The Designer Issue

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FORWARD Magazine is a quarterly publication. For information on our quarterly publishing cycle, please contact us via http://www.ForwardFashionToronto.com. 2018 Designer Issue -- Published February 2018. Š 2018 FORWARD Fashion Toronto. All Rights Reserved. No part of this magazine may by reproduced, distributed or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechnical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. EDITORIAL OFFICE FORWARD Magazine is published by FORWARD Fashion Toronto. contact@ForwardFashionToronto.com


Peggy Sue Collection Photographer Emily Neill

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C on t e n t

Peggy Sue Collection, p.72

74

Peggy Sue

FORWARD Exclusive

Collection

11. Letter from the Art Director

award winning designer

Photography by Emily Neill & Ayze

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108

10. Letter from the Editor Ugyen Wangmo Reba Harrison 12. Letters to the Editor 12. FORWARD Friends 40. Volunteer of the Year Alisa Lim

Travel in Style 54. The Beauty of Diversity: Brazil

Startup Fashion Week

by Fredsonn Silva Aguda 56. The Traveling Model Nini Amerlise 46. Unravel Resort: Vesika Pisces 52. Travel Light with Encircled

Toronto 2017

Beauty & Health

by FORWARD

14. Mane Interest: KimDu Salon

Canada 150

Social Report

from humble beginnings to present day

by Sarah Sheehan

50. Textile Sunblock: Izol UV

92. WEAR: Making the Shift World Ethical Apparel Roundtable 94. Plus Size Fashion Malia Indigo Plus 28. A Night of Inspiration Monday Girl 82. Design Forward Fashion Award Fashion Takes Action

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Emy Armour, p.134

Style Report 100. Street Wise by Photographer Michele Taras 96. Kehli G. 98. Jay Jay Kings 99. Mason 104. Taking Suits to the Street by Photographer Olga Hutsul

Tech 114. Wearable Fashion Tech Tap2Tag Connect

Business 26. My Name is My Name by Hashim Ghazi

A Deeper Look 116. Be Your Own Queen DAMASSIA 42. Warrior Goddess Helen Oro

View: Editorial 130. High Tide Photographer Michele Taras 20. Universalies Designer F. Capuano 136. Goddess of Desire Designer Emy ARMOR 142. Romantic Mystery Designer Emy ARMOR

Runway 73. Tumbler & Tipsy by Michael Kuluva New York Fashion Week 2018 72. Battle of the Designers 66. Toronto Women's Fashion Week

Couture 124. New York Couture Fashion Week Photographed by Olga Hutsul 120. Spring/Summer 2018 Collection Designer Amato Couture 84. Lost Traveler: Noir et Blanc R. Tristan F Licud

148. Last Look

M i c h e l e Ta r a s , p . 1 3 0

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Founders Reba Harrison & Ugyen Wangmo Editor in Chief Ugyen Wangmo Visual Manager Reba Harrison Business Director Reba Harrison In the case that a person is applicable in more than one category, FORWARD has listed them only once in the category we believe best represents their work. Main Photographer Olga Hutsul Contributing Writers Hashim Ghazi Nini Amerlise Sarah Sheehan, PhD Contributing Photographers Amanda Lorena Antwon Maxwell Aphiraa Gowry Ayze Che Rosales Danny Santana Duncan Telford Emily Neill Felix M. Gary Murray Gemini Duncan Guido Lanetta Jim Orgill Jowel V. Kimball V Regier Liana Carbone of Haven Creative Louise Yu Maeli San Mandy Hunter Mary Elam Michele Taras Michelle Aristocrat Mike Sukhram Nesrine Brikci Shiloh Stephan Loban Regisaurus Sarah Ostiguy ? ? Tyrone Mitchell Vai Yu Law Feautured Designers & Brands Aldo Alice Kass Lingerie Angela De Montiguy Bianca Cordileone of Emy ARMOR Brit Wacher Claie Lemaitre Auger Claudette by Claudette Floyd DAMASSIA Encircled

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Fanny Capuano Furious Fur Grandma Funk Green Dress Designs H&M Helen Oro Jewel's Box Josh Tassoni Ki Clothing Koda Nivoli Lisa Sacheittielo Lonely Luxe Collection by Mellissa Mahtab Azizsoltani Marilyn Brooks Michelle of Vesika Pisces Musesa Jewellery Patricia Fields Peggy Sue Collection Pink Boutique Poculum Pop Sauvage Clothing Romulo Salomao Royale Tea Seasonz Toronto Stephen Caras Suzy Q Jewels Suzy Tamasy Tristan Licud Uncuffed U.N.I. Vanessa of Vanika Design Wallo Ya Ya & Co Zarga Zoba Martin Zoran Dobric Featured Hair Stylists CHEL Salon Spa Chrissy Palmer Plante of PRIVÉ Par David D'Amours Ech Bernard of Dem Studios Jessy Resendes of Brow Boutique and Hair Kara Ruether Kelsie Kitzul Kim Du of Kim Du Salon Michelle Phuong Paola Martinez Pauline Magno St-Gelais of NS Style Coiffure Featured Makeup Artists Alexia Theopoulos Ariel Bernatchez Assiya Chanelle Garcia Eunique G. Kamzani Helene KJ of Glass Visage Lisa Arsenault of Pinch Cosmetics Nadeen Qalam Nini Love Artistry Osato Erebor Rosa-Lee Farquharson of Malvarose Beauty Shareena Sueli Santos Suzy Rose Takiyah Duggan

Trisha Soroka Molleken Featured Directors & Stylists Alexia Krizia La Palerma Aimon Syeda Cherizar Claris Minas Manglicmot Couture Culture & Arts – CCA Davi Tomas Fredsonn Silva Aguda Ivie Ose Jefferson Silva Kendace L. Marcia Maxwel Mason Schlueter of Unique Stylingsl Victor Borges Featured Models Alexia Manfon Alexis Alisa Lim Alyiana Chu Angelica dos Santos Andreia Silva Ashe Victoria Charlotte Cantin D'ami Dawn Estensen Debbie A. Emily Luneng Emily Sorensen Gala of Folio Montreal Honey Benjamin JayJay Kings Jen Linker Jess Kehli G Kirsten Victoria Mackay Malia of Malia Indigo Marie Frede Melissa Legros Michelle Linker Nathan Hardy Pascale Ramalingum Samantha Moore Shelby Auburn Sherry Simone Denny Tamtt Seturidze Tarah Jessica Thuanny Galvao Vea Enriquez Weiwei Yasmin Tomas Zander Taylor Other Assistance/Apperance From Abstraxion Retouch Alex Penades of Jeanologia Chirag Tekchandaney of Bombay Danial Schiff of Ashoka Ellen Karp Kathleen Talbot Lilac Media Group, The Luigi Caccia of ItalDenim Maria Westbos of Plastic Soup Foundation Roger Williams of River Blue


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Letter from the Editor

Photo by Emily Neill of Peggy Sue Collection

Change is Inevitable Powerful

W

hile there is much respect found in the traditional ways of creating fashion, there are designers who are breaching the mold to thrive the changing landscape of the Fashion.

Social and economic demands are transforming the design, production, and consumption processes of the fashion industry. With this consumer shift, established brands are attempting to revive themselves through designer switch-ups and step-downs. However, we need not look farther than our Southern Ontario home to find a plethora of skilled individuals who are establishing their niche to thrive and set the bar at a cutting-edge level. A destination for emerging talent full of passion, FORWARD Magazine focuses our lens on the creative process of artists who blaze the trail in design. From labels that reveal your inner strength and individualism, to those who help you travel lighter or protect your skin from UV-rays, we present the need-to-know labels of the present and future. The process of design is a long and complicated adventure of fascination, stretching further than its layered sketches or yards of fabric. The ability to share a compelling story on the mystery and allure which becomes sewn into a dress is a privilege that we are proud to lay forward.

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Peggy Sue Collection shines on our cover to celebrate Fashion as a Force of Good through sustainable supply practices. The label of sustainable fashion guarantees a product of considerable morality. It is widely considered that social ethics inspire attire and style, but FORWARD wonders whether that is true. Or if, perhaps, fashion inspires ethics? The philosophy of ethics set FORWARD Magazine’s first issue on a journey of becoming The Ethical Issue. We found beauty in the diversity, inclusivity, sustainability, charity, academia, controversy, and frivolity - all through our team of contributors. The Designer Issue further admires the growing democratization of fashion as the rise of individual fashion consciousness is shaking up the fashion industry in a historic effort. As individuals take their bodies back, we reveal the personal style of local Toronto style personalities. While our social media made a note of the country’s true age before colonization, FORWARD also celebrated our country in a highlight of Toronto’s fashion industry since 1867 written by fashion historian Sarah Sheehan of PatternVault. The Designer Issue explores the latest minds of the avant-garde, what you missed in creative soirees, a chic trip around the world and - most importantly - how to be a thoughtful fashion consumer; to look good and feel great. A successful magazine depends on close collaboration and


conversation with its team, contributors, and readers. We extend a sincere gratitude and Thank You! to a brilliant team of contributors who each brought so much of themselves and their skills to this project. I hope the readers of FORWARD will take pleasure in the commitment and dedication evident on each page leading to an intoxicating discussion. We are at the peak of fashion’s history as it transcends into something far more personal than ever before. With a growing world of responsible stakeholders, there is a power in craftsmanship and its promise that counteracts fast fashion. The changing dynamics of beauty rules are no longer at the corporate level control. Like every great journey, putting together our Designer Issue was a constant hurrah of celebration for the artistic talents that live among us. As such, we dedicate this installment to the progression of the fashion industry to better reflect our consumer needs; that which we have a passion in and care to see in our future.

Ugyen Wangmo Letter from the Art Director

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t is my duty to create the outline and graphic design as it represents our vision of the community’s contributions and hopefully performs justly to the talent and skill our contributors.

From our trial Issue 0, we put weight on our reader's feedback to create improvements for Issue 1, the Ethical Issue. Now in our second official publishment, the Designer Issue, we continue to grow in the reflection of our communities responses. It is a tradition that I contribute a single, intricate article and in this issue, I had the honour and privilege to cover the annual Startup

Fashion Week. Whereas in the Ethical Issue, my piece reflected on the two-sided argument on fur in fashion, The Designer Issue brought me the opportunity to learn about the future of the industry and what that means for designers and retailers. While we are far from covering every designer of talent and skill in our second issue, we have packed each page with people that have inspired us personally over the past year. We hope you are able to lose yourself in the motivation that accompanies our published figures of inspiration. Thank You Kindly

Reba Harrison 9


Contributor Experience

More from our

Social Media

Green Beauty Writer “In the last few months I wrote a piece for the first issue of FORWARD and while I obviously knew this was happening, seeing my words and photos in a real live print magazine is pretty darn cool.” - Sarah Price @sarahapriceca

Community Effort S Af Gr olid ter t a #M nd Lea he p W t Co ake inn her ublis ng Mo er wa hm ra re of s a e tu Fu th n nt la nd e no of tio c Cr un Is ns on eem ce sue d , J tes es t f ore as 1, se or Sp the B m ri at ak ng em er s an s. !

Letters to the Editor

It comes as no surprised that many alongside Nathan Hardy @nmodelh were excited that after selling out our Limited Print 100 of Issue 1, we came back with another 50 available.

Solid Leather

In an official post for Startup Fashion Week featuring model and designer Vanessa of Vanika Design, Ryley Gutoskie @rsgutoskie commented “I went to high school with Vanessa… amazing to see how far she’s come” accompanied by a heart emoji. On a similar post, Amy Polevoy @thestyleheiress wrote “The is so awesome!!!”

“So excited to have Issue 1 of FORWARD finally sitting on my desk! It was nearly 2 months ago that Solid Leather @solidleather and I pulled together this photoshoot under a tight time crunch. After our initial location fell through, it was a race against the clock to find a new backdrop before the sun set that evening. Lucky for us, the Peterborough Airport is fairly lax!” - Sam Moss @mossworks “I truly believe that it is in the connections and community that being an entrepreneur or brand has the most benefit… Recently, one of these connections used if they could do an editorial for a new fashion magazine. IT is time like this that I am extra humbled (which if you know me, you know that doesn’t come easy). Many thanks to MossWorks and FORWARD who just released their first issue. Be sure to check them out as they have a really beautiful thing going.” - Jesse Bateson @solidleather Editorial Model “Getting printed into a magazine was definitely one of my goals, and I am still hoping to be in a lot more. I’m very proud of this moment in my life and can’t wait to see what my future brings. Thank you FORWARD for printing me in the first issue. I can’t wait to collaborate again something.” - Nathan Hardy @nmodelh

FORWARD Friends

Toronto’s own RAD Photo Booth @radphotobooth was not alone in their amazement of our debut sharing #31DaysofHalloweenMakeup samples from makeup artist Christie Read @chriskiiread.

In response to our post congratulating our Issue 1 cover model Rachel Romu @rachelromu on winning the nominated Toronto Women’s Fashion Week @tw_fw award for a Canadian that embodies TWFW, Colleen Romu @colleenromu wrote “So deserving. Xoxo” alongside praises from blogger Mursal @forevermursel, and one of our investors Kate Harrison @travelswithspirit. And in response to a post of our that reads “What we are working towards is a sort of co-op for the community to support each other towards success,” our incredibly talented in-house photographer Olga Hutsul @olgahutsulphotography commented: “As I am looking at the copy of your magazine on my desk, I am thinking [that] you are not trying, but actually doing; telling the story of fashion in Toronto!”

Letters to the editor should be sent electronically with the writer's name, address, and daytime phone number to contact@forwardfashiontoronto.com. All requests for back issues, and other inquiries should be sent to the same email address. The magazine reserves the right to edit submissions, which may be published or otherwise used in any medium. All submissions become the propoerty of FORWARD Fashion Toronto.

Shayne Gray

Firstly thank you to Fashion Forward Toronto for following up with me and glad to see you build your community! Since our last encounter things have been busy but wonderful. I’ve had the chance to do some commercial work for Cavalia with all their spectacular horses, did a video with Prime Minister Justin Trudeau and several other amazing projects. Coming up in the new year, I am looking forward to some great collaborations with some of Toronto’s talented designers and other creative people! @shaynegrayphotography www.shaynegray.com

Aimon Syeda

Aimon Syeda is a Toronto based Stylist, Runway show producer, Creative director, and Influencer. Her love for fashion has led her to work in all aspects of the industry over the last five years. She is currently focusing on her styling career and mentoring new startups in the fashion industry.

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@the_star_girl aimon_syeda@hotmail.com

Erika Fung

Born and raised in Toronto and currently residing in Japan. I am on an adventure to discover and understand my full potential. I want to create original pieces from/with feelings that truly represent who I am. I believe life is about finding your own happiness. Everyone's definition of happiness will not be the same as your own, so do what makes you truly happy in order to reach your full potential! @eri_hair www.erikafung.com


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In

Mane

ter

est

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"It's not about us. It's about the client. It's about the hair. It's about the experience"

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Beauty Fashion and hair go hand-inwell... hair. Style is a packaged look detailed with glorious locks, shining tresses, great length, or bold crops. Experience it to the fullest in the snip of his scissors or a bottle of dye, the expertise of veteran hairstylist Kim Du will make you “look the part." Visit the calm, sunny, and intimate oasis of Kim Du Salon, located in the heart of Toronto's stylish Yorkville area. Having a bad hair day? Feel the need to re-invent yourself? Or are you simply looking spoil yourself with a relaxing visit to Kim Du Salon? Captured in these pages is the artistry of the team manifesting femininity/ masculinity with desirability.

