The Women's ISSUE by FORWARD Fashion

FORWARD Magazine is a quarterly publication. For information on our quarterly publishing cycle, please contact us via http://www.ForwardFashionToronto.com. 2018 Women's Issue -- Published November 2018. ÂŠ 2018 FORWARD Fashion Toronto. All Rights Reserved. No part of this magazine may by reproduced, distributed or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechnical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. EDITORIAL OFFICE FORWARD Magazine is published by FORWARD Fashion Toronto. contact@ForwardFashionToronto.com

Contents

FAIRYTALE APOCALYPSE A sneak peak into a seperate editorial by designer Sage Paul

44.

Sage Paul a Common

thread that binds

Indigenous Communities

together

HIJAB FASHION, P.64

5. Letter from the Editor 39. Startup Fashion Week Montreal: On The Runway 70. Modesty a la Mode: IMFDF 92. Honoring Joan Kelley Walker

Interviews 6. Fashion Lawyer of Arty Law 12. Powerhouse Sonia Zarbatany 17. Fashion Headhunter Nadia Signore 26. Stylist Patricia Trepanier 37. Jodi Goodfellow of Startup Fashion Week 58. Our Idol Malia Indigo 96. Supermodel Canada 61. Pop Fusion 114. Indie Expo Canada by Aniqa Rahman

Editorials 9. Temple Maison: A Cherished Creation 19. Dee Silki 74. PCP Clothing Inc. Presents The Resist Collection

Special Submissions 23. Slow Fashion for the Maximalist by Sarah Jean Harrison 28. The Breast Cancer Project by Michele Taras 32. Every Woman Campaign: Celebrating Real Diversity by Jess Lewis 52. One Unique Dress for One Unique Woman by Jillian Joy 64. Hijab Fashion by Julio Sanchez Velo, Ph.D 82. Brave Soles: Shoes With Soul by Christal Earle 91. Goodbye Not Goodbye to Annie Thompson 108. Walking On Water (WOW) by Olga Hutsul

Co-Executive Directors

Featured Designers & Brands

Featured Directors and

Reba Harrison & Ugyen Wangmo

Annie Thompson

Businesswomen

Brave Soles

Aicha Tohry

Editor-in-Chief

Dee Silkie by Dee Wilkie

Christal Earle

Ugyen Wangmo

Fredsonn Silva Agudá

Jess Lewis

Pam Heil

Joan Kelley Walker

Business Director

Guru for Life

Jodi Goodfellow

Reba Harrison

Jillian Joy Hand Crafted

Josiane Laure Modjom A.K.A Malia

Joan Kelley Walker Collection

Indigo

Visual and Graphics Designer

Love Not Fear

Nadia Signore

Reba Harrison

Mata Traders

Nicole Laville

Monica Frangulea

Sage Paul

Contributing Writers

My Putchi

Sonia Zarbatany

When unlisted, assume the writer as

PCP Clothing

Wendy Dougan

Editor-in-Chief Ugyen Wangmo

Pop Fusion

Aniqa Rahman

Pop Sauvage

Featured Stylists

Julio Sánchez Velo, Ph.D

Sage Paul

Basil Waris

Sarah Jean Harrison

Caitlin Gladney-Hatcher

Emily Hughes

SuzyQ Jewels

Fredson Santos Silva

Contributing Photographers

Baharak Ghafghazi

Jessica Albano

Aimon Syeda

Tomé Dress Salon

Melani Erogullari

Andrea Villegas

Candace Daniela

Michael Black

Augusto Rosales

Vanessa Rose Gallelli

Nekesa Thomas

Billie Chiasson

Zane Barlas

Patricia Trepanier

Caroline Lacoste

Zendagi

Paul Langil

Daniel Cianfarra David J. Fulde Georgia Esporlas

Karyn Inder

Featured Hair and Makeup Artists

Gloria Liang

Kristy Neagle

Amrita Jhas

Jamie Lobban

Layla Ryan

Angelina Grechko

Joshua Del Rosario

Lesley Hampton

Cassandra Jakubek

Kaitlin Tinis

Maddison Fysh

Evgenia Ruba

Lbkphotography

Michael Morrone

Faces by Eunique

Lindsay Anne Delaney

Miriam

Helen Kenny

Mehdi Zegna

Nicole Robertson

Myles Sexton

Michele Taras

Parisa

Ronnie Tremblay

Miz Monday

Sydney Sarayeva

Ruben Branco Rementizo Tori Bradbrook

Noel Photography

Sharan Guru

Olga Hutsul Photography

Skye Paul

Peter Jung Photography

Win K

Ratul Debnath Steven McNeil 4

Rashi Bindra Featured Models

Letter From the Editor

Her-Story: Celebrating Female in Fashion The fashion world is home to some of the most creative and extraordinary women–from models on the runway to designers, editors, stylists, digital influencers, and street style stars. All through to even the primary end consumers of fashion being women (of course). Still, to no one's surprise, women are underrepresented in leadership positions across the fashion industry, while male designers helm the majority of fashion houses.

celebrates the full breadth of womanhood; the women who turned the industry on its head redefined the fashion industry on their terms, have become inspirations for all of us, and are changing the public's perceptions that women can lead.

English-French Couturier Charles Frederick Worth is described as having created the institution of haute couture. As such the sector where the economic stakes are highest is assumed to

Our cover story featuring Sage Paul is symbolic of women's potential as well as a representative of the right women hold to set the standards and expectations when it comes to imagining their own future.

"Perhaps it is not a question of why men still run the fashion industry, but how are we nourishing the female power?" have always been a male preserve. That is why the top echelons are still run by men. The history of haute couture may suggest otherwise; in the late seventeenth century during the crucial origin of the modern fashion industry, haute couture was produced by women, for women. The couturières rather than couturiers dictated the rules of fashion. With myriad issues challenging women, the female has never been more critical to fashion than now. There is no force more powerful than women to transform society. When men dictate, fashion is more about fantasy and concept, rather than the reality of how women dress. Women are more independent, well-traveled and knowledgeable than ever before. Spearheading some of the most influential concepts in the business of fashion, they work to make their own choices. With a strong and ever-growing presence of female leadership, fashion from a women’s point of view can be felt from high-end to the high street. There is an abundance of powerful women in the industry who are poised to take things over and forge their way to the top. Women are amazing and deserve to be celebrated every day. American activist Marian White Edelman famously said, “You can’t be what you can’t see.” In her spirit, FORWARD

The Women's Issue is proof that women do run the world as we at Forward shine our light on women whose accomplishments are nothing short of extraordinary.

How often do we meet a high-powered woman who has it all? Very often! The question is how often do we honor all the amazing women who have had a profound impact on the fashion industry, not quite. So meet Sonia Zarbatany, leader of a multi-million dollar fashion powerhouse, who is an entrepreneur, a coach, and a speaker. Not to mention balancing a healthy family lifestyle, also as a mother, wife, daughter, and a friend. FORWARD steps out with men's stylist Patricia Trépanier as she makes us appreciate the power of good dressing. Her styling service has changed not only the way men dress but the way they understand and appreciate fashion. From media titans to entrepreneurs, philanthropists to fashion lawyers, ground-breaking designers to confident models who defy typical beauty standards, or iconic photographers to powerful editors. The Women's Issue explores the leading ladies who inspire us all. We are in an inspiring time of change and empowerment. Perhaps it is not a question of why men still run the fashion industry, but how are we nourishing the female power? FORWARD embraces sisterhood by appreciating some of the women who are doing extraordinary work in the local fashion industry.

Ugyen Wangmo

Editor-in-Chief

Arty Law: Interview with

meet Aicha Tohry, lawyer and founder of Montreal-based practice ARTY LAW, offering tailored legal services to the creative industry

icha Tohry started her journey as an intellectual property lawyer, her initial interest. She then decided to explore the creative industries, as a whole. The opportunity to write blog posts and research

the creative field that rely on intellectual property.

for Rachel Fischbeinâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; the founder of Law

entrepreneurs with quality legal information.

on the Runway, a San Francisco-based law firmâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; triggered her interest to see beyond intellectual property. She interned briefly at a contemporary art center and ended up articling at an Information Technology company. These experiences allowed Tohry to learn about the specificities within different aspects of

Today, through ARTY LAW, she assists creative entrepreneurs with all their legal needs. She is approachable and eager to share her knowledge and experience to support creative

FORWARD took advantage of her expertise and her interest in providing legal services to creative industries to educate us on everything we need to know about fashion law. Why did you become an attorney for creative entrepreneurs,

a Fashion Lawyer

Sometimes, I'm running around because I have new or current clients to meet, as well as events to attend. There are days where all I do is writing because I have documents to deliver. I usually try to have a good mix of meetings, drafting, and a conference or networking event at the end of the day. What do you like most about your profession? How fascinating and creative my clients are. Some attorneys would go insane at the thought of dealing with people who are more right-brained, but I love it. Moreover, it is always fun to tell your lawyer friends you have spent the afternoon hanging out at your client's studio. How does a fashion lawyer differentiate themselves from any other lawyers? To be a fashion lawyer, I genuinely think you need to like fashion. It won't necessarily help you draft [better] contracts, but your clients will appreciate you. I also think fashion lawyers have a better understanding of how the industry works, which is essential when it comes to working in a small ecosystem. Finally, fashion lawyers should be well versed in many areas of the law. At an intellectual property law firm, it might be enough to know just about intellectual property but to be a good fashion lawyer, you need to be well versed in various aspects such as business law, intellectual property law, IT law, privacy law, and more. Why is fashion law important? I think people often find fashion law ridiculous, but the fashion industry generates more than a trillion dollars annually. On a smaller scale, the law is the foundation of any healthy fashion business.

Images courtesy of Arty Law

and in particular a fashion lawyer? I am obsessed with creativity. I am a geek who is in love with art and fashion, so I wanted to find a way to marry my interest in law with my creative side. Also, there is very little legal awareness in creative industries, so I want to fill that void and make the law a little less intimidating. What inspired you to become a fashion lawyer? The fashion industry is fascinating, especially in Montreal. It is such a small ecosystem, and very few lawyers have managed (or even bothered) to be a part of it. Insight into the working day of a fashion lawyer. It is less glamorous than people think. I wake up, go through my to-do list and go through my emails. What I do next really depends on the kind of the day I have ahead of me.

In your job, how much do you think that the way you dress and present yourself is significant? Ultimately, I do not think anyone cares because people do not expect lawyers to dress well (and by well I mean fashionably), regardless. Also, most fashion designers I've met wear sweatpants on a regular basis. However, when I meet fashion clients, I do dress a little differently. I often wear things that I already have in my wardrobe, but that I know clients will notice to comment. Believe it or not, talking about personal style genuinely helps create a deeper connection. Is there any specific knowledge one must obtain before starting fashion law practice? As mentioned previously, being a jack of all trades is essential. Business law and IP law are imperative, but I also don't see how a lawyer could navigate today's fashion industry without being able to draft terms and conditions for a website or without being able to educate your client about privacy laws. The industry has evolved and well-versed in tech law is more important than ever. What could you advise a young designer, launching his/her brand? Get yourself a lawyer and an accountant. Don't see it as an 7

expense, but as an investment. I've met so many creators who have been screwed over by contracts they didn't read or didn't understand, agreements they never bothered getting drafted, laws they didn't know about, bad cash flow management, to name few examples. What kind of lawyer has been helping designers navigate the law traditionally? What can a fashion lawyer do that they cannot? I think business lawyers took care of fashion companies back in the day. However, it is just not enough today. Sure, you can have a business lawyer, an intellectual property lawyer, a tech lawyer, but a fashion lawyer will be able to handle most or all of your needs. Is love of fashion a prerequisite or just a love of law?

"Get yourself a lawyer and an accountant. Don't see it as an expense, but as an investment. I've met so many creators who have been screwed over by contracts they didn't read or didn't understand, agreements they never bothered getting drafted, laws they didn't know about, bad cash flow management, to name few examples." The same way you don't go into aboriginal law if you don't have an interest in the indigenous people, I don't see how you could practice fashion law if you don't remotely like it. What are the challenges of your fashionably legal profession? Every week is challenging! The learning curve is significant, especially when you practice on your own, so I'm continually facing mandates I've never had to deal with before. Your advice to someone who wishes to practice fashion law? You need knowledge in multiple fields. Do whatever you can to gain itâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; write, read, volunteer, or participate in fashion events, and so on. Also, please, do not become a fashion lawyer just because it seems glamorous. It isn't. How do you see the future of fashion law? Might sound contradictory, but I think fashion law will become as complicated as it will be mainstream. A couple of years ago, you would've never even heard about fashion law, and now you can find a variety of articles about it in the media. However, because of how technology is now beautifully merging with fashion, I think designers will have a hard time navigating the compliance aspect of their businesses and lawyers will become more than necessary at that point.

Temple Maison - A Cherished Creation Temple Maison apparel was founded by Baharak Ghafghazi in 2008, relocated to Toronto, in 2014. Unveiled for the first time in 2018 during International Fashion Encounter in Toronto, the Toronto fashion industry got to lay eyes on the vision and elegant style of Temple Maison. Photographer Mehdi Zegna Makeup Artist and Accessory Designer Roshanak Ghaighazi

Temple Maison - A Cherished Creation

So what is in the name? The designers birth name â&#x20AC;&#x153;Baharak inspired temple, Maison.â&#x20AC;? In ancient Persia, the name Baharak was used to describe sacred temples which held the most precious and cherished creations, explains the founder. Photographer Mehdi Zegna Makeup Artist and Accessory Designer Roshanak Ghaighazi

Temple Maison - A Cherished Creation

The world of fashion evolves every day. With hundreds of new designers entering the fashion world daily, it is hard to find exotic and quality apparel that stands out. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Temple Maison is exclusive and custom apparel. It provides an incomparable experience through a careful selection of hand-picked quality apparel, defining our values with a fluid and timeless phrasing, finally playing with contrast art,â&#x20AC;? describes Baharak Ghafghazi. Photographer Mehdi Zegna Makeup Artist and Accessory Designer Roshanak Ghaighazi

POWER-

t a lk s on h ow w om en ca n h av e it a ll

FLOWER GIRL

Photographed by Daniel Cianfarra, in dress by Keepsake

House IT IS NOT OFTEN YOU MEET A WOMAN who has figured out to become the leader of a multi-million dollar fashion powerhouse, all while nailing it as a business and success mentor, coach and speaker. Not to mention balancing a healthy family lifestyle, also as a mother, wife, daughter, and a friend.

Sonia Zarbatany KEYNOTE

Sonia presents a

powerful speech of motivation at Montreal's first

annual Startup

Meet Sonia Zarbatany, Executive Vice-President of Zarby Inc. and President of Vince Camuto Canada, who is also a certified life and business coach. With a lifetime of experience in the fashion industry, she focuses on her passion for helping both

Fashion Week

aspiring and experienced entrepreneurs grow their business in a way that is purposeful, feasible, and profitable. Through coaching events, corporate consulting, working programs or speaking at different events around the country, Sonia Zarbatany inspire women on how to balance a successful business or career, and family while maintaining successful relationships. “Women are strong, powerful superwomen who have to balance it all—in heels with a coffee in one hand, a milk bottle in the other! Women today are fierce. We are strong. We are smart, smarter than ever before. We are beautiful. We are empowered. But, I think the best change we have seen recently, is that women are sisters; we lift each other up, we strengthen one another, we motivate and inspire each other. We are changing the world.” Sonia Zarbatany. FORWARD met Sonia earlier this summer at Startup Fashion Week (SFW) Montreal 2018 (where she is based), and we instantly found motivation in her. She is authentic. Always smiling, and looked at everything in a favorable light. Learning about her success story, and listening to her presentation at SFW business of fashion conference, manifested inspiration in us that it is indeed possible to be successful and achieve a rewarding career life while still pursuing our passion. In an exclusive interview, Zarbatany tells us how she was able to successfully carve her path as a fashion executive and business leader while still making time to enjoy her life, and how others aspiring to follow this lifestyle can do the same. By sharing her insights on challenges of being a women entrepreneur, and how to overcome it, the opportunities, potential, and future of women in fashion, this “CAN DO” ultimate GirlBoss shows us that “women can have it all,” after all!

