FORWARD Magazine is a quarterly publication. For information on our quarterly publishing cycle, please contact us via http://www.ForwardFashionToronto.com. 2017 Ethics Issue -- Published September 22, 2017. | Š 2017 FORWARD Fashion Toronto. All Rights Reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, disturbuted or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. EDITORIAL OFFICE FORWARD Magazine is published by FORWARD Fashion Toronto. contact@forwardfashiontoronto.com
Forward Fashion Toronto presents
Issue 1
The "yearbook" of the city's intercity highlights in the fashion & beauty industry. FORWARD is a startup business committed to taking on the frontline of positive change and reimagine the way fashion is consumed. Our goal is to encourage the community to rethink how we create, present and produce fashion. Our seasonal magazine will act as time capsules of Toronto’s local fashion and beauty industry with a focus on small businesses, hidden talents, and socio-economical ethics. Throughout the magazine, credits will be accompanied with the creditor's Instagram handle where applicable. If we use a Twitter handle instead, it will be following the letters TW. Please feel free to visit our website or social media platforms and tell us your opinion! Photographer & Director Connor Remus @connorremusphotography | Model Rachel Romu @rachelromu
Designer Sharleez Concept @sharleez_concept | Makeup Arist Thiso Makeup @thiso_makeup | Model Jess Keffer @jesskeffer | Venue @thevenetianbanquethall | Published in Elegant Wedding
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98
Rachel Romu "My Cane Feels Regal on the Runway"
FUR
Cruel Fashion Faux-Pas or a Wearable Protest Against Fast-Fashion?
110 The Truth About
Cotton
by Jason Spitoski of Buddah Boxers
10. Lettter from the Editor Ugyen Wangmo 12. Letters of the Community
View: The Art of Local Talents
16. Celebrating the Hues of the Rainbow 24. The Great Crossover: Masculinity versus Feminity is a State of Mind with Toronto Fashion Academy 30. Mont Pellier Thread X Thread Challenge 40. Essence of Whiteness with Toronto Fashion Academy 46. Thrifting: Overstated with Exile Vintage 54. Hello Nature with Toronto Fashion Academy 58. Ethnic Styles 59. Zapphir Couture 62. Escape to Folkland: The Vking Woman
Culture: Outside of Toronto
70. The Kingdom of Butan: Fashion in the Himalayas 76. Barong Tagalog: The Pride of the Philippines by Jirosa Campbell
Health & Beauty
77. Self Care & Wellness by Sarah Price 80. The Stain of "Perfection" by Sarah Callaghan
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Photographer & Art Director Conner Remus @connerremusphotography | Model Rachel Romu @rachelromu
Contents
82. The Answer to Beauty is Being Ethical to Yourself by Shoshana Chaim of Plant Trainers 84. 9 Summer Essentials to Pack for Your Summer Holiday by Ann-Marie Cato
Jewels Photographer Olga Hutsul | Credits continue on page 59
88. Studio Tiny Loft Jewellery
Academia
94. "Le Sommeil d'un Mannequin" An Interview with Laura Del Giacco on her Practice-Based Research 114. Portrait of a Shoe: an Interview with S... 115. The Importance of Shoes 120. High on Heels: Transitional Symbolism ...
Designers
124. Method to Madness: The Creation Mandate of Annie Thompson Dissected 132. Eco-Couture, a collection by Elina Ten 136. Solid Leather, curated by Jesse ... 140. Tumbler & Tipsy with Designer Michael Kuluva
Voice
156. Sustainability is the Future of Fashion: an Interview with Kelly Drennan, Founding Executive Director of Fashion Takes Action 160. Pantea
Social Report
23. Startup Fashion Week 166. Diva Girl Photographer Sonam Dema TW@SonamDema | Credits continue on page 70 Photographer & Model Sarah Price, page 77
Runway
167. The Top 4 Trends at FAT 172. 3 Designer Stand Outs at FAT 176. Fashion Against Cancer 184. Malia Indigo presents Canada's First Plus Size Runway Show 186. Fashion Takes Action presents Design Forward 196. IMFDF Modesty Glows on the Runway 198. You're Invited
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STARTUP FASHION WEEK 7-10 October 2017
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R u n w a y S h o w
10
E c o F a s h i o n F o r u m
Photographer Rai Allen @raiallen | Makeup Artist Faces By Nadeen @facesbynadeen | Hair Stylist Kim Du @kimdusalon | Marca College @marca_college | Designer UNI
To r o n t o
Photographer Rai Allen @raiallen | Makeup Artist Faces By Nadeen @facesbynadeen | Hair Stylist Kim Du @kimdusalon | Marca College @marca_college | Designer Archipelago
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T h e F u t u r e o f F a s h i o n : I n s i g h t s f r o m I n d u s t r y S p e a k e r s
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B u s i n e s s o f F a s h i o n C o n f e r e n c e
g e t y o u r t i c k e t t o d a y
s t a r t u p f a s h i o n w e e k . c o m
Letter from the Editor Ugyen Wangmo
The Future of Fashion is Now. Make Clear Choices! Exigently, Ethical Fashion is high on the agenda amongst consumers. Near the turn of the millennium, the sustainable fashion movement has been gathering steam, but the combination is used with confusion as it has many synonyms. Also called green fashion, eco-fashion, and kind fashion, in one breath they all guarantee "a fashion well considered and morally acceptable.” Under the umbrella of ethical fashion,
side of the industry, but we are also at
diversity and inclusivity remain at the
the most progressive time in fashion
heart of FORWARD. Breaking the
right now. At its best, fashion is
morals.
carefully policed boundaries of fashion
transcending. It is giving way to a new
that exclude those who are not thin, tall
wave of the system, contrary to how
Using this topical term as the guiding
and white, we celebrated the beauty in
fashion used to function. A growing
diversity.
world of responsible stakeholders - from
Nevertheless, FORWARD prefers to use the term ethical fashion because it is expressive of more extensive sets of
theme towards the journey of our first official edition, we seek out the beauty
and consumers - are affirming more
is more about fashion,” Pantea tells us.
inclusive and ethical practices. It is
And the glamour of the gender
easier than ever before to hold
spectrum and its fluidity is fashionably
practices accountable. Consumers are
simply to get lost in its frivolity.
embraced. But beyond size, race, and
starting to make room for an exciting
gender, there is another beauty barrier
return to the idea of craftsmanship that
Our conversations range from the
shunned by its very obviousness:
counteracts fast fashion. The changing
ableism.
dynamics of “definition of beauty' with
in moral fashion. Whether it is to do with diversity, inclusivity, sustainable fashion, fashion for charity or academic approach to fashion, and conversely,
wisdom of Jason Spitkoski of Buddha Boxers (“insanely breathable bamboo underwear”) on why cotton is bad, to dissecting the creation madness of
Fashion media talking about diversity Perhaps the best way to tell you about
and body positivity issues more than
the identity and self-worth of a
ever.
Annie Thompson's designs.
"disabled" (aka. differently-abled) body is through our un-apologetically
In the course of putting this together -
It was both a thrill and intimidation to
beautiful and inspiring cover girl. We
like every, great journey - we found
bring you the unedited voice of Rachel
something to celebrate in each corner
Romu to represent the barrier of
of discovery. We dedicate this
disability in fashion, and society by
installment to the progression of the
extension.
fashion industry, to show what we care
acquire leading voices Elizabeth Semmelhack (footwear expert to talk about the feminization of high heels) and Kelly Drenanna (Canadian environmental leader on sustainability in fashion system).
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designers, stylists, suppliers, retailers, “Plus size is not about size anymore; it
about and what we believe in, truly. I could go on and on about the dark
Letters to the Editor Trial Issue 0
Confidence
Diversity
Forward Fashion shows beauty in all aspects. It focuses on so much more than just fashion, which makes this magazine so unique. Being a part of the Naturella campaign showed me the unique beauty each individual has without all of the makeup and clothing. Being a part of this campaign and this magazine really built my confidence up, and I absolutely loved being a part of it! Mackenzie Whyte, Model @kenzie_whyte
I just wanted to say a big thank you to you, and your entire team; It was such an honor to be recognized by a magazine based in our city. I also wanted to say how excited I am to see a magazine with such an inclusive, and representative voice that truly shows how diverse, and colorful the Toronto fashion industry is. It's time for a change, and I'm glad you are pioneering it! - Sara Sohail, Blogger @theprepgal
Strength is no standard for women! Thank you for producing and putting out such a positive message! - Lauryn Mills, Model @laurynamills
Positivity
I think this is one beautiful campaign! The message is really strong, seeing women embrace who they are and seeing them selves as strong, independent, and confident girls! The photos are gorgeous, showing off the girls smiles and lovely features. Doesn't seem overly photoshopped like most magazine spreads. This shows realistic girls and basically lets others know here
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Hi! I came across the Naturella Campaign and wanted to say how nice it is to see what it looks like for a face to be un-retouched and natural. It is nice to see people happily and confidently owning thier natural looks and baring thier "flaws". Too often we see people in magazines with thier freckles airbrushed out, or wrinkles faded. It is refreshing to see real people showing that everyone is imperfect and that is what makes people stand out. Just by looking at the photos you can see the true essences of the people, you notice thier smiles, the glints in thier eyes, the moles on thier faces, the things that make them human. Thank you for creating a positive campaign! - Kelaiah Guiel, Actor @kelaiahguiel
Do you have something to say about Issue 1? Send us your letter to contact@forwardfashiontoronto.com
FORWARD
celebrates the hues of the rainbow
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Photographer Michele Taras @michele_taras_photography | Designers Sarah Splinter @sarahsplinter & Steven Lejambe @stevenlejambe | Jewellery by Musesa @monica_frangulea | Hair Stylisy Sasha Kay Green of Kay's Hair @_kays.hair | Makeup Artist Lisa Arsenault @pinchcosmetics | Stylist Mason Schlueter unique_stylings | Model Karina @itskarinaxox at @dulcedomodels | Retoucher Kate Field @katefield.retouching
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View
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pride
noun 1. a feeling or deep pleasure or satisfaction derived from one's own achievements, the achievements of those with whom one is closely associated, or from qualities or possessions that are widely admired
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FORWARD
would like to send a special Thank You to each person that fights for all Human Rights either as an advocate, an ally, or simply a community member, & to the team that created this beautiful editorial spread of pride.
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Social Report
SFW is the world's only fashion week supporting entrepreneurs who are at the beginning stages of business and the only Fashion Week in Canada to take place in more than one city! SFW programs educational events within a week that connect amazing people with Industry Professionals, ending the week with a runway show! All set to expand the success of Toronto to Montreal next year at Old Port’s most coveted (and fashionable) venue Bord’Elle, SFW Preview Party gave the community of Montreal a taste of what is to come on 29 July 2017. Designer Natalie Manchia | Ma keup Arti st Ke llySue Makeup | Hair Stylist Le Salon Sugar
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The Great
Crossover
Crossover Masculinity versus Feminity is a State of Mind
Wardrobe by Black Market Vintage Photography by Olga Hutsul
View
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Photographer Olga Hutsul @olgahutsulphotography | Directed by Toronto Fashion Academy @torontofashionacademy & Basil Waris @basilwaris & Ugyen Wangmo @ugyenw
@forwardfashiontoronto | Wardrobe by Black Market Vintage @blackmarketvintage | Stylist Fredson Santos Silva @fredsonnsilvaaguda & assistant Bianca Sharae @biana.sharae | Hair Stylist Kyla Duval @kyduval | Makeup Artist Evgeniya Rubanova @makeupbyevgeniya & Angelina Grechko @wmakeuptoronto | Models Zubeida @simply_zubeida & Cristina @kalopsia.okay
Photographer Olga Hutsul @olgahutsulphotography | Directed by Toronto Fashion Academy @torontofashionacademy & Basil Waris @basilwaris & Ugyen Wangmo @ugyenw @forwardfashiontoronto | Wardrobe by Black Market Vintage @blackmarketvintage | Stylist Fredson Santos Silva @fredsonnsilvaaguda & assistant Bianca Sharae @biana.sharae | Hair Stylist Kyla Duval @kyduval | Makeup Artist Evgeniya Rubanova @makeupbyevgeniya & Angelina Grechko @wmakeuptoronto | Models Zubeida @simply_zubeida & Cristina @kalopsia.okay
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View
Mont Pellier Jon Riosa
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Thread X Thread
Sustainable Fashion
Ali Haider
Vanessa Kiraly
Louise Campbell
Delve into the adventure of creative couture 'THREAD X THREAD Challenge' of Mont Pellier that tested the designers to construct pieces using exclusively the thread created from 100% recycled plastic bottles. THREAD X THREAD Challenge of Mont Pellier Mont Pellier - Global Platform, in collaboration with Aveda Canada's Rise For Water hair show saw 25 Designers, 11 Guest Artists, 25 Hairstylists, and more than 75 volunteers all come together on 29 May 2017 in Toronto, for one common goal: �to raise fund for clean water projects in Madagascar.� More than 35 thousand dollars was raised for the clean water project, and gave future to about 1500 people in Madagascar!
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Challenge to Change Lives
Mary Foret
Irina Bikeeva
Luis Padilla
Photos Courtesy of Mont Pellier Global Platform @mpellierfashion Photographer Saeho Kim @biascutphotography Full credits available on page 199
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Rebecca Rowe
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Peggy Sue
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Isabella & Maria Rubio 3 6
Kim Eqwuen
Tanushree Pande
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Kablawi 3 8
Courtney Reid
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View
E s s e n c e of
Whiteness
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Managed by Toronto Fashion Academy @torontofashionacademy | Models Britney Bentick @rainbowbrit & Nina Amerlise @nini_4u | Makeup Tristan Hoston @tristanhoston | Stylist Fredson Santos Silva @fredsonnsilvaaguda | Assistants Lauren Neuman @laurenneumanphotographer & Kimal Lloyd-Phillip @lloydphillipart | Art Director Basil Waris @basilwaris
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W he n t he wisp e r s o f t he win d
T he se wo me n ar e str on g,
ar e tr an sf or me d in to mu sic as
al tr u ist ic an d b r ave . I n f l u e n c e d
t he y to u c h the wate r s t hat
b y the ir tr adit io n al c l o thin g,
su r r ou n d the b ay o f my
the y stil l have a twist of
ho me l an d, the B ahia o f A l l
mode r n ity , car r y in g within
S ain ts, it r e f l e cts o n the l ocal
the mse l ve s the e sse n c e o f the ir
wo me n , the c har m o f b e in g
an ce str al o r ig in s whic h make
p ar t of a se n su al an d magical
the m vir t u ou s. W ithou t tr yin g
p l ac e r e mo te l y r e me mb e r e d f o r
to b e impe t u ou s, thr o u gh the ir
t he e x hil e r atin g joy o f b e in g
st yl e o f make u p t he ir f ac e s
free.
sho w a str on g in n e r f o r c e , t he ir e y e s of te n ou t l in e d b y me tal l ic to n e s, an d o n the ir l ip s al way s
A mp l e c l o thin g, f l o win g f ab r ics
the daz z l in g an d b ol d to n e s o f
an d c o l o r s r an gin g f r o m
r e d.
vib r an t to t he pu r e st c al min g white , al l r e f l e ct the f e r ve n t r e l ig io sity an d the
On the ir ar ms an d n e c ks the y
c he e r f u l n e ss de l ive r e d to t he
we ar n u me r ou s me tal b r ac e l e ts,
in hab itan t s of this pl ace
chain s, an d al l kin ds of b e ads
b e y o n d the se as. T he tail o r in g
an d pr e ciou s sto n e s t hat wil l
is sy me tr ic al l y cir c u l ar , o val ,
make the m st an d o u t, n ot ic e d
so me t ime s poin t e d, al way s
an d wo r ship e d at an y time of
t r y in g t o te ase the on l oo ke r
the day b y the p u b l ic e y e . T he y
wit h that swe e t game of
r e ve r ve the ir mu sic , an d the y
c o ve r in g an d showin g so me
u se t he ir b o dy p r op s t o p r o du c e
skin he r e or the r e . T he shape s
with the ir ar ms c e r t ain
o f the c l o thin g r e pr e se n t t he
move me n t s that c r e ate a kin d
var iatio n s of the se a, l ike the
of an c e st r al r hy thm, a b e at t hat
hig h tide an d t he l o w tide ,
acc o mpan ie s the m thr o u ghou t
g r o win g an d ge ttin g smal l e r
the ir l ive s as a c o n stan t
de p e n din g on t he o cc asio n ,
r e min de r o f the ir A f r ic an
so me t ime s a q u ie t t ime , b u t
or igin s.
n e ve r de ad an d apat he tic.
by Fredson Santos Silva @fredsonnsilvaaguda
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Thrifting
View
OverStateD
W a r d r o b e b y E x i l e V i n t a g e P h o t o g r a p h y b y O l g a H u t s u l
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Photographer Olga Hutsul @olgahutsulphotography | Wardrobe by Exile Vintage @exile.inc | Stylist Chanda Ceecee Chilanga | Models Li Vondett @li_vondett & Mark Henderson @markhendersonactormodel & Nathan Hardy @nmodelh
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Photographer Olga Hutsul @olgahutsulphotography | Wardrobe by Exile Vintage @exile.inc | Stylist Chanda Ceecee Chilanga | Models Li Vondett @li_vondett & Mark Henderson @markhendersonactormodel & Nathan Hardy @nmodelh
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View
Hello, Nature
Fashion
Co
i x -E
w g n i t s
r i a l F ith
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Photographer Liam Racine @liamracine | Directed by Basil Waris @basilwaris of Toronto Fashion Academy @torontofashionacademy | Makeup Artist Angela Boller @abella.u | First Dress by Missy Smith of The Shop Boutique & Beauty Bar @theshop_beautybar & Black Two-Piece by Black Market Vintage @blackmarketvintage & Off White Ensemble by Tyrell Harriot @t_y_rell | Model Britney Bentick @rainbowbrit
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View
Ethnic Styles
Ethnic style has been one of the most powerful influences in fashion since ancient times, and its fantasy element high. Historically, foreign origins were significant of luxury, with its designs and production methods imitated in western consumption. Ethnic fashion is beyond the realms of fashion; it a traditional wear to represent culture and identity. Deemed static, ethnic styles are believed to merely be the hem of fashion style that is primarily embedded in western identities. Fashion theory draws a distinct line between the two, considering western style as modern, offering freedom of expression, and “not-static.� Whether emanating from western urban centers or otherwise ethnic style, the essence of fashion is clothing. As cultural artifacts embedded in current and historical sets of meanings, clothing carries a profound meaning which is shaped by social and economic forces and is reflective of current social and cultural activities. With the democratization of fashion, we now have what appears to be an extended plateau of a 'melting pot' cosmopolitan mix that celebrates diversity. We seek to unify aesthetic styles, print, color, and traditions evocative of the past and far away lands, from the mountains of Kingdom of Bhutan to the Philippines to West Africa and back into the past of Vikings.
