姚士锋
2013
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CONTENT
34
080
FC TOPIC
WEALTH AND HEALTH
NEVER MISS A DETAIL
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032
FC VIEW
034
FC TOPIC
042
FC PEOPLE
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CONTENT 046
046
LIFESTYLE
099
FORTUNE CHARACTER LIST
107
THE LUXURORS
120
CHIC!ELEGANCE
064
068
134
COLUMN
094
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CHINA'S LEADING LUXURY LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE Chairman of the Group CEO of the Group Publisher Editorial Board
Consultant Managing Editor Watch Editorial Director Wings Editorial Director Yacht Editorial Director The World of Fine Wine Editorial Director Education Editorial Director Art Director English Editors Editors
PR general manager Sales PR Communication
Coordinating Editor Design Director Designer Circulation
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PREFACE
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PREFACE
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FORTUNE CHARACTER
READING|
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READING
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Hermès Hermès Hermès
Hermès Hermès Le Flâneur
Promenade
Hermès
Horizons
Quadrille Hermès
François Doré
Horizons François Doré
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READING
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READING
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READING
1 2 34 5 67 201311.indd 28
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READING
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READING
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READING
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NE CHARACTER FO FCRTU VIEW
FC VIEW|
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FC VIEW
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WE HEA ALTH LTH AN D 201311.indd 34
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THE WISDOM BETWEEN
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FEATURE
WHAT'S WRONG WITH THE HEALTH? 201311.indd 36
TIPS
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TIPS
不幸的人各有各的不幸，但是 不幸患病的企业家大多有相似 FEATURE 的原因，翻开近年来企业家非 正常死亡名录，一长串的名字 足以警示后人。值得高兴的是， 有些人醒悟得早，例如黄鸣主 动寻解脱之道；潘石屹每天坚 持喝自制的蔬果汁；还有许多 企业家注重身体锻炼，他们去 爬山、扬帆……去亲近大自然， 去挖掘生活的更多可能。
TIPS
TIPS
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FEATURE
GOOD HEALTH IS FROM PRACTICE 201311.indd 38
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FEATURE
TIPS
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FEATURE
HOW TO LAY DOWN THE BURDEN 201311.indd 40
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FEATURE
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NATURE IS HEALTH NICHE IS PRIORITY
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TOP CONVERSATION
TOP
CONVERSATION
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TOP CONVERSATION
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TOP CONVERSATION
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LIFESTYLE
GETTING SERIOUS WITH COMPLICATIONS
W
hen you hear someone s a y “ c o m p l i c a t i o n s ,” i t ’ s rarelya good thing. But in watch parlance, a complication isan interesting aspect of a timepiece that makes it more useful, cooler and definitely more valuable.
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By definition,a complication is anything more than the time (hours, minutes and seconds), so, for example, at its simplest, a date display or a small second subdial is considered a complication. Any complication makes a watch more
difficult to manufacture, because they all have to draw stored power from the movement and work flawlessly while the watch continues to do its main job, tell the time precisely.
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What are the top complications out there today? Chronograph This is a watch that allows for the independent timing of an e ve n t . U s u a l l y, a c h ro n o g r a p h h a s two pushers on the side of the case to activate, stop and return the chronograph hands. Most chronographs have subdials that measure the minutes and hours. Perpetual Calendar The ultimate calendar because it knows how long each year is, no m a t t e r i f i t i s a l e a p y e a r. K e e p a p e r p e t u a l c a l e n d a r r u n n i n g a n d yo u w o n’ t h a v e t o r e s e t i t u n t i l t h e y e a r 2100 or later. Jumping Hour Instead of regular hands, a single digit shows the hour and it jumps direc tly to t h e n e x t h o u r, f ro m t h re e to fo u r, for example. Moon Phase These watches have a rotating disk that shows the phase of the moon (full, half, crescent, etc.).