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Jen Linker Hair colour “Peekaboo Soft Balayage” by Michelle Phuong, Haircut “long soft, sexy layers” by Kim Du

Alyiana Chu Hair colour “Romantic Soft Balayage” by Michelle Phuong Haircut “long soft, classy layers” by Kim Du

Michelle Linker Hair colour “full highlights with a sexy and modern touch” by Paola Martinez 16


Photographer Louise Yu @louise.images, Stylist Aimon Syeda @the_star_girl, Hair Stylists Michelle Phuong, Paola Martinez and Kim Du, Makeup Artist Nadeen Qalam @facebynadeen, Designers Ya Ya & Co @yaya_co with Gold net dress with sleeves; Long black dress; Sleeveless red dress; Short sleeved red dress & Seasonz Toronto @seasonztoronto with Long green sparkly piece & Luxe Collection by Mellissa @luxecollection.mw with Halter sleeveless sequined gold dress. 17


Universalies

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F.CAPUANO


ENTER THE RELAM OF BY BEING A PART OF

A place where women don't have to conform to the pressures and expectations of the society. Featuring Universalis (akin to EncyclopĂŚdia Universalis), inspired by the book, designer Fanny Capuano wrote to tell the story of women with great minds. With a collection rich in deep colors embracing a unique romantic twist with a hint of vintage elegance: Be yourself, express your individuality, and embody imagination and creativity with a good book while embellished in F. CAPUANO F.CAPUANO is a Montreal based clothing line that seeks to build a progressive world by making us aspire for a positive world as conjured up by the designer [for each collection]; while keeping the spirits of the creators alive.

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literary escapism

F.CAPUANO

's

secret, empowering

book club.


runway.

on the

On the catwalk in Fanny Capuano's hometown of St-Bruno-de-Montarville, books lined the runway on September 30th, 2017.

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View

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Designer Fanny Capuano @fcapuanomtl, Photographer Sarah Ostiguy @sarahostiguy, Makeup Artist Ariel Bernatchez, Hair Nancy St-gelais @nsstyle_coiffure, Models Charlotte Cantin @_charlotte_cantin_ & Marie Frede @marie_frede & Alexia Manfon @alx.i.am & Tarah Jessica @tarah.jessica & Melissa Legros @melissa.leg


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Business

My

Name Is my name

Why Developing a Trademark Strategy Early Can Help Grow Your Fashion Empire

W

by Hashim Ghazi

hen embarking on the world of fashion entrepreneurship, there are many legal considerations to evaluate. The word ‘lawyer’ paints a daunting picture to entrepreneurs, largely because they are so bloody expensive.

As a result, entrepreneurs only consult lawyers for the most necessary of tasks, overlooking many legal considerations as not important ‘right now.’ One of these considerations is intellectual property, namely trademarks. Trademarks, as defined by the Canadian Intellectual Property Office, protect a combination of letters, words, sounds or designs that distinguish one company’s goods or services from those of others in the marketplace. In other words, trademarks protect your business’s identifiable attributes, such as your logo, slogan or brand name, from third-parties either benefitting from or diminishing your goodwill. Developing a sound trademark strategy at the early stages of your business poses countless advantages in ensuring your business maintains the competitive advantages garnered from its brand, reputation, and goodwill. Why Trademark? You may retain a lawyer to incorporate your business or draft your supplier agreements – which, no doubt are critical elements to get right in the initial stages – but give less importance to your intellectual property portfolio. The truth of the matter is, in the infant stages of your business, your brand, such as your logo or name, is often your most valuable and recognizable asset. It stands to differentiate you from your competitors, so why wait until you are ‘big enough’ to take steps in protecting it? Marks left unprotected stand subject to a plethora of potential infringements that can damage, diminish, and in some cases, demolish the efforts you put into your business. Developing a trademark strategy in conjunction with a reputable trademark lawyer at the early onset of your company provides a sound platform to identify, design, and enforce your brand against competitors, and offers peace of mind in the protection of your goodwill and reputation. When To Trademark It is advisable to develop a trademark strategy at the early onsets of the business to allow for the visualization of concepts that add value to the company; which concepts can and cannot be protected; and 24

Provided by Hashim Ghazi, of Himself what ambits of the business should be prioritized in registration. Developing a trademark strategy with your lawyer in the beginning stages protects integral concepts of your brand, reputation, and goodwill from the start, and allows your business to grow while keeping these crown jewels away from third-parties looking to capitalize on your influence and presence in the marketplace. What To Trademark Depending on the nature of your business, different ‘marks’ may be eligible for trademark protection. This can include your brand name, logo, slogan, and even your packaging, to name a few. New business ventures in the fashion industry may require more than one trademark, as there can be a variety of elements that contribute to the reputation and goodwill of a brand. Also, not every aspect of your business avails itself to protection. It is imperative that you work with a trademark lawyer or agent to identify key elements of the company eligible for protection so to offer recourse in the event of infringement by others. Where To Trademark Once you have an idea of what you wish to trademark, it is vital to recognize the temporal and territorial limitations on the protection. Trademark registrations do not exist in perpetuity; they run the risk of potential expungement (or expiration) if an owner fails to renew. In Canada, trademark protection exists in fifteen-year increments,


Business and the trademark owner must pay a fee at every renewal stage to keep the registration intact. Trademark rights are territorial in nature, and therefore, Canadian registrations provide protection in Canada alone. For protection in other countries, it is necessary to file applications in those respective regions. It is advisable to narrow down and identify the most critical territories in which to seek protection, and then expand your international trademark portfolio as you grow. Where you choose to register first will depend on a variety of factors, including where you intend to develop, manufacture, distribute, buy and sell your products. You should work with your trademark lawyer to assess what countries of interest should be prioritized in your trademark strategy. How To Trademark Seeking trademark protection is not just filing the respective application and then subsequently receiving your desired protection. It is imperative that thorough research is done by your trademark agent or

attorney, typically referred to as clearance searches, to identify current trademarks that may limit your ability to secure registration. These searches go beyond just reviewing the trademark register in question, and often include a review of international trademark registers as well as common law sources to give an idea of what else is out there. By being thorough, you as an entrepreneur allow yourself to recognize what potential pitfalls your registration may be subject to, and in some cases, identify whether the need to modify your strategy to avoid these encumbrances is necessary. If the clearance searches recognize an opportunity for registration, then your agent can submit the application for registration with the subsequent fee; it is important to note that the process from submitting the application to obtaining a certificate of registration may take anywhere from 12 to 24 months. Who Can Trademark An entrepreneur can file their trademark application, but, as always, it is best to seek the advice of a legal professional with

extensive experience in trademarks when developing your trademark strategy. This can be either a trademark lawyer or a trademark agent, and often, many lawyers practice as both. At ACE Legal, we work closely with our clients in the fashion industry to develop effective trademark strategies that focus on protecting your brand, goodwill, and reputation. Building a fashion empire relies upon establishing an identity that resonates with consumers, and through the creation of an effective trademark strategy, we work to prevent third-parties from capitalizing off your goodwill for their benefit and make it a priority to put your brand in a position to succeed.

Hashim Ghazi

Not usually sporting a full head of hair, Ghazi is and the Founder of ACE Legal. The Toronto-based law firm focuses on providing legal services to entrepreneurs in the fashion industry with respect to their business, intellectual property, media and technology law needs. You can reach him at hashim@ace-legal.com

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Monday Girl convenes Chatter & Inspiration

for a night of

T

Images by The Lilac Media Group

he Fashion Gala was presented by Monday

Girl and Dress for Success Toronto in early September. The event brought together close to 200 women for a night of glamour and intellect. Armed with intellect prowess, the fashionsavvy crowd participated in a fun-filled night of style and meaningful discussion. Four inspiring women shared their career struggles, successes, and biggest lessons: Connie Chan (Warner Music Canada), Lexi Miles (WAXON Wax Bar), Mel Hwang (Blogger), and Nancy Chen (Otto's Bierhalle).

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It was a night to foster career connections and discuss the latest in workplace wear: a discussion that focused on building a career, following life passions and - most importantly - dressing to impress. A healthy collection of donated professional clothing, alongside all of the proceeds, supported Dress for Success Toronto. Who is Monday Girl? A thriving community of over 500 Toronto women, Monday Girl is a nonprofit initiative co-founded by Rachel Wong and Istiana Bestari, April 2017. Through modern

Rachel & Istiana


Social Report and more. The organization is dedicated to offering workshops, and activities focused on supporting its own members’ entrepreneurial ambitions, career development as well as success outside of work interests.

Blogger Mel Hwang

networking and community building events, it works to provide young women with opportunities to grow their professional networks in friendly and welcoming environments. From up-and-coming entrepreneurs to avid side hustlers, Monday Girl delivers a platform for every woman looking to succeed. The support network offered comes to life through their Facebook active group by bringing information that range from job opportunities, recommendations for careers, products and trips to Toronto event invites

The Executive Team

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from October The 16th

TORONTO

to October The 20th

Our Favourite Fashion Week of Toronto

600+ guests attended events in Toronto during Startup Fashion Week (SFW) to be part of a growing network of fashion enthusiasts and entrepreneurs. The highly successful five-day event provided a platform for emerging designers and fashion-tech startups to increase visibility through networking events, conferences and a prestigious runway show. In its fourth year, SFWdrew in participants from across Canada as well as guests and sponsors from the US and the UK. Reads their press release, October 24, 2017

FORWARD's

Volunteer of the Year

See on page 40

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Social Report

Opening Party The Opening Party brought together a frenzy of well-dressed and passionate individuals from as near as Queen St W and as far as the United Kingdom. All in attendance ogled over the booth of EMY Amor where they could try on the luxurious chain wear, touch the recycled furs and oriental silks, and flip through the glamorous lookbook. While Beauty Loft Agency provided free manicures, The Giftery booth introduced the crowd to the GLOV, promising it would remove all makeup and provide benefits to the skin. The same table dazzled attendees with their glittered, vegan makeup brushes. The upand-coming Tap2Tag Connect team introduced the future of in-person networking, while the Hypnotiq liqueur brand handed out healthy sized samples of a deliciously fruity cocktail. Models socialized in pieces of the week’s featured designers for a sneak-peak at what the runway show would bring.

Business of Fashion Conference: Keynote and Fireside Chat The Business of Fashion Conference took place in the luxurious offices of Aird & Berlis LLP on Bay St and offered a complimentary range of quality beverages and hors d'oeuvres. Hosted by the wonderfully kind Elle Bulger, the evening presented insight on a variety of topics essential to entrepreneurs. These included the importance of the growing Chinese market, preventing issues through legal preparations, and recognizing opportunities when they present themselves.

Future of Fashion Forum & Networking The Future of Fashion Forum was well organized to serve as a mustattend event for anyone seeking success in the fashion industry. A panel of 3 professionals in the business of fashion discussed their point of views and experience in the ever-changing world of fashion tech, followed by a keynote speaker offering insight into wearable tech. Lastly, two start-up company leaders shared their opinion on how their innovative products will shape the future of fashion tech. Perhaps most impressive was the flawless and wellmannered hosting of Electric Runway’s Amanda Costco. However, the most critical thing that attendees took away is that retail is changing; the way in which we sell in malls is dead and will soon face the same fate at Sears. If retailers are not already evolving, they will quickly die out.

Eco-Fashion Forum Sustainability and ethical fashion were thrust into the spotlight when SFW 2017 added the new segment “Eco-fashion Forum” to their event list. Bringing together knowledge from industry experts lent valuable understanding around circular fashion, practices in sustainable style chains, and the social and cultural aspects of fashion. Discussions ranged from social and environmental impacts to making sustainable fashion mainstream in Canada, and to building ecological and ethical fashion solutions for business. All in attendance received the great benefit of ease in understanding how to engage with sustainability as fashion professionals.

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Runway Held at Daniels Spectrum, the standing-room-only runway showcase presented collections from Canadian designers.

from SFW's most promising Canadian fashion startups. Some of which proudly demonstrated their approach to eco and ethical fashion. Reads their press release.

A range of ready to wear, swimwear and evening wear with an array of colour and texture is what the audience experienced

Forcasting the Futre of Fashion The runway showcase’s success was largely due to the work of volunteers and sponsors who collaborated as models, hairstylists and make-up artists coming from different locations and varying levels of experience to participate. Sponsor Kim Du, owner of Kim Du Salon in Yorkville has been aligned with SFW for four consecutive years supporting the startup fashion community. Du provided mentorship this year to students from Hamilton's MARCA College of Hair and Aesthetics in order to work as a team to prepare models for the show. 30


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his year, Startup Fashion Week hosted The Future of Fashion Forum and a Business of Fashion Conference where a number of keynote speakers, panelists, and industry leaders came together before influencers and students alike to speak about where the Canadian fashion industry is heading and how to make it in the city. The consensus between the two days concluded that offline would become the new luxury as fashion tech is only at the beginning of its growth, and Canada, its leader. The brick and mortar of retailers will need to completely change the way it operates as consumers exponentially transfer to a preference of online shopping. While the offline experience should be an engaging extension to e-commerce, the national problem lays in the absence of Canadian retailers online, while those present need to resolve some existing barriers to their consumers.

So what do we see in the future of Canadian and international fashion? Where do professionals need to focus and what do consumers need to demand? Most importantly, where are the opportunities for employment and innovation?

E-Commerce Project Manager Darryl Julott of Digital Main Street provides a matchmaking service to mainstream businesses by connecting them to the education and tools needed to boost their e-commerce. During the Tuesday’s Future of Fashion Forum, he talked about how small shops - without the brand recognition to draw in provincial-wide customers - are able to use e-commerce to reach a global audience, rather than being contained to a small space. Much unlike opening an ice cream shop on the harbourfront boardwalk of Toronto, like Ed’s Real Scoop, opening a niche boutique in Downtown Toronto does not depend on its geography for consumers. In fact, unless their brand recognition hits big in Toronto, like Courage My Love or The Peace Collective, the boutique may easily be overlooked. Not to mention that commercial rentals are not cheap in Toronto. Gary Marr writes in the Financial Post: “At $59.17 per square foot, rents for Class A space in Canada’s largest city place puts it in the competitive company of places like New York where similar space was $84.91 per square foot in the first quarter of 2017… Toronto rents are expected to climb to $88.76 per square foot over the next three years.” (May 17. 2017). The success story of London Calling on Carlton Street came to the Forum’s attention at Julott’s mention of how the niche inventory of British products sells globally after creating an e-commerce platform for its sales.

However, consumers don’t need an experience for these products. In fashion and beauty, this is not so. In her presentation, Co-Founder Kristy Wieber of Rent Frock Repeat explained that regardless of the strides her team took to provide customers with risk-free dress sizing, her customers continued to ask if they may try on their favourite pieces. Using a variety of models with different heights, shapes, and

One must establish a personalized size chart on this software through obtaining each designer’s unique garment patterns which are sent first into the supply chain, which may in turn slightly alter the pattern. In the end, the cost may not seem worth the effort to many shops for this service, and until we exclusively shop online as consumers, the panel sees this software available to luxury stores far before its more affordable counterparts.

sizes in their body were meant to close this gap, but Wieber explained that the need to feel, touch, and try on garments in fashion was far from dead and something that the online world was far from replacing.