Zapphir Couture
Clothing by Zapphir Couture @zapphir_online | Accessories by Paanashe Organics @panaasheorganics | Photographer Olga Hutsul @olgahutsulphotography | Model Zara. R. @chicaloca6 | Stylist Fredsonn Silva Aguda @fredsonnsilvaaguda | Beauty Veta Leisterovich @vetaleisterovich
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Zapphir Couture designs are trendy
Okonofua and Joy Bassey Mbom
African themed clothing for women
based in Cross River Nigeria.
inspired by the bold African prints and beautiful and affordable masterpieces.
Analyzing the global fashion trends and incorporating the wax print fabrics
Founder and CEO Kem Azurunwa of
with deep local roots, this successful
Toronto believes that using these
team creates a memorable clothing
beautifully crafted wax prints as the
line that is starting to be a recognized
core in her designs is one way to
in West Africa and gaining momentum
promote her brand.
here in Canada.
She brings this vision to life with the help of designers Anthonia
View
Escape to
Folkland The Viking Women
Pause to feel the magic of living in harmony with nature-as Photographer Pagalova Evgenia takes her [clients] to the wondrous folkloric tales of the Vikings.
P h o to g rap h e r Po g a lo v a E v g e n i a @ p o g a lo v a .e v g e n i a | M a ke U p A r t i s t Yu l i a M i ro n h i ko v a @ y u l i am i ro n h i ko v a | D e c o ra to r D i an a D u n a e v a @ d u n a e v a
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Culture
The Kingdom of
Bhutan Fashion in the Himalayas
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A Buddhist kingdom on the Himalayas’ eastern edge, Bhutan is known for its monasteries, fortresses (or dzongs) and dramatic landscapes that range from subtropical plains to steep
hand weaved on a traditional back strap loom, is the ideal metaphor for the power of handcrafted goods that are both magnificent and relevant in the face of mass production and the fast-fashion
mountains and valleys, Wikipedia tells us.
industry.
As the home to our Co-Founder and Editor-in-
Hand weaving textile culture permeates all aspects
Chief Ugyen Wangmo, it is something so much more intricate. When Ugyen left her family to start her own path in Canada, she never knew that she would return to the same industry which her family
of Bhutanese life. It is a substantial form of income generation in Bhutan, seen as an essential economic asset imperative for the country’s economic growth.
built on. Fashion in Bhutan is overlooked but glorious and full of history. So when visiting her family and homeland for the first time in five years, Ugyen met up with talents to capture the fabric and patterns of the gorgeous and unique Kingdom of Bhutan. Bhutan is a country with a national dress code and is often called the last surviving cloth-based culture in the world. The country's sophisticated textile,
Many women are still engaged in weaving activities for a living as they continue to strive for excellence in weaving traditional textiles. Bhutanese weaving is considered to be the most sophisticated and time-consuming in the world. It is what the Bhutanese call "Hingtham," a ritual of love and tenacity that comes from the heart. Photographer Sonam Dema TW@SonamDema | Design Bhutan Traditional Textile @NgawangPelmo | Stylist Ngawang Pelmo @ngawang_pelmo | Model Ugyen Wangmo @ugyenw | Location Thimphu, Bhutan
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Culture
Barong Tagalog The pride of the Philippines
I
by Jirosa Campbell
n the height of wedding season - with blushing brides in dresses as white as fresh snow, pure and perfect, while grooms are all suited up and ready to walk the aisle - it reminds me of the Barong Tagalog.
Simply called “Barong,” this formal embroidered wear is one of finest fashion pieces of the Philippines.
years for Filipinos to wear the tuxedo during a wedding, it is heartening to see grooms who
putting their spin on this classic piece.
Commonly worn by Politicians and prominent officials, it has been adapted to be worn by grooms and groomsmen today.
continue to wear the Barong. Especially when it is a Balikbayan (someone who lives overseas going back home for short visit), it is amazing!
Not many know what a Barong Tagalog is, and in the face of Suits and Tuxedo gradually taking over grooms wear, it is crucial to refocus on preserving this staple in the Filipino culture and wardrobe. It is a symbolic garment that defines the nation through its creation in the art of unique embroidery and weaving. Besides the occasional showcase of the Barong during fashion events in Manila, I am also looking forward to the day when the world discovers its unrequited beauty.
Delicately handmade by natives, the Barong is made from Piña fabric which is hand-loomed from pineapple leaf fibers. Over the years, textile and apparel industries found a way to mass-produce the Barong while designers' modern take on the Barong turned this traditionally worn piece into a “modern, fashion-forward garment.” Traditionally, grooms would wear the Barong on their wedding day. Despite the shifting trend in recent
I would like to take a moment to acquaint the world of fashion to the Barong. Exuberant with striking style and perpetuity, it is a fashionforward garment that can go from simplistic to a more modern design with contemporary cuts and unique details. There are a lot of Filipino designers who have re-invented the Barong, like Albert Andrada and Cary Santiago, leading the game by
Barong is only one of the many unique fashion pieces that the Philippines has to offer to the world.
Jirosa Campbell Born and raised in the Philippines, I am a 32 years old mother of two beautiful girls. I am also a member of Canadian Beauty Blogger, a Youtube content creator, and a self-taught (but soon to be certified) makeup artist. As a fashion lover, I have an undying passion for creativity and, in turn, am an influencer and product reviewer. Looking back in my teenage years, I wore unique fashion pieces, not because I don’t have a sense of good fashion, but because I settled for what I could afford. I learned how to be innovative and created styles out of existing clothing pieces. I rocked my brother’s old t-shirt and my sister’s oversized jeans. Fashion is not always about what’s trending and what’s high end, it's about how you carry a piece and how you carry yourself. 7 6
Health & Beauty
Self Care
&
Green Beauty
Article and Photos by Sarah Price
Self-care is often mistaken for a luxury that only few can enjoy. But practicing self-care is essential for every one of us. Our self care rituals can go beyond the functional basics of wellness to give us the ability to be our best selves. By taking a moment to pause, time to reflect, and a deep breath to propel us forward, we can truly become the best version of ourselves. Creating Your Self Care Practice Developing self-care rituals can take some trial and error. Before you begin, take some time to write down all of the activities that bring you joy. Don't forget to think about your ideal morning and evening routines, as they can become an important part of your self-care practice. Making this list and thinking about your days can become an act of self-care in itself because you're taking the time to tune into your body and listen to its needs. If you need some ideas, my daily self-care practice includes time for reading, a simple but indulging skincare routine, and making time to spend with my partner. Your self-care practice can be anything that brings you happiness. Once you have written everything down, think about ways to incorporate these activities into your daily routines. Could you get up a little earlier to enjoy your cup of coffee? Could you make space for a midday walk to clear your mind? Getting creative with your routines can give you the opportunity to find new ways to check in with yourself, lower stress levels and practice self-care. Developing a self-care practice should be enjoyable. If your practice isn't lighting your fire, take the time to reconsider what you need. You can even experiment with removing things from your list to give yourself room to breathe. Green Beauty as Part of Your Self Care Practice I believe green beauty and self-care are deeply intertwined. Green beauty is about finding ways to take care of ourselves and to enhance our natural beauty without using ingredients or practices that harm ourselves or the planet. That, right there, is a form of self-care. The act of incorporating green beauty products can be one of your most important self-care rituals. Looking for a new skincare routine can become a small passion project; even applying makeup can take your mind off the worries of your day. Developing a self-care ritual, especially one that is
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connected to your green beauty routines, can be one of the simplest ways to practice daily self-care. Think about your beauty routines and how they make you feel. Does your skincare routine make you feel calm and centered? Does applying makeup take your mind off of the day ahead? Does a hot bath make you feel grounded? Then those are all moments of self-care that you already practice. Green beauty takes that a step further by reminding us that we are worth treatments that are made from natural, healthy ingredients, that animals shouldn't be harmed so we can enjoy our skincare regime, and that the planet is not worth sacrificing for our lipstick. One of my favourite evening self-care rituals is rooted in self-care and green beauty. I like to start by taking the time to stretch before bed. I follow this with a thorough dry brushing and some self-massage. Dry brushing is one of the simplest ways to reset how you feel. All you need is a brush made of natural fibers. Then simply brush your skin in long, smooth motions towards your heart. I start at my feet and work up to my arms. This improves circulation, which is amazing for your internal organs and promotes healthy, glowing skin. Dry brushing provides a gentle daily exfoliation, making it the perfect time for a self-massage. Self-massage is an ayurvedic practice that reduces fatigue, soreness, and inflammation, without the cost of a traditional spa treatment. Using organic coconut oil, I simply massage my body, starting with my feet and moving upwards. The stretching gets my body moving, the dry brushing improves circulation and exfoliation, and the self-massage reduces inflammation and gives me a chance to moisturize. A self-care practice can make all of the difference in your everyday routines. Self-care can provide you with the ability to be your best self and to live your best life. I know my self-care practice has given me the tools to avoid burnout and cope with stressful times, and I hope they do the same for you
Sarah Price sarahprice.com @sarahpriceca A green beauty writer and photographer, Sarah writes about natural beauty, self care tips, and living a zero waste lifestyle.
Favourite Product List
1. Earl Green Body Balm by Urban Alchemist 2. The Dry/Sensitive Skin Care Line (3 products) by Sattva Pure 3. Frankincense Argan Oil by Leaves of Trees 4. Wildwoods Charcoal Soap by Woodlot 5. Bath Salts by Sattva Pure 7 9
Beauty & Health
The Stain of "Perfection" A visual culture distorting the socially constructed ways of seeing and making sense of society by Sarah Callaghan
Myself and you, and every woman we know ride the fine line between a healthy dose of confidence and a crippling self-doubt. On the one hand, I know I am worthy, powerful and capable. My mind is in harmony with my body - content, comfortable and at ease in my skin. I am brimming with confidence. Then those bad hair days creep in to rob me of my self-esteem. Everything starting from the tip of my hair and all the way through to the tip of my toes feels “not so great.” However, imperfection is not the problem. In fact, it is the artistry of human frailty that makes us beautiful. It makes us all human! The fault lies in the idea of perfection; the false perfection manipulated to seem real. A "perfect" representation of women in the media is a false
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A l t e r e d depiction of the actual person behind the image, and it meets my eyes every day. That is where the problem is. My imperfect life juxtaposed with the photoshopped and curated images! This constant disconnect of what we see versus our own realities makes us feel inadequate like we are not quite making the mark. With a sea of infallible faces in between those pages, modern media creates space only for a particular category of person. They display the “ideal” image of the woman, but not the organic, unprocessed existence of what it is to be a woman. The platform of Instagram, for example, as an entire giant concept is purely visual. How is it consequential? They are nothing more than pictures! I cannot deny the delight of seeing a cute puppy, or a daily dose of
Photographer Nathan Mann @nathanmannphotography | Model Reba Harrison @reba.harrison | Alterations by Christina Davis, Magic in Colours @magicincolours
R e a l
images with empowering quotes. However, the concern lays in the plethora of filtered images that we see, and in particular, the seemingly perfect lives of the other women. Heavily edited, often these photos are vehicles for advertising a product or brand, of which advertisements have become increasingly present in our 'feed.' Using social media as a marketing tool is becoming more common and fruitful, but there is a human need for balance. The fashion blogger with a gazillion followers posts a new 'state-of-the-art' image each day, and it can be quite lovely to feed upon for us. We do not see the effort that goes into cultivating each photographic post and the brand identity as a whole. Through a lifestyle or product, the images we see on social media are either directly or indirectly trying to sell us something. The visual landscapes presented constructs a reality to entice us with the desire to acquire whatever is being sold or promoted.
representative of us. Awaiting a revolution or a magic wand that completely cleans the society of this century-long crippling phenomenon, it would be difficult to eradicate entirely all the images we are force fed in our capitalist society. The good news is that we - as the citizens of society - have the choice and power to drive toward that revolution one woman at a time. And we will not be the first women to fight this battle. We should be honest with ourselves - and with each other - about who we are and what we, as women, are feeling and living. By sharing these experiences, we could make “realness” something to flaunt about and aspire to remain. I am not saying that our lives need to be an open book to the public, but if you are going to share a page from your book, how about an authentic (and un-photoshopped) one once in a while? The solution is as simple as that!
The blatant false portrayal of women- on television, at the bus stop, on social media platforms - makes it impossible for us to tell what is real and what is not, whether it is a lifestyle, product, or Kim Kardashian’s butt. Now forget social media. Walk outside in the city, and you will still be barraged with life-sized posters trying to sell you your own little “perfection.” Every waking step is like flipping through a catalog. The conversation about unrealistic portrayals of women is not new nor newaged. The issue of retouching models is a continuous discussion and has been since their paintings of early history. But it tells us how far down the rabbit hole we have gone when a highly idealized, airbrushed image is still portrayed as a
Sarah Callaghan beautyinthesix.com @beautyinthesixblogger Born and raised in Toronto, Sarah is a writer and blogger. Most of her writing centers on mental health or beauty related issues. She also works as an aesthetician with her sole focus being on health and the care of skin. Sarah’s educational background includes a B.A. in English and a diploma in Medical Aesthetics. (She loves Vonnegut and sunscreen with the same ferocity.)
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Health & Beauty The Answer to Beauty
is being
e t h ic a l
to yourself
“Helping you improve your quality of life through nutrition and fitness." - Plant Trainers
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hoshana Chaim is a Family Health and Wellness Coach working one-on-one with busy parents and families to alleviate the stress in life caused by poor diet, unhealthy lifestyle, and chronic illness. With an emphasis on plant-based nutrition and individualized action steps, Shoshana heals people from the inside out, so that they can finally stop surviving and start thriving again. Shoshana is featured as the co-host of the Plant Trainers Podcast, as well as in publications including VegWorld Magazine, Thrive Global, and makes appearances on Rogers Television. She also gives local and international talks and lectures to schools, health groups and at conferences.
She lives in Toronto with her husband, two children and rescued cat, Obi.
When I was in high school, I realized my body was not what I saw in magazines. It was not similar to the girls in the school fashion
suit, and I wanted my clothes to fall nicely over my body. I didn't have a huge weight problem, but I wanted more. I wanted to show off my belly.
Is Skinny Enough?
show. I ate what I wanted. That included a good mix of salads,
I wanted to fit in. I wanted people to look at me and think I was pretty.
Skinny is everywhere. In schools, in
chicken, fish and fried everything.
So out went the fried foods - and
the workforce, in fashion, and in the advertisement. Have you heard this before? Of course.
