The VISION by FORWARD Fashion

FORWARD

The Vision

Managed by The Fash Avenue @thefashavenue Photography Serena Mola @mirakistudios Designer Rock 'N Karma @rocknkarma Model Solomiya @solomiya.skoryk Fashion Director/Stylist Basil Waris @basilwaris Assistant Stylist Kahmeelia Smith @citylightsxox Hair and makeup Ramiro Valpar@ramiro_makeupking Jewelry Carla Szadkoski Jewelry @carlaszad; Rock 'N Karma @rocknkarma Showroom Toronto Fashion Academy @torontofashionacademy

Photography Karl M . LEE @karl_fashion_photographer Designer Orlando Caquias @designer_orlandocaquias Model Sailor Anderson @sailorandersonmodeling

FORWARD Magazine is a bi-annual publication. For information on our publishing cycle, please contact us via http:// www.ForwardFashionToronto.com. 2019 Vision Issue -- Published June 2019. ÂŠ 2019 FORWARD Fashion Toronto. All Rights Reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, distributed or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. EDITORIAL OFFICE FORWARD Magazine is published by FORWARD Fashion Toronto. contact@ForwardFashionToronto.com

FORWARD adverb • towards the front; in the direction, that one is facing or traveling • onwards so as to make progress; toward a successful conclusion. • towards the future; ahead in time

OLGA HUTSUL PHOTOGRAPHY.COM 3

Contents

The Vision

114

Runway Report 62 Vancouver Fashion Week Report by Natasha Ramjohn 94 International Fashion Encounter/ SuperModel Canada Search Finals 2019

Feature

10 Fashion Shoot Extravaganza 48 Stand For Tomorrow Canada Edition Celebrating the Change Makers 56 Do you know who made the clothes you are wearing? Nasreen Sheikh tells the truth about fast fashion 100 MC2: the beauty brand that chemistry built 126 PRADON SILKS reflects the five elements of life 180 AUTHENTIQUE: Empowering Women 194 LUXFINDZ Canadian e-commerce fashion boutique 202 DIVERSITY BLOOMS By Sarah Peel

Editorial 70 Into the spotlight Photography Shayne Gray 78 Diamonds and Strings Photography Karl M . LEE 96 The Masquerade De La Vie Photography Olga Hutsul 106 Beyond Boundaries Photography Fynn Badgley 110 The Spring Moon and California MoonRise Photography Olga Hutsul 114 Karma is a B*tch featuring Designer Rock 'N Karma 121 The Pearl Connection From Pearl to Pearl 132 Anavi Designs handcrafting one bag at a time

Social Report

84 Sharleez Fashion Gala Hosted by Sharleez Foundation

140

86 GREENWOOD STAKES The second installation

Around the Globe 140 PARIS Who is that Girl? 148 NEW JERSEY Brave the Elements 154 ILLINOIS A Week in the Life Featuring Nikki Ilendo 158 OTTAWA Blaze Photography Garry Black 162 TURKEY Portrait of a Modern Woman 166 PARIS The Parisian Digital Girl

121

FORWARD Interview

24 Becca Love On How Genderless Clothing Is a Freedom of Individuality 176 CREATIVE VISION – To sell or not to sell, that is the question. 188 The House of Sass & Magic: An Interview with Designer Stacey Gonder 208 Karine Guimarães An interview with a Vitiligo model from the Brazil Compiled by J. Sánchez-Velo and Fredsonn Silva Agudá.

On the Cover

Photography Ted Belton @tedbelton Model Aliisa Irving @a.liisa1 of Elmer Olsen Model Management @elmerolsenmodels Hair and makeup Michelle Silverstein @michsilvmakeup Designer Lesley Hampton @lesley_hampton Back Cover Photographer Ted Belton @tedbelton Model Ashley Callingbull @ashleycallingbull Designer Lesley Hampton @lesley_hampton Hair and makeup Michelle Silverstein @michsilvmakeup

202 FORWARD Special

157 The Dresscode Project 06 Contributors 09 Editors's Note 40 Opinion by Kate Palmer Blank Canvas Fashion Undefined

162

CONTRIBUTORS

FYNN BADGLEY A Fashion/Advertising Photographer and Director of Photography, with a flair for artistically creating and framing stories. Vivid and bright, Badgley's work aims to pull you into that world and leave you with a sense of wonder." For "Beyond Boundaries" (Page 106) he dared to "showcase power in a way that did not try to fit into any particular box, but rather to move outside of it altogether and be its own complete thing."

TRACY WHITESIDE Based in Chicago, Whiteside is a photographer for over 15 years, specializing in creative images for humans and things otherworldly. She particularly loves fashion, beauty, and fantasy because of the need for everyone to escape now and then. However, in "A Week In The Life" (page 154) she chose to find beauty and fashion in real life while model, Nikki Ilendo, tells the story of what women wear in real life.

KARL M. LEE Fashion Photographer from New Jersey, who is recognized for his characteristic style of colour and pop in his imageryâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; bold and upfront eye catchy. He shot "Diamonds and Strings"(Page 78) and "Brave the Elements" (Page 148) and shows that â&#x20AC;&#x201C;" It isn't just the image, it's not just the subject, but it is the story. It is the process of capturing these images, the need to meet the requirements, and unwavering determination, its all built on teamwork and the drive to get the shot, which moves your adrenaline from the creative ideas that keep the motivation going. Once you are behind the camera, there is nothing else but you and the thought of living in that moment. We are in the moment, in the process of something special; we are on a path, a path of no end. "

OLGA HUTSUL FORWARD Official Photographer

Toronto based fashion photographer, Olga Hutsul is one among the pack of sought after professionals who dedicates her expertise into bringing fashion to life. She has spent over a decade as a significant player in the fashion scene. A household favourite of FORWARD, Hutsul always brings a wealth of creativity to the publication. From the event photography to editorial to lifestyle images, Hutsul was a considerable contribution to the success of current VISION Issue.

ALINA KVITKA

GARRY BLACK Garry Black has spent the last 30 years travelling around the world photographing people and places capturing images with his unique style. Ottawa is where he is based at, when not travelling the globe, either taking pictures to express his creative energy or, presenting seminars and instructional programs to camera clubs and at photo conferences. Canadian Association for Photographic Art recognized Black as one of Canada’s distinguished professional photographers. With his work being published in various publications, he has explored every photography niche. So for FORWARD Black creates an Old Hollywood Glamour with muse Kate Blaze in BLAZE (Page 158).

Alina Kvitka is a 22 years old Ukrainian, living in Turkey, the city of Izmir. She is a student who has been working as a photographer for only a year. Kvitka likes to shoot stylish girls of different nationalities in different countries. She may be new to the industry, but her skills to draw out the right emotions from her subjects already prove that success is hers to be. In “Portrait of a Modern Woman” (Page 162) she tells the story of Margarita Mert, a model who is also a new mother of a 1-year-old. She is depicted as a woman who on the one hand is a gentle and romantic girl, while on the other hand, a confident, persistent woman who achieves her goals in her career and life. NATASHA RAMJOHN Writer Vancouver Fashion A businesswoman who has gained a wealth of experience having worked at best in class corporations and global brands Recently, exploring her passion for fashion and beauty, she immersed herself in the Fashion industry and have had the privilege of working with industry leaders, and spectacular fashion events.

SHAYNE GRAY A creative photographer/videographer based in Toronto, who has been widely published among top media and has been featured as a valuable established educational resource on CreativeLive, SLR Lounge and Retouching Academy and has given photography lectures and lighting demos as far away from home as Lagos, Nigeria. His work has featured Canadian Prime Minister, Justin Trudeau and he has done campaigns for various renowned brands. Among other awards, Shayne Gray was a winner at the 2015 SNAP! Awards. Shayne Gray also sat on the Board of Directors at Gallery 44 for several years. Given his expertise with the industry, Gray is known to probe the boundaries and take his photography to a whole new experience. In "Into the Spotlight" (page 70), he flirts with the shadow to show that despite the known obsession of the photographer with soft light, it's the shadows that create 7 interest and depth.

SARAH PEEL

JULIO SANCHEZVELO

Sustainability educator, stylist, and co-founder at Citizenne, Sarah Peel is proof that we can all be a fashion "influencers" for good!. Her work intersects where personal style meets the practices of a conscious wardrobe. Along with her colleagues, Sarah teaches women how to get dressed for their best self and best world. Peel has worked for almost a decade with Fashion Takes Action as Program Director, building a dynamic and nimble social enterprise sustainably. During her time with FTA, managing a team of workshop leaders and teaching the 'My Clothes My World' program to grade 4-12 students, was her joy. Peel's "Diversity Blooms" (page 202) is a refreshing statement on style in the sustainable/slow fashion movement. She brings a diversity of real-life models (i.e. not professionals) that represent different body types, aesthetics, ages, and cultures/ethnicities that make up the Canadian mosaic, all wearing an outfit they styled themselves that are consciously aligned with their values for sustainability and ethics.

FREDSONN SILVA AGUDA

Julio Sánchez-Velo is a Fashion aficionado who travels for a living and looks at every new destination with a fashion perspective. Born in Spain, he established himself in Canada to pursue his Master’s and his Ph.D. studies in the literature. Nowadays he’s successfully managed to combine his three life passions — travelling, Fashion and writing. Fredsonn Silva Agudá is a Fashion designer and stylist whose fashion sense comes straight from the colourful streets of his hometown in Bahia, Brazil, where the mix of Afro-Brazilian, native and European influences gave him his unique style. After completing his studies in Fashion in his country, he moved to Toronto 3-years- ago to attend the Toronto Fashion Academy, and since then, he has managed to catapult himself to success, contributing professionally to the industry. The duo travel to Brazil and bring the story of Karine Guimarães (page 208) a Vitiligo model who is helping the way we see beauty.

KATE PALMER

Kat Palmer is the designer and founder behind the rural Canadian fashion label Fred & Bean. The label takes up-cycled to the next level by making unwanted clothing and vintage materials fearless, fun and flattering again. All items are sourced, manufactured and sold locally through online social media following, boutiques and festivals. By nature, Fred & Bean has also become the local garment restoration and restyle specialists. Kate Palmer talks about how to let the clothes on hand speak for itself and find glamour in real moments. Paint your Blank Canvas (Page 40) with Palmer.

EDITOR'S NOTE

Upholding the power of a creative endeavour, we made space for all creators to challenge their ideas and see its Vision come to life in the pages of FORWARD– Edition VISION. The artists did something personal, something that truly inspired them; and we see them come to life throughout the pages of our latest spring/summer issue. The inspirational vision cover features the Lesley Hampton, the Canadian First Nations designer who is designing a diverse representation. Lesley Hampton brand weaves her passion for fashion with activism–starting from her runway shows, campaign, to look book, and each piece designed. We also uncover the creativity of Stacey Gonder, the founder and designer of The House of Sass & Magic, an inclusive brand that empowers individuality. We uphold the Vision of The House of Sass and Magic while it promotes ideals surrounding individuality, self-expression, authenticity and advocate for the LGBTQ+ communities as well as human rights as a whole.

"Vision is the art of seeing things invisible."― Jonathan Swift Commercialization nowadays has imposed constraints on creative minds. In business, originality isn't enough. At FORWARD, we know that YOUR "VISION" is essential to you as an artist to create. This current edition "VISION" is to respect the creative mind of an artist. Often society, commercial, obligations, and expectations limit the actual expression or communication of their Vision. It is a platform which will set their minds free from any so-called constraint for true creativity to appear. The VISION Issue give the fashion creators the freedom to open up and put their Vision and point of view across without external constraints crushing their intrinsic motivation--the strong internal desire to do something based on interests and passions.

Women see fashion and beauty as the same thing–they have always been inextricably linked, one influencing the other. We bring Melani Chong, the beautiful brain behind the cosmetic brand, Melani Beauty. Get some exclusive insights on how she bottles your perfect skin in the M bottle. High Priestess of Fashion, Diana Vreeland, said: "The eyes must travel." The Vision Issue travels to bring back a beautiful view of the world. From Paris to Turkey, to New Jersey, and Illinois, to Egypt, to Ottawa and Vancouver, we explore the different, yet very similar interpretations to Vision by artists from a diverse community. We hope that our local artists will find inspiration in like-minded creators from around the globe. It is inspiring to see there is something extraordinary in everything– we encourage high levels of creative expression while making sure to give your creative energy a life! 9

FORWARD Feature

Fashion Shoot Extravaganza –creative collaboration of a high fashion photoshoot

George Pimentel Photography

Fashion photography inspires us all. It reminds us of the power of beauty in the hectic modern lives we all live. We have all fallen under some spell seduced by the beautiful and amazing fashion photographs. The glitz, glam and the notoriety of the rich and famous; The beautiful models with ethereal makeup, clothes most of us will never wear, alluringly captured within the four corners of a poster or glossy magazine spread. However, do you ever stop and wonder just what went into that perfect shot that takes us into a glamorous portal? The work and logistics that go into this formation are largely hidden from magazine readers’ view. Add Marie Copps and Fashion Shoot Extravaganza (FSE) into the equation, then we are given an 10

enlightening glimpse into what it takes to create many a perfect picture. FSE wasn’t just your traditional fashion show. A unique fashion experience which showcased the best of Toronto's unique talents, FSE conquered the fastpaced fashion world where when look-de-jour one day can be deemed passe the next! A combination of a traditional fashion show, theatre, and a live fashion shoot productions, it not only provides a glimpse into fashion as a process, and importantly, it also presents fashion as organization and collaboration. FSE reveal the collaborative process, the hidden relationships between the talents; the

photographer and model, the art director, The Stylist, The Makeup Artist, The Hair Stylist, studio assistants and set technicians. It was a celebration of the collective imagination that required those working on a shoot to produce imagery as each artist expresses their creative ideas, in line with their given theme. The vision of FSE as explained by the producer of the event, Marie Copps, was, “ to bring a fresh perspective and add a spin to the traditional fashion show concept” while shining a spotlight on the passionate artists that are usually forgotten behind the curtains. “I believe in celebrating our unique talents and allowing people to show their skills and sharing their passion for what they love with others,'' says Copps.

“I believe in celebrating our unique talents and allowing people to show their skills and sharing their passion for what they love with others!'' Marie Copps, the founder/ executive director of Fashion Shoot Extravaganza Marie Copps, the founder/ executive director of Fashion Shoot Extravaganza Photography K.William.