Far from perfect as well, the online atmosphere makes shopping in large inventory stores frustrating to customers. Kirsten Mogg, writer and contributing editor

In an attempt to close this gap of the fitting room, Camille Kowalewski (Head of Communications of eBay Canada) suggested a future of Augmented Reality (A.R.) personal shoppers to the online consumer. A.R. uses digital layers on top of reality (like Snapchat filters or Pokemon Go) explained Amanda Cosco, Founder of Electric Runway. A.R. is often confused with Virtual Reality (V.R.) which including wearable technology. The main obstacle is that in order to accurately create that experience, the software would need each designer’s personal size chart. Just as a size 8 in H&M is an entirely different fit than a size 8 in Levi’s, even a different garment of the same size in the same store may have a very different fit. The Gap and Google suffered the challenge of different fabrics and cuts in apparel when teaming up to replace fitting rooms for online shoppers with their A.R. “Fit” Robot. It’s Me 3D is a V.R. avitar that - among other things - allows consumers to “try on” clothing while shopping online. But how accurate is this fitting?

of TRENDS Magazine, explained that ecommerce stores are unable thus far to allow for efficient browser-based shopping that thrives in brick and mortar stores. It is an issue of being overwhelmed by choice through an “endless aisle” where instead of allowing products to catch the shopper’s eye, the customer must know precisely what they are seeking. Kowalewski used this opportunity to market her employer eBay to the room, promising that the multinational e-commerce corporation is about to become an Etsy-like host that allows all types of sales (not just handmade and vintage items as Etsy’s claim to fame). If she is right, we can expect a comeback of eBay’s spotlight. However, with the concept of physical malls changing, that of the “online malls” is too and it will not be long before hosts like Amazon, eBay, and Alibaba will need to re-strategize or be left in the dust. It is a future that they are well aware of as Amazon is working to bring Alexa Voice Service of control and Magic Leap’s “mixed reality” to the global bazaar, though we are still unclear as consumers what these services will actually do for our lives.

Opposite Page Designer Encircled Photographer Tyrone Mitchell 31


The race for the perfect online marketplace is underway, but it may be some years yet before we celebrate its success. Barriers include being able to flawlessly connect the brick and mortar stores with their e-versions, especially with inventory synchronization and the estimation of sales which, in turn, ties strongly to sustainability issues. Beyond the issues of synchronization, there is the reliability of shipping a product, including the delivery wait or extra duties charge that often accompanies the promise of “Free Shipping.” No one understands the issues of shipping, return, and tax rates like a Canadian. Canadians are in the global lead for social media activity and online banking, but far from the top of e-commerce hosting. The Canadian problem lies that while online consumers are growing, Canadian retailers are slow to adapt. One of the most significant barriers to Canadian e-commerce presence is the shipping and handling costs to both businesses and customers alike. Reporters Lynda Steele and Sandra Hermiston of CTV Vancouver looked into why shipping service through Canada Post is so expensive in comparison to its American counterparts but were denied an interview with the company (February 3, 2015).

This being said, the power of communicating through social media cannot be underestimated. How consumers share their inspirations and purchase their wardrobes has evolved and will continue to do so. No longer are magazines the driving force of style; in its place is a continual conversation through our cyber-selves. As a more personal style of communication than its literary past, cyber-sharing is a growing customization of ones personal brand.

Wieber noted that she and her partner ended up with a completely different customer than they had initially expected. Instead of an online interaction of fussing over designers, women lined up at their pop-up events whom merely wanted to look good for an event without the associated stress and cost. Reading “Can I try it on?” over and over again on their e-commerce platform, Rent Frock Repeat decided it was time to set up a permanent location.

Founder Eli Brown of ShineTheLightOn explained at the conference that Key Opinion Leaders (KOLs) are the most vital marketing tool for small businesses as they prove to be more efficient than advertising. KOLs are seen as experts in their field to their audience, as is rockstar siblings The Prep Guy & Gal (Syed & Sara Sohail) of our very own city to style.

Brick and Mortar

KOLs work wonderfully in partnership with brands because their audience is a narrow audience (in other words, of the same interests) that trusts the Leader's opinions.

The good news is Canadian e-commerce may have a substantial future with China, outweighing associated businesses’ costs. With over 650 million social media users, China hosts the most massive quantity of social media users. Halfway around the world, the #1 app is WeChat which can host

When a particularly influential person interested in becoming an ambassador for ShineTheLightOn approached Brown, he had to follow his mission against the promotion. ShineTheLightOn actively raises awareness and funds for mental health and stigma. While the Social Leader was supportive of the mission, Brown’s team decided to push for full authenticity by working exclusively with KOLs that have experience living with or around the issue. It is vital to find authentic brand ambassadors and KOLs that genuinely believe in a particular brand, says Brown, because followers hate paid blogger pitches.

verified brand accounts (like Instagram). This platform easily enables conversation

Even the most influential KOLs support your

between global online companies and the Chinese market, explained Business

business, an influencer can only sell a single idea or a couple of products. It is instead the

Development Director Anna Zhao of TorontoSNAP.

brand identity which harbors the ability to sell a whole collection and retain loyal support. A company’s social media presence is its conversation with the world, but it is just one small part of e-commerce that many wing-it insta-shops fail to engage.

Hosting an e-commerce on a social media platform is not easy, however, warns Julott. While Instagram makes it simple to create a platform on which to reach an active consumer to sell fashion, he noted that many individuals try to monetize their

Beyond new advertising opportunities (Snapchat) and direct links to purchase

audience without the education, knowledge, or professionalism to succeed. Influencers begin a “business” through the social

(Instagram), brands can now tell an intriguing story or share their product or service process with their customers. Most

application and fail to follow through with a strategized plan.

importantly, says Wieber, companies can listen to their customers without difficulty.

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There is no doubt that we are experiencing a changing point in storefront history. As online consumerism grows, the lack of knowledge of the tools needs to maintain a thriving brick and mortar shop is more apparent than ever; no previous business course or help-book will be of assistance to corporate or small business owners. Adapting to the market changes is always the key to success. The innovative professionals that study the direction of business in fashion push their sense of urgency in creating change promptly, but are retailers listening? “Many retail brands talk about gamechanging innovation but what we see are lukewarm iterations of existing concepts and old ideas. Retailers, it seems, lack the will or sense of urgency to effect significant and radical change,” writes Stephens (Sept 5, 2017). A businesses’ self-destructive attitude lays in its neglect to fully realize the value of a brand’s emotional relationship with its consumers. Wieber reminded the conference

Opposite Page Look 1 Designer Koda Nivoli, Photo Credit Jim Orgill; Look 2 Designer U.N.I., Photo Credit Jim Orgill; Look 3 Designer DAMASSIA, Photo Credit Jim Orgill; Look 4 Designer Helen Oro, Photo Credit Mike Sukhram; Look 5 Designer Archipelago, Photo Credit Jim Orgill; Bottom Left Designer U.N.I., Photo Credit Jim Orgill; Bottom Right Designer Archipelago, Photo Credit Jim Orgill


01

Top 5 Looks 03 02

04

05

SHINE Award Angelica dos Santos

The SHINE Award of FORWARD Fashion Toronto serves as recognition to a model that truly stood out on the runway. Angelica dos Santos glided down the ivory cat walk with equal skill and confidence ... and a hint of dance in her step. Angelica's contagious smile shined without fail during each strut down the runway, gaining new life during her effortless poses for the line of photographers. 33


"People shouldn't underestimate the talent or potential of Canadian fashion startups because we have proven they are able to succeed."

llo e f d o o Jodi G

w

Executive Producer of SFW

Top Left Designer Helen, Oro Photo Credit Jim Orgill; Middle Left VIP Seats, Photo Credit Vai Yu Law; Bottom Left Designer Vesika Pisces, Photo Credit Tyrone Mitchell; Top Right Designer Vanessa of Vanika Design, Photo Credit Jim Orgill; Bottom Right Designer DAMASSIA, Photo Credit Jim Orgill

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audience that to succeed; a company must both make its margins and listen carefully to its customers. However, the right questions to ask one’s customers is drastically

substantial obstacle in creation is that it must always be flexible and comfortable to wear.

changing from customer service to customer experience.

technology are always carrying around our phone, so it seems a waste for designers to ignore the opportunity to bring that advancement to the consumer’s wardrobe.

Through the study of customer behaviour, the forum panelists do not doubt that a different type of brick and mortar shop must be created for the offline experience to merely survive. In the future of the offline store, it will not be enough to survive; a company must thrive through offering an extension of its website and provide an elevated experience. It has to make the customer want to visit a store over and above the convenience of its online option. And with city commercial rates increasing, a business must make every square foot count without overwhelming its customers. Cosco covers a Chicago pop-up store through Electric Runway and discovers the possibilities of the brick and mortar future. It’s shapeshifting walls customize to current inventory needs, interactive mirrors and tables provide information and purchases through electromagnetics embedded in the products, and change rooms lower from the ceiling when needed. “As the lines separating our digital and physical worlds begin to blur, it only makes sense that the distinction between bricks and clicks is dissolving,” says Cosco. We could not agree more! The store of the future will use technology on a higher level than its products. Fashion Tech: NFC Near Field Communication President & CEO Peter Kallai of intelliFLEX Innovation Alliance gave a keynote presentation on wearable technology at the Business of Fashion Forum. The Canadian national company grasps wearable technology as the future of apparel and accessories, and partners with innovators to work through their production line from manufacturing materials to finishing the application of a product. In connecting the ordinary objects, wearable technology can be printed, embedded in the thread, or added on as a layer, but the most

Even those of us that try to take breaks from

Before you dismiss wearable tech as a purely entertaining additive (like Inlighten’s fantastic apparel line by designer Eddy Song), consider the accessibilities opportunities that can enable the customer experience. Graduate student Scott Novich and students at Rice University developed a Versatile Extra-Sensory Transducer (VEST) which allows the hard of hearing to feel the music. Closer to home, Montreal’s emerging designer Mahtab Azizsoltani created IZOL UV, a chemical-free, light and breezy clothing collection with the guaranteed ability to block 98% of the sun’s rays (versus only 7% of ordinary clothes). Canada is now #5 in the top 10 global innovation hotspot list for wearable electronics, according to Lux Research, and has an abundance of opportunity for innovation and employment. While product sales focused on accessories for medical, sports, and wellness needs, the option for fashion and textiles is an incredible occasion. Authentic or Not Founder and CEO Ahmer Beg has created an encryption module to solve counter-fitting fashion, a trillion dollar global industry. The company incorporates a multifunctional chip into clothing and accessories, often located under the logo. Beyond verifying authenticity, the chip can provide an experience to the wearer, such as a thrilling video or access to a particular club. Specific to the brands, the chip will allow them to gain a collective picture of what people are wearing and when they are wearing it. (On Wednesdays, we wear pink!) Deeper into the Internet of Things (IoT, the digitization of everyday objects), Keith Beckles joined the forum panel to discuss his role as Director of Sale in the emerging Tap2Tag company. Imagine a single card that allows you to network with colleagues, hold your health and emergency information, and even pay for your dinner. Safer than an expensive phone, the

extension of Tap2Tag, Tap2Tag Connect, now allows you to switch between a card, bracelet, or even a ring to use your cloud of information in your everyday activities. The best part? If lost, you can simply cancel your device, and you’re not out hundreds of dollars. Beckles sees the most significant barrier to tech innovation as personal security, and therefore the goal of any tech device as working towards seamlessness by removing the friction between real and virtual life, which is mainly around security. Another goal of fashion tech would include the self-replenishment of products, agreed the forum panelists. Similar to how your new printer will order ink on your behalf once it begins to get low, your Amazon subscription may automatically send you toilet paper after a determined period. Stephens writes that “ecommerce will no longer be something we do but rather something that just is,” (Sept 5, 2017). However, this idea is not without its faults: Consumers are becoming more conscious about the waste that the apparel industry creates, but the growth of fashion tech may further harm sustainability practices. With more electromagnetic devices and the hardware that products and brick and mortar shops will require, there may be more pressure on mining for minerals than ever before.

The Conclusion Far from its peak, the escapade of online shopping is only just beginning as its convenience has not yet outcome the barriers consumers still face. Rest assured that your favourite online retailers are racing towards a conclusion, attempting to create flawless synchronization and bridge the gap of “But will it fit me?” Don’t be surprised, however, if an as-yetunheard-of company comes crashing through as our new go-to online experience. As for now, The Eaton Centre (and other malls) as we know it has a few more years left to squeeze out before they too must reinvent themselves. Shopping malls of the future will be places to experience brands, not shop for products. The experiences must be an exciting 35


36


Social Report extension of the website to draw in consumers. To maintain complete control over these experiences, brand stores (Kate Spade) will replace retail stores (Nordstrom). In this shift, retailer jobs will change as well. No longer will your local mall retail job offer minimum wage and be largely lenient about the staff performance. Retail industry futurist and founder of Retail Prophet, Doug Stephens writes for Business of Fashion. In

Opposite Page Left Designer Archipelago, Photo Credit Tyrone Mitchell; Middle Designer DAMASSIA, Photo Credit Tyrone Mitchell; Right Designer DAMASSIA, Photo Credit Jim Orgill

his article To Save Retail, Let It Die, Stephens writes “Any human being that doesn’t generate added value, either through creativity, expertise or intuition will be expendable.” (Sept 5, 2017). Retail will not be the only job to shift in the future of the fashion industry drastically. Fashion Tech is only in its premature stages, with Canada as part of the global forefront. Software development and engineering will

Page 30 Top The People That Made It Possible, Photo credit Jim Orgill; Left middle Designer Helen Oro on model, Photo Credit Mike Sukhram; Bottom left Photo credit Mike Sukhram; Bottom middle Vendor table of EMY Armor, Photo credit Tyrone Mitchell; Bottom right Photo Credit Jim Orgill

lead the innovation of our future in style and wearables. If you thought of fashion as a dying down industry, you couldn’t be more wrong. More than ever before, fashion will be at the forefront of innovation and required creative individuals to bring their unique education to the table.

Page 31 Top left Designer Helen Oro, Photo Credit Mike Sukhram; Top right Photo credit Mandy Hunter; Middle Hostess Elle Bulger, Photo Credit Jim Orgill; Bottom panel discussion, Photo Credit Jowel V

r a Penny for their Thoughts l l o D

Thinking of creating your own success in the fashion industry? Here are some tips to success from the discussions!

> Kristy Wieber, Co-Founder of Rent Frock Repeat, offered her personal keys to success including to create a plan A, B, and C, but remain flexible, all the while surround yourself with mentors and inspirations.

> Collaboration is the Canadian culture and the secret to success, concluded host Elle Bulger, Director of Pinch Social and host of the Business of Fashion Conference. Her conclusion was in summary of Jason Cameron’s speech on building the Toronto Fashion Academy as the CoFounder and CEO.

> Philanthropist and reality television star Joan Kelley Walker gave a lighthearted and humourous speech as she explained her hesitation to star on Real Housewives of Toronto. “At one point I thought, What am I doing?” she joked to the audience, but Walker explained the importance of using one's privilege and the platforms available to promote where one's passion lays. Her keys to success included fostering an eagerness to learn, paying your dues, building industry relationships, and showing your kindness and pure intention.

> Regardless of the venture, both Founder & Executive Producer Jodi Goodfellow of Startup Fashion Week and Corporate Lawyer Graham Topa of Aird & Berlis LLP warned the panel audience in the Business of Fashion Conference to have one’s legal representation secured before sinking oneself far into an idea. Legal consultations can prevent problems which entrepreneurs, in particular, are vulnerable to in the business world.

37


B

Alisa Lim

ehind the extravaganza of the runways and the glamour of the front row, there is an army of invisible faces who bring the magic to life. Each detail is debated and carried out by the working pulse that holds the day's intentions, breathing life into your favourite fashion events.

Raising awareness of the contributions they make in fashion communities is a critical dimension. We at FORWARD are enormously appreciative of their continued steadfast support and have created our own awarded title to recognize individuals that continuously go above and beyond their volunteer duties in our city.

Who is Alisa?

FORWARD met the dedicated Alisa Lim during the Opening Party of Startup Fashion Week Toronto, this past autumn.

