Food & Home Magazine - Fall 2020

+ FOOD HOME M

PLUS: MARGERUM’S M-5 EDNA VALLEY ESCAPE STATE STREET SPARKLE LEGEND OFARNONDI’S KITCHEN DESIGNS RECIPES AND MORE!

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ON THE COVER

ODE TO THE OYSTER Love ’em or leave ’em, these delicacies aren’t all the same . . . 32

F E AT U R E S

Captivated by Cambria Winery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Good morning, Savoy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Winemaker Doug Margerum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Let’s Toast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Weekend excursion to Edna Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

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Arnoldi’s: History Set in Stone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Downtown Sparkle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Cooking with Cannabis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Home Chef . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Pizza Al Picante . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Home Style . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Designer Notebook: Colleen Macy . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Kitchens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Santa Barbara Studio Artists . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 In the Garden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 The Last Page . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66

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TRENDS

DOWNTOWN SPARKLE Without cars, State Street is cruising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

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M ONTECITO KITCHENS ITCHENS M ONTECITO K MONTECITO KITCHENS Custom Designed Cabinetry Cabinetry Custom Designed Cabinetry

Quality & Craftsmanship Quality & Craftsmanship Quality & Craftsmanship Montecito Kitchens customizes a plan for your exact space, style, and budget.

Montecito Kitchens customizes a plan for your exact space, style, and budget.

Montecito Kitchens customizes a plan for your exact space, style, and budget.

Montecito Kitchens is an accomplished design and construction firm delivering skilled and proven Montecito Kitchens is an accomplished design and construction firm delivering skilled and proven Montecito Kitchens is an to accomplished and construction firm delivering skilled and proven . craftsmanship from start finish. Ourdesign workmanship is guaranteed.

References are gladly furnished craftsmanship from start to finish. Our workmanship is guaranteed. References are gladly furnished. craftsmanship from start to finish. Our workmanship is guaranteed. References are gladly furnished.

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Winery - Tasting Room - Wine Bar

Publisher & President

Philip Kirkwood phil@food-home.com Dining & Copy Editor

Jeff Miller Wine Editor

Hana-Lee Sedgwick Travel Editor

Leslie A. Westbrook Contributors

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Raymond Bloom Angela Borda Christine Cowles Lisa Cullen Danielle Fahrenkrug Lynette La Mere Corina Sylvia Photography

Jim Bartsch Michael Brown Joshua Curry Eliot Crowley Mehosh Dziadzio Braulio Godinez Ashley Hardin Chuck Place Kim Reierson Corina Schweller Alexander Siegel Shelly Vinson

Contact Information

P.O. Box 20025, Santa Barbara, CA 93120 (805) 455-4756 www.food–home.com Food and Home (ISSN# 1533-693X) is published quarterly by Metro Inc. and single copies are provided to selected homeowners free of charge. Unless otherwise noted, all photographs, artwork, and designs printed in Food & Home are the sole property of Metro Inc. and may not be duplicated or reprinted without Metro Inc.’s express written permission. Food & Home and Metro Inc. are not liable for typographical or production errors or the accuracy of information provided by advertisers. Readers should verify advertised information with the advertisers. Food & Home and Metro Inc. reserve the right to refuse any advertising. Food & Home® is a registered trademark of Metro, Inc. Copyright © 2019. All inquiries may be sent to: Metro Media Services, P.O. Box 20025, Santa Barbara, CA 93120, or call (805) 455-4756, or e-mail: info@food-home.com. Unless otherwise noted, all photographs, artwork, and designs printed in Food & Home are the sole property of Metro Inc. and may not be duplicated or reprinted without Metro Inc.’s express written permission. Food & Home and Metro Inc. are not liable for typographical or production errors or the accuracy of information provided by advertisers. Readers should verify advertised information with the advertisers.

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FIRSTS

Captivated by Cambria Winery A Q&A with winemaker Jill Russell by

Hana-Lee Sedgwick

S

ince 1986, family-owned Cambria Estate Winery has remained dedicated to producing chardonnay and pinot noir from its idyllic, sustainably farmed estate in Santa Barbara’s Santa Maria Valley AVA. Situated just 15 miles from the Pacific Ocean, the 1,600-acre property benefits from cooling maritime influences that prove ideal for growing Burgundian varieties (some grown on vines that date back to the 1970s) and other cool-climate grapes.

I caught up with winemaker Jill Russell to learn about what makes this estate so special, and why she’s proud to carry on the Cambria tradition for the Jackson family.

How long have you been with Cambria?

I’ve been the winemaker for three years, and am looking forward to my fourth harvest working with our amazing team. The vineyard and winemaking teams have been with Cambria for a very long time. Two of our guys just celW W W. F O O D – H O M E . C O M

ebrated 30 years and the average tenure is 20 years. I’m for sure the newbie but I see myself here the rest of my winemaking career.

That’s amazing to have found your dream job! So, what led you to pursue winemaking as your career?

I worked at a winery in high school as a server and fell in love with the food and wine world.

I had heard about Cal Poly’s Wine and Viticulture major and thought it was perfect for me. While attending Cal Poly I took a quarter off to work a harvest at a local winery. I tried to learn every aspect and couldn’t stop asking questions. I just knew it was meant for me.

What is your favorite thing about working with grapes grown in the Santa Maria Valley?

I’ve been making wine from Santa Maria Valley grapes since I graduated Cal Poly and it is such a special region. Its east-west running

valley allows for fog and coastal breezes to create a long, even growing season, perfect for chardonnay and pinot noir. We’re lucky our wines from this area have something other than fruit, like savory Santa Maria spice in the pinot noir and salinity in the chardonnay.

Cambria produces 100 percent estate wines from the property’s four vineyards. What would you say makes these vines so special?

Working with vines that are almost 50 years old has been a career highlight for me. It’s been fun discovering what all the individual blocks on our estate bring to a blend, as different soil types, vine ages, rootstocks, clones, and elevations allow us to produce incredible expressions of the same grape. We believe winemaking starts in the vineyard, and our vineyard team is focused on precision farming. All of our vineyards are SIP-certified and CCSW-certified, and we’re committed to being good stewards of our land.

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While the focus is on pinot noir and chardonnay, you also work with other varieties. Do you have a preferred grape or clone that you like to work with?

We make several chardonnays and several pinot noirs, and even clone specific pinot noirs that can be really educational. We also make a viognier and a syrah that are a little under the radar but magnificent. I never like to say that I have a favorite clone because they all bring something to a blend, but some of our clone-4 blocks on our estate (both chardonnay and pinot noir) were planted in 1971, so they are really special to work with. Not only do they make distinct wines but are also very majestic to see and walk through.

If someone could only try one wine that really captures the spirit and essence of Cambria Winery, which would you say it should be?

I would say Katherine’s Vineyard Chardonnay. Ninety percent of this Chardonnay is made from the vines I keep talking about that are almost a half a century old. It has the tropical fruit that Santa Maria Valley is known for, balanced with bright acidity and a touch of oak.

Do you have a favorite pairing with any of Cambria’s wines?

My favorite pairing is any seafood, like crab or shrimp scampi, with Katherine’s Vineyard Chardonnay, but you also can’t go wrong with Santa Maria Tri Tip and our Julia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir.

Santa Barbara County is known for its large percentage of female winemakers. What would you say is the best thing about being a woman in wine in this region?

The support group that women in wine have here is exciting. I’m surrounded by colleges and friends who have each others’ back and are always willing to lend a hand or answer a question. I’m lucky to work for a female-owned and -led winery. Barbara Banke, our proprietor, and her daughters Katherine and Julie are inspiring. Denise Shurtleff, our general manager who was the winemaker before me, has been someone I’ve looked up to for many years. Our team is full of dynamic women that are hardworking, driven, passionate people that have become close friends of mine.

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Photo by Chuck Place

(continued)

Good morning, sunshine

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recent breakfast at Savoy reminded me why the café has been one of Santa Barbara’s favorite places to start the day for 16 years. (Fun fact: the eatery was originally called the Savoy Truffle after a Beatles song.)

With husband and wife owners Paul and Kathy Shields at the helm, and their four sons also on the team, Savoy offers a cozy, friendly vibe and fresh, crave-worthy dishes like fluffy scrambles, Benedicts, house-made high-protein granola, and vegetarian and vegan options, made mostly with organic ingredients.

The welcoming dining area includes long wooden communal tables of fit folks after a run or bike ride, families, couples, and friends meeting for a catch-up. Order at the counter, take your number and have a seat, sipping a Handlebar coffee or espresso drink, organic tea or, why not, a mimosa, and listening to the Hawaiian slack key guitar on the playlist while you wait (not long) for your order.

Try the Citrus-Dipped French Toast, which, notes Paul Shields, was “inspired by our backyard orange trees. The kids, when they were younger and not running the restaurant, would pick a few oranges each, run in the house and beg me to make it. With baguettes dipped in a batter of fresh-squeezed OJ, cinnamon, sugar, and eggs, it’s one of our most popular items.” There’s also a version made from Kathy’s house-made gluten-free bread.