There is an intensity to a great show, a distillation of an artist's extraordinary vision. FSE a firsthand look at the shooting of four editorial themes: Whimsical, Bridal, Fetish/Burlesque, and Millionaire Ball showcased the tireless work of unique artists and their unbridled creativity. Copps acknowledges the power couple Vondett and Li Vondett for their theatrical expertise. “I was truly amazed by how the Vondett’s were able to bring the raw vision of mine to live with all the necessary details that I could not think about at that time. They gave life to the whole story and found music for each chapter,” says Copps. The event pulled the creative collaboration brains together in real time while snapping away, with audiences looking over their shoulder the entire time. COPPS Production wrapped up the creative talent behind editorial fashion shoots in a ribbon with a successful show. Also, we are excited to hear that the FSE II is coming our way!■

11 Photography Olga Hutsul

FORWARD Feature

Inside the Fashion Shoot Extravaganza – Behind the Scenes at a High Fashion Photoshoot Chapter One – Youth George Pimentel Photography

FORWARD Feature

Chapter Two â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Wedding George Pimentel Photography

FORWARD Feature

Chapter Four – The Fall

Chapter One – Youth

• Photographer: David Hou • Art Director/Stylist: Poinsetta Lane • Hair: Melissa Purcell • Hair: Allyssa Helm • Hair: Nadia Aziz • Make-up: Christine Cho • Make-up: Jenny Gleanz • Make-up: Inara Poleshuk • Nails: Claudia Rodrigues •Models: Tyra, Roxanne Bilski, Joanna Rossa, Chantel Bedford, Lolie Mbeko, Bonita Gordon, Anna Stabb •Featured Designers: Lulu et Gigi, Julia Fitz Jewellery, Rita Tesolin, Crowned by Juliet Bridal, Anavi Designs, John Fluevog Shoes, The House of Sass & Magic, IF Footwear, Dress Empire, Kerry Parker, Narces Steven Lejambe, Bone & Busk Couture •Décor: Cake and Sweets - Vanilla Bean Cakery, Accessories - Diba Design Group, Furniture Paradise Home Decor Toronto, Décor - GPS Décors

Chapter Two – Wedding

• Photographer: Ara Coutts • Art Director/Stylist: Saira Hussain • Make-up: Monica Rosati • Make-up: Thiso Make-up • Make-up: Emma Hughes • Hair: Shannon Petrolito • Hair: Monique Bisson-Gironi • Hair: Angela Xuereb • Models - Alexandra Mole, Michele

Peter, Alexandra Roulston, Antonia Juric, Alyiana Chu, Natasha Tambur • Featured Designers: Sharleez Bridal, Auneya Bridal, Marie Copps, Ricki Dalal, Valencienne Bridal, Najla Rahimi, Headpiece and bouquet - Zuhoor Designs Décor - Cake - Vanilla Bean Cakery, Accessories - Diba Design Group, Furniture - Paradise Home Decor Toronto, Décor - GPS Décors

Chapter Three – Society

• Photographer: Magdalena M • Art Director/Stylist: Dana Kalinowski • Make-up: Jenelle Greene • Make-up: Gina Ozsvath • Make-up: Evgenia Ruban • Hair: Frank Cini • Hair: Minseo Kim • Hair: Daniel Fortunato • Nail design: Katarzyna Kaminska • Models - Michael Wisniewski, Christian Rodriguez, Andrew Millerr, Pietro Pantanella, Eric Hall, Fran Sesay, Maddie Warner, Asha Dipaola, Solomiya Skoryk, Polina Ivanov, Daria Sells, Sahra Abdi, Diana Schoutsend, Karen Pastrana • Featured Designers: Narces, Lucian Matis, Cherry Burgundy, Najla Rahimi, Rhowan James, Marets Designs, Rita Tesolin, Karen McFarlane, Marie Copps • Décor - Accessories - Diba Design Group, Furniture - Paradise Home Decor Toronto, 17 Décor - GPS Décors

FORWARD Feature

Chapter Three â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Society George Pimentel Photography

Chapter Four â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The Fall Shayne Gray Photography

FORWARD Feature

Chapter Four – The Fall

• Photographer: Shayne Gray • Artistic director: Strawberry Cherie • Make-up: Tika Kumiko • Make-up: Kayla Huotari-Harris • Make-up: Anahita Loghmanifar • Hair: Samantha Wilson • Hair: Blake Arsenault • Models - Kalopsia, Remedy Moore, Dom Davidson, Vicky Blue, Mimi Strom, Chisom, El Trasher, Vespertine Dream • Featured Designer: Maison Chardon • Furniture - Paradise Home Decor Toronto, Décor - GPS Décors 22

Event Production

• Event Producer and Executive Director – Marie Copps of COPPS Productions Ltd. • Event Design and Production – Fancy Fête Events • Project Lead – Natasha Ramjohn • Event and Publicity Manager – Violet Dae Communications • Chief Event Advisor – Andreia McLean • Public Relations – Jessica Panetta • Director, Screenwriter – Vondett • Music Director, Lighting Director – Vondett • Director, Music Director, and Script – Li Vondett • Story Script, Backstage Manager – Li Vondett • Red Carpet Photography – George Pimentel • Dance Choreography – Sebastian “Bash” Hirtenstein • Dancers – Alayna Kellett, Mohogany Brown, Sam Black • Art Directors – Dana Kalinowski, Poinsetta Lane, Saira Hussain, Strawberry Chérie

FORWARD Interview

INTERVIEW: Fashion

Designer Becca Love On How Genderless Clothing Is a Freedom of Individuality

24 Yannick Giguere Photography

Becca Love is a creative

powerhouse from Toronto who spreads a message of compassion and love. Growing up as a first generation Canadian Jew in strict Russian culture meant many years of identity confusion and struggles at school. Becca Love Inclusive Fashion launched in Montreal in 2016. Evolving from a vegan-focused brand, this cruelty-free line features leather alternatives, genderless clothing, and genderaffirming clothing â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it's the fashion for everyone. They design, create, screen print and photograph all of their clothing, along with writing about queer identity under Very Exclusive Queer Club. Becca Love brings recognition and visibility to queer folks of all races, sizes, and pronouns. In this interview, Becca talks about their fashion line, how genderless is a concept which exists beyond the binary, and how the rise in gender-neutral brands are taking gender roles and throwing them in a trash fire. What inspired you to start a gender-neutral clothing line "Becca Love"? I grew tired of the mainstream fashion world telling people how to look, and I knew I had to create a genderless brand. So many of the biggest names in fashion are gay white males who influence the entire commercial market. The leaders in the industry are telling us to dress according to gender and defining what is acceptable within their rigid framework of attractiveness. Fashion, for me,

means no rules for style and shape â&#x20AC;&#x201C; including sizes. You wear what you want when you want. Explain how Becca Love is:

Genderless.

I cater to people who dress without gender in mind, as well as people to whom gender-affirming fashion is essential. I don't follow colour rules or keep styles and sizes different, based on gender.

Inclusive.

Being dedicated to inclusive representation means I strive to make sure all types of people feel seen when they look at my website. I prioritize opportunities to Black, Indigenous and People of Colour, transgender and nonbinary folks. Inclusive fashion acknowledges as well as celebrates everyone equally.

Cruelty-free.

The fashion industry is inhumanely exploitive of animals and the humans who produce clothing. Cruelty-free means I do not use fabric containing animal skin or hair, and I do not manufacture my clothing in sweatshops overseas. All materials are sourced from Montreal and Vancouver and sewn in Montreal by me. I make all my original graphics, and stickers and accessories are made in Montreal and Toronto. When I can expand and hire staff, they will have proper work wages for the skills required to create clothing.

Hand made.

Large factories for fast fashion

Yannick Giguere Photography

have computerized cutting and sewing for speed. The labour for most commercial brands is in countries where worker wages are cheap. Producing clothing is a skill that takes many years to hone as it involves design, patternmaking, fabric sourcing, and sewing techniques. Promoting clothing as handmade acknowledges all the time and skills a person has taken to produce wearable art.

Custom fit.

All clothing is made in two fit styles which are shaped for curves, or a straight fitâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;this allows all body types access to styles that are typically only made for a curved woman's body, or traditional men's clothing that is sized smaller and flat fit. If a lesbian wants to wear a dress shirt without a binder, I can accommodate for their shape. If a trans woman wants to wear a style that is typically fitted to a small waist and large hips, I can offer the same feminine look for her body type. You can be yourself without struggling to make the style you want to match your body type. 25

FORWARD Interview

Yannick Giguere Photography

What does Genderless mean to you, as a concept? Genderless is a concept which exists beyond the binary. It involves freedom for individuality and a fearless sense of self. We live in a patriarchal society that is very slowly coming to understand that we don't have to play by the rules or carry out gendered roles. What fashion needs to understand about "gender neutral"? Gender neutral does not only mean androgynous. It means any colour and any style for anyone. Gender neutral also means that cisgender heterosexual people also do not want to shop in men or women's sections to find what they want. Fashion needs to understand fluidityâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;not everyone is just masculine or feminine; 26

people like me are both at the same time, or swapping elements of both. How is gender neutral clothing different from the unisex label. Traditionally unisex makes masculine styles available to women. The fit is still generally based off men's sizing, and often shapeless or oversize. Feminine styles have yet to be offered to men. Gender neutral brands leave it up to the customer to decide what is right for them. As such, it is a threat to sales as pressuring people to buy specific gender-affirming items creates the insecurity needed to make consumers buy more. Mainstream brands can't adopt gender neutrality because it becomes harder to sell a single image of the type of person who would shop there.

How do you balance between trying to make something beautiful with making something smart? That's a tough one. I always want to be clever, new and make my clothing less shallow. Not everything I make has to be political; some can be for some can be for esthetic pleasure. The biggest challenge is to how to make everything for everyone. What's the hardest, or most nuanced, element to adjust? The hardest adjustment has been sizing. It was straightforward to make sporty oversize clothes. Now, as I get particular with the fit, it demands more diversified abilities and the need to take on more skills. I have realized how much the pattern making methods in

school have failed to accommodate different bodies, and how we often have to choose what gendered sizing to study. What's the best thing about making something genderless? The best thing is seeing someone feel like they are seen and heard. When people look at my designs and feel like they have another option; and know that there is a clothing maker who will give them a safe space to talk about body concerns, it just makes my heart soar. How does sexuality affect the choice of attire? While I wish queer and gay people didn't have to use their style to say who they are, it is an essential form of communication to be found by your peers. Visibility matters to many peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;since this is so prevalent, the terms straightacting or dressing are used when people don't think someone looks queer. There's a bit of pressure to fit the part. Sometimes what we wear is shouting "this is who I am!". It is easy to make friends by thinking you have something in common with people who dress like you. You have an easy prompt approaching someone wearing your favourite band shirt to have a chat. A lot of queer hairstyles have become trendy for hetero men, but generally, a short spikey style or shaved sides is a queer look. If you are LGBTQIA2S+ (Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Transgender, Queer and/or Questioning, Intersex, Asexual,

Two-Spirit, and the countless affirmative ways in which people choose to self-identify) meeting people usually means going to gay bars, community centers, queer dance parties, or using dating apps. These options are limited and don't work for quiet folks. Sometimes, we are found through the way we dress. Even though women have worn masculine clothing for ages, it is the femininity in menswear that seems to be the rage, comment. I am SO happy to see menswear transform into fewer rules. For years I had no interest in making menswear as it was too rigid. Men are taught to be emotionless and robust, and that femininity is a weakness. Femininity is powerful goddess energy. Femininity is mother earth. For menswear, femininity could be a huge aid to dismantle toxic masculinity. I want men to feel they can be fluid regardless of sexual identity.

Comment on how the fashion industry makes this space more accepting than any other? High fashion is creative and allows more room for revolution. Androgyny has long been accepted but only as a theme used for visual art and not for the fluidity in someone's life. The industry is not fully accepting of queerness. Fashion uses humans as commoditiesâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;everyone is naturally intrigued by a gender-ambiguous person, which may keep consumers attention for a couple more seconds. Queer models are hip and new, and a trend at the moment. Many brands feature thin white models as their genderless face, which in itself promotes stereotypes. I think we can truly empower change by focusing on independent shops. Putting funds into queer hands - especially marginalized folks gives them more opportunities for selfsustainability.I am skeptical to say the industry is an accepting place, as they portray very few types of queerness at the moment. "â&#x2013;

Photography Laurence Philomene @ laurencephilomene 27

Spring Beyond the Binary Pret-a-porter pour tous

Photography Becca Love @ilovebeccalove Designer Becca Love @ilovebeccalove Models Sorya @sssoyasauce CJ @jung_rascal Toshiro Arthur Kamara @stylistiking Noka Palm Trees @bigbelliegyal Makeup Sbarina Philbert @chromartistry 28

FORWARD COVER Story

LESLEY HAMPTON

Designing a Diverse Representation

Lesley Hampton walks her finale bow at Toronto Fashion Week 2019, wearing Lesley Hampton

Lesley Hampton, 24, and is already an old

The Lesley Hampton brand started during Lesley's first week of fashion school, as Hampton saw a lack of representation in the Canadian fashion industry. She saw a gap in the industry for a positive body brand that pushed for mental health awareness, and inclusivity in fashion in Canada, specifically evening wear. As such, this focus on diversity is the founding principle, and it is at the core of the Brand. Starting from her runway shows, campaign, to look book, and each piece designed, diversity remains at the heart of Lesley Hampton.

Hampton defines herself and her Brand through the amalgamation of indigeneity, her Anishinaabe and Mohawk heritage, as well as her early nomadic upbringing.

When asked about her muse, she said women of all shapes and sizes who takes confidence in glam gowns and cocktail dresses to show off their curves play as the muse to Hampton designs. "My favourite part about designing for these women is creating a piece–either custom or as part of our collection– that transforms the emotions of its wearer," shared Hampton. To see a woman light up in the changing room as she first puts on a Lesley Hampton is breathtaking and inspires me to continue the Brand, she added.

hand of the Toronto fashion industry. The Newfoundland native, who grew up with constant relocation from Canada's Arctic and Atlantic, Australia, England, Indonesia, New Caledonia, has found her anchor. The Brand LESLEY HAMPTON founded on the principles of inclusivity, identity, awareness, and heritage are defined by the characteristics developed from being a Third Culture Kid; and critiques their application in present-day society–in fashion, media, and pop culture.

"Becoming a nomad through experiences with boarding school, international school, adoption, and cross-cultural experiences, I nurtured a passion for socio-cultural concepts, to help define my identity, and reconnect with my indigenous roots," says Hampton.

The FW 17 Campaign in collaboration with the Be Body Aware Project

Current page Photography Pires Photography @piresphoto Model Tia Duffy @tiaduffyofficial Nini Amerlise @nini_4u Hair and makeup Erin Nicole @artisterin1 Opposite page Photography George Pimentel @georgepimentel1 Hair and makeup Michelle Silverstein @michsilvmakeup

FORWARD COVER Story

Photographer Ted Belton @tedbelton Model Ashley Callingbull @ashleycallingbull Designer Lesley Hampton @lesley_hampton Hair and makeup Michelle Silverstein @michsilvmakeup

FORWARD COVER Story

Photographer Ted Belton @tedbelton Model Rachel Romu @rachelromu Designer Lesley Hampton @lesley_hampton Hair and makeup Michelle Silverstein @michsilvmakeup 34

SS19 Presentation at Conceptual Event Society's CES Presents showcase at the King Edward Hotel Photography George Pimentel @georgepimentel1

Lesley Hampton focuses on changing the Canadian and International fashion industry standards on beauty norms, and what is seen as ideal. Both with the brands signature collection and their diffusion collection, Robust by Lesley Hampton, it focuses on self-awareness in terms of body positivity and mental health awareness to allow for a greater acceptance of every body type by the fashion industry. "We are doing this by increasing exposure to inclusive casting for all our projects and in doing so, we continue this conversation in media," says Hampton. The Brand draws inspiration from notations that embody inclusivity,

and broader perceptions of beauty that leads to mental health awareness and bodypositive advocacy. With that core ethos in mind, the design process of each Lesley Hampton collection begins with a conceptual focus in mindâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;what they want to say with the collection and what statement they are going to push. "Often we have a conflict within ourselves or directed to society that we critique with each collection," said Hampton. Rough sketches for the collection, followed by sourcing of material that translate the emotion she

Margaret Trudeau walking for Lesley Hampton during Toronto Women's Fashion Week 2018 Photography Che Rosales @cherosalesphoto

hopes to present in the collection are all part of her conceptual process before beginning the draft. From sketch to the final product, each Lesley Hampton piece has a journeyâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; and it is the excitement to see how each piece develops and take form throughout the design process is what makes developing the collection an adventure for Hampton.

FORWARD COVER Story

"Fashion is the edge of greatness. We are in a shift as a society between media dictating us how to look, act or think, and how we are progressing to freedom of individuality." Lesley Hampton

"My favourite part about designing for these women is creating a pieceâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;either custom or as part of our collectionâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; that transforms the emotions of its wearer."Lesley Hampton

Photographer Ted Belton @tedbelton Model Ashley Callingbull @ashleycallingbull Designer Lesley Hampton @lesley_hampton Hair and makeup Michelle Silverstein @michsilvmakeup

FORWARD COVER Story

Fashion is valued for its craftsmanship as well as its quality. With globalization, the fashion industry has changed both the way fashion trends are transmitted and the way the clothes are produced. The industry has opened up to a variety of new styles, influences, and methods of production. As the fashion industry faces a dilemma between creativity and commerciality, how does one find a balance? What is more critical; the vision of creativity or that you have to sell something? In this current accelerated industry that shows no signs of slowing down, where does Lesley Hampton who defines creativity as the visualization of inspiration stand? "I think fashion is the edge of greatness. We are in a shift as a society between media dictating us how to look, act or think, and how we are progressing to freedom of individuality. I think designers (historically defining the trends of society) now need to follow society into new greatness," shares Hampton. For the Lesley Hampton brand, the transition from vision to the runway is very organic. The designs originate from the Brand's vision and creative process, however, they do include

some designs or choices of fabrics that are more commercial. They do this to cater to a range of needs of the client, however, always staying true to the original vision. Saleability, marketability, and wearability are the factors that constrain the performance of creative work for the Hampton designs. Designers have an underlying guideline to follow in terms of the saleability of an item. However, we should design without letting it make us feel constrained through the designing process, says Hampton. "We design more creatively for collections and then allow the client to develop a customized interpretation of what they see on the runwayâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;customized to cater to their style and use." In years down the road, Hampton sees herself continuing to grow the Brand to new heights globally, showing other designers and image makers how to combine inclusivity with mainstream and high fashion seamlessly. "I believe that (hopefully) by then, the mainstream fashion industry has surpassed inclusivity as a momentary trend and that it has become an ethos within every brand to allow for all customers and clients to feel selfacceptance in any size."â&#x2013;

"We design more creatively for collections and then allow the client to develop a customized interpretation of what they see on the runwayâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;customized to cater to their style and use." Lesley Hampton

FORWARD Opinion

Blank Canvas Fashion Undefined Photography Courtney Zoeller @courtneyzoeller Fred & Bean@fredandbean Models Brennan McConnell @brossmcc Courtney Zoeller @courtneyzoeller Erica Thalen Designer Fred&Bean

Define yourself with modified thrift, one unique style moment at a time. Let the clothes on hand speak for itself and find glamour in real moments. Paint your Blank Canvas! 40

FORWARD Opinion What exactly is Fashion? It is not a dramatic question at the very least. Fashion means something different to everyone, and at all different times. It may seem like a simple concept, but behind the word is a world full of life of its ownâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;creativity, passion, breakthroughsâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; the possibilities are endless. So how do we define what Fashion is now? Asks the designer and founder of the rural Canadian fashion label Fred & Bea, Kat Palmer. She reflects upon the current state of the Fashion, which is moving too fast, and on how to reshape its landscape.