The Business Administration student works as the IGNITE student government Vice President of Humber College and Guelph Humber University. Endlessly addressing students concerns and being a representation of their collective voice by day, Alisa seizes her passion for fashion by exploring fashion event volunteer opportunities by night.

Lim tells us, “It was an honor to share the limelight with the rest of the Startup Fashion Week (SFW) team to take delight in the success of SFW 2017. The enriching experience started with a simple online search for 'volunteer opportunities in fashion.'

Above, STARTUP FASHION WEEK Lights, music, curtains! Organizing the runway rehearsal, directing models to the catwalk. Photographer Guido Lanetta.

Above, TOM "Knowing the joy of what it is like to work on the back end, it is a role I want to continue till years to come." - Alisa

Right, FASHION ARTS TORONTO [FAT] April 18-22, 2017 "This was one of my very first fashion event volunteer experiences in Toronto. It certainly lit the fire to my passion. Taking any roles available-prepping the venue that included assembling the runway, painting walls, setting up art, organizing rooms, to running in between dressing rooms for quick changes, to assisting designers in crisis, and organizing and directing models to the runway-a huge learning experience." 38

"From assisting with model auditions, addressing ad-hoc problems, being a part of the opening party, to working as the production assistant manager... this was one of my greatest experience thus far.�

Top portrait photos by Jim Orgill at Startup Fashion Week Toronto 2017


39


Deeper Look

Helen 40


Meet the

First Nation

A c c e s s o ry D e s i g n e r whose b e a d w o r k

makes you feel like a

warior

goddess

Oro 41


M

eet Helen Oro: The woman that can make you feel like a Warrior Goddess. One of the women bringing a piece of the remarkable Canadian Indigenous culture to our thriving modern artform of glamourous wearable articles. Her dazzling accessories inspire its audience to reflect upon the vibrancy of a community which once thrived on the riches of earth and water.

We have seen the colorful beaded jewelry, but have we seen it all? We indulge in Helen Oro, the First Nation Accessories Designer who brings a new spin to the art of beadwork. Internationally recognized for her designs and artistic work, Oro aims to represent her people and culture through her passion for beading in her company Helen Oro Designs (HOD). In her hometown of Pelican Lake First Nation, Saskatchewan, Helen Oro began to create beaded footwear, sunglasses, clutches, and statement accessories. The work of her beautiful jewellery represents her strong culture alongside the tradition of the First Nations people. The empowerment put into each piece of HOD makes you feel like the ultimate personification of a strong woman. The accessory has become a crucial category in modern Western fashion. The

Designer Helen Oro

passion to satisfy the demand of the sophisticated fashion consumer is evident in Oro's statement, “Accessories to me is what eyebrows are to the face.” She believes in owning truly unique pieces that leave a lasting impression. When you wear HOD custom jewellery, you become a part of the larger creative process. Being a beaded artist is unique in itself; further accentuated by her incorporation of First Nation's traditional beadwork on modern accessories such as sneakers, heels, sunglasses and statement pieces. She calls herself “A freestyle artist,” one who doesn't use patterns or sketches to create, as defined by her. Simple things in life inspire her, whether it is spending time with her children, or watching movies or even if it is just a walk

42

outside to her vehicle. Every day is an

acknowledgment of her potential in the

inspiration.

fashion industry sparked her passion, growing into a full-blown fashion business.

She initially started beading to get back in touch with her Native roots while also using it

“Social media had played a huge role in

as a means to find patience for inner balance

building my brand before I even realized I

and strength (as the instant pace of modern

could make a living from my passion,” says

life has given way to impatience.) One of

Oro. She credits social media platforms as a

Oro's first handiworks was her beaded heels.

powerful tool that gave her the opportunity to

In the beginning of her art, she focused on

learn from her peers, mentors, and connect

pieces that she saw herself wearing. The

with many others for a great learning

brilliance of HOD caught the attention of

experience.

admiring audiences from fashion show producers to Instagram fans. The

“Social media is a vital asset when getting


into the fashion.� HOD is no stranger to Fashion Weeks, having showcased her collections all over the world. Startup Fashion Week 2017 (SFW17) was just one among her list. Oro described SFW17 as an enriching experience that strategically connected emerging fashion entrepreneurs with industry professionals. She talked highly of the educational conference and forums during the week as they provided terrific speakers and resources in helping passionate individuals succeed in the industry. It was during SFW17 that the unique potential of HOD stood out to FORWARD Fashion Toronto. Oro is also a mentor; She founded the HOD model crew, a group of aspiring Native models entering the fashion world. They travel the world with her, bringing their beautiful diversity to fashion events. There are rarely Native models represented during Fashion Weeks around the world. The HOD model crew helps to empower Oro's people, as well as open opportunities for Native models to grow within the industry. Her model crew has become the pioneering First Nations to walk the runway in many countries for their traditional Fashion Weeks. Helen Oro dreams and works to create a positive social image for Indigenous women by infusing her culture into HOD, sharing it appropriately while pushing it forward to the next generation.

Page 42 & 43 Designer Helen Oro, Photographers Kimball V Regier & CHELphoto, Hair Styling Kara Ruether, Hair Color Kelsie Kitzul & CHELsalonspa, Makeup Artist Trisha Soroka Molleken, Model Emily Luneng This Page at Startup Fashion Week 2017 in Toronto Top Photographer Tyrone Islington Bottom Photographer Jim Orgill 43


44

Designer Michelle @vesikapisces, Photographer Mike @msfoto.ca, Beauty Stylist Shareena @makeuphouz, Models D'ami @dammielle & Alexis @lexamour_ & Sherry @sherry_nicolle & Jess @jesskeffer & Weiwei @weiweiofficial_

Vesika Pisces


Unravel

Resort

Dream your best, luxe vacation in natural, breezy fabrics, statement bathing suits, stylish cover-ups, tropical dresses and even rompers. All by Vesika Pisces. Inspired by the painting The Dream by French painter Henri Rousseau, this editorial beautifully depicts nature's mystery: its contrasting beauty of power and grace with vulnerability and fragility. Vesika Pisces is an eco-luxe swim and resort collection inspired by Nature and Women. It is a timeless chic fashion look that wears for many seasons. The brand seeks to address social and environmental issues associated with the fashion industry. Through the use of natural, organic, recycled, and upcycled materials and components, Canadian designer Michelle Walmsley brings forward intricate details, vibrant prints, and unique embellishments to inspire harmony with nature while adorned in pieces designed to sweep you off your feet and into your dream gateway vacation. In the Summer of 2012, charity fashion event Butterflies and Flowers, Birds and Trees took place in Mineola, Mississauga. It was this event at which Vesika Pisces launched itself. The fashion show highlighted Walmsley's passion for raising awareness on the importance of protecting biodiversity. She is also the Citizen volunteer on the City of Mississauga's Heritage Advisory Committee, a committee helping to protect [her hometown] Halton and Peel Region's rich Natural Heritage. The fashion show demonstrated that two aspects of her contribution. The brand's foundation is created from its interconnectedness of life within its place in multiple ecosystems. The brand takes inspiration from nature's biodiversity and Indigenous cultures that work to live in harmony with Nature. 45


46


47


Textile Sunblock D

Anti-UV Clothing

oes a cotton shirt protect you from UV radiation? NOT AT ALL!

Despite your long sleeves, you may still be suffering from the early effects of UV damage. The bad news is that your current closet attire will not save your skin; The good news is that there is a brand which will. As we roll out IZOL UV clothing, it is time to bid goodbye to blistering sunburns, premature aging of the skin, and UV radiation skin disorders. IZOL UV Inc. is a Montréal based sun protective brand that provides anti-UV clothing, catering to the Canadian and global market since their launch in 2016. The brand's name is an adaptation of the designer's Iranian family name (Azizoltani) and evokes the idea of how clothing isolates (“IZOL”) and blocks unwanted UV rays.

Self-taught fashion designer Mahtab Azizsoltani hails her creation from her experience as a sensitive-skin shopper. After developing an intolerance to the sun, Azizsoltani found no product in practical clothing that suited her chic lifestyle. IZOL UV offers the unique combination of a high-end fashion appearance with the technology and comfort of sportswear. Shifting away from conventional to technical fabric, the brand uses cutting-edge technology to block 98% of damaging UV rays. Consumers no longer have to sacrifice style for protection of their skin. Azizsoltani explained to FORWARD that she was directed onto the path to "make fashion a career when my skin became intolerance to the sun." Her solution for herself became a solution for a global community both

48

suffering from the sun's damaging properties and seeking to prevent such. "By launching IZOL UV, I combined my two greatest passions: helping others around the

black," his bold work is meant to absorb, reject, and reflect light. In mirrored motivation, the pieces of IZOL UV absorb and reject UV rays, yet stray away from the darkness of black and opt for a monochrome

world, and sharing my artistic creativity,"

focus of blue which hails from the inspiration

Azizsoltani tells FORWARD.

of French artist Yves Klein.

While Soulages is known as "the painter of

Keeping the demand for durability, quality,


comfort, and protection at the heart of creation process, Azizsoltani pays particular attention to her fabrics ensuring optimal protection. Far from a tailored fit, the flowing design allows for a loose fit against the skin, making it breathable to provide maximum UV protection.(Anti-UV clothing protects better when worn as a loose fit than when the fabric is tight against the skin.) Azizsoltani's philosophy is not merely to offer a fantastic

product but to educate consumers on a healthy way of dressing.

Health

“Organic food - which was largely unknown a decade ago - has now become a consideration on everyone's plate. In the same way, I want to raise awareness about skin health and change our perception of wholesome dressing. In few years, I hope that anti-UV clothing will be as common as organic eatables!” says Mahtab Azizsoltani. The pillared mission of IZOL UV is to redefine certain aspects of what is considered “fashionable” through educating consumers and the fashion industry on the importance of sun protective clothing. Azizsoltani proactively builds relationships with charities and skin cancer awareness organizations.

With a deep-rooted support in the Canadian Skin Cancer Society, IZOL UV is exhilarated to be a part of Fashion Against Cancer in 2018.

The horizon of IZOL UV promises a new wave of concentration on ethical fashion and self-care.

Bottom Designer Mahtab Azizsoltani at work All Photos Provided By IZOL UV of the new collection, available for pre-order now. 49


A Versatile Fashion That Travels Light

Inspired by her days as

Kristi Soomer

the strategic management consultant with 100,000 flight miles a year under her belt, Kristi Soomer transformed her “carry-on only traveler” experience to a new brand: Encircled.

in the first ever piece by

Encircled

The sustainable women’s fashion brand is on a mission to help build a minimalist wardrobe full of your new favourite essential pieces. In the place of formal design training, Soomer's entrepreneurial ingenious - and pursuit to see more stylish and versatile clothing in women’s wardrobe - became her most significant competitive advantage. She turned the brand into an immediate success. Since the launch of their first ever piece, Chrysalis Cardi (the 8-in-1 cardigan/scarf/ dress), Encircled expanded exponentially. Today, one can shop from an entire collection of clothes that travel well. With pieces that either physically transform, or are easy to dress up or dress down, the versatility makes Encircled a must-shopspot. For the hard-working women, having a wardrobe that works for you can be an

Meet the

CHRYSALIS CARDI

enormous load off one's shoulders. Kristi feels confidence radiate in the elegance and function of Encircle that birthed its success. Her brand is one that gives women achieve endless possibility in one design.

allows customers to reserve their size and colour in our designs. The purchase ships approximately two weeks later. The model helps to maintain cash flow while creating excitement for our customers.

Encircled showcased their collection on the runway for the first time at the Startup Fashion Week 2017.

Full-Circle Fashion.

The Story. We design our pieces with the everyday woman, in mind. There is a shift in the relationship we have built with clothes; the focus on what women truly need in their closets is what sets us apart. Production of items that provide versatility, style, and functionality, without sacrificing their need for comfort is the goal. Each Encircled design presents the challenge: how can we do more with less? Relatively uncommon in the industry, Encircled does zero wholesale. The model sells almost entirely online, allowing an inventory of ethically made apparel from sustainable fabrics at competitive price points to consumers. With product demand exceeding supply, Encircled uses a unique pre-order model that

50

Full circle fashion is the idea of creating a great outfit without taking from the planet, people or community. It finds strength while maintaining high customer value. For Encircles, that means ethical labor (Made in Canada), sustainable fabrics, durability, and overall quality. Design Style. The design style of Encircled is seasonless and timeless with pieces that will last in a woman’s wardrobe year after year. All of the materials are sustainable blends of Modal, MicroModal, and Tencel. The fabrics used are biodegradable, low impact and use dyes free of harmful chemicals. The silhouettes are drapey, versatile and flattering to all body shapes and sizes. Brand Values. The design philosophy is simple: Less Is More. The Encircled values rest on the


foundation of sustainability and customer empowerment in a building a wardrobe of which to love for life.

function of a garment in ways that are often left undone. Social Media & Todays Fashion.

Wearing Encircled. The goal is for our customers to feel at ease and radiant with self-love. Ultimately, we want women to be proud of their wardrobes. Unique Designer. The fact that I have no formal design training has been my most significant competitive advantage. Although it is unconventional for a graduate of business administration to create a fashion line, it allows me to approach the collection through a unique lens. I am able to think outside of the lines of traditional design and challenge the construction and

The rise in popularity of social media impacts global fashion themes and focuses. Trends can live or die based on how influencers and Internet celebrities receive them. The same can be said for new companies - having influential backers can help grow sales without a doubt. Fashion Trends. At the beginning of Encircled, customers found an immediate attraction to the design concept and versatility. However, customers are seeking out Encircled in particular on an exponential scale because of the ethical manufacturing

practices and sustainable fabrics. I genuinely hope this is not a trend but instead a permanent consumer mindset shift to recognizing the negative impacts that fast fashion has created on our planet and its people. The concept of trends has never been a focus for the brand or me, personally. We strive to create timeless pieces, which are functional and elegant. Encircled outlast trends, while being wearable seven days a week. Brand Future.

Photos provided by Encircled.

The growth of the brand and expansion of our clientele while maintaining the pride of Encircled which is stylish, sustainable and ethical.

