WINE COUNTRY
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CHEF PARINGS
VALLEY WINE TOURS
WINE REDUCTION RECIPES
DINING GUIDE AND MORE!
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SANTA BARBARASingle level ocean, island & mountain view Estate on 2.93 acres.
Approached by a gated and impressive tree lined stately drive, the dramatic main residence abounds in natural light with 12 foot ceilings throughout. The guest house features 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms and a living room that opens onto the sprawling lawn. There is an expansive outdoor entertaining area with lap pool, a large motor court, 4 car garage, a well with holding tank and a generator. It is within minutes to the Upper & Lower Village and in the highly desirable Montecito Union School District.
Listed at $7,495,000.
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CoPy edItor
Jeff Miller
ContrIbutors
Carly Bates
Raymond Bloom
Angela Borda
Kim Carmel
Lisa Cullen
Danielle Fahrenkrug
Avery Hardin
Bryan Henson
Lynette La Mere
Julia McHugh
Jeff Miller
Hana-Lee Sedgwick
Leslie A. Westbrook
PhotograPhy
Jim Bartsch
Bill Boyd
Michael Brown
Joshua Curry
Eliot Crowley
Mehosh Dziadzio
Braulio Godinez
Ashley Hardin
Kim Reierson
Alexander Siegel
Shelly Vinson
ContaCt InformatIon
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“The entire process resembled more a ballet than a construction site, such was the degree of coordination required, and the choreography Mr. Hirsch performed to bring this project in on time and on budget was remarkable, and in my experience unprecedented.”
Our clients expect the finest in craftsmanship, materials, and service and since 1990, our team has been delivering. New construction, remodeling, accenting, and perfecting homes—we do it all.
| www.jedhirsch.com
wine country cuisine in the heart of the Historic Arts District
Fresh, local ingredients, prepared with care.
Excellent wines that reflect the quality and character of our region and work in concert with the cuisine.
Warm, inviting ambience with engaging service at a relaxed, leisurely pace. is is bouchon.
dinner nightly Sunday- ursday 5-9pm | Friday-Saturday 5-10pm
Rustic Elegance
Jim Mishler’s longtime dream comes true
by leslIe a. WestbrookRoost, the elegant but un-stuffy restaurant that opened in May in Downey’s longtime spot, had some big shoes to fill. John and Liz Downey’s restaurant received top ratings from Zagat and other reviewers over the decades.
Not to worry. Out of the gate, Roost garnered rave reviews online, and positive word-of-mouth has been spreading ever since. I concur. I popped in for lunch (lunch launched in November) and met chef Craig Lingham and owner Jim Mishler, who many may recognize from his decades-long tenure as GM at The Paradise Café.
The lunch menu offers a great variety of delectable sandwiches; terrific salads; a flavorful white bean chili made with chicken, roasted pasillas and cotija cheese; and even tacos. But not just any tacos.
“I’ve always been into Mexican food,” chef Lingham told me. “We
knew it would take guts to put tacos on the menu.”
The plump wild shrimp tacos, flavored with spicy garlic seasoning, mango, and tamarind, and served with guacamole, beans, and fabulous pico de gallo and roasted tomatillo salsas, knocked it out of the parque.
The Harvest Salad is a treasure trove of flavors – spinach, roasted grapes, fennel, toasted pumpkin seeds, and more – perfectly and lightly dressed.
The cuisine is “rustica” – rustic, straightforward dishes that incorporate organic and well-sourced ingredients, with an emphasis on unique mélanges of flavors, which include “charred” as a flavor element.
For owner Jim Mishler, Roost is the realization of a long-held dream.
(continued)
“I’ve been wanting to do something like this for years,” the restaurateur said. In May he finally took the plunge. Mishler didn’t want a huge space (the restaurant holds around 55) and he saw Santa Barbara Arts District as a perfect location, sandwiched between the Arlington, Victoria, and Granada theatres.
The remodeled, handsome, contemporary space boasts windows facing State Street that allow sunlight in. Concrete floors, exposed brick walls, long wooden banquettes, art on the walls by Ginny Speirs, bentwood chairs, and ceiling fans add to the casually elegant atmosphere. Thankfully, you can hear your dining companion – with pleasant soft music playing in the background.
The Victorian sandwich, a hip and tasty spin on a BLT, with roasted chicken, bacon, apple, arugula, tomato, and pickled vegetables, pops with flavor. Oh, and the accompanying shoestring french fries? No surprise they’re as tasty and irresistible as those at Mishler’s former roost.
I look forward to dinner in the near future. Porchetta with mustard braised leeks beckons. As does Faroe Islands Scottish Salmon with haricot verts and roasted butternut squash. As does the “Chocolate Something” on the menu for dessert.
Pop in and “roost” over a relaxed meal and savor seasonal fare for lunch or dinner that includes rotisserie roasted meats and vegetables, fresh salads, grilled seafood and steaks, along with local and imported wines and craft beers. The “Rules of the Roost” promise sums it all up: “We will provide our guests with food that is tastefully crafted, humanely raised, mindfully sourced, and fairly priced.”
By Leslie WestbrookRoost, 1305 State St, Santa Barbara, phone: (805) 845-6337 www.roostsb.com . Open for lunch Mon - Fri 11:30 am to 2 pm; dinner Mon – Sat 5:30 pm to close
So Good!!
Savoy Café is Crowned Chowder Champ
While chowder isn’t synonymous with vegan cuisine, Savoy Café’s Jack Shields, son of owners Paul and Kathy Shields, proves that you don’t need dairy, or even traditional ingredients, to create a standout chowder. As this year’s winner of Santa Barbara’s 9th Annual Chowder Fest, Shields, who is sous chef at Savoy Café, drew his inspiration from the “sweet, salty, and spicy flavors” of the vegan food he worked with while living in San Francisco. In fact, this coconut milk-based rendition – a play on traditional panang curry – was his first experimentation with chowder. The winning recipe includes coconut milk, onion, ginger, purple potatoes, kabocha squash, and bay scallops, and while it’s technically not vegan, Savoy’s first entry into the popular chowder competition shows that chowder doesn’t necessarily need cream to shine. We’d say he’s onto something.
Also taking home honors at the October event held at the Santa Barbara Maritime Museum was Crocodile Restaurant & Bar, which claimed third place in the judged category and won the overall People’s Choice honors. Bluewater Grill took second place in the judged category.—By
Hana-Lee SedgwickMartini Memories
How could I not check out Chaplin’s Martini Room, since my godmother, Virginia Cherrill Martini (1908-1996), lived in Montecito, had the same last name as the cocktail, and starred as “the blind flower girl” in Charlie Chaplin’s classic “City Lights”? A toast in Virginia’s memory in the cozy, dark space of the Montecito Inn seemed in order.
“A vodka martini with blue cheese olives, please?” I asked.
Bartender Justin Hollon brought just such a perfect cocktail to our comfortable black leather booth and kindly fulfilled my request for jazz. A friend and I savored our drinks and conversation over a shared flavorful roasted chicken and veggies entree, cucumber salad, and irresistible bread and salty butter from the menu of The Monarch (next door), also served here. It was a perfect evening. The only thing missing was my godma.—LW
Chaplin’s Martini Bar, 1295 Coast Village Road, Montecito (805) 845-9310/ Open 5 pm- midnight. www.chaplinsmartinibar.com
Downtown Dish:
Doughnut Masterpieces and the Sunshine Spritz
by angela bordaToday is a beautiful day on State Street, and I’m in the mood for that most revered of breakfasts: doughnuts and coffee. But not just any doughnuts! John Burnett is making masterpieces of the humble fried dough at Hook & Press, a new collective across from the Santa Barbara Museum of Art.
Burnett wants people to “get excited about doughnuts again,” and it’s working. The doughnuts are fluffy, light, and unusual enough that people are lining up for them, tagging them on Instagram, and taking a visit here seriously as a foodie event.
Flavors like pomegranate, passion fruit, figs, and seasonal flavors imbue the doughnuts with the sensibility of a patisserie. Take for instance the apple pie doughnut. A soft, pillowy doughnut is topped with apple pie filling, pie crumbs, and a dollop of marshmallow topping. But my
favorite is the Mexican cocoa doughnut. Infused in the chocolate glaze is a wicked streak of cinnamon and cayenne that makes my lips tingle as I eat. As Burnett says, “Just because it’s fried doesn’t mean it shouldn’t be respected.”
After my feast (paired with superb Dark Horse coffee), I am buzzing on sugar and highoctane caffeine. Plenty of energy for the short trek to the museum, where we soak in the masterpieces of Monet and Renoir. But fine art has a way of making me thirsty, and it isn’t long before we’re setting our sights on Satellite, a wine bar just down the block with a great lunch menu.
I sit down with the jackfruit tacos, a delightful profusion of flavor, and ponder the drink menu. The open layout affords a great view of people walking by on State Street, and I can’t help but order the Sunshine Spritz. A light, crisp prosecco and a sunny round of orange smile at me
from the glass, along with a generous portion of ice cubes. It’s the kind of wine glass that affords a quantity of beverage and that satisfied feeling that you will not be thirsty by the time you leave. Not at all sweet, but far from bitter, the drink has a pleasant orange sweetness of Cappelletti, an aperitivo that has been used in the spritz since WWII. Added to that is the rubied Cocchi Rosa made of varietal wines to give a note of “wild rose and summer berries.” The Bellafina prosecco adds lift, that beautiful feeling of effervescence on the tongue. The result is a red-orange sunset, herbal and light. It is happiness in a glass, and the perfect ending to a day on State Street.