Says Shields, “The All-Day Breakfast Burrito [a hearty combo of organic eggs, potatoes, cheese, and avocado wrapped in a tortilla with house-made salsa] is such a popular item we had to offer it from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.!” – Nancy Ransohoff Savoy Café & Deli, 24 W. Figueroa St., Santa Barbara, phone: (805) 962-6611, www.savoycafe.weebly. com. Savoy offers breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and is known for its award-winning salad bar.

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Rhône Inspiration Winemaker Doug Margerum finds inspiration from France for his M5 wines

By Hana-Lee Sedgwick

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or over 35 years, Doug Margerum has been ingrained in Santa Barbara’s food and wine scene, first as owner of the Wine Cask and now in his ongoing role as owner/winemaker of two wine labels, Margerum Wine Company and Barden, established in 2001 and 2014, respectively. Sourcing grapes from top vineyards throughout Santa Barbara County, as well as from the 18-acre Margerum Estate Vineyard in the Los Olivos District AVA, Margerum crafts limited-production Rhône and Burgundian varietal wines and blends that express the diverse characteristics of the region.

Inspired by the Southern Rhône region of France, Margerum launched his flagship M5 series. The 2018 Margerum M5 Red is a blend featuring five leading red grapes of the Rhône 20

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Valley: grenache, syrah, mourvèdre, cinsault, and counoise. Made predominantly of grenache and syrah, this versatile wine showcases dark fruit and cocoa aromatics, with black fruit, savory herbs, and earthy notes on the palate.

Also modeled after the noteworthy blends of the Rhône, the 2018 M5 White consists of five white grapes: grenache blanc, marsanne, roussanne, viognier, and picpoul. Appealing aromas of citrus, white flowers, and pear leap from the glass, while flavors of apple, stone fruit, and wet stone envelop a clean layer of acidity that lingers on the refreshing finish.

“My goal has always been for M5 wines to find the right balance of being elegant and complex, yet also bright and approachable enough to enjoy any time,” Margerum said. “To that end, M5 wines have become ‘go-to’ wines,

as they drink well with every occasion and are versatile enough for many types of cuisines.”

Though not technically part of the M5 line-up, Margerum’s Riviera Rosé is a natural complement, typically composed of five Rhône grapes. Mimicking the style of rosés found in Provence, this dry and easy-drinking grenache-based wine shines with notes of watermelon, lime, and white nectarine, with a zesty dose of acidity that makes it the perfect accompaniment to sunshine-filled days, with or without food. Margerum calls it “an all-around great wine to reach for, our Riviera Rosé is equally as worthy of being enjoyed beside the pool as it is during an elegant, al fresco luncheon.”

Margerum Wine Company’s tasting room is located at 19 E. Mason Street in Santa Barbara.

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Let’s Toast Five wines on our radar this fall

By Hana-Lee Sedgwick

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very issue, we’re featuring five wines on our radar, whether new releases, cellar-worthy selections, or simply bottlings fit for the season. Here are five wines our team is coveting right now: Storm Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($25) Leading with grapefruit and tropical fruit on the nose, this crowd-pleasing wine showcases bright citrus and melon flavors followed by a touch of grassiness on the refreshing yet textural finish. Drink now.

Tolosa Poletti Edna Ranch Chardonnay 2018 ($93) Aromas of wet stone, Meyer lemon, and hazelnut give way to notes of key lime, pear, and stone fruit on the palate, enhanced by a rich, uplifting structure that encapsulates the Edna Valley. Drink within five years.

Fess Parker Ashley’s Pinot Noir 2017 ($60) Aromas of dark cherry, clove, and forest floor carry through to a nuanced, savory mid-palate, which finishes with sumptuous richness.

Enjoy over the next five years.

Dusty Nabor Grenache Spear Vineyard 2018 ($33) Notes of spice, violets, and tart red fruit are woven throughout this elegant medium-bodied wine, which reveals a backbone of acidity and mineral-driven characters so typical of the Sta. Rita Hills AVA. Sip now or within a few years.

Crown Point Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($150) Richly layered with notes of dark fruit, spice, and violets, this Happy Canyon Cabernet possesses a powerful energy and seamless texture that makes it easy to enjoy now, but the wine will surely benefit from a decade or more in the cellar.

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Grape Escape Weekend excursion to Edna Valley

By Hana-Lee Sedgwick

S

ituated between San Luis Obispo and Pismo Beach just five miles from the Pacific Ocean, Edna Valley is recognized as California’s coolest wine region. Here, pinot noir and chardonnay shine, though diverse microclimates and soil types allow for a range of grapes to flourish, from albariño to syrah. With over a dozen tasting rooms, scenic views, and welcoming hospitality, Edna Valley is a worthy weekend destination less than two hours from Santa Barbara. Here are our picks of where to eat, sip, and sleep while visiting.

Where to Stay San Luis Obispo, just a 10-minute drive from Edna Valley’s wineries, makes for a great home base while exploring the region. The 65-room

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Hotel Cerro is the newest luxury hotel to open downtown, offering guests a casual yet sophisticated urban setting. Book one of the spacious Garden Suites, featuring a deep soaking tub and an outdoor patio with direct access to the hotel’s edible gardens, and take advantage of the numerous amenities, including a full-service spa, restaurant, distillery, and rooftop pool complete with 360-degree views of the area. Also new and noteworthy is the Hotel SLO, where you’ll find two restaurants, a spa, a pool, and a playful, modern aesthetic that matches the area’s laid-back vibes.

If you’re hoping to stay in Edna Valley among the vines, there are a variety of bed-and-breakfasts, vineyard inns, and vacation rentals to choose from. The original farmhouse at Claiborne & Churchill is now a W W W. F O O D – H O M E . C O M

restored cottage that sleeps up to four people, while Biddle Ranch Winery’s rustic-modern, four-bedroom rental is a great option for groups. MarFarm, a former dairy barn turned 3,000-square-foot luxury getaway, stands out for its chic ambiance, gourmet kitchen, and bocce ball court, with the added bonus of being able to see farm animals right outside your door.

Where to Sip From elevated, seated tastings to casual, walk-in tastings with bucolic settings, Edna Valley features several options for wine lovers. Book an appointment at the picturesque Edna Valley Vineyard to enjoy one of several tasting experiences, from vineyard walks to wine and food pairings. At nearby Tolosa, known for estate and single-vineyard pinot noir, walk-ins are always welcome at the expansive tasting bar, but on a nice day their large patio overlooking the SIP-certified vineyards is the place to be.

The first winery to plant vines in the Edna Valley in 1973, Chamisal Vineyards is another worthy destination, where you’ll find a friendly staff and a sun-drenched patio providing views of their sustainably farmed vines. Down the road, sister property, Malene, offers a casual al fresco setting from which to sip, complete with a 1969 Airstream that acts as a mobile tasting room serving rosé on tap.

At the family-operated Kynsi Winery, a dog- and kid-friendly outdoor tasting space creates a relaxed ambiance for sampling pinot noir, syrah, and red blends, while across the street, the appointment-only Center of Effort crafts estate-grown Burgundian varietals. Book one of two in-depth tasting experiences for a comprehensive look at the winery and their commitment to sustainability.

Lastly, family-owned and -operated Talley Vineyards specializes in estate-grown wines from their six vineyards throughout SLO County. A spacious tasting room and scenic picnic areas add to the inviting atmosphere.

Where to Eat For locally sourced breakfast fare, check out Mint + Craft in downtown SLO, or head to Sally Loo’s for hearty yet wholesome brunch offerings. At the Hotel Cerro’s Brasserie SLO, Mediterranean-inspired dishes utilize ingredients grown in the edible garden, cooked over the wood-fired grill and wood-burning oven. Just be sure to make room for dessert at Sweet Life of Pie, the hotel’s in-house pie shop.

For a romantic al fresco setting, Novo Restaurant & Lounge’s creekside patio is the perfect place to savor the restaurant’s globally influenced fare. Or, for a more buzzing local scene, head to the S.Low Bar at Hotel SLO, where you can order mouthwatering food from the hotel’s Piadina restaurant (such as truffle fries and crispy steak egg rolls) and wash it all down with a craft cocktail.

Also worthy of a visit is Mason Bar & Kitchen, located in the quaint town of Arroyo Grande just south of Edna Valley’s wineries, featuring a wide range of shareable plates and comforting mains for brunch, lunch, and dinner.

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Photos retouched by Mehosh Dziadzio

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Arnoldi’s: History set in stone

by Jeff

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Miller

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estaurants aren’t the easiest businesses to keep sizzling. Too many times we see a beloved bistro disappear overnight, leaving only delicious memories behind.

So it’s all the more impressive when a place finds a way to make it over the long haul. Like, for instance, Arnoldi’s Café in downtown Santa Barbara, now in its 80th year.

What might have foreshadowed Arnoldi’s long run might have been its feisty start. “My granddad was quite a guy,” said Ugo “Butch” Arnoldi, a 46-year veteran of the Santa Barbara County Sheriff ’s Dept. In 1936, Giuseppe “Joe” Arnoldi, a stonemason, and his wife, Ilda, negotiated a lease with the Signor family to operate their restaurant, La Gondola, at 421 East Cota. The Arnoldis ran it for almost four years but they ran it too well. After those years the owners took over and later changed the name to “Mom’s Italian Village.”