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Travel

BB rr aa zz ii ll

Beauty

The

Diversity

of

By Fredsonn Silva Aguda

Our “preoccupation” with beauty is actually an obsession of how we define beauty. However, the way in which we do this across the globe could not be more different. In the West, some of the most sought-after traits to describe beauty are: white, tall, skinny with long legs, busty with delicate features, and - of course - full lips. To celebrate the diversity of beauty across the cultures, here we memorialized what being "beautiful" means beyond our borders. In this far-flung destination of Brazil – exuberant with beautiful bronzed women adorned with long luscious hair and killer curves – we bring the gift of many different ideas of beauty as offered by great cultural and racial mixtures. A beauty that is incomparable and stands high on its own pedestal. Beauty as a concept is so subjective that it cannot be dictated; only edited. It is here, where we find the celebration of beauty in its multiple editions: all forms of shapes, colours, and sizes. For what seems like centuries, we have been dictated by the concept of beauty being an (ugly) regime as it excludes those who do not fit within the societal-established standard. Mainstream media embraces an exclusive Western image of beauty. Meanwhile, the rest of us who fit our individual models of beauty remain deleted from the scene of “being beautiful.” Underneath the superficial standards of “accepted beauty,” in the very name of the term we make ourselves acutely aware of the demanded truth in society: there are different types of aesthetics around the world that can be considered beautiful. With the boom of the Internet generation of bloggers, fashionistas, and youtub-ers, the stagnant paradigms of beauty are being challenged and quite successfully! The “perfect body” is gaining different proportions, as society starts to accept the beauty that resides in the diversity of its patterns, and in the variety of its colours. New generations are using the Internet as a useful tool to change

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the definition of beauty. A notable moment in time was the year 2014, when Tyra Banks, veteran fashion personnel, challenged the patterns by bringing to her show America's Next Top Model, a Canadian contestant with a skin condition vitiligo. Following, the arrival of Winnie Harlow opened the door of fashion modeling to a wider range of faces again. This is not to say that the fashion community has never enjoyed women outside the conventional model molds. Twiggy is a classic example of a petite body frame in the 60s; her unique look launched her modeling career. Kate Moss is another lovely woman with a striking face - eyes slightly ‘too big’ and even ‘too separated from each other - who, in spite of this, was to become one of the most famous models of her time. Regardless of their visible differences, they still fit the same trend of established fashion patterns that sported the Vogue-model. Rare instances occurred when the fashion norms had to succumb to the unbreakable talents of people outside of Vogue-model. They surrender and make way to allow for these talents to take their rightful position at the top. Grace Jones was one of those undeniable talents. Society still flinches to the fact that such an


outrageously “different” women had led the industry. Fortunately, with the passing of time, we are witnessing the more frequent apparition of models with different types of beauty. The beauty that was once ostracized for their visible differences, their so-called large size, freckles, crooked teeth or aquiline noses, their darker skin tones, or even their albinism. These are the very same faces that are reaching the top. Their uniqueness, their originality, and for their outstanding traits, these people create their own mold of ideal, on their own terms. They are now justly revered for the same qualities that once made them “ugly.” This phenomenon brings forward visible changes that create and fortify a new concept of beauty, one that is far more diversified than it has ever been; an inclusive concept that has made the fashion world a new realm of heterogeneity. There is no such a thing as “ideal beauty” because that which makes us beautiful is singlehandedly our differences. As such we find ourselves in Brazil, a beautiful country rich in cultural diversity that embodies the most intriguing beauty. It is one that doesn’t reside in the stagnant antiquated molds of aesthetics but in the celebration of individual's unique attributes.

Art Director Fredsonn Silva Aguda @fredsonnsilvaaguda, Photographer Maeli San @maelisan, Models Thuanny Galvao @thuannygalvao & Andreia Silva @andreia_65 & Yasmin Tomas @yasmin_tomas_, Makeup Sueli Santos @sueli.santos.7315, Production Jefferson Silva @jeffersonsilva, Production Assists Victor Borges @mvictorborges & Davi Tomas, Designer Romulo Salomao @romulosalomao12, Videographer Julio Sanchez Velo @chezvelo, Stylist Fredsonn Silva Aguda @fredsonnsilvaaguda 53


The

Traveling

Model

A

Look Inside the

Haute Journal of

rott Globe T

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ing Icon

e s i l r e m A i in


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ach of us dreams of world travel in our

future; an opportunity to experience diverse cultures, and find joy in exploration. For Fashion Models, travel is an invaluable tool to showcase their talents and work towards international recognition for their brand. It is the dream of such entrepreneurs to model in the major fashion capitals which today's most celebrated designers call home. For Nini Amerlise, the dream to travel worldwide has become a reality. From New York to Montreal, and from Washington DC to Jamaica, Nini has proved her talent beyond the borders of Toronto, the city she calls home. The self-motivated Canadian fashion model of Jamaican– Chinese descent humbly took the recognition of Supermodel Canada 2017. An award-winning model as seen in Vogue UK, Glamour Magazine, Veux Magazine, and Vogue Italia, Nini can also be seen in projects by Getty Images, Daily Mail UK, and Huffington Post. Just three years into the industry and Nini's brand as a fashion model has seen significant success across a number of reputable platforms. As with any other profession, a model must pay their dues and Nini has claimed her worth through Fashion Week runways, television features, print shoots and campaigns in magazines, and even being a voice of diversity in the fashion industry.

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Wa s h i n g t o n

Wa s h i n g t o n

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Travel FORWARD takes a closer look at the successful international model in her worldly travels. FORWARD [FW] What makes traveling so imperative to you? Nini Amerlise [NA] I travel because I love meeting new people, tasting new food,

"It was as though I had taken a trip back in time" dancing to diverse music, and embracing different cultures. It is amazing to observe, appreciate and enjoy all that God has created. FW What has been your most enriching travel experience as a model? NA My trip to NYC in July 2016. It was my first adventure alone to the big city; an enriching experience that made me grow both at a personal and professional level. The city opened my eyes to look at things

"It was my first adventure alone to the big city" career. FW What would you describe as your favourite destination to date? NA Washington D.C. It was as though I had taken a trip back in time. The historical and varying architectural style - from neoclassical, Georgian, gothic, to modern architectural styles - reflected in the buildings, it was a treat to my eyes! FW What would you say is the most fascinating place that you have stayed? NA My stay in Kingston, Jamaica was phenomenal. Luxury is not necessarily about the five-star rating. It can be about an unvarnished authentic experience amongst the people of the city. The cultural language, fashion, and music, combined with the scenery, made my stay an affair that was beyond glamor. To top it off, there was a photoshoot at one of Jamaica’s most beautiful locations, Hope Garden. A magical place, it is filled with alluring exotic flowers and plants, with rivers and streams quietly nestled between the gardens. FW What are the challenges you face in traveling for your career?

"The most significant challenge is being away from my family" with a broader perspective.

NA The most significant challenge of being a traveling model is being away from my

The drive and energy of NYC bolstered my self-confidence and taught me how to stay

family. I try my best to make up for lost time by doing as many activities with them,

poised for everything that is to come my way. The opportunity to work alongside a range of personality traits strengthened my trade skills. I continue to use this experience as fuel while I progress on the journey of my

whenever possible. FW What are your essentials on a long flight?

NA My sketchbook and journal. Inspiration floods my mind as I sit back and relax. I always bring earplugs for my sensitive ear. Occasionally, pillow and blanket for a cozy nap. FW Do you have a favourite look for when you are "off duty?" NA Afro loose and 'unapologetically free to do as it pleases!' If I’m not in the Afro mood, I

"Luxury is not necessarily about the five-star rating" usually go for a high puff bun with loose fitted track pants and a tight t-shirt. To finish the look, I typically toss in a pair of Adidas slippers with high socks. FW What are the most valuable lessons you have learned in your career as a model? NA That the job is not about looking glamorous and pretty all the time. Instead, it is about staying true to ourselves and becoming all that we have been created to be. Whether we realize it or not, models take on the position of a role model, [whether they wish to be or not]. Although models are hired to be a canvas to designers or creative teams, we must always remember to embrace our true selves. Be

Pages 56 - 58 Photographer Antwon Maxwell @antwonmaxwellphotography, Wardrobe Stylist Marcia Maxwell, Makeup Artist Nini Love Artistry @NiniLoveArtistry 57


Jamaica 58


Travel fearless and unafraid to shine our lights. We must not let the scars of our past define us, but rather, we should use these as tools of inspiration. We must remember that we are not limited to our history; we have the power to rise above our failures and struggles. Regardless of who we are, we are all designed for greatness, and ultimately it is up to us to unlock our greatness. FW How would you best describe your lifestyle? NA Spreading love and enjoying the journey, regardless of the many hurdles which I may face. I have learned not to regret any of my mistakes in life. Instead, I use my obstacles to help encourage others not to give up. Meet new people and learning new ways on

"Regardless of who we are, we are all designed for greatness, and ultimately it is up to us to unlock our greatness." how to grow as humans is also a large part of my lifestyle. The fashion industry has provided the soil for this vision of mine to flourish. FW Have you decided the next city to which you are destined? NA Yes - Lagos, Nigeria in early 2018. I am super excited, as Africa has always been on the top of my voyage wishlist. The land is so rich, diverse, and filled with sunshine. Supporters can watch the journey on my YouTube channel, titled “The Nini Chronicles.�

Opposite and This Page Photographer Gemini Duncan, Makeup Artist Nini Love Artistry @NiniLoveArtistry, Wardrobe Stylist @NiniStyle.Co 59


New York New York 60


Travel

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Travel FW Do you have any important traveling tips to leave with our readers? NA Travelling Tip 101 - always prepare a traveling kit consisting of the following: Your portfolio; toiletries; blanket; towel; novel; journal; pen; coin pouch; aloe gel for insect bites; anti-bacterial wipes; moisturizer; facial wash; makeup kit; healthy snacks; phone; charger; neutral undergarments; hair products. Try to pack a ready-to-go travel bag in advance to alleviate stress during on-call bookings.

Be a part of Nini's Journey! Instagram @Nini_4u

Facebook @NiniAmerlise Twitter @NiniAmerlise

Youtube @NiniAmerlise Website

www.NiniAmerlise.com

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Page 62 Photographer Olga Hustul of @OlgaHutsulPhotography | Page 63 Top Photographer Regisaurus; Middle Designer Grandma Funk @grandmafunk_, Photographers @Stephanator & @tr_akodaeye; Bottom Designer Ki Clothing, Photographer Pics by Shiloh | Page 64 Top Designer Grandma Funk, Photographer @Stephanator & @tr_akodaeye; Bottom Photographer Olga Hustul of @OlgaHutsulPhotography | This Page Designer Ki Clothing, Photographer Pics by Shiloh | For all photos in New York Makeup Artist Nini Love Artistry @NiniLoveArtistry, Wardrobe Stylist by @NiniStyle.Co

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& more designers take stage at

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Wallo by photographer Che Rosales; Photographer Olga Hutsul for Canada 150, Claire Lemaitre-Auger, Stephen Caras, Zoran Dobric


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NAME

NAME

JOSH TASSONI

NAME

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MARILYN BROOKS

C A N A DA 1 5 0


Claire Lemaitre-Auger

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Stephen Caras

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Zoran Dobric

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Designer @zobamartin Stylist @ivie_ose Model @jkmodelsandtalent

Designer @zobamartin Stylist @ivie_ose Model Debbie A.

Designer @zobamartin Stylist @ivie_ose Model @jkmodelsandtalent

Coordinated by WearMeMrLexx (Fashion Photographer/Stylist Felix M and Creative Director Kandace L)

B a t t l e o f T h e D e s i g n e rs takes you into the high stake world of creativity with a runway showcase featuring seven designers.

Designer @zobamartin Stylist @ivie_ose Model @jkmodelsandtalent

Designer @Popsauvageclothing Makeup Artist @gkamazani Model @__honeybenjamin

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As the Designers squared off in a tworound battle runway show performance during the launch of the annual event on 18 November 2017 - the artistry attracted the attention of Visual Lens photographer Aniqa R.

Designer Green Dress Designs Hair Stylist Ech Bernard of Dem Studios

Designer @zobamartin Stylist @ivie_ose

Designer @zobamartin Stylist @ivie_ose Model @jkmodelsandtalent


Tumbler and Tipsy by Michael Kuluva N Y F W 2 0 1 8

Take a familiar trip down the creative lane of Kuluva as captured by the traveling lens of Olga Hutsul Photography. Here is a look at the S/S 2018 runway collection featured at STYLE360 NYFW which was closed by transgender nightlife diva Amanda Lepore with grandiose.

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The

Peggy Sue Collection Fashion Becoming a

Force for Good

Photographer Emily Neill 72


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F

O R W A R D m a k e s a jo u r n e y a lo n g t h e a d v e n t u r e la n e o f P e g g y S u e w h ile s h e h a n d c r a f t s

C a n a d ia n h e r it a g e lu x u r y in c lo s e h a r m o n y w it h t h e e a r t h , t h e lo c a l c o m m u n it y , a n d w it h t h e w e ll- b e in g o f f u t u r e g e n e r a t io n s a t h e a r t .

Peggy Sue's story reads like the monograph of Henri Matisse - the great colorist known for the art of “balance, purity, and serenity” while penetratingly superfluous with the poetic thought and imagination similar to that of leading poet of the avant-garde, Thomas Eliot. It is tempting to detect the aesthetic and rhythmic language of Peggy Sue, eloquently expressed in the artistic creation of her designs. Taking visual inspiration from nature and people; the most subtle of details like plants and species, the social constructs, and human interaction with their surroundings, her collections echo her poetic eloquence and adroitness for fine art. Her thoughtful design juxtaposed with good textile draws out human nature. She takes into consideration the social context and how her pieces will be remembered by history as well as what it has to say about history in its present state. “Every answer begins with a question asked,” believes Peggy Sue, and her Collection reflects this belief, sewn into the heart of each piece created.

5 a.m. morning pilgrimages with her brother to the Pacific Ocean – Venice Beach, in particular. A poet at heart, the highly imaginative and creatively capable woman, found clothing as her choice of medium for expression. The essence of her creative eloquence can be detected in her personality as she tells FORWARD:

Do you hold a yellow rose for her? Then you will be in her life, forever. “Music is significant to me. It is poetry come to life when done right; a tool to unlock a moment as well as to harken back to a time,” Sue tells FORWARD. Even if born with the natural fluency for timeless design, one still needs to be armed with the skill set to excel in this cut-throat industry.

in its values.

“My color is orange. Cannot get enough of it. My tree of choice is eucalyptus. Cannot breathe that scent in enough. I will eventually retire to the Amalfi Coast cooking with garlic every day. Italy is where my soul came alive. I am a trained ballroom dancer. Love me some Argentine Tango. I’m a little awkward – you would more aptly find me reading a sci-fi book on a sandy beach on an overcast day, barefoot, toes in the sand, dodging Makers (with reference to Dune). Or running through a grassy field at daybreak while the air is still heavy with morning dew.”

The Genesis of PS Collection starts with Peggy Sue (PS). Born in Los Angeles, CA,

T.S. Eliot’s “The Hollow Men” is her mantra. M.C. Escher was a brilliant gift of a mind to

mom) for WalMart. PS helped build and test global supply chains for lines while working

the mathematical and design realm of Peggy Sue, articulating her love for calculus and complex logical theorems.

for billion-dollar corporation Li & Fung; designed for the Men’s SAKS Fifth Avenue House Line, and; started a profitable US Supply Chain based company in NY.