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LIFESTYLE
Dual Time/GMT This timepiece displays two times simultaneously, either through a GMT hand that points to the second time zone or a separate subdial for the second time zone. Tourbillon The tourbillon is a device that is designed to counteract the effect of gravity on the m o v e m e n t ’s b a l a n c e , thereby increasing the movement ’s accurac y. A tourbillon features a small cage that holds the balance and the escapement, and the cage turns independently of the watch, usually at a constant rate of once per minute. The tourbillon, which means “whirlwind” in French, is one of the watchmaking art’s most involved and elegant complications. Minute Repeater This is a watch that chimes out the time (hours and minutes) when a lever is activated. The Minute Repeater is considered one of the most complicated watches to manufacture.
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LIFESTYLE
Complications make watches more interesting. Sure, we all love the elegant simplicity of a three hand w a t c h , b u t t h e r e ’s n o t h i n g l i k e t h e melodious chime of a Minute Repeater, the spinning magic of the tourbillon or the truly useful display of a GMT. S o, nex t time you are in the watch store, d o n’ t s h y a w a y f r o m t h e t i m e p i e c e s that seem “complicated.”
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LIFESTYLE
CLOSER TO THE BRAND
Saving H. Moser & Cie H. Moser has a long history of making fine, high-end timepieces with classic styling. Recently, the company fell on hard times and was in danger of closing its doors. Th e n , i n s te p p e d t h e M E L B G ro u p, r u n by watc h i n d u s t r y ve te ra n G eorges-Henr i M eylan, to purchase a major it y of the shares of H. Moser. The team from MELB came in and examined ever ything, from purchasing to production and shipping, and began to overhaul the operations, working to make the brand profitable. One big advantage for H. M oser is its abilit y to make spr ings and complete escapements, something that only a handful of companies have. MELB's plan is to maximize this, supplying companies throughout the watch industry, including making special hairsprings to the demands of customers. The biggest change that has to be made is in perception, according t o n e w H . M o s e r C E O E d u o a rd M e y l a n . Fo r t h e l a s t fe w ye a r s, n o one ever questioned the qualit y of H. M oser timepieces, but they were seen as overly traditional and classical watches. Meylan is out to change this perception with t weaks to the existing collec tions; the Mayu, Monard and Perpetual 1, and an overhaul of the communication with the industry and end consumers. The future of H. Moser, with MELB involved as financial, operational and market support, is very bright, indeed.
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LIFESTYLE
Five Minutes with Christophe Claret The hills surrounding Le Locle, Sw i t ze r l a n d, i n t h e h e a r t o f t h e J u ra M ountains, have been home to some of the most famous watchmakers the world has ever seen. One of the most p ro l i f i c a n d s u cce s s f u l h a s to b e t h e Christophe Claret workshops. It is h e re, i n t h i s s t a t e o f t h e a r t f a c i l i t y, t h a t s o m e o f w a t c h m a k i n g ’s m o s t beautiful and complicated movements have been created – all from the mind of Christophe Claret. I c a u g ht u p w i t h M r. C l a re t i n his office, which is in a beautiful, centuries-old villa overlooking Le Locle. The house is connec ted to the s t a t e - o f - t h e - a r t m a n u f a c t u r e, w h e re the magic happens. Are you impressed by Chinese customers? The Chinese clientele is often younger than clients from other countries, and they are really interested in ever y novel aspec t in timepieces. I n a ver y short amount of time, they have learned and understand the value of a highly complicated watch.
I promised myself that the day I launched my own brand, I would make sure that I have complete control over the whole production process. What do you like about watches? For me, a watch should not only give time, it has to be playful, interac tive, innovative and have a real use other than indicating time. It must a l ways h ave a te c h n i c a l a n d e s t h e t i c consistency. Where do your ideas come from? My ideas stem from everything except from watchmaking. When I s ay e ve r y t h i n g, I m e a n t h e u n i ve r s e, aerospace engineering, all kinds of machines, unusual objects found in flea markets, nature and more. What is your favorite city in China and why? Macau, because I really like the contrast bet ween the old Por tuguese par t, with the ex tremely modern par t of the cit y that has been built and is still being developed.