OPINION: Fashion Nowadays By Kate Palmer

Fashion. Probably one of the

most difficult words for a person to define with accurate relevance. However, first, how much do we fully understand what Fashion ever was? We may know some reasons why or what has influenced change over the years, but it's usually easier to see that only through looking back in hindsight to the past eras, where we have grown so removed from the style or trend that its relevance becomes plain to see and even just plain ridiculous. Alternatively, we can also more easily define it looking ahead, to predict what the future influences might be and why. However, why does it seem so much less clear to understand just what Fashion is now? Right now. With as many moving parts as water happening before our eyes every second but like a dream, we can't seem to grasp what's happening right in front of us. Let alone we say what it means to us. It may be tied up with the fact that the answer is not all that good to hear or even clear enough to be able to aware of, 42

let alone address. The issues locked up in our closets and hanging like additional weight on the very garments themselves. It's certainly nothing as tangible to define as the fabric beneath our fingertips. However, it's probably one of the single most things that can define a person's sense of personal comfort and happiness when we dig a little deeper than the distinct ways we look at our wardrobes. With so many trends and styles coming at us at the speed of light and produced to consume before actual reasons of end use, it makes it challenging to be able to see through the clutter and understand that Fashion is and will always be a blank canvas. Moreover, the real truth is that it's anybody's canvas. Completely undefined. So let us boil it down even more. Where does one begin with all of this nonsense, and how can we possibly reshape the World of Fashion? It's quite simple. How does your clothing make you FEEL? That's it. So it's the single most important

thing that matters. It matters more than the colour. More than the shape. More than the trend. More than the way that you perceive how other people will look at you. Because how you feel, every single day is the very same fabric that weaves your life together. So it is going to shine through one way or another and to choose a 'piece of crap' is no way to live. The craziest part is that we are so used to feeling like frumpy wrinkled shrunken pilling garbage that we think it's 'US' and not the clothing. Those comfy slinky clingy jersey knits are one size fits all for a reason and should not be taken personally. Again, it's not us; it's our revolving clothing choices. So when we can start to become aware of this in the same way that we are aware of the food we are eating and the gym we are slaving at, at some point we have to turn the tables back around and free ourselves from being the victims of Fashion that we are. Overseas you might find the slaves, but over here is where you will find all the victims.

When we start owning what we wear, not wearing what we own, sit back and watch how the rest of the World will begin shifting into placeâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; that's how we make a real difference. That's how we change the landscape. If what you are wearing doesn't empower you in the same way that a pair of mad fitting highwaisted denim bell bottoms from the 1970s does, against a vintage brick wall, paired with a shirt that doesn't give a rats asshole what you think of it, then I'm afraid you're doing it all wrong. Might as well give up on life and eat hotdogs for breakfast every day and watch the American news to fill the void kind of wrong. Life is passing you by, and you are not even alive wrong. If your outfit needs to be taken in or up, or let out by 1 inch here or there to take it from 'whatever' to 'banging'; yes the alteration may cost more than the pant even though the pant is worth more than it cost. You will buy five more pairs which you are then just going to donate it not knowing that you are doing it all wrong too. It might sound crazy because that one little inch is all it

takes to reshape the game completely. Sewing machines used to be as 'normal' of a household item like a toaster for real reasons. Too much pressure on companies to fit every size style and shape will sink any boat trying to do that. Find a label that works for you and stick with it, if your outfit doesn't make you feel like you're wearing the most elegant ballroom gown that was sewn right to your body than your doing it all wrong. It doesn't have to be expensive to be GOOD. If you have to get out the thread and needle yourself, then we might get to sit back and watch the clutter clear. Fast fashion overdose we are surrounded with has become weary. People ARE more than their clothing, and yes, they realize it. They're waking up and pioneering the way and bringing their best selves forward. Naturally, nobody does this better than our ultrapassionate millennials whose anti-fashionable styles and ill fits scream, "you can't market your fancy lifestyles

to me because I ain't buying it!", Our globe-trotting adventurers, die-hard thrifters, gender-neutral style benders, natural spirits and the artistic or always radical at heart. You know who you are. The ones who could wear a god damn handmade adult cloth diaper and make it look like you wish you looked good in it. They get it. They can see through the fad of fast Fashion. As tempting as it is to buy into it, they have found another way around the overwhelm of the most heavily marketed at the very pinnacle of fast Fashion. The key factor here? When you feel good in what you have on, you feel good about yourself. Everyone feels it too. So be kind to the Earth. Because YOU are the only 'World' you will ever know. Forget your never-ending diet plan, sit back, be you and watch it all change. Also, it's never been an exciting time to redefine. Without even touching on environmental concerns or human rights, it's safe to say that the anti-fashion movement is here, the high-end runways are shaken from the ground up; there's no way that it's not here to stay.â&#x2013;

FORWARD Feature

Stand For Tomorrow Canada Edition

Celebrating the Change Makers

In a world of celebrity and clickbait, we often forget that there are real everyday heroes worthy of the headlines. Leading lives of integrity, the passion-filled individuals are committed to placing service above self-interest. They are the unsung heroes with powerful voices, quietly seeking change without glory. This Spring, TOMS launched the Stand For Tomorrow Canada Edition at the Buy Good Feel Good Expo in Toronto, in April 2019. In collaboration with the Buy Good Feel Good Expo, TOMS recognized the great work of three local change makers who don't just speak up or speak out, but stand up for change, one small action at a time. "TOMS is so proud to be launching the Stand For Tomorrow Campaign in Canada at The Buy Good Feel Good Expo. Their community embraces change makers, encourages risk-takers, stokes reimaginers and empowers us to

stand up and stand together for our values, and play a role in our vision for a better tomorrow," Mark Brasier, General Manager, TOMS Canada. "We are thrilled to be partnering with TOMS, a brand that inspired many consumers and businesses alike. There are individuals out there that, every day, are making our world a better place and through this partnership, we get to celebrate and recognize some of them," Rafik Riad, Founder, Buy Good Feel Good Expo. TOMS Stand For Tomorrow recognized the three local changemakersâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; Chef Jagger Gordon, the founder of Feed it Forward for his stand for resilience; Mac Madrigal, the co-founder of The Kickback & Company for his stand for the community; and Jana Girdauskas of The Period Purse for her stand for equity. FORWARD proudly stands by their passion and tireless energy as we get some insight into what it takes to address social challenges and drive positive change.

Mac Madrigalâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Stand for Community Over 1500 pairs of sneakers (and still counting) that is the number of Toronto inner-city youth The Kickback & Company has empowered to reach their full potential, since its inception in 2017. The Kickback & Company is a sneaker drive utilizing the sneaker culture to inspire and help the youths get excited about getting an education, and finding their purpose. They innovate ways to tie footwear into sport, art and media by reintroducing new methods of mentorship with hands-on workshops, physical activities, creative arts tutorials, and building relationships through the conversation of sneakers.

Mac Madrigal, the co-founder of The Kickback & Company, is one of the changemakers recognized by TOMS for his stand for the community. Twenty-seven years old Mac is a Barber by trade at Crows Nest barbershop, a philanthropist by second nature with Muay Thai for passion. His love for music, sports, sneakers, and respect for hip hop culture, are very deeprooted, and it defines who he is as an individual. Mac grew up in a marginalized project housing neighbourhood in Scarborough. His early childhood experiences have allowed him to understand and appreciate the things he does with The Kickback today.

From planning the Kickback Run Club or the Confident Cuts program to being the participant of the programs himself, his role and involvement with the Kickback are profound. The Kickback Run Club is a break from their regular pattern of mentorship. The weekly relaxed "casual" run "help change the mindset kids have on running and bring awareness to its health benefits." Confident Cuts program is a "workshop focused on mental health, selflove and confidence." Confident cuts have helped youth develop skills, awareness and insights necessary to achieve their goals moving forward. 49

social change is a gratifying experience. It is such a wonderful feeling to meet new faces, build relationships with people you may never come across, learning about yourself through strangers. Its all about growth, growing personally and externally, and volunteering one's time to help a good cause hoping to make a change." Every experience he had with The Kickback has been very fulfilling and is worth every second of his time.

FORWARD Feature

"The Kickback started with my dear friend Jamal and his idea to raise 100 pairs of brand-new sneakers," says Mac. The lightly worn sneakers donated by friends then went to the youth who actively participated in the community centre of Regent Park. The big day which saw music, food, self-reflection worksheets, free haircuts, and the indispensable star of the day, the brand- new pairs of sneakers for the kids, all for back to school, gave birth to The Kickback & Company. "Being surrounded by a team that has grown so deep, filled with wonderfully compassionate and supportive people, it has become second nature to help build a safe community for the kids. Also, I have a deep emotion attached to what I do, and it is personal to me, so it is important that I remain actively involved to influence young people positively. Besides, it is crucial that these kids in specific, given their plight,

don't feel like we were just a onetime deal. So being consistent with keeping the neighbourhoods busy is important me". Mac Madrigal, the co-founder of The Kickback & Company. The main focus of Kickback is to empower the adolescents of the marginalized communities. What is missing in our system in terms of fund and opportunities for the marginalized communities? According to Mac, it is a lack of understanding. It is essential to know them as an individual, understand their culture, trials and tribulations, and to know how to work within those means to inspire them. "We need to understand their language and use it connect with them, know and use their likes and dislikes as tools for us to break the mould, pushing them to be their better selves. When quizzed about the most rewarding aspect of his work as a community builder, Mac response is simpleâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; "getting involved with

To be recognized for all the changes they have pushed into the lives of the youth was something he never saw coming. Moreover, being recognized by TOMS as one of the changemakers certainly is encouraging, says Mac. "It is a good feeling knowing that there are people who appreciate and support the organization. The more awareness we bring of our hard work, the better it is to help us push our boundaries so much further, and reach out to more youth across the world." As global problems have become more prominent, we need changemakers now more than ever, or as Mac Madrigal puts it: "Surround yourself with positive people who support and believe in you, all the while believing in yourself. Harness that power in you to be a change and give back. The world is big, and the global problems even bigger, and it needs us, now."â&#x2013;

Jana Girdauskasâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; Stand for Equity Jana Girdauskas founded the nonprofit The Period Purse (TPP) with the spark of one simple idea: giving free menstrual products to people experiencing homelessness. The Period Purse started in February of 2017 with the strive to achieve menstrual equity! Through activism and outreach programs, the team is educating students in schools; reducing the stigma around periods; and advocating for policy change with various levels of governments. "We are striving towards menstrual equity and reducing the stigma around periods through education and advocacy," says Jana Girdauskas, and "our blue sky goal is for all marginalized menstruators to have free access to menstrual supplies." What inspired you to start the Period Purse? I was driving to work one day, and a woman was panhandling at my car door at a red light in Toronto. That night when I went home and picked out some items from my closet, I saw my menstrual supplies and right there I had my ah-ha moment: what do people do experiencing homelessness on their periods? With that one person, that one red light, The Period Purse was born.

What is 'period stigma'? Period stigma has grown from us not knowing enough about them, which creates myths. This taboo was fed by "studies," media, lack of knowledge, and minimal education on menstruation. How does shame and silence harm people who menstruate? When our society doesn't talk about periods, we feel like it's shameful to get our periods and it's a secret that we only whisper; this is why TPP advocates to educate teenagers, talk about it in schools, and make it normal by debunking all those century-old myths!

What are the significant barriers that lead to period challenges among women and transmen within marginalized communities? Money. Marginalized menstruators don't have any or little money left over at the end of the month. When it's a choice between a meal and a box of tampons, they are going to choose food. It leads to homemade period products that lead to infections, which leads to a horrible monthly cycle.

FORWARD Feature What do you think is missing in our system in terms of funding and opportunities for marginalized communities? Government funding is what is missing in our system. We should have a free product in all our public bathrooms. We have free soap and free toilet paper, but sadly someone along the way decided that we shouldn't have free period products in every bathroom. What was the most rewarding experience you've had with the Period Purse? Debra. Debra is a woman with lived experience currently working with some shelters around Toronto. She told me her story, explained how she survived off one tampon for her entire period. I learned how to make a pad out of toilet paper from her. Debra has suffered an ongoing infection because of her lack of access to menstrual supplies. Then The Period Purse entered her lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; now healthy with free access to the 'period products' of her, today, Debra is a happy devotee of TPP handing out our period packs with pride to everyone and anyone who needs them. I am lucky to have met Debra. How do you see The Period Purse continuing to influence young people positively? We will spread our outreach to more cities, support more indigenous communities, educate more young people about reusable products, and make policy changes! 52

"It is effortless to give; to be kind. Know that your one simple good act can change someone's day, a week, and a life." Founder, The Period Purse, Jana Girdauskas

What advice would you give someone who wants to get involved in social change? Each one of you can make a difference, and I have proven that we have the power in us to address social challenges and lead to positive change. Use your passion, call in your friends, and make a difference one step, one idea, and one event at a time. What are the three most significant changes you would like to see in the world around you? I want the society to understand that menstruating isn't something to be disgusted at, and for everyone to be able to talk about periods openly. I look forward to the majority of people choosing reusable period products. Also, for (more) organizations and school boards to provide free access to period products in the bathroom. How does it feel to be recognized as one of the TOMS changemakers? It is an honour to be highlighted by TOMS as a changemaker. It's exciting that others are also unafraid to say periods. It is inspiring to know that there are supporters who encourage discussions on menstrual equity. Thank you TOMS!â&#x2013;

Chef Jagger Gordonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Stand for Resilience

food insecurity.

One-third of the world's food ends up in a landfill. Thirty-one billion dollars of perfectly good food is wasted every year. However, one social changemaker is determined to tackle the issue of food waste by tapping into perfectly nutritious and consumable food items that are thrown out simply because they are nearing their labelled expiration dates. That changemaker is executive chef Jagger Gordon, founder of 'Feed It Forward' community food program. Chef Gordon is not only helping to feed disadvantaged Canadians; he is also reducing the environmental impact by recusing food.

A brief background on Feed It Forward and what inspired you to start Feed It Forward? Feed It Forward is a 100% volunteer-run nonprofit that works with food producers to take highquality, nutritious food destined for landfill and redirect it to feed families and individuals living on the margins.