Hook & Press Donuts, 1131 State St., (805) 6896820. Satellite Santa Barbara, 1117 State St., (805) 364-3043
Smoked Goodness
Sometimes you can just look at a place and know there’s going to be some socko ribs inside. It helps if you’re downwind of the smoker and can catch a whiff of them getting all delectable above the smoldering applewood chips.
That’s the way it feels at The Creekside Restaurant & Bar. “We smoke ’em six hours at low temperature with a rub we created,” said owner/executive chef Dave Burkholder. They also created their own sauce, which comes on top and with a little extra on the side.
Ribs come as full or half rack, with beans, coleslaw, fries, and a roll. Servings are famously generous. “We don’t sell a lot of whole racks,” Burkholder said. “Not many can finish it.”
Ribs aren’t the only items logging time on the smoker. “We smoke all our meats,” Burkholder said. “Chicken, tri-tip, pork, ribs, even beets. The smoked beet salad is really good. Sweet and tangy, then a little smoke kicks in.”
On busy nights as many as 200 patrons can crowd through the Creekside door in a few hours. On those occasions, Burkholder is one of eight on duty in the kitchen, with 10 or 12 out front. Despite being heavily stocked in ribs, have they ever run out? “Sure,” he said.-- by Jeff Miller Creekside Restaurant & Bar 4444Holister Ave. 805-770-3200.
Building flavors
Saucy wine reductions for just the right touch
If you’re looking for something extra to pump up the flavors to your family meals, try these tantalizing techniques offered by our local chefs. And remember, for best reduction results, use the wine you’re actually drinking!
Pork CHoP marsala
By Ashley Hardin Serves 2This classic dish is quick and easy to prepare –succulent pork chops and buttery shiitake mushrooms in a rich Marsala wine sauce with citrusy Seckel pear.
INGREDIENTS
2 bone-in pork chops (about 8 ounces each)
All-purpose flour, for dredging
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp butter
4 oz shiitake mushrooms, torn in half
1⁄2 cup dry Marsala wine
1⁄2 cup chicken stock
1⁄2 small yellow onion, thinly sliced (2 oz)
2 tbsp crème fraiche
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1/2 bunch spinach
1 medium Seckel pear
PROCEDURE
In a large skillet over medium-high temperature, heat the oil and butter. Season both sides of the pork chops with salt and pepper. Put some flour in a shallow platter and dredge both sides of the pork in the flour, shaking off excess. Slip the pork chops into the pan and fry for 5 minutes on each side until golden brown and internal temperature reaches 145 degrees. Remove the pork to a resting rack and set aside.
In the same pan add the mushrooms and onions, sauté until the onions begin to brown or about 5-6 minutes. Pour the Marsala in the pan and simmer for 1 minute. Add the chicken stock and simmer for 5 minutes then reduce heat to low. Taste, then season with salt and pepper to flavor. Add crème fraiche and Dijon, whisk until combined. Fold in spinach and simmer until wilted. Nestle the cooked pork chops back into the Marsala sauce to warm.
Thinly slice the pear (use a mandolin for best results) and scatter on top of the pork chops and sauce. Serve warm in the pan with crusty bread.
CHiPotle-rubbed
Pork tenderloin witH
Caramelized Green aPPles witH Pinot Pan sauCe
8 servings
One of our most popular dishes this year. Outstanding flavor! Four years ago the U.S. Department of Agriculture lowered its safe cooking temperature for pork to 145 degrees, from the longtime standard of 160. The new recommendation is in line with what many cookbook authors and chefs have been saying for years.
2 pork tenderloins
Dry Rub:
2 tbsp ground chipotle chili powder
1 tbsp kosher salt
Apples:
4 green apples, peeled and sliced
2 tbsp butter
2 tbsp sugar
Pan Sauce:
1 1/2 cup pinot noir
2 tbsp butter
(to equal 1 cup caramelized)
Olive oil
4 oz of cranberries (can use dried cranberries; soak 1/2 hr in warm water)
2 tsp sugar
1 tsp fresh thyme
Pinch of salt
1/4 cup local Santa Barbara Pinot Noir
Sauté onions in oil over medium heat stirring occasionally until very dark. Add the rest of the ingredients, raise the heat and sauté another 10 minutes to reduce and meld. Cool filling.
1 sheet puff pastry
1 approx 5-inch round whole Brie, chilled hard and sliced horizontally
1 beaten egg
Sugar
1-2 baguettes
2 1/2 qt baking dish
Toast the nuts, set aside. Butter the baking dish well. In KitchenAid with whip attachment, mix all but nuts & nutmeg. Remove from machine & fold in the nuts. Put into the prepared baking dish & grate the nutmeg on top. This is where I hold it if I prepare it the day before. An hour before you want to serve it preheat oven to 350 degrees and bake it uncovered 45 minutes till WELL done.
Recipe by Pure Joy Catering
roasted GarliC masHed
Potatoes witH sb Cabernet drizzle
Serves 12
Dry-rub the pork. Pan sauté. Roast in preheated 350-degree oven in the sauté pan 10-15 minutes until internal temperature reaches 145.
Remove the pork from the oven. Let it rest 10 min in the pan. Sauté the apples in butter & sugar.
Move the pork onto the serving tray or cutting board. Put that sauté pan over high heat on the stove and add the wine. Deglaze, whisking occasionally until reduced by half then whisk in butter to finish the sauce.
Recipe by Pure Joy Catering
Caramelized onion, sb
Pinot noir and Cranberry
Filled brie en Croute
Excellent idea to make a couple as they must be frozen before baking anyway so have some extra on hand to whip out and wow unexpected guests.
Filling:
1 onion, quartered & sliced
Roll out one sheet of the puff pastry on floured surface firmly. Place half of the horizontally cut Brie cut side up in the center, Cut puff pastry corners off to make a circle. Top with your cooled filling. Top with the other half of the Brie wheel cut side down. Brush the surrounding pastry with egg wash and enclose, pinching to seal. Turn it over, brush with egg, sprinkle with sugar, and then freeze it.
To serve, preheat oven to 350. Put frozen hard Brie en croute on a vegetable oil-sprayed sheet pan into the hot oven. Bake till golden.
Recipe by Pure Joy Catering
sb CHardonnay sweet
Potato souFFlé
12-16 servings
5 cups roasted, mashed red sweet potatoes, skin removed
10 oz cream cheese
5 oz butter
2 eggs
1/3 cup brown sugar
6 tbsp Chardonnay
1/3 tsp salt
1 cup walnuts, toasted
1/3 tsp nutmeg
1/2 cube room temperature
butter to rub inside baking dish
I enjoy the depth roasted garlic adds to most savory dishes. Here’s an effortless way to have it on hand. Cover a couple cups of peeled garlic cloves in a small baking pan halfway with olive oil and cover the pan. Bake it at 350 degrees until golden and tender, about half an hour. Keep this in the refrigerator and use the oil or garlic to flavor many things, like this flawless side dish. (To skip this step however, you can buy roasted garlic paste.)
5 lb russet potatoes
6 oz butter
1 1/2 cups half & half 1/4 cup roasted garlic (recipe above), smashed to a paste
Salt & pepper to taste
Boil a pot of salted water, add the peeled & quartered potatoes and move them around in the pot occasionally so the bottom ones don’t go too fast, 25 to 30 minutes. Here’s the big trick to making really great mashed potatoes: Heat the butter and half & half in a small pot. When easily pierced with a fork, drain the potatoes in a colander. Do not use a food processor; pour them back in the same pot & smash them while piping hot, add HOT half & half and butter, whip/whisk till fluffy. Add the roasted garlic and salt & pepper to taste.
Recipe by Pure Joy Catering
For the SB Cabernet Drizzle: Use a peppery, smoky old world
Cabernet. The important part when picking a Cabernet is alcohol level and complimentary flavor profile. Remember, higher alcohol will reduce to a sweeter sauce; and the more you reduce a sauce, the more alcohol breaks down into sugar.
2 1/4 cups SB cabernet
3/4 cup balsamic vinegar
3 shallots, diced
3 tbsp butter
3 tbsp flour
3 fresh rosemary sprigs
Sauté shallots, butter, and flour for 3 minutes over medium heat. Stir in red wine, vinegar and rosemary. Bring to a simmer and reduce by 1/2 volume. Add salt and pepper to taste, serve drizzled on the mashed potatoes – or anything handy!
Recipe by Pure Joy Catering
baked oysters witH sPinaCH, PanCetta, bay sCalloP, and Gewürztraminer beurre blanC
12 fresh oysters
1 tbsp butter
1/4 lb pancetta, chopped
1 lb cleaned fresh spinach
1/2 bottle Gewürztraminer wine
1 shallot
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 lb butter
1/4 lb bay scallops
Sauté pancetta in large sauté pan. Add spinach and toss just to wilt, set aside. For the sauce; Reduce wine by 3/4 with 1 chopped shallot, add heavy cream and bring to boil. Whisk in butter, set aside, and hold.
Shuck your oysters. Place spinach and pancetta mix over each oyster in their shells on a baking sheet, top with bay scallops. Bake at 350 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and top with the sauce.
Recipe by Pure Joy Catering
oysters witH loCal red wine miGnonette
Blend together and top 12 of the oysters with:
12 fresh oysters
3 oz Santa Barbara county red wine vinegar
2 tbsp red wine
4 shallots, minced
2 tbsp lemon juice
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp pepper
Shuck your oysters. Preheat your grill and oven. Prepare the baked oysters first & pop them into the oven. Put the grilled ones on the grill while those are baking. Lastly top the remaining ones with mignonette. To serve plate and pass one of each to your guests.
