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Revisiting the Past at Grove Farm Museum By Léo Azambuja
There was a time when sugar was the absolute king in Hawai‘i. But the sugar plantations brought much more than a thriving economy; they pretty much shaped modern-day Hawai‘i in a multitude of ways, including culture, food, music, language, ethnic diversity and more. The Grove Farm museum in Līhu‘e provides a two-hour tour that lets us take a pretty good peek into what plantation life used to be – and also how it came to be. “Grove Farm is truly an island treasure,” said Maile Kennedy, tour coordinator at the Grove Farm museum. “The Wilcox family’s history is well-told and the buildings left as if they have just left for the day. Being able to walk through the grounds and buildings as they were left, gives our visitors a sense of time just standing still.” In 1854, German immigrant Herman A. Widemann cut a grove of kukui trees to plant sugar cane in Līhu‘e, and named his new sugar-planting business Grove Farm. Ten years later, he leased his farm to a young entrepreneur named George Norton Wilcox, one of the eight children of missionary teachers Abner and Lucy Wilcox. Later, the brilliant-minded George would buy the plantation and transform it into one of the most successful and long-running sugar endeavors in Hawai‘i. Grove Farm Company produced sugar until the mid-1990s, and was sold to AOL co-founder Stephen Case in 2000. Today, Grove Farm Company and Grove Farm museum are two different entities that are not associated with each other. George studied at the prestigious Punahou School on O‘ahu and then at the Sheffield Scientific School (now part of Yale University) in Connecticut as a civil engineer. He ran Grove Farm from his house in Līhu‘e, where the Grove Farm museum stands today. Besides running the plantation, he invested in other businesses and served as a politician in the government. A man who could do almost anything, George amassed a large wealth but never lost sight of his humble beginnings. During his lifetime, he donated the equivalent of about $36 million in today’s currency, and lived in a modest one-bedroom home next to the much larger Grove Farm main office. He was known for being a kind, honest boss. He died a bachelor in 1933 at 93 years old, leaving behind one of the largest private estates of the former Territory of Hawai‘i. After his death, Grove Farm Company’s main office moved to Puhi. Wilcox’s nieces, Mabel Wilcox and Elsie Wilcox lived the rest of their lives in the Grove Farm main house in Līhu‘e. They never married. Elsie died in 1954. Mabel was concerned that if Grove Farm Company shut down, they would sell the house and all its history would be lost. So in 1971, Mabel, already in her late 80s, bought the Grove Farm house in Līhu‘e from Grove Farm Company. The property, known as the Grove Farm Homestead, is in the National Register of Historic Places since 1974. In 1975, Mabel turned the then-Waioli Mission, once a private foundation, into the nonprofit Waioli Corporation, which oversees the museum.
Mabel died in 1978, and the first tour of the museum and property happened in October 1980. “Miss Mabel Wilcox envisioned the home she was born and raised in to be converted to a living museum, which came to fruition two years after she passed away,” Kennedy said. The tours, she added, show our visitors and community an example of a developing sugar plantation, and share the Wilcox family history, as well as their philanthropy for our island community. The main house still looks pretty much the way it did when Mabel spent her last days there. The collection of Hawaiian relics, including a first edition A picture of George Norton Wilcox in his young days. of Capt. James Cook’s journal is still intact. The kitchen still functions on a daily basis. The furniture is impeccably clean. Artworks that have been professionally restored adorn the walls. The exquisite ‘ohi‘a wood floors are spotless. Mabel’s 1971 Buick Skylark is still parked at the porte cochere. The 1861 piano still plays beautifully. At every direction you look, you become immersed in the past. “Every guest is in awe of the main house and how well preserved it is. Guests say it truly is a step back in time,” Kennedy said. The land surrounding the Grove Farm museum extends for about 80 acres in Līhu‘e, and it includes many other historic structures, railroad tracks and four original locomotives – all of which are restored but still in need of repairs, including Paulo, that up until recently would still fire monthly to take people on short tours. The locomotives – in the National Register of Historic Places’ list since 1979 – aren’t in display but there are plans for a Locomotive Learning Park in the future, according to Kennedy. She said many locals have never been to the museum, and are surprised to learn so much about the Wilcox family contributions. But recently, there was an increase of local residents in the property. “Our tours have always been during the week, which may make it harder for some locals to come due to their work schedules. The pandemic has created an opportunity for us to share with more locals and we are offering a kama‘aina rate because of this. ‘Ohana Days are usually held twice a year for Hawai‘i residents to come for free as well,” Kennedy said. Mabel and Elsie also left a large contribution to our island community, including in health care, education and history preservation. Mabel graduated as a nurse from the John Hopkins Hospital School of Nursing in 1911, and served with the American Red Cross in Europe during World War I. She helped her uncle Albert Wilcox and his wife Emma to open Samuel Mahelona Hospital in Kapa‘a. Elsie served as the first woman for the Territorial Senate of Hawai‘i from 1932 to 1940, chairing the Education Committee. The Elsie H. Wilcox Elementary School in Lihu‘e honors her legacy. She was also a founding member of the Kaua‘i Historical Society, where she served for 40 years as a secretary and treasurer. continued on page 5
Some utensils in George Norton Wicox’s office.