79300 meals served; 134400lbs food saved from landfills; 79300 bellies filled, those are the numbers achieved by Chef Jagger Gordon and his Feed it Forward Program. So for his stand for resilience to "Feed Canadians and not Landfills" Chef Jagger Gordon is one of the changemakers of TOMS Stand For Tomorrow Canada. In this interview, Chef Gordon shares how 'Feed it Forward' started, its vision, the challenges it faces, and how the program is addressing food waste and

Our four main objectives are to lessen the impact of environmental waste by rescuing food; to reduce food insecurity by diverting this food to people in need; to educate people living on the margins about food waste and nutrition, and to involve the community by offering ways to get involved. In a city where wages are stagnating, the cost of living increasing every year and where healthy food is prohibitively expensive, many Torontonians eat on a strict budget. The efforts of food banks and soup kitchens provide immediate relief to those who are struggling, but ultimately, a more sustainable solution is needed to address our city's mounting food insecurity. 53

produced. Just under one half of food wastage occurs in residential homes– households waste approximately $50 of food per week. The remainder occurs within the food supply chain– As an adult, I ended up in the the production, processing, delivery, military, working in kitchens and and sale of food. In 2007, Canadians travelling all over the world. After, I wasted 183 kilograms of solid food per left the army and enrolled in person, and this means that 2.8 culinary school taking with me a million people in Toronto waste 512 It was a moment that haunted rich knowledge of the many flavour million kilograms of food every year. me, prompting me to look into profiles I'd encountered on my An estimated 80% of this food was the accessibility of nourishing travels, as well as a keen awareness once edible. food in my community. I was working as a chef at the time, and of the importance of access to clean water and nourishing food. Much of this food is safe to eat but being in the industry, I was all lacks enough avenues to divert this too aware of how much perfectly We all need to eat; we all have that food from the landfill into the mouths good food gets thrown away every in common. When you sit down to a of those who need it. There are some day by restaurants and grocery meal and break bread with large-scale food diversion programs stores because of minor someone, you're raw at that where large food producers donate imperfections. I saw this as an moment. That's universal. products that they cannot sell (often opportunity and started a freezer due to labelling issues) to food banks, program called Feed Families which supply daycares, soup kitchens, Feed it Forward is addressing two that sends nutritionally dense and food banks. However, there are major cause– food waste and food meals to families in need on a few avenues for perishable food insecurity. What causes and monthly rotation. Overwhelmed by the response to that program, challenges lay behind these issues? diversion and no options at all for individual households to successfully I then launched Feed it Forward The Environmental Commissioner of Ontario has identified food waste and independently divert. As such, to meet the demands of as an emerging environmental issue, healthy, edible food is wasted and Torontonians in need better. as Canada waste 40 percent of food landfilled.

FORWARD Feature

You are very passionate about the issue of food waste. How did your upbringing or experiences influence this passion? My success is a result of both my years in the military and my electric passion for all of my passion projects, including tackling Toronto's often hidden struggles with hunger. Food has been at the forefront of my life since I was a child. Being raised by a single mom who didn't have much time to cook or shop for groceries made me aware from an early age the importance to have good food in the fridge. I reminisce about the family dinners my grandmother would host on weekends, and 54

how I looked forward to them all week because it was the only time I ever got to eat a hearty, homecooked meal.

There are many people who don't want to throw food away but are challenged by the lack of proper channel to divert food efficiently, so we do our best as an organization to rescue food from individuals. However we too experience logistical and geographical constraints. A major barrier to food rescue and diversion is the logistics, storage, and coordination to get food from the people who have it to the people who need it. Feed It Forward recognizes that while we have several existing programs which successfully rescue and divert food, there is more we can do to empower individuals to be a part of the solution. Who are your partners, and how do you source your food? Major partners include our own managed farm, Whole Foods and COBs Bread, manufacturers and distributors who often have large quantities of food to get off their shipping dock, or small caterers or event companies who have extra prepared food or ingredients. We divert most of our food through our grocery store, and any food that is not distributed through the store directly, Feed it Forward funnel is through our other programs–the soup bar, the kitchen, and other events and organizations. We do everything we can to make sure everything finds a home. In a short amount of time, Feed it FORWARD has already made a big difference. Why do you think it works well? It acts as a social movement uniting community members, individuals, families from infant to elder in a common goal of providing food security that creates positive results in a short time. Also, everyone can relate to having food sustenance daily, like having shelter and clothing! What was the most rewarding experience you've had with Feed it FORWARD? A full stomach and a smile on the face; volunteers helping to make a difference with redirecting perfectly edible food from landfill to people needing it daily–is what makes my experience rewarding.

"Don't ask what the community can do for you – ask what you can do for the community!" Founder, Feed It Forward, Chef Jagger Gordon

What do you think we can do to solve the problem of food waste as an individual, society and as a country? More education by the government and implement better food laws; self-awareness by individuals to only buy and consume what is needed; better management of supply by producers; and to have better habits. What do you think is missing in our system in terms of awareness and education regarding food waste? Need more information on where food comes from regarding supply and logistics, access to food producers, curve overpricing of food– mainly imported and organics– to allow for more affordability. What are the three most significant changes you would like to see in the world around you? Access to affordable food; Education on food literacy and zero waste practices; Break the cycle of poverty by increasing wages and stop part-time labour (to avoid ineligibility for benefits). What advice to give someone wanting to get involved in creating social change? Don't ask what the community can do for you – ask what you can do for the community! How does it feel to be recognized as one of the TOMS changemakers? Fabulous to be associated with like-minded people that inspire, inform, and put their ideas into positive action!■

FORWARD Feature

Sweatshop worker turned entrepreneur–

Founder & Executive Director: LOCAL WOMEN'S HANDICRAFTS/ Empowerment Collective, International public speaker, Antisweatshop advocate, Millennial commentator on power, Fairtrade, Gender justice & Environmental protection –Nasreen Sheikh shares her inspiring story of how she escaped oppression, life of arranged marriage and child slavery and poverty to start her own ethical & fair trade textile company. She tells FORWARD about her life as a child sweatshop worker forced to sew the fast fashion we wear every day. Tell us the brave story of Nasreen Sheikh. I was born in a remote village where neither birth nor death is recorded. If you were to ask me how old I am, I couldn't tell you honestly. Not only are we very economically disadvantaged, we are also 100% below the poverty line, so cut out of the world completely. We exist in a male-dominated society where women have no rights. We are not even allowed to laugh loud; it's considered disrespectful. We are forced into arranged marriages and become housewives where at the end of the day, there is abuse and torture. In the beginning, this was all very normal to me. However, when I was around six or seven, I started to realize that it was not right–realization began when I witnessed my aunt's murder in the hands of her husband. My aunt was loud; she would wear makeup and lipstick–her fearlessness cost her life to her husband, who was stigmatized by society for her courage. The whole village knew about her death, but it went unreported. When I asked my 56

Do you know who made the clothes you are wearing?

Nasreen Sheikh tells the truth about fast fashion

mother about it, she would say, 'Let's not talk about it.' Then I witnessed one of the saddest things of my life; my own older sister being forced into marriage when she was only 12-years-old. I knew that I would be the next, and I also knew that I would not find help in that village. So around the age of 9 or 10, with one of my cousin's support, I moved to Kathmandu. Tell us about your life as a sweatshop labourer; and of forced marriage? How did you escape it? I started my first job around 8 or 9-years old for a clothing corporation that used loosely regulated foreign manufacturing. To keep up with the corporation's demands for low cost and fast production, these factories created illegal sweatshops in inner cities using undocumented workers. As illustrated in the facts below, there are millions of undocumented, men, women and children suffering at the hands of fast fashion corporations: 40.3 million men, women and children are victims of slavery internationally 151.6 million children aged 5 to 17 are child labourers Over 1 billion people live under $1 a day 35% of all births and 60% of deaths go unrecorded. Every 2 seconds, a girl is forced into marriage to produce more free labour. Sadly, being an undocumented child put me at high risk to all of these things. Six of us lived, worked, and slept in a 10×10' room without a bathroom nor clean water. We were forced to work seven days a week for 10 to 12, sometimes 15 hours a day, getting paid less than $2 a day. My only bed was a massive pile of clothes I produced each day.

At night, I fell asleep on these clothes and dreamt of where they would end up and who would wear them. If you are reading this and do not know who made your clothes, you may be wearing the clothes I sewed as a child. In the sweatshops, I witnessed how chemicals and dyes were discarded into our waterways and drained illegally. Due to industrial waste, our once beautiful rivers that ran through the city are nearly dry and filled with pollution. Today, industrial pollutants are the leading poison in Nepal's rivers. Nature has never known suffering like this, all at the hands of irresponsible and unaccountable corporate manufacturing. We have lost 30% of our natural resources.

Katie Zeppieri @katiezeppieri ( who wrote the Forbes article that initiated Nasreen's recognition globally) with Nasreen Sheikh. photography by Dina Bajric

In my case, the work lasted for two years, then the agent running the sweatshops disappeared. He took our two month's salary as well– I became homeless. I was around 12 years old and living on the streets watching kids my age go to school while wishing away that I could also have parents who could clean me, give me shoes, and books and send me to school, but my reality was so far from them. One day as I was doing my usual–cherishing the students go to the school, a dog comes up and starts getting friendly with me. Behind this dog stood a gentleman–my future and my present. He was only a stranger, but I sought refuge in him to educate me. I asked him not for money or food but to educate me. For the last ten years, he has been the school that I had always wished for–he taught me English, computer and technology and the internet, along with mathematics, philosophy, religion and the arts. As I studied and lived in a small

room, I came to understand the value of a quality education which opened my eyes to the world system, a system which is not set up for human happiness. There is inequality, especially amongst women and children. There were many problems in Kathmandu, so I started to think 'What can I do?' I didn't have any money, but I had the skills that I had learned in the sweatshop. I needed a microfinance loan to get me started, but nobody wanted to give me the money because "I am just a little girl." I put my energy twenty times more than a normal man does, which finally got me a $1,000 loan to help me buy my first sewing machine. A Local Women's Handicrafts was born in 2008 when I was around 15 years old. Local Women's Handicrafts is a fair trade textile and handicraft collective in Kathmandu, Nepal. We focus on empowering and educating disadvantaged/ marginalized women using sustainable methods. All our products are ethically produced, providing fair wages and working conditions for the women who make them. Our social Business programs seek to uplift women, their children and their communities.

"If you are reading this and do not know who made your clothes, you may be wearing the clothes I sewed as a child." 57

Despite running my own business, my family and my society still expected me to repeat the same cycle which my mom, my aunt and my sister did. They forcefully arranged my marriage with a man I had never met. However, the time had changed everything for me. I stood my ground and escaped the forced marriage after a 2month life and death struggle with the help of my worldwide friends, my teacher, my younger sister and my cousin. I became the first woman in the village history to escape a forced marriage. As a Gender Justice Advocate and Founder of Local Women's Handicrafts, what are your visions? In 2015, I visited America for the first time to speak at Aspire in Chicago. I saw over three hundred women come together and share their power, their leadership and their skills. I felt validated. While back home in Nepal, I had been fighting for the last ten years for women's rights, and I am still struggling. As I started to travel, I found inspiration, mentors, and so much support that it gave me so much energy and power to keep fighting. It inspired me to start Local Organization Comprised of Women Offering Mentorship (LOCWOM.org), a not for profit organization based in the United States of America that works to empower women and girls in disadvantaged and vulnerable communities living with poverty and trauma. LOCWOM USA raises funds and partners with organizations in Nepal and other countries to deliver projects that 58

work towards empowering, educating and mentoring disadvantaged women and girls. By providing safe spaces, sustainable vocational and entrepreneur skills training, education, mentoring, health care and resilience building we aim to provide opportunities to empower women and girls to build positive futures, and a life without poverty for themselves, their children and their community. We envision a world where women are empowered to be leaders in their communities and are

The Local Woman's Goals: Expand its Women's Entrepreneurial Empowerment model to train women in the Nepal poorest regions for economic sustainability. Establish a social business partnership with other International Business to sell our handmade products. Spread anti-sweatshop awareness and educate consumers about fair trade principles. Empower 10,000 marginalized women by 2020. in control of their own lives, their rights, make their own decisions and become advocates for improved human rights. LOCWOM aims for the development of 20 Empowerment Centers by 2040. Sweatshop labour, and its continued prevalence around the world. Comment. Slavery did not end with abolition in the 19th century. Instead, it changed its forms and continues to harm people in every country in the world. Whether they are women forced into prostitution, men forced to work in agriculture or construction, children in sweatshops or girls forced to marry older men, their lives are controlled by their exploiters; they no longer have a free choice, and they have to do as told.

They are in slavery. There are an estimated 40.3 million people in modern slavery around the world. Modern slavery includes slavery in the sweatshops, where people are forced to work long hours for paltry pay.

"Slavery did not end with abolition in the 19th century. Instead, it changed its forms and continues to harm people in every country in the world." Every individual has the right to freedom. However, in the context of sweatshops, people are still enslaved. They are forced to do the work which others are not willing to do. People employed at sweatshops don't know their rights. They are less educated. To eradicate this modern slavery in sweatshops, we must provide awareness about the rights of workers. Consumers must be aware of how their clothes are made, and they should be accountable. How the owners behave towards their employees must be transparent. How does the fashion industry promote sweatshop labour, and how is the industry accountable? How many of you know who made the clothes that you are wearing? You likely don't, and that is the problem. There is a

disconnect between the people who make the products and those who buy them. The average Americans buy 400 % more since the 1980s. Over 151 million child labourers and 40 million (80% of whom are women) garment workers around the world support the rapid consumption of products in the Western world. Garment worker's face long hours, malnutrition due to low wages, unprotected exposure to toxic chemicals, sexual harassment, discrimination, and forced overtimeâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; a systematic problem created every day. We are facing considerable disconnection and a lack of awareness with the source of manufacturer. Where and how does the problem of sweatshop begin in the garment industry? What measures should be taken to cure the "sweatshop" cancer? In 1946, Fair Trade got established that valued compassion, peacemaking, and service that included a spiritual component rather than financial gain. Throughout my experience, I have seen Fair Trade principles restore the human spirit through a sense of dignity and pride. Imagine what actual Fair Trade could do for the 7.3 billion souls living on this planet!

The principles of Fair Trade have the potential to heal mass suffering in the world while simultaneously offering an abundant and thriving system of global trade. Additionally, there is a growing market for conscious consumption. My experience as a child labourer opened my eyes to the individual, environmental, and societal damages incurred from corporations who prioritize higher profit margins over the quality of life of people in developing countries. Thankfully, conscious consumption is not only possible but profitable and impactful. When considering our larger societies and their economies, we are concerned with buying, selling, and competing with each other. It appears that we do not care about human rights or the environment. This statement is proven every time an American and European corporation moves production to a developing country to profit from their cheap labour and lax environmental laws. When the buyer negotiates with these manufacturers, they only discuss the product, quantity, price, and timeline, but they don't survey the production sites. If they did, they would have found my 9-

"When the buyer negotiates with these manufacturers, they only discuss the product, quantity, price, and timeline, but they don't survey the production sites. If they did, they would have found my 9-year old face in that unmarked building in Kathmandu." year old face in that unmarked building in Kathmandu. What do you want the Fashion industry to do and change to help alleviate sweatshop labour? I believe in the business of empowerment. I believe in empowering people to improve their own lives. We are creating opportunities to inform other factories that working under Fair Trade conditions is possible, that a living wage is possible, and that ethical trade is achievable. So, I ask for this call to action, laid out below, as it has the opportunity to ripple out into the world in an exponential capacity. This effect will challenge several facets of the existing global currency and trade system, but I promise you the rewards it will bring to the world will be far more valuable than a profit. 59

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I am asking you to trade: ฀ Corrupt production facilities FOR Working with disadvantaged producers ฀ Environmental pollution FOR Agreements to protect the earth ฀ Corporate Greed FOR Safe working conditions ฀ Child labourers FOR Equal workers' rights for all men & women ฀ Slave labour wages FOR Living wages ฀ Questionable business ethics FOR Transparent agreements of mutual profits

Talk about how sweatshop labour is gender-based and associated with discrimination and violence against women? Eighty percent of the world's garment workers are women and many faces unsafe and unethical working conditions. Inequality happens from the day a girl is born. Women are viewed differently. They are under the control of father, brother, husband and then the male-dominated society that the women work in–one oppression after another makes us silent because that is the only way to feel safe. Women's contribution to the sweatshop is always over-represented. Comment on how sweatshop systematically banks on women's gender disadvantage to minimize the costs of the essential industrial activities in distinct market segments? Most of the women who work for the sweatshops are already oppressed as a young girl, then as a wife and now as a worker, so the society from the very beginning design a system where women are considered a second citizen. It is very easy for the corporation and for our male-dominated society to make money out of silent women. The fashion industry has changed so much in the past few years, what's the best advice you would give for staying ahead of the curve and progressing in a positive route? People are waking up to reality. More and more people want to know the story behind the label. I would encourage people not to give their energy to the problem, but to the solution and what one can do as an individual. When you wake up in the morning, start asking questions, Does my toothbrush come from an ethical source? Are my clothes ethical? Try to support local handicrafts, if you can't then support ethical businesses or small businesses. Your actions will make a difference!■

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FORWARD Runway Report

VANCOUVER FASHION WEEK SOLIDIFIES ITSELF AS AN INTERNATIONAL STAGE FOR FASHION Fashion Week Report by Natasha Ramjohn

Vancouver Fashion Week was a whirlwind! Along with my fashionista gal pals, Janice Ronan, Director of PR at Fashion Foundry and Francie Fournier, founder of Fashion Winnipeg, we set out to get a taste of VFW. Over the week, we immersed ourselves in everything "fashion week." We hit the event in our #ootd, networked with designers and the VFW team, navigated meetings, and enriched ourselves with creativity. What impressed me most with VFW was its mix of award-winning designers from over 16 global fashion

capitals including Australia, France, Japan, Ukraine, Taiwan, Poland, to name a few. VFW, known for diversity, multiculturalism, and established and up-andcoming designers, kicked off its 33rd season, paying homage to the Squamish First Nation and indigenous designers. It showcased an array of local designers, some from across the country, as well as global designers, over seven days.