Can fashion be a force for good? Can sustainable supply chains produce wearable, fashion-forward, timeless garments that last a lifetime? Will consumers be compelled to ask questions? These are among the many inquiries PS Collection brings to the forefront of their business. PS Collection exists beyond the constraints of time and geography to give you a wardrobe that is elegant and trendy, yet bold

Sue is a trained fine artist who explores her artistic desires through large-scale renderings in charcoal and ink. Her inspiration in nature was set early on with her 74

PS studied costume, apparel, and fashion design at the Rhode Island School of Design (RISD) in Providence, RI. She further acquired certified knowledge with esteemed internships in the fashion cities of L.A., NY, Rhode Island, London, the UK for Roksanda Illincic, and McQueen. She worked her skills into the industry through various capacities, from Illincic’s London runway line; to costuming for theatre in Rhode Island, or; mass market, having launched Miss Tina (Beyonce Knowles’


More recently, 2015 brought the launch of PS Collection, a product of the grandeur of her innate creative mind seamlessly weaved together with the highest degree of her artistic skills, and her endeavor to practice sustainability. “A Canadian Based Company with a North American Supply Chain made up of remarkable individuals hand-selected by myself for their vigor, passion, and dedication to sustainability on all levels,” according to PS. Her belief in people and the sanctity of nature (that humankind wants to connect with one another on a species-specific level) radiates in her creative process. “It is my life’s goal and intention to create a safe space for people to connect with one another and nature in a way that protects and grows us relationally,” PS tells FORWARD. Wearing Peggy Sue is sheer poetry, like a slow art form that cannot be rushed or taken in half-heartedly. It is the elegance of “slow” fashion and the consideration of the creative process which is boldly reflective in her Atelier Experience (a curated experience that cultivates a relationship between the garment and her patron) that makes Peggy Sue the poet of style. Her holistic approach not only lets her customers wear her clothes but also makes them appreciate that their garments are as actively considerate as they are to their own lives. The potential of PS Collection has undoubtedly caught the attention of household media such Elle Canada, Lou Lou, Flare, and Toronto Star. It has received a number of notable accolades including the Toronto Fashion Incubator's New Label Award in 2016. Her strive for good textile and thoughtful design was acknowledged as she was awarded as the Winner of Design Forward - Canada's Sustainable Fashion Award 2017. Peggy Sue Deaven-Smiltnieks closed off the year with a bang as the winner of the Canada Emerging Designer Competition (EDC) 2017. Today, the brand prides itself on its craftsmanship, unique designs and 75


a brand synonymous with timeless elegance, ethical, luxury, exquisite craftsmanship, and quality

Photographer Ayze @ayzephoto, Designer Peggy Sue @peggysuecollection, Hair Stylist Jessy Resendes @browboutiqueandhair, Makeup Artist Chanelle Garcia, Models Ashe Victoria @ashevictoria & Kirsten Victoria Mackay of @spot6management, Farm Hockley Meadows 76


excellent service that is just as elegant as it is ethical: “The true essence of heritage luxury handcrafted in Canada.” Read as we uncover the story behind PS Collection, the brand revolutionizing the way in which we envisage fashion. The Origin of the Peggy Sue Collection. "I always believed my calling was to create high-end, avante-garde costumes for film. My time in school was exploring sculptural fashion using millinery techniques and architectural structures to create new shapes and forms for the body. When I graduated into the industry, it was at the lowest time of the financial recession and the world did not want art. The world wanted a cheaply made product that was trend and escapist based, and very ignorant of the human existence. "My naïve belief that the world understood art, and is aware of all the facets upon which it touches and serves, were contradicted. When we do not wake to the aspects of our every day that we rely upon, that is when those systems grow old, and in some cases, toxic. And that is exactly what the fashion industry has primarily grown to become: toxic. "Fashion has an incredible power for good. We wear clothing every day. It is in media. It is on the bodies we live in, the lives of

Photographer

AYZE

those we look at and interact with every day. It is in history. It works to define race, gender, tradition, age, technology, profession, and social context." You may not consider what you wear to be 'fashion,' but regardless, the fashion industry recognizes you as their audience. Whether it finds you an active participant or oblivious 77


Deeper Look

Awakening to Take Fashion Passionately "It is about the people. At first, I was just interested in Fine Art. However, my trip to the museum to consume art with the more substantial viewing populace made me realize my passion for finding an art form that widely affected the larger human population – 'that democratized fine art.' "I never knew that mass market fashion was a form of design. I only understood design from the perspective of runway garments, red carpet fashions, and wearable art installations. It

consumer, the fashion industry is actively pursuing you. Currently, it stands as the second largest polluting industry in the world – behind the BIG Oil. Imagine if that sector was asked to do better? That is the essence of the passion of Peggy Sue Collection. The Heart of Peggy Sue Collection It is a Canadian Company dedicated to sustainable fashion that extols the growth and interconnected workings of a North American Supply Chain wholly committed to improving practices. Every material is traced and traceable back to its origin: be it a farm-grown color, a non-GMO medium, organic cotton raised by Sally Fox in the Capay Valley, or Blue Faced Leicester Crossed Sheep’s Wool from Jennifer Osborn’s flock in Ayton, Ontario. PS Collection will consistently strive to bring forth textiles that use the most progressive techniques to celebrate practices such as bio-diversity, bio-dynamic farming, farmers 78

seed rights, and carbon neutral, zero-waste farming. "We are a community, driven by sustainable fashion supply chains that seek to create relationships with both the wearer and creator. Every garment produced is the tangible outcome of an active conversation between all components of the supply chain, supporting community. As our community grows and becomes stronger, so does every component of our supply chain, every iteration of our textiles, and the garments into which they are shaped. "The garments produced by the Supply Chain are timeless, stylish, forward, sexy, thoughtful and well-made. I could not be more thankful for every individual and component embodied within every garment. There is nothing more edifying as a fashion designer to know that these garments are clothing people's lives with the lives of others in a way that creates meaningful relationships and human connection."

wasn’t until later on that I realized it also affected humanity from a supply chain perspective and that more than 75% of the Fashion Supply Chain consists of women." Design Style: Materials and Techniques of Preference "Natural materials are the epitome of luxury. They tell about a particular time: a realtime check-in of the current global state and environment. Yes, they require additional care and consideration from the

wearer, but that too is my preference. When clothing becomes so easy to consume that a wearer doesn’t have to think about it, is when humanity indeed will be wholly ignorant of the process of fashion. People must be intellectually activated by their apparel – not the other way around." Design Philosophy “Sustainable to the core." Peggy Sue Collection is 'The Force for Good' Creating a piece of Fashion from the raw fiber to finished garment involves hundreds of lives, geographies, companies, and sets of skills. It is not just the life of the wearer that is being affected; it is the entire supply chain that is elemental to creating this one single garment. When a wearer understands their impactful part to a more extensive process, that is when they can positively affect change in their conscious decisions. "We have been hard at work to find farmers, mills, and makers who are sustainably minded to


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Moving Forward Peggy Sue Collection will continue to push the boundaries of sustainable fashion in North America, refining their fabrics and fibers while growing their Supply Chain Forward. 80


help make our clothing possible and our values come alive. "Thus far, we have worked with over 100 farmers, mills, and makers. Our denim textile upcycling program has kept 6,325 pounds of carbon from entering the atmosphere. We have used over 2,800 pounds of local Ontario Animal Fibre and about 1,500 pounds of organic, non-GMO plant fiber. We have been able to create four collections that feature natural fibers, hyperlocal fibers, zero waste textile upcycling and zero waste milling. Through our media coverage, the broader community is discovering all the progress, and potential North America has as a supply chain and how Fashion can be a force for good." Wearing the PS Collection, you will feel empowered, precious, and fiercely intelligent. Suddenly you are a part of something bigger than yourself: a living, breathing, and growing community. You become connected. Winner of Design Forward: Canada's Sustainable Fashion Award "As a company that began on the cornerstone of sustainability and a transparent, traceable supply chain, it was a massive test of our systems to enter into the Design Forward Competition and vie for the title of Most Sustainable Canadian Company. Winning the Competition on both the merit of our Design and Sustainability was a real honor that significantly validated our efforts as a company dedicated to progress within the Fashion Industry. "This competition took an in-depth look at our systems, and throughout the competition process, we were able to talk about some of our most meaningful achievements as a company as well as our future initiatives. At PS Collection, it is not one aspect that we take into account or upon which to improve. Instead, it is a holistic approach to the entire supply chain process that allows us to offer a broader solution to sustainability. And it is our dedication to designing on the whole that pulls our efforts together to present a cohesive and competitive set of collections."

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Social Report

Hosted by Design Forward 2017 Finalists of Fashion Takes Action: Omi Woods, Triarchy, and Peggy Sue Collection. The three future fashion leaders exhibited their Finals Presentation & Showcase on October 3rd at the Expo for Design Innovation & Technology (EDIT). An eventful evening with the exclusive opportunity to meet and connect with each finalist - to learn their personal stories, and to spend time with their unique collections - became a night of success and accomplishment. Photography by Olga Hutsul, Editting by FORWARD

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went home as the winner of

Canada’s Sustainable Fashion Award 2017

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I

Noir et Blanc Rhapsody

n the fashion world where women’s wear reigns supreme, fashion designer Tristan F. Lucid of TFL Couture has created innovation in his generation of artists with his edgy men's collection of Spring/ Summer 2018.

Taking it from couture to casual wear and street style, to a luxurious resort men's fashion, here is a look at the TFL MEN'S SS18 Collection.

In Conversation with Tristan F Lucid Lucid is a Toronto based Filipino Designer with a background in Architecture, AutoCAD / 3D Designing for Mechanical Engineering Industries.

How would you best describe TFL Couture to our readers? The up and coming Canadian Fashion Brand by designer Tristan F. Lucid prides itself for concentrating on high-fashion garments. From RTW to couture, TFL Couture creates a wardrobe for both Women and Men’s Fashion

You must have unique creation and design values. May you elaborate? Elevating fashion into a different level of perspective; considering innovations; creating work in the uniqueness and functionality of design!

Wearing TFL Couture creates a sense of ... Artistic Confidence!

May you expand on TFL as a “Couture?” Couture is the highest form of arts in Fashion. Those of us in couture execute an incredible amount of creativity on each detail of each garment to achieve high fashion that is exclusively customfitted and unique in its high quality.

The hardest part of being a fashion designer is ...

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Couture

Tristan F. Lucid presenting his latest collection Noir et Blanc Rhapsody at Toronto Men's Fashion Week (TOM) by photographer Olga Hutsul @olgahutsulhotogreaphy

It is a significant challenge to surpass one's previous fashion works.

The most rewarding part of your career is ... To see my vision come to life. To be able to create and tell a story in each collection through a long workmanship of creative process.

What can you tell us about your newest collection "Noir et Blanc Rhapsody?" It is inspired by a free-spirited bohemian lifestyle. With pieces that take the basic colors of black, white and grey to an entirely new dimension. Accompanied with the opulence of tribal prints, the collection embodies a wardrobe of the man who lives between high fashion, casual afternoons, and luxury resort wear.

Editorial Moodboard TFL MEN'S editorial "LOST TRAVELER," tells a story of a runaway Prodigal Son

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who - while seeking for new adventures and freedom - got lost and found himself in the middle of nowhere. The Son finds

peace in the calmness of the fields, rivers, and wild forest. He falls in love with the free spirit in his new Bohemian Lifestyle.


Photographer Michelle Aristocrat, Creative Director/Styler Tristan Licud, Muse as Pierre Moreau - Modèles LCP, Grooming by Pauline Magno, Glass Bowtie by Poculum, Accessories by Jewel's Box, Set & Props by Claris Minas Manglicmot, Production of Couture Culture & Arts – CCA 91


Making the Shift

Fashion Takes Action is Canada’s only non-profit organization devoted to sustainability in the fashion industry. In ten years FTA has worked with more than 500 brands, retailers, and designers to change the way our clothes are made. FTA also hosts Design Forward, Canada’s Sustainable Fashion Award and runs numerous consumer awareness programs including a youth education workshop called My Clothes, My World. For more information, please visit www.fashiontakesaction.com. 92


T

Social Report

he World Ethical Apparel Roundtable (WEAR), North America’s only conference dedicated to exploring sustainability and business in the apparel and textile sectors united some of the biggest names in the global fashion industry to foster learning and collaboration to push the industry forward with sustainable and regenerative solutions. Chirag Tekchandaney Co-Founder of Bombay

The fourth edition of the two-day WEAR conference (November 13 and 14) held at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre covered four main topics of discussion: waste, water, labor, and textiles, that included keynotes and panel discussions followed by more intimate workshops.

Keynote speaker Kathleen Talbot discussing “The Impact of Fashion”

With keynote speakers- Stacy Flynn, CEO and Co-Founder Evrnu; Kathleen Talbot, VP Operations & Sustainability Reformation; Guiliana Ortega of C&A Foundation; Ellen Karp, Founder Anerca International and others who were experts on sustainable apparel and textile industry, WEAR 2017

Keynote speaker Ellen Karp on “The Global Consumer and Sustainable Textiles”

welcomed independent fashion designers, supply chain companies, wearable technology developers, apparel companies, governmental agencies, academia, consultants, and media. “At WEAR we know that sustainability is a process. There is no perfection, but there is forward momentum. We envision a place for apparel and textile brands looking to improve and expand their sustainable reach to get together and really explore how we’re going to actually ‘do’ sustainable fashion.” Kelly Drennan, FTA Founding ED & WEAR Producer.

Danial Schiff of Ashoka With the support of presenting Sponsors - TESTEX, Koru Distribution, Value Village, WRAP, Bank & Vogue, IDRC Canada, and Ashoka Fabric of Change - WEAR 2017 hosted over 200 delegates from 12 countries, to

Panel Presentation on “Fashion’s Deep Water Impacts” with Roger Williams of River Blue, Alex Penades of Jeanologia, Maria Westerbos of Plastic Soup Foundation, and Luigi Caccia of ItalDenim

participate in two days of successful learning and leadership. Photos Courtesy of Fashion Takes Action (FTA) This Page Photographer Aphiraa Gowry Opposite Page Photographer Emily Neill 93


Social Report

Toronto

is

the New Home of

P l u s S i z e Fa s h i o n For a plus-size individual passionate about pursuing a career in fashion and entertainment, there is the significant challenge of the pre-existing rejection towards their appearance. Despite their talent, skill, and beauty, there remains a strong expectation of rejection solely based on the ideological size model created by the beauty industry. [Editor's Note: In an article in Live Science, Natalie Wolchover wrote that "being 'plump as a partridge' used to be a compliment... The seeds of dieting were sowed in the 1840s, when a Presbyterian minister named Sylvester Graham began advocating a plain, abstinent diet for women as the key to health — and morality."] Denial is prevalent in all aspects of life. However, in the aforementioned industries, denial begins on the first day you decide to pursue a career in fashion, and they persist until you’ve resolved that you’ve had enough. There is an imbalance in the access to exposure whereby those who meet the criteria (namely being extremely thin) are promoted while those who “do not measure up” are merely along for the ride while their careers are tucked neatly on the back of a shelf. Malia Indigo Corporation is a fashion network business based in Toronto. It recognizes this intentional hindrance and in response, hosts the international platform <www.maliaindigo.com> to celebrate plus-size individuals. Malia Indigo launched the #PlusVisibility campaign with the purpose of putting Toronto on the plus-size fashion map. The business continues to demonstrate its commitment to provide visibility of plus-size persons with the launch of the #PlusVisibility Holiday Campaign. Top Left Pascale Ramalingum @pascaleramalingum, model, fashion specialist and Malia Indigo's member Top Right Dawn Estensen @dacwork, model and Malia Indigo's member Middle Right Royale Tea @royale.tea, model and Malia Indigo's member Middle Left Simone Denny @simonescurves, model, vocalist, body positive and Malia Indigo's member Bottom Left Malia of Malia Indigo @maliaindigo_, CEO, model and body advocate All Photos Photographer Olga Hutsul @olgahutsulphotography, Dresses provided by Suzy Q Jewels @suzytamasysuzyqjewels, Makeup Artist Eunique @facesbyeunique1, Assistant Makeup Artist Assiya @assiya_makeup_hairstylist 94


The Rise of

Style

Yves Saint Laurent famously said,

“Fashion fades, style is eternal.� The fashion-obsessed would agree that style is much more than the season's latest trends. Style is a fashion made more personal. It is about one's attitude and way of life. It is in individual imagination; asserting a tiny bit of yourself and making this self more visible to the watching world. Uncover the personalities beneath layers of fashion in Toronto's local style personalities 'to explore how style transcends the clothing you put on.'

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Style Report

K

Kehli G. ehli G is a fashion editorial and runway model with Seven Model & Talent MGMT. Editor in Chief of Borealis Mag and painted in tattoos, Kehli works as a graphic designer and photo retoucher at Abstraxion Retouch & Design, which she founded. The one thing that should come as no surprise now would be that Kehli is - on top of everything else - a fashion stylist.

Having been featured in more than 50 publications worldwide including Canadian Hairdresser, Fashion Magazine, Institute Mag, Modern Salon, and NOW Magazine. FORWARD Magazine tracked down Kehli G and put her covetable style under the spotlight.

My style is... a mix of arty, punk, and tomboy.