Recipe by Pure Joy Catering
beurre blanC
Makes 1 1/2 cups
Ingredients:
1 cup white wine
1 shallot, roughly chopped
1 tsp whole peppercorn
3 sprigs thyme
2 tbsp heavy cream
2 sticks butter, cubed and cold
1 tbsp lemon zest
1/4 cup lemon juice
Procedure:
Combine wine, shallot, peppercorns, and thyme in a 2-quart/small sauce pan, bring to a boil and reduce by half, about 10-15 minutes. Add cream halfway through the reduction process.
Remove the pot from the heat and slowly add the cold butter, whisking until fully combined. Don’t rush this step or the beurre blanc is at risk of breaking.
Once butter is fully emulsified, whisk in lemon zest and juice. Strain sauce through a fine-mesh sieve. Serve the sauce immediately, or store it in a thermos until you are ready to serve. The sauce can be made up to about an hour before serving, and then reheated. Do not let it bubble on the reheat.
Recipe by Ashley and Avery Hardin
While we’re never ones to pass on meat and potatoes, we love when this classic pairing gets reinvented. Chef Andrew Crawley, formerly of Locavore Kitchen, has done just that with his recipe for Grilled Flat Iron Steak and Poblano Mashed Potatoes. Served with smoked heirloom carrots and topped with a bright, flavorful chermoula sauce, this dish combines bold flavors and unexpected ingredients for a craveworthy meal fit for the season.
Steak + Grape
by hana-lee sedgWICkFlat iron steak witH Poblano masHed Potatoes, smoked Heirloom baby Carrots & CHermoula sauCe
2 flat iron steaks, 6 oz each
MASHED POTATOES
2 large russet potatoes
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup unsalted butter
2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp black pepper
POBLANO PUREE
1 poblano pepper, roasted, seeds & veins removed
1 garlic clove
1/4 bunch cilantro
1/4 bunch parsley
1/2 cup water
SMOKED ROASTED HEIRLOOM CARROTS
1/2 lb heirloom carrots
4 tsp olive oil
1 tsp salt
1 tsp black pepper
CHERMOULA SAUCE
1/4 cup leaf parsley
1/2 cup cilantro parsley
1 tsp roasted ground cumin
2 tsp smoked paprika
3 tsp lemon juice
1/2 cup olive oil
Potato Poblano Puree:
Peel potatoes. Fill a medium saucepan with cold water and add the potatoes. Bring to a boil, cook potatoes about 20 minutes. Drain and set aside. In another medium saucepan, warm cream and add butter to melt.
Roast poblano pepper over open flame (stove top) till black and blistered. Put in a Ziploc bag, seal and set aside for 10 minutes. Peel poblano pepper and remove seeds.
In a blender add cilantro, parsley, garlic, 5 tbsp water and the poblano pepper. Puree until well blended. Add puree to potato, mix until smooth. Salt and pepper to taste. Keep warm.
Chermoula Sauce:
Finley chop flat leaf parsley and cilantro. In a nonstick pan, toast the cumin until fragrant (about 1 min). Add all ingredients to a bowl, add olive oil and whisk together. Set aside.
Roasted Heirloom Carrots: Toss carrots in olive oil, salt and pepper, then place on baking sheet and cook in a 350-degree oven until tender.
Steak: Steak should be at room temperature before grilling or searing. Salt and pepper the steak and lightly coat with oil. Cook steak to desired temperature. After steak is cooked, allow to rest for a few minutes before slicing.
To Assemble Dish: Place a heaping spoon full of potato poblano puree on the bottom of the plate (approx. 1/4 cup), and place carrots on top of puree. Slice steak on an angle, set approximately 5 pieces on top of carrots. Apply a tablespoon of chermoula sauce over the steak and garnish with micro greens or parsley.
Wine Pairing
For this dish, chef Crawley reaches for a Rhône style blend from Grace + Vine, a small, collaborative effort between four wine industry veterans who source fruit from some of the Central Coast’s best vineyards. A blend of equal parts grenache, cinsault, mourvèdre and counoise, the 2015 Grace + Vine CounterPoint displays aromas of bright red fruit, baking spice, and red licorice. Red fruit and spice notes carry through onto the palate, which is accented by notes of fresh herbs, fine tannins, and a long finish. While the wine is full enough to pair with the heaviness of the steak, it also has a rustic quality that complements the casual side of this dish.
A Space for Collectors
A classy place to store your best grape
As you pull open the large rusted steel door of the Wine Collector’s Room you are met with a rush of cold air from the dimly lit space. Once inside, the dark wood catches your eye and draws you in. Ryan Carr has created a new space in downtown Santa Barbara for individuals to age, store, and enjoy their wine collections. The space, located within Carr Winery, features just over 40 individual lockers in a climate-
controlled building. The lockers range in size to fit your needs. Members can have wine shipped directly to their lockers and have access to the Collector’s Lounge where they can relax, share, and enjoy their collection.
Wine Collector’s Room. SB’s newest private wine storage facility. 414 Salsipuedes Street 805.689.3569 www.winecollectorsroom.com
am still thanking him. When a cus tomer asks if there is a really good local Cabernet on par with tradi tional Bordeaux wines (12-13% alcohol) I direct them to this wine from Ernst Storm. The wine is all about balance and finesse.
2015 A Tribute to Grace Wine Company Grenache: bourne produces the county’s most elegant and savory Grenaches. It’s a treat for us to open a bottle at Renegade and watch people’s faces the first time they experience her wines. “This is Grenache?” they ask. “We’ll take a case!”
Do you have any food pairings you’d suggest for these wines?
I chose five different varietals to give a sense of the range of our lo cal wines. The food that would pair perfectly with each wine is equally diverse.
Renegade Q & A
…and five local wines you just have to own
Steve Wayne, owner of Renegade Wines, has curated a highly coveted collection of European imports and regional boutique wines at his beloved downtown wine shop, where you’ll find everything from hard-to-find, high-end bottlings to budgetfriendly gems. I sat down with the wine aficionado to talk shop and learn about five Santa Barbara wines he’s digging right now.
I know the wine bug hits everyone differently, so how did you get into wine?
There was always a bottle of wine on the table growing up, but it wasn’t until I was in high school working at a cheese and wine shop that I tasted a revolution: 1976 Krug Champagne. It was the most intensely satisfying wine that I have had, and it opened my eyes to how great wine can be. Fastforward some years and I met the original owner of Renegade Wines, Frank Crandall [who established the shop in 1990]. One Friday afternoon, he celebrated the busy week by opening a 1998 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne from
the Burgundy region of France. My first taste resulted in me exclaiming, “There’s no way this is Chardonnay!” After that there was no turning back. Wine had become more than just a drink, it was an experience.
Renegade is known for its great selection of wine. Can you explain it in your words?
We are predominantly focused on European imports with an emphasis on Italian and French selections, balanced by local and Northern California wines. With few exceptions, we taste nearly every wine before purchasing. We gravitate towards family-owned, small-production wines that aren’t found in the chains and have a penchant for being environmentally conscious.
You’ve chosen five Santa Barbara wines you carry that are favorites of yours at the moment. Tell me a bit about them.
2015 JCR Vineyard Pinot Noir
Estate: Winemaker Alison Thomson is absolutely brilliant. This 2015 raises the bar on how quality
Pinot Noirs can be great and affordable in Santa Barbara. Though she is no longer making the wine for JCR, her mark is on this wine and we are enjoying every single sip.
2015 Crawford Family Wines Chardonnay Tin Shack: Mark and Wendy Horvath are lovely people, and their wines reflect this. This small, family-run operation produces stellar wines like this clean, fresh, vibrant Chardonnay.
2016 Brander Sauvignon Blanc
au Naturel: What can one say about a legend that hasn’t already been said? Fred Brander is a class act. His wines range from the fun and whimsical to the serious and courageous. This 100-percent Sauvignon Blanc receives 24 hours of skin contact before resting on the lees for about five months. The result is a seriously complex wine that is the benchmark of Santa Barbara County Sauvignon Blancs.
2014 Notary Public Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve: A friend introduced me to this wine and I
Roast duck breast with the JCR Pinot is a classic, and we love Craw ford Family Chardonnay with salm on rillette. Brander’s Sauvignon Blanc is excellent with the whole steamed sole at China Pavilion, and I can’t think of anything better than a beautiful, medium-rare NY steak with Storm’s Notary Public Caber net. And for the brilliantly bright Grenache from A Tribute to Grace, roasted pork loin is sublime.
What about pairings in gener al? Are you a fan of matching food with wine and vice versa? Do you have any favorite pairings?
Matching food and wine is some thing I do daily, both personally and professionally. When we’re cooking at home, we love roast chicken with Loire Valley Cabernet Franc. Cha blis and oysters, red Burgundy and duck confit, Brunello with squid ink pasta and pork ragu, Auslese Ries ling and dim sum, the list goes on...
When someone asks if it really matters, I honestly tell them some times it doesn’t. Sometimes you want to drink that seductive Pe tit Sirah from Ridge even though you’ve prepared a salad Nicoise. The bottom line is whatever makes you happy!
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Sustainable Sipping
A grand new way to experience the wine country
by Jeff mIller Photos by Constance GilliesQIs it possible to visit Burgundy and Bordeaux in one day, tasting the best wines of those regions, without ever traveling more than 50 miles from Santa Barbara as the falcon flies?
A. Yes.
Q: Oh, and can it be done in a sunshine-powered vehicle that can steer itself?
A: Yes again. Our little family group took this tour recently, and we’re understating our review of it as memorable.
It began when Scott Bull of Sustainable Vine Wine Tours arrived in the company’s new Tesla Model X. (They also offer a customized Mercedes van for groups of six to eight.) He pulled up in front of our house in Santa Barbara, opened the X’s falcon wings, and away we whisked.