And that worked…until it didn’t.
the high carbs - and the...well, pretty much everything that I didn't need to get through the day. I guess
I wanted to look better in a bathing
you could call it my first diet. The “bare necessity” diet. I lost weight. I wore my crop tops. I went on a few dates (if that is what you call
their beauty goals, ethics brings it all together. Being ethical towards yourself is key to surviving this world. Today, I choose foods that
hanging out when you’re 16). But I was an athlete, and what I was eating was not sustaining my energy or my lifestyle.
are nutrient dense, filled with vitamins and minerals that keep my skin looking vibrant, hair looking healthy and make my energy levels
I was just not healthy.
go through the roof. The answer is not to thrive on very little; the answer is to choose the best of the
After juggling this around for about two years, I found Martial Arts. Kung Fu kicked my butt, and I began to kick ass too. I ate well. I
best and prosper on plenty. What I have learned over the years is that looking good can go hand in hand with feeling good. We need to be
had lots of salads, beans, and my food was not fried. I started to feel something inside me I did not recognize. Health. It’s like that song, “You don't know what you got till it’s gone” only it was ‘you don’t know what is missing until you get it.' Health had been missing for so long. I was working out...under my terms. I loved what I was doing. I was eating well. I had good relationships with those around me, and I had plans for the future. Oh, and I loved my six pack.
kind to our bodies; they are the only ones we have. Think of it this way: Your Miu Miu’s may be what you use for walking around, but it’s your body that makes them do the walking. So think about a few ways you can care for your body a bit more like your beloved slingbacks. Because we all know if you have a pair, you're treating them like royalty. So how can we do this? Start by making sure you’re getting berries in your diet every day. Not
So today, as a health and wellness coach, I try to get others to feel the presence of health. Despite their weight goals, strength goals, or
only will this help your acne, but your memory will thank you. Berries have been proven to help with longterm memory and fight against brain diseases like Alzheimer's. Grandma’s fate does not have to be yours.
reach for the turmeric instead of the Ibuprofen! And finally, seaweed. Yes, seaweed. I bet you thought I would say kale! Seaweed is high in iron & iodine as well as being essential for hormone and body function. You can enjoy nori, dulse or even seaweed salad. If you're not into sushi, just cut up some nori on your salad, two sheets a week should suffice. Putting our focus on health to achieve our goals is a sure way to ensure we feel our best every day. Using nutrition to gain strength, muscle and optimal body form is a fundamental component for staying in the beauty game and acing it. [S.C]
Is turmeric a part of your vocabulary? It should be. Turmeric is a root with a very deep orange color. It’s got anti-inflammatory properties that can help with swollenness and pain from injury or disease. So when I turn my ankle, I
Photographer Olga Hutsul @olgahutsulphotography
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Beauty & Health
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Beauty Essentials to pack for your summer holiday Ann-Marie Cato facetocurls.com @facetocurls
Ann-Marie is a business owner and beauty blogger of Face to Curls who has a love for all things beauty, green tea, cupcakes and scented candles. Based in Toronto, Cato is a happy wife and a proud mother of eight, and five-year-old daughters.
Summer is the favourite holiday season bringing us to spending time in the sun, lounging on the beach, and exploring exotic countries. It also means trying to pack two weeks worth of belongings into one bag. Holiday packing is never fun, but you can avoid the luggage re-shuffle at the check in desk by packing sensibly. With all the beauty product inspiration on allsalonprices.com, it can be easy to overpack. But you need slightly different (and less!) beauty products when you are going abroad, so here are the essentials.
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Sun Cream
If you only pick one thing to pack, it has to be sun cream! Whether you’re spending the day on the beach, or sight-seeing ancient buildings, you must wear sun cream. Opt for a high SPF to protect your sensitive skin from the damaging rays of the sun (see on the blog: 6 Foods That Can Help Save Your Skin From Sun Damage). Try a lighter cream specifically for the skin on your face as it will feel less greasy and is less likely to bring you out in spots.
Ann-Marie's Pick "Provides excellent sun pr ection!" available at Bioderma
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Editor's Pick "This natural sun cream keeps mosquitos at bay, moisturizes dry skin, smells amazing, and is the equivelant to SPF 45." available online at dckinandhair.com
Moisturizer
Sun and salt can have a dramatic effect on your skin. It is important to moisturize while on holiday to keep your skin hydrated and healthy. Try a cooling after-sun cream for combatting any sunburn or
sore bits. Be sure to apply night cream on your face too as air-conditioning can be very damaging.
Ann-Marie's Pick "This is so hydrating!" available at Bioderma
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Editor's Pick "Aloe so hes the skin while SPF pr ects it!" available at The Body Shop
Facial Cleanser
After a day outside in the sun, your face is going to be pretty grimy. Pack a good facial cleanser to wash all the sweat and toxins off at the end of the day. Sun cream and other products can build up and clog your pores, so keeping your face fresh in a vital step to having clear summer skin.
Ann-Marie's Pick "Cleans and exfoliates to feel amazing!" available at Bioderma
Editor's Pick "The classic summer must-have for oily and acne-prone skin." available at The Body Shop
Deodorant
This is an obvious one. If you are holidaying in a hot country (or anywhere, really), you are going to get sweaty and stinky. Make sure you are ready for it with an odor-neutralizing deodorant.
Ann-Marie's Pick "It just works and I love it for the lingering delication clean and slightly powery scent." available at Bioderma
Editor's Pick "For us e ra-stinky people, this is heavy duty and natural at the same time!" available at LoveFresh
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Toothbrush and Toothpaste
A lot of hotels will provide basic soap and shampoo, but you will need to take your toothpaste and brush. If you’re traveling on a long haul flight, it can be a good idea to bring travel set on the plane. Brushing your teeth will freshen you up after 7 hours of flying!
Ann-Marie's Pick "The only natural to hpaste I use." available at Bioderma
Editor's Pick "You can never go wrong trusting in Green Beaver!" available at Greater Good Natural Supplies
Straightener or Curler
The hotel may provide a semi-decent hair dryer, but rarely other styling devices. If it is sweltering and humid, you may be better to opt for up-dos and save the time of styling.
Editor's Pick 'Pretty Young Thing' available online at pythair.com
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"I am too lazy to spend an hour styling my hair, but n only does the PYT straightener work fast to b h straighten and curl, it's better for your hair, has a lifetime warranty and comes with amazing hair products!"
Sea Salt Spray
When your skin starts to tan, and your hair color lightens from the sun, sea salt spray is the perfect product to give you those beachy, tousled curls. Spray a bit on damp hair and scrunch your hair to give it texture and body.
"This contains the ďŹ nest all-natural ingrediants!" Ann-Marie's Pick available at Bioderma 8 6
Tinted Moisuturizer
Heavy, full coverage foundation may be too much on a warm holiday. But a tinted moisturizer or BB cream is light enough to be comfortable, but still offering a base for your makeup. Some have an SPF rating as well but make sure you still use sun cream as well just to be sure.
Ann-Marie's Pick
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"Hands down the best tinted moisturizer. It moisturizes, hydrates, and pr ects."
available at Bioderma
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Waterproof Mascara
Some people go without makeup on the beach. But if you prefer to keep your daily routine, try waterproof mascara and eyeliner to avoid panda eyes after a splash in the sea!
Ann-Marie's Pick "Such an amazing drugstore ďŹ nd!" available at Bioderma
Editor's Pick "Cruelty free, nonclumping, and may truly be better than sex!" available at Sephora
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Jewels
Photographer Olga Hutsul @olgahutsulphotography
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Studio Tiny Loft Jewellery
S
hiny, flashy, eye-catching sparkle... the adjectives we associate with jewellery make them sure to catch our eye. But when jewellery goes beyond its bling, it can become an ART coaxing an entirely new light of appreciation. Studio Tiny Loft Jewellery is an epitome of cutting edge jewellery that pushes the discipline beyond the sheen. It is the no-bling statement piece portraying Artist Tetyana Lypka's interpretation of classic Bohemian jewellery in a new and modern way. Ethnic diversity, artistic
whimsy with recognizable contemporary style and a confident, edgy look, are characteristic of the
pieces with a focus on quality and durability,” Lypka tells FORWARD.
plastic on human health and the environment, I use mostly natural materials [like] stones, shells, wood,
Studio Tiny Loft collection.
In a world of mass production, cost saving and corner cutting, Studio Tiny Loft Jewellery stand out by
corals, and horn. Natural horn is my favorite; it is lightweight, warm, nontoxic and a bio-degradable
providing outstanding merit, elegance, and unique features.
material.
Originally from Eastern Europe, designer Tetyana Lypka is also a book editor and journalist by education and sales person and boutique manager by profession. Studio Tiny Loft Jewellery was created in 2014, inspired by the bustle of the cosmopolitan of urban Toronto after years of globetrotting and with more than a decade of wisdom in fashion. The brand focuses on providing pieces for "sophisticated, grown-up girls," the market of the fabulously 35-and-over, who often are ignored as a primary fashionable consumer. “They are looking for bolder, edgier
“I try my hand in different styles, work with various materials. My jewelry can be minimalist or whimsical, boho or geometric. [Perhaps] an entirely new definition of design! Style diversity gives me the flexibility to measure up to my loyal customers. They are never bored by my pieces and always come back to discover something new in the collection,” Lypka tells FORWARD, proudly. MATERIALS
"I use domestic animal horns which are the by-product of the food industry or agriculture. [Sometimes I use] naturally shed deer antlers. The cost of the raw horn is inexpensive which ensures that animals are not harmed. It is gratifying that instead of being wasted or burned, they find a new life in the form of ornament. "[Beyond horn,] I personally sand, drill, and polish raw, natural Baltic amber to give each stone a unique shape and color," Lypka.
"Knowing the harmful effect of
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Jewellery For sophisticated, grown-up girls
WHERE TO FIND The One-of-a-Kind Online Store www.oneofakindonlineshop.com/studio-tiny-loft-jewelry Upcoming Art Shows in Eastern Ontario September 23 & 24 at Queen West Art Crawl, Toronto October 20 & 21 at The Wearable Art Show in Oakville
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Academia
"Le Sommeil d’un mannequin" Practice-based research by Laura Del Giacco
Mannequins (also called as dummies) play a significant role in the fashion industry. The introduction of mannequins as a
Laura Del Giacco [LG] Through the method of plaster body casting and experimental film making, Le Sommeil d’un Mannequin is a
body of the participant and the participant as co-existing in the same sphere. Because mannequins and consumers share no common
way of visual merchandising —to market and sell fashion ideas has been a part of retail stores, for
practice-based research that examines the relationship between the female body and that of the
characteristics, the goal was to place both a consumer and mannequin within one frame, to
centuries. But mannequins don’t just sell clothes. They are the threedimensional mirror reflective of the ever-changing societal perception of beauty standards.
mannequin. It bears the importance to the study of material culture because the mannequin in my study considers the human essence present in the fabrication and production of a cultural object. In other words, it is reflective of a real human figure (not one build from an assembly line) to which memory and meaning are otherwise attached.
which common characteristics could exist. Using film as a figurative window allowed for both the female body and the mannequin to coexist. Viewers would then be able to draw their connection and understanding of the two.
From, ancient headless bodies to mannequins with faces; to modern mannequins with full-fledged human figures that changed its shape -from bustier mannequins with tiny waists to slender figures that suddenly became very voluptuous, to current day emaciated form- it has been instrumental in enforcing stereotypes around perceptions of perfection. The lifeless figures go beyond “display clothes”; this visible and iconic but unsettling representation of a human body can affect the self-
LG Going back to my previous statement, understanding “the importance of the mannequin as being an object of material cultural (…)” was essential to this study so that the mannequin can reveal itself to be more than just a cultural
LG Many of us are aware of the misrepresentation of the mannequin figure. It comes as no surprise-but rather a disappointment when we realize that the mannequin’s body is far from the reality of our own. Mannequins can easily be compared to the images of fashion models we see in a magazine or the runway. While the impact of our body image is confronted more by
image of millions around the world, and influence their behavior. FORWARD took an interest in "Le
display of feminine identity. One of the goals of this project was to take the mannequin from one window
the likes of supermodels, mannequins do as much body shaming on consumers.
Sommeil d’un mannequin" to understand the weight of mannequin fashion.
and place 'her' into one that would prompt a different conversation. I wanted my viewers to see the mannequin as embodying the
I can recount numerous times leaving a store feeling bad about my body after having had tried on a
FORWARD [FW] "Le Sommeil
essence of a ‘real’ human figure.
piece of garment I saw on the
My film includes both the casted
mannequin. While I am aware that manufacturers of garments found in
d’un mannequin," what does it mean?
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FW The significance of the study in 'the system of fashion.'
FW What is the central theme of the study?
fast-fashion retail stores do a fabulous job misrepresenting sizes, having to do a walk of shame out of
own experience as a window dresser. I worked in retail for what feels like a life time and much of my
FW Do you have a take-home message to share with our readers?
a store because a top didn’t fall well on my body, I think is a call for concern.
time was spent behind a glass window- working towards creating the “perfect” look for consumers. One day, after spending a few
LG The study of fashion is a growing discourse with many gaps waiting to be filled. Taking an iconic
That is why, in doing this project, I chose a participant whose body type was not your typical size 0. I wanted to create a mannequin that
hours behind this glass wall, I asked myself, “if any- what was the connection that existed between the mannequin and female body?”
object like the mannequin, and combining it with the practice of experimental filmmaking, allowed me to [figuratively] rid the
I never actually tried to answer this question after that. I only puffed,
mannequin from its glass box. By deconstructing the image of the mannequin to be an object that is
replicated human imperfection. Each crack and bump found on my mannequin were done to counter the perfectly smooth body of manufactured mannequins. I guess in some way Le Sommeil d’un Mannequin in a way can be read as depicting the fear of imperfection. FW What inspired you to explore this topic? LG My inspiration stems from many academic disciplines. But more importantly, it is derived from my
rolled my eyes and continued with my life. It wasn’t until after being accepted in the MA Fashion program at Ryerson University did I find myself face to face with this question once again. It is thanks to the facilities and resources at Ryerson that I was able to take my research from being a simple research question to a short 5minute experimental film.
less than perfect, in many ways, I believe that this project also comments on dominant ideologies found within this industry. This movement to counter attack all negative aspects of the fashion system is what fashion innovators should be working [towards]. My hope is that this study brings awareness to consumers who have fallen into a ‘Sommeil’ of their own.
"Le Sommeil d’un mannequin" Practice-based research by Laura Del Giacco
Download it today via Ryerson University
Born in Montréal Quebec, Laura Del Giacco majored in Film Studies and Art History at Concordia University. She moved to Toronto to pursue an MA in Fashion at Ryerson University. The University recognized le Sommeil d'un Mannequin as the Most Outstanding Major Research Project of her graduating class. Laura is currently back in Montréal, starting a second degree in Film Production at the Mel Hoppenheim School of Cinema at Concordia University. After completing a second BFA, she hopes to pursue a Ph.D. in Visual Arts.
Fur Cruel fashion faux-pas or a wearable protest to fast-fashion?
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Written by Reba Harrison
T
he Canadian fur industry began in the 1500s using the animals of the “New Land” as a beautiful and natural resource for surviving the cold climate. However, with the colonization and industrialization of the land, the progress of the market has brought stress on the environment and human morality; both of which are no strangers to conflict with a capitalist or consumer-driven societal system.
According to the Truth About Fur, most citizens find the conditions of fur trapping and fur farming acceptable if the species existent
to waterproof and preserve leathers, in cosmetics, and as a fine lubricant.”
nursing their young, and solitary rest in their dens and enrichment areas¹.
not threatened; is not subject to unnecessary pain or cruelty; the killing is for a meaningful use only; and if the killing involves minimum
While countries like Canada that benefit from the fur trade work to create regulations and requirements, other countries have
“I think if people came to visit the farm…they would be surprised by how well the mink are fed, and by the amount of time and effort that
waste. But many people are passionate about living a no-fur lifestyle and believe that as a species, humans should revoke their position as fur consumers. Their arguments center around animal ethics and environmental impacts with both points directly relating themselves to human morale.
made efforts to ban it. The Fur Farming (Prohibition) Bill of 2000 banned fur farms in England and Whales, deeming the practice unethical.
goes into giving them a good life,” says Canadian mink farmer Catherine Moores.¹
In response to these protestors, the fur industry has created regulations and claimed its higher ground in comparison to its human-made counterpart on the environmental impact. Whereas the contemporary use of “fast fashion” promote large amounts of low-quality products, expense furs last for decades often as heirlooms and do not waste away in landfills.
As opposed to trapping wild animals, an estimated 85 percent of furs produced globally are farmed, with half of the furs in North America farmed, and most commonly from mink.¹ Farmed animals are domesticated and bred to be larger and more docile to “acquire biological features that make them different from the wild animals from which they originate,” explains Dr. Knud Helloer, allowing them to feel more comfortable in a farm setting.²
“Farmed mink are euthanized with bottled carbon monoxide gas,” reads the Fur is Green website, explaining that a mobile unit is brought to each animal’s home den and conducted by their caretakers to reduce stress. For larger animals such as foxes, a specially-designed unit is often used to euthanize the animal which produces an electrical current to stun and kill quickly. But while these methods of euthanization may be considered ethical to their alternatives, Animal Rights activists disagree, presenting the argument that it is not a human’s place to be in the business
According to Fur is Green, North America furs farms are held to high
of euthanizing animals.