“So, being the businessman he was, [Giuseppe] said the heck with you, went down the street and built his own restaurant,” said his granddaughter Jeanette Arnoldi. He built this one to last, with the distinctive golden Santa Barbara sandstone he dug himself from a quarry in Refugio Canyon. To make room for the restaurant at 600 Olive St., he paid $2,100 for three properties, which got him a lot for his new restaurant, plus a house for his family and one to rent out to friends. With the help of a handful of other stonemasons, he had “Joe Arnoldi’s Café” up and running fast. “People will not believe [the speed],” Butch said. From securing the permit in February 1940 to opening in May, “three months from bare ground to serving the first meal.” Said Jeanette, “Everybody was totally amazed.”

A little over five years later Giuseppe bought his own quarry beside Windy Gap off San Marcos Pass/Route 154. (Decades later it’s still operating, most recently providing stone for San Luis Obispo Airport and W W W. F O O D – H O M E . C O M

FIRSTS

LAX. Butch has owned the ranch since 2003.) So Giuseppe had a dual career: stonemason by day, restaurateur by night.

“Eighteen to 20 hours a day for over 30 years — this is my granddad,” said Butch. Jeanette recalls his schedule as follows: “He would get up at 6 a.m., leave for [his masonry job] at 7, work until 5 p.m., then he would clean up and go tend bar until midnight or later. He worked two jobs until June 1969 when the business was sold.”

On Wednesdays, when the restaurant was closed, he made the ravioli.

“He loved making ravioli,” Jeanette said.

The specialties of the house were T-bone steak, Joe’s ravioli, and homemade minestrone soup with a split-pea base. Even at the end, a meal including soup, all the bread and butter you want, salad, entrée, and fried potatoes or spaghetti cost around $5. During the annual Old Spanish Days Fiesta it was all “truly a family affair,” Butch said. “My aunt waitressed. My mom and dad and sister and I all helped, busing tables or waiting.

We’d clear over $1,000 a night just on food. That’s a lot of food out to those tables.”

Grandmother Ilda put in long days too. Recalled Jeanette: “In 1936 she was one of four female licensed bartenders in Santa Barbara. She would get up early and make the soup and sauce for the spaghetti and ravioli. Ilda was the hostess W W W. F O O D – H O M E . C O M

and when needed she would cook and tend bar.

Ilda closed the café six nights a week at 2 a.m. and made sure that the café was cleaned up before she went home.”

A big day came along on June 27, 2017, when the city declared Arnoldi’s a Santa Barbara landmark. “It was emotional for me,” Jeanette said. The tears returned as she told the story of her grandparents’ arrival from Italy (Giuseppe in 1921, Ilda a year later). “They were poor but they came here and were rich because they started a new life,” she said. “They worked so hard and built something for our community to enjoy.”

All these years later, the property and building are still owned and managed by Jeanette.

A slew of celebrities made regular stops over the years. One, Burt Reynolds, was filming “The End” in Santa Barbara in 1977 or so when he stopped by Arnoldi’s. “He wanted a typical Italian widow for a scene and saw my grandmother’s photo above the bar and said, ‘I want her,’ ” Butch recalled. A staffer went to her house, she came over, and was hired. In the scene, a funeral procession is driving by the Old Mission. Reynolds pulls alongside and asks, “What did he die of?”

Grandmother Ilda’s reply: “She flips him off,” Butch said.

The Arnoldis ran the café until July 1969, then leased it to James and Helen Romp. Another

For 80 years Arnoldi’s has been a place for locals to gather, eat , drink, play a round of bocce ball and celebrate a unique part of Santa Barbara life.

Built in four short months after securing the original permit (shown on page 26) the Santa Barbara sandstone structure has endured the test of time and has been a special venue for numerous weddings, family anniversaries and other special events.

Top left, Marino Peri and Robert Peri Third from left: Longtime customer Gino Morosin, who for 60 years, sat at the same seat at the bar. There is a plaque at that seat honoring him.

Top far right: Circa 1950’s placemat that advertised local merchants and neighboring businesses.

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Mehosh Dziadzio

FIRSTS

The current owners and management of Arnoldi’s 26

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James and Helen, the Kershaws, took over in 1983. The place went downhill for a while until the current owners “basically rescued the restaurant,” in 2002, Butch said. Those owners are Jim and Dede Nonn, and Dave and Kitty Peri.

The rescue involved a total overhaul. “We had pictures of when it was first built and we restored it to the original,” said Dave Peri. “We found the old barstools in storage and had them restored too.”

Things ran smoothly after that, and then along came 2020. The pandemic has halved Arnoldi’s team from 32 parttime employees, and overall business is down 45 percent. “We’re lucky to have the huge patio in back” to make social distancing possible, Peri said.

They’re also lucky to have a loyal clientele. “The customer base is very local,” Peri said. “Third- and fourth-generation Santa Barbarans come in saying they came there with their grandparents and parents, or they got married there 25 years ago. It’s a very historic place.” He also credits the generosity of those customers to helping the café to survive. “The support is unbelievable. The tips to the staff —

unbelievable. We don’t have high turnover, so everybody knows everybody.”

One of the rough spots has been the blockage of bocce due to the virus. “You can’t stand six feet apart and play bocce,” Peri said. And that’s been sad for a lot of locals. “We had a winter league with 32 teams and a summer league with 32 teams. Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday nights, yearround.” He figures bocce will come roaring back enthusiastically when the time is right. “I figure when they let bowling alleys open, they’ll let bocce open,” Peri said.

Meanwhile, Arnoldi’s rolls along in its 80th year, now specializing in northern Italian cuisine. The specialty of the house? “People love our calamari,” Peri said. “And our lasagna. And our gnocchi and ravioli and sauces are all made there.”

People also love the history, as depicted in all the photos above the bar and in the walls themselves, made of the stones quarried by Giuseppe Arnoldi way back in 1940. “The building is still solid,” Peri said. “You could never recreate that building.”

Built to last?

“Exactly.”

W W W. F O O D – H O M E . C O M

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TRENDS The back patio at bouchon

Downtown Sparkle Without cars, State Street is cruising

by Jeff

Miller

W

e all know that creatures adapt to changes in their environment. Usually such evolution takes quite a while, but if you venture to downtown Santa Barbara you can see it happening right before your eyes.

It started, of course, with the coronavirus pandemic. Then came the governmental response:

“WHEREAS, the economic impacts of the COVID-19 closure have been devastating to the local Santa Barbara economy; and “WHEREAS, the commercial district of Downtown State Street is a vital economic artery of the City…

“I HEREBY ORDER THE DESIGNATED CLOSURE OF BLOCKS OF STATE STREET TO VEHICULAR TRAFFIC IN ORDER TO OPEN THE STREETS FOR A PEDESTRIAN PROMENADE AND LIMITED COMMERCE.”

It’s signed by Paul Casey, city administrator and director of emergency services on May 22.

And presto: State Street from Sola to Haley became an outdoor pedestrian mall.

Then, on July 2, just before the big Fourth of July weekend, Governor Gavin Newsom responded to California’s spike in COVID cases by closing indoor operations for a slew of concerns, from gyms to churches. And, of course,

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bars and restaurants. Five hours later bouchon, to name one, was serving dinners outdoors, said Amy Sachs and husband Mitchell Sjerven, owner/operators of the restaurant on West Victoria St.

West Victoria is another story of fast evolution. Seeing what was happening on State, Marge Cafarelli, owner of Public Market, enlisted support from Victoria neighbors bouchon, Scarlett Begonia, and Olio e Limone, went before the City Council and secured the same for their street, from State to Chapala.

And presto (again), there was a new branch of the State/Victoria promenade.

Restaurants and some other businesses adapted fast to the new outdoor environment.

Tables and umbrellas blossomed, cordoned off by fencing. Barber and nail salon chairs too.

The idea of turning State into a promenade isn’t new, but to have it suddenly happen for real has been mind-bending to many. Gratifying too.

“Join us for patio dining ‘European Style’ on State Street!” trumpets Chase Restaurant’s website. And managing consultant Warren Butler is singing along because his business has boomed since moving outdoors.

As good as before the pandemic?

How about better?

“Twenty to 30 percent better,” Butler said.

Nearby Holdren’s Steaks and Seafood reported similar results. “Our first weekend with the patio was Memorial Day,” owner Clay Holdren said. And then it was “really, really busy through June. A lot of people were tired of being locked up at home.”

Back to Chase, “Within a couple of days we were able to get ABC approval to serve alcohol outdoors,” Butler said. “The city helped. They had a big conference call workshop,” and soon Chase was cooking and pouring.

But first there was a patio to build. And in keeping with the governmental spirit of cooperation, a local version followed. “We actually built a deck out onto the street,” Butler said. “Our neighbors allowed us to expand a bit, and that helped.” In addition to the construction of the patio, there were expenses including umbrellas, heaters, propane, a music system, etc. And there were rules to follow. Tables were spread out for safe distancing, masks were required, menus were printed on disposable paper. Some restaurants have gone to online menus only.

In the end, “it worked out,” Butler said.

“People are really enjoying it. It’s just a great atmosphere. People love being outdoors.” It helps that Santa Barbara enjoys balmy weather most of the time, and boasts beautiful buildings and trees and wide streets.

