it spoke of toasted Malayan yellow dwarf coconut, rose quartz-like minerality, and the delirious maelstrom of flavors from a $1,000 Dean and Deluca fruit basket. The texture was at once feathery and firm, with spinetingling textural profligacy. I wailed and cried in disbelief at its wondrousness, and almost rent my clothes as well, but was wearing my favorite knockoff Armani jacket.

Mount Brooding 2014 Pinot Noir... A garnet-colored

revelation with an effusive, apocalyptic perfume of rose petal, toasted cinnamon, salacious bing cherry and an intimation of Provençale animal paddock, this olfactory temptress seduces all five senses: Yes, it rated a “98” just for its stunning sound when poured into stemware. It besieged the mind, coated the palate and electrified the assembled group to the extent that a fistfight erupted when “Larry”attempted to Bogart the contents of the decanter. It is pointless to uncork another Pinot Noir ever again ... I am ruined for life. I even stopped using contractions.

Summa Cum Laude 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon... Absolutely stunning color precluded the need to even sample this otherworldly beverage. A stupefying bouquet of violets, leather and indecently concentrated cassis prompted me to turn away in embarrassment, with a feeling of unworthiness and self-loathing at having dared penetrate this elixir’s profundity. I could not bring myself to taste it; it was unspeakably stellar.

May you experience one immaculate bottle in your lifetime

“This bistro shines with gourmet food at everyday prices and remains an absolute must in SB for creative fare, illuminating wines; charming decor, a satisfyingly buzzy ambiance and exceptional service —Zagat Survey

PETIT VALENTIEN

Local black cod with lemon herb sauce.

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JANE RESTAURANT

Bay scallop salad with local favorite, Storm Winery sauvignon blanc.

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1 . SAVOY CAFÉ & DELI • Chef Kathy’s scratch-made protein granola and Greek yogurt . Top it with fresh berries and pair it with fresh squeezed O J www savoycafe weebly com 2 SCARLETT BEGONIA • Classic Eggs Benedict with buttermilk biscuit, beeler ham, poached eggs, hollandaise, grained potatoes, arugula scarlettbegonia net 3 BEDDA MIA • Cassateddi in Broru: Housemade sheep’s milk ricotta agnellotti, lamb consommé, pecorino . Pair with Gillo, a Sicilian dry white wine . www beddamiasantabarbara .com . 4 OPAL RESTAURANT AND BAR • Fish tacos paired with Foley Winery Chardonnay www opalrestaurantandbar com

Squaring things up

by Jeff mIller

Among other things, the corner of Milpas and East Canon Perdido streets has long been famous for a cow . Not just any cow, but the beloved plaster “Old Bossy,” on her proud perch atop the 1939 building since the creators of the Live Oak Dairy put her there

Since then the cool Art Deco building has been many things, but Old Bossy remained until, one sad day in 2020, she fell due to old age and shattered Now, however, the place has a new claim to fame: square doughnuts

“I just started doing it on a whim,” said Christina Olufson, who has owned and operated Bossie’s Kitchen in partnership with

her wife, Lauren Herman, since opening in 2019 . “I had some brioche dough left over so I thought I’d make doughnuts .” But not, you know, round doughnuts? “I wanted more yield so I cut them into squares .” Also, “I just thought it was fun . Different .”

Olufson didn’t know it would catch on but it did, due not only to the quirkiness but also the deliciousness She offers an array of glazes, using seasonal fruit as guide Her favorite: Santa Rosa plum glaze garnished with black sesames “The chocolate glaze with salted almond toffee is also popular,” she said

So what started as a whim is getting serious People are lining up for them when they come hot out of the oven, usually around noon

That’s only one of the interesting offerings at Bossie’s Kitchen While Olufson runs the pastry side, including the brioche burger rolls, etc ., Herman handles the equally captivating savory side . Consider the Thursday night special: grilled shrimp in lemongrass curry with bok choy, mint, cilantro, and peanuts over jasmine rice Then there are the unique salads and sandwiches, including the Korean fried chicken sandwich with sesame slaw and gochujang sauce, a major hit

There may be whims at work in Bossie’s Kitchen, but underlying them is serious culinary experience Among other postings,

Herman and Olufson were luminary LA chefs at the famed Lucques Group restaurants and AOC, both under James Beard Awardwinning chef Suzanne Goin . Eventually they decided it was time to strike out on their own

“For five years we never found anything that felt quite right,” Olufson said “But we always kept our eyes out Then we saw this place We loved the location, and the building has a lot of charm It felt right for us ” (And right for other reasons, including this: The place has become a popular dinner spot for those on their way to shows at the nearby Santa Barbara Bowl )

Santa Barbara wasn’t exactly a whimsical choice Herman grew up in Pasadena, and Olufson in Ventura County As a kid, “We always came to Santa Barbara in the summer,” Olufson said . “Dad worked at UCSB . He loved the drive up, believe it or not ” So when the idea of Herman and Olufson venturing out of LA arose, “We thought the move to Santa Barbara could be great,” she said .

The timing was right for the chefs but not for the planet . “It was right before COVID,” Olufson said “At least we had a year under our belts That made it a little easier It was still plenty challenging, but at least we were a little established We’re grateful our customers rallied around ” www.bossieskitchen.com.

“I had some brioche dough left over so I thought I’d make doughnuts.” But not, you know, round doughnuts? “I wanted more yield so I cut them into squares.”

—Owner Christina Olufson

Michael and Margene Mooney, Chateau Margene, with Steve Harding, EVP, Regional President for SLO County

MOONEY, CHATEAU MARGENE