I am a Fashion Bomb because... I like to avoid the

conventional, instead gravitating toward more anti-materialistic and edgy pieces. I love unique handcrafted or one-of-a-kind items.

When I shop, I spend most

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of my time... At my go-to (Toronto/

Canadain) designers! A local designer that is super hot right now is Hendrix Roe; I can't wait to get my hands on some of her new SS18 collection pieces!

My shopping haven is... Gfox & Co., Poor Little Rich Girl, TSOQ, Untitled & Co.

The Most valuable player (MVP) in my wardrobe is...

Hats! Hats are one of my obsessions. I can never have enough wide-brimmed wool hats and snapbacks! I also love distressed shirts from the boys’ section. And sometimes I like my pants a bit baggy, but other times tight – vegan-leather, and ripped skinny jeans.

The quote I live by is... “Never be afraid to STOP TRAFFIC” by Iris Apfel.

Shoes or bag? BOTH – and they must complement each other. Both are important.

I will never wear... Crocs or Uggs!

My evening look is... I do wear a lot of black, to dress up a look for evening, I usually add higher heels, a bit of fur or something sheer!


My daytime uniform is... Again usually black but a little more casual, maybe some ripped jeans and a cute crop top and leather jacket with heeled booties.

My favorite piece that I wear to death is... the jackets that I have, and I alternate between them all!

How would you best describe the difference between streetsnaps and editorial shoots?

Streetsnaps are usually paparazzi-type shots that are more lifestyle in nature. Editorial shots are planned out extensively and include multiple cohesive shots that tell a story through the photos and emotional signs.

How have you seen the subject “Street style� changed over the years? Street style has evolved, in my opinion. It is no longer associated with youth culture; there are variations of street style looks today that cross-pollinate into the different age categories.

Opposite Page Top Photographer @duncan.telford, Designer @britwacher, Beauty Artist Suzy Rose of @blushstrokesmakeup, First Photographer @olgahutsulphotography, Second & Third Photographer @olgahutsulphotography at Toronto Mens Fashion Week (TOM), Fourth Designer Uncuffed (harness), Fifth Photographer Che Rosales, Designers @britwacher & Uncuffed & Patricia Fields, at TOM This Page First & Bottom Photographer @duncan.telford, Designer @britwacher, Beauty Artist Suzy Rose of @blushstrokesmakeup Second &Third Photographer @stephanloban, Beauty Artist @kj_mua for @GlassVisage, Photo Assistant Danny Santana All Photos Provided by Model & Stylist @Kehli_G of @SevenModels1, Retoucher @abstraxion_retouch 97


Style Report

JayJay Kings “Style is a way to say who you are without having to speak.” Rachel Zoe

T

his quote by the famous Rachel Zoe is more accurate than you may imagine. A style is more profound than just putting on a well-unified outfit. JayJay Kings proves this point with his style, being more about who one is as a person.

Who is JayJay Kings? “I’ve always said, growing up, that I was a weird art kid who lived inside his head. I used drawing, painting, and writing, as my way of expressing myself (which is difficult as an angry little gay boy living in small town). When I moved to Toronto, I surrounded myself with people who found expression in new avenues like hair, fashion, and makeup. The opportunity to walk the runway during the Fashion Art Toronto (FAT) is when I first started expressing myself as this 'Gender Blur!'"

My style aesthetic is... Random. Gender Blur.

My signature look is... It goes

through stages; I feel like, every couple weeks I’m cocooning. Recently, I am loving vintage fits and bleached eyebrows!

I am a Fashion Bomb because... My fashion is more like a

as a concept. For Toronto Men’s Fashion Week (TOM) I only wore “men’s garments” but with a feminine touch to create a genderless twist! I wore an Annie Thompson Ruffle Button Down Shirt as a dress with a corset, thigh high boots and some fishnets!

My shopping haven is...

Honestly, I’ve stopped shopping for Fashion! I’ve worked in retail/visual management for over a decade, and it lacks luster. When I do shop, it is at vintage stores; or for makeup and skin care! My recent obsession is to cruise through Sephora site and just binge! If it is not for vintage, I wear local Canadian labels!

My go-to local Toronto/ Canadain designer is...

Hayley Elsaesser. If you want to make a statement with a bomb print on a beautiful garment, she is the way to go! I always love working with Uncuffed Leather, Brit Watcher, L’oumo, and Annie Thompson. I'm currently obsessed with Hendrixroe and hoping to work with them soon!

photobomb! Haha! I love playing with fashion

My wardrobe's most valuable player (MVP) is... Blistex! I need my chapstick!

My trademark is... #longlivetheking

Shoes or bag? Shoes. I would never wear... Crocs! My evening look includes... a smokey eye.

My daytime uniform is...

Vintage Levi’s mom jeans, some sort of cropped hoodie or graphic tee tucked with a shoestring belt and chucks!

My favorite piece that I wear to death is... my Levi’s, and chucks.

I understand the significance of street style to be... That the best and most remarkable things are created in an underground

moment of darkness, weakness or honesty! My preference of Street Style is beyond the basic “bomber jacket paired with skinny ripped ankle jeans and Chelsea boots.”

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All images provided by JayJay Kings. Bottom First Photographer Che Rosales, Second & Third Photographer @olgahutsulphotography at TOM 2017

Opposite Page All images provided by Mason. Bottom Left Photographer @olgahutsulphotography


Style Report

Mason Schlueter My style icons are... Iris Apfel and David Bowie.

I find Toronto fashion unique because of... its vibrant mix of cultures and styles.

My wardrobe's most valuable player (MVP) is... my

Y

McQueen Gold trim black button up Poplin shirt. ou can spot Fashion Stylist Mason Schlueter of Unique Stylings in the first row of Toronto runway shows, looking for his next favorite brand. If he

is missing his usual spot at the front, then he is probably at the backstage sending his styled models down the runway. Located in the heart of downtown Toronto, the fabulous Mason will bring you out of your shell and make you understand that fashion has more to it than just a basic top. Here is a look at his style and trade secrets out to influence your closet.

My style aesthetic is... dark, androgynous, edgy.

My definition of streetwear is... lifestyle look where runway and casual wear meet halfway.

My evening look is... very gender fluid while still keeping it edgy!

My daytime uniform is...

Classic London edge street style finished off with feminine touches.

I will never be caught wearing... anything mainstream or colorful.

My favorite piece that I wear to death is... my FRAME Noir ripped jeans.

My first fashion memory is... my first September Issue of Vogue. I got it from my mom when I was ten!

How did you get a start in styling?

While as a designer back in Montreal, I realized that my talents lay more in finishing off the story of the creative pieces that has already has been crafted.

My philosophy on styling is... push beyond boundaries to create a

My go-to local Toronto/ Canadain designers for styling are... MUSESA Jewellery,

FURious Fur, Tara Rivas, Kazz, and Steven Lejambe.

A part of my job that I love is... the aspect of being able to tell different stories through the garments I come across for each shoot.

A challenge I face with the Toronto industry is... the knowledge of what a stylist “truly� can provide for everyone.

The look that photographs the best is... edgy minimalism.

Irrespective of the angle, the person always looks great in classic cuts with a dash of edge.

My one no-fail styling trick is... preparation. The one thing your clients will never be seen wearing is... baggy, formless garments. My clients have always been fitted adequately for their body types.

As a stylist, what advice can you give on what we should we steer clear of?

Oversized clothing. It may be in trend, but it doesn't suit all body types and heights.

Be fabulous with Unique Stylings!

new identity.

Are you a closet editor or builder?

I do both, starting off with editing what my client has in their closets and then jump into building on new looks which are purchased to finish their look. 99


Street-

Photographer

Michele Taras 100

Wise


Style Report

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Style Report

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Style Report

Stylist Mason Schlueter of Unique Stylings, Beauty Stylist Lisa Arsenault of Pinch Cosmetics, Model Emily Sorensen of Vogue Models Jewellery by Musesa, Jackets by Furious Fur, White Dress by H&M, Knee-High Boots by Pink Boutique, Blue Shirt by Zarga

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T

a

k

i

n

g

Suits to the

Street

Photographer Olga Hutsul 104


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Clothing by Suzy Q Jewels, Suzy Tamasy & Lisa Sacheittielo @suzytamasysusyqjewels, Stylist Fredsonn Silva Aguda @fredsonnsilaaguda, Makeup Artist Takiyah Duggan @MakeupWithKiyah, Models Nathan Hardy @nmodelh & Shelby Auburn @shelburnz

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CANADA 108

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From humble beginings, to present day

Fashion in

E

since

TORONTO 1867

ven in the time of Confederation, Toronto the Good had a severe case of fashionable society. A satirical correspondent for the Canadian Illustrated News, circa 1870, describes how wealthy young Torontonians would “do King” by engaging in a ritual promenade along a particular stretch of King Street.

“Performing, as it was, ‘Kotow’ to the goddess of Fashion, and sacrificing to her sister divinity of Society.” (Canadian Illustrated News, 1870)

prestige to label their couture. (Canada and haute couture were born within a year of each other: Englishman Charles Frederick Worth established the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture in Paris in 1868.)

King Street was Old Toronto’s luxury shopping destination. The third-largest city in the Dominion of Canada, Toronto was the new country’s English-speaking commercial center, with roughly half the population of the older, Francophone Montreal. In stark contrast to the cultural pluralism of modern

Stitt & Co. were the favorite dressmakers of Ishbel Marjoribanks, Countess of Aberdeen, a Scottish aristocrat and progressive who, as the wife of Governor General John Campbell Gordon, was a leader of society in 1890s Canada. One of Ishbel’s achievements while

Toronto, society was dominated by an AngloProtestant, colonial elite. Inspired by fashion reporting in American magazines like Godey’s, Leslie’s and Demorest’s, the city’s style-conscious could get a wardrobe update at dry goods emporia like Robert Walker and

the mistress of Rideau Hall, was founding the National Council of Women. This autumn, her great-great-granddaughter, Lady Anna Gordon, became the first member of the British nobility to enter into a same-sex marriage.

Sons, a.k.a. The Golden Lion, on the site of today’s King Edward Hotel, or Graham’s Temple of Fashion in the St. Lawrence Hall. Atop the city’s hierarchy of tailors and dressmakers were fine establishments like ladies’ tailor O’Briens Limited and William Stitt and Company – rarities in having the

Opposite Page CN Tower Jumpsuit, ca. 1976, Ryerson Fashion Research Collection FRC2014.99.003, Anonymous donation. Photo by Jazmin Welch. Image courtesy of Ryerson University.

In December 1897, to mark the close of Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee year, the Countess of Aberdeen hosted a Victorian Era Ball at the Armouries on University Avenue. Twenty-five hundred guests came to this fancy-dress celebration of the British Empire. Ishbel’s eighteen-year-old daughter, Lady Marjorie, went as the Forests of Canada. As the Globe reported, the Countess was “regal” in a blue velvet gown trimmed in ermine; her petticoat and court train embroidered in gold with Celtic designs. The outfit made a political statement: it showed her support for Irish Home Rule. The Celtic Revival embroidered elements were repurposed from a dress by Mary Sims, “the Worth of Dublin,” made while Lady Aberdeen

written by

Dr Sarah Sheehan

Born and raised in Ottawa, the home of CanCon, Sheehan spent over two decades in Toronto. She walked in a few local fashion shows in the late ’90s, including one at the Catacombs and Ingrid Z’s controversial art show at York University. Sheehan has written about fashion for Hamilton Magazine, FASHION, and her blog, PatternVault. She lives in downtown Hamilton.

Twitter @DrSarahSheehan

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who had trained in Paris after fleeing pogroms in Tsarist Russia. Creeds later pioneered in-store designer boutiques under Jack’s son, Eddie. From 1910, another furrier-turned-department store, Holt, Renfrew, and Company, made its Toronto home in the Elgin Block, just south of the Dineen Building. (Holt’s began as a Quebec business; the company’s headquarters didn’t move to Toronto until the 1970s.) Despite its famously long history, the Hudson’s Bay Company had no retail presence in eastern Canada until the early 1960s, when it bought Morgan’s, a Montreal chain with a local flagship at Bloor and Yonge.

was vicereine in Ireland. Like the gown she wore in Montreal just weeks later, the Toronto ensemble may also have been custom-made by William Stitt and Co. Outside high society, custom dressmaking was on the wane. Ready-made clothing became increasingly accessible thanks to technological advances like steam power, railways, and sewing machines. The new “departmental” stores hedged their bets by selling both ready-made and custom garments, with tailoring and dressmaking services on-site. Within two years of Confederation, Timothy Eaton of the T. Eaton Co. brought his retail vision to Queen and Yonge (inside the footprint of today’s Eaton Centre). The rival Robert Simpson Co., established soon after, moved to the south side of Queen Street (now the Bay and Saks) in 1881. Eaton’s and Simpson’s mail-

Unless you lived in the Junction, Ontario’s short-lived Prohibition ended in 1920. Prosperous, Deco-era Toronto was bursting with fashion options for the smart set. The MacLean Publishing Company launched Mayfair, high fashion and society magazine along the lines of Condé Nast’s Vogue or Vanity Fair, in 1927. The cover of Mayfair’s second issue, showing a blushing bride at her church wedding, is revealing of a society still faithful to the notion of universal Christian values. For readers of more modest means, MacLean’s had Chatelaine, with a section devoted to the latest Vogue sewing patterns. By the end of the decade, Toronto’s bestdressed could lunch or take in a fashion show in Simpson’s Arcadian Court or

Jacques Carlu’s Round Room, further up Yonge Street in Eaton’s sparkling new College Street flagship. For the finest in exclusive, high-end fashion, elite clients could visit the formidable Madame Martha. Madame Martha made couture garments in her salon at 600 Bay Street until 1929, when Mayfair announced the sale of her business. (The Gray Coach Terminal opened next door soon afterward.) An early advocate for the Canadian fashion industry, by the 1930s she was Simpson’s inhouse couturier, available for consultation in the third-floor French Salon. In 1946, Yousuf Karsh took her portrait. Ryerson’s fashion program – founded with the college in 1948 – laid the foundations of Toronto ready-to-wear. As in the old Dominion of Canada, postwar haute couture

order catalogs were quickly disseminating the latest styles nationwide. Signs of Canada’s fur-trade heritage remain even today, clustered along Yonge Street. The late-Victorian Dineen Building at Yonge and Temperance Street, now home to the Dineen Coffee Company, was built in 1897 to house the showroom of W. and D. Dineen, furriers; the sign of another furrier, Robert Fairweather (est. 1867), is still visible near Yonge and King. Early 20th-century Toronto saw the addition of Creeds and Company. It was founded as a furrier’s by Jack Creed,

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Yousuf Karsh, Madame Martha, 1946. Courtesy of Library and Archives Canada. Opposite Page Top Ishbel Maria (Marjoribanks) Gordon, Marchioness of Aberdeen and Temair, 1897. Bottom Bridal illustration by Elsie Deane on the cover of Mayfair’s second issue, June 1927. Courtesy of the Magazines, Travel and Middlebrow Culture in Canada Project.


History had twin centers in Montreal and Toronto. In 1954, when Montreal couturier RaoulJean Fouré formed the Association of Canadian Couturiers, the exclusive group included two Toronto designers: Tibor de Nagay, a recent émigré from Paris, and Federica, a former Paris buyer who had relocated from Milan. But the consortium was limited by a lack of design protections and the need to use only Canadian textiles. Sourcing the right fabrics was still a challenge in the 1960s when Toronto boutique fashion engaged with contemporary trends like loungewear and the decade’s youth culture. Lingerie designer Claire Haddad, who inherited her Syrian-Lebanese parents’ garment business, used imported silks handpainted by local artists. Formerly of Detroit, Marilyn Brooks (who became the first president of the Fashion Designers Council of Canada) first sold her flamboyant clothes at the Unicorn on Gerrard Street, while London expat Pat McDonagh showed her take on the Carnaby look at the Establishment on Bloor. When the CN Tower opened to the public in 1976, staff wore uniforms designed by McDonagh and Brooks. A jumpsuit by McDonagh bears a CN Tower print in gray and sienna; Brooks’ version was silver nylon.