As producer and founder of VFW, Jamal Abdourahman, puts it, "At Vancouver Fashion Week, diversity is our greatest strength. We bring together the most incredible design talent from across Canada and around the world, presenting the most forward-thinking creative concepts to the industry. Fashion is a truly global phenomenon, and it's so inspiring to see such a strong mix of designers all under one roof here in Vancouver." Here is a brief highlight of a few of the designers that stood out.

I had the pleasure of meeting Japanese designer, Emi Jingu, such a humble, friendly woman. Jingu, balloon artist, introduced a new type of art to the fashion scene â&#x20AC;&#x201C; balloon fashion â&#x20AC;&#x201C; dresses created with balloons. For her, 'it's a "unique way to bring fashion to everyone." She captivated the audience with cocktail and minidresses in silver and gold tones, sleek hairstyles and glossy makeup in ashy tones, giving a chic, futuristic feel. 'Jingu's dresses featured peplum-styles, slim bodices, and flared skirts, highlighting her extraordinary talents.

Emi Jingu

Photo Filippo Fior / Imaxtree.com

Carmen Llaguno

63 Photo Filippo Fior / Imaxtree.com

The RadaStyle "Orbit of Time" collection by Belarusian designer, Tatsiana Sychova, is the most striking manifestation of modern style: relevance and quality, beauty and practicality, everyday life and exclusivity. From stunning floating dresses in silk and satin with ruffled sleeves and detailed waistlines, the collection was elegant yet sensual.

The RadaStyle

Photo Filippo Fior / Imaxtree.com

I also fell in love with Agatha Taras collection. Polish fashion designer and founder of Eklectic & Co., Agatha Taras, presented us with an array of classic and modern European styles yet with a touch of contemporary fashion eclecticism. Predominantly black and white, with high necklines and ruffled cuffs, her style is modest yet sleek and elegant. 'It's chic enough to be worn for a grand evening out yet some befitting the red carpet.

Eklectic & Co Photo Filippo Fior / Imaxtree.com

FORWARD Runway Report

Evan Clayton Photo Filippo Fior / Imaxtree.com

Vancouver based brand, Evan Clayton, did not disappoint as he exhibited his new collection, Lik Ehell, with energy, on a smoke-filled runway. With influence from medieval armour and combat gear, his collection featured short dresses with shoulder pads, crotchless trousers, and corsets accessorized with heavy metal belts and even a silver sword. Crimson and black dominated the collection.

Photo Filippo Fior / Imaxtree.com

Mel Elegance

Local designer, Chinese-Canadian, Melissa Yin of Mel Elegance presented ''Celestial'', a resort-wear collection. She brings a multicultural aesthetic and minimalist comfort to luxury resort-wear. Inspired by a summer spent in Alaska Delaney National Park, 'Melissa's designs were defined by flowing silhouettes and warm floral patterns in silk and linen. Rounding out the tone of the show were floor-length dresses in soft pinks and bright reds. Thoroughly accessorized, outfits completed with bright blue and pink straw beach bags.

Su Moda

Photo Filippo Fior / Imaxtree.com

Glaze Kohl

Photo Filippo Fior / Imaxtree.com

FORWARD Runway Report

Sorockolita

Photo Filippo Fior / Imaxtree.com

Russian designer, Viktoriya Stukalova, of Sorockolita, captivated the audience with her new, powerful, sexy collection, Black Wing. The collection offered a mixture of Gothic and Victorian theme, pairing corsets and ruffled neck bodice with skinny leather pants to give it a modern appeal. It was an assortment of Italian wool, cashmere, leather, silk, and cotton materials adorning jackets, evening and casual dresses, classic suits and trousers, primarily in black and white.

Ryan Li Photo Filippo Fior / Imaxtree.com

British Columbia based designer, Ryan Li, known for "Canadian made" and sharpfitting tailoring, showcased his award-winning collection, Redeem Your Soul. He was awarded, by Jamal Abdourahman, the prestigious Nancy Mak award (a scholarship that recognizes up-and-coming British Columbia based designers) which will allow him to showcase his collection at Amazon Fashion Week Tokyo with Global Fashion Collective. The influence of menswear in the women's pieces was evident through structured shoulders and slim but composed silhouettes, with deconstructed sleeves. His collection featured metallic fabrics, and daring,

Emelia

houndstooth prints with deep hues. 'Emelia's Swimwear, a Canadian brand by Emelie Hausler, friend and colleague, brought a feel of tropical beaches with her collection of luxury swimwear ranging from earthy tones to vibrant colours. Energetic and playful models worked the runway wearing flirtatious bikinis, interacting with each other and taking the spontaneous selfie. The reversible swimwear was interlaced with modest mesh inserts, playful zippers and feminine belts and braids, keeping each piece a balance between functional and stylish. The show finished with a

dazzling finale as the models strutted down the runway in head-turning bright fuschia pieces. Sunny's Bridal entertained the audience with a perfectly choreographed show, presenting "The Divine Feminine" collection as a private event. In support of feminism, models danced and sauntered down the runway holding placards displaying feminine messages as strong female anthems played in the background. The collection showcased extravagantly lavish, sparkling, jewelledembellished South Asian style dresses in colours ranging from pastels, florals, metallics, bold hues, and whites accented with silver sparkles. Styles included two-piece sets and one-piece A-line dresses with tassels, laces, fringes and flowing trains. In support of feminism, the collection embodied

Sunny's Bridal

Photo Filippo Fior / Imaxtree.com

It was undoubtedly a fashion-filled week. Whether Vancouver or Toronto, what these fashion weeks have in common is that they create a stage for talented local and international designers to reach global markets, fashion media, and industry buyers. They all serve as a gateway for the designers to explore more significant events such as London, Paris, Milan, and New York. It has, without a doubt, propelled and helped launch many talents.â&#x2013;

Photo Filippo Fior / Imaxtree.com

FORWARD Editorial

Into the Spotlight

Photographer Shayne Gray @shaynegrayphotography Model Kehli G @kehli_g Retoucher Abstraxion Retouch & Design @abstraxion_retouch Designer & Stylist Julia Welsh for Humility the Label @hvmility Hair & Makeup Kristen Foote Makeup and Hair @makeupbykristen

FORWARD Editorial

Photography is all about light. That's

true. The ability to use and manipulate light is an essential tool in any photographer’s arsenal. However, all too often darkness – the absence of light, is often overlooked because photographers pay a great deal of focus on the light. Many photographers either stay clear or completely rule out using hard light. However, photographer and videographer, Shayne Gray, a household name in Toronto fashion and beauty industry respected for his talent for visual experimentation think otherwise. He sees the beauty in that ugly little duckling called shadows. "Into the Spotlight" is a striking editorial capturing the play of light and shadow dynamically. In a statement about the series of photos, Gray says: “The idea behind the shoot was to aim for a look with hard, crisp, defined shadows to create a moody atmosphere.

Sometimes photographers can become obsessive with soft light, and even though we so often think of softer shadows as being more pleasing, it is the shadows that create interest and depth. Firstly, every time we take a photo, we compress three dimensions into just two, so shadows help us cheat the illusion of that third dimension back in. Secondly, the element of shadow play is there to inspire a bit of mystery that hopefully makes these worth a second look!” If you keep your eyes peeled to observe how light and darkness interact with each other in this frame, you might capture something magical. 73

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Diamonds and Strings

Photographer Karl M . LEE Model Danilsa Orteg Makeup Gisela Gomez

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FORWARD Social Reports

Sharleez Fashion Gala Hosted by Sharleez Foundation 6 March 2019

Photography Olga Hutsul @olgahutsulphotography

A fashionable night of creativity and philanthropy that brought together Fashion Designers and Industry Experts to raise funds towards Operation Smile Canada, and Breast Cancer Foundation. The night saw runway presentations of 2019 collection from top Canadian formal wear, bridal and couture designers. It was an interactive evening that gathered some of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coveted industry experts.

GREENWOOD STAKES The second installation 25 May 2019

Photography Olga Hutsul @olgahutsulphotography

Toronto's most fashionable event of the spring returned for its second year at the Woodbine Racetrack, brought to you by event producers Parade Agency and The Social Concierge. The afternoon saw over two thousand dapper gentlemen and stylish ladies break out their feathers, felt and sinamay while they donned the most over-the-top headwear made. From the wildly extravagant to the small but simple fascinators, see this year's Greenwood stakes fashion in photos.

FORWARD Social Reports

FORWARD's Winning Facinator Meghan Kraft @megaxtron wearing Millerner Coup de TÃªte @coup_de_tete

FORWARD Social Reports

Fashion Shoot Extravaganza 2 February 2019

Photography George Pimentel Photography

COPPS Productions Ltd. lead by the charismatic Marie Copps produced a one-of-a-kind experiential fashion event concept, Fashion Shoot Extravaganza (FSE). Notable guests including Grego Minot, Alicia McNamara, Vicky Milner, special guest Joan Kelley Walker, and more walked the red carpet.

Marie Copps, Founder of FSE

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Christine Cho

Nicole Servinis

L to R Mson Lyle, stylist @ Unique Stylings;Ugyen Wangmo, editor-in-chief @FORWARD

L to R Alicia McNamara, Svet Nikon Cherry

FORWARD Runway Report

International Fashion Encounter/ SuperModel Canada Search Finals 2019 24 May 2019

Photography Olga Hutsul @olgahutsulphotography

8th Edition of International Fashion Encounter gathered together international designers from all over the globe. While the top 50 SuperModel Canada finalists walked the runway in the designs of the featured designers. It was a fashionable encounter of talent, collaboration, and achievement. The crowning of title winners Female/Male Supermodel Canada 2019 capped the night.

SuperModel Canada 2019-Male: Tyler Liboiron

Sergio Tirado-MEXICO

SuperModel Canada 2019-Female : Azra Sljiva

Sergio Tirado-MEXICO

Tabassum Mughal Official - PAKISTAN

Sergio Tirado-MEXICO

FORWARD Editorial

The Masquerade De La Vie

Photography Olga Hutsul @olgahutsulphotography Model Nathan Hardy @nmodelh Kelsey Biddiscombe @iddybiddyentrepreneur Accessory designer Marie copps @mariecopps Stylist Alona Davelman @fashionstylist_alona.davelman Makeup Veta Leiserovich @vetaleiserovich 96

Photographer, Olga Hutsul crosses the border between reality and fiction while she gets creative and uses fantasy to bring the beautiful mystique of accessory designer, Marie Copps creations to life.

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MC2: the beauty brand that chemistry built 100

101 Photography Max Abadian @maxabadian

FORWARD Feature

ELANI CHONG, the beauty with brains is no stranger to the beauty and fashion industry. She's made a name for herself in the fashion, beauty and marketing industries over the past 25 years, and amassed a network spanning the globe. An international model, media host/ spokesperson, marketing expert, and a cosmetic chemist, Chong is a unique hybrid who not only knows the science behind the beauty but is also the beauty of the science, who has worked on the other side of it by being in front of the camera. "Beauty is an effortless yet powerful quality that stands out when a person or thing has found its singular and collected purpose and

place in the world. It is in accepting one's particular imperfections and utilizing it as a superpower, super beauty," defines Melani Chong. Chong is way ahead of her own game. She is the founder of MC2Industries Inc a parent company consisting of Melani Beauty, a cosmetic formulating company and Analog Sci, a boutique firm of R&D chemists and scientists who specialize in cosmetics, topicals, formulating and also with pharmaceutical lab practitioners, including cannabis scientists. Get some exclusive insights from Melanie Chong on how she bottles your perfect skin in the M bottle.

About MC2 Industries. MC2Industries Inc. started as a small privately owned micro-manufacturer of cosmetics, beauty, personal care products and fragrance house. MC2 Industries is now a parent company that leverages scientific innovations in the cosmetic and biotech industries though it's subsidiaries Melani Beauty and Analog Sci. As a service, Analog Sci performs R&D, designs, manufactures biotech products for cosmetics. Melani Beauty is an innovation hub for beauty brands and products, providing R&D, consultation and product development for consumer products, home and personal care amenities, organic and anti-ageing product lines, flavours, fragrances and fragranced products for an international clientele. Photography Erwin Leowen @erwinloewen 102

What made you start MC2.

What is your Brand philosophy?

After I was pregnant with my first son, I felt the need to create a business outside of my modelling career. I started with a simple, skincare line. After the encouragement of my lab scientist and mentor, I created a more sophisticated collection of products. The chemistry and development all came very easily to me, and I found myself in the consulting field very quickly just after months in the business. Now, we have several international brands, many luxury brands and some key global chemical distributors for which we consult and design innovations.

As a brand, I believe that we "Hold the hand that feeds." Formulating and the appeals to the sensory virtuosities is an art for which I have great respect and passion. Leveraging unique materials that have a deep story, and through their marketing, a strong economy is built and sustained. From farm to home, there is an infrastructure of enterprises that binds usâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;as a consultant for raw materials sector and brand designer; This is a practice I apply to my product development, formulating and corporate practices as well. What are the most popular Melani Chong beauty products? The anti-ageing serum. Beautifully scented beauty oils that have adaptogenic properties is a hot travel necessity.

MC2, what is in the name? "Why, MC2? "When I started my modelling career with IMG management and Ford Models, New York, I was given a computer code for accounting purposes. This coding system consisted of our first and last initials and a number sequence that identified our business account within the agency. I was MC2, the second 'MC' in the Canadian branch. I had to scribe MC2 on all of my invoices and agreements and in turn, MC2 was 20 years of cheques and ledgers around the fashion world. As good personnel do, models' Check-in' with their agent every day to get updates and booking for the upcoming days. Our extensive schedules were filed under our codes. "Hello, this is MC2, where am I going tomorrow?" â&#x20AC;&#x201C;This process went on for 25 busy and exciting years in the industry. I was ubiquitously known as MC2 or MC everywhere I worked. Voila, MC2, MC, Mac, now known as just M, became my brand."

Which element of your job do you most enjoy?

I love the experimental side of creating, inventing and collaborating.

Talk about the sourcing of ingredients by MC2. Ethical resources have been a regular practice in cosmetics for decades. It is the leading companies that set the standards for harvest and trade procedures. When we engage in an ethical method, we inherit a responsibility to the framers, their fair wages, crop sustainability, and local future market growth.

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Photography Max Abadian @maxabadian

How would you sum up your brand in two sentences? Melani Beauty is a company that designs thoughtful, streamlined prestige products that complement and enhance a clean and green busy pace of life; and use up-trending ingredients that dare the mainstream. Functional, sophisticated, quiet luxury!

Challenges? How do MC2 overcome the hurdles? Growth is growth. It is a mantra that I mentally sustain to overcome slow periods.

You say that "there is science in beauty, and there is beauty in science." Elaborate. The beauty business hinges on the development of science and science provide opportunities for cosmetic wellness and beauty innovation through the use of unique and aesthetically pleasing experiences with cosmetic products and cosmetic tools. Product developers use molecular science, algorithms, engineering, psychology and sociology to create these great products and experiences. All of these discoveries and uniquely created have been born of a unique occurrence in nature, and we are lucky to be benefiting from its essence.