Kitchen manager Paula Rosa is seen here at the kitchen in the main house, which still works on a daily basis.
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Joan Arakaki joan@forkauaionline.com sales@forkauaionline.com 808-651-5577 On the cover: Grove Farm Museum Kitchen Manager Paula Rosa, left, and Tour Coordinator Maile Kennedy are seen here at the main house. Photo by Léo Azambuja
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The Wilcox siblings. The several buildings in the Grove Farm property help to tell the story of one of the most successful sugar plantations in Hawai‘i, but more important is the story of the people who lived there, and how the sugar plantations became key in shaping the island’s local culture into what it is today. “We want our visitors to know we are a nonprofit organization with the kuleana (responsibility) of preserving historic sites like Grove Farm museum and Waioli Mission House in Hanalei,” Kennedy said. “By sharing authentic educational experiences through the people, collections, and properties we hope to bring to life Kaua‘i’s rich history and culture.” A donation of $20 per person and $10 for children ages 5-12 is requested for the two-hour walking tour. Tours are offered on Monday, Wednesday and Thursday at 10 a.m. or 1p.m. Kennedy said people should be take the tour to appreciate Kaua‘i’s history and see the beauty of Old Hawai‘i. “It is a slow-paced tour that is geared toward many interests, of people both young and old. The farm is the highlight for the keiki and the main house and grounds for the grown ups,” she said. To learn more, you will just have to take the tour. And if you like it that much, you could apply to become a volunteer guide. Visit www.grovefarm.org or call (808) 245-3202 for more information or to book a tour.
Some artifacts at the Grove Farm Museum.
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A custom made couch at the Grove Farm Museum.
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False Killer Whales of Hawai‘i By Dr. Ryan Jenkinson It’s that time of year when the charismatic and well-known humpback whales begin to return to local waters for their winter residence. While they deserve the admiration and joy they bring to the people of Hawai‘i and the visitors that flock here to get a look at them, it’s worth taking time to give some attention to the lesser known whales and dolphins found around the islands. There are seven species of mysticetes (baleen whales like humpbacks) and 18 species of odontocetes (toothed whales) that are known to use the Hawaiian archipelago as either permanent residents, seasonal visitors, or occasional passersby.
Toothed Whales The toothed whales include the dolphins we commonly see in nearshore waters around the islands (spinners, spotted and bottlenose), some well-known species that are periodic visitors (killer whales and sperm whales), some cool and interesting species (three species of beaked whales, rough-toothed dolphins), and a group of smaller, dark-bodied whales commonly referred to as “blackfish.” These animals can be found in Hawaiian waters year-round.
Blackfish For those of us who spend time offshore fishing, working or just sailing the islands, the first glimpse of a “blackfish” can be quite intimidating as far as trying to identify exactly what we are seeing. There are four different species. The two smaller species are melon headed whales and pygmy killer whales. The flippers and head of the pygmy killer whale are slightly more rounded, and they have more distinct coloration on their bodies. They are shy little nuggets though, that rarely approach boats. The two larger blackfish species include short-finned pilot whales and false killer whales. The short-finned pilot whales are the most common and can be identified by the large dorsal fin well forward on the body and their large, rounded heads. False killer whales probably get the most attention of the blackfish, and for good reason. They are really interesting, form tight familial groups that are unique to Hawaiian waters, feed in spectacular fashion on large pelagic fish, and are not too shy about approaching vessels. First thing to know about them – they are not killer whales! The name was derived from observations of fossils and their skulls, which are similar to killer whales, before any live animals were ever described. Their scientific name is Pseudorca crassidens (“false orca with thick teeth”). They grow to between 15-20 feet long as adults and can weigh up to 3000 pounds.