Q: Is it possible for Bull to describe the region we’re about to visit by showing us a map using two hands while letting the car do the driving?
A: Yes. It happened, briefly, because we wanted to see it happen.
Bull is half of the two-man Sustainable Vine Wine Tours team with co-owner Bryan Hope. They take “Sustainable” seriously. For example, they made a point of installing solar panels on their Santa Barbara houses so
the Tesla can be charged by sunshine. We headed northwest toward the Santa Ynez Valley in this vehicle of the future as Bull described the region’s ancient past. Bull, who has a master’s in marine science from UCSB (not to mention a sommelier certificate), told us all about the creation of the Santa Ynez and San Rafael mountains, whose rare east-west tilt made the valley a wine-growing paradise, with breezes funneling in from the ocean, gradually warming as they reach the backstop of the San Gabriel Mountains. The resulting microclimates, combined with friendly soil conditions, make it possible to grow cool-loving Burgundy-style grapes to the west and warm-loving Bordeaux-style grapes to the east, with a bit of Rhône in between.
We began at Dragonette, which provides an overview of it all because this winery culls the best grapes from throughout the region to create its wines. But we’re not visiting the tasting room in Los Olivos. We’re headed to Dragonette’s production facility in the “Buellton Bodegas,” where eight wineries share equipment. That’s where the essence of the Sustainable
Vine Wine Tours philosophy was revealed. We pulled in beside Valley Automotive, to a building more warehouse than showplace. But “this is where the magic happens,” Bull said. Rather than the usual tasting room parade, Sustainable arranges private visits with winemakers who are strict about environmental stewardship, who are knowledgeable, engaging, and, of course, makers of high-quality wine. Of the hundreds of wineries in the valley, “about a dozen meet our standards,” Bull said. “We seek out little gems.”
Inside the building sales director Patton Penhallegon gave us a more in-depth briefing on the fortuitous formation of the mountain ranges that “created one of the most diverse viticultural regions on Earth.” Within that region, the Dragonette team chooses what it considers the finest vineyards, leases rows, and then works those rows straight through harvest, hands-on virtually every day.
The proof was in the products that Penhallegon poured for us to taste, a chardonnay, a pinot noir, and two Syrahs. If you’re looking for evidence of the work that goes into a great wine’s creation, the 2016 Seven Syrah’s name
offers a hint. It’s a blend of grapes from seven of the region’s best cool-climate vineyards, selected from specific blocks and clones within those vineyards to give the blend its fine complexity.
From there we ventured to Larner Vineyard & Winery, where a pioneer of the region, Michael Larner himself, took us on a stroll through the vines. In addition to encyclopedic knowledge of all things wine, Larner also brings to the table his training in geology, which underpins everything that pours into the growing of excellent grapes.
At a table outside the barn we tasted a Malvasia bianca, a rosé, a red blend, and a syrah, while Larner explained the care that went into growing and making them. He also told of the family history that led to the vineyard’s creation in 1999. “This was nothing; it was all cattle. Virgin land,” he said, looking over the rolling hills now covered in grapevines. “We loved this site because of the great southern exposure and the sandy soils.”
At the table Bull served us lunch that we had ordered before the tour. Mine paired especially well with the Larner 2015 Elemental red blend.
Our last stop was Brave & Maiden Estate, where Laini Jacobsen poured us a merlot, a cabernet franc, a cabernet sauvignon, and a syrah in the brand new, gleaming tasting room. It was a departure from the previous locations, selected by Bull to show us the tremendous variety of wine experiences available in the valley.
Then it was back into the Tesla for the glide home, where Bull offered one more astonishing factoid in a day full of them. “More grapes are grown in this valley than in all of France,” he said.
A fitting end to a fabulous day in Santa Barbara’s own international wine country.
One more thing…
There were moments during our excursion with SVWT when we could feel the cosmic forces that had been working hard for eons to make sure great wine would be made in this valley.
One happened as we were standing in Larner Vineyard, looking out over the rolling terrain, when geologist/winemaker Michael Larner said this:
“If we were standing here on this vineyard about 20 million years ago, we’d be underwater and down by San Diego.”
What happened next was the northward slide of the Pacific Plate and the grinding against the western edge of the continent, which created the Santa Ynez and San Rafael mountains. So now, even though the land is 600 feet above sea level,
the former sea bottom is right below the surface. Larner pointed to the top of a nearby hill and said it’s a fine spot to look for fossilized seashells. That sea bottom right below the soil “is very alkaline,” Larner said. “You couldn’t grow certain crops, like avocados, which die in lime, but it’s very conducive for grape-growing. Grapes love low soil pH and love exposure on southfacing sandy slopes because they don’t get waterlogged.”
Another moment happened earlier, when our tour guide/sommelier, Scott Bull, noted that grapevines “like to struggle,” so they do well in dry, rocky places.
And again when Patton Panhallegon at Dragonette Winery said the unique west-east air flow sluiceway created by the mountains allows grapes to be warm during the day but cool at night. That in turn creates a longer “hang time” for grapes here. As much as 40 days longer. “Longer than anywhere else on earth,” he said. That builds sugars and fruit intensity. The cool also persuades the grapes to grow thicker skins, and that’s where the flavor is.
They say great wine is half art and half science, but by the end of our tour, the experts had made a case that tipped the scales slightly in favor of the latter. As Larner himself said, “If I do the job right in the vineyard, the job in the winery is a piece of cake.”
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Q & A with Tim Snider
Tim Snider has been around the wine business since he was 15 years old, when he worked summers at his parents’ small vineyard in Knights Valley, Northern California. Thirty years later he’s still in the family wine business, only this time in a much bigger way, as president of Fess Parker Winery in Los Olivos.
Snider has been involved with every aspect of the business except with the actual winemaking, although he’s worked closely with many top talents, including Blair Fox, the current winemaker at Fess Parker. Snider’s background is in marketing, sales, and cultivating the all-important wine club, which he says is the strongest form of communication between the winery and its customers. With his wife, Ashley; brother-in-law Eli Parker; daughter, Greer; and son, Spencer, Snider continues to build on one of the most respected family run wineries in the tri-county area. Food & Home Magazine managed to get a few moments with him between sales trips to New York and London, England, for this interview.
F&H: Why wine as a career?
TS: When I was working summers on my parents’ vineyard, I met people in the industry that I really enjoyed. I liked the culture, the lifestyle. I didn’t know it then but I was actually being groomed for what I do today. I ran track in college [400-meter hurdles] and I studied political science, none of which was wine-related. But when I came home for the summers I couldn’t wait to get to work in the winery. It just clicked.
F&H: How big is Fess Parker Winery?
TS: We’re celebrating our 30th anniversary this year, and compared to where we started we’ve grown a lot. But compared to some of the corporate wineries in Napa and Europe, some of which have been around for 150 years and more, we’re small. We have a few labels that have national distribution, which is great, but as a whole, our brand is regionally based and family-run and we like it that way. We have four individual wines with production over 5,000 cases. Everything else is about 1,000 cases or less.
F&H: What is a typical day for you at Fess Parker?
TS: It usually starts early with my sales team going over distribution and networking, new markets, things like that. A fair amount of time is spent meeting with the accounting department going over finance and cash flow. Not the most
glamorous part of the day but it’s important and needs to get done. A big part of the day is spent on building the brand and communicating our message to the customer. We do a lot of that through our wine club, which is by far our most effective media. The club gives us an opportunity to meet our customers in person when we have tasting events and get the personal feedback on all our products. We also have strong community ties through our local food bank and the Lobero Theatre, where we get a chance to give back. I guess the most glamorous part of the job is getting to travel to big wine events like the Robert Parker Wine Advocate’s “A Matter of Taste” event. I mean, who doesn’t like being in the same room with the best wines in the world!
F&H: Speaking of travel, you have extensive experience in Australia and Europe, both in tasting and selling. What do they do differently in their winemaking as compared to home. and have you learned a few things from them?
TS: I don’t know if they do anything that different than us. European wines like Champagne and Burgundy tend to be a little lighter with lower alcohols due to cooler climates and picking early. Australia is very hot and arid, and that influences those wines too, with many tending to be bigger, bolder, and riper in style. I guess
what I’ve seen in some of the more successful wineries around the world is that they stick to producing wines that are an expression of the region. That’s what gives it soul. Technology and science are important, but staying true to where you are is the key to making great wine. Just look at the pinots (noir) coming out of our own Sta. Rita Hills. World-class stuff!
F&H: What would you like the wine consumer to know about Fess Parker and the local region in general?
TS: At Fess Parker, we’re proud to carry forward Fess’s vision of being successful while remaining family-owned and -operated. We’re fortunate to have one of the best winemakers in Blair Fox, who’s been with us for almost 15 years. He’s consistently bringing new ideas to the table for special releases, and our single vineyard releases really showcase the quality we’re capable of. As for the region, we have some very talented winemakers who make some terrific wines that
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are year over year just getting better. The region is also becoming a wine-tasting destination that has gone global over the last 20 years. The tasting experience can be as casual or as elegant as you want to make it. I know a lot of locals that come over the hill to the valley, taste a few wines, buy a few wines, build their wine knowledge firsthand, have lunch in the vineyard, and go home. It’s like a mini vacation.
For more info on Fess Parker wines, their wine club events and tasting hours, go to www.fessparker.com
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The first seeds of winemaking were planted when Jim Clendenen (of Au Bon Climat) and Bob Lindquist (Qupe) would come into Wine Cask to dine and imbibe. One day in 1986 the trio decided to create their own wine called Vita Nova. Vita Nova mainly created Chardonnay for by-the-glass programs for some of the top restaurants in the country. In 1998, Clendenen bought the two partners out. Three years later Margerum birthed Margerum Winery in what was at the time the “smallest bonded winery in California.”