Who is Sonia Zarbatany? Born in Morocco, raised in Montreal, Sonia Zarbatany was

groomed for the fashion industry from the day she could walk. Born into a family of fashion business (North America licensing and distributing international fashion brands to the Canadian market such as Guess Jeans, XOXO, Kathy Van Zeeland, Sanctuary Clothing, Lui Jo and then Vince Camuto and all Bernard Chaus brands), she was groomed ground up from order entry to customer service to sales, buying and now managing. She has worked in every pocket of the fashion world—from fit model to administrative work, sales, and management. Before going into the family business right away, she traveled across Los Angeles, Las Vegas, New York and then Vancouver to become a certified life and business coach. It is during that seven years she discovered her real passion for helping others live their best life, grow their business, and achieve their financial goals. FORWARD [F]: How did you get started with Fashion in the first place? Sonia Zarbatany [SZ]: Growing up in the fashion industry, my childhood was 100% associated with fashion in every possible 13

way. My father’s fashion company was my second home. Some people went to school to learn math and history. I went to work and learned how to fit for jeans and balance inventory! I also studied business to complement my professional education. From a very young age I was taking on little jobs around the office, from one position to the next, I learned my way through the business. It kind of always felt like I had not chosen fashion, fashion had chosen me. F: Challenges women in fashion. SZ: There are a few significant challenges, but as a woman, I would say the biggest one is a full-time mom as well as a fulltime businesswoman. From speaking to coaching and consulting I enjoy working with people to grow their business,

ahead. Hire a coach/ consultant like me who can help you create a game plan for your business and give you a step-bystep model for success. F: How do you stay motivated, every day? SZ: I have an inner hunger and drive to want more, to keep building my empire and keep inspiring the next generation to be successful in this industry or whatever industry they love. I was fortunate enough to achieve success in my career early on in life; now the shift is about helping others make the same. Hence why I became a certified life and business coach, dedicate as much time consulting and coaching others on achieving their best growth and business. My drive is to give them the tools to access the goals they desire.

“Women are strong, powerful superwomen who have to balance it all—in heels with a coffee in one hand, a milk bottle in the other! Women today are fierce. We are strong. We are smart, smarter than ever before. We are beautiful. We are empowered. But, I think the best change we have seen recently, is that women are sisters; we lift each other up, we strengthen one another, we motivate and inspire each other. We are changing the world.” and help find their passion. I love to spend time with my children, my husband, and friends. Balancing work and family is my greatest challenge. To work in this fast-paced, non-stop industry is a 24-hour job! Scheduling quality family time while also growing a brand can sometimes feel like the day is never-ending. F: How do you overcome these challenges? SZ: Scheduling! Everything in my life is scheduled! I schedule my time down to the minute, and I make to-do lists, I prioritize, I enlist help, I try not to micromanage, I surround myself with a great team who love to help. Every Sunday I plan my week. Every hour is scheduled, I have weekly goals to hit, to-do lists and flagged emails, but at the end of the week, I always want to make sure I took actions steps to move the business and brand forward. I get it all done in the best way I know how because I want my kids to see that women can do it all! Being an inspiration for our daughters inspired me to keep working and always strive for more. F: What advice can you give a young business-oriented woman looking for a future in the fashion Industry? SZ: Do your due diligence, get a mentor and intern! Learn everything you can about this industry, follow critical people in the industry online, watch and learn as much as you can from each department of the industry, then get in on the ground floor and gain experience. Anything you can learn will help you get 14

F: Advice on how women achieve work-life balance? SZ: By trying your best. By scheduling, prioritizing and being ok with not always managing it perfectly. Some days you will feel on top of the world, other time you will have sleepless nights spent taking care of your sick kids, thinking about your 7 am board meeting! Also, get out there and hustle! Network by connecting with people in the fashion industry, follow their social media accounts and attend fashion events. I always say you are whom you surround yourself with, so choose wisely! The right connections and mentors will be critical for you. If you do not have years of hands-on experience, then be knowledgeable, be a trendsetter, and set yourself apart from the pack. I have been using my Instagram platform to give concrete tips and tricks to my followers how they can achieve more in their life. Daily motivation and suggestions are what keeps us focused on our goals and moving towards them. F: Define “Woman” in today’s day and age? SZ: Women are strong, powerful superwomen who have to balance it all in heels with a coffee in one hand, a milk bottle in the other! Women today are fierce. We are strong. We are smart, smarter than ever before. We are beautiful. We are empowered. However, I think the best change we have seen recently, is that women are sisters; we lift each other up, we strengthen one another, we motivate and inspire each other. We are changing the world.

F: “Fashion and women” comment. SZ: Ever-changing. Ever-evolving, timeless and beautiful. Fashion is a feeling, a morning routine where your personality can shine through. What we wear represents us, and for the longest time, men decided what women wore, because men owned the dominant fashion houses and held the highest positions in the industry. It is not like that anymore! F: Potential of women in fashion. And how to promote yourself in the industry on their abilities. SZ: A woman’s potential in any business, fashion included, is as high as the sky above; it is limitless. Today more than ever, women have a seat, or many seats, at the table. We can design and market clothes based on our experience of wearing and buying those same clothes. There are many ways to promote yourself in the industry, and social media is an obvious go-to. But, there are events, workshops, seminars and other types of outlets for people to get into the business–man or –woman. The key is to find your passion and place in the industry. Is it design? Marketing? Production? Logistics? Sales? Once you identify which department you love, then it is easier to go out and make it yours! F: The importance of women in Fashion. The direction it is taking and the future of women in the industry? SZ: Women are and always have been innovators. We are creators, and we are idea makers. One of the most significant things women are doing for fashion, and all businesses are opening doors to brand new ways of doing business. It is undeniable that women have always been the nucleus of the fashion industry; there have been female pioneers and trendsetters that paved the way for the rest of us, from Coco Chanel and Diane Von Furstenberg to Twiggy and Vivienne Westwood. Our presence has always been felt and, finally today, the world knows it. F: What do you like to see [happen] for women and their place in the industry? SZ: I would like to see more high-powered positions given to women and for women to feel empowered enough to apply for those positions. I want women to have the confidence to know what they want and to

HOME SWEET HOME

Sonia models for Fall 2018 of Industry Active photographed by @lbkphotography

go after it. I would also like for women to know their worth and demand equal pay. I believe in women helping and inspiring other women to achieve the greatest success. I believe in collaboration over competition and women coming together to grow and uplift each other in this industry. 15

F: How can women learn to build confidence, speak up and better market themselves in the industry? SZ: Be humble, be happy, always be the hardest working person in the room, and make time for those you love no matter how hectic life is - letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s face it - it will always be hectic! These are the words I live by every day. F: Success is: SZ: When I go to sleep at night, kiss my kids, my husband, turn my phone on silent and just smile, because I know I am EXACTLY where I am meant to be, and I am just happy! Follow Sonia Zarbatany on Instagram @soniazarbatany and visit her website soniazarbatany.com to book coaching sessions with Sonia for professional advice tailored to your needs.

MAMA BEAR

Sonia never stop being a family gal full of love, here photographed by

Ver Sepas with husband Alain Elmaleh, stepsons Eitan Elmaleh (left) and Noah Elmaleh (right), and daughter Mia Elmaleh.

Nadia Signore

The headhunter who can help you find your dream job

he fashion industry is one of the most competitive businesses you will ever see. To find a job in fashion, and to be successful in a market as big as the fashion industry, you need to know how to get your foot in the door, which is where the skills of Nadia Signore come in. A Recruitment Director at Prestige

then transitioned into recruitment (several years ago) which is reflective of her passions - fashion, marketing and people.

Recruitment - the top Montreal-based boutique firm that works with fashion retailers and wholesalers, Canada-wide - will help you find the position that is a right fit for both you and the employer.

She talked about the fashion's job market, how job seekers can make themselves stand out, advised on how to stay on top of the game, and also on the potential of women in fashion.

Nadia Signore is a passionate Recruiter, with an education in

FORWARD [F]: Insights into fashion's job market?

Fashion Marketing from LaSalle College International in Montreal. Signore is equipped with more than a decade of expertise in the fashion business. She interned with Tommy Hilfiger after her graduation, and it was an experience that gave her the hands-on skills to all aspects of the fashion business. Signore then moved on to a job overseeing marketing for celebrity brands, Sean John and Dereon. She

FORWARD caught up with Signore in between the presentation during the Business of fashion Conference during Startup Fashion Week Montreal earlier this June 2018.

Nadia Signore [NS]: Most of our business is in Montreal which is one of the leading fashion hubs in North America. Many people think (when they hear of closures in retail) that jobs in fashion are not secure - but, that is false. There are

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY NADIA SIGNORE.

many incredible opportunities to work with fashion in Canada (especially Montreal). However with the entry of new international brands in our market industry has become so competitive and as such companies are only looking for top people.

the market and working exclusively with us.

F: Are any particular skills more in demand than others?

F: Most crucial characteristic a fashion candidate should possess to get hired today?

NS: It would depend on the job you do. We have roles in design, e-commerce, marketing, sales, operations - to name a few. And each role requires different skill sets. Its essential for candidates to never stop learning and to always look for ways to be experts at what they do. F: How job hunters can make themselves stand out from the crowd?

NS: Be prepared; be yourself; do not be nervous!

NS: Working in the fashion business is tough, and the person hiring will want to see that you have grit! F: What advice can you give a young business-oriented woman looking for a future in fashion Industry? NS: Understand your skills and capabilities, be open-minded and have a backup plan! Although work-life balance is more

NS: Solid experience and stability is essential and sought out on a CV. The CV is going to get you the interview, so make sure its current, it looks good, and consider using a professional to get it done! Most companies are afraid of jobhoppers so if you do tend to move around a lot, settle down somewhere before you make any moves.

common today in fashion, it is still not the norm. It may be that the job of your dreams will not allow you to have work-life balance, so if this is important to you, pursue something you love just as much, that can give you the life you would enjoy.

F: What makes a good fashion candidate?

NS: Women today have to juggle work, family responsibilities, and their social life. Women have become leaders in their professions more today than at any other time. Most of the roles in fashion, I feel are held by strong and smart women!

NS: It depends on the job - but in fashion, the job requirements are always so precise and cannot be learned. A good candidate will realize their capabilities and seek roles they can do with their eyes closed.

F: On women and fashion.

F: What are the roles available for graduates, or someone just starting out in the industry?

The sky is the limit for women in the industry. Based on my years in recruiting, I have not seen any limitation for women and their careers.

NS: I always say that the stepping stone to any role is corporate customer service. New grads can also pick up “junior” or “assistant” positions where they would be the right-

So Network and build strong experience continually learning can also lead to great career opportunities, for anyone. Be yourself, be proud of who you are and go out there!

hand to a senior, and this would enable them to learn the role inside-out.

F: Define success.

F: Misconceptions about recruiting firms? NS: There are many. Many candidates think that we find people jobs, but this is false! Although we do assist job seekers, out client is the company hiring, and we are paid by them to find appropriate candidates, according to their needs. I also have people ask if we take a portion of the salary of the person hired - again, untrue! F: The Importance of hiring a Recruiter. NS: We do the work that the hiring manager does not have time to do. We know the business, have strong networks in the field and a growing database of candidates. I alone have over 20,000 followers on LinkedIn, and this number grows daily! We get referrals and work with candidates that are confidentially on 18

F: Top interview tips.

NS: You are successful when you have achieved your personal goals!

Dee Silkie

â&#x20AC;&#x153;A Silkie Girl seamlessly transitions from dinner at the luxury lodge with elegance to drinks at a funky dive bar downtown. The Silkie Girl is always in the know. She is friends with artists, designers, politicians, business executives, and people of influence. She dresses with expensive taste but has a disheveled unpolished look to her. Messy hair with a silk top, she is curious, playful, young at heart and slightly sensual. She smells like cherries and almonds, and makes everyone at the party laugh and feels as if she has known them for years.â&#x20AC;? 19

PILLITTERI ESTATES WINERY IN NIAGARA

Dee Wilkie brings you the Silkie Girls luxuriously wrapped in Dee Silkie.

PILLITTERI ESTATES WINERY IN NIAGARA

Designer Dee Silkie Photographer Caroline Lacoste Jewelery by Monica Frangulea Onset Assistant Hillary LeBlanc Stylist Melani Erogullari Makeup Artist & Hair Stylist Tori Bradbrook Models Nicole Robertson (first, third), Layla Ryan (second, fourth)

Slow Fashion for the Maximalist at the Buy Good. Feel Good. Expo

oes slow fashion have to be minimalist? I

This year over Motherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day weekend I discovered my

think it is a fair, if unusual, question. Judging by my Instagram feed, slow

answer at the Buy Good. Feel Good. (BGFG) Expo. There is, in fact, an abundance of colorful, vibrant slow fashion out

fashion appears to be almost entirely minimalist: a constant parade of white

there just begging for an adventurous style-lover to embrace its diversity.

tees and navy pants with a dash of

millennial pink.

I worked with the BGFG team this year, and part of my task

Full disclosure: my style is minimalist. I am that black, white and gray dresser. My closet is interchangeable with a distinct scarcity of pattern. Navy and polka dots are my big splash-out statements. Sometimes, however, I wonder if this is genuinely my slow fashion style or just a recurring Everlane rut, full of simple tees and solid blazers. Where do the extravagant eco-

streetwear TenFed, the Expo is a space for elevating the growing world of social impact brands and fashion, whether sustainable, fair trade or ethical, is one of the fastest growing areas for social enterprises.

fashionistas find their style?

was highlighting the slow fashion brands exhibiting at the Expo. From hyper-traceable Peggy Sue Collection to urban

The BGFG Expo was launched in 2014 by Rafik Riad, a ABOVE PHOTO PROVIDED BY MYPUTCHI HATS

SARAH JOHNSON IN GURU FOR LIFE

GURU FOR LIFE

LOVE NOT FEAR

ZENDAGI

MATA TRADERS

former development worker with the UN, with just 15 vendors at the Gladstone Hotel. Riad had become frustrated with the boom and bust funding model of international development. The traditional charity model, where governments and business contributed funds to projects intended to alleviate global poverty and environmental degradation, was susceptible to the whims of voluntary donors. Plans were vulnerable to cancellation, regardless of their success and local impact. Like many others, Riad saw the difficulty in creating lasting change in such a volatile environment. In contrast, social enterprises incorporated social and environmental impact into their core business structure. Improving lives, through a diversity of practices like fair wages, health care, and environmental sustainability, was not an afterthought but part of the business’ daily functioning. It was here that Riad decided to dedicate his efforts, helping elevate the world of social impact brands and developing the mindful consumption lifestyle. Today the Expo continues to grow. This May the BGFG Expo welcomed a record 120 lifestyle and service-based social impact exhibitors from around the world. As I strolled through the aisles of the Expo, it became increasingly clear that my Instagram feed had been leading me astray. The fashion booths were a cacophony of color, pattern, embellishment, cut and drape. Perusing the list of vendors online did not do justice to the diversity of looks on display. You had to be in the space to fully appreciate that, despite Instagram’s seemingly endless minimalist stream, the world of slow fashion was [apparently] big, bright and vibrant. Global cultural influences, traditional handicrafts, and modern lifestyles all contribute to the creation of slow fashion for the maximalist. Guru For Life reimagines saris into upcycled and very current dusters and kimonos. Myputchi hats work with artisan weavers in Venezuela to make contemporary sun hats using traditional materials and methods. Mata Traders’ fair trade, hand-block printed dresses, skirts and tops from India come in a variety of on-trend colorways well beyond black and white. Also, this was just a small selection of the fashion and lifestyle brands on display at the Expo. If the vendors themselves had not convinced me that slow fashion has room for the maximalist, seeing the styling of influencers attending BGFG emerge on Instagram definitely would have done the trick. Former Fashion Editor of Post City

Magazine, Karolyne Ellacott @itismekar, aka the Lipstick Bohemian, layered pattern and color from Love Not Fear Inc., Mondo Trading Company, and Tres Bello into a series of fun and modern looks. Sara Johnston @bluemountainwifestyles cultivated a globally inspired classic look pulled from Guru for Life. Rachel Sue @slowfashionmom, embraced color and wearability, translating Mata Traders into perfect, casual summer outfits that move effortlessly from office to impromptu picnic.

MYPUTCHI HATS IN LONDON

With so much inspiration, both from the social impact fashion brands and these incredibly creative influences, my minimalist closest has undergone a little bit of a shakeup. The BGFG Expo revealed a side of slow fashion I had been missing: colorful, global and utterly expressive. It seems that slow fashion has room, and perhaps most importantly inspiration, for all of us. ABOUT THE AUTHOR Sarah Jean Harrison is a sustainability communications specialist working with sustainable fashion and lifestyle brands. An eco-fashionista in love with local food and sustainable design, Sarah Jean is monthly sustainable style columnist with Village Living Magazine. Her work has appeared in The Canadian Organic Farmer, Spin Off Magazine, Alternatives Journal and Eco Warrior Princess.