Some tips and skin care advice? Use natural, simple, yet multifunctioning products made with green science, staying active is a key to healthy skin and good circulation. Don't use old products or makeup. Detox your skin by removing daily environmental pollutants with a mild cleanser and serum. Your beauty routine? I am a simple utilitarian skin care type. I start with washing my skin with the Melani Glacial Clay Cleanser; while my skin is slightly damp, I apply one drop of the Longevity Serum over my face and neck and allow it to soak in and dry. To be followed by UV-Pro sunscreen, either the oil under my UV-Pro makeup or the UV-Pro sports cream, according to the day. I repeat this routine at night (minus the sunscreen), but I use a serum that meets my current daily needs for hydration and detoxifying like the Mogu Serum or Luminae Serum, and sometimes I use the Beauty Balm for sensitive areas. Multifunctioning and 'intuitive' skin products of Melanie Beauty keep my skin wrinkle-free and toxin-free. I look very young for my age and have no problems with my skin as I age gracefully!â&#x2013;

What significant change would you like to see in the Cosmetics industry? I would like to see Canada as a leader in the global cosmetics landscape, more innovation and creative applications that provide robust solutions for consumer personal care products for the whole family.

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B E Y O N D

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B O U N D A R I E S

Photography Fynn Badgley @fynn_badgley Stylist Mason Lyle @unique Stylings Model Fady Zablouk @fady_zablouk Makeup Olive Grey @olivesque

All clothes from Nordstrom Blue Jacket Marc Jacobs

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All clothes from Nordstrom The sunglasses Thom Browne from spectacle @spectaclelovesu

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FORWARD Editorial

The Spring Moon and California MoonRise

Fashion shoots often forget one essential aspect–to show fashion pieces as used in real situations and settings. Phortographer Olga Hutsul bring to play the Multi-coloured crystals and beads which are interwoven artfully with metalwork–one of a kind accessory design by Spring Moon –ornamentalize the California Moonrise summer casual wear collection to give life to daily wear.

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Photography Olga Hutsul olgahutsulphotography Designer California MoonRise @californiamoonrise Accessories The Spring Moon @thespringmoon Makeup Helen Kats @MakeupFit Models Marta Kruk; Cheyenne Mcneil @Cheyennemcneil

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KARMA IS A B*TCH

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THE PEARL CONNECTION From Pearl to Pearl By Monica Frangulea

Photography Koko Tchorbadjian Model Honey Benjamin Hair & Makeup Marisa Tipkanok Stylist Monica Frangulea

Above Necklace Michelle Ross; Earrings Musesa; Bracelet Musesa; Rings Musesa; Chain-mail Top Chain Attractions Left Necklace Alan Anderson; Earrings Michelle Ross; Bracelet Musesa; Ring : Victory of the People; Chain-mail Top Chain Attractions PEARL Ring detail Claudio Pino

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Opposite page Necklaces Matsu Jewellery; Earrings Musesa; Bracelet Alan Anderson; Ring Victory of the People; Chain-mail Top Chain Attractions Current page Necklace Musesa; Earrings Musesa; Bracelet Matsu Jewellery; Ring Valentine Rouge; Chain-mail Top Chain Attractions

THE PEARL: one of the most incredible creations of nature. A shiny bead of incredible depth and character, from such pure particles of earth. All it takes is an oyster and a spec of sand or shell to create these stunning jewels. For this special FORWARD FASHION issue, we have reached out to some of the best Canadian jewelry designers and requested them to bring for this photo editorial their favourite pieces with pearls from their last collection. Such an unprecedented collaboration inside the industry is showing us that today, as always in history, pearls are in trend and can be matched with any outfit and occasion. "I am often using pearls in my designs because of their softness, delicacy, and preciousness. They are unique and evoke their poetry and story. I use them to give homage to the oceans and give tribute to their natural characteristics in my design." says jewelry designer Claudio Pino, whose amazing contemporary ring designs never stop to amaze us. "I love working with pearls whimsically to create enduring glamour that is soft, feminine and chic," says designer Jenna Iannelli of Valentine Rouge Jewellery."

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Current page Above Necklace Michelle Ross; Earrings Victory of the People; Bracelet Musesa; Ring Musesa; Chain-mail Top Chain Attractions Left Necklaces Valentine Rouge; Earrings Michelle Ross; Bracelet Musesa; Ring Musesa; Chain-mail Top Chain Attractions Opposite Page Necklace Musesa; Earrings Valentine Rouge; Bracelet Musesa; Ring Musesa; Chain-mail Top Chain Attractions 125

PRADON SILKS reflects the five elements of life

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The Indian fashion

industry has positioned its uniqueness in the western fashion world due to its exclusivity of its homeland with its rich history and culture. Indian fashion designers bring a flavour to the west that is no longer perceived as only exotic but also a vibrant blend of authenticity and traditions. Pradon Silks is a fashion boutique in Toronto offering a range of unique and authentic styles of women's attires from various parts of India that specializes in specific fabric and designs. Pradon Silks sees a model in every woman. Since its inception, Pradon Silks has promoted its collection annually by planning and executing creative fashion presentations on the runway. This year the girls and women from all walks of life took the runway to

showcase Pradon's collections. It was representative of the rich diversity of Toronto and reflected women of various culture, ethnicity, colour, sizes, and ages. "Every year, Pradon Silks tells the story of fashion and styles through a theme that is unique to the origins of its rich culture. This year, the campaign shoots represented the Spectacles of Seasons of India. India's rich traditions are blended with its six seasons such as Spring, Summer, Monsoon, Autumn, Pre Winter & Winter, and the elements of these seasons is reflected in the shoot with utmost creativity and style." Owner of Pradon Silks, Sumi Prabaharan.

Photography: Olga Hutsul Clothing: Pradon Silks Stylist: Sumi Praba @sumipraba1 Decor:Tanusha Siva Models: Shankri Fabian @shea_fabu Tyson Lamb @tysonlambentre Kelechi Ofoha @kelechiofoha Jamie Hart @telltale.heart Hair and Makeup: Inthu Mathan @inthu_imsikhairbeautystudio Andrea Jayashankar @touchofandy Venue sponsor: The Venetian Banquet Hall

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FORWARD Editorial

ANAVI DESIGNS handcrafting one bag at a time

Photography Melissa Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Souza @msmdsouza Designer Ivana Walker @anavidesigns Models Ben LeFevre @benjfever Jamie Steranka @jamiepage10 Stylist Sergio El-Azzi @tuxedosergio Makeup Julia Dantas @juliadantasbeauty

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Hand crafted to define your personal style

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Express who you are

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ANAVI DESIGNS

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ANAVI DESIGNS

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A unique bag to fully embody who you are

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FORWARD around the globe

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Photography ChĂŠrine Shiha

New Jersey Turkey

Egypt

Ottawa Paris

Illinois

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FORWARD Around the World

WHO IS THAT GIRL? French model and digital influencer, Gaby Guha plays the game of contrast in her favourite looks from For the Love of MU, the DARZHA Collection, by a new couture designer based in Paris. Harmony of nude and bright colours; Balance in the smoothness of fabric by a strong texture.

Photographer Sams Arifin @sams_arifin_paris Designer Darzha @_darzha_ Model Gaby Guha (DMA Models Paris) @gabyguha Style Beauty Vintage stylist @beautyvintagestylist Makeup & Hair Ophe Ě lie Chambers @opheliechambers_mua 140

PARIS

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NEW JERSEY

BRAVE THE ELEMENTS Photography: karl lee @karl08701 Model: Nyasia Sade @Iamnyasiasade Makeup artist: Corrine Morgan @_splashofbeauty_ Designer: Tony Martinez @Martinezxxl

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NEW JERSEY

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Wardrobe Cindyfashion Boutique 151

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ILLINOIS

This Page: Dress EXPRESS. Shoes EXPRESS. Earrings VINTAGE Opposite Page: Top WHITE HOUSE BLACK MARKET Cosmetics LAURA MERCIER

A Week in the Life Featuring Nikki Ilendo

Photographer/Creative Director Tracy Whiteside @whitesidetracy Model Nikki Ilendo @nikki6ilendo Hair and Makeup Ren Alexandra @beautybyren24

Photographer Tracy Whiteside was inspired by the fact that even though there are many beautiful fashion magazines available, there aren't enough real examples of everyday women on how to dress. "Most of us can't wear bright pink eye shadow or purple latex bodysuits to work. Fashion magazines are great eye candy; however, what do real women wear in real life? How can a woman look

put together and fashionable without spending a fortune?". This editorial shows the model, Nikki Ilendo, in work-appropriate clothing, hair and makeup. She attends a dressy work function wearing a full skirt. However, on the weekends, Nikki can let loose and be as glam or bare as she wants to be. This is the story of Nikki in real life, the story of every woman. 155

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Top & Skirt White House Black Market Shoes DSW

All Apparel EXPRESS Shoes DSW Jewelry VINTAGE 156 Dress Forever 21

Dress Forever 21

FORWARD Special

"We would love to put an end to genderbased/priced haircuts in our industry so that everyone, regardless of how they identify feel included and welcomed." In brief, this is how it all startedâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; "I cut a transgender woman's hair. After the haircut she tweeted to my salon, that was the first time she ever had a haircut and felt like a woman. She was 35 years old then and had been out as a transgender woman for five years. I thought it was terrible that she had never before experienced the joy of receiving a haircut that made her happy. I recognized this was a major gap, and I knew a change needed to happen in my industry."

All images provided by The Dress Code Project

The Dresscode Project is an alliance of salons providing safe spaces for the Dress Forever 21 LGBTQ community. DCP is Creating awareness, education and a safer environment within the beauty industry for the LGBTQ+ community. They fund education and advocacy for marginalized communities to make sure the folks who identify within the trans, transgender, gender nonconforming, non-binary and queer community get equal access to services within the beauty industry and to get their haircut without feeling misgendered. "Gender nonconforming haircuts don't describe to folks in terms of a "men's or women's cut" but rather by length or haircut characteristicsâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;such as texture, layers, and the rest," says the founder of the Dress code project, Kristin Rankin.

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BLAZE Photography Garry Black @garryblack77 Makeup artist Nesserine Haidar @nessbeautymakeover Model Kate Blaze @kateblazepurefire Designer Semiha Cantas @cantasfashion

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OTTAWA

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TURKEY

Portrait of a Modern Woman

Photography Alina Kvitka @kvitka.photography Model Margarita Mert @kurnosiha Makeup artist Nadia Garkusha @mrsnadbka

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Dress ZARA

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Coat SISLEY Top ZARA Pants BATIC Shoes INCI Earrings ZARA

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THE PARISIAN DIGITAL GIRL Photography Sams Arifin @sams_arifin_paris Model Gaby Guha (DMA Models Paris) @gabyguha Stylist Beauty Vintage stylist @beautyvintagestylist Makeup & Hair Chloe Courtier chloecourtier_mua

Dress The Uranie by Moira Cristescu; Boots Stuart Weitzman; Bag Michael Kors; Earring Marina de Kent 166

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Top « Me ́tope by Moira Cristescu Shorts « Lysippe ́ » by Moira Cristescu Platform heels Jeffrey Campbell Bag : « Saddle bag », Dior Vintage (Vestiaire collective) 167

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Dress « The Ple ́onasme », Moira Cristescu Earrings Tophills (LAB created Diamond Jewelry) Undergarment Agent Provocateur

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Dress « The Nike ́ » , Moira Cristescu Earrings Swarovski Shoes Yeezy Season 2 170

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Dress Immortel Couture Paris Boots Guiseppe Zanotti Earrings Oscar De La Renta

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Bodysuit L’Immortel Couture Paris Shorts « The Lysippe ́ », Moira Cristescu Heels Louboutin Bag « Saddle bag », Dior Vintage (Vestiaire collective) Sunglasses Persol

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FORWARD Vision Interview

CREATIVE VISION –

To sell or not to sell, that is the question. Fashion remains mostly to be a creatively driven

"art." The fashion sector is also one of the largest industries in the global economy that sees the transformation at a faster pace than ever.

The advent of the internet–the confluence of data, storage, and algorithms–has disrupted traditional models of ownership in fashion. Customers want to own, and change, at lightning speed; the need to act fast and get ahead of the competition has never been more critical. Fashion ecosystem looks all too much like fast fashion–the need to be fresh and changing at the same speed as the consumer demands. Designers must keep pushing boundaries and creating new collections. However, they must do so while operating a business. To accommodate industrial demands and financial prudence, the industry requires the artists to compromise the values and vision that are essential parts of their artistic identities. When fashion business prefers

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to maintain artistic integrity and revere in ideational, visual qualities, of the piece being produced they risk gambling with practical concerns such as budgets, maintaining efficiency, and responding to market demands.

How can Business imperatives coexist with creativity and unique vision daily? It requires a balance– between rational thought, which is attentive to the demands of the external world and imaginative thinking, which is attentive to the requirements of personal needs. FORWARD explore the challenge of balancing creativity and commercial constraint; the creativity/vision as dictated by data. We asked Marilyn McNeil-Morin, director of fashion exchanges at the George Brown College school of fashion studies to share her knowledge on the great divide between creative vision and commercial reality of an artist which she thinks is challenging, yet necessary.

OLGA HUTSUL PHOTOGRAPHY.COM

How would you define the current status of the global fashion system? In Transition. It is moving from a fast fashion model to a more sustainable model â&#x20AC;&#x201C;where value, longevity, quality, artisanal skills, customization, sustainability, fit, and ethics become (more) important. Quality over quantity. It's no longer OK for fashion to be wasteful and disposable. The slow trend has emerged, with local production, onshoring or reshoring emerging to transform the supply chain. Besides, the retail supply chain is also changing with B2C (business direct to consumer) online shopping challenging traditional retail to adapt to an omnichannel online presence.

Photography: karl lee @karl08701 Model: Sailor Anderson @SailorAndersonModeling Designer: Orlando Caquias @designer_orlandocaquias

And this is what Marilyn McNeil-Morin has to say: Define creativity? Creativity is the response to the status quo, to change how anything is already being done; to create a new form of expression. It can occur in any endeavour, and is not just about changing a hemline, how wide is the pant leg, or how we accessorize. Creativity is taking from all the influences, visualizing something that is fresh and adjusting our perception to make something new. Typically, creativity is incremental with subtle changes over time that evolve rather than a drastic change. Think of any style and how that emerged over a period of time to become the norm, and then disappeared as new incremental changes slowly adjusted the style over the next period. Also, think of other products such as the cell phone and how they evolved from a large clunky, one function phone to a much smaller device with multiple functions that it is today. All changes occurred gradually, one refinement at a time, pushed by competition to improve to stay in the game.

What does it take, or how can we survive the current fashion system, which also seems to be overcrowded. As in any other industry, there will be competitionâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; this is normal and a necessary part of doing business. Having a monopoly never brings the best in any industry, and would lead to complacency, lack of concern for the product or the consumer interest, and eventually to higher prices â&#x20AC;&#x201D; economics 101. Competition does bring checks and balances to the economy and fashion is a business, never forget that. It's an exciting time to be in fashion with the emergence of many smaller brands which can be nimble and engage with their customers online and to reach a global audience for the first time.

Noelzinia VFW 2019

Photo Filippo Fior / Imaxtree.com

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FORWARD Vision Interview The fashion industry is product-driven, and sales focused first. Comment. That's right, and that's OK. You can be as creative as you want, but if no one wants what you have, why are you in this business? You have to know your customer and produce something that they want to survive. Understanding your unique value proposition and how you are different from any other brand is vital. What do you do better than anyone else? Why should people care about your brand? Give your customers something compelling, engaging, provide value, and they will respond positively with their social media likes, their wallets and their loyalty. Where do you think that put the value of artistic creativity? It's not easy to be able to anticipate what will resonate with customers continually and to be able to innovate and provide the newness that fashion consumers want. It takes great artistic creativity to meet this expectation of fashion continuously. Finding ways to be fresh, new, exciting, to use new textiles, to find new ways to embellish, to alter silhouette just enough to be wearable is a tricky problem. Couple this with the innovation in business that is needed to navigate marketing, providing experience for customers and stay ahead of the competition; this is no place for the status quo. Do you think the current system has already abandoned or is it abandoning or leading it down that path to abandon the artistry and creative elements that fashion professionals spent years to hone? Alternatively, do you think the system of fashion has not yet left the art and creative elements? Please justify your response. Fast fashion was one of the biggest threats to creativity and artistry. Cheap copies of great designs were marketed all over the world in record short periods. You could go to a shopping mall in any place in the world and see the same brands with the same clothing. This led to a frenzy of faster and faster change to bring something new to the market and made fashion feel more and more like a treadmill with contradictory messages of what was on trend. The emergence of an interest in slow fashion, with more emphasis on lasting value, to more individual expression of style and to care for the environmental and ethical footprint fashion represents provides an opportunity to respond to these changes with new forms of creativity. Examples of this 178

are designs that embrace artisanal elements, use of technology (laser cutting, dye sublimation printing to scale, 3D printing, or on demand mass customization), and sustainable production. Now is a time creativity is needed and welcomed to meet all of these challenges. Does "commercially-driven mentality of fashion" question the importance of true artistic creativity? No. Fashion has always been and is still a business that relies on creativity. Those who recognize this, and who produce fashion that excites their clientele will succeed. There is a balance here. Both are necessary. Designers who do not respect their client will lose their market. Designers who are stale will also lose their market. Fashion is a difficult business, it takes vision and courage to innovate continually, but there is always the requirement to have a return on investment. It is no different from any other enterprise that is inherently creative, such as music, dance, or art. Even in industries that are not typically considered creative, the buzzword is "innovation," and it is recognized as essential to compete and thrive. Could creativity in fashion regain its value when the importance of money has taken precedence? Fashion needs to be creative, or it's no longer relevant. Shoppers want something new when they shop for fashion; this desire for newness drives fashion. The designers who are creative and bring innovation provide the excitement needed to evolve fashion; yet are not so far ahead that they alienate their customer. How can we find ways to ensure that vision and creativity is at the centre of the fashion design process, driving profitability through creativity rather than in spite of it? It happens naturally and does not have to be forced. Consumers vote with their wallets. The desire for newness ensures that fashion designers who deliver creative designs which are desired and wanted will succeed. Creativity for creativity's sakeâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;if it isn't needed or wantedâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;doesn't succeed. I've seen runway fashions that are only meant to provoke or shock, never worn anywhere else. It might generate some buzz for the designer but won't translate to lasting brand value. Again, it's a delicate balance.