The debate on fur in fashion extends beyond the soft hair itself. There is the conversation of leather, suede, and non-vegan cosmetic products and diets. But more
standards and considered top quality globally³. Canadian farmers must use biosecurity measures to ensure no disease or infection rises
According to the Fur is Green website, fur trapping maintains a stable and healthy wildlife population in response to “boom
directly related to Canadian fur
or spreads in the area and are
and bust” reproduction cycles. They
farming, Fur is Green says that the farmed “mink provide fat that is rendered to produce mink oil, used
encouraged to the allow the animals freedom to express natural behaviors such as breeding,
list that overpopulation causes endangered species through an abundance of predators; diseases
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Academia
that may transfer to pets, livestock and humans; damaged properties (especially with beavers and
cities, everything we depend on for our survival still comes from nature” reads Fur is Green, explaining that
Nickelson.”
muskrats), and; livestock depletion.
humans have affected nature, and now we must become responsible and calculated with how we help sustain health in nature.
or dressing) is required to maintain and enhance each pelt. Other operations such as shearing, dyeing, and carving may be used to
“Wildlife departments strictly control the types of traps used and how often they must be checked (usually
The idea that wild animals can serve humans as a renewable resource is the central principle of
create particular effects in a pelt. Processing consumes energy and must, therefore, be done responsibly, but many argue that it
24-hours), as well as the periods during which each species may be targeted. Trapping seasons are
environmental conservation as promoted by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN),
is not done so.
timed for late Fall and Winter when fur pelts are prime (to avoid waste) and the young of the year have set off on their own.
the Worldwide Fund for Nature (WWF) and the UN Environment Program (UNEP).
April 2011, PETA representative Paula Moore wrote:
Fur Is Green states on their website:
Lethal traps are designed to kill animals quickly to reduce suffering, says Pierre Canac-Marquis, furbearer biologist and trapresearch coordinator¹. Animals too large for kill traps are caught with foot/leg-hold traps designed to cause minimal injury until the trapper arrives. Steel jaw traps are banned in most
However, the larger issue is the chemicals used in the fur trade. The Fur Free Alliance website reads: “It takes at least four times more energy to produce a real fur coat than to produce a synthetic fur coat, mostly due to animal feed and emissions of manure… High levels of chemicals [such] as
Processing (also known as tanning
In a letter to the Jersey Journal in
“A new report released in Europe found that fur is more harmful to the environment than any other material studied - including polyester… Fur coats, like other animal skins, are loaded with chemicals ... sulfuric acid, ammonium chloride, formaldehyde, lead acetate, sodium perborate and more. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, one of the chemicals used in dyeing furs, hexavalent chromium, is a hazardous waste.”
regions, but many Animal Rights activists make the point that a ban does not guarantee its dismissal. And while the government creates regulations⁴ and provides training
formaldehyde and ethoxylates are found in most fur trims, which can cause allergies, cancer, and hormonal imbalance.
courses to trappers to learn “conservation principles, safety, pelt preparation (again, to prevent
“Toxics in fur are absorbed through air or skin and can remain in the body for over twenty years, causing
fur today are raised on fur farms, which produce tens of thousands of tons of waste every year, including
waste), and the proper use the most humane trapping system… To capture proper species without endangering other animals”,¹ it does not promise human moral behavior.
chronic health effects. Recent studies in Italy, The Netherlands and Germany⁵ have detected significant harmful amounts of toxic substances in fur trims on children fashion wear by brands as D&G,
manure, shavings, straw and animal corpses. Many of the carcasses from fur farms end up rotting in landfills.”
Woolrich, Canada Goose and
that foxes and minks eat livestock
“Although most of us now live in
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However, no sources were presented, including the report in reference. “The majority of animals killed for
In contrast, Fur is Green explains
Photographer Koko Tchorbadjian @kokophoto | Stylist Mason Schlueter @unique_stylings | Beauty Jennifer Reyes @the.facecollector | Model Alice @aliceyamagishi @peggilepage_models @bnmmodels | Designer listed at the end of article
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leftovers and their feces, organic bedding and bones are grown to fertilize the soil.
faux fur and other animal byproducts, the trades which use animals should cease to exist.
“[R]esearchers at the University of California at Santa Barbara have found that, on average, synthetic
The reverse question asks whether genuine fur is better or worse than the polyester used to create “fun
fleece jackets release 1.7 grams of micro fibers each wash. And that this is having a devastating effect on our rivers, oceans and marine
fur,” and whether the lifespan of genuine fur compensates for its chemical making.
life. It also uncovered that older jackets shed almost twice as many fibers as new ones.”
Kathryn J. Kitzmiller, Ph.D. explains⁷ how a process called carroting currently uses mercury
“Most synthetic textiles (including fake or “faux” fur) are made with petroleum, a non-renewable
“A real fur coat can last for 30 years and with a bit of clever restyling need never go out of fashion. Plus it
nitrate after years of using camel urine to remove the fur from the skin of small animals.
resource. Up to one gallon of petroleum is needed to produce three synthetic jackets. The production of synthetic fibers also involves chemical reactions at high temperatures, producing potentially harmful substances,” reads Fur is Green.
offers extraordinary comfort and warmth. Fakes, on the other hand, are ‘disposable fashion’ and hang around in most wardrobes for no more than five years or so, if they’re lucky,” writes Oaten. He continues to acknowledge the chemical issues of the dyeing and dressing of fur: “We openly acknowledge this and are working hard to mitigate the impact of the production process.”
The World Bank listed the fur industry as one of the world’s five worst for toxic-metal pollution.⁶ On the website of the Chemical Abstracts Service: A Division of the American Chemical Society (CAS),
The Baseline Water Quality Survey of the Annapolis, Cornwallis and Habitant River Watersheds published in June 2014 for Nova Scotia Environment expands on the environmental impact of fur farms⁸. The findings concluded that fur farms degrade the quality of water in the areas of operation. Specifically, nutrient levels and fecal coliform bacteria numbers are high in nearby waters.
The quality of a fur garment is one of its strongest arguments, and this directly affects its economics. Each pelt is unique and graded and
The Humane Society of the United States released a publication on January 29, 2009, titled Toxic Fur: The Impacts of Fur Production on
use of fossil energy is the huge translocation of carbon from the ground into the atmosphere accompanied by emissions of sulphur and nitrogen oxides as well
inspected at the auction houses which provide a positive supply and demand scale, ensuring that farmers get the market value for their pelts. Fur farming and trapping
the Environment and the Risks to Human Health which goes into further detail of the pollution, energy
as all kinds of hydrocarbons, and heavy metals. Fossil fuels are also the dominant global source of
provide income for many rural families with limited employment opportunity.¹
consumption, and chemical. The conclusion of the publication states the animal fur is by no means a “green” product.
anthropogenic greenhouse gases.’’¹⁰
Animal Rights advocates like Eden⁹ believe that with the development of
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In his book Biodegradable and Sustainable Fibres, Richard Blackburn explains, “The main problems with synthetic polymers are that they are nondegradable and non-renewable… An even more important problem with the
In his blog article Faux Fur Is More Than a Faux Pas, It’s Poison¹¹, Mark Oaten writes:
A hard-working immigrant and longtime Canadian, Toronto designer Farley Chatto earns his living through his skill in the fashion of fur. In an interview with Lauren La Rose, Chatto told La Rose that a
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coat takes at least a week to start and may require special techniques such as stripping.¹²
regulations and continue with the fur farming business. Above all, what matters is the quality of fur
The question of fur use is a question of ethics which is too broad to be assessed realistically in
and the quality of animal life.” Like many other fur retailers in Toronto, Chatto goes to measurable lengths to ensure his material is
Some advocates believe furs should only be bought second-hand
black-and-white. In the end, this debate is one of a lifestyle choice. And as such, it revolves around individual human desires which
generated under high standards of governing regulations. With a distaste to “fun fur” which pollutes the Earth through man-made
to avoid contributing to the demand for the product. Advocate Eden⁹ told FORWARD, “I think if someone were an animal activist, that they
have never existed in unison. Despite the passion of empathy for Animal Activists, the fur trade is deeply embedded in the Canadian
materials and chemicals, Chatto refers to genuine fur as “the most green of all materials.”¹²
would be fine to buy it from a second-hand store [so as not to pay the companies directly] because it's
market, and its luxurious texture and warmth will always be in demand of a population.
In an interview with Real Face of Animal Rights, once-vegan Andre Cavaco described his transition to becoming a fur seller after falling in love with the texture. Though few Animal Rights activists would agree, Cavaco described his anti-fur phase as a result of social pressure.
already been made, so why make them die in vain?”
“Everyone around me was an anti[fur], so I got peer-pressured into it myself. I always had pets at home, and the thought of them being turned into coats made me sick. I think it was the media that had the
“I feel as though it takes a certain, special person, to step outside their immediate wants (like what ‘tastes good’) and put ahead of the well being of another creature. We are [over] 7 billion strong and we cannot support the same lifestyles that we once did. People have evolved. Our lifestyles have evolved. Our medicine has evolved. Our tools have evolved. Our food has evolved. So why can't our clothing?” asks Eden.
biggest impact on me. I was going through [my] adolescent period when the TV show Top Models did I’d rather be naked than wear fur campaign. Media, all of a sudden,
In response to the topic of Animal Rights activists protesting at runway shows, Oaten writes on his blog, “Freedom of choice is a basic right,
started talking about the cruelty of fur.”
and I find it shocking that these protesters don’t respect that. Their bullying aggressive and disturbing
When questioned about the ethics of fur farming and animal welfare, Cavaco said, “People don’t understand how well animals should be looked after for them to have great skins… I believe we
tactics have no place in a world where there is already too much violence - and certainly not in the fashion world… I urge these protesters to respect that in life we all have different views and
should keep improving fur farm
lifestyles.”¹¹
However, there is something that we as a citizen can unanimously agree upon: not unlike most modern industries, the fur industry must push itself to find safer, and more sustainable practices if it is to survive. In every industry, the human species must quickly work to establish a “greener way” of operating, but the fur industry is near the top of our list.
Sources available on page 99. Designers of Editorial Photos Furs by FURious Fur @Furious_fur | Red Dress by Vivienne Pash @viviennepash | Sequin Gown by Vivienne Pash @viviennepash | Mesh Dress by Tara Rivas @tararivas | Knitted crop top by Ibotee Brand @ibotee_brand | S necklace & blue pendant by Musesa Jewelry @monica_frangulea | Earrings with blue fur by Musesa Jewelry @monica_frangulea | Red burnt wrap by Rachelle Anne Wear (R.A.W) @rachelleannewear
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Academia
The Truth About
Cotton Article by Jason Spitoski Spitoski is the creator and founder of Buddha Boxers, insanely breathable bamboo underwear, offering comfortable and sustainable boxers for men with free shipping to Canada.
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C
otton is a popular fabric used for clothing, it’s easy to care for, strong, breathable, and hypoallergenic. It’s hard to find clothes that aren’t made with cotton in some way. It can be combined with almost any other kind of fiber to make a wide variety of fabrics. Cotton comes from the fluffy boll that surrounds cotton plant seeds. Bolls are processed and combed into yarn, that yarn goes on to be woven together to make various fabrics, which are then used to make clothing.
But cotton has several draw backs that are exacerbated by outdated
about 2.4% of the worlds arable farm land, farmers are often forced
that one crop move in, and they can devastate a crop in days. Regular
government policies.
to plant cotton in areas that do not get enough rain. This has resulted in 73% of cotton grown requiring irrigation, including the southern
cotton is always a mono-crop, and it has an especially long list of pests and parasites that can kill it.
USA.
Killing Cotton Is Easier
Poorly managed cotton production has had devastating effects on the environment. The most visible example is the Aral Sea (2) going from the 4th largest lake in the world to a desert because local governments since the 1960s diverted all the rivers and waterways into cotton production. This let the Aral Sea evaporate and give way to the Aralkum Desert, whose sands are so polluted with pesticides and herbicides from decades of cotton industry runoff, dust blown from the Aralkum Desert (3) has infected animals as far away
To prevent their crops from being completely destroyed by pests, cotton farmers use a lot of pesticide and herbicide (5). In fact, even though cotton only uses 2.4% of the worlds arable land, it uses 16% of pesticides (6). Pests and fungi are such a problem for farmers that they’ve had to result to drastic steps to ensure they can profitably grow cotton. One measure to minimize the impact of bugs has been to pull the plant out of the ground after it’s been harvested, even though cotton is a perennial. This ensures any eggs or spores have been
Machines + Chemicals > Slaves Before cotton picking machines existed, slaves were used the world over to pick cotton. Machines were able to make slaves uneconomical once they were able to pick the cotton bolls accurately. But cotton leaves and other plant matter often got in the way, causing machines to break down and generally drove up costs. So cotton farmers started using defoliants to kill off all the unwanted plant matter and make it easier for machines to pick the bolls. The problem with defoliants is that they are very toxic, a famous example of a defoliant is Agent Orange, a chemical used by the US during the Vietnam war that ended up ruining millions of lives with huge spikes in cancer rates, birth deformities, and making thousands of square miles of land unusable.
as Antarctica with its toxins.
Monocropping = Insect AllInclusive
more than 2000 liters of water to
Monocropping/monoculture is when a farmer only plants one type of plant at a time, it makes planting and harvesting crops easier. But the major problem with monoculture (4)
grow (1) enough cotton for one pair of boxer briefs, and because it is such a popular cash crop using
one type of crop growing. Insects, fungi, and other pests that only eat
Leave the Garden Hose On Cotton is a thirsty plant. It requires
is vast spans of farmland with only
completely removed from the field. But pulling cotton plants out and exposing the soil to the air causes the soil to lose nutrients, which has lead to cotton farmers needing to put fertilizer in their soil for the next season’s crop. Farmers use around 35 kg of fertilizer per acre (7) of cotton field every year. Much of that fertilizer is potash, which itself is typically mined intensively far away from cotton fields (leaving a giant
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carbon footprint).
Just Use Round Up Another controversy surrounding cotton is the extensive use of Genetically Modified Organisms (GMOs). Genetically modified cotton is able to withstand proprietary herbicides and pesticides without harming the cotton plant. GMO cotton was first used in 1995 and now accounts for 95% of all cotton grown (8) in the US and India. There are many other problems associated with cotton, including child slavery (9), cotton field workers dying (10) from exposure to cotton’s various chemicals to animals coming into deadly contact with the chemical aftermath (11) of cotton farming.
Alms For Big Agra But the worst part is that governments encourage the cotton status quo. In the US, cotton farmers get billions of dollars in cotton subsidies (12), China and other large cotton producers also subsidize their cotton industries, distorting the actual cost of cotton with governments around the world spending an estimated $6.5 billion on cotton subsidies (13) in 2013.
corporations spend a lot on lobbying the US government, more than $32 billion in 2016 (15). Monsanto spent more than any other organization lobbying the US government; it is also the largest seller of (GMO) cotton seeds.
Looking Beyond Cotton There is no single fabric that has a zero carbon footprint supply chain. But there are alternative crops that can be used to make the fabric more sustainably than cotton.
Wool Wool isn’t a crop; it comes from sheep. But it is a natural yarn and if done right, sustainable. Wool makes a very breathable fabric that is hypoallergenic and very warm to wear. When you look at the entire supply chain of wool, however, you run into familiar problems. The biggest problem is the monoculture. Vast swaths of land full of sheep attract mites and other pests that prey on sheep. Lots of pesticides are used on any large scale sheep farm. Then there is the question of the feed for the sheep. Is it GMO feed? What hormones are used? Was the feed harvested sustainably?
irrigation water, synthetic fertilizer, or pesticides. All US organic cotton is GMO-free. Though increasingly popular, only 0.7% of cotton grown around the world is organic (16). One of the problems with cotton is that it simply doesn’t produce as much fabric material per acre of land as other crops can.
Rayon / Viscose Eucalyptus Rayon / Viscose is an artificial fabric made of plant cells. Some viscose yarn manufacturing processes use
cotton? The short answer is extensive lobbying. The cotton industry has been around for a long
Organic Cotton
chemicals that are harmful if not disposed of properly. But the ecological benefits of this fabric can be huge. Consider Tencel yarn
time and is famously resistant to change. The few large cotton
Organic cotton has become popular
made from eucalyptus trees, eucalyptus trees are one of the
in recent years. Cotton is called organic when it doesn’t use any
Why do governments subsidize
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producers in the US (14) seem to get a majority of the cotton subsidies. Large agriculture
largest trees in the world, you get 10x as much fabric per acre of land
with eucalyptus trees (17) than cotton, and eucalyptus trees don’t need any pesticides.