Why is expanding your facility and making sure it is as advanced as possible important to you? For 25 years, I have realized, designed and made highly-complicated movements for approximately 20 famous Swiss watch brands.
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LIFESTYLE
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LIFESTYLE
A Bridge Between Tradition and Modernity – Corum Has the Key Founded in 1955 in La Chauxde -Fonds, where the brand still has its headquarters, Corum has established itself as a brand that b r i d g e s t h e g a p b e t we e n t r a d i t i o n a l Swiss watchmaking and the modern watch world. Known for its innovative s p i r i t s i n c e i t s f o u n d i n g, C o r u m h a s i n t ro d u c e d s o m e i n c re d i b l e w a t c h e s o v e r i t s h i s t o r y, i n c l u d i n g t h e C o i n watch, the Admiral’s Cup, the Golden Tube (which is the inspiration for the modern Golden Bridge), the Bubble and much more. To d a y, C o r u m c o n t i n u e s t h a t innovative spirit with new versions of the Admiral’s Cup, the aforementioned Golden Bridge, the Ti Bridge and m a ny h i g h w a t c h m a k i n g t i m e p i e c e s, i n c l u d i n g t o u r b i l l o n s , G M Ts , m i n u t e repeaters and much more.
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J u s t b e f o r e B a s e l Wo r l d t h i s y e a r, Corum was acquired by China Haidan, a Chinese company run by Hon Kwok Lung. “I am ver y pleased with this acquisition and I firmly believe in the potential development of Corum,” he said. “ The brand has done a remarkable job under the leadership of Antonio Calce and was able to re p o s i t i o n i t s e l f a s o n e o f t h e m a j o r players in Haute Horologerie. I will enjoy work ing with Mr. Calce, whom I trust to ensure effective management of the company.” Indeed, Corum has retaken its rightful place in the upper echelon of watch companies, capable of mak ing the most complicated watches with stunning designs. One example of this is the Golden Bridge, a combination of high watc h m a k i n g a n d mys te r y, a s t h e intricate movement is on complete display through the sapphire crystal.
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LIFESTYLE
Only Watch Auction Raises Record Amount To d a y, i t ’s r a r e w h e n a n y c o m p a n y does something selfless and only for the benefit of someone else. I t ’s even rarer when a group of 30+ companies do it at the same time. Well, the Only Watch Auc tion held in Monaco in September is the rarest of the rare – 2013 marks the fifth incarnation of this spectacular charity e ve nt, w h e re watc h co m p a n i e s m a ke unique pieces specifically for Only Watc h a n d A L L t h e p ro ce e d s g o to t h e M o n e g a s q u e As s o c i at i o n a g a i n s t M u s c u l a r D y s t r o p h y, s p e c i f i c a l l y f o r research. Only Watch raised more than $6.8 m i l l i o n t h i s y e a r. T h e w a t c h t h a t fetched the highest price was a one-ofa-k ind titanium Patek Philippe, which sold for $3,985,067! “Only Watch star ted in 2005 with the i d e a I h a d o f c re a t i n g a p ro j e c t t h a t would enable the Monaco Association a g a i n s t M u s c u l a r D ys t ro p h i e s (A M M ) to raise money to continue stimulating research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy like we had already star ted doing with other charity auctions through a meaningful project of creativity that would truly interest a certain category of collectors and a d m i r e r s o f b e a u t i f u l o b j e c t s ,” s a y s Luc Pettavino, president, AMM. “I approached the finest Swiss watchmakers to have them join the projec t and they recognized the high profile of the event and its honest c h a r i t a b l e a i m a n d s p i r i t .” T h e n e x t Only Watch will be held in 2016.