ZENDAGI

Step Out In Style with Patricia Trepanier

n todays age of digital communication, when

the way they understand and appreciate fashion, and see

human contacts are so quick, the image has become INCREDIBLY important. A quick glance is

themselves.

all it takes someone to formulate an opinion about an individual. Outer appearance plays a significant role in otherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perception of you., but also in lifting

Her skills to create a dialogue between clothing and the body is impeccable, which becomes instantly evident in her style as it enhances whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worn to look better. While we may not be stranger to the image created by Trepanier; we can still use a little more understanding of who she is as an individual that makes her the talent we applaud.

your spirit, and boosting self-confidence. Fashion styling is no more merely wearing expensive clothes or labeled accessories. It is an expression. The way we dress has become essential. However, Fashion styling is not an easy task; it requires patience, eyes for details, the ability to create, and knowledge of trends. Personal Fashion Stylist based in Montreal (Quebec), Patricia Trepanier, has been changing not only the way men dress but

Brief background: I am a Fashion Marketing graduate from Lasalle College, Montreal. I also studied personal fashion stylist (specialized PHOTOS PROVIDED BY PATRICIA TREPANIER.

in men’s fashion) at Les Effrontés, the first style and image agency in Canada. For the last decade, I have been offering consultations as a personal fashion stylist specialized in menswear. The personality of Patricia Trepanier that defines your style: This is a tough question. I think I am a hard working person that values timeless styles. Straight to the point. I appreciate long-term relationships in both business and my personal life. I like to be surrounded by beautiful things, but I am still a minimalist. I invest in a few good quality items that are multipurpose. How did your career in the fashion industry get started? I grew up watching my mother sew; she was a seamstress. As

"I always had more interest in the male aesthetic and did all my project focusing on menswear while in fashion. So growing up in a man’s world made me the women I am today" I would watch her for hours, it breathed in me the existence of fashion. From a young age, fashion has been a part of who I am. I always knew I wanted to work in fashion, but I didn’t realize my job existed until 2005! Thanks to one of my teacher Luc Breton, I am living my passion as a Personal Fashion Stylist for Men. Where do you draw your style inspiration?

years, I guess, made my association with them seem more natural. I always had more interest in the male aesthetic and did all my project focussing on menswear while in fashion. So growing up in a men’s world made me the women I am today,“ A Stylist for Men.” Describe your style in three words. Minimalist. Bold. Hats. Any specific challenges, or opportunities? It is an opportunity for me. There are not so many fashion stylist who are specialized only in men’s fashion, so it is an advantage for me to be an expert in my field. How do you go about making people more confident with their style? You have to dress according to your body type and respect your limits. Own it and feel 100 percent confident with what you are wearing! What is the most prominent misconception people have about what you do as a stylist? Probably the glamorous part. While in reality, we walk around with bags and bags of heavy garment most of the week [laughs].

"Woman are strong, multitasking and sensitive; we need more woman at the top."

I seek timeless styles. Celebrity styles such as James Dean, Marlon Brando, Steve McQueen, and President Kennedy inspires me. While the street styles from Pitti Uomo–a global platform for men’s clothing and accessory collections and for launching new projects in men’s fashion– never miss my gaze. In general, I seek inspiration in everything, from cinema, and art to the streets, and home decor.

Why the fashion industry still has so few women at the top?

What are your favorite components of your job? Why did you choose to become a Stylist for Men?

Message to all the women out there:

I like that every day is different and there is always a new challenge. It is funny that many people ask me why I specialize in men’s fashion. There is no better story than this one to explain for it–I was a tomboy growing up, never wanted to wear girl’s clothes, I would always shop in the boy section, I know I have changed now [laughs]. My father raised me after mom passed away when I was at a very young age. I helped the family company, a trucking business for six years. My daily interaction with men over the

Most fashion houses are family owned, still practicing the old system of passing on the business legacy. However, we see changes with strong female figures such as Sonia Zarbatani, Donatella Versace, Anna Wintour to name just a few, spearheading a successful fashion empire.

Woman are strong, multitasking and sensitive; we need more woman at the top. I want women to find their voice and to take their place if that is where they belong. Focus on your abilities and skills instead of sending a wrong image of yourself on social media. People will take you more seriously if you respect yourself. “Be open-minded, hard-working, welcome new people into your life and be willing to help others and last but not least be humble, no matter where you are.”

Photographer

M i c h e l e Ta r a s presents

the

Breast Cancer Project

Celebrating Life Through Art 28

â&#x20AC;&#x153;[The] Breast Cancer Project is one of the most meaningful things I have ever done throughout my photographic journey, till date. The women I helped, and the women who helped me. We will never forget each other!â&#x20AC;? - Michele Taras, photographer of The Breast Cancer Project. Breast Cancer Project is a project that is emblematic and especial to photographer Michele Taras. It was initiated in 2005 to honor her grandmother lost to throat cancer. The project has brought awareness, inspiration, confidence, and beauty to the Renegades of Breast Cancer. It photographed over 100 women and one man, all survivors of breast cancer. FORWARD takes the privilege to rekindle the experience that has been paramount in bringing laughter,

strength, and beauty; and above all, give meaning to the lives of those women. The first portrait of the project was that of Tara's mom. Her ultra-conservative and modest mom pose topless for the project, with her dad's hands covering her breasts. The picture conveyed the message that men need to support the women while they battle through the breast cancer. Although her mom was not a Breast Cancer survivor, herself, the photograph was the breakthrough image Tara needed to give these women the confidence that it is okay to come forward for self-revelation. With every woman photographed, Tara also connected with them by listening and recording their stories. Barring their stories in front of the camera made them more confident and did indeed make them feel more beautiful with or without their breasts, confirmed the Photographer. It was cathartic. The journey not only helps raise awareness, celebrate and inspire these women; it was also her own realization to appreciate the worth of life.

Michele Taras is a published award-winning photographer. She has received recognition from numerous organizations, including Paris International Photography Awards, The International Photography Awards (Lucie Awards) out of the US, the Photography Master's Cup, Women in Photography International, the Black & White Spider Awards and the Worldwide Photography Gala Awards. She was awarded Bramptonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Citizen Award Acclaim.

with

Art

Michele Taras Photography can be seen in various publications: Surreal Beauty magazine (including cover), Flawless magazine, IMirage magazine, Sheeba, Dark Beauty magazine, Obscurae magazine, Veux magazine, 7th Circle magazine and Vogue Italia, and FORWARD Fashion Magazine.

Title image model Monique; left page top image model Jan; left page bottom image model Danielle and her three children; above image models Danielle (left) and Catherines (right).

Every Woman Campaign Celebrating Real Diversity

CAMPAIGN PHOTOGRAPHER BILLIE CHIASSON

omen’s beauty is not just

of beauty, regardless of their age, appearance,

about shape or size; every

or origin.

woman is beautiful and unique regardless of their age, race,

“It is the starting point to bolster pre-existing

or size.

inclusivity and diversity conversations and take

The Every Woman Campaign in support of CAMH (The Centre for Addiction and Mental Health) is an empowering beauty project celebrating diversity by featuring an array of unretouched models. Every Woman sets an example and takes a stand for diversity through different expressions

them to the next level while also making the critical connection between public health and media,” says Jess Lewis, the campaign producer. The campaign imagery represents the women as individuals empowered beyond their physical beauty. Lewis explained how the photos showcase the women's’ confidence; they are

worthy of not only having their faces

and Burberry.

seen but having their voices and opinions heard.

which went on to be a global success. After its Canadian premiere in early

In 2011 after 10+ years working both

2018, Lewis followed with the Canadian

high-end and commercial fashion,

Every Woman Campaign benefitting

About Jess Lewis

Lewis took a break and returned to the

CAMH, making the essential connection

industry as a plus-size model. She was

between imagery and public health.

Jess Lewis is a producer, talent

inspired by the body positive, inclusive

manager, and mother with a strong

messaging that was happening in the

Lewis continues to work on the

focus on women, representation, and

realm of curve models and wanted to

campaign, editorial and commercial

the media. Toronto-born, she began

contribute as more than a model for

content that bolsters the message of

modeling at the age of 15 and was soon

spreading this revolutionary rhetoric to

inclusivity and diversity.

shooting for major publications including

other markets.

Italian Vogue, W and Elle, and walking on runways around the world for

In 2016, Lewis released the acclaimed

designers including Alexander Wand

documentary Straight/Curve in NYC, BEAUTY OF EVERY WOMEN Production & Creative Director Jess Lewis, Stylist Jessica Albano, Makeup Artist Ronnie Tremblay, Hair Stylist Helen Kenny Models photographed in previous 2 page layout, left to right: Charlotte Singman, Miriam, Sharan Guru, Angela Besharah, Win, Sydney Sarayeva, Karyn Inder, Bree, Damaris, Lesley Hampton

START

Fashion

A Successful Journey with Jodi Goodfellow & A JOB WELL DONE Front, from left to right: Nikole Mutombo, Jodi Goodfellow, Aimon Syeda. Back: Event Volunteers

t a glance, selling fashion and beauty seems like an easy feat compared to the works of other kinds of startups. The fact?

Competition is fierce because the barriers to entry are relatively low in the fashion and beauty industry. As a result, it is a challenging feat to be successful. The largest challenge the startup entrepreneurs face is building and using a suitable network. Startup Fashion Week™ (SFW) has proudly helped many emerging startups – models, entrepreneurs, designers, and creative

media outlets– to break into the fashion industry since 2014. SFW fostered a connected and empowered fashion community which has helped about 350 startups grow into successful and sustainable businesses. Here is a look at the great origin story of SFW with Founder Jodi Goodfellow herself who will definitely inspire you. Brief background on Jodi Goodfellow. I have been a high school teacher for 18 years teaching Art and Co-Op. However, I have always had an entrepreneurial spirit. I did not know how to transfer my ideas and skills into starting a business until I finally came up with a business concept that I felt confident about being able to deploy. I was just a naive entrepreneur, but I learned a lot through trial and error. The personality that made you who you are? I'm patient and creative. Easy going and have confidence in making decisions. Outside of my work life, I live for travel as well as quality time with family and friends. How are you associated with the Fashion Industry? Currently, I am the founder of Startup Fashion Week™, the only fashion week to host in two of Canada's fashion capitals, Montreal and Toronto. Talk about the first dip of your toe into fashion. In 2011 I launched a fashion-tech startup called Fashion Forward. It was a web platform which allowed users to list and

sell from their closet they no longer wanted, or purchase preowned fashion from other users. I lived in a condo with microsized closet space. The idea struck from the need to sell items from my closet when my then boyfriend was moving in. I realized that there was nothing yet like this in Canada specifically for fashion, and so I created it–giving me a start in fashion. SFW is known to have helped many startups grow into successful and sustainable businesses. Brief information. SFW launched in Toronto, 2014. This concept was created as a solution to many problems that I [personally] identified when trying to start a fashion-tech business back in 2011. It was challenging to create mass awareness and difficult to find the right support. So I began hosting events that offered startups in fashion tech an opportunity to educate people about the great things happening in this newly identified hybrid industry. These events led me to Startup Fashion Week. The event hosts a variety of conferences and forums throughout the week and also host a runway show featuring apparel designers, accessory designers, and wearable tech. SFW showcases the most promising Canadian startups in fashion and fashion-tech offering them visibility, credibility, media coverage, networks, and new opportunities. Earlier this summer in June, we launched our debut three-day event in Montreal. It was a highly successful sold-out event that drew in participants from across Canada as well as guests and sponsors from the US and Europe. In October, SFW celebrates 37

its 5th year in Toronto. Your contribution and dedication sure did not go unnoticed. Let's reiterate the hard work that won you the 2018 Toronto Waterfront Award for 'Business & Entrepreneurship'? As the executive producer of SFW, I have helped over 30 Designers, and more than 150 models break into the industry. I am proud to confidently say that I have built a unified community of support comprised of industry partners who want to help startups achieve economic growth - photographers, makeup artists, media, hair stylists, and many other players of the creative industry.

MAKING THE MOST OF IT Stuck inside one late night,

Jodi Goodfellow (photographed) and Aimon Syeda (photographer)

turn a stressful event into

a thrilling photo shoot.

"Attending events (even solo) to make contacts is vital to building confidence and better market themselves in the industry. It may feel uncomfortable the first few times, but then you'll start to pick up on conversation starters and feel a sense of confidence building. A fiveminute conversation with a stranger at an event can sometimes lead to incredible opportunities." Talk about the potential of women in fashion, and how to fully tap on their abilities to succeed. Fashion is an industry that seems to be dominant with talented women - designers, stylists, sewers, pattern makers, models, makeup artists, and many more. Women are creative and able to juggle many responsibilities - even under pressure, which is very common in this industry. Attending events (even solo) to make contacts is vital to building confidence and better market themselves in the industry. It may feel uncomfortable the first few times, but then you'll start to pick up on conversation starters and feel a sense of confidence building. A five-minute conversation with a stranger at an event can sometimes lead to incredible opportunities. You'll never fully perfect your pitch (explaining who you are and what you do) to market yourself and that's ok, it's part of growth and self-discovery. Also, it is essential to learn how to say no sometimes, to achieve work-life balance. Women have strength in being able to balance many responsibilities, but it can also be a weakness as well by taking on too much. So learning when to say no will allow you to focus more and offer your full attention to specific aspects of your life without stressing about all the other things you are trying to juggle. 38

Women that you admire? Rachel Shultz. I admire her for her strong leadership and for being an inspiration to all the women who aspire to start a business. Rachel Shultz â&#x20AC;&#x201C;a woman who built her own cosmetics brand and Academy teaching aspiring MUA's in Montreal. Then there is powerhouse Sonia Zarbatany who juggles multiple roles as President of Vince Camuto Canada, life coach and mom. She's an absolute rockstar! What do you like to see [happen] for women and their place in the industry? I would like to see women support each other, more! The fashion industry is quite competitive, and sometimes that can create friction between different personalities and different players within the industry. I have experienced that myself and never understood that mentality. In my opinion, you can go so much farther as a network supporting each other as opposed to excluding individuals.

Startup Fashion Week

Montreal Visits

nother Startup Fashion Week, another opportunity for local entrepreneurs and small businesses to boost their career. But something is different; the city has changed. Forward was honoured to be invited to

Montreal to cover the Toronto-based networking event debuting in a brand new city (the most fashionable in Canada). While a novice attender would see only the glamour and opportunity in each of the 5 days, Forward saw the growth and teamwork that continues to improve in an annual event fueled by passion. From esteemed speakers (Aicha Tohry, P.6; Sonia Zarbatany, P.12; Nadia Signore, P.17; Patricia Trepanier, P.26) to charming venues, each workshop and cocktail party ushered attendees to the highly anticipated runway show at the Crowley Arts Centre. It is our pleasure to introduce you to the designers that hit the catwalk so hard, we will not blame you for shopping their online stores tonight!

Ageselao

Designer Ageselao “Selo” Karakatsanis of Toronto Inspired by ancient greek culture and martial arts Launched November 2017 Price Range $25 - $85 Materials include Spandex Recognized for neutral toned athleisure

From the Designer

Next Steps: “We must pay homage to the ones that came before us while innovating the present for a better future.” Advice: “Do not let the big guys [corporation] stealing designs limit you. Be resourceful with each thing you can. Do not try to compete with price points.”

Photo courtesy of Ageselao website

SFW: Montreal EMY Armor

From the Designer

Next Steps: “Integrate into more retail spaces. My customers need to be able to see the quality of my pieces and try them on.” (She is also seeking out partnerships.) Advice: “There are always obstacles pushing you back but you must

Photography by Gabriela Opas

Designer Bianca Cordileone of Montreal Inspired by Renaissance royalty wardrobes, knights armor, ornamented jewels, and television show Game of Thrones Launched Autumn 2016 Price Range $35 - $637 Materials include mainly hardware Recognized for metal statement pieces and body harnesses, equally glamorous and rebellious

continue existing.”

See EMY Armor in our Designer Issue featured in the editorial named "Goddess of Desire" by Liana Carbone

F.Capuano

See F.Capuano in our Designer Issue featured in the editorial named "Universalies" by Sarah Ostiguy

Photography by The Little Studio

Designer Fanny Capuano of Montreal Inspired by the people around her, and the romantic ambiances. In her current collection, her inspiration stemmed from the vision of women in brightly saturated colours, picnicing in the meadows between Norway's mountains. However each collection brings a different universal tale to the online store. Price Range $35 - $255 Recognized for versatile feminine favourites

SFW: Montreal Designer Khanh Cao of Montreal Inspired by determination and resilience to create a genuine place for integrity in the realm of the apparel industry Launched 2017 Price Range $32 - $56 Materials -blah Recognized for simple clothing that features a touch of elegance to innovate the dullness of a ready-made wardrobe

From the Designer

Next Steps: “Carve out a niche among the leading brands in ethical ready-made fashion within 3 years... My next dream is to create a foundation that would allow orphans and young children who do not have a family go to school, and another that would help the elderly as they grow older.” Advice: “Do not be afraid to get out of your comfort zone and reach for your dreams. Everything is possible if you have hope and belief in yourself.”