“I carved out a little space — 240 square feet — behind Fred Brander’s winery, that no one could see!” recalled Margerum, who was buying grapes from Happy Canyon, Ballard Canyon, and Los Alamos vineyards. Four years later, in 2005, he expanded his operation. “The very lovely Firestone family allowed me to lease a space behind Curtis Winery [now Andrew Murray] on Foxen Canyon,” he recalled.
His winemaking space now expanded tenfold to 2,400 square feet, Margerum produced primarily Sauvignon Blanc, a Rhône red wine blend called M5, and single-vineyard Syrah there until 2012 when he moved to his current, state-of-the-art winemaking facility, warehouse and offices comprising 10,000 square feet in Buellton to, he says, “bring it all home.”
But how and when did his path to full-time winemaker really begin, I wondered.
Although Margerum’s parents took their family on what he calls “the classic European vacation, where they let me taste wine” when he was young, it wasn’t until many years later, in 2001, that he would have his real “epiphany” that helped him morph into a winemaker, thanks to an auction prize.
“I won one of the lots for tickets to Jazz Fest in New Orleans that included meals at several of Emeril Lagasse’s restaurants,” he said. “We went to NOLA Restaurant and then to Emeril’s and then to Delmonico’s. I walked in and their sommelier, Chris Robles, said, ‘Let me do a tasting menu for you.’ Emeril’s executive chef was cooking that night. I was at the top of my game at Wine Cask at that point, but these guys put out plates of food and wines I’d never had — and they were great. I was very, very impressed.”
50 YEAR ANNIVERSARY 1969–2019
The Passionate Winemaker: Doug Margerum
How did the UCSB graduate and longtime Santa Barbara restaurateur become a winemaker? Serendipity, passion, and a chance encounter in NOLA
Anyone who’s lived in Santa Barbara for any length of time at least knows the name, if not the person, Doug Margerum. A familiar face and well known as a longtime restaurateur and premier winemaker of not only his own eponymous label, Margerum also shepherds neophyte winemakers from grape to bottle.
I first met Margerum many decades ago when he and his family owned the original Wine Cask restaurant, which was a dark and cozy, hole-in-the
wall tucked inside the beautiful El Paseo. He sold Wine Cask in 2007, reopened it in 2009 with bouchon’s Mitchel Sjveren, and they recently sold their interest to the managing partner, Anda Ashkar.
Starting Wine Cask in1981, Margerum was a very young, budding connoisseur of wines. But he wouldn’t create his own winery for two more decades. That dream came to fruition thanks to a serendipitous trip to New Orleans, of all places.
After the incredible 12-course, wine-paired feast, Doug was drinking bourbon at 2 a.m. in front of fireplace with the sommelier, who asked him this:
“What do you really want to do?”
Doug replied, “I really want to make wine.”
Robles then said, “Well, I want to come out to California and manage your restaurant.”
“Great!” Doug answered and the two shook hands on the gentlemen’s agreement. “I woke up the next morning and said to myself, Did I really hire that guy?”
He did.
Fortunately, it turned out to be a terrific, life-changing, decision. Chris Robles moved to Santa Barbara and ably managed Wine Cask, freeing Margerum to make wine.
“That incident allowed me to change my path and focus on making wine,” he recalled.
The rest, as they say, is happy winemaker history.
A matter of taste
Local chefs pair their best
Ninety percent of the fun in drinking wine is pairing it with the food you’re eating. But if the booming local wine scene, where lists of 500-plus wines are commonplace and leave your head spinning, consider these tips from the experts: “Basically there are four paths to consider,” says Mitchell Sjerven, owner of bouchon Santa Barbara, which features over 50 loccal wines by the glass on the menu. “Complement or contrast and preparation over protein. For instance, at bouchon we serve a trio of scallops as a starter that features one scallop with citrusy grapefruit marmalade, which pairs well with a crisp Sauvignon blanc, while another scallop is served with a creamy risotto, best accompanied by a local chardonnay of equal richness.” The suggestion would be to have a half glass of each as you enjoy the dish.
Leonard Schwartz, executive chef and general manager of Lucky’s Steakhouse in Montecito, says there’s no question that big reds go well with dark meats such as their porterhouse or New York strips and lighter reds with the lighter meats, like pork or veal — “But nothing is etched in stone.” Sjerven agrees and adds: “It’s really not the protein that drives it; it’s what the chef does to it.”
For instance, when people demand that fish should be served with white wine, he says what they’re really imagining is a dish like Dover sole with beurre blanc sauce; at bouchon, the salmon dish is often prepared with hearty, earthy, full flavors that are “screaming for pinot noir.” Sjerven also suggests choosing wines from the same region as the food, or “taste of place,” allowing for a more authentic and natural experience.
With these basic tips in mind, the following is a short collection of some of the best from local kitchens. Enjoy!
Casa Blanca—Lamb Birria with rice and fresh vegetables. This hearty and spicy Latin dish pairs well with Los Cardos Cabernet Sauivignon, Dona Paula Estate, Argentina.
Jane--Organic Ruby Chard and Winter Squash Galette. All butter pastry dough with acorn and butternut squash, ruby chard, caramelized onions, Swiss cheese and fresh thyme. This savory dish pairs beautifully with the aromas of sage and hints of black pepper present in the 2015 Grassini Family Vineyards Estate Merlot.
Fishouse—Grilled local lobster and asparagus. Pair with Santa Barbara County Au Bon Climat, 2015 Pinot Gris.
Louie’s at the Upham—Filet of Sole with angel hair pasta and asparagus. Paired with Foxen Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County.
Bouchon Santa Barbara-- Maple-glazed California
& confit of thigh served with succotash of sweet corn, fava beans, leeks, applewoodsmoked bacon and Windrose Farms butternut squash, port-thyme demi-glace. Paired with Fiddlehead Cellars
Harbor Restaurant—Hope Ranch Mussels in roasted chile sauce, tomato and olive oil. Pair with Listel Rose, France.
Chucks Waterfront Grill—Grilled salmon with fresh vegetables and garlic mash. Pair with Jalama Canyon Ranch Pinot Noir.
Petit Valentien—Ethiopian combination plate featuring Injer (flatbread) chicken, potato, spicy beets, spicy pumpkin, house cheese, kale, eggplant and turmeric. Served Saturday and Sunday for lunch only. Pair with Fess Parker Pinot Noir, Ashley’s Vineyard, 2015.
Stella Mare-- Saumon En Croute.
Salmon baked in pastry stuffed with mushroom duxelles, braised baby turnips, creamed carrot mousseline, roasted mushrooms with a red wine demi-glace. Pair with Stella Mare house Cabernet Sauvignon.
Hoffmann Brat Haus
HOME STYLE
Gourmet Sausage & Age old Craft Beer
Hoffmann Brat Haus is a locally owned family business. Our vision was inspired by the European tradition of families and friends coming together to share meals and stories. Our goal is to create a restaurant that feels like home while providing a unique and memorable experience.
Try Gourmet Sausages and some of the Worlds best beer selections. Beer Bar, Sports Bar, Patio Seating, Gluten Free, Vegetarian and Vegan Options, Dog Friendly, WIFI, fire pits available. Happy Hour 2-6 Sunday - Friday. Live Music Thursday and Sunday. Open Daily.
Grape storage upgrades
Looking for classy way to keep your best wines at the correct temperature? The Sub-Zero 30-inch integrated wine storage unit offers a full beverage center-in-one solution that combines wine storage with refrigerator and freezer drawers. Wine lovers can quickly inventory their collection displayed on cherry wood-faced, roller-glide racks through the UV resistant glass door. Protective features guard against heat, light and humidity, and the unit can connect to a home security system.
Available at Ferguson Bath, Kitchen & Lighting. Showroom at 602 East Montecito St. 805-962-5811.
Santa Barbara Style
The ultra chic and modern Stanza Round Coffee
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HOME STYLE
ComPiled by leslie a. westbrookPouring the best
French winemaker Christian Moueix says he prefers to decant his wines, both young and old. It is a sign of respect for old wines and a sign of confidence in young wines. Decanting old wines, just a few moments before they are served, helps to ensure that the clarity and brilliance are not obscured by any deposits that may have developed over time. Decanting young wines several hours before serving gives the wine a chance to bloom and attain a stage of development that normally requires years of aging. Riedel decanters are some of the best in the world and their top seller is The Boa. Fabricated from mouth-blown lead crystal, this elegant decanter features a tightly coiled, serpentine design. Seeming to defy gravity, the elegant, dramatic lines of this vino vessel make it easy to pour, giving it function as well as beauty. ($225 - $525)
Available at Coast 2 Coast Collection 1114 State St. Suite 10. 805-845-7888. www.c2ccollections.com
Cheers to French oak
by leslIe WestbrookWinemakers age wines in genuine French oak barrels that provide a certain elegance and creamy quality to the wine largely due to the silky tannins. The tannins also provide a nice, even color for French Oak used for equally elegant, visually appealing flooring with natural hand-hewn texture and an appealing patina from Reed Interiors.
Owner Romain Doussineau carries a unique, exclusive range of French oak flooring that he imports directly from his native France, which means he can also pass on savings directly to his customers. From wide planks or parquet patterns, the oak can be installed in a variety of colors and finishes. The collection includes the finest French white oak flooring with century-old, European aging techniques applied.
Not all oaks are created equally. To the untrained eye, European and American oak may appear very similar, but each species has very distinct characteristics that set them apart from each other, such as natural color, tone variation, plank length, and distinctive grain patterns. French Oak has higher tannin content and less sapwood, which enables it to absorb stains much more consistently.