Scarlett Begonia had more hurdles than W W W. F O O D – H O M E . C O M

Photos by Braulio Godinez

State street dining at The Chase Restaurant

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TRENDS most to overcome, having moved into new quarters in the former Nugget Restaurant on West Victoria. “I opened on June 20 in a new location,” she said.

“It’s been hard. Running a restaurant is really layered as is. Then add COVID-19 to the world and it’s even more complicated.”

Closed for over two months due to the virus, she had to rebuild in every way. “It’s not as easy as opening a boutique,” she said. “All the food went bad, and 75 percent of the employees went away. It cost $75,000 to rehire and reinvest.”

Along with the encouragement that came with the promenade creation, there’s sorrow over the businesses already gone and worry that many others won’t recover. “It was really surprising that C’est Cheese had to close,” Fleming said, describing the shop as a Santa Barbara mainstay. “That’s so sad. And Fish Enterprise. I went there as a kid. It’s just crazy.”

The parting note on the C’est Cheese website tells the tale. “As many of you know, we had a big setback a few years ago during the Thomas fire and resulting mudslides. Ever since, we have been working to recover from its impact, but the current pandemic has been more than we can overcome. We hung on as long as we could, but unfortunately the time has come for us to close our doors.

With a heavy heart, we regret to inform you that Saturday, July 18th, was C’est Cheese’s last day in business.”

After June busted out all over with big business for Holdren’s, July tapered off, according to Clay Holdren. “There are a lot of question marks,” he said.

“A lot of people are concerned about spending money now. Who knows what will happen next month or the month after? It’s crazy.”

At bouchon, Mitchell Sjerven expressed everyone’s hope: that indoor dining is approved again in time for the Christmas season. Heat lamps are great, he said, but not enough to keep outdoor dining flourishing.

Meanwhile, though, restaurants along State and Victoria are united in hoping the promenade is here to stay.

“One hundred percent it should stay,” Holdren said. And not only restaurateurs feel that way. “Ask every business owner and they would agree — 100 percent.” Holdren, Fleming, and others agree the city should put some funds into beautifying the district and giving it a more uniform look while making it all 30

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permanent.

Butler at Chase is also among those hoping the promenade stays car-free.

“State Street is coming to life.” People have talked about making State into a pedestrian mall for decades, he said, and now that it’s here due to the pandemic, the wisdom of that idea is plain to see.

“If it’s done right, this won’t only affect State Street,” Butler said. “It will affect the whole city. People will dine here, walk or bike around, and visit their favorite stores, make State one of the finest streets in America, like it was and should be again. Another reason to stay in Santa Barbara.”

What does the future hold? On July 30 the city’s economic development manager, Jason Harris, had just come out of a meeting on that subject.

“There’s very strong interest” in making State a permanent promenade, said

Harris, who led the efforts toward the emergency ordinance that allowed outdoor business in the first place. But first must come all the planning efforts that such a change would require. The same doesn’t apply to West Victoria.

“It was clearly established that [that closure] was very temporary,” he said.

“We’re willing to maintain it as long as the public health order restricts indoor dining.”

Mitchell Sjerven at bouchon understands that full well. On the other hand, he said, that one block of West Victoria and the adjacent block at 1200 State St. contain 18 food and beverage businesses, in the heart of the theater district. “If we’re successful in bringing countless people to West Victoria,” he said, it will “increase our odds” of remaining pedestrian-only.

“The city is $25 million in the hole,” Sjerven said. “Where will that money come from? The only way is to increase tourism, which can’t happen now, or for businesses to provide more sales tax and keep staff employed so they can contribute to our local economy.” A thriving restaurant district is fertile ground for all that, he said.

For now, despite all the struggles of the pandemic era, there’s been a persistent bright spot, and that’s the camaraderie spawned by tough times.

“There’s a lot of community spirit, for sure,” Holdren said. “Everybody’s asking everyone if they need help. All the business owners are calling and checking in. Santa Barbara’s the best. It’s a great place to live.”

Olio e Limone

Jane Restaurant

Holdren’s Steak House

W W W. F O O D – H O M E . C O M

OYST LOVE ’EM OR LEAVE ’EM, THESE MOLLUSK DELICACIES DON’T ALL TASTE THE SAME, AND OYSTERS ARE ALSO RICH IN RARE AMINO ACIDS THAT MAY EVEN TRIGGER INCREASED LEVELS OF SEX HORMONES

By Leslie A. Westbrook

P

eople either love or hate oysters. There’s no middle ground. I happen to belong among those who devour these delicacies with great delight. It’s not just about the oyster, it’s how one savors them, either slowly and quickly, but always deliberately. And inevitably one always feels a bit sad — la mélancolie — when it’s time for the last one.

Many people have written about oysters over the ages.

As Jonathon Swift is oft quoted: “He was a bold man who ate the first oyster,” but it’s a smart man or woman who eats as many as they can get their hands on, for a number of reasons.

Researching oyster history is about as easy as trying to grasp one of these slippery devils (best slurped from their shells). There are salty appreciations and books with recipes, and many covering the history from colonial times to the oyster wars. My research tells me that oysters have been enjoyed over the centuries, first by the wealthy and privileged classes of ancient Rome and Greece, as well as during the Renaissance. It wasn’t until the mid-1800s that oysters became available to the working class in the U.S and Europe.

Various dates are cited regarding the roots of the famous “r” rule, urging no oyster consumption during any month without an “r” in it. One 2019 study insists it’s 4,000 years old. Wherever and whenever it was hatched, the idea was to protect oysters during reproduction season and to protect humans against bacteria. But oysters can now be enjoyed year-round.

Since the election is upon us, I found it interesting to learn that oyster shells may have been used for voting during the Greek Empire. And although Aphrodite, god-

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dess of beauty and love, is most famously depicted on a scallop shell, some prefer to believe it was an oyster. The idea that oysters are an aphrodisiac somehow linked to Aphrodite is also, alas, based on myth.

All that aside, they do offer a ton of health benefits.

In addition to being an excellent source of protein, vitamin D, iron, and copper, oysters also contain high levels of vitamin C, phosphorus, niacin, and riboflavin. And, by golly, oysters are extremely rich in zinc, which is essential for testosterone production and maintenance of healthy sperm. Although women have much less testosterone than men, it also plays a key part in the female libido. Oysters also boost dopamine, a hormone that increases libido in both men and women.

I’ve come to appreciate this delicacy more and more over the years and have enjoyed learning to differentiate between the species and their size and taste at various venues.

I like my oysters served raw on the half shell, preferably with an ocean view. I’ve savored many varieties up and down the West Coast and even on the other side at Manhattan’s iconic Grand Central Oyster Bar. From The Fish Market overlooking San Diego Bay to two spots without views (Seattle’s terrific The Walrus and The Carpenter and San Francisco’s Swan Oyster Depot, one of our nation’s top spots for fresh oysters), all have excelled.

The most scenic place for these culinary treats in our area is Caruso’s at Rosewood Miramar Beach hotel in Montecito. A plate of Kumamoto oysters and shrimp is served with three dipping sauces: a SoCal sauce (the chef ’s version of Tabasco), mignonette, and a superb cocktail sauce.

More casually, head down the Santa Barbara Harbor for fresh oysters at the Santa Barbara Fish Market, best enW W W. F O O D – H O M E . C O M

ERS

ON THE COVER

Classic Oysters Rockefeller.

joyed with their excellent homemade cocktail sauce (recipe shared at the end of this story). They will shuck and serve on a bed of ice with lots of lemon wedges to enjoy at the harbor or at home, or you can take them with you unopened and prepare to your own specifications. In Carpinteria, Little Dom’s Seafood opened this summer with a highly anticipated fresh oyster bar. Lure also has an oyster bar.

Over 150 varieties of oysters are harvested and sold in North America, yet they comprise a total of only five species: Pacific or Crassostrea gigas; Kumamoto oysters or Crassostrea sikamea; Atlantic Oysters or Crassostrea virginica; European flat oysters or Ostrea edulis; and Olympia oysters or Ostrea lurida/Ostrea conchaphila.

Some large oysters are almost gag-worthy, and while consumers may feel they’re getting more bang for their bucks with those, I prefer the tiny, sweet, and more delicate variety, like the Kumamoto, which take three to four years to reach maturity. It can take four years for an Olympic oyster to grow to the size of a quarter.

Kumamoto and Pacific oysters are sweeter and easy to pair with wine. East coast, European and Olympia oysters are more minerally and more difficult to pair.

Most often, dry white wines are recommended for oyster-pairing, but in these free-form modern times, some sommeliers say anything goes.

Santa Barbara Fish Market sells a variety of fresh oysters depending on what’s available and freshest. I went down on a weekday afternoon for a stroll on the breakwater followed by a delicious sampling of four varieties available that day.

Hands down my favorites were the kusshi oysters from Deep Bay, British Columbia. They get their accurate name from the Japanese word for “ultimate” or “precious.” Tiny, plump, with a nice salty brine. I’d also call these heavenly.

Blue Point oysters from Virginia: For those who like their oysters big and meaty. This less flavorful variety is greatly improved with the kick of the Fish Market’s dynamite cocktail sauce.