Eucalyptus trees. Because it is the fastest growing plant on earth, and it is a grass that doesn’t need to be
But Tencel grows its eucalyptus in South America (18), ships the wood to its facilities in Europe to make the
replanted after it’s harvested, bamboo can yield up to 4x more fabric per acre (19) than eucalyptus trees. It doesn’t need any pesticides
yarn, and then ships the yarn to another facility (usually in China) to be made into fabric. In addition to an extensive global supply chain
or fertilizers, nor does it need irrigation water. What’s more, most bamboo used in textiles is grown in China, where it is also processed
that leaves a giant carbon footprint, eucalyptus trees require a lot of water, making them only profitable
and goes through its life cycle to end up being a garment. It has a much smaller carbon footprint than
in the marginal land that gets a lot of rain.
any other fabric crop when you consider its local supply chain, and bamboo absorbs up to 4x CO2 than other trees, one hectare can absorb more than 60 tonnes of CO2 (20), further minimizing its carbon footprint.
Bamboo Bamboo is another plant that is used to make viscose, and it is even more productive than
Hello, Nudity? There isn’t a perfect fabric or supply chain that is able to meet the needs of 7 billion people sustainably, but there are a lot of alternatives to traditional cotton that are becoming more and more common. As humanity begins to appreciate and understand the problems involved in sustainably clothing everyone, more good ideas are being discussed, and more solutions are being explored. Fingers crossed we’ll figure something out that doesn’t make creating or buying clothes guilt-wrenching. Soures available on page 199, and online at buddhaboxers.com/why-cotton-is-bad/
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Academia
Portrait
of a
SHOE
Interview and Article by Ugyen Wangmo Photos provided by The Bata Show Museum Photographer Ron Wood
The Importance of Shoes An interview with
Senior Curator Elizabeth Semmelhack of the Bata Shoe Museum A fine pair of shoes is necessary to the foundation of every stellar outfit,
Shoes execute the most basic job: to protect our feet. But they are also
adding that final statement of panache. Correct shoes will compliment an outfit entirely, while a pair amiss will destroy an
an expression of personality. It is an iconography to establish group identity and to declare status. There are sermons in shoes, and no one
otherwise well thought out ensemble.
knows this better than Senior Curator Elizabeth Semmelhack of the Bata Shoe Museum. With the subject of shoes being her playground for 17 years, this master of fashion and art history knows that a pair of shoes is beyond its function of protection or mobility.
It is no secret in shopping that saving to splurge on one or two expensive pairs of shoes is a much better route to take than dropping money on many cheap pairs which will last only for the season. From function to utilitarianism, shoes are the investment piece of a fashion lover's life.
Elizabeth Semmelhack
Shoes are laden with cultural meanings, associations, and stereotypes. The symbolic and allegorical significance of footwear has overshadowed its practical
As Semmelhack explores footwear's history from around the world, she makes cross-cultural connections to the political influences and constructions of gender and economics behind fashion. She finds out that shoes most often relate to discomfort and curiously impractical styles.
value. Shoes are a compelling and emotive subject that holds a special place in the imagination of the consumer. But footwear (often
collection of over 13,000 shoes, from ancient Egypt to today that includes every culture under the sun. 17 years [working with shoes] and I still have many questions I need to ask. Looking at footwear has proven to be an interesting entry point into a much larger cultural issues.
Semmelhack is one of the most influential players in fashion right now. FORWARD sits down with the
FW May you describe your preferences in shoes?
matriarch of the footwear herself to pick her brain on everything shoes.
ES I am drawn to shoes that have a
referred to as the 'Cinderella' of fashion theory) is frequently overlooked and underestimated. FORWARD attempts to explore the many paradoxes inherent in shoes... from designing, collecting, consuming, representing, to wearing a pair of shoes.
FORWARD [FW] May you tell us about studying shoes as a profession? Elizabeth Semmelhack [ES] It is compelling. To be surrounded by a
history. Many of the shoes that I wear link to something that I have studied. For instance, [she points at her Adidas Superstar Slipons] when you look at this particular pair, they look contemporary but what I am seeing is the 'contemporary' mashed-up with the old Adidas
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A look into the Coveted Room, photographed by Ugyen Wangmo
Shelltoes which first debuted in 1969. While I was researching sneakers for my exhibition and book Out of the Box: The Rise of Sneaker Culture I began to wear sneakers on a more regular basis. Now they are a staple, in part because of this work but also because they are very comfortable.
footwear is deserving of serious study too. Unfortunately, this kind of artifact is often not preserved either in actuality or the historical record. FW May you summarize the contribution of your work to fashion?
I have a soft spot for Roger Vivier
Material choice can also seem counterintuitive. Shoes made of or
ES Footwear is understudied; it offers a unique entry point to some larger cultural issues. [Footwear] brings a lens to moments in time
shoes and Manitobah Mukluks. If you ask me what I appreciate in terms of the aesthetics of footwear,
embellished with expensive or fragile materials are more useful in conveying social meaning rather
that can reveal new and refreshing insights and work on. Creating a deeper understanding of the history
I would say that I am personally most drawn to the architecture of shoes.
than improving wear. The history of many shoes isn't so much a history of practicality as it is a history of impracticality, at least when
of footwear can help us not only see our current shoe [trends] but our social selves in interesting ways.
FW What valuable lesson have you learned while working at the Bata Shoe Museum?
considering the footwear of the privileged.
Shoes are foundational to fashion and link to comportment and how the garments are worn. I don't think you can have a full understanding of an ensemble and not consider the impact of the footwear paired
ES To question assumptions. The idea that shoes have a basic job to
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do (to protect your feet) and are supposed to help with mobility might seem to sum up the history of shoes. The high heel, for example, flies in the face of that observation. In fact, when you look at the history of footwear around the world, upper-class privilege is often expressed through remarkably uncomfortable footwear.
Having said this, footwear has been worn by people of all socioeconomic levels, and their
with it. FW What is your opinion on the importance of shoes in fashion? ES Today, shoes are incredibly important... especially the sneakers. Some of the reasons for why shoes have become a focus is in many ways that it's “the move towards a democratic fashion, a move towards athleisure." I give this example quite a bit; if you go back to the 50's and watch the television show I Love Lucy you will see Lucy spend a lot of time shopping for hats. She was "hat crazy" like how some women [today] are "shoe crazy." Woman don't have hats anymore, we have lost that accessory. We are not expected to wear pearls, white gloves, carry little hand bags or wear a skirt with crinoline. Foot wear is increasing the burden of establishing status, fashion sense, and sometimes gender. We
Elton John Platform Boots
are expecting our footwear to do the job of what [multiple] accessories have done in the past. So they now have a bigger job to do. FW What is your opinion on the construction of shoes: Art versus Design? ES I am studying something that people made. It is not what is good or bad regarding art, shoes or
painting. I am more interested in asking why it was made and why anyone cared. Art appreciation is when you and I can walk into a museum to engage and be opinionated based on our aesthetics. To study about these painting in history, you will have to put the aesthetics aside. It is the same with fashion history. FW What is your opinion on fashion: Art or Frivolity? ES I will never define art or fashion as frivolous; they are central cultural and economic agents. The question is: What is art? What qualifies art as art? It is not that fashion doesn't deserve to be considered art; I am still recovering from the other angle going why we say some things are art and others are not. I am not as interested in value
Vivier Louis Heel, 1965
laden judgment. I might personally
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like one object more than another, but in regards to hierarchical
The move towards athleisure is quite interesting. I, myself, am
were being expressed through fashion, we would have widely
cultural value, I am not sure. Is the dress less than a painting? I think we have become conditioned to
getting weary of retro [and] of the constant look to the past with some glimmers of a new design. We are
different forms of dress. [However, we generally] wear very similar clothing one to the other.
believe that somehow a painting or art is more than a just dress or a chair.
in very uncertain political time, and fashion can be energized by challenging political scenarios, historically. I am waiting to see what
So I am wondering if customization will crack open real expression of individuality through fashion. It will
Why assume that one is better than the other and that we desperately need to get fashion up to that category? Maybe we should think:
will develop over the next couple of years.
Why should that category exist?
the direction of modern fashion?
FW What is your observation of
ES One of the things that I am
the current fashion culture?
interested in is customization and where that will lead. Certainly, this concept of hyper-individualization [relates to the popularity and availability of choice]. We brandalias someone who wears Jordans [by assuming that they do not] wear Adidas. We end up having this selfconstruction based on a brand alliance.
ES Women's fashion is taking a back seat to men's fashion. I am sitting back looking at this and wondering what this [will] mean. Knowing that market forces play a substantial part of the art world as well the fashion world, I am trying to see if this is just a reflection of economic shifts. What is it that is making the male fashion consumer possible? Not effeminized, [menswear] maintains its masculinity and still participates in fashion.
FW What are your opinions on
My question is: What will happen when we begin to customize those brands beyond color choice? We may phase into individual expression through fashion. We don't yet do that. If individuality
mean that there will not be a [defined] style which we are seeing with the hyper eclecticism in fashion right now. Or, if people will be paralyzed by not being able to say “I dress like this!” FW How would you describe your most substantial challenge? What do you do to overcome it? ES I have the luxury of working with objects that people are all very familiar with... or think that they are familiar with. It comes with a potential idea that they already know what there is to know about the [subject] form of footwear. [To overcome this,] I need to always frame footwear in ways that help people see its cultural meanings in fresh - and hopefully insightful ways. FW What drives your motivation? ES Curiosity! FW Have you any wisdom for our readers to "take home?" ES [Yes,] that the question “Why?” is the most important question of all. This interview has been edited and condensed.
Vivier Comma Heel, 1963
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American man's peacock heel, early 1970s
Canadian designed and made boot by Master John, 1973
Boy's polony heel, mid-17th century
English man's leather shoe, 1760-80
Italian man's papal red silk shoe, early 18th century
Geri Halliwell's Spice Boots
Academia
High on Heels Transitional Symbolism
from Function, to Status, to Gender
Photographer Jahthane Walwyn-Bent @ybgwac
The high heel is a symbolic object of fashion from being a functionally to a measurement of status, gender, and sexuality. There is something about standing a few inches taller that never fails to make a woman feel more confident and powerful. Or is it a false power that only
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merely shoes, and they certainly are more fraught than their fellow shoe types. The high-heeled shoe is not only weighted with the wearer’s entire body, but it is weighted with meaning; thousand of years of history that dates all the way back to Medieval Persia leading to the
in history), heels have become ubiquitous in our society. In the early 2000's, high heels were required in many social situations. Fast forward to 2017; heels have slipped from their pinnacle of fashion. The latest visible discourse being that of B.C. Green Party Leader Andrew Weaver's move to
demands judgment and criticism? It feels oppressive when you find yourself having to adhere to painful practices reinforced by gender
current day Carrie Bradshaw.
stereotypes to demand respect in the sense of confidence and power.
intense now that the two are inseparable.
from their elevated pedestal of importance in fashion. Instead, Myriad designs of sneakers and
Not to mention that the heel is a highly feminized object of sexual allure, subjugating the wearer to
The stiletto as a women's shoe is an object of constant scrutiny and discourse. Without intrinsic meaning
other forms of footwear are taking their place.
male-demanded imprisoning to treat men's sexual desire. Heels are not
of its own (but rather radically different meanings at various times
Despite all of it, stilettos remain to stand tall upon us, at its highest
The identification of the high heel alongside women has become so
ban the dress code requirements on footwear based on gender. And with a similar movement in the United Kingdom, high heels have stumbled
point of symbolism which is laden with long historical trajectory.
It was actually around that same time. In the early 17th century there
heels. For example, although men wore heels of significant height they
And as such, it takes us back to the start with the question, “Where did it
was a craze in fashion for women to borrow from the male wardrobe. Women added men's hats to their
tended to be made of stacked leather and were broad and sturdy in design. Women’s, in contrast,
FORWARD examines the social history of the High Heel through the
outfits, some began to carry weaponry, and the donned heeled footwear, likewise, helped to masculinize their attire. The early
became more slender, sinuous and decorative. The higher heels on women’s shoes allowed them to also create the illusion of small feet,
unfiltered, intellectual lens of Senior Curator Elizabeth Semmelhack of the Bata Shoe Museum. In an extensive interview, Semmelhack
years of the heel did carry a connection to masculinity, but off the horse, the impracticality of the heel began to become useful in
a newly emerging mark of beauty. The higher the heel, the more the foot was hidden under the women's skirt leaving just the tips of the
takes us on an adventure of how the function of heels changed over time, and on how society wore the transitioning meaning of the heels at different times. So put on a pair of your favourite heels, and let us strut you down the runway of Semmelhack's knowledge on the issue.
proclamations of status. With his crimson high heels, King Louis XIV is the most famous 17th-century example of a person wearing heels to signify of power.
shoes visible making it seem as though the wearer had very tiny feet. It should come as no surprise that Perrault’s story, Cinderella, is written at this time.
How did high heels come to be specifically feminine?
By the 1740s, the majority of men abandoned heels, and they began to be transformed into complicated signifiers of femininity exclusively; it is a fear that remains with us to this day. By the end of the century, heels and their connections to ideas related to sexual manipulation and irrationality began to make them unpopular. After the French Revolution, heels went out of fashion for over 50 years.
come from?”
What is the origin of the heel? The origin of the heel goes at least as far back as the 10th century. Persian equestrians made use of heels to secure their feet in the stirrup, and I believe that this was the original reason why heels were invented, although exactly by who and when remains to be discovered. By the late 16th
Starting in the 17th century but becoming more fully articulated in the 18th century were ideas about gender that began to argue, in part, that men were inherently rational and women, in contrast, were inherently irrational. Fashion was on means of proclaiming these differences. As the 17th century progressed, gender difference begins to be seen in the construction of men’s and women’s
The first 50 years of the 19th century were dominated by a new
century, the heel became of interest to Europeans about increased contact with, and interest in, Persia. By the turn of the 17th-century, European men began to have heels added to first their riding boots and then their shoes. But when did women become interested in heels?
From the Defective Collective Design House at Toronto's Fantasy Fashion Show 2017. Photographed by Ugyen Wangmo.
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form of femininity centered on the so-called “cult of domesticity” which encouraged privileged women to focus on their homes and children. Their flat, insubstantial shoes reflected these new ideals. However, by the middle of the century, many women wanted to have a more direct engagement with the world, and some began to advocate for women’s rights. Interestingly, it is at this moment that the heel and all of its 18thcentury associations ushered back into fashion. To complicate things, the camera was invented, and soon pornographic images depicting women in little more than their footwear began to infuse women’s fashion shoes with increased erotic meaning. By the turn of the 20th century, heels had become signifiers of both femininity and mature sexual femininity as it was now deemed inappropriate for little girls to wear them. Over the course of the 20th century, these connections between high heels, desirability, and femininity have only become more complicated. There have been periods, the 1930s, 1940s, 1960s when heels have gone of women’s fashion yet they have remained paramount in men’s erotica. This consistent reliance on heels in pornography has infused heels with erotic symbolism that remains potent when heels come back into fashion. Why is there a strong association
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Persian man's shoe for horseback riding, 17th century
of women with high heels? Divorcing this connection at this point will be difficult. Heels are strongly linked to ideas of how a beautiful woman should appear. The importance of high heels within men's erotica is proof of their centrality to ideals of desirability. As long women’s desirability remains the principal means of assessing female value, high heels will remain central to women’s attire. Indeed, the high heel has become a primary icon of femininity, short hand for 'female.' A washroom door emblazoned with a heel very quickly
6-year-old or an 80-year-old in high heels. Why? The answer is that heels are linked to eroticism and sexual desirability, and it is in the direct relationship to this that their supposed power lies. My first problem with this is that we only allow women within a particular age range access to this ‘power.’ I find that this is something that perhaps we should consider more seriously. Are we willing to only have access to this power for a small portion of our lives? Furthermore, how does this power work?
communicates that space is for women.
Let’s say a woman decides to slip on a pair of high heels in the morning with the express purpose
What is the connection between heels and power? To have the high heel signify
of exploiting her erotic currency. My first question is how exactly does this work as erotic currency has no agreed upon value? She might
femininity is one thing, but power is another. The only time we are
hope that she will be able to sway people with her desirability, but the
comfortable with women in high heels is for a brief period in their lives. We are uncomfortable with a
real power lies with those who get to decide if indeed they find her attractive.
Furthermore, the exchange rate for this erotic currency is likewise set by the beholder. Will she get a little
wide varieties of footwear and use these different types of shoes as a vocabulary to express individual
understanding how the heel has been used to construct idealized femininity over the course of past
extra foam on her latte? Will she get a better mortgage rate? Who knows, it is up to the beholder to decide. The promotion of the idea
aspects of ourselves, including high heels which should rightly be an accessory that you use as you please. There is nothing inherently
couple centuries. So far, the heel has been used in ways that emphasize the differences between men and women with the goal of
that you are wielding power when in fact you are asking to be judged is problematic. If high heels were linked to actual power men would
meaningful in a pair of heels; its meaning is entirely culturally constructed and as the history heels demonstrate, completely malleable.
suggesting that womens' principal value is in relation to their perceived beauty and desirability.
want to wear them. Do heels empower women? We should think about the kind of power in question. What value are you getting from that power, and does that power have an expiration date? Are you at the height of your power when you are 21? Is that it? Is that what we want as women? To tell our daughters, ourselves, that we are only valuable for a short window of time when “somebody else” wants us. To embrace erotic currency as power seems selflimiting. Instead, perhaps we should change our ideas around female power.