Photography: karl lee @karl08701 Model: Katie Mcdonald @KatieMcDonaldModeling Designer: Orlando Caquias @designer_orlandocaquias

Do you think control imposed on creativity will have a positive impact of providing the necessary structure to convert creativity into value; or negative which inhibit the intrinsic motivation that is needed to perform creative activities? Control imposed might be helpful or harmful. Ultimately monitor may support market success by adjusting the design to fit reality. Alternatively, it might hinder the continuing evolution needed for fashion to stay relevant. It's finding a balance that works that is difficult yet essential. Fashion is not an easy business, and artistic expression has to coexist with business realities, to succeed.â&#x2013;

Consumer data has become essential to connect with the consumer or understand what the audience wants. How can one balance the artistic process of creating what inspires the artist versus creating what is going to be sold? Is there a solution or ways to use data without sacrificing creativity? Consumer data is a picture of what has been and is not necessarily a predictor of what will be. It can only take a designer to a level of knowledge of what was accepted and received. Some measure of vision and instinct are needed to push boundaries or current sensibilities of what is in style to the next step. Because innovation is typically a gradual evolution, use of data can play a role, but the spark for newness is needed to evoke freshness and entice the consumer to buy. How to balance the artistic vision and commercial viability? Do not be a follower. Understand their brand DNA, understand their customer and what unique qualities they bring to the table and be true to this.

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FORWARD Feature

AUTHENTIQUE: Empowering Women

Authentique adjective Genuine; Representing one’s true nature or beliefs.

The Founder of Authentique, Nada Marzouk at Vancouver Fashion Week Spring /Summer 2019

Authentique may only be under a year old, but this e-commerce fashion brand has already garnered quite a reputation. The brand made her debut at Vancouver Fashion Week Spring /Summer 2019 and took the stage by storm.

empower the women to connect and share their story. Behind the creation of each product, there is a story and a talented, young woman. This is the base for everything I do and what inspired me to build Authentique.” The Founder of Authentique, Nada Marzouk.

Connecting luxurious Egyptian and Canadian women brands to share their story online through revolutionary technology, Authentique has redefined the fashion as we know it.

Canadian based and of Egyptian origin, forces of Nada Marzouk’s passion for fashion, goodwill of the women, and her expertise in digital media come together in her brand. As a child, she experienced quizzical reactions to her unique pieces that represented her heritage. Seeing that the talent and creativity of those young Egyptian women designers were unexplored, Marzouk created a platform for them to communicate their creative expression at a larger

“Authentique is diverse, modern and rich of talented women, like Canada and Egypt– the two countries from where we 180

Photo Filippo Fior / Imaxtree.com

stage. By bridging the gap between North American and Egyptian heritage, it breaks free from the stereotypical vision of Egypt as nothing more than a sandy beige region, says Marzouk.

The current roster of Emerging Canadian and Egyptian Designers include: Claurete Jewelry, Farah Wagdy, RAMLA, MayaEco, S.A.D.A.F.A, Omi Woods, Chevron, and LalabySZ.

Authentique not only connects the designers but it also connects the customers to a wide assortment of distinct, quality-statement pieces through the concept of a virtual-styling and 3D virtual fitting room. The revolutionary technology allows consumers to see a simulated version of themselves that considers their body shape, size and weight– it provides the best online shopping experience in the online fashion world. The Authentique brand has, from its very conception, also been a very personal proposition for Marzouk, empowering young women designer while also supporting women’s entrepreneurship. She is also actively involved with various orphanages and girls’ programs and teaches a recurring educational Fashion workshop in Egypt, intended to help girls develop both their skills and confidence. Through philanthropy and social responsibility activities, the brand gives back to the underprivileged young girls and orphans in Egypt.

Photo Filippo Fior / Imaxtree.com

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EGYPT

The Divine Adoratrice featuring the “Authentique Girl”

Photography Chérine Shiha @cherineshiha Makeup Habiba Kasrawy @habibakasrawymua Fashion Coordinator Hanna T. Shannon @hannashannon_ Models Nuha Orbab @nuhaorbann Sara Karem Rakha@sarakrakha Styling AUTHENTIQUE @shopauthentique.co

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Current Page: Bustier Danoush @danoushdesigns Slitted Skirt Danoush @danoushdesigns Jacket Canvas Label Jewelry Lala @lalabysz Opposite Page: Asymmertrical Jumpsuit Danoush @danoushdesigns Jewelry LalabySZ @lalabysz

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This Page ORO Blazer Farah Wagdy @farahwagdyofficial Jewelry Lala @lalabysz Opposite Page VERNICE Blazer Farah Wagdy @farahwagdyofficial Jewelry LalabySZ@lalabysz

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Bustier Danoush @danoushdesigns Jewelry LalabySZ @lalabysz

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FORWARD Interview

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THE HOUSE OF SASS & MAGIC: An Interview with Designer Stacey Gonder Photographer Paul Steward @Paul_Francs Makeup Ayoung Park @ayoungpark Creative Director Stacey Gonder @HouseSMtdot Designer Stacey Gonder @HouseSMtdot Models Mars Alexander @smorezz_ Ruby Rea @rubyrea.model Ms.Madge Enthat @madgeenthat Miss DivaLicious @divaliciousptbo XOLOVEBO @xolovebo

Founder and designer of The House of Sass & Magic, Stacey Gonder 189

Stacey Gonder is the founder and designer of The House of Sass & Magic, an inclusive brand that empowers individuality. From Pontypool, Victoria County, Toronto based Gondor’s background in both dance and costume design come together to create a brand that awakens the sass and magic inside of us. Gonder has held an interest in dance and fashion her whole life. While she started to pursue dance at a young age, it was not until after quarter century of experience as a dance instructor and professional performer that she cultivated her love of costuming. After graduating from International Academy of Design, with a focus on costume studies in 2001, she launched her first endeavour – Flash Design Company, a custom dance costuming house that designs and manufactures costumes for competitive dancers. For 14 years Gonder

embraced the dance land and mastered the skills for costumes creation–excellent construction, comfort and function for the stage– while honing the skills to embody her creative vision in her designs. But her passion and talent for costuming travelled beyond the dance land. In 2013, The House of Sass & Magic was created out of the combination of her love for electronic music festivals and her love of costuming. “The environment of festivals is one that resonates with my belief that we can express ourselves via clothing. My older brother is a drag performer, and this allowed me to create for his drag character as well as his peers.” The brand is truly a culmination of the parts of Gonder’s life that have been influential–her passion for dance and costuming, years of experience in the creative world, and her belief that wardrobe is an extension of the personality. The brand The House of Sass & Magic. Brief background.

The House of Sass & Magic is an inclusive brand

that empowers you to celebrate your individuality

and express your true self. We all have the sass and magic inside of us; and in a world where it can be

challenging to live outside the standardized norms, The House of Sass & Magic’s designs are there to

help you shine✨. We believe that "The Future is Everybody"–many of our garments are designed

with gender fluidity in mind because we know that

each human is unique. All garments are handmade with love in Toronto, Canada.

The House SM brings fantasies to life. With specialization in one-of-a-kind, short-run and limited edition expression-wear for all people the brand is fiercely passionate about celebrating individuality, self-expression and authenticity. This ethos inspires House SM to create garments that reflect the wildest, most glamorous dreams of the creator as well as the clients.

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How would you describe the ethos of the brand? It is important to me that The House of Sass and Magic promote ideals surrounding individuality, self-expression, authenticity and advocate for the LGBTQ+ communities as well as human rights as a whole. I design for all genders and non-binary alike. HouseSM contributes to sustainability and upcycling by giving new life to existing garments, as well as using byproduct/leftover fabrics from its sibling company, Flash Design Company, and this embodies it’s “zero waste” philosophy.

"We all have the sass and magic inside of us; and in a world

where it can be challenging to live outside the standardized norms, The House of Sass &

Magic’s designs are there to help you shine✨."

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What inspires the designs, and whom do you envision as the “HouseSM muse”?

I draw a lot of inspiration from my experience in stage performance. There is also quite a bit of influence from festival culture and old school raving. I’m a big fan of what I refer to as Boho Glam. It’s a little bit city with a touch of whimsy. I can’t lie, I’m drawn to dramatic, bold & pretty all at the same time! I love Japanese streetwear, but I also love a solid steampunk silhouette. The words “ish” and “esque” are used frequently in my design process. Anyone that lives outside the box or has a perspective on the world that deviates from the standardized norms find magic in The House SM.

What do you most love about creating HouseSM?

The opportunity to create experiences through clothing is incredible. The excitement from seeing others enjoying The House of Sass & Magic is the magic.

Has your vision changed or evolved since the brand’s original conception? If so, in what ways?

The brand has matured, in my opinion. It has come to know itself. The brand’s initial focus was on the creation of the clothing. Within the first year, I came to realize that it’s about so much more. The vision was much more general in the beginning. It 192

used to be “cool clothing for cool people.” I soon became aware of the “who” that gravitated towards the brand and how they aligned with how my perspective of the world is. It made sense to focus and give attention to the people who organically connected to the core of the brand. Now it is an alternative to the mainstream standards imposed on us all. It is a way of life. It is a perspective on life. As cliche as it is, it aims to be a part of the change I’d like to see in the world.

Are the designs driven by your interpretation of the Brand’s vision, or is the design process compromised by commercial needs/business imperatives. Please explain.

A lifetime ago while studying Dance at York University, we were told that while creating/ choreographing dance pieces the concepts shouldn’t alienate the viewer. We were at that time talking primarily about modern dance–the concepts in the choreography needed to be relatable to the person watching. I distinctly remember hearing “be obscure but not too obscure.” This lesson has stuck with me during my creative process. Hinderance or gift? I’m not entirely sure. Fast forward to an article I read recently written by Felix Thea for the Shopify Blog; it said that you could be unique but not too unique. I beg to differ while my thoughts and practices are… be as unique as you want to be! And that transcends into my designs professionally. From a business perspective I understand the concept of being

appealing to “everyone” however, I don’t need “everyone” to like or want the brand. Those that connect, understand or need the brand will do just fine.

How true can you stay to your “vision of creativity” while designing your collections?

Super true. The beauty of the custom work is that it gives the client exactly what they desire, and we arrive at that together. It’s an adventure that ends with a product that is just what we dreamt up!

How would you describe the translation of the vision you have prior to the design into what we see in the market?

We are in a position where we build all the items on site and in turn sell them direct to the consumer. Therefore the translation is

literal. What we design is what you get! However, we have had our designs appear in photo shoots and stage shows. There have been stylists that have used the clothing in ways that were not the original intention or vision. I have absolutely no issue with that, again, it created an experience for the stylist, model, photographer that was unique to them and that is fantastic. The original tone, mood, and emotion that motivated the original design are captured in the instances when the items are used uniquely.

What are the factors that constrain the performance of creative work?

I have been very fortunate that I’ve existed in a creative space both personally and professionally for as long as I can remember. I have instinctually found a way to maintain my creativity in spite of constraints. My experience in dance costuming has leant to an ability to work within budgets, other individuals visions and deadlines. Life itself is about creating opportunities, strategies and executing them, so we’re building our reality with every given moment.

How do you balance creativity with commerce? How do you marry the art of style with the business of fashion?

We are a very niche brand, and we don’t mass produce any of our items. However, the way our society has structured the path to financial gain in the industry is in “sheer volume.” I consciously remind myself that we do not appeal to the masses and therefore need to stay connected to the public on a much more personal level. We are a "personal brand." We attend and vend at festivals selling on-site and creating custom pieces for attendees. We find our success through person to person transaction.

Where do you think fashion is at the moment?

Fashion is reflecting on what is happening on a societal level. People are using fashion to make political statements as well as social statements. We see more use of clothing to push the ideas that people have about the way we need to be treating each other as well as the way we need to be treating our planet. There is an ever-growing divide between big box fast fashion and homegrown indie brands. I may live in somewhat of a bubble, but it appears that the indie scene is gaining strength. The use of technology and social media has allowed platforms for visibility that we haven’t seen before. We can now demand transparency and have accountability for actions that enable us to a choice as to where to spend our money. The days of the Sears Christmas catalogue are long gone.■ 193

LUXFINDZ

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Photography Viktoria Lihachoff @viktoria_lihachoff Dress Apricot

Photography Hoang-Nam Vo-LÃª @namaste_vo Model Jackie Haruko McRae @jackiemcrae_xo Wadrobe Bishop & Young 195

FORWARD Feature

LUXFINDZ

Canadian e-commerce fashion boutique Noriko Oyama worked in the Corporate World for more than 15 years. She thrived on networking, partnerships, business ventures and opportunities she created. However, she left her last position as the Director of Global Business Development at a software company to pursue her passion.

In 2017, LUXFINDZ, a single source online boutique for today's busy woman was launched to make getting dressed and looking good every day easy. "Throughout my career, I was a single mother, travelling around the world on business while trying to juggle my home life. From packing school lunches, driving my daughter to ballet, piano, soccer and other extracurricular activities, it was a challenge for me to find the time or energy to go to the mall," says the founder and CEO, LUXFINDZ, Noriko Oyama. She knew that she was not alone in this game. Many women are challenged by a similar lifestyle, overwhelmed with the stress that busy life brings. So she created an online platform where these women could shop clothing for all aspects of their lives– from casual basics, streetwear, outerwear to workwear and formal wear– all in one place. LUXFINDZ offers clothes that are limited in inventory and exclusive to them from brands based in the UK, Spain, LA, NYC, Montreal and Toronto. Noriko handpicks every item after she has personally tried them all on to gauge the cut, fit and fabric. Fit and comfort are essential to LUXFINDZ.