Akeakamai
A false killer whale (Pseudorca crassidens) leaping. Photo by Robin Baird On the surface, the only trait we humans share with false killer whales is that we are both mammals. But when you look deeper into their life history, biology and social dynamics, it is easy to see why so many find these animals relatable and interesting. They are long-living (up to 60 years) but do not begin to reproduce until their teens. They do not have many calves (one every seix-to-seven years) and females go through menopause but still remain vital parts of the social structure after they stop giving birth. They live in tight familial and social groups and form long-lasting bonds. They hunt for cephalopods and pelagic fish (ahi, ono, mahi mahi, ulua) cooperatively and often share the catch with each other. In fact, they have been known to offer to share with humans, bringing captured fish up to boats and swimmers. On a side note: while that is an awesome behavior, we strongly suggest not jumping in the water if you run into false killer whales offshore. Just like humans, the behavior and attitude of individuals can vary quite a bit —some might be friendly and willing to share in their feast while others might be a tad more protective. It’s best not to find out which end of the spectrum a 20-foot, 3000-pound whale falls on through trial and error,
Hawai‘i Populations False killer whales are found in warm waters around the globe, but the Hawaiian false killers live in three very distinct sub-populations, segregated by location, habitat type and social differences between the populations. The unique characteristics of each population have been demonstrated through photoidentification work (the distinct shape and scarring on the dorsal fin of individuals can be matched over
A false killer whale and its calf. Photo by Robin Baird Page 6
time) and through genetic studies. Resource managers call these groups distinct population segments (DPS), and conservation actions vary based on our understanding of each. The waters around Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau are the one area that all three of DPS groups commonly cross paths. Even when they are found in the same area, they do not interact or interbreed. The offshore or pelagic DPS is usually found, well, way offshore. The best estimates indicate there are around 2,000 offshore false killer whales around Hawai`i, but their population trajectory remains unknown. These animals are most likely to interact with large-scale commercial long-line fishing operations. The Northwestern Hawaiian Islands DPS is the least well-known of the sub-populations; and population estimates and trajectories are vague. The third DPS is known as the insular Hawaiian false killer whale stock. They are found in nearshore waters of all the main Hawaiian Islands and are the ones most of us are likely to encounter. Within this “insular” stock, five distinct social clusters have been identified with mating and social interactions usually confined within each cluster. This a problem, because the total number of insular false killer whales is estimated at less than 200 individuals. The genetic pool within each social cluster is not very large, and from a mating and long-term population management perspective, that is a problem. The historical size of the insular population is unknown, but aerial surveys in the 1980s observed aggregations of up to 400 animals in a single area. Current estimates are that the population is decreasing about nine percent per year. Because of this, the insular DPS was listed as endangered under the federal Endangered Species Act in 2012. They are also protected under the Marine Mammal Protection Act and Hawai‘i Revised Statues Chapter 195D.
Having a Tough Time So why are these insular false killer whales, these cool and interesting and charismatic animals, having such a tough go of it? And what can we do to help? Well, to the first question, the answer is complicated and there is no single “smoking gun” to explain why there are so few remaining. Without long-term historical data to compare to, it remains hard to know exactly how many insular false killers once roamed our waters. There is plenty of evidence to suggest it was at the very least three-to-four times more than we see today. One likely cause is from inbreeding depression – when a population becomes so small that genetic variation is too low to sustain long-term growth (known as the Allee effect). Because they are large animals that feed high on the food web, they tend to accumulate toxins and contaminants in their bodies. This can lead to reproductive issues and diseases. It is possible that competition with local fisheries (we tend to target the same things they eat) has decreased food availability for them. And like most animals, they will take advantage of an easy meal, so interactions with fisheries can harm or even kill them. Many of the insular false killer whales show signs of interactions with scarring on their dorsal areas and heads from lines and hooks, and it is common to observe trailing lines from their mouths. State and federal agencies, and private conservation and research groups work to better understand and protect Hawai‘i’s false killer whales. This is done through collecting tissue samples for genetic studies, instrumenting individuals to track their movements throughout the islands, estimating population size and social structure through photo-identification work, and continuing education and outreach programs to make fishers and the public more aware of these animals. Much of the research and on-water conservation is carried out under the direction of Dr. Robin Baird at the Cascadia Research Collective. Visit
www.cascadiaresearch.org/hawaiian-cetacean-studies/false-killer-whales-hawaii for more information, photos and updates.