What is the value of the high heel? Perhaps the greatest benefit of high heels is that wearing them allows you to meet the expectations of gender. However, I am not that interested in assigning a value to heels, but rather I am interested in
What will be the future of the heel? The meaning and function of heels have changed remarkably over the centuries. So who knows?! Anything is possible! ES. “Femininity is not a force. To heel, or not to heel? It is a choice!” Ugyen Wangmo
What does the woman's heel represent? One of the blessings that women have, and one which the men are starting to have, is extensive access to different kinds of fashion, to express ourselves. In regards to high heels, we have moved on from their obligatory state in many social situations. Indeed, a lot of sneakers are taking the place of high heels. We are lucky that we can now wear
English man's horseback riding boot, early 18th century
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Method to
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The Creation Mandate of
Dissected
Annie Thompson
ss Madne
T
he madness is to create an architecture for the body that is 'stylish, comfortable, functional, sustainable, and unisex.' From intent to action, from blueprint to result, from a piece of junk to one of value, there has never been a better designer to push the boundary of Sustainable Fashion than Annie Thompson. We are living in the era where sustainability and social responsibility are no longer a cynical
marketing ploy, but we also live in an age of cheap and fast fashion
Yes, we all know who Annie Thompson is without a doubt. She
She would rather be naked if not for those fundamentals in an outfit. All
bombarded with a stream of our “something new” on a daily basis. As conscientious consumers, it can be overwhelming; how do we know
is it the 'Pocket Queen' as much as she is the 'Vanguard of Sustainable Fashion.' Pockets are eponymous to her designs; while up in the
her designs are functional, easy to care for, and have pockets. 'Double zippers' are another quintessential of Annie Thompson Designs, she
where to spend our money best so that we’re not only making our wardrobe better, but also purchasing responsibly? Sustainability is clearly on the radar in the Canadian fashion industry, and we are inspired by remarkable people who put ethics at the heart of everything they do.
mountains of Nepal at a Psytrance festival, she wanted to be able to jump around to the music with the other happy people from around the world. She needed deep pockets that could hold her camera, phone, beers tickets, and money.
tells FORWARD.
Annie Thompson designs is a household name of sustainable wear and has been creating unique conscious designs for nearly four decades. FORWARD salutes Annie Thompson for her strident and perpetual spirit to create fashion with concern and regard, starting
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And pockets she made! A flap that solved that babysat Thompson's items and allowed her to dance however she wanted. “We like to dance through life, and when dancing through life, you want to make sure that you don't have to carry a purse if you don't want to,” explained Thompson on 'pockets'
As the leader in her field, Thompson did not wake up one day and simply decide to be a fashion designer. It was an evolution of first becoming an artist and studying art. Thompson was always a born lover of art and a "maker," as her creative parents made things themselves. “My mother always had the sewing machine out and was regularly making things [as a family of five we were on a budget]. For my eighth grade graduation, I remember my mom took me to some cheap store and got me a dress. It was kind of
from concept, to sourcing, to production, to being exclusive as to the individual need of her patrons. It is with deep emotion that she
being one of the essential quirks of the design.
construct each of her pieces. The spirit of responsibility is what brings Annie Thompson designs to life.
designer? “You have to look good; to look
personality, but that also fit and was flattering and comfortable. All those things became important to me,”
The garment is not just a piece of lifeless cloth, but rather it is an armor with soul to defend against waste, provide comfort, enhance
good requires the techniques of what to highlight and what to hide, such as where to put the pockets. As well as looking good, you have
shared Thompson to FORWARD. Her childhood experience with garments has a large influence on who she is as a designer today.
your personality, and with big hands (otherwise pockets) to hold things.
to feel good,” Thompson tells FORWARD.
Beyond fabrics, Thompson sustains
So what makes her a good
ugly, I thought, and I had to revamp it into something I liked. Whenever I went shopping, I could never find something I loved, suited my
Designer
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garment relationships which are missing in our modern day life. The vibrant relationship with the ego, the body, sensuality, lifestyle, and a choice of clothing is very intimate. To be able to make decisions about who is creating one's clothing and concluding on details with that person is the way of the past and the future, stated Thompson. “To have a connection with the individual who is making our clothes is new consumerism. It is more like citizenship-consumerism than consumer-consumerism. We don't
necessarily want more; we want something that gives pleasure, has
Today, without a doubt, Annie Thompson is nothing, if not
values, and adds something to our life which is measurable and palpable.”
leading Canada’s sustainable community.
“Never compare yourself to others for there will always be greater and lesser than yourself,” Thompson's mother told her. But as the free-spirited soul we know her to be, Thompson went ahead and compared anyway. Thompson recently attended the opening of her most beloved designer Rei Kawakubo's Comme des Garçons at the Spring 2017 Exhibition Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. In describing her creative process, Kawakubo says it is "not pleasurable too often… Each collection is like passing an examination” (Vogue US, August 1987). For Thompson, "The most difficult thing is beginning a collection [and] reigning in all of your billions of ideas to one little tiny starting point. When in the 'zone,' I feel like I could fly and the excitement of developing a thought into a 3D, usable, delightful garment for myself and others to enjoy buoys me. Exceptional and prolonged creativity makes me very
horny." When asked what makes her laugh, Kawakubo said, “Nothing” (Vogue US, May 2017). When asked the same question, Thompson exclaimed: "Sooooo many things…where do I begin?!" At the end of her MET gala opening party, Kawakubo was nowhere to be found.
While Thompson's take on inspiration is, "I had to be feeling UP and energized to create new pieces. Otherwise, they have an emptiness which would likely have been how I’d felt when trying to create them." Arguably the largest difference between Thompson and her favourite designer is the concept of utilitarianism. Kawakubo recently told Fashion
“As quickly as she appeared, she was gone,” wrote Tony Bravo (San Francisco Chronicle, May 24, 2017). Opposingly, Thompson would be sharing stories, laughter and another shot with the last lot of party-goers. Kawakubo 1997 Dress Meets Body; Body Meets Dress was inspired “by Kawakubo’s anger at seeing a Gap shop window filled with banal black clothes” (The New Yorker, July 2005).
Magazine “Personally, I don't care about function at all...” (August 2017). Usefulness doesn’t matter to REI. It is secondary only, to style and fit. But to Thompson, functionality is a creation mandate. Thompson appeals to the heart of FORWARD when she told us that “practicality is necessary for the flurry of our modern lives.”
All photography by Gwen Brydson @skyfulloflight
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Designer
Eco- Couture Collection by Elina Ten
Opulent, iconic, and unique. Elina Ten's creation is a wearable artwork created from silk and fine raw wool, incorporating ancient silk art and Nuno-felted techniques. Warm and delicate, seamless, reversible, and unbelievably soft, is what her exquisite designs offer your skin. The light, barely there fabric and shear with airy texture are a sensitive dialogue of eco-friendly materials. “Exquisite array of colour, texture, and emotion– it is like I create an original palette with each new artwork,” – Designer Elina Ten of Eco Couture.
Designer Elina Ten of Eco Couture | Model Jessica Gagnon | Makeup Artist Michelle Vien | Photographer Olga Hutsul @olgahutsulphotography
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Designer
S
olid L e at h e r
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B u i lt for
life.
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Designer
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First, there’s the craft of belt making. It demands a discipline and style and determination to do things in my own individual way. Then there’s the client connection of bespoke fashion – each one is a unique relationship unto itself. Independently, both elements drive me. Combined, they are my sweet spot. That opportunity to work with people one-to-one and provide a perfect look and fit fuels me every day. Call it a business if you like, but Solid Leather is nothing less than a lifelong passion. With Solid Leather, I’m not just building a business around belt making. This is about pursuing that passion and developing my craft. And that demands I forge my own path. I believe a belt is the most practical and essential piece of fashion in a wardrobe. For me it’s something that perfectly represents the principles that drive me: Endurance, integrity, effortless style and craftsmanship. I take those ideas seriously. To guarantee my belts for life, I have to. J esse B a t em a n Lea th er Artisia n ww w.soli d leather.com
Photographer Sam Moss of Moss Works @mossworksphotography
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Tumbler & Tipsy
wit
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h
i s e d
g
M r ne
l e a h ic
l u K
a v u
Up-cycled/ reassembled fashion trends/
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Meet Michael Kuluva the designer behind the brand Tumbler and Tipsy
FORWARD [FW] The brand Tumbler and Tipsy, what sets it
& T factor
shoot or fashion show that is over the top, we make sure it is very over
apart from the rest?
FW Can you describe the "mood board" of the collection?
exaggerated so anyone can see that this is supposed to be imaginative. T &T is not over produce as we are a 'boutique'
Michael Kuluva [MK] Tumbler and Tipsy (T & T) is a pop culture brand that exploded onto the fashion runway scene with faces like Kendall Jenner strutting our infamous designs. The T & T brand has been elevating each season by setting fashion trends plus finding new faces for the brand which has translated us into exploding worldwide. We are a forward thinking fashion brand that is innovative into exploring with other artists and other like minded brands to collaborate on pieces of fashion art. We love to dazzle the eyes! FW Please tell us a bit about your Fall/Winter 2017 Canadian collection.
MK This Tumbler and Tipsy FW 2017 collection are entitled, "The Tipsy Canadian Collection." It was [completely] inspired by my time traveling throughout the amazing country of Canada plus also experiencing the super fun cottage life in Muskoka. I wanted the collection to [also] honor Canada's 150 celebrations, so I designed specific garments that were just for that historic moment time for the country. FW It is hardly news that fashion is criticized for many reasons from pollution, body image, false representation of the model (retouch, filter), and biased
FW What is your view on mass production and fast fashion? MK Tumbler and Tipsy have been mass produced internationally for years, always for our Spring/ Summer collections, and I think that it is great for some brands that have the control over their production. We have a boutique reach within the retail sector which makes our designs limited in production quantity which is what our customers love!
MK Tumbler and Tipsy is 'all
I do like to play around during the Fall/Winter fashion season with one of a kind vintage garments that I can hand reconstruct to up cycle
local clothing manufacturers in Toronto for some of the designed collection, and then I was able to
inclusive' diverse brand. The brand and I are very outreaching to all demographics and think diversity is
the fashion market. Not only is it fun and beautiful, but it is also [more importantly] eco conscious!
source rare vintage Canadian pieces that were reconstructed with our "Tipsy" flair by hand in Canada. Swarovski crystals, fringe, tulle,
amazing! We strive for it to push our pop culture brand further and inspire new art and designs. We love to play with fantasy [as well] to
FW What do you believe is the true essence of fashion?
ribbon, sequins and other embellishments, is added to give T
explore more depth within fashion. However, when we do a photo
MK Fashion is the essence of each person's 'personal' style.
MK I wanted the entire FW 2017 Canadian collection to be produced in Canada. I was able to source
representation. Where do you stand on this?
focused brand that only produces limited quantities.
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Designer
Designer Michael Kuluva @michaelkuluva | Brand Tumbler and Tipsy @tumblerandtipsy | Photographer Olga Hutsul @olgahutsulphotography | Models Nini Amerlise @nini_4u & Ozzy Keles @ozzy.6.1 & Tyson Lamb @tysonlambentre
FW What are your views on the current scenario in fashion, and the direction of its future? MK I am a little sad about the future of fashion and where it is leading. Most of the cutting edge and pioneering retailers that support emerging designers have been closing such as Colette in Paris, Patricia Field in NYC and the multiboutique Kitson, to name a few. I am not sure where it is all headed right now especially with so many designers leaving the infamous New York Fashion Week shows. However, for T&T, we look forward to evolving, bring in new concepts, and stimulating ways to service our clients, worldwide. Excited to progress into a brand that is cutting edge, at entirety.
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Designer Michael Kuluva @michaelkuluva | Brand Tumbler and Tipsy @tumblerandtipsy | Photographer Olga Hutsul @olgahutsulphotography | Models Nini Amerlise @nini_4u & Ozzy Keles @ozzy.6.1 & Tyson Lamb @tysonlambentre
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Rachel Romu "My cane feels on the
regal
runway
contrary to it being used as a target on my back." 1 4 8
Voice
Photographer & Director Connor Remus @connorremusphotography | Model Rachel Romu @rachelromu
D
isabled bodies need to be seen as powerful, desirable, confident, and capable instead of merely inspiring! We need to be visible beside abled bodies.” I’m often tongue-tied when asked to talk about myself, as I’m still learning just exactly what that looks like with “disability” being a part of my identity. A lot of who I am, and who I had thought I
might be, has been altered by the changes in my health, since pretty
Nationals one summer, I wasn’t alarmed. Eventually, the pain began
paralysis in the diagnostic process. Despite three failed biopsies and
much any of the plans I had set out for myself before getting sick have been modified a handful of times, or more likely, thrown out altogether.
to interfere with my life outside of my sport, whereby by my senior year, I was struggling to sit through for an entire day of high school. At
uncertainty of what is to become of me, I still decided to move to Toronto to continue training in Canada to the best of my ability.
Starting from the pain During my childhood in Thunder Bay, ON., I was incredibly into gymnastics, but quickly became too tall for the sport. In my teen years, I re-purposed the skills I’d developed there to take on the world of track and field - more specifically the “field” part as a jumper. It took being dedicated to elite sports for the bulk of my childhood to make it to the international stage representing Canada, but only a few short years to get to where I am now; disabled, with a number of screws and rods inside of my spine.
its worst, it was dizzying, and I would be laid out on the floor in public, unable to tolerate the pressure from standing or sitting.
Alienation by Fashion Industry
Initially, I was diagnosed with Scheuermann's disease and scoliosis, but as success in treatment plateaued, the further investigation leads to the discovery of a spinal tumor inside of my T8 vertebrae. I felt betrayed by my body! Since a huge part of being an athlete involved taking good care of myself and eliminating the risk of any issues. In the wake of my diagnosis, I was not only negotiating scholarship offers with
Today, my life is very different from my days as an elite athlete. I’ve had two major spine surgeries in under two years, and just last fall received a diagnosis of the rare connective tissue disease, Ehlers-Danlos Syndrome (EDS). I’m always at one of the many hospitals throughout the city of Toronto; as EDS comes with pain throughout every and any part of my body, to some extent. In those waiting rooms, there are stacks of magazines, and I begin to notice that there wasn’t any visual representation of disabled people.
30+ schools in North America, but I was hoping to earn the opportunity to compete at the 2010 Youth Olympic Games in Singapore. The
Flipping through those pages, I didn’t see anyone with a scar, a protective brace, a mobility aid, or any stories about invisible illness
present, to the point where I believed it was an expected result of frequently pushing one’s body to
news was earth-shattering.
and disability. It was alienating.
The tumor was within the vertebral
The absence of visibility in fashion,
its limit. This mindset stemmed from my childhood, when I was an elite gymnast for many years, and shaped my track and field career as
body and very vascular, so some risks came with securing a tissue sample, including paralysis. Even as I write this now, I am still
art, and pop-culture is indicative of the general attitude that society has both institutionally and socially regarding disabled people-that we
a young adult. When I started having back pain while training for
recovering from the shock that “back pain” turned into potential
don’t belong. As an athlete and as an able-bodied person formerly,
Being an athlete from a very young age, some element of pain or discomfort was almost always
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Photographer Brianne Burnell | Stylist Director Meghan Erin | Scarf Designers Burnell & Erin | Model Rachel Romu
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role models were all around, and to
to finding work - the list is endless.
fashion, clothing and footwear, and
many, I was one; that changed almost immediately when I found myself fighting to survive instead of fighting for the top spot on the
A major part of why visibility is important is that society views disabled people as less capable
accessories which are not only flattering but aid in the wearer’s comfort or quality of life. Fashion that is adaptive to every body type,
podium. It is tough to find disabled voices anywhere remotely mainstream, especially when it comes to being young and disabled.
and desirable than our able-bodied counterparts. I get questioned more about my disability than I am about the accommodations I need. Even
no matter their ability-Placement of pockets, fabric choices, closure methods, and body support (particularly in footwear and
Over a year ago, I began modeling because I wanted to create images I wish I could have seen while going
just going to a party can result in me feeling like a case study. Both our experiences and existence are
undergarments) are all aspects of design that can and should have the disability in mind.
through these changes. At the same time, I started fading from memories and family photographs. I wanted to see the body I wasn’t connecting with in a way that I can feel proud.
simultaneously erased as a consequence of the absence of visibility beyond what able-bodied people view as ‘inspiring.'