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Photography Hoang-Nam Vo-Lê @namaste_vo Model Jackie Haruko McRae @jackiemcrae_xo Dress Motion Trench Coat Fennelli

"The brand is not just for Fashion; it is also to promote a healthy lifestyle," shared Noriko. Having experienced post-

or just making sushi at home. Noriko relates the importance of being authentic and finding joy in everyday life as well as knowing how to laugh at "imperfection." Every LUXFINDZ package arrives the client's door encased in a black matte LUXFINDZ bag, wrapped and stuffed with pink tissue. Unwrapping the box is like a present opened with excitement and eagerness!â&#x2013;

Photography Viktoria Lihachoff @viktoria_lihachoff Dress Apricot

pregnancy changes to her body, she wanted to create a brand where she could provide women of all shapes and sizes, good quality clothing while promoting work-life balance. She also inspires women to have fun by sharing her adventures through her online videos and social media postsâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;be it kickboxing for the first time, clueless first time gym experience while lifting crazy weights, running with a friend Photography Viktoria Lihachoff Dress Bishop & Young 197

Photography Kevin @one35photography Model Jackie Haruko McRae @jackiemcrae_xo Charlot Daysh @charlotdaysh

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FORWARD Feature

DIVERSITY BLOOMS recognizing personal vision brings creative and joyful expression to sustainable style By Sarah Peel Photography by Luiza Ferro

You can probably draw a direct line

from the Konmari phenomenon to the resurrection of interest in the minimalist lifestyle and the simplicity movement. Millions of people around the world have read Marie Kondo’s “The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up,” published in English in 2014, and more recently in a binge-worthy Netflix series released at the beginning of the year. It’s started people asking questions and reassessing their relationships with stuff. For those who have not read or watched the series, the thing Ms. Kondo starts with is clothing. As the corollary goes, “When I have less stuff and what I do have is tidy, my space feels calm and peaceful.” Alternatively, “With less stuff, I have more room for things and experiences that mean something to me. They have real value. I do not need to consume to be happy.” It’s not hard to see why people aiming to live a more sustainable lifestyle love the book and series. Consuming less leads to a life lived with fewer of the planet’s resources. Having in our possession only items that “spark joy” means more mindful consumption and investing in things that are quality and have an ethical backstory. 202

L to R, back row Sarah Peel, Cheryl Romeril, Debbie King, Faith Watson, Emily Watson, Kelly Drennan, Shanika Maria, MP Guillot, Vanessa Mo, Tasneem Saloojee L to R, front row Lauryn Kapral, Vasiliki Belegrinis, Asha Drennan 203

Is this all we need– to have more joy and sustainability in our wardrobes? It can be a tool to use on the journey for sure, but there is something more important that comes first. At Citizenne, (where I am a co-founder), we believe the spark for transformative conscious style is created when you connect personal Vision with a gracious invitation to explore a diversity of approaches to sustainability and style. When we start any project, in this case, creating a more sustainable wardrobe by identifying our core values and desires, i.e. our “Why,” it’s easier to keep motivated, curious and excited. If we get off course, often checking into our Why is all we need to get back on track. For this FORWARD issue on Vision, we wanted to experiment on the visioning process. What would happen if we invited a diverse group of women (ages, shapes and sizes, cultural and faith backgrounds, colours, sexual orientation, lifestyles and aesthetics) who were at various stages– from “sustainability curious” to “sustainability is my way of life”,–to do a visioning process, then turn up to a photo shoot, completely styled from their closets and reflecting their lifestyle and personality? What follows are their fascinating and beautiful responses. We are so thankful that they were open to sharing with the readers of FORWARD, and hope the results bring you some joy and inspiration!

Spotlight on the Citizenne Models Cheryl Romeril @cherylromeril

What are you wearing? I am wearing clothes that I have proudly owned for almost a decade, the leather flats, the dress by Canadian designer KALIYANA that I have worn dozens and dozens of times, and still wearing it, and my scarf the oldest of the bunch, almost 12 years. Except for the Gap Duster Jacket which I picked it up just a couple years ago for half price and have worn it so much, since.

Vision Statement

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I want to be a person who is confident, caring and transparent. I want my wardrobe to reflect those same values. My favourite place to “shop” is in my closet, and I love the challenge of finding new ways to wear what I already have. I only buy something if I LOVE it!

Vasiliki Belegrinis @vbelegrinis What are you wearing? I am wearing Tanya Taylor fringe tank top from Boro rentals. For the not-so summer weather just yet, it is paired with a white quarter sleeve crop top from Brandy Melville that I wore back in high school, and have had it for about five years. My RW&Co pants were from my internship days while working in corporate three years ago. The outfit is finished off with my four-year-old Nike Air Force Ones. Vision Statement I want to feel confident. My body isn't perfect, and I want to always feel happy and comfortable in what I am wearing. I also hope that my wardrobe does not expand. I want to go on a no-shopping challenge for the rest of my life and continue to leverage what other people already own, and share.

Tasneem Saloojee @neem5851 What are you wearing? Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m wearing my favourite Old Navy jeans, a mustard tank from the Banana Republic and accessorized with the necklace from a local jewelry sale. Vision Statement I wear pieces that I can connect to and help bring out who I am as a personâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;items that celebrate my identity as a hardworking woman, a mother, teacher, and a lover of life. I prefer high-quality things that can wear various occasions. I appreciate blends of colours, textures and fabrics while I look for authentic items that give me style, confidence and comfort.

MP Guillot@dontwasteyourgenius What are you wearing? New Balance socks, Camper sandals, Zara kids bag (2016), vintage shirt, Cheap Monday jeans (2017), Glamorous jacket (2017). Vision Statement Always dress the way you want, and do it for yourself. Never try to change who you are to fit into any group of people or any circumstances. 205

FORWARD Feature

Debbie King @supafitmama What are you wearing? Top: yellow Zara blouse (thrifted), Bottoms: olive leggings (thrifted), Shoes: satin pumps (thrifted), Purse: multi-coloured button clutch (clothing swap), Jewellery: gold necklace, might have been from H&M or some other fast fashion retail, Scarf: Free gift from a neighbourhood barista. I love that the entire outfit was under $25 and that I managed to make leggings work. I practically live in gym leggings and stretch jeans and find it daunting to select other styles of bottoms that fit well and that I feel great wearing. Vision Statement I want a deliberate and joyful wardrobe that allows me to move fluidly throughâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;athletic, family, community and entrepreneurialâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;life with strength, grace and a dash of sass. 206

Kelly Drennan @kellyecofashion Vanessa Mo @garrisongardener What are you wearing? I'm wearing a vintage dress that I bought at the Salvation Army. I purchased it about eight months ago and have worn it about a dozen times. Vision Statement My vision for my style is to know that my fashion choices have made as little impact on the environment as possible. This means buying less NEW pieces, repurposing and reusing through thrift and swaps, and when I do buy something new, making sure it was made ethically. I like wearing statement pieces that spark conversation around the impacts of fashion!

What are you wearing? I'm wearing quite a few Canadian and sustainable designers. Leather jacket: BanOMee, Toronto, Dress: Valerie Dumaine, Montreal, Leggings: OKOkay, Toronto, Coat: Nua, Toronto, Shoes: Tsubo, NYC, Necklace and bracelets: Bunz, Earrings: OmiWoods, Toronto Vision Statement I want to be comfortable, professional and confident in the fact that I didn't spend 30 minutes choosing my outfit. I want to have a capsule closet that I can add pieces to gradually, while letting go of some that have served their purpose. I want to be making 25% of what I wear daily, in ALL seasons. I need to pare down my summer wardrobe to reflect the fact that I do not work during the hottest months of the year, and instead travel for much of this time and need to be able to put together a capsule wardrobe that is appropriate for all continents and multiple settings.

Emily & Faith Watson @thelesbianblog What are you wearing? We were wearing a mix of thrifted garments and clothes we've had for more than years! We believe in taking care of everything we own, so it lasts as long as possible! Vision Statement We always do our best to spend our money and energy, making memories, not waste! In many ways, that translates to our wardrobe. Our goal is to own a small collection of quality, thrifted items that are versatile enough to work in all areas of our life — on the road, on the couch, and the hiking trail. Shanika Maria (she doesn't use last name) @shanika_maria What are you wearing? Thrifted: jacket, pants, and corset. Hand-me-down: head scarf, striped shirt. Forever21: red shoes (2 years) Aliexpress: harness (2 years). I like bold looks: monochromatic colour palette, contrasting colours, with textures and prints. Vision statement I like to experiment with my style. I love bold looks and pieces that are unique and stand out. I am a very creative person, and I want to be just as creative with how I put together my outfits. I believe any piece can be worn in multiple ways and can be altered to fit my style. Ever since my high school, I've hunted through thrift stores, or my family and friend's closets, for exciting pieces to add to my wardrobe — most of the clothes I own are items that I had for years. Any recent finds are thrifted, from clothing swaps, hand-me-downs, or supporting local fashion brands. I know that creating and discarding clothing causes a massive toll on the environment. I like to do my small part in reducing clothing waste.■ 207

FORWARD Interview

Karine Guimarães

An interview with a Vitiligo model from the Brazil Compiled by J. Sánchez-Velo and Fredsonn Silva Agudá. Original interview in the Portuguese language translated into English by J. Sánchez-Velo. Photographer Izabela Medina @izabela.medina Art Director Fredsonn Silva Aguda ́ @fredsonnsilvaaguda Producer and Writer Julio Sa ́nchez-Velo @chezvelo Stylists John Pereira @jhonpereira.a_frente , Fredsonn Silva Aguda ́ @fredsonnsilvaaguda Makeup Patt de Carvalho @pattdecarvalho Hair Massimiliano Santini @massimiliano_santini , Ricky Marcell Santini @rickymarcellsantini Model Karine Guimara ̃es @karineguimares19

Dress Rey Vilas Boas @rey.vilasboas

Karine Guimarães, 32, is a single mother,

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self-made businesswoman and activist, who proudly embraces her vitiligo–"disfiguring skin disorder" that results in discoloured white patches around several areas of the body and face. Guimarães is an inspiration helping to change the way we see beauty. She lives in a black –favela-type– the neighbourhood in the city of Salvador, Bahia State. It is a colourful, impoverished, very

most people struggle to survive or to make ends densely populated meet. Acts of violence, district plagued with random shootings and unemployment, police brutality have violence and severe become a norm. infrastructure However, we take pride challenges such as poor in our sense of sanitation, lack of community where we all transportation and stand together and fight sewer and garbage against the perils. removal systems. Life is Nordeste de Amaralina is a daily struggle for my home. most of its inhabitants, but there is a real sense Talk about your vitiligo, of community, and they and how it has impacted always come together your life? in times of peril. It is in It first started with some this community, her spots on my hand at the home which gave her age of six, and in about a life and made her the year, they had spread to proud, empowered other parts of my body black woman she is and even to my face. I today, where we had don't remember myself the pleasure of without, and for me they listening to her story to are normal, they are me. bring it back to At school, if the odd kid FORWARD. called me any names I would fight back, and I Hello, Karine. Tell us quickly learned to stand about this place, your my ground. My vitiligo hometown. was never a problem, and I am from Salvador, it didn't affect my Bahia, a resident of a wellbeing. I was a happy community called kid and very well liked, Nordeste de Amaralina, so I have fond memories a prominent favela of my childhood, vitiligo enclave, a town where and all.

The life that I had been born into is different because I have vitiligo. Vitiligo is a wonderful, god-sent gift in my life. You sound very content with who you are as a person. I am indeed. Who gets to be two women in one? [laughs]. I am black and white, all at the same time. I am sexy, and I feel beautiful and feminine, like a living work of art. Learning to accept and love myself is my defence mechanism. I need to remind myself constantly that I am beautiful because some ignorant people still think I am a freak, and they tell me to my face, sadly. This condition is a psychologically debilitating skin disorder for many people. Other than the visible physical signs, how has it changed you as a person? I don't remember myself without my vitiligo. Growing up with the spots and having the need to explain them to others was sometimes troubling to me, but it has helped me feel empathetic towards other people's struggles as well. We all look different on the outside, but we are the same on the inside, same soul and spirit after all. We all want

to be loved and accepted. Although, I do feel defined by my vitiligo. It has moulded me into the person I am, and I know for a fact that my life would have been very different if I didn't have it. Please, explain. I would be another black woman from the favela, with no prospect of improving my life or the life of my loved ones. I would be one of many women in my community who need to live in the present because their future always seems uncertain. I would probably work as a cashier at some dingy store, or be a housewife with no job and no financial means, depending entirely on a husband I might not love. The life that I had been born into is different because I have vitiligo. I am on TV, on commercials and

Dress John Pereira @jhonpereira.a_frente Red Max Necklace Rey Vilas Boas @rey.vilasboas Boots Red Wing Shoes @redwingheritage

music videos, and people recognize me on the street. I still don't make lots of money, but at least I can give my teenage daughter a more comfortable life, and that makes me very happy. I think having vitiligo is a wonderful, god-sent gift in my life. Do you think your profession as a model is a direct consequence of your skin condition? I never thought about being a model.

I was living my life, doing odd jobs and trying to make ends meet, like most others that I know around here. One day I was participating with my daughter in the yearly "Afro Hair and Black Rights March" in my city, â&#x20AC;&#x201D;a big gathering to empower black people to feel good about their African heritageâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; and some producers from SĂŁo Paulo spotted me in the crowd. I was offered a photo shoot campaign for a local beer company, and that is how it all started. Although I was not too abrupt to accept the offer right away. 209

Why were you so reluctant to accept at the beginning? It just seemed too good to be true. I am a girl from the favela, and these things don't happen to any of us. We are survivors, and we are always on guard. When they eventually offered to fly me to SĂŁo Paulo and pay for my hotel stay during the photo shoot, I finally agreed and signed the contract. That was my first major commercial, and I loved it. What is the best thing about modelling for you? When I was growing up, I never saw people like me on any TV shows or magazines. The dolls I played with were white, and they had long straight blonde hair. Everyone I watched and admired on different media platforms was white and looked very different from myself and my peers. Also, funny enough, we all aspire to be like them, erroneously. So, what I like about modelling is the fact that I can represent and give visibility to people who look like me and identify with me, black girls with big afros or braids, who want to be proud of who they are and what their ancestry is, and more importantly, other children with vitiligo who don't usually see people like themselves on billboards or magazines or TV commercials. Everyone in the world wants to feel included and represented, and through my work, I get to help people learn to love themselves. The world is finally changing, and we are working towards inclusivity and diversity, at baby steps, but at least we are headed in the right direction. We still have a long way to go, but you can't deny there is more diversity in the fashion and entertainment industries. We have seen many changes happening in the last few years. In Brazil, for example, we finally have soap operas and other popular TV programs that already have actors with disabilities playing the "successful, good guy" role, which is an excellent thing, but on the 210

other hand, we still don't see many actors with vitiligo on the screen. Vitiligo models are doing fashion photo shoots, commercials and music videos, but we're not on TV shows portrayed as 'regular' people yet. That is wrong. Did you, at any time in your life, try to cover your spots with any beauty products? When I was a small child, and I got the spots, my grandma took me to the hospital, and the doctors gave me pills, but they did not work. Being a small child, I had to do what they wanted me to do, and I had no choice. I had to suffer from side effects and stomach problems to no avail. My grandma even tried some weird home remedy concoction with turtle liver in it, but it also failed. Then, when I grew up, and I got to make my own decisions I swore to myself that I was never going to try to conceal my vitiligo. Because of what you went through as a child, what was your first thought when you got pregnant? Were you concerned that your child might also have vitiligo? When I got pregnant, I was still a teenager. I am a single mother, and I have raised my daughter on my own. I never really cared about whether my child was going to have vitiligo or not. If she were to have it, I would educate her in a way to make her proud, just like me. Luiza is eighteen years old now, and she does not have vitiligo. She is the most open-minded girl I know, and she understands that my vitiligo is not a disease or a physical defect, just a lack of pigmentation on the skin. I love her to pieces, and she is my fan number one. What advice would you give those young people who have vitiligo or other visible skin conditions? My advice will be more to the parents. We can't keep kids in a bubbleâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; as they did with me as a childâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;, trying to spare them difficult situations. Children, in general, learn how to develop their defence mechanisms if we let them. If we keep these children secluded or isolated, they will grow up very vulnerable and prone to having

difficulties accepting themselves. We need to take them out and show them off, go to the mall, the beach, the park. I was a beach lover when I was little. I did not even wear sunblock, and I'd stay in the sun all day. I was coming home with third degree burns on my skin [laughs], but I was a happy child because I got to spend lots of time outside with all my friends. To finish up, Karine, who are your most admired role models within the vitiligo community at the moment? Even though there are many deserving advocates and true "vitiligo warriors" who are doing a great job bringing these issues to the public eye, I don't think I need to admire people solely based on the fact they have this skin condition. My true hero is my grandmother, and she had no vitiligo. She was a nurse, and she always had great empathy towards other people's struggles. She was a true warrior of life herself. She raised several children on her own, without the presence or the help of a male figure, and that's a significant accomplishment. I admire all the women of my community who successfully endure daily struggles to survive. Also, celebrities who use their platform to advocate for equality and social Justice inspires me. For instance, the Brazilian singer, Saulo who always speaks up to fight against the ongoing prejudice and racism that exist towards the black, impoverished favela populations of my country, and for that, he has my utmost respect.â&#x2013;

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Photography Sams Arifin @sams_arifin_paris Designer Darzha @_darzha_ Model : Gaby Guha (DMA Models Paris) @gabyguha Style : Beauty Vintage stylist @beautyvintagestylist Makeup & Hair : Ophe Ě lie Chambers @opheliechambers_mua

Photography Karl M . LEE @karl_fashion_photographer Designer Orlando Caquias @designer_orlandocaquias Model Sailor Anderson @sailorandersonmodeling

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