How to Help Learn to differentiate the blackfish species so we know if we are observing a false killer whale. Identification guides produced by CRC and the Protected Species Program at the state Department of Land and Natural Resources, Division of Aquatic Resources can be found at numerous fishing shops and harbors across the islands or can be requested through emailing kylaherr@hawaii.edu. Additional identification tricks, general life history information, management and research resources can be found at another CRC website (https://falsekillerwhales.org), NOAA Fisheries (https://www.fisheries.noaa.gov/ species/false-killer-whale#overview), and a soon to debut DAR Protected Species page. Also, let us know when you observe false killer whales. Any photos of the dorsal fin (preferably directly perpendicular to the fin) are incredibly helpful. But all sightings are useful, photos or not. These sightings can be reported to the hotline at 800-747-7329, with photos sent directly to hawaii@cascadiaresearch.org or the PSP at kylaherr@hawaii.edu. Finally, if you are out fishing and see a pod of false killer whales approaching, do your best to avoid interactions. Bring in your lines if possible and before you move on, take some time to enjoy these local, native Hawaiian animals. Hey, if you are nice, they might even bring a fish over to share. If you do happen to hook one, do your best to cut the line as close to the animal as possible (to reduce the amount of trailing line and drag). If you observe a hooked or injured whale, please call the hotline at 888-256-9840. Mahalo for respecting our local wildlife and lets all work together to make sure these rare and amazing cetaceans are around for the next generation and for many more to come. • Dr. Ryan Jenkinson is a marine ecologist and fisheries biologist. He is the head of the Protected Species Program at the state Department of Land and Natural Resources, Division of Aquatic Resources. He can be reached at ryan.s.jenkinson@hawaii.gov
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Kaua‘i Creating Miracle Holidays By Virginia Beck Kaua‘i has always been the space of miracles. One can only imagine the joy of the first voyagers who sailed across the entire Pacific Ocean from Oceania, to find such a magical land fall. Even today, anyone who arrives can hardly believe their eyes. The fragrant breezes, cooling the near tropical heat. The moist air flowing down from the green ridges behind the coastal lands. The abundance of flowers, leaves and fruits, and then the beauty of the people. We are such a mix of ethnicities here, the best of every culture, local residents and pure Hawaiians. As more people flow into our island, more miracles occur. Such a hard couple of years for those who live here; livelihoods, businesses, families torn apart. Many had to leave to survive. Many had to suffer to stay. We all tried to help each other. The outstanding miracle of Kaua‘i is that we care. We are the safety net for our communities. Individually, we can do a little. Together, we can create miracles. So many have given their all. And the Hawai‘i Community Foundation has really stepped up to join with key local organizations to make a difference. Funds from the Chan-Zuckerberg Foundation and Mackenzie Scott Jewett (formerly Bezos) have helped to bolster the Hawai‘i resilience funds. Food insecurity has soared due to fewer jobs and closed businesses, but generosity is making a difference. Especially just now. Another miracle is Mark Zuckerberg’s donation to the Trust for Public Lands to purchase and protect the 600-year-old Alakoko Fishpond, also known as the Menehune Fishpond. For years, Mālama Hulē’ia, a local nonprofit, has been working hard to restore the native wetlands, removing the invasive red mangroves, which choked the Hulē’ia Stream and the Alakoko Fishpond, endangering native species of fish, birds and limu.