“There are only a few showrooms in the entire United States that carry flooring like ours,” Romain noted, that in addition to the high quality of the product, he is proud of his team of skilled installers and it makes a big difference on the result. Reeds Interiors provides a lifetime guarantee on the installation work.
The wood can be antiqued or installed with a modern finish. Homeowners can choose the width of the boards, whether solid or engineered, with wire brush or smooth finish. French Oak tends to have a more wavy and interesting grain pattern; a variety of color options that accentuate the natural grain pattern of the wood, can be selected as well. Reed Interiors offers more than flooring and is a one-stop design showroom. Their interior design services and products include modern or transitional Italian custom cabinets for kitchens, bathrooms and closets. They are also Gaggenau or Miele appliances dealers and offer a wide variety of countertops solutions. They carry fabrics for interior or outdoor projects from the vast range of upholstery solutions. Furniture pieces include modern sofas and custom-made tables from Mexico. The showroom also offers a wide selection of window treatments and rugs for the finishing touches.
“We have a, professional, very talented, precision and quality-driven team to help our customers through the process from selection and education to installation all the way to the finish line. It makes a huge difference. I am very proud of our team,” Romain concluded, “And we save interior designers and homeowners alike a trip to Los Angeles for their design solutions.”
Reed Interiors showroom located at 590 E. Gutierrez St. (805) 684.7583 www.reed-interiors.com
Sustainable Flooring Options
by dennIs allenWhat properties, besides cost, warrant consideration when considering flooring choices? Health issues such as toxicity or the avoidance of bacteria, dust and allergens need foremost attention.
Health concerns should disqualify carpeting. Although there are eco-friendly choices for carpeting, such as wool, sisal, P.E.T. Berber (made from recycled plastic bottles) and carpet tiles, none of these avoid the inherent problem with all carpeting: the trapping of dirt, mites, pesticides, and chemicals tracked in from outside. The AIA (American Institute of Architects) did a study some years ago, weighing newly installed carpeting that was steam cleaned weekly over its 10-year life and weighing it again when pulled up. Despite the rigorous cleaning schedule, it weighed three times its original weight. No cleaning method can completely remove the dirt and bacteria that get ground into carpeting.
If we rule out carpeting, what are other good choices? Wood flooring is one. Durability, recycled, reclaimed or renewable material, and transportation distance are key criteria for environmentally friendly flooring. Taking these measures into account, wood flooring rates
high. Solid wood flooring is not usually considered sustainable due to deforestation concerns, but if the wood comes from forests that are responsibly and sustainably managed and that carry the FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) certification guarantee, such worry is negated.
Reclaimed wood milled into flooring or, even better, reclaimed wood flooring is another way to get attractive flooring without logging existing forests. Then there is pre-finished, engineered wood flooring (FSC certified). Engineered wood is more stable than sawn boards, uses less wood per square foot, and avoids offgassing when toxic-free adhesives are used. Although frequently considered along with wood flooring, bamboo is actually a rapidly growing grass and thus supremely renewable. Make certain the bamboo is mature, four- to sixyear growth, because flooring made from twoto three-year-old bamboo is soft and scuffable. A variation, strand-woven bamboo, has more of a wood-grain look, is stable and extremely hard — twice as hard as oak. The only drawback to bamboo is that most of it comes from China, requiring transportation halfway around the world.
Concrete isn’t usually thought of as sustainable or as flooring. When made with a high-percentage fly-ash mix, concrete becomes considerably greener. Fly-ash is a waste product from coal power plants that can be substituted for cement and greatly reduces its greenhouse gas emissions. Concrete slabs can be turned into beautiful, eco-friendly flooring through selection of score pattern, use of organic dyes, and careful polishing — often being made to look like stone, tile, or old leather. As finish flooring, it saves the expense and material needed to install another finish floor over it. Concrete flooring contributes to high-quality indoor air. Other sustainable flooring choices include naturally cushioned, anti-microbial, sound- and thermal-insulating cork (bark from cork oak trees); linoleum made from linseed oil, cork dust, tree resins, and limestone; and glass tiles made from recycled glass bottles.
Flooring can be beautiful, easy on the environment, and promoting of good health. And there’s a wide variety of choices.
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Backyard vineyards
Tips on growing your own grape.
by lisa CullenImagine strolling through your own vineyard, the vines heavy with deep, dark clusters of grapes bursting with juice waiting for the exact moment to be harvested and turned into wine.
post office box 369, santa barbara, ca 93102 | tel: 805.682.2226 projectsgc.com license #884424
Perhaps the notion of having your own vineyard appeals to your romantic nature. Making wine is one thing, but most winemakers will tell you that growing grapes for wine is an entirely different discipline; that they are farmers first and then winemakers. The school of “minimal
manipulation” depends upon good fruit.
Select your variety
Connect with a local winery and get their input on what varieties to plant in your backyard vineyard. They may even be able to recommend where to buy the vines. Santa Barbara’s cool climate can produce some of the most elusive varieties, from chardonnay to riesling and of course all of the Rhone varietals.
As far as how many vines to plant, the rule
of thumb is that you need approximately 20 pounds of fresh fruit for each gallon of homemade wine. If each vine produces five pounds and you’d like to make one five-gallon batch from your own grapes each year, then plant 20 vines (plus a few extra, just in case). If you’re planting, let’s say, a quarter-acre in vines, you’ll plant about 50 vines. It will take about five years of tending before your first harvest; so don’t be in a hurry. You can spend that time taking classes!
Planting your vineyard
The mantra “Location, location, location” applies to vineyards more than any other crop. We’ve all heard the word “terroir,” the French word loosely meaning “a sense of place.” The soil, terrain, climate, and minerals all combine to create a unique expression of the place. A southfacing hillside with rocky, gravely, even chalky soil, is ideal. I recall Bryan Babcock telling me about seeing a limestone hillside and knowing it was the perfect place to plant his next vineyard of chardonnay. The rocks warm up the soil, which helps the vines thrive. Grapevines hate wet feet, thus good drainage is key. Hillsides are typically the best places to plant for this reason. Clay soil doesn’t drain, so avoid that if you can. South- or southwest-facing slopes will ensure maximum sunshine. A soil test to determine fertility will guide you and will ensure the site is appropriate for vines and the soil isn’t harboring any diseases. Plant the vines in gopher wire to protect them from critters. Because you’re going to be drinking the product of your vines, organic methods are best. Enliven the earth with good microbes and soil food.
Tending the vines
There are many philosophies about pruning and trellising. Fortunately there’s plenty of
time between planting and harvesting to study up. With all of the vineyards in Santa Barbara County, I’m sure you could work in several (who wouldn’t want a bit of free labor?), to get your hands dirty and learn.
mant. Again, if you’re serious about learning, volunteer at a local vineyard during pruning season.
Winemaking
Before you make the wine, you might consider joining the Central Coast Home Vintners’ Association (www.cchva.org). Based in Santa Maria, the association consists of over 100 home-based winemakers who collaborate, sharing knowledge and expertise. They also have cooperative equipment for crushing, and resources for buying grapes. They can even supply corks.
Enjoying the fruits of your labor
Harvest
A number of years ago, we had a friend who had a small vineyard in front of his house in Arroyo Grande. When the grapes were ready for harvest he invited all his friends to a picking party. Afterwards, there was a feast on the terrace overlooking the vines. It was a blast!
Pruning
Prune in the winter when the vines are dor-
Growing grapes for winemaking is a lot of work, and not for the faint of heart. But like any gardening activity, the rewards are worth it. Gardening is a lifelong passion and particularly when you delve into the art of wine, it bodes for a long-term relationship. Until next time, fill your garden with joy! And vines!
Lisa Cullen, landscape designer and organic gardener, owns Montecito Landscape with her husband, Chris. She can be reached at 805.969.3984 or www.montecitolandscape.com
Stylish flavors
DINING OUT
CARPINTERIA
Garden Market. Garden Market is a gem tucked into Santa Claus Lane. Offering very tasty sandwiches, salads, smoothies and casual fare the Garden Market is a very enjoyable place to have a lunch break. Open Monday–Sunday 8am-5pm. [BrL] $ (BW) 3811 Santa Claus Lane (805) 745-5505
Sly’s. James Sly, formerly of Lucky’s in Montecito, is back to cooking the finest steaks anywhere. Sly’s is open daily for dinner from 5 pm, features a full bar and extended wine list. (LD) $$ (FB). Reservations are suggested. 686 Linden Ave. 805-684-6666.
MONTECITO
CAVA. Experience the bold flavors of Spain, Mexico and Latin America in a romantic garden setting. [BLD] $$, (FB) 1212 Coast Village Road, 969-8500. Lucky’s. Montecito’s only premium steakhouse. Great wine list and martini selections. Great weekend brunch served 9am-3pm. [BrD] $$$, (FB) 1279 Coast Village Road, 565-7540.
Stella Mare’s. Overlooking the Bird Refuge in Santa Barbara…a glass greenhouse, sofas by the fire, casual French décor and traditional French Country Cuisine. Full bar and extensive American & French wine list, great private rooms for your event needs and Live Jazz on Wednesdays. Closed on Mondays $$ [LDBr] (FB) 50 Los Patos Way. 969-6705. (Cafe Stella is located at 3302 McCaw Ave, on upper State Street in Santa Barbara. www.stellamares.com)
SANTA BARBARA
Boathouse. The Boathouse at Hendry’s Beach is the newest venture of the owners of the Santa Barbara Shellfish Company, which began on Stearn’s Wharf in 1980, and the Santa Barbara Fishouse. Enjoy stunning views and great seafood from a family run business that knows their fish! [BLD] $ (FB). 2981 Cliff Drive 805898-2628, www.sbfishhouse.com/boathouse
Bouchon. Restaurateur Mitchell Sjerven hosts the city’s first Wine Country Cuisine restaurant with more than 50 Santa Barbara and Central Coast wines offered by the glass to compliment bouchon’s “ingredient driven” and seasonal fresh menu. Wine Spectator Award of Excellence wine list features exclusively Californian selections, paired with cuisine that is “creative without being over the top...”” (Wine Spectator, July 1999). Fresh Channel Island seafood, Santa Ynez and Ojai Valley game, and local farmer’s market produce predominate. Outdoor dining is available year-round on the heated, covered garden patio. Ask about private dining in the intimate Cork Room where up to 20 guests can be seated at the Grand Table. Open for dinner nightly from 5:30pm, reservations recommended.
