CHAPTER 2 SELECTING AND PREPARING FABRICS

One of the greatest joys of sewing your own clothes is selecting the fabrics and creatively pairing them with different pattern styles. Not only is it enjoyable, but it is also beneficial in the long run to spend a little time choosing the best piece of material for your project and properly preparing it for the sewing process. It is important to consider all the design elements of your project, and most pattern envelopes include fabric suggestions. You will find that your finished garments are more flattering when the weight and type of fabric coordinate with the pattern. A medium-weight twill or gabardine makes up into a nice skirt or pants, while a softer and silky cotton is better for a blouse and a jersey knit drapes nicely for a dress. Chose fabrics that work well for your body type by selecting colors and designs that will complement your figure and complexion.

Once you have made your fabric purchase, the next step is to prepare your fabric prior to cutting it. You may need to wash and pre-shrink the fabric unless the label indicates it is already pre-shrunk. Take it to a dry cleaner if the material is non-washable, such as wool.

Straightening the fabric is another important preparatory step. Sometimes fabric is stretched out of shape prior to being placed on the bolt or if it was not cut on the true grain—that is, with the lengthwise and crosswise threads at right angles to each other. In general, natural fibers are more easily cut on the true grain than synthetics and are also easier to adjust, even if they are slightly off. Synthetic fabrics, and those that are a mixture, may need more straightening; however, both can be adjusted by following the instructions within this chapter for aligning the crosswise, lengthwise, or selvage, edges. These straightening techniques can help correct issues that may keep the finished garment from fitting properly or hanging evenly.

Types of Fibers

There are four types of fibers: natural, manufactured, synthetic, and other minor miscellaneous types.

Naturally occurring fibers include cotton, linen, flax, wool (including any form of animal hair, even human hair, not just from sheep), and various other minor novelty fibers like hemp and spun corn. You can pick up natural fibers and spin them right into a yarn.

Manufactured fibers, such as rayon and acetate, are derived from cellulose and protein. Many people consider rayon a natural fiber, but it is not. Rayon was the first manufactured fiber in the United States; it was developed in 1911 to mimic the costly silk fabrics of the time. It is spun from naturally occurring polymers to replicate a natural fiber.

Synthetic, or man-made, fibers could take up a whole book alone and include many types and varieties. New fibers are being developed all the time. Some well-known and often-used synthetics are polyester, acrylic, and nylon. This category includes microfibers, which are “everything fibers” that are blends of other synthetics.

Special use fibers are less common, but people may be surprised to learn that they may encounter them daily. Fibers like rubber are used where Spandex can be used. Metal, such as stainless steel, is used in carpets. Other metals, such as silver and gold, are woven into fabrics. New and innovative uses for fibers are being developed every day.