Photo courtesy of BKANNE website

Photography by Peter Jung

BKANNE

Colors of the Sky

Photography by Peter Jung

Designer Vireil Mesidor of Montreal Inspired by sun goddesses, Caribbean Islands, and confident women Price Range $33 - $160 Materials Italian spandex Recognized for swimwear of exceptional fit, comfort and seductive cut out silhouettes

Photos courtesy of Colors of the Sky website

SFW: Montreal Malika Rajani

Designer Malika Rajani Inspired by fine leather and elegant designs Launched 2008 in Lord & Taylorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s line debut in New York Price Range $300 - $1 195 Materials include her trademark handwoven lambskin Recognized for unconventionally designed outerwear with a contemporary edge

Photos courtesy of Malika Rajani website

Monkland Village Design

Photos courtesy of Monkland Village Designs website

Designer Marina Danko of Montreal Inspired by a market need for a new, conscious, eco-friendly, natural alternative the the down jacket Price Range $549 - $1 680 Materials include alpaca fibre Recognized for for using alpaca fibre to create cool-yet-classic outerwear

SFW: Montreal

Photography courtesy of Magnifuque Brunette Magazine

HATCHI

Designer Selma Benterki of Montreal Inspired by its foundersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; multicultural background Launched September 2017 Price Range $45 - $295 Materials include environmental conscious silk, wool, modal, and recycled polyester Recognized for having it all: comfort, style, ethical material, and an affordable price point; a millenial's go-to store

Photos courtesy of HATCHI website

Photography by Peter Jung

Jillian Joy

Designer Jillian Joy of Toronto Inspired by her summer of 2017 spent in the Philippines to combine modern bridal desires with traditional cultural inspiration in her Iglesia Collection of Fall/Winter 2018 Launched Spring 2018 Price Range dependent on each custom design Materials dependent on each custom design Recognized for her exceptional skills in draping and quality constructionâ&#x20AC;Ś as well as the traditional use of butterfly sleeves with a modern twist

See editorial and article on designer Jillian Joy on page 52, with beautiful photos like this one by photographer Gloria Liang.

Sage Paul a Common

thread that binds

Indigenous Communities

together

n an era when issues of appropriation and representation of Indigenous fashion are abounding, Sage Paul, on the other hand, has carved out space for Indigenous designers to create and thrive, specifically Indigenous women, whereby the authenticity and cultural heritage remain preserved and celebrated. A trailblazer transforming Ontario (as honored by Ontario Minister of the Status of Women), Sage Paul is without a doubt the definition of “women of influence.” In an awakening interview, Paul communicates the strength and meaning of Indigenous fashion by talking about “Authentic Appropriations,” to the intersection of Indigenous and nonIndigenous design, and to bringing the first ever Indigenous Fashion Week to Toronto. There is a story, and the Indigenous know how to tell a story through their art. It comes just as natural as it is meaningful for them. Let us delve into the artistic realm of Sage Paul as she tells her story to FORWARD.

Sage Paul. She is an urban Dene woman, and a member of the English River First Nation. She is a designer; an artist; facilitator of Indigenous fashion, crafts, and textiles. She is also the artistic director of Indigenous Fashion Week Toronto (IFWTO). Sage Paul is not an artist who does things by halfmeasures, she is an innovative leader championing family, sovereignty, and resistance for balance through Indigenous fashion, arts and craft. When asked to comment on the expectation to do things that were considered Native (on her being an Indigenous designer), she stated, “I do not create based on expectations. I believe culture is art; culture and community cultivate art! Traditional stories and practices are timeless and will always be relevant to any new design.” THE BEGINNING

Fashion was instilled in me at a young age. My family and the community I grew up in made our own fashion, regalia, and crafts because it is culturally our way of life, and also because we had to. We could not get it anywhere else. Fashion and textiles are forms of Indigenous expression, culture, and storytelling that only we can share. For example, right now I am really into exploring the witigo spirit, and the correlations between cannibalism and capitalism. So this moves me in profound ways to ensure we are a part of and have access to the broader Canadian dialogue- where we create and disseminate our work. The personality of my design is tailored, smart, and it is all about working with the community and family. Each collection I make weaves personal, cultural and ancestral narratives that I share with the community and family. VISION I strive to carve out space for Indigenous designers to create and thrive, specifically Indigenous women like my sister and me. I do it by leading by example and showcasing my work at fashion festivals and exhibitions. I produce workshops, like weaving, so Indigenous women can have free access and equal privileges; or create a multi-faceted platform such as Indigenous Fashion Week Toronto, that debuted in 2018. My vision is to create a platform for Indigenous artists and designers to create and tell our stories. In that space created, I

imagine we celebrate; we do celebrate (Indigenous or not)! BEING INDIGENOUS IN THE INDUSTRY. I imagine I will be learning what it means to be Indigenous in the industry throughout my entire life. Right now, I am excited to contribute to the industry; be it as a designer, or artistic director of Indigenous Fashion Week Toronto or as the advisory board member for the Ryerson School of Fashion and by developing an Indigenous Fashion elective course for George Brown College. I am also very excited to see, advocate for and be a part of the Indigenous Fashion Industry that is gathering momentum and visibility. I have only been on this planet for a few decades. However,

knowing the history of Canada, the intersection of Indigenous and non-Indigenous ways of life are fraught with colonization and appropriation, including design. That fact makes it complicated to understand how Indigenous and nonIndigenous design intersect. The Indian Act (est. 1876) did not allow Indians to leave the reserve without the permission of an Indian Agent, including to do business or trade. At the same time, Indigenous culture, people, and land were stolen and sold by the colonizers to build a prosperous country (for the colonizers). It was a purposeful tactic to disadvantage and erase Indigenous people, which still impacts today. Many Indigenous people before me fought through that 47

GIVING LIFE Model Skye Paul in Raw Hide Cast Bus & Cotton Patient Gown by Photographer Ratul Debnath

struggle and continue to do so, with the hope that we have fundamental equality and access to live (some still do not). With that reality, plus fashion being hard to break into, I am grateful to get to make a living in fashion (and I work hard at it). I do not believe our history allows for a balanced intersection. Although, I do see a space for Indigenous and non-Indigenous design working in collaboration and beside each other. There is progress happening; I am cautious but still excited about it. There are fashion weeks, festivals and galleries across Canada and around the world that present Indigenous designers. Those platforms are great facilitators of the global Indigenous art movement happening right now, many of them founded or led by Indigenous artists, managers, and curators. For me, this is the most exciting platform to show and disseminate my work.

The Indian Act (est. 1876) did not allow Indians to leave the reserve without the permission of an Indian Agent, including to do business or trade. For commercial prospects, I see many designers selling custom work on consignment (in physical stores and gift shops, but also online like in the Bethany Yellowtail Collective), following the pow wow trail as a retail vendor in the summer, and selling online through platforms like Instagram and Etsy. A new Indigenous-owned ecommerce site called Indig Inc. looks promising. Established designers open their retail shops, wholesale their garments and sell their work to private or public art collections. ON 'AUTHENTIC APPROPRIATE' AND 'CULTURE APPROPRIATION' When I was young, I did not see my culture on my TV, let alone “Indigenous fashion,” unless it was a white person or goofy animation in some archaic racist costume. I hate that. However, I wanted to do fashion and kept at it regardless. In 2011, I coined the term “Authentic Appropriations,” I self-presented my first collection out of school for my family and friends and blogged on Indigenous street style with some posts featuring my designs. I wanted to confront those stereotypes and appropriations I faced by creating spaces for us, where we could authentically represent ourselves. My blog boilerplate read “The Authentic Appropriations blog explores the current fashion trends of urban Indigenous people. In an attempt to challenge stereotypical imagery, the blog features the innovative styling of men and women from various Indigenous nations; Authentic Appropriations presents Indigenous people as we are today.” 49

Cultural appropriation is a complex issue. I specifically speak to Indigenous cultural appropriation, because that is what I experience. I think what makes cultural appropriation problematic is when dominant groups knowingly or unknowingly take our resources (like our designs and stories) for their gain and do not give back to advocate for or support us. It is a hindrance to our progression. A modern, commercial fashion example: Urban Outfitters was mass producing and profiting from a “Navajo print pantie.” Urban Outfitters did not consult the Navajo nation to understand what is and is not appropriate protocol, they did not collaborate with an Indigenous designer to create an authentic print, and they did not give any profits back into the community to foster

women, to live strongly with gratitude, curiosity, and generosity. The fashion industry is dominated by women, although like all other industries, men still make more money than women. I think women have the potential to set the standards and expectations when it comes to what happens in the industry. By building platforms with meaningful mandates, support and opportunities significantly increase for women to thrive in fashion. I expect women will continue to dominate the fashion industry. it is up to us to imagine our future. I think we have to stay focused on making good work as well as taking risks together.

I think what makes cultural appropriation problematic is when dominant groups knowingly or unknowingly take our resources (like our designs and stories) for their gain and do not give back to advocate for or support us. It is a hindrance to our progression. sustainability. Cultural appropriation perpetuates as a tool for colonization. ON 'ANTI-FASHION.' Western and mainstream fashion is often seen to be about gaining and showing high social status. Buzzwords like “fashionista” “VIP” and “luxury” are tossed around to create luring illusions for the consumer. I assume people are turned off by fashion because of that. Anti-fashion resists that illusion. To me, anti-fashion is to use fashion as a form of expression, a language, and a tool. Fashion is incredibly accessible and can unify and connect people, culture, history, politics, religion, trends, scenes, utilitarianism and more. Fashion is a robust platform in those senses and can be the cursor to something meaningful if approached with strategy, care, and integrity. ON THE DEFINITION OF 'WOMAN' AND THEIR POTENTIAL IN FASHION. As far as the definition of “Woman” in today’s day and age, I can only define “myself.” I feel hugely privileged to be who I am, be where I am and do the work I do. Many people, alongside me, and many before me have worked, died or protested in their capacity to bring us to where we are today. I deeply respect those struggles and triumphs and know I have thousands of ancestors standing behind me. I intend to give back in that same way for future generations. I hope my work uplifts people around me, including women and Indigenous

ON THE DEBUT PRESENTATION OF IFWTO IFWTO (Indigenous Fashion Week Toronto) presents Indigenous-made fashion, textiles, and craft. The founding collective of artists and arts managers include me, Sage Paul (Dene), Kerry Swanson (Cree/Ojibwe, Irish and French) and Heather Haynes (Indigenous ally). IFWTO is committed to exploring the deep connections between mainstream fashion, Indigenous art and traditional practice through the presentation for broad audiences and industries. With amplified visibility of and led by Indigenous women, IFWTO is bold, inclusive and accessible. We challenge perceptions of and celebrate Indigenous people and our culture with integrity, innovation, and excellence. We need and deserve a platform to present our work. Every person undeniably interacts with fashion every single day, and Indigenous designers play an essential role in that interaction. Right now there is a visible movement of Indigenous fashion, crafts, and textiles, and because of that, I am excited for perspectives of fashion to go beyond commerce and towards culture and arts. IFWTO was received with arms wide open, by the Indigenous community, but also by those in the fashion, culture and arts industries. The enthusiasm was buzzing, with a distinct essence of family, ancestry, and hope. I anticipate greater Continue on page 118 51

ONE unique dress for

ONE individual woman

The Story of

Jillian Joy Handcrafted

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GLORIA LIANG unless otherwise stated

Growing up, I always had a petite stature and never fit into retail clothes properly. It was hard for me as a young girl who loved to dress up, especially when attending church every Sunday as well as attending many formal events throughout high school. Sewing that was initially just an attempt to address the need for formal custom wear for my peers and myself in my senior year of high school soon became my passion. This is where the Jillian Joy brand began. I pursued a Bachelor of Design at Ryerson University and graduated in Spring 2018. With expertise in draping and quality construction, I specialize in creating classic and timeless silhouettes with modern twists. Since then, I have designed and created more than 100 custom evening wear gowns to women across the Greater Toronto Area. Now, Jillian Joy Hand Crafted, based in Toronto is a made-to-measure business specializing in custom made bridal gowns and evening wear. Founding principle and objectives

As the brand began with my struggle to feel confident and truly myself in what I woreâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;due to the lack of petite clothing that was available in the marketâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;JJHC built on the principle of designing and creating gowns that are made for an individual. It eliminates the situation when women have to make themselves fit into dresses while wishing it was made for them. A primary goal of JJHC is to allow women to express their personalities through their clothing and fashion. With a focus on bridal wear, JJHC aims to help women feel their best especially and most importantly on their wedding day. Brand-Client relation Since the start of JJHC I have received overwhelmingly positive reactions and encouragement. Especially when it comes to important formal events and weddings, women enjoy having gowns created to fit with their tastes and fashion. The following are some excerpts taken from the testimonial portion on the JJHC website (https://www.jillianjoyhc.com/new-page/). "Jillian customized a gown for my wedding. I had a very specific shape and fit that I wanted and knew I could not get

from any old wedding dress store. Jillian took my measurements, listened to what I wanted and ta-da she created it! I chose a silk taffeta material, imported from Italy, for the whole dress because I wanted something simple and elegant. We added some beading to give the dress a little bit of bling, and it was perfect!" (Evangeline Martinez, Toronto). "I was looking for a very specific two-piece wedding dress, and Jillian had the vision and made my dream dress for my dream wedding day! I could not have been happier with the final look. Thank you, Jillian!" (Rebecca Marshello, Toronto). JJHC accentuates the women. I try my best to build all designs off of my clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s character and personal style. Often, I find women shopping in stores decide what current trend in the market suits them best and then find pieces that will match both the trend and their personality. However, I feel it should be the other way around when it

Continue on page 118 53

Photographer Joshua Del Rosario

Studio Tiny Loft Discover the brilliance of Jewelry designed by Tetyana Lypka

StudioTinyLoft.com Photo by Olga Hutsul Photography

we idolize An Interview With

Josiane Laure Modjom A.K.A Malia Indigo

veryone has that person they idolize. It may be anyone, but too often we admire the untouchables and not everyday people doing great things.

Josiane Laure Modjom A.K.A Malia Indigo has been doing great things. She has been championing the Toronto fashion industry. Malia is building a community for professionals working in the plus-size fashion and beauty industry. She put Toronto on the Plus Size fashion map. There isn’t much Malia can’t do. She is a mother, accountant, an entrepreneur, an activist, a plus-size model—the list goes on. Moreover, she is just getting started. Malia Indigo describes herself a “Curvy-frombirth” kind of woman. Born in Cameroon, educated in Paris to earn her Master's degree in Accounting and Management, Malia moved to Canada six years ago to pursue Chartered Professional Accounting designation and is currently established in Toronto with her two daughters. “I come from a modest family, but my desire to succeed has always motivated me to overcome barriers. Nothing came on a gold platter; I had to work five times harder to be accepted and understood,” shares Malia. “My goal is to inspire through actions and achievements.” As she always says, “If you want something, go for it.” Growing up, Malia went through a damaging identity issue. “I did not like my physical appearance and that [dislike] deeply impacted my girlhood,” she told FORWARD. PHOTOGRAPHY BY OLGA HUTSUL WITH WARDROBE BY SUZYQ JEWELS AND MAKEUP ARTIST OF FACES BY EUNIQUE.