[D] $$$, (B&W) 9 W. Victoria, 730-1160.
guide
B=breakfast
$=entrees under $15
$$=$15-$25
$$$=over $25
FB
B&W
Chase Bar & Grill. Serving classic New York Italian cuisine in the heart of downtown Santa Barbara since 1979. State Street seating available. Full bar. Happy hour 3-6pm Mon-Fri. 1012 State Street. 805-9654351 www.chasebarandgrill.com
Chuck’s of Hawaii. For over half a century Chuck’s has been voted Best Steak in Santa Barbara and is the recipient of the Award of Excellence from The Wine Spectator annually since 1989. Featuring a nightly selection of fresh fish, from old favorites like Alaskan halibut and grilled salmon to ahi tuna (grilled medium rare). Dinner is served weekdays from 5:30 to 11pm, and until 11:30pm weekends. Full cocktail bar, featuring Firestone-Walker Double Barrel Ale on draft. Reservations welcome. [D] $$, (FB) 3888 State, 687-4417.
Chuck’s Waterfront Grill. Chucks Waterfront Grill & The Endless Summer bar-cafe began serving friends and family in the Santa Barbara Harbor in 1999. Enjoy steaks, fresh seafood and cocktails on the radiant heated deck with fire pits; or head inside for intimate, cozy booths and the full bar. Upstairs, The Endless Summer bar-cafe offers casual dining, surrounded by vintage surfboards and memorabilia. Sip on local wines, craft beers and cocktails, play a game of pool or Cornhole under covered lanais while watching sports and surf movies. Live music, happy hour and free valet parking are also offered. [LD] $$, (FB) 113 Harbor Way, Santa Barbara, 564-1200
Crocodile Restaurant at Lemon Tree Inn. One of the best neighborhood destination eateries in SB featuring great steaks, salads and cocktails, full breakfast, lunch
and dinner menus. 2819 State St, Santa Barbara, (805) 687-6444.
BLD $$
Dargan’s Irish Pub. SB’s only authentic Irish bar and restaurant with a tradition that has spanned three generation. Featuring the best in Irish fare, full bar and numerous beers on tap. In the heart of old town, this cozy atmosphere features full lunch and dinner with room for private parties, billiards and darts. Open Daily from 11:30. 18 E. Ortega, 805568-0702. www.darganssb.com
El Encanto. 800 Alvarado Pl., Santa Barbara, 805-845-5800, elencanto.com, open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, Sun. for brunch. The hotel’s lounge, wine room, bar, and terrace all boast romantic settings California-coastal cuisine and stunning views.
Endless Summer Bar-Cafe. Chucks Waterfront Grill & The Endless Summer bar-cafe began serving friends and family in the Santa Barbara Harbor in 1999. Enjoy steaks, fresh seafood and cocktails on the radiant heated deck with fire pits; or head inside for intimate, cozy booths and the full
bar. Upstairs, The Endless Summer bar-cafe offers casual dining, surrounded by vintage surfboards and memorabilia. Sip on local wines, craft beers and cocktails, play a game of pool or Cornhole under covered lanais while watching sports and surf movies. Live music, happy hour and free valet parking are also offered. [LD].
$, (FB) 113 Harbor Way, Second Floor, 564-1200.
Enterprise Fish Co. 225 State St., Santa Barbara, 805-962-3313, enterprisefishco.com; open daily for lunch and dinner. This lively, family-friendly restaurant—a local and tourist favorite since 1977—is known for its fresh seafood and unbeatable happy hour deals.
The Harbor Restaurant. The Harbor is one of Santa Barbara’s finest restaurants, where fresh fish and steaks are specially prepared and served in an elegant maritime interior with stunning views of the harbor. [BrLD]. $$, (FB) 210 Stearns Wharf, 963-3311.
Harry’s. Santa Barbara’s traditional locals restaurant. Steak, seafood, sandwiches and salads served in a family atmosphere. Excellent wine
www.luckys-steakhouse.com
list and full bar. Banquet facilites available. Open daily for lunch and dinner. [LD] $, (FB) 3313-B State Street, 687-2800.
Holdren’s Steaks & Seafood. Holdren’s Steaks & Seafood is elegant and timeless, featuring U.S.D.A. prime Midwestern corn fed beef, charbroiled over their mesquite grill. Try the “Cowboy Cut”–Holdren’s signature steak—a 20 oz. Prime bone-in rib chop served over spicy onion rings. Their fresh seafood selections include Bacon Wrapped BBQ Tiger Prawns, seared Hawaiian Ahi, and a shrimp Scampi like no other. Holdren’s offers an extensive wine and martini list and outdoor seating. Open daily for lunch from 11:30 a.m., and for dinner from 5:00 p.m., Saturday and Sunday for dinner from 4:00 p.m. Now offering Sunday Brunch 9am-2pm. [BrLD] $$ (FB). 512 State Street, 805-9653363. In Goleta 6920 Marketplace Dr. 805-685-8900
Jane Restaurant. Located 2 doors down from the Arlington Theatre, Jane offers American Bistro food in a beautiful old Spanish building with 2 story fireplace. Fresh Fish, Burgers, Great Salads and entrees including Lamb Chops, Steaks, Veal Scllopini & Chicken Picatta. Fresh hamburger buns and desserts are all homemade on the premises daily. Closed Sunday 1311 State Street 805-962-1311 and 6920 Marketplace Dr, Goleta 805770-5388.
Joe’s Cafe. Joe’s is classic Santa Barbara at its best. Offering the best New England-style clam chowder, beef dips, prime rib, steaks, chops and fresh seafood. For over 80 years the restaurant’s history is as rich as is its’ food and very stiff drinks. An experience not to be missed! Mon-Sun 7:30am-11pm. [BLD] $ (FB). 536 State St, (805) 966-4638.
Longboard’s Grill. Upstairs from the Harbor Restaurant is an active, noisy bar & grill with a big TV, a surfer’s attitude and 360-degree views of the city & water. [LD] $$, (FB) 210 Stearns Wharf, 963-3311.
Louie’s. Celebrate the taste of a Santa Barbara tradition in the historic Upham Hotel. Delicious California bistro fare in a wonderful downtown setting. [LD] $$, (B&W) 1404 De La Vina at Sola. 963-7003.
Milk & Honey. Dine on flavorful modern tapas and fresh cocktails at this chic restaurant. 30 W. Anapamu St., Santa Barbara, 805-275-4232, milknhoneytapas.com; open Mon.-Sat. for dinner, Sun. for brunch. The Nugget. Down-home Americana fare with the appropriate dose of Western kitsch and memorabilia is the draw at these family-friendly joints. Open daily for lunch and dinner. For location nearest you go to www. nuggetbarandgrill.com.
Olio e Limone Ristorante, Olio Crudo Bar, & Olio Pizzeria® (“Oil and Lemon” in Italian).Husband-wife team Alberto and Elaine Morello preside over this pan-Italian charmer, where you’ll experience “excellent cooking and hospitable service” (Zagat Survey).
“Simply sophisticated,” says the Los Angeles Times. Wine Spectator award-winning wine list. Private dining for up to 40. Casual pizza bar-wine bar-full bar around the corner at Olio Pizzeria®, with Olio Crudo Bar, Olio’s raw bar and lounge, next door. www.oliocucina. com. 11 W. Victoria Street, 805-899-2699
Opal. A local’s favorite, Opal fuses creative influences from around the world with American Regional touches: from Chile-crusted Filet Mignon, to Fresh Pan-Seared Fish & Seafood, Homemade Pastas, Gourmet Pizzas from their wood burning pizza oven, fresh baked Breads, deliciously imaginative Salads, & Homemade Desserts. Sophisticated yet comfortable, Opal radiates a warm, friendly atmosphere. Full bar, award winning wine list, private room for parties up
to 60. 1325 State St., 966-9676. [LD] $$ (FB) Open Daily for Lunch and Dinner.
The Outpost. 5650 Calle Real, Goleta, 805-964-1288, outpostsb.com; open daily for dinner.
The Palace Grill. The Palace is a contemporary American grill, with a lively, high-energy atmosphere, and fun, spontaneous events. Featuring fine grilled steaks and fresh seafood, delicious pastas, and select American Regional specialties, like Blackened Crawfish-stuffed Filet Mignon, and Louisiana Bread Pudding Soufflé. Cajun Martinis, unique beers, and a well selected wine list. Their unique “team Service” voted the Best in Town the last 16 years in a row. Rave reviews in Gourmet Magazine, Gault-Millau Travel Guide, Zagat, and Sunset Magazine. “Best on the West Coast” according to Los Angeles Magazine. Open 7 days: lunch 11:30am to 3pm; evenings from 5:30. [LD] $$, B&W. 8 E Cota 963-5000.
Paradise Cafe. Santa Barbara’s favorite dining patio. Fresh fish, steaks, chops, chicken and their famous oak-grilled burger. Start with a drink at the street level bar, and work your way up. Open seven days a week. [BLD] $ FB. 702 Anacapa Street, 962-4416.