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So many miracles. Slowing the spread of the virus. Vaccinations, and then boosters. Scientific miracles to test for immunity. Science to develop home tests, then vaccinations for Smart Travel so we could reopen. Miracles of federal funds to assist families in making ends meet. Miracles of bolstering the spirits of the unemployed. Miracles of folks improvising and creating services and foods, and vegetable farms to feed us all. Miracles of senior shopping hours to protect the vulnerable. Miracles of support and funding for our overworked, understaffed health care workers, from physicians, other health care providers, and all the culinary, facilities, custodial and supply support. Miracles of charity, generosity and caring for each other. All the nonprofits were challenged to find ways to fund their programs and keep their staff employed. Miracles of collaboration. Miracles of dropping right and wrong and politics, to focus on the important, urgent work of making sure we take care of each other. If we each take care of those around us, and each of them takes care of the ‘ohana around them, everyone gets taken care of. So as the Ambassadress and Benevolent Dictator, of our Aloha Island, I challenge you all to create a miracle for someone every day. It doesn’t have to be big. Even small miracles count. Go out and tip BIG, shop local, and be kind. You never know who is really hurting inside. Your smile could be the miracle of their day! Aloha is always the perfect attitude for a Miraculous Day!
• Virginia Beck, NP and Certified Trager® Practitioner, offers Wellness Consultation, Trager Psychophysical Integration and teaches Malama Birth Training classes. She can be reached at 635-5618.
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Kamalani Inclusive Playground By Tommy Noyes In November 2021, the County of Kaua‘i Department of Parks and Recreation announced construction of the Kamalani Inclusive Playground in Lydgate Beach Park is now in progress with completion projected for Spring 2022. “Specifically designed for keiki with developmental disabilities, this playground project is among my administration’s top priorities,” Mayor Derek Kawakami said. “Mahalo to the Department of Parks and Recreation, Friends of Kamalani, Leadership Kaua‘i Class of 2022, and everyone involved to make this playground a reality for our children.” Scott McCubbins enthusiastically endorses the project. “As a member of the Friends of Kamalani & Lydgate Park (FK-LP) committee, I was thrilled to see this expansion of the playground,” McCubbins said. “It will provide easy access to keiki with disabilities so that they can fully enjoy the park experience in a unique and safe way. Mahalo to all who were involved in the development, engineering, and fiscal responsibility for this project.” McCubbins serves as one of the Surfrider Foundation Kaua‘i Chapter’s leaders, and coordinates volunteer coastal cleanups. He deserves recognition for Surfriders’ Net Patrols that during 2020 cleared more than 129,000 pounds of marine debris from Kaua‘i’s shoreline. The new playground design addresses physical, social, emotional, sensory, communication and cognitive activities children with developmental disabilities encounter. Additionally, the playground will include swinging, spinning, sliding, climbing and balancing equipment. Volunteers Doug Shannon and Tom Worthen are among the most consistent participants at Lydgate’s every-Saturday beach cleanups. “If it’s ‘specifically designed for keiki with developmental disabilities,’ then I’m all for it. Anything we can do to enhance the lives of disabled kids is great,” Shannon said Worthen allocates community service to both the FK-LP and Kaua‘i’s Sea Scout program, and has personal reasons for appreciating this new public amenity. “My daughter uses a wheelchair. To design a playground that goes beyond breaking physical barriers to also addressing cognitive and emotional development is state of the art. Mahalo to everyone who is supporting this project.” Valerie Woods, a dedicated volunteer with FK-LP, said she is very excited to see this project started. “As a member of the Friends of Kamalani and Lydgate Park, I know this playground will give new energy to the Park and generate more enthusiasm from the community to gather here and ‘care’ for this great Park,” Woods said. Shana Marie Cruz of Leadership Kaua‘i’s class of 2022 said this project is very intimate to her and her family, being they have two special-needs children. “It is inspirational and breathtaking, that from a vision, a suggestion, and an idea from meeting with the mayor two years ago and now construction will be taking place,” Cruz said. “Leadership Kaua‘i’s class of 2022 is excited to support the development of a project rooted in the community, initiated by the parents of children in search of inclusion and representation of all abilities, and enacted by a government willing to listen.” Inspired Play LLC is building the $400,000 project, with monies allocated from the General Fund, Capital Improvements Projects Fund, and the Līhu‘e District Special Trust Fund for Parks & Playgrounds Fund. • Tommy Noyes is Kaua‘i Path’s executive director, a League of American Bicyclists Certified Instructor and active with the Kaua‘i Medical Reserve Corps.