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Shinola Runwell WATCH OF THE ISSUE
T
here was a time when Amer ica was the world leader in watc h e s. I n t h e l ate 1 8 0 0 s a nd t h e f i r s t h a l f o f t h e 2 0 t h ce n t u r y, American companies like Hamilton, B a l l, E l gi n a n d o t h e r s re vo l u t i o n i ze d watch production. Until the Americans came on the scene, watches were too expensive for the ordinar y person. Americans industrialized watch produc tion and pioneered the entr ylevel watch. Hamilton and other companies famously had watches that sold for one dollar, mak ing timepiece ownership possible for everyone.
Today, Shinola, a brand new company based in Detroit, MI, aims to bring industrialized watch produc tion back to the US. Formed with Tom Kar tsosis, fo r m e r l y o f Fo s s i l f a m e, S h i n o l a i s a partnership with Swiss movement manufac ture Ronda – Ronda supplies the movementsparts and Shinola does the complete assembly in the Motor C i t y. G r e a t l o o k i n g a n d w e l l - p r i c e d , Shinola watches are really catching on. The company also makes bic ycles and leather goods.
As the watch industr y globalized and the Swiss reasser ted their dominance, watc h p ro d u c t i o n i n A m e r i c a l a rg e l y moved off-shore.
WHAT MAKES THEM TICK
Gong Li
A
ctress Gong Li is a legend, having made her mark at the C a n n e s F i l m Fe s t i v a l w i t h “J u Dou” in 1990 and today being one of the most esteemed actresses of her generation. With her ethereal beaut y and superb talent, Gong Li is an icon for Chinese and world cinema. I caught up with her to talk about watches, time and Piaget, the company with whom she is now working. “ Ti m e l e ave s i t s m a r k o n e ve r y b o d y, a n d c h a n g e s u s i n s u b t l e w a y s ,” s h e s ays p h i l o s o p h i c a l l y, w h e n a s k e d how she is different from the ac tress who went to France for the first time m o r e t h a n 3 0 y e a r s a g o. “ E v e n a f t e r all these years, one part of me has remained the same: my persistence and my belief in embracing challenges and achieving breakthroughs. Only through the continued pursuit of progress and per fection we can renew ourselves and achieve better results. As Piaget ’s motto – ‘Always do better
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than necessary’ - says, you need persistence and courage to make breakthroughs in both acting and everyday life.” It was in Cannes that Gong Li first encountered Piaget and it was love at first sight. “I saw an exquisite and b e a u t i f u l j e w e l r y w a t c h b y P i a g e t ,” she remembers. “At first, I thought it was just another full paved diamond bracelet, but then I found a mysterious b u t t o n o n i t . To m y h a p p y s u r p r i s e , the ‘bracelet’ turned out to be a watch! Th a t j e we l l e r y w a tc h w a s s o e l e g a n t and easy to wear, and its design was so unique that I fell instantly in love with jewellery watches.” As for her success, Gong Li credits her dedication. “ This is the most essential factor to my success,” she says. “Ever y time I take on a role, I pour so much of myself into the character that I even forget the time. Before shooting, I always visit locations related to the film to experience the real life of my c h a r a c t e r, i n o r d e r t o a c c u r a t e l y
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LIFESTYLE
i n t e r p r e t h e r, a n d l i t e r a l l y b e c o m e h e r. I a l w a y s a i m t o d o m y b e s t a n d achieve the best results no matter what I do.” Gong Li wears different watches for the characters in her movies. “A watch reflec ts the personality of its wearer,” she explains. “For instance, in ‘M iami Vice’ I played a villain – girlfriend o f a d r u g d e a l e r. M y c h a r a c t e r w a s intelligent and dar ing, char ming and beautiful. Piaget ’s stunning diamond pavé Magic Hour watch perfectly illustrated these characteristics. A d d i t i o n a l l y, i n ‘ W h a t Wo m e n Wa n t ,’ I p l a y e d a ‘ w o r k p l a c e g o d d e s s .’ Piaget ’s Twice watch highlighted this charac ter ’s confident personalit y and ever-changing sense of style.” Gong Li is a very busy woman, and wearing a great watch helps her to value the time she has. “I cherish the t i m e , e s p e c i a l l y t h e ‘q u a l i t y ’ o f m y t i m e ,” s h e s a y s . “ I n s t e a d o f t h i n k i n g about what I can do within a cer tain period of time, I focus more on the quality of my activities -- reading a good book, enjoying a good movie, making my time meaningful.”