Renaud’s Patisserie & Bistro. Specializing in a wide selection of authentic French pastries. [BL] $ (B&W), 3315 State St Santa Barbara, 805-569-2400, and in Arlington Plaza. www.renaudsbakery.com.
Roy. Voted best late night dining spot in town. Bistro-style American cuisine featuring steaks, seafood, chicken, salads, full bar and a great wine list. Dinner from 6pm till midnight daily. [D] $$, (FB) 7 W. Carrillo, 966-5636.
Sambo’s. The original on the beach! Serving up the classic dining experience. [BLD] $, (B&W) 216 W. Cabrillo Blvd. 965-3269
Santa Barbara Fishouse. Great locally caught fresh fish prepared in a casual fun atmosphere. Terrific happy hour. Right across from East Beach. [LD], $$, FB. 101 E.Cabrillo Blvd. 966-2112.
SB Shellfish Co. The freshest seafood, lobster, crab and shellfish found anywhere. Enjoy a local wine or beer with the view of the Pacific at the end of Stearns Warf. 805-966-6676 www.shellfishco.com $$ (LD).
Scarlett Begonia. “Scarlett Begonia will always strive to have interesting, thoughtful food. Menus change weekly with an innovative fresh look at breakfast and lunch and weekend brunch. Open 7 days a week from 9am-2pm. It is their goal to provide Santa Barbara with a restaurant that showcases progressive modern food, using sustainable, organic, high-quality ingredients coupled with innovative cooking to be one of the most foodcentric restaurants around.” 11 W. Victoria St. #10 $$, 805-770-2143.
Shoreline Beach Cafe. Kids can play in the sand under the sun while parents take a mini-vacation with the fresh cocktails and beach-worthy fare. 801 Shoreline Dr., Santa Barbara, 805-568-0064, shorelinebeachcafe.com; open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
The Tee-Off One of the town’s premier steak houses featuring succulent prime rib, fresh seafood, generous cocktails and, of course, quality steaks. [LD] $$, (FB) 3627 State, 687-1616.
Via Maestra 42. Traditional Italian flavors serving panini, insalate, antipasti, formaggi, salumi, dolci, caffè and gelatos. [BLD] $$, 3343 State Street, 569-6522. Wine Cask. Located in the historic El Paseo in heart of downtown makes for a beautiful fine dining experience. Wine tasting with wide array of local wines, full bar and private dining available. www.winecask.com
Voted BEST PASTRAMI SANDWICH in SB!
Our chowder is a two-time champion at the SB Chowder Fest!
Delivery available. Call us for your office lunches. 126 E. Canon Perdido St. 965-1015
420 S. Fairview Ave, Goleta, 964-4585 Open Mon–Fri, 11 to 3 • threepickles.com
VENUES & PRIVATE DINING
CHUCK’S WATERFRONT GRILL & THE ENDLESS SUMMER BAR~CAFE
Party in style with two covered patios (Lanais) upstairs at The Endless Summer bar- cafe, each with a capacity up to 60 guests. The entire Endless Summer can be rented for a capacity up to 185. Chucks Waterfront Grill is available for groups up to 70 outside on the deck, or inside up to 25 in the Cove. The entire Chucks Waterfront Grill can accommodate 150 guests. Reservations must be made in advance by contacting event coordinator, Kaity Swanson. events@chuckswaterfrontgrill.com, or by phone at 805-564-1200.
CORK ROOM AT BOUCHON
The Cork room is a private dining room for groups of up to 20 guests. Corporate and private parties are welcome. You will find an excellent array of wine country cuisine paired with local Santa Barbara wines for truly wonderful and unique dining experience. 9 West Victoria, 805-703-1160, bouchonsantabarbara.com
CUCINA ROOM AT OLIO E LIMONE
The Cucina Room is the ideal venue for your group of up to 40 people. Perfect for business dinners and life events when you desire the exclusivity and privacy of your very own Olio e Limone dining experience. Enter and you will find an attentive service staff, beautifully set table and complimentary printed menus. We have created five dinner menus named after some of our favorite Italian wine regions to help in the decision-making process. A luncheon menu is also available for lunchtime events. Private dining is also available at the Terrazza Room at Olio Pizzeria for up to 22 guests. 11 & 17 West Victoria Street, 805-899-2699, www.olioelimone.com
DARGAN’S IRISH PUB
Dargan’s provides an authentic Irish ambiance combined with friendly service and outstanding food. We offer both buffet style or sit-down service for a variety of special occasions, including receptions, rehearsal dinners, business gatherings, birthdays, and graduations. The poolroom area can be sectioned off from the main bar and rented for private affairs and provides a relaxed atmosphere accommodating up to 170 people (100 seated). It includes a private cozy bar, four large pool tables and a jukebox. The room also offers an excellent speaker system and five HD TVs perfect for wedding videos or company sales presentations. To discuss space availability, rates, and food options, call (805) 568-0702 or email info@darganssb.com
EVENTS BY STELLA MARE’S
Events by Stella Mare’s, a full service private restaurant, is centrally located in uptown Santa Barbara near historic State Street, with beautiful views of the Santa Ynez Mountains. The décor is French Provencial meets Santa Barbara style, typifying the term “casual elegance”. Events by Stella
Mare’s is the perfect setting for rehearsal dinners, wedding ceremonies and receptions, anniversaries, birthdays, as well as corporate seminars, holiday celebrations, luncheon and dinner events from 40-300 guests. With three versatile rooms, a full service bar, an outdoor terrace, and majestic views, Events by Stella Mare’s can be used for intimate social gatherings or meetings or large-scale events. 3302 McCaw Avenue, (805) 969-3415, www.stellamares.com
JANE
AT THE MARKETPLACE
Jane ate the Marketplace in Goleta offers a private dining room for an event accommodating 20-40 guests. Delicious craft cocktails and custom menus make this space a perfect special occasion gathering place for birthdays, rehearsal dinners, baby showers and corporate. 6940 Marketplace Drive, Goleta. 805-770-5388. www.janesb.com
JANE DOWNTOWN
Jane in downtown Santa Barbara offers intimate private dining for your special lunch, brunch or dinner. The private room comfortably seats up to 40 guests. Custom menus, friendly professional service and a warm atmosphere make special occasion dining at Jane Downtown a memorable experience. 1311 State Street. 805-962-1311. www. janesb.com
LOUIE’S AT THE UPHAM HOTEL
Louie’s features two elegant rooms, one for large groups of up to 50 people and the other for smaller parties of six to 15. Custom menus are available with the emphasis being on California cuisine using the freshest available produce and local wines. The setting is inside the historic Upham Hotel which offers state of the art audio visual equipment for all levels of social and corporate presentations. For more information call 805-963-7003 or visit www.louiessb.com.
OPAL RESTAURANT AND BAR
Opal Restaurant and Bar can accommodate inhouse parties from 10-120, and we have extensive experience in serving corporate functions, birthdays, wedding rehearsal dinners or wedding celebrations, weekly luncheons, and private parties of all sorts. Whether it is an on-site banquet or off-site catering, our highly effective system of service enables us to handle all events from the most casual birthday bash to the most exacting and formal affair, with a smooth and flawless style that anticipates every situation and creates a great experience for you and your guests. 1325 State St., Santa Barbara, (805) 966-9676, opalrestaurantandbar.com
CATERING
PURE JOY CATERING, INC.
Pure Joy offers full service catering for the Santa Barbara Tri-County Areas. Flawless event planning, friendly service and unbelievably delicious handmade fare—Pure Joy will bring your vision to life.
111 East Haley Street, Santa Barbara, (805) 9635766, purejoycatering.com
“This bistro shines with gourmet food at everyday prices and remains an absolute must in SB for creative fare, illuminating wines; charming decor, a satisfyingly buzzy ambiance and exceptional service which keeps it a favorite with the locals.” ----Zagat Survey 1325 State Street Next
With the number of oenological oddities running around these days due to palatally impaired millennial trendsetters, like orange wines, natural wines, pet-nats, and vino on tap, our taste buds can at times be assaulted by revisionist, reengineered, and off-the-cuff “advancements” in vinous inventiveness.
Let’s briefly review these:
Orange wine is not produced from citrus, though in many cases, based on numerous samplings, I’d prefer a fermented beverage made by Sunkist, utilizing clemen-
tines and kumquats over many of these oddballs, which implement lengthy skin contact with the grape juice to amplify texture, structure, and the volume of your screams as you engage these rather shrill and oxidized experiments in vinification. They’re outstanding with fruits, nuts, and cheese all long past their expiration dates.
Natural wines are as yet quite illdefined, as their production might simply require some scraggly dude who appears to have emerged from Haight-Ashbury’s glory days armed with a bag of Thompson Seedless from the farmers’ market,
along with a vat and some vaguely outlined profundities gained from a trip, (not one through French appellations, mind you, but from a lysergic romp through his own compromised psyche).
Pet-nats (petillant naturel) are either A) sparkling wines produced by one fermentation in the bottle based on an ancient methodology, or B) so very, very 2014, like “conscious uncoupling” and ice bucket challenges. Pour some Fleishmann’s yeast in a bottle of Cook’s Champagne with a packet of Nutrasweet to gain a similar effect.
Wine on tap continues to be the most accepted of these new era trends, though to quote Howard Beale in the movie “Network,” I believe that they qualify as a “shrill, shrieking fraud,” resembling the bottled version about as much as a decaying doppelganger, à la Dorian Gray and his regrettable portrait. It may be time for a whole new definition of the term “kegger.”
Stay thirsty, my friends…
Bob Wesley is the GM and wine buyer for Savoy Wines. 18 West Anapamu. 805-962-5353