Sanctuary oysters: Full flavored with firm, plump meat, these oysters are farmed in Baja, California, Mexico, in a lagoon at the heart of the El Vizcaino Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The saltiest of all, they had a nice ocean/earthy taste that worked nicely with a dash of lemon.

Fanny Bay oysters: Also from British Columbia, these are another of the larger oysters that I found less chewy than others.

RECIPES

Raw or Cooked?

I believe oysters are best served fresh, raw and simply.

Just split them open (an oyster shucking knife makes this task manageable for even the klutziest), savor the salty seawater brine and slurp them down, preferably accompanied by a fresh baguette and a crisp white sauvignon blanc or bone-dry muscadet from France’s Loire Valley. There are many locally made artisanal wines to accompany oysters, but one standout is the 2019 Melon de Bourgogne from Lieu Dit Winery (www.lieuditwin34

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W W W. F O O D – H O M E . C O M

ery.com).

You can top raw oysters with a pinch of mignonette sauce (see the recipe in “Cooking with Cannabis” on page 36) or a horseradish sauce that adds a kick.

But…

If you’re baking oysters in their shells (they’re lovely with butter, panko bread crumbs, and some lemon) you’ll need to balance them on rock salt or rice in your baking dish. You can also grill them — easiest with the big fat ones — with herbed butter. Just balance them on the grill or use the rock salt or rice in a pan set atop the grill to keep them upright.

Barrie Lynn’s Saki Poached and Broiled Oysters Balance opened oysters in the shell on a bed of rock salt in a baking pan. Place a pinch of butter under each oyster and poach in a dry, young, cold sake that’s under nine months old. Top each oyster with freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Bake or broil in the oven (be sure not to overcook) until the cheese has melted.

Santa Barbara Fish Market Cocktail Sauce Santa Barbara Fish Market sells its dynamite cocktail sauce, but you can also make it at home from this recipe they shared with us.

One 14 oz. bottle ketchup

1.5 tablespoons of Worcestershire sauce

Tabasco (or favorite hot sauce) to taste

2 teaspoons of black pepper

Juice of 1 lemon

1/4 cup of parsley

1/4 cup of chopped green onion (tops only)

1 tablespoon of horseradish

Combine all ingredients and refrigerate.

Oysters Rockefeller are most commonly known as being named for the richest man in the world at the time, due to the richness of the dish. Another theory cites the green stuff found on some bivalves (actually phytoplankton the oyster dines on) as resembling Rockefeller’s green wealth. Either, way, we know the original broiled oyster recipe was created in 1889, due to a shortage of escargot at Antoine’s restaurant, and remains a secret to this day. Perhaps it’s time for a new oyster recipe named after a present-day billionaire: Oysters Zuckerberg, Bezos or Gates, anyone? Or maybe Oysters Oprah?

INGREDIENTS 2 cloves garlic 1 c. tightly packed fresh spinach 1/2 c. roughly chopped green onions 1/2 c. roughly chopped parsley, leaves and stems 2 tsp. lemon juice 1/2 c. (1 stick) butter, softened 2 tbsp. Pernod or other anise-flavored liqueur 3/4 c. panko bread crumbs 1/4 c. freshly grated Parmesan 1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 lb. coarse salt, for baking 24 fresh oysters, shucked, shells reserved Lemon wedges, for serving W W W. F O O D – H O M E . C O M

DIRECTIONS 1. Position rack in top third of oven and preheat to 450°. Add garlic, spinach, green onions, parsley, lemon juice, butter, and Pernod to a food processor and pulse until finely chopped.

2. In a medium bowl combine, panko, Parmesan, and oil.

3. Sprinkle coarse salt over large baking sheet to depth of 1/2”. Arrange oysters in half shells in salt. Divide spinach mixture among oysters and sprinkle with Parmesan mixture.

4. Bake until spinach mixture is bubbling and panko is deeply golden, about 8 minutes.

5. Serve with lemon wedges alongside.

In the event you’re not up for shucking your own oysters, here are some tasty local options. Upper left: Yuzu Granita oysters from Oku. Upper right: Oysters Casino from Petit Valentien. Lower: Spicy oyster shooters from Fishouse.

Fishouse and Petit Valentien photos by Corina Sylvia. Oku courtesy Oku.

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lice B. Toklas became infamous for the hashish fudge recipe in her 1954 cookbook, which was included quite innocently. In need of more recipes, she called out to friends. The “brownie” recipe (that became popular in later years with the hippie movement) was sent to her by a friend. Due to a deadline she didn’t recipe-test the Moroccan delight and, according to lore, apparently didn’t know what cannabis was.

These days cannabis cookbooks feature recipes for everything from Sativa Onion Soup with Ginger and Lemon to Smoked Apple-Glazed Pork Roast Lion with Walnut and Cannabis Leaf Stuffing (“The Cannabis Kitchen Cookbook: Feel-Good Food for Home Cooks” by Robin Griggs Lawrence), as well as those for chocolate pot au crème and guacamole.

You can experiment with your favorite recipes by replacing regular cooking oil or olive oil with a cannabis-infused oil — like the extra virgin olive oil from potli (available at The Farmacy.

They deliver).

Unlike Toklas, be sure to recipe-test before serving to your bestie, significant other, or roomies, and remember to go slow with edibles.

“Our motto with edibles is start low and go slow” said grower and Farmacy owner Graham Farrar. “It’s important to remember that for some folks edibles can take up to 1.5 hours to feel effects. You really want to give it time before adding more. When you eat cannabis the THC gets metabolized into 11-hydroxy-THC,

which is three to six times more psychoactive (it gets you more buzzed) than THC consumed via smoking, hence the reason behind start low and go slow.”

Since this issue features oysters, here’s a cannabis mignonette sauce to serve with a dozen fresh oysters that have been shucked and placed on a bed of ice and decorated with lemon wedges.

The sauce can be prepared in both an infused and non-infused version so that your oyster consumption doesn’t have to be limited by your cannabis consumption (or the other way around).

As Julia Child never said: Bong appétit!

—LAW

Oil available at The Farmacy www.thefarmacysb.com

Nirvana Oysters with Mignonette à la cannabis

A dozen fresh oysters

Sauce 2 teaspoons potli cannabis-infused olive oil 1 tablespoon shallots 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Pinch of salt

Combine sauce ingredients in a small jar with a lid and stir. Refrigerate for at least one hour.

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HOME CHEF

Baked Shakshuka

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W W W. F O O D – H O M E . C O M

Baked Shakshuka

A

s the days grow shorter and we start looking for more quality comfort food, this classic dish is both easy on time and easy on the wallet. To really give it a rich tone, try using duck eggs instead of chicken. Find them at Whole Foods Market.

This recipe doesn’t only have to be for Sunday brunch; it’s also a great option for a quick weeknight dinner. Serves 4 Ingredients: 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 large leeks, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced 1 large celery stalk, sliced 3 garlic cloves, minced 1 spicy chili pepper (any variety would work here), sliced 1 bunch of swiss chard, cut into 1/2-inch ribbons 1 cup spinach (tightly packed) 1/2 bunch dried oregano 1 teaspoon ground cumin Salt and pepper to taste 1/4 cup crumbled feta cheese 4 large eggs

Instructions Preheat oven to 375°F. Over medium heat, warm the olive oil in a 9-inch cast iron skillet. Add the sliced leeks and celery. Cook until leeks soften, about 5 minutes. Add the minced garlic and sliced spicy pepper, and sauté for another 3 minutes. Toss in the swiss chard, spinach, oregano, and cumin. Season to taste with salt and pepper (make sure not to over-salt the mixture, as the feta adds saltiness as well).

Once the chard and spinach have wilted, scrape down the sides and pat down the mixture. Sprinkle the crumbled feta over the greens mixture and carefully crack the eggs over the top, one at a time and spaced slightly apart. Add some more freshly ground black pepper.

Transfer the skillet to the oven and bake for 7 to 10 minutes (longer if you prefer your eggs cooked more, or less time for runnier eggs). Serve immediately with fresh crusty bread.

Fuyu Persimmon Fruit Salad

This is a great addition to any holiday menu. Light, healthy and packed with flavor!

Course: Salad Prep Time: 10 minutes Cook Time: 40 minutes Total Time: 50 minutes Servings: 2-4 Author: Danielle Fahrenkrug Ingredients W W W. F O O D – H O M E . C O M

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Butternut Squash Risotto with Shrimp

HOME CHEF 2 cups baby kale leaves 2 cups sliced Fuyu Persimmon Fruit 1 cup frozen cranberries 1 cup pecans 1/2 cup cucumber diced 1 cup crunchy roasted chickpeas 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon black pepper DRESSING: 1/3 cup of avocado oil 1 Tablespoon lemon juice 2 teaspoons champagne vinegar 1/4 teaspoon Himalayan salt 1/8 teaspoon fresh ground pepper 1 teaspoon poppy seeds

Fuyu Persimmon Fruit Salad

Instructions Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Line with parchment paper if needed. Add the cranberries to one side of the pan and persimmons to the other side, making sure the fruit is not overlapping. Sprinkle the entire pan with 1/2 teaspoon of salt and 1/4 teaspoon of black pepper.