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SPORT & LIFE THE COMPLETE MEANING OF
POLO
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ANOTHER APPROACH TOWARD “ART DE VIVRE”
POLO 201311.indd 62
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LIFESTYLE
Adélaide d'Orléans
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ALL THOSE BEAUTIFUL OUTLINES
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LIFESTYLE
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LIFESTYLE
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LIFESTYLE
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LIFESTYLE
THE DREAM OF A NAVIGATOR
“在我的成长过程中，我将所有的闲暇时间都贡献给了航海和帆板冲浪运动。 我的家人们也都是航海爱好者，我和两位哥哥最终都成为了布列塔尼的航海指导师。 在过去的几年中，我已经完成了多次环绕欧洲的深海巡航，并成功穿越了大西洋和 太平洋。”
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BOSS ATTACHED WITH THE SEA
LIFESTYLE
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LIFESTYLE
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LIFESTYLE
WHERE THERE IS
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W
S
LIFESTYLE
WINE AND SUN
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LIFESTYLE
TIPS Hotel Francois 1er
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LIFESTYLE
TIPS Restaurant La Ruelle
Hotel du Palai
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LIFESTYLE
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LIFESTYLE
' '
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LIFESTYLE
JEWELRIES IN RED CARPET
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LIFESTYLE
TIPS
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NEVER MISS A DETAIL
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LIFESTYLE
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LIFESTYLE
ART COLLECTION HAS A FAVOR IN CHINA
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LIFESTYLE
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LIFESTYLE
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LIFESTYLE
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LIFESTYLE
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LIFESTYLE
MOUSSE CAKE
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LIFESTYLE
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LIFESTYLE
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LIFESTYLE
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DISCOVERING THE PERSONALITY OF SINGLE MALT WHISKY
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LIFESTYLE
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WHICH ONE IS FOR YOU?
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LIFESTYLE
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LIFESTYLE
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FORTUNE CHARACTER
LIST
2013
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FORTUNE CHARACTER BRANDAWARDS
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Giorgio Armani
Chanel
男装无品牌， 所以才让阿玛尼到目前 还没有淡出人们视野
香奈儿 让所有女人 无法拒绝
Chanel
LA MER
香奈儿五号传奇 仍在继续
也许只因为价格
Louis Vuitton
Cartier
Chanel
Bvlgari
Hermès
VanCleef&Arpels
Gucci
Tiffany&Co.