Today, she is a fierce, plus-sized model who was motivated to join the fashion industry in celebration of her glorious curves and to inspire women to embrace their identities. Recognizing that body confidence is a state of mind rather than the “state of one’s waistline,” she solidified her place in the world of fashion by working with and encouraging other women to embrace their bodies and love themselves wholly. As the founder and CEO of Malia Indigo (www.maliaindigo), she combines multiple skills to bring diversity to the fashion industry. As a continuous learner, Malia uses her spare time to acquire skills in different fields– marketing, communication, philosophy, politic, Information Technology, and the economy. FORWARD applaud Malia's remarkable accomplishments and message with the following interview: Describe the personality of Josiane Laure Modjom. I am a go taker who always surrounds herself with positive vibes. I define myself as an introvert, positive, strong, proud, ambitious, motivated and respectful woman. Malia Indigo. What is in the name? Malia Indigo (the combination) popped up in my mind a few years ago while I was doing some personal philosophical analysis about "acceptance of difference." Malia Indigo declares a confident and strong woman. I liked the sound of "Malia Indigo"– it was a combination of authenticity, class, and diversity. It is beautiful. It was a revelation to me. I said to myself–I am Malia Indigo; I see myself as Malia Indigo. When I decided to join the fashion industry, I adopted Malia Indigo as my model's name. The genesis of Malia Indigo corporation. Malia Indigo Corporation was created to fill a gap in the fashion industry. The idea came from my frustrations as a plus-sized model

based in Canada. I realized there was a lack of professional platform in Canada to guide and help plus-size models. The positive body movement was always present, but it lacked that safe community where like-minded people can easily find. The professionals in the Plus Size fashion industry required visibility/exposure. I decided to make a change and turned my model name into a business. Malia Indigo Corporation is a fashion network business. Our mission is to bring the fashion community together. We are committed to offering convenient social platform and society at the same time that will help our users to create, find resources and promote themselves. This year, we took it one step further and expanded it to be “Malia Indigo international social media platform” focused on bringing the fashion community together not just locally but internationally. How is Josiane Laure Modjom (aka Malia Indigo) associated with the fashion industry? As a founder of one of the most innovative startups in the greater Toronto area (GTA) as recognized by CBC, I am making a significant impact in the Fashion Industry. CBC Start-Up City program selected Malia Indigo Plus as one of the five most creative/ innovative startups in 2018. Also, we are a

proud producer of two successful international fashion show (Toronto Plus Size Fashion, and Paris Plus Size Fashion Show). What does it mean to be a plus-size model of color? What work needs to be done, still? Being a plus-size model means contributing to creating diversity in fashion. Plus-size models are not usually recognized for their real value and not often included in major projects, but I have faith. I hate talking about color (laughs out loud). Reality is difficult; let us focus on how to overcome difficulties. The success of the plus size industry needs better structure from business entrepreneurs as well from models. Businesses need to take into consideration the inclusion of all sizes. Challenges/advantages you face as a woman in fashion, or as a woman entrepreneur? As a woman in fashion, the main challenges are not regarded as a [real] model because of my size; being discriminated and rejected in the industry; competing with Canadian born models; the absence of paid gigs. While as a woman entrepreneur, my biggest challenges are managing the cash flow; getting support from peers and bringing in proper human-resources considering my tight budget How do you overcome these challenges?

By working hard and staying positive! What advice can you give a young business oriented woman looking for a future in the fashion industry? Set your vision clearly, target your market correctly, focus on quality and keep in mind that the journey won't be easy. How do you stay motivated every day? The desire to accomplish and inspire. I am a big dreamer and believe that anything in life is possible. The people who take inspiration in me inspires me. How can women achieve work-life balance? Organization. Prioritization. Take about the past Malia Indigo Plus Size Fashion Shows. The Toronto Plus Size Fashion 2017 was a successful event well responded by both local and international fashion community. The event [definitely] put Canada on the map, and people can now see Toronto as a hub of talents. While the Paris Plus Size Fashion Show produced in February 2018 which represented over five countries was just as rewarding. What is next? The new Malia Indigo social media platform [www.maliaindigo.com] launched not long ago– a revolution in the whole fashion industry. For the very first time, professionals in fashion will have dedicated social media. We are excited about the Toronto Plus Size Fashion show 2018, scheduled towards the end of October. It is another opportunity for anybody in the fashion to shine and make useful connections. We partnered with well-established brands to produce an incredible international event. “An opportunity not taken is an opportunity missed.” Josiane Laure Modjom A.K.A Malia Indigo, Owner & CEO Malia Indigo Corporation.

Fus

ion

A Stylish Affair When Art & Fashion Collide

rt and fashion unite in a perfect liaison. The realms of art and fashion have long existed in parallel, while they play off one another.

In the fast-paced digital world, the demand for the 'new' driven by the saturated market has inspired even more instances of marriage between the two, art and fashion. As we watch the industrialization of the relationship between contemporary art and fashion, Wdxclusive and Artcnik step out beyond their front door to bring FUSION–the ultimate experience where fashion and art– the wearable art–become affordable. FORWARD lets Wendy Dougan walk us through the unbreakable bond between art and fashion. Brief background on FUSION Wendy Dougan is a personal fashion stylist, an entrepreneur, and the founder of Wdxclusive (www.wdxclusive.com) –an online fashion outlet that brings high-end luxury fashion at an affordable price. While Nicole Laville is a visual artist with a decade of artistic skills as a painter. For the past three years, she has been incorporating her urban paint technique to textiles. The two artists' fused their creative endeavors and brought to life FUSION to embrace the notion that art and fashion can be affordable to the masses. What is the function of FUSION? Fusion functions as a culmination of our talents–as both a career option and a service to women wanting to consume wearable art and look good in an affordable way. More and more the desire to live and benefit off the sweat of one's brow became a tug that neither of us could continue to ignore. Today the competition for the hard-earned dollars of consumers is getting harder and harder. It calls for a different shopping experience. We have curated a space which shows that various fashion/business models are needed to add to the bonanza that is online shopping. Tactile shopping is still important, but we believe pop-ups brings back the excitement of "girls day out." What are the changes/impact made by FUSION in the fashion industry? We help revive that old connection that saw

a strong personal relationship with the clients–such as that of relationship when portrait artists or the commissioned artists had with the wealthy. Alternatively, the “AVON Lady”–where it is about building relationships with people and offering them a high level of service and personal attention. It is a more intimate shopping experience, where the customer feels that what they want matters. Also to know that they have a direct link to the source, unlike the big commercial stores where what they see is what they get. At Fusion, our service responds according to customer needs, not to mention Nicole's custom designed pieces. The relevance of FUSION to women's fashion and how it has impacted their lives? The changes and impact have been in the conversations, encouragement, and referrals by our customers. As a stylist I have developed a close relationship with my clients, I dress them well (when you look good, you feel good), likewise for Nicole, her clients want personal pieces that reflect who they are– there is no better feeling than the pride of wearing a piece created for “You”. We encourage women to feed their passions, and in turn, they do the same for us.

unfold. Toronto women, I feel, have [only] recently started mixing styles and trends with classics pieces. The digital era is a huge opportunity for retailers. The Black artistic scene is no longer as isolated from the mainstream art scene, this has increased opportunity for cross-cultural shoppers. Urban-ism has always included Black esthetic therefore in a multi-diverse town like Toronto sky is the only limit. Define the importance of women in Fashion. Throughout fashion history, women have been a central figure as a consumer. Now more and more women are progressing in the business aspects of the industry. Women are creating what they want to see for themselves, and they are no longer waiting; not just in fashion, but also in many other aspects! It’s a good time, to be around in the fashion world. “Living your dream is a beautiful thing”

Talk about the success of FUSION in the industry. The challenges we face are in finding unique pieces in an array of sizes. Also, sourcing and stocking the pieces from around the world in a way that enables us to pass on the savings to our clients. However, we also see success because of the growing engagement on social media, and happy clients referrals. Community support is now starting with other retailing individuals giving advice and sharing tips. Talk about women and fashion in Toronto. Women who dress according to their personality inspire Nicole. In Toronto, as well as around the world more and more women want to embrace their uniqueness. Moreover, being able to paint something that is one of a kind is appealing to women. They want something that no else has, and that’s what makes it unique. Fashion is moving towards an era of loving and embracing differences. It’s beautiful to watch it all

Above- “Fierce” by Noel Photography with model Wendy Dougan in a top by Piano C, pants by MNG, and shoes by Gwen Stefani. Page 63 - “Urban Wear” by Noel Photography with model Nicole LaVille in a top by Zara, skirt by Love 21, and custom shoes by Artcnik. Page 61 - “Day to Night” by Noel Photography with model Nicole LaVille in a custom jacket by Artcnik, pants by New York & Co, and shoes by Steve Madden. More artwork on page 121.

"It is a more intimate shopping experience, where the customer feels that what they want matters. They have a direct link to the source, unlike the big commercial stores where what they see is what they get."

Hijab

Fa s h i o n

Written by

Julio Sรกnchez Velo, Ph.D

Photographed by

David J. Fulde

, a m a M

Where Did I Leave My Hijab? There is much misinformation in the Western world when it comes to traditional Muslim dress. Many people tend to think that if you cover most of your skin, you cannot be fashionable, cool or stylish. Even today, wearing hijab triggers the outdated stereotypes that it lacks style and that it is tasteless and unattractive. Nothing could be farthest from the truth. The socalled modest fashion –clothing that is fashion-forward with the focal point of keeping women relatively covered–is starting to find a firm footing.

based modeling agency that promotes hijabi models to change the image and the concept around the aspects of traditional models. The first-ever Muslim/Modest Female Modeling Agency was founded by Nailah Lymus, a young Muslim designer from Brooklyn, in 2015 to prove that glamour and Islam can be very much in synch. Then there is Halima Aden, who became one of the first models in the US to wear her hijab on the front cover of several magazines -Vogue Arabia, British Vogue, and Allure, to mention just a few-, as well as on the most coveted runways around the world and even as a contestant in a beauty pageant. She also appeared in Rihanna's Fenty Beauty

"It is necessary to emphasize as well that, to be successful, girls like her had no choice but to leave their hijabs hanging in their closets at home. The challenges imposed by their religion and cultural customs had to be somewhat 'forgotten' as well for the job. They needed to ‘uncover’ themselves if they wanted to make it, and this was very unfortunate" Up until a decade ago, most of the faces we saw in fashion, from runways to magazines, and all other media outlets were very much alike. “Westernized.” We did see some occasional high profile Muslim fashion models in the past, SomaliAmerican fashion model Iman, to mention one– who looked physically different from the rest of the models. It is necessary to emphasize as well that, to be successful, girls like her had no choice but to leave their hijabs hanging in their closets at home. Even the religion and cultural customs had to be somewhat suppressed because of the challenges imposed by industry attitudes towards Muslim dress. They needed to ‘uncover’ themselves if they wanted to make it, and this was very unfortunate. The consent to model in a bathing suit is prevalent even today, risking elimination if they answered ‘No.’ Change has been long overdue, and it is finally happening; we are now seeing numerous modest models shine with their inner light even though they keep mostly covered-up from head to toe. Popular clothing brands and fashion houses are actively seeking diversity and taking on hijab-wearing girls or hijabis to work as models, in their growing tendency to break away from the conservative beauty ideals that had always prevailed. The so-called modest models of the Western world are finally starting to pop up around us, and we love it! There is the exemplary case of UnderWraps, a New York-

campaign video to promote and celebrate diversity. Another notable arrival is Mariah Idrissi, a 23-year-old Londoner of Pakistani and Moroccan heritage, to be part of one of the H&M season’s launching campaign. The large Swedish clothing brand, H&M, always striving to be on the forefront of the industry opted to feature its first hijab-wearing Muslim model in one of their campaigns, to recognize "women that cover their heads" in the fashion world. An eye-opening moment a few years ago was also the Tokyo Fashion Show, attended, amongst others, by designers from Singapore and Malaysia, to showcase their modest wear to the growing Muslim presence in Japan. After watching the numerous hijabi models brought by these designers to the runway, the local public was in awe of the dazzling and trendy variations of how to wear a headscarf, and it spread like wildfire. As a result, in 2016 Uniqlo decided to launch a line of hijabs and modest wear for its Japanese stores, as they could not turn away their head to what seemed to be a growing market with much potential for success. Also, these days many major fashion names starting from high-end luxury brands, to bridge brands to fast fashion, are investing in their collections of modest apparel. In the light of progressing visibility of modest fashion, we are proud to introduce our very own local hijabi model, the beautiful Hodan Yousuf. A Toronto-born Muslim girl of Somali heritage 65

Hodan Yousuf. A Torontoborn Muslim girl of Somali heritage who, at the age of eight finally walked up to her mom and said: “Mama, where did I leave my hijab? I think it’s time for me to wear it now.”

Thanks to the collective work of these industry pioneers, young Muslim girls raised in non-Muslim countries now see themselves increasingly better represented. As the newly appeared hijab wearing models, models who wear 'this piece of clothing' not just as a trendy accessory but as a symbol of their identity, to claim their own space in this competitive industry, young girls are opting to wear the hijabs with pride. Today, hijabs are worn by Muslim women as an inherent part of their ancestry and their identity while still living a fully integrated life within their respective non-Muslim societies. Nowadays women have more options for modest fashion than ever. Luxury brands and fashion powerhouses are fully expanding into modest wear, with these women in mind. It is undeniable that this industry is on the rise, globally, and the Canadian fashion industry is at the forefront of it all. Our own Toronto-based International Modest Fashion & Design Festival (IMFDF) instantly joins the ranks of the inimitable game-

"An eye-opening moment a few years ago was also the Tokyo Fashion Show attended, by designers from Singapore and Malaysia to showcase their modest wear to the growing Muslim presence in Japan... The local public was in awe of the dazzling and trendy variations of how to wear a headscarf, and it spread like wildfire." who at the age of eight finally walked up to her mom and said: “Mama, where did I leave my hijab? I think it’s time for me to wear it now.” From that moment forward she’s been wearing it regularly as the symbol and visible representation of her identity, religion, and culture. With her glowing complexion and glistening eyes, Hodan Yousuf’s beauty captures our attention while she brings to life the garments of Toronto-based, Brazilian designer, Fredsonn Silva Agudá. The designer creates garments for the sophisticated woman of modern times– a woman who lives in multi-cultural, multi-religious, multi-ethnic societies around the world. A clothing fit for anyone regardless of her religion, race, color or class.

changing women of the Modest Fashion Industry. IMFDF is venue driven by young designers, social media influencers and community leaders promoting their passion for modest fashion while supporting female-led businesses around the world. The fashion shows, workshops, and entertainment events, all under one roof, are primarily created to cater to the needs of the emerging modest fashionistas of the world. The journey of modest fashion has just begun!

STUDIO 311

Designer Fredsonn Silva Aguda Makeup Arist & Stylist Paul Langill Model Hodan Yousuf

Modesty a la Mode

You may remember the glamorous photographs from our Ethical Issue as Haafizah Khadero (a student journalist at the University of Guelph-Humber) covered the 4th annual International Modest Fashion and Design Festival (IMFDF). This year, our Business Director Reba Harrison had the honour to attend the 5th annual IMFDF on Saturday, August 25th. Harrison’s arrival experience was one of luxury as The Radisson Admiral Harbourfront Hotel hosted a hive of colourful, flowing fabrics on a variety of Toronto’s fashionistas who had come to celebrate the elegant lifestyle of modesty (a lifestyle often missing on many of the city’s runway shows). A three-part staircase lined with gold handrails lead Harrison to the many tiers of IMFDF. The first landing featured a luscious green photo backdrop, before the second landing hosted the bazaar marketplace. Here, attendees could meet designers and business owners, and purchase anything from silk scarves and unique hijab pins to sparkling gowns and gem filled clutches. The third floor was reserved for models to prepare for the events of the fourth floor, which featured the venue rooftop patio overlooking the CN Tower and Lake Ontario. Both inside and outside, this top landing allowed attendees to marvel at the multi-designer modest runway shows throughout the evening. In 2016, MuslimGirl.com called the event “what dreams are made of,” adding that “often, Muslim women are pushed to see fashion and modesty as being mutually exclusive.” In no uncertain terms, the IMFDF debunked this myth on the event runway and red carpet. In the Western world, it is often assumed that Muslim women are not supposed to take pride in their appearance; not supposed to draw attention to themselves or to be glamorous, and; that modesty itself is a restraint holding women back.