The Toronto fashion industry was coming into its own. Toronto Life FASHION launched in 1977, Flare in 1979. By the early ’80s, Alfred Sung had partnered with the Mimran brothers, and Vivienne Poy – later Canada’s first senator of Asian descent – was selling her signature knitwear from her Yorkville boutique. Daniel Storto began his glove-making odyssey. Comrags, now a Toronto institution, was founded in 1983 by Joyce Gunhouse and Judy Cornish, who met at Ryerson. M.A.C., conceived in 1984 as a

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Toronto Fashion Week is dead. Long live Toronto Fashion Week. *Source: Toronto Life Q&A, March 2016.

Top Comrags, Spring 1986. Photo: Chris Nicholls for Now Magazine. Courtesy of Comrags / Chris Nicholls. Corner Detail of print on CN Tower Jumpsuit, ca. 1976, Ryerson Fashion Research Collection FRC2014.99.003, Anonymous donation. Photo by Jazmin Welch. Image courtesy of Ryerson University. BottomGarden party fashion show hosted by Eaton’s, 1930. Courtesy of City of Toronto Archives.

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professional makeup line by “The Franks” (Frank Angelo and Frank Toskan), opened its first counter in the Simpsons basement; the brand got a boost when Madonna wore Russian Red lipstick on her 1990 Blond Ambition tour. And two hugely popular television shows, CityTV’s widely syndicated Fashion Television, hosted by Jeanne Beker, and CBC’s Fashion File with Tim Blanks, brought runway buzz to a global audience. During the ’90s recession, the city rebranded the historic garment district as the Fashion District, and the Bata Shoe Museum, designed by Moriyama & Teshima Architects, opened at Bloor and St. George. Toronto labels Lida Baday, Mercy, and David Dixon were successful exponents of the decade’s minimalism and vintage-inspired style. Mercy designers Jennifer Halchuk and Richard Lyle met at the Toronto Fashion Incubator, a City of Toronto initiative that continues to flourish under director Susan Langdon. (Current Toronto Fashion Incubator success story: Sid Neigum.) The daughter of Japanese-Canadian garment workers, Langdon made the non-profit incubator into a model venture, adopted by other cities. By the end of the decade, local labels had an official umbrella organization for the seasonal runway presentations in Toronto Fashion Week. Thanks to global industries like

A 1969 Claire Haddad clothing advertisement for Eaton’s Courtesy of Estate of Claire Haddad

Octavius Thompson, St Lawrence Hall, 1867. Courtesy of Thomas Fisher Rare Book Library. Edited via [https://www.flickr.com/photos/thomasfisherlibrary/ 30865104186/in/album-72157672729106183/]

finance and entertainment, 21st-century Toronto has become a thriving, cosmopolitan center. During Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF), the Victorian fashion parade is reborn in King Street celebrity-watching. A stylish public can enjoy fashion exhibits at the Design Exchange, housed in the old Toronto Stock Exchange on Bay Street, and the ROM’s Patricia Harris Gallery of Textiles & Costume. Julie Yoo’s meticulously curated I Miss You Vintage has grown from a low-key opening in 2006 to a place where Lady Gaga shops. Tommy Ton, the pioneering street style photographer, had his fashion epiphany as an Oakville teen watching Fashion Television. Feminist artist and curator Petra Collins, a Toronto native and former OCADU student, shoots campaigns for Adidas and Gucci, and Romanian-born Lucian Matis, who “[came] to Canada to study fashion,”* is dressing Sophie Grégoire Trudeau. Erdem Moralıoğlu may have left the city for London, but Jeremy Laing is back in his Parkdale studio. So strong is the local industry that last year

when Toronto Fashion Week got dumped by its corporate owner, the mood in the aftermath was more festive than grim. In fact, if Susan Langdon has her way, the country could finally get a Canadian Fashion Council.

The original logo for the Unicorn, the first boutique opened by Marilyn Brooks in the early 1960s. Copyright 2017 Marilyn Brooks www.marilynbrooks.com 113


Ta p 2 Ta g

Wearable Fashion

Fashion, Science, and exploration come together.

S

ome outfits seem like works of art, yet others more functional. In both cases, fashion is a genuine expression of

creativity. Now, in our current period of innovation, fashion is also technology. Over the course of a century, science, exploration, and fashion have come together in a state of promising future. A decade ago, who may have imagined that the accessories which complete our personal style, would continue to serve us by enhancing communication, exchanging information, or even being of assistance in a medical emergency? That concept is precisely what Tap2Tag has brought to the Canadian people. Tap2Tag uses Near Field Communication (NFC) technology in fashion accessories to store, share and retrieve medical and personal data. The brand developed secure

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web-based applications that enhance public communication and then created the accompanying hardware: wearable pieces fitting every lifestyle and providing access to the software. Tap2Tag integrates technology and fashion as usefulness and style; the creative possibilities of are endless for the

insight into their latest product through Tap2Tag's Department Manager of Wearable Technology Jasmin Rea-Clement.

stylish individual always on the run.

Tap2Tag [T2T] You can think of it as a 21stcentury business card. CONNECT products

The company describes its product as “today’s most advanced identification and

can instantly link you with another person via virtual handshake, exchanging personal or

medical alert devices designed to provide instant, secure access to information in any

business information such as websites, email address and phone number. [Representing

situation, and connect critical information ‘on Tap.'"

yourself or your own company,] you can link a video or commercial to view upon

Tap2Tag made its exclusive launch of

connecting with someone [in the industry]. Instead of having a pocket full of a paper

Tap2Tag CONNECT during Startup Fashion Week (SFW) Toronto 2017. It was at this

card - which is easily lost or damaged CONNECT allows you to fully customize

time that FORWARD met the team and saw the future of networking and socializing in this innovative technology.

what information is available to those who you are connecting with while saving the contact information for further connecting!

We connect with the company and gain

FW How exactly does it work?

FORWARD [FW] What is Tap2Tag CONNECT?


T2T Tap2Tag CONNECT works the same way as other Tap2Tag products; You can tap any of our products with an NFC-enabled device (such as smartphones, androids, tablets) or by scanning the QR code on the back [of the cards].

clientele?

A browser will instantly open, containing the basic information of the owner applicable and offers you to CONNECT-ion with them. CONNECT key will offer a virtual handshake allowing you access to further details including URLs, email addresses, and websites.

Pendants, rings, and bracelets - fashion tech allows the tech-savvy worker and the stylish icon to be one in the same.

FW What inspired the idea of Tap2Tag CONNECT? T2T The idea is an extension of our previous ventures in finding solutions to ease the hustle and bustle of our daily lives. Whether you are a professional looking to make business connections; an artist selling a painting; or a mom running errands, we wanted a product which can serve a purpose while breaching into the fashion realm. Being a part of SFW Toronto 2017 inspired the need to not only create something useful but to create something that people would genuinely want to wear. FW How would you describe your ideal

T2T Tap2Tag CONNECT is for everyone: masculine; feminine; bold; minimalist. [We create and provide a variety of] designs to fit every lifestyle.

FW What are the critical features of wearable tech which every designer should maintain? T2T Diversity in creation; and maintain that the design is useful, usable and desirable. One cannot make a single piece and expect the world to adore it. Focus on your technology, as it will be forever evolving. In a separate realm, designs will always need to be updated. FW What do you see as the future of wearable tech? T2T I believe that change is imminent and that technology will soon be widespread throughout the fashion industry. Garments will not only be a statement piece but will also be able to provide the wearer with data; whether it be monitoring daily activities or changing color when vitals are in danger zones.

The future of wearable tech is full of possibilities!

This Page Photographer Jim Orgill at the Startup Fashion Week Toronto 2017 runway show

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DAMASSIA


Deeper Look

Be Your Own

I

f you are uncomfortable with standing out in the crowd,

D A M A S S I A i s n o t fo r y o u .

Full of personality, DAMASSIA is a cuttingedge fashion brand that is unapologetic with its powerful designs and dramatic - yet sleek - silhouettes. Standing as an embodiment of a 'female warrior,' the pieces of DAMASSIA reveal your inner strength and individualism. “One should never follow the norm; Create your own path in life, going forward to where you see possible,” Darlene Damassia tells FORWARD. FORWARD chats with the Canadian queen herself on how she inspires the modern day woman to be the Queen of Her Life through a DAMASSIA wardrobe.

Queen

FORWARD [FW] What inspired your career as a fashion designer?

Darlene Damassia [DD] My parents! My father was a costume designer who gave me extensive theatrical costume design knowledge and skills. From a very young age, my experiences taught me that design and creation were powerful ways to inspire empowerment. FW May you elaborate on your brand? DD DAMASSIA is a ready-to-wear women’s label that established in 2016. Its entire supply chain is based in Canada, an aspect incredibly important to me. Beginning as a brand for custom design garments, DAMASSIA now offers a collection of readyto-wear pieces that appeases to plenty of women.

muses?

DD My inspiration comes from the rich variety of women’s lifestyles around the world in combination with the simplicity of nature's beauty. The creation of armor garments and accessories acts as a movement of self-protection and enhancement of confidence. FW How would you describe your design aesthetic?

DD DAMASSIA designs are powerful statements. Sleek and sensual, I take a modern approach to designs through Vangular shape cut-outs and square slits. Fabric textures are soft to the touch, wrinklefree and lightweight. It is critical that each piece is unrestricted to the body's natural movement, allowing a sense of physical and emotional freedom.

FW What would you describe as your

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Deeper Look FW What is your design philosophy? DD To Inspire Empowerment; To Elevate The Norm; To Be Extraordinary! FW The unique Charisma of DAMASSIA is undeniable. How would you describe it from a designer perspective? The sleek, dramatic designs define DAMASSIA and will - without a doubt - carve its own path into the future of style within the fashion industry. The designs inspire the wearer to create a new way of life that best suits their desires (rather than blindly accepting the status quo). FW May you elaborate on the importance of fashion to yourself? DD Social media gives designers a platform to share and express their thoughts and talents with others around the world. It is a beautiful community of creative innovation neverending. FW What do you see into the future? DD The creation of a lifestyle fashion brand for women that is representative of their strength, diversity, and adversity from around the world. Every woman can be the Queen Of Her Life!

Page 116 Photographer Photographer Jim Orgill, Edited by FORWARD Page 117 Right Photographer Jim Orgill Middle Photographer Jim Orgill Left Photographer Tyrone Islington Opposite Page Right Photographer Jim Orgill Middle Photographer Gary Murray Left Photographer Jim Orgill This Page Top Photographer Jim Orgill Bottom Photographer Tyrone Islington 119


A m at o C o u t u r e

A m at o C o u t u r e

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FORWARD's Exclusive Look at the

Amato Couture RTW Spring / Summer 2018

B

e the muse of Furne One by dwelling in Amato Couture. FORWARD enthralls you with the front row experience of the Amato Couture as it makes it debut in Canada while gliding down the aisles of the Church of the Redeemer in Toronto, in October 2016. Amato Couture is a couture design house based in Dubai. This Avant Garde label is the brainchild of Furne One, one of the anticipated designers on the global fashion stage. Photographed by Olga Hutsul @olgahutsulphotography

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Couture His garments with its unique spirit–as defined by intricate detailing, romance, and drama with utmost elegance and audacity–strikes the right cord in the hearts of the Toronto fashion elite.

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through the lens of fashion photographer

Olga Hutsul

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Tun Teja by Eja Shahril 125


Take your front-row seat at Couture Fashion Week New York (CFW NYC) 2017 and experience the latest pieces to storm the runways with an exclusive report by FORWARD's esteemed photographer Olga Hutsul. Founded in 2005 by Andres Aquino, CFW

Silka by Silka Mitrasari

NYC presents an incredible experience of frill and style by showcasing exquisite garments and accessories of exceptional designers from around the world.

Discover worldclass luxuries from around the globe, constellating together to shine forth their creative brilliance in one fell swoop of the CFW NYC.

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Geraldus Sugeng


G r a y l i n g

P u r n e l l 127


L e V i C o

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LeViCo

Azulant Akora 129


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High Tide

M i c h e l e Ta r a s Photography

Like the ebbing of the tide, a w o m a n i s a t t i m e s strong ,

yet needing of support;

beautiful,

yet moody,

caring, daring, elegant...

she is all of these things in one,

none.

and yet at times,

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View

Award-winning

photographer Michele

Taras establishes water as the essence of survival, and in

particular cultures, it is

symbolic of wisdom and birth. Women are continually going

through birth and

rebirth, trying to figure out where we should stand as a gender.

Should we be mothers? Wives? Lovers? Should

we be independent and free? Are we the roots of our family, what holds us together?

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Photographer Michele Taras @michele_taras_photography, Makeup Artist Rosa-Lee Farquharson of Malvarose Beauty @malvar0se & Assistant Osato Erebor @osatoerebor, Model Samantha Moore @whentheresmooretolife


Is it right

for others to

determine these

answers for us?

Sail through the

HIGH TIDE

to search for

the answers!

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EMY A r m o r


View

Opposite Page Top Designer at work Bianca Cordileone at work during the Emy Launch, Photographer Amanda Lorena @amandalorenaphotography This Page Photographer Louise Yu @louise.images, Model Tamtt Seturidze @tamttessy. An Emy ARMOUR collaboration with blogger and photographer Nesrine Brikci @tempsduncafe, Photo Credit Emy ARMOR 135


Goddess Photographer

Liana

Carbone

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of

Desire


Designer

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Taking visual

to embody the

inspiration from

Montreal-based

the goddess-like

designer Bianca

women of

Cordileone's

Alphonse Mucha's

passion for self-

paintings, Liana

realization through

Carbone's

her brand Emy

Photography takes

ARMOUR.

a celestial journey

Photographer Liana Carbone @lianacarbonephoto of Studio @havencreative.space, Wardrobe Stylist Alexia Krizia La Palerma @alexialapalerma, Hair Stylist Chrissy Palmer Plante @chrissy_plante of Salon @privepardaviddamours, Makeup Artist Alexia Theopoulos @beauty.by.alexia, Model Gala @galadame of agency @foliomontreal 138


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EMY Armor


Harness EMY Amor @emyarmor Photographer Liana Carbone @lianacarbonephoto of studio @hvencreative.space Wardrobe Stylist Alexia Krizia La Palerma @alexialapalerma Top Claudette by Claudette Floyd @claudette_floyd Underwear Lonely @lonelylingerie from Alice Kass Lingerie @alicekasslingerie Shoes Aldo @aldo_shoes Hair Stylist Chrissy Palmer Plante @chrissy_pante of Salon @Privepardaviddamours Makeup Alexia Theopoulos @beauty.by.alexia

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Romantic Mystery

Look 142

Beyond t o Discover


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View

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Chains & Fur Accessories EMY Armor @emyarmor Photographer Mary Elam @elam.design Wardrobe Stylist Cherizar @aesthetically.teasing Makeup Artist Helene @helene_mua Models Vea Enriquez @veaenriquez & Zander Taylor @zanyxany 145


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Last Look

F. C a p u a n o , p . # @fcapuanomtl

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For submission, download the Media Kit on our website

and email concepts to contact@forwardfashiontoronto.com


Amato Couture photographed by Olga Hutsul


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