Bottega Veneta
Harry Winston
传统皮具品牌 仍然优势明显
梵克雅宝是亮点
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Patek Philippe
Rolls-Royce
Dassault
Azimut
Rolex
Maserati
Gulfstream
Ferretti
Vacheron Constantin
Bentley
Bombardier
Princess
Chopard
Lamborghini
Cessna
Sunseeker
IWC Schaffhausen
Aston Martin
Hawker Beechcraft
Riva
明年劳斯莱斯 还是第一吗
品牌好未必卖得好
快速发展市场机会很多
没有悬念的第一第二
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Shangri-La
Louis XIII
Hilton
Hennessy
Peninsula
Johnnie Walker
Grand Hyatt
Moet & Chandon
Ritz-Carlton
Royal Salute
精品酒店虽未上榜 但是不可小觑
喝洋酒正越来越 成为时尚
私人银行就是人的业务， 谁来做是关键
讨厌茅台总是第一
威风不减当年
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RocheBobois
用品质成就生活
Mission Hills
全球第一，中国第一
The Hongkong Jockey Club
早一步快一步
中国真正意义的 会员制俱乐部
Net-a-porter
Cheung Kong Graduate School of Business
系出名门
真正的企业家圈子
US
Swimming
US
UK
Running
France
Canada
Yoga
Italy
Australia
Badminton
Switzerland
New Zealand
Golf
UK
留学相关产业正 滋补这些国家
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Christie's
高尔夫看来已经 不吃香
这些其实可以说是 最佳购物地
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正让马球在中国富豪中 成为时尚
清三代的盛世梦想
Fortune Character
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Blancpain
L capital
中国奢侈品二手 O2O 的先行者
中国唯一平台型 富豪媒体
每个员工都让品牌 很有面子
不仅仅是因为投资
中国艺术市场风向标
中国奢侈品会展业 的奇迹
最值得期待的 餐饮上市公司
地段得天独厚
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Louis Vuitton Rolex Giorgio Armani Hermès Cartier Montblanc BMW Gucci Rolls-Royce Ermenegildo Zegna
他们是希望 但不代表未来
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因为专注 所以专业
LVMH 未来的希望
每一件都是艺术品
一个有远见的品牌
财富新贵即土豪
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Chanel
Patek Philippe
Hermès
Rolls-Royce
Patek Philippe
Montblanc
Rolls-Royce
Hermès
Rolex
Louis Vuitton
Cartier
Rolex
Christian Dior
Cartier
Louis Vuitton
Piaget
Bottega Veneta
Chanel
Bentley
Giorgio Armani
品牌影响力排行榜
Patek Philippe
Chanel
Rolex
Patek Philippe
Chanel
Van Cleef&Arpels
Hermès
Bottega Veneta
Cartier
Piaget
Louis Vuitton
Christian Dior
Piaget
Hermès
Christian Dior
Cartier
Van Cleef&Arpels
Salvatore Ferragamo
Tiffany&Co.
Vacheron Constantin
保值是相对的 营销是绝对的
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阶层符号
有品位的品牌都很贵
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FORTUNECHARACTER PEOPLE AWARDS
让中国人在国际奢侈品 牌面前真正有面子的人
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专业研究 影响整个奢侈品行业
品牌与个人相互成就
你可以拒绝广告 但不能拒绝晓明
改变奢侈品行业 品牌营销规则的人
和品牌最多结缘的 艺术家
被第一夫人成就的 设计师
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s U t u o Ab
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极致荟－成就极致
THE LUXURORS
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s w e i v Inter
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THE LUXURORS
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人物
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Events
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大 事 记
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Events
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品牌故事
THE LUXURORS
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s e i r o t S Brand
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品牌故事
THE LUXURORS
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CHIC!ELEGANCE
《CHIC!ELEGANCE》
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CHIC!ELEGANCE
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CHIC!ELEGANCE
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CHIC!ELEGANCE
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CHIC!ELEGANCE
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CHIC!ELEGANCE
我是这样想，快乐能传播，悲伤也能。 如果那个人因为看到你不快乐而自己也不快乐了， 那他下次肯定不希望见到你。 我还是蛮在乎自己在周围人心目中的形象。
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CHIC!ELEGANCE
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CHIC!ELEGANCE
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CHIC!ELEGANCE
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CHIC!ELEGANCE
Jean Paul Gaultier
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CHIC!ELEGANCE
Valentino
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COLUMN
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COLUMN
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COLUMN
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FORTUNE CHARACTER
NEWS|
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NEWS
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NEWS
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NEWS
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NEWS
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NEWS
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NEWS
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NEWS
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NEWS
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NEWS
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NEWS
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SUBMISSION FORM
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INFORMATION
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