In the same article, titled The International Modest Fashion Design Festival (IMFDF) is Happening Soon! on MuslimGirl.com, IMFDF Festival Director Fatima Beg was quoted: “Our story is giving them [women who chose to dress modestly] power in their own lands to counteract stigmas that covered means oppressed and submissive.” One may argue that with more skin to cover, women of modest fashion have more opportunity to create their style. Across the world, modesty is, in fact, a powerful tool. In her article titled How Muslim Women Use Fashion To Exert Political Influence, Elizabeth Bucar explains that by making modest dressing a symbol of Muslim [women], these women are given the prominent role in constructing the meaning of modern citizenship and therefore political influence (2018). “Modesty is a lifestyle in my definition,” fashion student Shazia Arif tells us as she flaunts her collection of modest apparel at the IMFDF fashion bazaar. “It is more than wearing fabric on your head, or loose fitted clothing, it is an attitude and a characteristic of a person.” Arif’s label Gallerina launched last December and features office appropriate outfits that feel wonderful against the skin with its cotton blend fabric. “Modesty should not limit a person from getting what they want,

rather it should be the driving force to achieve more, while maintaining a balanced and respectful manner,” she adds. Western views often victimize Muslim women in areas of regulation, like Iran, but Bucar explains that Iran’s lack of definition in its apparel laws allows women to interpret rules in their way, resisting the idea of homogenized Islam, and even engaging in a statement called “Bad Hijab” where extreme forms of dressing against legal bindings forces lesser forms of such as more acceptable. (2018). A quick Google search of ‘Modest Fashion’ shows that the term is strongly linked to women of the Muslim faith. However, up until the 1960s, Western fashion was quite modest in the revelation of the skin and curves of the body. British and

American style icons of Hollywood like Grace Kelly and Audrey Hepburn often were photographed in long hemlines and high cut gloves. Furthermore, English Royalty is bound by modest style and idolized, primarily as of the most recent coronation of Elizabeth II. IMFDF held no such misconception. The diversity of its audience mingled Arab, African, South Asian, Iranian, Irish, Turkish, English, and Indian women, to name a few! Variety was furthermore prominent in the wardrobe choices of attendees: from heels to flip-flops; from black niqabs to strappy pastel sundresses, and; from glamorous makeup to au-natural. “Modesty is not limited to a niche of hijab-wearers,” says Arif. “I want to broaden the spectrum and allow others to also enjoy 71

my modest designs without having to couple it with a hijab.” The Canadian-owner and Toronto-based Festival was founded by Nateka Pitter, who is often contacted for advice on similar events around the globe. The press release explains that IMFDF “was created to promote the growing Modest Fashion sector in North America. This revolutionary event is seeded in the concept of harnessing the power of individual consumers and driving an

entire fashion segment to success.” Echoed in the audience was a common consumer frustration: women of modest fashion are tired of being forced to layer clothing (especially in this sizzling summer) simply because mainstream apparel stores neglect to consider their customer needs within their designs.

“The largest challenge I have faced in owning a modest style has to be the lack of options available to accommodate [what I want]. The moment you have to start layering, often the elegance of an outfit is lost,” says Arif. “It’s been way too long that modest dressers have been set aside from mainstream fashion, and forced to wear clothes that are years outdated.” IMFDF Media Contact and Lead Publicist Romana Mirza is

entering her Masters in Ryerson University for Fashion Studies, researching and developing insights to support the modest fashion industry. Mirza explained to us that there is no need for brands to draw a line in their designs, creating a separate collection for Modesty: “The modest fashion consumer is not looking for mainstream brands to recreate what we [modest

Photos courtesy of IMFDF.

designers] already do so well. You can see from our marketplace [IMFDF Bazaar] how good we are at creating our own designs, inspired by our varying ethnicities and backgrounds. In my opinion, what we are looking to mainstream brands to do is what they do best with an eye to more coverage. Fill in the gap between a 3/4 and full-length sleeve, drop the hemline that rises in the front above the ankles; small adjustments that would make the clothes they already produce a perfect fit for the modest fashion consumer. And don't ignore diversity at the modest fashion door, be sure to include all body types, that includes plus, petite and tall!â&#x20AC;? The IMFDF bazaar shopping market featured a variety of vendors from the Instagram-famous cutesy label Black Orchid, to collector Malika Nagpal of High Key Low Key, glamorous costume jewelry destination. The market offered formal wear, office wear, loungewear, and streetwear. From glitzy to casual, each vendor was sure to talk about their attention to fabric when curating their collections, ensuring each piece was light and breezy for a comfortable summer. Considering the consumption power of women around the world seeking modest designs for everyday wear, brands would be crazy not to profit from the simple idea of longer hemlines and lighter fabrics. According to the State of the Global Islamic Economy 2017-2018 report by Thomas Reuters of Islamic Finance, Muslims spent an estimated $254 billion on apparel and footwear in 2016, an increase of 4 percent from the previous year. This number makes the Muslim market the third largest global clothing market, with Turkey as the leading country market with the UAE following as second, with the most developed Islamic economy for the Fashion Industry. The report expects annual growth of 7 percent, reaching $373 billion by 2022, with Muslim millennial women driving a significant portion of the market forward. Needless to say, if companies in the beauty and fashion industry are looking to create a future of success for themselves, it would be prudent to pay attention to the strong, fashion women of modesty.

Watch for interviews with vendors and designers of this year's IMFDF on our very own blog at www.ForwardFashionToronto.com 73

PCP Clothing Inc. presents

The

Resist Collection

Resist the rules that hold us back, Resist the barriers that keep you small. Be bold, be great, be you.

Resist waste, Resist damaging the environment. Be clean, be healthy, build beauty.

Resist profits over people, Resist negativity. Be generous, be positivity, be fantastic, be amazing. This is our protest, our Glitter Anarchy.

We will PROVE. THEM. WRONG. 75

The “Resist” Collection is the creative protest against the negative aspects of the industry, and their commitment to be the exact opposite. This collection expresses the brands' commitment to sustainability as a company. Sustainability of economy, society, and the environment. In 2017, PCP Clothing Inc began their (quiet) journey towards sustainability as a company, keeping things “low key” by design (no pun intended). “It’s something that we believe in as a company, but this space can be a bit intimidating," says Sylvia Mancini communications manager, and Co-Owner of PCP Clothing Inc. "There is much pressure to do things correctly and many people ready to tell you-you're doing it wrong.” So they decided to lead by example for a year and see how things went. The results? Here are some of the highlights: - All products manufactured in Europe; - An entire leggings line made out of recycled material; - All of the brands' woven tags are made out of recycled bottles; - The brand's hand-loomed fabrics are made with nontoxic dyes

After a year of conscious planning and consideration, the company comes out in full force with a message that one does not have to be perfect to make a difference. Small steps can lead to significant change. Today the brand stands as a proof that sustainability CAN be sexy, fashionable, bold and artistic. With a goal to make sustainable practices mainstream, and no longer carry the intimidating factor it usually endures, with PCP Clothing designs, “It is time to add a little Glitter Anarchy...!!!” 77

Creative Director and Photographer Georgia Esporlas, Art Director Basil Waris, Hair Stylist & Makeup Artist Amrita Jhas, Stylist Nekesa Thomas, Model Maddison Fysh, Managed by Toronto Fashion Academy 81

B R AV E Soles

Shoes with

soul

A female-owned brand produced with dignity while globally inspired; an example of the success of a humanitarian fashion.

Odds are, you have not met Christal Earle, founder and CEO of Brave Soles, and a humanitarian who found inspiration in stateless

“I have seen many garbage dumps around the world, and in those places, the people that work there would allow me the privilege of hearing their stories and of understanding what life was like for them,” said Earle.

house standing water which breeds diseasecarrying mosquitoes… They are dangerous,” pointed out Earle. “However, like many people, I would simply look at it all and say to myself, ‘Someone should do something about these tires.’”

The people in that garbage dump is where she found her inspiration, also the vision which is the base on which the emerging Brave Soles Foundation is built.

One day, while chatting with her neighbor over the new pair of sandals she was wearing, the idea for Brave Soles struck her.

“Brave Soles is a result of me falling in love

However, the caveat to all this is that “I had

with the creative process, and in embracing

no money. I am also a single mom. I had had

the idea of innovating within the framework of people, planet and prosperity for all… One

a crazy adoption endeavor go sideways and have not been able to bring my daughter

of the things we do is help the workers collect recyclables that they can sell to help increase their daily income. Often, these people are stateless who live on a couple of dollars a day,” she explains.

(who came into my life when she was 4, and she is now 13) to Canada yet,” shared Earle.

people at the garbage dumps. However, step into a pair of her Brave Soles and you will get a good idea of what she is about: “Respect people, the planet, and to create a better story for all of us.” Each pair of Braves Soles reflects the personality and passion of the founder. Slipping into those pair of shoes instantly creates a style, comfort, and confidence to embrace your unique story of bravery. No surprise, Earle's story is just as compelling — a humanitarian saga that journeys from a farm in Saskatchewan, Canada, through the developing parts of the world, and to Cabarete, Dominican Republic and back, with an inspiration that gave birth to footwear that is respectful of environment and people. It all began with the youth humanitarian trips. Christal Earle originally co-started international youth humanitarian organization Live Different. She worked with high schools across North America and took hundreds of young leaders to 'developing' parts of the world each year to work alongside those who have been victimized by exploitation and the ravaging effects of poverty. Along Earle's humanitarian journey, her heart and mind woke up to the huge price that fast fashion is costing the global community. One of the places she would take her teams was to the garbage dumps of the communities. In 2005, Earle set foot in a garbage dump on the north coast of Dominican Republic.

Finding Brave Soles in the landfill While working in the landfill, she saw how the garbages were getting burned due to the lack of efficient systems. Tires are one of them. “Tires are toxic when burned. They also

She has to live every two weeks between Toronto and the Dominican Republic and just was not a convenient time for any big decisions. Also, as the humor of serendipity often happens, that is exactly what happened.

ABOVE - Aventura sandals, courtesy of Jamie Lobban LEFT - The Cleopatra, courtesy of Augusto Rosales NEXT PAGE - Cleopatra and Gladiadora sandals, courtesy of Augusto Rosales

“I had no money even to keep things afloat and someone out of the blue gave me $1000. I paid my rent (!) and set aside $250 to start Brave Soles”, she shared.

“We exist to help people make better (fashion) choices; ones that they love and that they can own the story behind. It is a reflection of what they value and want to be part of.”

Meet the Brave Sole

What is in a name?

“Beauty. Inspiration. Kindness.” This is how the founder describes Brave Soles.

“My life has been one long journey of realization that bravery is feeling fear and doing what you need to do anyway. Thinking differently about what is possible and acting upon that inclination takes courage. The label is a reflection and a play on words for us to continually remind people that they are far braver than they give themselves credit for,” says Earle.

Every choice made goes through the lens of value, from materials to people and everything associated with it. 1. Are we doing the best we can with the material we currently have access to? 2. Are all the people along the way being treated fairly and honored for what they bring to the table?

The gratification to delight and inspire is what makes the Brave Soles experience very special here. Three billion tires are produced every year around the globe.

“You should not have to compromise who you are for what you own.” Christal Earle, Co-Founder.

3. Is this item something that we love and want to see people wearing and enjoying? Nobody needs more stuff. However, fashion is the most tangible way we express ourselves. It becomes the story we want to tell others about who we are - whether we know it or not.

There is never going to be a shortage of their raw materials. However, every time the architects of Brave Soles find a new way to upcycle the rubber, it is another victory for creativity and beauty. Moving Forward. Scaling is our next big challenge. We are reaching out to stores across Canada this year, and as we do that, we are focusing

ABOVE - The Constanza, courtesy of Kaitlin Tinis LEFT - Variety of Brave Soles, courtesy of Jamie Lobban

on our story and what people feel when they encounter Brave Soles. Simultaneously, we are also working on our vegan line. We plan to do some production in Toronto as we are finding so many great people in our local industry. There is a thriving community of artisans and inspiring leaders. This is an opportunity for us to get connected more with the creative community and to begin to explore how we can collaborate with key people in the city. In an extended interview, Christal Earle who is also a professional speaker, writer, and communicator since 2000 talks about Women and Fashion. Her knowledge and experience help FORWARD communicate the current edition’s central theme “ WOMEN.” FORWARD [F]: “Fashion and women” (opportunity, challenges), please comment. Christal Earle [CE]: It is strange that up until very recent history, men determined the fashion that women would wear. Fashion can be a form of misogynistic control in a world that refused to embrace that which made them better as a whole. Men occupy many important career spots. In some ways, I think it may be a symptom of the level of expectations we set for ourselves and how we operate under the tyranny of social constraints and gender role expectations. Perhaps it is because we are having the wrong conversation around it. Such as, why does a womans career have to be disrupted by having children? Why do they have to be somehow defined by “having it all” while men are merely assumed that they will “have it all”? F: Talk about the importance of women in Fashion. CE: I think that more women influencing the industry result in more intuitive directions, as a whole. As women, we have the opportunity to recognize both what we can bring to the bigger conversation and direction of the

industry. I would love to see more women exploring the potential for fashion as a force for good in the world and inspiring others to think and wear differently. F: Why do you believe that the fashion industry still has so few women at the senior level? CE: True freedom in anything requires all people to get on board. That solidarity is what we see now around the globe with moves such as #metoo, and the womens marches, to give some example. We cannot complain about something if we are not willing to put ourselves out there for the change. I think instead of the question, “Why are there still so few women at the top?” it should be, “What would the industry look like if there were equality and fair representation at every point along the way?” When we hold a vision in front of us, we give ourselves the ability to move towards it. F: What is your opinion on the idea that Fashion is a female-focused industry which is still predominantly a man's world? CE: I have to be honest in that I think we steer towards wherever we focus. If we keep on telling ourselves that barriers exist, we work towards accommodating those barriers rather than rising above them.

PAGE 88 - Constanza on mother and Bohemia Girl on child, courtesy of Jamie Lobban ABOVE - Cleopatra sandals, courtesy of Augusto Rosales

There is a commonly held myth that seems to be supported over and over again that permits men to be aggressive in their pursuits; the trait becomes them. When women do it, they are a bitch for some reason. The key for me is in the middle: pushing relentlessly forward and bringing others along with me on the journey. In the end, I think part of the challenge that we face as women in any industry is to get over ourselves and change our way of thinking. We need to support and cheer on those strong women who are successful, has worked harder and taken the risk to follow their dream and make a stand on their beliefs. One of the key aspects of innovation is recognizing the limitations and working in spite of them. Change in any industry happens because we are honest with ourselves about the challenges and ask better questions about how we can overcome them. F: What do you perceive as the largest barrier to womens' progress to the top echelon of the industry? CE: Success is not a pie. Someone succeeding does not mean that there is less Continue on page 118

Goodbye Not Goodbye The Beginning of Something New

Annie Thompson studio was a meeting ground for great minds. It was more of a social space where unique individual congregated to talk about anything and everything (while enjoying the design) than just a place for selling fashion. As all good things must come to an end, award-winning Canadian fashion designer and artist based in Toronto, Annie Thompson was necessitated to move out of her Dupont Atelier past this summer.

However, the move is not ‘The End,’ but a beginning of something new; a change, a morphing. Photographer Olga Hutsul memorializes the legacy studio with her lenses as she celebrates the “Goodbye Not Goodbye” party for one last farewell hugs, expression of individuality and of course a huge sale.

Good Luck, Annie Thompson, to a new legacy! - Forward

Spotted!

Our Ethical Issue Cover Girl Rachel Romu savoring the bittersweet event

Honoring

The Fashionable

Philanthropic

Force That is

Joan Kelley Walker

eautiful, Brave, and Bold. That is Joan Kelley Walker (JKW) in three words. This humanitarian's love of giving knows no bounds. Focused on bringing people together and giving back to the community, Walker epitomizes the values of a true philanthropist. To understand Walker as a fashionable and philanthropic force, it is first essential to recognize her as a woman. A professional and inspirational

woman, who is humble, generous, concerned, and a determined advocate. And not to mention an avid fashionista.

“Answering the call to give is what defines me first and foremost,” Walker shares. “My desire for community defines me- this may be because I am from a small town and truly value the importance of good people and support. My family defines me. I am defined by values of kindness and treating others well.” She added that since she can remember she has always loved fashion and style. Writing, acting, radio, and modeling are all also parts of her. “I love feeling good and making others feel good. I appreciate all things beauty,” says Walker.

The point of differentiation that sets her apart as a philanthropist is Walker's stand on how philanthropy is beyond just signing cheques. She volunteers her time and knowledge to create sustainable change through education and love. “It is about changing lives, including one’s own.”

“I approach charity in three different ways, internationally, nationally and locally,” shared Walker. From being an ambassador for World Vision Canada for 18 years, and chairing the United Way of York Region’s Women’s Leadership Counsel she has served on Committee for the Right to Play, and boards at the Rose of Sharon and Athol Murray College of Notre Dame. JKW supports a variety of causes: HIV Aids, poverty, care for mothers and babies, racial discrimination, clean water, nutrition, education, and support for frontline workers. Her philanthropic work has taken her to countries like Mozambique, Cambodia, Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda, and Costa Rica. “These experiences have opened my eyes to the reality of life for women, children and families around the world.”

Locally she works within the city of Toronto for the second year on an initiative called the “Joan Kelley Walker Summer Fashion

Left and above photos by Miz Monday.

Youth Initiative” in conjunction with Cops and Kids and Toronto Fashion Academy. She also volunteers her time and knowledge with Neighborhood Network. Knowing JKW for who she is, a passionate advocate for the world’s most vulnerable children, and also being a huge supporter of all Canadian fashion and a fashionista herself, it comes as no surprise that 93

she is marrying her love of fashion and philanthropy to start The JOAN KELLEY WALKER Collection sold exclusively on Walmart.ca. Joan shares that she will be donating to Breakfast

it is important to stay true to yourself and stay focused on your goals. “I believe in the power of setting goals, making plans, seeking mentors, and being open to make adjustments along

Club of Canada for every purchase to ensure that children have the equal opportunity to proper nutrition.

the way. It is all about the vision. I always remind myself never to compare myself to others. We are all on our path.

