CHAPTER 4 SEWING CLASSIC GARMENTS

Before attempting to learn how to assemble the smaller details of a garment as shown in Chapter 6—the darts, zippers, pleats, pockets, etc.—you should first understand the correct order in which to sew these different details, whether it is for a dress, shirt, blouse, skirt, or pants (pants are featured in detail in Chapter 5). You can generalize the assembly sequence for these classic garments to most any pattern you will choose to sew.

Think of sewing garments together by first breaking them down into specific components. A component is an area of the garment such as a sleeve, bodice front, bodice back, or collar area. You should sew and apply any detail to these smaller areas before attaching them to another area. The assembly sequence is always a logical one. For example, the body section of a blouse is fitted and sewn before the sleeve is attached, otherwise the armhole in which the sleeve is inserted might not have the proper dimensions. Similarly, buttonholes and buttons are positioned after the garment is completed to ensure the closures will be smooth and neat.

If you have chosen the right size pattern (pages 72-74) and adjusted it properly for your figure, including polishing the fit with a muslin (pages 91-94), you should experience few fitting problems during the final assembly, and the result should be a finished garment that hangs properly and fits perfectly.

A Note about Step-by-Step Numbering

In this book, step-by-step instructions are broken down into small, bite-sized chunks for each phase of a project. Photos are given for some essential steps, but not all steps. Photos are almost always right next to the step text or mini section with which they correspond. If they’re not, they have an extra caption clarifying what they’re showing. So don’t be confused if you see more than one step 1 on a page!

Sewing the Darts and Seams

1. Baste any darts on the dress front, back, and lower areas. Press down or toward the middle.

2. Baste the main seams of the dress body: the side, shoulder, and princess seams. Side pockets are attached to the side seam now.

3. Turn the dress right side out and try it on. Apply any refinements, such as contouring the side seam to your body.

4. If the fit is correct, stitch the seam with a regular seam allowance and stitch length. Pull out the basting thread, as necessary. Edge finish and press.

Finishing the Neckline and Closures

1. For dresses with back openings, insert the zipper, if any; press.

2. Attach the neckline facing to the dress with right sides together; clip, turn, and press. For dresses with full linings, repeat the steps for dress assembly and then attach to the neckline as you would the facing.

3. On the inside of the garment, hand tack the facing in place. Add a closure such as a hook and eye at the top of the zipper.

Check the Fit

The bust points should point to the apex. Fabric will pool around the bust dart if too short and will pull if too long.

Shoulder seams should fall on the desired shoulder placement, angle to the shoulder point, and extend from the base of the neck outward.

Side seams should divide the front and back of the body with a visual vertical line. Contour to the desired amount of ease and fit.

Check the arm opening for correct placement on your body.

The neckline front and back should lay flat and hug the body naturally with no pulling or pooling of fabric.

Sewing the Armholes and Sleeves

1. On a sleeveless garment, attach the armhole facings to the garment; press.

2. On a garment with sleeves, stitch the sleeve seams; press. Then attach the sleeves to the armhole of the dress. For garments with a lining, baste it to the arm opening before attaching the sleeve. Once the sleeve is attached, hand sew the sleeve lining to the inside cap of the sleeve and then the hem.

Adding the Finishing Touches

1. Baste any finished patch pockets to the garment; try on and pin fit to determine the best position. Pockets should not crowd the center front or be so low that you cannot reach them. Reposition as needed.

2. Stitch the pocket to the garment; press.

3. If desired, add a decorative line of machine topstitching along the edges and seam lines.

4. Try on the dress and mark the sleeve and skirt lengths; hem and press.