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This illustration shows the concept for the new expansion of Kamalani Playground tin Lydgate Park with inclusive components.
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The Milky Way By Larry Feinstein You know, it is so easy to lose your footing. I am certainly one who has lost it too many times, but I am still here, asking for more. I have felt pulled by two incredibly unrelated stories. As some of you may know, I have been doing a weekly podcast for over a year now. It went through the inevitable creative incarnations. I have completely and permanently settled on doing a weekly news round up with some colorful commentary. How’s that? I read a story about how the landing of the Vikings on what is now Newfoundland, Canada can be riveted to the actual year of their arrival. I will spare you the science, because we will get bogged down in the minutiae. However, because of the occurrence of a solar storm and how it marked trees, with their time-clock rings, it has been determined that they were there by 1021 AD – 471 years before Columbus landed in the Bahamas in 1492. It wasn’t a long walk for me to think about the idea that history keeps changing. Growing up, you kind of get this idea that history is all about facts that permanently anchor us in the present. Well, I’ll be damned, history keeps changing with each new scientific revelation. I think most of us like the feeling of being blanketed in the truth of our past. It seems at least once a month there’s a story about new discoveries regarding our origin, yours and mine. I guess I’d identify the part of this narrative just above, as me looking at my feet, while I talk to you. In the very big picture, it is interesting to know where we have come from, or at least I think so. However, it is a target that keeps moving, each time you choose to look at it. I had this flash of being on intellectual ice skates and having no idea what to do, because this damn journey keeps changing. Every time you go around the rink, much of it doesn’t look quite the same as when you saw it on your last revolution OK. It’s now time to go mental bi-polar and travel beyond your wildest imagination. The other article that got me, felt like a right hook, after first getting a straight left jab to my right temple. Fortunately for both of us, I can’t find the news story, probably a direct result of the fog induced by the blow to my head. It dealt with a planet being discovered outside the Milky Way. Before the dawn of Covid World, I started thinking about taking a road trip, which I almost did before COVID-19 collapsed us all. I was going to drive around 400 miles from Vancouver, BC to my destination in the Kootenay Mountains. Living on such a small island like Kaua‘i can give you the itch to stretch out on a highway, any highway. This was my idea of distance.
Mind and the Motorcycle
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On occasion, I have looked up what the measure of a light year is, and I immediately get a headache. I started reading how far the Milky Way was from us and how this planetary discover was even beyond its milky boundaries. I find things like the Big Bang Theory intriguing, but I just get this feeling when you think about “out there”, as far as you can possibly imagine, it even goes beyond that. It seems like examining history is about shrinking and shrinking, getting to the moments that initiated change. There is a kind of growing precision about it, because science has provided tremendous insight into what likely happened in our long history. So, the Vikings were walking Newfoundland, Canada around 1021AD, while indigenous people had been living there for at least 6,000 years before them. As of this moment, that’s the latest discovery of our odyssey, a journey written in pencil. Every time, we bother to take the time to look in the rear view mirror, the view keeps changing. It kind of begs the issue of why not just drive your car on the road map of your choosing and try real hard not to hit anything on the way to wherever life takes you. I think it is more comforting to feel secure in the moment, than it is to think about the infinite distances of this limitless space we inhabit. I do wonder how all of this happened, when it began, how it began, and how incomprehensible it will always be to all of us., at least for yours truly. If you don’t get too close, like Icarus, you can be OK. Sometimes, I do think about the infinite space we inhabit. Discovering a planet beyond the Milky Way is millions and millions of light years away from us, and there is endless space beyond that. I try and understand how big all of this is and if space ends somewhere out there. It’s like trying to pin infinity to the mat and having it tap out, whispering a secret in your ear that only you can hear, just before it disappears and you can’t remember the message. I do think about these things, wondering where my little life fits into it all. Heck, I don’t know how the sun comes up every morning, waltzing across the sky and disappearing on the other side of this tiny planet every day. I do keep trying to find a place for me in all this. • Visit www.buzzsprout.com/1292459 if you want to hear the news of the week, like you have never heard it before. Or go to www.youtube.com/ channel/UCiKB7SheuTWKABYWRolop4g to watch two guys, seemingly having nothing in common, put on a weekly show of what it’s like to be friends.
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