Beyond her sheer generosity, there is many more to note and notice of her. Joan Kelley Walker is a reality television star; an entertainment-veteran from her beginnings in the modeling world, to her career in voice work, radio, and as a television personality; a writer; entrepreneur; and a beloved mother. While being all that and more, she always looks terrific! Her dresses, jewelry, hair, and makeup are perfection.

Moreover, her advice to anyone who is looking to start out is, “ JUST START. Get started however and wherever you can.” To ask many questions, to take advice from people, and to not be afraid to move on when it is time. It is essential to building confidence, and from within it should start. She emphasized the importance to take care of all aspects of oneself–emotional, physical, mental and spiritual. Also talked about how media, social media, and blogging are all constructive ways to market. However, proper marketing comes first by being authentic and second by working with a team. ”Get involved in your

So how does she have it all put together? She has been in the business for over 25 years, and she knows when she says that

"We have a responsibility to give back to others and to be true to ourselves!" Joan Kelley Walker community, support others and you are sure to build a name for yourself.” For JKW, it always returns to passion and philanthropy. We can tell from her response to the question of how women can achieve balance–“I recently came across a quote that says “an empty lantern provides no light. Self-care is the fuel that allows your light to shine brightly.” This quote resonated with me because it’s true. You have to look out for yourself to best serve the people that you love and your community. We must always remember to take care of ourselves.” “Contentment. Knowing that you’ve done your best, and helped someone along the way,” is what defines success for JKW. Adding that it is also about staying true to oneself, and being happy and healthy. She has got them all; ergo, Joan Kelley Walker is without a doubt a woman of success. Through her myriad ways of giving back, JKW writes her own story of giving while we wait for a new chapter to unfold in her book of giving. Never miss out, and join the adventure of fashionable philanthropy with updates on her website Walker at the United Nations Commission on the Status of Women, 2018. Photo above provided courtesy of Joan Kelley Walker. Photos to the right by Lindsay Anne Delaney.

www.joankelleywalker.com and social media feeds on her Instagram @joankww

JKW Collection Available at Walmart

SUPERMODEL CANADA

Meet The Winners Kristy Neagle & Michael Morrone

SUPERMODEL is more than just strutting

little bit more about what gave them the edge over the rest [of

down a runway, looking distinctively gorgeous, and striking a pose. It takes

equally talented participants] to deserve the recognition.

confidence, determination, and motivation to succeed. Models need an avenue for their beauty, charisma, and talent to coalesce into

First of all, we want to congratulate you on winning Supermodel Canada 2018. How does it feel to be a winner?

an aesthetically vivacious channel of expression. SuperModel Canada Search (SMC) is just the platform that provides the Canadian modeling industry a channel to showcase and experience what it takes to be a supermodel at local, national and international level. FORWARD caught with the winning titles of SMC 2018 female Kristy Neagle, and SMC 2018 male Michael Morrone to learn a

Kristy Neagle [KN]: Words can not describe what it feels like ALL PHOTOS MANAGED BY TORONTO FASHION ACADEMY WITH PHOTOGRAPHER GEORGIA ESPORLAS, CO-CREATIVE DIRECTORS GEORGIA ESPORLAS AND BASIL WARIS, HAIR STYLIST RUBEN BRANCO REMENTIZO. PORTRAITS ABOVE - CO-CREATIVE DIRECTORS GEORGIA ESPORLAS AND BASIL WARIS. PORTRAIT OF NEAGLE CREDITS STYLIST EMILY HUGHES, ASSISTANT STYLIST FREDSON SANTOS SILVA, ACCESSORIES STYLIST RASHI BINDRA, MAKEUP ARTISTS ANGELA GRECHKO AND EVGENIA RUBAN. PORTRAIT OF MORRONE CREDITS ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHER ANDREA VILLEGAS, MAKEUP ARTIST AMRITA JHAS, RETOUCHER VANESSA KIRALY..

to be the winner of SuperModel Canada 2018. It was very unexpected, as there were so many amazing women competing. I feel very blessed to hold the title and can not wait to see what this year brings. Michael Morrone [MM]: Thank you! SMC was a fantastic experience. I am not the only winner, everybody involved– models, crew, sponsors– are all winners. We all came together for a short period and made memories that will last a lifetime. How did you get your start in the fashion industry? KN: I am a Canadian Jamaican from Barrie. My first industry experience was at the age of 15 in Barrie's Next Top Model. I took home the winning title and signed with Elmer Olsen Models. Unfortunately, after a year it wasn't the right fit as my hip size wasn't small enough for them, so I left. I took a break from the fashion industry to finish school. She also had a love for sports as she played both volleyball and basketball through high school. After high school, I got into serving and eventually the aviation industry. For the past four years, I have been working for Air Canada Rouge as a Flight Attendant. The changing landscape of the industry in recent years brought her back to fashion–I started with local shows. When doing a fashion show in Barrie for Pie Media Group last December 2017 I had the pleasure of meeting Roger Gingrich who introduced me to about Supermodel Canada. So here I am now. MM: Hi! I am 28 years old and raised in the small town of Welland, Ontario in a big Italian family. I am a musician (drummer) and have been playing the drums for most of my life (20) years. Music is a HUGE part of my life. I studied Sociology, Law & Security and Community & Justice Services. Also, was a student for Correctional Officer at the Niagara Detention Centre. I have also volunteered as Anger Management teacher for John Howard Society of Niagara, and Case Support Worker for Niagara Falls Probation & Parole. Currently, I am Acting & Modelling as well as writing/recording & touring with my Los Angeles based rock group “Automatik Eden,” fronted by the Emmy-award nominated David Crocco & his wife, Cela. Describe the personality that makes you who you are? KN: Dedicated and Fun Loving. Honest and caring person. A bit of a tomboy, adventurous and outgoing. MM: Good question! These are a few words that hold significant meaning in my life as well as the very staples of my personality– Positive, Grateful, Respectful, family-orientated, humble, thankful, funny & charismatic. Tell us about your experience with SMC.

KN: It was a great experience. It sure was nerve-racking to go in not knowing what to expect but also thrilling. It was a great learning experience–that three days which was action-packed with photo shoots and challenges which was all very well organized, and with expert direction guided me to help grow. I got to work with different personalities which allowed me to appreciate the beauty in uniqueness. All of the participates were beautiful and unique in their ways. The experience, knowledge, and expertise of the SMC team, and above all their eagerness to help us learn and grow makes me proud. I look forward to the next season when I get to relive the experience of working with the team again. MM: SMC was incredible. Everyone involved was amazing! The energy was incredible with positive vibes. Everyone was grateful to be there, and it didn’t feel like a competition– everyone was supportive of one another. I made a lot of lasting friendships in that short time, and I’m very thankful to call everybody I met, “A Friend.” Define the state of “Woman” in today’s day and age? KN: Women are defining their paths and are becoming more selfreliant. We are done with being labeled as second best. Now, women are crafting their [own] future. What do you think are some challenges woman face in fashion, Kristy? How to overcome it? KN: Low self-esteem from the need for validation, and comparing themselves to others, is the primary challenge. Surround yourself with positivity and embrace yourself, so you never have to question your worth.

PHOTO ON PAGES 96 - 97 CO-CREATIVE DIRECTORS GEORGIA ESPORLAS AND STYLIST BASIL WARIS. GOWN BY TOMÉ DRESS SALON, ASSISTANT STYLISTS EMILY HUGHES AND FREDSON SANTOS SILVA, ACCESSORIES STYLIST RASHI BINDRA, MAKEUP ARTISTS ANGELA GRECHKO AND EVGENIA RUBAN, RETOUCHER VANESSA KIRALY.

Do you think there is a stigma against straight men in fashion, Michael? MM: If there is, I am yet to see it. I am a straight man in fashion. I also have plenty of friends who are straight in the fashion world. Fashion is a community, and we all support each other, no matter your sexual orientation. Also, from your own experiences, how do you think the association of men with fashion has changed? MM: It has changed for the better. I think men’s fashion is becoming just as big as women’s fashion. People are excited to see new looks for men’s clothing. I think men’s fashion was boring and typical in the early stages, but now designers are making it new and exciting with unique looks.

Fashion is an enchanting industry, nevertheless with its glaring issues. What according to you are the most significant problems in fashion? Why? MM: The most significant problems with the fashion industry would be body type and the lack of diversity. Even though the industry is at a time which is slowly changing, there are still certain aspects that still muse over the old ways of doing things. How do you plan to use the platform provided by success in the SMC (the winning title) in the fashion world? What will it be, and why? KN: To promote a positive body image is my primary goal. I have a twin sister, and she has not had much opportunity in the

"The energy was incredible with positive vibes. Everyone was grateful to be there, and it didn’t feel like a competition; everyone was supportive of one another. I made a lot of lasting friendships in that short time." What kind of potential do you see men have in fashion? MM: As I elaborated earlier, Men’s fashion is on the rise. It is [definitely] growing and people are excited to see new looks for men. This is great for male models. I also think historically; fashion designers were typically female. Not anymore. There is equal opportunity for women and men in the fashion industry. Which is essential, in EVERY industry. I believe there should always be an equal opportunity for men and women and it is nice to see that happening over the last 20 years. Talk about some challenges you face as a male model? How to overcome them? MM: I don’t think there is any specific challenge that only men face in the industry. I believe any difficulty associated with modeling is indifferent to gender. It’s a VERY competitive industry and most times it is cut-throat. It calls for a tough individual with the ability to criticisms constructively. Like anything in life, the only way to overcome challenges is how you perceive the challenges. For me, you won’t get anywhere with a negative attitude. I like to embrace the problems that I find myself in, with a positive attitude, hard work, and perseverance.

CO-CREATIVE DIRECTORS GEORGIA ESPORLAS AND STYLIST BASIL WARIS. GOWN BY TOMÉ DRESS SALON, ASSISTANT STYLISTS EMILY HUGHES AND FREDSON SANTOS SILVA, ACCESSORIES STYLIST RASHI BINDRA, MAKEUP ARTISTS ANGELA GRECHKO AND EVGENIA RUBAN, RETOUCHER VANESSA KIRALY.

100

industry because of her height. It has always bothered me, yes she might not be as tall as me, but she is just as beautiful. As all women come in different shapes and sizes, fashion shouldn't be limited to one body type. MM: I like my story and how I got here. I like that it was almost all completely random. I like that it’s an improbable story. I like telling my story, in hopes that it encourages and motivates people. There is nothing in this life that you can’t attain. All you need to do is think of what you want to do, devise a plan, set your goals and DO IT! I think that’s how I will use this platform, encourage people and share positivity. To quote one of my favorite metal bands, Parkway Drive, “One Life. One shot". What is next for you? KN: I have just set my foot in the industry. So building my profile is where I am going to start. To learn from the experts, build a network, and gain industry experience will be my main focus. MM: The best part of doing what I have been doing is that I never know what’s around the corner, or what’s next. All I know is that I am going to continue what I have been doing–taking the road less traveled. I am also taking acting and improv courses, while I continue to model and still pursue my career as a musician. I am always looking for that next leap, whether it is Drumming, Acting or Modelling, I am always ready to go and always willing to challenge myself and create a new opportunity for myself.

101

Behind The Scenes Samantha Tajik & Jason Cameron

ORWARD went backstage to catch up with the founders of SMC to get a scoop on everything we need to know about

SuperModel Canada Search (SMC). Brief background on supermodel Canada. Why was it started? SMC: SuperModel Canada Search was started to provide the Canadian Modeling Industry a platform to showcase and experience what a supermodel in the international level have to endure– hard work, long hours, corporate accounts, deadlines, along with stress and anxiety of accomplishing so many goals in so little time. Super Model Canada Format: 1. Models provide online submissions 2. Castings held in different cities in Canada 3. Top 100 men & women selected to compete within their category. 4. Online voting will bring it down to the top 30 Women & top 30 Men 5. Various challenges and finale International Fashion Encounter (IFE) Canadian edition will provide us with top 5 contestants for women & Top 5 for men 6. Winner announced at the end of the IFE Canadian edition. Five Challenges 1. Photoshoot 2. Swimwear/ Fitness Extreme Runway 3. Beauty Makeover 4. Suprise Challenge 5. FINALE to walk in International Fashion Encounter Canadian About supermodel Canada as an organization. SMC: We are a team of fashion professionals from various backgrounds who have come together to fill the void of the industry– the lack of a platform with support and tools to provide the models with the experience to excel. We have recruited the

102

top industry professionals within the Canadian Market to help organize the event and create the atmosphere needed to motivate and mentor our models who come from across Canada. Goals and objective of the Supermodel Canada Search. SMC: We are in the midst of turning this national competition into a television Serial. This season the production team captured the footage needed to create the pilot for the following SMC season. The interest was brought forward to us from our first season of SMC, and this has helped us make that vision into a reality. How does SMC contribute to the fashion industry as a whole – at the community level? Also, at an individual level? SMC: We believe that by shining a light on both the industry and what a model endures to succeed we can give fashion industry the positive light it requires to be taken seriously on an international platform. By creating the partnerships and sponsorships with brands such as International Fashion Encounter and Trade Secrets & Glamour Secrets, we can provide a platform for models to be shown in the local and National Market as well as International Designer Markets. Fashionistas as a whole get to enjoy international designers at IFE Canadian Edition where they would not so otherwise. IFE is a platform that helps international designers penetrate the Canadian market. How does SMC compare to the usual pageant-style competition? How is it different from the traditional competition? SMC: We are not a pageant. It is a competition. It is unlike any other existing contests at the International Stage or even any other typical model searches as a whole. We provide the complete behind-the-scenes

footage and experience. SMC brings a whole new authentic experience; the reality of a model life beyond the glitz and glamour portrayed on the various media platform. The strict guidelines and timelines of SMC provide the model with the professionalism and time management skills they need to succeed. What makes an individual “The Supermodel Canada”? The important category that defines supermodel Canada. SMC: We have been pushing the bar on a daily basis to define “SuperModel.” The contestants are determined based on categories which go beyond the scope of a traditional challenge. They are appreciated at a personal level–for the person they are beyond the staged competition, be it their patience with others, or backstage with the stylists, or most importantly for the attributes they exhibit behind the camera. Everyone involved – from our drivers to stylists, to our hotel security including the volunteer– contribute to evaluating these potential winners. We are continually looking for the well-rounded individuals who will represent us from local through national to an international stage. The process (in brief) to win the title? SMC: Confidence, professionalism and determination. Talk about the success of SMC. SMC: Over the last two years, we have seen the success of not only our brand itself and our title winners but everyone involved. From makeup artists, stylist, and sponsors to volunteers have reached out to us with the news of how it has affected them positively. The title winners have been published and have walked the runway at numerous fashion weeks. The event has increased the visibility of the models in general and helped

STYLIST & DESIGNER FREDSON SANTOS SILVA, ASSISTANT STYLIST EMILY HUGHES, ACCESSORIES STYLIST RASHI BINDRA, ART DIRECTOR BASIL WARIS, ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHER ANDREA VILLEGAS, MAKEUP ARTISTS ANGELINA GRECHKO AND EVGENIA RUBA, RETOUCHER VANESSA KIRALY.

103

104

"We have recruited the top industry professionals within the Canadian Market to help organize the event and create the atmosphere needed to motivate and mentor our models." 105

them get discovered for more opportunities. In this short amount of time, SMC has found overwhelming support from the fashion community. The future of SMC going forward? SMC: Two big things. SMC is in the works of expanding the event to multiple countries. Secondly, we are also in production was SMC 18 was our pilot. Comment on SMC 2018? SMC: We are always amazed that there are such harmony and

Jason Cameron: “I honestly believe that we have created a platform for not only models but designers, both local and international. Besides, it is also an opportunity for businesses that cater to the local or national market, in which we can provide the right marketing and strategic approach to recognizing that the fashion industry as a whole is a vital part of the Canadian Economy, and should be given attention to by all platforms.” “The next edition of SuperModelCanada Search will be back in 2019 March 6 to 9th. The auditions start in October 2018. Be a part of the SMC family.”

"We are not a pageant. It is a competition. It is unlike any other existing contests at the International Stage or even any other typical model searches as a whole. We provide the complete behind-the-scenes footage and experience." friendship amongst the team and the models. Over just a span of a few days, we watched friendships form, strong mentorships and confidences built. Once again we walked away from the event with the joy of knowing lives were touched. All our models are winners, despite the title, winners for putting themselves out there, for going after their dreams and for making it to the finals! The title winners themselves are magnificent. We are delighted to work with them. Stunning and well rounded, with great motivation. Closing comment from the founders of SMC. Samantha Tajik: “We strive to create an event and opportunities that the Canadian fashion industry is lacking. I was fortunate enough to represent Canada on the international stage both at Miss Universe and as an international model. I implement what I have learned and my experiences into making this the best possible experience for everyone involved. Like anything, it is about having a strong team with a passion for excellence. Our vision is to change lives by creating paths and positive experiences. I truly believe that you should dream big, but also that those who succeed are the ones willing to put in the work and keep perusing their dreams.”