Roast for 40 minutes, flipping halfway through. Make the dressing: In a small bowl mix the avocado oil, lemon juice, champagne vinegar, poppy seeds, 1/4 teaspoon of Himalayan salt and 1/8 teaspoon of fresh ground pepper.

Mix well. When persimmons and cranberries finished roasting, set aside to cool. In a large bowl add the chickpeas, persimmon slices and cranberries. Add the baby kale, cucumbers and pecans. Add a little dressing at a time to taste.

Toss to coat then serve.

Recipe by Danielle Fahrenkrug www.delightfulmomfood.com

Butternut Squash Risotto with Shrimp

Ingredients 2 ounces Pancetta or Bacon, cut into small pieces 1 pound Shrimp – peeled deveined 3 1/2 cups Organic Chicken Broth 2 Tbsp Grapeseed or Olive Oil 2 Tbsp Unsalted Butter 2 Shallots – finely diced 2 Garlic Cloves – minced 40

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1 cup Sauvignon Blanc 1 1/2 pounds Butternut Squash peeled seeded and cut into 1/4 inch cubes Salt & freshly ground Pepper to taste 1 cup Arborio Rice 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan 2 Tbsp Fresh chopped Oregano - plus a sprig for garnish

Instructions In heavy skillet, cook the pancetta over medium-high heat until pancetta is almost crisp. With a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate.

Sauté shrimp until they have turn soft pink, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

In a medium saucepan, bring the chicken broth to a nice simmer. Reduce the heat, but keep it hot.

Over medium het, in a large heavy-bottom saucepan, heat the grapeseed oil and melt 1 tablespoon of the butter. Add shallots and sauté until translucent for about 3 minutes, then add garlic.

Stir and continue to cook for few minutes longer.

Mix in the butternut squash and cook for about 5-7 minutes.

Season with salt and pepper.

Stir in the rice and cook for a few more minutes until the rice becomes translucent.

Gently pour in the wine and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly until wine is almost absorbed.

Add 1 cup of the chicken broth and stir constantly until liquid is absorbed. Continue to add the remaining broth 1 to 2 ladleful at a time, stirring constantly until all the liquid dissipates and the rice is tender but still a little firm and delightfully creamy.

Turn off heat and gently stir in the remaining butter and grated parmesan, then add the shrimp.

To finish risotto, fold in the fresh oregano and sprinkle with pancetta bits.

Recipe by Judit Schweller and Corina Schweller GlamorousBite.com Styling by Judit Photo by Corina W W W. F O O D – H O M E . C O M

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HOME CHEF

Pizza Al Picante Photos and recipe by Kim Reierson

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T

he best weather in Santa Barbara is in the fall. Temps are a comfortable mid-70s (with no morning fog!), which means dining al fresco gets extended all the way through the holidays. My favorite all-year-round meal to make is pizza. If I have the time I like to make my crust from scratch, but if I don’t there are plenty of ready-made crust options from vegetarian and gluten free to good old-fashioned stone brick oven style.

By now, we’ve all managed to get strategically acquainted with our grocery stores, not only for when is the best time to go but also which place is best for certain items. Trader Joe’s for staples, Lazy Acres for vitamins, health, and grocery, and Whole Foods for gluten-free packaged item choices in general. Most of my vegetables and fruit I like to get from our local Farmers’ Market. It’s one of the few outdoor pleasures one can still enjoy that supports our local community. Picking out seasonal fruits and pairing them with cheeses is a fun way to experiment with your toppings.

I call this pizza “al picante” because it has a little spicy kick to it. Instead of tomato sauce, I brush the crust with a semi-spicy sauce I came up with made from Thai red curry paste, La-Yu chili oil, and Italian Bomba Hot Chili Pepper Sauce (all from Trader Joe’s).

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Ingredients: 1 medium sized ready-made crust (8 slices) 1 peach (yellow or white) 1 gourmet sweet red pepper or heirloom bell pepper 1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese 8 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese 3 or 4 sprigs of sage 2 or 3 sprigs of lemon thyme 2 tablespoons butter olive oil black pepper

For the “picante” paste to brush on pizza crust: 1/2 teaspoon red curry paste 1 teaspoon Italian Bomba Hot Chili Pepper Sauce 1 teaspoon La-Yu chili oil

Prep: Heat oven to 375. Take your pizza crust and brush olive oil evenly all over and set it aside. In a small mixing bowl combine “picante” sauce until smooth and creamy. It should be more oily than pasty. Brush a thin layer of the picante sauce evenly over the crust, making sure to cover out to the edges. This will give a nice orange red color to your crust ends. Your crust should be a sheer orange/red color, not heavily covered like regular tomato sauce. Set the crust aside while you prep your toppings. This will give a chance for the oils and sauce to seep in.

Our two veggie toppings are cooked separately.

Peach topping: Slice the peach into 1/4-inch-thick pieces. In a metal pan brown the sage and peaches in butter. Once browned, turn off heat and cover. Set aside.

Red pepper topping: Julienne slice the bell pepper and cook on medium heat with lemon thyme and a dash of black pepper until edges brown and peppers start to soften. Turn off heat and set aside.

Cheese: Cut your mozzarella cheese ball into 1/4-inch-thick slices and place evenly around your pizza so each slice gets at least one piece. Sprinkle the blue cheese crumbs all around. Stick pizza in oven for 10 minutes (or enough time to melt cheese).

Take out the pizza and set on stovetop while you place your pre-cooked toppings of pepper and peaches on top of melted cheese. Stick back in oven for five minutes, this time on medium broil setting to brown the cheese and edges so crust is crispy. Dress it with the leftover sage leaves and fresh basil.

Serve with your favorite wine or seltzer mixed with peach juice.

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HOME STYLE

Succulents:

The spice of a winter’s garden

By Lisa Cullen

N

o matter if you are yearning for a more beautiful landscape and need some inspiration or looking for ways to spice up your winter garden, succulents and other exotics may be the answer.

The varieties of plants available are endless and it can truly be fun combining the different colors and textures. These are plants that don’t need much water, and most of are self-perpetuating, so you will always have more than you need and can pass them along to friends.

When talking about exotic succulents the place to go for inspiration is Lotusland. There you will see first hand the myriad of ways to use succulents, cacti, bromeliads and other exotic plants and trees. Don’t be intimidated at the magnitude of varieties of plants you will see. Use the experience to learn what works and what doesn’t and to find out what you like. Since Lotusland doesn’t open until mid February, here are a few ideas to get you on your way and some photos to entice you to create your own beautiful wonderland.

Add Color with Aloes

Aloes are at their peak in the winter months when the rest of your garden is likely taking a break. Brilliant displays of red, orange and yellow are the trademark of the versatile Aloe. Native to south Africa, the Aloe has adapted well to our Mediterranean climate, needing very little or no water once it is established.

Aloe arborescens, or Candelabra Aloe is a sprawling plant that grows to 8 feet tall and does its best when used in a mass or as a backdrop to other succulents. Their characteristic coral-red flowers rise 2 feet in the air and last from late fall through mid-winter. But this is just one of the many choices in the Aloe family. For sculptural accents, you could add in few 44

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of the more exotic Aloes, like Aloe excelsa or Aloe plicatilis (Fan Aloe).

There are hundreds of Aloes to choose from so have a blast with them.

The Noble Agave

Agave are plants of the New World. Agave is Greek for “noble” no doubt due to their bold structure and striking form. The most common variety is Agave attenuata, which has soft edges and are spineless. I love the way they send out a large plume of flowers when they are mature. All Agave are “monocarpic” meaning they bloom once in the life of the plant. But, as any one who has agave can attest, they produce lots of “babies”. When the mother plant blooms, not to worry, she has left lots of progeny behind.

Agave Americana with its dangerous spines shouldn’t be planted anywhere near walkways or entries. The variated variety is particularly dramatic. Only use Agave Americana if you have plenty of room. This is a plant that should be enjoyed at a distance.

The Queen of the Desert-Cacti

Cacti possess a few key attributes that allow them to survive in some of the world’s most inhospitable places. Stated simply, they have extremely short growing seasons, long dormancies, extensive but shallow root systems and other special features, which allow them to quickly take in any rainfall that may occur.

If you decide to take the plunge into the Cacti pool of plants, give them good drainage, they need sandy soil, like decomposed granite and virtually no water. Consider them a specialty plant that needs it’s own environment. The Nopal or Prickly Pear cactus is a common sight on W W W. F O O D – H O M E . C O M

our hillsides and roadways and makes a great security fence for large properties (and great tacos)!

The Sacred Plant of Juptier-Sempervivum

Sempervivums were considered sacred to Jupiter in Roman and Thor in Nordic mythology. There were grown on roofs as it was thought they protected against thunderbolts and storms. They are the frosttolerant succulents, are commonly known as Hen and Chicks and work great in containers and along pathways due to their low profile and multitude of shapes and colors.

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The Adaptable Sedum

Sedum is another very forgiving family of succulents that tolerates colder climates. It ranges in size from an 18-inch shrub to a moss-like ground cover and comes in every hue of the rainbow. Any of the low-growing varieties would make viable lawn substitutes and as a bonus never need fertilizer or mowing.