Fashion Needs to See ‘Disabled’ Bodies Beside Abled Bodies
My role in fashion is adversarial, much like my role as a Team Canada jumper with a secret spinal tumor from the rural hockey town of Thunder Bay. The elephant in the room is the cane in my hand, and the awkwardness compounded by the notion that my rare disease is something almost nobody has heard. I expect everyone to say 'No' as soon as I walk in and feel that I often have to prove my capabilities, or regarded as just a fluke, even. I know I have to be twice as skilled as any able-bodied person I’m
Fashion, it is wonderful in a way that for a moment, I can embody a hyperbolic expression of a part of myself. My cane feels regal on the runway, contrary to it being a target on my back. On the other hand, fashion often leads to people coopting stories that they’ve never experienced, such as when Kylie Jenner modeled in a wheelchair. Disabilities and mobility aids are treated as fashion accessories.
The Agent of Change
I hope my involvement in fashion inspires designers to not only get on board with disability visibility but to think about the things that make their designs wearable and pragmatic for people with different needs. I want to stimulate the fashion industry in its grand scheme of things to foster community and a positive disabled identity in the society. It’s important for the image of disability to be one that ablebodied folks understand, but not one designed specifically *for* ablebodied folks. Representation is about ‘us,' the folks needing it, not about the folks who have been ignoring it thus far. People with disabilities make up nearly 20 percent of North America’s population. If disabled folks were to
Sometimes it helps me cope with some of the aids I use, but that does not mean that able-bodied
comparable to in the industry for half of the recognition.
be recognized as a minority group, we would make up the largest portion.
people should “play” at disabled. Disability is not something that can be ‘put on’ to make a statement and
There is also a huge misconception that people with disabilities don’t participate in fashion and that we
To rethink disability; it is not something abnormal but rather a
taken off at the end of the day. For many, like myself, disability can impact every aspect of one’s life;
don’t need it. But fashion is about creativity, and I believe that with creation comes innovation (or at
variation of the human condition. Redefine the perceptions and Beauty. Unleash the potential for
from preparing food, to leaving the house, keeping the house in order,
least it should). I want the industry to recognize the need to design
all! R.R.
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Voice
Sustainability is the future of fashion
FORWARD Interviews Kelly Drennan, Founding Executive Director of Fashion Takes Action “Sustainability in the Fashion Industry� is a topical subject which is very much on the radar given that second to oil, fashion is the most polluting industry in the world. Despite the growing attention of the fashion industry to sustainability and ethical production practices, we still have many miles to ahead to travel. As Canada's only non-profit fashion industry organization focused on sustainability, Fashion Takes Action (FTA) is committed to supporting the sustainable fashion movement in our own country, and globally. FORWARD caught up with Founding Executive Director Kelly Drennan to discuss the changing attitudes towards sustainable fashion; on how it is the future; the importance of celebrating progress;
FW What about ethical beauty? KD We are thrilled to partner with Pure & Simple [P&S] in our event because we know that their values align with ours. [P&S] make sure that all their products are free from toxic chemical and [free from] ingredients that are harmful to human health and [as well as harmful] to the environment during the production. Partnering with them was a great fit for an event like Fashion Forward because it ensured that our models were truly sustainable on the runway.
contributing to the environment, I [organized] the Green Gala in 2007. I realized that there was a real gap from an industry association perspective. Even though we have organizations such as Fashion Group International, Toronto Fashion Incubator, Fashion Design Council of Canada, and Canadian Apparel Federation, none of them were paying attention to the sustainability movement. Over time, all of those reasons factored into starting FTA. FW How can the industry balance the desirability of design with the responsibility of production?
FW How did you get interested in this quest of eco-conscious fashion specifically?
KD From an industry perspective, we need to do away with the stereotypes around sustainable models. Thankfully we have designers like Stella McCartney or
FORWARD [FW] What is Ethical/ Sustainable Fashion?
KD Just about ten years ago working in Fashion as PR, Communications, and Events, I saw much excess in waste and frivolity
celebrities like Livia Firth who is working with designers on their Green Carpet Challenge. [She is] dressing the celebrities for red
KELLY DRENNAN [KD] The way we look at it at FTA is locally made,
for something that was so shortlived. Around that time I saw the film An Inconvenient Truth by
carpets, wearing ball gowns made out of sustainable materials. The stereotypes are starting to change.
and tips to be ethically responsible.
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organic wool, tensile, and natural dyes. Zero waste.
or otherwise fair-made. Slow [being of a smaller production with more attention to detail, and quality pieces], upcycled, second-hand or
Algore. As a mother of two little girls, I had to question the kind of planet we are creating for them.
vintage. Using sustainable fabrics like organic cotton, hemp silk,
To [encourage] people to wake up to how the fashion industry is
FTA always say that it has to be about the fashion first. You shouldn't look at a garment and know that it is "made sustainably." That is an insult to the designer and
Founding Executive Director Kelly Drannan and Program Director Sarah Peel of Fashion Takes Action, photographed by Olga Hutsul.
an insult to the garment. Make fashion accessible, engaging, stylish, on-trend, and fun. Once customers are attracted for all those reasons, that's when you tell the [behind the scene] stories - the
FW May you describe the milestones of FTA?
sustainability piece on how, where and who made it.
Initially, there was not an event attached to it but we still engaged public through an online vote. We
(WEAR) in its fourth year [coming up on November 13th, 14th in Toronto] is a significant milestone
As a consumer, we need to be mindful of the quantity and the quality of our purchases. Get the fun [of fashion] by buying resale, or
put it on the shelf for a while and brought it back in 2016 as a curated collective fashion show. This year, we reintroduced the award. It is
too because we are filling this gap of sustainable fashion merged with business and corporate responsibilities. There is no
at a clothing swap. “There are fun ways to incorporate sustainability into your wardrobe without constantly having to be consuming and buying new stuff.�
interesting that in the six years that we parked it nobody else came forward. Although we have Canadian Arts and Fashion Awards (CAFA), it is surprising that there is not a category for sustainability. We
conference like it in North America.
KD Within the last ten years, we have done a lot. We launched the Design Forward Award in 2010.
brought it back because these designers should be celebrated for their dedication and commended for making a positive change. World Ethical Apparel Roundtable
We are proud of WEAR because it brings together the entire fashion industry, from small designers and academic starts up through to the
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large corporate apparel brands and retailers, supply chain experts, NGO, government officials, and
grades 4 to 12. Currently, we are on eight school boards in Ontario and growing. We are looking to expand
need to take responsibility for the [number and quality of] clothes we are purchasing. We often talk about
policy makers. So everybody is there hearing global best practices and coming together to work for solutions and ideas for real-time
across the country.
the seven R's of fashion; beyond reduce, reuse, recycle, we have rent, repair, repurpose, and research.
FW Define responsibility in fashion.
implementation. We also have a youth school program too. Four years ago we
KD It is all connected. Regarding industry, it is about
More importantly, I think the "end of life" of a garment is something we need to know more about as
realized that despite all our public speaking and media interviews, as a consumer it is tough to change
taking responsibility for the footprint of clothing produced; to examine the entire supply chain to ensure
consumers. Even those who are environmentally responsible have no idea when they are done with
our behavior. We realized that youth is where we needed to focus, to reach them before they are consumers, and to have them grow up with this understanding of the way they are experiencing their clothing and purchasing habits!
responsibility. Responsibility is tied in with sustainability, but it means that brands and designers are accountable.
their clothing. They think it needs to go in the garbage. Not true! The reality is every single thing can be reused, somehow.
In terms of consumers, it comes down to [the way in which] they reduce, reuse, recycle. Reduce is probably the least acknowledged when it is the most important. We
FW How has the sustainable fashion evolved in the last five years?
My clothes, My world was developed as a full day program for
KD In last five years; I have
Editor-in-Chief and Co-Founder Ugyen Wangmo of FORWARD Fashion Toronto with Founding Executive Director Kelly Drannan of Fashion Takes Action, photographed by Olga Hutsul.
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changed. We have changed. In the beginning, we were more of
KD It has to be fashion[able], wearable, still be on top of the trend and have design skills. You still
Village twice a month, especially for my kids. I tend to buy at Inland's allCanadian pop-up event that
an activist; very finger-pointing and calling out the brand. Then the brands started to make some changes. What we need to be
need to go to schools for fashion design. That is why for the Design Forward Award, we look at both the aesthetic and the sustainability of
happens twice a year, [where] I usually save up and purchase a couple of pieces. I frequent the Value Village, Common Sort, and
doing - and this is where we have changed our tune in the last five years - is to celebrate progress over perfection. To see notable brands
design.
The Kind Exchange. I don't ever really go too high-end with vintage.
In the next phase, we are considering the business acumen
When it comes to a dressier event, I
engaged over the last five years has been a significant change. There are lots of groups that are
too. We don't want to give a fifty thousand dollar prize to a designer who is not ready [to properly invest
will have something from our members to wear. I will admit, I have shopped the Conscious
popping up and doing things in the same spirit. We don't feel alone anymore! Finally, people recognize that sustainable fashion is not just a trend. It is not going away; this is the future of fashion!
the money]. It is the combination [of] bringing that sustainability in as a pillar but not letting the design, style, and the fashion forward-ness be diminished or sacrificed in the name of the ethics.
Exclusive Collection [of H&M]. The dress (an organic silk) I wore at Design Forward [semi-finalist event] was from H&M.
FW Where do you see the future of sustainable fashion going?
FW Jumping on to a different tone of the question, may you tell me the story of the dress you are wearing today?
KD I think we are close to the tipping point. Innovation and technology will be enormous regarding the creation of efficiency and raising awareness of the issues. The merge of fashion with
As for clothing swaps, I usually either host one or attend at least one a year. [FTA is] going to do one in September to get ready for the fall wardrobe!
KD This floral summer dress is originally from Anthropologie; it is one of those great finds from a clothing swap.
science and technology is the future! I think that the word sustainable will not exist. It will [simply] be fashion. Again, it comes down to celebrating the progress.
FW As a sustainable fashion goto expert, may you let us in on your favorite place to shop?
Brands who do not change will not exist in five or ten years because the customers are just getting that
KD That is a tough one. I do not shop as much as I used to (obviously), now that I am much
much more savvy and invested. Especially the Millenials, they want to know who made everything. FW Do you have any advice to give to the new generation of
more aware [of the environmental impact of fashion]. If I had the budget to shop, I honestly buy a lot of second-hand and vintage [apparel]. But there is not one particular place. Although - not
sustainable designers?
going to lie - I probably buy at Value
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Voice
Photographer Olga Hutsul @olgahutsulphotography
Pantea
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P
lus size is not about size anymore; it is about fashion. “It has taken forever for women of bigger sizes to [actually] be seen because the industry has never cared to let it go anywhere!” Pantea For the fall Comme des Garçons collection, Rei Kawakubo sent models down the pink runway in “the future of silhouette” with round curves, contorted, asymmetrical, plus-size figures.
As we choose to interpret this ever enigmatic abstract of Kawakubo -
inspiration is Ashley Graham; she never lets anyone just walk over
Body positivity has grown a lot these past years; the meaning only
as the future of fashion that is beyond the current conviction of beauty, shape, and size - we take the subject of “plus size” further to
her. That’s the only way to play this game. Straight to your goal, nothing to get in your way. Go hard or go home.
became apparent to me once I started to embrace it for myself. To love oneself, regardless of anyone’s opinion. That’s all. To share your
Pantea to fathom the obvious interpretation. FORWARD (FW) Who is Pantea? Pantea (PT) I am a model, recording artist, actress, body advocate, and mental health advocate. I won’t take “no” for an answer; I won’t stop pushing for the change I know is right! FW How did Pantea become a fashion phenomenon? PT I started as a baby in Vancouver B.C., doing commercials, pageants, photo shoots, and later became to be known as the “black haired Shirley Temple.” I moved to Washington D.C. and continued modeling as I began my music and singing career.
I started the body positive and body confidence movement #LuckyToBeCurvy to inspire people to share their love and confidence
love for your body - confidence exuding from you, and embracing the positive. For a long time, body positivity used
"That’s the only way to play this game. Straight to your goal, n hing to get in your way. Go hard or go home." in their bodies. It was very well received and saw over four thousand re-posts on Instagram, and continues to grow! I’m so happy that even ONE person was able to share their love and confidence. It means the world to me. FW What is your take on body
to equate with false empowerment in society. The portrayal of body positivity in society and pop culture has lead to these falsified facts. Now, it has completely shifted. It has progressed to what it was truly meant to decipher: love for our body & confidence we had all along!
positivity? FW What is your take on diversity
For the longest time I had been inspired by Brooke Shields; she just always spoke to me. At a time when I used to HATE my eyebrows, she made me feel confident. As a young child, I looked up to her as a model and as a person. Another
PT Body positivity means many things to me. From being bullied as a child to learning self-acceptance of my body, the path that I’ve come along has been long and hard. Without [developing] body positivity, I don’t think I would have made it.
and progression in the fashion industry? PT It’s gotten much better from what it used to be, trust me. There was a lack of models & celebrities that came from a multiracial
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background such as myself. That would go double for anyone that was curvy, plus sized, or even close
Sizing for certain brands are ridiculous! I’ve gone into stores claiming that something is XL & my
to looking a size 14. After a decade of being in the fashion industry (five years in Canada and another five in America), I can say that it has
'size 6' friend can’t get into it. Sometimes they oversize things to make up for the lack of having larger sizes. I shouldn’t have a t-
grown, rather rapidly in the recent times. You now have plus size brands like Torrid included in the NYFW 2018 for the first time. Size
shirt hanging off my shoulders like a hefty bag! They need to start using more real models instead of
inclusive brands and designers are popping up everywhere! If it keeps advancing at this pace, we might [actually] see [all size] inclusion across the board. FW What is your opinion on size and sizing? PT Gorgeous, Beautiful, Breathtaking, AMAZING. I don’t like to use specific words, but 'curvy' is a go-to, for my self. Industry standards usually have straight size at 00-4, where in between can mean 4-8, plus size
FW ...On body confidence? PT Body confidence is all in you from the start; it’s about reaching into yourself and realizing that it was there all along.
"Sizing for certain brands are ridiculous!" padding them, or at least have it so that sizing can be all around. I can’t wait for the day when it is no longer shoved aside; not ashamed to ask for the plus size section, or be snubbed to the back of the store for some tiny section that carries barely any inventory or variety in styles.
"The last place you want to be ostracized is when you’re trying to find some cl hing."
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It is either “someone looks as if they’re on a hunger strike” or “someone needs to eat less.”
would be anything from size 8 and up. These all are standards that were set into place to exclude certain parties from having to participate in donning their clothing
FW What are your thoughts... on body shaming?
or even modeling.
harassed just as bad as curvy ones.
PT Body shaming happens on both spectrums; petite people can get
FW ...on self-love? PT Self-love is something everyone should practice. To take the time just to say, “Hey I look beautiful today!” It could be something about just loving the way your lips are, or how you always loved being tall. It’s about you, don’t feel like you can’t take a break to appreciate yourself. FW ...on the portrayal of body positivity by media and society? PT Terrible. I can’t turn on a movie, tv-show, or commercial without someone making a satire on body positivity. Only recently has the media portrayed more positive notions on body positivity. Media has never failed to make it seem like it is a joke. I’ve gone to castings where I had to walk right out, after learning that directors were only looking for curvy women to make a
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Photographer Olga Hutsul @olgahutsulphotography
"I won’t take “no” for an answer; I won’t stop pushing for the change I know is right!"
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satire out of the “fact.”
PT I'm not sure what it pertains to, but I’ve had people explain that a “real woman” is a size 6 with large
positive and negative aspects of 'plus size' fashion industry?
breasts, long hair, and tiny waist. These are norms that society has set in the past to view women solely as sexual objects leading to the
PT I’ve had so many people who have shown so much love and support over the years. I watch the community just embrace, empower,
mainstream retailers, 'without the label.' You don’t need to single out sizes and make people feel excluded. Life does that to you
thought pattern still emulated today.
and help each other, at any chance! That makes it so amazing for me.
[I believe that] a 'real woman,' is someone who is proud, confident,
However, the lack of multiracial,
occasionally, and the last place you want to be ostracized is when
and always herself regardless of what anyone thinks.
Persons of Color, Middle Eastern, and Asian models is still a concern.
FW ...on the direction the industry is heading? PT As I was saying, I’m hoping to see inclusion across the board by
"I’ve had so many people who have shown so much love and support over the years. I watch the community just embrace, empower, and help each her, at any chance! That makes it so amazing for me." you’re trying to find some clothing. Petite, in between, curvy, they all are struggling to find something that fits properly. I’ve put on plus size clothing that wouldn’t even go past my calf. Friends of mine who are petite can’t find an article of clothing that will fit without looking like they had borrowed it from their older siblings. There needs to be more attention to detail as far as different shapes and sizes go. You can be
FW May you comment on the current plus-sized fashion industry? PT Plus sized fashion was never something that the industry cared for; it is only recently that it has become a niche that fashion can bank on. The industry [is beginning to] realize that it is more than just money; it is about the talented and gorgeous plus sized women who want [even more] amazing fashion
[Media is] padding thinner plussized models instead of seeking models of that size. I have had casting directors tell me how my butt and breasts are too big or that I’m not European enough. There’s always going to be a bad side with the good, but the positive has overwhelmed the negative. That is for sure! The obsession with size comes from our environment, family,
curvy and have smaller hips or breasts, or be petite with larger breasts and hips. One size does not
[options]. It has taken forever for women of
friends, school. It can be any situation and tends to lead to why you or others are so obsessed with
fit all.
bigger sizes to [really] be seen
size. It’s the means of being "perfect".