PREVIOUS PAGE - STYLIST & DESIGNER FREDSON SANTOS SILVA WITH ASSISTANT STYLIST DENADA SKERA, MAKEUP ARTIST AMRITA JHAS, RETOUCHER VANESSA KIRALY.

106

ABOVE - STYLIST DENADA SKERA WITH ASSISTANT STYLIST FREDSON SANTOS SILVA. MAKEUP ARTIST AMRITA JHAS, RETOUCHER VANESSA KIRALY.

"The contestants are determined based on categories which go beyond the scope of a traditional challenge. They are appreciated at a personal level."

STYLIST DENADA SKERA WITH ASSISTANT STYLIST FREDSON SANTOS SILVA, ART DIRECTOR BASIL WARIS, ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHER ANDREA VILLEGAS, MAKEUP ARTIST AMRITA JHAS, RETOUCHER VANESSA KIRALY.

107

Walking O

Wa t e r 108

Photographed by

Olga Hutsul

109

Wearing Designer

Zane Barlas

FORWARD takes a break from the stream of interviews while photographer Olga Hutsal - a household name in the Toronto fashion industry - brings us the front row experience of the WOW Fashion Show. Walking on Water (WOW) was presented by a team of young creatives who seeks to stimulate the industry to for innovation.

110

Designs by

Vanessa Rose Gallelli

111

Wearing

Pop Sauvage

The WOW Team

112

Founder and Executive Producer Carl Landry-Berthelot; Casting and Creative Director Feaven Abera; Social Media Team Lux Media Group; Production Assistants Sarah Taylor, Meghan DiCarlo, Flora Li, Samantha Bordignon, and Hannah VandenBygaart.

Beside The Scenes

Exclusive

113

Indie Expo Canada The Next Big Things in Beauty

ndie beauty is not to be ignored. The independent beauty brands are dominating the market, and we see a significant shift from the mainstream. As Girly Bits Cosmetics brought

back the annual Indie Expo Canada (IEC) for its second year (past this summer 2018), we could not be more thrilled to discover and shop some of the most innovative independently owned Canadian beauty brands. Indie Expo Canada is Canada's premier event for small businesses in the beauty industry. The event hosted some of the most innovative independently owned beauty brands, the freshest, most thoughtfully developed brands in beauty and cosmetics. Aniqa Rahman, a special event reporter to FORWARD, mingled with the brand owners and industry experts to bring us a special report on all things beauty. Interview with Pam Heil, owner of Girly Bits and the Captain who steers the ship “Indie Expo Canada.”

CREDIT TITLES

Aniqa Rahman [AR]: Could you introduce yourself? Pam Heil [PH]: I am the owner and operator of girly bits Cosmetics as well as Indie Expo Canada. AR: Tell us about Indie Expo Canada? PH: IEC is a platform to introduce independent cosmetic and beauty brands to the local people. A bridge between an upscale vending event and a traditional expo, it is a blend between vending market and business to business sort of networking situation. Mainly focused on indie nail polish, the event also features cosmetics, make-up, skincare, bath & body, and more. It brings together bloggers–nail bloggers and beauty bloggers, Youtube vloggers, brand owners, product designers, media and industry experts, connect under one roof.

114

AR: Tell us your story on founding the IEC? PH: I have been doing Girly Bits Cosmetics– handcrafting quality nail polish– since 2011. Over the years from my own experience either through attending events and networking or through global audience the brand has gathered, I saw Canada had nothing geared toward our industry which is independent nail polish. There are multiple brands right here in Toronto and no platform for them to exhibit their products to our target audience. IEC will fill that void by bringing the Indie beauty and cosmetics community together.

we are strictly independent and that all products are handmade. Also, probably because I'm both a vendor and the host of the Expo–I don't think any other expos, in Canada specifically, have someone who is a Vendor, a product designer, and someone that is also the host of the show. AR: Currently, where does the Indi beauty brands stand in the market?

AR: What sets you, and IEC apart from other

PH: We have a stable and loyal fanbase. Surely it is a smaller market compared to mainstream, but it is steady; it is solid, and it is growing exponentially. The bloggers are dedicating more time to Indie Beauty and Indie nail polish, so I think it is a sector to

Beauty Expos?

watch.

PH: The main thing that sets us apart is that

Photos by Steven McNeil.

AR: What kind of shift or progress have you noticed with the indie beauty brands in Toronto?

website management. It leaves them without time to dedicate on the actual business

PH: In general, not just in Toronto, the independent beauty and cosmetic are growing so quickly. When I initially started with girly bits, there was only a handful of us, and today there are close to thousand individual brands and products. The growth has created a network of support for businesses, entrepreneurs, product makers, and as well as for the customers. So the shift is more so in that everything is coming together and growing together.

aspect of the product, or website management or advertising and marketing knowledge, to grow them as an entrepreneur. What we [really] need is a way to bring that information to the beauty and cosmetic brand owners because I think everybody would benefit from tapping into that knowledge. IEC is one platform that helps address those questions.

"Canada had nothing geared toward our industry which is independent nail polish. There are multiple brands right here in Toronto and no platform for them to exhibit their products to our target audience." AR: What are some key elements you think is needed for Indie Brands to succeed? PH: That is a great question. A lot of independent beauty brands are what I like to call “backed into their business”– so, they have an idea, an idea that often starts off as a hobby. Someone who is good at it sometimes grows their brand faster than they can keep up with, and spend a lot of their time managing their brands–such as production, shipping and

AR: Why independent beauty is a relevant and essential category to discuss? PH: It is the “Connection.” Consumers want to know the story of their products. When you have a smaller independent brand, then the maker behind the brand is closer to the consumer and the story is naturally shared.

115

just started cooking a lot and thought it would be enjoyable to share our kitchen adventures with everyone. Then as I started getting into nail polish and beauty, in 2012, the Streets Ahead Style came into being. AR: Why Nail polish? What do you look for when you're purchasing your nail polish? CGH: I have always liked nail polish. I don't know when or how I fully got hooked on it but ever since I was a little kid I remember being interested in the beauty of nail varnish. So when I started falling down the rabbit hole into the world of Indie nail art, I saw there was more to nail than just colors. From creams and frost to shimmers and glitters, to holographic nails, the beauty of nail polish is limitless. Of course, the holographic nail is my life– I have a holographic top coat on my nail polish (which is a cream from Beyond the nail). AR: Who are your favorite Independent nail polish brands? CGH: There are many. Right now the biggest part of my collection is Girly Bits, the all Canadian brand that I have been

The appreciation for small batch processing and the regard for simplicity and authenticity when you see the face behind the brand makes independent beauty important. AR: What is next–for Girly Bits and Indie Expo Canada? PH: Continue to Grow and Expand. We already see exponential growth, but I plan to be able to continue to juggle both of them and give them equal time. I also look forward to possibly taking IEC to Vancouver in 2020 (although I must say it will be determined by how much time I can take off of Girly Bits). This interview has been edited and condensed. In an extended coverage of the event, Aniqa Rahman also caught up with Caitlin Gladney-Hatcher, the blogger behind Streets Ahead Style – a Canadian Beauty and nail polish blog. A nail polish fanatic, who has seen over three grand of nail polishes grace her nail in the past five years.

Interview with Caitlin Gladney-Hatcher, Streets Ahead Style AR: How did you first get into blogging? Caitlin Gladney-Hatcher [CH]: I got into blogging with kitchen girls. It is a food blog that I started in 2010 with my sister – we 116

"I am no stranger to online shopping, but when it comes to things like nail polish, it is just really actually to get to see it in person."

following for five years now. There are some brands in the US that I currently enjoy– Lollipop Posse Lacquer is a new brand whose nail polish is inspired by literature and music, and Blue Eyed Girl lacquer is another brand that I've Loved for a long time. AR: Who are your favorite bloggers and why? CGH: Manicure Manifesto, a nail blog curated by Michelle. She is always on point with her images, and her reviews very thorough. Also, Polished Hippy and Peachy Polish (–she is an original blogger) are my favorites too. AR: What are some of your biggest challenges and advantages of being a beauty blogger? CGH: Getting the content seen is probably one of the biggest challenges because there are so many blogs out there. However, the community of people you meet through blogging is terrific– the number of friends that I have met including one of my closest friends because of nail polish is beautiful. Canadian Beauty blog is a supportive community. AR: What impact do you think events like Indie Expo Canada will have on the beauty industry and businesses? CGH: It is a fantastic opportunity for online based brands. It gets their name out into the community and allows the potential customers to connect with the products in person. I am no stranger to online shopping, but when it comes to things like nail polish, it is just really amazing actually to get to see it in person; or even for beauty and skincare products, it is the experience of feeling them on your skin and test them out for yourself. I am hoping it will bring a lot more awareness on the existence of Indie brands( and many have grown into huge success ) AR: What advise you would give yourself [that you wish someone gave you] when you first started?

"I have always liked nail polish. I don't know when or how I fully got hooked on it but ever since I was a little kid I remember being interested in the beauty of nail varnish. So when I started falling down the rabbit hole into the world of Indie nail art, I saw there was more to nail than just colors. From creams and frost to shimmers and glitters, to holographic nails, the beauty of nail polish is limitless." CGH: Invest time and energy on social media and SEO (search engine

my blog. In the past year, I had had the opportunity to work with many Indie Brands

optimization). Even if it is a hobby blog, optimize your content so people can find you

as well as PR agencies which got me connected to the “beauty” that is the beauty

and also to build out that social networks while making sure it is always active and up

world (which I didn't necessarily intend to do when I started out). However, ultimately I

to date.

think it is still a hobby for me and the fact that always keeps me passionate about the art of

AR: What's next for Streets Ahead Style?

nails. When you start adding components that add pressure, then it takes the fun away

CGH: The blog started as a hobby. Up until last year, it was just for fun, and solely for

from your passion. Streets Ahead Style is still a creative outlet for me–to practice my

myself. Then Indie Expo Canada happened (last year) for which I was also one of the speakers. I learned many things, met many

photography skills, write, and make friends, and be part of a great Community Support. So that's where I plan to keep it.

inspiring people–the whole experience encouraged me to move forward and grow

This interview has been edited and condensed.

117

throughout IFWTO.

SAGE PAUL

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 53

visibility and self-representation of Indigenous designers in the industry to keep growing. I am inspired by the many different designers who came together to present their work at IFWTO. Our priority was to program sixty percent or more Indigenous women, to amplify Indigenous women’s voices and visibility. The designers ranged in age, which I think accentuated how vital our intergenerational relationships are. It is important to honor those who came before us and those who passed on stories and practices for us. INSIGHT ON THE REFERENCE TO TRADITIONAL TECHNIQUES, THEMES, AND MOTIFS BY CONTEMPORARY INDIGENOUS DESIGNERS. Contemporary Indigenous designers reference traditional techniques, themes, and motifs in their work through various expressions. For instance, Janelle Wawia's collection “We Are Still Here” showed at IFWTO this year, a collection of fur and printed cotton made reference to Cree syllabics translating to “We Are Still Here.” traps and tans her furs and leather. Artist Joi Arcand of Mad Aunty also uses syllabics and Indigenous languages in her jewelry, but predominantly Cree. She laser cuts plexi to create necklaces, earrings, and necklaces that spell phrases like “go away” or “woman” in Cree. Then there are beadworks. Skye Paul (my sister), makes hand-made beaded patches in modern sailor jerry style floral designs for jean jackets and vintage purses. Beading is a skill that was passed down passed down in a family for generations. At IFWTO, Warren Scott presented a collection of girlish paisley dresses which was inspired by photos from the 1950s, deeply rooted in family and community and pays homage to his aunties (who helped with the crochet accessories!). Family and society was a strong, naturally occurring theme 118

“Protest Wear” is modern expression and resistance for many Indigenous people who are or are not at the front lines of the picket line. Section 35 is a clothing collection of streetwear with strong political messaging like “Fuck Colonialism.” The statement is from the community and undeniable. Other brands making protest were the ENAGB youth at the Native Canadian Centre of Toronto with their “Relentless and Resilient” apparel and NTVS with slogans like “Sage Against the Machine.” I am also excited to see all the ribbon skirts! Ribbon skirts are worn for many occasions, in a ceremony, protest, and for the style. Various colors and applique can tell where someone is from, their clan, what their spirit name is and what their colors are, or sometimes for beauty. Incredible ribbon skirts are made all the time, some by mother/ daughter duo of Injunuity and Native American designer Delina White. ON LOOKING FORWARD. The Giving Life collection. A tailored women’s clothing for spring/summer 2019, it narrates the story about finding ceremony amongst healthcare malpractice. The designs which are brought to life in shades of crimson, mint, and white, while it is finished off with a touch of rawhide and bugle beads makes its journey from Festival de Mode et Design in Montreal in August, and then to the Otahpiaaki Fashion Week in Calgary in November. I just finished a princess dress, “Witigo,” and it is made of a kid’s bed sheet with racist images. It will make its appearance at the Asinabka Film & Media Arts Festival at Gallery 101 for a show called “Hot Culture: Indigenous fashion, materials, and craft." I look forward to going with IFWTO to London Fashion Week for the International Fashion Showcase in February, to support our nominee Curtis Oland. In 2020 we will bring the second installment of Indigenous Fashion Week Toronto. “The story builds preciousness into objects. Valued objects do not become disposable; they become an heirloom something you want to pass on to future generations. While the whole world is trying to create that

storytelling in their design, Indigenous fashion have a great story to tell. We look forward to celebrating that heritage, traditions, memories, and art, preserved through generations to keep histories alive through Indigenous Design."

ONE UNIQUE DRESS CONTINUED FROM PAGE 52

comes to a personal occasion such as the wedding–when the gown is expected to represent the wearer's entire personality. I begin with the client’s style and personality and finish it off with the touch of the current trends once the design emanates the client. I create a gown that fits like a glove, with the personalized design which is custom made to the client’s specific measurements. JJHC seeks to close the gap between real bodies and retail standards. It is often hard for most women to find clothes in stores that fit us how they are meant to be fit unless we have the idealistic tall and slim frame of the American woman. Although many stores are beginning to adapt and incorporate both petite, and plus-size collections, this issue is still present in the majority of retail, ready to wear clothing stores. JJHC seeks to close this gap by catering to all shapes and sizes of women by creating custom gowns that mold to their body.

BRAVE SOLES

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 82

for me. The reason that women in leadership can be so compelling is that of our innate ability to bring others along with us on our journey. When we deny this, it is as if we deny who we are. F: Do you feel disadvantaged in the industry as a fashion entrepreneur because of being a woman? CE: This is an interesting question for me because I feel like fashion is a hard industry to win within. It is not for the faint of heart. I do not think I feel so much disadvantaged as much as I believe in the relentless drive to succeed in spite of all that is stacked against my company and me.

However, success is not a zero sum game. We have to change our expectations, and the only person whom we can change those for is ourselves. Our resolve and values that build Brave Soles have inspired many women to reach further in their pursuits. That to me is how something perceived as a disadvantage can become a different narrative: the advantage of grit and resilience, and how we can all become a part of building a story. F: Define “Woman." CE: I do not feel like we can define “woman.” Not because of the physiological components, but because of the everexpanding evolution of what it means to be a woman. In some cases, it could have meant that you were relegated to decisions and a path that others chose for you. Now, I see “woman” as being defined as someone who chooses to grip power in one hand and love in the other; who is continually growing and learning how to wield the two, wherever they find themselves in life. F: How can women learn to build confidence and better market in the fashion industry? CE: You lean into confidence. It is a decision you make despite what you feel. I love to see women put themselves out there and try. What is the worst that can happen? While marketing yourself in the industry, you attract what you are. If you are confident that your next step is “figure-out-able” there is an attraction to that kind of thinking and posturing. Having something worth talking about is the best marketing there is, and that happens when we focus on how we can best serve others. F: How do personally you define success? CE: Success is knowing that the life you fall asleep and wake up inside is the one you want to live, and getting better every single day.

POP FUSION ART, P.61

Top - Titled 20/20 Blindness Middle -Titled "Cut It, Let It" Bottom - Custom Jean Jacket by Artcnik

119

120

For submission inquiries, visit our website at www.ForwardFashionToronto.com to download out media kit.