Tips for Success

You don’t need to be an expert to create a beautiful garden with succulents. I wouldn’t get too hung up on knowing all the names, there are a few big categories, but in general I find it best to first familiarize you with the eventual size and growth patterns of each variety.

Aloe and Agave for example can become massive, so the old “know before you go” is good advice when shopping for succulents. Look for soft edges and varieties that stay low to the ground for pathways, using them in clumps or mass plantings for the best effect. And be sure to leave plenty of room for them to grow.

One trick to creating a beautiful succulent garden is to limit your “plant pallet”. For a more formal effect, use only one type of plant. The larger the plant assortment the more casual the space will feel. Once you have chosen the foundation plants you could add in a few exotic or specimen plants for a sculptural effect. Go easy on these, if you invest in a specimen you want to show it off and not allow it to get lost in the garden.

All succulents want good drainage and preferably sandy soil. Amend the soil heavily with a succulent mix, sand or decomposed granite, etc. and be careful not to over-water, particularly if you have heavy, clay soil. Though they are most definitely categorized as “low-maintenance” they do need some care.

Remove spent flowers, cut and separate and replant them every few years. Succulents are the ultimate recyclable material!

Resources for succulents, containers and supplies: Island View Nursery, 3376 Foothill Rd. Carpinteria, 805-684-1296; Terra Sol Garden Center, 5320 Overpass Rd, Santa Barbara, 805-964-7811 Lisa Cullen, landscape designer and organic gardener owns Montecito Landscape with her husband, Chris. She can be reached at 805.969.3984 or www. montecitolandscape.com W W W. F O O D – H O M E . C O M

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HOME STYLE

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The leak police

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leaky pipe can cost hundreds if not thousands of dollars per year if left unattended. Even worse if it involves a vacation home or rental. Fortunately, Moen, a faucet company, has invented a water monitoring system called the Flo that can detect everything from a broken pipe to a small drip and report it directly to your smart phone. The device allows you to monitor flow rate, pressure, and temperature in real time from anywhere. If there’s a catastrophic failure like a burst pipe or someone leaves the water running, you can shut the water off remotely no matter where you are. The device is a simple install by handy do-it-yourselfers or a plumber and may qualify you for home insurance discounts.

For more information on the Moen Flo device, visit Economy Supply at 632 Haley Street. 805-965-4319.

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DESIGNER NOTEBOOK

Designer Colleen Macy: And her collective living approach at Santa Barbara Interiors

C

olleen Macey’s Interior design style is inclusive and unique, as she embraces her clients interests and collections to create rooms that reflect their personal style.

Using her ability to move beyond traditional boundaries she encourages her clients to decorate with a variety of furniture, accessories and art. She calls this collective living, which means decorating without specific “requirements” other than an affection for the items and their functionality.

A graduate of New York School of Interior Design, Colleen honed her skills by working in a variety of styles. From studio makeovers to penthouse apartments, she transformed spaces into inviting, personalized, functional interiors.

Colleen says she loved the work and the challenge, but after a trip to Santa Barbara to work on a project she fell in love with Santa Barbara and decided to move her business. Her downtown showroom features a full showroom of furniture, textiles, kitchen cabinets, countertops, and window coverings.

Along with partner, Tom Mehling, who is a general contractor specializing in designing custom cabinetry, they have created a one48

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stop shop for all levels of design and home remodeling.

Food + Home got a chance to chat with Macey about her design philosophy and unique style while in between projects in a very busy schedule.

The virus has kept people home more. Are they seeing this as a good time to decorate?

Clients are focusing on updating their homes to accommodate our new lifestyle living with Covid-19. People are working from home, while their children are learning from home and workspaces need to be defined and updated for optimal function.

Dated kitchens that may have been adequate before, are now getting more use and need to be more functional. We are seeing an increase in kitchen remodels and closet organization.

We are assisting clients with reconfiguring and expanding closet space necessary to provide storage for essential office, school and household supplies. With home prices in Santa Barbara holding strong, home improvements are likely to increase the value of your home. Our new focus on remodels is providing a COVID-safe environment for both our

clients and contractors.

What do you mean by “Timeless Design?”

Timeless design is always in style. Less is more, functionality and quality are all key elements of timeless design. Working with a timeless design makes it easy to mix in an unusual or trendy piece. I encourage my clients to invest in high quality furnishings for their significant pieces. A classic neutral linen sofa, classic cabinetry, and natural stone will always be in style and timeless.

What is the plan for the future?

I will continue to enjoy living and working in Santa Barbara where I find endless inspiration and wonderful clients. My showroom is ever changing with new things all the time and always a fun place to find inspiration for the next project. In addition to the Santa Barbara showroom, I am looking forward to launching an online store in the new year.

Macey and her design staff are available by appointment. Showroom is at 10 East Figeuroa Street, downtown Santa Barbara. santabarbarainteriors.com. 805-450-0282.

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THE ARTS

Santa Barbara Studio Artists

S

anta Barbara Studio Artists is a nonprofit organization of professional fine artists who maintain working studios in Santa Barbara. They are dedicated to raising the profile of Santa Barbara as an art destination. For the past 19 years SBSA has held an annual Open Studios Tour on Labor Day weekend, with proceeds from ticket sales benefiting a local charitable organization. The tour attracts visitors from San Francisco to San Diego and all over the country. This year would have marked the tour’s 20th anniversary and was planned for the benefit of the Santa Barbara County Foodbank. However, it had to be postponed due to the coronavirus. The work of all five artists can be viewed in an exhibition at Grayspace Gallery, which opens on Sept. 18 during the Funk Zone Street Walk and runs through Oct. 11.

Hours are Friday through Sunday, 1-5 p.m.

awards from Congresswoman Lois Capps and State Senator Hannah Beth Jackson for her work and programs with developmentally disabled/at risk youth and for art programs in local schools.

Her current paintings explore patterns, color, and organic floating shapes that are interwoven with a geometric underlayer. Her artwork records imaginary patterns in the environmental intersection between urban-industrial and natural worlds. These bold and colorful paintings explore boundaries, crossing over through tensions between symmetric compositions of geometric parts and dynamic color and light.

Cynthia Martin

Kerrie Smith

English artist Kerrie Smith earned her BA with honors from Central Saint Martins School of Art in London. Smith has exhibited nationally from Bergamot Station in Santa Monica to A.I.R Gallery in Brooklyn, NY, and locally at Sullivan Goss Gallery and Westmont Ridley-Tree Museum of Art. She has received

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Cynthia Martin received a BA and graduate degrees from USCB. She is an award-winning artist, writer, and art educator, and has participated in numerous solo and group exhibitions.

She serves on the Santa Barbara Arts Commission advisory committee as well as the boards of the Abstract Art Collective and the Santa Barbara Studio Artists. Her paintings use color to address ideas about the interaction of humanity and the natural world.

Ruth Ellen Hoag was recently honored by Santa Barbara Beautiful for her two murals, “East of Yesterday,” at 10 East Yanonali Street. She’s owner of

Ruth Ellen Hoag

Ruth Ellen Hoag Fine Art at GraySpace Gallery in the Funk Zone and is also represented

by Kathryn Designs in Montecito. She is proud to include Signature status in American Watercolor Society among other accomplishments. Hoag comments on her painting: “My art is based on the figurative genre.

Ordinary, everyday people being central to my work, each painting offers an opportunity to discover a new insight into how we act, react, do, think, worry, enjoy, or ponder. I generally don’t work for accuracy, though some turn out that way.

In aiming for the communicative and emotional qualities, degrees of abstraction come into play. There’s no formula, only desire and some routine.”

Cynthia James

Cynthia James was born in Santa Monica and spent her

childhood scrambling up and down the canyons and beaches of the area. She attended UCSB and worked as an illustrator and muralist. In the ’90s she and her family moved to the Yucatan and built a boutique hotel in Tulum. Fifteen years later they returned from the remote tropics to Santa Barbara where James continued to paint using the themes of nature and environmentalism.

Dorothy Churchill-Johnson

A graduate of the University of Massachusetts, Amherst, Dorothy Churchill-Johnson has been a working artist in Santa Barbara since 1976. She is known for mural-size contemporary realist oil paintings in which she seeks to synthesize representation with other contemporary influences, such as pattern, neo-pop, surrealism and abstraction.

Churchill-Johnson’s work has been collected by museums, major corporations, five-star hotels, and private collectors nationally and internationally. Her next scheduled solo museum exhibition will be at The Butler Institute of American Art in the spring of 2021.

Churchill-Johnson is a founding board member and president emeritus of Santa Barbara Studio Artists.

W W W. F O O D – H O M E . C O M

IN THE GARDEN

How to Love Staying Home by

C

anceled vacations, cruises and road trips and other challenges have created a stay-at-home culture these days.

We live in the most beautiful place on Earth. We have the best weather, beaches, trails, and best of all the most wonderful people.

Having to stay at home instead of traveling? Don’t fight it, splurge on it! Make your home and garden a dream destination.

As with everything, there’s no right answer to how create the idea home and garden. My answer? It depends on you, your sense of aesthetics and what you love to do. The most important piece of advice I can give before starting a home or landscape improvement project is this: Your 62

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Lisa Cullen

home and garden are yours and no one else’s. It may seem obvious, but sometimes this is missed.