FW In your words, what does the
because the fashion industry has never cared to let it go anywhere!
term “real woman" mean? FW In your opinion, what are the
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Social Report
DivaGirl is a lifestyle community that educates and empowers women. Through runways, seminars, conferences, and webinars, DivaGirl has redefined what it means to be a “Diva.� Visit their website at community.divagirl-inc.com to view upcoming events and to learn about joining the tribe!
Runway
The Top
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Trends
Photography by Jonathan Hooper @jonatha nmhoope r
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Sara Umar
Bold Lace Syrie
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R
Haunts Fashion
Sarah Splinter
Sara Umar
R
omance
Sarah Splinter
F o l k Fantasy
Sara Umar
Haunts Fashion
Steven Lajambe Vanika
Kabs Boutique
Kabs Boutique
Modern
Tailor
ing
Bones & Busk
Rebecca Rowe
Fred & Bean
Odrea
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Runway
Designer
Stand Outs
Photography by Jonathan Hooper
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@jonatha nmhooper
SS tt ee vv ee nn LL aa jj aa m m bb ee
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Padina Bondar
X u e L i a n g
Runway
Photographer Gabriel Di Sante @gadfphotography | Model Sabina Pasha | Designer Seasonz Toronto
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Fashion Against Cancer With their love of fashion, entrepreneurial spirits and humanitarian ideals, Nayla and Sheri Hammoud, the Co-Founders of
did it ensure variety in the show for the supporters, but it also allowed for a mixture of talents and designers to be
Fashion Against Cancer, envisioned an annual high-profile fashion show to raise cancer awareness and contribute to local fundraising efforts. More specifically,
inspired by each other.
Fashion Against Cancer (FAC) aims to bring keen attention to the impacts of cancer as a life-threatening disease to benefit local non-profit organizations that advocate for and serve those affected by cancer. Furthermore, it is a platform for new and established designers to show their designs within a culturally conscious fashion event with a cause.
hopes to continue to take their service across Canada and eventually around the world.
Through amazing line up of artists, celebrity appearances, silent auction and great music, FAC raises funds and awareness for cancer patients and research, both locally and across the country. This year, Fashion Against Cancer, in sponsorship by Toronto Fashion Academy, introduced its event to Toronto on July 7 held at Streetcar Crowsnest Theatre to support Childhood Cancer Canada.
As the shows continue to grow and attract bigger fashion names each year, FAC
“Throughout our journey with FAC, we have been introduced to people who are fighting a huge battle. Whether it is cancer-related or any other illness, their optimism, and strength are what truly inspires us and keeps us motivated.” Case in point is the story of two extraordinary girls who attended and spoke at their annual showcase this past July. Helena, 11 years old, who is a survivor of Leukemia and Jadyn, 13 years old, who is currently battling brain cancer, were both brave enough to share their story on how cancer has affected them both. With the success of the recent show in Toronto, the future looks bright for FAC.
The show included the likes of Candace
“Knowing that, together, we can make a difference simply by doing what we love;
Daniela, Joao Paulo Guedes, Koda Nivoli, Seasonz, Boto Swimwear, Sensual Chic Lingerie & Swimwear, The Shop,
the two worlds, fashion, and philanthropy was brought together to create a movement that will be remembered for
Yaya & Co and Neya Couture. By having a mix of new as well as established
years to come,” Nayla Hammoud, CoFounder of Fashion Against Cancer.
designs walk the same runway, not only
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Madisson F., Model
Ishan Riley, Backstage Coordinator
The People That Make It All Possible
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Models Laverne A. & Nikita H. & Sabina P. | Designer Seasonz Toronto | Photographer Gabriel Di Sante @gadfphotography
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Model Sarah S. in Neya Couture Eco Couture by Elina Ten
Khiyla Aynne modeling her own line
Model Laverne A. in Neya Couture
Model Madisson S. in Neya Couture | Photographer Gabriel Di Sante @gadfphotography
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Runway presents
Canada's first
Plus Size Runway Show Images provided by Malia Indigo The Plus @maliaindigotheplus
Photographer Olga Hutsul @olgahutsulphotography
Suzy Q
Elle Made Well
Plus Marche
Sexyplus Clothing
For its first run, Canada's first Plus Show runway event hosted by Malia Indigo was an impressive hit! At the red carpet entrance to The Addisons Residence on July 29th, a handsome man greeted FORWARD and escorted us to the patio which hosted a sea of colour while the enthusiastic audience mingled with the models pre-show. Electric blue penetrated the crowd with glimpses of oranges, reds, and greens. From jeans to formal dresses, from sneakers to stilettos, the city's best dressed flowed from vendor tables to their patio furnished seats, as the bar staff remained alert and ready to serve in their geometrically decorated spaces. Potted silver maple trees lined the runway floor of grass carpet. It was an endearing location where the sun played peekaboo through the white wooden lattice, holding unique hanging lights. The refreshing outdoor setting perfectly reflected the history that was to be made in just moments. The event began with Caterina Moda strutting the runway in a comfortably chic pencil skirt, and cotton top combination pulled together with a waist belt, all by Elle Made Well. As the models walked the runway with confidence in Suzy Q, Pursed Boutique, Sexyplus Clothing, Plus Marche, and Elle Made Well, model Kay Weston stood out as clearly having the most fun on the sunlit runway. Other models were a sight to behold nonetheless with gorgeous natural hair and a range of colours and fabrics. From business appropriate to night-out looks, the audience enjoyed the classic flattery of cleavage, waist ties, and half sleeves that don the bodies of us over a size 12. The runway ended with a walk from one of the models named Cathy who proudly marched the runway with a sash that read "Cancer Survivor" from Stike Out Cancer, while hostess Kat Leonard informed the audience that a portion of ticket sales would be supporting the cause. Inspiring speeches by self-establish women followed, full of passion and determination.
Pursed Boutquie
Suzy Q
Runway P h o t o g r a p h e r J a h t h a n e W a l w y n - B e n t @ y b g w a c
Celebrating the progress of
C a n a d a' s Sustainable Fa s h i o n O m i W o o d s
N o é m i a h
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S t e v i e C r o w n e
J e n n i f e r G l a s g o w D e s i g n
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T J I n d i g o C l o t h i n g
P e g g y S u e C o l l e c t i o n
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B r o w y n S e i e r
E l i z a F a u l k e r
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L i s a A v i v a
T r i a r c h y A t e l i e r D e n i m
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Runway
Modesty Glows on the Runway By Haafizah Khaderoo, on behalf of the International Modest Fashion and Design Festival (IMFDF)
Eman Idil
There are over 7 billion people living in this world. Each person has a life to live, a passion, a story. I want to be the one who can help people share their stories to inspire others in any way that it can. My name is Haafizah Khaderoo, a student journalist at the University of GuelphHumber.
Modesty is associated with many ideas, however; it doesn’t need to mean a lack of style. The International Modest Fashion and Design Festival (IMFDF) highlights chic, modest fashion on the runway and celebrates women-led businesses. Women of all races and body types walk this runway while international vendors showcase their unique products. The festival features workshops addressing topics vital to entrepreneurs and women, including how to start your own business and sustainable practices in fashion. This year marked the IMFDF’S fourth annual event. “In our fourth consecutive year, we can review many accomplishments of
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modest fashion in mainstream shows and media. Modest fashion is no longer about a movement; it is about standing out,” says festival director Fatima Beg. This year’s theme is GLOW. According to Beg, GLOW reflects many aspects that relate to the evolution of the festival and modest fashion being in the spotlight. “We are finally sharing mainstream platforms and building a ton of recognition. There have been countless new players introduced to the arena, both big and small. [Even corporate] brands like Nike and Gap want a piece of the modest fashion market,” says Beg. Omina Abdorbo, co-partner of NeicyShop says, “It just goes to show that we are normal people at the end of the day. There are negative tones, but
there are also positive tones. We are starting to have more confidence. I’m happy to see more hijabis, more Muslims in the media industry and positivity in the community.” Every year since the festival started, influential bloggers are presented as special guests. Some of which include beauty bloggers Habiba Da Silva and Nura Afia. This year, featured special guest was popular blogger Chinutay. “Other bloggers that I am connected with drew me to the festival. This [year] was my first year [in attendence], and I am inspired! I met many creative and inspirational women. This event is [both] moving and motivating, especially if you don’t know where to put your feet. IMFDF gives women a sense of community and confidence while educating them on business,” says Chinutay.
Beg says the networking potential for attendees is vast, and IMFDF encourages women to create genuine relationships and support each other through empowerment. “It’s inspiring seeing several women doing the same thing; hustling and being business owners. Just being in a space where people look like you and have similar goals, this is why I keep coming back to IMFDF,” says Abdorbo.
Juwriya Laki-Studio
IMFDF also hosts a bazaar style market for modest fashion and design businesses to set up shop. Attendees are able to make purchases and become familiar with brands face to face. “As Muslim women, it’s hard to find clothes that actually covers up; we have to search hard for it. We thought why not start [our own] business because women out there have the same issues as us,” said Jameelah Masaed, co-owner of New York-based Modest Chic Collective.
Laki-Studio
Modernnisa
Beg says there are many products geared towards the modest fashion so now it is about who is standing out – who ‘glows.’ That being said, Masaed says the most important part [of this event and movement] is about being true to oneself. “Just be yourself. Modesty is a lifestyle, it is who you are as a person, and there is no need to be ashamed of it. With modest fashion, you can be who you are; you can be fashionable even as a Muslim," says Masaed.
Modernnisa
The Modest Aesthetic By Aimon Syeda
Article and photos by Haafizah Khaderoo, provided by IMFDF. Sources available on page 199.
You're Invited Looking for inspiration? The Modern Bride Wedding Show will provide you with the experts that can assist in planning the wedding of your dreams.
Bringing you amazing exhibitors ranging from expert consultants and photographers to decor and cake designers and an exclusive fashion show, showcasing the latest bridal fashion trends, the Modern Bride Wedding Show will bring you everything you could need or want!
An exclusive Fashion Show showcasing the latest exquisite bridal gowns, evening dresses, tuxedos and accessories
Is your event between December 21st & March 19th? Send us your event poster or invitation before
Saturday, November 11th to be featured in Issue 2!
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Miscellanious
Sources: Why Cotton is Bad by Jason Spitoski 1. http://wwf.panda.org/about_our_earth/about_freshwater/ freshwater_problems/thirsty_crops/cotton/ 2. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aral_Sea 3. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aralkum_Desert 4. https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/ environmental/monoculture-gardening.htm 5. http://www.fmccrop.com/grower/Crops/Cotton.aspx 6. https://rodaleinstitute.org/chemical-cotton/ 7. http://www.deltafarmpress.com/management/cotton-fertilizershappy-medium 8. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bt_cotton#History 9. https://campaign.worldvision.com.au/wp-content/uploads/ 2013/04/Forced-and-child-labour-in-the-cotton-industry-factsheet.pdf 10. http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/south_asia/2164107.stm 11. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ Environmental_impact_of_pesticides 12. https://farm.ewg.org/progdetail.php? fips=00000&progcode=cotton&regionname=theUnitedStates 13. http://www.deltafarmpress.com/cotton/world-cotton-subsidiesestimated-65-billion-last-year 14. http://articles.latimes.com/2002/jun/10/local/me-subsidy10 15. https://www.opensecrets.org/lobby/indusclient.php? id=A07&year=2016 16. https://ota.com/sites/default/files/indexed_files/Organic-CottonFacts.pdf 17. http://www.lenzing.com/sites/botanicprinciples/website/ sustainability03.htm 18. https://www.lanius.com/en/brand/textile-guide/tencel 19. http://www.indiaenvironmentportal.org.in/node/20202/ 20. http://www.bamboocentral.org/shareinrepair/faq.htm Credits: Mont Pellier Thread x Thread Challenge 1. Designer Jon Riosa @jonriosa | Hair Stylist Brodi Montrose @brodi | Makeup Artist Kevin McVicar @excuseher_beauty | Model Michaela Zinmeister @michaela_zinsmeister @StruttCentral
Lesley Spencer @whosly | Model Katrina Roebuck @katrinaroebuckmodel 9. Designer Peggy Sue Collection @peggysuecollection | Hair Stylist Brianna Cook @bribreezerc | Model Lauryn Mills @laurynamills @struttcentral 10. Designer Isabella & Maria Rubio of Modatelos @modatelos | Hair Stylist Taylor Smits @smitties | Model Lainey Moser @laineymoser @struttcentral 11. Kim Egwuen of 83.Studio @83.studio | Hair Stylist Talyor Smits | Model Aerin Venema @plutinomodels 12. Designer Tanushree Pande of House of Poplyn @house.of.poplyn | Hair Stylist Jocelyn Hayes @jocelyn3103 @acquasalon | Model Gabrielle Maynard @gabriellemaynard @struttcentral 13. Designer Kablawi of Kabs Boutique @kabs81 | Makeup Artist Kristjan Hayden @kristjanhayden | Hairstylist Taylor Dubois @tayloredubois | Model Sydney Mills @sydneymills1 @plutinomodels 14. Designer Courtney Reid @rice.x | Makeup Artist Kevin McVicar @excuseher_beauty | Simone @simone_v_ @bnmmodels Sources: International Modest Fashion & Design Festival 1. Omnia Abdorbo, interviewed on Saturday August 26th 2017, at https://www.facebook.com/neicyshop/posts/10154001877271123 & NeicyShop at https://www.neicyshop.com/ & https:// www.instagram.com/p/BYQ3o3-h5f5/ 2. Fatima Beg, interviewed weeks before show, at https:// ca.linkedin.com/in/fatima-beg-5963954a 3. Manal Abdul aka Chinutay, interviewed on Saturday August 26th 2017, at https://www.youtube.com/user/chinutay/videos & https:// www.instagram.com/p/BYQ_VKTFzce/?taken-by=chinutay 4. Jameelah Masaed, interviewed on Saturday August 26th 2017, at https://www.linkedin.com/in/jameelah-masaed-298b82121/ & Modest Chic Collective at http://www.modestchicbox.com/ 5. Nateka Pitter, interviewed weeks before show, at http:// www.imfdf.ca/about-----------------------------------.html Sources: Fur 1. Fur is Green, online
2. Designer Ali Haider @imhaider | Hair Stylists Brando Nguyen @nguyen.brando & Gabriel Rojas @gabohernandezrojas | Model
2. Dr Knud Heller, Institute of Population Biology, University of Copenhagen, June 1993 via Fur is Green
Chanel Simard @ _chanelsimard_ @struttcentral 3. Designer Vanessa Kiraly of Vanika Design @vanessakiraly |
3. Read: NFACC and their Code for Farming Mink 4. Read: Trapping Regulations from the Fur Institute of Canada via
Hair Stylist Brodi | Model Anastasia @zagrebinaa @iland 4. Designer Louise Campbell @godesignscanada | Hair Stylist Rachel Nucci @newchzz | Model Kateryna Sysoieva @s.kateryna @StruttCentral 5. Designer Mary Foret | Hair Stylist Teija Tucker @teijatucker @acquasalon | Model Matisse Gurdulic @matisseburdon @plutinomodels 6. Designer Irina Bikeeva @irinabikeevafashion | Hair Stylist Rachel Swan @swannyray | Model Riley Young @rileyvyoung @plutinomodels 7. Designer Luis Padilla @luis_padilla_design | Hair Stylist Samantha Nyce @samantha_nyce | Model Layla Fraidon @laylafraidon @bnmmodels 8. Designer Rebecca Rowe of Rowes Fashion @rowes_fashion | Makeup Artist Hassan Haque @makeupbyhassan | Hair Stylist
Fur.ca 5. Links for the studies mentioned are available on the website of Fur Free Alliance under Environment and Health 6. https://doi.org/10.1596/1813-9450-1431 7. Document titled The Not-So-Mad Hatter: Occupational Hazards of Mercury 8. Acadia Center for Estuarine Research Acadia University Wolfville Nova Scotia 9. Surname withheld 10. 2005 11. We Are Fur, online 12. Global News, March 2017
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We want you to be a part of
Issue 2! This city is your city, and whether you are a hard working talent in the local fashion industry or a casual lover of style, you are a part of the FORWARD Magazine community. For information, inquiries, or for the media kit, please visit our website www.ForwardFashionToronto.com or email contact@forwardfashiontoronto.com
Deadlines Concept* - Oct 28 Article - Nov 4 Editorial - Nov 11 Event - Nov 11 *concept submission required for all contributions
Preorder Issue 2 today available December 21
Photographer & Director Connor Remus @connorremusphotography | Model Rachel Romu @rachelromu