You are the only one who can answer the question of what your dream destination looks like, and you are the one who will be living in it so throw fashion out the window, think long-term, and get personal.

Make a Wish List Start by making a Wish List. It should contain everything you ever dreamed of having in your own home and garden. Don’t hold back, if you’re going to dream, dream big! List complete? Start asking questions and edit the list.

Do your friends and family actually play bocce ball? Do the kids

love soccer, volleyball, or badminton? When the family gets together do you BBQ, play chess, or watch sports? Do you entertain or is your garden more of a sanctuary? Does your property need shade in order to make it usable in the summer? Is a swimming pool a must?

You get the idea. If, for example, you aren’t an avid gardener, there’s no point in having a large vegetable plot (unless you’re prepared to hire someone to tend, harvest, and plant). It’s easy to be swept up in the latest trends; better to create your own. Yes, look around the internet for ideas, but be realistic about how you and your family will use your property.

Have a Master Plan Make a Master Plan. This plan will (hopefully) incorporate all the items on your amended Wish List.

There may be limitations due to locale, but that can be worked out as the Master Plan takes shape.

By the way, the Master Plan does not have to be an architectural drawing; at this point it should be conceptual, changing while you’re adding and subtracting ideas.

Having a Master Plan allows you the freedom to execute the project in phases. Or not. If you can do it all at once, go for it!

Enjoy the Process I love the process of tossing around ideas with clients as we hone in on what they need and W W W. F O O D – H O M E . C O M

want in their garden. This is the where the fun begins. One of my favorite recent projects involved two sisters living side by side on adjoining lots, each with husbands and several young children. We cut a hole through the wall so the kids could run back and forth without leaving the back yards, installed a zip line disguised as a birch forest, and built a swing planted with potato vine and morning glory. We also built two outdoor kitchens and two fire pits. And since they’re all huge sports fans, we worked out where to put the giant TV screens so everyone including the chef could watch while out of doors.

Now that it’s completed, my reward is hearing stories of nightly marshmallow roasts at the fire pit and how everyone, including the kids and dogs, love their new private resort.

Lisa Cullen, landscape designer and organic gardener, owns Montecito Landscape with her husband, Chris.

She can be reached at 805.969.3984 or www.montecitolandscape.com W W W. F O O D – H O M E . C O M

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IN THE GARDEN

Italian Salsa Verde (Adapted from Serious Eats-Joshua Bousel)

Contain your space

G

ardening in containers is a great way to take advantage of space, particularly if you don’t have a lot of it. Condo patio?

No problem, plant in containers. Limited Sun? Containers on wheels could be the solution.

The uses for container gardens are limitless. Planting in containers protects your precious plants from gophers and allows you greater control over the soil, food, and water.

This year I planted my entire vegetable garden in 15-gallon nursery cans and it’s one of my best gardens ever.

When it comes to types of containers there are no limits. Feel free to recycle most anything and everything. I’ve seen an old dresser, drawers removed, placed on its back and used as a garden bed. Maybe not the highest end gardens, but it certainly was amusing and unique.

Herb Gardens in Containers I never seem to have enough of certain herbs.

One of the best ways to plant herbs is in containers. Perennial herbs such as rosemary, thyme, sage, and tarragon will thrive in pots and are then harvestable year round. Plant successive crops of annual herbs like parsley,

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cilantro, and basil for a year-round supply.

Herbs that have a tendency to take over, like mint, oregano, lemon balm, and marjoram, can more easily be controlled if in pots.

A Bit of Garden History-The Versailles Citrus Planter Boxes A classic is, of course, citrus trees planted in large containers. The famous Versailles Citrus Planter Boxes, created during the 17th century at the Palace of Versailles, were so designed so that the trees could be moved into greenhouses during the winter months. We don’t need to be concerned about protecting our precious citrus trees, but planting in containers gives you greater flexibility in your garden. Containers can be moved around to change the dimensions of your garden depending on the need, and the choices are endless. Containers give you another opportunity to show off your own sense of style. Splurge on it! —Lisa Cullen Selections available at Tera Sol Garden Center.

5320 Overpass Road. 805-964-7811. La Sumida Garden Center, 165 South Patterson Ave. 805-964-9944.

Italian Salsa Verde is basically a pesto without the cheese and is super-versatile and super easy to make. We use it on everything, steamed potatoes, fish, grilled meats, stir it into soup, put it on eggs.

This recipe works best made in a food processer or blender. Feel free to change up the proportions and types of herbs according to your taste and availability.

I use a base of Italian Parley, Basil and Cilantro. To that I may add some mint, tarragon, marjoram or whatever looks good. If you like things spicy, add a pinch crushed or fresh red pepper. To make it Vegan omit the anchovies.

Ingredients 2 cups chopped herbs or your choice (Parsley, Cilantro, Basil) 1/4 cup chopped other herbs of your

choice (mint, tarragon, etc.)

1/4 cup capers, drained 3 anchovy filets or equal amount

anchovy paste (Vegans omit this) Finely grated rind of one lemon 1 Tablespoon white wine or cider vinegar 1 Tablespoon Lemon Juice

or more to taste 2/3-3/4 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil Salt and Pepper to taste (Makes a bit more than one pint) Put all ingredients in food processor or blender and pulse until desired consistency. Put in jars, pour a small bit of Olive Oil on top and keep in fridge. Will stay fresh for two weeks (if it lasts that long) W W W. F O O D – H O M E . C O M

Congratulations Certified Clean Creeks Businesses!

The City of Santa Barbara congratulates these businesses for recently becoming re-certified as Clean Creeks Businesses, and for their ongoing commitment to protecting our creeks and ocean.

Quality Wash Evershade and Detail Power Wash and Santabarbaradetail Steam Cleaning Evershade.com (805) 962-9700

supply.com (805) 570-1076

Powell Garage

Super Cucas

Certified since 2006

Certified since 2006

Certified since 2009

Certified since 2009

1327 De La Vina St 626 W. Micheltorena (805) 962-6163 (805) 962-4028 Is your business certified?

Learn more at sbcreeks.com or call (805) 897-2688.

Funded by hotel visitors through Measure B.

SPRUCE UP YOUR SPRINKLERS your irrigation system for h Check leaks and overspray

h

Adjust watering to the weather using the weekly Watering % Adjust

to properly program h Learn your irrigation controller

Find the complete irrigation startup checklist at SantaBarbaraCA.gov/WaterWise W W W. F O O D – H O M E . C O M

FOOD + HOME

65

T H E L A S T PA G E

Are the fish biting?

Who cares?

by Jeff

Miller

T

he fisherman trudged by along the beach, right in front of me. As a lifelong angler myself I thought I recognized his posture. It was the slouch and shuffle typical of the empty bucket blues.

“How’s the fishing?” I asked innocently, knowing it was a tricky question. If the catch was good, the last thing he’d want to do was share the news.

“Just shorts,” he said, shortly.

Delicately pressed a bit more, he divulged that the shorts were halibut under the 22-inch minimum size for keepers.

On further reflection, I recalled that I’d seen a lot of folks hard at work with surf rigs in the weeks since the beaches have reopened.

And the only catches I’d witnessed were puny perch caught on ironically big rods and tossed back with good-natured humility.

Meanwhile, as the surf has flattened for the summer season, I realized I’d also seen quite a few die-hards using their surfboards as fishing boats. I wondered idly what would happen if somebody hooked a 200-pounder.

It could result in what they call a Nantucket sleigh ride, wherein the surfboard angler gets a quick ride to faraway places.

Then I wondered if there’s a fishing version of the victory garden phenomenon going on. Are people relying on the ocean to provide more of their food in the pandemic era?

“My charter business is unbelievably busy,” enthused Tony Vultaggio, owner of Santa Barbara Sportfishing. His commercial business, Vultaggio Seafood, not so much. Both are

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FOOD + HOME

due to the impact of the pandemic.

“The commercial fleet is hurting big time, because restaurants have been closed all around the state, all around the country,” Vultaggio said. Meanwhile, sportfishing is booming because “people have a little more time on their hands,” he said. Also, “they’ve been cooped up and want to be out in nature.” And what’s the safest, social distancing-est thing to do outside? Well, one of them is fishing.

And at this point, the catch is secondary to just being out there. Whether it’s from a pier, a

boat, or a beach, “it’s just being outdoors, having fun,” Vultaggio said. “If you catch something to bring home and feed your family, it’s a bonus.”

Furthermore, he said I may have misread that fisherman who trudged past me on the beach. He may have had other burdens to bear, but it surely wasn’t about halibut too short to keep. “People are out there because they enjoy it,” Vultaggio said. “It’s relaxing. If he got a keeper he’d be delighted. If he threw back a short, he’s happy too.”

W W W. F O O D – H O M E . C O M

Keep On Rolling, Together

“I love the True Community Bank aspect; it certainly paid off for Zodos. When the crisis hit, American Riviera Bank really fought for us.”

— Sam Walters of Zodo’s Bowling & Beyond with Paul Orfalea

What does True Community Banking mean? It means working together to find solutions under even the most trying of circumstances.

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